diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:47:18 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 01:47:18 -0700 |
| commit | f1f5acaa9517b72577e329f01acd4b23b1500790 (patch) | |
| tree | c018aee0354378a6cbc44d739f37c1de0ac4e02c /22117-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '22117-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/22117-h.htm | 35062 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 327851 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-01.jpg | bin | 0 -> 160432 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-01_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26580 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-02.jpg | bin | 0 -> 102979 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-02_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16611 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-03.jpg | bin | 0 -> 153196 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-03_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26627 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-04.jpg | bin | 0 -> 165507 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-04_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30095 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-05.jpg | bin | 0 -> 137755 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-05_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22206 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-06.jpg | bin | 0 -> 128126 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-06_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20406 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-07.jpg | bin | 0 -> 124634 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-07_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19810 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-08.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155236 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-08_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27516 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-09.jpg | bin | 0 -> 215946 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-09_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 37426 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-10.jpg | bin | 0 -> 109742 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-10_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15708 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-11.jpg | bin | 0 -> 111476 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-11_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19402 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-12.jpg | bin | 0 -> 127727 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-12_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23855 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-13.jpg | bin | 0 -> 123486 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-13_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19664 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-14.jpg | bin | 0 -> 161831 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-14_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 28123 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-15.jpg | bin | 0 -> 207000 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-15_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 36862 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-16.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155693 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-16_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27349 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-17.jpg | bin | 0 -> 152255 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-17_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26843 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-18.jpg | bin | 0 -> 133681 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-18_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19113 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-19.jpg | bin | 0 -> 161811 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-19_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25244 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-20.jpg | bin | 0 -> 115668 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-20_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21534 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-21.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105149 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-21_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17303 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-22.jpg | bin | 0 -> 127636 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-22_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20014 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-23.jpg | bin | 0 -> 139036 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-23_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24633 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-24.jpg | bin | 0 -> 128768 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-24_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22321 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-25.jpg | bin | 0 -> 133675 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-25_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22136 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-26.jpg | bin | 0 -> 163475 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-26_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27775 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-27.jpg | bin | 0 -> 135207 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-27_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25986 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-28.jpg | bin | 0 -> 123491 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-28_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21338 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-29.jpg | bin | 0 -> 134948 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-29_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25477 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-30.jpg | bin | 0 -> 162728 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-30_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30185 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-31.jpg | bin | 0 -> 161233 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-31_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27783 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-32.jpg | bin | 0 -> 111428 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-32_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19536 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-33.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105983 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-33_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18222 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-34.jpg | bin | 0 -> 103026 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-34_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17442 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-35.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117647 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-35_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21319 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-36.jpg | bin | 0 -> 129256 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-36_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20886 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-37.jpg | bin | 0 -> 133113 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-37_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20785 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-38.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112650 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-38_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19106 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-39.jpg | bin | 0 -> 145150 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-39_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27215 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-40.jpg | bin | 0 -> 169383 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-40_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30131 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-41.jpg | bin | 0 -> 108162 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-41_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20647 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-42.jpg | bin | 0 -> 152150 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-42_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 28044 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-43.jpg | bin | 0 -> 115470 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-43_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17443 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-44.jpg | bin | 0 -> 139750 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-44_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25609 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-45.jpg | bin | 0 -> 101898 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-45_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 14326 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-46.jpg | bin | 0 -> 145925 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-46_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24305 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-47.jpg | bin | 0 -> 113380 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-47_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20641 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-48.jpg | bin | 0 -> 135909 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-48_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24604 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-49.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155820 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-49_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26843 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-50.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138273 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-50_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22552 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-51.jpg | bin | 0 -> 157451 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-51_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26408 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-52.jpg | bin | 0 -> 114245 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-52_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17433 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-53.jpg | bin | 0 -> 163978 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-53_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 29673 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-54.jpg | bin | 0 -> 151450 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-54_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26461 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-55.jpg | bin | 0 -> 162253 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-55_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30734 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-56.jpg | bin | 0 -> 124817 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-56_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23736 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-57.jpg | bin | 0 -> 154636 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-57_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26728 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-58.jpg | bin | 0 -> 107476 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-58_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18646 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-59.jpg | bin | 0 -> 110968 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-59_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19344 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-60.jpg | bin | 0 -> 118116 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-60_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18977 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-61.jpg | bin | 0 -> 127102 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-61_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21984 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-62.jpg | bin | 0 -> 77077 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-62_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18774 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-63.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117812 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-63_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17428 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-64.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100815 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-64_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16769 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-65.jpg | bin | 0 -> 116328 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-65_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19435 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-66.jpg | bin | 0 -> 340353 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill1-66_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100773 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-001.jpg | bin | 0 -> 59088 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-001_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 10418 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-002.jpg | bin | 0 -> 58913 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-002_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 9963 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-003.jpg | bin | 0 -> 122486 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-003_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19646 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-004.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105368 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-004_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16240 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-005.jpg | bin | 0 -> 86255 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-005_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 14087 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-006.jpg | bin | 0 -> 107640 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-006_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18482 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-007.jpg | bin | 0 -> 133520 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-007_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18498 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-008.jpg | bin | 0 -> 111220 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-008_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16736 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-009.jpg | bin | 0 -> 103382 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-009_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17779 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-010.jpg | bin | 0 -> 116890 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-010_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17695 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-011.jpg | bin | 0 -> 92540 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-011_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 13018 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-012.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117677 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-012_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20492 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-013.jpg | bin | 0 -> 121770 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-013_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-014.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155570 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-014_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27060 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-015.jpg | bin | 0 -> 115503 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-015_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22111 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-016.jpg | bin | 0 -> 110164 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-016_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20101 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-017.jpg | bin | 0 -> 166485 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-017_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30128 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-018.jpg | bin | 0 -> 144971 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-018_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 29943 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-019.jpg | bin | 0 -> 125265 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-019_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22814 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-020.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117468 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-020_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20703 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-021.jpg | bin | 0 -> 126970 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-021_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20787 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-022.jpg | bin | 0 -> 125112 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-022_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21907 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-023.jpg | bin | 0 -> 101810 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-023_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15040 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-024.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112421 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-024_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19909 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-025.jpg | bin | 0 -> 145966 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-025_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27632 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-026.jpg | bin | 0 -> 126748 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-026_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20578 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-027.jpg | bin | 0 -> 147456 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-027_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24313 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-028.jpg | bin | 0 -> 131162 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-028_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20076 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-029.jpg | bin | 0 -> 108170 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-029_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16294 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-030.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105628 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-030_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15892 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-031.jpg | bin | 0 -> 85254 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-031_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 12387 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-032.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112508 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-032_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17565 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-033.jpg | bin | 0 -> 98403 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-033_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 14317 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-034.jpg | bin | 0 -> 134763 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-034_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21365 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-035.jpg | bin | 0 -> 122077 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-035_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19061 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-036.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112066 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-036_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-037.jpg | bin | 0 -> 108054 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-037_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18011 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-038.jpg | bin | 0 -> 119870 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-038_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20999 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-039.jpg | bin | 0 -> 99403 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-039_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17388 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-040.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112621 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-040_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16276 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-041.jpg | bin | 0 -> 119947 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-041_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21665 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-042.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117827 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-042_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21370 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-043.jpg | bin | 0 -> 161286 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-043_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 28269 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-044.jpg | bin | 0 -> 68583 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-044_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18110 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-045.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25969 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-045_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 8498 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-046.jpg | bin | 0 -> 37167 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-046_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 12926 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-047.jpg | bin | 0 -> 114735 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-047_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19803 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-048.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138990 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-048_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21931 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-049.jpg | bin | 0 -> 9049 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-049_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 3108 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-050.jpg | bin | 0 -> 187851 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-050_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 29948 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-051.jpg | bin | 0 -> 77879 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-051_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 12534 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-052.jpg | bin | 0 -> 113527 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-052_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20708 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-053.jpg | bin | 0 -> 107406 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-053_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 16877 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-054.jpg | bin | 0 -> 113799 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-054_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18334 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-055.jpg | bin | 0 -> 12475 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-055_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 3621 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-056.jpg | bin | 0 -> 146460 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-056_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23002 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-057.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25963 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-057_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 8155 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-058.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26581 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-058_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 7971 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-059.jpg | bin | 0 -> 92521 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-059_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15365 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-060.jpg | bin | 0 -> 86981 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-060_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 13899 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-061.jpg | bin | 0 -> 174225 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-061_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 29554 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-062.jpg | bin | 0 -> 12401 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-062_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 3313 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-063.jpg | bin | 0 -> 141593 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-063_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23370 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-064.jpg | bin | 0 -> 120551 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-064_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18616 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-065.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25085 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-065_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 6627 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-066.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155211 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-066_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27613 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-067.jpg | bin | 0 -> 146339 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-067_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24055 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-068.jpg | bin | 0 -> 119975 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-068_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19358 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-069.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26565 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-069_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 4297 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-070.jpg | bin | 0 -> 116030 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-070_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18443 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-071.jpg | bin | 0 -> 143458 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-071_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24084 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-072.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26939 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-072_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 5002 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-073.jpg | bin | 0 -> 141564 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-073_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24468 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-074.jpg | bin | 0 -> 127312 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-074_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20022 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-075.jpg | bin | 0 -> 131458 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-075_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19700 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-076.jpg | bin | 0 -> 148615 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-076_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25236 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-077.jpg | bin | 0 -> 111418 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-077_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18585 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-078.jpg | bin | 0 -> 155875 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-078_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 27269 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-079.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41431 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-079_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 10877 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-080.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105727 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-080_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15038 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-081.jpg | bin | 0 -> 142204 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-081_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26163 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-082.jpg | bin | 0 -> 128418 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-082_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 23996 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-083.jpg | bin | 0 -> 123837 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-083_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18663 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-084.jpg | bin | 0 -> 150305 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-084_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25804 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-085.jpg | bin | 0 -> 116788 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-085_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19489 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-086.jpg | bin | 0 -> 122826 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-086_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20260 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-087.jpg | bin | 0 -> 114403 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-087_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 19375 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-088.jpg | bin | 0 -> 136925 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-088_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24614 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-089.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112282 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-089_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18974 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-090.jpg | bin | 0 -> 106112 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-090_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17397 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-091.jpg | bin | 0 -> 132104 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-091_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22763 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-092.jpg | bin | 0 -> 108452 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-092_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18555 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-093.jpg | bin | 0 -> 126770 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-093_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21135 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-094.jpg | bin | 0 -> 157617 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-094_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24626 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-095.jpg | bin | 0 -> 143481 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-095_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 25472 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-096.jpg | bin | 0 -> 137059 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-096_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21273 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-097.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138301 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-097_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 24712 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-098.jpg | bin | 0 -> 124137 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-098_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 21660 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-099.jpg | bin | 0 -> 133557 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-099_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20747 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-100.jpg | bin | 0 -> 31968 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-100_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 6154 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-101.jpg | bin | 0 -> 97572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-101_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15576 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-102.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105123 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-102_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18196 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-103.jpg | bin | 0 -> 125358 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-103_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22825 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-104.jpg | bin | 0 -> 164601 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-104_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 30665 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-105.jpg | bin | 0 -> 97247 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-105_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15433 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-106.jpg | bin | 0 -> 123828 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-106_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 22200 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-107.jpg | bin | 0 -> 289884 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-107_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26716 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-108.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138836 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-108_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 26307 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-109.jpg | bin | 0 -> 101118 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-109_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 17321 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-110.jpg | bin | 0 -> 130411 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-110_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18688 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-111.jpg | bin | 0 -> 121503 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-111_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 18081 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-112.jpg | bin | 0 -> 132958 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-112_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 20846 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-113.jpg | bin | 0 -> 105793 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-113_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 15450 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-114.jpg | bin | 0 -> 456977 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 22117-h/images/ill2-114_th.jpg | bin | 0 -> 103405 bytes |
362 files changed, 35062 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/22117-h/22117-h.htm b/22117-h/22117-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3742812 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/22117-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,35062 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Across Coveted Lands, by A. Henry Savage Landor</title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> +<style type="text/css"> + + body{margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + } + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center; clear: both;} + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + + hr {text-align: center; width: 50%;} + hr.full {width: 100%;} + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + div.centered {text-align: center;} + div.centered table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;} + img {border: none;} + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + .illc {margin: auto; text-align: center; font-variant: small-caps;} + + ins.err {border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: red; border-bottom-width:1px;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + +div.fig { display:block; + margin:0 auto; + text-align:center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + +<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Across Coveted Lands, by Arnold Henry Savage Landor</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Across Coveted Lands<br /> +Â Â or a Journey from Flushing (Holland) to Calcutta Overland</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Arnold Henry Savage Landor</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 22, 2007 [eBook #22117]<br /> +[Most recently updated: April 2, 2023]</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Michael Ciesielski and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team</div> +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS COVETED LANDS ***</div> + +<div class="fig" style="width:55%;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" style="width:100%;" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +<h1>ACROSS COVETED LANDS</h1> + +<h3>OR</h3> + +<h2>A JOURNEY FROM FLUSHING (HOLLAND) +TO CALCUTTA, OVERLAND</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR</h2> + +<h3><i>WITH 175 ILLUSTRATIONS, DIAGRAMS, PLANS AND MAPS</i></h3> +<h3><i>BY AUTHOR</i></h3> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES</h3> + +<h4>London</h4> +<h4>MACMILLAN AND CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span></h4> +<h4>1902</h4> + +<h5><i>All rights reserved</i></h5> + +<hr /> + +<h5><span class="smcap">Richard Clay and Sons, Limited,</span></h5> +<h5><span class="smcap">london and bungay</span></h5> + +<hr class="full" /> + + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-003.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-003_th.jpg" alt="Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings." title="Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Kerman and Zeris</span>, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings.</p> + +<p>"A whole day was spent in preparing for the +journey, and when November 4th came, shortly +before midnight my provisions were packed +upon my camels, with an extra load of fowls +and one of fruit, while on the hump of the last +camel of my caravan were perched, in a wooden +box made comfortable with straw and cotton-wool, +two pretty Persian kittens, aged respectively +three weeks and four weeks, which I had +purchased in Kerman, and which, as we shall +see, lived through a great many adventures and +sufferings, and actually reached London safe and +sound, proving themselves to be the most wonderful +and agreeable little travelling companions +imaginable. One was christened "Kerman," +the other "Zeris.""</p> +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2><a href="#V1"><span class="smcap">Volume I</span></a></h2> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="4" summary="Chapter Listing - Volume I"> +<tr><th align='center'><span class="smcap">Chapter</span></th><th align='center'><span class="smcap">Paragraph Description</span></th><th align='right'><span class="smcap">Page</span></th></tr> +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_I">I</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The start—The terrors of the Russian Custom-house—An +amusing incident at the Russian frontier—Politeness of +Russian officials—Warsaw: its sights; its lovely women—The +talented Pole—People who know how to travel by +train—A ludicrous scene.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_II">II</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Kiev—Its protecting Saint—Intellectuality and trade—Priests +and education—Wherein lies the strength of Russia—Industries—A +famous Monastery—The Catacombs of St. +Theodosius and St. Anthony—Pilgrims—Veneration of +Saints—The Dnieper river—Churches—A luminous cross—Kharkoff—Agriculture—Horse +fairs—Rostoff—Votka +drunkenness—Strong fortifications—Cheap and good travelling—Baku.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-12">12</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_III">III</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Baku—Unnecessary anxiety—A storm—Oil wells—Naphtha +spouts—How the wells are worked—The native city—The +Baku Bay—Fortifications—The Maiden's Tower—Depressing +vegetation—Baku dust—Prosperity and hospitality—The +Amir of Bokhara—The mail service to Persia on the +Caspian—The Mercury and Caucasus line—Lenkoran—Astara +(Russo-Persian boundary)—Antiquated steamers.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-21">21</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_IV">IV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Port of Enzeli—Troublesome landing—Flat-bottomed +boats—A special permit—Civility of officials—Across the +Murd-ap lagoon—Piri-Bazaar—A self-imposed golden +rule—Where our stock came from—The drive to Resht—The +bazaar—The native shops and foreign goods—Ghilan's +trade—The increase in trade—British and Russian +competitions—Sugar—Tobacco—Hotels—The British +Consulate—The Governor's palace—H.E. Salare Afkham—A +Swiss hotel—Banks.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-29">29</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_V">V</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Resht—Impostors—A visit to the Head Mullah—Quaint notions—Arrangements +for the drive to Teheran—The Russian +concession of the Teheran road—The stormy Caspian and +unsafe harbours—The great Menzil bridge—A detour in +the road—Capital employed in the construction of the road—Mistaken +English notions of Russia—Theory and practice—High +tolls—Exorbitant fares—A speculator's offer refused—Development +of the road.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-44">44</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_VI">VI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A journey by landau and four—Picturesque coachman—Tolls—Intense +moisture—Luxuriant vegetation—Deschambe +Bazaar—The silk industry of Ghilan—The cultivation and +export of rice—The Governor's energy—Agriculture and +Allah—The water question—The coachman's backshish—The +White River—Olive groves—Halting places on the +road—The effects of hallucination—Princes abundant.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-57">57</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_VII">VII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Menzil and the winds—The historical Alamut mountain—A +low plateau—Volcanic formation—Mol-Ali—A genuine case +of smallpox—Characteristic sitting posture—A caravan of +mules—Rugged country—The remains of a volcanic commotion—The +old track—Kasvin, the city of misfortunes—The +Governor's palace and palatial rest house—Earthquakes +and famine—<i>Kanats</i>, the marvellous aqueducts—How they +are made—Manufactures—Kasvin strategically.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_VIII">VIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Four thousand feet above sea-level—Castellated walls—An +obnoxious individual—Luggage weighing—The strange +figure of an African black—How he saved an Englishman's +life—Teheran hotels—Interesting guests—Life of bachelors +in Teheran—The Britisher in Persia—Home early—Social +sets—Etiquette—Missionaries—Foreign communities—The +servant question.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-78">78</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_IX">IX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Teheran—The seat of the Kajar family—The square of the +gun—Sanctuaries—The Top Meidan—Tramways—A +railway—Opposition of the Mullahs and population—Destruction +of a train—Mosques—Habitations—Extortion +and blackmail—Persian philosophy.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-87">87</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_X">X</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Legations—Germany a stumbling-block to Russia's and England's +supremacy—Sir Arthur Hardinge, British Minister +in Teheran—His talent, tact, and popularity—The British +Legation—Summer quarters—Legation guards—Removal +of furniture.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-95">95</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XI">XI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Visits to high Persian officials—Meftah-es-Sultaneh—Persian +education—A college for orphans—Uncomfortable etiquette—The +Foreign Office—H.E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister +of Foreign Affairs—Persian interest in the Chinese War of +1900—Reform necessary.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-102">102</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XII">XII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Persian army—The Persian soldier as he is and as he +might be—When and how he is drilled—Self-doctoring +under difficulties—Misappropriation of the army's salary—Cossack +regiments drilled by Russian officers—Death of the +Head Mullah—Tribute of the Jews—The position of Europeans—A +gas company—How it fulfilled its agreement.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-111">111</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XIII">XIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Cash and wealth—Capital as understood by Persians—Hidden +fortunes—Forms of extravagance—Unbusiness-like qualities—Foreign +examples—Shaken confidence of natives in +foreigners—Greed for money—Small merchants—Illicit +ways of increasing wealth—The Persian a dreamer—Unpunctuality—Time +no money and no object—Hindrance to +reform—Currency—Gold, silver, and copper—Absorption of +silver—Drainage of silver into Transcaspia—Banknotes—The +fluctuations of the Kran—How the poorer classes are +affected by it—Coins old and new—Nickel coins—The +<i>Shai</i> and its subdivisions.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-120">120</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XIV">XIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Banks of Persia—The Imperial Bank of Persia—The +most revered foreigner in Persia—Loans—The road concession—The +action of the Stock Exchange injurious to +British interests—Securities—Brains and not capital—Risks +of importing capital—An ideal banking situation—Hoarding—Defective +communication—The key to profitable +banking in Persia—How the exchange is affected—Coins—Free +trade—The Russian Bank and Mr. De Witte—Mr. +Grube an able Manager—Healthy competition—Support +of the Russian Government.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-135">135</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XV">XV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Illegitimate Bank-notes—Hampering the Bank's work—The +grand fiasco of the Tobacco Corporation—Magnificent +behaviour of the natives—The Mullahs and tobacco—The +nation gives up smoking—Suppression of the monopoly—Compensation—Want +of tact—Important European commercial +houses and their work—Russian and British trade—Trade +routes—The new Persian Customs—What they +are represented to be and what they are—Duties—The +employment of foreigners in Persia—The Maclean +incident.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-147">147</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XVI">XVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Russia on the brain—The apprehended invasion of India—Absolute +nonsense—Russia's tariff—In the House of +Commons—A friendly understanding advisable—German +competition—The peace of the world—Russia's firm policy +of bold advance—An outlet in the Persian Gulf—The policy +of drift—Sound knowledge of foreign countries needed—Mutual +advantages of a Russian and British agreement—Civilisation—Persia's +integrity.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-159">159</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XVII">XVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Education—Educated but not instructed—The Mullahs—The +Madrassahs—The Royal College in Teheran—Secular +Schools—The brain of Persian students—Hints on commercial +education for Englishmen—Languages a necessity—Observation—Foreigners +and Englishmen—The Englishman +as a linguist—Special commercial training in Germany—The +British manufacturer—Ways and ways—Our +Colonies swamped with foreign-made goods—Russia fast +and firmly advancing.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-169">169</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Persia's industrial, mineral and agricultural resources—Climate +of various districts—Ghilan's trade—Teheran and the +surrounding country—Khorassan and Sistan—The Caspian +provinces—Mazanderan, Astrabad and Azerbaijan—Russian +activity and concessions in Azerbaijan—Hamadan—The +Malayer and Borujird districts—The nomads of Kurdistan—Naphtha—The +tribes of Pusht-i-kuh—The pastoral +people of Luristan—Arabistan—Farsistan—Laristan—Shiraz +wines—Persian Beluchistan.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-183">183</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XIX">XIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A Persian wedding—Polygamy—Seclusion of women—Match-makers—Subterfuges—The +<i>Nomzad</i>, or official betrothal +day—The wedding ceremony in the harem—For luck—The +wedding procession—Festival—Sacrifices of sheep +and camels—The last obstacle, the <i>ruhmah</i>—The bride's +endowment—The bridegroom's settlement—Divorces—A +famous well for unfaithful women—Women's influence—Division +of property.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-192">192</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XX">XX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Persian women—Their anatomy—Their eyes—<i>Surmah</i>—Age +of puberty—The descendants of Mohammed—Infanticide—Circumcision—Deformities +and abnormalities—The +ear—The teeth and dentistry—The nose—A Persian +woman's indoor dress—The <i>yel</i>—The <i>tadji</i> and other +jewels—Out-of-door dress—The <i>Chakchur</i>—The <i>ruh-band</i>—The +<i>Chudder</i>.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-204">204</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXI">XXI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Shah's birthday—Illuminations—The Shah in his automobile—Ministers +in audience—Etiquette at the Shah's +Court—The Shah—A graceful speaker—The Shah's +directness of speech—The Kajars and the Mullahs—The +<i>défilé</i> of troops—A blaze of diamonds.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-216">216</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXII">XXII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Shah's Palace—The finest court—Alabaster throne hall—A +building in European style—The Museum—A chair of +solid gold and silver—The <i>Atch</i>—Paintings—The banqueting +room—The audience room—Beautiful carpets—An +elaborate clock—Portraits of sovereigns and their places—Pianos +and good music—The Jewelled-Globe room—Queen +Victoria's photograph—Moving pictures—Conservatory—Roman +mosaics—Toys—Adam and Eve—Royal and imperial +oil paintings—A decided slight—The picture gallery—Valuable +collection of arms—Strange paintings—Coins—Pearls—Printing +press—Shah's country places.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-225">225</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXIII">XXIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The selection of a servant—A Persian <i>diligence</i>—Shah-Abdul-Azim +mosque—Rock carving—The round tower—Beggars—The +<i>Kerjawa</i>—Hasanabad—Run-away horses—Misplaced +affection—Characteristics of the country—Azizawad—Salt +lake of Daria-i-Nimak—Aliabad—Sunsets.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-241">241</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXIV">XXIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Severe wind—Kum, the holy city—Thousands of graves—Conservative +Mullahs—Ruin and decay—Leather tanning—The +gilt dome—Another extortion—Ingenious bellows—Damovend—The +scenery—Passangun—Evening prayers—A +contrivance for setting charcoal alight—Putrid water—Post +horses—Sin Sin—Mirage—Nassirabad—Villages near +Kashan.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-252">252</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXV">XXV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Kashan—Silk manufactories—Indo-European Telegraph—The +Zein-ed-din tower—The Meh-rab shrine—The +Madrassah Shah—The Panja Shah—The hand of Nazareth +Abbas—The Fin Palace—Hot springs—The tragic end of +an honest Prime Minister—Ice store-houses—Cultivation—In +the bazaar—Brass work—Silk—The Mullahs and +places of worship—Wretched post-horses—The Gyabrabad +caravanserai—An imposing dam—Fruit-tree groves—Picturesque +Kohrut village.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-263">263</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXVI">XXVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Crossing the Pass—Held up by robbers—Amusing courtesy—Brigands +to protect from brigands—Parting friends—Soh—Biddeshk—Copper +and iron—Robber tribes—An Englishman +robbed—A feature of Persian mountains—A military +escort—How compensation is paid by the Persian Government—Murchikhar—Robbers +and the guards—Ghiez—Distances +from Teheran to Isfahan.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-273">273</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXVII">XXVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Missionary work in Persia—Educational and medical work—No +Mahommedan converts—Bibles—Julfa—Armenian +settlement—Conservative customs—Armenian women—Their +education—The Armenian man—Europeans—A +bird's-eye view of Isfahan—Armenian graveyard—A long +bridge—The Rev. James Loraine Garland—Mission among +the Jews.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-281">281</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXVIII">XXVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Mission among Jews—Schools for boys and girls—A +practical institution—The Jews of Persia—Persecution by +Persians—Characteristics of Jews—Girls—Occupations—Taxation—The +social level of Jews.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-288">288</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXIX">XXIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The square of Isfahan—The Palace gate—The entrance to +the bazaar—Beggars—Formalities and etiquette—The +bazaar—Competition—How Persians buy—Long credit—Arcades—Hats—Cloth +shops—Sweet shops—Butchers—Leather +goods—Saddle-bags—The bell shop—Trunks.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-296">296</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXX">XXX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Brass Bazaar—Mirror shop—Curdled milk—A tea shop—Fruit +and vegetable bazaar—The walnut seller—The +Auctioneer—Pipe shops—Barber—Headdress—Bread shops—Caravanserais—The +day of rest.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-305">305</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXI">XXXI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A carpet factory—Children at work—The process of carpet-making—Foreign +influence in the design—Aniline dyes—"Ancient +carpets" manufactured to-day—Types of carpets—Kerman +carpets—Isfahan silk carpets—Kurdistan rugs—Birjand +and Sultanabad carpets—Carpets made by wandering +tribes—Jewellers—Sword-makers and gunsmiths—Humming +birds.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-313">313</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXII">XXXII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Grand Avenue of Isfahan—The Madrassah—Silver gates—The +dome—The Palace—The hall of forty columns—Ornamentations—The +picture hall—Interesting paintings—Their +artistic merit—Nasr-ed-din Shah's portrait—The +ceiling—The quivering minarets.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-321">321</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXIII">XXXIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Isfahan the commercial heart of Persia—Dangers of maps in +argument—Bandar Abbas—The possibility of a Russian +railway to Bandar Abbas—Bandar Abbas as a harbour—The +caravan road to Bandar Abbas—Rates of transport—Trade—British +and Russian influence—Shipping—A +Russian line of steamers—Customs under Belgian officials—Lingah—Its +exports and imports.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-330">330</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXIV">XXXIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Mahommerah—Where Russia's aims are directed—Advantages +of Mahommerah—The navigation of the Karun River—Traffic—Rates +on the Ahwaz-Isfahan track—The +Government's attitude—Wheat—Russian influence—Backhtiari +Chiefs—Up and down river trade—Gum—Cotton +goods—Sugar—Caravan route—Steamers—Disadvantages +of a policy of drift—Russian enterprise.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-339">339</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXV">XXXV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The British Consul-General in Isfahan—Russia's influence in +Southern Persia—H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan—Departure for +Yezd—Pigeon towers—A Persian telegraph line—Ghiavaz—Characteristics +of the scenery—A village in ruins—Types—Saigsi—Mud +dunes—Mirage—A reservoir—Kanats—Scarcity +of fodder.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-348">348</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXVI">XXXVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Khupah—Sunken well—Caravanserai—Night marching—Kudeshk—The +Fishark and Sara ranges—Lhas—The pass—Whirlwinds—Robbers—Fezahbad—The +dangers of a +telegraph wire—An accident—Six villages—Deposits of sand +and gravel—Bambis—The people—Mosquitoes—A Persian +house—Weaving loom—Type of natives—Clothing—Sayids.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-357">357</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXVII">XXXVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Bambis—The Kashsan-Yezd high road—The Kevir plain—Minerals—Chanoh—Sand +deposits—Sherawat—Kanats—Agdah—Stone +cairns—Kiafteh—An isolated mount—A +long sand bar—A forsaken village—Picturesque Biddeh—Handsome +caravanserai at Meiboh—Rare baths—Shamsi—Sand-hills—Hodjatabad—Fuel—A +"tower of silence"—A +split camel—Thousands of borings for water—A four-towered +well.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-369">369</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXVIII">XXXVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Yezd—Water supply—Climate—Cultivation—Products—Exports +and imports—Population—Trade—Officials—Education—Persian +children—Public schools—The Mushir +school—The Parsee school—C.M.S. mission school—The +medical mission—The hospital—Christianizing difficult—European +ladies in Persia—Tolerance of race religions.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-381">381</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XXXIX">XXXIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Guebres of Yezd—Askizar—The Sassanian dynasty—Yezdeyard—The +name "Parsees"—The Arab invasion of +Persia—A romantic tale—Zoroaster—Parsees of India—Why +the Parsees remained in Yezd and Kerman—Their +number—Oppression—The teaching of the Zoroastrian +religion and of the Mahommedan—A refreshing quality—Family +ties—Injustice—Guebre places of worship—The +sacred fire—Religious ceremonies—Three excellent points +in the Zoroastrian religion—The Parsees not "fire +worshippers"—Purification of fire—No ancient sacred +books—Attire—No civil rights—The "jazia" tax—Occupations—The +Bombay Parsees Amelioration Society +and its work—The pioneers of trade—A national assembly—Ardeshir +Meheban Irani—Establishment of the Association—Naturalized +British subjects—Consulates wanted—The +Bombay Parsees—Successful traders—Parsee generosity—Mr. +Jamsetsji Tata.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-394">394</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XL">XL</a></td> + +<td align='left'><i>Badjirs</i>—Below the sand level—Chappar service between Yezd +and Kerman—The elasticity of a farsakh—Sar-i-Yezd—An +escort—Where three provinces meet—Etiquette—Robbers' +impunity—A capital story—Zen-u-din—The Serde Kuh +range—Desert—Sand accumulations—Kermanshah—The +Darestan and Godare Hashimshan Mountains—Chappar +Khana inscriptions and ornamentations by travellers—Shemsh.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-408">408</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XLI">XLI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Desolate scenery—Anar—A word for Persian servants—Sadek's +English—Bayas village—Sand deposits—Robber villagers—Kushkuhyeh +Chappar khana—The post contractor, his +rifle—Cotton cultivation—Fast growing Rafsenju—Trade +tracks—Hindu merchants—Sadek and the Chappar boy—Kafter-han—Photography +and women—A flat, salty stretch +of clay and sand—The Kuh Djupahr peaks—Robat +women—Baghih—Attractive girls—<i>Mirage</i>—Arrival in +Kerman.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-419">419</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XLII">XLII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Kerman—The <i>Ark</i> or citadel—Civility of the natives—Europeans—The +British Consulate—Major Phillott—H. E. +Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman—Soldiers—Teaching +music to recruits—Preparation for the campaign +against the Beluch—Cloth manufacture.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-431">431</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XLIII">XLIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Madrassah—"Peace on Abraham"—The <i>Hammam</i>—Trade +caravanserais—The Hindoo caravanserai—Parsees—Ancient +fortifications—The Kala-i-Dukhtar, or virgin fort—Speculation—The +Kala-Ardeshir—A deep well—Why +it was made.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-439">439</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V1-CHAPTER_XLIV">XLIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The deserted city of Farmidan—More speculation—The +Afghan invasion—Kerman surrenders to Agha Muhammed +Khan—A cruel oppressor—Luft-Ali-Khan to the rescue—The +Zoroastrians—Mahala Giabr—Second Afghan invasion—Luft-Ali-Khan's +escape—Seventy thousand human +eyes—Women in slavery—Passes—An outpost—Fire +temples—Gigantic inscriptions—A stiff rock climb—A +pilgrimage for sterile women—A Russian picnic—A Persian +dinner—Fatabad—The trials of abundance—A Persian +menu—Rustamabad—Lovely fruit garden.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_1-447">447</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p> </p> +<hr /> +<p> </p> +<h3><span class="smcap">Illustrations—Volume I</span></h3> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>To face page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>His Majesty the Shah of Persia</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-Frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Baku Oil Wells</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Wrestling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Making a <i>Kanat</i></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-74">74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-100">100</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Effetaieh'">Eftetahié</ins> College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-106">106</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Soldiers—The Band</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Recruits learning Music</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-126">126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-140">140</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The First Position in Persian Wrestling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-170">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Woman and Child</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Picturesque Beggar Girl</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Shah in his Automobile</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-230">230</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Shah and his Suite</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-240">240</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Track along the Kohrut Dam</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-272">272</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chapparing—the Author's post horses</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Escort firing at Brigands</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jewish Girls, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>An Isfahan Jew</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Square, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-298">298</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Palace Gate, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-304">304</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boys Weaving a Carpet</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cotton Cleaners</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Hall of Forty Columns," Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-330">330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-350">350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-352">352</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-366">366</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Halting at a Caravanserai</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Street in Yezd, showing High <i>Badjirs</i> or Ventilating Shafts</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-394">394</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-400">400</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-414">414</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-414">414</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-432">432</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-442">442</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Hot Room in a Persian Bath</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-444">444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-444">444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-446">446</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruined Houses of Farmitan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plan of House at Farmitan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-454">454</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A View of the Kerman Plain from the "Ya Ali" Inscription</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-458">458</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-458">458</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Map at the End of Volume.</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-461">461</a></td></tr> +</table></div> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<h2><a href="#V2"><span class="smcap">Volume II</span></a></h2> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="4" summary="Chapter Listing - Volume II"> +<tr><th align='center'><span class="smcap">Chapter</span></th><th align='center'><span class="smcap">Paragraph Description</span></th><th align='right'><span class="smcap">Page</span></th></tr> +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_I">I</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Difficulties of crossing the Great Salt Desert—The trials of +arranging a caravan—The ways of camel-men—A quaint +man of the Desert—A legal agreement—Preparations for +the departure—"Kerman" and "Zeris," my two Persian +kittens and travelling companions—Persian cats—The +start—The charms of camel riding—Marching among +mountains.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_II">II</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Fifty miles from Kerman—Camels not made for climbing hills—The +Godar Khorassunih Pass—Volcanic formation—Sar-es-iap—A +variegated mountain—A castle—Rock +dwellings—Personal safety—Quaint natives—Women and +their ways—Footgear.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-11">11</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_III">III</a></td> + +<td align='left'>An abandoned caravanserai—Fantastic hill tops—No water—A +most impressive mountain—Sediments of salt—A dry river +bed—Curious imprints in the rock—A row—Intense heat—Accident +to our supply of eggs—The end of a meeting—Misleading +maps—Haoz Panch—The camel-man's bread—Lawah.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-19">19</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_IV">IV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Lawah or Rawar—A way to Yezd—The bazaar—Trade—Ruined +forts—Opium smoking and its effects—Beggar's +ingenious device—In a local gentleman's home—The +Tokrajie—Buying fresh provisions—Water skins—An +unhealthy climate—A fight—When fever is contracted—Wolves +in camp—Fever stricken—A third cat purchased.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-27">27</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_V">V</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Salt sediments as white as snow—Brilliant stars—Plaintive +songs of the camel men—An improvisatore—Unpleasant +odour of camels—A large salt deposit—No water and no +fuel—A device to protect oneself against great heat—Amazing +intelligence of cats—Nature's ways and men's +ways—A hot climb—A brilliantly coloured range—Sea +shells and huge fossils.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-36">36</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_VI">VI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A long detour—Mount Darband—A water-cut gorge—Abandoned +watch towers—Passes into the desert—A wall-like +mountain range—The tower and fortified caravanserai +at camp Darband—Brackish water—Terrific heat—Compensating +laws of nature better than absurd patents—Weird +rocks—Cairns—Chel-payeh salt well—Loss of half our +supply of fresh water—Camels and men overcome by the +heat.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-44">44</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_VII">VII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Fortress-like cliffs—A long troublesome march—Sixteen hours +on the saddle—All our fresh-water supply gone!—Fever—Electricity +of the desert—Troublesome camel men—A +small oasis—An ancient battered tower—A giant—Naiband +mountain and village—Rock habitations—A landmark in +the desert.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-53">53</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_VIII">VIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A visit to the eight-towered village—A hostile demonstration—Quaint +houses—Stoned—Brigand villagers—A device—Peculiar +characteristics of natives—Picturesque features—Constant +intermarriage and its effects—Nature's freaks—Children—Elongating +influence of the desert—Violent +women—Beasts of burden—Photography under difficulty—Admirable +teeth of the natives—Men's weak chests—Clothing—A +farewell demonstration—Fired at.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-60">60</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_IX">IX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Misfortunes—Suffocating heat—An expected attack—Electricity—Strayed +camels—A barber and his ways—A track +to Meshed—Pilgrim husband and wife across the desert—Another +long march—A salt stream—Brackish well.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-70">70</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_X">X</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Intense cold—Dulled sense of taste—Characteristics of the +country—Beautiful stones—Clouds of the desert—A salt +stream—Icicles on the moustache and eyelashes—Longing +for sunrise—Prayers of the camel men—Fedeshk—Ali +Murat meets his wife—Opium dens and opium smokers—Effects +of smoking opium in excess—Fever-stricken people—Dwellings—An +official visitor—Science reduced to +practice—Sadek's idea of sunset and sunrise—"Keshk" +cheese—Arrival in Birjand.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-77">77</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XI">XI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>My caravan disbanded—Birjand—Ruined fortress—The city—Number +of houses—Population—The citadel—Artillery—Trade +routes—Birjand as a strategical position—A +trading centre—No fresh water—The Amir—Indian +pilgrims—Birjand carpets—Industries—A pioneer British +trader—Imports and exports—How business is transacted—Russian +and British goods—Long credit—A picturesque +caravanserai—Afghan soldiers—Beluch camel men.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-90">90</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XII">XII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A loud explosion—Persian military officers—Dr. Abbas Ali +Khan, British Agent in Birjand—His excellent work—Gratefulness +of the natives—A quaint letter—The Russian +Agent—A Russian temporary score—More British Consulates +needed—Visits returned—Altitude and temperature +of Birjand—Cossacks and their houses—A bright scene in +a graveyard—Departure of Indian pilgrims for Meshed—British +Consular postal service—Russian post—Making up +a second caravan.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-103">103</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XIII">XIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Departure from Birjand—A cloud like a skeleton hand—A +downpour—The village of Muht—A ruined fortress—A +beautiful sunset—A pass—Besieged by native callers—Two +towers at Golandeh—Strayed—Curious pits—Sahlabad—The +impression of a foreign bed—Fujiama's +twin.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-112">112</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XIV">XIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Suspicious characters—A trap—Held up—No water—The +haunt of robbers—Fierce daily winds—Volcanic formation—A +crater—Wall-like barriers—A salt stream—A caravan +from Quetta.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-122">122</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XV">XV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Sadek's wastefulness—Meeting two enterprising English traders—Another +circular crater—Wind and electricity in the air—Their +effects—A fortress—Soldiers and brigandage—Zemahlabad—Windmills—Bandan—Ancient +tombs—Picturesque +women—Lost our way—A welcome messenger—Nasirabad—"Ruski" +or "Inglis"—Several miles of +villages and houses—English maps and foreign names—Greeted +by Major Benn.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-131">131</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XVI">XVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>English fancy geographical names—Sher-i-Nasrya—The main +street—The centre of the city—Reverence of the natives +for Major Benn—A splendid type of British official—Indian +and Russian goods—The Shikin Maghut cloth—Steadily +increasing trade of the Nushki route—Khorassan +horses for remounts—Husseinabad—Russian Vice-Consulate—Mr. +Miller—Characteristic windmills—"The wind of +120 days"—Benn Bazaar.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XVII">XVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The British Bazaar—The pioneer traders of Sistan—Sistan +a half-way house and not the terminus of the route—Comfortable +route—Protection and redress—Indian tea in +Persia—Persian market overstocked—Enterprise of Indian +tea traders—Which are the markets worth cultivating—Articles +mostly wanted in Sistan and Meshed—Exports—A +problem to be faced—Ways of communication needed to +cities of central Persia.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-151">151</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Sistan's state of transition—British Consul's tact—Advancing +Russian influence—Safety—A fight between Sistanis and +Afghans—The Sar-tip—Major Benn's pluck and personal +influence—Five Afghans seriously wounded—The city +gates closed—The Customs caravanserai—A British +caravanserai needed—Misstatements—Customs officials—Fair +and just treatment to all—Versatile Major Benn—A +much needed assistant—More Consulates wanted—Excellent +British officials—Telegraph line necessary—A much-talked-of +railway—The salutary effect of a garrison at Robat +frontier post.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-161">161</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XIX">XIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The history of the Sistan Vice-Consulate—Major Chevenix +Trench—Laying the foundation of the Consulate—Hoisting +the British flag—Major Benn—A terrible journey—A +plucky Englishwoman—The mud Consulate—Its evolution—The +new buildings—Ka-khanas—Gardening under +difficulties—How horses are kept—The enclosing wall—The +legend of Trenchabad city—The Consulate Mosque—Dr. +Golam Jelami—The hospital—Successful operations—Prevalent +complaints of Sistan—The Sistan Sore.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-171">171</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XX">XX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Laid up with fever—Christmas Day—A visit to the Amir—Hashmat-ul-Mulk—An +ancient city over eighty miles long—Extreme +civility of Persian officials—An unusual +compliment—Prisoners—Personal revenge—"An eye for +an eye, a tooth for a tooth"—Punishments and crime—Fines—Bastinado—Disfigurement—Imprisonment—Blowing +criminals from a gun—Strangling and decapitation.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-183">183</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXI">XXI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The London of the East—A city eighty-six miles long—The +village of Bunjar—An ancient tower—Iskil—The <i>Kalantar</i> +of Sistan—Collection of ancient jewellery from the buried +city—Interesting objects—A romantic life and tragic death—A +treacherous Afghan—Strained relations between the +Sistan and Afghan Governors—Sand-barchans—Flat roofs +and gable roofs—The pillar of Mil-i-Zaidan—A conical +ice-house—The imposing fort of Zaidan—A neighbouring +modern village.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXII">XXII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>An ancient city as big as London—The citadel—Towers—Small +rooms—The walls—Immensity of the city—Sand drifts—Why +some parts are buried and some are not—An extensive +wall—Great length of the city—Evidence that the habitations +were continuous—The so-called Rud-i-Nasru—Its position—A +double outer wall—A protected road—Interesting +structures—An immense graveyard—Tombs—Sand drifts +explained—A former gate of the city—The <i>Chil-pir</i> or +tomb of forty saints—Interesting objects found—Beautiful +inscriptions on marble and slate—Marble columns—Graceful +lamps—Exciting digging—A tablet—Heptagonal tower—A +ghastly figure.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-205">205</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXIII">XXIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A short historical sketch of Zaidan city—How it was pillaged +and destroyed—Fortresses and citadels—Taimur Lang—Shah +Rukh—Revolutions—The Safavi dynasty—Peshawaran, +Pulki, Deshtak—Sir F. Goldsmid's and Bellew's +impressions—The extent of the Peshawaran ruins—Arabic +inscriptions—A curious ornamentation—Mosques and +<i>mihrab</i>—Tomb of Saiyid Ikbal—The Farah Rud and +Harut Rud—The "Band" of the Halmund—Canals and +channels old and new of the Halmund delta—The Rud-i-Nasru +and the Rud-i-Perian—Strange temporary graves—Ancient +prosperity of Eastern Persia.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-219">219</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXIV">XXIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Departure from Sistan—Dadi—Not one's idea of a pasture—The +Kuh-i-Kwajah—Its altitude—The "City of roars of +laughter"—Interesting ascent to the summit—A water +reservoir—Family graves—Dead-houses—A grave with +thirty-eight compartments—The Gandun Piran Ziarat—Scrolls +and inscriptions—Priest's house—Modern graves—Skulls +and their characteristics—A smaller Ziarat—The +Kuk fort—A bird's-eye view of Kala-i-Kakaha city—Strange +legends about the city—Why Kala-i-Kakaha is +famous.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-233">233</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXV">XXV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Villages between Sher-i-Nasrya and Kuh-i-Kwajah—The last +of the Kayani—Husena Baba—Thousands of sheep—The +Patang Kuh—Protecting black walls—A marsh—Sand +dunes—Warmal—Quaint terraces—How roofs are built—A +spacious residence built for nine shillings—Facial +characteristics of natives—Bread making—Semi-spherical +sand mounts—Natural protections against the northerly +winds.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-251">251</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXVI">XXVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Sand accumulations—A round tower—Mahommed Raza Chah—A +burial ground—Rustam's city—An ancient canal—Rustam's +house—The Persian hero's favourite room—A +store room—Reception hall—The city wall—Where +Rustam's son was impaled—The stable of Rustam's gigantic +horse—More dry canals—An immense graveyard—Sand +and its ways—A probable buried city—A land-mark—Sadek's +ways—A glorious sunset—Girdi—Beluch greeting.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-261">261</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXVII">XXVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Girdi-chah, a desolate spot—Its renowned water—Post-houses +and Persian Customs soldiers—Nawar-chah and its well—The +salt river Shela—Its course—Beautiful colours in salt +crystals—Tamarisks—The Kuh-i-Malek-Siah—The loftiest +mountain—Afghans—Hormak, a picturesquely situated +post station—A natural pyramid of rock—Natural fortresses—The +Malek-Siah Ziarat—Where three coveted countries +meet—The hermit—The evolution of a sand hill—Parallel +sand dunes—In Beluchistan—Robat, the most north-easterly +British post.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-277">277</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXVIII">XXVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Lahr Kuh—Robat <i>thana</i> and bungalow—Saïd Khan—Persian +and Beluch music, songs and dancing—Beluch +musical instruments—Beluch melodies, love and war songs—Comic +songs—Beluch voices—Persian melodies—Solo +songs—Ululations—Persian instruments—Castanets—Persian +and Beluch dancing—The <i>chap</i>.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-293">293</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXIX">XXIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>An excellent track—A quaint rock—A salt rivulet—Laskerisha—Mahommed +Raza-chah—Beluch encampment—The +horrors of photography—Maternal love—A track to +Mirjawa—Kirtaka—Direct track to Sher-i-Nasrya—Track +to Cabul—Sand-hills—A wide river bed—A high yellow +pillar—Undulating track—Ten sharp-pointed peaks.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-307">307</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXX">XXX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>An excursion into Afghanistan—The salt deposits of God-i-Zirreh—Sand +hills—Curious formation of hill range—Barchans +and how they are formed—Alexander's march +through the country—The water of Godar-i-Chah—Afghans +and their looks.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-316">316</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXI">XXXI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Saindak—Beluch prisoners—Thana and Bungalow—Beluch +bread—The Saindak mountain and its mineral resources—The +Daftan volcano—<i>Surmah</i> and lead—Mukak and its +strong man—A sick camel—Gypsum—<i>Regheth</i>—Where +the track will deviate in future—Difficulty in obtaining +drinkable water—Wells made attractive—Sahib chah—A +well ventilated rest-house.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXII">XXXII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Sick men and camels—What came of photographing Sahib +Chah—Losing the track—Divided opinions—Allah <i>versus</i> +the compass—Sadek's way of locating positions—Picked up +hungry and thirsty by sensible Mahommed who had come +in search—Curious scenery—Trouble at Mirjawa—Mythical +Perso-Beluch frontier—Gypsum and limestone—Mushki +Chah.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-336">336</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXIII">XXXIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Mushki-Chah—A Ziarat—Beluch dwellings—The Beluch and +the camera—Characteristics of Beluch—Three wells of +good water at Kundi—The Kuh-i-Sultan and the "Spear +of the Sultan"—A big Ziarat at Kundi—Nineteen hours +on the saddle—Tretoh—Cold wind—Parallel rows of sand +barchans—Startling effect of mirage—Chah Sandan—Brahui +salutation—Belind Khan and his good points—A +respected officer—Praying at the Ziarat.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-346">346</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXIV">XXXIV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The picturesque Gat mountain—Strange-looking mountains—Mirui—White +covered country—Sotag—Desolate shed at +Chakal—The <i>Karenghi rirri</i> deadly plant—The Mesjid or +Masit—Their characteristics—The religion of Beluch—Sects—Superstitions—The +symbol of evil—A knife "possessed"—A +Beluch's idea of a filter.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-358">358</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXV">XXXV</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Captain Webb-Ware, C.I.E.—The Nushki route—An excellent +track—Bungalows built and in course of construction—The +water—Postal service—Important Government concession—The +Nushki route and the railways—Hints to traders—Quaint +official formalities—Pilgrims and their ways—An +amusing incident.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-367">367</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXVI">XXXVI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The Beluch-Afghan boundary—Substantial advantages obtained—The +Afghans driven from Chagai—Who owns Beluchistan?—How +Beluchistan is subdivided—Treaties and +engagements with the Kahn of Kelat—The <i>Brahui</i> and +<i>Nhauri</i>—When British political connection with Kelat +began—Intrigue—The treaty of 1839—The treaty stolen—Kelat +stormed by the British—A revolution—Protection +of caravans—Treaty of 1841—At the death of Nasir Khan—Boundary +matters settled in 1887—A Brahui rebellion—British +mediation—A state of chaos—The Marris and +Bugtis—Reconciliation of the Sardars with the Khan of +Kelat—Treaty of 1876—British agents at the Khan's court—Railways +and telegraphs—Subsidies—British troops +stationed in the country—Major Sandeman, agent to the +Governor-General—The agreement of 1883—Transfer of +dues and tolls—The chiefship of Kharan—The chief of +Las Bela—Troublesome Marris—British Beluchistan—The +occupants of Zhob.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-376">376</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXVII">XXXVII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The evolution of Nushki—The Zagar Mengal tribe—Tribal +feuds—Competition in trade—Venturesome caravans—Pasand +Khan—Dalbandin and its geographical situation—Game +big and small—Dates—A famous Ziarat—A Beluch +burial ground—Preparing corpses for interment—How +graves are cut into the ground—Beluch marriages—Beluch +thoughtfulness towards newly married couples—A mark of +respect.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-395">395</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXVIII">XXXVIII</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A long march—Karodak—Sandstorm—A salt plain—Yadgar—Padag—Beluch +huts—Fierce wind—Plants—Kuchaki chah—Another +double march—Mall—Two tracks—Peculiar +cracks—A gigantic geological fault—An old Beluch fort—Nushki.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-407">407</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XXXIX">XXXIX</a></td> + +<td align='left'>A new city—The Bungalow—Numerous Beluch villages—Nomads—Beluch +architecture—Weaving looms—Implements—Beluch +diet—Cave dwellers of Nushki—Beluch +dress—Children—The salaam of the chiefs—An impressive +sight—The Kwajah Mahommed Ziarat—Shah Hussein's +Ziarat and its legend—A convenient geographical site.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-414">414</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XL">XL</a></td> + +<td align='left'>The fast growing city of Nushki—The Tashil—the Tashildar—Beluch +law—Hospital—Pneumonia and consumption—Lawn +tennis—The Nushki Bazaar—Satisfactory trade +returns—The projected Quetta-Nushki Railway—A great +future for Nushki—An extension to Sistan necessary—Also +a telegraph—Preferable routes for a railway to Sistan—From +Nushki to Kishingi—A curious Mesjid—Mudonek +Ateng Mountain—A fast of twenty-five days—The Chiltan +and Takatu Mts.—The Gurghena tribe—Huts and tents—Beluch +hospitality—Villages.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-425">425</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><a href="#V2-CHAPTER_XLI">XLI</a></td> + +<td align='left'>Morad Khan Kella—The horrors of a camera—Seven high +dunes—Three tracks—Where the railway will be laid—A +fine old tamarisk turned into a Ziarat—Pagoda-like rest-houses—Science +<i>versus</i> comfort—Kanak—Afghan women—The +Kandahar road—How we butcher foreign names—Quetta +and Chaman—The horse fair and Durbar at Sibi—Arrival +in Calcutta—The first mishap—The death of +faithful Lawah—The end.</td> + +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-436">436</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'> </td> +<td align='left'><a href="#V2-APPENDIX">APPENDIX</a></td> +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-444">444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right' valign='top'> </td> +<td align='left'><a href="#V2-INDEX">INDEX</a></td> +<td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-447">447</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p> </p> +<hr /> +<p> </p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Illustrations—Volume II</span></h3> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations - Volume II"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>To face page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mahommed Hussein and Sadek (Author's Servants)</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-Frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-6">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan and Others Halting in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan in the Salt Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ali Murat Making Bread</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wolves in Camp</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Camel Men in their White Felt Coats</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camel Men saying their Prayers at Sunset</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Camels being Fed in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Trail we left behind in the Salt Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-54">54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan Descending into River Bed near Darband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Habitations, Naiband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Village of Naiband, and Rock Dwellings in the Cliff</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Young Men of an Oasis in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Man and Child of the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Naiband Barber Stropping a Razor on his Leg</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Woman of Naiband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fever Stricken Man at Fedeshk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Citadel, Birjand</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The City of Birjand, showing main street and river bed combined</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Women Visiting Graves of Relatives, Birjand. (Ruined Fort can be observed on Hill.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-110">110</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Desert. (Tamarisks in the Foreground.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-118">118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Women at Bandan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dr. Golam Jelami and his Patients</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Main Street, Sher-i-Nasrya (Showing centre of City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-144">144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The British Bazar (Husseinabad), Sistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Wall of Sher-i-Nasrya at Sunset</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-156">156</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sar-tip</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-162">162</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan (Belgian Customs Officer in foreground)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sistan Consulate on Christmas Day, 1901</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-174">174</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Major R. E. Benn, British Consul for Sistan, and his Escort of 7th Bombay Lancers</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-186">186</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Citadel of Zaidan, the Great City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-202">202</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Zaidan West Towers and Modern Village</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-204">204</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Towers of the Citadel, Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>S.E. Portion of Zaidan City, showing how it disappears under distant sand accumulations</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Double Wall and Circular Unroofed Structures, Zaidan. In the distance high sand accumulations above City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Zaidan Fortress</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Graveyard of Zaidan City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>East View of the Zaidan Citadel</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Figure we dug out at Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arabic Inscription and marble columns with earthenware lamps upon them.<br />Fragment of water-pipe.<br />Stone implements.<br />Brick wall of the "Tombs of Forty Saints" showing in top corners of photograph.</td><td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arabic Inscription on Marble dug by Author at the City of Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Inscription dated 1282, found in the "Tomb of Forty Saints," Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Ornament above four lines of Koran on Grave Stone</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Ornamentations on Marble Grave</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Presumed Summits of Towers buried in Sand, Zaidan (Notice top of Castellated Wall behind.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sketch Plan of Zaidan Citadel, by A. Henry Savage Landor</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-228">228</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sketch Map of Summit of Kuh-i-Kwajah, by A. Henry Savage Landor</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-238">238</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dead Houses and Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Family Tomb (Eight Compartments) on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter"</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Gandun Piran" Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Bird's Eye View of Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter"</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-246">246</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sher-i-Rustam. (Rustam's City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Stable of Rustam's Legendary Horse</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Gate of Rustam's City, as seen from Rustam's House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-262">262</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Remains of the Two Upper Storeys of Rustam's House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-266">266</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rustam's City, showing Rustam's House in Citadel, also domed roofs blown in from the north</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-268">268</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plan of Sher-i-Rustam</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (West portion of City under the lee of wall)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-272">272</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House (South-east section of City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-274">274</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Saïd Khan, Duffadar and Levies at the Perso-Beluch Frontier Post of Robat</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-294">294</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Musicians (at Sibi)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-298">298</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Dance (at Sibi)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-304">304</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Beluch-Afghan Boundary Cairn and Malek-Siah Mountains in Background</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-306">306</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Deseet'">Desert</ins></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-310">310</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Black Tents at Mahommed Raza Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Pillar between Kirtaka and Saindak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sand Hills</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-318">318</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Caravan of Donkeys in Afghanistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-320">320</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In Afghanistan. Who are you?</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Thana and New Bungalow at Saindak. (Saindak Mt. in Background.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Prisoners at Saindak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Rest House, Mukak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Rest House at Sahib Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windmill at Mushki Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Three Beluch who would not be Photographed!</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ziarat at Chah Sandan. (Belind Khan Salaaming)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Desert covered with Gypsum, near Sotag</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Circular Mesjid, with Tomb and Outer Kneeling Place</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-364">364</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mesjid on the Site where a Man had been Killed between Kishingi and Morad Khan Kella</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-364">364</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Type of Thana and New Bungalow between Nushki and Robat</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-368">368</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Nushki-Robat Track</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-372">372</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Beluch Family</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-382">382</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Huts thatched with Palm Leaves and Tamarisk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-394">394</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Circular Ziarat with Stone, Marble and Horn Offerings</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-398">398</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ziarat with Tomb showing Stone Vessels</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-398">398</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Mesjid and Graveyard at Dalbandin</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-402">402</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kuchaki Chah Rest House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Beluch Mud Fort near Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Huts and Weaving Loom</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-416">416</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cave Dwellers, Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-416">416</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Badini Sardar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Salaam of the Beluch Sardars at Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The New City of Nushki (overlooking the Tashil Buildings.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-426">426</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jemadar and Levies, Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Giant Beluch Recruit. (Chaman.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Track between Nushki and Kishingi</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-432">432</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Taleri (Kanak). The new type of Rest House between Nushki and Quetta</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Boys off to the Races—Horse Fair at Sibi</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Map at the End of Volume.</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-446">446</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> +<p>1. Obvious punctuation and printing errors repaired.</p> + +<p>2. Format of: "(altitude," "per cent.," "<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>," "<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>," +"<span class="smcap">a.d.</span>," "<span class="smcap">b.c.</span>" and "<span class="smcap">s.s.</span>" +have been standardised.</p> + +<p>The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under +the corrections. +Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins +title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p> + +</div> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="V1"></a>ACROSS COVETED LANDS</h2> + +<h3>OR</h3> + +<h2>A JOURNEY FROM FLUSHING (HOLLAND) +TO CALCUTTA, OVERLAND</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR</h2> + +<h3><i>WITH 175 ILLUSTRATIONS, DIAGRAMS, PLANS AND MAPS</i></h3> +<h3><i>BY AUTHOR</i></h3> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES</h3> +<h3>VOL. I</h3> + +<h4>London</h4> +<h4>MACMILLAN AND CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span></h4> +<h4>1902</h4> + +<h5><i>All rights reserved</i></h5> +<p><a name="V1-Frontispiece" id="V1-Frontispiece"></a></p> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-01.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-01_th.jpg" alt="His Majesty the Shah of Persia." title="His Majesty the Shah of Persia." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">His Majesty the Shah of Persia.</p> + +<h5><span class="smcap">Richard Clay and Sons, Limited,</span></h5> +<h5><span class="smcap">london and bungay</span></h5> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations - Volume I"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>To face page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>His Majesty the Shah of Persia</td><td align='right'><a href="#V1-Frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Baku Oil Wells</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Wrestling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Making a <i>Kanat</i></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-74">74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-100">100</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Effetaieh'">Eftetahié</ins> College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-106">106</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Soldiers—The Band</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Recruits learning Music</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-126">126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-140">140</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The First Position in Persian Wrestling</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-170">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Woman and Child</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Picturesque Beggar Girl</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Shah in his Automobile</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-230">230</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Shah and his Suite</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-240">240</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Track along the Kohrut Dam</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-272">272</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chapparing—the Author's post horses</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Escort firing at Brigands</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jewish Girls, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>An Isfahan Jew</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Square, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-298">298</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Palace Gate, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-304">304</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boys Weaving a Carpet</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cotton Cleaners</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Hall of Forty Columns," Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-330">330</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-350">350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-352">352</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-366">366</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Halting at a Caravanserai</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Street in Yezd, showing High <i>Badjirs</i> or Ventilating Shafts</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-394">394</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-400">400</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-414">414</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-414">414</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-432">432</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-442">442</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Hot Room in a Persian Bath</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-444">444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-444">444</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-446">446</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ruined Houses of Farmitan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plan of House at Farmitan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-454">454</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A View of the Kerman Plain from the "Ya Ali" Inscription</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-458">458</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-458">458</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Map at the End of Volume.</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_1-461">461</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p><a name="Pg_1-1" id="Pg_1-1"></a></p> + +<h2>ACROSS COVETED LANDS</h2> + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_I" id="V1-CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The start—The terrors of the Russian Custom-house—An +amusing incident at the Russian frontier—Politeness of +Russian officials—Warsaw: its sights; its lovely women—The +talented Pole—People who know how to travel by +train—A ludicrous scene.</p></div><p> </p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">First</span> single to Baku," I requested when +my turn came at the window of the ticket office +at Victoria Station.</p> + +<p>"Baku?—where is that?" queried the ticket +man.</p> + +<p>"In Southern Russia."</p> + +<p>"Oh, I see! Well, we cannot book further +than Warsaw for Russia."</p> + +<p>"Warsaw will do. . . . . How much? . . . +Thank you."</p> + +<p>My baggage having next been duly registered +direct for the capital of Poland, off I set to +Queenborough, crossed over by the night boat +to Flushing, and continued the following morning +by express to Berlin.</p> + +<p>Once in the Russian train from the German<a name="Pg_1-2" id="Pg_1-2"></a> +capital one hears a great deal of the terrors of the +approaching Russian Custom-house, and here I +may relate rather an amusing incident which +will prove what these terrors amount to. In my +sleeping car there happened to be some French +merchants on their way to the fair of Nijni-Novgorod. +On perceiving my two rifles, a good-sized +ammunition case, and two cameras, one of +the gentlemen gratuitously informed me that if I +intended to proceed to Russia I had better leave +all these things behind, or they would all be confiscated +at the frontier. I begged to differ, and +the Frenchmen laughed boisterously at my +ignorance, and at what would happen presently. +In their imaginative minds they perceived my +valued firearms being lost for ever, and predicted +my being detained at the police station till it +pleased <i>les terribles Cossacques</i> to let me proceed.</p> + +<p>"Evidently," shouted one of the Frenchmen +at the top of his voice, "this is your first journey +abroad. . . . <i>We</i>," he added, "are great travellers. +We have been once before in Russia."</p> + +<p>"You <i>are</i> great travellers!" I exclaimed, with +the emphasis very strong on the <i>are</i>, and pretending +intense admiration.</p> + +<p>Naturally the Franco-Russian Alliance was +dragged into the conversation; were I a Frenchman +I might fare less badly. The Russians and +the French were brothers. But a British +subject! A hated Englishman bringing into +Russia two rifles, two revolvers, six hundred cartridges, +twelve hundred photographic plates, two +cameras, a large case of scientific instruments, all<a name="Pg_1-3" id="Pg_1-3"></a> +of which I would duly declare! Why? Russia +was not England. I should soon experience how +Englishmen were treated in some countries. +"Russians," he exclaimed, "have not a polished +manner like the French. <i>Ah, non!</i> They are +semi-barbarians yet. They respect and fear the +French, but not the English. . . . <i>par exemple!</i>"</p> + +<p>The frontier station of Alexandrovo was +reached, and a horde of terror-stricken passengers +alighted from the carriages, preceded and followed +by bags, portmanteaux, hold-alls, and bundles of +umbrellas, which were hastily conveyed to the +long tables of the huge Custom-house inspection +room.</p> + +<p>The two Frenchmen had their belongings next +to mine on the long counter, and presently an +officer came. They were French subjects and +they had nothing to declare. Their elaborately +decorated bags were instantly ordered open and +turned upside down, while the officer searched +with some gusto among the contents now spread +on the table. There was a small pocket camera, +two packets of photographic plates, some soiled +handkerchiefs, collars and cuffs, a box of fancy +note-paper, a bottle of scent, a pair of embroidered +pantoufles, and a lot of patent brass +studs and cuff links.</p> + +<p>With the exception of the soiled linen, everything +was seized, for all were liable to duty, and +some sharp words of reprimand were used by the +officer to my now subdued French neighbours for +attempting to smuggle.</p> + +<p>The officer moved on to me.<a name="Pg_1-4" id="Pg_1-4"></a></p> + +<p>"Monsieur," mournfully remarked the Frenchman, +"now <i>you</i> will be done for."</p> + +<p>I declared everything and produced a special +permit, which had been very courteously given +me by the Russian Ambassador, and handed it +to the officer. Having eagerly read it, he stood +with his heels together and gave me a military +salute. With a profound bow he begged me to +point out to him all my luggage so that he could +have it stamped without giving me further +trouble. He politely declined to use the keys I +handed him, and thinking that I might feel +uncomfortable in the hustling crowd of people he +conveyed me to a chair in order that I might sit +down.</p> + +<p>I turned round to look at the Frenchmen. +They had altogether collapsed.</p> + +<p>"I thought you said that Englishmen were +hated in Russia, and that they would confiscate +all my things? You see they have confiscated +nothing," I meekly remarked to the Frenchmen, +when they returned to the sleeping car. "I do +not think that I have met with more polite +Customs officials anywhere."</p> + +<p>"<i>Oui, oui</i>," muttered the stouter Frenchman, +who was evidently in no mood to enter into further +conversation. "<i>Et nous autres bêtes</i>," he soliloquized, +"<i>qui avons fait l'alliance avec ces sauvages +là! On m'a tout pris même le papier à lettres!</i>"</p> + +<p>He removed his coat and waistcoat and the +many interesting patent appliances for holding +his tie in the correct position—where it never +remained—then he threw himself violently on<a name="Pg_1-5" id="Pg_1-5"></a> +the berth, face towards the wall, and grumbled +the greater part of the night on the stupid mistake +of the Franco-Russian Alliance. On his return +to France he would write a letter to the Ministre +des Affaires Étrangères. After a long and tedious +soliloquy he fortunately fell asleep.</p> + +<p>Warsaw on the Vistula, the old capital of +Poland, was reached in the morning.</p> + +<p>The quickest way to Baku would have been to +proceed to Moscow and then by the so-called +"petroleum express," which leaves once a week, +every Tuesday, for Baku. Unluckily, I could +not reach Moscow in time, and therefore decided +to travel across Russia by the next best route, <i>via</i> +Kiev, Rostoff, and the Caspian. The few hours +I remained in Warsaw were pleasantly spent in +going about seeing the usual sights; the Palace +and lovely Lazienski gardens, laid out in the +old bed of the Vistula; the out-of-door theatre +on a small island, the auditorium being separated +by water from the stage; the lakes, the Saski +Ogrod, and the Krasinski public gardens; the +Jewish quarter of the town; the museums of +ancient and modern art.</p> + +<p>There are few cities in Europe that are prettier, +cleaner, and more animated than Warsaw, and few +women in the world that have a better claim to +good looks than the Warsaw fair sex. The +majority of women one sees in the streets are +handsome, and carry themselves well, and their +dress is in good taste, never over-done as it is in +Paris, for instance.</p> + +<p>The whole city has a flourishing appearance,<a name="Pg_1-6" id="Pg_1-6"></a> +with its tramways, gay omnibuses, electric light, +telephones, and every modern convenience. The +streets are broad and cheerful. In the newer +parts of the city there are beautiful residences, +several of which, I was told, belong to British +subjects settled there. The Russian military +element is very strong, for Poland's love for +Russia is not yet very great. As we walk along +the main thoroughfares a long string of Cossacks, +in their long black felt cloaks and Astrakan caps, +canter along. They are a remarkably picturesque +and business-like lot of soldiers.</p> + +<p>Poles are civility itself, that is, of course, if one +is civil to them.</p> + +<p>Historically the place is of extreme interest, +and the battlefields of Novogeorgievsk, which +played such an important part in the Polish +insurrection of 1831, and of Grochowo, where +the Poles were defeated, are well worth a visit. +At Maciejowice, too, some fifty miles up the +Vistula, Kosciuzko was made prisoner by the +conquering Russians.</p> + +<p>Warsaw is the third largest city in the Russian +Empire, and its favourable geographical position +makes it one of the great pivots of Eastern +Europe. With a navigable river and the great +main railway lines to important centres such as +Berlin, Vienna, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Dantzig, +Kiev, and Odessa, with good climatic conditions, +and fertile soil; with the pick of natural talent +in art and science, and the love for enterprise that +is innate in the Polish character, Warsaw cannot +help being a prosperous place.<a name="Pg_1-7" id="Pg_1-7"></a></p> + +<p>The city has very extensive suburbs. The +best known to foreigners, Praga, on the +opposite bank of the Vistula, is connected with +Warsaw by two iron bridges. Warsaw itself is +built on terraces, one above another, along the +bank of the river, but the main portion of the +city stands on a high undulating plain above. +There are over a hundred Catholic, several +Greek churches, and a number of synagogues; +a university, schools of art, academies, fourteen +monasteries, and two nunneries.</p> + +<p>There are few places in the world where the +artisan or the common workman is more intelligent +and artistic, and where the upper classes +are more refined and soundly cultured, than in +Warsaw. With a certain reflex of the neighbouring +German commercial influence, the place +has become a thriving manufacturing and trading +centre. Machinery, excellent pianos and other +musical instruments, carriages, silver and electro-plate, +boots and leather goods are manufactured +and exported on a large scale. The tanneries of +Warsaw are renowned the world over, and the +Warsaw boots are much sought after all over the +Russian Empire for their softness, lightness and +durability. Then there are great exports of +wheat, flax, sugar, beer, spirits, and tobacco.</p> + +<p>But time is short, and we must drive to the +station. Say what you will about the Russian, +there is a thing that he certainly knows how to +do. He knows how to travel by rail. One has +a great many preconceived ideas of the Russian +and his ways. One is always reminded that he<a name="Pg_1-8" id="Pg_1-8"></a> +is a barbarian, that he is ignorant, that he is +dirty. He is possibly a barbarian in one way, +that he can differentiate good from bad, real +comfort from "optical illusions" or illusions of +any other kind, a thing highly civilised people +seem generally unable to do. This is particularly +noticeable in Russian railway travelling,—probably +the best and cheapest in the world.</p> + +<p>To begin with, when you take a first-class +ticket it entitles you to a seat numbered and +reserved that nobody can appropriate. No +more tickets are sold than correspond with the +accommodation provided in the train. This +does away entirely with the "leaving one's +umbrella" business, to secure a seat, or scattering +one's belongings all over the carriage to ensure the +whole compartment to one's self, to the inconvenience +of other travellers. Then first, second +and third-class passengers are provided with +sleeping accommodation. The sleeping accommodation, +especially for first and second-class +passengers, consists of a wide and long berth +wherein they can turn round at their will, if +they please, not of a short, narrow bunk in +which even a lean person has to lie edgewise or +roll out, as in the continental sleeping car, for +which discomfort (rather than accommodation) +preposterous extra charges have to be paid, +above the first-class fare. Then, too, in the +latter the compartments are so small, so +ridiculously ventilated, that after one night +spent boxed in, especially if another passenger +shares the same cabin, one feels sick for some<a name="Pg_1-9" id="Pg_1-9"></a> +hours, and in the day-time one has no room to +turn round, nor space to put one's legs. As for +the lighting, the less said the better. These +faults exist in our own and the continental first-class +compartments.</p> + +<p>But the barbarian Russian knows and does +better. The line being of a very broad gauge, +his first-class carriages are extremely spacious and +very high, with large windows and efficacious +ventilators; and there is plenty of room everywhere +to spread one's limbs in every direction. +There is probably less gilding about the ceiling, +fewer nickel-plated catches about the doors; not +so much polished wood, nor ghastly coloured +imitation-leather paper, nor looking-glasses, but +very convenient folding-tables are found instead; +the seats are ample and serviceable, of plain, +handsome red velvet, devoid of the innumerable +dust-collecting button-pits—that striking feature +of British and continental railway-carriage decoration. +Movable cushions are provided for one's +back and head. There are bright electric lights +burning overhead, and adjustable reading lights +in the corners of the carriage. A corridor runs +along the whole train, and for a few kopeks +passengers can at any moment procure excellent +tea, caviare sandwiches, or other light refreshments +from attendants.</p> + +<p>Now for the bedding itself. The Russian, +who is ever a practical man, carries his own +bedding—a couple of sheets, blankets, and small +pillow,—a custom infinitely cleaner and more +sensible than sleeping in dubious, smelly blankets<a name="Pg_1-10" id="Pg_1-10"></a> +of which one does not know who has used them +before, nor when they were washed last. But +if passengers wish, by paying a rouble (two +shillings) a night to the guard, bedding is provided +by the Railway. There is a fine <i>lavabo</i> at +the end of each carriage, with shampoo, hot and +cold water, etc. Here, too, by asking the guard, +towels are handed over to those passengers who +have not brought their own.</p> + +<p>Here I may relate another amusing incident. +Unable to get at my towels packed in my registered +baggage, and ignorant of the Russian language, +I inquired of a polyglot fellow-passenger +what was the Russian word for towel, so that I +could ask the guard for one.</p> + +<p>"<i>Palatiensi</i>," said he, and I repeated, "Palatiensi, +palatiensi, palatiensi," so as to impress the +word well upon my memory. Having enjoyed +a good wash and a shampoo, and dripping all +over with water, I rang for the guard, and sure +enough, when the man came, I could not recollect +the word. At last it dawned upon me +that it was,—"<i>Palatinski</i>," and "<i>Palatinski</i>," I +asked of the guard.</p> + +<p>To my surprise the guard smiled graciously, +and putting on a modest air replied: "<i>Palatinski +niet, paruski</i> (I do not speak Latin, I speak only +Russian)," and the more I repeated "palatinski," +putting the inflection now on one syllable, then +on the other, to make him understand, the more +flattered the man seemed to be, and modestly +gave the same answer.</p> + +<p>This was incomprehensible to me, until my<a name="Pg_1-11" id="Pg_1-11"></a> +polyglot fellow-passenger came to my assistance.</p> + +<p>"Do you know what you are asking the +guard?" he said in convulsions of laughter.</p> + +<p>"Yes, I am asking for a 'palatinski'—a towel."</p> + +<p>"No, you are not!" and he positively went +into hysterics. "Palatinski means 'Do you +speak Latin?' How can you expect a Russian +railway-guard to speak Latin? Look how incensed +the poor man is at being mistaken for a +Latin scholar! Ask him for a <i>palatiensi</i>, and he +will run for a towel."</p> + +<p>The man did run on the magic word being +pronounced, and duly returned with a nice clean +<i>palatiensi</i>, which, however, was little use to me +for I had by this time nearly got dry by the +natural processes of dripping and evaporation.</p> + +<p>One or two other similar incidents, and the +extreme civility one meets from every one while +travelling in Russia, passed the time away +pleasantly until Kiev, one of the oldest cities of +Russia, was reached.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-12" id="Pg_1-12"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_II" id="V1-CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Kiev—Its protecting Saint—Intellectuality and trade—Priests +and education—Wherein lies the strength of Russia—Industries—A +famous Monastery—The Catacombs of St. +Theodosius and St. Anthony—Pilgrims—Veneration of +Saints—The Dnieper river—Churches—A luminous cross—Kharkoff—Agriculture—Horse +fairs—Rostoff—Votka +drunkenness—Strong fortifications—Cheap and good travelling—Baku.</p></div><p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tradition</span> tells us that Kiev was founded +before the Christian era, and its vicissitudes have +since been many and varied. It has at all times +been considered one of the most important +ecclesiastical centres of Russia,—if not indeed +the most important—but particularly since St. +Vladimir, the protecting saint of the city, +preached Christianity there in 988, this being +the first time that the religion of Christ had +been expounded in Russia. A century and a +half before that time (in 822) Kiev was the +capital city of the state and remained such till +1169. In 1240 it was captured by Mongols +who held it for 81 years. The Lithuanians +came next, and remained in possession for 249 +years, until 1569; then Poland possessed it until +the year 1654, when it became part of the +Russian Empire.<a name="Pg_1-13" id="Pg_1-13"></a></p> + +<p>Kiev has the name of being a very intellectual +city. Somehow or other, intellectuality and +trade do not seem to go together, and although +the place boasts of a military school and arsenal, +theological colleges, a university, a school of +sacred picture painters, and a great many scientific +and learned societies, we find that none of these +are locally put to any marked practical use, +except the sacred-picture painting; the images +being disposed of very rapidly, and for comparatively +high prices all over the country. +Hardly any religious resorts are great commercial +centres, the people of these places being generally +conservative and bigoted and the ruling priestly +classes devoting too much attention to idealism +to embark in commercial enterprise, which leaves +little time for praying. Agriculture and horticulture +are encouraged and give good results.</p> + +<p>The priests make money—plenty of it—by +their religion, and they probably know that there +is nothing more disastrous to religion in laymen +than rapid money-making by trade or otherwise. +With money comes education, and with education, +too powerful a light thrown upon superstition +and idolatry. It is nevertheless possible, +even probable, that in the ignorance of the +masses, in the fervent and unshaken confidence +which they possess in God, the Czar and their +leaders, may yet lie the greatest strength of +Russia. It must not be forgotten that half-educated, +or half uneducated, masses are probably +the weakness to-day of most other civilised +nations.<a name="Pg_1-14" id="Pg_1-14"></a></p> + +<p>Some business on a small scale, however, is +transacted at the various fairs held in Kiev, such +as the great fair at the beginning of the Russian +year. There are many beet-root sugar refineries, +the staple industry of the country, and next come +leather tanneries, worked leather, machinery, +spirits, grain and tobacco. Wax candles are +manufactured in huge quantities, and in the +monastery there is a very ancient printing-press +for religious books.</p> + +<p>Peter the Great erected a fortress here in a +most commanding spot. It is said to contain +up-to-date guns. A special pass has to be +obtained from the military authorities to be +allowed to enter it, not so much because it is +used as an arsenal, but because from the high +tower a most excellent panoramic view is +obtained of the city, the neighbourhood, and the +course of the river down below.</p> + +<p>But Kiev is famous above all for its monastery, +the Kievo-Petcherskaya, near which the two +catacombs of St. Theodosius and St. Antony +attract over three hundred thousand pilgrims +every year. The first catacomb contains forty-five +bodies of saints, the other eighty and the revered +remains are stored in plain wood or silver-mounted +coffins, duly labelled with adequate +inscriptions. The huge monastery itself bears +the appearance of great wealth, and has special +accommodation for pilgrims. As many as +200,000 pilgrims are said to receive board and +lodging yearly in the monastery. These are +naturally pilgrims of the lower classes.<a name="Pg_1-15" id="Pg_1-15"></a></p> + +<p>Enormous riches in solid gold, silver and +jewellery are stored in the monastery and are +daily increased by devout gifts.</p> + +<p>But let us visit the catacombs.</p> + +<p>The spare-looking, long-haired and bearded +priests at the entrance of the catacomb present +to each pilgrim, as a memento, a useful and +much valued wax candle, which one lights and +carries in one's hand down the steep and +slippery steps of the subterranean passages. All +along, the procession halts before mummified +and most unattractive bodies, a buzzing of +prayers being raised by the pilgrims when the +identity of each saint is explained by the priest +conducting the party. The more devout people +stoop over the bodies and kiss them fervently +all over, voluntarily and gladly disbursing in +return for the privilege all such small cash as +may lie idle in their pockets.</p> + +<p>Down and down the crowd goes through +the long winding, cold, damp, rancid-smelling +passages, devoid of the remotest gleam of +ventilation, and where one breathes air so thick +and foul that it sticks to one's clothes and furs +one's tongue, throat and lungs for several hours +after one has emerged from the catacombs into +fresh air again. Yet there are hermit monks +who spend their lives underground without ever +coming up to the light, and in doing so become +bony, discoloured, ghastly creatures, with staring, +inspired eyes and hollow cheeks, half demented +to all appearance, but much revered and +respected by the crowds for their self-sacrifice.<a name="Pg_1-16" id="Pg_1-16"></a></p> + +<p>Further on the pilgrims drink holy water +out of a small cup made in the shape of a cross, +with which the liquid is served out from a +larger vessel. The expression of beatitude on +their faces as they sip of the holy water, and +their amazing reverence for all they see and +are told to do, are quite extraordinary to watch, +and are quite refreshing in these dying days of +idealism supplanted by fast-growing and less +poetic atheistic notions. The scowl I received +from the priest when my turn came and he +lifted the tin cross to my lips, is still well +impressed upon my mind. I drew back and +politely declined to drink. There was a +murmur of strong disapproval from all the +people present, and the priest grumbled something; +but really, what with the fetid smell +of tallow-candle smoke, the used-up air, and +the high scent of pilgrims—and religious people +ever have a pungent odour peculiar to themselves—water, +whether holy or otherwise, was +about the very beverage that would have +finished me up at that particular moment.</p> + +<p>Glad I was to be out in the open air again, +driving through the pretty gardens of Kiev, +and to enjoy the extensive view from the high +cliffs overlooking the winding Dnieper River. +A handsome suspension bridge joins the two +banks. The river is navigable and during the +spring floods the water has been known to rise +as much as twenty feet.</p> + +<p>The city of Kiev is situated on high undulating +ground some 350 feet above the river, and<a name="Pg_1-17" id="Pg_1-17"></a> +up to 1837 consisted of the old town, Podol +and Petchersk, to which forty-two years later +were added Shulyavka, Solomenka, Kurenevka +and Lukyanovka, the city being divided into +eight districts. The more modern part of the +town is very handsome, with wide streets and +fine stone houses of good architecture, whereas +the poorer abodes are mostly constructed of +wood.</p> + +<p>As in all the other cities of Russia there are +in Kiev a great many churches, over seventy +in all, the oldest of which is the Cathedral of +St. Sophia in the centre of the town, built as +early as 1037 on the spot where the Petchenegs +were defeated the previous year by Yarosloff. +It is renowned for its superb altar, its valuable +mosaics and the tombs of Russian grand-dukes. +Next in importance is the Church of the +Assumption, containing the bodies of seven +saints conveyed here from Constantinople. At +night the cross borne by the statue of Vladimir, +erected on a high point overlooking the Dnieper, +is lighted up by electricity. This luminous +cross can be seen for miles and miles all over +the country, and the effect is most impressive +and weird.</p> + +<p>From Kiev I had to strike across country, +and the trains were naturally not quite so +luxurious as the express trains on the main +line, but still the carriages were of the same +type, extremely comfortable and spacious, and +all the trains corridor trains.</p> + +<p>The next important city where I halted for<a name="Pg_1-18" id="Pg_1-18"></a> +a few hours was Kharkoff in the Ukraine, an +agricultural centre where beet-root was raised in +huge quantities and sugar manufactured from +it; wheat was plentiful, and good cattle, sheep +and horses were bred. The population was +mostly of Cossacks of the Don and Little +Russians. The industries of the place were +closely akin to farming. Agricultural implements +were manufactured; there were wool-cleaning +yards, soap and candle factories, wheat-mills, +brandy distilleries, leather tanneries, cloth +manufactories, and brick kilns.</p> + +<p>The horse fairs at Kharkoff are patronised by +buyers from all parts of Russia, but to outsiders +the city is probably better known as the early +cradle of Nihilistic notions. Although quite a +handsome city, with fine streets and remarkably +good shops, Kharkoff has nothing special to +attract the casual visitor, and in ordinary times a +few hours are more than sufficient to get a fair +idea of the place.</p> + +<p>With a railway ticket punched so often that +there is very little left of it, we proceed to +Rostoff, where we shall strike the main line +from Moscow to the Caucasus. Here is a +comparatively new city—not unlike the +shambling lesser Western cities of the United +States of America, with plenty of tumbling-down, +made-anyhow fences, and empty tin cans +lying everywhere. The streets are unpaved, and +the consequent dust blinding, the drinking +saloons in undue proportion to the number of +houses, and votka-drunken people in undue<a name="Pg_1-19" id="Pg_1-19"></a> +proportion to the population. Votka-drunkenness +differs from the intoxication of other liquors +in one particular. Instead of "dead drunk" it +leaves the individuals drunk-dead. You see a +disgusting number of these corpse-like folks lying +about the streets, cadaverous-looking and motionless, +spread flat on their faces or backs, uncared-for +by everybody. Some sleep it off, and, if not +run over by a droshki, eventually go home; +some sleep it on, and are eventually conveyed to +the graveyard, and nobody seems any the wiser +except, of course, the people who do not drink +bad votka to excess.</p> + +<p>Rostoff stands at the head of the Delta of the +Don, a position of great strategical importance, +where of course the Russians have not failed to +build strong fortifications. These were begun +as early as 1761. Now very active ship-building +yards are found here, and extensive +caviare factories. Leather, wool, corn, soap, +ropes and tobacco are also exported, and the +place, apart from its military importance, is +steadily growing commercially. The majority +of shops seem to deal chiefly in American +and German made agricultural implements, +machinery and tools, and in firearms and knives +of all sizes and shapes. The place is not +particularly clean and certainly hot, dusty and +most unattractive. One is glad to get into the +train again and steam away from it.</p> + +<p>As we get further South towards the Caucasus +the country grows more barren and hot, the dust +is appalling, but the types of inhabitants at the<a name="Pg_1-20" id="Pg_1-20"></a> +little stations become very picturesque. The +Georgians are very fine people and the +Armenians too, in appearance at least. The +station sheds along the dusty steppes are guarded +by soldiers, presumably to prevent attacks on +the trains, and as one gets near the Caspian one +begins to see the wooden pyramids over oil wells, +and long freight trains of petroleum carried in +iron cylindrical tanks. The wells get more +numerous as we go along; the stations more +crowded with petroleum tanks. We are nearing +the great naphtha wells of Baku, where at +last we arrive, having travelled from Tuesday to +Sunday afternoon, or five days, except a few +hours' halt in Kiev, Kharkoff and Rostoff.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-02.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-02_th.jpg" alt="The Baku Oil Wells." title="The Baku Oil Wells." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Baku Oil Wells.</p> + +<p>The first-class railway fare from Warsaw for +the whole journey was fully covered by a five-pound +note, and, mind you, could have been +done cheaper if one chose to travel by slower +trains on a less direct route!</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-21" id="Pg_1-21"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_III" id="V1-CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Baku—Unnecessary anxiety—A storm—Oil wells—Naphtha +spouts—How the wells are worked—The native city—The +Baku Bay—Fortifications—The Maiden's Tower—Depressing +vegetation—Baku dust—Prosperity and hospitality—The +Amir of Bokhara—The mail service to Persia on the +Caspian—The Mercury and Caucasus line—Lenkoran—Astara +(Russo-Persian boundary)—Antiquated steamers.</p></div><p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">So</span> many accounts are heard of how one's +registered baggage in Russia generally arrives +with locks smashed and minus one's most valuable +property, and how unpunctual in arriving luggage +is, and how few passengers escape without having +their pockets picked before reaching their +destination—by the way, a fellow-passenger had +his pockets picked at the station of Mineralnya +Vod—that I was somewhat anxious to see my +belongings again, and fully expected to find that +something had gone wrong with them. Much +to my surprise, on producing the receipt at +the very handsome railway terminus, all my +portmanteaux and cases were instantly delivered +in excellent condition.</p> + +<p>The Caspian Sea steamers for Persia leave +Baku on Sunday and Tuesday at midnight.<a name="Pg_1-22" id="Pg_1-22"></a> +There was a fierce sand storm raging at the time +and the steamer had returned without being able +to land her passengers at their destination. I +decided to wait till the Tuesday. There is plenty +to interest one in Baku. I will not describe the +eternal fires, described so often by other visitors, +nor tell how naphtha was tapped for the first time +at this place, and how in 1886 one particular +well spouted oil with such tremendous force that +it was impossible to check it and it deluged a +good portion of the neighbourhood. A year +later, in 1887, another fountain rose to a height +of 350 ft. There are myriads of other lesser +fountains and wells, each covered by a wooden +shed like a slender pyramid, and it is a common +occurrence to see a big spout of naphtha rising +outside and high above the top of the wooden +shed, now from one well, now from another.</p> + +<p>The process of bringing naphtha to the surface +under ordinary circumstances is simple and +effective, a metal cylinder is employed that has a +valve at the lower end allowing the tube to fill +while it descends, and closing automatically when +the tube is full and is being raised above ground +and emptied into pits provided for the purpose. +The naphtha then undergoes the process of refinement. +There are at the present moment +hundreds of refineries in Baku. The residue and +waste of naphtha are used as fuel, being very much +cheaper than coal or wood.</p> + +<p>The greater number of wells are found a few +miles out of the town on the Balakhani Peninsula, +and the naphtha is carried into the Baku<a name="Pg_1-23" id="Pg_1-23"></a> +refineries by numerous pipe lines. The whole +country round is, however, impregnated with oil, +and even the sea in one or two bays near Baku +is coated with inflammable stuff and can be +ignited by throwing a lighted match upon it. +At night this has a weird effect.</p> + +<p>Apart from the oil, Baku—especially the +European settlement—has nothing to fascinate +the traveller. In the native city, Persian in type, +with flat roofs one above the other and the hill +top crowned by a castle and the Mosque of Shah +Abbas, constant murders occur. The native +population consists mostly of Armenians and +Persians. Cotton, saffron, opium, silk and salt +are exported in comparatively small quantities. +Machinery, grain and dried fruit constitute the +chief imports.</p> + +<p>The crescent-shaped Baku Bay, protected as it +is by a small island in front of it, affords a safe +anchorage for shipping. It has good ship-yards +and is the principal station of the Russian fleet in +the Caspian. Since Baku became part of the +Russian Empire in 1806 the harbour has been +very strongly fortified.</p> + +<p>The most striking architectural sight in Baku +is the round Maiden's Tower by the water edge, +from the top of which the lovely daughter of +the Khan of Baku precipitated herself on to the +rocks below because she could not marry the man +she loved.</p> + +<p>The most depressing sight in Baku is the +vegetation, or rather the strenuous efforts of the +lover of plants to procure verdure at all costs in<a name="Pg_1-24" id="Pg_1-24"></a> +the gardens. It is seldom one's lot to see trees +and plants look more pitiable, notwithstanding +the unbounded care that is taken of them. The +terrific heat of Baku, the hot winds and sand-storms +are deadly enemies to vegetation. Nothing +will grow. One does not see a blade of +grass nor a shrub anywhere except those few +that are artificially brought up. The sand is +most trying. It is so fine that the wind forces +it through anything, and one's tables, one's +chairs, one's bed are yellow-coated with it. The +tablecloth at the hotel, specklessly white when +you begin to dine, gets gradually yellower at +sight, and by the time you are half through +your dinner the waiter has to come with a +brush to remove the thick coating of dust on +the table.</p> + +<p>These are the drawbacks, but there is an air +of prosperity about the place and people that +is distinctly pleasing, even although one may +not share in it. There is quite a fair foreign +community of business people, and their activity +is very praiseworthy. The people are very +hospitable—too hospitable. When they do not +talk of naphtha, they drink sweet champagne in +unlimited quantities. But what else could they +do? Everything is naphtha here, everything +smells of naphtha, the steamers, the railway +engines are run with naphtha. The streets are +greasy with naphtha. Occasionally—frequently +of late—the monotony of the place is broken +by fires of gigantic proportions on the premises +of over-insured well-owners. The destruction<a name="Pg_1-25" id="Pg_1-25"></a> +to property on such occasions is immense, the +fires spreading with incalculable rapidity over an +enormous area, and the difficulty of extinguishing +them being considerable.</p> + +<p>When I was in Baku the Amir of Bokhara +was being entertained in the city as guest of +the Government. His suite was quartered in +the Grand Hotel. He had taken his usual +tour through Russia and no trouble had been +spared to impress the Amir with the greatness +of the Russian Empire. He had been given a +very good time, and I was much impressed +with the pomp and cordiality with which he +was treated. Neither the Governor nor any +of the other officials showed him the usual +stand-off manner which in India, for instance, +would have been used towards an Asiatic +potentate, whether conquered by us or otherwise. +They dealt with him as if he had been a +European prince—at which the Amir seemed +much flattered. He had a striking, good-natured +face with black beard and moustache, +and dark tired eyes that clearly testified to +Russian hospitality.</p> + +<p>I went to see him off on the steamer which +he kept waiting several hours after the advertised +time of departure. He dolefully strode on board +over a grand display of oriental rugs, while the +military brass band provided for the occasion +played Russian selections. Everybody official +wore decorations, even the captain of the merchant +ship, who proudly bore upon his chest a +brilliant star—a Bokhara distinction received<a name="Pg_1-26" id="Pg_1-26"></a> +from the Amir on his outward journey for navigating +him safely across the Caspian.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-03.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-03_th.jpg" alt="The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country." title="The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country.</p> + +<p>The Amir's suite was very picturesque, some +of the men wearing long crimson velvet gowns +embroidered in gold, others silk-checked garments. +All had white turbans. The snapshot +reproduced in the illustration shows the Amir +accompanied by the Governor of Baku just +stepping on board.</p> + +<p>There is a regular mail service twice a week +in summer, from April to the end of October, +and once a week in winter, on the Caspian +between Baku and Enzeli in Persia, the Russian +Government paying a subsidy to the Kavkas and +Mercury Steam Navigation Company for the +purpose of conveying passengers, mails (and, in +the event of war, troops) into Persia and back. +There are also a number of coasting steamers +constantly plying between the various ports on +the Caspian both on the Russian and Persian +coast.</p> + +<p>The hurricane having abated there was a prospect +of a fair voyage and the probability of +landing at Enzeli in Persia, so when the Tuesday +came I went on board the old rickety paddle-steamer +(no less than forty-five years old) which +was to convey me to that port. She was one of +the Mercury-Caucasus Co. fleet, and very dirty +she was, too.</p> + +<p>It is perhaps right to mention that for the +first time in Russia, purposeless rudeness and +insolence came to my notice on the part of the +ticket officials of the Mercury line. They be<a name="Pg_1-27" id="Pg_1-27"></a>haved +like stupid children, and were absolutely +incompetent to do the work which had been +entrusted to them. They were somewhat surprised +when I took them to task and made +them "sit up." Having found that they had +played the fool with the wrong man they instantly +became very meek and obliging. It is +nevertheless a great pity that the Mercury Company +should employ men of this kind who, for +some aim of their own, annoy passengers, both +foreign and Russian, and are a disgrace to the +Company and their country.</p> + +<p>On board ship the captain, officers and +stewards were extremely civil. Nearly all the +captains of the Caspian steamers were Norwegian +or from Finland, and were jolly fellows. The +cabins were very much inhabited, so much so +that it was difficult to sleep in them at all. +Insects so voracious and in such quantities and +variety were in full possession of the berths, that +they gave one as lively a night as it is possible +for mortals to have. Fortunately the journey +was not a long one, and having duly departed +at midnight from Baku I reached Lenkoran the +next day, with its picturesque background of +mountains and thickly-wooded country. This +spot is renowned for tiger-shooting.</p> + +<p>Our next halt was at Astara, where there were +a number of wooden sheds and drinking saloons,—a +dreadful place, important only because on +the Perso-Russian boundary line formed by the +river of the same name. We landed here a +number of police officers, who were met by a<a name="Pg_1-28" id="Pg_1-28"></a> +deputation of some fifty Persian-looking men, +who threw their arms round their necks and in turn +lustily kissed them on both cheeks. It was a +funny sight. When we got on board again after +a couple of hours on shore the wind rose and we +tossed about considerably. Another sleepless +night on the "living" mattress in the bunk, and +early in the morning we reached the Persian +port of Enzeli.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-29" id="Pg_1-29"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_IV" id="V1-CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Port of Enzeli—Troublesome landing—Flat-bottomed +boats—A special permit—Civility of officials—Across the +Murd-ap lagoon—Piri-Bazaar—A self-imposed golden +rule—Where our stock came from—The drive to Resht—The +bazaar—The native shops and foreign goods—Ghilan's +trade—The increase in trade—British and Russian +competitions—Sugar—Tobacco—Hotels—The British +Consulate—The Governor's palace—H.E. Salare Afkham—A +Swiss hotel—Banks.</p></div><p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">One</span> calls Enzeli a "port" <i>pour façon de +parler</i>, for Persia has no harbours at all on the +Caspian sea. Enzeli, Meshed-i-Sher or Astrabad, +the three principal landing places on the Persian +coast, have no shelter for ships, which have to +lie a good distance out at sea while passengers +and cargo are transhipped by the Company's +steam launch or—in rough weather—by rowing +boats. In very rough weather it is impossible +to effect a landing at all, and—this is a most +frequent occurrence on the treacherous Caspian—after +reaching one's journey's end one has to +go all the way back to the starting point and +begin afresh. There are people who have been +compelled to take the journey four or five times +before they could land, until the violent storms<a name="Pg_1-30" id="Pg_1-30"></a> +which often rage along the Persian coast had +completely subsided and allowed the flimsy steam-launch +at Enzeli to come out to meet the +steamers, lying about a mile outside.</p> + +<p>We had passengers on board who had been +unable to land on the previous journey, and were +now on their second attempt to set foot in +Persia. We were rolling a good deal when we +cast anchor, and after waiting some hours we +were informed that it was too rough for the +steam-launch to come out. The captain feared +that he must put to sea again, as the wind was +rising and he was afraid to remain so near the +coast. Two rowing boats eventually came out, +and with some considerable exertion of the +rowers succeeded in getting near the steamer. I +immediately chartered one, and after a good deal +of see-saw and banging and knocking and +crackling of wood alongside the steamer, my +baggage and I were transhipped into the flat-bottomed +boat. Off we rowed towards the +shore, getting drenched each time that the boat +dipped her nose into the sea.</p> + +<p>The narrow entrance of the Enzeli bay is +blocked by a sand-bar. The water is here very +shallow, only about six feet deep. Riding on +the top of the breakers was quite an experience, +and we occasionally shipped a good deal of water. +We, however, landed safely and had to pay pretty +dearly for the convenience. The boatmen do not +run the risk of going out for nothing, and when +they do, take every advantage of passengers who +employ them. I was fortunate to get off by<a name="Pg_1-31" id="Pg_1-31"></a> +giving a backshish of a few <i>tomans</i> (dollars), +but there are people who have been known to +pay three, four and even five pounds sterling to +be conveyed on shore.</p> + +<p>Here, too, thanks to the civility of the Persian +Ambassador in London, I had a special permit +for my firearms, instruments, etc., and met with +the greatest courtesy from the Belgian and +Persian officers in the Customs. It is necessary +to have one's passport in order, duly <i>visé</i> by the +Persian Consul in London, or else a delay might +occur at Enzeli.</p> + +<p>There is a lighthouse at Enzeli, the Customs +buildings and a small hotel. From this point a +lagoon, the Murd-ap has to be crossed, either +by the small steam-launch or by rowing boat. +As there seemed to be some uncertainty about +the departure of the launch, and as I had a good +deal of luggage, I preferred the latter way. +Eight powerful men rowed with all their might +at the prospect of a good backshish; and we +sped along at a good pace on the placid waters of +the lagoon, in big stretches of open water, now +skirting small islands, occasionally through narrow +canals, the banks of which were covered with +high reeds and heavy, tropical, confused, untidy +vegetation. The air was still and stifling—absolutely +unmoved, screened as it was on all +sides by vegetation. The sailors sang a monotonous +cadence, and the boat glided along for +some three hours until we arrived at the mouth +of the Piri river, hardly wide enough for a +couple of boats to go through simultaneously,<a name="Pg_1-32" id="Pg_1-32"></a> +and so shallow that rowing was no longer +practicable.</p> + +<p>The men jumped off, tied the towing rope +that hung from the mast to their belts, and +ran along the banks of the Piri river, the water +of which was almost stagnant. An hour or so +later we suddenly came upon a number of +boats jammed together in the miniature harbour +of Piri Bazaar—a pool of putrid water a few +feet in circumference. As the boat gradually +approached, a stone-paved path still separated +from you by a thick wide layer of filthy mud +wound its way to the few miserable sheds—the +bazaar—up above. A few trays of grapes, +some Persian bread, some earthenware pottery +of the cheapest kind, are displayed in the shop +fronts—and that is all of the Piri-Bazaar. On +landing at Enzeli one hears so much of +Piri-Bazaar that one gets to imagine it a +big, important place,—and as it is, moreover, +practically the first really typical Persian place +at which one touches, the expectations are high. +Upon arrival there one's heart sinks into one's +boots, and one's boots sink deep into black +stinking mud as one takes a very long—yet +much too short—jump from the boat on to +what one presumes to be <i>terra firma</i>.</p> + +<p>With boots clogged and heavy with filth, +a hundred people like ravenous birds of prey +yelling in your ears (and picking your pockets +if they have a chance), with your luggage +being mercilessly dragged in the mud, with +everybody demanding backshish on all sides,<a name="Pg_1-33" id="Pg_1-33"></a> +tapping you on the shoulder or pulling your +coat,—thus one lands in real Persia.</p> + +<p>In the country of Iran one does not travel for +pleasure nor is there any pleasure in travelling. +For study and interest, yes. There is plenty +of both everywhere.</p> + +<p>Personally, I invariably make up my mind +when I start for the East that no matter what +happens I will on no account get out of temper, +and this self-imposed rule—I must admit—was +never, in all my travels, tried to the +tantalising extent that it was in the country +of the Shah. The Persian lower classes—particularly +in places where they have come +in contact with Europeans—are well-nigh +intolerable. There is nothing that they will +not do to annoy you in every possible way, +to extort backshish from you. In only one +way do Persians in this respect differ from +other Orientals. The others usually try to +obtain money by pleasing you and being useful +and polite, whereas the Persian adopts the +quicker, if not safer, method of bothering you +and giving you trouble to such an unlimited +degree that you are compelled to give something +in order to get rid of him. And in a +country where no redress can be obtained from +the police, where laws do not count, and where +the lower classes are as corrupt and unscrupulous +as they are in the more civilised parts of Persia +(these remarks do not apply to the parts +where few or no Europeans have been) the +only way to save one's self from constant worry<a name="Pg_1-34" id="Pg_1-34"></a> +and repressed anger—so bad for one's health—is +to make up one's mind at once to what +extent one is prepared to be imposed upon, +and leave the country after. That is to say, +if one does not wish to adopt the only other +and more attractive alternative of inflicting +summary justice on two-thirds of the natives +one meets,—too great an exertion, to be sure, +in so hot a climate.</p> + +<p>They say that Persia is the country that +our stock came from. It is quite possible, and +if so we are indeed to be congratulated upon +having morally improved so much since, or +the Persians to be condoled with on their sad +degeneration. The better classes, however, are +very different, as we shall see later.</p> + +<p>Personally, I adopted the first method suggested +above, the easier of the two, and I +deliberately put by what I thought was a fair +sum to be devoted exclusively to extortion. +On leaving the country several months later, +much to my astonishment I found that I had +not been imposed upon half as much as I +expected, although I had stayed in Persia double +the time I had intended. Maybe this can be +accounted for by my having spent most of my +time in parts not so much frequented by Europeans. +Indeed, if the Persian is to-day the perfidious +individual he is, we have to a great extent +only ourselves to blame for making him so.</p> + +<p>Keeping my temper under control, and an +eye on my belongings, I next hired a carriage +to convey me to the town of Resht, seven<a name="Pg_1-35" id="Pg_1-35"></a> +miles distant. In damp heat, that made one's +clothes moist and unpleasant, upon a road +muddy to such an extent that the wheels sank +several inches in it and splashed the passenger +all over, we galloped through thick vegetation +and patches of agriculture, and entered the +city of Resht. Through the narrow winding +streets of the bazaar we slowed down somewhat +in some places, the carriage almost touching +the walls of the street on both sides. The +better houses possess verandahs with banisters +painted blue, while the walls of the buildings +are generally white.</p> + +<p>One is struck by the great number of shoe +shops in the bazaar, displaying true Persian shoes +with pointed turned-up toes,—then by the brass +and copper vessel shops, the ancient and +extremely graceful shapes of the vessels and +amphoras being to this date faithfully preserved +and reproduced. More pleasing still to the eye +are the fruit shops, with huge trays of water-melons, +cucumbers, figs, and heaps of grapes. +The latter are, nevertheless, not so very tasty to +the palate and do not compare with the delicate +flavour of the Italian or Spanish grapes.</p> + +<p>Somewhat incongruous and out-of-place, yet +more numerous than truly Persian shops, are the +semi-European stores, with cheap glass windows +displaying inside highly dangerous-looking +kerosene lamps, badly put together tin goods, +soiled enamel tumblers and plates, silvered glass +balls for ceiling decoration, and the vilest +oleographs that the human mind can devise,<a name="Pg_1-36" id="Pg_1-36"></a> +only matched by the vileness of the frames. +Small looking-glasses play an important part in +these displays, and occasionally a hand sewing-machine. +Tinned provisions, wine and +liquor shops are numerous, but unfortunate is +the man who may have to depend upon them +for his food. The goods are the remnants of +the oldest stocks that have gradually drifted, +unsold, down to Baku, and have eventually been +shipped over for the Persian market where +people do not know any better. Resht is the +chief city in the Ghilan province.</p> + +<p>Ghilan's trade in piece-goods is about two-thirds +in the hands of Russia, while one-third +(or even less) is still retained by England,—Manchester +goods. This cannot well be helped, +for there is no direct route from Great Britain +to Resht, and all British goods must come +through Bagdad, Tabriz, or Baku. The two +first routes carry most of the trade, which +consists principally of shirtings, prints, cambrics, +mulls, nainsooks, and Turkey-reds, which are +usually put down as of Turkish origin, whereas +in reality they come from Manchester, and are +merely re-exported, mainly from Constantinople, +by native firms either in direct traffic or in +exchange for goods received.</p> + +<p>One has heard a great deal of the enormous +increase in trade in Persia during the last couple +of years or so. The increase has not been in the +trade itself, but in the collection of Customs dues, +which is now done in a regular and business like +fashion by competent Belgian officials, instead of<a name="Pg_1-37" id="Pg_1-37"></a> +by natives, to whom the various collecting stations +were formerly farmed out.</p> + +<p>It will not be very easy for the British trader +to compete successfully with the Russian in +northern Persia, for that country, being +geographically in such close proximity, can +transport her cheaply made goods at a very low +cost into Iran. Also the Russian Government +allows enormous advantages to her own traders +with Persia in order to secure the Persian +market, and to develop her fast-increasing +industrial progress,—advantages which British +traders do not enjoy. Still, considering all the +difficulties British trade has to contend with in +order to penetrate, particularly into Ghilan, it is +extraordinary how some articles, like white +Manchester shirtings, enjoy practically a +monopoly, being of a better quality than similar +goods sent by Russia, Austria, Hungary, +Germany, Italy or Holland.</p> + +<p>Loaf sugar, which came at one time almost +entirely from France, has been cut out by +Russian sugar, which is imported in large +quantities and eventually finds its way all over +Persia. It is of inferior quality, but very much +cheaper than sugar of French manufacture, and +is the chief Russian import into Ghilan.</p> + +<p>Tobacco comes principally from Turkey and +Russia. In going on with our drive through the +bazaar we see it sold in the tiny tobacco shops, +where it is tastily arranged in heaps on square +pieces of blue paper, by the side of Russian and +Turkish cigarettes.<a name="Pg_1-38" id="Pg_1-38"></a></p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-04.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-04_th.jpg" alt="Persian Wrestling." title="Persian Wrestling." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Wrestling.</p> + +<p>And now for the Resht Hotels. Here is an +Armenian hotel—European style. From the +balcony signs and gesticulations and shouts in +English, French, and Russian endeavour to +attract the passer-by—a youth even rushes to the +horses and stops them in order to induce the +traveller to alight and put up at the hostelry; but +after a long discussion, on we go, and slowly +wind our way through the intricate streets +crowded with men and women and children—all +grumbling and making some remark as one +goes by. At one point a circle of people +squatting in the middle of a road round a pile of +water-melons, at huge slices of which they each +bit lustily, kept us waiting some time, till they +moved themselves and their melons out of the +way for the carriage to pass. Further on a +soldier or two in rags lay sleeping flat on the +shady side of the road, with his pipe (kalian) +and his sword lying by his side. Boys were +riding wildly on donkeys and frightened women +scrambled away or flattened themselves against +the side walls of the street, while the hubs of the +wheels shaved and greased their ample black silk +or cotton trousers made in the shape of sacks, and +the horses' hoofs splashed them all over with +mud. The women's faces were covered with a +white cloth reaching down to the waist. Here, +too, as in China, the double basket arrangement +on a long pole swung across the shoulders was +much used for conveying loads of fruit and +vegetables on men's shoulders;—but least +picturesque of all were the well-to-do people<a name="Pg_1-39" id="Pg_1-39"></a> +of the strong sex, in short frock-coats pleated +all over in the skirt.</p> + +<p>One gets a glimpse of a picturesque blue-tiled +pagoda-like roof with a cylindrical column upon +it, and at last we emerge into a large quadrangular +square, with European buildings to the west side.</p> + +<p>A little further the British flag flies gaily in +the wind above H.M.'s Consulate. Then we +come upon a larger building, the Palace of the +Governor, who, to save himself the trouble and +expense of having sentries at the entrances, +had life-size representations of soldiers with +drawn swords painted on the wall. They are +not all represented wearing the same uniform, as +one would expect with a guard of that kind, but +for variety's sake some have red coats, with plenty +of gold braiding on them, and blue trousers, +the others blue coats and red trousers. +One could not honestly call the building a +beautiful one, but in its unrestored condition it is +quite picturesque and quaint. It possesses a +spacious verandah painted bright blue, and two +windows at each side with elaborate ornamentations +similarly coloured red and blue. A red-bordered +white flag with the national lion in the +centre floats over the Palace, and an elaborate +castellated archway, with a repetition of the +Persian Lion on either side, stands in front of the +main entrance in the square of the Palace. So +also do four useful kerosene lamp-posts. The +telegraph office is to the right of the Palace with +a pretty garden in front of it.</p> + +<p>The most important political personage living<a name="Pg_1-40" id="Pg_1-40"></a> +in Resht is His Excellency Salare Afkham, +called Mirza Fathollah Khan, one of the richest +men in Persia, who has a yearly income of some +twenty thousand pounds sterling. He owns a +huge house and a great deal of land round Resht, +and is much respected for his talent and kindly +manner. He was formerly Minister of the +Customs and Posts of all Persia, and his chest is +a blaze of Russian, Turkish and Persian +decorations of the highest class, bestowed upon +him by the various Sovereigns in recognition of +his good work. He has for private secretary Abal +Kassem Khan, the son of the best known of +modern Persian poets, Chams-echoéra, and +himself a very able man who has travelled all +over Asia, Turkestan and Europe.</p> + +<p>Persia is a country of disappointments. There +is a general belief that the Swiss are splendid +hotel-keepers. Let me give you my experience +of the hotel at Resht kept by a Swiss.</p> + +<p>"Can this be the Swiss hotel?" I queried to +myself, as the driver pulled up in front of an +appallingly dirty flight of steps. There seemed +to be no one about, and after going through the +greater part of the building, I eventually came +across a semi-starved Persian servant, who +assured me that it was. The proprietor, when +found, received me with an air of condescension +that was entertaining. He led me to a room +which he said was the best in the house. On +inspection, the others, I agreed with him, were +decidedly not better. The hotel had twelve bedrooms +and they were all disgustingly filthy. True<a name="Pg_1-41" id="Pg_1-41"></a> +enough, each bedroom had more beds in it than +one really needed, two or even three in each +bedroom, but a <i>coup-d'œil</i> was sufficient to assure +one's self that it was out of the question to make +use of any of them. I counted four different +coloured hairs, of disproportionate lengths and +texture, on one bed-pillow in my room, leaving +little doubt that no less than four people had +laid their heads on that pillow before; and the +pillow of the other bed was so black with dirt +that I should imagine at least a dozen consecutive +occupants of that couch would be a low +estimate indeed. As for the sheets, blankets, and +towels, we had better draw a veil. I therefore +preferred to spread my own bedding on the floor, +and slept there. The hotel boasted of three large +dining-rooms in which a few moth-eaten stuffed +birds and a case or two of mutilated butterflies, +a couple of German oleographs, which set one's +teeth on edge, and dusty, stamped cotton hangings +formed the entire decoration.</p> + +<p>To give one an appetite—which one never +lost as long as one stayed there—one was informed +before dinner that the proprietor was +formerly the Shah's cook. After dinner one felt +very, very sorry for the poor Shah, and more so +for one's self, for having put up at the hotel. But +there was no other place in Resht, and I stuck +to my decision that I would never get angry, so +I stood all patiently. The next day I would +start for Teheran.</p> + +<p>One talks of Persian extortion, but it is nothing +to the example offered to the natives by Euro<a name="Pg_1-42" id="Pg_1-42"></a>peans +in Persia. The charges at the hotel were +exorbitant. One paid as much per day as one +would at the very first hotel in London, New +York, or Paris, such as the Carlton, the Waldorf, +or Ritz. Only here one got absolutely nothing +for it except very likely an infectious disease, as +I did. In walking bare-footed on the filthy matting, +while taking my bath, some invisible germ +bored its way into the sole of my right foot and +caused me a good deal of trouble for several +weeks after. Animal life in all its varieties was +plentiful in all the rooms.</p> + +<p>Previous to starting on the long drive to the +capital I had to get some meat cooked for use on +the road, but it was so putrid that even when I +flung it to a famished pariah dog he refused to eat +it. And all this, mind you, was inexcusable, because +excellent meat, chickens, eggs, vegetables, +and fruit, can be purchased in Resht for a mere +song, the average price of a good chicken, for instance, +being about 5<i>d.</i> to 10<i>d.</i>, a whole sheep costing +some eight or ten shillings. I think it is only +right that this man should be exposed, so as to put +other travellers on their guard, not so much for +his overcharges, for when travelling one does not +mind over-paying if one is properly treated, but +for his impudence in furnishing provisions that +even a dog would not eat. Had it not been that +I had other provisions with me I should have +fared very badly on the long drive to Teheran.</p> + +<p>It may interest future travellers to know that +the building where the hotel was at the time of +my visit, August, 1901, has now been taken over<a name="Pg_1-43" id="Pg_1-43"></a> +for five years by the Russian Bank in order to +open a branch of their business in Resht, and +that the hotel itself, I believe, has now shifted +to even less palatial quarters!</p> + +<p>The Imperial Bank of Persia has for some +years had a branch in Resht, and until 1901 was +the only banking establishment in the town.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-44" id="Pg_1-44"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_V" id="V1-CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Resht—Impostors—A visit to the Head Mullah—Quaint notions—Arrangements +for the drive to Teheran—The Russian +concession of the Teheran road—The stormy Caspian and +unsafe harbours—The great Menzil bridge—A detour in +the road—Capital employed in the construction of the road—Mistaken +English notions of Russia—Theory and practice—High +tolls—Exorbitant fares—A speculator's offer refused—Development +of the road.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Resht</span> is an odious place in every way. It is, +as it were, the "Port Said" of Persia, for here +the scum of Armenia, of Southern Russia, and of +Turkestan, stagnates, unable to proceed on the +long and expensive journey to Teheran. One +cannot go out for a walk without being accosted +by any number of impostors, often in European +clothes, who cling like leeches and proceed to try +to interest you in more or less plausible swindles. +One meets a great many people, too, who are on +the look out for a "lift" in one's carriage to the +Persian capital.</p> + +<p>I paid quite an interesting visit to a near +relation of the Shah's, who was the guest of the +local Head Mullah. The approach to the +Mullah's palace was not attractive. I was conveyed +through narrow passages, much out of<a name="Pg_1-45" id="Pg_1-45"></a> +repair, until we arrived in front of a staircase +at the foot of which lay in a row, and in pairs, +shoes of all sizes, prices, and ages, patiently +waiting for their respective owners inside the +house. A great many people were outside in +the courtyard, some squatting down and smoking +a kalian, which was passed round after a puff or +two from one person to the other, care being +taken by the last smoker to wipe the mouthpiece +with the palm of his hand before handing it to +his neighbour. Others loitered about and conversed +in a low tone of voice.</p> + +<p>A Mullah received me at the bottom of the +staircase and led me up stairs to a large European-looking +room, with glass windows, cane chairs, +and Austrian glass candelabras. There were a +number of Mullahs in their long black robes, +white or green sashes, and large turbans, sitting +round the room in a semicircle, and in the +centre sat the high Mullah with the young +prince by his side. They all rose when I entered, +and I was greeted in a dignified yet very +friendly manner. A chair was given me next to +the high Mullah, and the usual questions about +one's family, the vicissitudes of one's journey, +one's age, one's plans, the accounts of what one +had seen in other countries, were duly gone +through.</p> + +<p>It was rather curious to notice the interest +displayed by the high Mullah in our South +African war. He seemed anxious to know +whether it was over yet, or when it would be +over. Also, how was it that a big nation like<a name="Pg_1-46" id="Pg_1-46"></a> +Great Britain could not conquer a small nation +like the Boers.</p> + +<p>"It is easier for an elephant to kill another +elephant," I replied, "than for him to squash a +mosquito."</p> + +<p>"Do you not think," said the Mullah, "that +England is now an old nation, tired and worn—too +old to fight? Nations are like individuals. +They can fight in youth—they must rest in old +age. She has lived in glory and luxury too long. +Glory and luxury make nations weak. Persia is +an example."</p> + +<p>"Yes, there is much truth in your sayings. +We are tired and worn. We have been and are +still fast asleep in consequence. But maybe the +day will come when we shall wake up much +refreshed. We are old enough to learn, but not +to die yet."</p> + +<p>He was sorry that England was in trouble.</p> + +<p>Tea, or rather sugar with some drops of tea +on it was passed, in tiny little glasses with +miniature perforated tin spoons. Then another +cross-examination.</p> + +<p>"Do you drink spirits and wine?"</p> + +<p>"No."</p> + +<p>"Do you smoke?"</p> + +<p>"No."</p> + +<p>"You would make a good Mussulman."</p> + +<p>"Possibly, but not probably."</p> + +<p>"In your travels do you find the people generally +good or bad?"</p> + +<p>"Taking things all round, in their badness, I +find the people usually pretty good."<a name="Pg_1-47" id="Pg_1-47"></a></p> + +<p>"How much does your King give you to go +about seeing foreign countries?"</p> + +<p>"The King gives me nothing. I go at my +own expense."</p> + +<p>This statement seemed to take their breath +away. It was bad enough for a man to be +sent—for a consideration—by his own Government +to a strange land, but to pay for the +journey one's self, why! it seemed to them too +preposterous for words. They had quite an +excited discussion about it among themselves, +the Persian idea being that every man must +sponge upon the Government to the utmost +extent.</p> + +<p>The young Prince hoped that I would travel +as his guest in his carriage to Teheran. Unfortunately, +however, I had made other arrangements, +and was unable to accept his invitation.</p> + +<p>My visit ended with renewed salaams and good +wishes on their part for my welfare on the long +journey I was about to undertake. I noticed +that, with the exception of the Prince, who +shook my hand warmly, the Mullahs bowed +over and over again, but did not touch my hand.</p> + +<p>Now for the business visit at the post station. +After a good deal of talk and an unlimited consumption +of tea, it had been arranged that a +landau with four post horses to be changed every +six farsakhs, at each post station, and a <i>fourgon</i>—a +large van without springs, also with four +horses,—for luggage, should convey me to +Teheran. So little luggage is allowed inside +one's carriage that an additional <i>fourgon</i> is<a name="Pg_1-48" id="Pg_1-48"></a> +nearly always required. One is told that large +packages can be forwarded at a small cost by +the postal service, and that they will reach +Teheran soon after the passengers, but unhappy +is the person that tries the rash experiment. +There is nothing to guarantee him that he will +ever see his luggage again. In Persia, a golden +rule while travelling, that may involve some loss +of time but will avoid endless trouble and worry +in the end, is never to let one's luggage go out +of sight. One is told that the new Teheran +road is a Russian enterprise, and therefore quite +reliable, and so it is, but not so the company of +transportation, which is in the hands of natives, +the firm of Messrs. Bagheroff Brothers, which +is merely subsidized by the Russian Road +Company.</p> + +<p>As every one knows, in 1893 the Russians +obtained a concession to construct a carriage-road +from Piri-Bazaar <i>via</i> Resht to Kasvin, an +extension to Hamadan, and the purchase of the +road from Kasvin to Teheran, which was already +in existence. Nominally the concession was not +granted to the Russian Government itself—as is +generally believed in England—but to a private +company—the "Compagnie d'Assurance et de +Transport en Perse," which, nevertheless, is a +mere off-shoot of Government enterprise and +is backed by the Russian Government to no +mean degree. The Company's headquarters are +in Moscow, and in Persia the chief office is at +Kasvin.</p> + +<p>Here it may be well to add that if this im<a name="Pg_1-49" id="Pg_1-49"></a>portant +concession slipped out of our hands we +have only ourselves to blame. We can in no +way accuse the Russians of taking advantage of +us, but can only admire them for knowing how +to take advantage of a good opportunity. We +had the opportunity first; it was offered us in +the first instance by Persia which needed a loan +of a paltry sixty million francs, or a little over +two million pounds sterling. The concession +was offered as a guarantee for the loan, but we, +as usual, temporised and thought it over and +argued—especially the people who did not know +what they were arguing about—and eventually +absolutely refused to have anything to do with +the scheme. The Russians had the next offer +and jumped at it, as was natural in people well +versed in Persian affairs, and well able to foresee +the enormous possibilities of such an undertaking.</p> + +<p>It was, beyond doubt, from the very beginning—except +to people absolutely ignorant and +mentally blind—that the concession, apart from +its political importance, was a most excellent +financial investment. Not only would the road +be most useful for the transit of Russian goods +to the capital of Persia, and from there all over the +country, but for military purposes it would prove +invaluable. Maybe its use in the latter capacity +will be shown sooner than we in England think.</p> + +<p>Of course, to complete the scheme the landing +at Enzeli must still be improved, so that small +ships may enter in safety and land passengers and +goods each journey without the unpleasant alternative, +which we have seen, of having to return<a name="Pg_1-50" id="Pg_1-50"></a> +to one's point of departure and begin again, two, +or three, or even four times. One gentleman I +met in Persia told me that on one occasion the +journey from Baku to Enzeli—thirty-six hours—occupied +him the space of twenty-six days!</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-05.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-05_th.jpg" alt="Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran." title="Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran.</p> + +<p>The Caspian is stormy the greater part of the +year, the water shallow, no protection from the +wind exists on any side, and wrecks, considering +the small amount of navigation on that sea, are +extremely frequent. As we have seen, there are +not more than six feet of water on the bar at +Enzeli, but with a jetty which could be built at +no very considerable expense (as it probably will +be some day) and a dredger kept constantly at +work, Enzeli could become quite a possible harbour, +and the dangers of long delays and the +present risks that await passengers and goods, +if not absolutely avoided, would at least be +minimised to an almost insignificant degree. +The navigation of the lagoon and stream presents +no difficulty, and the Russians have already obtained +the right to widen the mouth of the +Murd-ap at Enzeli, in conjunction with the +concession of the Piri-Bazaar-Teheran road.</p> + +<p>The road was very easy to make, being mostly +over flat country and rising to no great elevation, +5,000 feet being the highest point. It follows +the old caravan track nearly all the way, the only +important detour made by the new road being +between Paichinar and Kasvin, to avoid the high +Kharzan or Kiajan pass—7,500 feet—over which +the old track went.</p> + +<p>Considering the nature of the country it crosses,<a name="Pg_1-51" id="Pg_1-51"></a> +the new road is a good one and is well kept. +Three large bridges and fifty-eight small ones +have been spanned across streams and ravines, +the longest being the bridge at Menzil, 142 +yards long.</p> + +<p>From Resht, <i>via</i> Deschambe Bazaar, to Kudum +the road strikes due south across country. From +Kudum (altitude, 292 feet) to Rudbar (665 feet) +the road is practically along the old track on the +north-west bank of the Kizil Uzen River, which, +from its source flows first in a south-easterly direction, +and then turns at Menzil almost at a right +angle towards the north-east, changing its name +into Sefid Rud (the White River). Some miles +after passing Rudbar, the river has to be crossed +by the great bridge, to reach Menzil, which lies +on the opposite side of the stream.</p> + +<p>From Menzil to Kasvin the Russian engineers +had slightly more trouble in constructing the +road. A good deal of blasting had to be done +to make the road sufficiently broad for wheeled +traffic; then came the important detour, as we +have seen, from Paichinar to Kasvin, so that +practically the portion of the road from Menzil +to Kasvin is a new road altogether, <i>via</i> Mala Ali +and Kuhim, the old track being met again at the +village of Agha Baba.</p> + +<p>The width of the road averages twenty-one +feet. In difficult places, such as along ravines, +or where the road had to be cut into the rock, +it is naturally less wide, but nowhere under fourteen +feet. The gradient averages 1—20 to 1—24. +At a very few points, however, it is as steep as<a name="Pg_1-52" id="Pg_1-52"></a> +1 in 15. If the hill portion of the road is excepted, +where, being in zig-zag, it has very sharp +angles, a light railway could be laid upon it in a +surprisingly short time and at no considerable +expense, the ground having been made very hard +nearly all along the road.</p> + +<p>The capital of £340,000 employed in the +construction of the road was subscribed in the +following manner: 1,000 shares of 1,000 rubles +each, or 1,000,000 rubles original capital subscribed +in Moscow; 1,000,000 rubles debentures +taken by the Russian Government, and a further +500,000 rubles on condition that 700,000 rubles +additional capital were subscribed, which was at +once done principally by the original shareholders.</p> + +<p>The speculation had from the very beginning +a prospect of being very successful, even merely +considered as a trade route—a prospect which +the British Government, capitalist, and merchant +did not seem to grasp, but which was fully +appreciated by the quicker and more far-seeing +Russian official and trader. Any fair-minded +person cannot help admiring the Russian Government +for the insight, enterprise and sound statesmanship +with which it lost no time in supporting +the scheme (discarded by us as worthless), +and this it did, not by empty-winded, pompous +speeches and temporising promises, to which we +have so long been accustomed, but by supplying +capital in hard cash, for the double purpose of +enhancing to its fullest extent Russian trade +and of gaining the strategic advantages of such<a name="Pg_1-53" id="Pg_1-53"></a> +an enterprise, which are too palpable to be +referred to again.</p> + +<p>So it was, that while we in England relied on +the everlasting and ever-idiotic notion that +Russia would never have the means to take up +the loan, being—as we are told—a bankrupt +country with no resources, and a Government +with no credit and no cash,—that we found +ourselves left (and laughed at), having lost an +opportunity which will never present itself again, +and which will eventually cost us the loss of +Northern Persia, if not of the whole of Persia.</p> + +<p>Russia—it is only too natural—having once +set her foot, or even both feet, on Persian +soil, now tries to keep out other nations—which, +owing to her geographical position, she can do +with no effort and no trouble—in order to +enhance her youthful but solid and fast-growing +industries and trade.</p> + +<p>In the case of the Teheran road, the only one, +it must be remembered, leading with any safety +to the Persian capital, it is theoretically open to +all nations. Practically, Russian goods alone +have a chance of being conveyed by this route, +owing to the prohibitive Customs duties exacted +in Russia on foreign goods in transit for Persia. +Russia is already indirectly reaping great profits +through this law, especially on machinery and +heavy goods that have no option and must be +transported by this road. There is no other way +by which they can reach Teheran on wheels. +But the chief and more direct profit of the +enterprise itself is derived from the high tolls<a name="Pg_1-54" id="Pg_1-54"></a> +which the Russian Company, with the authorisation +of the Persian Government, has established on +the road traffic, in order to reimburse the capital +paid out and interest to shareholders.</p> + +<p>The road tolls are paid at Resht (and at intermediate +stations if travellers do not start from +Resht), and amount to 4 krans == 1<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> for each +pack animal, whether it be a camel, a horse, a +mule, or a donkey.</p> + +<p>A post-carriage with four horses (the usual +conveyance hired between Resht and Teheran) +pays a toll of no less than 17<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i></p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Road Tolls"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>s.</i></td><td align='right'><i>d.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A carriage with 3 horses</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " 2 "</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>4</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " 1 horse</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='3'>A <i>fourgon</i>, or luggage van, 4 horses, £1 0<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Passengers are charged extra and above these +tolls, so that a landau or a victoria, for instance, +actually pays £1 8<i>s.</i> for the right of using the +road, and a <i>fourgon</i> with one's servants, as +much as £1 13<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i></p> + +<p>The fares for the hire of the conveyance +are very high:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Conveyance fares"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>£</td><td align='right'><i>s.</i></td><td align='right'><i>d.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Landau</td><td align='right'>11</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Victoria</td><td align='right'>10</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coupé</td><td align='right'>11</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fourgon</td><td align='right'>10</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>As only 72 lbs. of personal luggage are +allowed in the landau or 65 lbs. in other +carriages, and this weight must be in small +packages, one is compelled to hire a second<a name="Pg_1-55" id="Pg_1-55"></a> +conveyance, a <i>fourgon</i>, which can carry 650 lbs. +Every pound exceeding these weights is charged +for at the rate of two shillings for every 13½ lbs. +of luggage. The luggage is weighed with +great accuracy before starting from Resht, +and on arrival in Teheran. Care is taken to +exact every half-penny to which the company +is entitled on luggage fares, and much inconvenience +and delay is caused by the Persian +officials at the scales. It is advisable for the +traveller to be present when the luggage is +weighed, to prevent fraud.</p> + +<p>It may be noticed that to travel the 200 +miles, the distance from Resht to Teheran, +the cost, without counting incidental expenses, +tips (amounting to some £3 or more), etc.,</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Cost of Travel from Resht to teheran"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td> <td align='right'>£</td><td align='right'><i>s.</i></td> <td align='right'><i>d.</i></td> <td align='left'> </td> <td align='right'>£</td> <td align='right'><i>s.</i></td> <td align='right'><i>d.</i></td> <td align='right'> </td><td align='right'>£</td><td align='right'><i>s.</i></td><td align='right'><i>d.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Landau,</td> <td align='right'>11</td> <td align='right'>16</td> <td align='right'>7</td> <td align='left'>plus toll,</td><td align='right'>1</td> <td align='right'>8</td> <td align='right'>0</td> <td align='right'> </td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fourgon,</td><td align='right'>10</td> <td align='right'>0</td> <td align='right'>10</td> <td align='left'>plus toll,</td><td align='right'>1</td> <td align='right'>13</td> <td align='right'>2</td> <td align='right'> </td><td align='right'>11</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='9'> </td> <td align='right' colspan='3'>——————</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='9'>Total</td><td align='right'>£24</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>which is somewhat high for a journey of only +72 to 80 hours.</p> + +<p>This strikes one all the more when one +compares it with the journey of several thousand +miles in the greatest of luxury from London +across Holland, Germany, Russia, and the +Caspian to Enzeli, which can be covered easily +by three five-pound notes.</p> + +<p>As every one knows, the road from Piri-Bazaar +to Kasvin and Teheran was opened for +wheel traffic in January 1899.<a name="Pg_1-56" id="Pg_1-56"></a></p> + +<p>I am told that in 1899—before the road was +completed—a Persian speculator offered the sum +of £200 a day to be paid in cash every evening, +for the contract of the tolls. The offer was +most emphatically refused, as the daily tolls even +at that time amounted to between £270 and +£300.</p> + +<p>In these last three years the road has developed +in a most astounding manner, and the receipts, +besides being now considerably greater, are +constantly increasing. The Russian shareholders +and Government can indeed fairly congratulate +themselves on the happy success which their +well-thought-out investment has fairly won +them.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-57" id="Pg_1-57"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_VI" id="V1-CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A journey by landau and four—Picturesque coachman—Tolls—Intense +moisture—Luxuriant vegetation—Deschambe +Bazaar—The silk industry of Ghilan—The cultivation and +export of rice—The Governor's energy—Agriculture and +Allah—The water question—The coachman's backshish—The +White River—Olive groves—Halting places on the +road—The effects of hallucination—Princes abundant.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> have seen how the road was made. +Now let us travel on it in the hired landau +and four horses driven by a wild-looking coachman, +whose locks of jet-black hair protrude on +either side of his clean-shaven neck, and match +in colour his black astrakan, spherical, brimless +headgear. Like all good Persians, he has a +much pleated frockcoat that once was black +and is now of various shades of green. Over +it at the waist he displays a most elaborate +silver belt, and yet another belt of leather +with a profusion of cartridges stuck in it and +a revolver.</p> + +<p>Why he did not run over half-a-dozen people +or more as we galloped through the narrow +streets of Resht town is incomprehensible to me, +for the outside horses almost shaved the walls<a name="Pg_1-58" id="Pg_1-58"></a> +on both sides, and the splash-boards of the old +landau ditto.</p> + +<p>That he did not speaks volumes for the +flexibility and suppleness of Persian men, +women and children, of whom, stuck tight +against the walls in order to escape being +trampled upon or crushed to death, one got +mere glimpses, at the speed one went.</p> + +<p>The corners of the streets, too, bore ample +testimony to the inaccuracy of drivers in gauging +distances, and so did the hubs and splash-boards +of the post-carriages, all twisted and staved in +by repeated collisions.</p> + +<p>It is with great gusto on the part of the +drivers, but with a certain amount of alarm +on the part of the passenger, that one's carriage +chips off corner after corner of the road as one +turns them, and one gets to thank Providence +for making houses in Persia of easily-powdered +mud instead of solid stone or bricks.</p> + +<p>One's heart gets lighter when we emerge +into the more sparsely inhabited districts where +fields and heavy vegetation line the road, now +very wide and more or less straight. Here the +speed is greatly increased, the coachman making +ample use of a long stock whip. In Persia +one always travels full gallop.</p> + +<p>After not very long we pull up to disburse +the road toll at a wayside collecting house. +There are a great many caravans waiting, +camels, mules, donkeys, horsemen, <i>fourgons</i>, +whose owners are busy counting hard silver +krans in little piles of 10 krans each—a<a name="Pg_1-59" id="Pg_1-59"></a> +<i>toman</i>, equivalent to a dollar,—without which +payment they cannot proceed. Post carriages +have precedence over everybody, and we are +served at once. A receipt is duly given for the +money paid, and we are off again. The coachman +is the cause of a good deal of anxiety, +for on the chance of a handsome backshish he +has indulged in copious advance libations of +rum or votka, or both, the vapours of which are +blown by the wind into my face each time that +he turns round and breathes or speaks. That +this was a case of the horses leading the coachman +and not of a man driving the horses, I have +personally not the shade of a doubt, for the +wretch, instead of minding his horses, hung +backwards, the whole way, from the high box, +yelling, I do not know what, at the top of his +voice, and making significant gestures that he +was still thirsty. Coachmen of all countries +invariably are.</p> + +<p>We ran full speed into caravans of donkeys, +scattering them all over the place; we caused +flocks of frightened sheep to stampede in all +directions, and only strings of imperturbable +camels succeeded in arresting our reckless flight, +for they simply would not move out of the way. +Every now and then I snatched a furtive glance +at the scenery.</p> + +<p>The moisture of the climate is so great and +the heat so intense, that the vegetation of the +whole of Ghilan province is luxuriant,—but not +picturesque, mind you. There is such a superabundance +of vegetation, the plants so crammed<a name="Pg_1-60" id="Pg_1-60"></a> +together, one on the top of the other, as it were, +all untidy, fat with moisture, and of such deep, +coarse, blackish-green tones that they give the +scenery a heavy leaden appearance instead of the +charming beauty of more delicate tints of less +tropical vegetation.</p> + +<p>We go through Deschambe Bazaar, a place +noted for its fairs.</p> + +<p>Here you have high hedges of reeds and hopelessly +entangled shrubs; there your eyes are +rested on big stretches of agriculture,—Indian +corn, endless paddy fields of rice and cotton, long +rows of mulberry trees to feed silkworms upon +their leaves. Silk is even to-day one of the +chief industries of Ghilan. Its excellent quality +was at one time the pride of the province. The +export trade of dried cocoons has been particularly +flourishing of late, and although prices +and the exchanges have fluctuated, the average +price obtained for them in Resht when fresh +was from 20½ krans to 22½ krans (the kran being +equivalent to about fivepence).</p> + +<p>The cocoon trade had until recently been +almost entirely in the hands of Armenian, French +and Italian buyers in Resht, but now many +Persian merchants have begun to export bales of +cocoons direct to Marseilles and Milan, the two +chief markets for silk, an export duty of 5 per +cent. on their value being imposed on them by +the Persian Government. The cocoons are +made to travel by the shortest routes, <i>via</i> the +Caspian, Baku, Batum, and the Black Sea.</p> + +<p>The year 1900 seems to have been an excep<a name="Pg_1-61" id="Pg_1-61"></a>tionally +good year for the production and export +of cocoons. The eggs for the production of +silkworms are chiefly imported by Levantines +from Asia Minor (Gimlek and Brussa), and also +in small quantities from France. According to +the report of Mr. Churchill, Acting-Consul at +Resht, the quantity of cocoons exported during +that year showed an increase of some 436,800 lbs. +above the quantity exported the previous year +(1899); and a comparison between the quantity +exported in 1893 and 1900 will show at a glance +the enormous apparent increase in the export of +dried cocoons from Ghilan.</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Export of cocoons"> +<tr><td align='right'>1893</td><td align='right'>76,160</td><td align='left'>lbs.</td><td align='left'>Value</td><td align='right'>£6,475</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>1900</td><td align='right'>1,615,488</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>£150,265</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>It must, however, be remembered that the +value given for 1893 may be very incorrect.</p> + +<p>Large meadows with cattle grazing upon +them; wheat fields, vegetables of all sorts, vineyards, +all pass before my eyes as in a kaleidoscope. +A fine country indeed for farmers. Plenty of +water—even too much of it,—wood in abundance +within a stone's throw.</p> + +<p>Next to the silk worms, rice must occupy our +attention, being the staple food of the natives of +Ghilan and constituting one of the principal +articles of export from that province.</p> + +<p>The cultivation and the export of rice from +Ghilan have in the last thirty years become very +important, and will no doubt be more so in the +near future, when the mass of jungle and marshes<a name="Pg_1-62" id="Pg_1-62"></a> +will be cleared and converted into cultivable +land. The Governor-General of Resht is showing +great energy in the right direction by cutting +new roads and repairing old ones on all sides, +which ought to be of great benefit to the country.</p> + +<p>In Persia, remember, it is not easy to learn +anything accurately. And as for Persian statistics, +unwise is the man who attaches any importance +to them. Much as I would like to quote +statistics, I cannot refrain from thinking that no +statistics are a hundredfold better than slip-shod, +haphazard, inaccurate ones. And this rule I +must certainly apply to the export of rice from +Ghilan to Europe, principally Russia, during +1900, and will limit myself to general remarks.</p> + +<p>Extensive tracts of country have been cleared +of reeds and useless vegetation, and converted into +paddy fields, the natives irrigating the country +in a primitive fashion.</p> + +<p>It is nature that is mostly responsible if the +crops are not ruined year after year, the thoughtless +inhabitants, with their natural laziness, doing +little more than praying Allah to give them +plenty of rain, instead of employing the more +practical if more laborious expedient of artificially +irrigating their country in some efficient manner, +which they could easily do from the streams +close at hand. Perhaps, in addition to this, the +fact that water—except rain-water—has ever to +be purchased in Persia, may also account to a +certain extent for the inability to afford paying +for it. In 1899, for instance, rain failed to come +and the crops were insufficient even for local<a name="Pg_1-63" id="Pg_1-63"></a> +consumption, which caused the population a +good deal of suffering. But 1900, fortunately, +surpassed all expectations, and was an excellent +year for rice as well as cocoons.</p> + +<p>We go through thickly-wooded country, then +through a handsome forest, with wild boars +feeding peacefully a few yards from the road. +About every six farsakhs—or twenty-four +miles—the horses of the carriage, and those of +the fourgon following closely behind, are changed +at the post-stations, as well as the driver, who +leaves us, after carefully removing his saddle from +the box and the harness of the horses. He +has to ride back to his point of departure with +his horses. He expects a present of two krans,—or +more if he can get it—and so does +the driver of the fourgon. Two krans is the +recognised tip for each driver, and as one gets +some sixteen or seventeen for each vehicle,—thirty-two +or thirty-four if you have two conveyances,—between +Resht and Teheran, one +finds it quite a sufficient drain on one's +exchequer.</p> + +<p>As one gets towards Kudum, where one +strikes the Sefid River, we begin to rise and the +country gets more hilly and arid. We gradually +leave behind the oppressive dampness, which +suggests miasma and fever, and begin to breathe +air which, though very hot, is drier and purer. +We have risen 262 feet at Kudum from 77 feet, +the altitude of Resht, and as we travel now in a +south-south-west direction, following the stream +upwards, we keep getting higher, the elevation at<a name="Pg_1-64" id="Pg_1-64"></a> +Rustamabad being already 630 feet. We leave +behind the undulating ground, covered with +thick forests, and come to barren hills, that get +more and more important as we go on. We +might almost say that the country is becoming +quite mountainous, with a few shrubs here and +there and scenery of moderate beauty, (for +any one accustomed to greater mountains), but +quite "wildly beautiful" for the ordinary traveller. +We then get to the region of the grey +olive groves, the trees with their contorted, +thickly-set branches and pointed leaves. What +becomes of the olives? They are exported to +Europe,—a flourishing trade, I am told.</p> + +<p>One bumps a great deal in the carriage, for +the springs are not "of the best," and are hidden +in rope bandages to keep them from falling apart. +The road, too, is not as yet like a billiard table. +The doors of the landau rattle continuously, the +metal fastenings having long disappeared, and +being replaced by bits of string.</p> + +<p>One travels incessantly, baked in the sun by +day and chilled by the cold winds at night, +trying to get a little sleep with one's head +dangling over the side of the carriage, one's legs +cramped, and all one's bones aching. But this +is preferable to stopping at any of the halting-places +on the road, whether Russian or Persian, +which are filthy beyond words, and where one is +mercilessly swindled. Should one, however, be +compelled to stop anywhere it is preferable to go +to a thoroughly Persian place, where one meets at +least with more courtesy, and where one is imposed<a name="Pg_1-65" id="Pg_1-65"></a> +upon in a more modest and less aggressive way +than at the Russian places. It must, however, +be stated that the Russian places are usually in +charge of over-zealous Persians, or else in the +hands of inferior Russian subjects, who try to +make all they can out of their exile in the lonely +stations.</p> + +<p>I occasionally halted for a glass of tea at the +Persian Khafe-Khanas, and in one of them a very +amusing incident happened, showing the serious +effects that hallucination may produce on a +weak-minded person.</p> + +<p>I had got off the carriage and had carried into +the khafe-khana my camera, and also my +revolver in its leather case which had been lying +on the seat of the carriage. At my previous +halt, having neglected this precaution, my +camera had been tampered with by the natives, +the lenses had been removed, and the eighteen +plates most of them already with pictures on +them—that were inside, exposed to the light and +thrown about, with their slides, in the sand. So to +avoid a repetition of the occurrence, and to prevent +a probable accident, I brought all into the khafe-<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'kana'">khana</ins> +room and deposited the lot on the raised +mud portion along the wall, seating myself next +to my property. I ordered tea, and the attendant, +with many salaams, explained that his +fire had gone out, but that if I would wait a few +minutes he would make me some fresh <i>chah</i>. I +consented. He inquired whether the revolver +was loaded, and I said it was. He proceeded to +the further end of the room, where, turning his<a name="Pg_1-66" id="Pg_1-66"></a> +back to me, he began to blow upon the fire, and +I, being very thirsty, sent another man to my +fourgon to bring me a bottle of soda-water. The +imprisoned gases of the soda, which had been lying +for the whole day in the hot sun, had so expanded +that when I removed the wire the cork +went off with a loud report and unfortunately hit +the man in the shoulder blade. By association +of ideas he made so certain in his mind that it +was the revolver that had gone off that he +absolutely collapsed in a semi-faint, under the +belief that he had been badly shot. He moaned +and groaned, trying to reach with his hand what +he thought was the wounded spot, and called for +his son as he felt he was about to die. We supported +him, and gave him some water and reassured +him, but he had turned as pale as death.</p> + +<p>"What have I done to you that you kill me?" +he moaned pitifully.</p> + +<p>"But, good man, you have no blood flowing,—look!"</p> + +<p>A languid, hopeless glance at the ground, +where he had fallen and sure enough, he could +find no blood. He tried to see the wound, but +his head could not revolve to a sufficiently wide +arc of a circle to see his shoulder-blade, so in due +haste we removed his coat and waistcoat and +shirt, and after slow, but careful, keen examination, +he discovered that not only there were +no marks of flowing blood, but no trace whatever +of a bullet hole in any of his garments. Even +then he was not certain, and two small mirrors +were sent for, which, by the aid of a sym<a name="Pg_1-67" id="Pg_1-67"></a>pathising +friend, he got at proper angles minutely +to survey his whole back.</p> + +<p>He eventually recovered, and was able to +proceed with the brewing of tea, which he +served with terribly trembling hand on the +rattling saucer under the tiny little glass.</p> + +<p>"It was a very narrow escape from death, +sahib," he said in a wavering voice—"for it +might have been the revolver."</p> + +<p>There is nothing like backshish in Persia to +heal all wounds, whether real or otherwise, and +he duly received an extra handsome one.</p> + +<p>In Persia the traveller is particularly struck by +the number of Princes one encounters on the +road. This is to a certain extent to be accounted +for by the fact that the word <i>khan</i> which follows +a great many Persian names has been translated, +mainly by flattering French authors, into the +majestic but incorrect word "Prince." In many +cases the suffix of <i>khan</i> is an equivalent of Lord, +but in most cases it is no more than our nominal +"Esquire."</p> + +<p>I met on the road two fellows, one old and +very dignified; the other young, and who spoke +a little French. He informed me that they were +both Princes. He called his friend "<i>Monsieur +le Prince, mon ami</i>," and himself "<i>Monsieur le +Prince, moi!</i>" which was rather amusing. He +informed me that he was a high Customs official, +and displayed towards his fellow countrymen on +the road a great many qualities that revealed a +very mean native indeed.</p> + +<p>The elder one wore carpet slippers to which<a name="Pg_1-68" id="Pg_1-68"></a> +he had attached—I do not know how—an +enormous pair of golden spurs! He was now +returning from Russia. He was extremely +gentleman-like and seemed very much annoyed +at the behaviour of his companion. He begged +me to believe that not all men in Persia were +like his friend, and I quite agreed with him.</p> + +<p>We travelled a great portion of the road +together, and the old fellow was extremely civil. +He was very well informed on nearly all subjects, +and had belonged to the army. He pointed out +to me the important sights on the road, such as +Mount Janja (7,489 ft.) to the East.</p> + +<p>After passing Rudbar (665 ft.) the road is +mostly in narrow gorges between mountains. It +is rocky and arid, with hardly any vegetation. +The river has to be crossed by the new bridge, a +handsome and solid structure, and we arrive at +the village of Menjil or Menzil. The Russian +station-house is the most prominent structure. +Otherwise all is desert and barren. Grey and +warm reddish tints abound in the dried-up +landscape, and only a few stunted olive groves +relieve the scenery with some vegetable life.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-69" id="Pg_1-69"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_VII" id="V1-CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Menzil and the winds—The historical Alamut mountain—A +low plateau—Volcanic formation—Mol-Ali—A genuine case +of smallpox—Characteristic sitting posture—A caravan of +mules—Rugged country—The remains of a volcanic commotion—The +old track—Kasvin, the city of misfortunes—The +Governor's palace and palatial rest house—Earthquakes +and famine—<i>Kanats</i>, the marvellous aqueducts—How they +are made—Manufactures—Kasvin strategically.</p></div><p> </p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Perhaps</span> Menzil should be mentioned in connection +with the terrific winds which, coming +from the north-east and from the south, seem +to meet here, and blow with all their might at +all times of the year. The traveller is particularly +exposed to them directly above the river course +on crossing the bridge. Menzil is celebrated +for these winds, which are supposed to be the +worst, in all Persia, but unpleasant as they may +be to any one who has not experienced worse, +they are merely gentle breezes as compared, for +instance, with the wind storms of the Tibetan +plateau. To the east there is a very mountainous +region, the Biwarzin Yarak range, or +Kuse-rud, averaging from 6,000 to 7,000 ft.; +further north a peak of 7,850 ft., and south-west +of the Janja, 7,489 ft., the high Salambar, 11,290 +ft. On the historical Mt. Alamut the old state<a name="Pg_1-70" id="Pg_1-70"></a> +prisons were formerly to be found, but were +afterwards removed to Ardebil.</p> + +<p>From Menzil we have left the Sefid River +altogether, and we are now in a very mountainous +region, with a singular low plateau in the centre +of an extensive alluvial plain traversed by the +road. We cross the Shah Rud, or River of the +King, and at Paichinar, with its Russian post-house, +we have already reached an altitude of +1,800 ft. From this spot the road proceeds +through a narrow valley, through country rugged +and much broken up, distinctly volcanic and +quite picturesque. It is believed that coal is to +be found here.</p> + +<p>Perhaps one of the prettiest places we had +yet come to was Mol-Ali, a lovely shady spot +with veteran green trees all round. While the +horses were being changed I was asked by the +khafe-khana man to go and inspect a man who +was ill. The poor fellow was wrapped up in +many blankets and seemed to be suffering greatly. +He had very high fever and his was a genuine +case of smallpox. Next to him, quite unconcerned, +were a number of Persian travellers, who +had halted here for refreshments. They were +squatting on their heels, knees wide apart, and +arms balanced, resting above the elbow on their +knees—the characteristic sitting posture of all +Asiatics. Very comfortable it is, too, when +you learn to balance yourself properly and it leaves +the free use of one's arms. The <i>kalian</i> was being +passed round as usual, and each had a thimble-full +of sugared tea.<a name="Pg_1-71" id="Pg_1-71"></a></p> + +<p>I was much attracted by a large caravan of +handsome mules, the animals enjoying the +refreshing shade of the trees. They had huge +saddles ornamented with silver pommels and +rings and covered over with carpets. Variegated +cloth or carpet or red and green leather saddle-bags +hung on either side of the animals behind +the saddles. The bridle and bit were richly +ornamented with shells and silver or iron +knobs.</p> + +<p>The few mud houses in the neighbourhood had +flat roofs and were not sufficiently typical nor +inviting enough for a closer internal inspection.</p> + +<p>We are now on a tributary of the Shah-rud +on the new road, instead of the old caravan +track, which we have left since Paichinar.</p> + +<p>The country becomes more interesting and +wild as we go on. In the undoubtedly volcanic +formation of the mountains one notices large +patches of sulphurous earth on the mountain-side, +with dark red and black baked soil above it. +Over that, all along the range, curious column-like, +fluted rocks. Lower down the soil is +saturated with sulphurous matter which gives it +a rich, dark blue tone with greenish tints in it +and bright yellow patches. The earth all round +is of a warm burnt sienna colour, intensified, +when I saw it, by the reddish, soft rays of a +dying sun. It has all the appearance of having +been subjected to abnormal heat. The +characteristic shape of the peaks of the range is +conical, and a great many deep-cut channels and +holes are noticeable in the rocky sides of these<a name="Pg_1-72" id="Pg_1-72"></a> +sugar-loaf mountains, as is frequently the case +in mountains of volcanic formation.</p> + +<p>We rise higher and higher in zig-zag <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'though'">through</ins> +rugged country, and we then go across an +intensely interesting large basin, which must +at a previous date have been the interior of an +exploded and now collapsed volcano. This +place forcibly reminded me of a similar sight on +a grander scale,—the site of the ex-Bandaisan +Mountain on the main island of Nippon in +Japan, after that enormous mountain was blown +to atoms and disappeared some few years ago. +A huge basin was left, like the bottom part of a +gigantic cauldron, the edges of which bore +ample testimony to the terrific heat that must +have been inside before the explosion took place. +In the Persian scene before us, of a much older +date, the basin, corroded as it evidently was by +substances heated to a very high temperature and +by the action of forming gases, had been to a +certain extent obliterated by the softening actions +of time and exposure to air. The impression +was not so violent and marked as the one received +at Bandaisan, which I visited only a few days +after the explosion, but the various characteristics +were similar.</p> + +<p>In the basin was a solitary hut, which rejoiced +in the name of Kort. These great commotions of +nature are interesting, but to any one given to +sound reflection they are almost too big for the +human mind to grasp. They impress one, they +almost frighten one, but give no reposeful, real +pleasure in gazing upon them such as less dis<a name="Pg_1-73" id="Pg_1-73"></a>turbed +scenery does. The contrasts in colour +and shape are too violent, too crude to please the +eye: the freaks too numerous to be comprehensible +at a glance. Here we have a ditch +with sides perfectly black-baked, evidently by +lava or some other hot substance which has +flowed through; further on big splashes of +violent red and a great variety of warm browns. +The eye roams from one spot to the other, +trying to understand exactly what has taken +place—a job which occupies a good deal of one's +time and attention as one drives through, and +which would occupy a longer time and study +than a gallop through in a post landau can +afford.</p> + +<p>At Agha Baba we were again on the old track, +quite flat now, and during the night we galloped +easily on a broad road through uninteresting +country till we reached Kasvin, 185 <i>versts</i> from +Resht.</p> + +<p>Kasvin, in the province of Irak, is a very +ancient city, which has seen better days, has +gone through a period of misfortune, and will in +future probably attain again a certain amount of +prosperity. It is situated at an altitude of +4,094 feet (at the Indo-European telegraph +office), an elevation which gives it a very hot +but dry, healthy climate with comparatively cool +nights. The town is handsome, square in form, +enclosed in a wall with towers.</p> + +<p>The governor's palace is quite impressive, +with a fine broad avenue of green trees leading +from it to the spacious Kasvin rest-house. This<a name="Pg_1-74" id="Pg_1-74"></a> +is by far the best rest-house on the road to the +Persian capital, with large rooms, clean enough +for Persia, and with every convenience for +cooking one's food. Above the doorway the +Persian lion, with the sun rising above his back, +has been elaborately painted, and a picturesque +pool of stagnant water at the bottom of the steps +is no doubt the breeding spot of mosquitoes and +flies, of which there are swarms, to make one's +life a misery.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-06.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-06_th.jpg" alt="Making a Kanat" title="Making a Kanat" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Making a</span> <i>Kanat</i>.</p> + +<p>The palatial rest-house, the governor's palace, +a mosque or two, and the convenient bath-houses +for Mahommedans being barred, there is nothing +particular to detain the traveller in Kasvin.</p> + +<p>One hears that Kasvin occupied at one time a +larger area than Teheran to-day. The remains +of this magnitude are certainly still there. The +destruction of the city, they say, has been due to +many and varied misfortunes. Earthquakes and +famines in particular have played an important +part in the history of Kasvin, and they account +for the many streets and large buildings in ruins +which one finds, such as the remains of the Sufi +Palace and the domed mosque. The city dates +back to the fourth century, but it was not till +the sixteenth century that it became the <i>Dar-el-Sultanat</i>—the +seat of royalty—under Shah +Tamasp. It prospered as the royal city until +the time of Shah Abbas, whose wisdom made +him foresee the dangers of maintaining a capital +too near the Caspian Sea. Isfahan was selected +as the future capital, from which time Kasvin, +semi-abandoned, began its decline.<a name="Pg_1-75" id="Pg_1-75"></a></p> + +<p>In 1870 a famine devastated the town to a +considerable extent, but even previous to that a +great portion of the place had been left to decay, +so that to-day one sees large stretches of ruined +houses all round the neighbourhood and in +Kasvin itself. The buildings are mostly one-storied, +very few indeed boasting of an upper +floor. The pleasant impression one receives on +entering the city is mostly caused by the quantity +of verdure and vegetation all round.</p> + +<p>One of the principal things which strike the +traveller in Persia, especially on nearing a big +city, is the literal myriads of curious conical +heaps, with a pit in the centre, that one notices +running across the plains in long, interminable +rows, generally towards the mountains. +These are the <i>kanats</i>, the astounding aqueducts +with which dried-up Persia is bored in all directions +underground, the canals that lead fresh +water from the distant springs to the cities, to +the villages, and to irrigate the fields. The +ancient process of making these <i>kanats</i> has descended +unchanged to the modern Persian, who +is really a marvellous expert—when he chooses +to use his skill—at conveying water where Nature +has not provided it. I watched some men making +one of these <i>kanats</i>. They had bored a vertical +hole about three feet in diameter, over which a +wooden windlass had been erected. One man +was working at the bottom of the shaft. By +means of buckets the superfluous earth was gradually +raised up to the surface, and the hole +bored further. The earth removed in the ex<a name="Pg_1-76" id="Pg_1-76"></a>cavation +is then embanked all round the aperture +of the shaft. When the required depth is +attained a tunnel is pierced, mostly with the +hands and a small shovel, in a horizontal direction, +and seldom less than four feet high, two feet +wide, just big enough to let the workman +through. Then another shaft has to be made +for ventilation's sake and to raise to the surface +the displaced earth. Miles of these <i>kanats</i> are +thus bored, with air shafts every ten to twenty +feet distant. In many places one sees thirty, +forty, fifty parallel long lines of these aqueducts, +with several thousand shafts, dotting the surface +of the ground.</p> + +<p>Near ancient towns and villages one finds +a great many of these <i>kanats</i> dry and disused +at present, and nearly everywhere one sees +people at work making fresh ones, for how to +get water is one of the great and serious questions +in the land of Iran. Near Kasvin these +<i>kanats</i> are innumerable, and the water carried +by them goes through the streets of the city, +with holes here and there in the middle of the +road to draw it up. These holes are a serious +danger to any one given to walking about without +looking where he is placing his feet. It is +mainly due to these artificial water-tunnels that +the plain of Kasvin, otherwise arid and oppressively +hot, has been rendered extremely fertile.</p> + +<p>There are a great many gardens with plenty +of fruit-trees. Vineyards abound, producing +excellent stoneless grapes, which, when dried, are +mostly exported to Russia. Pomegranates, water-<a name="Pg_1-77" id="Pg_1-77"></a>melons, +cucumbers, and cotton are also grown. +Excellent horses and camels are bred here.</p> + +<p>Kasvin being the half-way house, as it were, +between Resht and Teheran, and an important +city in itself, is bound—even if only in a reflected +manner—to feel the good effects of having +through communication to the Caspian and the +capital made so easy by the completion of the +Russian road.</p> + +<p>The silk and rice export trade for Bagdad has +gone up during the last two years, and in the +fertile plain in which Kasvin lies agriculture is +beginning to look up again, although not quite +so much as in the Resht district, which is +naturally the first to reap benefit from the +development of Northern Persia.</p> + +<p>The chief manufactures of Kasvin are carpets, +a kind of coarse cotton-cloth called <i>kerbas</i>, velvet, +brocades, iron-ware and sword-blades, which are +much appreciated by Persians.</p> + +<p>There is a large bazaar in which many cheap +European goods are sold besides the more +picturesque articles of local manufacture.</p> + +<p>From a strategical point of view, Kasvin +occupies a position not to be overlooked, guarding +as it does the principal entrance from the +south into the Ghilan province.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-78" id="Pg_1-78"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_VIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Four thousand feet above sea-level—Castellated walls—An +obnoxious individual—Luggage weighing—The strange +figure of an African black—How he saved an Englishman's +life—Teheran hotels—Interesting guests—Life of bachelors +in Teheran—The Britisher in Persia—Home early—Social +sets—Etiquette—Missionaries—Foreign communities—The +servant question.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> hours' rest to give one's aching bones +a chance of returning into their normal condition +and position, and amidst the profound salaams of +the rest-house servants, we speed away towards +Teheran, 130 versts more according to the +Russian road measurement (about 108 miles). +We gallop on the old, wide and flat road, on +which the traffic alone diverts one,—long strings +of donkeys, of camels, every now and then a +splendid horse with a swaggering rider. We are +travelling on the top of the plateau, and are +keeping at an altitude slightly above 4,000 feet. +Distant mountains lie to the north, otherwise +there is absolutely nothing to see, no vegetation +worth mentioning, everything dry and barren.</p> + +<p>Now and then, miles and miles apart, comes +a quadrangular or rectangular, castellated mud +wall enclosing a cluster of fruit trees and vege<a name="Pg_1-79" id="Pg_1-79"></a>table +gardens; then miles and miles again of +dreary, barren country.</p> + +<p>Were it not for the impudence of the natives—increasing +to a maximum—there is nothing to +warn the traveller that one is approaching the +capital of the Persian Empire, and one finds +one's self at the gate of the city without the usual +excitement of perceiving from a distance a high +tower, or a dome or a steeple or a fortress, or a +landmark of some sort or other, to make one +enjoy the approach of one's journey's end.</p> + +<p>Abdulabad, 4,015 feet, Kishslak, 3,950 feet, +Sankarabad, 4,210 feet, Sulimaneh, 4,520 feet, +are the principal places and main elevations on +the road, but from the last-named place the +incline in the plateau tends to descend very +gently. Teheran is at an altitude of 3,865 feet.</p> + +<p>Six farsakhs from Teheran, where we had to +change horses, an individual connected with the +transport company made himself very obnoxious, +and insisted on accompanying the carriage to +Teheran. He was picturesquely attired in a +brown long coat, and displayed a nickel-plated +revolver, with a leather belt of cartridges. He +was cruel to the horses and a nuisance to the +coachman. He interfered considerably with the +progress of the carriage and made himself unbearable +in every possible way. When I stopped +at a khafe-khana for a glass of tea, he actually +removed a wheel of the carriage, which we had +considerable difficulty in putting right again, and +he pounded the coachman on the head with the +butt of his revolver, in order, as far as I could<a name="Pg_1-80" id="Pg_1-80"></a> +understand, that he should be induced to go half-shares +with him in the backshish that the driver +would receive at the end of the stage.</p> + +<p>All this provided some entertainment, until +we reached the Teheran gate. Only half a mile +more and I should be at the hotel. But man +proposes and the Persian disposes. The carriage +and fourgon were driven into a large courtyard, +the horses were unharnessed, all the luggage +removed from the fourgon and carriage, and +deposited in the dust. A primitive scale was +produced and slung to a tripod, and each article +weighed and weighed over again so as to take up +as much of one's time as possible. Various +expedients to impose upon me, having failed +I was allowed to proceed, a new fourgon and +fresh horses being provided for the journey of +half a mile more, the obnoxious man jumping +first on the box so as to prevent being left +behind.</p> + +<p>At last the hotel was reached, and here +another row arose with a profusion of blows +among a crowd of beggars who had at once +collected and disputed among themselves the +right of unloading my luggage.</p> + +<p>A strange figure appeared on the scene. A +powerful, half-naked African, as black as coal, +and no less than six foot two in height. He +sported a huge wooden club in his hand, which +he whirled round in a most dangerous manner, +occasionally landing it on people's skulls and +backs in a sonorous fashion. The crowd +vanished, and he, now as gently as possible,<a name="Pg_1-81" id="Pg_1-81"></a> +removed the luggage from the fourgon and +conveyed it into the hotel.</p> + +<p>The obnoxious man now hastily descended +from his seat and demanded a backshish.</p> + +<p>"What for?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, sir," intervened a Persian gentleman +present, "this man says he has annoyed you all +the way, but he could not make you angry. He +must have backshish! He makes a living by +annoying travellers!"</p> + +<p>In contrast to this low, depraved parasite, the +African black seemed quite a striking figure,—a +scamp, if you like, yet full of character. He +was a dervish, with drunken habits and a fierce +nature when under the influence of drink, but +with many good points when sober. On one +occasion an Englishman was attacked by a crowd +of Persians, and was in danger of losing his life, +when this man, with considerable bravery (not +to speak of his inseparable mallet which he used +freely), went to the rescue of the sahib and +succeeded in saving him. For this act of +courage he has ever since been supported by the +charity of foreigners in Teheran. He unfortunately +spends all his earnings in drink, and +can be very coarse indeed, in his songs and +imitations, which he delights in giving when +under the influence of liquor. He hangs round +the hotel, crying out "<i>Yahu! yahu!</i>" when +hungry—a cry quite pathetic and weird, especially +in the stillness of night.</p> + +<p>There are two hotels in Teheran and several +European and Armenian restaurants. The<a name="Pg_1-82" id="Pg_1-82"></a> +English hotel is the best,—not a dream of cleanliness, +nor luxury, nor boasting of a cuisine +which would remain impressed upon one's mind, +except for its elaborate monotony,—but quite a +comfortable place by comparison with the other +European hotels of Persia. The beds are clean, +and the proprietress tries hard to make people +comfortable.</p> + +<p>More interesting than the hotel itself was the +curious crowd of people whom one saw at the +dinner-table. I remember sitting down one +evening to dinner with nine other people, and +we represented no less than ten different +nationalities! The tower of Babel sank almost +into insignificance compared with the variety +of languages one heard spoken all round, and +one's polyglot abilities were tested to no mean +extent in trying to carry on a general conversation. +One pleasant feature of these dinners +was the amount of talent and good-humour +that prevailed in the company, and the absolute +lack of distinction of class or social position. +Side by side one saw a distinguished +diplomat conversing with the Shah's automobile +driver, and a noteworthy English member of +Parliament on friendly terms with an Irish +gentleman of the Indo-European Telegraphs. +A burly, jolly Dutchman stood drinks all round +to members of the Russian and English Banks +alike, and a French <i>sage-femme</i> just arrived +discussed her prospects with the hotel proprietress. +The Shah's A.D.C. and favourite +music-composer and pianist came frequently to<a name="Pg_1-83" id="Pg_1-83"></a> +enliven the evenings with some really magnificent +playing, and by way of diversion some wild +Belgian employees of the derelict sugar-factory +used almost nightly to cover with insults a +notable "Chevalier d'industrie" whose thick +skin was amazing.</p> + +<p>Then one met Armenians—who one was told +had come out of jail,—and curio-dealers, mine +prospectors, and foreign Generals of the Persian +army.</p> + +<p>Occasionally there was extra excitement when +an engagement or a wedding took place, when the +parties usually adjourned to the hotel, and then +there was unlimited consumption of beer, +nominally (glycerine really, for, let me explain, +beer does not stand a hot climate unless a large +percentage of glycerine is added to it), and of +highly-explosive champagne and French wines, +Château this and Château that—of Caspian +origin.</p> + +<p>Being almost a teetotaller myself, this mixed +crowd—but not the mixed drink—was interesting +to study, and what particularly struck me +was the <i>bonhomie</i>, the real good-heartedness, and +manly but thoughtful, genial friendliness of men +towards one another, irrespective of class, position +or condition, except, of course, in the cases of +people with whom it was not possible to associate. +The hard, mean, almost brutal jealousy, spite, the +petty rancour of the usual Anglo-Indian man, for +instance, does not exist at all in Persia among +foreigners or English people. On the contrary, +it is impossible to find more hospitable, more<a name="Pg_1-84" id="Pg_1-84"></a> +gentlemanly, polite, open-minded folks than the +Britishers one meets in Persia.</p> + +<p>Of course, it must be remembered, the type of +Britisher one finds in Persia is a specially +talented, enterprising and well-to-do individual, +whose ideas have been greatly broadened by the +study of several foreign languages which, in +many cases, have taken him on the Continent for +several years in his youth. Furthermore, lacking +entirely the ruling "look down upon the native" +idea, so prevalent in India, he is thrown much in +contact with the Persians, adopting from them +the courteous manner and form of speech, which +is certainly more pleasant than the absurd rudeness +of the "keep-aloof" notion which generally +makes us hated by most Orientals.</p> + +<p>The Britisher in Persia, with few exceptions, +is a charming person, simple and unaffected, and +ready to be of service if he can. He is not +aggressive, and, in fact, surprisingly suave.</p> + +<p>This abnormal feature in the British character +is partly due to the climate, hot but very +healthy, and to the exile to which the Briton +has to reconcile himself for years to come. +Indeed, Persia is an exile, a painful one for a +bachelor, particularly. Woman's society, which +at all times helps to make life sweet and pleasant, +is absolutely lacking in Persia. European women +are scarce and mostly married or about to get +married. The native women are kept in strict +seclusion. One never sees a native woman +except heavily veiled under her <i>chudder</i>, much +less can a European talk to her. The laws<a name="Pg_1-85" id="Pg_1-85"></a> +of Persia are so severe that anything in the +shape of a flirtation with a Persian lady may cost +the life of Juliet or Romeo, or both, and if life +is spared, blackmail is ever after levied by the +police or by the girl's parents or by servants.</p> + +<p>In Teheran all good citizens must be indoors +by nine o'clock at night, and any one found +prowling in the streets after that hour has to deal +with the police. In the European quarter this +rule is overlooked in the case of foreigners, but +in the native city even Europeans found peacefully +walking about later than that hour are +taken into custody and conveyed before the +magistrate, who satisfies himself as to the man's +identity and has him duly escorted home.</p> + +<p>There are no permanent amusements of any +kind in Teheran. An occasional concert or a +dance, but no theatres, no music-halls. There +is a comfortable Club, where people meet and +drink and play cards, but that is all.</p> + +<p>Social sets, of course, exist in the Teheran +foreign community. There are "The Telegraph" +set, "the Bank," "the Legations." +There is an uncommon deal of social etiquette, +and people are most particular regarding calls, +dress, and the number of cards left at each door. +It looks somewhat incongruous to see men +in their black frock-coats and silk tall hats, +prowling about the streets, with mud up to their +knees if wet, or blinded with dust if dry, among +strings of camels, mules, or donkeys. But that +is the fashion, and people have to abide by it.</p> + +<p>There are missionaries in Teheran, American<a name="Pg_1-86" id="Pg_1-86"></a> +and English, but fortunately they are not permitted +to make converts. The English, Russian +and Belgian communities are the most numerous, +then the French, the Dutch, the Austrian, the +Italian, the American.</p> + +<p>Taking things all round, the Europeans seem +reconciled to their position in Teheran—a life +devoid of any very great excitement, and partaking +rather of the nature of vegetation, yet +with a certain charm in it—they say—when +once people get accustomed to it. But one has +to get accustomed to it first.</p> + +<p>The usual servant question is a very serious +one in Teheran, and is one of the chief troubles +that Europeans have to contend with. There +are Armenian and Persian servants, and there is +little to choose between the two. Servants +accustomed to European ways are usually a bad +lot, and most unreliable; but in all fairness it +must be admitted that, to a great extent, these +servants have been utterly spoilt by Europeans +themselves, who did not know how to deal with +them in a suitable manner. I repeatedly noticed +in Teheran and other parts of Persia that people +who really understood the Persian character, and +treated subordinates with consideration, had most +excellent servants—to my mind, the most intelligent +and hard-working in the world—and +spoke very highly of them.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-87" id="Pg_1-87"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_IX" id="V1-CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Teheran—The seat of the Kajar family—The square of the +gun—Sanctuaries—The Top Meidan—Tramways—A +railway—Opposition of the Mullahs and population—Destruction +of a train—Mosques—Habitations—Extortion +and blackmail—Persian philosophy.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A description</span> of Teheran is hardly necessary +here, the city being so well-known, but +for the help of people unfamiliar with its +character a rough sketch of the place may be +given.</p> + +<p>Teheran, it must be remembered, has only +been the capital of Persia for the last hundred +years, when the capital was removed from +Isfahan. Previous to that it was merely a +royal resort and nothing more. In shape it +was formerly almost circular—or, to be strictly +accurate, polygonal, the periphery of the polygon +measuring a <i>farsakh</i>, four miles. Like all +Persian cities it was enclosed in a mud wall +and a moat. Since then the city has so +increased that an extension has been made to +an outer boundary some ten miles in circumference, +and marked by an uneven ditch, the +excavated sand of which is thrown up to form<a name="Pg_1-88" id="Pg_1-88"></a> +a sort of battlement. Twelve gates, opened at +sunrise and closed at night, give access to the +town. The citadel, the ancient part of the city, +contains the principal public buildings, the +private residences of high officials, and the +Shah's Palace. To the south of this are found +the extensive domed bazaars and the commercial +portion of Teheran. To the north lies +the European quarter with the Legations, +Banks and European shops.</p> + +<p>We will not go as far back as the Afghan +invasion in 1728 when, according to history, +Teheran was looted and razed to the ground by +the Afghans, but we will only mention the fact, +which is more interesting to us, that it was not +till about 1788 that the city was selected on +account of its geographical position and of +political necessities, as the seat of the Kajar +dynasty by Agha Mohammed, who in 1796 +became the first King of his family. The +Kajar, as everybody knows, has remained the +reigning dynasty of Persia to this day.</p> + +<p>The most interesting point of Teheran, in +the very centre of the city, is the old "Place +du Canon," where on a high platform is a +gigantic piece of ordnance enclosed by a railing. +In the same square is a large reservoir of more +or less limpid water, in which at all hours of the +day dozens of people are to be seen bathing. +But the big gun attracts one's attention principally. +A curious custom, which is slowly being +done away with, has made this spot a sanctuary. +Whoever remains within touch or even within<a name="Pg_1-89" id="Pg_1-89"></a> +the shadow of the gun—whether an assassin, a +thief, a bankrupt, an incendiary, a traitor or a +highwayman,—in fact, a criminal of any kind +cannot be touched by the police nor by persons +seeking a personal revenge—the usual way of +settling differences in Persia. A number of +distinctly criminal types can always be observed +near the gun and are fed by relations, friends, +or by charitable people. Persians of all classes +are extremely charitable, not so much for the +sake of helping their neighbours in distress, as +for increasing their claims to a seat in Paradise, +according to the Mussulman religion.</p> + +<p>These sanctuaries are common in Persia. The +mosques, the principal shrines, such as Meshed, +Kum, the houses of Mullahs, and in many +cases the bazaars which are generally to be found +adjoining places of pilgrimage, afford most +convenient shelter to outlaws. The Mullahs +are greatly responsible for the protection of +miscreants. By exercising it they are able to +show their power over the authorities of the +country—a fact which impresses the masses. +That is why in the neighbourhood of many +mosques one sees a great number of ruffianly +faces, unmistakable cut-throats, men and boys +whose villainy is plainly stamped on their countenances. +As long as they remain inside the +sacred precincts—which they can do if they like +till they die of old age—they can laugh at the +law and at the world at large. But let them +come out, and they are done for.</p> + +<p>The Shah's stables are considered a very safe<a name="Pg_1-90" id="Pg_1-90"></a> +sanctuary. Houses of Europeans, or Europeans +themselves, were formerly considered sanctuaries, +but the habit has—fortunately for the +residents—fallen into disuse. I myself, when +driving one day in the environs of Teheran, saw +a horseman leading a man whose neck was tied +to a substantial rope. Much to my surprise, +when near enough, the prisoner jumped into my +carriage, and it was only after some persuasion +on my side and a few pulls at the rope from the +rider at the other end that the unwelcome +companion was made to dismount again.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-07.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-07_th.jpg" alt="The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah." title="The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah.</p> + +<p>When in the company of high Mullahs evil +characters are also inviolable.</p> + +<p>The largest square in Teheran is the Top +Meidan or "Cannon plain," where several small +and antiquated pieces of artillery are enclosed in +a fence. Two parallel avenues with trees cross +the rectangular square at its longest side from +north to south. In the centre is a large covered +reservoir. The offices of both the Persian and +Indo-European Telegraphs are in this square, +and also the very handsome building of the Bank +of Persia.</p> + +<p>The square is quite imposing at first sight, +having on two sides uniform buildings with long +balconies. The <i>lunettes</i> of the archways underneath +have each a picture of a gun, and on +approaching the southern gates of the parallelogram +a smile is provoked by the gigantic but +crude, almost childish representations of modern +soldiers on glazed tiles. To the west is the +extensive drill ground for the Persian troops.<a name="Pg_1-91" id="Pg_1-91"></a> +Another important artery of Teheran runs from +east to west across the same square.</p> + +<p>One cannot but be interested on perceiving +along the main thoroughfares of Teheran a service +of horse tramways working quite steadily. +But the rolling stock is not particularly inviting +outwardly—much less inwardly. It is mostly +for the use of natives and Armenians, and the +carriages are very dirty. The horses, however, +are good. The Tramway Company in the hands +of Russian Jews, I believe, but managed by an +Englishman and various foreigners—subalterns—was +doing pretty fair business, and jointly with +the tramways had established a capital service of +"Voitures de remise," which avoided all the +trouble and unpleasantness of employing street +cabs. The carriages, mostly victorias, were +quite good and clean.</p> + +<p>Among other foreign things, Teheran can also +boast of a railway—a mere steam tramway, in +reality—of very narrow gauge and extending for +some six miles south of the city to the shrine of +Shah Abdul Hazim.</p> + +<p>The construction of even so short and unimportant +a line met with a great deal of +opposition, especially from the priestly class, +when it was first started in 1886 by a Belgian +company—"La Société des Chemins de Fer et +des Tramways de Perse." The trains began to +run two years later, in 1888, and it was believed +that the enormous crowds of pilgrims who daily +visited the holy shrine would avail themselves of +the convenience. Huge profits were expected,<a name="Pg_1-92" id="Pg_1-92"></a> +but unluckily the four or five engines that were +imported at an excessive cost, and the difficulties +encountered in laying down the line, which was +continually being torn up by fanatics, and, most +of all, the difficulty experienced in inducing +pilgrims to travel in sufficient numbers by the +line instead of on horses, mules or donkeys were +unexpected and insoluble problems which the +managers had to face, and which made the +shareholders grumble. The expenses far exceeded +the profits, and the capital employed in +the construction of the line was already vastly +larger than had been anticipated. One fine day, +furthermore, a much-envied and respected pilgrim, +who had returned in holiness from the famous +shrine of Kerbalah, was unhappily run over and +killed by a train. The Mullahs made capital of +this accident and preached vengeance upon +foreign importations, the work of the devil and +distasteful to Allah the great. The railway was +mobbed and the engine and carriages became a +mass of débris.</p> + +<p>There was nearly a serious riot about this in +Teheran city; the trains continued to run with +the undamaged engines, but no one would travel +by them. Result? "La Compagnie des Chemins +de Fer et des Tramways de Perse" went bankrupt. +The whole concern was eventually bought +up cheap by a Russian Company, and is now +working again, as far as regards the railway, in a +more or less spasmodic manner.</p> + +<p>The tramway service connects the three +principal gates of the outer wall of Teheran with<a name="Pg_1-93" id="Pg_1-93"></a> +the centre of the city "the Place des Canons" +(Meidan-Top-Khaned).</p> + +<p>Although there are a great many mosques in +Teheran city there is not one of great importance +or beauty. The Mesjid-i-shah, or the Shah's +Mosque, is the most noteworthy, and has a very +decorative glazed tiled façade. Then next in +beauty is probably the mosque of the Shah's +mother, but neither is in any way uncommon +for size, or wealth, architectural lines, or sacredness. +Several mosques have colleges attached to +them, as is the usual custom in Persia. Access +to the interior of the mosques is not permitted +to Europeans unless they have embraced the +Mahommedan religion.</p> + +<p>Outwardly, there are few native houses in +Teheran that impress one with any remarkable +features of wealth or beauty; in fact, they are +nearly all wretchedly miserable,—a plastered +mud or brick wall with a modest little doorway +being all one sees from the street of the dwellings +of even the richest and noblest of Persians. +Inside matters are different. Frequently a miserable +little tumbling-down gate gives access, +after going through similarly miserable, narrow, +low passages, to magnificent palaces and astoundingly +beautiful and luxurious courts and gardens. +I asked what was the reason of the poor outward +appearance of these otherwise luxurious +dwellings. Was it modesty,—was it to deceive +envious eyes?</p> + +<p>There are few countries where blackmail and +extortion are carried on on a more extensive and<a name="Pg_1-94" id="Pg_1-94"></a> +successful scale than in Persia; all classes and +conditions of people are exposed to the danger, +and it is only by an assumed air of poverty that +a certain amount of security is obtained. A +miserable-looking house, it was explained by a +Persian, does not attract the covetous eye of the +passer-by; an unusually beautiful one does. +"It is a fatal mistake," he added, "to let anybody's +eye rest on one's possessions, whether he +be the Shah, a minister, or a beggar. He will +want to rest his hands upon them next, and then +everything is gone. Besides," he said, "it is the +inside of a house that gives pleasure and comfort +to the occupier and his friends. One does not +build a house to give pleasure and comfort to +the people in the street. That is only vainglory +of persons who wish to make their neighbours +jealous by outward show. They usually have to +repent it sooner or later."</p> + +<p>There was more philosophy than European +minds may conceive in the Persian's words—at +least, for Persian householders.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-95" id="Pg_1-95"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_X" id="V1-CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Legations—Germany a stumbling-block to Russia's and England's +supremacy—Sir Arthur Hardinge, British Minister +in Teheran—His talent, tact, and popularity—The British +Legation—Summer quarters—Legation guards—Removal +of furniture.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> late as 1872 there were only four Legations +in Teheran: the English, French, Russian and +Turkish; but since then the Governments of +Austria, Belgium, Holland, and the United +States have established Legations in the Persian +capital. By the Persians themselves only four +are considered of first-class importance, viz.: the +British, Russian, Turkish and Belgian Legations, +as being more closely allied with the interests of +the country. The Austrian Legation comes +next to these in importance, then the German.</p> + +<p>American interests are so far almost a negligible +quantity in Persia, but Germany is +attempting to force her trade into Persia. In +future, if she can realise her railway schemes in +Asia Minor, Germany will be a very serious +stumbling-block to England's and Russia's +supremacy, both in North and Southern Persia. +Germany's representative in Teheran is a man<a name="Pg_1-96" id="Pg_1-96"></a> +of considerable skill and untiring energy. No +doubt that when the opportune time comes and +Germany is ready to advance commercially in +the Persian market, England in particular will +be the chief sufferer, as the British manufacturer +has already experienced great difficulty in contending +with the cheap German goods. Even +in India, where transport is comparatively easy, +German goods swamp the bazaars in preference +to English goods. Much more will this be the +case in Persia when the railway comes to the +Persian boundary.</p> + +<p>The German Minister is certainly sparing no +efforts to foster German interests in Persia, and +the enterprising Emperor William has shown +every possible attention to the Shah on his visit +to Berlin, in order that the racial antipathy, +which for some reason or other Persians entertain +towards Germans, may with all due speed +be wiped out.</p> + +<p>To us the British Legation is more interesting +at present. We may well be proud of our +present Minister, Sir Arthur Hardinge, a man of +whose like we have few in our diplomatic +service. I do not think that a man more fit for +Persia than Sir Arthur could be found anywhere +in the British Empire. He possesses quite +extraordinary talent, with a quick working +brain, a marvellous aptitude for languages—in a +few months' residence in Persia he had mastered +the Persian language, and is able to converse in +it fluently—and is endowed with a gift which +few Britishers possess, refined tact and a certain<a name="Pg_1-97" id="Pg_1-97"></a> +amount of thoughtful consideration for other +people's feelings.</p> + +<p>Nor is this all. Sir Arthur seems to understand +Orientals thoroughly, and Persians in +particular. He is extremely dignified in his +demeanour towards the native officials, yet he is +most affable and cheery, with a very taking, +charming manner. That goes a much longer +way in Persia than the other unfortunate manner +by which many of our officials think to show +dignity—sheer stiffness, rudeness, bluntness, +clumsiness—which offends, offends bitterly, instead +of impressing.</p> + +<p>A fluent and most graceful speaker, with a +strong touch of Oriental flowery forms of speech +in his compliments to officials, with an eye that +accurately gauges situations—usually in Persia +very difficult ones—a man full of resource and +absolutely devoid of ridiculous insular notions—a +man who studies hard and works harder still—a +man with unbounded energy and an enthusiast +in his work—a man who knows his subject well, +although he has been such a short time in +Teheran—this is our British Minister at the +Shah's Court.</p> + +<p>Nor is this faint praise. Sir Arthur Hardinge +has done more in a few months to save British +prestige and to safeguard British interests in +Persia than the public know, and this he has +done merely by his own personal genius and +charm, rather than by instructions or help from +the home Government.</p> + +<p>While in Teheran I had much opportunity of<a name="Pg_1-98" id="Pg_1-98"></a> +meeting a great many high Persian officials, and +all were unanimous in singing the praises of our +new Minister. Many of them seemed very +bitter against some of his predecessors, but +whether the fault was in the predecessors themselves +or in the home Government, it is not for +me to say. Anyhow, bygones are bygones, and +we must make the best of our present opportunities. +The staff at our Legation and Consulate +is also first-class.</p> + +<p>It is to be hoped, now that the South African +war is over, that the Government will be able to +devote more attention to the Persian Question, a +far more serious matter than we imagine; and as +extreme ignorance prevails in this country +about Persia—even in circles where it should +not exist—it would be well, when we have such +excellent men as Sir Arthur Hardinge at the +helm, in whose intelligence we may confidently +and absolutely trust, to give him a little more +assistance and freedom of action, so as to allow +him a chance of safeguarding our interests +properly, and possibly of preventing further +disasters.</p> + +<p>It is not easy for the uninitiated to realise the +value of certain concessions obtained for the +British by Sir Arthur Hardinge, such as, for +instance, the new land telegraph line <i>via</i> Kerman +Beluchistan to India. Of the petroleum concessions, +of which one hears a great deal of late, +I would prefer not to speak.</p> + +<p>The Legation grounds in Teheran itself are +extensive and beautiful, with a great many fine<a name="Pg_1-99" id="Pg_1-99"></a> +trees and shady, cool avenues. The Legation +house is handsomely furnished, and dotted all +over the gardens are the various other buildings +for secretaries, attachés, and interpreters. All +the structures are of European architecture—simple, +but solid. In summer, however, all the +Legations shift their quarters to what is called in +Teheran "<i>la campagne de</i> Golahek, de Tejerish, +de Zargandeh,"—by which gracefully misleading +and misapplied terms are indicated the +suburban residences of the Legations, at the +foot of the arid, barren, hot, dusty Shamran +range of mountains.</p> + +<p>Golahek, where the British Legation is to be +found, does actually boast of a few green trees +in the Legation grounds; and a cluster or two of +nominally "green" vegetation—really whitish +brown—can be seen at Zargandeh, where the +Russian and Belgian Legations are side by side, +and Tejerish, where the Persian Foreign Office +and many Persian officials have their summer +residences.</p> + +<p>The drive from Teheran to Golahek—seven +miles—is dusty beyond words. There are +wretched-looking trees here and there along the +road, so dried and white with dust as to excite +compassion. Half-way to Golahek the monotony +of the journey is broken by a sudden halt +at a khafe-khana, into which the coachman +rushes, leaving the horses to take care of themselves, +while he sips refreshing glasses of tea. +When it suits his convenience he returns to +splash buckets of water between the horses' legs<a name="Pg_1-100" id="Pg_1-100"></a> +and under their tails. This, he told me, in all +seriousness, was to prevent sunstroke (really, the +Persian can be humorous without knowing it), +and was a preventive imported with civilised +ways from Europe! The ears and manes of the +animals are then pulled violently, after which +the horses are considered able to proceed.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-08.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-08_th.jpg" alt="Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers." title="Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers.</p> + +<p>The Persian Government gives each Legation +a guard of soldiers. The British Legation is +guarded by infantry soldiers—an untidy, ragged, +undisciplined lot, with cylindrical hats worn at +all angles on the side of the head, and with +uniforms so dirty and torn that it is difficult to +discern what they should be like. Nearly all +other Legations are provided with soldiers of the +(Persian) Cossack regiment, who are infinitely +better drilled and clothed than the infantry regiments. +They are quite military in appearance. +It was believed that these Cossacks, being drilled +by Russian military instructors, would not be +acceptable at the British Legation, hence the +guard of infantry soldiers.</p> + +<p>The Russian Legation has two additional +Russian cavalry soldiers.</p> + +<p>The country residences of all the Legations +are quite comfortable, pretty and unpretentious, +with the usual complement of furniture of folding +pattern, so convenient but so inartistic, and +a superabundance of cane chairs. Really good +furniture being very expensive in Teheran, a +good deal of the upholstery of the Teheran Legations +is conveyed to the country residences for +the summer months. Perhaps nothing is more<a name="Pg_1-101" id="Pg_1-101"></a> +amusing to watch than one of these removals to +or from the country. Chairs, tables, sofas, and +most private effects are tied to pack-saddles on +ponies, mules or donkeys, with bundles of +mattrasses, blankets, and linen piled anyhow +upon them, while the more brittle articles of the +household are all amassed into a high pyramid +on a gigantic tray and balanced on a man's +head. Rows of these equilibrists, with the most +precious glass and crockery of the homestead, +can be noticed toddling along on the Golahek +road, dodging carriages and cavaliers in a most +surprising manner. They are said never to +break even the smallest and most fragile articles, +but such is certainly not the case with the +heavily laden donkeys and mules, which often +collide or collapse altogether, with most disastrous +results to the heavier pieces of furniture.</p> + +<p>On my arrival in Teheran I received a most +charming invitation to go and stay at the British +Legation, but partly owing to the fact that I +wished to remain in town and so be more in +touch with the natives themselves, partly because +I wished to be unbiassed in any opinion that I +might form, I decided not to accept anybody's +hospitality while in Teheran. This I am very +glad I did, for I feel I can now express an +opinion which, whether right or wrong, is my +own, and has not been in any way influenced by +any one.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-102" id="Pg_1-102"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Visits to high Persian officials—Meftah-es-Sultaneh—Persian +education—A college for orphans—Uncomfortable etiquette—The +Foreign Office—H.E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister +of Foreign Affairs—Persian interest in the Chinese War of +1900—Reform necessary.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Perhaps</span> the description of one or two visits to +high Persian officials may interest the reader.</p> + +<p>Through the kindness of the Persian Legation +in London I had received letters of introduction +which I forwarded to their addresses on my +arrival in Teheran. The first to answer, a few +hours after I had reached Teheran, was Meftah-es-Sultaneh +(Davoud), the highest person in the +Foreign Office after the Minister, who in a most +polite letter begged me to go to tea with him +at once. He had just come to town from +Tejerish, but would leave again the same +evening.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-09.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-09_th.jpg" alt="The Eftetahié College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk." title="The Eftetahié College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">The Eftetahié College</span>, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk.</p> + +<p>Escorted by the messenger, I at once drove to +Meftah's Palace, outwardly, like other palaces, +of extremely modest appearance, and entered by +a small doorway leading through very narrow +passages. Led by my guide, we suddenly passed +through a most quaint court, beautifully clean +and with a pretty fountain in the centre,—but<a name="Pg_1-103" id="Pg_1-103"></a> +no time was given me to rest and admire. +Again we entered another dark passage, this +time to emerge into a most beautiful garden with +rare plants and lovely flowers, with a huge tank, +fountains playing and swans floating gracefully +on the water. A most beautiful palace in +European architecture of good taste faced the +garden.</p> + +<p>I was admitted into a spacious drawing-room, +furnished in good European style, where Meftah-es-Sultaneh—a +rotund and jovial gentleman—greeted +me with effusion. Although he had +never been out of Persia, he spoke French, +with a most perfect accent, as fluently as a +Frenchman.</p> + +<p>What particularly struck me in him, and, +later, in many other of the younger generation +of the upper classes in Persia, was the happy +mixture of the utmost charm of manner with a +keen business head, delightful tact and no mean +sense of humour. Meftah-es-Sultaneh, for instance, +spoke most interestingly for over an hour, +and I was agreeably surprised to find what an +excellent foreign education students can receive +without leaving Persia. It is true that Meftah +is an exceptionally clever man, who would make +his mark anywhere; still it was nevertheless +remarkable how well informed he was on matters +not concerning his country.</p> + +<p>He comes from a good stock. His father, +Meftah-el-Mulk, was Minister member of the +Council of State, a very wealthy man, who +devoted much of his time and money to doing<a name="Pg_1-104" id="Pg_1-104"></a> +good to his country. Among the many praiseworthy +institutions founded and entirely supported +by him was the college for orphans, the +Dabetsane Daneshe, and the Eftetahié School. +The colleges occupy beautiful premises, and first-rate +teachers are provided who instruct their +pupils in sensible, useful matters. The boys are +well fed and clothed and are made quite happy +in every way.</p> + +<p>Meftah told me that His Excellency the +Minister of Foreign Affairs wished to see me, +so it was arranged that I should drive to Tejerish +the next morning to the Minister's country +residence.</p> + +<p>As early as five <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the following day I was +digging in my trunks in search of my frock-coat, +the only masculine attire in Persia that is +considered decent, and without which no respectable +man likes to be seen. Then for the +tall hat; and with the temperature no less than +98° in the shade I started in an open victoria to +drive the nine miles or so to the appointment.</p> + +<p>Not being a Persian myself, and not quite +sharing the same ideas of propriety, I felt rather +ridiculous in my get-up, driving across the sunny, +dusty and barren country until we reached the +hills. I had to keep my feet under the seat of +the carriage, for when the sun's rays (thermometer +above 125°) struck my best patent-leather +shoes, the heat was well-nigh intolerable.</p> + +<p>At last, after going slowly up-hill through +winding lanes enclosed in mud walls, and along<a name="Pg_1-105" id="Pg_1-105"></a> +dry ditches with desiccated trees on either side, +we arrived at the <i>Campagne de Tejerish</i>, and +pulled up in front of a big gate, at the residence +of the Minister.</p> + +<p>The trials of the long drive had been great. +With the black frock-coat white with dust, my +feet absolutely broiled in the patent shoes, and +the perspiration streaming down my forehead +and cheeks, I really could not help laughing at +the absurdity of civilised, or semi-civilised +fashions, and at the purposeless suffering inflicted +by them.</p> + +<p>There were a number of soldiers at the gate +with clothes undone—they were practical +people—and rusty muskets resting idle on a +rack.</p> + +<p>"Is Meftah-es-Sultaneh here?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"Yes, he is waiting for you," answered a +soldier as he sprang to his feet. He hurriedly +buttoned up his coat and hitched his belt, and, +seizing a rifle, made a military salute in the +most approved style.</p> + +<p>An attendant led me along a well-shaded +avenue to the house, and here I was ushered into +a room where, round tables covered with green +cloth, sat a great many officials. All these men +wore pleated frock-coats of all tints and gradations +of the colours of the rainbow. One and +all rose and politely saluted me before I sat down.</p> + +<p>Through the passage one could see another +room in which a number of other officials, +similarly clad and with black astrakan caps, +were opening and sorting out correspondence.<a name="Pg_1-106" id="Pg_1-106"></a></p> + +<p>Suddenly there was a hurried exit of all +present—very much like a stampede. Up the +avenue a stately, tall figure, garbed in a whitish +frock-coat over which a long loose brown coat +was donned, walked slowly and ponderously with +a crowd of underlings flitting around—like +mosquitoes round a brilliant light. It was +Mushir-ed-Doulet, the Minister of Foreign +Affairs. He turned round, now to one, then to +another official, smiling occasionally and bowing +gracefully, then glancing fiercely at another and +sternly answering a third.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-10.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-10_th.jpg" alt="H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs." title="H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet</span>, Minister of Foreign Affairs.</p> + +<p>I was rather impressed by the remarkable +facility with which he could switch on extreme +courteousness and severity, kindliness and contempt. +His face was at no time, mind you, +subjected to very marked exaggerated changes or +grimaces, such as those by which we generally +expect emotions to show themselves among ourselves, +but the changes in his expression, though +slight, were quite distinct and so expressive that +there was no mistake as to their meaning. A +soft look of compassion; a hard glance of +offended dignity; the veiled eyes deeply absorbed +in reflection; the sudden sparkle in them +at news of success, were plainly visible on his +features, as a clerk approached him bringing correspondence, +or asking his opinion, or reporting +on one matter or another.</p> + +<p>A considerable amount of the less important +business was disposed of in this fashion, as the +Minister strode up the avenue to the Foreign +Office building, and more still with two or three<a name="Pg_1-107" id="Pg_1-107"></a> +of the more important personages who escorted +him to his tents some little way from the +avenue.</p> + +<p>Meftah-es-Sultaneh, who had disappeared with +the Minister, hurriedly returned and requested +me to follow him. On a sofa under a huge tent, +sat Mushir-ed-Doulet, the Minister, who instantly +rose and greeted me effusively as I entered. He +asked me to sit on his right on the sofa while +Meftah interpreted. His Excellency only spoke +Persian. Cigarettes, cigars, coffee and tea were +immediately brought.</p> + +<p>The Minister had a most intelligent head. +As can be seen by the photograph here reproduced, +he might have passed for a European. +He was extremely dignified and business-like in +his manner. His words were few and much to +the point.</p> + +<p>Our interview was a pleasant one and I +was able to learn much of interest about the +country. The Minister seemed to lay particular +stress on the friendly relations of Russia and +England, and took particular care to avoid +comments on the more direct relations between +Persia and Russia.</p> + +<p>One point in our conversation which his +Excellency seemed very anxious to clear up was, +what would be the future of China? He +seemed keenly interested in learning whether +Russia's or England's influence had the supremacy +in the Heavenly Empire, and whether either of +these nations was actually feared by the Chinese.</p> + +<p>"Will the Chinese ever be able to fight<a name="Pg_1-108" id="Pg_1-108"></a> +England or Russia with success? Were the +Chinese well-armed during the war of 1900? +If properly armed and drilled, what chances had +the Chinese army of winning against the Allies? +Would China be eventually absorbed and divided +into two or more shares by European powers, or +would she be maintained as an Empire?"</p> + +<p>Although the Minister did not say so himself, +I could not help suspecting that in his mind the +similarity and probably parallel futures of China +and Persia afforded ground for reflection.</p> + +<p>There is no doubt that in many ways the two +countries resemble one another politically, +although Persia, owing to her more important +geographical position, may have a first place in +the race of European greed.</p> + +<p>The interest displayed by Persians of all +classes in the Chinese war of 1900 was intense, +and, curiously enough, the feeling seemed to prevail +that China had actually won the war because +the Allies had retreated, leaving the capital and +the country in the hands of the Chinese.</p> + +<p>"More than in our actual strength," said a +Persian official once to me, "our safety lies in +the rivalry of Great Britain and Russia, between +which we are wedged. Let those two nations +be friends and we are done for!"</p> + +<p>After my visit to the Minister of Foreign +Affairs I had the pleasure of meeting the Prime +Minister, the Minister of War, and the +Minister of Public Works. I found them all +extremely interesting and courteous and well up +in their work. But although talent is not<a name="Pg_1-109" id="Pg_1-109"></a> +lacking in Persia among statesmen, the country +itself, as it is to-day, does not give these men an +opportunity of shining as brightly as they might. +The whole country is in such a decayed condition +that it needs a thorough overhauling. +Then only it might be converted into quite a +formidable country. It possesses all the necessary +requirements to be a first-class nation. +Talent in exuberance, physical strength, a convenient +geographical position, a good climate, +considerable mineral and some agricultural +resources, are all to be found in Persia. All +that is wanted at present is the development of +the country on a solid, reliable basis, instead of +the insecure, unsteady intrigues upon which +business, whether political or commercial, is +unfortunately carried on in the present state of +affairs.</p> + +<p>No one realises this better than the well-to-do +Persian, and nothing would be more welcome +to him than radical reform on the part of the +Shah, and the establishment of the land of Iran +on unshakable foundations. With a national +debt so ridiculously small as Persia has at present, +there is no reason why, with less maladministration, +with her industries pushed, with +her army reorganised and placed on a serviceable +footing, she should not rank as one of the first +and most powerful among Asiatic independent +nations.</p> + +<p>We have seen what young Japan, against all +odds, has been able to accomplish in a few years. +All the more should a talented race like the<a name="Pg_1-110" id="Pg_1-110"></a> +Persians, situated to begin with in a far less +remote position than Japan, and therefore more +favourably for the acquisition of foreign ways, +be able to emulate, and even in a short time +surpass, the marvellous success attained by the +little Islanders of the Far East.</p> + +<p>It is grit that is at present lacking in Persia. +The country has a wavering policy that is extremely +injurious to her interests. One cannot +fail to compare her to a good old ship in a dangerous +sea. The men at her helm are perplexed, +and cannot quite see a clear way of steering. +The waves run high and there are plenty of reefs +and rocks about. A black gloomy sky closes the +horizon, forecasting an approaching cyclone. +The ship is leaking on all sides, and the masts +are unsteady; yet when we look at the number +of rocks and reefs and dangers which she has +steered clear through already, we cannot fail to +have some confidence in her captain and crew. +Maybe, if she is able to resist the fast-approaching +and unavoidable clash of the wind and sea +(figuratively England is the full-blown wind, +Russia the sea)—she may yet reach her destination, +swamped by the waves, dismantled, but not +beyond repair. Her damage, if one looks at her +with the eye of an expert, is after all not so great, +and with little present trouble and expense she +will soon be as good as new. Not, however, +if she is left to rot much longer.</p> + +<p>Such is Persia at present. The time has come +when she must go back into the shelter of a safe +harbour, or face the storm.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-111" id="Pg_1-111"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Persian army—The Persian soldier as he is and as he +might be—When and how he is drilled—Self-doctoring +under difficulties—Misappropriation of the army's salary—Cossack +regiments drilled by Russian officers—Death of the +Head Mullah—Tribute of the Jews—The position of Europeans—A +gas company—How it fulfilled its agreement.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A painful</span> sight is the Persian army. With +the exception of the good Cossack cavalry regiment, +properly fed, dressed, armed and drilled +by foreign instructors such as General Kossackowski, +and Russian officers, the infantry and +artillery are a wretched lot. There is no excuse +for their being so wretched, because there is +hardly a people in Asia who would make better +soldiers than the Persians if they were properly +trained. The Persian is a careless, easy-going +devil, who can live on next to nothing; he is a +good marksman, a splendid walker and horseman. +He is fond of killing, and cares little if he is +killed—and he is a master at taking cover. These +are all good qualities in a soldier, and if they +were brought out and cultivated; if the soldiers +were punctually paid and fed and clothed and +armed, there is no reason why Persia should not +have as good an army as any other nation. The<a name="Pg_1-112" id="Pg_1-112"></a> +material is there and is unusually good; it only +remains to use it properly.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-11.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-11_th.jpg" alt="Persian Soldiers—The Band." title="Persian Soldiers—The Band." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Soldiers—The Band.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-12.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-12_th.jpg" alt="Recruits Learning Music." title="Recruits Learning Music." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Recruits Learning Music.</p> + +<p>I was most anxious to see the troops at drill, +and asked a very high military officer when I +might see them.</p> + +<p>"We do not drill in summer," was the reply, +"it is too hot!"</p> + +<p>"Do you drill in winter?"</p> + +<p>"No, it is too cold."</p> + +<p>"Are the troops then only drilled in the +autumn and spring?"</p> + +<p>"Sometimes. They are principally drilled a +few days before the Shah's birthday, so that they +may look well on the parade before his Majesty."</p> + +<p>"I suppose they are also only dressed and shod +on the Shah's birthday?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"What type and calibre rifle is used in the +Persian army?"</p> + +<p>"Make it plural, as plural as you can. They +have every type under the sun. But," added the +high military officer, "we use of course 'bullet +rifles' (<i>fusils à balle</i>) not 'small shot guns'!"</p> + +<p>This "highly technical explanation" about +finished me up.</p> + +<p>As luck or ill-luck would have it, I had an +accident which detained me some four weeks in +Teheran. While at the Resht hotel, it may be +remembered how, walking barefooted on the +matting of my room, an invisible germ bored its +way into the sole of my foot, and I could not get +it out again. One day, in attempting to make +its life as lively as the brute made my foot, I<a name="Pg_1-113" id="Pg_1-113"></a> +proceeded to pour some drops of concentrated +carbolic acid upon the home of my invisible +tenant. Unluckily, in the operation my arm +caught in the blankets of my bed, and in the +jerk the whole contents of the bottle flowed out, +severely burning all my toes and the lower and +upper part of my foot, upon which the acid had +quickly dripped between the toes.</p> + +<p>With the intense heat of Teheran, this became +a very bad sore, and I was unable to stand up for +several days. Some ten days later, having gone +for a drive to get a little air, a carriage coming +full gallop from a side street ran into mine, turning +it over, and I was thrown, injuring my leg +very badly again; so with all these accidents I +was detained in Teheran long enough to witness +the Shah's birthday, and with it, for a few days +previous, the "actual drilling of the troops."</p> + +<p>I have heard it said, but will not be responsible +for the statement, that the troops are nearer +their full complement on such an auspicious +occasion than at any other time of the year, so +as to make a "show" before his Majesty. Very +likely this is true. When I was in Teheran a +great commotion took place, which shows how +things are occasionally done in the land of Iran. +The ex-Minister of War, Kawam-ed-douleh, +who had previously been several times Governor +of Teheran, was arrested, by order of the Shah, +for embezzling a half year's pay of the whole +Persian army. Soldiers were sent to his country +residence and the old man, tied on a white mule, +was dragged into Teheran. His cap having<a name="Pg_1-114" id="Pg_1-114"></a> +been knocked off—it is a disgrace to be seen in +public without a hat—his relations asked that he +should be given a cap, which concession was +granted, on payment of several hundred tomans. A +meal of rice is said to have cost the prisoner a +few more hundred tomans, and so much salt had +purposely been mixed with it that the thirsty +ex-Minister had to ask for copious libations of +water, each tumbler at hundreds of tomans.</p> + +<p>Several other high officials were arrested in +connection with these army frauds, and would +probably have lost their heads, had it not been for +the special kindness of the Shah who punished +them by heavy fines, repayment of the sums +appropriated, and exile. It is a well-known fact +in Persia that whether the frauds begin high up +or lower down in the scale of officials, the pay +often does not reach the private soldier, and if it +does is generally reduced to a minimum.</p> + +<p>The food rations, too, if received by the men +at all, are most irregular, which compels the +soldiers to look out for themselves at the expense +of the general public. This is a very great pity, +for with what the Shah pays for the maintenance +of the army, he could easily, were the money +not appropriated for other purposes, keep quite +an efficient little force, properly instructed, +clothed, and armed.</p> + +<p>The drilling of the soldiers, which I witnessed +just before the Shah's birthday, partook very +much of the character of a theatrical performance. +The drilling, which hardly ever lasted +more than a couple of hours a day, was limited<a name="Pg_1-115" id="Pg_1-115"></a> +to teaching the soldiers how to keep time while +marching and presenting arms. The brass bands +played <i>fortissimo</i>—but not <i>benissimo</i>—all the time, +and various evolutions were gone through in the +spacious <i>place d'armes</i> before the Italian General, +in Persian employ, and a bevy of highly-dressed +Persian officers. There was a great variety of +ragged uniforms, and head-gears, from kolah +caps to brass and tin helmets, and the soldiers' +ages ranged from ten to sixty.</p> + +<p>The soldiers seemed very good-humoured and +obedient, and certainly, when I saw them later +before the Shah in their new uniforms, they +looked quite different and had not the wretched +appearance they present in daily life.</p> + +<p>But these infantry soldiers do not bear comparison +with the Russian-drilled Persian Cossacks. +The jump is enormous, and well shows what can +be done with these men if method and discipline +are used. Of course perfection could not be +expected in such a short time, especially considering +the difficulties and interference which +foreign officers have to bear from the Persians, but +it is certainly to be regretted that such excellent +material is now practically wasted and useless.</p> + +<p>There were several other excitements before I +left Teheran. The head Mullah—a most important +person—died, and the whole population +of Teheran turned out to do him honour when +his imposing funeral took place. Curiously +enough, the entire male Jewish community +marched in the funeral procession—an event +unprecedented, I am told, in the annals of Persian<a name="Pg_1-116" id="Pg_1-116"></a> +Mussulman history. The head Mullah, a man +of great wisdom and justice, had, it was said, +been very considerate towards the Jews and had +protected them against persecution: hence this +mark of respect and grief at his death.</p> + +<p>The discovery of the ex-Minister of War's +frauds, the death of the head Mullah, the reported +secret attempts to poison the Shah, the +prospects of a drought, the reported murder of +two Russians at Resht, and other minor sources +of discontent, all coming together, gave rise to +fears on the part of Europeans that a revolution +might take place in Teheran. But such rumours +are so very frequent in all Eastern countries that +generally no one attaches any importance to +them until it is too late. Europeans are rather +tolerated than loved in Persia, and a walk +through the native streets or bazaars in Teheran +is quite sufficient to convince one of the fact. +Nor are the Persians to be blamed, for there is +hardly a nation in Asia that has suffered more +often and in a more shameful manner from +European speculators and adventurers than the +land of Iran.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the country itself, or rather the people, +with their vainglory and empty pomp, are +particularly adapted to be victimised by impostors +and are easy preys to them. Some of the tricks +that have been played upon them do not lack +humour. Take, for instance, the pretty farce of +the <i>Compagnie générale pour l'éclairage et le +chauffage en Perse</i>, which undertook to light the +city of Teheran with no less than one thousand<a name="Pg_1-117" id="Pg_1-117"></a> +gas lights. Machinery was really imported at +great expense from Europe for the manufacture +of the gas—many of the heavier pieces of +machinery are still lying on the roadside between +Resht and Teheran—extensive premises were +built in Teheran itself, and an elaborate doorway +with a suitable inscription on it, is still to be +seen; but the most important part of all—the +getting of the coal from which the gas was to be +extracted—had not been considered. The Lalun +coal mines, which offered a gleam of hope to the +shareholders, were exploited and found practically +useless. The Company and Government came +to loggerheads, each accusing the other of false +dealing, and the result was that the Persians +insisted on the Company lighting up Teheran +with the agreed 1,000 lights. If gas could not +be manufactured, oil lights would do. There +was the signed agreement and the Company +must stick to it.</p> + +<p>The Company willingly agreed, but as the +document did not specify the site where each +lamp-post should be situate nearly all were +erected, at a distance of only a few feet from one +another—a regular forest of them—in the two +main streets of the European settlement.</p> + +<p>One single man is employed after dark to set +the lamps alight, and when he has got to the +end of the two streets he proceeds on his return +journey to blow them all out again. By ten +o'clock everything is in perfect darkness.</p> + +<p>The Company now claim that they have +fulfilled their agreement!<a name="Pg_1-118" id="Pg_1-118"></a></p> + +<p>The Belgian Company for the manufacture of +Beetroot Sugar was another example of how +speculations sometimes go wrong, and no wonder. +In theory the venture seemed quite sound, for +the consumption of sugar in Persia is large, and +if it had been possible to produce cheap sugar in +the country instead of importing it from Russia, +France and India, huge profits would have been +probable; but here again the same mistake was +made as by the gas company. The obtaining of +the raw material was neglected.</p> + +<p>The sugar refinery was built at great cost in +this case, too, machinery was imported to +manufacture the three qualities of sugar most +favoured by the Persians—loaf sugar, crystallised +sugar, and sugar-candy,—but all this was done +before ascertaining whether it was possible to +grow the right quality of beetroot in sufficient +quantities to make the concern pay. Theoretically +it was proved that it would be possible +to produce local sugar at a price which, while +leaving the Company a huge profit, would easily +beat Russian sugar, by which French and Indian +sugar have now been almost altogether supplanted.</p> + +<p>A model farm was actually started (and is still +in existence) near Shah-Abdul Azim, where beetroot +was to be grown in large quantities, the +experts declaring that the soil was better suited +for the crop than any to be found in Europe. +Somehow or other it did not answer as well as +expected. Moreover, the question of providing +coal for the engines proved—as in the case of the<a name="Pg_1-119" id="Pg_1-119"></a> +Gas Company—to be another serious stumbling +block. An attempt to overcome this difficulty +by joining with the Gas Company in working +the Lalun Mines was made, but, alas! proved +an expensive failure.</p> + +<p>Moreover, further difficulties were encountered +in obtaining the right manure for the beetroots, +in order that the acids, which delay crystallisation, +might be eliminated; and the inexperience, +carelessness and reluctance with which the +natives took up the new cultivation—and, as +it did not pay, eventually declined to go on +with it—render it by no means strange that +the sugar factory, too, which was to make the +fortunes of so many became a derelict enterprise.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-120" id="Pg_1-120"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Cash and wealth—Capital as understood by Persians—Hidden +fortunes—Forms of extravagance—Unbusiness-like qualities—Foreign +examples—Shaken confidence of natives in +foreigners—Greed for money—Small merchants—Illicit +ways of increasing wealth—The Persian a dreamer—Unpunctuality—Time +no money and no object—Hindrance to +reform—Currency—Gold, silver, and copper—Absorption of +silver—Drainage of silver into Transcaspia—Banknotes—The +fluctuations of the Kran—How the poorer classes are +affected by it—Coins old and new—Nickel coins—The +<i>Shai</i> and its subdivisions.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Persian does not understand the sound +principles on which alone extensive business can +be successful. Partly owing to prevailing circumstances +he is under the misapprehension that +hard cash is synonymous with wealth, and does +not differentiate between treasure, savings, and +savings transformed into capital. This is probably +the main cause of the present anaemic state +of business in the Shah's Empire. Thus, when we +are told there is in Persia enormous "capital" to +be invested, we are not correctly informed. There +are "enormous accumulations of wealth" lying +idle, but there is no "capital" in the true meaning +of the word. These huge sums in hard cash, +in jewellery, or bars of gold and silver, have been<a name="Pg_1-121" id="Pg_1-121"></a> +hidden for centuries in dark cellars, and for any +good they are to the country and commerce at +large might as well not exist at all.</p> + +<p>Partly owing to the covetousness of his neighbours, +partly owing to a racial and not unreasonable +diffidence of all around him, and to the fact +that an Asiatic always feels great satisfaction in +the knowledge that he has all his wealth within +his own reach and protection, rich men of Persia +take particular care to maintain the strictest +secrecy about their possessions, and to conceal +from the view of their neighbours any signs which +might lead them to suspect the accumulation +of any such wealth. We have already seen how +even the houses of the wealthiest are purposely +made humble outwardly so as to escape the notice +of rapacious officials, and it is indeed difficult to +distinguish from the outside between the house +of a millionaire and that of a common merchant.</p> + +<p>The Persian, it must be well understood, does +not hide his accumulated treasure from avaricious +reasons; on the contrary, his inclinations are +rather toward extravagance than otherwise, which +extravagance he can only satisfy under a mask +of endless lies and subterfuges. No honest ways +of employing his wealth in a business-like and +safe manner are open to the rich Persian under +the present public maladministration, nor have +the foreign speculations in the country offered +sufficient examples of success to induce natives +to embark upon them again. Far from it; these +enterprises have even made Persians more sceptical +and close than before, and have certainly not<a name="Pg_1-122" id="Pg_1-122"></a> +shown foreign ways of transacting business at +the best.</p> + +<p>That is why, no other way being open to him, +the Persian who does wish to get rid of his +wealth, prefers to squander his money, both +capital and income (the latter if he possesses +land), in luxurious jewellery and carpets, and +in unhealthy bribery and corruption, or in satisfying +caprices which his voluptuous nature may +suggest. The result? The Persian is driven to +live mostly for his vanity and frivolity—two +unbusiness-like qualities not tending to the promotion +of commercial enterprise on a large scale, +although it is true that in a small way his failings +give rise and life to certain industries. For +instance, even in remote, poor and small centres +where food is scarce and the buildings humble, +one invariably finds a goldsmith, filigree-workers +and embroidery makers, whereas the necessaries +of life may be more difficult to obtain.</p> + +<p>Of course Persia contains a comparatively small +number of Persians of a more adventurous nature, +men who have travelled abroad and have been +bitten with the Western desire for speculation to +increase their money with speed, if not always +with safety; but even these men have mostly +retired within their shells since the colossal <i>fiascos</i> +of the speculations started in Persia by foreign +"company promoters." A considerable number +of Persians, seduced by glowing prospectuses +and misplaced faith in everything foreign, were +dreadfully taken in by the novel experiments—everything +novel attracts the Persian considerably<a name="Pg_1-123" id="Pg_1-123"></a>—and +readily unearthed solid gold and silver +bars, that had lain for centuries in subterranean +hiding-places, and now came out to be converted +into shares in the various concerns, hardly +worth the paper on which they were printed, +but promising—according to the prospectus—to +bring the happy possessors fabulous incomes.</p> + +<p>We have seen how the Sugar Refinery, the +Glass Factory, the "Gas" Company—a more +appropriate name could not have been given—and +the ill-fated Mining Company have created +well-founded suspicion of foreign ways of increasing +one's capital, nor can we with any fairness +blame the Persians for returning to their old +method of slow accumulation. True enough, a +fortune, if discovered, has a fair possibility of +being seized in the lump by a greedy official, +but that is only a possibility; whereas, when +invested in some foreign speculations the loss +becomes a dead certainty! More even than +the actual loss of the money, the Persians who +burned their fingers by meddling with foreign +schemes felt the scorn of their friends, of whom +they had become the laughing stock.</p> + +<p>There is no doubt that to-day the confidence +of the natives towards foreigners has been very +much shaken, and excepting a few men whom +they well know, trust and respect, they regard +most Europeans as adventurers or thieves. The +"treasuring" of capital instead of the investment +of it is, therefore, one of the reasons why industries +in Persia seldom assume large proportions. +It is only the small merchant, content to make a<a name="Pg_1-124" id="Pg_1-124"></a> +humble profit, who can prosper in his own small +way while more extensive concerns are distrusted.</p> + +<p>But it must not be understood that Persians do +not care for money. There is, on the contrary, +hardly a race of people on the face of the earth +with whom the greed for money is developed to +such an abnormal extent as in all classes in the +land of Iran! But, you will ask, how can +money be procured or increased fast and without +trouble in a country where there is no commercial +enterprise, where labour is interfered with, where +capital cannot have a free outlet or investment? +An opening has to be found in illicit ways of +procuring wealth, and the most common form +adopted is the loan of money at high interest on +ample security. As much as 50 per cent., 80 per +cent., 100 per cent. and even more is demanded +and obtained as interest on private loans, 15 per +cent. being the very lowest and deemed most +reasonable indeed! (This does not apply to +foreign banks.) All this may seem strange in a +Mussulman country, where it is against all the +laws of the Koran to lend money at usury, and it +is more strange still to find that the principal +offenders are the Mullahs themselves, who reap +large profits from such illegal financial operations.</p> + +<p>The Persian is a dreamer by nature; he +cannot be said to be absolutely lazy, for he is +always absorbed in deep thought—what the +thoughts are it does not do to analyse too +closely—but he devotes so much time to think<a name="Pg_1-125" id="Pg_1-125"></a>ing +that he seldom can do anything else. His +mind—like the minds of all people unaccustomed +to hard work and steady, solidly-built enterprise—runs +to the fantastic, and he ever expects immense +returns for doing nothing. The returns, +if any, and no matter how large they may be, +are ever too small to satisfy his expectations.</p> + +<p>As for time, there is no country where it is +worth less than to the natives of Persia. The +<i>mañana</i> of the Spaniards sinks into perfect insignificance +when compared with the habits of +the land of Iran. Punctuality is unknown—especially +in payments, for a Persian must take +time to reflect over everything. He cannot be +hurried. A three months' limit of credit—or +even six months—seems outrageously short in +the eyes of Persians. Twelve months and eighteen, +twenty, or twenty-four months suit him +better, but even then he is never ready to pay, +unless under great pressure. He does disburse +the money in the end, capital and interest, but +why people should worry over time, and why +it should matter whether payment occurs to-day +or to-morrow are quite beyond him.</p> + +<p>If he does transact business, days are wasted in +useless talk and compliments before the subject +with which he intends to deal is incidentally +approached in conversation, and then more hours +and days and weeks, even months have to elapse +before he can make up his mind what to do. +Our haste, and what we consider smartness in +business, are looked upon by the Persian as quite +an acute form of lunacy,—and really, when one<a name="Pg_1-126" id="Pg_1-126"></a> +is thrown much in contact with such delightful +placidity, almost torpor, and looks back upon one's +hard race for a living and one's struggle and +competition in every department, one almost +begins to fancy that we are lunatics after all!</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-13.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-13_th.jpg" alt="The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia." title="The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia.</p> + +<p>The Persian must have his hours for praying, +his hours for ablutions, more hours for meditation, +and the rest for sleep and food. Whether +you hasten or not, he thinks, you will only live +the number of years that God wills for you, and +you will live those years in the way that He has +destined for you. Each day will be no longer and +no shorter, your life no sadder and no happier. +Why then hurry?</p> + +<p>Amid such philosophic views, business in +European fashion does not promise to prosper.</p> + +<p>Unable to attach a true meaning to words—his +language is beautiful but its flowery form +conduces to endless misunderstandings—casual +to a degree in fulfilling work as he has stipulated +to do it; such is the Persian of to-day. Whether +the vicissitudes of his country, the fearful wars, +the famines, the climate, the official oppression +have made him so, or whether he has always +been so, is not easy to tell, but that is how he +is now.</p> + +<p>Besides all this, each man is endowed with a +maximum of ambition and conceit, each individual +fully believing himself the greatest man +that ever lived and absolute perfection. Moreover +the influence of Mullahs is used to oppose +reform and improvement, so that altogether +the economic development of production, distri<a name="Pg_1-127" id="Pg_1-127"></a>bution +and circulation of capital is bound to be +hampered to no mean extent. On examining +things carefully it seems almost astonishing that +the trade of Persia should be as well developed +as it is.</p> + +<p>Another difficulty in the way is the currency, +which offers some interesting lessons, and I am +indebted to the author of a paper read before +the Statistical Society for the following details.</p> + +<p>Gold is not produced in Persia. Bar gold is +imported in very small quantities only. Gold +coin is a mere commodity—is quite scarce, and +is mostly used for presents and hoarding. It is +minted principally from Russian Imperials and +Turkish pounds which drift into Persia in small +quantities in the course of business. Goldsmiths, +too, in their work, make use of foreign coins, +although some gold and silver bullion is imported +for manufacturing purposes.</p> + +<p>Silver, too, is not obtainable in Persia except +in very small quantities, and the imported silver +comes from Great Britain, <i>via</i> the Gulf or <i>via</i> +Hamburg and Russia. In the year 1901 the +Persian Government, in connection with the +Russian Loan, imported some three million +tomans' worth of silver to be minted, and the +Imperial Bank of Persia another million tomans; +while some 500,000 tomans more were brought +into the country by other importers. But under +normal circumstances the annual output hardly +ever exceeds three to four million tomans. In +1900 it was something between 2,000,000 and +2,500,000 tomans.<a name="Pg_1-128" id="Pg_1-128"></a></p> + +<p>The Mint—like all other institutions of Persia—is +in a tumbling-down condition, with an +ancient plant (1877) so obsolete and worn as to +be almost useless. Partly owing to the insufficient +production of coin, partly because of the +export in great quantities of Persian silver +coin into Transcaspia, and, last but not least, +owing to the Persian custom of "making a +corner" by speculators, the commercial centres +of Persia suffer from a normal dearth of silver +coins. Persian silver coin has for the foregoing +reasons a purchasing power of sometimes 20 per +cent. beyond its intrinsic value. In distant cities, +like Yezd or Kerman, it is difficult to obtain +large sums in silver coin at face value, as it +disappears into the villages almost as soon as it +arrives by caravan or post. New coin is generally +in great demand and commands a premium.</p> + +<p>So the yearly drain of silver coin from Teheran +as soon as it is minted is very considerable, +especially to the north, north-east and north-west +provinces. This coin does not circulate +but is almost entirely absorbed and never reappears, +the people themselves holding it, as we +have seen, as treasure, and huge quantities finding +their way into Transcaspia and eventually +into Afghanistan, where Persian coin is current +and at a premium, especially on the border land.</p> + +<p>In Transcaspia Persian coin is cherished because +the nominally equivalent Persian coin +contains a much larger quantity of silver than +the Russian. Russian silver is a mere token of +currency, or, at best, stands midway between a<a name="Pg_1-129" id="Pg_1-129"></a> +token and a standard or international currency, +and its difference when compared with the +Persian coin amounts to no less than 21.92 per +cent. in favour of the Persian. Persian coin, +although defective and about 2 per cent. below +legal weight and fineness, is a standard or international +currency.</p> + +<p>It appears that a good deal of the silver exported +into Transcaspia finds its way to Chinese +Turkestan, where it is converted into bars and +ingots, and is used for the inland trade to China. +The Russian Government have done all in their +power to prevent the competition of Persian and +Russian coins in their Transcaspian provinces. +A decree was issued some eleven years ago +forbidding the importation, and in 1897 a +second Ukase further prohibited foreign silver +from entering the country after the 13th of May +(1st of May of our calendar), and a duty of +about 20 per cent. was imposed on silver crossing +the frontier. All this has resulted in silver +entering the provinces by smuggling instead of +openly, but it finds its way there in large quantities +just the same as before.</p> + +<p>The Government of Persia does not issue +bank-notes, which would be regarded with +suspicion among the people, but it is interesting +to find that the monopoly granted to the +Imperial Bank of Persia for the issue of paper +money has had excellent results, in Teheran +particularly, where the Bank is held in high +esteem and the notes have been highly appreciated. +In other cities of Persia which I visited,<a name="Pg_1-130" id="Pg_1-130"></a> +however, the notes did not circulate, and were +only accepted at the Bank's agencies and in the +bazaar by some of the larger merchants at a +small discount.</p> + +<p>Naturally, with the methods adopted by +Persians, and the insecurity which prevails +everywhere, the process of convincing the +natives that a piece of printed paper is equivalent +to so many silver krans, and that the silver +krans will surely be produced in full on demand +is rather a slow one; but the credit of the +Imperial Bank and the popular personality +of Mr. Rabino, the manager, have done much +towards dispelling the suspicions, and since 1890 +the notes have assumed a considerable place in +the circulation. In September 1890 the <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'circulalation'">circulation</ins> +of them amounted to 29,000 tomans; in +1895 it had gradually increased to 254,000 +tomans, and by leaps and bounds had reached the +sum of 1,058,000 in 1900.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> It is rather curious +to note that in the previous year, 1899, the note +circulation was 589,000 tomans, and became very +nearly double in the following twelve months.</p> + +<p>This only applies to Teheran and the principal +cities; in the villages, and in out-of-the-way +towns, notes are out of the question, and even +silver coins are very scarce. A two-kran piece +of the newer type is seldom found, and only one-kran +pieces, little irregular lumps of silver, are +occasionally to be seen. Copper is really the +currency and is a mere subsidiary or token +coinage with a value fluctuating according to<a name="Pg_1-131" id="Pg_1-131"></a> +local dearth or other causes at almost every place +one goes to.</p> + +<p>The precarious system of farming, accompanied +by the corruption of officials, has given an opportunity +for most frequent and flagrant abuses +in the excessive over-issue of copper coin, so that +in many cities copper issued at the nominal value +of 20 shais per kran was current at 30, 40, 50, +and even, in Eastern Persia, at 80 shais per kran. +I myself, on travelling through Persia, never +knew exactly what a kran was worth, as in +almost every province I received a different +exchange of shais for my krans. In Birjand +and Sistan, particularly, the exchange differed +very considerably.</p> + +<p>This state of maladministration affects the +poorer classes, for the copper currency forms +their entire fortune. On coming to the throne +the present Shah, with praiseworthy thoughtfulness, +endeavoured to put a stop to this cause of +misery in his people, and ordered the Government +to withdraw some 720,000 tomans' worth of +copper coins at 25 to 30 shais per kran. This +had a good effect, and although much of the +depreciated coin is still in circulation, particularly +in out-of-the-way places, its circulation in the +larger towns has been considerably diminished.</p> + +<p>Lately the Government has adopted the +measure of supplying the public with nickel +coins, one-shai and two-shai pieces, which, +although looked at askance at first, are now +found very handy by the natives and circulate +freely, principally in Resht, Kasvin, Teheran and<a name="Pg_1-132" id="Pg_1-132"></a> +Isfahan. In other cities I did not see any, nor +would the natives accept mine in payment, and +in villages no one would have anything to do +with them as they were absolutely unknown. +But wherever it has been possible to commence +the circulation of these nickel coins—which +were struck at the Brussels Mint and which are +quite pretty—they have been accepted with +great pleasure.</p> + +<p>The old gold coins in circulation in Persia—very +few and far apart—were the toman, half-toman, +and two-kran piece. The gold had a +legal fineness of 990. The legal weight in grains +troy was: toman, 53.28; half-toman, 26.64; +two-kran piece, 10.656. Weight in pure gold; +toman, 51.7572; half-toman, 26.3736; two-kran +piece, 10.54944.</p> + +<p>The new coins are the two-tomans, one-toman +(differentiated in 1879 and subsequent to 1879), +half-toman and two-kran pieces, the gold having +a legal fineness of 900. Legal weight:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Legal weight of coins"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center'> > Two tomans. </td><td align='center'>One toman.<br />1879.</td><td align='center'>One toman.<br />Subsequent to 1879.</td><td align='center' valign='bottom'> Half toman. </td><td align='center' valign='bottom'> Two kran piece. </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grains troy</td><td align='right'>100.64 </td><td align='right'>50.32 </td><td align='center'>44.40</td><td align='center'>22.20</td><td align='left'>8.88</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Weight in pure gold</td><td align='right'>90.576</td><td align='right'>45.288</td><td align='center'>39.96</td><td align='center'>19.98</td><td align='left'>7.992</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The new silver coinage consists of 2-kran +pieces (five of which make a toman), one-kran, +half-kran, and quarter-kran, all keeping to the +legal fineness of 900 as in the older coins struck +from 1857 to 1878:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Weights of coins"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center'>Two krans.</td><td align='center'>One kran.</td><td align='center'>Half kran.</td><td align='center'>Quarter kran.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Legal weight (grains troy)</td><td align='right'>142.08 </td><td align='right'>71.04 </td><td align='right'>30.52 </td><td align='right'>15.26 </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Weight in grains silver</td><td align='right'>127.872</td><td align='right'>63.936</td><td align='right'>27.468</td><td align='right'>13.734</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p><a name="Pg_1-133" id="Pg_1-133"></a></p> + +<p>The 1857 to 1878 coins were merely one-kran, +half-kran, quarter-kran:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Weights of coins"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center'>One kran.</td><td align='center'>Half kran.</td><td align='center'>Quarter kran.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Legal weight</td><td align='right'>76.96 </td><td align='right'>38.48 </td><td align='right'>19.24 </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Weight in pure silver</td><td align='right'>69.264</td><td align='right'>34.632</td><td align='right'>17.316</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The older coinage before 1857, a most irregular +coin—of one kran—varied considerably +and had an approximate average fineness of 855, +an average weight (grains troy) of 75.88, and a +weight in pure silver of grains troy 64.877, which +is below the correct standard by no less than 6.76 +per cent.</p> + +<p>In the newest coinage of two-kran pieces, the +coin most used in cities,—large payments being +always made in two-kran pieces—we have an +average fineness of 892.166; average weight, +grains troy, <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads '1 9.771'">119.771</ins>; weight in pure silver, +grains troy, 124.69, or 2.55 per cent. below the +standard.</p> + +<p>In nickel coinage, composed of 25 per cent. of +nickel and 75 per cent. of copper, we have:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Weights of coins"> +<tr><td align='left'>Two shai pieces (grains troy)</td><td align='right'>69.45</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One shai pieces (grains troy)</td><td align='right'>46.30</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The copper coins are in great variety. There +is the <i>abassi</i> (one-fifth of a kran) worth four +shais, and very scarce now.</p> + +<p>The <i>sadnar</i> (one-tenth of a kran) equivalent to +two shais.</p> + +<p>The (one) <i>shai</i> (one-twentieth of a kran).</p> + +<p>The <i>pul</i> (one-fortieth of a kran), half a shai.</p> + +<p>And the <i>jendek</i> (one-eightieth of a kran) a +quarter shai; this coin only found in circulation +in Khorassan.<a name="Pg_1-134" id="Pg_1-134"></a></p> + +<p>When it is remembered that at the present +rate of exchange the kran can be reckoned at +fivepence in English money, and the toman +as roughly equivalent to one American dollar, it +will be seen that the subdivisions of the kran +are rather minute for the average European +mind.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-14.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-14_th.jpg" alt="The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday." title="The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday.</p> + +<p>Yet there are things that one can buy even for +a <i>jendek</i>; think of it,—the fourth part of a +farthing! But that is only in Khorassan.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> I understand this figure has since considerably increased.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-135" id="Pg_1-135"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XIV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Banks of Persia—The Imperial Bank of Persia—The +most revered foreigner in Persia—Loans—The road concession—The +action of the Stock Exchange injurious to +British interests—Securities—Brains and not capital—Risks +of importing capital—An ideal banking situation—Hoarding—Defective +communication—The key to profitable +banking in Persia—How the exchange is affected—Coins—Free +trade—The Russian Bank and Mr. De Witte—Mr. +Grube an able Manager—Healthy competition—Support +of the Russian Government.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Banks of Persia can be divided into three +classes. One, containing the smaller native +bankers, who often combine the jeweller's business +with that of the money changer; the larger +and purely native banking businesses, and then +the foreign banks, such as the Imperial Bank of +Persia (English Bank), the Banque d'Escompte +et de Prêts (Russian Bank) and the Agency of +the Banque Internationale de Commerce de +Moscow (Banque Poliakoff). There are other +foreign firms too, such as Ziegler and Co., Hotz, +the Persian Gulf Trading Co., etc., which +transact banking to a limited extent besides +their usual and principal trading business; but +these are not banks proper.</p> + +<p>The Imperial Bank of Persia, being a purely<a name="Pg_1-136" id="Pg_1-136"></a> +British enterprise, is the most interesting to us. Its +main offices are in a most impressive building in +the principal square of Teheran, and it has branch +offices at Tabriz, Isfahan, Meshed, Yezd, Shiraz, +in the Teheran Bazaar, at Bushire and Kermanshah. +It would be useless to go into the +various vicissitudes through which the Bank has +passed since it was first started, and the difficulties +which it encountered in meeting the unusual +ways of doing business of Persians and satisfying +the desires of directors and shareholders in simple +London town. One thing is, nevertheless, certain, +and that is that if the Imperial Bank of +Persia maintains the prestige now belonging +to it, it owes this to Mr. Rabino, of Egyptian +fame, the Manager of the Bank,—without exception +the most revered foreigner in Persia.</p> + +<p>I will not touch on the sore question of the +Persian loans, eventually secured by Russia, but, +curiously enough, the capital of the first loan, at +least, was in great measure practically transferred +from Russia to Persia by the Imperial Bank, +which had the greatest stock of money in +Teheran; nor shall I go into the successful and +unsuccessful ventures of the Bank, such as the +Road Concession, and the Mining Corporation. +As to the road concession, it is beyond doubt that +had the Bank not become alarmed, and had +they held on a little longer, the venture might +have eventually paid, and paid well. But +naturally, in a slow country like Persia, nothing +can be a financial success unless it is given time +to develop properly.<a name="Pg_1-137" id="Pg_1-137"></a></p> + +<p>With regard to its relation with the Banque +d'Escompte et de Prêts, the Russian Bank—believed +by some to be a dangerous rival—matters +may to my mind be seen in two aspects. +I believe that the Russian Bank, far from damaging +the Imperial Bank, has really been a godsend +to it, as it has relieved it by sharing advances to +the Government which in time might have +proved somewhat of a burden on one establishment. +It is a mistake, too, to believe that in a +country like Persia there is not room for two +large concerns like the two above-mentioned +Banks, and that one or the other is bound +to go.</p> + +<p>The rumoured enormous successes of the +Russian Bank and its really fast-increasing +prestige are indisputable, but the secret of these +things is well known to the local management +of the Imperial Bank, which could easily follow +suit and quickly surpass the Russians if more +official and political support were forthcoming.</p> + +<p>The action of the London Stock Exchange in +depreciating everything Persian, for the sake of +reprisal, is also injurious to the Bank, and more +so to the prestige of this country, though we do +not seem to see that our attitude has done much +more harm to ourselves than to the Persians. It +is true that Persia is a maladministered country, +that there is corruption, that there is intrigue, +and so forth, but is there any other country, +may I ask, where to a greater or smaller extent +the same accusation could not be made? Nor +can we get away from the fact that although<a name="Pg_1-138" id="Pg_1-138"></a> +Persia has been discredited on the London market +it is one of the few countries in which the national +debt is extremely small and can easily be met.</p> + +<p>The obligations of the Imperial Government +and of Muzaffer-ed-din Shah's signature, have +never failed to be met, nor has the payment of +full interest on mortgages contracted ever been +withheld. Delays may have occurred, but everything +has come right in the end. Our absurd +attitude towards the Persians, when we are at +the same time ready to back up enterprises +that certainly do not afford one-tenth of the +security to be found in Persia, is therefore rather +difficult to understand.</p> + +<p>There are few countries in which so much +can be done with a comparatively small outlay +as in Persia. It is not enterprises on a gigantic +scale, nor millions of pounds sterling that are +needed; moderate sums handled with judgment, +knowledge and patient perseverance, would produce +unlooked-for results. Large imported sums +of capital in hard cash are not wanted and would +involve considerable risk. First of all, stands +the danger of the depreciation of capital by the +fall in silver and the gradual rise in exchange +due to the excess of imports over exports. +Then comes the narrowness of the Persian +markets which renders the return of large sums +in cash an extremely long and difficult operation; +and last but not least, the serious fact that capital +is generally imported at a loss, inasmuch as the +intrinsic value of the kran is much below its +exchange value.<a name="Pg_1-139" id="Pg_1-139"></a></p> + +<p>The ideal situation of an English Bank trading +with the East,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> is when its capital remains in +gold, whilst its operations are conducted in silver +by means of its deposits. This, because of the +instability in the price of silver as compared with +that of gold, and the risks which follow upon +holding a metal fluctuating in value almost daily. +The situation in Persia, partly owing to the +constant appreciation of the Persian currency, +due to the great dearth of silver produced by +hoarding as well as by the export of coin to +Central Asia, is quite suitable to the system of +banking indicated above.</p> + +<p>The difference between the intrinsic and the +exchange value of the kran, notwithstanding the +constant demand for exchange, is quite worthy +of note. Political preoccupation is the principal +cause of the hoarding system in Government +circles, and in the masses the absence of banking +organisations in which the natives have sufficient +confidence to deposit their savings. Slowly but +surely the Persian is beginning to feel the good +effects of depositing his money in a European-managed +Bank offering sound guarantees, and it +is certain that in time all the money required for +trade purposes will be found in Persia itself.</p> + +<p>When better communication between the +various commercial centres has been established, +the distribution of the funds as required, now a +matter of great difficulty and risk, will be greatly +facilitated. When the despatching of sums from +one city to another instead of taking minutes by<a name="Pg_1-140" id="Pg_1-140"></a> +telegraph or hours by post occupy, under normal +circumstances, days, weeks, a month or even +more, because the payments are made in solid +silver which has to travel by caravan, it is easy +to understand how the dangerous system of +hoarding comes to be practised with impunity +and facility all over Persia.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-15.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-15_th.jpg" alt="A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.)" title="A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">A Typical Persian Window.</span> (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.)</p> + +<p>Of course every precaution is taken to foresee +abnormal scarcity of funds, by sending specie to +the places threatened, in order to help trade. +During the summer months, for instance, most +of the floating capital is absorbed in the provinces +by the opium crop in the Yezd and Isfahan +markets, when the silver krans find their way <i>en +masse</i> to the villages, much to the inconvenience +of the two cities. In the autumn a similar +occurrence hampers trade during the export +season of dried fruit and silk from Azerbaijan +and Ghilan, the exchange falling very low +owing to scarcity of money.</p> + +<p>A very important item in the Bank's transactions +in Persia is the constant demand for +remittances of revenue to Teheran for Government +purposes, such as payments for the army, +officials, etc., and these remittances amount to +very large sums.</p> + +<p>The key to profitable banking in Persia is the +arbitration of foreign exchanges, which being +so intimately connected with internal exchange +allows the latter to be worked at a profit, advantage +being taken of breaks in the level of +prices; but of course, with the introduction of +telegraphs and in future of railways, these<a name="Pg_1-141" id="Pg_1-141"></a> +profits will become more and more difficult to +make. In Persia the lack of quick communication +still affords a fair chance of good remuneration +without speculation for the important +services rendered by a bank to trade.</p> + +<p>The exchange of Persia upon London is +specially affected by two influences. In the +north by the value of the ruble, the more important +and constant factor, Tabriz, the Persian +centre of the Russian exchange, being the +nearest approach in Persia to a regular market; +and in the south by the rupee exchange, which +differs from the ruble in its being dependent +upon the price of silver.</p> + +<p>In a country like Persia, where the exchange +is not always obtainable and money at times is +not to be procured, it is easy to conceive the +difficulty of a bank. Forecasts of movements, +based on general causes, are of little or no value +in Persia. To this must be added the difficulties +of examining and counting coins—weighing is +not practicable owing to the irregularity of each +coin—of the transmission of funds to distant +places, and the general ignorance except in +mercantile circles—of banking methods as we +understand them.</p> + +<p>The Imperial Bank is established in Persia, +not as is believed by some persons to do business +for England and English people, but to do business +with everybody. "The spirit of free trade +alone," said Mr. Rabino to me, "must animate +the management of such a bank. Its services +must be at the disposal of all; its impartiality to<a name="Pg_1-142" id="Pg_1-142"></a> +English, Russian, Austrian, Persian, or whatever +nationality a customer may belong to, unquestioned. +All must have a fair and generous +treatment." The interests of the Imperial Bank +are firstly those of its shareholders, secondly +those of Persia which gives the Bank hospitality.</p> + +<p>The Bank has already rendered inestimable +services to Persia by diffusing sound business +principles, which the Persians seem slowly but +gladly to learn and accept. That the future of a +bank on such true principles is bound to be +crowned with success seems a certainty, but as +has often been pointed out, it would be idle +to fancy that a couple of years or three will +remove the prejudices and peculiar ways of +thinking and of transacting business of an Oriental +race, whose civilisation is so different from ours, +or that the natives will accept our financial +system with its exactitude and punctuality, the +result of ages of experience, unhesitatingly and +immediately.</p> + +<p>The Persian requires very careful handling. +He is obstinate, and by mere long, tedious, +passive resistance will often get the better in a +bargain. By the employment of similar methods +however, it is not difficult to obtain one's way in +the end. A good deal of patience is required +and time <i>ad libitum</i>, that is all.</p> + +<p>There is no need for a large stock of gold and +rubles, but what is mostly wanted is a greater +number of men who might be sent all over +the country, men with good business heads +and a polite manner, and, above all, men well<a name="Pg_1-143" id="Pg_1-143"></a> +suited to the present requirements of the +country.</p> + +<p>The Russian, we find,—contrary to our +popular ideas, which ever depict him knut in +hand,—almost fraternises with the Asiatics, and +in any case treats them with due consideration as +if they had a right to live, at least in their own +country. Hence his undoubted popularity. But +we, the quintessence of Christianity and charity +towards our neighbours, habitually treat natives +with much needless harshness and reserve, which +far from impressing the natives with our dignity—as +we think—renders us ridiculous in their +eyes. A number of younger Englishmen are +beginning to be alive to this fact, and instruction +on this point should form part of the commercial +training of our youths whose lives are to be spent +in the East.</p> + +<p>The other important bank in Persia upon +which great hopes are built, although worked on +different lines, is the so-called Russian Bank, the +<i>Société de Prêts de Perse</i>, as it was at first called +when founded by Poliakoff in 1891. It was an +experiment intended to discover exactly what +was wanted in the country and what was the +best way to attract business. The monopoly +of Public Auctions was obtained in conjunction +with the Mont-de-Piété—a scheme which did +not work very well at first, the natives not being +accustomed to sudden innovations. The concern +subsequently developed into the <i>Bank Estekrasi</i> +(Bank of Loans), or <i>Banque de Prêts de Perse</i>, +as it styled itself, but financially it did not pay,<a name="Pg_1-144" id="Pg_1-144"></a> +and at one moment was expected to liquidate. +It is said that it then threatened to amalgamate +with the Imperial Bank. Mr. De Witte, of St. +Petersburg fame, was consulted in the matter, +and took exactly twenty-four hours to make up +his mind on what was the best course to pursue. +He bought the bank up, the State Bank of St. +Petersburg making an advance on the shares. +The Minister of Finance has a right to name +all the officials in the bank, who, for appearance +sake, are not necessarily all of Russian nationality, +and the business is transacted on the same lines +as at the State Bank of St. Petersburg.</p> + +<p>A most efficient man was sent out as manager; +Mr. Grube, a gentleman of much tact and most +attractive manner, and like Mr. Rabino—a +genius in his way at finance; a man with a +thorough knowledge of the natives and their +ways. In the short time he has been in Teheran +the bank has made enormous strides, by mere +sound, business capability and manly, straightforward +enterprise.</p> + +<p>Mr. Grube has, I think, the advantage of +the manager of the Imperial Bank in the fact +that, when the Russians know they have a good +man at the helm, they let him steer his ship +without interference. He is given absolute +power to do what he thinks right, and is in no +way hampered by shareholders at home. This +freedom naturally gives him a very notable advantage +over the Imperial Bank, which always +has to wait for instructions from London.</p> + +<p>Mr. Grube, with whom I had a long and<a name="Pg_1-145" id="Pg_1-145"></a> +most interesting conversation, told me how he +spends his days in the bazaar branch of his bank, +where he studies the ways and future possibilities +of the country and its natives, and the best ways +of transacting business compatible with European +principles, and in particular carefully analysing the +best ways of pushing Russian trade and industries +in Persia. In all this he has the absolute +confidence and help of his Government, and it is +really marvellous how much he has been able to +do to further Russian influence in Persia. There +is no trickery, no intrigue, no humbug about it; +but it is mere frank, open competition in which +the stronger nation will come out first.</p> + +<p>It was most gratifying to hear in what glowing +terms of respect the managers of the two +rival banks spoke of each other. They were +fighting a financial duel, bravely, fairly, and in a +most gentlemanly manner on both sides. There +was not the slightest shade of false play on either +side, and this I specially mention because of the +absurd articles which one often sees in English +papers, written by hasty or ill-informed correspondents.</p> + +<p>Russia's trade, owing to its convenient geographical +position, is bound to beat the English +in Northern Persia, but it should be a good +lesson to us to see, nevertheless, how the Russian +Government comes forward for the protection +of the trade of the country, and does everything +in its power to further it. Russia will even go +so far as to sell rubles at a loss to merchants in +order to encourage trade in Persia, no doubt with<a name="Pg_1-146" id="Pg_1-146"></a> +the certainty in sight that as trade develops the +apparent temporary loss will amply be compensated +in due time by big profits.</p> + +<p>It is, to an Englishman, quite an eye-opener +to watch how far the Russians will go for the +absolute benefit of their own trade, and this +conduct pursued openly and blamelessly can only +be admired by any fair-minded person. It is +only a pity that we are not yet wide awake +enough to do the same.</p> + +<p>The Russian Bank has branches in the principal +cities of Northern Persia, her business being +so far merely confined to the North.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> See Institute of Bankers.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-147" id="Pg_1-147"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Illegitimate Bank-notes—Hampering the Bank's work—The +grand fiasco of the Tobacco Corporation—Magnificent +behaviour of the natives—The Mullahs and tobacco—The +nation gives up smoking—Suppression of the monopoly—Compensation—Want +of tact—Important European commercial +houses and their work—Russian and British trade—Trade +routes—The new Persian Customs—What they +are represented to be and what they are—Duties—The +employment of foreigners in Persia—The Maclean +incident.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> work of the Imperial Bank has at various +times been hampered by speculators who tried +to make money by misleading the public. +Their speculations were always based on the +prestige of the bank. For instance, take the +Bushire Company and the Fars Trading Company, +Limited, companies started by native +merchants. They illegally issued bank-notes +which, strangely enough, owing to the security +found in the Imperial bank-notes, found no +difficulty in circulating at a small discount, +especially in Shiraz.</p> + +<p>Naturally, the Imperial Bank, having in its +conventions with the Persian Government the +exclusive right to issue bank-notes payable at +sight, protested against this infringement of<a name="Pg_1-148" id="Pg_1-148"></a> +rights, but for a long time got little redress, and +some of the fraudulent bank-notes are to this +day circulating in Southern Persia.</p> + +<p>Sooner or later this was bound to interfere +with the bank, as the natives, unaccustomed to +bank-notes, confused the ones with the others. +Moreover, the enemies of the bank took +advantage of this confusion to instigate the +people against the Imperial Bank, making them +believe that the word "Imperial" on the bank-notes +meant that the issuing of bank-notes +was only a new scheme of the Government to +supply people with worthless paper instead of a +currency of sound silver cash. In the southern +provinces this stupid belief spread very rapidly, +and was necessarily accentuated by the issue of +the illegal bank-notes of local private concerns, +which, although bearing foreign names, were +merely Persian undertakings.</p> + +<p>Necessarily, the many foreign speculations to +which we have already referred, cannot be said +to have strengthened confidence in anything of +European importation; but the grand successive +abortions of the Belgian and Russian factories—which +were to make gas, sugar, glass, matches, +etc.—are hardly to be compared in their disastrous +results to the magnificent English fiasco +of the Tobacco Corporation, which not only +came to grief itself, but nearly caused a revolution +in the country. It is well-known how a +concession was obtained by British capitalists +in 1890 to establish a tobacco monopoly in +Persia, which involved the usual payment of a<a name="Pg_1-149" id="Pg_1-149"></a> +large sum to the Shah, and presents to high +officials.</p> + +<p>The company made a start on a very grand +scale in February, 1891, having the whole +monopoly of purchase and sale of tobacco all +over Persia. No sooner had it begun its work +than a commission of injured native merchants +presented a petition to the Shah to protest +against it. A decree was, however, published +establishing the monopoly of the corporation all +over Persia, and upon this the discontent and +signs of rebellion began.</p> + +<p>Yet this affair of the tobacco monopoly +showed what fine, dignified people the Persians +can be if they choose. The want of tact, the +absolute mismanagement and the lack of knowledge +in dealing with the natives, the ridiculous +notion that coercion would at once force the +Persians to accept the tobacco supplied by the +Corporation, fast collected a dense cloud of +danger overhead. Teheran and the other larger +cities were placarded with proclamations instigating +the crowds to murder Europeans and do +away with their work.</p> + +<p>But the Persians, notwithstanding their threats, +showed themselves patient, and confident that +the Shah would restore the nation to its former +happiness. In the meantime the company's +agents played the devil all over the empire. It +seems incredible, even in the annals of Persian +history, that so little lack of judgment could +have been shown towards the natives.</p> + +<p>The Mullahs saw an excellent opportunity to<a name="Pg_1-150" id="Pg_1-150"></a> +undo in a few days the work of Europeans +of several scores of years. "Allah," they +preached to the people, "forbids you to +smoke or touch the impure tobacco sold you +by Europeans." On a given day the Mugte +halh, or high priest of sacred Kerbalah, declared +that the faithful throughout the country must +touch tobacco no more; tobacco, the most +cherished of Persian indulgences.</p> + +<p>Mirza Hassan Ashtiani, <i>mujtehed</i> of Teheran, +on whom the Shah relied to pacify the crowds +now in flagrant rebellion, openly preached against +his Sovereign and stood by the veto of his superior +priest at Kerbalah. He went further and +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'exorted'">exhorted</ins> the people to cease smoking, not because +tobacco was impure, but because the Koran says +that it is unlawful to make use of any article +which is not fairly dealt in by all alike.</p> + +<p>At a given date all through the Shah's +dominions—and this shows a good deal of +determination—the foreigner and his tobacco +were to be treated with contempt. Tobacco +was given up by all. In the bazaars, in the +caravanserais, in the streets, in the houses, where +under ordinary circumstances every man puffed +away at a <i>kalian</i>, a <i>chibuk</i> (small pocket-pipe) or +cigarette, not a single soul could be seen smoking +for days and days. Only the Shah made a point +of smoking in public to encourage the people, +but even his wife and concubines—at the risk of +incurring disfavour—refused to smoke, and +smashed the <i>kalians</i> before his eyes. In house-holds +where the men—ever weaker than women<a name="Pg_1-151" id="Pg_1-151"></a>—could, +after weeks of abstinence, not resist the +temptation in secrecy, their wives destroyed the +pipes.</p> + +<p>For several weeks not a single individual +touched tobacco—a most dignified protest which +quite terrified the Shah and everybody, for, +indeed, it was apparent that people so strong-willed +were not to be trifled with.</p> + +<p>In many places the natives broke out into +rebellion, and many lives were lost. Nasr-ed-din +Shah, frightened and perplexed, called the +high Mullah of Teheran to the palace (January +5th-6th, 1892). By his advice the tobacco +monopoly was there and then abolished by an +Imperial Decree, and the privileges granted for +the sale and export of tobacco revoked. +Furthermore, the Mullah only undertook to +pacify the people on condition that all foreign +enterprises and innovations in Persia should be +suppressed; that all people imprisoned during +the riots should be freed, and the families of +those killed fully indemnified.</p> + +<p>The sudden end of the Tobacco Corporation +necessarily led to much correspondence with the +British Minister, Sir Frank Lascelles, on the +question of compensation and damages to the +company which, depending on its monopoly, +had entered into agreements, and had already +paid out large sums of money. It was finally +agreed that the Shah should pay £500,000 +sterling compensation, and take over the assets +of the company, supposed to be some £140,000, +subject to realisation.<a name="Pg_1-152" id="Pg_1-152"></a></p> + +<p>With the assistance of the Bank of Persia, +a six per cent. loan was issued, which was taken +up principally by the shareholders of the Tobacco +Corporation. The interest and the sinking fund +of this loan were punctually met until the year +1900 when it was repaid in full on the conclusion +of the Russian loan.</p> + +<p>In England this failure seems to have been +ascribed to Russian intrigue, but it must in all +fairness be said that had the Russians tried a +similar scheme in a similar manner, they would +have fared even worse than we did. Even +Persian concerns established on European principles +have serious troubles to contend with; but +it was madness to believe that an entire Eastern +nation could, at a moment's notice, be forced to +accept—in a way most offensive to them—such +an article of primary use as tobacco, which, +furthermore, was offered at a higher price than +their own tobaccos which they liked better.</p> + +<p>There are in Persia a few important European +commercial houses, such as Ziegler and Co., and +Hotz and Son, which have extensive dealings +with Persians. Ziegler and Co. deal in English +imports and in the exportation of carpets, etc., +whereas Hotz and Son import Russian articles, +which they find cheaper and of easier sale. +Both are eminently respectable firms, and enjoy +the esteem of everybody.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the Swiss name, Ziegler and +Co. is an English firm, although, as far as I +know, it has not a single English employee in its +various branches in Persia. The reason, as we<a name="Pg_1-153" id="Pg_1-153"></a> +have seen, is that foreigners are considered more +capable. It has in the various cities some very +able Swiss agents, who work most sensibly and +excellently, and who certainly manage to make +the best of whatever business there is to be done +in the country. For over thirty years the house +has been established in Persia, having begun its +life at Tabriz and then extended to Teheran, +Resht, Meshed, Isfahan, Yezd—the latter so far +a non-important branch—and Shiraz, Bushire, +Bandar Abbas and Bagdad, where it has correspondents +working for the firm.</p> + +<p>The house imports large quantities of Manchester +goods and exports chiefly carpets, cloths, +opium and dried fruit. The carpets, which are +specially made for the European market, are +manufactured chiefly at Sultanabad where thousands +of hands are employed at the looms, +scattered about in private houses of the people +and not in a large factory. The firm takes +special care to furnish good wool and cottons +coloured with vegetable dyes, and not with +aniline. Ancient patterns are selected and +copied in preference to new designs. Of +course, besides these, other carpets are purchased +in other parts of the country. Carpets +may be divided into three classes. The scarce +and most expensive pure silk rugs; the <i>lamsavieh</i> +or good quality carpets, and the <i>mojodeh</i> or +cheaper kind. There is a good demand for +the two latter <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'qualites'">qualities</ins> all over Europe and in +America.</p> + +<p>Articles specially dealt in are the cotton and<a name="Pg_1-154" id="Pg_1-154"></a> +wool fabrics called <i>ghilim</i>, the designs of which +are most artistic; and to a certain extent other +fabrics, such as the vividly coloured Kashan +velvets, the watered silks of Resht, the Kerman +cloths resembling those of Cashmir, the silver +and gold embroidered brocades of Yezd, and +the silk handkerchiefs manufactured in the +various silk districts, principally Tabriz, Resht, +Kashan and Yezd.</p> + +<p>The stamped and hand-drawn <i>kalamkars</i> in +stringent colours upon white cotton also find +their way in large quantities to Europe, but are +more quaint than beautiful. Large and ill-proportioned +figures are frequently attempted +in these designs. When of truly Persian manufacture +the colours are said to be quite permanent +under the action of both light and water.</p> + +<p>The firm of Hotz and Son deals in well-nigh +everything, and has made good headway of late +years. It has large establishments at Isfahan, +Shiraz and Bushire, and two agencies, one at +Ahwaz on the Karun River, and one in Teheran +(Groeneweg, Dunlop, and Co.); while it has +correspondents in Bagdad, Busrah, Hongkong +and Rotterdam, the head offices being in +London. Its carpet manufacturing business in +Sultanabad is now carried on by the Persian +Manufacturing Co. The exports are similar to +those of Ziegler and Co.</p> + +<p>There are also smaller firms, particularly in +Teheran, such as the Toko, Virion, and others +who do a retail business in piece goods and +articles of any kind, and are entirely in the hands<a name="Pg_1-155" id="Pg_1-155"></a> +of foreigners, Belgians, Austrians, and French. +Without reference to statistics, which are absolutely +worthless in a country like Persia, the +yearly foreign trade of Persia, divided between +the Gulf ports and the north and north-western +and south-western frontiers, may be put down +roughly at some nine or ten millions sterling.</p> + +<p>The Russian trade in the north may be +considered as about equal to the British in the +south. Then there are the goods brought by +the Trebizonde-Tabriz trade route from Turkey +and the Mediterranean, and by the Bagdad-Kermanshah, +another very important route.</p> + +<p>The extravagant system of farming prevailing +until quite lately in Persia, as well as the uncertainties +of Customs and revenue returns, makes it +difficult to give trustworthy figures; but in future, +probably this year, we may expect some more +reliable data from the new Belgian customs +office, a really sensible and well-managed administration +organised by Monsieur Naus, who is, +indeed, to be congratulated on the success with +which his efforts at bringing about so radical a +reform in the system of collecting duties have in +so short a time been crowned. We often hear in +England that the Customs of Persia are absolutely +in the hands of Russia, and are worked by +Russian officials. Even serious papers like <i>The +Times</i> publish misleading statements of this kind, +but nothing could be more erroneous. M. Naus, +at the head of the Customs, is a Belgian, and so +are nearly all the foreign employees (there are one +or two French, I believe) in Persian employ, but<a name="Pg_1-156" id="Pg_1-156"></a> +not a single Russian is to be found among their +number. That the Russians hold a comparatively +trifling mortgage on the Customs as a security +for their loan is true, but, as long as Persia is +able to pay interest on it, Russia has no more +power over the Persian Customs than we have. +Under regular and honest management, like the +present, the Customs have already given considerable +results, and were it not for the weakness of +the Government in the provinces, the Customs +receipts might easily be doubled, even without a +change in the tariff.</p> + +<p>The duties levied in Persia are determined by +the treaty of Turkmantchai with Russia in 1828, +by which a uniform and reciprocal five per cent. +for import and export was agreed to, a special +convention, nevertheless, applying to Turkey, +which fixed a reciprocal 12 per cent. export and +6 per cent. import duty, and 75 per cent. on +tobacco and salt. An attempt was made to +negotiate a new commercial treaty with Russia +last year, but unfortunately, matters did not go +as was expected by M. Naus, who was very +keen on the subject. A high Russian official +was despatched to Teheran who caused a good +deal of trouble, and eventually the whole matter +fell through.</p> + +<p>Regarding the employment of foreigners by +the Persian Government, it is not out of place to +recall the Maclean incident.</p> + +<p>An agreement had been entered into with +Mr. Maclean, a British subject, and a former +employee of the Imperial Bank, to take charge<a name="Pg_1-157" id="Pg_1-157"></a> +of the Mint, in order to bring it up to date and +work it on more business-like principles than at +present. This led to a demand from the Russians +that a similarly high office in the Shah's Government +should be given to a Russian, so that this +appointment might not be taken as a slight +against Russia; or, if this were not possible, that +two or three Russians might be employed instead +in minor capacities in the new Customs. The +Persian Government would not agree to this, but +owing to the pressure that had been brought to +bear by the Russians they felt obliged to dismiss +Mr. Maclean. The British minister necessarily +then stood up for British rights, and a great +scandal was made of the whole affair, and as an +agreement for three years had been signed, the +Persian Government had to pay the salary in full +for that period, although they had only availed +themselves of Mr. Maclean's services for a few +months.</p> + +<p>It is to be regretted that the Sadrazam acted +in so reckless a manner, for the whole matter +might have been settled quietly without the +slightest disturbance and unpleasantness. Anyhow, +this led to a decree being passed (in 1901) +that in future <i>no British subject, no Russian, and no +Turk</i> will be accepted in Persian employ. This +includes the army, with the exception of the +special Cossack regiment which had previously +been formed under Russian instructors. It can +safely be said that there is not a single Russian +in any civil appointment in Persia, no more than +there is any Britisher; but, in the Customs<a name="Pg_1-158" id="Pg_1-158"></a> +service particularly, M. Naus being a Belgian, +nearly all the employees are Belgian, as I have +said, with only one or two French lower subordinates.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-16.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-16_th.jpg" alt="The First Position in Persian Wrestling." title="The First Position in Persian Wrestling." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The First Position in Persian Wrestling.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-17.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-17_th.jpg" alt="Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength." title="Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength.</p> + +<p>The Customs service is carried on with great +fairness to all alike, and the mischievous stories +of Russian preference and of the violation of +rules in favour of Russian goods are too ridiculous +to be taken into consideration. One fact is +certain, that any one who takes the trouble to +ascertain facts finds them very different from +what they are represented to be by hasty and +over-excited writers.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-159" id="Pg_1-159"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XVI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Russia on the brain—The apprehended invasion of India—Absolute +nonsense—Russia's tariff—In the House of +Commons—A friendly understanding advisable—German +competition—The peace of the world—Russia's firm policy +of bold advance—An outlet in the Persian Gulf—The policy +of drift—Sound knowledge of foreign countries needed—Mutual +advantages of a Russian and British agreement—Civilisation—Persia's +integrity.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is, unfortunately, a class of Englishmen—especially +in India—who have Russia on the +brain, and those people see the Russian everywhere +and in everything. Every humble globe-trotter +in India must be a Russian spy—even +though he be an Englishman—and much is +talked about a Russian invasion of India, through +Tibet, through Afghanistan, Persia or Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>To any one happening to know these countries +it is almost heartrending to hear such nonsense, +and worse still to see it repeated in serious +papers, which reproduce and comment upon it +gravely for the benefit of the public.</p> + +<p>In explanation, and without going into many +details, I will only mention the fact that it is +more difficult than it sounds for armies—even<a name="Pg_1-160" id="Pg_1-160"></a> +for the sturdy Russian soldier—to march hundreds +of miles across deserts without water for +men and animals, or over a high plateau like +Tibet, where (although suggested by the wise +newspaper Englishman at home as a sanatorium +for British troops in India) the terrific climate, +great altitudes, lack of fuel, and a few other +such trifles would reduce even the largest European +army into a very humble one at the end +of a journey across it.</p> + +<p>Then people seem to be ignorant of the fact +that, with a mountainous natural frontier like +the Himahlyas, a Maxim gun or two above each +of the few passable passes would bring to reason +any army—allowing that it could get thus far—that +intended to cross over into India!</p> + +<p>But, besides, have we not got soldiers to defend +India? Why should we fear the Russians? +Are we not as good as they are? Why should +we ever encourage the so far unconcerned +Russian to come to India by showing our fear? +It is neither manly nor has it any sense in it. The +Russian has no designs whatever upon India at +present—he does not even dream of advancing +on India—but should India eventually fall into +Russia's hands—which is not probable—believe +me, it will never be by a Russian army marching +into India from the north, or north-west, or +west. The danger, if there is any, may be +found probably very much nearer home, in our +own ignorance and blindness.</p> + +<p>We also hear much about the infamy of +Russia in placing a tariff on all goods in transit<a name="Pg_1-161" id="Pg_1-161"></a> +for Persia, and we are told that this is another +blow directed at English trade. Such is not the +case. Russia, I am told by people who ought +to know, would be only too glad to come to an +understanding with England on some sensible +basis, but she certainly is not quite so unwise as +we are in letting Germany, her real enemy, +swamp her market with cheap goods. The tariff +is chiefly a protection against Germany. Of +course, if we choose to help Germany to ruin +Russia's markets as well as our own, then +we must suffer in consequence, but looking +ahead towards the future of Asia, it might +possibly not be unwise to come to some sensible +arrangement with Russia, by which her commercial +interests and ours would mutually benefit +instead of suffering as they do at present.</p> + +<p>In Persia we are playing a rapidly losing +game. Commercially, as I have already said, +we have lost Northern Persia, and Russian influence +is fast advancing in Southern Persia. +This is surely the time to pull up and change +our tactics, or we shall go to the wall altogether.</p> + +<p>As Mr. Joseph Walton, M.P., very ably put +it before the House of Commons on January +22nd, 1902, in the case of Russia we have at +present to contend with abnormal conditions of +competition. It would therefore be wise for the +British Government to reconsider its policy in +order to maintain, at least, our commercial +interests in Southern Persia. The Government +of India, too, should take its share in upholding +British interests—being directly concerned in<a name="Pg_1-162" id="Pg_1-162"></a> +affairs that regard the welfare of Persia. Russia +has gone to great expense to construct two +excellent roads from the north into Persia to +facilitate Russian commerce, and it would be +advisable if we were to do the same from the +south. (One of the roads, the Piri Bazaar—Kasvin +Road, is said to have cost, including +purchase of the Kasvin Teheran section, something +like half a million sterling). It is indeed +idle, as Mr. Walton said, to adhere to methods +of the past when foreign Governments are adopting +modern methods in order to achieve the +commercial conquest of new regions.</p> + +<p>The matter of establishing Consulates, too, is +of the greatest importance. We find even large +trading cities like Kermanshah, Yezd, Shiraz and +Birjand devoid of British Consuls. Undoubtedly +we should wish a priority of right to construct +roads and railways in Southern Persia—in the +event of the Persians failing to construct these +themselves—to be recognised, and it seems quite +sensible and fair to let Persia give a similar advantage +to Russia in Northern Persia. Nothing +but a friendly understanding between England +and Russia, which should clearly define the respective +spheres of influence, will save the integrity +of Persia. That country should remain +an independent buffer state between Russia and +India. But to bring about this result it is more +than necessary that we should support Persia +on our side, as much as Russia does on hers, +or the balance is bound to go in the latter's +favour.<a name="Pg_1-163" id="Pg_1-163"></a></p> + +<p>The understanding with Russia should also—and +I firmly believe Russia would be only too +anxious to acquiesce in this—provide a protection +against German commercial invasion and enterprise +in the region of the Persian Gulf. Germany—not +Russia—is England's bitterest enemy—all +the more to be dreaded because she is a +"friendly enemy." It is no use to try and keep +out Russia merely to let Germany reap any +commercial advantages that may be got—and +that is the policy England is following at the +present moment. The question whether or no +we have a secret agreement with Germany, in +connection with the Euphrates Valley Railway, +is a serious one, because, although one cannot +but admire German enterprise in that quarter, it +would be well to support it only in places where +it is not likely to be disastrous to our own trade +and interests generally.</p> + +<p>Little or no importance should be attached to +the opinion of the Russian Press in their attacks +upon England. The influential men of Russia, +as well as the Emperor himself, are certainly +anxious to come to a satisfactory understanding +with England regarding affairs not only in Persia +but in Asia generally. An understanding between +the two greatest nations in the world +would, as long as it lasted, certainly maintain the +peace of the world, and would have enormous +control over the smaller nations; whereas petty +combinations can be of little practical solid +assistance or use to us.</p> + +<p>As I have pointed out before on several<a name="Pg_1-164" id="Pg_1-164"></a> +occasions,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Russia is not to-day what she was +half a century ago. She has developed enough +to know her strength and power, and her soldiers +are probably the finest in Europe—because the +most practical and physically enduring. Her +steady, firm policy of bold advance, in spite of +our namby-pamby, ridiculous remonstrances, can +but command the admiration of any fair-minded +person, although we may feel sad, very sad, that +we have no men capable of standing up against +it, not with mere empty, pompous words, but +with actual deeds which might delay or stop her +progress. As matters are proceeding now, we +are only forwarding Russia's dream of possessing +a port in the Persian Gulf. She wants it and +she will no doubt get it. In Chapters XXXIII +and XXXIV the question of the point upon +which her aims are directed is gone into more +fully. The undoubted fact remains that, notwithstanding +our constant howling and barking, +she invariably gets what she wants, and even +more, which would lead one to believe that, at +any rate, her fear of us is not very great.</p> + +<p>We are told that our aggressive—by which is +meant retrogressive—policy towards Russia is +due to our inability to effect an entire reversal of +our policy towards that country, but this is not +the case at all. At any rate, as times and circumstances +have changed, our policy need not +be altogether reversed, but it must necessarily +be subjected to modifications in order to meet +changed conditions. If we stand still while<a name="Pg_1-165" id="Pg_1-165"></a> +Russia is going fast ahead, we are perforce left +behind. The policy of drift, which we seem to +favour, is bound to lead us to disaster, and when +we couple with it inefficacious resistance and +bigoted obstruction we cannot be surprised if, in +the end, it only yields us bitter disappointment, +extensive losses, enmity and derision.</p> + +<p>The policy of drift is merely caused by our +absolute ignorance of foreign countries. We +drift simply because we do not know what else +to do. We hear noble lords in the Government +say that the reason we did not lend Persia the +paltry two and a half millions sterling was because +"men of business do not lend money +except on proper security, and that before embarking +on any such policy the Government +must be anxious to see whether the security is +both sufficient and suitable." Yes, certainly, but +why did the Government not see? Had the +Government seen they certainly would have +effected the loan. Surely, well-known facts, already +mentioned in previous pages, have proved +very luminously our folly in taking the advice of +incompetent men who judge of matters with +which, to say the least, they are not familiar. +But the real question appears to be, not how to +make a safe and profitable financial investment, +which is no part of the functions of the British +or any other Government, but rather whether it +is not better to lay out a certain sum for a valuable +political object than to allow a formidable +competitor to do so to our prejudice.</p> + +<p>Hence the disadvantageous position in which<a name="Pg_1-166" id="Pg_1-166"></a> +we find ourselves at present, all over Asia, but +particularly in Persia. It would no doubt be +the perfection of an agreement if an amicable +understanding could be arrived at with Russia, +not only regarding Persia but including China, +Manchuria, and Corea as well. A frank and fair +adjustment of Russian and British interests in +these countries could be effected without serious +difficulty, mutual concessions could advantageously +be granted, and mutual advice and +friendly support would lead to remarkably prosperous +results for both countries.</p> + +<p>Russia, notwithstanding all we hear of her, +would only be too glad to make sacrifices and +concessions in order to have the friendship and +support of England, and Russia's friendship to +England would, I think, be of very great assistance +to British manufacturers. It must be remembered +that Russia is an enormous country, +and that her markets both for exports and imports +are not to be despised. In machinery +alone huge profits could be made, as well as in +cloths, piece goods, fire-arms, Manchester goods, +worked iron, steel, etc.</p> + +<p>Articles of British manufacture are in much +demand in Russia and Siberia, and, should the +British manufacturer see his way to make +articles as required by the buyer, very large +profits could be made in the Russian market. +Also huge profits will eventually be made by the +export of Siberian products into England and the +Continent, a branch of industry which the +Russians themselves are attempting to push into<a name="Pg_1-167" id="Pg_1-167"></a> +the British market with the assistance of their +Government.</p> + +<p>To return to Persia it must not be forgotten +that British imports into that country (in 1900) +amounted to £1,400,000, whilst Russia imported +£21,974,952 of British goods. Which, after all, +is the customer best worth cultivating: Persia +which takes £1,400,000 of our goods, or Russia +which buys from us for £21,974,952?</p> + +<p>It is a mistake to believe that we are the only +civilising agents of the world, and that the work +of other powers in that direction only tends to +the stagnation of Eastern peoples. One might +affirm with more truth that our intercourse with +the civilisation of the East tends to our own +stagnation. We do impart to the natives, it is +true, some smattering of the semi-barbaric, +obsolete ways we possess ourselves, but standing +aside and trying to look upon matters with the +eye of a rational man, it is really difficult to say +whether what we teach and how we teach it +does really improve the Eastern people or not. +Personally, with a long experience of natives +all over Asia, it appears to me that it +does not.</p> + +<p>The Russian, though from a British point of +view altogether a barbarian, does not appear to +spoil the natives quite so much in his work +among them. The natives under his <i>régime</i> +seem happy, and his work of civilisation is +more of the patriarchal style, tending more to +enrich the people, to promote commerce and +trade on appropriate lines, than to educate the<a name="Pg_1-168" id="Pg_1-168"></a> +masses according to Western methods and laws. +The results are most decidedly good, and anyhow +lead to much greater contentment among +the masses than we can secure, for instance, in +India. Above all things it makes for peace; +the natives are treated with extreme consideration +and kindness, but at the same time they +know that no nonsense is tolerated, and that +is undoubtedly the way most appreciated by +Asiatics.</p> + +<p>In Persia, it is to be hoped for the peace of +all that neither Russia nor England will acquire +any territorial rights, but that the integrity of +the Shah's Empire may long be preserved. Only +it would not be unwise to prepare for emergencies +in case the country—already half spoiled +by European ways—should one day collapse and +make interference necessary. The integrity of +states in Asia intended to serve as buffers is all +very well when such states can look after themselves, +but with misgovernment and want of +proper reform, as in Persia, great trouble may be +expected sooner than we imagine, unless we on +our side are prepared to help Persia as much as +Russia does on her side.</p> + +<p>If this can be done, with little trouble to +ourselves, and in a way agreeable to the Persians, +there is no reason why, as an independent state, +Persia should not fully develop her resources, +reorganise her government and army, become a +powerful nation, and establish a flourishing trade, +Russia and England profiting equally by the +assistance given her.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See <i>China and the Allies</i>, Heinemann; Scribner.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-169" id="Pg_1-169"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XVII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Education—Educated but not instructed—The Mullahs—The +Madrassahs—The Royal College in Teheran—Secular +Schools—The brain of Persian students—Hints on commercial +education for Englishmen—Languages a necessity—Observation—Foreigners +and Englishmen—The Englishman +as a linguist—Special commercial training in Germany—The +British manufacturer—Ways and ways—Our +Colonies swamped with foreign-made goods—Russia fast +and firmly advancing.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> believe that the Persians are illiterate would +be a mistake, and to think that the masses of +Iran were properly educated would be a greater +mistake still; but, if I may be allowed the +expression, the average Persian cannot be better +described than by saying he is "educated in +ignorance"; or, in other words, the average +Persian is educated, yes; but instructed, no.</p> + +<p>If what the people are taught can be called +education—and we in England should not be the +first to throw stones at others—the average +Persian is better educated than the average +European. But there is education and education. +It is difficult to find the commonest man +in Persian cities who cannot read to a certain +extent, and most people can also write a little +and have a smattering of arithmetic.<a name="Pg_1-170" id="Pg_1-170"></a></p> + +<p>The teaching, except in the larger and principal +centres, is almost entirely in the hands of the +Mullahs, so that naturally, as in our clerical +schools, religion is taught before all things, verses +of the Koran are learnt by heart, and the various +rites and multiple religious ceremonies are +pounded into the children's brains, and accessory +religious sanitary duties of ablutions, etc., which +are believed to purify the body and bring it +nearer to Allah, are inculcated. Even in remoter +villages, the boys are taught these things in the +Mosques as well as a little reading, and enough +writing for daily uses and how to add and subtract +and multiply figures. Famous bits of +national poetry and further passages from the +Koran are committed to memory.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-18.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-18_th.jpg" alt="Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah." title="Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Iman Jumeh.</span> Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah.</p> + +<p>In the large cities a higher education can be +obtained in the elaborate Madrassahs adjoining +the mosques, and here, too, entirely at the hands +of the Mullahs; but these higher colleges, a +kind of university, are only frequented by the +richer and better people, by those who intend to +devote themselves to medicine, to jurisprudence, +or to theological studies. Literature and art and +science, all based mostly on the everlasting +Koran, are here taught <i>à fond</i>, the students +spending many years in deep and serious study. +These are the old-fashioned and more common +schools. But new schools in European or semi-European +style also exist and, considering all +things, are really excellent.</p> + +<p>In Teheran, a Royal College has been in +existence for some years. It has first-class<a name="Pg_1-171" id="Pg_1-171"></a> +foreign teachers, besides native instructors educated +in Europe, and supplies the highest instruction +to the students. Modern languages are +taught to perfection, the higher mathematics, international +jurisprudence, chemistry, philosophy, +military strategy, and I do not know what +else! I understood from some of the professors +that the students were remarkable for +their quickness and intelligence as compared +with Europeans, and I myself, on meeting some +of the students who had been and others who +were being instructed in the University, was +very much struck by their facility in learning +matters so foreign to them, and by their astounding +faculty of retaining what they had learnt. +It must be recollected that the various scientific +lessons and lectures were delivered not in Persian, +but in some foreign language, usually French, +which intensified their difficulty of apprehending.</p> + +<p>Other private schools have also been started +on similar principles in various parts of the +Empire. Even in Yezd a most excellent school +on similar lines is to be found and will be +described later on.</p> + +<p>Naturally the Mullahs look askance upon +these Government schools, in which foreign +methods are adopted. The Alliance Française +of Paris, which has a committee in Teheran, +has opened a French school under the direction +of Mr. Virioz, a certificated professor. The +school has nearly 100 pupils, all natives. This +is a primary school, of which the studies are in +French, but a Mullah has been added to the<a name="Pg_1-172" id="Pg_1-172"></a> +staff to teach the Koran and religious subjects. +In Hamadan, a large Jewish centre, the Alliance +Israelite has opened important schools which +have largely drained the American Presbyterian +schools of their Jewish pupils. Other secular +schools, it appears, are to be opened in which +foreign education is to be imparted, and no +doubt this is a first and most excellent step of +Persia towards the improvement, if not the actual +reform, of the old country.</p> + +<p>Not that the religious education received +from the priests was without its good points. +The love for literature and poetry, which it +principally expounded, developed in the people +the more agreeable qualities which have made +the Persian probably the most polite man on this +earth. The clerical education, indeed, worked +first upon the heart, then upon the brain; it +taught reverence for one's parents, love for one's +neighbours, and obedience to one's superiors; it +expounded soft, charitable ways in preference to +aggression or selfishness—not the right instead +of the duty—as is frequently the case in secular +schools.</p> + +<p>But softness, consideration, poetry, and charity +are things of the past; they can only be indulged +in by barbarians; in civilisation, unluckily, there +is very little use for them except for advertisement +sake. So the Persians were wise to resort to our +style of education, which may yet be the means +of saving their country. They will lose their +courteousness—they are fast beginning to do that +already—their filial love, their charity, and all<a name="Pg_1-173" id="Pg_1-173"></a> +the other good qualities they may possess; only +when these are gone will they rank in civilisation +quite as high as any European nation!</p> + +<p>The wealthier people send their sons to be +educated abroad in European capitals, and one +cannot help being struck by the wonderful ease +with which these fellows master not only languages, +but science and extremely complex +subjects. Whether this is due to the brain of +young Persians being fresher owing to its not +having been overtaxed for generations—and therefore +the impressions are clearly received and +firmly recorded, or whether the mode of life +is apt to develop the brain more than any other +part of their anatomy is difficult to say, but the +quickness and lucidity of the average young +Persian brain is certainly astounding when compared +to that of European brains of the same +ages.</p> + +<p>The Persian, too, has a most practical way of +looking at things,—when he does take the +trouble to do so—not sticking to one point of +view but observing his subject from all round, +as it were, with a good deal of philosophical +humour that is of great help to him in all he +undertakes; and it is curious to see how fast and +thoroughly the younger Persians of better families +can adapt themselves to European ways of thought +and manner without the least embarrassment or +concern. In this, I think, they surpass any +other Asiatic nation, the small community of +the Parsees of India alone excepted.</p> + +<p>And here a word or two on the education of<a name="Pg_1-174" id="Pg_1-174"></a> +Englishmen intending to make a living abroad, +especially in Asia, and particularly in Persia, will +not, I hope, be out of place. With the fast-growing +intercourse between East and West, +sufficient stress cannot be laid upon the fact +that sound commercial education on up-to-date +principles is chiefly successful in countries undergoing +the processes of development, and that, +above all, the careful study of foreign languages—the +more the better—should occupy the attention +of the many students in our country who +are to live in Asia. There is a great deal too +much time absolutely wasted in English schools +over Latin and Greek, not to mention the +exaggerated importance given to games like +cricket, football, tennis, which, if you like, are +all very well to develop the arms and legs, but +seem to have quite the reverse effect upon the +brain.</p> + +<p>Yet what is required nowadays to carry a man +through the world are brains, and not muscular +development of limbs. As for a classical education, +it may be all right for a clergyman, a lawyer, +or for a man with high but unprofitable literary +tastes, but not for fellows who are not only to be +useful to themselves, but indirectly to the mother +country, by developing the industries or trades of +lands to be opened up.</p> + +<p>If I may be permitted to say so, one of the +principal qualities which we should develop in +our young men is the sense of observation in all +its forms—a sense which is sadly neglected in +English education. It has always been my<a name="Pg_1-175" id="Pg_1-175"></a> +humble experience that one learns more of use in +one hour's keen observation than by reading all +the books in the world, and when that sense is +keenly developed it is quite extraordinary with +what facility one can do things which the average +unobservant man thinks utterly impossible. It +most certainly teaches one to simplify everything +and always to select the best and easiest way in +all one undertakes, which, after all, is the way +leading to success.</p> + +<p>Again, when observation is keenly developed, +languages—or, in fact, anything else—can be +learnt with amazing facility. The "knack" of +learning languages is only due to observation; +the greatest scientific discoveries have been due to +mere observation; the greatest commercial enterprises +are based on the practical results of observation. +But it is astounding how few people +do really observe, not only carefully, but at all. +The majority of folks might as well be blind for +what they see for themselves. They follow like +sheep what they are told to do, and make their +sons and grandsons do the same; and few countries +suffer more from this than England.</p> + +<p>When travelling in the East one cannot help +being struck by the difference of young Englishmen +and foreigners employed in similar capacities +in business places. The foreigner is usually +fluent in four, five or six different languages, and +has a smattering of scientific knowledge which, if +not very deep, is at any rate sufficient for the purposes +required. He is well up in engineering, +electricity, the latest inventions, explorations, dis<a name="Pg_1-176" id="Pg_1-176"></a>coveries +and commercial devices. He will talk +sensibly on almost any subject; he is moderate +in his habits and careful with his money.</p> + +<p>Now, take the young Englishman. He seldom +knows well more than one language; occasionally +one finds fellows who can speak two tongues +fluently; rarely one who is conversant with +three or four. His conversation generally deals +with drinks, the latest or coming races, the relative +values of horses and jockeys and subsequent offers +to bet—in which he is most proficient. The +local polo, if there is any, or tennis tournaments +afford a further subject for conversation, and then +the lack of discussible topics is made up by more +friendly calls for drinks. The same subjects are +gone through with variations time after time, and +that is about all.</p> + +<p>Now, I maintain that this should not be so, +because, taking things all round, the young +Englishman is really <i>au fond</i> brighter and infinitely +more intelligent than foreigners. It is +his education and mode of living that are at fault, +not the individual himself, and this our cousins +the Americans have long since discovered; hence +their steaming ahead of us in every line with the +greatest ease.</p> + +<p>We hear that the Englishman is no good at +learning languages, but that is again a great +mistake. I do not believe that there is any +other nation in Europe, after the Russians, who +have greater facility—if properly cultivated—and +are more capable of learning languages to perfection +than the English. I am not referring to<a name="Pg_1-177" id="Pg_1-177"></a> +every shameless holiday tripper on the Continent +who makes himself a buffoon by using misapplied, +mispronounced, self-mistaught French or Italian +or German sentences, but I mean the rare +observant Englishman who studies languages +seriously and practically.</p> + +<p>Speaking from experience, in my travels—which +extend more or less all over the world—I +have ever found that Englishmen, when +put to it, could learn languages perfectly. Hence +my remarks, which may seem blunt but are +true. Truly there is no reason why the gift +of learning languages should be neglected in +England,—a gift which, I think, is greatly +facilitated by developing in young people musical +qualities, if any, and training the ear to observe +and receive sounds correctly,—a fact to which +we are just beginning to wake up.</p> + +<p>It is undoubted that the command of several +languages gives a commercial man an enormous +advantage in the present race of European nations +in trying to obtain a commercial superiority; but +the command of a language requires, too, to a +limited extent the additional etiquette of ways +and manners appropriate to it to make it quite +efficient; and these, as well as the proper manner +of speaking the language itself, can only, I repeat, +be learnt by personal observation.</p> + +<p>The Germans train commercial men specially +for the East, men who visit every nook of Asiatic +countries where trade is to be developed, and +closely study the natives, their ways of living, +their requirements, reporting in the most minute<a name="Pg_1-178" id="Pg_1-178"></a> +manner upon them, so that the German manufacturers +may provide suitable articles for the +various markets. In the specific case of Persia, +Russia, the predominant country in the North, +does exactly the same. The Russian manufacturer +studies his client, his habits, his customs, +and supplies him with what he desires and +cherishes, and does not, like the British manufacturer, +export to Eastern countries articles +which may very well suit the farmer, the cyclist, +or the cabman in England, but not the Persian +agriculturist, camel-driver, or highwayman.</p> + +<p>The everlasting argument that the British +manufacturer supplies a better article borders +very much on the idiotic. First of all, setting +apart the doubt whether he does really supply a +better article, what is certain is that a "better +article" may not be of the kind that is wanted +at all by the people. There are in this world +climates and climates, peoples and peoples, religions +and religions, houses and houses, customs +and customs; and therefore the well-made English +article (allowing it to be well-made) which +suits English people is not always adapted for all +other countries, climates, and usages.</p> + +<p>Another prevalent mistake in this country is to +believe that the Persian, or any other Oriental, +will only buy cheap things. The Oriental may +endeavour to strike a bargain—for that is one of +the chief pleasures of his existence, though a fault +which can easily be counter-balanced—but he is +ever ready to pay well for what he really wants. +Thus, if because of his training in fighting he<a name="Pg_1-179" id="Pg_1-179"></a> +requires a certain curl and a particular handle +to his knife; if he fancies a particular pattern +printed or woven in the fabrics he imports, and if +because of his religious notions he prefers his +silver spoons drilled with holes; there does not +seem to be any plausible reason why his wishes +should not be gratified as long as he pays for the +articles supplied.</p> + +<p>We, who own half the world, and ought to +know better by this time, seem constantly to +forget that our customs, and ways, seem as ridiculous +to Orientals (to some of ourselves, too,) +quite as ridiculous as theirs to us. In some cases, +even, great offence can be caused by trying to +enforce our methods too suddenly upon Eastern +countries. Civilised people may prefer to blow +their noses with an expensive silk handkerchief, +which they carefully fold up with contents into +the most prominent pocket of their coats; +the unclean Oriental may prefer to close one +nostril by pressing it with his finger and from +the other forcibly eject extraneous matter to a +distance of several feet away, by violent blowing, +repeating the operation with the other nostril. +This may be thought not quite graceful, but is +certainly a most effective method, and possibly +cleaner than ours in the end. We may fancy it +good manners when in public to show little more +of our shirts than the collar and cuffs, but the Persian +or the Hindoo, for instance, prefers to let the +garment dangle to its full extent outside so as to +show its design in full. Again, we may consider +it highly unbecoming and improper for ladies<a name="Pg_1-180" id="Pg_1-180"></a> +to show their lower limbs above the ankle; the +Persian lady thinks nothing of that, but deems it +shocking to show her face.</p> + +<p>And so we could go on and on; in fact, with +the Persians, one might almost go as far as saying +that, with the exception of eating and drinking +and a few other matters, they do most things in +a contrary way to ours. They remove their shoes, +when we would remove our hats; they shave +their heads and let the beard grow; they sleep +in the day and sit up the greater portion of the +night; they make windows in the roof instead +of in the walls; they inoculate smallpox instead +of vaccinating to prevent it; they travel by night +instead of by day.</p> + +<p>It would be absurd to believe that we can +alter in a day the customs, religions, and manners +of millions of natives, and it seems almost +incomprehensible that in such long colonial +experience as ours we have not yet been able to +grasp so simple a fact. But here, again, comes +in my contention that our failing is absolute +lack of observation; unless it be indeed our +conceited notion that other people must rise up +to our standard. Anyhow, we have lost and are +losing heavily by it.</p> + +<p>We see the Germans and Austrians swamping +our own Colonies with goods wherewith our +bazaars in India are overflowing; whereas +English articles—if cottons are excepted—are +seldom to be seen in the bazaars. This seems +indeed a curious state of affairs. Nor do we +need to go to India. England itself is over<a name="Pg_1-181" id="Pg_1-181"></a>flowing +with foreign-made goods. Now, why +should it not be possible—and certainly more +profitable—to meet the wishes of natives of +Eastern countries and give them what they +want?</p> + +<p>There is another matter which greatly hampers +the British manufacturer, in his dealings with +Persians particularly. It is well to recollect that +the blunt way we have of transacting business +does not always answer with Orientals. Impatience, +too, of which we are ever brimful, +is a bad quality to possess in dealings with Persians. +Times have gone by when England had +practically the monopoly of the trade of the +East and could lay down the law to the buyers. +The influx of Europeans and the extension of +trade to the most remote corners of the globe +have increased to such an extent during the last +few years—and with these competition—that +the exporter can no longer use the slack, easy +ways of half-a-century ago, when commercial +supremacy was in our hands, and must look out +for himself.</p> + +<p>A knowledge of the language, with a conciliatory, +courteous manner, a good stock of +patience and a fair capacity for sherbet, hot tea +and coffee, will, in Persia, carry a trader much +further in his dealings than the so-called "smarter +ways" appreciated in England or America; and +another point to be remembered in countries +where the natives are unbusiness-like, as they +are in Persia, is that personal influence and trust—which +the natives can never dissociate from<a name="Pg_1-182" id="Pg_1-182"></a> +the bargain in hand—go a very long way towards +successful trading in Iran.</p> + +<p>This is, to my mind, one of the principal +reasons of Russian commercial successes in +Northern Persia. We will not refer here to the +ridiculous idea, so prevalent in England, that +Russia was never and never will be a manufacturing +country. Russia is very fast developing +her young industries, which are pushed to the +utmost by her Government, and what is more, +the work is done in a remarkably practical way, +by people who possess a thorough knowledge of +what they are doing. The natives and the +geographical features of the country have been +carefully studied, and the Russian trading scheme +is carried firmly and steadily on an unshakable +base. We sit and express astonishment at Russian +successes in Persia; the people at home can +hardly be made to realise them, and I have +heard people even discredit them; but this is +only the beginning and nothing to what we shall +see later on unless we proceed to work on similar +sensible lines. It certainly arouses admiration to +see what the Russians can do and how well they +can do it with ridiculously small capital, when +we waste, absolutely waste, immense sums and +accomplish nothing, or even the reverse of what +we intend to accomplish. But there again is the +difference between the observant and the unobservant +man.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-183" id="Pg_1-183"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XVIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Persia's industrial, mineral and agricultural resources—Climate +of various districts—Ghilan's trade—Teheran and the +surrounding country—Khorassan and Sistan—The Caspian +provinces—Mazanderan, Astrabad and Azerbaijan—Russian +activity and concessions in Azerbaijan—Hamadan—The +Malayer and Borujird districts—The nomads of Kurdistan—Naphtha—The +tribes of Pusht-i-kuh—The pastoral +people of Luristan—Arabistan—Farsistan—Laristan—Shiraz +wines—Persian Beluchistan.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> geographical situation of Persia, its extent, +the altitude of its plateau above the sea level, its +vast deserts and its mountain ranges, give the +country a good selection of climates, temperatures +and vegetation. We have regions of intense +tropical heat and of almost arctic cold, we have +temperate regions, we have healthy regions, +and regions where everybody is fever-stricken. +Regions with moist air, plenty of water, and big +marshes, and dreary waterless deserts.</p> + +<p>Necessarily such natural conditions are bound +to give a great variety of resources which show +themselves in various guises. A quick survey of +the agricultural, industrial and mineral resources +of the principal provinces of Persia according to +up-to-date information may not be out of place,<a name="Pg_1-184" id="Pg_1-184"></a> +and will help the reader to appreciate the +journey through some of the districts mentioned.</p> + +<p>We have already been through Ghilan with +its almost temperate climate in the lowlands, but +damp in the northern portion, where fever is +rampant, but where, at the same time, luxuriant +vegetation with thick forests, grass in abundance, +paddy fields for the extensive cultivation of rice, +olive-groves, vineyards, cotton, wheat, tobacco, +sugar-cane, fruit and all kinds of vegetables +nourish; while the production of silk for export +on a large and fast-increasing scale—it might be +increased enormously if more modern methods +were adopted—and wool and cotton fabrics, +mostly for the Persian market, are manufactured. +It exports, mostly to Russia, great quantities of +dried fruit, wool, cotton, and tobacco (made into +cigarettes), salt fish, caviare and oil.</p> + +<p>South-east of Ghilan we find Teheran on a +high plateau, its situation giving it a delightful +and healthy climate, but very scanty agricultural +resources owing to lack of water. In and near +the capital city there are good gardens, grown at +considerable expense and trouble, but very little +other vegetation. We have seen in previous +chapters what the industries of the capital, both +native and foreign, are, and what they amount +to; there is also a manufacture of glazed tiles, +quite artistic, but not to be compared in beauty +of design, colour and gloss with the ancient +ones. Teheran is dependent on the neighbouring +provinces and Europe for nearly everything.</p> + +<p>This is not, however, the case with Isfahan,<a name="Pg_1-185" id="Pg_1-185"></a> +the ancient capital, in the province of which +cotton, wheat, Indian corn, tobacco and opium +are grown in fair quantities, the last-named for +export. Mules and horses are reared, and there +are several flourishing industries, such as carpet-making, +metal work, leather tanneries, gold and +silver work, and silk and wool fabrics.</p> + +<p>To the east we have Khorassan and Sistan, a +great wheat-growing country with some good +pastures, and also producing opium, sugar-cane, +dates and cotton. In summer the northerly +winds sweeping over the desert are unbearable, +and the winter is intensely cold. In the northern +part of Khorassan snow falls during the coldest +months, but in Sistan the winter is temperate. +Life is extremely cheap for natives in Sistan, +which is a favourite resort for camel men and +their beasts, both from Afghanistan and Beluchistan. +Northern Khorassan is the great centre +of turquoise mining; copper and coal are also +found there, but its local trade, now that the +export of grain is forbidden, is mostly in opium, +worked leather, wool and excellent horses, which +can be purchased for very little money. Camels, +both loading and riding (or fast-going camels) are +also reared here in the southern portion of the +province, the northern part being too cold for +them in winter.</p> + +<p>The handsomest and richest districts of +Persia, but not the healthiest, are undoubtedly +the northern ones on the Caspian Sea, or +bordering on Russian territory, such as +Mazanderan, Astrabad, and Azerbaijan. In the<a name="Pg_1-186" id="Pg_1-186"></a> +first two, rice is grown in large quantities, +castor-oil, wheat, cotton and barley; and in +Mazanderan extensive pasturages are found on +the hills for sheep; but not so in Astrabad, which, +owing to its peculiar formation, is exposed to +broiling heat on the sandy wastes, and to terrific +cold on the mountains, but has a fairly temperate +climate in the southern portion of the +province. These—if the production of silk is +excepted—are mostly agricultural districts. At +one time Mazanderan had beautiful forests which +are now fast being destroyed. Considerable +bartering is carried on between the towns and the +nomad tribes, in rugs, carpets, horses and mules, +against grain, rice, felts and woollen cloths of +local manufacture.</p> + +<p>Azerbaijan, the most northern province of +Persia, with Tabriz as a centre, is very rich in +agricultural products, particularly in rice and +wheat. Notwithstanding the severe climate in +winter, when the snowfall is rather heavy, and +the thermometer down to 20° below zero centigrade +in February, there are good vineyards in +the neighbourhood of Tabriz, and most excellent +vegetables and fruit. Tobacco is successfully +grown (and manufactured for the pipe and into +cigarettes). The heat in summer is intense, +with hot winds and dust storms; but owing to +the altitude (4,420 feet at Tabriz) the nights are +generally cool. In the spring there are torrential +rains, and also towards the end of the autumn, +but the months of May, June, October and +November are quite pleasant.<a name="Pg_1-187" id="Pg_1-187"></a></p> + +<p>The local trade of Azerbaijan is insignificant, +but being on the Russian border the transit trade +has of late assumed large proportions, and is +increasing fast. The importation, for instance, of +Turkey-reds by Russia is growing daily, and also +the importation of silk, in cocoons and manufactured, +velvet, woollen goods, various cotton +goods, raw wool, dyes (such as henna, indigo, +cochineal and others), and sugar, the principal +import of all. With the exception of tea, indigo +and cochineal, which come from India, the +imports into Azerbaijan come almost altogether +from Russia, Turkey, Austria-Hungary and +France. The Russian trade in sugar is enormous +from this quarter.</p> + +<p>The carpet trade, which at one time seemed to +be dying out, is now about to enter on a prosperous +phase; but not so the wool-weaving, +which does not go beyond the local market. +Firearms are manufactured and sold to the +Kurds, and jewellery is made; but the principal +exports are dried fruit, raisins, almonds, pistachios, +chiefly to Russia and Turkey; also gum, +oils, raw metals (copper, iron), hides, precious +stones, alimentary products (honey and dried +vegetables), various kinds of wood, live stock +(mainly sheep and oxen), tobacco, raw and +manufactured, dyes, and raw and manufactured +cotton and silk, carpets, rugs, and cloth.</p> + +<p>All these exports are to Russia and Turkey, +and do not all necessarily come from Azerbaijan. +The Russians are displaying great activity in this +province, and have established an important branch<a name="Pg_1-188" id="Pg_1-188"></a> +of their "Banque d'Escompte et de Prêts de +Perse." They have obtained road, railway, and +mining concessions, and according to the report of +our consul in Tabriz, the Russian Bank makes +advances, to the extent of fifty per cent., to +merchants dealing in Russian goods, especially +to native exporters of dried fruit, such advances +being repaid in Russia by the sale of such produce, +or in Persia by the sale of corresponding +imports of manufactured goods.</p> + +<p>Tabriz itself, being a centre of export of the +produce of Northern Persia, is a promising field +for banking enterprise, and will assume greater +importance even than it has now when the +carriage road scheme, a concession which was +granted by the Shah, is completed, and furnishes +easier communication for trade and travelling +purposes. Russian engineers are said to have +surveyed and mapped the country for the establishment +of a railway system in Azerbaijan.</p> + +<p>The mineral resources of Azerbaijan are said +to be considerable, iron being found in rich +deposits of hematite; sulphur, copper and +arsenical pyrites, bitumen, lignite, salt, mineral, +ferruginous and sulphurous springs, and variegated +marble. A similar geological formation is +found extending to Hamadan, where beds of +lignite and anthracite exist, and fine marbles and +granites are to be found. Here, too, we have a +trifling market for local produce, but a considerable +transit trade between the capital and +Kermanshah, Bagdad and Tabriz.</p> + +<p>Hamadan is mostly famous for its capital<a name="Pg_1-189" id="Pg_1-189"></a> +tanneries of leather and for its metal work; but +its climate is probably the worst in Persia, if the +suffocating Gulf coast is excepted—intensely cold +in winter and spring, moist and rainy during the +rest of the year. This produces good pasturages +and gives excellent vegetables, wine of sorts, and +a flourishing poppy culture—a speciality of the +province.</p> + +<p>The same remarks might apply to the +adjoining (south) Malayer and Borujird districts, +which, however, possess a more temperate +climate, although liable to sudden terrific storms +accompanied by torrential rains. There is a +great deal of waste lands in these regions; but, +where irrigated and properly cultivated, wheat +flourishes, as well as fruit trees, vines, vegetables, +poppies, cotton and tobacco. The people are +extremely industrious, being occupied chiefly in +carpet-making for foreign export, and preparing +opium and dried fruit, as well as dyed cottons. +Gold dust is said to be found in beds of streams +and traces of copper in quartz.</p> + +<p>Other provinces, such as Kurdistan, are inhabited +by nomadic peoples, who have a small +trade in horses, arms, opium, wool and dates; +but the cultivation of land is necessarily much +neglected except for the supply of local needs. +In many parts it is almost impossible, as for five +or six winter months the soil is buried in snow, +and the heat of the summer is unbearable. There +seem to be no intermediate seasons. The people +live mostly on the caravan traffic from Bagdad to +various trading centres of Persia, and they manu<a name="Pg_1-190" id="Pg_1-190"></a>facture +coarse cloths, rugs and earthenware of +comparatively little marketable value. Naphtha +does exist, as well as other bituminous springs, +but it is doubtful whether the quantity is sufficient +and whether the naphtha wells are accessible +enough to pay for their exploitation.</p> + +<p>That naphtha does exist, not only in Kurdistan, +but in Pusht-i-kuh, Luristan, and all along the +zone extending south of the Caucasus, is possible; +but whether those who bore wells for oil in those +regions will make fortunes similar to those made +in the extraordinarily rich and exceptionally +situated Baku region, is a different matter altogether, +which only the future can show.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-19.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-19_th.jpg" alt="Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan." title="Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Sahib Divan</span>, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan.</p> + +<p>The tribes of Pusht-i-kuh are somewhat wild +and unreliable. On the mountain sides are +capital pasturages. A certain amount of grain, +tobacco and fruit are grown, principally for local +consumption.</p> + +<p>In Luristan, too, we have partly a nomad +pastoral population. Being a mountainous region +there are extremes of temperature. In the +plains the heat is terrific; but higher up the +climate is temperate and conducive to good pasturages +and even forests. As in the Pusht-i-kuh +mountain district, here, too, wheat, rice and +barley are grown successfully in huge quantities, +and the vine flourishes at certain altitudes as well as +fruit trees. The local commerce consists principally +in live stock, the horses being quite good, and +there is a brisk trade in arms and ammunition.</p> + +<p>There remain now the large districts of +Khuzistan, better known as Arabistan, Farsistan<a name="Pg_1-191" id="Pg_1-191"></a> +and Laristan. The heat in these provinces is +terrible during the summer, and the latter district +is further exposed to the Scirocco winds of the +Gulf, carrying with them suffocating sand clouds. +If properly developed, and if the barrage of the +Karun river at Ahwaz were put in thorough +repair, the plains of Arabistan could be made the +richest in Persia. Wheat, rice and forage were +grown in enormous quantities at one time, and +cotton, tobacco, henna, indigo and sugar-cane. +But this region, being of special interest to Britain, +a special chapter is devoted to it, as well as to +the possibilities of Farsistan and Laristan, to +which future reference will be made.</p> + +<p>The trade in Shiraz wines is fairly developed, +and they are renowned all over Persia. Considering +the primitive method in which they are +made they are really excellent, especially when +properly matured. The better ones resemble +rich sherries, Madeira and port wine.</p> + +<p>Indigo, horses, mules and carpets form the +trade of the province which, they say, possesses +undeveloped mineral resources such as sulphur, +lead, presumed deposits of coal, mercury, antimony +and nickel.</p> + +<p>Persian Beluchistan is quite undeveloped so far, +and mostly inhabited by nomad tribes, somewhat +brigand-like in many parts and difficult to deal +with. They manufacture rugs and saddle-bags +and breed good horses and sheep. Their trade is +insignificant, and a good deal of their country is +barren. The climate is very hot, and in many +parts most unhealthy.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-192" id="Pg_1-192"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XIX" id="V1-CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A Persian wedding—Polygamy—Seclusion of women—Match-makers—Subterfuges—The +<i>Nomzad</i>, or official betrothal +day—The wedding ceremony in the harem—For luck—The +wedding procession—Festival—Sacrifices of sheep +and camels—The last obstacle, the <i>ruhmah</i>—The bride's +endowment—The bridegroom's settlement—Divorces—A +famous well for unfaithful women—Women's influence—Division +of property.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> general European idea about Persian +matrimonial affairs is about as inaccurate as is +nearly every other European popular notion of +Eastern customs. We hear a great deal about +Harems, and we fancy that every Persian must +have dozens of wives, while there are people +who seriously believe that the Shah has no less +than one wife for each day of the year, or 365 +in all! That is all very pretty fiction, but differs +considerably from real facts.</p> + +<p>First of all, it may be well to repeat that by +the Mahommedan doctrine no man can have +more than four wives, and this on the specified +condition that he is able to keep them in comfort, +in separate houses, with separate attendants, +separate personal jewellery, and that he will look +upon them equally, showing no special favour to<a name="Pg_1-193" id="Pg_1-193"></a> +any of them which may be the cause of jealousy +or envy. All these conditions make it well-nigh +impossible for any man of sound judgment to +embark in polygamy. Most well-to-do Persians, +therefore, only have one wife.</p> + +<p>Another important matter to be taken into +consideration is, that no Persian woman of a +good family will ever marry a man who is +already married. So that the chances of legal +polygamy become at once very small indeed in +young men of the better classes, who do not wish +to ruin their career by marrying below their +own level.</p> + +<p>An exception should be made with the lower +and wealthy middle classes, who find a satisfaction +in numbers to make up for quality, and who +are the real polygamists of the country. But +even in their case the real wives are never numerous—never +above the number permitted by the +Koran,—the others being merely concubines, +whether temporary or permanent. The Shah +himself has no more than one first wife, with +two or three secondary ones.</p> + +<p>In a country where women are kept in strict +seclusion as they are in Persia, the arrangement +of matrimony is rather a complicated matter. +Everybody knows that in Mussulman countries +a girl can only be seen by her nearest relations, +who by law cannot marry her, such as her father, +grandfather, brothers and uncles—but not by her +cousins, for weddings between cousins are very +frequently arranged in Persia.</p> + +<p>It falls upon the mother or sisters of the<a name="Pg_1-194" id="Pg_1-194"></a> +would-be bridegroom to pick a suitable girl for +him, as a rule, among folks of their own class, +and report to him in glowing terms of her charms, +social and financial advantages. If he has +no mother and sisters, then a complaisant old +lady friend of the family undertakes to act as +middlewoman. There are also women who are +professional match-makers—quite a remunerative +line of business, I am told. Anyhow, when the +young man has been sufficiently allured into +matrimonial ideas, if he has any common sense +he generally wishes to see the girl before saying +yes or no. This is arranged by a subterfuge.</p> + +<p>The women of the house invite the girl to +their home, and the young fellow is hidden +behind a screen or a window or a wall, wherein +convenient apertures have been made for him, +unperceived, to have a good look at the proposed +young lady. This is done several times +until the boy is quite satisfied that he likes her.</p> + +<p>The primary difficulty being settled, his +relations proceed on a visit to the girl's father +and mother, and ask them to favour their son +with their daughter's hand.</p> + +<p>If the young man is considered well off, well-to-do, +sober and eligible in every way, consent is +given. A day is arranged for the Nomzad—the +official betrothal day. All the relations, friends +and acquaintances of the two families are invited, +and the women are entertained in the harem +while the men sit outside in the handsome courts +and gardens. The bridegroom's relations have +brought with them presents of jewellery, accord<a name="Pg_1-195" id="Pg_1-195"></a>ing +to their means and positions in life, with a +number of expensive shawls, five, six, seven or +more, and a mirror. Also some large trays of +candied sugar.</p> + +<p>After a great consumption of tea, sherbet, and +sweets, the young man is publicly proclaimed +suitable for the girl. Music and dancing +(by professionals) are lavishly provided for the +entertainment of guests, on a large or small +scale, according to the position of the parents.</p> + +<p>Some time elapses between this first stage of a +young man's doom and the ceremony for the +legal contract and actual wedding. There is no +special period of time specified, and the parties +can well please themselves as to the time when +the nuptial union is to be finally effected.</p> + +<p>When the day comes the parties do not go to +the mosque nor the convenient registry office—Persia +is not yet civilised enough for the latter—but +a <i>Mujtehed</i> or high priest is sent for, who +brings with him a great many other Mullahs, the +number in due proportion to the prospective +backshish they are to receive for their services.</p> + +<p>The wedding ceremony takes place in the +bride's house, where on the appointed day bands, +dancing, singing, and sweets in profusion are +provided for the great number of guests invited.</p> + +<p>The high priest eventually adjourns to the +harem, where all the women have collected with +the bride, the room being partitioned off with a +curtain behind which the women sit. The bride +and her mother (or other lady) occupy seats +directly behind the curtain, while the priest with<a name="Pg_1-196" id="Pg_1-196"></a> +the bridegroom and his relations take places in +the vacant portion of the room.</p> + +<p>The priest in a stentorian voice calls out to the +girl:—</p> + +<p>"This young man, son of so-and-so, etc., etc., +wants to be your slave. Will you accept him as +your slave?"</p> + +<p>(No reply. Trepidation on the bridegroom's +part.)</p> + +<p>The priest repeats his question in a yet more +stentorian voice.</p> + +<p>Again no reply. The women collect round +the bride and try to induce her to answer. They +stroke her on her back, and caress her face, but +she sulks and is shy and plays with her dress, but +says nothing. When the buzzing noise of the +excited women-folk behind the curtain has +subsided, the priest returns to his charge, while +the expectant bridegroom undergoes the worst +quarter of an hour of his life.</p> + +<p>The third time of asking is generally the last, +and twice the girl has already not answered. It +is a terrible moment. Evidently she is not over +anxious to bring about the alliance, or is the +reluctance a mere feminine expedient to make it +understood from the beginning that she is only +conferring a great favour on the bridegroom by +condescending to marry him? The latter hypothesis +is correct, for when the priest thunders for +the third time his former question, a faint voice—after +a tantalizing delay—is heard to say "Yes."</p> + +<p>The bridegroom, now that this cruel ordeal is +over, begins to breathe again.<a name="Pg_1-197" id="Pg_1-197"></a></p> + +<p>The priest is not yet through his work, and +further asks the girl whether she said "Yes" +out of her will, or was forced to say it. Then +he appeals to the women near her to testify that +this was so, and that the voice he heard behind +the curtain was actually the girl's voice. These +various important points being duly ascertained, +in appropriate Arabic words the priest exclaims:</p> + +<p>"I have married this young lady to this man +and this man to this young lady."</p> + +<p>The men present on one side of the curtain +nod and (in Arabic) say they accept the arrangement. +The women are overheard to say words +to the same effect from the other side of the +partition. Congratulations are exchanged, and +more sherbet, tea and sweets consumed.</p> + +<p>The religious ceremony is over, but not the +trials of the bridegroom, now legal husband.</p> + +<p>When sufficient time has elapsed for him to +recover from his previous mental anguish, he is +conveyed by his mother or women relatives into +the harem. All the women are veiled and line +the walls of the drawing-room, where a solitary +chair or cushion on the floor is placed at the end +of the room. He is requested to sit upon it, +which he meekly does. A small tray is now +brought in with tiny little gold coins (silver if +the people are poor) mixed with sweets. The +bridegroom bends his head; and sweets and +coins are poured upon his back and shoulders. +Being round—the coins, not the shoulders—they +run about and are scattered all over the +room. All the ladies present gracefully stoop<a name="Pg_1-198" id="Pg_1-198"></a> +and seize one pellet of gold, which is kept for +good luck; then servants are called in to collect +the remainder which goes to their special +benefit.</p> + +<p>This custom is not unlike our flinging rice for +luck at a married couple.</p> + +<p>The bridegroom then returns to the men's +quarters, where he receives the hearty congratulations +of relatives and friends alike.</p> + +<p>From this moment the girl becomes his wife, +and the husband has the right to see her whenever +he chooses, but not to cohabit with her +until further ordeals have been gone through.</p> + +<p>The husband comes to meet his wife for conversation's +sake in a specially reserved room in +the harem, and each time he comes he brings +presents of jewellery or silks or other valuables +to ingratiate himself. So that, by the time the +real wedding takes place, they can get to be +quite fond of one another.</p> + +<p>There is no special limit of time for the last +ceremony to be celebrated. It is merely suited +to the convenience of the parties when all necessary +arrangements are settled, and circumstances +permit.</p> + +<p>Usually for ten days or less before the wedding +procession takes place a festival is held in the +bridegroom's house, when the Mullahs, the +friends, acquaintances, relations and neighbours +are invited—fresh guests being entertained on +each night. Music, dancing, and lavish refreshments +are again provided for the guests. The +men, of course, are entertained separately in the<a name="Pg_1-199" id="Pg_1-199"></a> +men's quarter, and the women have some fun all +to themselves in the harem.</p> + +<p>On the very last evening of the festival a +grand procession is formed in order to convey +the bride from her house to that of her husband. +He, the husband, waits for her at his residence, +where he is busy entertaining guests.</p> + +<p>All the bridegroom's relations, with smart +carriages—and, if he is in some official position, +as most Persians of good families are,—with +infantry and cavalry soldiers, bands and a large +following of friends and servants on horseback +and on foot proceed to the bride's house.</p> + +<p>A special carriage is reserved for the bride and +her mother or old lady relation, and another for +the bridesmaids. She is triumphantly brought +back to the bridegroom's house, her relations +and friends adding to the number in the +procession.</p> + +<p>Guns are fired and fireworks let off along the +road and from the bride's and bridegroom's +houses. One good feature of all Persian +festivities is that the poor are never forgotten. +So, when the bride is driven along the streets, a +great many sheep and camels are sacrificed before +her carriage to bring the bride luck and to feed +with their flesh the numberless people who congregate +round to divide the meat of the +slaughtered animals. In the house of the bridegroom, +too, any number of sheep are sacrificed +and distributed among the poor.</p> + +<p>There are great rejoicings when the procession +arrives at the house, where the bridegroom is<a name="Pg_1-200" id="Pg_1-200"></a> +anxiously awaiting to receive his spouse. As she +alights from the carriage more sheep are sacrificed +on the door-step—and the husband, too, is +sacrificed to a certain extent, for again he has to +content himself with merely conducting his bride +to the harem and to leave her there. It is only +late in the evening, when all the guests, stuffed +with food, have departed, that the husband is led +by his best man to a special room prepared for +him and his wife in the harem. The bride +comes in, heavily veiled, in the company of her +father or some old and revered relation, who +clasps the hands of husband and wife and joins +them together, making a short and appropriate +speech of congratulation and good wishes for a +happy conjugal existence. Then very wisely +retreats.</p> + +<p>There is yet another obstacle: the removal of +the long embroidered veil which hangs gracefully +over the bride's head down to her knees. +This difficulty is easily surmounted by another +present of jewellery, known as the <i>ruhmuhah</i> or +"reward for showing the face." There is no +further reward needed after that, and they are at +last husband and wife, not only in theory but in +fact.</p> + +<p>True, some gold coins have to be left under the +furniture to appease expecting servants, and the +next day fresh trials have to be endured by the +bride, who has to receive her lady friends and +accept their most hearty congratulations. This +means more music, more professional dancing, +more sweets, more sherbet, more tea. But<a name="Pg_1-201" id="Pg_1-201"></a> +gradually, even the festivities die out, and wife +and husband can settle down to a really happy, +quiet, family life, devoid of temptations and full +of fellow-feeling and thoughtfulness.</p> + +<p>Ten days before this last event takes place the +wife is by custom compelled to send to the +husband's house the endowment which by her +contract she must supply: the whole furniture of +the apartments complete from the kitchen to the +drawing-room, both for the man's quarter and for +her own. Besides this—which involves her in +considerable expense—she, of course, further +conveys with her anything of which she may be +the rightful owner. Her father, if well-off, will +frequently present her on her wedding-day with +one or more villages or a sum in cash, and +occasionally will settle on her what would go to +her in the usual course of time after his death. +All this—in case of divorce or litigation—remains +the wife's property.</p> + +<p>On the other hand, the bridegroom, or his +parents for him, have to settle a sum of money on +the bride before she consents to the marriage, and +this is legally settled upon her by the Mullah in +the wedding contract. She has a right to demand +it whenever she pleases.</p> + +<p>It can be seen by all this that a Persian legal +marriage is not a simple matter nor a cheap +undertaking. The expense and formalities +connected with each wedding are enormous, so +that even if people were inclined to polygamy it is +really most difficult for them to carry their desire +into effect. Among the nobility it has become<a name="Pg_1-202" id="Pg_1-202"></a> +unfashionable and is to-day considered quite +immoral to have more than one wife.</p> + +<p>Partly because the marriages are seldom the +outcome of irresistible—but fast burning out—love; +partly because it is difficult for a husband +and almost impossible for a wife to be unfaithful, +divorces in Persia are not common. Besides, on +divorcing a wife, the husband has to pay her in full +the settlement that has been made upon her, and +this prevents many a rash attempt to get rid of +one's better-half. To kill an unfaithful wife is, +in the eyes of Persians, a cheaper and less degrading +way of obtaining justice against an unpardonable +wrong.</p> + +<p>One hears a good deal in Persia about a famous +and extraordinarily deep well—near Shiraz, +I believe—into which untrue wives were precipitated +by their respective offended husbands, or +by the public executioner; and also how dishonoured +women are occasionally stoned to +death; but these cases are not very frequent +nowadays. The Persian woman is above all +her husband's most intimate friend. He confides +all—or nearly all—his secrets to her. She +does the same, or nearly the same with him. +Their interests are mutual, and the love for their +own children unbounded. Each couple absolutely +severed from the outside world, forbidden +to get intoxicated by their religion, with no +excitements to speak of, and the wife in strict +seclusion—there is really no alternative left for +them than to be virtuous. Women have in +Persia, as in other countries, great influence over<a name="Pg_1-203" id="Pg_1-203"></a> +their respective husbands, and through these +mediums feminine power extends very far, both +in politics and commerce.</p> + +<p>At the husband's death the property is divided +among his children, each male child taking two +shares to each one share for every girl's part, +after one-eighth of the whole property has been +paid to the deceased's widow, who is entitled to +that amount by right.</p> + +<p>Most praiseworthy union exists in most Persian +families, filial love and veneration for parents +being quite as strong as paternal or maternal +affection. Extreme reverence for old age in any +class of man is another trait to be admired in the +Persian character.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-204" id="Pg_1-204"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XX" id="V1-CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Persian women—Their anatomy—Their eyes—<i>Surmah</i>—Age +of puberty—The descendants of Mohammed—Infanticide—Circumcision—Deformities +and abnormalities—The +ear—The teeth and dentistry—The nose—A Persian +woman's indoor dress—The <i>yel</i>—The <i>tadji</i> and other +jewels—Out-of-door dress—The <i>Chakchur</i>—The <i>ruh-band</i>—The +<i>Chudder</i>.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Persia</span>, they say, is the country of the loveliest +women in the world. It probably has that reputation +because few foreign male judges have ever +seen them. The Persians themselves certainly +would prefer them to any other women. Still, +there is no doubt, from what little one sees of +the Persian woman, that she often possesses very +beautiful languid eyes, with a good deal of +animal magnetism in them. Her skin is extremely +fair—as white as that of an Italian +or a French woman—with a slight yellowish +tint which is attractive. They possess when +young very well modelled arms and legs, the +only fault to be found among the majority of +them being the frequent thickness of the wrists +and ankles, which rather takes away from their +refinement. In the very highest classes this is +not so accentuated. The women are usually of<a name="Pg_1-205" id="Pg_1-205"></a> +a fair height, not too small, and carry themselves +fairly well, particularly the women of the +lower classes who are accustomed to carry +weights on their head. The better-off women +walk badly, with long steps and a consequent +stoop forward; whereas the poorer ones walk +more firmly with a movement of the hips and +with the spine well arched inwards. The neck +lacks length, but is nicely rounded, and the head +well set on the shoulders.</p> + +<p>Anatomically, the body is not striking either +for its beauty or its strength or suppleness. The +breasts, except with girls of a very tender age, +become deformed, and very pendant, and the +great tendency to fatness rather interferes with +the artistic beauty of their outlines.</p> + +<p>The skeleton frame of a Persian woman is +curiously constructed, the hip-bones being extremely +developed and broad, whereas the shoulder +blades and shoulders altogether are very narrow +and undeveloped. The hands and feet are generally +good, particularly the hand, which is less +developed and not so coarse as the lower limbs +generally and the feet in particular. The fingers +are usually long and quite supple, with well-proportioned +nails. The thumb is, nevertheless, +hardly ever in good proportion with the rest of +the hand. It generally lacks length and character. +The feet bear the same characteristics as the hands +except, as I have said, that they are infinitely +coarser. Why this should be I cannot explain, +except that intermarriage with different races +and social requirements may be the cause of it.<a name="Pg_1-206" id="Pg_1-206"></a></p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-20.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-20_th.jpg" alt="Persian Woman and Child." title="Persian Woman and Child." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Woman and Child.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-21.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-21_th.jpg" alt="A Picturesque Beggar Girl." title="A Picturesque Beggar Girl." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Picturesque Beggar Girl.</p> + +<p>The head I have left to the last, because it is +from an artist's point of view the most picturesque +part of a Persian woman's anatomy. +It may possibly lack fine chiselled features and +angularity; and the first impression one receives +on looking at a Persian woman's face is that it +wants strength and character—all the lines of the +face being broad, uninterrupted curves. The +nose is broad and rounded, the cheeks round, the +chin round, the lips large, voluptuous and round—very +seldom tightly closed; in fact, the lower +lip is frequently drooping. But when it comes +to eyes, eyelashes and eyebrows, there are few +women in the world who can compete with the +Persian. There is exuberant fire and expression +in the Persian feminine organs of vision, large +and almond-shaped, well-cut, and softened by +eyelashes of abnormal length, both on the upper +and lower lid. The powerful, gracefully-curved +eyebrows extend far into the temples, where +they end into a fine point, from the nose, over +which they are very frequently joined. The +iris of the eye is abnormally large, of very rich +dark velvety brown, with jet black pupils, and +the so-called "white of the eye" is of a much +darker tinge than with Europeans—almost a +light bluish grey. The women seem to have +wonderful control over the muscles of the eyelids +and brows, which render the eyes dangerously +expressive. The habit of artificially blackening +the under lid with <i>Surmah</i>, too, adds, to no +mean extent, to the luminosity and vivid power +of the eyes in contrast to the alabaster-like,<a name="Pg_1-207" id="Pg_1-207"></a> +really beautiful skin of the younger Persian +women.</p> + +<p>I said "younger," for owing to racial and +climatic conditions the Persian female is a full-grown +woman in every way at the age of ten or +twelve, sometimes even younger. They generally +keep in good compact condition until they are +about twenty or twenty-five, when the fast expanding +process begins, deforming even the most +beautiful into shapeless masses of flesh and fat. +They are said, however, to be capable of bearing +children till the mature age of forty to forty-five, +although from my own observation thirty-five to +forty I should take to be the more common +average at which Persian women are in full +possession of prolific powers.</p> + +<p>In the case of Sayids, the descendants of +Mahommed, both sexes of whom are reputed +for their extraordinary powers and vitality, +women are said not to become sterile till after +the age of fifty.</p> + +<p>Whether this is a fact or not, I cannot say, +but it is certain that the Sayids are a superior +race altogether, more wiry and less given to +orgies—drinking and smoking,—which may +account for their natural powers being preserved +to a later age than with most other natives of +Persia. Their women are very prolific. Sayid +men and women are noticeable even from a tender +age for their robustness and handsome features. +They are dignified and serious in their demeanour, +honest and trustworthy, and are a fine +race altogether.<a name="Pg_1-208" id="Pg_1-208"></a></p> + +<p>Infanticide after birth is not very common in +Persia, but abortion <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'artifically'">artificially</ins> procured has, +particularly of late, become frequent for the +prevention of large families that cannot be supported. +This is done by primitive methods, not +dissimilar to those used in European countries. +Medicine is occasionally also administered internally. +These cases are naturally illegal, and +although the law of the country is lenient—or, +rather, short-sighted—in such matters, any +palpable case, if discovered, would be severely +punished.</p> + +<p>The umbilicus of newly-born children is inevitably +tied by a doctor and not by a member +of the family, as with some nations. Circumcision +is practised on male children when +at the age of forty days. It is merely performed +as a sanitary precaution, and is not undergone +for religion's sake.</p> + +<p>There are few countries where deformities and +abnormalities are as common as they are in +Persia. In women less than in men; still, they +too are afflicted with a good share of Nature's +freaks. The harelip is probably the most +common abnormality. Webbed and additional +fingers and toes come next. Birth-marks are +very common—especially very large black moles +on the face and body.</p> + +<p>Persian ears are very seldom beautiful. They +are generally more or less malformed and somewhat +coarse in modelling, although they seem to +answer pretty well the purpose for which they +are created. But although the hearing is very<a name="Pg_1-209" id="Pg_1-209"></a> +good in a general sense, I found that the Persian, +of either sex, had great difficulty in differentiating +very fine modulations of sounds, and this is +probably due to the under-development or degeneration +of the auricular organ, just the same +as in the ears of purely Anglo-Saxon races.</p> + +<p>To an observant eye, to my mind, there is no +part of people's anatomy that shows character +and refinement more plainly than the ear. +Much more delicate in texture than the hands +or feet, the ear is, on the other hand, less subject +to misleading modifications by artificial causes +which are bound to affect the other extremities.</p> + +<p>The ear of a Persian is, in the greater percentage +of cases, the ear of a degenerate. It is +coarse and lumpy, and somewhat shapeless, with +animal qualities strongly marked in it. Occasionally +one does come across a good ear in +Persia, but very rarely.</p> + +<p>Similar remarks might apply to teeth. When +young, men and women have good teeth, of +fairly good shape and length, and frequently so +very firmly set in their sockets as to allow their +possessors to lift heavy weights with them, +pulling ropes tight, etc., when the strength of +the hands is not sufficient. One frequently +notices, however, irregularity, or additional teeth—caused +again by intermixture of race—the +upper teeth not fitting properly the lower ones, +and causing undue friction, early injury to the +enamel, and consequent decay. This is also +greatly intensified by the unhealthy state of +Persian blood, especially in people inhabiting the<a name="Pg_1-210" id="Pg_1-210"></a> +cities, where the worst of venereal complaints +has crept in a more or less virulent form into the +greater part of the population. Add to this, a +disorganized digestion, coloration by constant +smoking, and the injury to the enamel brought +on by the great consumption of sugary stuff; +and if one marvels at all it is that Persian teeth +are as good and serviceable as they are to a fair +age.</p> + +<p>Native Persian dentistry is not in a very +advanced stage. With the exception of extraction +by primitive and painful methods, +nothing efficient is done to arrest the progress of +decay.</p> + +<p>The Persian nose is well shaped—but it is not +perfection, mind you—and generally does not +perform its duties in a creditable manner. It +has nearly all the drawbacks of civilised noses. +Partly owing to defective digestive organs and +the escaping fumes of decayed teeth, the nose, +really very well shaped in young children, +generally alters its shape as they get older, and +it becomes blocked up with mucous matter, +causing it unduly to expand at the bridge, and +giving it rather a stumpy, fat appearance. The +nostrils are not very sharply and powerfully cut +in most cases, and are rounded up and undecided, +a sign of pliant character.</p> + +<p>Women have better cut and healthier noses +than men, as they lead a more wholesome life. +In children and young people, however, very +handsome noses are to be seen in Persia. The +sense of odour is not very keen in either sex; in<a name="Pg_1-211" id="Pg_1-211"></a> +fact, it is probably the dullest of all Persian senses, +which is not unfortunate for them in a country +where potent smells abound. In experimenting +upon healthy specimens, it was found that only +comparatively strong odours could be detected +by them, nor could they distinguish the difference +between two different scents, when they +did succeed in smelling them at all!</p> + +<p>A Persian woman is not seen at her best when +she is dressed. This sounds very shocking, but +it is quite true. Of all the ugly, inartistic, +clumsy, uncomfortable, tasteless, absurd female +attires, that of the Persian lady ranks first.</p> + +<p>Let us see a Persian lady indoors, and describe +her various garments in the order in which they +strike the observer. First of all one's eye is +caught by a "bundle" of short skirts—usually of +very bright colours—sticking out at the hips, +and not unlike the familiar attire of our ballet +girls—only shorter. These skirts are made of +cotton, silk or satin, according to the lady's +wealth and position.</p> + +<p>There are various versions of how such a +fashion was adopted by Persian ladies. It is of +comparatively modern importation, and up to +fifty or sixty years ago women wore long skirts +reaching down to the ankle. The skirts gradually +got shorter and shorter as the women got +more civilised—so a Persian assures me—and +when Nasr-ed-din Shah visited Europe and +brought back to his harem the glowing accounts +of the ladies' dress—or, rather, undress—at +the Empire and Alhambra music-hall ballets,<a name="Pg_1-212" id="Pg_1-212"></a> +which seem to have much attracted him, the +women of his court, in order to compete with +their European rivals, and to gain afresh the +favour of their sovereign, immediately adopted +a similar attire. Scissors were busy, and down +(or up) were the skirts reduced to a minimum +length.</p> + +<p>As in other countries, fashions in men and +women are copied from the Court, and so the +women from one end of Persia to the other, in +the cities, took up the hideous custom. One of +the principal points in the fashion is that the +skirt must stick out at the sides. These skirts +are occasionally very elaborate, with heavy gold +braiding round them, richly embroidered, or +covered all over with small pearls. The shape +of the skirt is the same in all classes of women, +but of course the difference lies in the material +with which the dress is made.</p> + +<p>Under the skirt appear two heavy, shapeless +legs, in long foreign stockings with garters, or +in tight trousers of cotton or other light material—a +most unseemly sight. When only the +family are present the latter garments are frequently +omitted.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the only attractive part of a woman's +indoor toilet is the neat zouave jacket with +sleeves, breast and back profusely embroidered +in gold, or with pearls. It is called the <i>yel</i>. +When lady friends are expected to call, some +additions are made to the costume. A long veil +fastened to the belt and supported on the projecting +skirt hangs down to the feet. Sometimes<a name="Pg_1-213" id="Pg_1-213"></a> +it is left to drag behind. It is quite transparent, +and its purposeless use none of my Persian +friends could explain. "The women like it, +that is all," was the only answer I could elicit, and +that was certainly enough to settle the matter.</p> + +<p>Persian women are extremely fond of jewellery, +diamonds, pearls and precious stones. On the +head, the hair being plastered down with a parting +in the centre and knot behind on the neck, +a diadem is worn by the smarter ladies, the <i>tadji</i>. +Those who can afford it have a <i>tadji</i> of diamonds, +the shape varying according to fashion; others +display sprays of pearls. The <i>tadji</i> is a luxurious, +heavy ornament only worn on grand occasions; +then there is another more commonly used, the +<i>nim tadji</i>, or small diadem, a lighter and handsome +feathery jewel worn either in the upper +centre of the forehead, or very daintily and in a +most coquettish way on one side of the head, +where it really looks very pretty indeed against +the shiny jet black hair of the wearer.</p> + +<p>Heavy necklaces of gold, pearls, turquoises and +amber are much in vogue, and also solid and +elaborate gold rings and bracelets in profusion on +the fingers and wrists.</p> + +<p>Out of doors women in the cities look very +different to what they do indoors, and cannot +be accused of any outward immodesty. One +suspects blue or black bag-like phantoms whom +one meets in the streets to be women, but there +is really nothing to go by to make one sure of +it, for the street costume of the Persian lady is +as complete a disguise as was ever conceived.<a name="Pg_1-214" id="Pg_1-214"></a></p> + +<p>Before going out a huge pair of loose trousers +or bloomers—the <i>chakchur</i>—fastened at the waist +and pulled in at the ankle, are assumed, and a +<i>ruh-band</i>—a thick calico or cotton piece of cloth +about a yard wide, hangs in front of the face, a +small slit some three to four inches long and one +and a half wide, very daintily netted with heavy +embroidery, being left for ventilation's sake and as +a look-out window. This is fastened by means +of a hook behind the head to prevent its falling, +and is held down with one hand at the lower part. +Over all this the <i>chudder</i>—a black or blue +piece of silk or cotton about two yards square +and matching the colour of the trousers, covers +the whole from head to foot, and just leaves +enough room in front for the ventilating parallelogram.</p> + +<p>In public places this cloak is held with the +spare hand quite close to the chin, so that, with +the exception of a mass of black or blue clothing +and a tiny bit of white embroidery over the eyes, +one sees absolutely nothing of the Persian woman +when she promenades about the streets. With +sloping shoulders, broad hips, and huge bloomers, +her silhouette is not unlike a soda-water bottle.</p> + +<p>Her feet are socked in white or blue, and she +toddles along on dainty slippers with no back to +the heels. A husband himself could not +recognise his wife out of doors, nor a brother +his sister, unless by some special mark on her +clothing, such as a spot of grease or a patch—otherwise, +poor and rich, young and old, are all +dressed alike. Of course the diadem and other<a name="Pg_1-215" id="Pg_1-215"></a> +such ornaments are only worn in the house, and +the <i>chudder</i> rests directly on the head.</p> + +<p>Yet with some good fortune one occasionally +gets glimpses of women's faces, for face-screens +and <i>chudders</i> and the rest of them have their +ways of dropping occasionally, or being blown +away by convenient winds, or falling off unexpectedly. +But this is only the case with the +prettier women, the ugly old ones being most +particular not to disillusion and disappoint the +male passers-by.</p> + +<p>This is possibly another reason why hasty +travellers have concluded that Persian women +must all be beautiful.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-216" id="Pg_1-216"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Shah's birthday—Illuminations—The Shah in his automobile—Ministers +in audience—Etiquette at the Shah's +Court—The Shah—A graceful speaker—The Shah's +directness of speech—The Kajars and the Mullahs—The +<i>défilé</i> of troops—A blaze of diamonds.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> are great rejoicings in Teheran and all +over Persia on the Shah's birthday and the night +previous to it, when grand illuminations of all +the principal buildings, official residences and +business concerns take place. Large sums of +money are spent in decorating the buildings +suitably on such an auspicious occasion, not as in +our country with cheap, vari-coloured cotton rags +and paper floral ornaments, but with very handsome +carpets, numberless looking-glasses of all +sizes and shapes, pictures in gold frames, plants +and fountains. Nor are the lights used of a +tawdry kind. No, they are the best candles that +money can purchase, fitted in nickel-plated +candlesticks with tulip globes—thousands of them—and +crystal candelabras of Austrian make, or +rows of paraffin lamps hired for the occasion.</p> + +<p>It is customary in Teheran even for foreign +business houses to illuminate their premises +lavishly, and the Atabeg Azam or Prime Minister<a name="Pg_1-217" id="Pg_1-217"></a> +and other high officials go during the evening to +pay calls in order to show their appreciation of +the compliment to their sovereign, and admire +the decorations of the leading banks and +merchants' buildings.</p> + +<p>In front of each illuminated house carpets are +spread and a number of chairs are prepared for +friends and guests who wish to come and admire +the show. Sherbet, tea, coffee, whisky, brandy, +champagne, cigarettes and all sorts of other +refreshments are provided, and by the time you +have gone round to inspect all the places where +you have been invited, you have been refreshed +to such an extent by the people, who are very +jolly and hospitable, that you begin to see the +illuminations go round you of their own accord.</p> + +<p>The show that I witnessed was very interesting +and really well done, the effect in the bazaar, +with all the lights reflected in the mirrors, +and the gold and carpets against the ancient +wood-work of the caravanserais, being quite +picturesque. The crowds of open-mouthed +natives were, as a whole, well behaved, and quite +amusing to watch. They seemed quite absorbed +in studying the details of each bit of decoration. +The Bank of Persia was decorated with much +artistic taste. Side by side, in the wind, two +enormous flags—the British and the Persian—flew +on its façade.</p> + +<p>Fireworks were let off till a late hour of the +night from various parts of the town, and bands +and strolling musicians played in the squares, in +the bazaar, and everywhere.<a name="Pg_1-218" id="Pg_1-218"></a></p> + +<p>The following morning the Shah came in +his automobile to town from his country +residence, driven, as usual, by a Frenchman. +The Persian and foreign Ministers were to be +received in audience early in the morning, and +I was to be presented after by Sir Arthur +Hardinge, our Minister at the Shah's Court.</p> + +<p>The strict etiquette of any Court—whether +European or Eastern—does remind one very +forcibly of the comic opera, only it is occasionally +funnier.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-22.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-22_th.jpg" alt="Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah." title="Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Ruku Sultaneh</span>, Brother of the present Shah.</p> + +<p>As early as 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we left the Legation in a +procession—all on horseback—the officials in +their diplomatic uniforms, with plenty of gold +braiding, and cocked hats; I in my own frock-coat +and somebody else's tall hat, for mine had +unluckily come to grief. We rode along the +very dusty streets and arrived at the Palace, +where we got off our horses. We entered the +large court of the Alabaster Throne. There +were a great many dismounted cavalry soldiers, +and we were then led into a small ante-room on +the first floor where all the foreign representatives +of other nations in Teheran were waiting, +received by a Persian high official.</p> + +<p>We were detained here for a considerable +time, and then marched through the garden to +another building. By the number of pairs of +shoes lining both sides of the staircase in quadruple +rows, it was evident that his Majesty had +many visitors. We were ushered into the +Jewelled Globe Room adjoining the Shah's small +reception room.<a name="Pg_1-219" id="Pg_1-219"></a></p> + +<p>After some adjustment of clothes and collars +in their correct positions, and of swords and +belts, the door opened and the Ministers were +let in to the Shah's presence. One peculiarity +of the Shah's court is that it is etiquette to +appear before the sovereign with one's hat on, +and making a military salute. In former days +carpet slippers were provided for the Ministers +to put on over the shoes, but the custom has of +late been abandoned, as it looked too ludicrous, +even for a court, to see the ministers, secretaries, +and attachés in their grand uniforms dragging +their feet along for fear of losing a <i>pantoufle</i> on +the way.</p> + +<p>There was the usual speech of greeting and +congratulation on the part of the <i>doyen</i> Minister, +and presently the crowd of foreign representatives +returned to the ante-room in the most approved +style, walking backwards and stooping low.</p> + +<p>My turn came next. As we entered, the Shah +was standing almost in the centre of the room, +with the familiar aigrette in his <i>kolah</i> (black +headgear) and his chest a blaze of diamonds. +He rested his right hand on a handsome jewelled +sword. He looked pale and somewhat worn, +but his features were decidedly handsome, without +being powerful. One could plainly see +depicted on his face an expression of extreme +good-nature—almost too soft and thoughtful a +face for a sovereign of an Eastern country. His +thick underlip added a certain amount of obstinate +strength to his features, which was counter-balanced +by the dreamy, far-away look of his<a name="Pg_1-220" id="Pg_1-220"></a> +eyes heavily shadowed by prominent lids. His +thick black eyebrows and huge moustache were +in great contrast to the Shah's pallid face. His +Majesty appeared bored, and was busy masticating +a walnut when we entered, the shell of +which lay in <i>débris</i> by the side of two additional +entire walnuts and a nut-cracker on a small +jewelled side-table.</p> + +<p>We stood at attention with our hats on while +Sir Arthur, who, as we have seen, is a linguist of +great distinction, delivered to the sovereign, a +most charming and graceful speech in Persian +with an oriental fluency of flowery language that +nearly took my breath away.</p> + +<p>The Shah seemed highly delighted at the nice +compliments paid him by our Minister, and +graciously smiled in appreciation. Then Sir +Arthur broke forth in French—which he speaks +like a Frenchman—and with astounding grace +proceeded to the presentation. The Shah was +curt in his words and much to the point, and I +was greatly delighted at the charming directness +of his remarks. There was no figure of +speech, no tawdry metaphor in the compliment +paid me.</p> + +<p>I had presented his Majesty with two of my +books.</p> + +<p>"<i>Vous écrivez livres?</i>" thundered the Shah to +me in lame French, as he stroked his moustache +in a nervous manner.</p> + +<p>"<i>Malheureusement pour le public, oui, Majesté</i>," +(Unfortunately for the public, yes, your Majesty), +I replied, touching my hat in military fashion.<a name="Pg_1-221" id="Pg_1-221"></a></p> + +<p>"<i>Combien de livres avez vous écrits?</i>" (How +many books have you written?)</p> + +<p>"<i>Quatre, Majesté.</i>" (Four, your Majesty.)</p> + +<p>"<i>Combien livres avez vous envoyé moi?</i>" (How +many books have you sent me?) he roared again +in his Perso adaptation of French.</p> + +<p>"<i>Deux, Majesté.</i>" (Two, your Majesty.)</p> + +<p>"<i>Envoyez encore deux autres.</i>" (Send the other +two.) And with a nod the conversation was +over, and we retreated backwards through the +glass door, but not before Sir Arthur Hardinge +had completed the interview with another most +appropriate and graceful little speech.</p> + +<p>The foreign Ministers departed, but I was +allowed to remain in the Palace grounds to witness +the various native officials and representatives +paying their salaams to the Shah.</p> + +<p>After us the foreigners in Persian employ were +received in audience, and it was interesting to +notice that they had adopted the Persian headgear, +and some even the Persian pleated frock-coat. +The Shah's reception room had a very +large window overlooking the garden. The +glass was raised and a throne was placed close +to the edge of the window on which the Shah +seated himself with a <i>kalian</i> by his side.</p> + +<p>Then began the <i>défilé</i> of native representatives. +The <i>Kajars</i> in their grand robes and white +turbans paraded before the window, and then +forming a semicircle salaamed the head of their +family. One of them stepped forward and +chanted a long poem, while the Shah puffed +away at the <i>kalian</i> and stroked his luxuriant<a name="Pg_1-222" id="Pg_1-222"></a> +moustache. Every now and then the sovereign +bowed in acknowledgment of the good wishes +paid him, and his bow was repeated by the +crowd below in the court. After the Kajars +came the Mullahs. Again another recitation of +poetry, again more bows, more <i>kalian</i> smoking. +Then foreign generals stood before the window, +and native officers, Court servants and eunuchs. +The <i>défilé</i> of troops, colleges, merchant associations +and schools came next, and was very +interesting.</p> + +<p>Persian Cossacks in their nice long white +uniforms and formidable chest ornamentations; +bandsmen with tin helmets and linoleum top +boots; hussars with plenty of braiding on cotton +coats and trousers; infantrymen, artillerymen, +military cadets,—all were reviewed in turn by +his Majesty, who displayed his royal satisfaction +by an occasional bow.</p> + +<p>There were no shrieks of enthusiasm, no applause, +no hurrahs, as they went, but they all +walked past the royal window in a quiet, dignified +way—no easy matter, considering the extraordinary +clothing that some were made to wear. +One had a sort of suspicion that, not unlike the +armies marching on the stage, one recognised +the same contingents marching past several times +to make up for numbers, but that did not take +away from the picturesqueness of the scene, in +the really beautiful garden, with lovely fountains +spouting and flowers in full bloom.</p> + +<p>The procession with banners and music went +on for a very long time, but at last the<a name="Pg_1-223" id="Pg_1-223"></a> +garden was cleared of all people. His Majesty +wished to descend for a little walk.</p> + +<p>Absolutely alone, the Shah sauntered about, +apparently quite relieved that the ordeal was +over. The Atabeg Azam was signalled to +approach, and Prime Minister and Sovereign +had a friendly conversation.</p> + +<p>Although personally not fond of jewellery, I +must confess that I was much impressed by the +resplendent beauty of the Shah's diamonds when +a ray of sun shone upon them. His chest +and the aigrette on the cap were a blaze of +dazzling light, with a myriad of most beautiful +flashing colours.</p> + +<p>The great social excitement of the year in +Teheran was the Prime Minister's evening +party on the Shah's birthday, when all the +higher Persian officials were invited, and nearly +all the Europeans resident in Teheran, regardless +of their grade or social position.</p> + +<p>This evening party was preceded by an official +dinner to the members of the Legations. Elaborate +fireworks were let off in the beautiful +gardens and reflected in the ponds in front of +the house, and the gardens were tastefully +illuminated with vari-coloured lanterns and +decorated with flags.</p> + +<p>The house itself was full of interesting objects of +art, and had spacious rooms in the best European +style. Persian officials, resplendent in gold-braided +uniforms, their chests a mass of decorations, +were politeness itself to all guests. Excellent +Persian bands, playing European airs, enlivened<a name="Pg_1-224" id="Pg_1-224"></a> +the evening, and it was quite interesting to meet +the rank and file and beauty of Teheran official +and commercial life all here assembled. Persian +ladies, naturally, did not appear, but a few +Armenian ladies of the better classes were to be +observed.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-23.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-23_th.jpg" alt="The Shah in his Automobile." title="The Shah in his Automobile." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Shah in his Automobile.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-24.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-24_th.jpg" alt="The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran." title="The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran.</p> + +<p>The gentle hint given to the guests to depart, +when the Prime Minister got tired and wanted +to retire, was quaintly clever. A soft music was +heard to come from his bedroom. It was the +signal. All hastened to make their best bows +and departed.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-225" id="Pg_1-225"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Shah's Palace—The finest court—Alabaster throne hall—A +building in European style—The Museum—A chair of +solid gold and silver—The <i>Atch</i>—Paintings—The banqueting +room—The audience room—Beautiful carpets—An +elaborate clock—Portraits of sovereigns and their places—Pianos +and good music—The Jewelled-Globe room—Queen +Victoria's photograph—Moving pictures—Conservatory—Roman +mosaics—Toys—Adam and Eve—Royal and imperial +oil paintings—A decided slight—The picture gallery—Valuable +collection of arms—Strange paintings—Coins—Pearls—Printing +press—Shah's country places.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">One</span> is told that one must not leave Teheran +without carefully inspecting the Shah's Palace, +its treasures and its museum. A special permit +must be obtained for this through the Legation +or the Foreign Office.</p> + +<p>The first large court which I entered on this +second visit has pretty tiled buildings at the sides, +with its rectangular reservoir full of swans, and +bordered by trees, is probably the most impressive +part of the Palace. Fountains play in the +centre, the spouts being cast-iron women's heads +of the cheapest European kind.</p> + +<p>The lofty throne hall stands at the end, its +decorative curtains screening its otherwise unwalled +frontage. For my special benefit the<a name="Pg_1-226" id="Pg_1-226"></a> +curtains were raised, leaving exposed the two +high spiral stone columns that support the roof +in front. The bases of these columns bore conventionalized +vases with sunflowers and leaf ornamentations, +while the capitols were in three +superposed fluted tiers, the uppermost being +the largest in diameter. The frieze of the ceiling +was concave, made of bits of looking-glass and +gold, and the ceiling itself was also entirely composed +of mirrors. The back was of shiny green +and blue, with eight stars and two large looking-glasses, +while at the sides there was a blue frieze.</p> + +<p>Two large portraits of Nasr-ed-din Shah, two +battle scenes and two portraits of Fath-Ali-Shah +decorated the walls. The two side doors of the +throne-hall were of beautifully inlaid wood, and +the two doors directly behind the throne were +of old Shiraz work with ivory inscriptions upon +them in the centre. The lower part of the wall +was of coloured alabaster, with flower ornaments +and birds, principally hawks. There were also +other less important pictures, two of which I was +told represented Nadir and Mahmud Shah, and +two unidentified.</p> + +<p>High up in the back wall were five windows, +of the usual Persian pattern, and also a cheap +gold frame enclosing a large canvas that represented +a half-naked figure of a woman with a +number of fowls, a cat and a dog. Two gold +<i>consoles</i> were the only heavy articles of movable +furniture to be seen.</p> + +<p>The spacious throne of well-marked yellow +alabaster was quite gorgeous, and had two plat<a name="Pg_1-227" id="Pg_1-227"></a>forms, +the first, with a small fountain, being +reached by three steps, the second a step higher. +The platform was supported by demons, "guebre" +figures all round, and columns resting on +the backs of feline animals. On the upper platform +was spread an ancient carpet.</p> + +<p>On leaving this hall we entered a second court +giving entrance to a building in the European +style, with a wide staircase leading to several +reception rooms on the first floor. One—the +largest—had a billiard table in the centre, expensive +furniture along the walls, and curtains of +glaring yellow and red plush, the chairs being +of the brightest blue velvet. Taken separately +each article of furniture was of the very best +kind, but it seemed evident that whoever furnished +that room did his utmost to select colours +that would not match.</p> + +<p>There were two Parisian desks and a fine old +oak inlaid desk, a capital inlaid bureau, manufactured +by a Russian in Teheran, and some +Sultanabad carpets not more than fifty years old. +On the shelves and wherever else a place could +be found stood glass decorations of questionable +artistic taste, and many a vase with stiff bunches +of hideous artificial flowers.</p> + +<p>Let us enter the adjoining Museum, a huge +room in five sections, as it were, each section having +a huge chandelier of white and blue Austrian +glass, suspended from the ceiling. There are glass +cases all round crammed full of things arranged +with no regard to their value, merit, shape, size, +colour or origin. Beautiful Chinese and Japanese<a name="Pg_1-228" id="Pg_1-228"></a> +<i>cloisonné</i> stands next to the cheapest Vienna plaster +statuette representing an ugly child with huge +spectacles on his nose, and the most exquisite +Sèvres and other priceless ceramic ware is grouped +with empty bottles and common glass restaurant +decanters. In company with these will be a +toy—a monkey automatically playing a fiddle.</p> + +<p>Costly jade and cheap prints were together in +another case; copies of old paintings of saints and +the Virgin, coloured photographs of theatrical +and music-hall stars, and of picturesque scenery, +a painting of the Shah taken in his apartments, +jewels, gold ornaments inlaid with precious +stones, a beautiful malachite set consisting of +clock, inkstand, vases, and a pair of candlesticks; +meteoric stones and fossil shells—all were displayed +in the utmost confusion along the shelves.</p> + +<p>At the further end of the Museum, reached +by three steps, was a gaudy throne chair of solid +gold and silver enamelled. The throne had +amphoras at the sides and a sunflower in diamonds +behind it. The seat was of red brocade, +and the chair had very small arms. It rested on +a six-legged platform with two supports and two +ugly candelabras.</p> + +<p>A glance at the remaining glass cases of the +museum reveals the same confusion; everything +smothered in dust, everything uncared for. One's +eye detects at once a valuable set of china, and +some lovely axes, pistols and swords inlaid in +gold, ivory and silver. Then come busts of +Bismarck and Moltke, a plaster clown, tawdry +painted fans and tortoiseshell ones; a set of the<a name="Pg_1-229" id="Pg_1-229"></a> +most common blue table-service, and two high +candelabras, green and white; a leather dressing-bag +with silver fittings (unused), automatic +musical figures, shilling candlesticks, artificial +coloured fruit in marble, and a really splendid +silver dinner-service.</p> + +<p>From the Museum we passed into the <i>Atch</i>, a +kind of store-room, wherein were numberless +cigar-boxes, wicker-work baskets, and badly-kept +tiger skins. Here were photographs of +some of the Shah's favourites, a great assortment +of nut-crackers—the Persians love walnuts—cheap +prints in profusion, and some good +antelope-skins.</p> + +<p>This led into the banqueting room, in the +European style—and quite a good, sober style +this time. The room was lighted by column +candelabras, and there was a collection of the +Shah's family portraits in medallions; also a +large-sized phonograph, which is said to afford +much amusement to His Majesty and his +guests.</p> + +<p>The paintings on the walls ran very much to +the nude, and none were very remarkable, if one +excepts a life-size nude figure of a woman sitting +and in the act of caressing a dove. It is a very +clever copy of a painting by Foragne in the +Shah's picture gallery, and has been done by a +Persian artist named Kamaol-el-Mulk, who, I +was told, had studied in Paris.</p> + +<p>Most interesting of all in the room, however, +was the exquisite old carpet with a delightful +design of roses. It was the carpet that<a name="Pg_1-230" id="Pg_1-230"></a> +Nasr-ed-din Shah brought to Europe with him +to spread under his chair.</p> + +<p>The dining-room bore evident signs of His +Majesty's hasty departure for the country. On +the tables were piled up anyhow mountains of +dishes, plates, wine-glasses, and accessories, the +table service made in Europe being in most +excellent taste, white and gold with a small circle +in which the Persian "Lion and Sun" were +surmounted by the regal crown.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-25.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-25_th.jpg" alt="In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran." title="In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran.</p> + +<p>We go next into the Shah's favourite apartments, +where he spends most of his time when +in Teheran. We are now in the small room in +which I had already been received in audience +by his Majesty on his birthday, a room made +entirely of mirrors. There was a low and +luxurious red couch on the floor, and we trod on +magnificent soft silk carpets of lovely designs. +One could not resist feeling with one's fingers the +deliciously soft Kerman rug of a fascinating +artistic green, and a charming red carpet from +Sultanabad. The others came from Isfahan and +Kashan. The most valuable and beautiful of all, +however, was the white rug, made in Sultanabad, +on which the Shah stands when receiving in +audience.</p> + +<p>Next after the carpets, a large clock by +Benson with no less than thirteen different dials, +which told one at a glance the year, the month, +the week, the day, the moon, the hour, minutes, +seconds, and anything else one might wish to +know, was perhaps the most noticeable item in +the Shah's room.<a name="Pg_1-231" id="Pg_1-231"></a></p> + +<p>There was nothing in the furniture to appeal to +one, the chairs and tables being of cheap bamboo +of the familiar folding pattern such as are +commonly characteristic of superior boarding-houses. +In the way of art there was a large +figure of a woman resting under a palm tree, a +photographic enlargement of the Shah's portrait, +and on the Shah's writing-desk two handsome +portraits of the Emperor and Empress of Russia, +the Emperor occupying the highest place of +honour. Two smaller photographs of the Czar +and Czarina were to be seen also in shilling +plush frames on another writing-desk, by the +side of an electric clock and night-light.</p> + +<p>The eye was attracted by three terrestrial +globes and an astronomical one with constellations +standing on a table. A number of very +tawdry articles were lying about on the other +pieces of furniture; such were a metal dog +holding a ten-shilling watch, paper frames, cheap +imitation leather articles, numerous photographs +of the Shah, a copy of the <i>Petit Journal</i> +framed, and containing a representation of the +attempt on the Shah's life, an amber service, and +last, but not least, the nut-cracker and the +empty nutshells, the contents of which the Shah +was in process of eating when I had an audience +of him some days before, still lying undisturbed +upon a small desk. The Shah's special chair was +embroidered in red and blue.</p> + +<p>All this was reflected myriads of times in the +diamond-shaped mirror ceiling and walls, and +the effect was somewhat dazzling. The room<a name="Pg_1-232" id="Pg_1-232"></a> +had a partition, and on the other side was an +ample couch for his Majesty to rest upon. In +each reception room is to be seen a splendid +grand piano, the music of which, when good, +the Shah is said passionately to enjoy. One of +his aides de camp—a European—is an excellent +pianist and composer.</p> + +<p>We now come to the world-renowned "Jewelled-Globe" +room, and of course one makes at +once for the priceless globe enclosed in a glass +case in the centre of the room. The frame of +the large globe is said to be of solid gold and so +is the tripod stand, set in rubies and diamonds. +The Globe, to do justice to its name, is covered +all over with precious stones, the sea being +represented by green emeralds, and the continents +by rubies. The Equator line is set in +diamonds and also the whole area of Persian +territory.</p> + +<p>There is nothing else of great artistic interest +here, and it depressed one to find that, although the +portraits in oil and photographs of the Emperors +of Russia and Austria occupied prominent places +of honour in the Shah's apartments, the only +image of our Queen Victoria was a wretched +faded cabinet photograph in a twopenny paper +frame, thrown carelessly among empty envelopes +and writing paper in a corner of his Majesty's +writing desk. Princess Beatrice's photograph +was near it, and towering above them in the +most prominent place was another picture of +the Emperor of Russia. We, ourselves, may +attach little meaning to these trifling details,<a name="Pg_1-233" id="Pg_1-233"></a> +but significant are the inferences drawn by the +natives themselves.</p> + +<p>In this room, as in most of the others, there is +Bohemian glass in great profusion, and a "one +year chronometer" of great precision. A really +beautiful inlaid ivory table is disfigured by a +menagerie of coloured miniature leaden cats, +lions, lizards, dogs, a children's kaleidoscope, and +some badly-stuffed birds, singing automatically. +On another table were more glass vases and a +variety of articles made of cockle shells on +pasteboard, cycle watches, and brass rings with +imitation stones.</p> + +<p>Adjoining this room is a small boudoir, +possessing the latest appliances of civilisation. +It contains another grand piano, a large apparatus +for projecting moving pictures on a screen, and +an ice-cream soda fountain with four taps, of +the type one admires—but does not wish to +possess—in the New York chemists' shops!! +The Shah's, however, lacks three things,—the +soda, the ice, and the syrups!</p> + +<p>Less modern but more reposeful is the next ante-room +with white walls and pretty wood ceiling. +It has some military pictures of no great value.</p> + +<p>On going down ten steps we find ourselves in +a long conservatory with blue and yellow tiles +and a semi-open roof. A channel of water runs +in the centre of the floor, and is the outlet of three +octagonal basins and of spouts at intervals of ten +feet. There is a profusion of lemon and orange +trees at the sides of the water, and the place is +kept deliciously cool.<a name="Pg_1-234" id="Pg_1-234"></a></p> + +<p>Here we emerge again into the gardens, which +are really beautiful although rather overcrowded, +but which have plenty of fountains and huge +tanks, with handsome buildings reflected into +the water.</p> + +<p>The high tiled square towers, one of the +landmarks of Teheran, are quite picturesque, +but some of the pleasure of looking at the +really fine view is destroyed by numerous ugly +cast-iron coloured figures imported from Austria +which disfigure the sides of all the reservoirs, +and are quite out of keeping with the character +of everything round them.</p> + +<p>We are now conducted into another building, +where Roman mosaics occupy a leading position, +a large one of the Coliseum being quite a valuable +work of art; but on entering the second +room we are suddenly confronted by a collection of +hideous tin ware and a specimen case of ordinary +fish hooks, manufactured by Messrs. W. Bartlett +and Sons. Next to this is a framed autograph +of "Nina de Muller of St. Petersburg," and a +photographic gathering of gay young ladies with +suitable inscriptions—apparently some of the late +Shah's acquaintances during his European tours. +Here are also stuffed owls, an automatic juggler, +an imitation snake, Japanese screens, and an +amusing painting by a Persian artist of Adam +and Eve in the Garden of Eden—the forbidden +fruit already missing.</p> + +<p>Previous to entering the largest room we come +to an ante-room with photographs of scenery and +events belonging to the Shah's tour to Europe.<a name="Pg_1-235" id="Pg_1-235"></a></p> + +<p>In the large gold room the whole set of furniture, +I am told, was presented to Nasr-ed-din +Shah by the Sultan of Turkey, and there are, +besides, six large oil-paintings hanging upon the +walls in gorgeous gold frames. They represent +the last two Shahs, the Emperor and Empress +of Russia, the Crown Prince at the time of the +presentation, and the Emperor of Austria. A +smaller picture of Victor Emmanuel also occupies +a prominent place, but here again we have another +instance of the little reverence in which our +beloved Queen Victoria was held in the eyes of +the Persian Court. Among the various honoured +foreign Emperors and Kings, to whom this room +is dedicated, Queen Victoria's only representation +is a small, bad photograph, skied in the least +attractive part of the room—a most evident +slight, when we find such photographs as that of +the Emperor William occupying a front and +honoured place, as does also the photograph of +Queen Wilhelmina of Holland with her mother. +Yet another palpable instance of this disregard +for the reigning head of England appears in a +series of painted heads of Sovereigns. The Shah, +of course, is represented the biggest of the lot, +and King Humbert, Emperor William, the Sultan +of Turkey and the Emperor of Austria, of about +equal sizes; whereas the Queen of England is +quite small and insignificant.</p> + +<p>The furniture in this room is covered with +the richest plush.</p> + +<p>We now come upon the royal picture gallery +(or, rather, gallery of painted canvases), a long,<a name="Pg_1-236" id="Pg_1-236"></a> +long room, where a most interesting display of +Persian, Afghan, Beluch and Turkish arms of all +kinds, ancient and modern, gold bows and arrows, +jewelled daggers, Damascus swords, are much +more attractive than the yards of portraits of +ladies who have dispensed altogether with +dressmakers' bills, and the gorgeously framed +advertisements of Brooks' Machine Cottons, and +other products, which are hung on the line in +the picture gallery! The pictures by Persian +art students—who paint in European style—are +rather quaint on account of the subjects chosen +when they attempt to be ideal. They run a +good deal to the fantastic, as in the case of the +several square yards of canvas entitled the "Result +of a dream." It contains quite a menagerie +of most suggestive wild animals, and dozens of +angels and demons in friendly intercourse playing +upon the surface of a lake and among the entangled +branches of trees. In the background +a pyrotechnic display of great magnitude is depicted, +with rockets shooting up in all directions, +while ethereal, large, black-eyed women lie gracefully +reclining and unconcerned, upon most unsafe +clouds. The result on the spectator of looking +at the "Result of a dream," and other similar +canvases by the same artist, is generally, I should +think, a nightmare.</p> + +<p>There are some good paintings by foreign +artists, such as the life-size nude with a dove by +Folagne, which we have already seen, most +faithfully and cleverly copied by a Persian artist, +in the Shah's dining-room. Then there are some<a name="Pg_1-237" id="Pg_1-237"></a> +pretty Dutch and Italian pictures, but nothing +really first-rate in a purely artistic sense.</p> + +<p>The cases of ancient and rare gold and silver +coins are, however, indeed worthy of remark, +and so are the really beautiful Persian, Afghan +and Turkish gold and silver inlaid shields, and +the intensely picturesque and finely ornamented +matchlocks and flintlocks. Here, too, as in +China, we find an abnormally large rifle—something +like the <i>gingal</i> of the Celestials. These +long clumsy rifles possess an ingenious back sight, +with tiny perforations at different heights of the +sight for the various distances on exactly the +principle of a Lyman back sight.</p> + +<p>The Persians who accompanied me through +the Palace seemed very much astonished—almost +concerned—at my taking so much interest in +these weapons—which they said were only very +old and obsolete—and so little in the hideous +things which they valued and wanted me to +admire. They were most anxious that I should +stop before a box of pearls, a lot of them, all of +good size but not very regular in shape. Anything +worth big sums of money is ever much +more attractive to Persians (also, one might add, +to most Europeans) than are objects really artistic +or even pleasing to the eye.</p> + +<p>Next to the pearls, came dilapidated butterflies +and shells and fossils and stuffed lizards and +crocodiles and elephants' tusks, and I do not +know what else, so that by the time one came +out, after passing through the confusion that +reigned everywhere, one's brain was so worn and<a name="Pg_1-238" id="Pg_1-238"></a> +jumpy that one was glad to sit and rest in the +lovely garden and sip cup after cup of tea, +which the Palace servants had been good enough +to prepare.</p> + +<p>But there was one more thing that I was +dragged to see before departing—a modern +printing-press complete. His Majesty, when +the fancy takes him, has books translated and +specially printed for his own use. With a sigh +of relief I was glad to learn that I had now +seen everything, quite everything, in the Shah's +Palace!</p> + +<p>The Shah has several country seats with +beautiful gardens on the hills to the north of +Teheran, where he spends most of the summer +months, and in these residences, too, we find the +rooms mostly decorated with mirrors, and differing +very little in character from those in the +Teheran Palace, only not quite so elaborate. +European influence has frequently crept in in +architectural details and interior decorations, but +not always advantageously.</p> + +<p>The Andarun or harem, the women's quarter, +is generally less gaudy than the other buildings, +the separate little apartments belonging to each +lady being, in fact, quite modest and not always +particularly clean. There is very little furniture +in the bedrooms, Persian women having comparatively +few requirements. There is in addition +a large reception room, furnished in European +style, with elaborate coloured glass windows. +This room is used when the Shah visits the +ladies, or when they entertain friends, but there<a name="Pg_1-239" id="Pg_1-239"></a> +is nothing, it may be noted, to impress one with +the idea that these are regal residences or with +that truly oriental, gorgeous pomp, popularly associated +in Europe with the Shah's court. There +is probably no court of any importance where the +style of life is simpler and more modest than at +the Shah's. All the houses are, nevertheless, +most comfortable, and the gardens—the principal +feature of all these country places—extremely +handsome, with many fountains, tanks, and water +channels intersecting them in every direction +for the purpose of stimulating the artificially +reared vegetation, and also of rendering the +places cooler in summer.</p> + +<p>Unlike most natives of the Asiatic continent, +the Persian shows no reluctance in accepting +foreign ways and inventions. He may lack the +means to indulge in foreign luxuries, but that is +a different matter altogether; the inclination to +reform and adopt European ways is there all the +same.</p> + +<p>More forward in this line than most other +Persians is the Shah's son, a very intelligent, +bright young fellow, extremely plucky and +charmingly simple-minded. He takes the +keenest interest in the latest inventions and fads, +and, like his father the Shah, fell a victim to the +motor car mania. Only, the Shah entrusts his +life to the hands of an expert French driver, +whereas the young Prince finds it more amusing +to drive the machine himself. This, of course, +he can only do within the Palace grounds, since +to do so in the streets of the town would be<a name="Pg_1-240" id="Pg_1-240"></a> +considered below his dignity and would shock +the people.</p> + +<p>At the country residences he is said to have a +good deal of amusement out of his motor, but +not so the Shah's Ministers and friends who are +now terrified at the name "motor." The +young Prince, it appears, on the machine being +delivered from Europe insisted—without previous +knowledge of how to steer it—on driving it +round a large water tank. He invited several +stout Ministers in all their finery to accompany +him, which they did with beaming faces, overcome +by the honour. The machine started full +speed ahead in a somewhat snake-like fashion, +and with great destruction of the minor plants on +the way; then came a moment of fearful apprehension +on the part of spectators and performers +alike. The car collided violently with an old +tree; some of the high dignitaries were flung +into the water, others though still on dry land +lay flat on their backs.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-26.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-26_th.jpg" alt="The Shah and his Suite." title="The Shah and his Suite." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Shah and his Suite.</p> +<p class="figcenter">Prime Minister. General Kossakowski.</p> + +<p>It speaks volumes for the young Prince's +pluck that, when the car was patched up, he +insisted on driving it again; but the number of +excuses and sudden complaints that have since +prevailed among his father's friends when asked +to go for a drive with the Prince are said to +be quite unprecedented.</p> + +<p>The Prince is a great sportsman and much +beloved by all for his frankness and geniality.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-241" id="Pg_1-241"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The selection of a servant—A Persian <i>diligence</i>—Shah-Abdul-Azim +mosque—Rock carving—The round tower—Beggars—The +<i>Kerjawa</i>—Hasanabad—Run-away horses—Misplaced +affection—Characteristics of the country—Azizawad—Salt +lake of Daria-i-Nimak—Aliabad—Sunsets.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">I had</span> much difficulty in obtaining a really +first-class servant, although many applied with +glowing certificates. It has always been my +experience that the more glowing the certificates +the worse the servant. For my particular kind +of travelling, too, a special type of servant +has to be got, with a constitution somewhat +above the average. I generally cover very great +distances at a high speed without the least +inconvenience to myself, but I find that those +who accompany me nearly always break down.</p> + +<p>After inspecting a number of applicants I +fixed upon one man whose features showed +firmness of character and unusual determination. +He was a man of few words—one of the rarest +and best qualities in a travelling servant, and—he +had no relations dependent upon him—the +next best quality. He could shoot straight, he +could stick on a saddle, he could walk. He<a name="Pg_1-242" id="Pg_1-242"></a> +required little sleep. He was willing to go to +any country where I chose to take him. He +required a high salary, but promised by all he +held most sacred that he would die before he +would give me the slightest trouble. This +seemed all fair, and I employed him.</p> + +<p>Only one drawback did this man have—he +was an excellent European cook. I had to +modify him into a good plain cook, and then he +became perfection itself. His name was Sadek.</p> + +<p>On October 2nd I was ready to start south. +My foot was still in a bad condition, but I +thought that the open air cure would be the +best instead of lying in stuffy rooms. Riding +is my favourite way of progression, but again it +was necessary to submit to another extortion +and travel by carriage as far as Kum on a road +made by the Bank of Persia some few years ago. +The speculation was not carried on sufficiently +long to become a success, and the road was +eventually sold to a Persian concern. The same +company runs a service of carriages with relays +of horses between the two places, and if one +wishes to travel fast one is compelled to hire a +carriage, the horses not being let out on hire for +riding purposes at any of the stations.</p> + +<p>This time I hired a large diligence—the only +vehicle in the stables that seemed strong enough +to stand the journey. It was painted bright +yellow outside, had no windows, and was very +properly divided into two compartments, one +for men and one for women. The money for +the journey had to be paid in advance, and the<a name="Pg_1-243" id="Pg_1-243"></a> +vehicle was ordered to be at the door of the +hotel on Friday, October 4th, at 5.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></p> + +<p>It arrived on Sunday evening, October 6th, +at 6.30 o'clock. So much for Persian punctuality. +Sadek said I was lucky that it did come +so soon; sometimes the carriages ordered come +a week later than the appointed time; occasionally +they do not come at all!</p> + +<p>Sadek, much to his disgust, was made to +occupy the ladies' compartment with all the +luggage, and I had the men's. We were off, +and left the city just in time before the South +Gate was closed. There were high hills to the +south-east, much broken and rugged, and to the +north beyond the town the higher ones above +Golahek, on which snow caps could be perceived. +Damovend (18,600 ft.), the highest and most +graceful mountain in Persia, stood with its white +summit against the sky to the north-east.</p> + +<p>Even two hundred yards away from the city +gate there was nothing to tell us that we had +come out of the capital of Persia—the place +looks so insignificant from every side. A green-tiled +dome of no impressive proportions, a +minaret or two, and a few mud walls—that is +all one sees of the mass of houses one leaves +behind.</p> + +<p>Barren country and dusty road, a graveyard +with its prism-shaped graves half-buried in sand, +are the attractions of the road. One comes to +an avenue of trees. Poor trees! How baked +and dried and smothered in dust! A couple of +miles off, we reached a patch of verdure and<a name="Pg_1-244" id="Pg_1-244"></a> +some really green trees and even signs of +agriculture. To our left (east) lay the narrow-gauge +railway line—the only one in Persia—leading +to the Shah-Abdul Azim mosque. The +whole length of the railway is not more than six +miles.</p> + +<p>To the right of the road, some little distance +before reaching the mosque, a very quaint, large +high-relief has been sculptured on the face of +a huge rock and is reflected upside down in a +pond of water at its foot. Men were bathing here +in long red or blue drawers, and hundreds of +donkeys were conveying veiled women to this +spot. An enormous tree casts its shadow over +the pool of water in the forenoon.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-27.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-27_th.jpg" alt="Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim." title="Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-28.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-28_th.jpg" alt="Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum." title="Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum.</p> + +<p>It is interesting to climb up to the high-relief +to examine the figures more closely. The whole +sculpture is divided into three sections separated +by columns, the central section being as large as +the two side ones taken together. In the centre +is Fath-ali-shah—legless apparently—but supposed +to be seated on a throne. He wears a +high cap with three aigrettes, and his moustache +and beard are of abnormal length. In his belt at +the pinched waist he disports a sword and dagger, +while he holds a bâton in his hand. There are +nine figures to his right in two rows: the Naib +Sultaneh, Hussein Ali, Taghi Mirza, above; +below, Mahommed, Ali Mirza, Fatali Mirza, +Abdullah Mirza, Bachme Mirza, one figure +unidentified. To the Shah's left the figures of +Ali-naghi Mirza and Veri Mirza are in the +lower row; Malek Mirza, the last figure to the<a name="Pg_1-245" id="Pg_1-245"></a> +left, Hedar Mirza and Moh-Allah-Mirza next +to Fath-Ali-Shah. All the figures are long-bearded +and garbed in long gowns, with swords +and daggers. On Fath-Ali-Shah's right hand is +perched a hawk, and behind his throne stands an +attendant with a sunshade, while under the seat +are little figures of Muchul Mirza and Kameran +Mirza. There are inscriptions on the three +sides of the frame, but not on the base. A seat +is carved in the rock by the side of the sculpture.</p> + +<p>A few hundred yards from this well-preserved +rock carving, a round tower 90 or 100 feet in +height has been erected. Its diameter inside is +about 40 feet and the thickness of the wall about +20 feet. It has two large yellow doors. Why +this purposeless structure was put up, nobody +seems to know for certain. One gets a beautiful +view from the top of the wall—Teheran in the +distance on one side; the Shah-Abdul-Azim +mosque on the other. Mountains are close by +to the east, and a patch of cultivation and a +garden all round down below. Near the +mosque—as is the case with all pilgrimage +places in Persia—we find a bazaar crammed +with beggars, black bag-like women riding +astride on donkeys or mules, depraved-looking +men, and stolid-looking Mullahs. There were +old men, blind men, lame men, deaf men, +armless men, men with enormous tumours, others +minus the nose or lower jaw—the result of +cancer. Millions of flies were buzzing about.</p> + +<p>One of the most ghastly deformities I have +ever seen was a tumour under a Mullah's foot.<a name="Pg_1-246" id="Pg_1-246"></a> +It was an almost spherical tumour, some three +inches in diameter, with skin drawn tight and +shining over its surface. It had patches of red +on the otherwise whitish-yellow skin, and gave +the impression of the man resting his foot on an +unripe water-melon with the toes half dug into +the tumour.</p> + +<p>Non-Mussulmans are, of course, forbidden to +enter the mosque, so I had to be content with +the outside view of it—nothing very grand—and +must take my reader again along the flat, +uninteresting country towards Kum.</p> + +<p>The usual troubles of semi-civilised Persia are +not lacking even at the very first stage. There +are no relays of horses, and those just unharnessed +are too tired to proceed. They are +very hungry, too, and there is nothing for them +to eat. Several hours are wasted, and Sadek +employs them in cooking my dinner and also in +giving exhibitions of his temper to the stable +people. Then follow endless discussions at the +top of their voices, in which I do not take part, +for I am old and wise enough not to discuss +anything with anybody.</p> + +<p>The prospects of a backshish, the entreaties +and prayers being of no avail, Sadek flies into a +fury, rushes to the yard, seizes the horses and +harness, gives the coachman a hammering (and +the post master very nearly another), and so we +are able to start peacefully again at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, +and leave Chah-herizek behind.</p> + +<p>But the horses are tired and hungry. They +drag and stumble along in a most tiresome<a name="Pg_1-247" id="Pg_1-247"></a> +manner. There is moonlight, that ought to add +poetry to the scenery—but in Persia there is no +poetry about anything. There are a great many +caravans on the road—they all travel at night to +save the animals from the great heat of the day—long +strings of camels with their monotonous +bells, and dozens of donkeys or mules, some with +the covered double litters—the <i>kerjawa</i>. These +<i>kerjawas</i> are comfortable enough for people not +accustomed to ride, or for women who can sleep +comfortably while in motion inside the small +panier. The <i>kerjawa</i> is slung over the saddle +like two large hampers with a roof of bent bands +of wood. A cloth covering is made to turn +the <i>kerjawa</i> into a small private room, an exact +duplicate of which is slung on the opposite side +of the saddle. Two persons balancing each other +are required by this double arrangement, or one +person on one side and an equivalent quantity of +luggage on the other so as to establish a +complete balance—a most important point to +consider if serious accidents are to be avoided.</p> + +<p>Every now and then the sleepy voice of a +caravan man calls out "Salameleko" to my +coachman, and "Salameleko" is duly answered +back; otherwise we rattle along at the speed of +about four miles an hour, bumping terribly on +the uneven road, and the diligence creaking in a +most perplexing manner.</p> + +<p>At Hasanabad, the second stage, I was more +fortunate and got four good horses in exchange +for the tired ones. One of them was very fresh +and positively refused to go with the others.<a name="Pg_1-248" id="Pg_1-248"></a> +The driver, who was brutal, used his stock-whip +very freely, with the result that the horse +smashed part of the harness and bolted. The +other three, of course, did the same, and the +coachman was not able to hold them. We +travelled some few hundred yards off the road at +a considerable speed and with terrible bumping, +the shaky, patched-up carriage gradually beginning +to crumble to pieces. The boards of the +front part fell apart, owing to the violent +oscillations of the roof, and the roof itself +showed evident signs of an approaching collapse. +We were going down a steep incline, and I +cannot say that I felt particularly happy until +the horses were got under control again. I +feared that all my photographic plates and +cameras might get damaged if the diligence +turned over.</p> + +<p>While the men mended the harness I had a +look at the scenery. The formation of the +country was curious. There were what at first +appeared to be hundreds of small mounds like +ant-hills—round topped and greyish, or in +patches of light brown, with yellow sand +deposits exposed to the air on the surface. On +getting nearer they appeared to be long flat-topped +ridges evidently formed by water-borne +matter—probably at the epoch when this was +the sea or lake bottom.</p> + +<p>"<i>Khup es!</i>" (It is all right!) said the coachman, +inviting me to mount again—and in a +sudden outburst of exuberant affection he +embraced the naughty horse and kissed him<a name="Pg_1-249" id="Pg_1-249"></a> +fondly on the nose. The animal reciprocated +the coachman's compliment by promptly kicking +the front splashboard of the carriage to +smithereens.</p> + +<p>We crossed a bridge. To the east the water-level +mark, made when this valley was under +water, is plainly visible on the strata of gravel +with reddish mud above, of which the hills are +formed.</p> + +<p>Then, rising gradually, the diligence goes +over a low pass and along a flat plateau separating +the first basin we have left behind from a +second, more extensive, of similar formation. +The hills in this second basin appear lower. +To the S.S.E. is a horseshoe-shaped sand dune, +much higher than anything we had so far +encountered, and beyond it a range of mountains. +Salt can be seen mixed with the pale-brownish +mud of the soil.</p> + +<p>Then we drive across a third basin, large and +flat, with the scattered hills getting lower and +seemingly worn by the action of weather. +They are not so corrugated by water-formed +channels as the previous ones we had passed. +Twenty feet or so below the summit of the +hills a white sediment of salt showed itself +plainly.</p> + +<p>The fourth basin is at a higher level than the +others—some 100 feet or so above the third—and +is absolutely flat, with dark, gravelly soil.</p> + +<p>Azizawad village has no special attraction +beyond the protecting wall that encloses it—like +all villages of Persia—and the domed roofs<a name="Pg_1-250" id="Pg_1-250"></a> +of houses to which one begins to get reconciled. +Next to it is the very handsome fruit +garden of Khale-es-Sultan.</p> + +<p>At Khale Mandelha the horses are changed. +The road becomes very undulating, with continuous +ups and downs, and occasional steep +ascents and descents. Glimpses of the large salt +lake, Daria-i-Nimak, or the Masileh, as it is also +called, are obtained, and eventually we had quite +a pretty view with high blue mountains in the +background and rocky black mounds between +the spectator and the silvery sheet of water.</p> + +<p>Aliabad has a large caravanserai with a red-columned +portico to the east; also a special +place for the Sadrazam, the Prime Minister, +when travelling on this road; a garden with +a few sickly trees, and that is all.</p> + +<p>On leaving the caravanserai one skirts the +mountain side to the west, and goes up it to the +horse station situated in a most desolate spot. +From this point one gets a bird's-eye view of +the whole lake. Its waters, owing to evaporation, +seem to withdraw, leaving a white sediment +of salt along the edge. The road from the +Khafe-khana runs now in a perfectly straight line +S.W., and, with the exception of the first short +incline, is afterwards quite flat, passing along and +very little above the lake shore, from which the +road is about one mile distant. The lake is to +the S.E. of the road at this point. To the +S.W., W., N.W., N., lies a long row of dark-brown +hills which circle round the valley we +are about to cross.<a name="Pg_1-251" id="Pg_1-251"></a></p> + +<p>The sunset on that particular night was one +in which an amateur painter would have revelled. +A dirty-brown foreground as flat as a billiard-table—a +sharp cutting edge of blue hill-tops +against a bilious lemon-yellow sky blending into +a ghastly cinabrese red, which gradually vanished +into a sort of lead blue. There are few +countries where the sun appears and disappears +above and from the earth's surface with less glow +than in Persia. Of course, the lack of moisture +in the atmosphere largely accounts for this. +During the several months I was in the country—though +for all I know this may have been +my misfortune only—I never saw more than +half a dozen sunsets that were really worth +intense admiration, and these were not in +Western Persia. The usual sunsets are effects +of a washed-out sort, with no force and no +beautiful contrasts of lights and colours such as +one sees in Egypt, in Morocco, in Spain, Italy, +or even, with some amount of toning down, in +our little England.</p> + +<p>The twilight in Persia is extremely short.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-252" id="Pg_1-252"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXIV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Severe wind—Kum, the holy city—Thousands of graves—Conservative +Mullahs—Ruin and decay—Leather tanning—The +gilt dome—Another extortion—Ingenious bellows—Damovend—The +scenery—Passangun—Evening prayers—A +contrivance for setting charcoal alight—Putrid water—Post +horses—Sin Sin—Mirage—Nassirabad—Villages near +Kashan.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> a deserted road, sleepy and shaken, with +the wind blowing so hard that it tore and carried +away all the cotton curtains of the carriage, I +arrived at Kum (3,200 feet above sea level) in +the middle of the night. The distance covered +between Teheran and Kum was twenty-four +farsakhs, or ninety-six miles.</p> + +<p>As we approached the holy city there +appeared to be a lot of vegetation around, and +Sadek and the coachman assured me that this +was a region where pomegranates were grown in +profusion, and the castor-oil plant, too. Cotton +was, moreover, cultivated with success.</p> + +<p>Kum is, to my mind, and apart from its +holiness, one of the few really picturesque cities +of Persia. I caught the first panoramic glimpse +of the shrine and mosque at sunrise from the +roof of the post house, and was much impressed<a name="Pg_1-253" id="Pg_1-253"></a> +by its grandeur. Amidst a mass of semi-spherical +mud roofs, and beyond long mud walls, +rise the gigantic gilded dome of the mosque, +two high minarets, and two shorter ones with +most beautifully coloured tiles inlaid upon their +walls, the general effect of which is of most +delicate greys, blues and greens. Then clusters +of fruit trees, numerous little minarets all over +the place, and ventilating shafts above the better +buildings break the monotony agreeably.</p> + +<p>Kum, I need hardly mention, is one of the +great pilgrimages of Mahommedans. Happy +dies the man or woman whose body will be laid +at rest near the sacred shrine, wherein—it is +said—lie the remains of Matsuma Fatima. +Corpses are conveyed here from all parts of the +country. Even kings and royal personages are +buried in the immediate neighbourhood of the +shrine. Round the city there are thousands of +mud graves, which give quite a mournful appearance +to the holy city. There are almost as +many dead people as living ones in Kum!</p> + +<p>Innumerable Mullahs are found here who are +very conservative, and who seem to resent the +presence of European visitors in the city. +Access to the shrine is absolutely forbidden to +foreigners.</p> + +<p>Immense sums of money are brought daily to +the holy city by credulous pilgrims, but no +outward signs of a prosperous trade nor of fine +streets or handsome private buildings can be +detected on inspecting the bazaar or streets of +the town. On the contrary, the greater part of<a name="Pg_1-254" id="Pg_1-254"></a> +the residences are in a hopeless state of decay, +and the majority of the inhabitants, to all +appearance, little above begging point.</p> + +<p>Leather, tanned with the bark of the pomegranate, +and cheap pottery are the chief industries +of the holy city. On inquiring what becomes +of all the wealth that comes into the town, a +Persian, with a significant gesture, informed me +that the Mullahs get it and with them it +remains.</p> + +<p>The handsome dome over the shrine was begun +by order of Hussein Nadir Shah, but the +gorgeous gilding of the copper plates was not +finished till a few years ago by Nasr-ed-din +Shah. A theological college also exists at this +place. There is a station here of the Indo-European +Telegraphs, with an Armenian in +charge of it.</p> + +<p>Much to my disgust, I was informed that the +owner of the post-house had the monopoly of +the traffic on the track for six or seven farsakhs +more, and so travellers were compelled to submit +to a further extortion by having to hire another +wheeled conveyance instead of being able to +ride. This time I chartered a victoria, and off +we went as usual at a gallop.</p> + +<p>Two horses had to be sent ahead while the +carriage was driven with only two animals +through the narrow streets of the bazaar, covered +over with awnings or with domed perforated +roofs. The place had a tawdry, miserable +appearance, the leather shops being the only +interesting ones, with the many elaborate saddles,<a name="Pg_1-255" id="Pg_1-255"></a> +harness, saddle-bags, and horses' ornamentations +displayed on nails along the walls.</p> + +<p>I saw in a blacksmith's shop an ingenious +device to create a perpetual draught with +bellows. The big bellows were double and +allowed sufficient room to let two boys stand +between the two. The boys clinging to handles +in the upper part of the bellows and using the +weight of their bodies now to the right, then to +the left, inflated first one then the other, the +wind of each bellow passing through a common +end tube and each being in turn refilled with +air while the other was blowing. This human +pendulum arrangement was carried on with +incredible rapidity by the two boys, who dashed +their bodies from one side to the other and +back, keeping steady time and holding their +feet stationary, but describing an almost complete +semicircle with the remainder of the +body, the whole length of the boy forming +the radius.</p> + +<p>There was a shop or two where glass was +being blown, and numerous fruit-shops with +mountains of pomegranates, water-melons and +grapes. At the entrance of the mosques crowds +of people stood waiting for admission, some +praying outside.</p> + +<p>Once out of the town the extra two horses, +which were waiting at the gate, were harnessed, +and as we sped along, the lungs rejoiced in the +pure air of which the stuffy, cellar-like bazaar +had afforded none.</p> + +<p>Behind, in the far distance, Damovend<a name="Pg_1-256" id="Pg_1-256"></a> +Mountain, covered with snow, could still be +seen rising high above everything. It was undoubtedly +a good-looking mountain. To the +south-west and west lay indented hills of the +most curious shapes and colours—one, particularly, +like a roof, with a greenish base surmounted +by a raw-sienna top; a twin-sister hill +further west presented the same peculiarities. +In the distant mountains to the west the same +characteristics were apparent, the greenish +stratum below extending all along and increasing +in depth towards the south.</p> + +<p>The road—if one may call it so—was +extremely bad and hardly fit for wheeled traffic. +After leaving Kum the vegetation ceased, and +it was only at Langherut village that a patch of +green refreshed the eye.</p> + +<p>A few strolling wayfarers crowded round +when the carriage stopped to give the horses a +rest under the shade of a tree, and Sadek was +cross-examined about the Sahib whom he was +accompanying. It was quite amusing to hear +one's self and one's doings commented upon in +the most open manner, regardless of one's +personal feelings, which are better discarded +altogether while travelling in Persia. There is +absolutely nothing private in the land of Iran. +One's appearance, one's clothes, the quantity of +food one eats, the amount of money one carries, +where one comes from and where one goes, +whom one knows, one's servants, one's rifles, +one's cameras,—everything is remarked upon, +as if one were not present. If one possesses no<a name="Pg_1-257" id="Pg_1-257"></a> +false pride and a sense of humour, a deal of +entertainment is thus provided on the road.</p> + +<p>Passangun could be perceived in the distance, +and a dreary, desolate place it was when one +got there. In the way of architecture, we found +a large tumbling-down caravanserai, a tea-shop, +and the Chappar Khana (the post-house). As +to vegetation, thirteen sickly trees, all counted. +Barren, uninteresting country surrounded the +halting place.</p> + +<p>I spent here a pleasant hour while waiting for +my luggage to arrive on pack animals. A +caravan of some fifty horses and mules had +halted at sunset, and a number of pilgrims, with +beards dyed bright-red, were making their +evening salaams towards Mecca. Having +removed shoes and duly washed their feet and +hands, they stood erect on the projecting +platform of the caravanserai, and after considerable +adjusting of caps and head-scratching, +assumed a meditative attitude, head bent forward, +and muttered prayers with hands down. Then +the hands were raised flat before the face, with +a bow. Kneeling followed, with hands first +resting on the knees, then raised again to cover +the face, after which, with the palms of the +hands resting flat on the ground, the head was +brought down until it touched the ground too. +A standing position was further assumed, when +the temples were touched with the thumb while +prayers were recited, and then the petitioners +stooped low and fell a second time on their knees, +saying the beads of their rosaries. The forehead<a name="Pg_1-258" id="Pg_1-258"></a> +was made to touch the ground several times +before the evening prayers were over.</p> + +<p>Next, food was cooked in the small fire places +of the caravanserai, and tea brewed in large quantities. +The inevitable kalian was called for, and +the caravanserai boy brought out his interesting +little arrangement to set charcoal quickly alight +for the large cup of the kalian. To a string +three feet long, hung a small perforated iron cup, +which he filled with charcoal, one tiny bit being +already alight. By quickly revolving the contrivance +as one would a sling, the draught forced +through the apertures in the cup produced quick +combustion, and charcoal was at once distributed +alight among the kalians of the impatient guests.</p> + +<p>Much amusement and excitement was caused +among the pilgrims by a fight between a puppy-dog +and five or six small goats. Only one of +these at a time fought the dog, while the others +occupied a high point of vantage on which they +had hastily climbed, and from that place of +security displayed a keen interest in the fight.</p> + +<p>The water at Passangun was extremely bad. +There were two tanks of rain water drained from +the hillside along a dirty channel filled with +animal refuse. The wells were below the ground +level, and were walled and domed over to +prevent too rapid an evaporation by the sun's +rays. The water was pestilential. It had a +nasty green look about it, and patches of putrid +matter decomposing visibly on its surface. The +stench from it when stirred was sickening. Yet +the natives drank it and found it all right!<a name="Pg_1-259" id="Pg_1-259"></a> +There is no accounting for people's taste, not +even in Persia.</p> + +<p>At last, from this point, the positive torture of +driving in carriages was over, and <i>Chappar</i> horses +were to be obtained. The saddles were got +ready, and with five horses we made a start that +same evening for Sin Sin. After the wretched +bumping and thumping and being thrown about +in the wheeled conveyance on the badly-kept +road, it seemed heavenly to be ambling along at +a fairly good pace, even on these poor, half-starved +animals, which could not in all honesty +be considered to afford perfect riding. Indeed, +if there ever was a society for the prevention of +cruelty to animals, it should have begun its work +along the Persian postal roads. The poor brutes—one +can hardly call them horses—are bony +and starved, with sore backs, chests and legs, +with a bleeding tongue almost cut in two and +pitifully swollen by cruelly-shaped bits, and endowed +with stinking digestive organs and other +nauseous odours of uncared-for sores heated by +the friction of never-removed, clumsy, heavy +pads under the saddles. It requires a pretty +strong stomach, I can tell you, to ride them at +all. Yet the poor devils canter along, when they +do not amble, and occasionally gallop clumsily +on their unsteady, skeleton-like legs. So that, +notwithstanding everything, one generally manages +to go at the rate of six or seven miles an +hour.</p> + +<p>If the horses at the various post-stations have +just returned from conveying the post-bags, an<a name="Pg_1-260" id="Pg_1-260"></a> +extra sorry time is in store for the traveller. +The poor animals are then so tired that they +occasionally collapse on the road. I invariably +used all the kindness I could to these wretches, +but it was necessary for me to get on, as I +intended to proceed in the greatest haste over +the better known parts of Persia.</p> + +<p>It is important to see the horses fed before +starting from all the post-houses, but on many +occasions no food whatever could be procured +for them, when, of course, they had to go +without it.</p> + +<p>Changing horses about every 20 to 28 miles, +and being on the saddle from fourteen to twenty +hours out of the twenty-four, I was able to cover +long distances, and kept up an average of from +80 to 120 miles daily. One can, of course, +cover much greater distances than these in one +day, if one is fortunate enough to get good and +fresh horses at the various stations, and if one +does not have to keep it up for a long period of +time as I had to do.</p> + +<p>From Sin Sin we go due south along a flat +trail of salt and mud. We have a barrier +of mountains to the south-west and higher +mountains to the south. To the south-east also +a low ridge with another higher behind it. To +the north we leave behind low hills.</p> + +<p>Sin Sin itself is renowned for its water-melons, +and I, too, can humbly certify to their excellence. +I took a load of them away for the journey.</p> + +<p>From here we began to see the wonderful +effects of deceitful mirage, extremely common<a name="Pg_1-261" id="Pg_1-261"></a> +all over Persia. One sees beautiful lakes of +silvery water, with clusters of trees and islands +and rocks duly reflected upside down in their +steady waters, but it is all an optical deception, +caused by the action of the heated soil on the +expanding air immediately in contact with it, +which, seen from above and at a distance, is of a +bluish white tint with exactly the appearance +and the mirror-like qualities of still water.</p> + +<p>Although in Central Persia one sees many of +these effects every day, they are sometimes so +marvellous that even the most experienced +would be deceived.</p> + +<p>The country is barren and desolate. Kasimabad +has but two buildings, both caravanserais; +but Nassirabad, further on, is quite a large +village, with domed roofs and a couple of +minarets. On the road is a large caravanserai, +with the usual alcoves all round its massive +walls. Except the nice avenue of trees along a +refreshing brook of limpid water, there was +nothing to detain us here but the collision +between one of my pack-horses and a mule of a +passing caravan, with disastrous results to both +animals' loads. But, with the assistance of one +or two natives commandeered by Sadek, the +luggage scattered upon the road was replaced +high on the saddles, the fastening ropes were +pulled tight by Sadek with his teeth and hands, +while I took this opportunity to sit on the roadside +to partake of my lunch—four boiled eggs, a +cold roast chicken, Persian bread, some cake, +and half a water-melon, the whole washed down<a name="Pg_1-262" id="Pg_1-262"></a> +with a long drink of clear water. Riding at the +rate I did, the whole day and the greater part of +the night, in the hot sun and the cold winds at +night, gave one a healthy appetite.</p> + +<p>As we got nearer Kashan city, the villages got +more numerous; Aliabad and the Yaze (mosque) +and Nushabad to my left (east), with its blue tiled +roof of the mosque. But the villages were so +very much alike and uninteresting in colour and +in architecture, that a description of each would +be unimportant and most tedious, so that I will +only limit myself to describing the more typical +and striking ones with special features that may +interest the reader.</p> + +<p>In the morning of October 9th I had reached +the city of Kashan, seventeen farsakhs (sixty-eight +miles) from Kum, and forty-one farsakhs +or 164 miles from Teheran, in two days and a +half including halts.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-263" id="Pg_1-263"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Kashan—Silk manufactories—Indo-European Telegraph—The +Zein-ed-din tower—The Meh-rab shrine—The +Madrassah Shah—The Panja Shah—The hand of Nazareth +Abbas—The Fin Palace—Hot springs—The tragic end of +an honest Prime Minister—Ice store-houses—Cultivation—In +the bazaar—Brass work—Silk—The Mullahs and +places of worship—Wretched post-horses—The Gyabrabad +caravanserai—An imposing dam—Fruit-tree groves—Picturesque +Kohrut village.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Kashan</span>, 3,260 feet above sea level, is famous +for its gigantic and poisonous scorpions, for its +unbearable heat, its capital silk works, and its +copper utensils, which, if not always ornamental, +are proclaimed everlasting. The silk manufactories +are said to number over three hundred, +including some that make silk carpets, of world-wide +renown. The population is 75,000 souls or +thereabouts. Nothing is ever certain in Persia. +There are no hotels in the city, and it is considered +undignified for Europeans to go to a caravanserai—of +which there are some three dozen in +Kashan—or to the Chappar Khana.</p> + +<p>The Indo-European Telegraphs have a large +two-storied building outside the north gate of +the city, in charge of an Armenian clerk, where,<a name="Pg_1-264" id="Pg_1-264"></a> +through the courtesy of the Director of Telegraphs, +travellers are allowed to put up, and +where the guests' room is nice and clean, with a +useful bedstead, washstand, and a chair or two.</p> + +<p>A capital view of Kashan is obtained from the +roof of the Telegraph building. A wide road, +the one by which I had arrived, continues to the +north-east entrance of the bazaar. The town +itself is divided into two sections—the city +proper, surrounded by a high wall, and the +suburbs outside. To the south-west, in the town +proper, rises the slender tower of Zein-ed-din, +slightly over 100 feet high, and not unlike a +factory chimney. Further away in the distance—outside +the city—the mosque of Taj-ed-din +with its blue pointed roof, adjoins the famous +Meh-rab shrine, from which all the most ancient +and beautiful tiles have been stolen or sold by +avid Mullahs for export to Europe.</p> + +<p>Then we see the two domes of the mosque +and theological college, the Madrassah Shah, +where young future Mullahs are educated. To +the west of the observer from our high point of +vantage, and north-west of the town, lies another +mosque, the Panja Shah, in which the hand of +one of the prophets, Nazareth Abbas, is buried. +A life-size hand and portion of the forearm, +most beautifully carved in marble, is shown to +devotees in a receptacle in the east wall of the +mosque. The actual grave in which the real +hand lies is covered with magnificent ancient +tiles.</p> + +<p>It is with a certain amount of sadness that<a name="Pg_1-265" id="Pg_1-265"></a> +one gazes on the old Fin Palace, up on the hills +some six miles to the west, and listens to the +pathetic and repellent tragedy which took place +within its garden walls.</p> + +<p>The square garden is surrounded by a high +wall, and has buildings on three sides. Marble +canals, fed by large marble tanks, in which run +streams of limpid water, intersect the garden in +the middle of a wide avenue of dark cypresses. +The garden was commenced by Shah Abbas. +The Palace, however, was built by Fath-Ali-Shah, +who also much improved the gardens and +made this a favourite residence during the hot +summer months.</p> + +<p>There is here a very hot natural spring of +sulphur water, and copper, which is said to +possess remarkable curative qualities, especially +for rheumatism and diseases of the blood. One +bath is provided for men and another for +women.</p> + +<p>The Palace, with its quaint pictures and +decorations is now in a state of abandonment +and semi-collapse. The tragic end (in 1863 or +1864, I could not clearly ascertain which) at +this place of Mirza-Taki Khan, then Prime +Minister of Persia—as honest and straightforward +a politician as Persia has ever possessed—adds +a peculiar gloom to the place.</p> + +<p>A man of humble birth, but of great genius, +Mirza-Taki Khan, rose to occupy, next to the +Shah, the highest political position in his +country, and attempted to place the Government +of Persia on a firm basis, and to eradicate<a name="Pg_1-266" id="Pg_1-266"></a> +intrigue and corruption. To this day his +popularity is proverbial among the lower classes, +by whom he is still revered and respected for his +uprightness. The Shah gave him his only sister +in marriage, but unhappily one fine day his +enemies gained the upper hand at Court. He +fell into disgrace, and was banished to Kashan to +the Fin Palace. Executioners were immediately +sent to murder him by order of the Shah. +Mirza-Taki Khan, when their arrival was +announced, understood that his end had come. +He asked leave to commit suicide instead, which +he did by having the arteries of his arms cut +open. He bled to death while in his bath.</p> + +<p>Royal regret at the irreparable loss was +expressed, but it was too late. The body of the +cleverest statesman Persia had produced was +conveyed for burial to the Sanctuary of Karbala.</p> + +<p>One cannot help being struck, in a stifling +hot place like Kashan, to find large ice store-houses. +Yet plenty of ice is to be got here +during the winter, especially from the mountains +close at hand. These ice-houses have a pit dug +in the ground to a considerable depth, and are +covered over with a high conical roof of mud. +To the north-east, outside the city, in the +suburbs a great many of these ice store-houses +are to be seen, as well as a small, blue-tiled roof +of a mosque, the pilgrimage of Habbib-Mussah.</p> + +<p>There is some cultivation round about Kashan, +principally of cotton, tobacco, melons and water-melons, +which one sees in large patches <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'whereever'">wherever</ins> +there is water obtainable.<a name="Pg_1-267" id="Pg_1-267"></a></p> + +<p>Kashan is protected by mountains to the +south and west, and by low hills to the north-west, +but to the north and north-east the eye +roams uninterrupted over an open, flat, dusty, +dreary plain of a light brown colour until it +meets the sky line on the horizon, softly dimmed +by a thick veil of disturbed sand. Due east lie +the Siah Kuh (mountains), then comes another +gap in the horizon to the south-east.</p> + +<p>In the dark and gloomy bazaar the din of +hundreds of wooden hammers on as many +pieces of copper being made into jugs, trays, pots +or pans, is simply deafening, echoed as it is +under the vaulted roofs, the sound waves clashing +in such an unmusical and confused way as to be +absolutely diabolical. A few of these copper +vessels are gracefully ornamented and inlaid, but +the majority are coarse in their manufacture. +They are exported all over the country. The +manufactured silk, the other important product +of Kashan, finds its way principally to Russia.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants are most industrious and, +like all industrious people, are extremely docile, +amenable to reason, and easy to manage. The +Mullahs are said to have much power over the +population, and, in fact, we find in Kashan no +less than 18 mosques with five times that +number of shrines, counting large and small.</p> + +<p>I experienced some difficulty in obtaining +relays of fresh post horses, the mail having been +despatched both north and south the previous +night, and therefore no horses were in the +station. At seven in the evening I was informed<a name="Pg_1-268" id="Pg_1-268"></a> +that five horses had returned and were at my +disposal. Twenty minutes later the loads were +on their saddles, and I was on the road again.</p> + +<p>After travelling under the pitch-dark vaulted +bazaars (where, as it was impossible to see where +one was going, the horses had to be led), and +threading our way out of the suburbs, we +travelled on the flat for some time before coming +to the hilly portion of the road where it winds +its way up at quite a perceptible gradient. We +had no end of small accidents and trouble. The +horses were half-dead with fatigue. They had +gone 48 miles already with the post, and without +rest or food had been sent on with me for 28 +more miles! The poor wretches collapsed +time after time on the road under their loads, +although these were very light, and my servant +and I and the chappar boy had to walk the +whole way and drag the animals behind us, for +they had not sufficient strength to carry us. +Even then their knees gave way every now and +then, and it was no easy job to get them to +stand up again. One of them never did. He +died, and, naturally, we had to abandon him.</p> + +<p>It came on to blow very hard, and with the +horses collapsing on all sides and the loads +getting constantly undone owing to the repeated +falls of the animals, we could not cover more +than one mile, or two, an hour. Caravans +generally take the road over these mountains +during the day, so that now the road was quite +deserted and we could get no assistance from +any one. The loss of one horse increased our<a name="Pg_1-269" id="Pg_1-269"></a> +difficulty, as it involved putting more weight on +the other horses.</p> + +<p>At 3.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we managed to reach the caravanserai +in the mountains at Gyabrabat (Gabarabat), +the sight of which was enough to settle all +the horses. They one and all threw themselves +down on reaching the door, and it was not +possible to make them stand again. To continue +the journey to Kohrut (Kohrud) through the +night, as I had intended, was absolutely out of +the question, so we roused the keeper of the +hostelry and demanded admission.</p> + +<p>The man was extremely uncivil, as he said he +had some grievance against a previous English +traveller, but on being assured that I would pay +with my own hands for all I got and not through +servants—a rule which I always follow, and +which saves much unpleasantness and unfair +criticism from the natives—he provided me with +all I required. First of all I fed the horses. +Then Sadek cooked me a capital supper. Then +I gave the horses and myself some four hours +rest—that refreshed us all very much.</p> + +<p>The caravanserai was filthy. All the small +rooms and alcoves were occupied, and I preferred +to sleep out in the yard, sheltered from the +wind behind the huge doorway. I had with me +some boxes of my own invention and manufacture, +which had accompanied me on several +previous journeys, and which, besides a number +of other purposes, can serve as a bedstead. +They came in very usefully on that particular +occasion.<a name="Pg_1-270" id="Pg_1-270"></a></p> + +<p>From Gyabrabad to Kohrut the region is +supposed to be a famous haunt of robbers. +Undoubtedly the country lends itself to that +kind of enterprise, being mountainous and much +broken up, so that the occupation can be carried +on with practical impunity. The road is +among rocks and boulders. Although there are +no very great elevations in the mountains on +either side, the scenery is picturesque, with black-looking +rocky slopes, at the bottom of which a +tiny and beautifully limpid stream descends +towards Kashan. The track is mostly along this +stream.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-29.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-29_th.jpg" alt="The Track along the Kohrut Dam." title="The Track along the Kohrut Dam." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Track along the Kohrut Dam.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-30.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-30_th.jpg" alt="Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut." title="Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut.</p> + +<p>After a steep, stony incline of some length, +half-way between Gyabrabad and the Kohrut +pass, one comes across a high and well-made +dam, the work of a speculator. In winter and +during the rains the water of the stream is shut +up here into a large reservoir, a high wall being +built across the two mountain slopes, and +forming a large lake. The water is then sold to +the city of Kashan. If in due course of time +the purchase-money is not forthcoming, the +supply is cut off altogether by blocking up the +small aperture in the dam—which lets out the +tiny stream the course of which we have been +following upwards.</p> + +<p>The Persian post-horse is a most wonderful +animal. His endurance and powers of recovery +are simply extraordinary. Having been properly +fed, and enjoyed the few hours' rest, the animals, +notwithstanding their wretched condition and +the bad road, went fairly well.<a name="Pg_1-271" id="Pg_1-271"></a></p> + +<p>On nearing Kohrut one is agreeably surprised +to find among these barren mountains healthy +patches of agriculture and beautiful groves of +fruit-trees. The fruit is excellent here,—apples, +plums, apricots, walnuts, and the Kohrut potatoes +are said (by the people of Kohrut) to be the best +in the world. The most remarkable thing about +these patches of cultivation is that the soil in +which they occur has been brought there—the +mountain itself being rocky—and the imported +earth is supported by means of strong stone walls +forming long terraces. This speaks very highly +for the industry of the natives, who are extremely +hardworking. We go through these +delightful groves for nearly one mile, when +suddenly we find ourselves in front of Kohrut +village, most picturesquely perched on the steep +slope of the mountain.</p> + +<p>The houses are of an absolutely different +type from the characteristically domed Persian +hovels one has so far come across. They have +several storeys, two or even three—an extremely +rare occurrence in Persian habitations. The +lower windows are very small, like slits in the +wall, but the top windows are large and square, +usually with some lattice woodwork in front of +them. The domed roofs have been discarded, +owing to the quantity of wood obtainable here, +and the roofs are flat and thatched, supported on +long projecting beams and rafters. Just before +entering the village a great number of ancient +graves can be seen dotted on the mountain-side, +and along the road. The view of the place,<a name="Pg_1-272" id="Pg_1-272"></a> +with its beautiful background of weird mountains, +and the positions of the houses, the door +of one on the level with the roof of the underlying +one, against the face of the rock, are +most striking.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-31.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-31_th.jpg" alt="The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut." title="The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of this village are quite polite +and friendly, and lack the usual aggressiveness so +common at all the halting places in Persia.</p> + +<p>Fresh horses were obtained at the Chappar +Khana, and I proceeded on my journey at once. +We still wound our way among mountains going +higher and higher, until we got over the Kuh-i-buhlan +(the pass). From the highest point a +lovely view of the valley over which we had +come from the north-west displayed itself in +dark brown tints, and to the east we had a +mass of barren mountains.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-273" id="Pg_1-273"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXVI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Crossing the Pass—Held up by robbers—Amusing courtesy—Brigands +to protect from brigands—Parting friends—Soh—Biddeshk—Copper +and iron—Robber tribes—An Englishman +robbed—A feature of Persian mountains—A military +escort—How compensation is paid by the Persian Government—Murchikhar—Robbers +and the guards—Ghiez—Distances +from Teheran to Isfahan.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was not till after sunset that we crossed the +Pass, and, the horses being tired, my men and I +were walking down the incline on the other side +to give the animals a rest. It was getting quite +dark, and as the chappar boy had warned me +that there were brigands about the neighbourhood +I walked close to my horse, my revolver +being slung to the saddle. The place seemed +absolutely deserted, and I was just thinking how +still and reposeful the evening seemed, the noise +of the horses' hoofs being the only disturbing +element amid quiescent nature, when suddenly +from behind innocent-looking rocks and boulders +leapt up, on both sides of the road, about a dozen +well-armed robbers, who attempted to seize the +horses. Before they had time to put up their +rifles they found themselves covered by my revolver +and requested to drop their weapons or I<a name="Pg_1-274" id="Pg_1-274"></a> +would shoot them. They hastily complied with +my request, and instead of ransacking my baggage, +as they had evidently designed to do, had +to confine themselves to polite remarks.</p> + +<p>"You are very late on the road, sahib?" said +one brigand, in a voice of assumed kindness and +softness.</p> + +<p>"Please put back your revolver. We will not +harm you," said suavely and persuasively another, +who displayed a most gaudy waistcoat which he +evidently did not want perforated.</p> + +<p>Sadek was in a great state of excitement, and +entreated me not to shoot. "Persian robbers," +he assured me, with a logic of his own, "do not +kill the master until the servant has been killed, +because it is the servant who is in charge of the +luggage. . . . . They would not steal anything +now, but I must be kind to these fellows."</p> + +<p>As is usual with persons accustomed to stalk +other persons, I did not fail to notice that, while +trying to attract my attention by conversation, +my interlocutors were endeavouring to surround +us. But I checked them in this, and warned +them that I had met many brigands before, and +was well acquainted with their ways. I hoped +they would not compel me to shoot, which I +would most certainly do if they attempted any +tricks. They well understood that it was risky +to try their luck, so they changed tactics altogether. +The conversation that ensued was +amusing.</p> + +<p>"Sahib," shouted a boisterous robber, very +gaily attired, and with cartridges in profusion in<a name="Pg_1-275" id="Pg_1-275"></a> +his belt, "there are lots of brigands near here +and we want to protect you."</p> + +<p>"Yes, I know there are brigands not far from +here," I assented.</p> + +<p>"We will escort you, for you are our friend, +and if we lead you safely out of the mountains, +maybe, sahib, you will give us backshish."</p> + +<p>I felt certain that I could have no better protection +against brigands than the brigands themselves, +and preferred to have them under my +own supervision rather than give them a chance +of attacking us unexpectedly again some miles +further on. Anyhow, I resolved to let them +come as far as the next pass we had to cross, +from which point the country would be more +open and a sudden surprise impossible. So I +accepted their offer with a politely expressed +condition that every man must keep in front of +me and not raise his rifle above his waist or I +would send a bullet through him.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the night we parted on the +summit of the pass, and I gave them a good +backshish—not so much for the service they +had rendered me as for relieving for a few hours +the monotony of the journey. They were grateful, +and were the most civil brigands I have ever +encountered.</p> + +<p>While resting on the pass we had an amicable +conversation, and I asked them where they got +their beautiful clothes and the profusion of gold +and silver watch-chains.</p> + +<p>"It is not everybody we meet, sahib, that has +a formidable revolver like yours," answered the<a name="Pg_1-276" id="Pg_1-276"></a> +boisterous brigand, with a fit of sarcastic merriment, +echoed by all of us.</p> + +<p>"Yes," I retorted in the same sarcastic spirit, +"if it had not been for the revolver, possibly +next time I came along this road I might meet +the company dressed up like sahibs, in my +clothes!"</p> + +<p>I advised them to put up a white flag of truce +next time they sprang out from behind rocks +with the intention of holding up another Englishman, +or surely some day or other there +would be an accident.</p> + +<p>We all laughed heartily, and parted with +repeated salaams—and my luggage intact.</p> + +<p>In the moonlight I took the precaution to see +them well out of sight on one side of the pass +before we began to descend on the other, and +then we proceeded down the steep and rocky +incline.</p> + +<p>We reached Soh (8,000 feet) early in the +morning, and went on to the Chappar house at +Biddeshk. Here one abandons the region of +the Kehriz Kohrud and Kale Karf mountains, +west and east of the road respectively, and travels +over a flat sandy country devoid of vegetation +and water.</p> + +<p>Copper and iron are to be found at several +places in the mountains between Kashan and +Soh, for instance near Gudjar, at Dainum, and +at Kohrut.</p> + +<p>October is the month when the Backhtiari +tribes are somewhat troublesome previous to +their return to winter quarters. A great many<a name="Pg_1-277" id="Pg_1-277"></a> +caravans are attacked and robbed on this road, +unless escorted by soldiers. Daring attempts +have even been made to seize caravans of silver +bullion for the Bank of Persia. Only a few +days before I went through, an English gentleman +travelling from Isfahan was robbed between +Soh and Murchikhar of all his baggage, money, +and clothes.</p> + +<p>The country lends itself to brigandage. One +can see a flat plain for several miles to the north +and south, but to the west and east are most intricate +mountain masses where the robber bands +find suitable hiding places for themselves and their +booty. To the north-west we have flat open +country, but to the west from Biddeshk there +are as many as three different ranges of mountains. +To the east rises the peak Kehriz Natenz. +A great many low hill ranges lie between the +main backbone of the high and important range +extending from north-west to south-east, and the +route we follow, and it is curious to notice, not +only here but all over the parts of Persia I +visited, that the great majority of sand dunes, +and of hill and mountain ranges face north or +north-east. In other words, they extend either +from north-west to south-east, or roughly from +west to east; very seldom from north to south.</p> + +<p>From Biddeshk two soldiers insisted on escorting +my luggage. I was advised to take +them, for in default, one cannot claim compensation +from the Persian Government should the +luggage be stolen. In the case of <i>bona fide</i> +European travellers, robbed on the road, the<a name="Pg_1-278" id="Pg_1-278"></a> +Persian Government is extremely punctual in +making good the damage sustained and paying +ample compensation.</p> + +<p>The method employed by the local Governor, +responsible for the safety of travellers on the +road, is to inflict heavy fines on all the natives of +the district in which the robbery has occurred,—a +very simple and apparently effective way, it +would seem, of stopping brigandage, but one +which, in fact, increases it, because, in order to +find the money to pay the fines, the natives are +driven to the road, each successive larceny going +towards part payment of the previous one.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-32.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-32_th.jpg" alt="Chapparing—the Author's Post Horses." title="Chapparing—the Author's Post Horses." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Chapparing—the Author's Post Horses.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-33.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-33_th.jpg" alt="Persian Escort firing at Brigands." title="Persian Escort firing at Brigands." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Escort firing at Brigands.</p> + +<p>One or two domed reservoirs of rain-water are +found by the road-side, but the water is very bad.</p> + +<p>The soldiers, laden with cartridges, ran along +by the side of my horses and pretended to keep +a sharp look-out for robbers. Every now and +then they got much excited, loaded their rifles, +and fired away shot after shot at phantom +brigands, whom, they said, they perceived +peeping above sand hills a long way off.</p> + +<p>At Murchikhar there is nothing to be seen. +The post-horses were very good here and I was +able to go through this uninteresting part of the +road at a good speed of from six to seven miles an +hour. To the west the mountains were getting +quite close, and, in fact, we had hills all round +except to the south-east. Murchikhar is at a +fairly high altitude, 5,600 ft.</p> + +<p>One still heard much about brigands. Soldiers, +armed to the teeth, insisted on accompanying my +luggage. This, of course, involved endless back<a name="Pg_1-279" id="Pg_1-279"></a>shish, +but had to be put up with, as it is one of the +perquisites of the guards stationed at the various +stages. I have heard it stated that if one does +not require their services it is often these protectors +themselves who turn into robbers. There +is a guard-house on the road, and the two soldiers +stationed there told us that a large band of thirty +robbers had visited them during the early hours +of the morning, and had stolen from them all +their provisions, money and tobacco!</p> + +<p>We were not troubled in any way, and, with +the exception of some suspicious horsemen a long +way off making for the mountains, we hardly +met a soul on the road.</p> + +<p>A curious accident happened to one of my +luggage horses. For some reason of his own he +bolted, and galloped to the top of one of the +<i>kanat</i> cones, when getting frightened at the deep +hole before him he jumped it. His fore-legs +having given way on the steep incline on the +other side, he fell on his head and turned a +complete somersault, landing flat on his back, +where, owing to the packs, he remained with +his legs up in the air until we came to his aid +and freed him of the loads.</p> + +<p>On nearing Ghiez the track is over undulating +country, but after that the road to Isfahan is +good and flat, but very sandy and dusty. I got to +Ghiez in the evening but proceeded at once to +Isfahan. We galloped on the twelve miles, and +in less than two hours I was most hospitably +received in the house of Mr. Preece, the British +Consul-General in Isfahan.</p> + +<p><a name="Pg_1-280" id="Pg_1-280"></a></p> +<p>The distances from Teheran are as follows:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="1" summary="Distances from Teheran"> +<tr><td align='center'>From</td><td align='left'>Teheran to Kum</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='center'>farsakhs</td><td align='right'>96</td><td align='center'>miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Kum to Kashan</td><td align='right'>17</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>68</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Kashan to Kohrut</td><td align='right'>7</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>28</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Kohrut to Biddeshk</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Biddeshk to Murchikhar</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Murchikhar to Ghiez</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='left'>Ghiez to Isfahan</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'> </td><td align='left' colspan='2'>————</td><td align='left' colspan='2'>————</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'> </td><td align='left'>Total</td><td align='right'>69</td><td align='center'>farsakhs or</td><td align='right'>276</td><td align='left'>miles.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The time occupied in covering the whole +distance, including halts and delays, was somewhat +less than four days.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-281" id="Pg_1-281"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXVII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Missionary work in Persia—Educational and medical work—No +Mahommedan converts—Bibles—Julfa—Armenian +settlement—Conservative customs—Armenian women—Their +education—The Armenian man—Europeans—A +bird's-eye view of Isfahan—Armenian graveyard—A long +bridge—The Rev. James Loraine Garland—Mission among +the Jews.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is little to say of interest in connection +with Missionary work in Persia, except that a +considerable amount of good is being done in the +educational and medical line. There are well-established +schools and hospitals. The most +praiseworthy institution is the supply of medicinal +advice and medicine gratis or at a nominal cost. +As far as the work of Christianising is concerned, +it must be recollected that Missionaries are only +allowed in Persia on sufferance, and are on no +account permitted to make converts among the +Mahommedans. Any Mussulman, man, woman, +or child, who discards his religion for Christianity, +will in all probability lose his life.</p> + +<p>If any Christianising work is done at all it +has to be done surreptitiously and at a considerable +amount of risk to both convert and converter. +Some interest in the Christian religion is<a name="Pg_1-282" id="Pg_1-282"></a> +nevertheless shown by Mussulmans of the younger +generation—who now are practically atheists +at heart—but whether this interest is genuine or +not it is not for me to say. There is much in +the Bible that impresses them, and I understand +that constant applications are made for copies of +translations into the Persian language. To avoid +the great waste which occurred when Bibles were +given away for nothing, a nominal charge is now +made so as to prevent people throwing the book +away or using it for evil purposes.</p> + +<p>In Isfahan itself there are no missionaries +among the Mahommedans, but some are to be +found at Julfa, a suburb of Isfahan, on the south +bank of the Zindah-rud (river). Julfa was in +former days a prosperous Armenian settlement +of some 30,000 inhabitants, but is now mostly +in ruins since the great migration of Armenians +to India.</p> + +<p>There is an Armenian Archbishop at Julfa. +He has no real power, but is much revered by +the Armenians themselves. He provides priests +for the Armenians of India.</p> + +<p>A handsome cathedral, with elaborate ornamentations +and allegorical pictures, is one of the +principal structures in Julfa.</p> + +<p>One cannot help admiring the Armenians of +Julfa for retaining their conservative customs +so long. Within the last few years, however, +rapid strides have been made towards the abandonment +of the ancient dress and tongue. At +Julfa the Armenians have to a great extent +retained their native language, which they<a name="Pg_1-283" id="Pg_1-283"></a> +invariably speak among themselves, although +many of the men are equally fluent in Persian; +but in cities like Teheran, where they are thrown +into more direct contact with Persians, the Armenians +are almost more conversant with Persian +than with their own tongue. The men and +women of the better classes have adopted European +clothes, in which they might easily be +mistaken for Southern Italians or Spaniards.</p> + +<p>But in Julfa such is not the case, and the +ancient style of dress is so far maintained. One +is struck by the great number of women in the +streets of Julfa and the comparative lack of men. +This is because all able-bodied men migrate to +India or Europe, leaving their women behind +until sufficient wealth is accumulated to export +them also to foreign lands.</p> + +<p>The education of the Armenian women of +the middle and lower classes consists principally +in knitting socks—one sees rows of matrons and +girls sitting on the doorsteps busily employed +thus,—and in various forms of culinary instruction. +But the better class woman is well +educated in European fashion, and is bright and +intelligent.</p> + +<p>The Armenian woman, in her ample and +speckless white robes, her semi-covered face, and +beautiful soft black eyes, is occasionally captivating. +The men, on the other hand, although +handsome, have something indescribable about +them that does not make them particularly +attractive.</p> + +<p>The Armenian man—the true type of the<a name="Pg_1-284" id="Pg_1-284"></a> +Levantine—has great business capacities, wonderful +facility for picking up languages, and a +persuasive flow of words ever at his command. +Sceptical, ironical and humorous—with a bright, +amusing manner alike in times of plenty or +distress—a born philosopher, but uninspiring +of confidence,—with eyes that never look straight +into yours, but are ever roaming all over the +place,—with religious notions adaptable to +business prospects,—very hospitable and good-hearted, +given to occasional orgies,—such is the +Persian-Armenian of to-day.</p> + +<p>The more intelligent members of the male +community migrate to better pastures, where +they succeed, by steady hard work and really +practical brains, in amassing considerable fortunes. +The less enterprising remain at home to make +and sell wine. Personally, I found Armenians +surprisingly honest.</p> + +<p>In Julfa the Europeans—of whom, except in +business, there are few—have comfortable, almost +luxurious residences. The principal streets of the +Settlement are extremely clean and nice for +Persia. The Indo-European Telegraph Office is +also here. But the best part of Julfa—from a +pictorial point of view—is the extensive Armenian +cemetery, near a picturesque background +of hills and directly on the slopes of Mount +Sofia. There are hundreds of rectangular tombstones, +many with neatly bevelled edges, and +epitaphs of four or five lines. A cross is engraved +on each grave, and some have a little urn at the +head for flowers.<a name="Pg_1-285" id="Pg_1-285"></a></p> + +<p>From the roof of a house situated at the +highest point of the inclined plane, one obtains +a magnificent bird's-eye view of Isfahan, its +ancient grandeur being evinced by the great +expanse of ruins all round it. The walls of +Isfahan were said at one time to measure twenty-four +miles in circumference. Like all other cities +of Persia, Isfahan does not improve by too distant +a view. The mud roofs are so alike in colour to +the dried mud of the streets that a deadly +monotony must follow, as a matter of course; +but the many beautiful green gardens round +about and in Isfahan itself are a great relief to +the eye, and add much attraction to the landscape.</p> + +<p>Most prominent of all buildings in the city +are the great semi-spherical dome of the Mesjid-i-Shah, +with its gracefully ornamented tiles; the +Madrassah; the multi-columned, flat-roofed +Palace, and the high minarets in couples, dotted +all over the city. Then round about, further +away, stand any number of curious circular +towers, the pigeon towers.</p> + +<p>The bed of the river between Isfahan and +Julfa is over six hundred feet wide, and is +spanned by three bridges. One of these, with +thirty-four arches, is no less than 1,000 ft. in +length, but is much out of repair.</p> + +<p>The Armenian Christians of Julfa are enjoying +comparative safety at present, but until quite +recently were much persecuted by the Mahommedans, +the Mullahs being particularly bitter +against them.<a name="Pg_1-286" id="Pg_1-286"></a></p> + +<p>One sees a great many priests about Julfa, and +as I visited the place on a Sunday the people +looked so very demure and sanctimonious—I am +speaking of the Armenians—on their way out of +church; taciturn and with head low or talking +in a whisper, all toddling alongside the wall—as +people from church generally do,—that I must +confess I was glad when I left this place of +oppressive sanctity and returned to Isfahan. +Somehow, Julfa impresses one as a discordant +note in Persian harmony—although a very fine +and pleasing note in itself.</p> + +<p>Until quite recently the Persians objected to +foreigners residing even in Isfahan itself. The +officials of the Bank of Persia were the first to +take up their abode within the city wall, then +soon after came Mr. Preece, our able and +distinguished Consul-General.</p> + +<p>There is now a third Englishman residing in +Jubareh, the Jewish quarter, the Revd. James +Loraine Garland, of the London Society for +Promoting Christianity amongst the Jews of +Isfahan. Why such a Society should exist at all +seems to any one with a sense of humour bewildering, +but on getting over the first shock of +surprise one finds that of all the Missions to Persia +it is probably the most sensible, and worked +on practical, sound, useful lines. Much as I am +unfavourably inclined towards religious Missions +of any kind, I could not help being impressed +with Mr. Garland's very interesting work.</p> + +<p>The first time I saw Mr. Garland I was nearly +run over by him as he was riding a race with a<a name="Pg_1-287" id="Pg_1-287"></a> +sporting friend on the Golahek road near Teheran—raising +clouds of dust, much to the concern of +passers-by.</p> + +<p>The same day I met Mr. Garland in Teheran, +when he was garbed in the ample clothes of the +sporting friend, his own wardrobe having been +stolen, with his money and all other possessions, +by robbers on the Isfahan-Kashan road. In +fact, he was the Englishman referred to in +Chapter XXVI.</p> + +<p>Being somewhat of a sportsman myself, this +highly-sporting clergyman appealed to me. Extremely +gentlemanly, courteous, tactful, sensible +and open-minded, he was not a bit like a +missionary. He was a really good man. His +heart and soul were in his work. He very +kindly asked me to visit his Mission in Isfahan, +and it was a real pleasure to see a Mission worked +on such sensible lines.</p> + +<p>The first Mission to the Jews of Persia and +Chaldea was established in 1844 by the Reverend +Dr. Stern, who resided part of the year in +Bagdad, and the remainder in Isfahan. The +work was up-hill, and in 1865 the Mission was +suspended.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-288" id="Pg_1-288"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Mission among Jews—Schools for boys and girls—A +practical institution—The Jews of Persia—Persecution by +Persians—Characteristics of Jews—Girls—Occupations—Taxation—The +social level of Jews.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> October, 1889, to December, 1891, a +Christianised Jew of Teheran, named Mirza +Korollah, worked in Isfahan as the representative +of the Society for promoting Christianity among +the Jews. A Bible depôt was opened, and a +school started at the request of the Jews themselves. +In December, 1891, however, Mirza +Korollah was banished from the city, and the +work was again interrupted.</p> + +<p>In 1897, Mr. Garland volunteered to undertake +the work in Persia, and his offer was gladly +accepted. On his arrival in Isfahan he found, +he told me, a prosperous boys' school, that had +been re-opened in 1894 by a native Jewish +Christian, who rejoiced in the name of Joseph +Hakim, and who carried on the educational work +under the supervision of members of the Church +Missionary Society resident in Julfa. It was +deemed advisable to commence a night-school, +as many of the boys were unable to attend day<a name="Pg_1-289" id="Pg_1-289"></a> +classes. The scheme answered very well, and +has been steadily continued.</p> + +<p>As many as 200 boys attended the school daily +in February, 1898, a fact that shows the success +of the new enterprise from the very beginning.</p> + +<p>At the invitation of a number of Jewesses, Miss +Stuart, the Bishop of Waiapu's daughter, kindly +consented to go over twice a week to the Jewish +quarter to instruct them in the Holy Scriptures. +This led to the commencement of a girls' +school with twelve pupils, at a time of great +turmoil and anxiety. However, the experiment +had the happiest results.</p> + +<p>It was not, nevertheless, till 1899 that Mr. +Garland was able to take up his abode in the +Jewish quarter. He met with no opposition +whatever from Mahommedans or Jews. The +usual Sunday service, attended by converts and +inquirers, and a Saturday afternoon class were +commenced in 1899, and have uninterruptedly +continued to the present time.</p> + +<p>To me, personally, the most important part of +the Mission, and one to which more time is +devoted than to praying, was the excellent carpentry +class for boys, begun in 1900, and the +carpet-weaving apparatus set up on the premises +for the girls. The former has been a great +success, even financially, and is paying its way. +The latter, although financially not yet a success, +is of great value in teaching the girls how to +weave. Necessarily, so many hands have to be +employed in the manufacture of a large carpet, +and the time spent in the manufacture is so long,<a name="Pg_1-290" id="Pg_1-290"></a> +that it is hardly possible to expect financial prosperity +from mere beginners; but the class teaches +the girls a way to earn money for themselves in +future years.</p> + +<p>Both trades were selected by Mr. Garland, particularly +because they were the most suitable in a +country where Jews are excluded from the more +honest and manly trades, and Jewesses often +grow up to be more of a hindrance than a help +to their husbands. Worse still is the case of +Jews who become Christians; they have the +greatest difficulty in earning their living at all.</p> + +<p>These industrial occupations are a great practical +help to the studies of the pupils, who are taught, +besides their own language, Persian and Hebrew, +and, if they wish, English, geography, etc.</p> + +<p>More frivolous but less remunerative forms of +recreation, such as cricket, tennis, football, or +gymnastic drills,—which invariably accompany +Christianity in the East, and develop most parts +of a convert's anatomy except his brain,—have +not been deemed of sufficient importance among +the Jews of Isfahan, who would, moreover, think +our best English games or muscle-developers in +the highest degree indecorous and unseemly.</p> + +<p>On the whole the Society's work among the +Jews of Teheran, Hamadan and Isfahan has been +most encouraging, and this is to be put down +entirely to the tact and personal influence of Mr. +Garland, who is greatly respected by Jews and +Mahommedans alike. No better testimony to +the appreciation of his work could exist than the +fact that in his interesting journeys through<a name="Pg_1-291" id="Pg_1-291"></a> +Persia, he is frequently invited to preach in +crowded synagogues.</p> + +<p>It seems probable that the Jews of Persia are +descendants of the Ten Tribes, and more probable +still that Jews have resided in Isfahan from +its earliest foundation.</p> + +<p>In the tenth century—under the Dilemi +dynasty—Isfahan consisted of two cities, Yahoodieh +(Jewry) and Shehristan (the City). In +the middle of the twelfth century, according to +Benjamin of Tudela, the Jews of Isfahan numbered +15,000.</p> + +<p>At present they number about 5,000. They +are mostly pedlars by profession, or engaged in +making silk thread (Abreesham Kâr, Charkhtâbee, +etc.). There are a few merchants of comparative +influence. Jewellers and traders in precious +stones, brokers and wine-sellers are frequent, but +the majority consists almost entirely of diviners, +musicians, dancers—music and dancing are considered +low, contemptible occupations in Persia—scavengers, +and beggars.</p> + +<p>The Jews of Isfahan, like those of all other +cities in Persia, have been subjected to a great +deal of oppression. There is a story that +Timour-i-Lang (Tamerlane—end of 14th century) +was riding past a synagogue in Isfahan, +where the Mesjid-i-Ali now stands, and that the +Jews made such a horrible noise at their prayers +(in saying the "Shema, Israel" on the Day of +Atonement) that his horse bolted and he was +thrown and lamed. Hence his name, and +hence also a terrible massacre of the Jews,<a name="Pg_1-292" id="Pg_1-292"></a> +which reduced their number to about one-third.</p> + +<p>Even to this day it is not easy for Jews to +obtain justice against Mahommedans. Only as +recently as 1901 a Jew was murdered in cold +blood a few miles from Isfahan, and his body +flung into the river. Although the murder had +been witnessed, and the murderer was well +known, no punishment was ever inflicted upon +him.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-34.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-34_th.jpg" alt="Jewish Girls, Isfahan." title="Jewish Girls, Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Jewish Girls, Isfahan.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-35.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-35_th.jpg" alt="An Isfahan Jew." title="An Isfahan Jew." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">An Isfahan Jew.</p> + +<p>The Jews of Isfahan possess striking features, +as can be seen by a characteristic head of a man +reproduced in the illustration. The face is +generally very much elongated, with aquiline +nose of abnormal length and very broad at the +nostrils. The brow is heavy, screening deeply-sunken +eyes revealing a mixed expression of sadness +and slyness, tempered somewhat by probable +abuse of animal qualities. Of a quiet and rather +sulky nature—corroded by ever-unsatisfied avidity—assumedly +courteous, but morose by nature,—with +a mighty level head in the matter of +business; such is the Jew of Isfahan. He is +extremely picturesque, quite biblical in his long +loose robe and skull cap, with turban wound +tight round his head.</p> + +<p>Jewish girls when very young are nice-looking +without being beautiful, very supple and pensive, +and with expressive eyes. They lack the unsteady, +insincere countenance of the men, and +have reposeful, placid faces, with occasional +good features. There is a good deal of character +in their firmly closed lips, the upper lip being<a name="Pg_1-293" id="Pg_1-293"></a> +slightly heavy but well-shaped. The inside of +the mouth is adorned with most regular, firm, +and beautiful teeth. Curiously enough, the +typical Jewish nose—so characteristic in men—is +seldom markedly noticeable in women. I +have even seen Jewish girls with turned-up +noses. Their arms are beautifully modelled, +and the hands as a whole extremely graceful, +with unusually long and supple fingers, but +with badly-shaped nails of an unwholesome +colour.</p> + +<p>Jewesses in Persia are not kept in seclusion +and go about with uncovered faces, which +exposes them to constant and unpleasant insult +from the Mahommedans. They dress differently +from Persian women, with a long skirt of either +black, blue, or coloured cotton. The head is +framed in a white kerchief, leaving exposed the +jet black hair parted in the middle and covering +the temples. Over that is worn a long cloak, +either black or white, almost identical with the +Persian "chudder."</p> + +<p>Jewesses are said to be most affectionate and +devoted to their husbands and their families. +They are extremely amenable to reason—except +in cases of jealousy, which is one of the leading +characteristics of the race in general and of Jewish +women in particular. They are hard-working, +intelligent, thrifty. They take life seriously: +are endowed with no sense of humour to speak +of—it would be difficult to have any under their +circumstances—and whether owing to severe +anæmia, caused by wretched and insufficient<a name="Pg_1-294" id="Pg_1-294"></a> +food, or to some external influence, are often +affected by melancholia.</p> + +<p>Soft and shy in manner and speech, under +normal circumstances, pale and silent, the Jewish +woman is not unattractive.</p> + +<p>One of the few occupations open to Jewesses +is the practice of midwifery.</p> + +<p>Hunted as the Jews are by everybody in the +streets, and in the bazaar, insulted, spat upon, +the women often compelled to prostitution, it is +to be marvelled that any honesty at all is left in +them.</p> + +<p>The higher Persian schools and colleges do not +admit Jews as students, nor is education permitted +to them even in the lower Persian schools. +Therefore, the welcome work of Mr. Garland is +much needed and appreciated. A special quarter +is reserved in which the Jews must live, huddled +together, the majority of them in abject poverty. +Until of late no peace was given them. Their +customs were interfered with in every way by +vagabond Persians, and the little money they +made by industrious habits was extorted from +them by officials or by the enterprising Persian +to whom the Jewish community was farmed +out.</p> + +<p>The Jews of a city are taxed a certain sum, +usually beyond what they can afford to pay. +Some speculator undertakes to pay the amount +for them to the local Governor and receives +authority to compensate himself from the Jewish +community as best he can, either by making +them work, or trade, or by selling their clothes<a name="Pg_1-295" id="Pg_1-295"></a> +or depriving them of the few articles of furniture +they may possess.</p> + +<p>Until quite lately, at public festivities the meek +and resigned Jews were driven before an insulting +mob who held them in derision, and exposed +them to most abject treatment; some of their +number ending by being pitched into the water-tank +which adorns the courtyard or garden of +most residences. Little by little, however, with +the spread of civilisation, Jews have been spared +the torture of these baths.</p> + +<p>The Jew is looked upon as unclean and untrustworthy +by the Persian, who refuses to use +him as a soldier, but who gladly employs him to +do all sorts of dirty jobs which Persian pride +would not allow him to do himself. His social +level therefore stands even lower than that of the +Shotri of India, the outcast who does not stop at +the basest occupations.</p> + +<p>The majority of the older Jews are illiterate, +but not unintelligent. Each city has one or +more Rabbis or priests, but they have no power +and receive a good share of the insults in the +Persian bazaars.</p> + +<p>Whatever feeling of repulsion towards the +race one may have, the position of the Jews in +Persia—although infinitely better than it was +before—is still a most pathetic one.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-296" id="Pg_1-296"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXIX" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The square of Isfahan—The Palace gate—The entrance to +the bazaar—Beggars—Formalities and etiquette—The +bazaar—Competition—How Persians buy—Long credit—Arcades—Hats—Cloth +shops—Sweet shops—Butchers—Leather +goods—Saddle-bags—The bell shop—Trunks.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> great square of Isfahan is looked upon as +the centre of the city. It is a huge oblong, with +the great and beautiful dome of the Mesjid-i-Shah +on one side of the long rectangle, and another +high domed mosque with two high minarets at +the end. The very impressive red and white +quadrangular palace gate, flat-topped, and with a +covered blue verandah supported on numerous +slender columns, stands on the side of the square +opposite the Mesjid-i-Shah mosque.</p> + +<p>To the north of the great square one enters +the bazaar by a high gate, handsomely tiled with +flower ornamentations; this gateway has three +lower windows and a triple upper one, and a +doorway under the cool shade of the outer projecting +pointed archway. To the right of the +entrance as one looks at it, rises a three-storied +building as high as the gate of the bazaar. It +has a pretty upper verandah, the roof of which +is supported on transverse sets of three wooden<a name="Pg_1-297" id="Pg_1-297"></a> +columns each, except the outer corner roof-supports, +which are square and of bricks. In +front is an artistic but most untidy conglomeration +of awnings to protect from the sun pedlars, +merchants and people enjoying their kalians, +or a thimbleful of tea.</p> + +<p>There are men selling fruit which is displayed +upon the dirty ground, and there are tired horses +with dismounted cavaliers sleeping by their side, +the reins fastened for precaution to a heavy stone +or slung to the arm. One sees masses of children +of all ages and conditions of health, from the neatly +attired son of the wealthy merchant, who disports +himself with his eldest brother, to the orphan +boy, starving, and in rags covered with mud. +There is a little cripple with a shrunken leg, and +further, an old man with lupus in its most ghastly +form. Disreputably-clothed soldiers lie about in +the crowd, and a woman or two with their faces +duly screened in white cloths may be seen.</p> + +<p>The sight of a sahib always excites great +curiosity in Persia. Followed by a crowd of +loafers and most insistent beggars, one forces +one's way into the crowded bazaar, while the +ghulams of the Consulate—without whom it +would be indecorous to go anywhere—shove the +people on one side or the other without ceremony, +drive the donkeys, laden with wood or panniers +of fruit, into the shops—much to the horror of +the shopman,—and disband the strings of mules +and the horsemen to make room for the passing +sahib.</p> + +<p>It is very difficult, under such circumstances,<a name="Pg_1-298" id="Pg_1-298"></a> +to stop any length of time at any particular spot +to study the shops, the shop-people, and the +buyers, for instead of being an unobserved +spectator, one is at all times the principal actor +in the scene and the centre of attention, and +therefore a most disturbing element in the +crowd.</p> + +<p>There are so many complicated and tiresome +formalities to be adhered to in order to avoid +offending the natives, or the officials, or the +susceptibilities of foreign residents, who seem to +feel responsible for the doings of every traveller—and +who, at all events, remain to suffer for +the untactful deeds of some of them,—and there +are so many things one must not do for fear of +destroying the prestige of one's country, that, +really, if one possesses a simple and practical +mind, one gets rather tired of Persian town life, +with its exaggerated ties, its empty outward show +and pomp and absolute lack of more modest aims +which, after all, make real happiness in life.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-36.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-36_th.jpg" alt="The Square, Isfahan." title="The Square, Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Square, Isfahan.</p> + +<p>As for European ladies it is considered most +improper to be seen with uncovered faces in the +bazaar. In fact, walking anywhere in the town +they are generally exposed to insult.</p> + +<p>I once took a walk through the various bazaars, +but the second time, at our Consul's recommendation, +was advised to ride in state, with gold-braided, +mounted Consulate ghulams preceding +and following me, while I myself rode a magnificent +stallion presented by Zil-es-Sultan to our +Consul. The horse had not been ridden for +some time and was slightly fresh. The place to<a name="Pg_1-299" id="Pg_1-299"></a> +which we directed our animals was the brass +bazaar, the most crowded and diabolically noisy +place in the Shah's dominions.</p> + +<p>The sudden change from the brilliant light of +the sun to the pitch darkness of the vaulted +bazaar, affected one's sight, and it was some +few seconds before one could distinguish anything, +although one could hear the buzzing +noise of an excited crowd, and the cries of the +ghulams ordering the people to make room for +the cavalcade.</p> + +<p>In nearly all bazaars of the principal cities of +Persia a very good custom prevails. One or +more streets are devoted entirely to the same +article, so that the buyer may conveniently make +comparisons, and the various merchants are also +kept up to the mark by the salutary competition +close at hand thus rendered unavoidable. A +Persian does not go to a shop to buy anything +without going to every other shop in the bazaar +to ask whether he can get a similar article better +and cheaper. Such a convenience as fixed +prices, alike for all, does not exist in the Persian +bazaar, and prices are generally on the ascending +or descending scale, according to the merchant's +estimate of his customer's wealth. It is looked +upon as a right and a duty to extort from a rich +man the maximum of profit, whereas from a poor +fellow a few shais benefit are deemed sufficient.</p> + +<p>To buy anything at all in the bazaar involves +great loss of time—and patience,—excessive +consumption of tea plus the essential kalian-smoking. +Two or three or more visits are paid<a name="Pg_1-300" id="Pg_1-300"></a> +to the stall by Persian buyers before they can +come to an agreement with the merchant, and +when the goods are delivered it is the merchant's +turn to pay endless visits to his customer's +house before he can obtain payment for them. +Long credit is generally given by merchants to +people known to them. There is comparatively +little ready money business done except in the +cheapest goods.</p> + +<p>We shoved our way along through the very +narrow streets with a long row before us of sun +columns, piercing through the circular openings +in the domed arcade of the bazaar, and projecting +brilliant patches of light now on brightly-coloured +turbans, now on the black chudder of +a woman, now on the muddy ground constantly +sprinkled with water to keep the streets cool.</p> + +<p>There are miles of bazaar, in Teheran and +Isfahan, roofed over in long arcades to protect +the shops and buyers from the sun in summer, +from the rain and snow in winter. The height +of the arcade is from thirty to sixty feet, the +more ancient ones being lower than the modern +ones.</p> + +<p>To any one well acquainted with other Eastern +countries there is absolutely nothing in a Persian +bazaar that is worth buying. The old and +beautiful objects of art have left the country long +ago, and the modern ones have neither sufficient +artistic merit nor intrinsic value to be worth the +trouble and expense of sending them home. For +curiosity's sake—yes, there are a few tawdry +articles which may amuse friends in Europe, but<a name="Pg_1-301" id="Pg_1-301"></a> +what I mean is that there is nothing that is really +of intense interest or skilful workmanship, such +as one can find in Japan, in China, in Morocco +or Egypt.</p> + +<p>We ride through the street of hatters, each +shop with walls lined with piles of <i>kolah</i> hats, +black and brimless, shaped either in the section +of a cone or rounded with a depression on the +top. They are made of astrakan or of black felt, +and are worn by the better people; but further +on we come to cheaper shops, where spherical +skull caps of white or light brown felt are being +manufactured for the lower classes.</p> + +<p>As we ride along, a stinging smell of dyes tells +us that we are in the cloth street, indigo colours +prevailing, and also white and black cottons +and silks. One cannot help pitying the sweating +shopman, who is busy unrolling cloths of various +makes before a number of squatting women, who +finger each and confabulate among themselves, +and request to have the roll deposited by their +side for further consideration with a mountain of +other previously unrolled fabrics,—just like +women at home. The rolls are taken from neat +wooden shelves, on which, however, they seldom +rest. Soiled remnants of European stocks play +a very important part in this section of the +bazaar.</p> + +<p>On turning round a corner we have shoes and +boots, foreign made, of the favourite side-elastic +pattern, or the native white canvas ones with +rope soles—most comfortable and serviceable for +walking. The local leather ones have strong<a name="Pg_1-302" id="Pg_1-302"></a> +soles with nails and turned-up toes, not unlike +the familiar Turkish shoe; while the slippers +for women have no back to them at the heel +and have fancy toes.</p> + +<p>Then come the attractive sweet-shops, with +huge trays of transparent candy, and the <i>Pash +mak</i> pulled sugar, as white and light as raw silk, +most delicious but sticky. In bottles above, the +eye roams from highly coloured confetti to +<i>Abnabad</i> and <i>Kors</i> or other deadly-looking +lozenges, while a crowd of enraptured children +deposit shais in the hands of the prosperous +trader, who promptly weighs and gives in exchange +a full measure of <i>rahat-ul-holkoom</i>, "the +ease of the throat," or candied sugar, duly +packed in paper bags.</p> + +<p>There is nothing very attractive in the +butchers' bazaar; the long rows of skinned +animals black with flies, and in various degrees +of freshness, made even less artistic by ornamentations +of paper rosettes and bits of gold and +silver paper. Beef, camel, mutton, game and +chickens, all dead and with throats cut—the +Mahommedan fashion of killing—can be purchased +here, but the smell of meat is so strong +and sickening that we will promptly adjourn to +the leather-work bazaar.</p> + +<p>For a man, this is probably the most typical +and interesting section of the Persian retail +commerce. There is something picturesque +and artistic in the clumsy silver or brass or iron +mounted saddles, with handsome red, or green, +or brown ample leather flaps, gracefully orna<a name="Pg_1-303" id="Pg_1-303"></a>mented +with more or less elaboration to suit the +pockets of different customers. Then the harness +is pretty, with its silver inlaid iron decoration, +or solid silver or brass, and the characteristic +stirrups, nicely chiselled and not unlike the +Mexican ones. The greater part of the foot +can rest on the stirrup, so broad is its base. +Then come the saddlebags of all sizes, the +<i>horjin</i>, in cloth, in sacking, in expensive leather, +in carpeting, of all prices, with an ingenious +device of a succession of loops fastening the +one into the other, the last with a padlock, to +secure the contents of the bag from intrusive +hands.</p> + +<p>These <i>horjins</i>—or double bags—are extremely +convenient and are the most usual contrivance +in Persia for conveying luggage on horseback or +mules.</p> + +<p>Then in the lower part of the shop there is a +grand display of leather purses, sheaths for +knives, and a collection of leather stock whips, +gracefully tied into multiple knots.</p> + +<p>In this same bazaar, where everything in +connection with riding or loading animals can +be purchased, are also to be found the bell shops. +These confine themselves particularly to horses', +mules' and camels' neck decorations. Long +tassels, either red or black, in silk or dyed horsehair, +silk or leather bands with innumerable +small conical shrill bells, and sets of larger bells +in successive gradations of sizes, one hanging +inside the other, are found here. Then there +are some huge cylindrical bells standing about<a name="Pg_1-304" id="Pg_1-304"></a> +two and a half feet high, with scrolls and geometrical +designs on their sides. These are for +camels and are not intended to hang from the +neck. They are slung on one side under the +lighter of the two loads of the pack.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-37.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-37_th.jpg" alt="The Palace Gate, Isfahan." title="The Palace Gate, Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Palace Gate, Isfahan.</p> + +<p>Next, one is attracted by a shop full of leather +trunks, of the reddest but not the best morocco, +stretched while wet upon a rough wooden +frame. Primitive ornamentations are painted +on the leather, and the corners of each box are +strengthened with tin caps and rings. The +trunks for pack animals are better made than the +others, and are solidly sewn, with heavy straps +and rings to sling them upon the saddles. +Gaudy revolver pouches, cartridge belts, and +slings for daggers are to be purchased in the +same shop.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-305" id="Pg_1-305"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXX" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Brass Bazaar—Mirror shop—Curdled milk—A tea shop—Fruit +and vegetable bazaar—The walnut seller—The +Auctioneer—Pipe shops—Barber—Headdress—Bread shops—Caravanserais—The +day of rest.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Winding</span> our way through the labyrinth of +narrow streets, and meeting a crescendo of +diabolical din as we approach it, we emerge into +a more spacious and lighter arcade, where +hundreds of men are hammering with all their +might upon pieces of copper that are being +shaped into trays, pots with double spouts, or +pans. This is the coppersmiths' bazaar. On a +long low brick platform, extending from one end +to the other on both sides of the street, is tastefully +arranged the work already finished. Huge +circular trays have coarse but elaborate ornamentations +of figures, trees and birds chiselled +upon them—not unlike the Indian Benares trays +in general appearance, but not in the character of +the design. Copper vases with spouts are gracefully +shaped, the ancient Persian models being +maintained. They are much used by Persians in +daily life. More elaborate is the long-necked +vessel with a circular body and slender curved<a name="Pg_1-306" id="Pg_1-306"></a> +spout, that rests upon a very quaint and elegantly +designed wash-basin with perforated cover and +exaggerated rim. This is used after meals in the +household of the rich, when an attendant pours +tepid water scented with rose-water upon the +fingers, which have been used in eating instead +of a fork. These vessels and basins are usually +of brass. All along the ground, against the wall, +stand sets of concentric trays of brass, copper and +pewter, and metal tumblers innumerable, having +execrable designs upon them, and rendered more +hideous by being nickel-plated all over. Each +shop, about ten to twenty feet long and eight to +fifteen wide, has a furnace in one corner.</p> + +<p>Considering the few and primitive tools +employed, it is really wonderful that the work is +as good as it is. The polishing of trays is +generally done with their feet by boys, who +stand on them and with a circular motion of the +body revolve the tray to the right and left upon +a layer of wet sand until, after some hours of +labour, a sufficiently shiny surface is obtained by +friction.</p> + +<p>I became much interested in watching a man +joining together two pieces of metal to be turned +into an amphora, but the noise made the horse I +rode very restless. It was impossible to hear +any one speak, the din of the hammered metal +being so acute and being echoed in each dome of +the arcade. The horse became so alarmed when +the bellows began to blow upon the fire that he +tried to throw me, first by standing on his fore-legs +and scattering the crowd of yelling natives<a name="Pg_1-307" id="Pg_1-307"></a> +with his hindlegs, then by standing up erect the +other way about. In a moment the place was +clear of people; some had leapt on to the side +platform: others had rushed inside the shops. +The horse delighted in pirouetting about, kicking +the nearest metal vases and trays all over the +place, and causing quite a commotion. It was +rather amusing to watch the rapidity with which +the merchants a little way off withdrew their +goods to safety inside the premises to prevent +further damage. The horse, being then satisfied +that he could not shake me off, continued the +journey more or less peacefully through the +bazaar.</p> + +<p>Here is a mirror shop—imports from Austria. +There the flourishing grain merchants, whose +premises are the neatest and cleanest of the whole +bazaar. Each merchant tastily displays his various +cereals in heaps on speckless enormous brass trays, +and by the side of them dried fruit, in which he +also deals extensively. His shop is decorated +with silvered or red or blue glass balls.</p> + +<p>Further on is another very neat place, the +curdled-milk retailer's, with large flat metal tanks +filled with milk, and a great many trays, large +and little, in front of his premises. He, too, +keeps his place and belongings—but not himself—most +beautifully clean. He does a flourishing +business.</p> + +<p>Every now and then we come upon a very +spacious and well-lighted room, with gaudy +candelabras of Bohemian glass, and a large +steaming samovar. This is a tea-shop. There<a name="Pg_1-308" id="Pg_1-308"></a> +are plenty of men in it, in green or brown or +blue long coats, and all squatting lazily, cross-legged, +sipping tea from tiny glasses and being +helped to sugar from a large tray containing a +mountain of it.</p> + +<p>The fruit and vegetable bazaar is always a +feature of Persian city markets, water-melons, +cucumbers, grapes, apples, pomegranates, almonds +and walnuts playing a prominent part +in the various displays. Then there is the +retailer of peeled walnuts, a man who wears a +red cap and green coat, and who sells his goods +spread on a brass tray. The walnuts as soon as +peeled from their skin are thrown into a large +basin full of water, and when properly washed +are spread on the tray to dry, ready for consumption.</p> + +<p>The walnut man is generally a character. +He keeps his stall open even at night, when +other shops are closed, and has plenty to say to +all the passers-by on the merits of his walnuts.</p> + +<p>To enumerate all one sees in the bazaar would +take a volume to itself, but on glancing through +we see the excited auctioneer in his white turban +calling out figures on an ascending scale, +and tapping on a piece of wood when a sufficient +sum is offered and no more bids are forthcoming. +He has assistants showing round the various +articles as they are being sold,—umbrellas, +tooth-brushes, mirrors, knives, etc.</p> + +<p>The pipe shops are small—with black and +red and blue earthenware cups for the kalian. +There is not much variety in the shape of the<a name="Pg_1-309" id="Pg_1-309"></a> +pipes except that some are made to be used in +the joined hands as a draw-pipe for the smoke, +the cup being held between the thumbs. +Others, the majority of them, are intended for +the top part of the kalian.</p> + +<p>The barber's shop is a quaint one, remarkably +clean with whitewashed walls and a brick floor. +Up to some five feet along the walls is nailed a +cloth, usually red, against which the customers +rest their heads while being shaved. Hung +upon the walls are scissors of all sizes, razors, +and various other implements such as forceps for +drawing teeth, sharp lancets for bleeding, the +knives used for the operation of circumcision, and +a variety of wooden combs and branding irons.</p> + +<p>Yes, the Persian barber has multifarious occupations. +He is surgeon, dentist and masseur, +besides being an adept with comb and razor. +He is—like his brother of the West—an +incessant talker, and knows all the scandal of +the town. While at work he has a bowl of +clean water by his side which he uses on the +patient's face or top of the skull and neck, +which are in male Persians all clean-shaved. +No soap is used by typical Persian barbers. +Their short razors, in wooden cases, are stropped +on the barber's arm, or occasionally leg, and are +quite sharp.</p> + +<p>The younger folks of Persia shave the top of +the skull leaving long locks of hair at the side +of the head, which are gracefully pushed over +the ear and left hanging long behind, where +they are cut in a straight horizontal line round<a name="Pg_1-310" id="Pg_1-310"></a> +the neck. This fashion is necessitated by the +custom in Persia of never removing the heavy +headgear. The elder people, in fact, shave every +inch of the scalp, but balance this destruction of +hair by growing a long beard, frequently dyed +bright red or jet black with henna and indigo.</p> + +<p>The bread-shops of Persia are quaint, a piece +of bread being sometimes as big as a small +blanket and about as thick. These huge flat +loaves are hung up on slanting shelves. In +Central and Southern Persia, however, the +smaller kind of bread is more commonly used, +not unlike an Indian <i>chapati</i>. A ball of flour +paste is well fingered and pawed until it gets to +a semi-solid consistency. It is then flung several +times from one palm of the hand into the other, +after which it is spread flat with a roller upon a +level stone slab. A few indentations are made +upon its face with the end of the baker's fingers; +it is taken up and thrown with a rapid movement +upon the inner domed portion of a small +oven, some three to four feet high, within which +blazes a big charcoal fire. Several loaves are +thus baked against the hot walls and roof of the +oven, which has an aperture at the top, and +when properly roasted and beginning to curl and +fall they are seized with wonderful quickness +and brought out of the oven. Gloves on the +hands and a cover over the baker's face are +necessary to prevent burns and asphyxia from the +escaping gases of the charcoal from the aperture +over which the man must lean every time.</p> + +<p>In the bazaars of large cities one finds every<a name="Pg_1-311" id="Pg_1-311"></a> +now and then large caravanserais, handsome +courts with a tank of water in the centre and +shops all round. It is here that wholesale +dealers and traders have their premises, and that +caravans are accommodated on their arrival with +goods. There are generally trees planted all +round these courts to shade the animals and +buyers, and often a high and broad platform or +verandah all round, where the goods are spread +for inspection. Some of the richer caravanserais +are quite handsome, with neat latticed windows +and doors. The walls are painted white. The +court is crammed with tired camels, mules, +beggars and loafers.</p> + +<p>The camel men squat in one corner to smoke +their pipes and eat their bread, while the +merchants form another ring up above on the +verandah, where prices are discussed at the top +of their voices, a crowd of ever-to-be-found +loafers taking active part in the discussion.</p> + +<p>On a Friday, the day of rest of the +Mahommedan, the bazaar, so crowded on other +days, is absolutely deserted. All the shops—if a +hatter or two be excepted—are barricaded with +heavy wooden shutters and massive padlocks of +local or Russian make. Barring a dog or two +either lying asleep along the wall, or scraping a +heap of refuse in the hope of satisfying hunger—there +is hardly a soul walking about. Attracted +by a crowd in the distance, one finds a fanatic +gesticulating like mad and shouting at the top of +his voice before an admiring crowd of ragamuffins +squatting round him in a circle.<a name="Pg_1-312" id="Pg_1-312"></a></p> + +<p>On these holidays, when the streets are clear, +the effect of the columns of sunlight pouring down +from the small circular apertures from each dome +of the arcade, and some twenty feet apart, is very +quaint. It is like a long colonnade of brilliant +light in the centre of the otherwise dark, muddy-looking, +long, dirty tunnel. At noon, when the +sun is on the meridian, these sun columns are, +of course, almost perfectly vertical, but not so +earlier in the morning or later in the afternoon.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-313" id="Pg_1-313"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A carpet factory—Children at work—The process of carpet-making—Foreign +influence in the design—Aniline dyes—"Ancient +carpets" manufactured to-day—Types of carpets—Kerman +carpets—Isfahan silk carpets—Kurdistan rugs—Birjand +and Sultanabad carpets—Carpets made by wandering +tribes—Jewellers—Sword-makers and gunsmiths—Humming +birds.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A visit</span> to a carpet factory proves interesting. +The horses must be left, for it is necessary to +squeeze through a low and narrow door in order +to enter the shed where the carpets are made.</p> + +<p>Every one is familiar with the intricate and +gorgeous designs of Persian carpets, and one +imagines that only veteran skilful artisans can +tackle such artistic work. One cannot, therefore, +help almost collapsing with surprise on +seeing mere children from the age of six to ten +working away at the looms with a quickness and +ease that makes one feel very small.</p> + +<p>In badly lighted and worse ventilated rooms, +they sit perched in long rows on benches at +various altitudes from the floor, according to the +progression and size of the carpet, the web of +which is spread tight vertically in front of them. +Occasionally when the most difficult patterns are<a name="Pg_1-314" id="Pg_1-314"></a> +executed, or for patterns with European innovations +in the design, a coloured drawing is +hung up above the workers; but usually there is +nothing for them to go by, except that a superintendent—an +older boy—sings out the stitches +in a monotonous cadence. A row of coloured +balls of the various coloured threads employed +in the design hang from the loom just within +reach of the boys' hands.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-38.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-38_th.jpg" alt="Boys Weaving a Carpet." title="Boys Weaving a Carpet." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Boys Weaving a Carpet.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-39.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-39_th.jpg" alt="Cotton Cleaners." title="Cotton Cleaners." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Cotton Cleaners.</p> + +<p>The process of carpet-making is extremely +simple, consisting merely of a series of twisted—not +absolutely knotted—coloured worsted +threads, each passing round one of the main +threads of the foundation web. The catching-up +of each consecutive vertical thread in the web, +inserting the coloured worsted, giving it the +twist that makes it remain in its position, and +cutting it to the proper length, is done so quickly +by the tiny, supple fingers of the children that +it is impossible to see how it is done at all until +one requests them to do it slowly for one's +benefit. After each horizontal row of twisted +threads, a long horizontal thread is interwoven, +and then the lot is beaten down with a heavy +iron comb with a handle to it, not unlike a huge +hair-brush cleaner. There are different modes +of twisting the threads, and this constitutes the +chief characteristic of carpets made in one +province or another.</p> + +<p>The labour involved in their manufacture is +enormous, and some carpets take several years to +manufacture. The children employed are made +to work very hard at the looms—seldom less<a name="Pg_1-315" id="Pg_1-315"></a> +than twelve or fourteen hours a day—and the +exertion upon their memory to remember the +design, which has taken them several months to +learn by heart, is great. The constant strain on +the eyes, which have to be kept fixed on each +successive vertical thread so as not to pick up +the wrong one, is very injurious to their sight. +Many of the children of the factories I visited +were sore-eyed, and there was hardly a poor +mite who did not rub his eyes with the back of +his hand when I asked him to suspend work for +a moment. The tension upon their pupils must +be enormous in the dim light.</p> + +<p>Although made in a primitive method, the +carpet weaving of Persia is about the only +manufacture that deserves a first-class place in +the industries of Iran. The carpets still have a +certain artistic merit, although already contaminated +to no mean extent by European +commerciality. Instead of the beautiful and +everlasting vegetable dyes which were formerly +used for the worsted and silks, and the magnificent +blue, reds, greens, greys and browns, ghastly +aniline dyed threads—raw and hurtful to the +eye—are very commonly used now. Also, of +the carpets for export to Europe and America +the same care is not taken in the manufacture +as in the ancient carpets, and the bastard design +is often shockingly vulgarised to appease the +inartistic buyer.</p> + +<p>But even with all these faults, Persian carpets, +if not to the eye of an expert, for all general +purposes are on the whole better than those of<a name="Pg_1-316" id="Pg_1-316"></a> +any other manufacture. They have still the +great advantage of being made entirely by hand +instead of by machinery. It is not unwise, before +buying a Persian carpet, to rub it well with a +white cloth. If it is aniline-dyed, some of the +colour will come off, but if the old Persian dyes +have been used no mark should remain on the +cloth. However, even without resorting to this, +it must be a very poor eye indeed that cannot recognise +at once the terrible raw colours of aniline +from the soft, delicious tones of vegetable dyes, +which time can only soften but never discolour.</p> + +<p>To manufacture "ancient carpets" is one of +the most lucrative branches of modern Persian +carpet-making. The new carpets are spread in +the bazaar, in the middle of the street where it +is most crowded, and trampled upon for days or +weeks, according to the age required, foot-passengers +and their donkeys, mules and camels +making a point of treading on it in order to "add +age" to the manufacturer's goods. When +sufficiently worn down the carpet is removed, +brushed, and eventually sold for double or treble +its actual price owing to its antiquity!</p> + +<p>There are some thirty different types of carpets +in Persia. The Kerman carpets are, to my mind, +the most beautiful I saw in Persia, in design, +colour and softness. They seem more original +and graceful, with conventional plant, flower and +bird representations of delicate and very varied +tints, and not so much geometrical design about +them as is the case in the majority of Persian +carpets.<a name="Pg_1-317" id="Pg_1-317"></a></p> + +<p>Less successful, in fact quite ugly, but quaint, +are those in which very large and ill-proportioned +figures are represented. One feels +Arab influence very strongly in a great many of +the Kerman designs. They say that Kerman +sheep have extremely soft and silky hair, and also +that the Kerman water possesses some chemical +qualities which are unsurpassable for obtaining +most perfect tones of colour with the various +dyes.</p> + +<p>The principal carpet factory is in the Governor's +Palace, where old designs are faithfully copied, +and really excellent results obtained. The +present Governor, H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, and his +nephew take particular interest in the manufacture, +and devote much attention to the +carpets, which retain the ancient native characteristics, +and are hardly contaminated by foreign +influence.</p> + +<p>The Isfahan silk carpets are also very beautiful, +but not quite so reposeful in colour nor graceful +in design. Those of Kurdistan are principally +small prayer rugs, rather vivid in colour, and +much used by Mahommedans in their morning +and evening salaams towards Mecca. In +Khorassan, Meshed, Sultanabad, Kaian (Kain) +and Birjand, some very thick carpets are made, +of excellent wear, but not so very artistic. In +the Birjand ones, brown camel-hair is a prevailing +colour, used too freely as a background, and +often taking away from the otherwise graceful +design. Sultanabad is probably the greatest +centre of carpet-making for export nearly<a name="Pg_1-318" id="Pg_1-318"></a> +every household possessing a loom. The firm +of Ziegler & Co. is the most extensive buyer and +exporter of these carpets. The Herat (Afghanistan) +carpets are also renowned and find their +way mostly to Europe.</p> + +<p>In Shiraz and Faristan we find the long +narrow rugs, as soft as velvet, and usually with +geometrical designs on them. Red, blue and +white are the prevalent colours.</p> + +<p>It would be too long to enumerate all the places +where good carpets are made; but Kermanshah, +Tabriz, Yezd,—in fact, nearly all big +centres, make carpets, each having special +characteristics of their own, although in general +appearance bearing to the <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'unitiated'">uninitiated</ins> more or less +similar semblance.</p> + +<p>The rugs made by the wandering tribes of +South-east and South-west Persia are quaint +and interesting. The Persian Beluch rugs are +somewhat minute and irregular in design, deep +in colour, with occasional discords of tones, but +they recommend themselves by being so strongly +made that it is almost impossible to wear them +out. They are generally small, being woven +inside their tents by the women.</p> + +<p>In Northern Persia Turcoman carpets—the +most adaptable of all for European houses—are +seldom to be found now, as they are generally +bought up for Russia. Dark red, warm and +extremely soft is the striking note in these +carpets, and the design is quite sedate.</p> + +<p>Carpets, except the cheaper ones, are seldom +sold in the bazaars nowadays. They are<a name="Pg_1-319" id="Pg_1-319"></a> +purchased on the looms. The best ones are +only made to order. There are, of course, a +few rug shops, and occasionally an old carpet finds +its way to a second-hand shop in the bazaar.</p> + +<p>Next in attraction to carpets come the +jewellers' shops. The goldsmiths' and silversmiths' +shops are not very numerous in the +bazaars, nor, when we come to examine the work +carefully, do they have anything really worth +buying. The work is on good gold or silver of +pure quality, but, with few exceptions, is generally +clumsy in design and heavily executed. +Figures are attempted, with most inartistic +results, on silver cases and boxes. The frontage +of a goldsmith's shop has no great variety +of articles. Bracelets, rings, necklaces, tea and +coffee pots, stands for coffee cups, and enamelled +pipe heads; a silver kalian or two, an old cigar-box +full of turquoises, and another full of other +precious stones—or, rather, imitations of precious +stones—a little tray with forgeries of ancient +coins; that is about all. Pearls and diamonds and +really valuable stones are usually concealed in neat +paper parcels carried on the person by the jeweller +and produced on the demand of customers.</p> + +<p>The swordmaker and gunsmith displays many +daggers and blades of local make and a great +number of obsolete Belgian and Russian revolvers; +also a good many Martini and Snider +rifles, which have found their way here from +India. Occasionally a good modern pistol or +gun is to be seen. Good rifles or revolvers find +a prompt sale in Persia at enormous figures.<a name="Pg_1-320" id="Pg_1-320"></a> +Nearly every man in the country carries a rifle. +Had I chosen, I could have sold my rifles and +revolvers twenty times over when in Persia, the +sums offered me for them being two or three +times what I had paid for them myself. But +my rifles had been very faithful companions to +me; one, a 256· Mannlicher, had been twice in +Tibet; the other, a 30·30 take-down Winchester, +had accompanied me through the +Chinese campaign, and I would accept no sum +for them.</p> + +<p>One is carried back a few score of years on +seeing the old rings for carrying gun-caps, and +also gunpowder flasks, and even old picturesque +flintlocks and matchlocks; but still, taking +things all round, it is rather interesting to note +that there is a considerable number of men in +Iran who are well-armed with serviceable cartridge +rifles, which they can use with accuracy. +Cartridge rifles are at a great premium, and +although their importation is not allowed, they +have found their way in considerable quantities +from all sides, but principally, they tell me, +from India, <i>via</i> the Gulf.</p> + +<p>One of the notes of the bazaar is that in +almost every shop one sees a cage or two with +humming-birds. In the morning and evening a +male member of the family takes the cage and +birds out for a walk in the air and sun, for the +dulness and darkness of the bazaar, although +considered sufficiently good for Persians themselves, +is not regarded conducive to sound health +and happiness for their pets.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-321" id="Pg_1-321"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXII"></a>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Grand Avenue of Isfahan—The Madrassah—Silver gates—The +dome—The Palace—The hall of forty columns—Ornamentations—The +picture hall—Interesting paintings—Their +artistic merit—Nasr-ed-din Shah's portrait—The +ceiling—The quivering minarets.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> grand Avenue of Isfahan, much worn +and out of repair, and having several lines of +trees along its entire length of half a mile or so +down to the river, is one of the sights of the +ancient capital of Persia.</p> + +<p>About half-way down the Avenue the famous +Madrassah is to be found. It has a massive, +handsome silver gate, in a somewhat dilapidated +condition at present, and showing evident marks +of thieving enterprise. At the entrance stand +fluted, tiled columns, with alabaster bases, in the +shape of vases some ten feet in height, while a +frieze of beautiful blue tiles with inscriptions +from the Koran, and other ornamentations, are to +be admired, even in their mutilated condition, +on tiles now sadly tumbling down.</p> + +<p>So much for the exterior. Inside, the place +bears ample testimony to former grandeur and +splendour, but at present hopeless decay is +rampant here as everywhere else in Persia.<a name="Pg_1-322" id="Pg_1-322"></a> +The Madrassah is attributed to Shah Sultan +Hussein, the founder of the Shrine at Kum, and +some magnificent bits of this great work yet +remain. One can gaze at the beautiful dome, of +a superb delicate greenish tint, surmounted by a +huge knob supposed to be of solid gold, and at +the two most delightful minarets, full of grace in +their lines and delicately refined in colour, with +lattice work at their summit.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-40.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-40_th.jpg" alt="Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan." title="Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan.</p> + +<p>In the courts and gardens are some fine +old trees, amid a lot of uncouth vegetation, +while grass sprouts out between the slabs of +stone on the paths and wherever it should not +be; the walls all round, however, are magnificent, +being built of large green tiles with ornamentations +of graceful curves and the favourite leaf +pattern. In other places white ornamentations, +principally curves and yellow circles, are to be +noticed on dark blue tiles. In some of the +courts very handsome tiles with flower patterns +are still in good preservation.</p> + +<p>There are in the college 160 rooms for +students to board and lodge. The buildings +have two storeys and nearly all have tiled fronts, +less elaborate than the minarets and dome, but +quite pretty, with quaint white verandahs. +When I visited the place there were only some +fifty students, of all ages, from children to old +men. Much time is devoted by them to +theological studies and some smattering of +geography and history.</p> + +<p>One cannot leave Isfahan without visiting the +old Palace.<a name="Pg_1-323" id="Pg_1-323"></a></p> + +<p>In a garden formerly beautiful but semi-barren +and untidy now, on a pavement of slabs which +are no longer on the level with one another, +stands the Palace of the Twenty Columns, called +of "the forty columns," probably because the +twenty existing ones are reflected as in a mirror +in the long rectangular tank of water extending +between this palace and the present dwelling of +H. E. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan. +Distance lends much enchantment to everything +in Persia, and such is the case even in this +palace, probably the most tawdrily gorgeous +structure in north-west Persia.</p> + +<p>The Palace is divided into two sections, the +open throne hall and the picture hall behind it. +The twenty octagonal columns of the open-air +hall were once inlaid with Venetian mirrors, and +still display bases of four grinning lions carved +in stone. But, on getting near them, one finds +that the bases are chipped off and damaged, the +glass almost all gone, and the foundation of the +columns only remains, painted dark-red. The +lower portion of the column, for some three feet, +is ornamented with painted flowers, red in blue +vases. The floor under the colonnade is paved +with bricks, and there is a raised platform for +the throne, reached by four stone steps.</p> + +<p>There is a frieze here of graceful although +conventional floral decoration with gold leaves. +In the wall are two windows giving light to two +now empty rooms. The end central receptacle +or niche is gaudily ornamented with Venetian +looking-glasses cut in small triangles, and it has<a name="Pg_1-324" id="Pg_1-324"></a> +a pretty ceiling with artichoke-leaf pattern +capitals in an upward crescendo of triangles.</p> + +<p>The ceiling above the upper platform is made +entirely of mirrors with adornments in blue and +gold and glass, representing the sky, the sun, +and golden lions. Smaller suns also appear in the +ornamentation of the frieze. The ceiling above +the colonnade and the beams between the +columns are richly ornamented in blue, grey, +red, and gold. This ceiling is divided into +fifteen rectangles, the central panel having a +geometrical pattern of considerable beauty, in +which, as indeed throughout, the figure of the +sun is prominent.</p> + +<p>The inner hall must have been a magnificent +room in its more flourishing days. It is now +used as a storeroom for banners, furniture, swords, +and spears, piled everywhere on the floor and +against the walls. One cannot see very well +what the lower portion of the walls is like, +owing to the quantity of things amassed all +round, and so covered with dust as not to invite +removal or even touch; but there seems to be +a frieze nine feet high with elaborate blue vases +on which the artist called into life gold flowers +and graceful leaves.</p> + +<p>The large paintings are of considerable interest +apart from their historical value. In the +centre, facing the entrance door, we detect Nadir +Shah, the Napoleon of Persia, the leader of +80,000 men through Khorassan, Sistan, Kandahar +and Cabul. He is said to have crossed from +Afghanistan through the Khyber Pass to<a name="Pg_1-325" id="Pg_1-325"></a> +Peshawar, and from there to Delhi, where his +presence led to a scene of loot and carnage. But +to him was certainly due the extension of the +Persian boundary to the Indus towards the East +and to the Oxus on the North. In the picture +he is represented on horseback with a great +following of elephants and turbaned figures.</p> + +<p>To the right we have a fight, in which Shah +Ismail, who became Shah of Persia in 1499, is +the hero, and a crowd of Bokhara warriors and +Afghans the secondary figures. Evidently the +painting is to commemorate the great successes +obtained by Ismail in Khorassan, Samarkand and +Tashkend.</p> + +<p>The third is a more peaceful scene—a Bokhara +dancing girl performing before Shah Tamasp, +eldest of four sons of Ismail and successor to his +throne. The Shah is represented entertaining +the Indian Emperor Humaiyun in 1543. The +lower portion of this picture is in good preservation, +but the upper part has been patched up +with hideous ornamentations of birds and flowers +on red ground.</p> + +<p>Over the door Shah Ismail, wearing a white +turban, is represented riding a white horse and +carrying a good supply of arrows. The Shah +is in the act of killing a foe, and the painting +probably represents one of his heroic deeds at the +battle of Khoi against Salim.</p> + +<p>To the right of the door there is a picture of +dancing and feasting, with Shah Abbas offering +drink in sign of friendship to Abdul Mohmek +Khan Osbek.<a name="Pg_1-326" id="Pg_1-326"></a></p> + +<p>Finally, to the left of the front door we have +pictorially the most pleasing of the whole series, +another scene of feasting, with the youthful +figure of Shah Abbas II. (died 1668), a man of +great pluck, but unfortunately given to drunkenness +and licentious living, which developed brutal +qualities in him. It was he who blinded many of +his relations by placing red-hot irons in front of +their eyes. Considering this too lenient a punishment +he ordered their eyes to be extracted +altogether. We see him now, sitting upon his +knees, garbed in a red tunic and turban. In +the foreground a most graceful dancing-girl, in +red and green robes, with a peculiar waistband, +and flying locks of hair. The artist has very +faithfully depicted the voluptuous twist of her +waist, much appreciated by Persians in dancing, +and he has also managed to infuse considerable +character into the musicians, the guitar man +and the followers of the Shah to the left of the +picture, as one looks at it, and the tambourine +figure to the right. Fruit and other refreshments +lie in profusion in vessels on the floor, elaborately +painted. This picture is rectangular, and is +probably not only the most artistic but the best +preserved of the lot.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-41.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-41_th.jpg" alt="One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs." title="One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-42.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-42_th.jpg" alt="The Hall of the Forty Columns, Isfahan." title="The Hall of the Forty Columns, Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The "Hall of the Forty Columns," Isfahan.</p> + +<p>Great labour and patience in working out +details have been the aim of the artists of all +these pictures, rather than true effects of nature, +and the faces, hands, and poses are, of course, as +in most Persian paintings, conventionalized and +absolutely regardless of proportion, perspective, +fore-shortening or atmospherical influence or<a name="Pg_1-327" id="Pg_1-327"></a> +action—generally called aerial perspective. The +objection, common in nearly all countries, +England included, to shadows on the faces is +intensified a thousand-fold in Persian paintings, +and handicaps the artist to no mean degree in +his attempts to give relief to his figures. Moreover, +the manipulation and concentration of +light, and the art of composing a picture are not +understood in old Persian paintings, and the +result is that it is most difficult to see a picture +as an <i>ensemble</i>. The eye roams all over the +painting, attracted here by a patch of brilliant +yellow, there by another equally vivacious red, +here by some bright detail, there by something +else; and like so many ghosts in a haunted room +peep out the huge, black, almond-shaped eyes, +black-bearded heads, all over the picture, standing +like prominent patches out of the plane they are +painted on.</p> + +<p>The pictures are, nevertheless, extremely interesting, +and from a Persian's standpoint magnificently +painted. Such is not the case with +the modern and shocking portrait of Nasr-ed-din +Shah, painted in the best oil colours in +European style, his Majesty wearing a gaudy +uniform with great wealth of gold and diamonds. +This would be a bad painting anywhere in Persia +or Europe.</p> + +<p>The ceiling of this hall is really superb. It +has three domes, the centre one more lofty than +the two side ones. The higher dome is gilt, +and is most gracefully ornamented with a refined +leaf pattern and twelve gold stars, while the<a name="Pg_1-328" id="Pg_1-328"></a> +other two cupolas are blue with a similar leaf +ornamentation in gold. There is much quaint +irregularity in the geometrical design of the +corners, shaped like a kite of prettily-arranged +gold, blue and green, while other corners are +red and light blue, with the sides of green +and gold of most delicate tones. These are +quite a violent contrast to the extravagant flaming +red patches directly over the paintings.</p> + +<p>The hall is lighted by three windows at each +end near the lower arch of the side domes, and +three further double windows immediately under +them. There is one main entrance and three +exits (one large and two small) towards the +throne colonnade.</p> + +<p>Through narrow lanes, along ditches of dirty +water, or between high mud walls, one comes +six miles to the west of Isfahan to one of the +most curious sights of Persia,—the quivering +minarets above the shrine and tomb of a saint. +These towers, according to Persians, are at least +eight centuries old.</p> + +<p>Enclosed in a rectangular wall is the high +sacred domed tomb, and on either side of the +pointed arch of the Mesjid rise towards the sky +the two column-like minarets, with quadrangular +bases. A spiral staircase inside each minaret, +just wide enough to let a man through, conveys +one to the top, wherein four small windows are +to be found. By seizing the wall at one of the +apertures and shaking it violently an unpleasant +oscillation can be started, and continues of its +own accord, the minaret diverging from the<a name="Pg_1-329" id="Pg_1-329"></a> +perpendicular as much as two inches on either +side. Presently the second minaret begins to +vibrate also in uniformity with the first, and the +vibration can be felt along the front roof-platform +between the two minarets, but not in other +parts of the structure. A large crack by the +side of one of the minarets which is said to +have existed from time immemorial foretells +that some day or other minarets and front wall +will come down, but it certainly speaks well for +the elasticity of minarets of 800 years ago that +they have stood up quivering so long.</p> + +<p>The minarets are not very high, some thirty-five +feet above the roof of the Mesjid, or about +seventy-five feet from the ground. The whole +structure, of bricks and mud, is—barring the +dangerous crack—still in good preservation. +On the outside, the minarets are tiled in a graceful, +geometrical transverse pattern of dark and +light blue.</p> + +<p>A visit to the sacred shrine of the quivering +minarets has miraculous powers—say the Persians—of +curing all diseases or protecting one against +them, hence the pilgrimage of a great number +of natives afflicted with all sorts of complaints. +Beggars in swarms are at the entrance waiting, +like hungry mosquitoes, to pounce upon the +casual visitor or customary pleasure-seeker of +Isfahan, for whom this spot is a favourite resort.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-330" id="Pg_1-330"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Isfahan the commercial heart of Persia—Dangers of maps in +argument—Bandar Abbas—The possibility of a Russian +railway to Bandar Abbas—Bandar Abbas as a harbour—The +caravan road to Bandar Abbas—Rates of transport—Trade—British +and Russian influence—Shipping—A +Russian line of steamers—Customs under Belgian officials—Lingah—Its +exports and imports.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Isfahan</span> is for England the most important +city, politically and commercially, in Western +Persia. It is the central point from which roads +radiate to all parts of the Shah's Empire. It is +the commercial heart, as it were, of Persia, and +the future preponderance of Russian or British +influence in Isfahan will settle the balance in +favour of one or the other of the two countries +and the eventual preponderance in the whole of +Western Iran.</p> + +<p>Khorassan and Sistan stand on quite a different +footing, being severed from the West by the great +Salt Desert, and must be set apart for the moment +and dealt with specially.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-43.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-43_th.jpg" alt="The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan." title="The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan.</p> + +<p>A reliable map ought to be consulted in order +to understand the question properly, but it should +be remembered that it is ever dangerous to base +arguments on maps alone in discussing either<a name="Pg_1-331" id="Pg_1-331"></a> +political or commercial matters. Worse still is +the case when astoundingly incorrect maps such +as are generally manufactured in England are in +the hands of people unfamiliar with the real +topography and resources of a country.</p> + +<p>To those who have travelled it is quite extraordinary +what an appalling mass of nonsensical +rubbish can be supplied to the public by politicians, +by newspaper penny-a-liners, and by home +royal geographo-parasites at large, who base their +arguments on such unsteady foundation. It is +quite sufficient for some people to open an atlas +and place their fingers on a surface of cobalt blue +paint in order to select strategical harbours, point +out roads upon which foreign armies can invade +India, trade routes which ought to be adopted in +preference to others, and so on, regardless of sea-depth, +currents, winds, shelter, and climatic conditions. +In the case of roads for invading armies, +such small trifles as hundreds of miles of desert, +impassable mountain ranges, lack of water, and +no fuel, are never considered! These are only +small trifles that do not signify—as they are not +marked on the maps—the special fancy of the +cartographer for larger or smaller type in the +nomenclature making cities and villages more or +less important to the student, or the excess of ink +upon one river course rather than another, +according to the cartographer's humour, making +that river quite navigable, notwithstanding that +in reality there may not be a river nor a city nor +village at all. We have flaming examples of this +in our Government maps of Persia.<a name="Pg_1-332" id="Pg_1-332"></a></p> + +<p>I myself have had an amusing controversy in +some of the London leading papers with no less +a person than the Secretary of a prominent +Geographical Society, who assured the public +that certain well-known peaks did not exist +because he could not find them (they happened +to be there all the same) on his map!</p> + +<p>Such other trifles as the connecting of lakes by +imaginary rivers to maintain the reputation of a +scientific impostor, or the building of accurate +maps (<i>sic</i>) from badly-taken photographs—the +direction of which was not even recorded by the +distinguished photographers—are frauds too +commonly perpetrated on the innocent public by +certain so-called scientific societies, to be here +referred to. Although these frauds are treated +lightly, the harm they do to those who take them +seriously and to the public at large, who are +always ready blindly to follow anybody with +sufficient bounce, is enormous.</p> + +<p>Without going into minor details, let us take +the burning question of the fast-expanding Russian +influence in the south of Persia. We are +assured that Russia wishes an outlet in the +Persian Gulf, and suspicions are strong that her +eye is set on Bandar Abbas. On the map it +certainly appears a most heavenly spot for a harbour, +and we hear from scribblers that it can be +made into a strong naval base and turned into a +formidable position. The trade from Meshed +and Khorassan and Teheran, Isfahan, Yezd, and +Kerman is with equal theoretical facility switched +on to this place. Even allowing that Russia<a name="Pg_1-333" id="Pg_1-333"></a> +should obtain a concession of this place—a most +unlikely thing to be asked for or conceded while +Persia remains an independent country—matters +would not be as simple for Russia as the man in +the street takes them to be.</p> + +<p>It would first of all be necessary to construct +a railway connecting the Trans-Caspian line +with Bandar Abbas, a matter of enormous +expense and difficulty, and likely enough never +to be a profitable financial enterprise. The +political importance is dubious. A long railway +line unguarded in a foreign country could but be +of little practical value. It must be remembered +that Persia is a very thinly populated country, +with vast tracts of land, such as the Salt Desert, +almost absolutely uninhabited, and where the +construction of such a railway would involve +serious difficulties, owing to the lack of water +for several months of the year, intense heat, +shifting sands, and in some parts sudden inundations +during the short rainy season.</p> + +<p>Moreover, Bandar Abbas itself, although +ideally situated on the maps, is far from being an +ideal harbour. The water is shallow, and there +is no safe shelter; the heat unbearable and unhealthy. +At enormous expense, of course, this +spot, like almost any other spot on any coast, +could be turned into a fair artificial harbour. The +native town itself—if it can be honoured with +such a name—consists of a few miserable mud +houses, with streets in which one sinks in filth +and mud. The inhabitants are the most miserable +and worst ruffians in Persia, together with some<a name="Pg_1-334" id="Pg_1-334"></a> +Hindoos. There is a European community of +less than half-a-dozen souls.</p> + +<p>The <i>British India</i> and other coasting steamers +touch here, and therefore this has been made +the starting-point for caravans to Kerman and +Yezd and Sistan <i>via</i> Bam. But for Isfahan and +Teheran the more direct and shorter route <i>via</i> +Bushire is selected. The caravan road from +Bandar Abbas to Kerman and Yezd is extremely +bad and unsafe. Several times of late the track +has been blocked, and caravans robbed. During +1900, and since that date, the risk of travelling +on the road seems to have increased, and as it is +useless for Persians to try and obtain protection +or compensation from their own Government +the traffic not only has been diverted when +possible to other routes, principally Bushire, but +the rates for transport of goods inland had +at one time become almost prohibitive. In the +summer of 1900, it cost 18 tomans (about £3 +9<i>s.</i>) to convey 900 lbs. weight as far as Yezd, +but in the autumn the charges rose to 56 tomans +(about £10 13<i>s.</i>) or more than three times as +much for the same weight of goods. Eventually +the rates were brought down to 22 tomans, but +only for a short time, after which they fluctuated +again up to 28 tomans. It was with the greatest +difficulty that loading camels could be obtained +at all, owing to the deficiency of exports, and +this partly accounted for the extortionate prices +demanded. An English gentleman whom I +met in Kerman told me that it was only at great +expense and trouble that he was able to procure<a name="Pg_1-335" id="Pg_1-335"></a> +camels to proceed from Bandar Abbas to Kerman, +and even then he had to leave all his luggage +behind to follow when other animals could +be obtained.</p> + +<p>According to statistics furnished by the British +Vice-Consul, the exports of 1900 were half +those of 1899, the exact figures being £202,232 +for 1899; £102,671 for 1900. Opium, which +had had the lead by far in previous years, fell +from £48,367 to £4,440. Raw cotton, however, +not only held its own but rose to a value +of £18,692 from £6,159 the previous year. In +the years 1888, 1889, 1890, and 1891 the +exports of raw cotton were abnormal, and rose +to about £35,000 in 1890, the highest record +during the decade from 1888 to 1897.</p> + +<p>Large quantities of henna and opium are also +exported from this spot, as it is the principal +outlet of the Kerman and Yezd districts, but +the trade may be said to be almost entirely in +British hands at present, and Russian influence +so far is infinitesimal.</p> + +<p>We find that, next to opium, fruit and +vegetables, especially dates, constitute a large part +of the export, then wool, drugs and spices, salt, +carpets and woollen fabrics, piece goods, silk +(woven), seeds, skins and tanned leather, wheat +and cereals, and cotton raw and manufactured. +Perfumery—rose-water—was largely exported +from 1891 to 1896. The exportation of tobacco +seems to decrease, although it is now beginning +to look up again a little. Dyes and colouring +substances are also exported.<a name="Pg_1-336" id="Pg_1-336"></a></p> + +<p>The value of imports is very nearly double +that of the exports. Cotton goods have the +lead by a long way, then come tea, and piece +goods, loaf-sugar, powdered sugar, indigo, metals, +wheat and cereals, spices, drugs, wool and woollen +fabrics, jute fabrics, cheap cutlery, coffee, +tobacco, mules, horses, donkeys, etc., in the +succession enumerated.</p> + +<p>It is pleasant to find that the shipping increases +yearly at Bandar Abbas, and that, second +only to Persian vessels, the number of British +sailing vessels entering Bandar Abbas in 1900 +was nearly double (48) of the previous year (28). +Steamers were in the proportion of 101 to 64. +Although in number of sailing vessels the +Persians have the priority, because of the great +number of small crafts, the total tonnage of the +Persian vessels was 5,320 tons against 75,440 +tons in 1899, and 139,164 tons in 1900 British.</p> + +<p>Turkish steamers occasionally ply to Bandar +Abbas and Muscat and also Arab small sailing +crafts.</p> + +<p>It is rather curious to note that in 1899 the +imports into Bandar Abbas came entirely from +India, Great Britain and France, and in a small +measure from Muscat, Zanzibar, the Arab Coast, +Bahrain and Persian ports, whereas the following +year, 1900, the imports from India fell to less +than half their previous value, from £435,261 +to £204,306, and from the United Kingdom +there was a diminution from £86,197 to £69,597; +whereas France doubled hers in 1900 and +other countries entered into competition. The<a name="Pg_1-337" id="Pg_1-337"></a> +Chinese Empire, curiously enough, was the +strongest, to the value of £18,419, presumably +with teas, and Austria-Hungary £10,509. Germany +and Turkey imported to the value of +some £2,174 and £2,147 respectively. Belgium +£2,254, Java £7,819, Mauritius £3,564, Muscat +£692, the Canaries £637, America £600, and +Arabia £494. Japan contributed to the amount +of £305, Sweden £273, Italy £82, and Switzerland +the modest sum of £8.</p> + +<p>A most significant point is that Russia, with +all her alleged aims and designs, only contributed +to the small amount of £572. Nothing was +exported from Bandar Abbas to Russia. It +would appear from this that at least commercially +Russia's position at Bandar Abbas was not much +to be feared as late as 1900. Since then a Russian +line of steamers has been established from the +Black Sea to the Persian Gulf ports, but I have +no accurate statistics at hand. It is said not to +be a financial success.</p> + +<p>The establishment of Customs under Belgian +officials in 1900 caused some trouble at first, and +may have been responsible for a portion of the +falling-off in trade, but it is now agreed by +everybody that the system is carried on in a fair +and honest manner, preferable to the extortionate +fashion employed by the former speculators who +farmed out the Customs.</p> + +<p>I rather doubt whether Russia's aim is even +directed towards Lingah, to the south-west of +Bandar Abbas, as has been supposed by others. +Although this port would afford a deeper and<a name="Pg_1-338" id="Pg_1-338"></a> +better anchorage and a breakwater, it has the +same difficulties of approach by land from Russia +as Bandar Abbas—in fact, greater ones, being +further south.</p> + +<p>Lingah is a more prosperous port than Bandar +Abbas, its exports being roughly two-thirds +larger than those of Bandar Abbas, and its imports +one-third in excess. In value the export and +import of pearls form the chief item, next come +wheat and cotton. Very little tea is disembarked +at Lingah, but dates and firearms were landed in +considerable quantities, especially in 1897. +Coffee and tobacco were more in demand here +than at Bandar Abbas, and metals were largely +imported. White sea-shells found their way in +huge quantities to Beluchistan, where the women +use them for decorating their persons. Bangles +and necklaces are made with them, and neck-bands +for the camels, horses and mules, as well +as ornamentations on the saddle bags. With +these two exceptions the imports and exports of +Lingah are made up of larger quantities of +articles similar to those brought to and from +Bandar Abbas.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-339" id="Pg_1-339"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Mahommerah—Where Russia's aims are directed—Advantages +of Mahommerah—The navigation of the Karun River—Traffic—Rates +on the Ahwaz-Isfahan track—The +Government's attitude—Wheat—Russian influence—Backhtiari +Chiefs—Up and down river trade—Gum—Cotton +goods—Sugar—Caravan route—Steamers—Disadvantages +of a policy of drift—Russian enterprise.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">So</span> much for Bandar Abbas and Lingah. I +will not touch on Bushire, too well known to +English people, but Mahommerah may have a +special interest to us, and also to Russia. It is +rather curious to note that it has never struck the +British politician nor the newspaper writer that +Russia's aims, based usually on sound and +practical knowledge, might be focussed on this +port, which occupies the most favourable position +in the Persian Gulf for Russia's purposes. Even +strategically it is certainly as good as Bandar +Abbas, while commercially its advantages over +the latter port are a thousandfold greater.</p> + +<p>These advantages are a navigable river, through +fertile country, instead of an almost impassable, +waterless desert, and a distance as the crow flies +from Russian territory to Mahommerah one-third +shorter than from Bandar Abbas. A<a name="Pg_1-340" id="Pg_1-340"></a> +railway through the most populated and richest +part of Persia could easily be constructed to +Ahwaz. The climate is healthy though warm.</p> + +<p>Another most curious fact which seems almost +incredible is that the British Government, through +ignorance or otherwise, by a policy of drift may +probably be the cause of helping Russia to reap +the benefit of British enterprise on the Karun +River, in the development of which a considerable +amount of British capital has already been +sunk. The importance, political and commercial, +of continuing the navigation of the Karun River +until it does become a financial success—which +it is bound to be as soon as the country all round +it is fully developed—is too obvious for me to +write at length upon it, but it cannot be expected +that a private company should bear the burden +and loss entirely for the good of the mother +country without any assistance from the home +Government.</p> + +<p>The British firm, who run the steamers, with +much insight and praiseworthy enterprise improved +the existing caravan track from Isfahan +to Ahwaz on the Karun River, the point up to +which the river is navigable by steamers not +drawing more than four feet. They built two +fine suspension bridges, one over the Karun at +Godar-i-Balutak and the other, the Pul-Amarat +(or Built-bridge) constructed on the side of an +ancient masonry bridge. The track has thus +been rendered very easy and every assistance was +offered to caravans, while a regular service of +river steamers plied from Mahommerah to<a name="Pg_1-341" id="Pg_1-341"></a> +Ahwaz, to relieve the traffic by water. The +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> <i>Blosse Lynch</i>, 250 tons, was sent up at first, +but was too large, so the <span class="smcap">s.s.</span> <i>Malamir</i>, 120 tons, +was specially built for the Karun navigation.</p> + +<p>Matters were very prosperous at first, until +many obstacles came in the way. The road has +been open to traffic some three years. The first +year traffic was healthy and strong, but the second +year, owing to famine in Arabistan, the traffic +suddenly dropped and nothing would induce +muleteers to travel by that route. Although +they were offered as much as 100 (£2) to 110 +krans (£2 4<i>s.</i>) per load from Isfahan to Ahwaz, +a distance of 17 stages—277 miles—they preferred +to take 70 krans (£1 9<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i>) to Bushire, a +journey of about 30 stages, over a distance of 510 +miles.</p> + +<p>The caravan men in Persia are curious people +to deal with, and it takes a very long time +to imbue their minds with new ideas. In the +case of the Ahwaz road it was partly conservatism +and fear instigated by the Mullahs that +prevented their taking loads to the steamers.</p> + +<p>It was fully expected that the route could not +pay its way for at least five years from its inauguration, +and the British Government—which +at that time seemed to understand the value of +the undertaking—agreed to give in equal shares +with the Government of India a collective +guarantee against losses up to £3,000 for the +first two years, then of £2,000 for five years. +For some unaccountable reason the Government +of India, which the scheme mostly concerned,<a name="Pg_1-342" id="Pg_1-342"></a> +dropped out, and the guarantee was further +reduced to £1,000 payable by the home +Government only. As a result of this the +steamers have been run since at a considerable +loss, and had it not been for the patriotism of +Lynch Brothers, and the prospects to which they +still cling of a successful issue, the navigation of +the Karun would have already come to an untimely +end.</p> + +<p>The principal article of export of any +importance was wheat, grown in enormous +quantities in the fertile plains of Arabistan; and +were its export legal, the export of grain would +be infinitely greater than the whole of the present +imports. But the Persian Government unfortunately +prohibited the export of grain from +Persia, nominally to allay and prevent famine in +the country, in fact to enrich local governors by +permitting illicit export. Consequently, the +peasants could not sell their produce in the +open market and had to sell it, accepting what +they could get from speculators at about half the +actual value. This led to the discontinuance +of the cultivation of wheat. When for three +years the exportation of grain was permitted, +the acreage under cultivation was enormous and +yielded very large returns, but as soon as the +prohibition was set in force it dwindled year by +year until it became approximately the fifth part +of what it originally was. On the top of all this +a severe drought occurred and a famine resulted.</p> + +<p>It seems very likely that the British Government +may now fall out also and stop the meagre<a name="Pg_1-343" id="Pg_1-343"></a> +guarantee of £1,000. This may have disastrous +results, for it cannot be expected that a +private firm will continue the navigation of the +Karun at a great loss. This is, in a few words, +what it may lead to. Should the British +abandon the work already done, Russia will step +in—she has had her eye upon the Karun more +than upon any other spot in Persia—and reap +the benefit of the money and labour that has +been spent by us. In the plain of Arabistan +Russian influence is not yet very far advanced, +but among the Backhtiaris it is spreading fast. +Intrigue is rampant. The Russian agents endeavour +to get the tribesmen into disgrace with +the Government and they succeed to a great +extent in their aim.</p> + +<p>Isphandiar Khan, who has the title of Sirdar +Assad, is the head chief of the Backhtiaris, and +with his cousin Sephadar keeps going the various +branches of the family, but serious family +squabbles are very frequent and may eventually +cause division. The two above named men +manage to keep all together except Hadji-Riza +Kuli Khan, who is an opposing factor. He is +an uncle of Isphandiar Khan, and his rancour +arises from having been ousted from the chieftainship. +He is said to have fallen very badly +under Russian influence, and instigated his +followers to rebellion, the cause being, however, +put down not to family squabbles and jealousy—the +true causes—but to disapproval of the new +road and the influence exercised by it upon the +Backhtiari country.<a name="Pg_1-344" id="Pg_1-344"></a></p> + +<p>Only about one-fifth of foreign imports into +Mahommerah find their way up the Karun +River. It is certainly to be regretted that no +articles direct from the United Kingdom are +forced up the river. The trade with India in +1900 only amounted to some £43,062 against +£30,149 the previous year, France, Turkey, and +Egypt being the only other importers. The +total imports into Mahommerah for transhipment +to Karun ports amounted to £59,194 in +1900, and showed a considerable increase on +1899.</p> + +<p>Piece goods find their way up the river in +considerable quantities. Then loaf-sugar and +soft sugar are the principal articles of import; +dates, iron, and treacle come next; while various +metals, tea and matches come last.</p> + +<p>In regard to local commerce the river trade +for 1900 was £100,437, showing an increase of +£37,449 upon the trade of 1899. This ought +to be regarded as satisfactory, considering the +slowness of Oriental races in moving from their +old grooves.</p> + +<p>The down river trade falls very short of the +up river commerce, and consists mostly of wheat, +oil seeds, opium, wool, gum, flour, beans, cotton, +rice, tobacco, piece goods, glue. In 1900 the +decrease in the carriage of wheat was enormous, +and also the trade in oil seeds. Although gum +was carried down stream in much larger quantities, +owing to the yield being unusually abundant, +the price obtained was very poor, owing +to the falling London market. Gum Tragacanth<a name="Pg_1-345" id="Pg_1-345"></a> +was conveyed principally by the Isfahan-Ahwaz +route. Notwithstanding all this there was an +increase of £17,000 in 1900 over the trade of +1899, which shows that the route is nevertheless +progressing and is worth cultivating.</p> + +<p>Cotton goods, which are reimported from +India mostly by Parsee and Jewish firms, +originally come from Manchester and are in +great demand. They consist of grey shirtings, +prints (soft finish), lappets, imitation Turkey red, +Tanjibs and jaconets. Marseilles beetroot sugar +is holding its own against other cheaper sugars +imported lately and finds its way to Isfahan by +the Ahwaz road.</p> + +<p>Caravans usually employ twenty days on the +Ahwaz-Isfahan journey, but the distance can +easily be covered in fifteen days and even less. +A fortnightly steamer is run by the Euphratis +and Tigris Steam Navigation Company to +Ahwaz.</p> + +<p>Mahommerah exports chiefly to India, then +to Turkey, the United Kingdom, Hong Kong, +the Persian Gulf ports, Egypt and France. In +1900 the exports were to the value of £115,359. +The imports were similar to those of Bandar +Abbas, viz.:—cotton goods, sugar, coffee, silk, +iron, tea, manufactured metal, thread, spices, +etc. They amounted to an aggregate sum of +£281,570 in 1900, against £202,492 in +1899.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> +<p><a name="Pg_1-346" id="Pg_1-346"></a></p> +<p>If I have gone into details it is to show the +mistake made by the British Government in +letting such a valuable position, of absolute +vital importance to our interest, drift slowly but +surely into Russian hands. Russia's aims in the +Gulf are at present concentrated on the Karun +River; our movements are closely watched, and +nothing could be more probable than, that if we +abandon the Karun, Russia will at once fill our +place and turn the whole business into a +formidable success.</p> + +<p>The Russian Government have now granted a +subsidy of £5,000 per round voyage to the +Russian Steam Navigation to run three steamers +a year from Odessa to Bussorah, touching at all +the principal ports of the Persian Gulf. The +<span class="smcap">s.s.</span> <i>Kornilof</i> made two voyages in 1901, +arriving in Bussorah in April and November. +On her first voyage she landed most of her cargo +in Bushire, and only conveyed 8,000 cases of +petroleum and a quantity of wood for date boxes; +but on her second journey 16,500 cases of petroleum +were landed at Bussorah and a further +supply of wood, besides a great number of +samples of Russian products, such as flour, sugar +and matches. On the second return journey the +<i>Kornilof</i> took back to Odessa freight for two +thousand pounds from Bussorah, principally +dates, a cargo which had been previously carried +by British steamers to Port Said and then transhipped +for the Black Sea.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the Russian boats excited +considerable interest among the natives and<a name="Pg_1-347" id="Pg_1-347"></a> +merchants, both British and indigenous. Comments +are superfluous on the grant given by the +Russian Government to further Russian trade, +and the wavering attitude of the British Government +in safeguarding interests already acquired.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See Diplomatic and Consular Reports, Trade of Persian +Gulf for the year 1900. Foreign Office. H.M. Stationery +Office.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-348" id="Pg_1-348"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXV"></a>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The British Consul-General in Isfahan—Russia's influence in +Southern Persia—H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan—Departure for +Yezd—Pigeon towers—A Persian telegraph line—Ghiavaz—Characteristics +of the scenery—A village in ruins—Types—Saigsi—Mud +dunes—Mirage—A reservoir—Kanats—Scarcity +of fodder.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">I only</span> halted a few days in Isfahan, during +which time I was the guest of Mr. Preece, the +British Consul-General. Mr. Preece's hospitality +and popularity are proverbial among Europeans +and natives all over Persia. A step in the +right direction was taken by the British Government +in making a Consulate-General in Isfahan, +and another good step was that of furnishing +the Consulate with a guard of mounted Indian +soldiers. Prestige and outward show go much +together in Persia, and no matter to what +extent one's private feelings may rebel at the +idea, we must make a display, I suppose.</p> + +<p>We have in Mr. Preece a very able and +intellectual officer; a man who understands the +Persians thoroughly, and a gentleman of uncommon +tact and kindliness. His artistic taste +has served him well, so that the Consulate and +grounds have been rendered most comfortable<a name="Pg_1-349" id="Pg_1-349"></a> +and delightful, and the collections of carpets and +silver which he has made during his many years' +residence in Persia are very interesting.</p> + +<p>It is true that Russian influence is spreading +fast towards the south, and that the establishment +of a Russian Consulate in Isfahan, with +its guard of Cossacks, has made considerable +impression on the population, but no doubt +Mr. Preece will be able to maintain British +prestige high, if the Government at home +show grit and enable him to do so.</p> + +<p>It is most important, I think, to come to +some sound conclusion on the policy to be +followed towards Russia in Persia, either to +check her advance immediately and firmly, or +to come to some satisfactory agreement with +her so that her interests and ours may not +altogether clash; but it cannot be impressed +too often upon our minds that our present +policy of drift and wavering is most disastrous +to our interests. We have lost Northern Persia. +Southern Persia will soon slip from our grip +unless we pull up soon and open our eyes wide +to what is happening.</p> + +<p>We place too much reliance on the fact that +Zil-es-Sultan, the Shah's brother and now +Governor of Isfahan, was once extremely pro-British. +We have a way of getting ideas into +our heads and nothing will drive them out +again, but we forget that things and people +change in Persia as everywhere else, and what +was accurate fifteen years ago may not be so +now. Also it must be remembered that Zil-es-<a name="Pg_1-350" id="Pg_1-350"></a>Sultan, +although in high power, does not +occupy the same high position politically as +before the late Shah's death. He and his +family are kept under strict control of the Shah, +and any pro-English ideas which they may still +have are discouraged, if not promptly eradicated. +His Highness's sons have been forbidden to be +educated in Europe or to travel abroad, although +a visit to Russia only might be allowed. Beyond +the secondary power of a High Governor, Zil-es-Sultan +has no other influence, and has to conform +to superior orders. He is now no longer +very young, and his popularity, although still +very great, cannot be said to be on the increase.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-44.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-44_th.jpg" alt="H. R. H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan." title="H. R. H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">H. R. H. Zil-es-Sultan</span>, Governor of Isfahan.</p> + +<p>While in Isfahan I had an audience of his +Highness. One could not help being struck at +first glance by the powerful countenance of the +Prince, and the mixture of pride and worry +plainly depicted on his face. He spoke very +intelligently but was most guarded in his speech. +One of his sons Baharam Mirza—a wonderfully +clever young man, who spoke French and +English fluently although he had never been +out of Persia—interpreted. I was much impressed +by the kindliness of the Zil-es-Sultan +towards his children, and in return by the intense +respect, almost fear, of these towards their +father. After a pleasant visit and the usual compliments +and refreshments, coffee was brought, +the polite signal that the audience should come +to a close. The Prince accompanied the Consul +and myself to the door of the room—a most +unusual compliment.<a name="Pg_1-351" id="Pg_1-351"></a></p> + +<p>There were many soldiers, and servants and +attendants with silver-topped maces who escorted +us out of the grounds, where we found the +Consular guard again, and returned to the +Consulate.</p> + +<p>Two days later I departed for Yezd. There +is no high road between the two cities; only a +mere track. No postal service and relays of +horses are stationed on the track, but, by giving +notice some days previous to one's departure, +horses can be sent out ahead from Isfahan to +various stages of the journey, until the Kashan-Nain-Yezd +road is met, on which post horses +can again be obtained at the Chappar Khanas. +This, however, involved so much uncertainty +and exorbitant expense that I preferred to +make up my own caravan of mules, the first +part of the journey being rather hilly.</p> + +<p>On leaving Isfahan there are mountains to the +south, the Urchin range, and also to the east, +very rugged and with sharply defined edges. +To the north-east stand distant elevations, but +nothing can be seen due north. We go through +a great many ruins on leaving the city, and here, +too, as in other cities of Persia, one is once +more struck by the unimportant appearance of +the city from a little distance off. The green +dome of the Mosque, and four minarets are seen +rising on the north-east, five more slender +minarets like factory chimneys—one extremely +high—then everything else the colour of mud.</p> + +<p>The traffic near the city is great. Hundreds +of donkeys and mules toddle along both towards<a name="Pg_1-352" id="Pg_1-352"></a> +and away from the city gate. The dust is +appalling. There is nothing more tantalizing +than the long stretches of uninteresting country +to be traversed in Persia, where, much as one +tries, there is nothing to rest one's eye upon; +so it is with great relief—almost joy—that we +come now to something new in the scenery, in +the shape of architecture—a great number of +most peculiar towers.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-45.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-45_th.jpg" alt="Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan." title="Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan.</p> + +<p>These are the pigeon towers—a great institution +in Central Persia. They are cylindrical in +shape, with castellated top, and are solidly built +with massive walls. They stand no less than +thirty to forty feet in height, and possess a +central well in which the guano is collected—the +object for which the towers are erected. A +quadrangular house on the top, and innumerable +small cells, where pigeons lay their eggs and +breed their young, are constructed all round the +tower. These towers are quite formidable +looking structures, and are so numerous, particularly +in the neighbourhood of Isfahan, as +to give the country quite a strongly fortified +appearance. The guano is removed once a +year. After passing Khorasgun, at Ghiavaz—a +small village—one could count as many as +twenty-four of these pigeon houses.</p> + +<p>Some amusement could be got from the way +the Persian telegraph line had been laid between +Isfahan and Yezd, <i>via</i> Nain. There were no +two poles of the same height or shape; some +were five or six feet long, others ten or fifteen;—some +were straight, some crooked; some of<a name="Pg_1-353" id="Pg_1-353"></a> +most irregular knobby shapes. As to the wire, +when it did happen to be supported on the pole +it was not fastened to an insulator, as one would +expect, but merely rested on a nail, or in an +indentation in the wood. For hundreds of +yards at a time the wire lay on the ground, and +the poles rested by its side or across it. Telegrams +sent by these Persian lines, I was told, +take several days to reach their destination, if +they ever do reach at all; and are usually +entrusted for conveyance, not to the wire, but +to caravan men happening to travel in that +particular direction, or to messengers specially +despatched from one city to the other.</p> + +<p>Some two farsakhs from Isfahan we went +through a passage where the hills nearly meet, +after which we entered a flat plain, barren and +ugly. In the distance to the south-east lay a +line of blackish trees, and another in front of us +in the direction we were travelling, due east. +Then we saw another bunch of pigeon +towers.</p> + +<p>Leaving behind the hills nearer to us to the +north-west, west, and south-west, and the more +distant and most fantastically shaped range to +the south, my mules gradually descend into the +plain. For an angle of 40° from east to S.S.E. +no hills are visible to the naked eye, but there +is a long range of comparatively low hills +encircling us from N.N.W. to S.S.E. and N.E. +of the observer, the highest points being at +80° (almost N.E.E.). To the north we have +a long line of <i>kanats</i>.<a name="Pg_1-354" id="Pg_1-354"></a></p> + +<p>Following the drunken row of telegraph +poles we arrive at Gullahbad (Gulnabad)—a +village in ruins. From this point for some +distance the soil is covered with a deposit of +salt, giving the appearance of a snow-clad landscape, +in sharp contrast with the terrific heat +prevailing at the time. This road is impassable +during the rainy weather. As one nears the +hills to the N.E. tufts of grass of an anæmic +green cover the ground (altitude 5,250 feet).</p> + +<p>Under a scorching sun we reached Saigsi (8 +farsakhs from Isfahan) at six o'clock in the +afternoon, and put up in the large caravanserai +with two rooms up stairs and ten down below +around the courtyard. The difference in the +behaviour of the natives upon roads on which +Europeans do not frequently travel could be +detected at once here. One met with the +greatest civility and simplicity of manner and, +above all, honesty, which one seldom finds where +European visitors are more common.</p> + +<p>There are few countries where the facial +types vary more than in Persia. The individuals +of nearly each town, each village, have peculiar +characteristics of their own. At Saigsi, for +instance, only 32 miles from Isfahan, we find an +absolutely different type of head, with abnormally +large mouth and widely-expanded nostrils, +the eyes wide apart, and the brow overhanging. +The latter may be caused by the constant +brilliant refraction of the white soil in the +glare of the sun (altitude of Saigsi 5,100 +feet).<a name="Pg_1-355" id="Pg_1-355"></a></p> + +<p>About four miles east of Saigsi and north of +the track we come across five curious parallel +lines of mud-heaps or dunes stretching from +north to south. Each of these heaps is precisely +where there is a gap in the mountain range to +the north of it, and each has the appearance of +having been gradually deposited there by a +current passing through these gaps when the +whole of this plain was the sea-bottom. These +mud heaps are flat-topped and vary from 20 to +40 feet in height, the central row of all being +the highest of the series. This is a grand place +for wonderful effects of mirage all round us. +To the W. spreads a beautiful lake in the +depression of the plain—as complete an optical +deception as it is possible to conceive, for in +reality there is no lake at all<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads ','">.</ins></p> + +<p>Water is not at all plentiful here. One finds +a reservoir made for caravans along this track. +It is a tank 25 feet by 10 feet sunk deep into the +ground and roofed over with a vault. The +water is sent to it by means of a channel from +the small village of Vartan north of it.</p> + +<p>We gradually rise to 5,550 feet and again we +have before us another beautiful effect of mirage +in the shape of a magnificent lake with a +village and cluster of trees apparently suspended +in the air. My caravan man assures me that +the village, which appears quite close by, is +many miles off.</p> + +<p>Long rows of <i>kanats</i>, ancient and modern, to +the south-east warn us of the approach of a +small town, and on the road plenty of skeletons<a name="Pg_1-356" id="Pg_1-356"></a> +of camels, donkeys, and mules may be seen. +Fodder is very scarce upon this track, and +many animals have to die of starvation. Also +animals caught here during the rains cannot proceed +in the sinking soft ground, and eventually +die.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-357" id="Pg_1-357"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXXVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Khupah—Sunken well—Caravanserai—Night marching—Kudeshk—The +Fishark and Sara ranges—Lhas—The pass—Whirlwinds—Robbers—Fezahbad—The +dangers of a +telegraph wire—An accident—Six villages—Deposits of sand +and gravel—Bambis—The people—Mosquitoes—A Persian +house—Weaving loom—Type of natives—Clothing—Sayids.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> in the afternoon Khupah (altitude 5,920 +feet) was reached, with its very large and dirty +caravanserai to the west, just outside the town +wall. From the roof—the only clean part of +the hostelry—one obtains a good panoramic +view of the town. It is built in a most irregular +shape, and is encircled by a castellated mud wall +with round turrets. There is a humble dome of +a mosque rising somewhat higher than all the +other little domes above each dwelling.</p> + +<p>Feeble attempts at raising a bazaar have been +made on different sites in the town, where bits of +arcades have been erected, but there are no signs +about the place of a flourishing industry or trade. +The majority of houses, especially in the northern +part of the city, are in ruins. The principal +thoroughfare is picturesque enough, and on the +occasion of my visit looked particularly attractive<a name="Pg_1-358" id="Pg_1-358"></a> +to me, with its huge trays of delicious grapes. +They were most refreshing to eat in the terrific +heat of the day. One peculiarity of the place is +that most doorways of houses are sunk—generally +from one to three feet—below the level of the +street.</p> + +<p>Between the caravanserai and the city is a +sunken well with flat roof and four ventilating +shafts to keep the water cool. Further away, +are seven more buildings—probably dead-houses—and +a garden. The little range north of the +city is quite low, and has in front of it a +pyramidal dune—a similar deposit to those we +have already noticed to the north-west in the +morning on our march to this place, but much +higher.</p> + +<p>South of the town many trees and verdant +gardens are visible, and to the West the immense +stretch of flat—some sixty miles of it that we +had travelled over from Isfahan.</p> + +<p>For want of a better amusement I sat on the +roof to watch the sunset, while Sadek cooked my +dinner. The nearer hills, of a bright cobalt blue, +faded into a light grey in the distance, the sky +shone in a warm cadmium yellow, and beneath +stretched the plain, of a dark-brown bluish +colour, uninterrupted for miles and miles, were +it not for one or two tumbled-down huts in +the immediate foreground, and a long, snake-like +track winding its way across the expanse until it +lost itself in the dim distance.</p> + +<p>Directly below, in the courtyard of the +caravanserai, four camels squatted round a cloth<a name="Pg_1-359" id="Pg_1-359"></a> +on which was served straw mixed with cotton +seeds, that gave flavour to their meal. The +camels slowly ground their food, moving their +lower jaws sideways from right to left, instead +of up and down as is usual in most other +animals; and some of the caravan men placidly +smoked their kalians, while others packed up +their bundles to make ready for their departure +as soon as the moon should rise. In another +corner of the courtyard my own caravan man +groomed the mules, and around a big flame a +little further off a crowd of admiring natives +gazed open-mouthed at Sadek boiling a chicken +and vegetables for my special benefit.</p> + +<p>We were to make a night march, as the heat +of the day was too great to travel in. At three +in the morning, yawning and stretching our +limbs when we were roused by the charvadar,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> +we got on the mules and made our departure. +The cold was intense, and the wind blowing +with all its might from the west. Six miles off +we passed Kamalbek, then six miles further the +large village of Moshkianuh in ruins, with a few +green trees near it.</p> + +<p>The plain on which we are travelling rises +gently up to the village of Kudeshk at the foot +of the mountain (altitude 6,750 feet). We +ascend gradually between hills to the north and +south and find ourselves in another flat valley, +about three quarters of a mile broad and one mile +and a half long. (Altitude 7,200 feet.) We +are surrounded by hills, and find two villages,<a name="Pg_1-360" id="Pg_1-360"></a> +one to the east, the other to the west of the +valley. The latter possesses buildings with +masonry walls instead of the usual mud ones, +and also masonry enclosures round wheat-fields +and fruit-tree groves.</p> + +<p>We continue to rise until the highest point of +the plain is reached, 7,620 feet. Two or three +smaller hamlets are found in the centre of the +plain.</p> + +<p>A second basin is found on proceeding east, +with here and there miserable clusters of trees; +otherwise everything is as barren as barren could +be. On the reddish hills the rocky portion +shows through at the summit only, whereas the +bases are enveloped in a covering of sand and +salt. To the north the Fishark and Sara mountain +range extends in a general direction of +N.W. to S.E., and its formation is quite interesting. +Due north of us the eye is attracted by a +peculiar hill, a double cone, two pointed, and +much redder in colour than the hills near it.</p> + +<p>On nearing the mountains many small villages +appear. Yazih village has a solid stone wall +round it. Wheat is cultivated by the natives, +good water being obtainable here in small but +limpid streams. Then we have the old village +of Lhas, now rejoicing in the new name of +Mazemullahmat, and near it, Fezahbad, where I +halted.</p> + +<p>I strolled in the afternoon a mile from the +latter village to the pass, 8,000 feet above sea +level. Directly in front of the pass (at 110° +bearings magnetic) stands a high peak, and<a name="Pg_1-361" id="Pg_1-361"></a> +beyond it to the right of the observer (at 140° +b.m.) another and higher summit.</p> + +<p>We leave behind to the W.N.W. the high +Sara mountain range, no peaks of which, I +estimated, rose above 10,000 feet. W.N.W. (at +280° b.m.) is a most curious conical hill, standing +isolated and very high above the plain.</p> + +<p>Among the most common sights of these +parts are the whirlwinds—the <i>tourbillons</i>,—each +revolving with terrific rapidity round its own +axis and raising to the sky a cylindrical column +of dust. They further move along the country +in a spasmodic manner, but never so fast that +they cannot be avoided. The diameter of the +wind columns I observed by the dust carried +with it, varied from 3 feet to 20 feet.</p> + +<p>The mountains we are travelling on are said to +be somewhat unsafe, the villagers being given to +attacking caravans, and robber bands coming +here for shelter when it becomes unsafe for them +to be on the Kashan-Yezd high road. In fact, +while resting in the house of Haji-Mulla Ahmed +at Fezahbad, a curious lot of men appeared, +who, notwithstanding the remonstrances of Sadek +and Haji, broke into the house in a most +boisterous manner, demanding food of the landlord. +They were armed with revolvers and old +Martini rifles, and had plenty of cartridges about +their persons. They seemed quite taken aback to +find a European inside the room. They changed +their attitude at once, and became quite polite.</p> + +<p>I entertained them to tea, of which they +drank gallons. I cannot say that I was<a name="Pg_1-362" id="Pg_1-362"></a> +particularly charmed with their faces, but their +manner was certainly most courteous. They +showed me their rifles—English Martinis with +additional gold ornamentations of lion and sun, +such as one sees in thousands all over Persia. I +asked them where they got them from. They +said they came from the Persian Gulf.</p> + +<p>Haji Mulla Ahmed, the founder of the village, +was a fine old fellow with a kindly face, eyes +shining like beads under an overhanging brow, +and a crimson beard dyed with henna. He +appeared rather sulky at this unwonted visit, +and more sulky still later when the visitors left +me and he had to provide food for them. He +said that the robbers frequently called upon him, +and were a great drain on his supplies.</p> + +<p>When we left at 1.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> to go across the +pass, he advised Sadek and myself to load our +rifles and keep a sharp look-out. As I had +already measured the altitude of the pass in the +afternoon I had no particular object in keeping +awake, so I slung the rifle to my saddle and +dozed off on my mule as we were slowly winding +our way up to the summit. The long night +marches were so dreary and the sound of the +mules' bells so monotonous that it was most +difficult to keep awake. One gradually learns to +balance one's self quite well on the saddle while +asleep, and it does shorten the long hours of +the night very considerably. Occasionally one +wakes up abruptly with a jolt, and one fancies that +one is just about to tumble over, but although I +suppose I must have ridden in my life hundreds<a name="Pg_1-363" id="Pg_1-363"></a> +of miles while asleep on the saddle, I have never +once had a fall in the natural course of affairs. The +animals, too, are generally so intelligent that +they do for one the balancing required and +manage to keep under the rider.</p> + +<p>On that particular night I was extremely +sleepy. I opened my eyes for a second when we +reached the pass and began to descend on the +other side, but sleepiness overcame me again. +I was riding the first mule in the caravan. Unexpectedly +I received a fearful blow in the face, +and I was very nearly torn off the saddle. +There was a curious metallic buzzing resounding +in the air, and before I had time to warn those +that came after, Sadek, who came next, was +knocked down, and the mules, frightened at this +unusual occurrence, stampeded down the steep +incline. It was the telegraph wire hanging loose +right across the road that had caused the accident. +The road was in zig-zag, and was crossed several +times by the wire which was laid more or less in +a straight line. But this, of course, I did not +know, so a few minutes later, before we had +time to bring the runaway mules to a stop, the +wire, unseen, was again met with a foot or so +above the ground. It caught the mules on the +legs, and as they were tied to one another, and +were carried on by the impetus of the pace at +which we were going, all the animals tumbled +down one on the top of the other in a heap. +The packs got mercilessly undone, and it took +us the best part of an hour to disentangle all and +get things straight again.<a name="Pg_1-364" id="Pg_1-364"></a></p> + +<p>The cold was bitter. Some two miles East of +the pass there were two roads, one leading to +Nain, the other to Nao Gombes. We took the +latter and shorter route, and with some sense of +relief now we left the telegraph line, which +proceeds to Nain.</p> + +<p>On the plateau east of the pass, we found six +small villages, the most eastern—Eshratawat +(Ishratabad)—being the largest (altitude 6,800 +ft.). When the sun was about to rise we more +clearly distinguished a grey, sombre, mountainous +mass to the east, sharply indented at its summit, +like the teeth of a gigantic saw, and ending +abruptly on the northern terminus.</p> + +<p>We had come between mountains, and some +twelve miles from Fezahbad we reached Kudarz +(altitude 6,580 ft.), a village situated at the foot +of the range we had crossed. As the sun peeped +above the mountains close by to the east a large +plain disclosed itself before the observer. A long +mountain range, bluish and indistinct, could just +be perceived in the distance, bounding the plain +to the north. Some low, semi-spherical and a +few conical hills, and also a somewhat higher +and rugged rocky elevation, were found on entering +the plain from the west.</p> + +<p>Oskholun village lies in the plain 16 miles +from Fezahbad. At the foot of the mountains +on one's right one notices a curious deposit of +sand and gravel, cushion shaped, rising in a +gentle incline up the mountain side to a height +of 150 feet. It would be interesting to find out +exactly how these accumulations have formed,<a name="Pg_1-365" id="Pg_1-365"></a> +and whether the wind or water or both are +responsible for them.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Bambis (altitude 5,660 ft.) +Sadek was in a great state of mind to find a +suitable house where we could put up, as there +were no caravanserais. Several of the principal +people in the town offered me their own houses, +and eventually, after careful inspection, I accepted +the cleanest.</p> + +<p>Of course, in small, out-of-the-way villages no +great luxury could be expected even in dwellings +of well-to-do people, but after entering by a miserable +door and going through a filthy passage, one +came to a nice little court with an ornamental +tank of somewhat fetid water. Swarms of mosquitoes +rose from the floating leaves of the water +plants as soon as we appeared and gave us a very +warm reception. In a few seconds we were +stung all over.</p> + +<p>The women folks were made to stampede to +the upper storey on our arrival, where they remained +concealed while we stayed in the house, +and the younger male members of the family +hastily removed all the bedding and personal +belongings from the principal room, which I +was to occupy. Clouds of dust were raised +when an attempt was made to sweep the dried +mud floor. Out of the windows of the upper +storey the women flung handsome carpets, which +Sadek duly spread upon the floor.</p> + +<p>The room was a very nice one, plastered all +over and painted white, enriched with adhering +dried leaves of red roses forming a design upon<a name="Pg_1-366" id="Pg_1-366"></a> +the ceiling. There were nine receptacles in the +walls, and four more in the sides of the chimney +piece. Next to this room was another similar +one, and opposite in the courtyard a kind of +alcove was used as a kitchen. It had a raised +part of mud bricks some three feet high and +about as broad, on which was fixed the weaving +loom that stretched right across the court when +in use. A hole was made in the raised portion, +in which the weaver sat when at work, so as +to keep the legs under the loom.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-46.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-46_th.jpg" alt="Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms." title="Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms.</p> + +<p>The loom is simple enough, the two sets of +long horizontal threads being kept at high +tension by an iron bar fixed into the cylindrical +wooden rollers, round which the threads are +rolled. There is then a vertical arrangement for +moving the long horizontal sets of threads +alternately up and down by means of pedals, a +cross thread being passed between them with a +spool, and beaten home each time with the large +comb suspended in a vertical position. The +threads are kept in position by two additional +combs which represent the width of the cloth, +and in which each horizontal thread is kept +firm in its central position by a clever device of +inverted loops between which it is passed and +clenched tight. The cloth is rolled round a +wooden cylinder. It is extremely strong and +durable. Almost each house has a weaving loom.</p> + +<p>On one side of the court was a recess in the +wall for valuables. The padlock was closed by +means of a screw. By the side of the kitchen +one found the lumber and refuse room, and there<a name="Pg_1-367" id="Pg_1-367"></a> +were corresponding arrangements on the floor +above. Unlike other Persian houses this was +lighted by windows with neat woodwork, instead +of by the usual skylight hole in the dome of the +room.</p> + +<p>The natives at this village were very handsome. +There was a touch of the Afghan type in the men, +and the women had fine faces with magnificent +eyes. One found firm mouths with well-cut and +properly developed lips, in contrast to the weak, +drooping mouths of the people one had met in +the western cities; and the noses were finely +chiselled, with well-defined nostrils. There was +no unsteadiness in the eyes, so common to the +Persians of the north-west,—and these fellows +consequently presented quite an honest appearance, +while the overhanging brow added a look +of pensiveness. The skull was peculiarly formed, +slanting upwards considerably from the forehead +to an abnormal height, and giving the cranium +an elongated shape. The ears, too, generally +malformed or under-developed in most Persians, +were better shaped in these people, although by +no means perfect. They, nevertheless, showed a +certain refinement of blood and race.</p> + +<p>In the matter of men's clothing it was gratifying +to find the ugly pleated frockcoats discarded—or, +rather, never adopted—and long picturesque +shirts and ample trousers worn instead, held +together by a kamarband. Over all was thrown +a brown burnous, not unlike that of the Bedouins, +and the head was wound in an ample turban +of the Hindoo pattern.<a name="Pg_1-368" id="Pg_1-368"></a></p> + +<p>Children wore short coats ornamented with +embroidery and shells at the back and pretty +silver buttons in front. Their little caps, too, +were embellished with shells, beads, or gold +braiding.</p> + +<p>Nearly all male natives, old and young, +suffered from complaints of the eyes, but not so +the women,—probably because they spent most +of the time in the house and did not expose +themselves to the glare of the sun and salty +dust, which seemed to be the principal cause of +severe inflammation of the eyes.</p> + +<p>Bambis village was greatly dependent upon +Isfahan for its provisions, and therefore everything +was very dear. Excellent vegetables, +<i>shalga</i>, <i>sardek</i>, <i>churconda</i>, and pomegranates were +nevertheless grown, by means of a most elaborate +and ingenious way of irrigation, but the water +was very brackish and dirty. Felt filters were +occasionally used by the natives for purifying the +drinking water.</p> + +<p>There were a number of Sayids living at Bambis, +who looked picturesque in their handsome +green turbans; they were men of a splendid +physique, very virile, simple in manner, serious +and dignified, and were held in much respect by +their fellow villagers.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Charvadar—Caravan man.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-369" id="Pg_1-369"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXXVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Bambis—The Kashsan-Yezd high road—The Kevir plain—Minerals—Chanoh—Sand +deposits—Sherawat—Kanats—Agdah—Stone +cairns—Kiafteh—An isolated mount—A +long sand bar—A forsaken village—Picturesque Biddeh—Handsome +caravanserai at Meiboh—Rare baths—Shamsi—Sand-hills—Hodjatabad—Fuel—A +"tower of silence"—A +split camel—Thousands of borings for water—A four-towered +well.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Bambis at ten o'clock on Sunday +evening and travelled on a flat plain the whole +night. One village (Arakan) was passed, and +eventually we entered the Teheran-Kashan-Yezd +high road which we struck at Nao Gombes. +Here there were a Chappar Khana and an +ancient Caravanserai—the latter said to be of the +time of Shah Abbas—but we did not stop, and +continued our journey along a broad, immense +stretch of flat country consisting of sand and +gravel.</p> + +<p>My men were fast asleep on their mules, but +the animals seemed to know their way well, as +they had been on this road many times before. +The night was extremely cold. We were now +at an altitude of 4,240 feet in what is called the +"Kevir," a small salt desert plain, enclosed to +the south-west of the track by the south-easterly<a name="Pg_1-370" id="Pg_1-370"></a> +continuation of the Sara and Keble range; to +the north-east by the Mehradji, Turkemani, and +Duldul mountains; and to the north by the +Aparek and Abiane mountains.</p> + +<p>During the rainy weather the drainage of the +latter two ranges is carried in large volumes into +the plain between them, and eventually into the +Kevir, in which it loses itself. To the south-east +the Ardakan mountains form a barrier, having, +however, a gap between them and the Andjile +mountains, through which the road crosses in a +south-easterly direction.</p> + +<p>Antimony is found in the Mehradji mountains, +and copper, lead (in several localities), nickel +and antimony in the Anarek region. Silver is +said to have been found in the Andjile. To the +north-east, almost in the middle of the Kevir, +stands the isolated high mountain of Siakuh.</p> + +<p>Thirty-six miles from Bambis we reached +Chanoh, a most desolate place, with a rest-house +in ruins and a couple of suspicious-looking wells. +We arrived here at eight in the morning, after +having travelled since ten o'clock the previous +evening, but we only allowed ourselves and our +mules four hours' rest for breakfast, and we were +again in the saddle at noon.</p> + +<p>There is nothing to interest the traveller on +this part of the road except an occasional passing +caravan, and the scenery is dreary beyond words. +Long, long stretches of flat, uninteresting sand +and gravel, or sand alone in places. On nearing +the spot where the track passes between the +Andjile and Ardakan mountains we find sand<a name="Pg_1-371" id="Pg_1-371"></a> +deposits stretching out for nearly two miles from +the mountain ranges to the south-west and south.</p> + +<p>Shehrawat (Shehrabad) village differs from +most we have seen in the shape of its few roofs, +which are semi-cylindrical, like a vault, and not +semi-spherical. A mud tower rises above them, +and there are a few fields and some fruit-trees +near the habitations.</p> + +<p>About a mile further, more sand dunes are to +be found, and a long row of kanats carrying +water to the village of Nasirabad, half a mile +east of the track. Further on we come upon +an open canal, and we can perceive a village +about two miles distant, also to the east of the +track.</p> + +<p>Just before arriving at Agdah the earth has +positively been disembowelled in search of water, +so numerous are the kanats of all sizes and +depths among which we wind our way. The +large village of Agdah itself stands on a prominence +(4,080 ft.) against a background of mountains, +and is embellished with a great many +orchards tidily walled round. It is a famous +place for pomegranates, which are really delicious. +As usual a number of ruined houses surround +those still standing, and as we skirt the village +wall over 30 feet high we observe some picturesque +high round towers.</p> + +<p>The telegraph wire (which we had met again +at Nao Gombes) was here quite an amusing +sight. In the neighbourhood of the village it +was highly decorated with rags of all colours, +and with stones tied to long strings which, when<a name="Pg_1-372" id="Pg_1-372"></a> +thrown up, wind themselves round and remain +entangled in the wire.</p> + +<p>There were some 300 habitations in Agdah, +the principal one with a large quadrangular +tower, being that of the Governor; but both the +Chappar khana and the caravanserai were the +filthiest we had so far encountered. A number +of Sayids lived here.</p> + +<p>We halted at four in the afternoon on Monday, +October 19th. The mules were so tired that I +decided to give them twelve hours' rest. It may +be noticed that we had travelled from ten o'clock +the previous evening until four in the afternoon—eighteen +hours—with only four hours' rest,—quite +good going for caravan marching. The mules +were excellent.</p> + +<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the Tuesday we rode out of the +caravanserai, and still travelled south-east on a +flat gravel plain, with the high Ardakan Mountains +to the east. Fourteen miles or so from +Agdah the country became undulating with +large pebble stones washed down from the mountain-sides. +Cairns of stone had been erected on +the first hillock we came to near the road. We +passed two villages, one on the track, the other +about a mile north of it, and near this latter two +or three smaller hamlets were situated.</p> + +<p>Sixteen miles from Agdah we halted for an +hour or so at the village of Kiafteh (Chaftah)—altitude +3,960 feet—with its round tower and +the Mosque of Semur-ed-din one mile north of +it. Here there was a Chappar khana. The +labourers wore a short blue shirt and ample<a name="Pg_1-373" id="Pg_1-373"></a> +trousers, with white turban and white shoes. +Having partaken of a hearty breakfast we were +off again on the road in the broiling sun at +10.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Beautiful effects of mirage were +before us like splendid lakes, with the mountains +reflected into them, and little islands.</p> + +<p>As we go through the gap in the mountains +that are now to the south-west and north-east +of us the plain narrows to a width of some four +miles, and the direction of the track is east-south-east. +To the south-east the hillocks of +a low range stretch as far as the mountains +on the south-west, and several parallel ranges lie +on the north-east. South, very far off, is the +high Shirkuh mountain.</p> + +<p>Eight miles from Kiafteh we cross over the +low hill range by a pass (4,090 ft.) about +100 feet above the plain (3,990 ft.). There is +a mournful look about the soil of black sand, +and also about the gloomy shingle hill range +extending from the north-east to the south-west. +The black underlying rock where exposed to the +air shows numberless holes corroded in it, as by +the action of moving salt water. An inexplicable +isolated hill stands in the centre of the valley, +which here is not perfectly flat, but in a gentle +incline, higher at its south-western extremity +than at its north-eastern edge.</p> + +<p>A formation of mud dunes similar to those we +had encountered near Saigsi is here to be noticed, +this time, however, not directly in front of each +gap in the mountain range, but opposite them +near the range in front, that forms a kind of<a name="Pg_1-374" id="Pg_1-374"></a> +bay. These dunes were probably caused by the +deposit of sand and gravel left by a current that +met the barrier of mountains on the opposite +side of the bay.</p> + +<p>On crossing the hill range some eighteen miles +from Kiafteh, we come across a sand-bar which +stretches in a semi-circle half way across the +valley, where it then suddenly turns south-east. +It is about 80 feet high. To all appearance the +sand deposited upon this bar seems to have +travelled in a direction from north north-east +to south south-west. A mile further it meets +another sand dune, stretching in a general +direction of south-west to north-east. Where +the higher dune comes to an end half-way +across the valley we find a village, having the +usual quadrangular mud enclosure with towers, +an abandoned caravanserai fast tumbling down, +and a few domed mud hovels. The larger and +better preserved village of Bafru, one mile to the +east of the track, is well surrounded by a long +expanse of verdant trees. South of it is the +other flourishing settlement of Deawat (Deabad).</p> + +<p>The abandoned village of Assiabo Gordoneh, +now in ruins, tells us a sad story. The village at +one time evidently ran short of water. Hundreds +of borings can be seen all round it in all directions, +but they must have been of no avail. The place +had to be forsaken.</p> + +<p>The sand dune is here 80 feet high. The +space between these two sand dunes—plateau-like—is +nicely cultivated in patches where some +water has been found.<a name="Pg_1-375" id="Pg_1-375"></a></p> + +<p>We arrived in the evening at Biddeh, a very +large and most weird place, with habitations +partly cut into the high mud banks. The houses +were several storeys high. The greater number +of buildings, now in ruins, show evidence of the +former importance of this place and the wonderful +ancient aqueducts with the water carried over +a high bridge from one side of a ravine to the +other are of great interest. This must have been +a prosperous place at one time. The whitish +clay soil has been quaintly corroded by the action +of water, and one finds curious grottoes and deep, +contorted, natural channels. A mosque and +several impressive buildings—the adjective only +applies when you do not get too near them—stand +high up against the cliff side. The +whole place is quite picturesque.</p> + +<p>The mules go along a narrow lane between +walled fields, and then by a steepish ascent +among ruined houses and patches of cultivation +we reach the summit of the clay dune, on which +the newer village of Meiboh (Maibut)—3,940 feet—is +situated.</p> + +<p>There is a most beautiful (for Persia) caravanserai +here with a delightful domed tank of clear +spring water, in which I then and there took a +delicious bath, much to the horror of the +caravanserai proprietor who assured me—when +it was too late—that the tank was no <i>hammam</i> or +bath, but was water for drinking purposes. His +horror turned into white rage when, moreover, +he declared that my soap, which I had used +freely, would kill all the fish which he had<a name="Pg_1-376" id="Pg_1-376"></a> +carefully nursed for years in the tank. We +spent most of the evening in watching the +state of their health, and eventually it was +with some relief that we perceived all the +soap float away and the water again become +as clear as crystal. To the evident discomfiture +of the caravanserai man, when we paid the +last visit to the tank at 4 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> just previous +to my departure, no deaths were to be registered +in the tank, and therefore no heavy +damages to pay.</p> + +<p>There is nothing one misses more than baths +while travelling in central and eastern Persia. +There is generally hardly sufficient water to +drink at the various stages, and it is usually so +slimy and bad that, although one does not mind +drinking it, because one has to, one really would +not dream of bathing or washing in it! Hence +my anxiety not to lose my chance of a good +plunge at Meiboh.</p> + +<p>On leaving Meiboh at 4 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we passed for a +considerable distance through land under cultivation, +the crop being principally wheat. A large +flour-mill was in course of construction at +Meiboh. After that we were again travelling +on a sandy plain, with thousands of borings for +water on all sides, and were advancing mainly to +the south-west towards the mountains. We +continued thus for some twelve miles as far as +Shamsi, another large village with much cultivation +around it. After that, there were sand and +stones under our mules' hoofs, and a broiling sun +over our heads. On both sides the track was<a name="Pg_1-377" id="Pg_1-377"></a> +screened by mountains and by a low hill range to +the north-east.</p> + +<p>About eight miles from Shamsi we entered a +region of sand hills, the sand accumulations—at +least, judging by the formation of the hills—showing +the movement of the sand to have been +from west to east. This fact was rather curious +and contrasted with nearly all the other sand +accumulations which we found later in eastern +Persia, where the sand moved mostly in a south-westerly +direction. No doubt the direction of +the wind was here greatly influenced and made to +deviate by the barriers of mountains so close at +hand.</p> + +<p>There were numerous villages, large and small, +on both sides of the track. Hodjatabad, our last +halt before reaching Yezd, only sixteen miles +further, had a handsome caravanserai, the porch +of which was vaulted over the high road. It was +comparatively clean, and had spacious stabling +for animals. Delicious grapes were to be obtained +here, and much of the country had been +cleared of the sand deposit and its fertile soil +cultivated.</p> + +<p>Fuel was very expensive in Persia. At the entrance +of nearly every caravanserai was displayed +a large clumsy wooden scale, upon which wood +was weighed for sale to travellers, and also, of +course, barley and fodder for one's animals. The +weights were generally round stones of various +sizes.</p> + +<p>Jaffarabad, a very large and prosperous place, +stood about one mile to the north-west of the<a name="Pg_1-378" id="Pg_1-378"></a> +caravanserai, and had vegetation and many trees +near it; this was also the case with the other +village of Medjamed, which had innumerable +fields round it.</p> + +<p>Firuzabad came next as we proceeded towards +Yezd, and then, after progressing very slowly,—we +sank deep in sand for several miles—we perceived +upon a rugged hill a large round white +"tower of silence," which had been erected +there by the Guebres <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: 'or' has been moved inside the parentheses">(or</ins> Parsees) for the disposal +of their dead. We skirted the mud wall +of Elawad—where the women's dress was in +shape not unlike that of Turkish women, and +consisted of ample, highly-coloured trousers and +short zouave jacket. The men resembled Afghans.</p> + +<p>I here came across the first running camel I +had seen in Persia, and on it was mounted a +picturesque rider, who had slung to his saddle a +sword, a gun, and two pistols, while round his +waistband a dagger, a powder-flask, bullet pouch, +cap carrier, and various such other warlike implements +hung gracefully in the bright light of +the sun. A few yards further we came upon a +ghastly sight—a split camel. The poor obstinate +beast had refused to cross a narrow stream by +the bridge, and had got instead on the slippery +mud near the water edge. His long clumsy +hind-legs had slipped with a sudden <i>écart</i> that +had torn his body ripped open. The camel was +being killed as we passed, and its piercing cries +and moans were too pitiful for words.</p> + +<p>The mountain on which the huge tower of +silence has been erected—by permission of Zil-<a name="Pg_1-379" id="Pg_1-379"></a>es-Sultan, +I was told—is quadrangular with a long, +narrow, flat-topped platform on the summit. +The best view of it is obtained from the south. +Sadek told me in all seriousness from information +received from the natives, that the bodies are +placed in these towers in a sitting position with +a stick under the chin to support them erect. +When crows come in swarms to pick away at +the body, if the right eye is plucked out first +by a plundering bird, it is said to be a sure sign +that the ex-soul of the body will go to heaven. +If the left eye is picked at first, then a warmer +climate is in store for the soul of the dead.</p> + +<p>After leaving behind the Guebre tower we +come again upon thousands of borings for water, +and ancient <i>kanats</i>, now dry and unused. The +country grows less sandy about eight miles from +Yezd, and we have now gradually ascended some +320 feet from the village of Meiboh (Maibut) +to an altitude of 4,230 feet. Here we altogether +miss the flourishing cultivation which lined the +track as far as the Guebre tower, and cannot +detect a single blade of grass or natural vegetation +of any kind on any side. There are high +mountains to the south-west and east.</p> + +<p>On the right (west) side of the track, eight +miles from Yezd, is the neat mud wall of Nusseratabad, +with a few trees peeping above it, but to +the left of us all is barren, and we toddled along +on grey, clayish sand.</p> + +<p>Half-way between Nusseratabad and Yezd a +four-towered well is to be found, and a quarter +of a mile further the Mazereh Sadrih village,<a name="Pg_1-380" id="Pg_1-380"></a> +one and a-half farsakhs from Yezd. The mules +sank deep in the fine sand. There were a good +many Guebres about, mostly employed in carrying +manure on donkeys. One of them, who was +just returning from one of these errands, addressed +me, much to my surprise, in Hindustani, which +he spoke quite fluently. He told me that he +had travelled all over India, and was about to +start again for Bombay.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-47.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-47_th.jpg" alt="Halting at a Caravanserai." title="Halting at a Caravanserai." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Halting at a Caravanserai.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-48.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-48_th.jpg" alt="A Street in Yezd, showing High Badjirs or Ventilating Shafts." title="A Street in Yezd, showing High Badjirs or Ventilating Shafts." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">A Street in Yezd, showing High</span> <i>Badjirs</i> <span class="smcap">or Ventilating Shafts.</span></p> + +<p>Some "<i>badjir</i>"—high ventilating shafts—and +a minaret or two tell us that we are approaching +the town of Yezd—the ancient city of the Parsees—and +soon after we enter the large suburb +of Mardavoh, with its dome and graceful tower.</p> + +<p>A track in an almost direct line, and shorter +than the one I had followed, exists between +Isfahan and Yezd. It passes south of the +Gao Khanah (Salt Lake) to the south-east of +Isfahan.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-381" id="Pg_1-381"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Yezd—Water supply—Climate—Cultivation—Products—Exports +and imports—Population—Trade—Officials—Education—Persian +children—Public schools—The Mushir +school—The Parsee school—C.M.S. mission school—The +medical mission—The hospital—Christianizing difficult—European +ladies in Persia—Tolerance of race religions.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Yezd</span> is the most central city of Persia, but +from a pictorial point of view the least interesting +city in the Shah's empire. There are a great +many mosques—it is said about fifty—but none +very beautiful. The streets are narrow and +tortuous, with high walls on either side and +nothing particularly attractive about them. +Curious narrow arches are frequently to be +noticed overhead in the streets, and it is supposed +that they are to support the side walls +against collapse.</p> + +<p>There is not, at least I could not find, a single +building of note in the city except the principal +and very ancient mosque,—a building in the last +degree of decay, but which must have formerly +been adorned with a handsome frontage. There +is a very extensive but tumbling-down wall +around the city, and a wide moat, reminding +one of a once strongly fortified place.<a name="Pg_1-382" id="Pg_1-382"></a></p> + +<p>To-day the greater portion of Yezd is in ruins. +The water supply is unfortunately very defective +and irregular. There are no perennial streams of +any importance, and all the irrigation works are +dependent on artificial subterranean canals and +kanats, and these in their turn are mostly subject +to the rain and snow fall on the hills surrounding +Yezd. Unluckily, the rains are now neither +frequent nor abundant, and the land has in consequence +been suffering severely from want of +water. Snow falls in winter and to a great +extent feeds the whole water supply of Yezd and +its neighbourhood. It is not surprising, therefore, +that more than three-quarters of the province of +Yezd is barren land, cultivation being under the +circumstances absolutely out of the question. +Some portions of the province, however, where +water is obtainable are quite fertile.</p> + +<p>Towards the west the hills show some signs of +vegetation, mainly fruit trees. But nothing +larger than a bush grows wild, if we except +occasional stunted fig-trees. Surrounded by +mountains as Yezd is, there are two different +climates close at hand: that of the "Kohestan" +or hills, temperate in summer but piercing cold +in winter, and the other, much warmer, of the +low-lying land. In the eastern lowlands the +summer heat is excessive, in autumn just bearable, +and in the spring the climate is quite +delightful. In all seasons, however, with few +exceptions, it is generally dry and always healthy +and pure.</p> + +<p>Where some moisture is obtainable the soil is<a name="Pg_1-383" id="Pg_1-383"></a> +very fertile and is cultivated by the natives. The +chief cultivated products are wheat, barley, and +other cereals, cotton, opium, and tobacco. The +vine flourishes near Yezd, and the wines used by +the Parsees are not unpalatable. Mulberries are +cultivated in large quantities. Silk is probably +the most important product of the Yezd district. +Wild game is said to be plentiful on the mountains. +With the exception of salt, the mineral +products of the district are insignificant.</p> + +<p>Yezd is a great trading centre, partly owing +to its geographical position, partly because its +inhabitants are very go-ahead and enterprising. +Yezd men are great travellers and possess good +business heads. They go across the salt desert +to Khorassan and Afghanistan, and they trade, +with India principally, via Kerman, Bandar +Abbas, and Lingah, and also to a small extent +via Sistan. Previously the trade went entirely +by Shiraz and Bushire, but now that road is +very unsafe, owing to robbers. Yezd traders +travel even much further afield, as far as China, +India, Java. During my short stay I met quite +a number of people who had visited Bombay, +Calcutta, Russia, Bokhara, and Turkestan.</p> + +<p>The settled population of Yezd consists mostly +of Shia Mahommedans, the descendants of the +ancient Persian race, with an intermixture of +foreign blood; the Parsees or Zoroastrians, who +still retain their purity of race and religious +faith, and who are principally engaged in agriculture +and commerce; a very small community +of European Christians, including a few Armenian<a name="Pg_1-384" id="Pg_1-384"></a> +natives of Julfa (Isfahan). Then there are about +one thousand Jews, who live mostly in abject +poverty.</p> + +<p>The Mahommedan population of the town +may be approximately estimated at sixty thousand. +Here, even more noticeably than in any +other Persian town, there is very little outward +show in the buildings, which are of earth and +mud and appear contemptible, but the interiors +of houses of the rich are pleasant and well-cared +for. The miserable look of the town, however, +is greatly redeemed by the beauty of the gardens +which surround it.</p> + +<p>It is to be regretted that the roads in and +around Yezd are in a wretched condition, being +absolutely neglected, for were there safer and +more practicable roads trade would be facilitated +and encouraged to no mean degree. As things +stand now, indigenous trade is increasing slowly, +but foreign trade is making no headway. The +silk and opium trades, which were formerly the +most profitable, have of late declined. Cottons +and woollens, silk, the <i>Kasb</i> and <i>Aluhi</i> of very +finest quality, shawls, cotton carpets and noted +felts equal if not superior to the best of Kum, +are manufactured both for home use and for +export.</p> + +<p>The exports mainly consist of almonds and +nuts, tobacco, opium (to China), colouring +matters, walnut-wood, silk, wool, cotton carpets, +felts, skins, assafoetida, shoes, copper pots, +country loaf-sugar, sweetmeats, for which Yezd +is celebrated, etc. Henna is brought to Yezd<a name="Pg_1-385" id="Pg_1-385"></a> +from Minab and Bandar Abbas to be ground and +prepared for the Persian market, being used with +<i>rang</i> as a dye for the hair.</p> + +<p>The chief imports are spices, cotton goods, +yarn, prints, copper sheeting, tin slabs, Indian +tea, broadcloth, jewellery, arms, cutlery, watches, +earthenware, glass and enamel wares, iron, loaf-sugar, +powdered sugar, etc.</p> + +<p>The Government of Yezd, as of other cities +of Persia, is purely despotic, limited only by the +power and influence of the Mahommedan priests, +the Mullahs, and by the dread of private vengeance +or an occasional insurrection. It is true +that the actions of Hakims and Governors and +their deputies are liable to revision from the +Teheran authorities, but this does not prevent +exactions and extortions being carried on quite +openly and on a large scale.</p> + +<p>The present Governor, Salal-ud-dauleh—"Glory +of the state,"—eldest son of Zil-es-Sultan, +is an intelligent and well-to-do young +man, sensibly educated, who tries his best to +be fair to everybody; but it is very difficult for +him to run alone against the strong tide of +corruption which swamps everything in Persia. +He is not in good health, and spends much of +his time hunting wild game at his country place +in the hills near Yezd. His town residence is a +kind of citadel—not particularly impressive, nor +clean—inside the city wall. The Naib-ul-Kukumat +was the Deputy-Governor at the time +of my visit. He seemed quite an affable and +intelligent man.<a name="Pg_1-386" id="Pg_1-386"></a></p> + +<p>Near the Palace in the heart of the city are +the covered bazaars, old and new, and well +stocked with goods, but they are in character so +exactly like those of Teheran and Isfahan, +already described in previous chapters, that a +repetition is quite unnecessary. The streets are +irregularly planned, and the older ones are very +dark and dingy, but the newer arcades are lofty +and handsome. The merchants seem—for Persia—quite +active and business-like.</p> + +<p>At the beginning of the nineteenth century +the population of Yezd is said to have been one +hundred thousand souls, and to have dwindled +down to less than thirty thousand in 1868-1870 +during the terrific famine which took place at +that time. Whether this is correct or not, it is +difficult to ascertain, but to-day the city is on +the increase again, and the population, as already +stated, is certainly not less than sixty thousand. +There are numerous Mahommedan <i>hammams</i> +(baths)—some 65 or more—in Yezd, but Europeans +are not allowed to enter them.</p> + +<p>The Yezd people are very forward in educational +matters. I inspected some of the schools +and colleges, and was much impressed by the +matter-of-fact, sensible way in which some of +the more modern institutions were conducted. +They would indeed put to shame a great many +of our schools in England, and as for the talent +of children, as compared with English children +of the same age, one had better say nothing at +all. With no exaggeration, children aged six +analysed and reasoned out problems placed before<a name="Pg_1-387" id="Pg_1-387"></a> +them in a way that would in this country +baffle men of six times that age. The quickness +of the Persian child's brain is well-nigh astounding, +and as for their goodness and diligence, +there is only one word that fits them: they are +simply "angelic." Their intense reverence for +the teachers, their eagerness really to learn, and +their quiet, attentive behaviour were indeed +worthy of admiration. But it must be well +understood that these angelic traits are confined +to the school-days only. When they leave +school the "angelic" wears off very soon, and +the boys, unluckily, drift into the old and demoralized +ways with which Persia is reeking.</p> + +<p>There are about a dozen public schools in +Yezd, but the one conducted on most modern +lines is the new school started by the Mushir. +If I understood aright, the Mushir provided the +buildings and money to work the school for a +period of time, after which if successful it will +be handed over to be supported by the city or by +private enterprise.</p> + +<p>The school was excellent. There were a +hundred pupils from the ages of six to fifteen, +and they were taught Arabic, Persian, English, +French, geography, arithmetic, &c. There was +a Mudir or head master who spoke French quite +fluently, and separate teachers for the other various +matters. The school was admirably conducted, +with quite a military discipline mingled +with extreme kindness and thoughtfulness on the +part of the teachers towards the pupils. By the +sound of a bell the boys were collected by the<a name="Pg_1-388" id="Pg_1-388"></a> +Mudir in the court-yard, round which on two +floors were the schoolrooms, specklessly clean +and well-aired.</p> + +<p>While I was being entertained to tea, sherbet, +and coffee, on a high platform, I was politely +requested to ascertain for myself the knowledge +of the boys—most of whom had only been in the +school less than a year. It was rather interesting +to hear little chaps of six or eight rattle off, +in a language foreign to them and without +making a single mistake, all the capitals of the +principal countries in the world, and the largest +rivers, the highest mountains, the biggest oceans, +and so on. And other little chaps—no taller +than three feet—summed up and subtracted and +divided and multiplied figures with an assurance, +quickness and accuracy which I, personally, very +much envied. Then they wrote English and +French sentences on the slate, and Persian and +Arabic, and I came out of the school fully convinced +that whatever was taught in that school +was certainly taught well. These were not +special pupils, but any pupil I chose to pick +out from the lot.</p> + +<p>I visited another excellent institution, the +Parsee school—one of several teaching institutions +that have been established in Yezd by the +Bombay Society for the amelioration of Persian +Zoroastrians,—in a most beautiful building internally, +with large courts and a lofty vaulted +hall wherein the classes are held. The boys, +from the ages of six to fifteen, lined the walls, +sitting cross-legged on mats, their notebooks,<a name="Pg_1-389" id="Pg_1-389"></a> +inkstands, and slate by their side. At the time +of my visit there were as many as 230 pupils, +and they received a similar education, but not +quite so high, as in the Mushir school. In the +Parsee school less time was devoted to foreign +languages.</p> + +<p>Ustad Javan Mard, a most venerable old man, +was the head-master, and Ustad Baharam his +assistant. The school seemed most flourishing, +and the pupils very well-behaved. Although +the stocks for punishing bad children were very +prominent under the teacher's table, the head-master +assured me that they were seldom required.</p> + +<p>Another little but most interesting school is +the one in connection with the clerical work +done by the Rev. Napier Malcolm. It is attended +principally by the sons of well-to-do +Mussulmans and by a few Parsees, who take +this excellent opportunity of learning English +thoroughly. Most of the teaching is done by +an Armenian assistant trained at the C. M. S. of +Julfa. Here, too, I was delightfully surprised to +notice how intelligent the boys were, and Mr. +Malcolm himself spoke in high terms of the +work done by the students. They showed a +great facility for learning languages, and I +was shown a boy who, in a few months, had +picked up sufficient English to converse quite +fluently. The boys, I was glad to see, are +taught in a very sensible manner, and what +they are made to learn will be of permanent use +to them.<a name="Pg_1-390" id="Pg_1-390"></a></p> + +<p>The Church Missionary Society is to be thanked, +not only for this good educational work which it +supplies in Yezd to children of all creeds, but for +the well-appointed hospital for men and women. +A large and handsome caravanserai was presented +to the Medical Mission by Mr. Godarz Mihri-ban-i-Irani, +one of the leading Parsees of Yezd, +and the building was adapted and converted by +the Church Missionary Society into a hospital, +with a permanent staff in the men's hospital of +an English doctor and three Armenian assistants. +There is also a smaller women's hospital +with an English lady doctor, who in 1901 was +aided by two ladies and by an Armenian assistant +trained at Julfa.</p> + +<p>There are properly disinfected wards in both +these hospitals, with good beds, a well appointed +dispensary, and dissecting room.</p> + +<p>The natives have of late availed themselves +considerably of the opportunity to get good +medical assistance, but few except the very +poorest, it seems, care actually to remain in the +hospital wards. They prefer to take the medicine +and go to their respective houses. A special +dark room has been constructed for the operation +and cure of cataract, which is a common complaint +in Yezd.</p> + +<p>The health of Yezd is uncommonly good, and +were it not that the people ruin their digestive +organs by excessive and injudicious eating, the +ailments of Yezd would be very few. The +population is, without exception, most favourable +to the work of the Medical Mission, and all<a name="Pg_1-391" id="Pg_1-391"></a> +classes seem to be grateful for the institution in +the town.</p> + +<p>The school work of the Mission necessarily +appeals to a much smaller circle, but there is no +doubt whatever about its being appreciated, and, +further, there seems to be exceedingly little +hostility to such religious inquiry and teaching +as does not altogether collide with or appear to +tend to severance from the Mussulman or Parsee +communities. This is very likely due to the +fast extending influence of the Behai sect, the +members of which regard favourably an acquaintance +with other non-idolatrous religions. +These people, notwithstanding their being outside +of official protection and in collision with +the Mullahs, form to-day a large proportion of +the population of Yezd, and exercise an influence +on public opinion considerably wider than the +boundaries of their sect. As for actual Missionary +work of Christianization going beyond this +point, the difficulties encountered and the risks +of a catastrophe are too great at present for any +sensible man to attempt it.</p> + +<p>The European staff of the C.M.S. Mission, +employed entirely in educational and medical +work in Yezd, consists of the Rev. Napier +Malcolm, M.A., a most sensible and able man, +and Mrs. Malcolm, who is of great help to her +husband; George Day Esq., L.R.C.P. & S., and +Mrs. Day; Miss Taylor, L.R.C.P. & S., Miss +Stirling, Miss Brighty.</p> + +<p>The work for ladies is somewhat uphill and +not always pleasant, for in Mussulman countries<a name="Pg_1-392" id="Pg_1-392"></a> +women, if not veiled, are constantly exposed to +the insults of roughs; but people are beginning +to get reconciled to what appeared to them at +first the very strange habits of European women, +and no doubt in time it will be less unpleasant +for ladies to work among the natives. So far +the few English ladies who have braved the +consequences of undertaking work in Persia are +greatly to be admired for their pluck, patience, +and tact.</p> + +<p>The Yezd C.M.S. Mission was started in +May, 1898, by Dr. Henry White, who had a +year's previous experience of medical work at +Julfa and Isfahan. He was then joined in +December of the same year by the Rev. Napier +Malcolm, who had just come out from England. +The European community of Yezd is very small. +Besides the above mentioned people—who do +not always reside in Yezd—there are two +Englishmen of the Bank of Persia, and a Swiss +employed by the firm of Ziegler & Co. That +is all.</p> + +<p>The fact that the Persian Government recognizes +the "race religions," such as those of +Armenians, Parsees and Jews, has led many to +believe that religious liberty exists in Persia. +There is a relative tolerance, but nothing more, +and even the Parsees and Jews have had until +quite lately—and occasionally even now have—to +submit to considerable indignities on the part +of the Mullahs. For new sects like the Behai, +however, who abandon the Mussulman faith, +there is absolutely no official protection. Great<a name="Pg_1-393" id="Pg_1-393"></a> +secrecy has to be maintained to avoid persecution. +There seems, nevertheless, to be a disposition on +the part of the Government to go considerably +beyond this point of sufferance, but wider +toleration does not exist at present, nor is it +perfectly clear to what length the Government +of the country would be prepared to go.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-394" id="Pg_1-394"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIX" id="V1-CHAPTER_XXXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXXIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Guebres of Yezd—Askizar—The Sassanian dynasty—Yezdeyard—The +name "Parsees"—The Arab invasion of +Persia—A romantic tale—Zoroaster—Parsees of India—Why +the Parsees remained in Yezd and Kerman—Their +number—Oppression—The teaching of the Zoroastrian +religion and of the Mahommedan—A refreshing quality—Family +ties—Injustice—Guebre places of worship—The +sacred fire—Religious ceremonies—Three excellent points +in the Zoroastrian religion—The Parsees not "fire +worshippers"—Purification of fire—No ancient sacred +books—Attire—No civil rights—The "jazia" tax—Occupations—The +Bombay Parsees Amelioration Society +and its work—The pioneers of trade—A national assembly—Ardeshir +Meheban Irani—Establishment of the Association—Naturalized +British subjects—Consulates wanted—The +Bombay Parsees—Successful traders—Parsee generosity—Mr. +Jamsetsji Tata.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Yezd</span> is extremely interesting from a historical +point of view, and for its close association with +that wonderful race the "Guebres," better known +in Europe by the name of Parsees. The ancient +city of Askizar was buried by shifting sands, in a +desert with a few oases, and was followed by the +present Yezd, which does not date from earlier +than the time of the Sassanian dynasty.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-49.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-49_th.jpg" alt="Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd." title="Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd.</p> + +<p>Yezdeyard, the weak and unlucky last King of +the Sassan family, which had reigned over Persia<a name="Pg_1-395" id="Pg_1-395"></a> +for 415 years, was the first to lay the foundations +of the city and to colonize its neighbourhood. +It is in this city that, notwithstanding the sufferings +and persecution of Mussulmans after the +Arab invasion of Persia, the successors of a handful +of brave people have to this day remained +faithful to their native soil.</p> + +<p>To be convinced that the Parsees of Yezd are +a strikingly fine lot of people it is sufficient to +look at them. The men are patriarchal, generous, +sober, intelligent, thrifty; the women, contrary +to the usage of all Asiatic races, are given great +freedom, but are renowned for their chastity and +modesty.</p> + +<p>The name of Parsees, adopted by the better-known +Guebres who migrated to India, has been +retained from Fars or Pars, their native country, +which contained, before the Arab invasion, +Persepolis as the capital, with a magnificent +royal palace. From this province the whole +kingdom eventually adopted the name.</p> + +<p>It is not necessary to go into the history of +the nine dynasties which ruled in Persia before +it was conquered by the Arabs, but for our purpose +it is well to remind the reader that of all +these dynasties the Sassanian was the last, and +Yezdeyard, as we have seen, the ultimate King +of the Sassan family.</p> + +<p>One is filled with horror at the romantic tale +of how, through weakness on his part and +treachery on that of his people, the fanatic +Arabs, guided by the light of Allah the Prophet, +conquered Persia, slaying the unbelievers and<a name="Pg_1-396" id="Pg_1-396"></a> +enforcing the Mahommedan religion on the +survivors. The runaway Yezdeyard was treacherously +slain with his own jewelled sword +by a miller, in whose house he had obtained +shelter after the disastrous battle of Nahavand +and his flight through Sistan, Khorassan and +Merv. Persia, with every vestige of its magnificence, +was lost for ever to the Persians, and the +supremacy of Mahommedanism, with its demoralizing +influence, its haughty intolerance and +fanatic bigotism, was firmly established from one +end of the country to the other. The fine temples, +the shrines of the Zoroastrians, were mercilessly +destroyed or changed into mosques.</p> + +<p>Zoroaster, the prophet of the Parsees, had first +promulgated his religion during the reign of +Gushtasp (<span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 1300) of the Kayanian family, +but after centuries of vicissitudes and corruption +it was not till the time of the Sassanian dynasty +(<span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 226) that Ardeshir Babekhan, the brave +and just, restored the Zoroastrian religion to its +ancient purity. It is this religion—the true +religion of ancient Persia—that was smothered +by the conquered Arabs by means of blood and +steel, and is only to-day retained in a slightly +modified character by the few remaining Guebres +of Yezd and Kerman, as well as by those who, +sooner than sacrifice their religious convictions +and their independence, preferred to abandon +their native land, migrating to India with their +families, where their successors are to be found +to this day still conservative to their faith.</p> + +<p>It is not too much to say that, although—in<a name="Pg_1-397" id="Pg_1-397"></a> +the conglomeration of races that form the Indian +Empire—the Parsees are few in number, not +more than 100,000 all counted, they nevertheless +occupy, through their honesty, intelligence and +firmness of character, the foremost place in that +country. But with these Parsees who migrated +we have no space to deal here. We will +merely see why the remainder escaped death at +the hands of the Mahommedans, and, while ever remaining +true to their religion, continued in Yezd +and Kerman when, under the new rulers, almost +the whole of the Zoroastrian population of Persia +was compelled to embrace the religion of Islam.</p> + +<p>The fact that Yezd and Kerman were two distant +and difficult places of access for the invading +Moslems, may be taken as the likely cause of +the Zoroastrians collecting there. Also for the +same reason, no doubt, the Arabs, tired of fighting +and slaying, and having given way to luxury and +vice, had become too lazy to carry on their +wholesale slaughter of the Zoroastrian population. +This leniency, however, has not done away entirely +with constant tyrannical persecution and +oppression of the unbelievers, so that now the +number of Zoroastrians of Yezd does not exceed +7,000, and that of Kerman is under 3,000. A great +many Zoroastrians have, notwithstanding their +unwillingness, been since compelled to turn Mahommedans. +Even fifty years ago the Zoroastrians +of Yezd and Kerman called in Persia +contemptuously "Guebres," were subjected to +degradations and restrictions of the worst kind. +Now their condition, under a stronger govern<a name="Pg_1-398" id="Pg_1-398"></a>ment +and some foreign influence, has slightly +ameliorated, but is not yet entirely secure against +the cruelty, fanaticism, and injustice of the Mullahs +and officials in the place.</p> + +<p>If Yezd is, for its size, now the most enterprising +trading centre of Persia, it is mostly due +to the Guebres living there. Although held in +contempt by the Mullahs and by the Mahommedans +in general, these Guebres are manly +fellows, sound in body and brain, instead of lascivious, +demoralized, effeminate creatures like their +tyrants. Hundreds of years of oppression have +had little effect on the moral and physical condition +of the Guebres. They are still as hardy +and proud as when the whole country belonged +to them; nor has the demoralizing contact of +the present race, to whom they are subject, had +any marked effect on their industry, which was +the most remarkable characteristic in the ancient +Zoroastrians.</p> + +<p>The Zoroastrian religion teaches that every +man must earn his food by his own exertion +and enterprise,—quite unlike the Mahommedan +teaching, that the height of bliss is to live on the +charity of one's neighbours, which rule, however, +carries a counterbalancing conviction that the +more money dispensed in alms, the greater the +certainty of the givers obtaining after death a +seat in heaven.</p> + +<p>One of the most refreshing qualities of the +Guebres (and of the Parsees in India) is that they +are usually extraordinarily truthful for natives of +Asia, and their morality, even in men, is indeed<a name="Pg_1-399" id="Pg_1-399"></a> +quite above the average. There are few races +among which marriages are conducted on more +sensible lines and are more successful. The man +and woman united by marriage live in friendly +equality, and are a help to one another. Family +ties are very strong, and are carried down even +to distant relations, while the paternal and maternal +love for their children, and touching filial +love for their parents, is most praiseworthy and +deserves the greatest admiration.</p> + +<p>The Mussulmans themselves, although religiously +at variance and not keen to follow the +good example of the Guebres, admit the fact +that the Zoroastrians are honest and good people. +It is principally the Mullahs who are bitter +against them and instigate the crowds to excesses. +There is not such a thing for the Guebres as +justice in Persia, and even up to quite recent +times their fire temples and towers of silence +were attacked and broken into by Mussulman +crowds, the fires, so tenderly cared for, mercilessly +put out: the sacred books destroyed, and the +temples desecrated in the most insulting manner.</p> + +<p>There are a number of Guebre places of worship +in Yezd, and in the surrounding villages +inhabited by Guebre agriculturists, but the principal +one is in the centre of the Guebre quarter +of Yezd city. It is a neat, small structure, +very simple and whitewashed inside, with a +fortified back room wherein the sacred fire is +kept alight, well covered with ashes by a specially +deputed priest. It is hidden so as to make it +difficult for intending invaders to discover it; and<a name="Pg_1-400" id="Pg_1-400"></a> +the strong door, well protected by iron bars, +wants a good deal of forcing before it can be +knocked down.</p> + +<p>The religious ceremony in the temple of the +Guebres is very interesting, the officiating priests +being dressed up in a long white garment, the +<i>sudra</i>, held together by a sacred girdle, and with +the lower portion of the face covered by a square +piece of cloth like a handkerchief; on the head +they wear a peculiar cap. Various genuflexions, +on a specially spread carpet, and bows are made +and prayers read.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-50.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-50_th.jpg" alt="Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple." title="Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple.</p> + +<p>The priests belong generally to the better +classes, and the rank is mostly hereditary. Certain +ceremonies are considered necessary before the +candidate can attain the actual dignity of a prelate. +First of the ceremonies comes the <i>navar</i>, +or six days' retreat in his own dwelling, followed +by the ceremony of initiation; four more days +in the fire temple with two priests who have +previously gone through the <i>Yasna</i> prayers for +six consecutive mornings. Although after this +he can officiate in some ceremonies, such as +weddings, he is not fully qualified as a priest +until the <i>Bareshnun</i> has been undergone and +again the <i>Yasna</i>. The following day other +prayers are offered to the guardian spirit, and +at midnight the last ceremony takes place, and +he is qualified to the degree of <i>Maratab</i>, when +he can take part in any of the Zoroastrian rituals.</p> + +<p>As a preliminary, great purity of mind and +body are required from candidates, and they are +made to endure lavish ablutions of water and<a name="Pg_1-401" id="Pg_1-401"></a> +cow urine, clay and sand—an ancient custom, +said to cleanse the body better than modern +soaps. After that the candidate is secluded for +nine whole days in the fire temple, and is not +permitted to touch human beings, vegetation, +water nor fire, and must wash himself twice +more during that time, on the fourth day and on +the seventh. It is only then that he is considered +amply purified and able to go through the <i>Navar</i> +ceremony.</p> + +<p>The Zoroastrian religion is based on three +excellent points—"good thoughts, good words, +good deeds"—and as long as people adhere to +them it is difficult to see how they can go +wrong. They worship God and only one God, +and do not admit idolatry. They are most +open-minded regarding other people's notions, +and are ever ready to recognise that other +religions have their own good points.</p> + +<p>Perhaps no greater libel was ever perpetrated +on the Parsees than when they were put down +as "fire-worshippers," or "worshippers of the +elements." The Parsees are God-worshippers, +but revere, not worship, fire and the sun as symbols +of glory, heat, splendour, and purity; also +because fire is to human beings one of the most +necessary things in creation, if not indeed the +most necessary thing; otherwise they are no +more fire-worshippers than the Roman Catholics, +for instance, who might easily come under the +same heading, for they have lighted candles and +lights constantly burning in front of images +inside their churches.<a name="Pg_1-402" id="Pg_1-402"></a></p> + +<p>Besides, it is not the fire itself, as fire, that +Parsees nurse in their temples, but a fire specially +purified for the purpose. The process is this: +Several fires, if possible originally lighted by +some natural cause, such as lightning, are +brought in vases. Over one of these fires is +placed a flat perforated tray of metal on which +small pieces of very dry sandal-wood are made +to ignite by the mere action of the heat, but +must not actually come in contact with the +flame below. From this fire a third one is +lighted in a similar manner, and nine times this +operation is repeated, each successive fire being +considered purer than its predecessor, and the +result of the ninth conflagration being pronounced +absolutely pure.</p> + +<p>It is really the idea of the purifying process +that the Parsees revere more than the fire itself, +and as the ninth fire alone is considered worthy +to occupy a special place in their temples, so, in +similarity to it, they aim in life to purify their +own thoughts, words, and actions, and glorify +them into "good thoughts, true words, noble +actions." This is indeed very different from fire-worshipping +of which the Parsees are generally +accused.</p> + +<p>In Yezd the Guebres told me that they +possessed very few sacred books in their temple +(or if they had them could not show them). +They said that all the ancient books had been +destroyed by the Mahommedans or had been +taken away to India.</p> + +<p>There were also several smaller temples in the<a name="Pg_1-403" id="Pg_1-403"></a> +neighbourhood of Yezd, which had gone through +a good many vicissitudes in their time, but now +the Parsees and their places of worship are left +in comparative peace. Parsee men and women +are still compelled to wear special clothes so as +to be detected at once in the streets, but this +custom is gradually dying out. The women are +garbed in highly-coloured striped garments, a +short jacket and a small turban, leaving the face +uncovered. The men are only allowed to wear +certain specially-coloured cloaks and are not +allowed to ride a horse in the streets of Yezd.</p> + +<p>Parsees do not enjoy the civil rights of other +citizens in Persia, and justice was until quite +lately out of the question in the case of differences +with Mussulmans. At death a man's property +would be lawfully inherited by any distant +relation who had adopted the religion of Moslem, +instead of by the man's own children and wife +who had remained faithful to their creed; and +in the matter of recovering debts from Mussulmans +the law of Persia is certainly very far +indeed from helping a Guebre. This is necessarily +a great obstacle in commercial intercourse.</p> + +<p>Worst of all the burdens formerly inflicted +upon the Guebres—as well as upon Armenians +and Jews of Persia—was the "jazia" tax. Some +thousand or so male Guebres of Yezd were +ordered to pay the tax yearly, which with +commissions and "squeezes" of Governors and +officials was made to amount to some two +thousand tomans, or about £400 at the present +rate of exchange. Much severity and even<a name="Pg_1-404" id="Pg_1-404"></a> +cruelty were enforced to obtain payment of the +tax.</p> + +<p>The Parsees were, until quite lately, debarred +from undertaking any occupation that might +place them on a level with Mahommedans. +With the exception of a few merchants—who, +by migrating to India and obtaining British +nationality, returned and enjoyed a certain +amount of nominal safety—the majority of the +population consists of agriculturists and +scavengers.</p> + +<p>Mainly by the efforts of the Bombay Amelioration +Society of the Parsees, the Guebres of Yezd +and Kerman fare to-day comparatively well. +The "jazia" has been abolished, and the present +Shah and the local Government have to be congratulated +on their fairness and consideration +towards these fine people. May-be that soon +they will be permitted to enjoy all the rights of +other citizens, which they indeed fully deserve. +Many steps have been made in that direction +within the last few years. The Parsees are a +most progressive race if properly protected. +They are only too anxious to lead the way in all +reformation, and, with all this, are remarkable for +their courteousness and refined manner.</p> + +<p>The most prominent members of the Yezd +community, especially the sons of Meheban +Rustam, have been the pioneers of trade between +Yezd and India. Besides the excellent Parsee +school, several other institutions have been established +in Yezd and its suburbs by the Bombay +Society, supported by a few charitable Parsees of<a name="Pg_1-405" id="Pg_1-405"></a> +Bombay and some of the leading members of the +Parsee community in Yezd. The Bombay Society +has done much to raise the Zoroastrians of Persia +to their present comparatively advanced state, but +trade and commerce also have to a great extent +contributed to their present eminence.</p> + +<p>The Bombay Society nominates and sends an +agent to reside in Teheran, the capital of Persia, +to look after the interests of helpless Zoroastrians, +and the Parsees of Yezd have moreover a national +assembly called the Anguman-i-Nasseri.</p> + +<p>I was entertained by this interesting body of +men, and received from their president, Ardeshir +Meheban Irani, much of the valuable information +here given about the Yezd Parsees. The Association +has an elected body of twenty-eight +members, all honorary, the most venerable and +intelligent of the community, and its aims are to +advocate the social rights of the Zoroastrians as a +race, to settle disputes arising between the individuals +of the community, to defend helpless +Parsees against Moslem wantonness, and to improve +their condition generally.</p> + +<p>The Association was established on the 3rd of +February, 1902, by the late Mr. Kaikosroo +Firendaz Irani, the then agent of the Bombay +Society. In this work he had the advice and +help of the leading men of the community.</p> + +<p>There are several naturalised British subjects +in Yezd, including the President of the Association—who +speaks and writes English as well as +any Englishman—but it is greatly to be regretted +that these men cannot obtain proper protection<a name="Pg_1-406" id="Pg_1-406"></a> +from the British Government. Yet these fellows +could be of very great assistance to England in +spreading British influence in Yezd, not to speak +of increasing British trade—which they are only +too anxious to do, if a chance is given them—in +conjunction with the representatives of their race +in Bombay—the most Anglicised, except in +religion, of all our subject races of India. There +was formerly a British Vice-Consul in Yezd, but +for some reason known to the Government, while +Russia finds it expedient to establish Consular +agents in all the principal centres of Persia, we +have actually withdrawn our representative even +from so important a city as Yezd!</p> + +<p>The Parsee communities of Yezd and Bombay +are in constant communication with each other, +and it is well known what marvellous prosperity +these fugitives of Fars have now attained in +Bombay, through their honesty and hard work, +especially since their connection with the British, +whose civilisation, with the exception of religion +and the hat, they have entirely adopted. Most +of them speak perfect English, and many of the +sons of the wealthier Parsees have been educated +at universities in England. We find them working +banking houses on a large scale, and cotton +mills, running lines of steamers and shipbuilding +yards. They trade considerably with the Far East +and Far West, and with every nook in Asia. Even +as far as Samarkand, Bokhara, Siberia, Nijni-Novgorod, +and St. Petersburg, Parsee traders are +to be found, and in Japan, China, the United States, +and Canada. With England they carry on a<a name="Pg_1-407" id="Pg_1-407"></a> +very extensive trade, and through them as intermediaries +much of the import trade into India +finds its way into neighbouring markets more +difficult of access to the direct British exporter.</p> + +<p>One of the most noticeable traits of the +flourishing Parsees of Bombay is their extreme +generosity, often hampered by petty, stupid, +Anglo-Indian officialdom, which they seem to +stand with amazing patience and good-nature. +We find well appointed hospitals erected by +them; schools, clubs, and only lately one of +the richest of all Parsees, Mr. Jamsetsji Tata, has +given the city of Bombay no less a gift than a +quarter of a million pounds for the erection of a +university on the most modern lines in that +city.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-408" id="Pg_1-408"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XL" id="V1-CHAPTER_XL"></a>CHAPTER XL</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p><i>Badjirs</i>—Below the sand level—Chappar service between Yezd +and Kerman—The elasticity of a farsakh—Sar-i-Yezd—An +escort—Where three provinces meet—Etiquette—Robbers' +impunity—A capital story—Zen-u-din—The Serde Kuh +range—Desert—Sand accumulations—Kermanshah—The +Darestan and Godare Hashimshan Mountains—Chappar +Khana inscriptions and ornamentations by travellers—Shemsh.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> most characteristic objects in Yezd are the +<i>badjirs</i>, a most ingenious device for catching the +wind and conveying it down into the various +rooms of dwelling. These <i>badjirs</i> are on the +same principle as the ventilating cowls of ships. +The ventilating shafts are usually very high and +quadrangular, with two, three, or more openings +on each side at the summit and corresponding +channels to convey the wind down into the room +below. The lower apertures of the channels +are blocked except on the side where the wind +happens to blow, and thus a draught is created +from the top downwards, sweeping the whole +room and rendering it quite cool and pleasant +even in the hottest days of summer. The reason +that one finds so many of these high <i>badjirs</i> in +Yezd is probably that, owing to constant accu<a name="Pg_1-409" id="Pg_1-409"></a>mulations +of sand, the whole city is now below +the level of the surrounding desert, and some +device had to be adopted to procure fresh air +inside the houses and protect the inhabitants +from the suffocating lack of ventilation during +the stifling heat of the summer. The <i>badjirs</i> +are certainly constructed in a most scientific +or, rather, practical manner, and answer the purpose +to perfection.</p> + +<p>When we leave Yezd the city itself cannot be +seen at all, but just above the sand of the desert +rise hundreds of these quadrangular towers, some +very large indeed, which give the place a quaint +appearance.</p> + +<p>From Yezd to Kerman there is again a service +of post-horses, so I availed myself of it in order +to save as much time as possible. The horses +were not much used on this road so they were +excellent.</p> + +<p>I departed from Yezd on October 26th, and +soon after leaving the city and riding through +the usual plentiful but most unattractive ruins, +we were travelling over very uninteresting +country, practically a desert. We passed two +villages—Najafabat and Rachmatabad—and then +wound our way through avenues of dried-up +mulberry trees at Mahommedabad or Namadawat, +a village where silk-worms are reared in +quantities, which accounts for the extensive +mulberry plantations to provide food for them. +The village is large and is three farsakhs from +Yezd, or something like ten miles.</p> + +<p>The "farsakh"—the most elastic measure<a name="Pg_1-410" id="Pg_1-410"></a> +ever invented—decreases here to just above three +miles, whereas further north it averaged four +miles.</p> + +<p>In a strong wind we rode on, first on sand, +then on gravelly soil, ever through dreary, +desolate country. The villages, Taghiabad, +Zehnawat, etc., get smaller and poorer and +further apart, and some eight farsakhs from +Yezd we eventually reach the small town of Sar-i-Yezd. +From Namadawat the country was an +absolutely flat gravel plain with no water.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-51.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-51_th.jpg" alt="Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank." title="Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank.</p> + +<p>At Sar-i-Yezd (altitude 4,980 feet) we were +detained some time. The highest official in the +place had received orders from the Governor of +Yezd not to let me proceed without a strong +guard to accompany me. This was rather a +nuisance than otherwise, for, although the +country between Sar-i-Yezd and Anar was +reported infested by robbers, we really should +have been able to hold our own against them +even without the rabble that was sent to accompany +us.</p> + +<p>After a delay of some hours five soldiers—as +picturesque as they would have been useless in +case of danger—put in an appearance. They had +old long muzzle loaders, which must have been +more dangerous to the person firing them than +to the ones fired at, and they wore elaborate +leather belts with two ample pouches for lead +bullets, two gunpowder flasks made of desiccated +sheep testicles, a leather bag for small shot, and +a large iron ring with small clips for caps. +Horses could not be procured for these men, so<a name="Pg_1-411" id="Pg_1-411"></a> +they had to follow my baggage on foot, which +caused a further delay.</p> + +<p>We left shortly before sunset as I intended +marching the whole night. There was a great +discussion among these soldiers about crossing +over into Kerman territory, four farsakhs beyond +Sar-i-Yezd, and just at the point where the +robbers are supposed to attack caravans the +guard, whether through fear or otherwise, declined +to come on. Sadek remonstrated most +bitterly, but three of them left us, while two +said they had been entrusted with orders to see +me and my luggage safely to the place where +another guard could be obtained and would continue. +I tried to persuade them to go back too, +but they would not.</p> + +<p>It appears that between Sar-i-Yezd and Zen-u-din +there is an expanse of waste land near the +boundary of the Yezd, Kerman and Farsistan +(Shiraz) provinces, the possession of which is +declared by the Governors of all these provinces +not to belong to them, the boundary having +never been properly defined. So robbers can +carry on their evil deeds with comparative +immunity, as they do not come under the jurisdiction +of any of the three Governors in question. +Moreover, if chased by Yezd soldiers, they escape +into Shiraz or Kerman territory, and if pursued +by Kerman troops they escape into either of the +neighbouring provinces, while the Governor of +Shiraz, being the furthest and least interested in +that distant corner of his province, really never +knows and probably does not care to learn what<a name="Pg_1-412" id="Pg_1-412"></a> +takes place in so remote and barren a spot. In +any case he will not be held responsible for anything +happening there. It would certainly +involve him in too great expense and difficulty to +send soldiers to live so far into the desert, and +unless in great force they could be of little +assistance to caravans; so that, as things stand, +robber bands have it all their own way.</p> + +<p>Strict etiquette is observed between Governors +of provinces and their subordinates, and an encroachment +on one's neighbour's territory would +be considered a most outrageous breach of good +manners and respective rights.</p> + +<p>Still travelling quite fast across sand, and with +no brigands in sight, we went on, pleasantly +entertained by the astounding yarns of the two +remaining soldiers. We were told how, twenty +years ago, a foreign doctor—nationality unknown—being +attacked by a band of thirty robbers, +produced a small bottle of foreign medicine—presumably +a most highly concentrated essence +of chloroform—from his waistcoat pocket and, +having removed the cork, the thirty brigands +immediately fell on all sides in a deep sleep. +The doctor and his party then continued their +journey quietly, and returned several days later +with a number of soldiers, who had no trouble in +despatching the robbers from a temporary into +an eternal sleep, without their waking up at all!</p> + +<p>On being asked how it was that the doctor +himself remained awake when such a powerful +narcotic was administered, the narrator did not +lose his presence of mind nor his absence of con<a name="Pg_1-413" id="Pg_1-413"></a>science, +and said the doctor had, during the +operation, held his nose tight with his two +fingers. The doctor had since been offered +thousands of tomans for the precious bottle, but +would not part with it.</p> + +<p>The soldiers told us a great many more stories +of this type, and they recounted them with such +an <i>aplomb</i> and seriousness that they nearly made +one fall off one's saddle with laughter. Every +now and then they insisted on firing off their +rifles, which I requested them to do some distance +away from my horses. There were no +mishaps.</p> + +<p>At Sar-i-Yezd I had not been able to obtain +fresh horses, so the Yezd horses had been taken +on, with an additional donkey. They had gone +splendidly, and we arrived at Zen-u-din shortly +after ten o'clock at night.</p> + +<p>Solitary, in the middle of the desert, and by +the side of a salt water well, stands Zen-u-din (Alt. +5,170 feet). There is a chappar station, and +a tumbling-down, circular caravanserai with +massively built watch-towers. These appeared +much battered as if from the result of repeated +attacks.</p> + +<p>We left our soldier protectors behind here, +and two more military persons, in rags and with +obsolete guns, insisted on accompanying us, but +as they were on foot and would have delayed +us considerably I paid them off, a hundred yards +from Zen-u-din, and sent them back.</p> + +<p>There are mountains extending from the north-east +to the south-east, the Serde Kuh range, and<a name="Pg_1-414" id="Pg_1-414"></a> +to the south-east they are quite close to the track +and show low passes a mile or so apart by which +the range could easily be crossed. To the west +also we have high hills, some three or four miles +apart from the mountains to the north-east, and +to the north an open desert as far as Yezd. We +notice here again the curious accumulations of +sand high up on the south mountain side, and +also to the south-west of the mountain range +east of us.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-52.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-52_th.jpg" alt="Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman." title="Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-53.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-53_th.jpg" alt="A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman." title="A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman.</p> + +<p>At ten in the morning, after a dreary ride +through desolate country, we reached the small +village of Kermanshah (5,300 feet), where a +post station and caravanserai were to be found, +a few trees and, above all, some good drinking +water. From Zen-u-din to Kermanshah, a distance +of sixteen miles (five farsakhs), we had seen +only one solitary tree to the south-west of the +track.</p> + +<p>We had now rugged mountains about a mile +to the west and south-west. These were ranges +parallel to one another, the Darestan mountains +being the nearest to us and the Godare Hashimshan +behind them further south-west.</p> + +<p>While I was waiting for fresh horses to be got +ready I amused myself at every station studying +the curious inscriptions and ornamentations by +scribbling travellers on the caravanserai and post-house +walls. Laboriously engraved quotations +from the Koran were the most numerous, then +the respective names of travellers, in characters +more or less elaborate according to the education +of the writer, and generally accompanied by a<a name="Pg_1-415" id="Pg_1-415"></a> +record of the journey, place of birth, and destination +of the scribbler. Occasionally one was +startled by a French inscription in sickening +terms of humility, the work of Persian minor +officials in Government employ, who thus made +a public exhibition of their knowledge of a +foreign language and expounded in glowing +terms their servile admiration for superiors.</p> + +<p>More interesting were the records of illiterate +travellers who, in default of literature, placed one +arm and hand upon the whitewashed wall and +traced their silhouette with the point of a knife +or a bit of charcoal or a brush held in the other +hand.</p> + +<p>Then came those still more artistically inclined, +who ventured into conventionalised representations +of the peacock with widely-expanded tail—the +most favourite and frequent of Persian outbursts +of Chappar khana art, and probably the +most emblematic representation of Persian character. +The conventionalised peacock is represented +in a few lines, such as one sees on the +familiar Persian brass trays.</p> + +<p>The Shah's portrait with luxuriant moustache +is met in most Chappar khanas scraped somewhere +upon the wall, and not infrequently other +whole human figures drawn in mere lines, such +as children do in our country, but with a greater +profusion of anatomical detail. Very frequent +indeed are the coarse representations of scenes +in daily life, which we generally prefer to leave +unrecorded—in fact, the artistic genius of the +Persian traveller seems to run very much in that<a name="Pg_1-416" id="Pg_1-416"></a> +direction, and these drawings are generally the +most elaborate of all, often showing signs of +multiple collaboration.</p> + +<p>Horses fully harnessed are occasionally attempted, +but I never saw a camel represented. +Only once did I come across a huge representation +of a ship or a boat. Small birds drawn with +five or six lines only, but quite characteristic of +conventionalised Persian art, were extremely +common, and were the most ingeniously clever of +the lot. Centipedes and occasional scorpions were +now and then attempted with much ingenuity and +faithfulness of detail but no artistic merit.</p> + +<p>All these ornamentations, studied carefully, +taught one a good deal of Persian character. +That the Persian is very observant and his mind +very analytical, is quite out of the question, but +his fault lies in the fact that in art as in daily life +minor details strike him long before he can grasp +the larger and more important general view of +what he sees. He prefers to leave that to take +care of itself. We find the same characteristics +not only in his frivolous Chappar khana art—where +he can be studied unawares and is therefore +quite natural—but in his more serious art, +in his music, in his business transactions, in his +political work. The lack of simplicity which we +notice in his rude drawings can be detected in +everything else he does, and the evident delight +which he takes in depicting a peacock with its tail +spread in all its glory is nothing more and nothing +less than an expression of what the Persian feels +within himself in relation to his neighbours.<a name="Pg_1-417" id="Pg_1-417"></a></p> + +<p>Nothing has a greater fascination for him than +outward show and pomp. He cares for little +else, and a further proof of this unhappy vainglory +is obtained by the study of the wall scrolls +of the travelling public—whether travelling +officially or for trading purposes—representing +in Persia usually the most go-ahead and intelligent +section of the Persian population.</p> + +<p>On we go along the dreary track, again on +flat, desolate country of sand and stones at the +spur of the mountains to the west and south-west. +Sand deposits rise at a gentle gradient up +to half the height of these mountains, well +padding their slopes. The track here leads us +due south to a low pass at an altitude of 5,680 +feet. One gets so tired of the monotonous +scenery that one would give anything to perceive +something attractive; nor is the monotony of +the journey diminished by two other miserable +nagging soldiers who have clung to us as an +escort from Kermanshah, and who are running +after our horses moaning and groaning and +saying they are starved and tired and have not +received their pay nor their food from the +Government for several months.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the pass there is a basin +encircled by mountains, except to the south-east, +where we find an open outlet. The track goes +south-south-east through this yellow plain, and +on proceeding across we find several conical +black mounds with curious patches of a verdigris +colour. To the east rises a low sand dune.</p> + +<p>We come in sight of Shemsh, a most forlorn,<a name="Pg_1-418" id="Pg_1-418"></a> +cheerless place. Sadek gallops ahead with the +<i>horjins</i>, in which he has the cooking pans, some +dead fowls, and a load of vegetables and pomegranates, +and I slow down to give him time to +prepare my lunch. I arrived at the place at +2.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> There was only a desolate caravanserai +and a Chappar khana.</p> + +<p>On the Yezd-Kerman track there are not more +than three horses at each post station—at some +there are only two,—and as I required no less +than five horses, or, if possible, six, I always had +to take on the deficient number of horses from +the previous stations. I generally gave these +horses two or three hours' rest, but it made their +marches very long indeed, as it must be remembered +that on my discharging them they must at +once return to their point of departure. Fortunately, +the traffic was so small by this road that +the horses were in good condition, and so I +was able to proceed at a good rate all along. +Occasionally, one or two horses had to be taken +on for three consecutive stages, which, taking as +an average six farsakhs for each stage, made the +distance they had to travel, including return +journey, six stages, or some 120 miles in all.</p> + +<p>The altitude of Shemsh was 5,170 feet.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-419" id="Pg_1-419"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XLI" id="V1-CHAPTER_XLI"></a>CHAPTER XLI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Desolate scenery—Anar—A word for Persian servants—Sadek's +English—Bayas village—Sand deposits—Robber villagers—Kushkuhyeh +Chappar khana—The post contractor, his +rifle—Cotton cultivation—Fast growing Rafsenju—Trade +tracks—Hindu merchants—Sadek and the Chappar boy—Kafter-han—Photography +and women—A flat, salty stretch +of clay and sand—The Kuh Djupahr peaks—Robat +women—Baghih—Attractive girls—<i>Mirage</i>—Arrival in +Kerman.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">I left</span> Shemsh two hours later, at 4.30, and +we travelled over slightly undulating country +on sandy ground with occasional tracts of stones +and gravel. If possible, this part was even more +desolate than the scenery we had found before +reaching here, and not a vestige of vegetation or +animal life could be detected anywhere. When +night descended upon us we had glorious moonlight +to brighten our way, and we marched on +gaily—this time without the nuisance of an +escort—until we arrived at Anar at 9.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>—seven +farsakhs (about 22 miles) from Shemsh.</p> + +<p>From what one could see during our short +stay in the night there appeared to be a large +village, mostly in ruins, with a few trees and a +mud fort. We had gradually descended here to +4,800 feet. The water was quite good. We<a name="Pg_1-420" id="Pg_1-420"></a> +only allowed ourselves three hours to have our +dinner and sleep, and I ordered the horses to be +ready shortly after midnight.</p> + +<p>And here, whatever other faults they may have, +a word of commendation must be put in for the +endurance of Persian servants. It is all very well +for one's self to do with little sleep, but servants +who will go days and days without any at all, +and without a word of complaint or sign of +collapse, are retainers not easily found and not +to be despised. Certainly, one seldom obtains +such qualities in European servants. After doing +fifty or sixty miles on the saddle we would get +off, and I rested awhile, writing up my notes or, +if at night, changing plates in my cameras, but +Sadek never had any rest at all. No sooner had +we jumped off our horses than he had to undo +the saddles and unpack the baggage and kill +fowls and cook my meals, which all took him +some little time; then he had to wash or clean +up everything and repack, and run about the +villages to purchase provisions, and all this kept +him well employed until the hour of departure; +so that, even when I could put in a couple of +hours' sleep of a night, he never had time to +sleep at all. Sleeping on the saddle, of course, +was usual when we travelled by caravan, but was +impossible when chapparing. So that he had +to go several days at a time without a moment's +wink.</p> + +<p>The remarkable facility with which, under +these trying circumstances, he got most excellent +meals ready at all hours of the day or night and<a name="Pg_1-421" id="Pg_1-421"></a> +in the most outlandish places, and the magic +way in which he could produce fuel and make +a fire out of the most unlikely materials, was +really extraordinary. True, he took himself +and his work most seriously and his pride lay +principally in having no reproach about the +cooking.</p> + +<p>He had a smattering of English that was very +quaint. Everything above ground he called +"upstairs"; anything on the ground or below +was "downstairs." Thus, to mount and dismount +a horse was laconically expressed "horse +upstairs," "horse downstairs." Similarly, to lie +down was "downstairs," to get up "upstairs." +Anything involving violent motion was "shoot," +by which single word to fall, to kick, to bite, to +drop, to jump, to throw away, were defined. +He possessed a good vocabulary of swear words—which +he had learnt from sailors at Bushire—and +these served him well when anything went +wrong; but I forbade him to use them in my +presence as I wished to have the monopoly myself, +and thus his English vocabulary was very +much curtailed. The remainder of his English +conversation applied entirely to cooking chickens.</p> + +<p>Shortly after midnight we moved out of the +Chappar khana, and, barring some slight cultivation +in the immediate neighbourhood of the +village, we soon entered again upon the flat, sandy +desert. We had a lovely full moon over us, +which added to the pleasure of travelling, and we +rode on to Bayas (five farsakhs), some seventeen +or eighteen miles, where we arrived at five in the<a name="Pg_1-422" id="Pg_1-422"></a> +morning. The altitude of this place was exactly +the same as that of Anar, 4,800 feet.</p> + +<p>Bayas is a tiny village with a few mulberry +trees and a small stream of water. It has a fair +caravanserai. We rested the horses for a couple +of hours, while I had breakfast, and by 7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> +we were again in our saddles.</p> + +<p>To the south-west and north-east by east we +again perceived the familiar high sand deposits, all +along the base of the mountain ranges, and they +reached up to two-thirds of the height of the +mountains, forming a smooth, inclined plane +rising very gently from the flat desert on which +we were travelling. To the north-east by east the +sand-banks rose nearly to the summit of the hill +range.</p> + +<p>Sadek and the chappar boy pointed out to me +a village to the north-east of the track, and +informed me that all its inhabitants were robbers +and murderers. In fact upon the road, we came +across a poor boy crying, and bruised all over. +We asked him what was the matter. He pointed +to three men in the distance who were running +away, and said they had beaten him and stolen +his money, two krans, and two pomegranates. +Sure enough, when we galloped to the men and +stopped them they did not wait to be accused +but handed me at once both fruit and money to +be returned to their rightful owner.</p> + +<p>These folks had very brutal faces, framed in +flowing locks of shaggy hair. They were garbed +in long thick coats of white felt, made entirely +of one piece, and quite stiff, with sleeves sticking<a name="Pg_1-423" id="Pg_1-423"></a> +out at the sides, into which the arms were never +to be inserted. There were two red and blue +small circular ornamentations at the bottom of +the coat in front, and one in the centre of the +back, as on Japanese kimonos.</p> + +<p>We began to see more habitations now, and +about one mile north-east of the track we perceived +the villages of Esmalawat, Aliabad, and +Sher-i-fabad,—the latter quite a large place. We +still went on over sand and white salt deposits.</p> + +<p>Poor Sadek was so tired and sleepy that he fell +off his horse a couple of times. The soil got +very stony on getting near Kushkuhyeh (altitude +4,900 feet), where we entered the Chappar khana +exactly at noon.</p> + +<p>The contractor of the postal service lived at +this village, and he was extremely civil. As +many as eight horses were in his stable, and he +ordered that the best should be given me. He +entertained me to tea and took the keenest interest +in my rifles. He also possessed one of the +familiar discarded British Martini military rifles, +specially decorated for the Persian market—a +rifle worth at its most a pound sterling, or two, +but for which he had paid no less than 100 +tomans (about £20). The smugglers of firearms +must have made huge profits on the sale of these +antiquated weapons, for firearms are among the +few articles for which large sums of ready money +can be obtained in Persia.</p> + +<p>This particular man now took a great fancy to +my .256 Mannlicher, and jokingly said he would +not let me proceed until I had sold it to him.<a name="Pg_1-424" id="Pg_1-424"></a> +He produced large sums in solid silver to tempt +me, about four times the value of the rifle, and +was greatly upset when I assured him that I +would not part with the rifle at all.</p> + +<p>When I left, he accompanied me part of the +way, some few hundred yards, and he took with +him his Martini and a belt full of cartridges; his +servant who followed him was also similarly +armed. On inquiring of him why master and +servant loaded themselves with arms and ammunition +to go such a short distance, he replied +that it was not safe for him to go unarmed even +one yard out of his house. One of his friends +had been murdered only a few days before, and +one never knows in Persia when one's turn will +come next. In out-of-the-way places in Persia +private revenge is extremely common, which +generally takes the form of shooting one's adversary +in the back.</p> + +<p>There seemed to be abundance of water at +Kushkuhyeh, and the fields were properly irrigated. +Cultivation seemed prosperous, and vast +cotton plantations were to be seen all round. +When we passed, hundreds of men, women and +children were busy taking in the cotton, and +scores of camels, donkeys, sheep and goats grazing +were dotting the green patch in the landscape. +This gay scene of active life and verdure +was all the more refreshing after the many miles +of sand and gravel and barren hills of which we +had grown so weary since leaving Yezd.</p> + +<p>Two hours were wasted for lunch, and off we +went again. On leaving behind Kushkuhyeh<a name="Pg_1-425" id="Pg_1-425"></a> +we also left behind vegetation, and again we sank +in sand. A few tamarisk shrubs were scattered +here and there on the large plain we were +traversing, bounded on all sides by distant +mountains.</p> + +<p>Three and a half farsakhs (about 13 miles) saw +us at Hemmatawat, a large walled enclosure.</p> + +<p>At 6.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we entered the small town of +Barawamad (Bahramabad)—altitude 5,150 feet—or +Rafsenju as it is called now by its new name. +This is a fast-growing place of quite modern +origin, and it owes most of its prosperity to the +extensive cultivation of cotton, exported from +here direct to the Persian Gulf and India.</p> + +<p>Besides the route on which we are travelling +there are several other tracks leading out of +Barawamad. A minor one runs in a north-easterly +direction, over the Dehring Mountains +to the Seroenan district, where many villages are +to be found, and then turns sharply south-east +<i>viâ</i> Zerend to Kerman. It is also possible, when +once one has crossed into Seroenan, to continue +to Lawah (Rawar) and then, across the Salt +Desert, to Meshed or to Birjand.</p> + +<p>To the Persian Gulf there are three tracks. +One south-west by west to Sher-i-balek, from +which place the traveller has the option to travel +to Bushire (<i>viâ</i> Shiraz) or to Lingah or to Bandar +Abbas <i>viâ</i> Forg. Two different tracks, to Reshitabad +and Bidu, join at Melekabad (south-west) +and these eventually enter the Kerman-Shiraz-Bushire +track; while another track, the most in +use, goes almost due south, direct to Bidu,<a name="Pg_1-426" id="Pg_1-426"></a> +skirting the Pariz Mountains on their westerly +slopes. This track, too, crosses the Kerman-Shiraz +route at Saidabad, and proceeds due south +to Bandar Abbas.</p> + +<p>The few Hindoo merchants of Kerman come +here during the cotton season to make their +purchases and send their goods direct to Bandar +Abbas for shipment to India. Pottery of an +inferior kind is manufactured at Rafsenju.</p> + +<p>We left the Chappar khana at midnight in a +terrific cold wind, and this time on shockingly +bad horses. They were tired and lame, the cold +wind probably intensifying the rheumatic pains +from which most of them were suffering. The +country was undulating and we gradually rose to +5,700 feet. The horses gave us no end of +trouble and we had to walk the greater portion +of the night.</p> + +<p>Sadek, five feet two in height, and the +Chappar boy, six feet two, came to words and +soon after to most sonorous blows. To add to +our comfort, the Chappar boy, who got the +worst of the scrimmage, ran away, and it was +only at sunrise that we perceived him again a +long way off following us, not daring to get too +near. Eventually, by dint of sending him peaceful +messages by a caravan man who passed us, +Sadek induced him to return, and still struggling +in the sand of the desolate country all round us, +and our horses sinking quite deep into it, we +managed to drag men, horses, and loads into +Kafter-han (Kebuter-han)—altitude 5,680 feet—at +8.30 in the morning, where we were glad to<a name="Pg_1-427" id="Pg_1-427"></a> +get relays of fresh steeds. We had gone about +twenty-eight miles from the last station.</p> + +<p>A few mud huts, an ice store-house, a flour +mill, a high building, said to have been an +arsenal, the usual caravanserai, and a dingy +Chappar khana were all, quite all one could rest +one's eye upon at Kafter-han. There was some +cultivation, but nothing very luxuriant. The +few inhabitants were quite interested in the +sudden appearance of a <i>ferenghi</i> (a foreigner). +The women, who were not veiled here, were +quite good-looking, one girl particularly, whose +photograph I snatched before she had time to +run away to hide herself—the usual effect of a +camera on Persian women, quite the reverse to +its effects on the European fair sex.</p> + +<p>We left almost directly on better animals, and +proceeded south-east having lofty rugged hills to +the north-east, east, and south of us, with the +usual high sand accumulations upon their sides. +To the south-east we could just discern the +distant mountains near Kerman. The track +itself, on the sandy embankment at the foot of +the hillside to the south-west, is rather high up +and tortuous, owing to a very long salt marsh +which fills the lower portion of the valley during +the rainy weather and makes progress in a straight +line impossible. But now, owing to the absolute +absence of rain for months and months, the +marsh was perfectly dry and formed a flat white +plastered stretch of clay, sand and salt, as smooth +as a billiard-table, and not unlike an immense +floor prepared for tennis-courts. The dried salt<a name="Pg_1-428" id="Pg_1-428"></a> +mud was extremely hard, our horses' hoofs +leaving scarcely a mark on it. I reckoned the +breadth of this flat, white expanse at one and a +half miles, and its length a little over eleven +miles. Two high peaks stood in front of us to +the south-east, the Kuh Djupahr, forming part +of a long range extending in a south-east direction.</p> + +<p>At a distance of four farsakhs (about thirteen +miles), and directly on the other side of the dried-up +salt stretch, we came to another Chappar khana, +at the village of Robat. There were a good +many women about in front of the huge caravanserai, +and they looked very ridiculous in the tiny +short skirts like those of ballet girls, and not +particularly clean, over tight trousers quite adhering +to the legs.</p> + +<p>We have the same mountains on both sides, +and we continue over undulating ground, the +valley getting somewhat narrower as we proceed +towards Baghih. Six or seven miles from Kafter-han +was Esmaratabad village, a mass of ruins, and +ten miles or so a large village, still in fair preservation, +Sadi, with some vegetation, principally +wheat. The track lay mostly over a stony, +barren desert, with here and there, miles and +miles apart, a forced patch of green.</p> + +<p>Baghih, our last halt before reaching Kerman, +was nine farsakhs from Kafter-han. It stood at +an elevation of 5,740 feet, and had plenty of excellent +water. The village was large, with handsome +walled gardens and nicely-kept wheat-fields +all round. The inhabitants were most affable<a name="Pg_1-429" id="Pg_1-429"></a> +and civil, and the women and children particularly +simple and attractive. The girls were +attired in longer and more graceful skirts than +the damsels of Robat, and did not leave the leg +exposed even as high as the knee. Over it they +had an ample shirt with wide short sleeves, +showing their gracefully modelled and well +rounded arms, adorned with metal bracelets. On +the head was a kerchief neatly bound quite tight +over the head by means of a ribbon.</p> + +<p>It was not possible to get fresh horses here, +and mine were very tired or I would have continued +to Kerman the same evening, completing +the journey from Yezd (220 miles) in three days. +We had arrived early in the afternoon, and had +I not been compelled to take on the tired horses for +the remaining four farsakhs (13 miles) I could +have easily reached Kerman before the gates of +the city were closed at sunset. As it was, I had to +give it up, and had to sleep the night at Baghih, +making an early start on Wednesday, the 30th.</p> + +<p>Baghih is actually south-west of Kerman, and +the track makes this long detour to avoid the +Bademan Mountains to the north. It thus passes +over comparatively level land in the valley between +that range and the Kuh Djupahr, the +track turning here sharply to the north-east, in +which direction, when we get to the highest +point of the track (5,980 feet) one and a half +farsakhs from Baghih, we can almost discern +Kerman in the distance. Except to the north-west +we have high mountains all round, the highest +being the Djupahr to the south-east, and of<a name="Pg_1-430" id="Pg_1-430"></a> +which we now get a most lovely view, and also +of the whole Kerman plain with its innumerable +semi-spherical sand-hills.</p> + +<p>At the foot of the Djupahr below us we see +the two villages of Kheirabad and Akhibarabad, +with many trees and some cultivation round them. +On descending into the Kerman plain we have +deceiving effects of mirage, lovely lakes on both +sides and streams of water, but on the rising of a +gentle breeze, limpid lakes and streams suddenly +disappear, and the whole plain is nothing but a +big undulating stretch of yellow sand, until we +arrive within almost a stone's-throw of the city +gates of Kerman.</p> + +<p>At 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on Wednesday, October the 30th, +I halted at the palatial Chappar khana of Kerman, +just outside the city wall, in a handsome garden, +having accomplished the journey from Yezd in +four days, including halts.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-431" id="Pg_1-431"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XLII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XLII"></a>CHAPTER XLII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Kerman—The <i>Ark</i> or citadel—Civility of the natives—Europeans—The +British Consulate—Major Phillott—H. E. +Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman—Soldiers—Teaching +music to recruits—Preparation for the campaign +against the Beluch—Cloth manufacture.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was my intention to pay my respects to the +British Consul for whom I had letters of introduction +from the Minister at Teheran, and I at +once proceeded through the city, entering first +the "Ark" or citadel, and then the south-west +gate with two side columns of green and blue +tiles in a spiral design and pointed archway, into +the Meidan—a fine rectangular square of great +length and breadth. Sentries posted at the gates +of the city and at the sides of the square saluted, +and also many of the people along the road. +This extraordinary civility was very refreshing in +a country where one only expects extreme rudeness +from the lower classes.</p> + +<p>We entered the vaulted bazaar, the main big +artery of Kerman city, intersected about half-way +by a tortuous street from north to south and by +other minor narrow lanes, and crowded with +people, donkeys, camels and mules; and here,<a name="Pg_1-432" id="Pg_1-432"></a> +too, one was rather surprised to see various +merchants get up in their shops salaaming as I +passed, and to receive a "Salameleko" and a bow +from most men on the way. The bazaar itself, +being in appearance more ancient than those of +Yezd, Isfahan and Teheran, was more alluring +and had many quaint bits. It bore, however, +very much the same characteristics as all other +bazaars of Persia. At the end of it on the +north-east we emerged into an open space with +picturesque awnings, suspended mats, and spread +umbrellas shading innumerable baskets of delicious +green figs, trays of grapes, and pomegranates, +piles of water-melons and vegetables of +all sorts.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-54.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-54_th.jpg" alt="H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace." title="H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace.</p> + +<p>No Europeans live within the wall of Kerman +city itself, and at the time of my visit there were +only four Europeans altogether residing in the +neighbourhood of the town. Two missionaries, +husband and wife; a gentleman who, misled by +representations, had been induced to come from +India to dig artesian wells at great expense—in +a country where the natives are masters at +finding water and making aqueducts—and our +most excellent Consul, Major Phillott, one of +the most practical and sensible men that ever +lived.</p> + +<p>The Consulate was at Zeris or Zirisf, some +little distance to the east of the town. We +passed through a graveyard on leaving the inhabited +district, and had in front of us some +ancient fortifications on the rocky hills to the +south, which we skirted, and then came to some<a name="Pg_1-433" id="Pg_1-433"></a> +huge conical ice-houses—very old, but still in +excellent preservation. We passed the solidly-built +and foreign-looking gateway of the Bagh-i-Zeris, +and a little further at the end of a short +avenue the British flag could be seen flying upon +a gate.</p> + +<p>As I came upon him a ragged infantry soldier, +who, being at his dinner, was busy licking his +fingers, sprang to his feet and made a military +salute. Having passed through a court and a +garden and a series of dismantled rooms I found +myself in the Consulate, where I was greeted +effusively by Major Phillott, who had no idea I +was coming, and who, owing to my being very +much sun-tanned, had at first mistaken me for a +Persian! He would not hear of my remaining +at the Chappar khana, and most kindly sent at +once for all my luggage to be brought up to the +Consulate. The hospitality of Englishmen in +Persia is really unbounded.</p> + +<p>H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, +called on the Consul that same afternoon, and I +was able to present the letter I had brought to +him. Having lived long in Europe Ala-el-Mulk +is a most fluent French scholar, and, being a man +of considerable talent, sense, and honesty he is +rather adverse to the empty show and pomp +which is ever deemed the necessary accompaniment +of high-placed officials in Persia. He can +be seen walking through the town with only a +servant or two, or riding about inspecting every +nook of his city hardly attended at all. This, +curiously enough, has not shocked the natives as<a name="Pg_1-434" id="Pg_1-434"></a> +people feared, but, on the contrary, has inspired +them with intense respect for the new Governor, +whose tact, gentleness, consideration and justice +were fully appreciated by the whole town; so +that, after all, it is pleasant to notice that the +lower classes of Persia have more common sense +and power of differentiation than they have +hitherto been credited with.</p> + +<p>"When I want anything well done," said the +Governor to me, "I do it myself. I want the +welfare of my people and am only glad when I +can see with my own eyes that they get it. I +inspect my soldiers, I see them drilled before +me; I go to the bazaar to talk to the people, +and any one can come to talk to me. Nobody +need be afraid of coming to me; I am ever +ready to listen to all."</p> + +<p>Although this innovation in the system of +impressing the crowds created somewhat of a +sensation at first, the Governor soon managed to +impress the people with his own personality, and +he is now extraordinarily popular among all +classes, except the semi-official, who cannot +carry on their usual extortions with impunity.</p> + +<p>He asked me to go and inspect his troops, +whom he had drilled before his own eyes every +morning, and undoubtedly, of all the soldiers I +had seen in Persia, they were the only ones—barring +the Cossack regiments drilled by Russians—that +had a real military appearance and were +trained according to a method. They were better +dressed, better fed, and more disciplined even +than the soldiers of Teheran.<a name="Pg_1-435" id="Pg_1-435"></a></p> + +<p>The teaching of music to recruits for the band +was quite interesting. The musical notes were +written on a black-board and the young fellows +were made to sing them out in a chorus until +they had learnt the whole melody by heart. +The boys had most musical voices and quite +good musical ears, while their powers of +retention of what they were taught were quite +extraordinary, when it was considered that these +fellows were recruited from the lowest and most +ignorant classes.</p> + +<p>The garrison of Kerman was armed with +Vrandel rifles, an old, discarded European pattern, +but quite serviceable. Anyhow, all the men +possessed rifles of one and the same pattern, +which was an advantage not noticeable in the +Teheran troops, for instance. For Persians, they +went through their drill in an accurate and +business-like manner, mostly to the sound of +three drums, and also with a capital band playing +European brass instruments.</p> + +<p>The Governor took special delight in showing +me several tents which he had had specially +manufactured for his approaching campaign, in +conjunction with British troops from British +Beluchistan, against marauding Beluch tribes +who had been very troublesome for some time, +and who, being so close to the frontier, were able +to evade alike Persian, Beluch, and British law, +until a joint movement against them was made +from west and east. H. E. Ala-el-Mulk told me +that he intended to command the expedition +himself.<a name="Pg_1-436" id="Pg_1-436"></a></p> + +<p>Ala-el-Mulk, a man extraordinarily courteous +and simple in manner, was former Persian Ambassador +in Constantinople. Through no fault +of his own, owing to certain customs prevalent +at the Sultan's court, the Shah during his visit to +Constantinople was unreasonably displeased, and +the Ambassador was recalled. The Governorship +of distant Kerman was given him, but a man like +Ala-el-Mulk, one of the ablest men in Persia, +would be more useful in a higher position nearer +the capital, if not in the capital itself. Kerman +is a very out-of-the-way place, and of no very +great importance just yet, although, if Persia +develops as she should, it will not be many +years from the present time before Kerman +becomes a place of great importance to England.</p> + +<p>However, Ala-el-Mulk is, above all, a philosopher, +and he certainly makes the best of his +opportunities. He has to contend with many +difficulties, intrigue, false dealing, and corruption +being rampant even among some of the +higher officials in the town; but with his +sound judgment and patience he certainly +manages to keep things going in a most satisfactory +manner.</p> + +<p>Besides his official business, and with the aid of +his nephew, he superintends the manufacture, as +we have already seen, of the best, the most characteristically +Persian carpets of the finest quality +and dyes. There are a great many looms in the +buildings adjacent to the Palace and hundreds +of hands employed in the Governor's factories. +He also possesses a good collection of very<a name="Pg_1-437" id="Pg_1-437"></a> +ancient carpets, from which the modern ones +are copied.</p> + +<p>I returned his visit at his Palace, where the +Consul and I were received most cordially and +had a lengthy and most interesting conversation +with his Excellency. Then he showed me all +the buildings in the Ark.</p> + +<p>Kerman is celebrated for its cloth manufacture +and felts. The cloth is of fine worsted, and is +generally in pieces six yards long by three quarters +of a yard wide. It is much used by the +natives, both for hangings and for making clothes +for men and women, being very soft and durable. +Embroidered turbans and kamarbands are made +from these cloths, especially in white cloth, generally +of a fine quality. The process of weaving +these cloths, called inappropriately "Kerman +shawls," is identical with that of the loom +described at the village of Bambis in Chapter +XXXVI. The material used for the best +quality is the selected fine wool, growing next +to the skin of goats. These dyed threads are +cut into short lengths and woven into the fabric +by the supple and agile fingers of the children +working, packed tight together, at the looms. +Some of the best cloths, not more than ten feet +in length, take as long as a month per foot in +their manufacture, and they realise very high +prices, even as much as nine or ten pounds +sterling a yard. The design on the more +elaborate ones is, as in the carpets, learnt by +heart, the stitches being committed to memory +like the words of a poem. This is not,<a name="Pg_1-438" id="Pg_1-438"></a> +however, the case with the simpler and cheaper +ones, which are more carelessly done, a boy +reading out the design from a pattern or a +book.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-55.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-55_th.jpg" alt="Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman." title="Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-56.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-56_th.jpg" alt="Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman." title="Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman.</p> + +<p>The carpet factories of Kerman are very extensive, +the process being similar to that already +described in a previous chapter.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-439" id="Pg_1-439"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XLIII" id="V1-CHAPTER_XLIII"></a>CHAPTER XLIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Madrassah—"Peace on Abraham"—The <i>Hammam</i>—Trade +caravanserais—The Hindoo caravanserai—Parsees—Ancient +fortifications—The Kala-i-Dukhtar, or virgin fort—Speculation—The +Kala-Ardeshir—A deep well—Why +it was made.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A visit</span> to the Madrassah on the north side +of the bazaar was extremely interesting, it being +the best preserved building of that type I had so +far seen in Persia. The Consul and I were +shown round it by the Son of Sirkar Agha, the +head of the Sheikhi sect, a most dignified individual +with long black cloak and ample white +turban, and with a beard dyed as black as ink. +He conversed most intelligently and took great +delight in showing every nook of the building.</p> + +<p>The college is only some ninety years old. Its +courts, its walls, its rooms, its dome, are most +beautifully tiled all over, and, strange to say, it +is kept in good repair and the gardens are well +looked after. There is a handsome lecture-hall, +with four strong receptacles high up in the +corners of the room, and fret-work at the +windows, not unlike Egyptian <i>musharabeahs</i>. +Four very high ventilating shafts are constructed +over the buildings to keep the rooms cool.<a name="Pg_1-440" id="Pg_1-440"></a></p> + +<p>"Peace on Abraham" reads an elaborate +inscription, quoted from the Koran, but applying +in this case, Sirkar Agha's son tells me, to the +founder of the institution. There are other +inscriptions on the towers and ventilating shafts.</p> + +<p>At the time of my visit the number of pupils +was two hundred. The adjoining Hammam +belonging to the College was, to our astonishment, +also shown us. Such baths are underground +and are reached by steps or by a slippery +incline. These particular ones were very superior +and had a beautifully tiled entrance, but the door +itself was small and always kept closed. The +first room was domed with a fountain playing +in the centre and platforms, three feet high +all round, on the matting of which lay spread +a great many cotton towels, red and blue. The +only light came from a centre aperture in the +dome. High earthen jugs stood artistically +resting against one another, and a few people +were dressing or undressing preparatory to taking +or after having taken a bath. This was all that +was done in this room.</p> + +<p>Through a narrow slippery passage we entered +another room, where the steamy heat was considerable. +There were small sections round the +room divided by a wall, like the cells of a +monastery, and in each cell was a tap of cold +water. Then we ascended through a small +aperture into another and warmer room, spacious +enough, but stifling with a sickening acid odour +of perspiration and fumes of over-heated human +skins. The steam heat was so great that one<a name="Pg_1-441" id="Pg_1-441"></a> +saw everything in a haze, and one felt one's +own pores expand and one's clothes get quite +wet with the absorbed damp in the atmosphere +over-saturated with moisture.</p> + +<p>There were two or three men, stripped and +only with a loin cloth, lying down flat on their +backs,—one undergoing massage, being thumped +all over; another having the hair of his head +and beard dyed jet-black. The reason that the +Persian hair-dyes are so permanent is principally +because the dyeing is done at such a high +temperature and in such moist atmosphere which +allows the dye to get well into the hair. When +the same dyes are used at a normal temperature +the results are never so successful. Further, a +third man was being cleansed by violent rubbing. +He needed it badly; at least, judging by the +amount of black stuff that rolled from his skin +under the operator's fingers. The attendants, +too, barring a loin-cloth, were naked.</p> + +<p>With perspiration streaming down my cheeks +I took the photographs here reproduced, and +then proceeded to a yet hotter small room—as +suffocating a place as one may wish to enter in +one's lifetime, or after! One received a positive +scorching blow in the face as one entered it, +the heat was so great. This is the last chamber, +and in a corner is a tap of cold water with which +the skin is repeatedly rinsed and made to sweat +several times until the pores are considered absolutely +clean. There were two people lying down +in a semi-unconscious state, and although I was +only there a few minutes I came out quite limp<a name="Pg_1-442" id="Pg_1-442"></a> +and rag-like. It ruined my watch, and only by +very careful nursing I was able to save my +camera from falling to pieces. On returning to +the previous hot chamber it seemed quite cool +by comparison, and when we emerged again into +the open air, thermometer about 90° in the shade, +one felt quite chilled.</p> + +<p>The various trade caravanserais, of which there +were over a dozen in Kerman on either side of +the main bazaar street, were quite interesting. +They were large courts with high platforms, six +to ten feet high, all round them, the centre well, +enclosed by them, being tightly packed with +camels, mules and donkeys. Above on the broad +platform lay all the packs of merchandise which +had arrived from Birjand and Afghanistan, from +Beluchistan or from India <i>via</i> Bandar Abbas. +The shops and store rooms were neat and had +wood-work in front, with gigantic padlocks of a +primitive make. Some, however, had neat little +English padlocks.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-57.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-57_th.jpg" alt="The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room." title="The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room.</p> + +<p>The most interesting to us, but not the most +beautiful, was the Hindoo caravanserai, where +some forty British Hindoo merchants carried on +their commerce. The place looked old and +untidy, and the shops overcrowded with cheap +articles of foreign make, such as are commonly +to be seen in India,—paraffin lamps, knives, +enamelled ware, cotton goods, indigo, tea, sugar +and calicos being prominent in the shops. The +piece goods come mostly from Germany and +Austria, the cottons from Manchester.</p> + +<p>The Hindoos were very civil and entertained<a name="Pg_1-443" id="Pg_1-443"></a> +us to tea, water melon, and a huge tray of sweets, +while a crowd outside gazed at the unusual sight +of Europeans visiting the caravanserais. The +merchants said that the trade in cotton, wool, +gum and dates was fairly good, and that, taking +things all round, matters went well, but they had +a great many complaints—they would not be +Hindoos if they had not—of petty quarrels to be +settled among themselves and with the Persians. +These, of course, arose mostly out of matters of +money. They seemed otherwise quite jolly and +happy, notwithstanding the exaggerated hats and +curious costumes they are compelled to wear, so +that they may be distinguished at a glance from +the Persians themselves.</p> + +<p>Here, too, as has been already said, there is a +small Parsee community of about 3,000 souls. +They are, however, rather scattered nowadays, +and are not so prominent as in Yezd.</p> + +<p>The side streets leading out of the bazaar are +narrow and dingy, covered up in places with +awnings and matting. There is very little else +worth seeing in the city, but the many ruins to +the east of the town and the ancient fortifications +are well worth a visit.</p> + +<p>It is to the east of the city that the ancient +fortifications are found, on the most western +portion of the crescent-shaped barrier of mountains. +According to some natives the smaller +fort, the Kala-i-Dukhtar, or Virgin fort, on the +terminal point of the range, at one time formed +part of ancient Kerman. The fort, the Kala-i-Dukhtar +is on the ridge of the hill, with a fairly<a name="Pg_1-444" id="Pg_1-444"></a> +well-preserved castellated wall and a large doorway +in the perpendicular rock at the end of the +hill range.</p> + +<p>In a long semicircular wall at the foot of the +hill a row of niches can be seen, but whether +these made part of an ancient stable for horses, +or were used for other purposes, I could not +quite ascertain. Some people said that they were +a portion of a <i>hammam</i>; others said they might +have been cells of a prison, but what remained +of them was not sufficient to allow one to come +to a satisfactory conclusion.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-58.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-58_th.jpg" alt="The Hot Room in a Persian Bath." title="The Hot Room in a Persian Bath." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Hot Room in a Persian Bath.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-59.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-59_th.jpg" alt="The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort." title="The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort.</p> + +<p class="figcenter">(Kala Ardeshir on summit of mountain) Kerman.</p> + +<p>The outside wall of the fort was very high, +and had strong battlements and towers. Inside +the lower wall at the foot of the hill was a moat +from twenty-five to thirty feet wide and fifteen +feet deep. The upper wall went along the +summit of two ridges and was parallel to the +lower one, which had four large circular turrets, +and extended down to and over the flat for some +120 yards. There was another extensive but +much demolished fortress to the east of this +on the lower part of the hill range, guarding +the other side of the entrance of the pass, and +this, too, had two large walled enclosures in the +plain at its foot. A great many fragments of +pottery with angular geometrical patterns and +small circles upon them were to be found here +and in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The fort of Kala-i-Dukhtar is attributed by +the people to King Ardishir, and is one of the +three mentioned by Mukaddasi in the tenth +century, who, in describing the city of Bardasir,<a name="Pg_1-445" id="Pg_1-445"></a> +unmistakably identified with the present Kerman, +speaks of the three famous impregnable castles—the +<i>Hisn</i> defended by a ditch, evidently the one +above described, directly outside the city gate, +and the old castle, the Kala-i-Kuh, on the crest +of the hill. It has been assumed that the third +castle mentioned by Mukaddasi, was where the +<i>Ark</i> or citadel is now, but personally I doubt +whether this is correct. The citadel, the +residence of the present Governor, is to my mind +of much more recent origin. There is every +sign to make one doubt whether Kerman +extended in those days as far west as the citadel, +which to-day occupies the most western point +outside the city; whereas in the accounts of +Mukaddasi one would be led to understand that +the third fortress was well within the city near a +great mosque. In Persian chronicles, too, the +Hill Castle, the old, and the new castles are +often referred to, but personally I believe that +these three castles were adjoining one another +on the same chain of hills.</p> + +<p>An ascent to the Kala Ardeshir well repays +the trouble of getting there. It is not possible +to reach the Castle from the south side, where +the rocky hills are very precipitous, and even +from the north it is not easy of access. On the +north-west side, facing the British Consulate, there +is a somewhat narrow and slippery track in the +rock along a ravine, by which—in many places +"on all fours"—one can get up to the top.</p> + +<p>The gateway is very much blocked with sand, +but squeezing through a small aperture one can<a name="Pg_1-446" id="Pg_1-446"></a> +get inside the wall, within which are several +small courts, and a series of tumbled-down small +buildings. In the walls can still be seen some of +the receptacles in which grain and food were +formerly stored.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-60.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-60_th.jpg" alt="Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman." title="Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman.</p> + +<p>Although the exterior of the castle, resting +on the solid rock and built of sun-dried bricks so +welded together by age as to form a solid mass, +appears in fair preservation from a distance, when +one examines the interior it is found to be in a +dreadful state of decay. The courts and spaces +between the walls are now filled up with sand. +There is a well of immense depth, bored in the +rock, the fort standing some five hundred feet +above the plain; but although this is said by some +writers to have been a way of escape from this +fortress to as distant a place as Khabis, some forty-five +miles as the crow flies to the east of Kerman, +I never heard this theory expounded in Kerman +itself, but in any case, it is rather strange that +the well should have been made so small in +diameter as hardly to allow the passage of a +man, its shaft being bored absolutely perpendicular +for hundreds and hundreds of feet and +its sides perfectly smooth, so that an attempt +to go down it would be not a way of escape +from death, but positive suicide. The well was +undoubtedly made to supply the fort with water +whenever it became impracticable to use the +larger wells and tanks constructed at the foot of +the hills within the fortification walls.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_1-447" id="Pg_1-447"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V1-CHAPTER_XLIV" id="V1-CHAPTER_XLIV"></a>CHAPTER XLIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The deserted city of Farmidan—More speculation—The +Afghan invasion—Kerman surrenders to Agha Muhammed +Khan—A cruel oppressor—Luft-Ali-Khan to the rescue—The +Zoroastrians—Mahala Giabr—Second Afghan invasion—Luft-Ali-Khan's +escape—Seventy thousand human +eyes—Women in slavery—Passes—An outpost—Fire +temples—Gigantic inscriptions—A stiff rock climb—A +pilgrimage for sterile women—A Russian picnic—A Persian +dinner—Fatabad—The trials of abundance—A Persian +menu—Rustamabad—Lovely fruit garden.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> very large deserted city of Farmidan lies +directly south of the mountainous crescent on +which are found the fortifications described in +the previous chapter. The houses of the city do +not appear very ancient, their walls being in excellent +preservation, but not so the domed roofs +which have nearly all fallen in. The houses are +entirely constructed of sun-dried mud bricks, now +quite soldered together by age and reduced into +a compact mass. A few of the more important +dwellings have two storeys, and all the buildings +evidently had formerly domed roofs. In order +that the conformation of each house may be +better understood, a plan of one typical building +is given. On a larger or smaller scale they all<a name="Pg_1-448" id="Pg_1-448"></a> +resembled one another very closely, and were not +unlike the Persian houses of to-day.</p> + +<p>There was a broad main road at the foot of +the mountains along the southern side of which +the city had been built, with narrow and tortuous +streets leading out of the principal thoroughfare. +Curiously enough, however, this city appeared +not to have had a wall round it like most other +cities one sees in Persia. It is possible that the +inhabitants relied on taking refuge in the strength +and safety of the forts above, but more probable +seems the theory that Farmidan was a mere +settlement, a place of refuge of the Zoroastrians +who had survived the terrible slaughter by Agha +Muhammed Khan.</p> + +<p>It may be remembered that when the Afghan +determined to regain his throne or die, he came +over the Persian frontier from Kandahar. He +crossed the Salt Desert from Sistan, losing thousands +of men, horses and camels on the way, and +with a large army still under his command, +eventually occupied Kerman.</p> + +<p>Kerman was in those days a most flourishing +commercial centre, with bazaars renowned for +their beauty and wealth, and its forts were well +manned and considered impregnable. So unexpected, +however, was the appearance of such +a large army that the inhabitants made no resistance +and readily bowed to the sovereignty of +Agha Muhammed. They were brutally treated +by the oppressors. Luft-Ali-Khan hastened from +the coast to the relief of the city, and fiercely +attacked and defeated the Afghan invader, who<a name="Pg_1-449" id="Pg_1-449"></a> +was compelled to retreat to Kandahar; but +Kerman city, which had undergone terrible +oppression from the entry of the Afghans, fared +no better at the hands of the Persians. The +Zoroastrians of Kerman particularly were massacred +wholesale or compelled to adopt the +Mahommedan religion.</p> + +<p>It is not unlikely—although I assume no +responsibility for the statement—that at that +time the Zoroastrians, who were still numerous +in Kerman, driven from their homes by the +invading Afghan and Persian armies, settled +a few miles from the city, unable to proceed +further afield owing to the desolate nature of the +country all round. With no animals, no means +of subsistence, it would have been impossible for +them with their families to go much further +<i>en masse</i> in a country where food and even +water are not easily obtainable. The name of +the town—Farmidan—also would point to the +conclusion that it had been inhabited by Fars, +and the age attributed to the city by the natives +corresponds roughly with the epoch of the +Afghan invasion.</p> + +<p>To the north of Kerman city we have another +similar settlement, now deserted, Mahala-Giabr +(a corruption of Guebre), of which there is little +doubt that it was inhabited by Zoroastrians. One +of the reasons that these cities are now deserted +may be found in the fact that Agha Muhammed, +having raised another army in Afghanistan, proceeded +a second time to the conquest of Persia. +The Zoroastrians, who had fared worse at the<a name="Pg_1-450" id="Pg_1-450"></a> +hands of Luft-Ali-Khan than under the Afghan +rule, were persuaded to join Agha Muhammed +against their Perso-Arab oppressors, in hopes of +obtaining some relief to their misery, but history +does not relate what became of them. They +were never heard of again. One fact only is +known, that very few of those living in Kerman +at the time succeeded in escaping massacre. +That previous to this the Zoroastrians must have +been very numerous in Kerman can be judged +by the remains of many fire-temples to be seen, +especially in the neighbourhood of the city.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-61.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-61_th.jpg" alt="Ruined Houses of Farmitan." title="Ruined Houses of Farmitan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Ruined Houses of Farmitan.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-62.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-62_th.jpg" alt="Plan of House at Farmitan." title="Plan of House at Farmitan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Plan of House at Farmitan.</p> + +<p>In his second invasion of Persia Agha Muhammed +again reached Kerman in 1795 and +besieged the city defended by Luft-Ali-Khan. +The inhabitants, who had suffered at the hands +of their saviours as much if not more than at +those of their oppressors, made a half-hearted +resistance and eventually, in the thick of the +fighting, the city gates were opened by treachery. +Luft-Ali-Khan and a handful of his faithful men +fought like lions in the streets of the city, but at +last, seeing that all hope of victory had vanished, +and forsaken by most of his men, Luft-Ali-Khan +rode full gallop in the midst of the Afghans. +According to chronicles, he defiantly ran the +gauntlet with only three followers, and they +were able to force their way through the Kajar +post and escape to Bam-Narmanshir, the most +eastern part of the Kerman province, on the +borders of Sistan.</p> + +<p>Agha Muhammed demanded the surrender of +Luft-Ali-Khan; the city was searched to find<a name="Pg_1-451" id="Pg_1-451"></a> +him, and when it was learned that he had succeeded +in effecting an escape, the wrath of the +Afghan knew no bounds. The people having +declared that they could not find Luft-Ali, he +ordered 70,000 eyes of the inhabitants to be +brought to him on trays, and is said to have +counted them himself with the point of a dagger. +But this punishment he believed to be still too +lenient. A general massacre of the men was +commanded, and no less than 20,000 women and +children were made into slaves. To this day the +proverbially easy morals of the Kerman women +are attributed to the Afghan invasion, when the +women became the concubines of soldiers and +lost all respect for themselves; and so is the importation +of the dreadful disease which in its +most virulent form is pitifully common in a +great portion of the population of the present +Kerman city. According to some the city was +razed to the ground, but whether this was so or +not, there is no doubt that Kerman has never +recovered from the blow received, and from the +subsequent oppression at the hands of this barbarous +conqueror.</p> + +<p>In the south-west part of the mountainous +crescent are three very low passes, by which the +hill range can be crossed. One pass between the +Kala-i-Dukhtar and the Kala-Ardeshir forts; one +between the Kala-Ardeshir and the ruins south +of it along the southern continuation of the +range; and the third at the most southern point +of the crescent, where the precipitous rocky hill-ranges +are separated by a narrow gap, level with<a name="Pg_1-452" id="Pg_1-452"></a> +the flat plains on either side. One can still see +the remains of a ruined wall on the east side of +this entrance, a round, outpost mud turret, with +other buildings and a large walled enclosure +directly outside the pass on the flat to the south; +while on the lower slope of the eastern mountain +stands a tall square building, now roofless, +erected on a strong quadrangular base with +corner turrets. It has three pointed arch doorways +(east, west, south), almost as tall as the +building itself, and by the side of these are found +high and broad windows in couples. This +building appears to be of a much more recent +date than the underlying castle filled up with +earth on which it stands. It has rather the +appearance of a fire temple.</p> + +<p>On going through the pass we find ourselves +in the centre basin formed by the mountainous +crescent, and here we have another deserted +settlement smaller than Farmidan, also to all +appearance not more than a century old, and +directly under the lee of the precipitous rocky +mountains. A high building of a rich burnt-sienna +colour, with a dome of stone and mortar—the +latter said to have been mixed with camel's +milk, which gives the mortar greater consistency—is +to be seen here. This, too, is supposed to +have been a fire temple. Its base is quadrangular, +with two tiers of three windows each. A small +lateral wall is next to the entrance, but nothing +is to be seen in the interior except the bare walls.</p> + +<p>East of this, on the face of the cliff and several +hundred feet above the valley, one is shown a<a name="Pg_1-453" id="Pg_1-453"></a> +gigantic inscription, "Ya Ali," in white characters +depicted on the rock. The letters are so big +that they can be seen from Kerman, about three +miles off. This is a pilgrimage well worth +making, for they say every wish of those who +climb up to the inscription will come true. Two +qualities are required—a very steady head and the +agility of a monkey. The angle of the rock is +very steep,—almost vertical, as can be seen on the +left side of the photograph, which I took from +the site of the inscription looking down upon +the ruined city and the whole Kerman plain. +The only way by which,—on all fours,—one can +climb up is so worn, greasy and slippery, owing +to the many pilgrims who have glided up and +down, that it is most difficult to get a grip on the +rock.</p> + +<p>Yet the going-up is much easier than the +coming down. The full-page illustration shows +the man who accompanied me just about to +reach the inscription,—I took the photograph as +I clung to the rock just below him, as can be +seen from the distortion of his lower limbs +caused by my being unable to select a suitable +position from which to take the photograph. +We were then clinging to the rock with a drop +below us in a straight line of several hundred +feet.</p> + +<p>We reached the inscription safely enough, +and sat on the edge of the precipice—the +only place where we could sit—with our legs +dangling over it. Screened as we were in +deep shadow, we obtained a magnificent bird's-<a name="Pg_1-454" id="Pg_1-454"></a>eye +view of the Kerman plain, brilliantly lighted +by the morning sun, and of the forts to our left +(south-west) and the many ruins down below +between ourselves and Kerman city. A bed of +a stream, now dry, wound its way from these +mountains to almost the centre of the plain, +where it lost itself in the sand beyond a cluster of +ruined buildings. Undoubtedly at some previous +time this torrent carried a good volume of water +to the village, and this accounts for the deserted +settlement being found there.</p> + +<p>The letters of the inscription were ten feet +high, painted white.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-63.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-63_th.jpg" alt="A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman." title="A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman.</p> + +<p class="figcenter">Photograph of Guide taken by the Author on reaching the Inscription several hundred feet above the plain.</p> + +<p>The man who had climbed up with me +related an amusing incident of the occasion when +H. E. the Governor of the city was persuaded +to climb to inspect the inscription. Hauled up +with the assistance of ropes and servants, he +became so nervous when he reached the +inscription and looked down upon the precipice +below that he offered a huge reward if they +took him down again alive. Although otherwise +a brave man he was unaccustomed to +mountaineering, and owing to the great height, +had been seized with vertigo and was absolutely +helpless and unable to move. With considerable +difficulty he was hauled down and safely conveyed +to his palace.</p> + +<p>The descent presented more difficulty than +the ascent, and one's shoes had to be removed to +effect it in more safety. Eventually we reached +the bottom again where, in a gully is a small +ruined temple and a mud hut or two.<a name="Pg_1-455" id="Pg_1-455"></a></p> + +<p>A great many women, who from this point +had been watching us come down along the face +of the cliff, stampeded away, giggling, at our +approach, and on my asking why so many +representatives of the fair sex were to be found +here—there were lots more dotting the landscape +below in their white or black chudders, all converging +towards this point—it was explained +that, a few yards off, was a rock possessing +marvellous properties. The rock in question +forms part of the mountain-side, and in its +natural formation coarsely suggests, much +magnified, the effigy of a component of feminine +anatomy. At the foot of it there was an +inscription and certain offerings, while above it, +in a recess, a large wax candle was burning. +Near this stone a stunted tree was to be seen, +laden with bits of red and white rags and various +kinds of hair—a most unedifying sight.</p> + +<p>This is a well-known pilgrimage for sterile +women, who, after certain exorcisms in front of +and on the divine stone, and a night or two +spent in the neighbouring ruins, are said infallibly +to become prolific. The neighbouring ruins, it +should be added, are the favourite night resort of +the Kerman young men in search of romantic +adventure, and a most convenient rendezvous for +flirtations; but whether the extraordinary qualities +of prolificness are really due to the occult power +of the magic stone or to the less mystic charms +of nights spent away from home, the reader is no +doubt better able to discriminate than I. Judging +by the long strings of ladies of all ages to be<a name="Pg_1-456" id="Pg_1-456"></a> +seen going on the pilgrimage, one would almost +come to the conclusion that half the women of +Kerman are in a bad plight, or else that the +other half only is a good lot!</p> + +<p>Much unsuspected amusement was provided +to the natives by a Russian political agent who +had visited Kerman a few weeks before I did, +with the intention—it was stated—of starting +a Consulate there and a caravanserai to further +Russian trade. Previous to his departure, +attracted merely by the lovely view from the +pilgrimage stone, and absolutely unaware of +what misconstruction might be placed on his +hospitality, the Russian gave a picnic at this spot +to the tiny European community of Kerman. +Needless to say, the evil-minded Persians of +course put a wrong construction upon the whole +thing, and a good deal of merriment was caused +among the natives—who may lack many other +qualities, but not wit—by the sahibs going <i>en +masse</i> to the pilgrimage.</p> + +<p>The Russian picnic was the talk of the bazaar +when I was there, and will probably remain so +for some little time.</p> + +<p>We will now leave ruins and puzzling pilgrimages +alone, and will accept an invitation to a +substantial Persian dinner with Hussein-Ali-Khan, +known by the title of Nusrat-al-Mamalik, +and probably the richest man in the province of +Kerman. At great expense and trouble, this +man bought an English carriage, for the pleasure +of driving in which he actually made a road +several miles long. He kindly sent the carriage<a name="Pg_1-457" id="Pg_1-457"></a> +for the Consul and me to drive to his place, and +had relays of horses half-way on the road so that +we could gallop the whole way. He has planted +trees all along the new road, and brought water +down from the hills by a canal along the roadside +in order to provide sufficient moisture to make +them grow.</p> + +<p>When we reached Fatabad—that was the +name of the village close to which our host's +country residence stood—we alighted at a most +beautiful avenue of high trees on either side of a +long tank of limpid water, in which gracefully +floated dozens of swans and ducks. We were +met at the gate by our host, a charming old +fellow, and his son, Mahommed Ali Khan, a +most intelligent young man. Surrounded by a +crowd of servants we were shown round the +beautiful garden, with its rare plants from all +parts of the world, its well-cared-for flowers, +and its fruit trees of every imaginable kind. +There was a handsome house built in semi-European +style and with European furniture in +it. On a table in the dining-room were spread +a great many trays of sweets. After the usual +compliments dinner was brought in by a long +row of attendants, who carried tray after tray +full of delicacies, part of which they deposited on +the table, the rest on the floor.</p> + +<p>Our host, with much modesty, asked us to sit +at the table, and he and his Persian friends sat +themselves on the floor. We—the Consul, the +two other Englishmen, residents of Kerman, and +myself, however—declined to take advantage of<a name="Pg_1-458" id="Pg_1-458"></a> +his offer and declared that we should all sit on +the floor in the best Persian style, an attention +which was greatly appreciated by our host and +by his friends.</p> + +<p>It was with some dismay that I saw more +trays of food being conveyed into the room, until +the whole floor was absolutely covered with +trays, large and small, and dishes, cups and +saucers, all brim-full of something or other to +eat.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-64.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-64_th.jpg" alt="A View of the Kerman Plain from the Ya Ali Inscription." title="A View of the Kerman Plain from the Ya Ali Inscription." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A View of the Kerman Plain from the "Ya Ali" Inscription.</p> +<p class="figcenter">(How steep the ascent to the inscription is can be seen by the mountain side on left of observer.)</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-65.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-65_th.jpg" alt="Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women." title="Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women.</p> + +<p>Persian food of the better kind and in moderation +is not at all bad nor unattractive. It is quite +clean,—cleaner, if it comes to that, than the +general run of the best European cooking. The +meat is ever fresh and good, the chickens never +too high—in fact, only killed and bled a few +minutes before they are cooked; the eggs +always newly laid in fact, and not merely in +theory, and the vegetables ever so clean and +tasty. As for the fruit of Central and Southern +Persia, it is eminently excellent and plentiful.</p> + +<p>The Persians themselves eat with their fingers, +which they duly wash before beginning their +meals, but we were given silver forks and spoons +and best English knives. Really to enjoy a Persian +meal, however, one's fingers are quite unapproachable +by any more civilised device.</p> + +<p>The most sensible part of a Persian meal is its +comparative lack of method and order, anybody +picking wherever he likes from the many dishes +displayed in the centre of the room and all round +him; but any one endowed with digestive organs +of moderate capacity feels some apprehension at<a name="Pg_1-459" id="Pg_1-459"></a> +the mountains of rice and food which are placed +before one, and is expected to devour. A European +who wants to be on his best behaviour +finds the last stages of a Persian dinner a positive +trial, and is reminded very forcibly of the terrible +fable of the frog that tried to emulate the cow. +To show the reader to what test of expansion +one's capacity is put, no better evidence can be +given than a faithful enumeration of the viands +spread before us at the dinner here described, all +of which we were made to taste.</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Persian dinner"> +<tr><td align='left'>Qalam palājō</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Cabbage pilao.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chilā-ō</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>White rice with a soupçon of butter.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Khurish-i-murgh-i-bādinjān</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Stew of chicken with tomatoes.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kabāb-i-chūja</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Broiled chicken.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Shāmī</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Meat sausages.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dulmayi qalam</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Meat wrapped in cabbage leaves with onions and beans.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Āb-gūsht</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Soup with a lump of meat.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Halwa</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>A dish of honey, pistache, and camel's milk.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kū-kū</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Omelette of eggs and vegetables.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mushta</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Rissoles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mast</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Curds.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kharbuza</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Melon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Panīr</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Cheese.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Turb</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Radishes.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pista</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Pistachio nuts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ānār</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Pomegranates.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Zabān-i-gaw</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Green bombes.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Turshī</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Pickles of all sorts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rishta</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>White and green vermicelli cakes.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Murabba bihi</td><td align='left'>=</td><td align='left'>Preserved gum.</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>To these must be added the numerous sweets +of which one has to partake freely before dinner.<a name="Pg_1-460" id="Pg_1-460"></a> +Through dinner only water is drunk, or nothing +at all, but before and after, tea—three-quarters +sugar and one quarter tea, with no milk,—is +served, and also delicious coffee.</p> + +<p>The capacity of Persians is enormous, and on +trying to emulate it we all suffered considerably. +So pressing were our hosts to make us eat some +of this and some of that, and to taste some of the +other, that by the time we had finished we were +all in a semi-conscious state. An attendant +passed round a brass bowl and poured upon our +fingers, from a graceful amphora, tepid water +with rose-leaf scent. Then our host very considerately +had us led to the upper floor of the +building to a deliciously cool room, wherein were +soft silk broad divans with velvet pillows. Five +minutes later, one in each corner of the room, +we were all fast asleep. It is the custom in +Persia to have a siesta after one's meals—one +needs it badly when one is asked out to dinner. +So for a couple of hours we were left to ourselves, +while our hosts retired to their rooms. Then +more tea was brought, more coffee, more sweets.</p> + +<p>We paid an interesting visit to the village of +Fatabad, the older portion of which, formerly +called Rustamabad, had from a distance the appearance +of a strongly fortified place. It had a +high broad wall with four circular towers at the +corners, and quite an imposing gateway. The +interior of the village was curious, the habitations +being adjacent to the village wall all round, +and each room having a perforated dome over it. +There was spacious stabling on one side for<a name="Pg_1-461" id="Pg_1-461"></a> +horses, and several irregular courts in the centre of +the village. A long wall stretched from this village +to the Fatabad gardens and palatial dwelling of +Hussein-Ali-Khan, and on one side of this wall +were nicely kept wheat fields, while on the other +lay a capital fruit garden.</p> + +<p>In the new village of Fatabad, directly outside +the wall of Rustamabad, there were but few +houses, with an interesting underground hammam, +with water coming from natural mineral springs +brought here from the village of Ikhtiyarabad, +some little distance off. Behind this village, to +the west, a barrier of high rugged hills closed +the horizon before us, and made the view a most +delightfully picturesque one.</p> + +<p>In the evening, in the same grand carriage, +we were again conveyed back to Kerman, as I +intended to start at midnight on my journey +across the Great Salt Desert.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill1-66.jpg"><img src="./images/ill1-66_th.jpg" alt="Sketch Map Showing Route Followed by Author and Principal Tracks between Kum and Kerman (Persia)." title="Sketch Map Showing Route Followed by Author and Principal Tracks between Kum and Kerman (Persia)." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Sketch Map Showing Route Followed by Author and Principal Tracks between Kum and Kerman</span> (Persia).</p> + +<p class="figcenter">Drawn by A. Henry Savage Landor.</p> + +<hr /> +<h4>END OF VOL. I</h4> + + +<h5>RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.</h5> + +<hr /> + +<h2><a name="V2"></a>ACROSS COVETED LANDS</h2> + +<h3>OR</h3> + +<h2>A JOURNEY FROM FLUSHING (HOLLAND) +TO CALCUTTA, OVERLAND</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR</h2> + +<h3><i>WITH 175 ILLUSTRATIONS, DIAGRAMS, PLANS AND MAPS</i></h3> +<h3><i>BY AUTHOR</i></h3> + +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES</h3> +<h3>VOL. II</h3> + +<h4>London</h4> +<h4>MACMILLAN AND CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span></h4> +<h4>1902</h4> + +<h5><i>All rights reserved</i></h5> + +<p><a name="V2-Frontispiece" id="V2-Frontispiece"></a></p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Author's Servants."> +<tr><td align='center'><a href="./images/ill2-001.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-001_th.jpg" alt="Mahommed Hussein." title="Mahommed Hussein." /></a></td><td align='center'><a href="./images/ill2-002.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-002_th.jpg" alt="Sadek." title="Sadek." /></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Mahommed Hussein.</span></td><td align='center'><span class="smcap">Sadek.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'>(Author's Servants.)</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p><a name="Pg_2-iv" id="Pg_2-iv"></a></p> + +<h5><span class="smcap">Richard Clay and Sons, Limited,</span></h5> +<h5><span class="smcap">london and bungay</span></h5> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-v" id="Pg_2-v"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="V2-LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="V2-LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of illustrations - Volume II"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>To face page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mahommed Hussein and Sadek (Author's Servants)</td><td align='right'><a href="#V2-Frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-6">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan and Others Halting in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan in the Salt Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ali Murat Making Bread</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wolves in Camp</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Camel Men in their White Felt Coats</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camel Men saying their Prayers at Sunset</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Camels being Fed in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Trail we left behind in the Salt Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-54">54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Author's Caravan Descending into River Bed near Darband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Habitations, Naiband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Village of Naiband, and Rock Dwellings in the Cliff</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Young Men of an Oasis in the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Man and Child of the Desert</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Naiband Barber Stropping a Razor on his Leg</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Woman of Naiband</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fever Stricken Man at Fedeshk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Citadel, Birjand</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The City of Birjand, showing main street and river bed combined</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Women Visiting Graves of Relatives, Birjand. (Ruined Fort can be observed on Hill.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-110">110</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Desert. (Tamarisks in the Foreground.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-118">118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Women at Bandan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dr. Golam Jelami and his Patients</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a><a name="Pg_2-vi" id="Pg_2-vi"></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Main Street, Sher-i-Nasrya (Showing centre of City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-144">144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The British Bazar (Husseinabad), Sistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Wall of Sher-i-Nasrya at Sunset</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-156">156</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sar-tip</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-162">162</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan (Belgian Customs Officer in foreground)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Sistan Consulate on Christmas Day, 1901</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-174">174</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Major R. E. Benn, British Consul for Sistan, and his Escort of 7th Bombay Lancers</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-186">186</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Citadel of Zaidan, the Great City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-202">202</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Zaidan West Towers and Modern Village</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-204">204</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Towers of the Citadel, Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>S.E. Portion of Zaidan City, showing how it disappears under distant sand accumulations</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Double Wall and Circular Unroofed Structures, Zaidan. In the distance high sand accumulations above City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Zaidan Fortress</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Graveyard of Zaidan City</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>East View of the Zaidan Citadel</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Figure we dug out at Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arabic Inscription and marble columns with earthenware lamps upon them.<br />Fragment of water-pipe.<br />Stone implements.<br />Brick wall of the "Tombs of Forty Saints" showing in top corners of photograph.</td><td align='right' valign='bottom'><a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arabic Inscription on Marble dug by Author at the City of Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Inscription dated 1282, found in the "Tomb of Forty Saints," Zaidan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Ornament above four lines of Koran on Grave Stone</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transfer of Ornamentations on Marble Grave</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Presumed Summits of Towers buried in Sand, Zaidan (Notice top of Castellated Wall behind.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sketch Plan of Zaidan Citadel, by A. Henry Savage Landor</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-228">228</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sketch Map of Summit of Kuh-i-Kwajah, by A. Henry Savage Landor</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-238">238</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dead Houses and Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a><a name="Pg_2-vii" id="Pg_2-vii"></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Family Tomb (Eight Compartments) on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter"</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The "Gandun Piran" Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Bird's Eye View of Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter"</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-246">246</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sher-i-Rustam. (Rustam's City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Stable of Rustam's Legendary Horse</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Gate of Rustam's City, as seen from Rustam's House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-262">262</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Remains of the Two Upper Storeys of Rustam's House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-266">266</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rustam's City, showing Rustam's House in Citadel, also domed roofs blown in from the north</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-268">268</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plan of Sher-i-Rustam</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-270">270</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (West portion of City under the lee of wall)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-272">272</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House (South-east section of City)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-274">274</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Saïd Khan, Duffadar and Levies at the Perso-Beluch Frontier Post of Robat</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-294">294</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Musicians (at Sibi)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-298">298</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Dance (at Sibi)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-304">304</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Beluch-Afghan Boundary Cairn and Malek-Siah Mountains in Background</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-306">306</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Deseet'">Desert</ins></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-310">310</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Black Tents at Mahommed Raza Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Pillar between Kirtaka and Saindak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-314">314</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sand Hills</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-318">318</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Caravan of Donkeys in Afghanistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-320">320</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In Afghanistan. Who are you?</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Thana and New Bungalow at Saindak. (Saindak Mt. in Background.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Prisoners at Saindak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-326">326</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Interior of Rest House, Mukak</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Rest House at Sahib Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Windmill at Mushki Chah</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Three Beluch who would not be Photographed!</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a><a name="Pg_2-viii" id="Pg_2-viii"></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ziarat at Chah Sandan. (Belind Khan Salaaming)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Desert covered with Gypsum, near Sotag</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Circular Mesjid, with Tomb and Outer Kneeling Place</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-364">364</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mesjid on the Site where a Man had been Killed between Kishingi and Morad Khan Kella</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-364">364</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Type of Thana and New Bungalow between Nushki and Robat</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-368">368</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Nushki-Robat Track</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-372">372</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Beluch Family</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-382">382</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Huts thatched with Palm Leaves and Tamarisk</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-394">394</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Circular Ziarat with Stone, Marble and Horn Offerings</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-398">398</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ziarat with Tomb showing Stone Vessels</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-398">398</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Mesjid and Graveyard at Dalbandin</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-402">402</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kuchaki Chah Rest House</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Old Beluch Mud Fort near Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Huts and Weaving Loom</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-416">416</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cave Dwellers, Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-416">416</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Badini Sardar</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Salaam of the Beluch Sardars at Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The New City of Nushki (overlooking the Tashil Buildings.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-426">426</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jemadar and Levies, Nushki</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Giant Beluch Recruit. (Chaman.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Track between Nushki and Kishingi</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-432">432</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Taleri (Kanak). The new type of Rest House between Nushki and Quetta</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beluch Boys off to the Races—Horse Fair at Sibi</td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Map at the End of Volume.</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Pg_2-446">446</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-1" id="Pg_2-1"></a></p> +<h2>ACROSS COVETED LANDS</h2> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_I" id="V2-CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Difficulties of crossing the Great Salt Desert—The trials of +arranging a caravan—The ways of camel-men—A quaint +man of the Desert—A legal agreement—Preparations for +the departure—"Kerman" and "Zeris," my two Persian +kittens and travelling companions—Persian cats—The +start—The charms of camel riding—Marching among +mountains.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">My</span> intention was to cross the Salt Desert in an +almost easterly direction by the route from +Khabis to Neh, which seemed the most direct +route from Kerman to the Afghan frontier, but +on mentioning my project to the Consul and his +Persian assistant, Nasr-el Khan, they dissuaded +me from attempting it, declaring it impossible to +get across in the autumn. Why it was impossible +I could not quite ascertain, each man from +whom I inquired giving a different reason, but +the fact remained that it was impossible. The +Governor of Kerman, all the highest officials in +the town, told me that it could not be done till +three or four months later, when the Afghan<a name="Pg_2-2" id="Pg_2-2"></a> +camels would come over, laden with butter, by +that route. Even faithful Sadek, whom I had +despatched to the bazaar to get camels at all +costs, returned with a long face after a whole +day's absence, and for the first time since he was +in my employ had to change his invariable +answer of "Sahib, have got," to a bitterly disappointing +"Sahib, no can get."</p> + +<p>A delay was predicted on all hands of at least +a month or two in Kerman before I could +possibly obtain camels to cross the desert in +any direction towards the east. The tantalising +trials of arranging a caravan were not small.</p> + +<p>I offered to purchase camels, but no camel +driver could be induced to accompany me. +Offers of treble pay and bakshish had no effect, +and I found myself in a serious dilemma when a +camel man appeared on the scene. His high +terms were then and there accepted, everything +that he asked for was conceded, when suddenly, +probably believing that all this was too good to +come true, he backed out of the bargain and +positively refused to go. Had I chosen to go +by the southern route, skirting the desert <i>via</i> +Bam, the difficulty would not have been so great, +but that route is very easy, and had been followed +by several Europeans at different times, and I +declined to go that way.</p> + +<p>I was beginning to despair when Sadek, who +had spent another day hunting in the various +caravanserais, entered my room, and with a +broad grin on his generally stolid countenance, +proclaimed that he had found some good camels.<a name="Pg_2-3" id="Pg_2-3"></a> +To corroborate his words a clumsy and heavy-footed +camel man, with a face which by association +had become like that of the beasts he led, +was shoved forward into the room.</p> + +<p>He was a striking figure, with an ugly but +singularly honest countenance, his eyes staring +and abnormally opened, almost strained—the +eyes of a man who evidently lived during the +night and slept during the day. His mouth +stretched, with no exaggeration, from ear to ear, +and displayed a double row of powerful white +teeth. What was lacking in quantity of nose +was made up by a superabundance of malformed, +shapeless ears, which projected at the sides of +his head like two wings. When his legs were +closed—<i>pour façon de parler</i>—they were still +some six inches apart, and a similar space was +noticeable between each of his arms and his +body. Unmistakably this fellow was the very +picture of clumsiness.</p> + +<p>He seemed so much distracted by the various +articles of furniture in the Consul's room that +one could get no coherent answer from him, and +his apprehension gave way to positive terror +when he was addressed in flowing language by +the various high officials who were then calling +on the Consul. Their ways of persuasion by +threats and promises alarmed the camel man to +such an extent that his eyes roamed about all +over the place, palpably to find a way to effect +an escape. He was, however, so clumsy at it, +that the consul's servants and soldiers checked +him in time, and Sadek broke in with one of<a name="Pg_2-4" id="Pg_2-4"></a> +his usual flows of words at the top of his voice, +which, however, could hardly be heard amid the +vigorous eloquence of the Persians present, who +all spoke at the same time, and at an equally +high pitch.</p> + +<p>With a sinking heart I closely watched the +camel man, in whom rested my faint and last +hope of crossing the Salt Desert. He looked +so bewildered—and no wonder—almost terror-stricken, +that when he was asked about his +camels, the desert, the amount of pay required, +he sulkily mumbled that he had no camels, +knew nothing whatever about the desert, and +did not wish to receive any pay.</p> + +<p>"Why, then, did you come here?"</p> + +<p>"I did not come here!"</p> + +<p>"But you are here."</p> + +<p>"I want to go away."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sahib," cried the chorus of Persians, +"he has the camels, he knows the desert; only +he is frightened, as he has never spoken to a +sahib before."</p> + +<p>Here a young Hindoo merchant, Mul Chan +Dilaram, entered the room, and with obsequious +salaams to the company, assured me that he had +brought this camel man to me, and that when he +had got over his first fears I should find him an +excellent man. While we were all listening to the +Hindoo's assurances the camel man made a bolt +for the door, and escaped as fast as he could lay +his legs to the ground towards the city.</p> + +<p>He was chased by the soldiers, and after some +time was dragged back.<a name="Pg_2-5" id="Pg_2-5"></a></p> + +<p>"Why did you run away?" he was asked.</p> + +<p>"Sahib," he replied, almost crying, "I am +only a man of the desert; my only friends are +my camels; please have pity on me!"</p> + +<p>"Then you have camels, and you do know +the desert; you have said so in your own +words."</p> + +<p>The camel man had to agree, and on being +assured that he would be very well paid and +treated, and have a new pair of shoes given him, +and as much tea brewed for him on the road, +with as much sugar in it as his capacity would +endure, he at last said he would come. The +Hindoo, with great cunning, at once seized the +hand of the camel man in his own and made +him swear that death should descend upon himself, +his camels and his family if he should break +his word, or give me any trouble. The camel +man swore. An agreement was hastily drawn +up before he had time to change his mind, and a +handsome advance in solid silver was pressed into +his hands to make the agreement good and to +allay his feelings. When requested to sign the +document the camel man, who had sounded +each coin on the doorstep, and to his evident +surprise found them all good, gaily dipped his +thumb into the inkstand and affixed his natural +mark, a fine smudge, upon the valuable paper, +and licked up the surplus ink with his tongue. +The man undertook to provide the necessary +camels and saddles, and to take me across the +Salt Desert in a north-easterly direction, the +only way by which, he said, it was possible to<a name="Pg_2-6" id="Pg_2-6"></a> +cross the <i>Lut</i>, the year having been rainless, and +nearly all the wells being dry. It would take +from twenty-two to twenty-six days to get +across, and most of the journey would be waterless +or with brackish water. Skins had to be +provided to carry our own supply of water.</p> + +<p>A whole day was spent in preparing for the +journey, and when November 4th came, shortly +before midnight my provisions were packed +upon my camels, with an extra load of fowls +and one of fruit, while on the hump of the last +camel of my caravan were perched, in a wooden +box made comfortable with straw and cotton-wool, +two pretty Persian kittens, aged respectively +three weeks and four weeks, which I had +purchased in Kerman, and which, as we shall +see, lived through a great many adventures and +sufferings, and actually reached London safe and +sound, proving themselves to be the most wonderful +and agreeable little travelling companions +imaginable. One was christened "Kerman," +the other "Zeris."</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-003.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-003_th.jpg" alt="Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings." title="Kerman and Zeris, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Kerman and Zeris</span>, the two Kittens who accompanied Author on his wanderings.</p> + +<p>The Persian cat, as everybody knows, possesses +a long, soft, silky coat, with a beautiful tail and +ruff, similar to the cats known in Europe as +Angora, which possess probably longer hair on +the body. The Persian cats, too, have a longer +pencil of hair on the ears than domestic cats, and +have somewhat the appearance and the motions +of wild cats, but if properly treated are gentleness +itself, and possess the most marvellous intelligence. +Unlike cats of most other nationalities, +they seem to enjoy moving from place to place,<a name="Pg_2-7" id="Pg_2-7"></a> +and adapt themselves to fresh localities with the +greatest ease. If fed entirely on plenty of raw +meat and water they are extremely gentle and +affectionate and never wish to leave you; the +reason that many Persian cats—who still possess +some of the qualities of wild animals—grow +savage and leave their homes, being principally +because of the lack of raw meat which causes +them to go ahunting to procure it for themselves. +The cat, it should be remembered, is a +carnivorous animal, and is not particularly happy +when fed on a vegetable diet, no more than we +beef-eating people are when invited to a vegetarian +dinner.</p> + +<p>Isfahan is the city from which long-haired +Persian cats, the <i>burak</i>, are brought down to the +Gulf, and from there to India, but the Kerman +cats are said by the Persians themselves to be the +best. The white ones are the most appreciated +by the Persians; then the blue (grey) ones with +differently coloured eyes, and the tabby ones. +Mine were, one perfectly white, the other tabby.</p> + +<p>At midnight I said good-bye to Major Phillott, +whose kind hospitality I had enjoyed for four +days, and began my slow and dreary march on +camel-back. Swung too and fro till one feels +that one's spine is breaking in two, we wound +our way down from the Consulate at Zeris, +skirted the town, now asleep and in a dead +silence, and then turned north-east among the +barren Kupayeh Mountains.</p> + +<p>We had a fine moonlight, and had I been on +a horse instead of a camel I should probably<a name="Pg_2-8" id="Pg_2-8"></a> +have enjoyed looking at the scenery, but what +with the abnormal Persian dinner to which I +had been treated in the afternoon (see Vol. I.)—what +with the unpleasant swing of the camel +and the monotonous dingle of the camels' bells—I +became so very sleepy that I could not keep +my eyes open.</p> + +<p>There is very little style to be observed about +riding a camel, and one's only aim must be to be +comfortable, which is easier said than done, for +camels have so many ways of their own, and +these ways are so varied, that it is really difficult +to strike a happy medium.</p> + +<p>Sadek had made a kind of spacious platform +on my saddle by piling on it carpets, blankets, +and a mattress, and on the high butt of the +saddle in front he had fastened a pillow folded +in two.</p> + +<p>As we wended our way along the foot of one +hill and then another, while nothing particularly +striking appeared in the scenery, I thought I +would utilise what comfort I had within reach, +and resting my head on the pillow, through +which one still felt the hard wooden frame of +the saddle, and with one leg and arm dangling +loose on each side of the saddle, I slept soundly +all through the night. Every now and then the +camel stumbled or gave a sudden jerk, which +nearly made one tumble off the high perch, but +otherwise this was really a delightful way of +passing the long dreary hours of the night.</p> + +<p>We marched some nine hours, and having +gone over a low pass across the range, halted<a name="Pg_2-9" id="Pg_2-9"></a> +near a tiny spring of fairly good water. Here +we were at the entrance of an extensive valley +with a small village in the centre. Our way, +however, lay to the south-east of the valley +along the mountains. We were at an elevation +of 6,300 feet, or 800 feet above Kerman.</p> + +<p>The heat of the day was so great that we +halted, giving the camels a chance of grazing on +what tamarisks they could find during day-light, +for indeed camels are troublesome animals. They +must not eat after sundown or it makes them ill. +They are let loose on arrival at a camp, and they +drift away in search of lichens or other shrubs. +At sunset they are driven back to camp, where +they kneel down and ruminate to their hearts' +content until it is time for the caravan to start. +The heavy wooden saddles with heavy padding +under them are not removed from the camel's +hump while the journey lasts, and each camel +has, among other neck-ornaments of tassels and +shells, one or more brass bells, which are useful +in finding the camels again when strayed too far +in grazing.</p> + +<p>We left at midnight and crossed the wide +valley with the village of Sar-es-iap (No. 1) four +miles from our last camp. Again we came +among mountains and entered a narrow gorge. +The night was bitterly cold. We caught up a +large caravan, and the din of the camels' bells +and the hoarse groans of the camels, who were +quite out of breath going up the incline, made +the night a lively one, the sounds being magnified +and echoed from mountain to mountain.<a name="Pg_2-10" id="Pg_2-10"></a></p> + +<p>Every now and then a halt had to be called +to give the camels a rest, and the camel men +spread their felt overcoats upon the ground and +lay down for five or ten minutes to have a sleep. +Then the long string of camels would proceed +again up the hill, the camels urged by the +strange cries and sing-songs of the men.</p> + +<p>This part of the journey being mountainous, +one came across three little streams of water, and +at each the camel man urged me to drink as +much as I could, because, he said, the time will +come when we shall see no water at all for days +at a time.</p> + +<p>We were gradually rising, the camels panting +dreadfully, and had got up to 7,100 feet when +we camped near the village of Kalaoteh—a few +small domed hovels, a field or two, and a cluster +of trees along a brook. We were still among +the Kupayeh Mountains with the Kurus peak +towering directly above us.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-11" id="Pg_2-11"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_II" id="V2-CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Fifty miles from Kerman—Camels not made for climbing hills—The +Godar Khorassunih Pass—Volcanic formation—Sar-es-iap—A +variegated mountain—A castle—Rock +dwellings—Personal safety—Quaint natives—Women and +their ways—Footgear.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> November 6th we were some fifty miles +from Kerman. Again when midnight came +and I was slumbering hard with the two kittens, +who had made themselves cosy on my blankets, +the hoarse grunts of the camels being brought +up to take the loads woke me up with a start, +and the weird figure of the camel-man stooped +over me to say it was time to depart.</p> + +<p>"Hrrrr, hrrrr!" spoke the camel-man to each +camel, by which the animals understood they +must kneel down. The loads were quickly +fastened on the saddles, the kittens lazily +stretched themselves and yawned as they were +removed from their warm nooks, and Sadek +in a moment packed up all my bedding on my +saddle.</p> + +<p>We continued to ascend, much to the evident +discomfort of the camels, who were quite unhappy +when going up or down hill. It was<a name="Pg_2-12" id="Pg_2-12"></a> +really ridiculous to see these huge, clumsy +brutes quite done up, even on the gentlest +incline. The track went up and up in zigzag +and curves, the cries of the camel-drivers were +constantly urging on the perplexed animals, and +the dingle of the smaller bells somewhat enlivened +the slow, monotonous ding-dong of the +huge cylindrical bell—some two and a half feet +high and one foot in diameter—tied to the load +of the last camel, and mournfully resounding in +the valley down below.</p> + +<p>And we swung and swung on the camels' +humps, in the beautiful starlight night—the +moon had not yet risen—on several occasions +going across narrow passages with a drop under us +of considerable depth, where one earnestly hoped +the quivering legs of the timid camels would not +give way or perchance stumble. The higher +we got the more the camels panted and roared, +and the cries of the drivers were doubled.</p> + +<p>One farsakh and a half from our last camp, +we reached at 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the top of the Godar +Khorassunih Pass (8,400 ft.), and we had to +halt for a while to let the camels rest. The +cold was bitter. Camels and men were trembling +all over. Then came the descent.</p> + +<p>Camel riding is comfortable at no time. It is +passable on the flat; just bearable going up hill, +but dreadful going down a fairly steep incline. +The wretched beasts assumed a kind of hopping, +jerky motion on their front legs, with a good +deal of spring in their knees, which bumped the +rider to such an extent that it seemed almost as<a name="Pg_2-13" id="Pg_2-13"></a> +if all the bones in one's body began to get disjointed +and rattle. When the camel happened +to stumble among the rocks and loose stones the +sudden jerk was so painful that it took some +seconds to recover from the ache it caused in +one's spine.</p> + +<p>The moon rose shortly after we had gone over +the pass, as we were wending our way from one +narrow gorge into another, between high rocks +and cliffs and mountains of most fantastic forms. +We passed the little village of Huruh, and at +dawn the picturesqueness of the scenery increased +tenfold when the cold bluish tints of the moon +gradually vanished in the landscape, and first the +mountains became capped and then lighted all +over with warm, brilliant, reddish tints, their +edge appearing sharply cut against the clear, +glowing, golden sky behind them.</p> + +<p>We were now proceeding along a dry, wide +river bed, which had on one side a tiny stream, +a few inches broad, of crystal-like water dripping +along. Evident signs could be noticed that +during the torrential storms of the rainy season +this bed must occasionally carry large volumes of +water. A foot track can be perceived on either +side some twelve feet above the bed, which is +followed by caravans when the river is in +flood.</p> + +<p>We now entered a volcanic region with high +perpendicular rocks to our right, that seemed as +if they had undergone the action of long periods +of fire or excessive heat; then we emerged into +a large basin in which the vegetation struck one<a name="Pg_2-14" id="Pg_2-14"></a> +as being quite luxuriant by contrast with the +barren country we had come through. There +were a few old and healthy trees on the edge of +the thread of water, and high tamarisks in profusion. +On our left, where the gorge narrowed +again between the mountains, was a large flow of +solid green lava. In this basin was a quaint little +hamlet—Sar-es-iap (No. 2)—actually boasting of +a flour-mill, and curious rock dwellings which the +natives inhabit.</p> + +<p>We continued, and entered a broader valley, +also of volcanic formation, with reddish sediments +burying a sub-formation of yellowish brown +rock which appeared in the section of the mountains +some 300 feet above the plain. To the +W.N.W. stood a lofty variegated mountain, the +higher part of which was of dark brown in a +horizontal stratum, while the lower was a +slanting layer of deep red.</p> + +<p>In the valley there was some cultivation of +wheat, and I noticed some plum, apple, fig and +pomegranate trees. One particularly ancient +tree of enormous proportions stood near the +village, and under its refreshing shade I spent +the day. The village itself—a quaint castle-like +structure with ruined tower—was curiously built +in the interior. On the first storey of the large +tower were to be found several humble huts, and +other similar ones stood behind to the north. +These huts were domed and so low as hardly to +allow a person to stand erect inside. Some had +an opening in the dome, most had only a single +aperture, the door. The majority of the in<a name="Pg_2-15" id="Pg_2-15"></a>habitants +seemed quite derelict and lived in the +most abject poverty.</p> + +<p>A few yards north-east of the castle were +some rock habitations. There were three large +chambers dug in the rock side by side, two of +one single room and one of two rooms <i>en suite</i>. +The largest room measured twenty feet by +twelve, and was some six feet high. In the +interior were receptacles apparently for storing +grain. The doorway was quite low, and the +heat inside suffocating. Curiously enough, one +or two of these chambers were not quite +straight, but formed an elbow into the mountain +side.</p> + +<p>At the sides of the row of cliff dwellings were +two smaller doors giving access to storehouses +also dug in the rock. I was told that the natives +migrated to this village during the winter months +from October till one month after the Persian +New Year, while they spend the remainder of +the year higher up on the mountains owing to +the intense heat. Firewood, which is scarce, is +stored piled up on the top of roofs, whence a +little at a time is taken down for fuel, and +prominent in front of the village was a coarse +and well-fortified pen for sheep. Wolves were +said to be plentiful in the neighbourhood, and as +I was sitting down writing my notes a shepherd +boy ran into the tower to say that a wolf had +killed one of his sheep.</p> + +<p>Both from men and beasts there seemed to be +little safety near the village, according to the +natives, who invariably took their old-fashioned<a name="Pg_2-16" id="Pg_2-16"></a> +matchlocks with them when they went to work +in their fields, even a few yards away from the +castle.</p> + +<p>One peculiarity of this village, which stood at +an altitude of 6,180 feet, was that nobody seemed +to know its name. The people themselves said +that it had no name, but whether they were +afraid of telling me, in their suspicions that some +future evil might come upon them or for other +reasons, I cannot say.</p> + +<p>The natives were certainly rather original in +their appearance, their ways and speech, and as I +comfortably sat under the big tree and watched +them coming in and out of the castle-village, +they interested me much. Donkeys in pairs +were taken in and out of the gate to convey +manure to the fields, and old men and young +came in and out carrying their long-poled +spades and matchlocks. Even little boys were +armed.</p> + +<p>The men reminded one very forcibly, both in +features and attire, of the figures in ancient +Egyptian sculptures, of which they were the +very image. They wore felt skull caps, the side +locks of jet black hair cut straight across. They +had clean-shaven necks and lumpy black beards. +Their tall bodies were slender, with short waists, +and their wiry feet showed beneath ample +trousers—so ample as almost to approach a +divided skirt. The children were pretty, and +although miserably clothed looked the very +picture of health and suppleness.</p> + +<p>The women, of whom a number sat the whole<a name="Pg_2-17" id="Pg_2-17"></a> +day perched on the domed roofs of their huts to +watch the doings of the <i>ferenghi</i>, showed their +faces fully, and although professing to be Mussulman +made no attempt whatever at concealment. +They wore picturesque light blue and red +kerchiefs on the head and shoulders, falling +into a point behind, and held fast in position +round the skull by a small black and blue +turban. A pin held the two sides of the +kerchief together under the chin. The women +were garbed in short, pleated blue skirts reaching +just below the knee, and a short loose coat of +the same cotton material with side slits and +ample sleeves. They had bare legs, well proportioned +and straight, with handsome ankles +and long, well-formed feet and toes. When +working they went about bare-footed, but when +their daily occupations were finished put on small +slippers.</p> + +<p>They were particularly to be admired when +they walked, which they did to perfection, looking +most attractively picturesque when carrying +jugs of water on the head. The head had to be +then kept very erect, and gave a becoming curve +to the well-modelled neck and a most graceful +swing to the waist. A long black cloak, not +unlike a <i>chudder</i>, was worn over the head after +sunset when the air was turning cold.</p> + +<p>The women did all the hard work and seemed +to put their whole soul into it. Some gaily +spun wool on their wheels, and others worked at +small, neat, but primitive weaving looms which +were erected on the top storey of the castle.<a name="Pg_2-18" id="Pg_2-18"></a></p> + +<p>Affectionate mothers carefully searched the +hair of the heads of their children—to remove +therefrom all superfluous animal life,—but to +my dismay I discovered that their good-nature +went so far as not to destroy the captured brutes, +which were merely picked up most gently, so +as not to injure them, and flung down from the +castle-village wall, on the top of which this +operation took place. As there were other +people sitting quite unconcerned down below, +no doubt this provided a good deal of perpetual +occupation to the women of the castle, and the +parasites were provided with a constant change +of abode.</p> + +<p>Probably what astonished me most was to see +a young damsel climb up a tall tree in the best +monkey fashion, with successively superposed +arms and legs stiff and straight, not round the +tree, mind you, and using her toes for the purpose +with almost equal ease as her fingers.</p> + +<p>The foot-gear of the men was interesting. +They wore wooden-soled clogs, held fast to the +foot by a string between the big toe and the +next, and another band half way across the foot. +Some of the men, however, wore common shoes +with wooden soles.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-19" id="Pg_2-19"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_III" id="V2-CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An abandoned caravanserai—Fantastic hill tops—No water—A +most impressive mountain—Sediments of salt—A dry river +bed—Curious imprints in the rock—A row—Intense heat—Accident +to our supply of eggs—The end of a meeting—Misleading +maps—Haoz Panch—The camel-man's bread—Lawah.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Again</span> we left camp shortly before midnight, and +ascended continually between mountains until we +reached a pass 7,250 ft. above the sea, after which +we came upon the abandoned caravanserai of +Abid (pronounced Obit). On descending, the +way was between high vertical rocks, and then +we found ourselves among hills of most peculiar +formation. The sun was about to rise, and the +fantastic hill-tops, in some places not unlike +sharp teeth of a gigantic saw, in others recalled +Stonehenge and the pillar-like remains of temples +of Druids. In this case they were, of +course, entirely of natural formation. Although +there was no water in the valley into which we +had descended, we camped here owing to the +camels being very tired, and I took the opportunity +of climbing to a neighbouring hill (6,300 +ft.) in order to obtain a panoramic view of the +surrounding country.</p> + +<p>To the South-East, whence we had come, were<a name="Pg_2-20" id="Pg_2-20"></a> +low and comparatively well-rounded mountains +with two narrow valleys separated by a flat-topped, +tortuous hill range. To the north-east of my +camp was a high and most impressive mountain, +the upper portion of which appeared at first +almost of a basaltic formation, with vertical +quadrangular columns, while the lower portion +of the mountain, evidently accumulated at a later +period, and slanting at an angle of 45°, displayed +distinct strata of light brown, a deep band of +grey, then dark brown, light brown, a thin layer +of grey, and then a gradation of beautiful warm +burnt sienna colour, getting richer and richer in +tone towards the base. Here at the bottom, all +round the mountain, and in appearance not unlike +the waves of a choppy sea in shallow water, rose +hundreds of broken-up, pointed hillocks, the +point of each hillock being invariably turned in +a direction away from the mountain, and these +were formed not of sand, but by a much broken-up +stratum of black, burnt slate, at an angle of +20° in relation to an imaginary horizontal plane.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-004.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-004_th.jpg" alt="Author's Caravan and Others Halting in the Desert." title="Author's Caravan and Others Halting in the Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Caravan and Others Halting in the Desert.</p> + +<p>It was most curious to find these enormous +layers of black slate here, for they were quite +different in character from the whole country +around. About two miles further off, north-east, +we had, for instance, a range of mountains +of quite a different type, not at all broken up +nor with sharp cutting edges, but quite nicely +rounded off. Between this range and the high +peculiar mountain which I have just described—in +the flat stretch—were to be seen some curious +hillocks, apparently formed by water.<a name="Pg_2-21" id="Pg_2-21"></a></p> + +<p>N.N.E. was the way towards Birjand, first +across a long flat plain bounded before us by low +greyish hills, beyond which a high mountain-range—the +Leker Kuh—towered sublime. Two +mountain masses of fair height stood in front of +this range, one N.N.E. on the left of the track, +the other N.N.W., with a white sediment of salt +at its base; while beyond could be distinguished +a long flat-topped mountain with a peculiar white +horizontal band half way up it, like a huge chalk +mark, all along its entire length of several miles. +This mountain appeared to be some thirty miles +off. The mountain mass to the N.W. showed no +picturesque characteristics, but a more broken-up +mountain, somewhat similar to the one to our +N.E., stood between my camp and the range +beyond.</p> + +<p>As I have already stated, we had come along a +dry river bed, and from my high point of vantage +I could see its entire course to the north-west. +It ran in a tortuous manner until it absolutely +lost itself in the flat desert. The long snake-like +hill-range separating the parallel valleys from +south-east to north-west appeared to owe its +formation to the action of water, the surface +pebbles, even at the summit of it, being well +rounded and worn quite smooth, many with +grooves in them.</p> + +<p>Near my camp I came across some very curious +imprints in the hard rock, like lava. There +were some rocks hollowed out, in a fantastic +way, as if the hollows had been formed by some +softer matter having been enclosed in the rock<a name="Pg_2-22" id="Pg_2-22"></a> +and having gradually disappeared, and also a +perfect cast of a large tibia bone. On other +rocks were footprints of large animals, evidently +made when the lava was soft.</p> + +<p>On returning to camp I found a general row +going on between Sadek and the camel men—my +own and those of the other caravan who had +asked permission to travel with me. There was +no water at this camp, and only salt water could +be procured in small quantities some distance +away. The intense heat had played havoc with +some of my fresh provisions, and we unfortunately +had an accident to the load of eggs which were +all destroyed. A great many of the chickens, +too, had gone bad, and we were running rather +short of fresh food. The caravan men said that +it was impossible to go on, because, this being +such a dry year, even the few brackish wells +across the desert would be dry, and they refused +to come on.</p> + +<p>The greater part of the evening was spent in +arguing—everybody except myself shouting himself +hoarse. At midnight, the usual hour of our +departure, the camel men refused to pack the +loads and continue across the desert. At 1 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> +they were preparing to leave me to return +to Kerman. At 1.30, my patience being on the +verge of being exhausted, they most of them +received a good pounding with the butt of my +rifle. At 1.45, they having come back to their +senses, I duly entertained each of them to a cup +of tea, brewed with what salt water we had got, +on a fire of camel dung, and at 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we pro<a name="Pg_2-23" id="Pg_2-23"></a>ceeded +on our course as quietly as possible as if +nothing had happened.</p> + +<p>We still followed the dry river bed among +hills getting lower and lower for about three +miles on either side of us, and at last we entered +a vast plain. We went N.N.W. for some twelve +miles, when by the side of some low hillocks of +sand and pebbles we came upon a caravanserai, and +an older and smaller structure, a large covered tank +of rain water (almost empty) which is conveyed +here from the hills twelve miles off by means of +a small canal.</p> + +<p>To the S.S.E. we could still see the flat-topped +mountain under which we had camped the +previous day, and all around us were distant mountains. +The flat plain stretching for miles on +every side had deep grooves cut into it by water +flowing down from the mountain-side during the +torrential rains and eventually losing themselves +in the sand.</p> + +<p>On the English and some of the German maps +these dry grooves are marked as large and important +rivers, but this is a mistake. There is +not a drop of water in any of them at any time +of the year except during heavy storms, when the +drainage of the mountains is immediately carried +down by these channels and lost in the desert. It +is no more right to mark these channels as rivers +than it would be to see Piccadilly marked on a +map of London as a foaming torrent because +during a heavy shower the surplus water not +absorbed by the wood pavement had run down +it half an inch deep until the rain stopped.<a name="Pg_2-24" id="Pg_2-24"></a></p> + +<p>To the N.E. we saw much more clearly than +the day before the extensive salt deposits at the +base of the mountains, and to the N.N.E. a +grey mountain with a fluted top. A high +mountain mass stretched from the South to the +North-West and then there was a wide +opening into another flat sandy plain. Far, far +beyond this a distant range of high mountains +could hardly be distinguished, for a sand-storm +was raging in that direction and veiled the view +with a curtain of dirty yellowish grey.</p> + +<p>This caravanserai, called Haoz Panch (or +"Fifth water") altitude 5,050 feet—was built +by some charitable person to protect caravans +during sand-storms, and also to supply them with +water, which was quite drinkable, if one were +not too particular, and if one did not look at it. +The caravanserai, very solidly built, was left to +take care of itself, there being no one in charge +of it. The <i>kilns</i> erected to bake the bricks with +which the caravanserai had been built, still stood +near it.</p> + +<p>It is rather curious to notice what effect a +drink of fair water has on the temper of one's +men. My camel man, Ali Murat, for that was +his name, was in high spirits and came to fetch +me to show me how he made his bread, for he +was keen to know whether camel men(!) in my +country made it the same way! I reserved my +answer until I had seen his process.</p> + +<p>The hands having been carefully washed first, +flour and water, with great lumps of salt, were +duly mixed together in a bowl until reduced into<a name="Pg_2-25" id="Pg_2-25"></a> +fairly solid paste. A clean cloth was then +spread upon the ground and the paste punched +hard upon it with the knuckles, care having been +taken to sprinkle some dry flour first so that the +paste should not stick to the cloth. When this +had gone on for a considerable time the paste +was balanced upon the knuckles and brought +gaily bounding to where the hot cinders remained +from a fire of camel dung which had +previously been lighted. The flattened paste +was carefully laid upon the hot ashes, with +which it was then covered, and left to bake for +an hour or so.</p> + +<p>When ready, Ali Murat brought me a piece +of the bread to try—which I reluctantly did so +as not to offend his feelings.</p> + +<p>"Do camel men in your country, Sahib, make +as good bread as this when they cross the <i>lut</i> +(desert)?" inquired Ali Murat, with an expectant +grin from ear to ear.</p> + +<p>"We have no camel men in my country, and +no camels, and no <i>lut</i>! How could we then get +as good bread as yours?" (Really, when one +tried to forget the process of making it, which +did not quite appeal to one, the bread was not +bad.)</p> + +<p>"You have no camels, sahib,—no <i>lut</i>—in your +country?" exclaimed Ali, with his eyes fast +expanding with surprise; "Why, then, did you +come here?"</p> + +<p>"We have so much scenery in my country +that I thought I would come here for a +change."<a name="Pg_2-26" id="Pg_2-26"></a></p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-005.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-005_th.jpg" alt="Author's Caravan in the Salt Desert." title="Author's Caravan in the Salt Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Caravan in the Salt Desert.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-006.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-006_th.jpg" alt="Ali Murat Making Bread." title="Ali Murat Making Bread." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Ali Murat Making Bread.</p> + +<p>We left the caravanserai at 11.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on +November 9th and travelled across the plain all +through the night. About 4 miles from Haoz +Panch we found an ancient mud caravanserai +abandoned and partly ruined. We had the hills +quite close on our right and we came across a +good many dry channels cut by water. We +travelled on the flat all the time, but we passed +on either side a great many low mounds +of sand and gravel. There was absolutely +nothing worth noticing in the night's journey +until we came to the small villages of Heirabad +and Shoshabad, eighteen miles from our +last camp. Two miles further we found ourselves +at Lawah (Rawar)—altitude 4,430 feet—a +very large oasis with a small town of some +three thousand mud huts and ten thousand inhabitants, +according to native accounts.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-27" id="Pg_2-27"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_IV" id="V2-CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Lawah or Rawar—A way to Yezd—The bazaar—Trade—Ruined +forts—Opium smoking and its effects—Beggar's +ingenious device—In a local gentleman's home—The +Tokrajie—Buying fresh provisions—Water skins—An +unhealthy climate—A fight—When fever is contracted—Wolves +in camp—Fever stricken—A third cat purchased.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Lawah</span> or Rawar is, in a way, quite an important +centre. It is the last place one passes +before entering the Salt Desert proper, on the +border of which it is situated, and is, therefore, +the last spot where provisions and good water +can be obtained. It has a certain amount of +local trade and is connected with Yezd by a very +tortuous track <i>via</i> Bafk-Kuh-Benan. It has no +possible resting place, and we therefore camped +just outside the town. The natives were not +particularly friendly and seemed inclined to give +trouble. There was considerable excitement +when we crossed the town in the morning on +our arrival, and even more when I went to +inspect the city alone in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>There was nothing to see, the bazaar in the +place being one of the most miserable looking +in Persia. It was not domed over like those of +other Persian cities, but the streets were merely<a name="Pg_2-28" id="Pg_2-28"></a> +covered with rafters supporting brush wood and +rotten mats. There were no shops proper, but +various merchants, and brass-smiths, fruit-sellers, +or sellers of articles for caravans, had a certain +amount of cheap goods within their habitation +doors.</p> + +<p>More quaintly interesting were the commercial +caravanserais, or small squares with +receptacles all round for travelling merchants +to display their goods upon. Lawah's trade is +principally a transit trade, the caravans which +occasionally come through the desert taking an +opportunity of selling off some of their goods +here, as also, of course, do those that come from +Yezd or Kerman.</p> + +<p>There is some cultivation of wheat and cotton +in the immediate neighbourhood, and of fruit, +which is quite excellent. The water is not very +plentiful, as can be seen by the hundreds of +borings for water and disused <i>kanats</i> to the north +of the city, where most fields are to be found, +while the majority of fruit gardens and trees are +to the east.</p> + +<p>Here, as everywhere else in Persia, a great +portion of the town is uninhabited and in ruins, +and to the south-west, outside the inhabited part, +can be seen an interesting ruined quadrangular +castle with a double wall and moat with an +outer watch tower besides the corner turrets. +Inside this castle was formerly a village. Another +smaller fort, also in ruins, is situated to the +S.S.W.</p> + +<p>There are a great many palm trees within<a name="Pg_2-29" id="Pg_2-29"></a> +the place, and they produce good dates. The +climate is most unhealthy, fever of the desert +being rampant. Great use is made of opium, +which is smoked to excess by the natives and +has very disastrous effects in such an unhealthy +climate. Personally, I have ever believed, and +believe still, that opium used in moderation has +no worse effects upon the light-headed human +beings who choose to make themselves slaves to +it than whisky or tobacco, but under these particular +circumstances and in this particular climate +it had undoubtedly most evil effects in just +the same way that whisky, which is certainly +the best drink for damp Scotland, is most +injurious to those who make use of it in similar +doses in India.</p> + +<p>Although I have visited opium dens, merely +for the purpose of observing, in almost every +Asiatic country where opium smoking is practised, +I have never seen cases quite so depressing +as here. A great proportion of the population +suffered from fever, to allay the sufferings of +which opium was used.</p> + +<p>There was, of course, the usual contingent +of sick people visiting my camp to obtain medicine +for their various troubles—one fever-stricken +man, with cadaverous face and skeleton-like limbs, +collapsing altogether when reaching me and remaining +senseless for a considerable time. As I +never carry medicine of any kind in my travels +I was unable to satisfy them, but I gave them +some little present each, which did them just as +much good.<a name="Pg_2-30" id="Pg_2-30"></a></p> + +<p>Beggars, too, visited the camp in appalling +numbers, and their ways were quite interesting; +but none was so ingenious as that of an old woman, +who waited till there was a goodish crowd of +visitors in my camp, and then rushed at me and +made a violent scene, saying that I must pay her +50 tomans—about £10.</p> + +<p>"But I have never seen you before! What +have you done to earn such a sum?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, Sahib, you have ruined me!" and she +yelled as only an angry old woman can! She +plumped herself on my best carpet and proceeded +to explain. She said that she had buried the +above stated sum in solid silver within a pile of +straw, which she had sold the day before to a +man to feed his camels upon. She was therefore—according +to a reasoning of her own, since +I had not yet arrived here the day before, nor +could she identify the man with any of my party—certain +that my camels had devoured the sum, +and I, therefore, must pay the sum back! She +was, nevertheless, sure that I was not to blame +in the matter, and was willing to waive the claim +on the immediate payment of two shais—about +a half-penny!</p> + +<p>Although it is well to be as kind as one can to +the natives, it is never right to allow them to go +unpunished for playing tricks. Of all the people—and +they were many—who applied for charity +that day, she was the only one who received +nothing. This punishment, I was glad to see, +was approved of by the many natives who had +collected round.<a name="Pg_2-31" id="Pg_2-31"></a></p> + +<p>A gentlemanly-looking fellow came forward +and asked me to visit his house, where he was +manufacturing a huge carpet—very handsome in +design, but somewhat coarse in texture—ordered +for Turkestan. Three women in his house had +uncovered faces, and were very good-looking. +They brought us tea in the garden, and sweets +and water melon, but did not, of course, join in +the conversation, and modestly kept apart in a +corner. They wore white <i>chudders</i> over the +head and long petticoats—quite a becoming +attire—while the men, too, were most artistic +in appearance, with smart zouave yellow jackets +trimmed with fur, with short sleeves not reaching +quite to the elbow, leaving the arm quite free in +its movements, and displaying the loose sleeve of +the shirt underneath.</p> + +<p>A couple of newly-born babies were swung in +hammocks in the garden, and were remarkably +quiet when asleep!</p> + +<p>On going for a walk on the outskirts of the +city one found a great many fairly high mud hillocks +to the east, averaging 400 feet. East-south-east +there stood hundreds more of these hillocks, +with taller brown hills (the Leker Kuh) behind +them, and to the west a high peak, rising to an +estimated 11,000 feet, in the Kuh-Benan mountains. +The Tokrajie Mountains, south-west of +Lawah, did not seem to rise to more than 9,000 +or 10,000 feet, and extended in a south-south-east +direction. South-east we could still see the +Kuh Legav Mountain, at the foot of which we +had camped on November 8th. To the north<a name="Pg_2-32" id="Pg_2-32"></a> +was a long mountain, with a white stratum like +a horizontal stripe half-way up it, and the summit +was in regular teeth like those of a saw. Another +similar but more pointed mountain was to the east-south-east, +the white stratum being less horizontal +in this portion. This curious white stripe in +the hills extended over an arc of a circle from +70° (east-north-east) to 320° (north-west).</p> + +<p>We made great purchases of provisions in +Lawah—sheep, chickens, eggs, vegetables and +fruit, the slaughtered chickens being carefully +prepared in layers of salt to make them last as +long as possible. Then we purchased a number +of sheep skins to carry a further supply of +drinking water, for from this place, we were told, +we should be several days without finding any. +Sadek was busy all day smearing these skins with +molten butter to make them absolutely water +tight, and I, on my part, was glad to see all the +butter go in this operation, for with the intense +heat of the day it was impossible to touch it +with one's food. Sadek's idea of good cooking +was intense richness—everything floating in +grease and butter; so these skins, which absorbed +all the butter we had, were really a godsend to +me—as far as the <i>cuisine</i> of the future was +concerned.</p> + +<p>There was something in the climate of Lawah +that made one feverish and irritable. In the +afternoon some of the camel men had a fight +with a number of Lawah people, and later the +camel men in a body attacked Sadek. He was +very plucky and quick—they were heavy but<a name="Pg_2-33" id="Pg_2-33"></a> +clumsy—so that Sadek succeeded with a heavy +mallet in giving them several cracks on the +head, but as they were eight to one and closed +in upon him and were about to give him a good +hammering, I had to rush to his assistance and +with the butt of my rifle scattered the lot about. +For a moment they seemed as if they were going +to turn on me; they were very excited and +seized whatever they could lay their hands upon +in the shape of sticks and stones, but I casually +put a few cartridges in the magazine of my rifle +and sat down again on my carpets to continue +writing my diary. They came to beg pardon +for the trouble they had given, and embraced +my feet, professing great humility.</p> + +<p>Four camels of the combined caravans had +been taken ill with fever and had to be left +behind. Their cries from pain were pitiful. +Owing to the abundant dinner we got here, with +lavish supplies of meat, fruit—most delicious +figs, pomegranates and water melons—of which +we partook more copiously than wisely, all the +men got attacks of indigestion, and so did my +poor little kittens, who had stuffed themselves +to their hearts' content with milk and the +insides of chickens; so that when night came, +everybody being ill, we were unable to make a +start.</p> + +<p>At sunset, with the sudden change in the +temperature, and the revulsion from intense +dryness to the sudden moisture of the dew, a +peculiar feeling took possession of me, and I +could feel that I was fast inhaling the miasma of<a name="Pg_2-34" id="Pg_2-34"></a> +fever. The natives shut themselves up inside +their houses—for sunset, they say, and sunrise +are the times when fever is contracted,—but we +were out in the open and had no protection +against it. It seems to seize one violently from +the very beginning and sends up one's temperature +extremely high, which produces a fearful exhaustion, +with pains in the ribs, arms and spinal +column.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-007.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-007_th.jpg" alt="Wolves in Camp." title="Wolves in Camp." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Wolves in Camp.</p> + +<p>The altitude of Lawah is 4,420 ft. and therefore +the nights are terribly cold in contrast to +the stifling heat of the day. I had wrapped +myself up in my blankets, shivering with the +fever that had seized me quite violently, and the +kittens were playing about near my bed. My +men were all sound asleep and only the occasional +hoarse roar of the squatted camels all round our +camp broke the silence of the night. I eventually +fell asleep with my hat over my face +screening it from the heavy fall of dew.</p> + +<p>Suddenly I woke up, startled by the kittens +dashing under my blankets and sticking their +claws into me and making a fearful racket, and +also by some other animals sniffing my face. I +jumped up, rifle in hand, for indeed there were +some wolves visiting our camp. One—a most +impudent rascal—was standing on one of my +boxes, and another had evidently made a dash for +the white cat; hence the commotion.</p> + +<p>The wolves bolted when I got up—I could +not fire owing to the camels and people being +all round—but the kittens did not stir from their +hiding place until the next morning, when in<a name="Pg_2-35" id="Pg_2-35"></a> +broad day-light they cautiously peeped out to +see that the danger had passed.</p> + +<p>With the coming day the gruesome reality +had to be faced, that one and all of my party had +contracted fever of the desert in more or less +violent form, even the kittens, who sneezed and +trembled the whole day. Some of the camels, +too, were unwell and lay with their long necks +resting upon the ground and refused to eat. The +prospects of crossing the most difficult part of +the desert with such a sorry party were not very +bright, but we made everything ready, and at ten +o'clock in the evening we were to make a start.</p> + +<p>I purchased here a third and most beautiful +cat—a weird animal, and so wild that when let +out of the bag in which it had been brought to +me, he covered us all over with scratches. He +was three months old, and had quite a will of +his own. When introduced to Master Kerman +and Miss Zeris, there were reciprocal growls and +arched backs, and when asked to share their +travelling home for the night there was evident +objection and some exchange of spitting. But +as there were four corners in the wooden box +and only three cats, they eventually settled down, +one in each, watching the new comer with wide +expanded eyes and fully outstretched claws, merely +for defensive emergencies, but otherwise quite +peacefully inclined.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-36" id="Pg_2-36"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_V" id="V2-CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Salt sediments as white as snow—Brilliant stars—Plaintive +songs of the camel men—An improvisatore—Unpleasant +odour of camels—A large salt deposit—No water and no +fuel—A device to protect oneself against great heat—Amazing +intelligence of cats—Nature's ways and men's +ways—A hot climb—A brilliantly coloured range—Sea +shells and huge fossils.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> November 11th at ten o'clock <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we gladly +left poisonous Lawah and spent the night (November +12th) traversing a mountain region by a +flattish and low pass, and then travelling due +north entered the actual <i>Dasht-i-lut</i>—the sandy +Salt Desert, the sediment of surface salt being +in some places so thick and white as to resemble +snow. Here and there some hillocks of sand +relieved the monotony of the dreary journey, +otherwise flat sand and surface salt extended as +far as the eye could see.</p> + +<p>The nights, even when there was no moonlight, +were so clear, and the stars and planets so brilliant, +that with a little practice one could, for general +purposes, see almost as well as by day.</p> + +<p>The night was terribly cold, which I felt all +the more owing to the fever, as I hung resting +my head on the padded pommel of the saddle<a name="Pg_2-37" id="Pg_2-37"></a> +and my legs and arms dangling at the sides. A +howling, cutting wind blew and made it impossible +to cover one's self up with blankets, as +they were constantly being blown away, no +matter how well one tucked one's self in them.</p> + +<p>There was a certain picturesque weirdness in +these night marches in the desert—when one +could dissociate one's self from the discomforts. +The camel men had some sad, plaintive +songs of their own—quite melodious and in good +tune with the accompaniment of dingling bells +hanging from the camels' necks. There was +a musician in our party—Ali Murat's young +brother—who carried a flute in his girdle during +the day, but played upon the instrument the +whole night—some doleful tunes of his own +composition, which were not bad. True, when +one had listened to the same tune, not only scores +but hundreds of times during one night, one +rather felt the need of a change, but still even +the sound of his flute was a great relief in the +dreary night marches. Occasionally, when the +fancy took him, and he made some variations in +the airs, the camel men, who slept while mechanically +walking, would join in to sing in a +chorus.</p> + +<p>Overhead the stars gleamed with a brightness +that we can never dream of seeing in Europe, +and in the distance we now began to perceive +some phantom-like hills rising from the whitish-grey +surface of the desert. A good deal of the +poetry of the desert is, nevertheless, lost each +time that the camel on which you ride breathes.<a name="Pg_2-38" id="Pg_2-38"></a> +Behold! one is brought to earth very soon! +The rancid smell which comes in regular whiffs +is sickening. So is the powerful stench of his +hump when it gets heated by the pads of the +never-removed saddle.</p> + +<p>About every two miles a few minutes' rest is +given to the camels, then on again they slowly +swing forward, the nose of one being attached +by a long string to the tail rope of the preceding +animal.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-008.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-008_th.jpg" alt="Author's Camel Men in their White Felt Coats." title="Author's Camel Men in their White Felt Coats." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Camel Men in their White Felt Coats.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-009.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-009_th.jpg" alt="Camel Men saying their Prayers at Sunset." title="Camel Men saying their Prayers at Sunset." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Camel Men saying their Prayers at Sunset.</p> + +<p>Twenty miles from Lawah, mud-hills covering +underlying rock were reached, and closed us in on +either side. Two miles further, when it got too +hot to proceed—thermometer 148° in the sun +and not a thread of shade—we halted on a white +salt deposit of considerable extent. There was +no water and no fuel, and the heat was well-nigh +unbearable in the middle of the day. It was +useless to pitch my tent, for in such stifling heat +it is not possible to remain under it, nor could +one breathe at all if one tried to get a little shade +by screening one's self against a wall of loads +which impeded the air moving.</p> + +<p>My camel men showed me a device which by +the ignorant may be ridiculed, but to the sensible +is a great blessing when exposed to abnormally +high temperatures. The only way to protect +one's self against the broiling air is to cover one's +self, head and all, leaving space to breathe, with +one or two thick blankets of wool or thick felt, of +a white or light colour preferably, white being a +non-absorbent of the hot sun's rays. The thickness +of the cloth keeps the body at an enveloping<a name="Pg_2-39" id="Pg_2-39"></a> +temperature slightly above the temperature of +the body itself (even when with high fever +seldom more than 104°), and therefore a cooler +temperature than outside the blankets, when it is +frequently 148° sometimes 150° and even more. +By contrast this seems quite cool. It is, in other +words, a similar process to that used by us in +summer to maintain ice from melting.</p> + +<p>In Morocco, Algeria, Egypt, Arabia, the people +who are much exposed to the rays of the hot sun +in deserts always wear extremely thick woollen +clothing, or bernouses; and in Persia the camel +men of the desert, as we have seen, possess thick +white felt coats in which they wrap themselves, +head and all, during the hot hours of the day. +The Italians, too, seem to have been fully aware +of this, for in Naples and Southern Italy they +have an ancient proverb in the Neapolitan dialect:—<i>Quel +che para lo freddo para lo caldo</i>—"What +is protection against cold is protection against +heat."</p> + +<p>I know one Englishman in Southern Persia +who, when crossing the broiling plains of +Arabistan, wears a thick overcoat and plenty of +woollen underwear—a method which he learnt +from the nomad tribes of Arabistan—but he is +generally laughed at by his countrymen who do +not know any better. This cooling device, +naturally, only applies to tropical climates when +the temperature of the air is greatly above the +actual temperature of the blood.</p> + +<p>I had arranged with the caravan that accompanied +mine to carry fodder for my camels,<a name="Pg_2-40" id="Pg_2-40"></a> +as there was no grazing for the animals here. +Large cloths were spread on which straw and +cotton-seeds were mixed together, and then the +camels were made to kneel round and have a meal.</p> + +<p>On this occasion I was much struck by the +really marvellous intelligence of cats. We hear +a lot about dogs finding their way home from +long distances by using their sense of scent (how +far this explanation is correct we have no time to +discuss), but of cats the general belief is that if +they are taken away from home they seldom find +their way back. This may be the case with cats +that have always been shut up in some particular +house, but it is not that they do not possess the +intellect to do so in their natural state. Here is +an instance.</p> + +<p>On letting the cats loose when we halted, the +newly-purchased one attempted to make his +escape. I was watching him carefully. He did +not do this in a haphazard manner, running here +and there as a dog would, but jumped out of the +box, took his bearings with great calm and +precision and in a most scientific manner, first by +looking at the sun, and then at his own shadow, +evidently to discover whether when shut up in +the box he had travelled east or west, north or +south, or to some intermediate point. He repeated +this operation several times with a +wonderful expression of intelligence and reflection +on his little face, and then dashed away with +astounding accuracy in the direction of Lawah +town. Mind you, he did not at all follow the +track that we had come by, which was somewhat<a name="Pg_2-41" id="Pg_2-41"></a> +circuitous, but went in a bee line for his native +place and not a second to the left or right of the +direct bearings which I took with my prismatic +compass to check his direction. Sadek and the +camel men went in pursuit of him and he was +brought back.</p> + +<p>This seemed so marvellous that I thought it +might be a chance. We were then only twenty-two +miles from Lawah. I repeated the experiment +for three or four days from subsequent camps, +until the cat reconciled himself to his new +position and declined to run away. I took the +trouble to revolve him round himself several +times to mislead him in his bearings, but each +time he found his correct position by the sun and +his own shadow, and never made a mistake in +the absolutely correct bearings of his route.</p> + +<p>A remarkable fact in connection with this is +that the most ignorant natives of Persia, men +who have never seen or heard of a compass, can +tell you the exact direction of places by a very +similar method, so that there is more in the +process than we think.</p> + +<p>It is rather humiliating when we reflect that +what we highly civilised people can only do with +difficulty with the assistance of elaborate theodolites, +sextants, artificial horizons, compasses +and lengthy computations, an ignorant camel +man, or a kitten, can do practically and simply +and always correctly in a few seconds by drawing +conclusions on facts of nature which speak for +themselves better than all the scientific instruments +we can manufacture.<a name="Pg_2-42" id="Pg_2-42"></a></p> + +<p>There was a high mountain north-east of +camp, the Darband, 8,200 feet, and as my fever +seemed to be getting worse, and I had no +quinine with which to put a sudden stop to it, I +thought I would climb to the top of the +mountain to sweat the fever out, and also to +obtain a view of the surrounding country.</p> + +<p>After having slept some three hours and +having partaken of a meal—we had the greatest +difficulty in raising enough animal fuel for a fire—I +started off about one in the afternoon under +a broiling sun. The camp was at an altitude of +4,350 feet and the ascent not difficult but very +steep and rocky, and involving therefore a good +deal of violent exertion. The dark rocks were +so hot with the sun that had been shining upon +them that they nearly burned one's fingers when +one touched them. Still, the view from the top +well repaid one for the trouble of getting there.</p> + +<p>A general survey showed that the highest +mountain to be seen around was to the south-south-east +(150° bearings magnetic), and a +couple of almost conical hills, exactly alike in +shape, but not in size, stood one in front of the +other on a line with 160° b.m. Between them +both to east and west were a number of misshapen +mountains. Were it not for a low confused heap +of grey mud and sand the desert would be an +absolutely flat stretch from the distant mountains +enclosing the plain on the south to the others +on the north. A long high mud barrier runs +diagonally at the northern end, in a direction from +east to west, and another extending from south-<a name="Pg_2-43" id="Pg_2-43"></a>east +to north-west meets it, forming a slightly +acute angle. The latter range is of a most peculiar +formation, extremely brilliant in colour, the +ground being a vivid red, regularly fluted and +striped across so straight with friezes and bands +formed by strata of different tones of colour, that +from a distance it almost resembles the patient +work of a skilful artisan instead of the results +of the corrosive action of water. Another +parallel and similar range stands exactly opposite +on the east.</p> + +<p>The mountain itself to which I had climbed +was most interesting. Imbedded in the rock +were quantities of fossil white and black sea-shells, +and about half way up the mountain a +huge fossil, much damaged, resembling a gigantic +turtle. Near it on the rock were impressions +of enormous paws.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-44" id="Pg_2-44"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_VI" id="V2-CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A long detour—Mount Darband—A water-cut gorge—Abandoned +watch towers—Passes into the desert—A wall-like +mountain range—The tower and fortified caravanserai +at camp Darband—Brackish water—Terrific heat—Compensating +laws of nature better than absurd patents—Weird +rocks—Cairns—Chel-payeh salt well—Loss of half our +supply of fresh water—Camels and men overcome by the +heat.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> we left camp soon after midnight on +November 13th, we had to make quite a long +detour to take the caravan around the Darband +Mountain, which barred our way directly on the +course we were to follow. On foot one could +have taken a short cut in a more direct line by +climbing up to a certain height on the western +mountain slope, but it was out of the question +to take camels up by it. We had to go some +distance due north, through very broken country +with numerous hillocks, after which we followed +a narrow gorge cut deep by the action of water. +The sides of this gorge were like high mud and +gravel walls, occasionally rocks worn smooth, +averaging from 60 to 100 feet apart.</p> + +<p>The river bed, now absolutely dry, evidently +carried into the desert during the torrential rain all +the drainage of the mountainous country we had<a name="Pg_2-45" id="Pg_2-45"></a> +traversed, practically that from Abid, the Leker +Mountains, and the combined flow of the Lawah +plain from the mountains to the west of it, to +which, of course, may be added the western +watershed of the Darband Mountain itself. A +glance at the natural walls, between which we +were travelling, and the way in which hard rocks +had been partly eaten away and deeply grooved, +or huge hollows bored into them, was sufficient +to show the observer with what terrific force the +water must dash its way through this deep-cut +channel. The highest water-mark noticeable on +the sides was twenty-five feet above the bed. +The impetus with which the rain water must +flow down the almost vertical fluted mountain +sides must be very great, and immense also must +be the body of water carried, for the mountain +sides, being rocky, absorb very little of the rain +falling upon them and let it flow down to increase +the foaming stream—when it is a stream.</p> + +<p>Some sixteen miles from our last camp we +came across a circular tower, very solidly built, +standing on the edge of a river cliff, and higher +up on a ridge of hills in a commanding position +stood the remains of two quadrangular towers in +a tumbling-down condition. Of one, in fact, +there remained but a portion of the base; of the +other three walls were still standing to a good +height. The circular tower below, however, +which seemed of later date, was in good +preservation. According to the camel men, none +of these towers were very ancient and had been +put up to protect that passage from the robber<a name="Pg_2-46" id="Pg_2-46"></a> +bands which occasionally came over westward +from Sistan and Afghanistan. It had, however, +proved impossible to maintain a guard in such +a desolate position, hence the abandonment of +these outposts.</p> + +<p>This is one of the three principal passages by +which the mountains can be crossed with animals +from Kerman towards the east (north of the +latitude of Kerman 30° 17′ 30″). The other +two passages are: one to Khabis over a pass +(north-east of Kerman) in the Husseinabad +Mountains; the second between the Derun +Mountain and the Leker Kuh from Abid, also +to Khabis. From the latter place it is also +possible to cross the Desert to Birjiand, but the +lack of water even at the best of times makes +it a very dangerous track to follow both for men +and animals. Barring these passages there are +high mountains protecting Kerman and continuously +extending, roughly, from N.N.W. to +S.S.E.</p> + +<p>We travelled partly above the high cliffs, +then, near the circular tower, we descended to +the dry river-bed of well-rounded pebbles and +sand. Our course had gradually swerved to +the south-east, then we left the river bed once +more and went due east, over confused masses +of mud hillocks from twenty to a hundred feet +high. To the north we had a wall-like mountain +range formed of superposed triangles of +semi-solidified rock, the upper point of each +triangle forming either an angle of 45° or a +slightly acute angle; and to the south also<a name="Pg_2-47" id="Pg_2-47"></a> +another wall-like range, quite low, but of a +similar character to the northern ones. Beyond +it, to the south-west, twenty miles back (by the +way followed) lay the Darband Mountain, on +the other side of which we had made our +previous camp.</p> + +<p>The camp at which we halted bore the name +of Darband, and from this point the desert again +opened into a wide flat expanse. The mountains +to the north suddenly ended in a crowded +succession of low mud-hills, descending for about +a mile into the flat. The desert in all its dignified +grandeur, spread before us almost uninterruptedly +from due north to south-east, as far as the eye +could see. North, a long way off, one could +perceive a low range of hills extending in an +easterly direction, and beyond at 30° bearings +magnetic (about N.N.E.) rose a very high +mountain and yet another very far north-east, +with some isolated conical hills of fair height +standing before it in the same direction; otherwise +everything else in front of us was as flat +and as barren as could be.</p> + +<p>At Darband halting place there is an interesting +old circular tower, much battered, as if it +had seen some fighting. The attacks on it seem +to have taken place mostly from the south-westerly +side, which aspect bears evident marks +of violent assaults. The tower is most cleverly +loopholed, so as to protect the inmates while +firing on the enemy, and has a look-out house +on the top. For additional protection the entrance +door is about twenty feet above the<a name="Pg_2-48" id="Pg_2-48"></a> +ground and can only be reached by a ladder, +which was drawn up in cases of emergency.</p> + +<p>A large dilapidated and filthy caravanserai—a +regular fortress with a watch tower of its own +and loop-holes all round—is erected in the +vicinity in another commanding position. In +the gully below there is a small oasis of palm +trees and a few square yards of vegetation alongside +a small spring of brackish water—the only +water there is—with a reservoir. Next to this, +west of the caravanserai, are the remains of a few +mud huts in ruins.</p> + +<p>We were here only 3,780 feet above the sea. +The heat was terrific.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-010.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-010_th.jpg" alt="Author's Camels being Fed in the Desert." title="Author's Camels being Fed in the Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Camels being Fed in the Desert.</p> + +<p>Brackish water is not pleasant to drink, but it +is not necessarily unhealthy. Personally, I am a +great believer in the compensating laws of +Nature in preference to the ill-balanced habits of +civilised men, and am certain that the best thing +one can drink in the desert, under the abnormal +conditions of heat, dust and dryness, is salt water, +which stimulates digestion and keeps the system +clean. Of filters, condensing apparatuses, soda-water +cartridges, and other such appliances for +difficult land travelling, the less said the better. +They are very pretty toys, the glowing advertisements +of which may add to the profits of +geographical magazines, but they are really more +useful in cities in Europe than practical in the +desert. Possibly they may be a consolation to +a certain class of half-reasoning people. But anything +else, it might be argued would serve equally +well. One sees them advertised as preventatives<a name="Pg_2-49" id="Pg_2-49"></a> +of malarial fever, but no sensible person who has +ever had fever or seen it in others would ever +believe that it comes from drinking water. +Fever is in the atmosphere—one breathes fever; +one does not necessarily drink it. When the +water is corrupted, the air is also corrupted, and +to filter the one and not the other is an operation +the sense of which I personally cannot see.</p> + +<p>It has ever been my experience, and that also of +others, that the fewer precautions one takes, the +more one relies on Nature to take care of one +instead of on impracticable devices—the better +for one's health in the end. I do not mean by +this that one should go and drink dirty water to +avoid fever,—far from it,—but if the water is dirty +the best plan is not to drink it at all, whether +filtered—or, to be accurate, passed through a filter—or +not, or made into soda-water!</p> + +<p>One fact is certain, that if one goes through +a fever district one can take all the precautions +in the world, but if one's system is so inclined +one is sure to contract it; only the more the +precautions, the more violent the fever.</p> + +<p>But to return to our specific case, brackish +water is not necessarily dirty, and as I have said, +is to my mind one of Nature's protections +against fever of the desert. In my own case, +when I partook of it freely, it decidedly kept the +fever down.</p> + +<p>We made a much earlier start, at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, on +November 13th, and I had to walk part of the +way as it was too steep for the camels. We had +great trouble in taking them down to the dry<a name="Pg_2-50" id="Pg_2-50"></a> +river-bed—which we were to follow, being quite +flat and therefore easier for the animals. We +went along between low hills, getting lower and +lower, and some two miles from the Darband +tower we emerged into the open, the river-bed +losing itself here in the desert.</p> + +<p>During the night of the 13th-14th we +travelled 28 miles on the flat until we came +to more low hills, which we entered by another +river-bed, also dry. We had come in a north-north-east +direction so far, but we now turned +due east among high, flat-topped hills which +resembled a mass of ruined Persian houses of a +quadrangular shape, so strangely had they been +carved out by the corrosive action of water. +They were of solid rock, and eaten into holes +here and there, which from a distance gave +the appearance of windows and doors, and of +caves.</p> + +<p>The river-bed on which we travelled was of +soft sand—very troublesome—and minute gravel +strewn here and there with large boulders fallen +from the cliffs at the sides. Cairns had been +erected in various prominent points by caravan +men, to show future travellers the way to Naiband +for Birjiand and Meshed.</p> + +<p>Following this in an easterly direction we came +to a large basin, and then further on to another. +We continued in zig-zag for a short distance, +when we arrived at a place where the river-bed +makes an elbow, turning to the north. At this +spot a caravanserai was in course of construction, +built at the expense of some charitable person.<a name="Pg_2-51" id="Pg_2-51"></a> +There was only one well of brackish water, and +very little of that, too. The workmen would +not let us partake of it. Everything, of course, +had to be brought, as nothing could be obtained +there, and the few workmen complained bitterly +of the hardships they had to endure in going on +with their work. They feared they would soon +run short even of water. They were all fever-stricken, +and two quite in a pitiable condition. +They had little food left; most of their animals +had died, and they were unable to leave. +Chel-Payeh was the name of this well (altitude +4,420 feet).</p> + +<p>We were thirty-two miles from our last camp, +and reached here at 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> On taking the loads +down we had a great disappointment. Sadek, +who was not accustomed to ride camels, was +suffering considerably, and in order to make himself +comfortable he had contrived a clever device +to avoid coming in immediate contact with the +wooden frame of his saddle. He had fastened +the two largest skins we had with our supply +of good water on the top of his saddle, and having +covered them over with blankets and carpets, on +them, he sat and slept through the whole night. +Alas! the weight of his body burst both skins +during the night and squeezed all the water out!</p> + +<p>So here we were, with only two small skins of +fresh water left, which would have to last the +whole party several days. But we were to have +a further misfortune on the following march.</p> + +<p>The heat was intense—146° in the sun—not +an inch of shade in the middle of the day, and<a name="Pg_2-52" id="Pg_2-52"></a> +the river-bed being cut into the plain, and therefore +lower than the surface of the remainder of +the desert, the lack of a current of air made this +spot quite suffocating; so much so that both +camels and men were getting quite overcome by +the heat, and we had to start off early in the +afternoon at 4 o'clock.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-53" id="Pg_2-53"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_VII" id="V2-CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Fortress-like cliffs—A long troublesome march—Sixteen hours +on the saddle—All our fresh-water supply gone!—Fever—Electricity +of the desert—Troublesome camel men—A +small oasis—An ancient battered tower—A giant—Naiband +mountain and village—Rock habitations—A landmark in +the desert.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Fortress-like</span>, vertical rocky cliffs rose to our +left and enormous boulders tumbled down to our +right. Our direction was due north. On our +right, as we were again entering the flat desert, +a quadrangular fort of natural formation stood on +the mountain-side.</p> + +<p>We did not halt for dinner as we could find no +fuel to do the cooking with, and we marched all +night (November 15th)—a most painful march, +for the camels were all more or less sick and tired, +and they dragged themselves jerkily, grunting and +making the most awful noises all night.</p> + +<p>My fever got very bad and I was seized with +bad pains in my ribs and spine. Sadek and the +camel men complained of feeling very ill, and +the cats remonstrated from their high perch at +not being let out of their box at the customary +hour. To add to our happiness, one of my +camels, carrying some air-tight cases with sharp<a name="Pg_2-54" id="Pg_2-54"></a> +brass corners, collided with the camel conveying +the precious load of the two remaining water-skins +which hung on its sides, and, of course, as +fate would have it, the brass corners wrenched +the skin and out flowed every drop of water, +which was avidly absorbed by the dry sand.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-011.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-011_th.jpg" alt="The Trail we left behind in the Salt Desert." title="The Trail we left behind in the Salt Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Trail we left behind in the Salt Desert.</p> + +<p>The character of the country was the same as +on the previous day, a long stretch of flat, then +undulations, after which we entered another dry +canal cut deep, with vertical rocky sides, very +similar to the Chel-Payeh except that in the bed +of the gorge itself there were now enormous flat +slabs of stone instead of sand and gravel, as the +day before. Further on we were surrounded +by low hills, which we crossed by a pass, and +after having been on the saddle continuously for +sixteen hours we halted at eight o'clock <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> in +the middle of a broiling, barren stretch of sand, +gravel and shingle.</p> + +<p>After so long a march, and under such +unpleasant conditions, our throats and tongues +were parched with thirst. Fortunately, we still +had one skin of water left, I thought, so my first +impulse was to hasten to have it taken off the +saddle that we might all have a sip. But +misfortune pursued us. On approaching the +camel that carried it, the animal was all wet on +one side, and I fully realised what to expect. +Sadek, with a long face of dismay, took down +the flabby empty skin; the water had all +dripped out of it, and here we were, in the +middle of the desert, no well, whether salt or +otherwise, and not a thimbleful of water!<a name="Pg_2-55" id="Pg_2-55"></a></p> + +<p>The very thought that we could get nothing +to drink made us ten times more thirsty, and we +seemed to be positively roasting under the fierce +sun. The camel men threw themselves down +upon their felt coats and moaned and groaned, +and the camels, who had drunk or eaten nothing +for three days, appeared most unhappy and +grunted pitifully.</p> + +<p>For want of better remedy we sucked pebbles, +which stimulated salivation and allayed the +thirst to a certain extent, but with the high +fever, which brought about fearful exhaustion +and severe aches, and the unpleasant, abundant +electricity in the air caused by the intense +dryness—which has a most peculiar effect on +one's skin—we none of us felt particularly +happy. The three cats were the only philosophers +of the party and were quite sympathetic. +They amused themselves by climbing +up the camel's long necks, just as they would up +a tree, to the evident discomfort of the larger +animals. They had a particular fancy for sitting +on the camels' bushy heads.</p> + +<p>The electricity with which the air of the +desert is absolutely saturated is gradually absorbed +by the human body and stored as in an accumulator. +On touching the barrel of a rifle or any +other good conductor of electricity, one would +discharge an electric spark of some length. By +rubbing one's woollen blankets with one's hands +one could always generate sufficient electricity +to produce a spark; and as for the cats, if one +touched them they always gave out a good<a name="Pg_2-56" id="Pg_2-56"></a> +many sparks. At night, if one caressed them, +there was quite a luminous greenish glow under +one's fingers as they came into contact with the +hair. Quite a brilliant flash ensued when the +cats were rubbed with a woollen blanket.</p> + +<p>We had only risen about 100 feet to 4,520 feet +from our last camp, and we steered N.N.E. for +the high Naiband Mountain.</p> + +<p>The camel men, taking advantage of my +being ill, were very troublesome and attempted +some of their tricks; but although I was absolutely +at their mercy I screwed up what little +strength I had and brought them back to their +senses. The camels, they said, were very ill, and +we could not possibly go on. We certainly +could not stop where we were, and I most +decidedly would not go back, so, when night +came, on we went leaving camp at 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> and +travelling first over a great flat stretch, then +among low hills and through several ravines cut +by water. We travelled some ten hours at a +good pace, and when nearing the Naiband +Mountain the country became quite undulating.</p> + +<p>On November 16th we arrived in a small +oasis of high palm trees, with a streamlet of salt +water forming a pool or two, dirty to a degree +owing to the bad habits of camels when drinking. +Our camels, who had drunk nothing for +several days, on perceiving these pools made a +dash for them and sucked to their hearts' content +gallons of water of a ghastly reddish-green tint, +almost as thick as syrup with mud and organic<a name="Pg_2-57" id="Pg_2-57"></a> +matter, but which they seemed to enjoy all the +same.</p> + +<p>There was here a much battered tower, +attributed, to Beluch, who are said to have +fought here most bravely in times gone by, but +more probably of Afghan origin—or at least +erected during the time of the Afghan invasion. +It is said to be some centuries old, but here +again it is well to have one's doubts upon the +matter.</p> + +<p>As I was examining the tower, which has +undoubtedly seen some terrific fighting, a giant +man emerged from the palm trees and came +towards us. He was some 6 feet 6 inches in +height, and being slender, with a small head, +appeared to be even taller than he really was. +He strode disjointedly towards us and was somewhat +peculiar in manner and speech. He examined +us very closely and then ran away up to +the village—a quaint old place perched high on +the mountain side and with eight picturesque +towers. Most of these towers were round, but a +large quadrangular one stood apart on a separate +hill.</p> + +<p>There were innumerable holes in the rock, +which were at one time habitations, but are used +now as stables mostly for donkeys, of which +there were a great number in the place. The +rock on which the village stood is very rugged +and difficult of access, as can be seen by the +photograph which I took, and the architecture +of the buildings had a character peculiar +to itself and differed very considerably from any<a name="Pg_2-58" id="Pg_2-58"></a> +other houses we had met in Persia. They +were flat-roofed, with very high walls, and +four circular apertures to answer the purpose of +windows about half-way up the wall. The +roof was plastered and made a kind of verandah, +where the natives spread fruit and vegetables to dry +and the women had their small weaving looms. +On one side of the rock, where the greater +number of habitations were to be found, they +actually appeared one on the top of the other, +the front door of one being on the level with the +roof of the underlying one.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-012.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-012_th.jpg" alt="Author's Caravan Descending into River Bed near Darband." title="Author's Caravan Descending into River Bed near Darband." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Author's Caravan Descending into River Bed near Darband.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-013.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-013_th.jpg" alt="Rock Habitations, Naiband." title="Rock Habitations, Naiband." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Rock Habitations, Naiband.</p> + +<p>The path to the village was very steep, tortuous +and narrow. The village extended from +south-west to north-east on the top of the +mountain, and the separate quadrangular tower +occupied a prominent position to its eastern +extremity. There were palm trees and fields +both to the south and east at the foot of the +rocky mountain on which the village stood, and +to the W.N.W. (300° bearings magnetic) of it +towered the majestic Naiband Mountain mass, +very high, one of the great landmarks of the +Dasht-i-Lut, the Salt Desert.</p> + +<p>Directly above the village of Naiband was a +peak from which, although of no great altitude—4,500 +ft.—one got a beautiful bird's-eye view +both of the village and the surrounding country. +An immense stretch of desert spread below us, +uninterrupted from north-east to south except by +a small cluster of hillocks directly under us, and +by the continuation towards the south-west of +the Naiband mountainous mass; a high mountain<a name="Pg_2-59" id="Pg_2-59"></a> +lay to (170° bearings magnetic) S.S.E. The +highest peak of the Naiband was to the north of +the village, and the mountainous region extended +also in a direction further north beyond the +mountain that gives its name to the whole mass. +S.S.E. (150° b.m.) of the village down in the +plain rose an island of hills and also a few more +to the east.</p> + +<p>The desert was rather more undulating in the +eastern portion, but absolutely flat towards the +south-west and to the south, while north-east +of the village stood a weird collection of +picturesquely confused brown-red and whitish +mountains.</p> + +<p>Most of the cultivation—only a few patches—was +visible to the S.W. and E.N.E. of the village. +Palm trees were numerous. A spring of fresh +water ran down the mountain side, through the +main street of the village, and down into the +fields, in the irrigation of which it lost itself.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-60" id="Pg_2-60"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_VIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A visit to the eight-towered village—A hostile demonstration—Quaint +houses—Stoned—Brigand villagers—A device—Peculiar +characteristics of natives—Picturesque features—Constant +intermarriage and its effects—Nature's freaks—Children—Elongating +influence of the desert—Violent +women—Beasts of burden—Photography under difficulty—Admirable +teeth of the natives—Men's weak chests—Clothing—A +farewell demonstration—Fired at.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">I climbed</span> up to the village, accompanied by one +of my camel men, but our friend the giant had +preceded us and given the warning that a <i>ferenghi</i> +had arrived, and we were met on the road by a +number of boys and men who were running down +the hill to see the new arrival. The people were +not particularly respectful, and freely passed remarks, +not always complimentary—in fact, most +offensive; but as I was bent on seeing all that +there was to be seen, I paid no heed and continued +to go up.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-014.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-014_th.jpg" alt="The Village of Naiband, and Rock Dwellings in the Cliff." title="The Village of Naiband, and Rock Dwellings in the Cliff." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Village of Naiband, and Rock Dwellings in the Cliff.</p> + +<p>The camel man, who was getting quite alarmed—especially +when a stone or two were flung at +us—begged me to return to camp, but I would +not, and as I had my rifle with me I thought I +could hold my own, and certainly did not wish the +natives to think that an Englishman feared them.<a name="Pg_2-61" id="Pg_2-61"></a></p> + +<p>It appears that a European had visited this +spot some time previously, and they had some +grievance against him, but although it seemed +rather hard that I should come in for the punishment +which should have been meted to my predecessor, +I well knew that the only way out of +the scrape was to face the music. To run away +would have been fatal.</p> + +<p>So we entered the village by a narrow path, +while men, women and children collected on the +house-tops and in the doorways and gesticulated +and spouted away as fine a collection of insults as +one may expect to listen to in one's life. The +Naiband people may certainly be congratulated +on the possession of a most extensive and complete +vocabulary of swear words.</p> + +<p>Pretending unconcern, but keeping a watchful +eye on what was taking place all round, I stopped +here and there to examine the small water-skins +hanging in couples or more outside each doorway, +and halted in the small square of the village +to admire the wretched buildings all round.</p> + +<p>The lower portion of the houses was of mud, +the upper of stone. Down the side of the main +street gurgled the limpid little stream. Each +house had a sort of walled recess outside the front +door, reached by a step or two, where tilling +tools rested against the wall, and where the +women's spinning wheels were worked during +the day. The wheels, however, were now idle, +for the women had joined the men in the demonstration.</p> + +<p>It was most evident that <i>ferenghis</i> were not<a name="Pg_2-62" id="Pg_2-62"></a> +popular at Naiband, but, come what might, here +I was, and here I would stay as long as it suited +me. A stone flung with considerable force hit +me in the knee—stones always have a way of +striking you in the most sensitive spots—and it +took me some minutes before I could recover +from the pain and move on; but I never let the +natives suspect what agony I was enduring, or +they would have done worse.</p> + +<p>The slow march through the village up to the +highest point was decidedly not pleasant, missiles +flying pretty plentifully all round. Fortunately, +no more hit me quite as badly again. The camel +man had warned me that the population of Naiband +was a mixture of robbers and cut-throats, +and the facts fully proved his words, so I was +rather glad that I had taken not only my rifle +with me but a pocketful of cartridges as well.</p> + +<p>Things were getting rather hot, and it was +only when, having reached a high point of vantage, +I stopped and, in full view of the crowd, +inserted a five cartridge clip in the magazine of +my Mannlicher, that most anxious inquiries were +made from the camel man as to what I was about +to do. The camel man, amid a sudden silence +and eager attention, explained the terrific powers +of a <i>ferenghi's</i> rifle which, he said, never misses +and ever kills, even ten miles off; and to add +more humour to his words he explained that +shots could be fired so quick that one had not +time to count them.</p> + +<p>At this point of the lecture I casually produced +a handful of cartridges from my coat pocket, and<a name="Pg_2-63" id="Pg_2-63"></a> +having counted them aloud, proceeded to count +the people, who watched, somewhat flabbergasted. +The device answered perfectly. They dropped +the stones which, during the short armistice, they +had carefully nursed in their hands, and some +thought they had better return to their homes, +the bolder ones only remaining, who put a grin +of friendship on their faces, and made signs that +they would try to do no further harm.</p> + +<p>Peace being proclaimed, and after making them +pay their salaams, which seemed the most unusual +thing they ever had to do in their lifetime, I spoke +to them in a friendly way and patted them on +the back. They were much impressed with the +rifle and wanted me to let them see it in their +own hands, which, of course, I did not do. +They showed me some of their houses, which +were very dirty—people, fowls, and in some +cases a donkey or a goat, occupying the same +room.</p> + +<p>These brigand villagers were most interesting +as a type. They were quite unlike the Persians +of the West, and they certainly had nothing +in common with the Afghan; nor did they resemble +the people of the northern part of Persia. +The Beluch type came nearer. It would be +curious to trace exactly where they came from—although +undoubtedly their features must have +been greatly modified, even altogether altered, by +the climatic conditions of the spot they live in.</p> + +<p>One was struck by the abnormal length, thinness +and disjointedness of their limbs, and by the +long, well-chiselled faces, with handsome aquiline<a name="Pg_2-64" id="Pg_2-64"></a> +noses, broad and high foreheads, well-defined +eyebrows in a straight line across the brow, +piercing eyes well protected by the brow and +drooping at the outer corners, with quite a hollow +under the lower eyelid; very firm mouths full of +expression and power, also drooping slightly at +the corners, and high cheek bones.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-015.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-015_th.jpg" alt="Young Men of an Oasis in the Desert." title="Young Men of an Oasis in the Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Young Men of an Oasis in the Desert.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-016.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-016_th.jpg" alt="Man and Child of the Desert." title="Man and Child of the Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Man and Child of the Desert.</p> + +<p>Their appearance was certainly most picturesque, +and they possessed the cat-like manner and +general ways of feline animals which made them +appear rather unreliable but in a way quite attractive. +They were evidently people accustomed +to high-handed ways, and they needed very careful +handling. They were frank and resolute enough +in their speech—ever talking at the top of their +voices, which, however, sounded quite musical +and not grating.</p> + +<p>They possessed dirty but very beautifully-formed +hands and feet, the thumb only being somewhat +short and stumpy, but the fingers supple, +long and tapering. The few lines which they +possessed in the palms of their hands were very +strongly marked. There was a good deal of +refinement about their facial features and hands +which made me think that these people came +from a good stock, and even the ears—which +were generally malformed with all the natives of +Persia which had so far come under my observation—were +in this case much more delicately +modelled and infinitely better shaped. The chins +were beautifully chiselled, even when somewhat +slanting backwards.</p> + +<p>I give here a photograph which I took of two<a name="Pg_2-65" id="Pg_2-65"></a> +typical young men, and which I think bears out +my remarks.</p> + +<p>There was an extraordinary family resemblance +in nearly all the heads one saw, which made +one suspect constant intermarriage among relations +in the small community. In fact, on +asking, they professed to be all related to one +another.</p> + +<p>Another very curious point about the faces of +the male members of Naiband village, which +contrasted with other natives of Persia, was that, +whereas the latter can grow heavy beards from a +comparatively very tender age, the Naiband young +men were quite hairless on the face, almost like +Mongolians—even at twenty or twenty-two years +of age. When they had reached a fairly advanced +age, however, some forty years, they seemed to +grow quite a good black beard and heavy moustache, +somewhat curly, never very long, and of a +finer texture than with modern Persians. The +hair of the skull was perfectly straight, and was +worn long, parted in the middle, with an occasional +fringe on the forehead.</p> + +<p>Nature's freaks are many and varied. While +the men had invariably long aquiline noses, +elongated faces, and eyes well protected by the +brow, the children, until the age of ten or +twelve, had rather stumpy faces with noses +actually turned up, and most beautiful large eyes +softened by abnormally long eyelashes, the eyes +themselves, strangely enough, being quite <i>à fleur +de tête</i>. I noticed this curious phenomenon in +members of the same family, and the older ones<a name="Pg_2-66" id="Pg_2-66"></a> +told me that when they were young their faces +were also stubby and their noses turned up.</p> + +<p>The inference I drew was that it must be the +climatic conditions of the desert that have the +elongating effect, not only upon the facial +features, but on all the limbs of the people. +The people were not naturally born elongated. +The climate certainly has an elongating effect on +plants, or leaves, which all tend to come to a +point, such as the leaves of the elongated palm +trees, for instance, or any of the other spiky +plants one finds in parts of the desert.</p> + +<p>There was a good deal of the demon about +the women of the place, a superabundance of +fire in their movements and in the expression of +their flashing eyes, which was a great contrast to +the slow, dignified manner of the men, when +seen under normal circumstances. Their frame +was much more powerfully built than that of the +men. The ladies seemed to be in a perpetual +state of anger. That they were industrious there +could be no mistake, and one could but be +amazed at their muscular strength in lifting +heavy loads; but, taking things all round, one +was rather glad to have no friends among the +Naiband fair sex when one saw how their men, +relations or otherwise, were pulled about by +them. The men positively feared them, and the +women seemed to have it all their own way.</p> + +<p>They were so violent that it was most difficult +to approach them, but with some careful coaxing +I succeeded in persuading the wildest and most +typical of the lot to sit for her photograph,<a name="Pg_2-67" id="Pg_2-67"></a> +which I look upon as quite an achievement, +considering that it might have cost her life or +mine or both. As it was it went pretty well, +and when I gave her a few silver pieces, she +screamed with delight and sounded them on a +stone to make sure they were good.</p> + +<p>Women blackened their eyes underneath artificially, +which gave them a languid but ardent +appearance. Their long, wild, curly hair hung +loose at the side of the head, over which they +wore a kerchief fastened into a knot under the +chin. Their costume was simple, a mere short +blue cotton skirt reaching below the knee, +and a little red loose shirt with ample sleeves. +Various silver ornaments and charms, mainly +old coins, hung round their necks from leather +cords.</p> + +<p>The arms and legs, quite bare, were well-shaped +in most cases, and showed abnormal +muscular development, due, no doubt, to the +hard work the women were made to endure. +They were positively used as beasts of burden—which +occupation they seemed to like—while +the men, I presume, lazily sat about smoking +their tobacco or opium. But the body—very +likely owing to the same reason—is, from a +European point of view, quite shapeless, even +in comparatively young women hardly above +twenty. Their little blouses, generally torn or +carelessly left open, display repulsively pendent +breasts and overlapping waists, while the abdominal +region, draped by a thin skirt, appeared +much deformed by undue development.<a name="Pg_2-68" id="Pg_2-68"></a></p> + +<p>These facts are given as they were typical of +the majority of women in the place. The diet +and the strain of lifting and carrying huge +weights on the head may, to a certain extent, +account for these evils. I also saw one or two +cases of varicose veins.</p> + +<p>The children seemed very pale and anaemic, +a condition which has been mainly brought +about, I think, by the constant intermarriage +among relations.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-017.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-017_th.jpg" alt="Naiband Barber Stropping a Razor on his Leg." title="Naiband Barber Stropping a Razor on his Leg." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Naiband Barber Stropping a Razor on his Leg.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-018.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-018_th.jpg" alt="A Woman of Naiband." title="A Woman of Naiband." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Woman of Naiband.</p> + +<p>Men, women and children possessed admirable +teeth, of a slightly yellowish tint, very thick, +powerful and regular enough, although the +front teeth were rather too long, especially in +adults. They were, however, generally well +protected and covered by the lips, almost +invariably tightly closed.</p> + +<p>The people, I noticed, had a tendency to +breathe mostly through the nose. Their nostrils +were wide, well-cut and healthy looking. They all +possessed very keen eyesight, but not good hearing.</p> + +<p>The want of expansion of the men's chests +was a striking feature of masculine anatomy at +Naiband, and, in fact, the profile silhouette of +members of the Naiband strong sex was not +unlike that of a phonograph trumpet resting on +the ground, for they wore trousers of enormous +size, divided skirts of the largest pattern, pure and +simple, and little jackets over them with broad +sleeves and buttoned over on the right shoulder. +It seemed almost that the further we got into +the desert the larger the trousers of the men in +the oases. Some of the men had several yards<a name="Pg_2-69" id="Pg_2-69"></a> +of material draped round their legs, in Hindoo +fashion, instead of trousers.</p> + +<p>The colours of their clothes were white and +dark blue, while their headgear consisted of a +double skull cap, a thin, coloured one underneath +and a light brown, thick felt one over it. +The men were either barefooted or wore sandals.</p> + +<p>Things went fairly well while we remained +talking in the village, but in the meantime the +entire population had turned out, and for some +reason of their own again became rather boisterous. +Having seen all there was to be seen I +made my way down to camp as slowly as +possible, followed by a howling mob. The +moment one had one's back turned stones flew +in abundance. The camel man and I went +down the steep incline, and when we reached +the last houses of the village a great number of +people were congregated on the roofs, who +gesticulated frantically and yelled something or +other at me as I passed. One or two of them +had long matchlocks. We had gone but a few +yards when a shot was fired at us, and a minute +or so later another, but no damage was inflicted.</p> + +<p>We went on with assumed calm and stopped, +apparently to look at the scenery all round, but +really to watch what the howling mob behind +were doing, and eventually, when we reached +the foot of the mountain and were out in the +open instead of among rocks, the mob, taken by +panic, bolted, and we saw them scrambling with +great speed up the rocky path to the village like +so many rabbits.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-70" id="Pg_2-70"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_IX" id="V2-CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Misfortunes—Suffocating heat—An expected attack—Electricity—Strayed +camels—A barber and his ways—A track +to Meshed—Pilgrim husband and wife across the desert—Another +long march—A salt stream—Brackish well.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Many</span> misfortunes befel us at this place. We +had made our camp in the oasis of palm trees at +the foot of the mountain, and as the camels were +much worn out we were unable to proceed on +our journey the same evening. The heat during +the night under the palm trees was quite +suffocating, and I had to remove my bedding +into the open where one could breathe a little +better.</p> + +<p>The camel men feared that during the night +we might be attacked by the villagers and we +made ready for any emergency, but nobody +came.</p> + +<p>There was so much electricity in the air that +it gave quite an unpleasant feeling, and had a +curious effect upon one's skin. The cats on +coming in contact with the woollen blankets +discharged sparks all over, and sparks also +snapped from one's fingers on touching anything +that was a good conductor of electricity.<a name="Pg_2-71" id="Pg_2-71"></a></p> + +<p>A wild animal came into our camp during the +night and carried away some newly-purchased +hens. We had been told that there were many +wolves and foxes in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>In the morning we were confronted with +what seemed a disaster. Eleven camels of our +combined caravans had disappeared. Had they +been stolen or had they run away? The camel +men were in tears, and, instead of going to look +for them, sat on the loads sobbing bitterly and +wiping the tears from their eyes with the skirts +of their long coats. A ray of hope arose when +we discovered their tracks. They had made for +some hot water springs, some miles to the east, +and judging from their footprints were evidently +travelling at a great pace. Two men on other +camels were despatched after them, and we had to +resign ourselves to a delay of another day.</p> + +<p>Curiously enough, there was a sudden change +in the temperature, and the thermometer in +the sun only registered 105°, which made us +feel quite chilly after the 140° and 150° of +previous days. Our camp was at an altitude +of 3,810 ft. (at the foot of the Naiband +Mountain).</p> + +<p>Sadek took the opportunity of the delay to +set everything tidy, and we had a great washing +day. He sent for a barber in the village to trim +his hair and beard. The Naiband Figaro was an +extraordinary creature, a most bare-faced rascal, +who had plenty to say for himself, and whose +peculiar ways and roaming eyes made us conceal +away out of his sight all small articles, for fear<a name="Pg_2-72" id="Pg_2-72"></a> +that he should walk away with them. He +carried all the tools of his trade around his +waist in a belt, and ground his razor first on a +stone which he licked with his tongue, then +using his bare arms and legs for stropping +purposes, as snapshotted in the accompanying +photograph.</p> + +<p>The camel men—on whom he was first +requested to experiment—he shaved, splashing +their faces with salt water during the process, +but Sadek, the next victim, produced a cake of +soap with which he luxuriously lathered his own +face, and which the barber scraped gradually +from the chin and cheeks and every now and +then deposited the razor's wipings on his patient's +head.</p> + +<p>We were able to buy some fresh water skins, +and this time they were really water tight. The +natives, naturally, took every advantage of us in +the bargains, but we were able to purchase a lot +of fresh provisions, which we needed badly, and +men and beasts felt none the worse for our +compulsory halt.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the second night we were +waked up by some distant grunts, and the camel +men jumped up in great glee as they had +recognised the beloved voices of some of their +strayed camels. A few minutes later, in fact, the +whole eleven were brought back by the two +men who had gone in search of them. They +had found them some twenty miles off.</p> + +<p>From Lawah to Naiband we had come +practically due north, but from this camp to<a name="Pg_2-73" id="Pg_2-73"></a> +Birjand the way lay due east for the first portion +of the journey. At 160° b.m. (S.S.E.) in the +desert rose a high mountain.</p> + +<p>We had everything ready for our departure, +but the camel men were in a dreadful state as +some villager had told them that the news had +spread that the strong boxes which the <i>ferenghi</i> +had were full of silver and gold—as a matter of +fact there was hardly any left of either—and that +a raid was being arranged for that night to kill +us and rob our baggage when we were starting. +The camel men spent the whole day polishing up +the old rifles they possessed and, much to my +concern for their safety, loaded them.</p> + +<p>To allay their fears we made a sudden start at +5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> instead of at the hour of 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> which +had been previously arranged.</p> + +<p>One mile beyond Naiband a track branches to +the north-east for Meshed, and here we bade +good-bye to a Persian husband and wife—he aged +twenty-eight, she aged twelve—who in the company +of a donkey, were on a pilgrimage from Yezd +to the Sacred Shrine. We had picked them up in a +sorry plight in the desert, the husband riding the +lame donkey, the girl on foot and shoving both +from behind. I could not help admiring their +enterprise. All the provisions they had carried +were a few cucumbers, figs, and a load of bread, +nearly all of which were exhausted when we +found them. On remonstrating with the +strapping youth for riding the donkey while he +made his poor wife walk, he replied that they +had been newly married and it would not do for<a name="Pg_2-74" id="Pg_2-74"></a> +a man to show consideration for a wife so +soon!</p> + +<p>She, being a city girl, was a bundle of clothing +and we could not see her face, but she +seemed a nice meek little thing, with pretty +hands and feet. On being asked whether she +was tired, a thread of voice from under her +<i>chudder</i> said she was, and on being invited to +ride one of my camels on the top of a load, there +was a giggle which meant "yes."</p> + +<p>The selected camel was brought down on his +knees, and Sadek and Ali Murat hauled her up +in the most approved style; she having an +evident joke at her selfish husband for having a +better mount than he after all. Unfortunately, +the poor child was so exhausted that after she +had gone some distance, with the swaying of the +camel she became fast asleep, lost her balance +and fell on her head. Nobody delighted in the +misfortune more than her lord and master, who +did not fail to impress upon her that this was +evidently Allah's punishment for her vanity in +trying to be superior to her better half! Rubbing +her aching skull, and much concerned at +the <i>chudder</i> having got torn, the bride thought +she had better resign herself to walk after all.</p> + +<p>Here, too, as in other parts of the desert, near +mountainous regions we found the usual deep, cut +channels carrying into the desert the overflow of +rain water from the Naiband Mountain, and the +many little hills at its foot; otherwise in the +thirty-six miles which we covered during the +night there was absolutely nothing of interest.<a name="Pg_2-75" id="Pg_2-75"></a></p> + +<p>When we had gone some ten miles from Naiband +the camel men, tired of carrying their +matchlocks, slung them to the saddles and professed +the danger of an attack over. We were +in the open again. I was much troubled by +my fever, which had seized me violently and +brought on aches all over my body.</p> + +<p>We camped at 3,480 feet, having descended +330 feet in thirty-six miles, an almost perfectly +flat stretch except a hillock or undulation here +and there. My fever continued so fierce the +whole day that I had not the strength to stand +up nor the inclination to eat, the exhaustion +caused by the very high temperature being indescribable.</p> + +<p>We left at 7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, meaning to make another +long march. The night was intensely cold, with +a terrific wind sweeping from the north-east. +Several times during the night, when we came +across a tamarisk shrub or two, we halted for a +few minutes to make a bonfire and warm our +frozen hands and toes. We actually came across +a stream of brackish water—four feet broad, and +about two to three inches deep—the largest +stream we had seen since entering the desert, and +having been twelve hours on the saddle to cover +only twenty-four miles, camels and men shivering +pitifully from the cold, and the latter also from +fever, we made camp in a spot where there was +an abundance of tamarisks and a deep well, the +water of which was fully twenty feet below the +earth's surface.</p> + +<p>A small basin had been excavated next to the<a name="Pg_2-76" id="Pg_2-76"></a> +well. We filled it with water by means of a +bucket, and it was a real pleasure to see the +camels crowding round it and satisfying their +thirst of two days. We did not allow them to +drink the water of the brackish stream.</p> + +<p>The elevation of this camp was 3,890 feet.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-77" id="Pg_2-77"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_X" id="V2-CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Intense cold—Dulled sense of taste—Characteristics of the +country—Beautiful stones—Clouds of the desert—A salt +stream—Icicles on the moustache and eyelashes—Longing +for sunrise—Prayers of the camel men—Fedeshk—Ali +Murat meets his wife—Opium dens and opium smokers—Effects +of smoking opium in excess—Fever-stricken people—Dwellings—An +official visitor—Science reduced to +practice—Sadek's idea of sunset and sunrise—"Keshk" +cheese—Arrival in Birjand.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left camp at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on the night of +November 20th-21st, and by midnight the cold +grew intense. The camel men lighted big bonfires +all through the night wherever they found +a few shrubs, but I was so ill with fever that I +had not the strength and energy to dismount +from my camel, on which I was shivering with +cold although well wrapped up in blankets.</p> + +<p>After marching eight miles from our last +camp we came to a brackish well where the +camel men replenished their water-skins. I was +rather interested to see what dulled sense of taste +these men of the desert possessed. When I saw +them making a rush for this well I thought that +probably we had come to fresh water, and on +asking them they said this was a well of excellent +"sweet water." When I tasted it, it was<a name="Pg_2-78" id="Pg_2-78"></a> +so salt that it quite made one's inflamed gums +and palate smart with pain. I noticed some +days later that when we did actually get fairly +sweet water they could detect no difference +between it and the most brackish water.</p> + +<p>We had come through hilly and broken +country, over low passes and narrow gorges +flanking dry river-beds. Then we had entered +another immense flat stretch of <i>lut</i>, quite level +except an occasional solitary hillock breaking +the monotonous line of the horizon here and +there. From one of these hillocks (4,300 feet) +near our camp of November 21st one got quite +an interesting panorama all round.</p> + +<p>The highest mountain in sight was still the +Naiband peak to the south-west of us. A range +which seemed about 50 <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'miles miles'">miles</ins> off spread to +the north-west, and before it—about 20 miles +distant from us—a very long low hill range. +In an arc from our west to our north were distinguishable +several high pointed peaks. A +blackish brown, handsomely cut hill stood +prominent a mile or so from us in the middle +of the plain.</p> + +<p>To the north the country was much broken +up and low. There was a stream of salt water +running from east to west with thick salt deposits +on each side of the water edge. To the north-east +the hills showed no peculiar characteristics +but to the east and south-east could be observed +two short hill-ranges, much indented, of broken +up and corroded rock, similar to the many we +had already found across the desert. To the<a name="Pg_2-79" id="Pg_2-79"></a> +north and to the south of the hill range which +stood to the east of us there were low passes, and +behind them again the flat <i>lut</i>.</p> + +<p>The only thing of real interest in the +absolutely bare parts of the desert is the geological +formation of the soil and the only +amusement is to examine the different beautifully +coloured stones that can be picked up, such +as handsome agates, bits of malachite, crystals, +beautiful marbles, and flints. These are all the +more interesting when one thinks that most of +them may have travelled hundreds, some, thousands +of miles to get there, either brought by +the water when the country was submerged or +shifted on and on by the wind. They all bear +marks of travel, and even the hardest are +polished smooth, the original natural angles of +crystals being in many cases actually worn down +and quite rounded. Sand-polished pebbles of +red jasper, jasper-conglomerates, chalcedony, +quartz and agatescent quartz, pink and brown +corroded limestone, and calcite were the most +frequently met with.</p> + +<p>A desert is, in England, always associated +with glorious sunsets. Why this should be so +is rather difficult to be understood by anybody +reasoning in the right way, because the magnificent +tints of a sunset are caused by moisture in +the air and not by abnormal dryness. All the +time that I was in the desert itself I never saw a +sunset that really had half the picturesqueness of +one of our most modest sunsets in Europe. The +sun disappeared very fast, leaving a slightly<a name="Pg_2-80" id="Pg_2-80"></a> +yellow glow above the horizon, which soon +became greenish by blending with the blue sky +and then black with night. The twilight was +extremely short.</p> + +<p>We seldom saw clouds at all in the desert and +when we did they were scrubby, little, patchy, +angular lumps at enormous heights above the +earth's surface. They were generally white or +light grey. Occasionally they were of the fish-bone +pattern, in long successive ridges, resembling +the waves formed on the sand surface +when shifted by wind. Soon after the sun had +disappeared behind the horizon, these clouds +generally changed their colour from white into +black and made long lines stretching for great +distances across the sky, but adding no beauty +to it.</p> + +<p>Naturally, the play of shifting lights and +shadows upon the desert when the sun shone +above the clouds was quite weird, especially +when the last formation of clouds referred to +cast long bluish shadows slowly moving upon +the brilliantly-lighted, whitish tint of the ground. +Lower upon the horizon line a curtain of a dirty +brownish tint was generally to be seen, due to +particles of sand in the air, otherwise in almost +all cases that came under my observation the +clouds formed well-defined, thin, clean, horizontal +lines, or else when very high up patchy +small skiffs.</p> + +<p>One missed greatly the fat, rolling, globular +clouds which are so common to Europe, and +which fill the sky with fantastic forms. There<a name="Pg_2-81" id="Pg_2-81"></a> +is such a thing as getting tired of an everlasting +spread of blue sky and the glow of a roasting sun.</p> + +<p>A strong westerly gale swept low over the +surface of the desert. It was very cold after +sunset, but fortunately we had plenty of tamarisk +shrubs at hand and camel dung with which to +make big fires.</p> + +<p>The river bed below our camp was very wide, +but the salt stream itself not more than three to +four feet across. It eventually lost itself to the +north-west in the desert. The camels had been +let loose to graze and had a good feed of tamarisk, +which they seemed to enjoy much after their +long diet on reduced rations of straw and cotton +seeds.</p> + +<p>We left this camp (4,120 feet) soon after +dinner at 7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and during the night passed +several ranges of hills, we travelling all the time +on the flat. In the middle of the night the cold +was bitter, so cold that I had icicles hanging on +my moustache and eyelashes. It was impossible +to remain on the camels, and ill as we all felt we +had to walk—drag ourselves would be a more +suitable expression—to keep ourselves from +freezing. On these cold nights we simply +longed for the sun to come out. The dark +hours seemed interminable. One began slightly +to revive when the first glimmering of yellowish +light began to tinge the dark blue sky, and the +dazzling stars gradually lost their brilliancy and +eventually disappeared altogether from the heaven +above us.</p> + +<p>On the first ray of sun appearing the devout<a name="Pg_2-82" id="Pg_2-82"></a> +camel men stopped the caravan, spread a small +cloth upon the ground, and, having picked up a +small stone, placed it in front of them. They +duly turned towards sacred Mecca and lifted their +arms, then, muttering their prayers, knelt and +placed their heads upon the ground, as we have +already seen others do, in the usual Mussulman +manner. They were most diligent in this +respect, and one could not help admiring the +intent fervour of their appeals to Allah. At +sunset, too, their prayers never failed to be recited—no +matter what they were busy doing at the +time, all being interrupted for the purpose.</p> + +<p>At 5.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we arrived at a village called +Fedeshk—quite a large place, situated in a flat +oblong plain ten miles long and a mile and a half +wide, surrounded by low hills on all sides.</p> + +<p>On being asked why he had made the camels +go so fast on this march, Ali Murat, my camel +man, blushingly confessed that in this village was +his home and his wife, whom he had not seen +for eight months. The anxiety to see his better +half, who lived only a stone-throw from where +we made camp, did not, however, prevent him +looking carefully after his camels, whom he +placed first of all in his affection, and smoking +Sadek's cigarettes, and a pipe with the other +camel men, and waiting till my tea had been +brewed to receive his customary six cups. After +all this had been gone through, which took the +best part of two hours, he disappeared and we +did not see him again for the remainder of the +morning.<a name="Pg_2-83" id="Pg_2-83"></a></p> + +<p>The people of Fedeshk were striking for two +reasons, first for being sadly fever-stricken, +secondly because they were addicted to opium +smoking to a <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'diastrous'">disastrous</ins> degree. There were a +number of opium dens in the place, and I went +to see them. They were dreadful places, in +which one would suspect opium smoking was +not the only vice indulged in by the natives.</p> + +<p>As I entered one of these houses, after a +considerable knocking at the door and a great +rustling of people running about the small courtyard +inside, we were admitted into a room so +dark that I at first could discern nothing at all. +The pungent, sickening odour of the opium pipes +gave one quite a turn, and I lighted up a match +to see where I was.</p> + +<p>There were men lying about on mats in a +semi-stupefied state, and men attendants refilling +the pipes—similar to those used in China, a cane +holder with earthenware pipe in which tiny pills +of opium were inserted and consumed over the +flame of a small lamp. Several of the men were +in such a torpid state that they mechanically +inhaled the opium smoke when the pipes were +pressed to their lips, but were hardly cognizant +of what went about around them. The opium-den +keeper in the meantime did a roaring business, +and had a little scale on which he weighed +the opium that he served out.</p> + +<p>It seemed evident, as I lighted match after +match, by certain articles of ladies' attire which +in the hurried departure had been left behind in +the room, that the usual attendants of the smokers<a name="Pg_2-84" id="Pg_2-84"></a> +were women, but they had stampeded away on +our arrival. One heard them chuckle in the +adjoining rooms, and in their haste, they had +left behind a great many pairs of slippers at the +entrance of the room.</p> + +<p>I had two men conveyed out into the sun +where I wanted to examine them. The pupils +of their eyes had contracted to a most abnormal +extent, even before they were exposed to the +sunlight, and seemed to have almost lost the +power of expanding and contracting in various +lights, and although the eyes were wide opened +and staring they did not seem to discern what +was placed before them. The eye-ball had a +yellowish tinge and the iris was not well-defined +but seemed to have undergone discoloration +and faded away into the white of the eye. +They seemed affected by a kind of temporary +atrophy.</p> + +<p>The pulse beat extremely slow and faintly; +the lips were drawn tight; the hearing so dulled +that even loud noises seemed to have no effect +upon them. The body was flabby and almost +lifeless. It was not possible to obtain an answer +to anything one asked them. They had quite a +cadaverous appearance, with yellowish, pallid +skins, sunken eyes, and teeth showing fully under +the drawn lips.</p> + +<p>Only now and then, as one watched them, a +sigh, followed by a shiver or a grunt, came forth +to show us that they were still alive. The +fingers and toes displayed some muscular contraction, +but not the other joints, which were<a name="Pg_2-85" id="Pg_2-85"></a> +quite loose. The heart beat so feebly that one +could hardly feel it.</p> + +<p>They remained spread out in the yard in the +positions we had placed them, and were indeed +most pitiful objects. The den-keeper told me +that these two men were most inveterate smokers, +and were at it the whole time until they became +quite unconscious.</p> + +<p>There were other men in a slightly better condition, +but all more or less showing the same +symptoms of stupefaction. Those that could +mutter words said that it was an irresistible +passion that they could never stop. The opium +gave them no dreams, they told me, but a +delicious feeling of absolute contentment and +happiness, which they could never experience +when not indulging in this disastrous vice.</p> + +<p>On looking upon things impartially, however, +one came to the conclusion that, bad as it was, +opium-smoking had certainly more peaceful and +less disgusting effects upon those unfortunates +addicted to it than whiskey or absinthe, or votka +drunkenness, for instance.</p> + +<p>The entire population of this village was, +unfortunately, given to this bad habit, and it was +quite pitiable to look upon their haggard, staring +faces, and idiotic expression.</p> + +<p>Malarial fever is very prevalent at Fedeshk, +and some of the corpse-like people affected by it +came to my camp for medicine. They were not +unlike walking skeletons, with stringy hands and +feet and a skin of ghastly yellow colour. They +had parched, bloodless ears, curled forward, and<a name="Pg_2-86" id="Pg_2-86"></a> +sunken cheeks, with deep sunk-in eyes. In the +more virulent cases fever was accompanied by +rheumatic pains so strong as practically to +paralyse the legs and arms, which were reduced +to a positive minimum of flesh.</p> + +<p>The dwellings of Fedeshk were not impressive. +Mud hovels as usual, with domes over the +rooms, as everywhere in Persia, only the familiar +aperture, instead of being directly in the centre +of the dome itself, had a kind of hood over it to +screen it from the terrific winds of the West.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-019.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-019_th.jpg" alt="Fever Stricken Man at Fedeshk." title="Fever Stricken Man at Fedeshk." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Fever Stricken Man at Fedeshk.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-020.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-020_th.jpg" alt="The Citadel, Birjand." title="The Citadel, Birjand." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Citadel, Birjand.</p> + +<p>It is to be noticed in connection with these +winds that to the west of Fedeshk there +are rather high mountains, and even winds +originally not coming from the west may be +turned back or switched in that direction by this +chain of mountains.</p> + +<p>A large ice store-house is met with at the end +of the village, which testifies to the intense cold +that can be experienced here in the winter +months.</p> + +<p>An official residing in the place sent word +that he would call upon me, and we made a +grand display of all the carpets we possessed to +receive him. He arrived with a number of +servants, and we had a very pleasant interview, +with great consumption of tea. He was extremely +civil; inquired whether he could be of +any assistance, which was politely declined, and +showed intense interest in my firearms and scientific +instruments. He and his people were amazed +when I told them that their village stood at an +elevation of 4,620 ft. above sea level, and explained<a name="Pg_2-87" id="Pg_2-87"></a> +to them how I had measured the height by means +of aneroids and the hypsometrical apparatus.</p> + +<p>"These are wonderful!" he said, with a +salaam, as he handed me back the instruments +which had been eagerly examined by all present. +"And," he added, "can you also measure the +length of cloth with them?"</p> + +<p>A compass, too, he had never set eyes upon; +and he at first thought that it was constructed to +point towards Mecca! Had not one long ago +got accustomed to similar questions often asked +one by London people, the innocence of the +Persian official might have taken one's breath +away, but this was nothing to what happened +later.</p> + +<p>The Persians showed great curiosity to learn +everything in connection with whatever foreign +articles I possessed and the respective prices I had +paid for them. Then Sadek was closely examined +as to the amount of food I ate every day, the +salary I paid him, and why I had come across +the desert. Was I a Russian or an Englishman? +The officer had never seen either, but heard both +well spoken of. He had understood that all +Englishmen had yellow hair; why had I dark +hair? London, he, like most Persians, believed to +be a suburb of Bombay, connected with Russia +by means of a "machine road,"—a railway!</p> + +<p>Why on earth did the <i>ferenghi</i> want to know +how high mountains were? Did the <i>ferenghi</i> +know how to find gold in the earth? and so on, +were the queries which Sadek had to answer.</p> + +<p>With repeated salaams, preceded by a thousand<a name="Pg_2-88" id="Pg_2-88"></a> +other questions, the official departed; but Sadek, +who was much excited, was still bent on a highly +scientific conversation to the following effect:—</p> + +<p>"Sahib," he said, "you have travelled in many +countries, have you not?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"Sahib, have you been to the country where +the sun 'goes to sleep' in a hole in the earth +every evening?"</p> + +<p>That was Sadek's idea of a sunset! His idea +of a sunrise was that a brand-new sun was sent +up every day, and this explained how it was that +it rose from the opposite side to that on which +it had "gone to sleep."</p> + +<p>Ali Murat, looking somewhat washed out and +absent minded, came back to camp at noon, +garbed in a very handsome new coat which his +wife had woven and embroidered for him during +his absence. He was very proud of it.</p> + +<p>We left Fedeshk an hour later, as I was very +anxious to reach the city of Birjand the same day +if possible. We were now again in fairly inhabited +country, and on our hurried march passed +a great many villages, large and small, such as +Shahzileh, Mazumabad, Tagot, Siaguih, Shamzabad. +Further, at Ossenabad, is to be seen a +ruined country-house of the Governor of Birjand, +then the last two villages of Khelatekhan and +Khelatehajih.</p> + +<p>Ali Murat seemed rather dazzled on this last +march, and was so worn out that he threw +himself down upon the ground several times, +regardless of spoiling his smart new coat. In a<a name="Pg_2-89" id="Pg_2-89"></a> +moment he became fast asleep, and it took +some rousing to make him get up again. His +wife had given him a bag of <i>keshk</i>—a kind +of cheese, which looked like hardened curdled +milk—and of this he partook freely to try and +regain his former strength. Keshk cheese was +very hard stuff to eat and took a lot of chewing. +To prevent it getting too hard it had to be +soaked in water every few days.</p> + +<p>We had a nasty wind against us, but the way +was flat and good; our direction, due east across +the long narrow valley of sand, nowhere broader +than a couple of miles. To the north were a +number of low hills shaped like so many tents, +white, grey, and light-red in colour, and also to +the south, where there was an additional irregular +and somewhat higher rocky mountain.</p> + +<p>In the evening of November 24th we had +crossed the entire Salt Desert and arrived at the +large city of Birjand, after Meshed the most +important city of Khorassan, the journey having +occupied twenty days, which was considered a +very fast crossing.</p> + +<p>There was a beautiful new caravanserai here, +with clean spacious rooms, and with a most +attentive and obliging keeper in charge of it.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-90" id="Pg_2-90"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>My caravan disbanded—Birjand—Ruined fortress—The city—Number +of houses—Population—The citadel—Artillery—Trade +routes—Birjand as a strategical position—A +trading centre—No fresh water—The Amir—Indian +pilgrims—Birjand carpets—Industries—A pioneer British +trader—Imports and exports—How business is transacted—Russian +and British goods—Long credit—A picturesque +caravanserai—Afghan soldiers—Beluch camel men.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> Birjand, my camels being utterly exhausted, +I disbanded my caravan, paid up Ali Murat, and +attempted to make up a fresh caravan to proceed +to Sistan. This would take two or three days at +least, so I employed my time at first by seeing all +that there was to be seen in the place, then by +receiving various official callers, and last in trying +to shake off the fever, which I partially did by +very violent but effective methods.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-021.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-021_th.jpg" alt="The City of Birjand, showing main street and river bed combined." title="The City of Birjand, showing main street and river bed combined." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">The City of Birjand</span>, showing main street and river bed combined.</p> + +<p>We entered Birjand from the west by a wide, +dry river bed which formed the main street of +the city. A ruined fortress which seemed at one +time to have been of great strength, was to be +seen on the western extremity of the town on a +low hillock. The interior was quite interesting, +with several tiers showing how the walls had +been manned for defensive purposes.</p> + +<p>The general view of Birjand reproduced in<a name="Pg_2-91" id="Pg_2-91"></a> +the illustration was taken from the fort and gives +a better idea of the place than any description. +It can be seen that the city is unequally divided +by the combined river-bed and main street, the +northern portion (to the left of observer in the +photograph) having merely an extensive graveyard, +a few houses, the large caravanserai at which I had +halted, and a row of shops; whereas, on the +southern side was the bulk of the houses, two, +three and some even four storied, all of a +monotonous greyish colour, the buildings being +mostly of sun-dried mud bricks. The little +windows in sets of threes and fives, with brown +wooden shutters, relieved to a certain extent the +dulness of the architecture, while a certain relief +to the eye was afforded by a dome and another +building, both painted white, in marked contrast +to the mud walls. Many houses had long +verandahs and balconies, on which the women +spread their washing.</p> + +<p>As the city was built in terraces upon undulating +ground and two higher hills, it covered +a greater area than it at first appeared to do. +The streets were very tortuous and narrow, arched +over in some places, forming long dark tunnels, +many of the dwellings having rooms over them +directly above the roadway.</p> + +<p>Making a rough guess, there were, I daresay, +some 3,500 to 4,000 houses in Birjand and its +suburbs, with a population of not over 30,000 +souls. These figures, the natives said, were about +correct, but no exact statistics existed.</p> + +<p>The higher point of Birjand was at its south-<a name="Pg_2-92" id="Pg_2-92"></a>east +portion, and at the most extreme south-east +point of the town at the bottom of the hill was +the high, square, fortress-like enclosure with +bastions and a high tower, as represented in the +illustration. It was in a dilapidated condition, +but was, nevertheless, the only structure in +Birjand which had a claim to some picturesqueness. +It was the old citadel, inhabited at one +time by the Amir. The wall of the citadel +facing south had a large window with <i>musharabeah</i> +woodwork, and a lower building to the +side. The adjacent building also had quaint +balconies.</p> + +<p>A good view of the whole city was obtained +from a high, isolated building to the south of +the town, in the centre of a large but somewhat +untidy fruit garden, an official residence, but +now very little used except in cases of emergency +to accommodate passing officials or distinguished +people.</p> + +<p>There were some Persian military officers +staying there and they most kindly showed me +all that there was to be seen, after having +entertained me to some refreshments. They +conveyed me inside the citadel where they +proudly showed me a battery of six nine-pounder +guns of obsolete Austrian manufacture; an +eighteen pounder bronze gun and another gun +of a somewhat smaller calibre, both of Persian +make. They were very carelessly kept, there +being apparently only a ragged boy or two to +look after them.</p> + +<p>The officer told me that the garrison of<a name="Pg_2-93" id="Pg_2-93"></a> +Birjand consisted of one thousand men, about +one hundred of whom were stationed in Birjand +itself, the rest being scattered in the villages +around and at one or two posts along the Afghan +frontier. For the accuracy of this statement, +however, I leave the entire responsibility to the +officer.</p> + +<p>He was much distressed when I inquired +whether the soldiers were ever drilled in artillery +practice, and he said it could not be done +because they had not sufficient ammunition, but +they possessed some gunpowder. He agreed +with me that artillery would be of little use if +there was no one who knew how to use it, and +no ammunition at hand!</p> + +<p>Birjand being so near the Afghan frontier and +having direct roads to Meshed, Herat, Sabzawar, +Anardar, Farah, Lash, Sistan, Beluchistan, Bandar +Abbas, Kerman, Yezd, Isfahan, and Teheran, is +a place of interest from a strategic point of view. +In its present condition it could not possibly +offer any resistance. The city and citadel can be +commanded from many points on the hills to the +north-east and east, and the citadel—even +allowing that it were strong enough to make +a resistance—could be shelled with the greatest +ease at close range from the hill on which now +stands the ruined fortress west of the city. This +point could be reached in perfect safety and would +afford absolute cover under fire from the citadel, +but with modern artillery even of moderate +calibre would prove fatal to the citadel itself.</p> + +<p>Birjand is probably the greatest commercial<a name="Pg_2-94" id="Pg_2-94"></a> +centre in Eastern Persia, its transit trade at various +seasons of the year being very extensive from +all the routes above-mentioned. Agriculturally, +Birjand could not even support its own population, +for the water supply is scanty and bad. +There is no fresh water obtainable in the city, +but brackish water is a little more plentiful. A +small spring of good water is, however, to be +found some two miles from the city, and there I +daily sent a man to bring us a supply.</p> + +<p>In war time, therefore, the city could not +support nor aid an army, which would fare +badly if locked up here. Possibly in some +seasons it might supply some camels, horses and +mules, but no food.</p> + +<p>That the Persians themselves believe this an +untenable place in time of war is evident, as this +is one of the few large cities in Persia which is +not surrounded by a wall.</p> + +<p>The Amir, or Governor, does not live in +Birjand itself but half a farsakh, or two miles, +across the plains to the S.S.E., where he has a +handsome residence in a pretty garden. Much +to my regret I was too unwell to go and pay my +respects to him, although I carried an introduction +to him from H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan, the +Shah's brother. He very kindly sent to inquire +after my health several times during my stay, +and the Karghazar was deputed to come and +convey these messages to me.</p> + +<p>One cannot speak too highly of the extreme +civility of Persian officials if one travels in their +country properly accredited and in the right way.<a name="Pg_2-95" id="Pg_2-95"></a> +If one does not, naturally one only has to blame +one's self for the consequences.</p> + +<p>One hears a good deal about the advantages of +being a Britisher in any country, and one could +not help being amused at the natives of Birjand +who could not distinguish a European from the +blackest Bengalese. They were all <i>Inglis</i> to +them. Some natives came to announce that a +caravan of twenty of my own countrymen had +just arrived—which gave me quite a pleasant +surprise, although I could hardly credit its truth. +On rushing out of my room to greet them, I +found myself confronted with a crowd of black-faced, +impudent, untidy Indian pilgrims from +Bengal, on their way to the Sacred Shrine of +Meshed. Most of them were fever-stricken; +others, they told me, had died on the way.</p> + +<p>These caravans have caused a good deal of +friction both with the Persian and Russian +authorities, for fear that they should bring +plague into Persia and Transcaspia. When one +saw these fanatics—religious people can be so +dirty—one could not with any fairness blame +the authorities for making a fuss and taking +stringent measures to protect their own countries +and people from probable infection. True, it +should be remembered that the journey of 600 +miles across the hot Baluchistan desert to +Sistan, and the 500 more miles to Meshed, +ought to have been a sufficient disinfectant as +far as the plague went, but their wretched +appearance was decidedly against them.</p> + +<p>These pilgrims were a great nuisance; they<a name="Pg_2-96" id="Pg_2-96"></a> +traded on the fact that they were under British +protection; they lived in the most abject +fashion, continually haggling and quarrelling +with the natives, and decidedly did not add to +our popularity in Eastern Persia, to say nothing +of the endless trouble and worry they gave to +our officials at the Consulates and on the route.</p> + +<p>As I have said, the natives do not know the +difference between these men and Englishmen, +and believe that all British subjects are of the +same stamp—by which one cannot quite feel +flattered. If these pilgrimages could be gradually +restricted and eventually stopped, I think +everybody all round would benefit,—even the +pilgrims themselves, who might possibly not +feel so holy, but whose health would not be +impaired by the fearful sufferings they have to +endure to gain—and often obtain very prematurely—a +claim to a seat in heaven.</p> + +<p>The opening up of the Nushki route from +Quetta to Sistan and Meshed is responsible for +the great influx of pilgrims, who have been +attracted by the glowing reports of how easy it +is to travel by this route. And so it is very +easy, for men accustomed to that particular kind +of travelling, like myself or like traders or +Government officials, who can travel with all +they want, and just as they please, but not for +people who have to live from hand to mouth +and who are destitute of everything. Those +fellows have no idea whatever, when they start, of +what they will have to endure on the road.</p> + +<p>There is not much local trade in Birjand, but<a name="Pg_2-97" id="Pg_2-97"></a> +quite a brisk transit trade. The industries are +practically confined to carpet-weaving, the carpets +being renowned all over Persia for their +softness, smooth texture, and colours, which are +said never to fade, but the designs upon them +are not always very graceful nor the colours +always artistically matched. The most curious +and durable are the camel-hair ones, but the +design, usually with a very large medallion in +the centre, does not seem to appeal to European +eyes. Even the smallest rugs fetch very large +sums. Although called Birjand carpets they are +mostly manufactured in some of the villages +north of Birjand, especially at Darakush.</p> + +<p>Among the shops there are a few silversmiths', +some blacksmiths', and some sword and gunsmiths'. +The latter manufacture fairly good +blades and picturesque matchlocks.</p> + +<p>The trade caravanserais in the town are +quaint, but to me most interesting of all was +the one approached by a sharp incline—a very +old one—where an Indian British trader had +started business, attempting to further British +trade in these regions. This man, by name +Umar-al-din Khan, of the firm of Mahommed +Ali of Quetta, was really a remarkable fellow. +If Russian trade has not yet succeeded in getting +a fair hold in Birjand, if British trade has it so +far almost altogether its own way, we have only +to thank the tact, energy, patience, and talent of +this man. The patriotism, enterprise, and hard +labour of Umar-al-din and his firm deserve +indeed the greatest credit and gratitude.<a name="Pg_2-98" id="Pg_2-98"></a></p> + +<p>Birjand is a most interesting point commercially +because it will be here that Russian +and British competition in Eastern Persia will +eventually come into collision.</p> + +<p>The main imports of the province of Kain, +of which Birjand is the capital, are now English +and Russian made merchandise. English goods +are so far preferred and realize higher prices, +because of their better quality. The articles +principally required, and for which in retail the +natives are ready to pay well, are ordinary +cotton, woollen and silk cloths, household iron, +copper, brass vessels, loaf-sugar, glass-ware and +crockery, especially of shapes suitable for Persian +uses. Indian tea sold very well at first, but +the market is greatly overstocked at present and +great caution should be exercised by Indian +exporters.</p> + +<p>Russian sugar, being of a much cheaper quality, +is rapidly driving out of the place French and +Indian sugars, but the quality of Russian sugar is +so bad that of late there has been rather a reaction +in favour of Shahjahanpur Rosa (Indian) +sugar.</p> + +<p>There are in Birjand several native merchants +having fair amounts of capital at their disposal, +but it appears that the prices which they are +willing to pay are so low and the credit required +so long, that it is most difficult to do business +with them. The retail business is, therefore, +more profitable than the wholesale.</p> + +<p>The competition in Russian-made cotton +cloths and tea is getting very keen and the<a name="Pg_2-99" id="Pg_2-99"></a> +Russians can sell these things so cheaply that it +is not possible for Indian traders to sell at +their prices. Also the Russians have learnt to +manufacture the stuff exactly as required by the +natives.</p> + +<p>The glass ware and fancy goods are chiefly +sold to the better class people, but no very great +profits, especially to passing trading caravans, can +be assured on such articles.</p> + +<p>The exports consist of wool and skins to +Russia, and to Bandar Abbas for India; carpets +to Russia, Europe and India; <i>Barak</i>, a kind of +woollen cloth, to various parts of Persia; opium +to China <i>via</i> Bandar Abbas; saffron, caraway +seeds, <i>onaabs</i>, etc., to India, also <i>via</i> Bandar +Abbas, and some English and Russian merchandize +to Herat.</p> + +<p>Birjand is the commercial pivot, not only of +the trade of North-eastern Persia, but also of +Western Afghanistan. The commercial supremacy +of this town will decide whether we are able in +the future to hold our own in the south or not; +but once driven back from this centre we may as +well—commercially—say good-bye altogether to +the northern and central Persian markets; while +even the southern markets will be very seriously +attacked, as far as goods coming overland are +concerned.</p> + +<p>Umar-al-din has made a most careful and +serious study of the trade of Eastern Persia, and I +am certain that if we were to encourage a number +of other Indian traders of the same type to +establish themselves in Birjand, with possible<a name="Pg_2-100" id="Pg_2-100"></a> +branches in Meshed, England could make rapid +headway against any foreign competition. Being +an Asiatic himself, although Umar-al-din has +travelled, I believe, in Australia, England, etc., +and speaks Hindustani, Persian and English +perfectly, he is able to deal with the Persians in +a way in which a European would not be so +successful. He is on most friendly terms with +H. E. Shan-kal-el-Mulk, the Governor, and all +the local officials, by whom he is held in much +respect and who have at various times made most +extensive purchases in his shop to the amount of +several thousand tomans' (dollars) worth of British +goods.</p> + +<p>On one occasion he imported for the Amir and +his son a first-class double barrel English gun of +the latest type, some revolvers, a bicycle, with a +lot of European furniture for which he received +immediate payment in cash of 4,000 rupees.</p> + +<p>Umar-al-din was the first Indian trader to open +a shop in Birjand. By this means he has exercised +great influence over the Persian merchants +of the place, and has induced the leading ones +to trade with India, in preference to Russia, by +the Nushki-Quetta route. His good work has +been reported to Government by Major Chevenix +Trench, then H. B. M. Consul in Sistan, now +Consul in Meshed, by Lieutenant-Colonel +Temple, Major Benn, and others.</p> + +<p>On his arrival in Birjand he acted as Agent for +the British Government, and was for ten months in +charge of the Consular postal arrangements from +Sistan to Meshed, while advising the Government<a name="Pg_2-101" id="Pg_2-101"></a> +on the best ways of promoting trade in those +regions, a work which he did mostly for love +and out of loyalty.</p> + +<p>He has experimented a great deal, and his +experience is that indigo is the article which +commands the greatest sale at present, then plain +white and indigo dyed cottons of two qualities, a +superior kind with shiny surface for the better +classes, and one rather inferior with no gloss for +the lower people. Fancy articles find no sale.</p> + +<p>One of the greatest difficulties that a trader +has to contend with is the impossibility of selling +anything for ready money, and thus making small +but quick profits. Credit has to be given generally +for one year, eighteen months, and even as +long as two years. Even in the few cases where +credit has been allowed for one or two months +the greatest difficulty is experienced in obtaining +payment for the goods supplied, threats and applications +to the Amir being often necessary. Delays +are constant, although the money is always paid +in the end.</p> + +<p>This necessitates keeping the prices very high +to compensate for the loss, but by careful handling +good profits can be made, if sufficient capital is +at hand to keep the concern going.</p> + +<p>The caravanserai in which Umar-al-din had +hired several rooms which he had turned into a +shop was now known by the name of the English +Caravanserai, and nearly all the caravans with +Indian and Afghan goods halted there. When +I went to visit the place there were a number of +Afghan soldiers who had conveyed some prisoners,<a name="Pg_2-102" id="Pg_2-102"></a> +who had escaped into Afghan territory, back from +Herat to Birjand. Their rifles, with bayonets +fixed, were stacked on the platform outside, and +they loitered about, no two soldiers dressed alike. +Some had old English military uniforms which +they wore over their ample white or blue cotton +trousers. These fellows looked very fierce and +treacherous, with cruel mouths and unsteady +eyes. They wore pointed embroidered peaks +inside their turbans, and curly hair flowed upon +their shoulders. At a distance they were most +picturesque but extremely dirty.</p> + +<p>A number of Beluch <i>mari</i>, or running camels, +were being fed with huge balls of paste which +were stuffed down their mouths by their owners. +These camel men were the first Beluch I had +come across, and although they wore huge white +flowing robes, long hair, and pointed turbans not +unlike the Afghans, the difference in the features +and expression of the faces was quite marked. +One could see that they were fighting people, but +they had nice, honest faces; they looked straight +in one's eyes, and had not the sneakish countenance +of their northern neighbours.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-103" id="Pg_2-103"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A loud explosion—Persian military officers—Dr. Abbas Ali +Khan, British Agent in Birjand—His excellent work—Gratefulness +of the natives—A quaint letter—The Russian +Agent—A Russian temporary score—More British Consulates +needed—Visits returned—Altitude and temperature +of Birjand—Cossacks and their houses—A bright scene in +a graveyard—Departure of Indian pilgrims for Meshed—British +Consular postal service—Russian post—Making up +a second caravan.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Early</span> in the morning of the 26th I was +awakened by a fearful explosion that shook the +caravanserai and made everything in the room +rattle. A few minutes later there was a second +report and then a third and fourth, twelve altogether, +but these fortunately not quite so loud. +Evidently my military friends of the previous day +were firing off their artillery.</p> + +<p>Shortly after this, in their gaudy uniforms and +with a guard of soldiers, the officers came to call +upon me at the caravanserai.</p> + +<p>"Have you heard the guns being fired?" was +their first anxious question. Indeed I had. It +appears that to make sure that I should hear them +a double charge of powder was placed in the first +gun. When it was let off in the very small +court of the citadel the concussion had most<a name="Pg_2-104" id="Pg_2-104"></a> +disastrous effects upon the mud walls all round, +as well as upon some of the spectators who were +close at hand and who were nearly stunned by +the fearful report.</p> + +<p>The officers were extremely civil, intelligent +and full of humour. Intense astonishment and +interest was shown in my repeating rifles. +They had never set their eyes upon, nor ever +heard that there was such a thing as, a repeating +rifle! I was, nevertheless, much struck by their +quickness compared with that of the average +European, in grasping the mechanism and the +way to use the weapons.</p> + +<p>They seemed fully to realize that it would be +of little practical use to defend Birjand city in +case of an attack, because it could be commanded +from several excellent positions close at hand to +the north-east, north and north-west. Furthermore, +the water supply could easily be cut off. +They told me, if I remember right, that it was +the intention of the Persian Government to +strengthen this place and that some more pieces +of artillery were expected.</p> + +<p>We have in Birjand an Indian doctor, by name +Abbas Ali Khan, who acts as British Agent. He +is a young fellow of uncommon ability and +education, a capital doctor, and a most gentlemanly +man, who has had great experience of the +world, having travelled with several political +missions in various parts of Asia, including the +Pekin Syndicate Survey expedition under command +of J. W. Purvis, Captain R. E., where not +only did he look after the medical necessities of<a name="Pg_2-105" id="Pg_2-105"></a> +a large party of Europeans, Indians and Chinese, +but helped to manage a large transport of mule +carts. Captain Purvis testifies to Abbas Ali +having performed his professional duties with +zeal, and extraneous duties cheerfully, during a +journey of some 2,000 miles through China.</p> + +<p>It was in April, 1897, that Abbas Ali Khan, at +twenty-four hours' notice, accompanied Major +Brazier Creagh's Mission to Sistan, when British +influence in that part of Persia was non-existent. +The Mission returned to India in October of the +same year, but Abbas Ali was sent on a second +journey to Sistan in charge of a small party +from December, 1897, to July, 1898, when he +was entrusted with political business which +required great discretion and tact.</p> + +<p>It is greatly to his credit that he managed—in +spite of many difficulties and obstacles—to win +the confidence and friendship of officials of a +district where all British subjects were regarded +with undisguised suspicion and distrust. No +better proof of this could be furnished than by +reproducing here a literal translation of a quaint +document, dated May, 1898, given him, unsolicited, +by Mir Masum Sar-tip, Deputy Governor +of Sistan, whose official seal it bears:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"God is acquainted with what is in the minds of men. +Beyond doubt and without hesitation it is rightly and +justly stated that Military Doctor Mirza Abbas Ali +Khan has during the period of his stay in Sistan +displayed his personal tact and natural ability. He +has treated with great civility and politeness any person +who has applied to him for medical attendance and<a name="Pg_2-106" id="Pg_2-106"></a> +treatment of diseases, and has in no case whatever +demanded payment or anything from anybody. He +has never hesitated to give gratuitous medical aid with +medicines or personal attendance, and all the natives +from the highest to the lowest are well satisfied and +under great obligation to him. It is hoped that the +trouble taken and the pecuniary loss suffered by him +will be appreciated by his Government. I have personally +greatly benefited by his treatment of my personal +diseases and ailments and I trust that he will receive +great favour from his Government."</p></div> + +<p>Naturally the medicines are supplied to him +by the Government, but it would be becoming +if the Government saw its way to reward men +of this type for the "soul" which they put into +their work, for this it is after all that wins the +esteem of the natives more than the actual cost +of the medicines. A few grains of quinine, or +a few ounces of castor oil have often been the +means of obtaining information and advantages +for the British Government, which, if properly +used, may be worth millions of pounds sterling.</p> + +<p>It is to these pioneers that the nation should +be grateful, to these people who build sound +foundations on which the Empire can spread +without fear of collapsing we are indebted far +more than to the folks who stop at home and +reap with little trouble the credit of the work +which has been done by others.</p> + +<p>Abbas Ali has gained a most intimate knowledge +of the country and people, which gives +him enormous influence, and he has been the +means of smoothing the way to a considerable<a name="Pg_2-107" id="Pg_2-107"></a> +extent for the new trade route to Quetta. Major +Chevenix Trench, Consul at Meshed, fully +testifies to this, and speaks very highly of +Abbas Ali's political work, and so does Captain +Webb-Ware, in charge of the Nushki-Sistan +road, who writes that in his belief the growth +of British influence in Sistan and Birjand is due +in no small degree to the tact, discretion, and +conscientious discharge of duties of Abbas Ali.</p> + +<p>Abbas Ali was ordered again to Persia in +August, 1899, and has remained there since, +stationed at Birjand.</p> + +<p>The Russians have established a rival agent +to look after their own interests, in the person of +Veziroff Gazumbek, a Perso-Russian subject +and a Mussulman. This man very politely +called upon me in great state, wearing a decoration +of the third class which had just been bestowed +upon him by the Shah, and accompanied by four +Cossacks who were on their way to the Russian +Consulate at Sistan to relieve the escort there. +He and Abbas Ali were socially and outwardly +on excellent terms, but great rivalry necessarily +existed in their work.</p> + +<p>The Russian had gained a temporary advantage +in the eyes of the natives by the honour +conferred upon him by the Shah, and it was a +pity that an exception to the general rule could +not be made and a similar or higher honour +obtained for Abbas Ali, whose work certainly +deserves—one would think—some consideration. +Matters of that sort, although of absolutely no +significance in themselves, are of great import<a name="Pg_2-108" id="Pg_2-108"></a>ance +in a country like Persia, where appearances +cannot altogether be neglected.</p> + +<p>The British Government, one feels, makes a +primary and most palpable mistake in not being +represented by more English Consular officials, +not necessarily sent by the London Foreign +Office, but rather of that most excellent type, +the military Political servants, such as those who +are now found in some few Persian cities. The +establishment of a vice-Consulate here at Birjand +instead of a Medical Political Agency would, I +think, also, be of very great help at the present +moment and would increase British prestige +there.</p> + +<p>The afternoon of that day was spent in returning +the visits of Abbas Ali Khan, the Russian +Agent, and the Karghazar. Everywhere I met +with extreme civility. Both the British and the +Russian Agent lived in nice houses, handsomely +carpeted and furnished, only Abbas Ali's place +had a more business-like appearance than that +of the Russian because of the many books, the +red cross trunks of medicine and surgical instruments +and folding camp furniture. The house +of the Russian was practically in Persian style, +with handsome carpets and cushions, but with +hardly any European chairs or furniture.</p> + +<p>Birjand is very high up, 5,310 ft. above sea +level, and we did not feel any too warm. The +thermometer was seldom more than 60° in the +shade during the day, and from 40° to 50° at night.</p> + +<p>In the evenings the four Cossacks of the Sistan +Consular escort, who had been detained here, and<a name="Pg_2-109" id="Pg_2-109"></a> +occupied one of the rooms of the caravanserai, +sat out in the open singing with melodious +voices in a chorus the weird songs of their country. +These men were really wonderful. They had +come down from Turkestan, a journey of close +upon five hundred miles, riding their own horses, +with only a few roubles in their pockets, and +little more than the clothing they wore, their +rifles, and bandoliers of cartridges. The affection +for their horses was quite touching, and it +was fully reciprocated by the animals. One or +two of the men slept by the horses so that no +one should steal them, and the animals were +constantly and tenderly looked after.</p> + +<p>There was a bright scene in the graveyard +behind the caravanserai, the day that all the +women went to visit the graves and to lay +offerings of food, rice and dried fruit upon the +tombs of their dead. Little conical white tents +were pitched by hawkers, and dozens of women +in their white chudders prowled about like so +many ghosts, or else squatted down in rows +beside or upon the graves. The doleful voices of +blind beggars sang mournful tunes, and cripples +of all kinds howled for charity.</p> + +<p>A Persian crowd is always almost colourless, and +hardly relieved by an occasional touch of green in +the men's kamarbands or a bright spot of vermilion +in the children's clothes. The illustration representing +the scene, shows on the left-hand +side of the observer, the ruined fortress at the +western end of the city of Birjand, and the +near range of hills to the north-west which, as<a name="Pg_2-110" id="Pg_2-110"></a> +I mentioned, would afford most excellent positions +for artillery for commanding Birjand. The domed +building in the centre of the photograph is one +of the dead-houses adjoining every cemetery in +Persia, to which the bodies are conveyed and +prepared previous to interment.</p> + +<p>The Persian Government have a Belgian +Customs official in Birjand, but he generally +spends much of his time travelling along the +Afghan frontier. He had left Birjand when I +arrived.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-022.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-022_th.jpg" alt="Women Visiting Graves of Relatives, Birjand. (Ruined Fort can be observed on Hill.)" title="Women Visiting Graves of Relatives, Birjand. (Ruined Fort can be observed on Hill.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Women Visiting Graves of Relatives, Birjand.</span> (Ruined Fort can be observed on Hill.)</p> + +<p>With more pity than regret I watched at the +caravanserai the departure of the Indian pilgrims +for the Shrine at Meshed. They had obtained a +number of donkeys and mules, and were having +endless rows with the natives about payment. +Eventually, however, the caravanserai court having +been a pandemonium for several hours, all was +settled, their rags were packed in bundles upon +the saddles, and the skeleton-like pilgrims, shivering +with fever, were shoved upon the top of the +loads. There was more fanaticism than life left +in them.</p> + +<p>The four Cossacks, also, who were at the +caravanserai received orders to leave at once for +their post at Sistan, and gaily departed in charge +of the British Consular courier who was to show +them the way.</p> + +<p>This courier travels from Meshed to Sistan +with relays of two horses each, in connection +with the Quetta-Sistan postal service. The service +is worked entirely by the Consuls and by the Agent +at Birjand, and is remarkably good and punctual<a name="Pg_2-111" id="Pg_2-111"></a> +considering the difficulties encountered. There +is also a Persian postal service of some sort, +but unfortunate is the person who rashly entrusts +letters to it. Even the Persian officials themselves +prefer to use the English post. The Russians +have established a similar service from their +frontier to Sistan, but it does not run so frequently.</p> + +<p>The making up a second caravan in a hurry +was no easy matter, but eventually I was able to +persuade one of the men who had accompanied +me across the Salt Desert to procure fresh camels +and convey me there. This he did, and after a +halt of three days we were on the road again to +cross our third desert between Birjand and Sistan, +a distance of some 210 miles.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-112" id="Pg_2-112"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Birjand—A cloud like a skeleton hand—A +downpour—The village of Muht—A ruined fortress—A +beautiful sunset—A pass—Besieged by native callers—Two +towers at Golandeh—Strayed—Curious pits—Sahlabad—The +impression of a foreign bed—Fujiama's +twin.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A large</span> and most respectful crowd collected in +and out of the caravanserai to watch the departure +of my caravan at five o'clock in the evening on +November 27th. We were soon out of Birjand +and, steering a south-easterly course, passed one +or two large mud enclosures with a few fruit-trees, +but otherwise there was hardly any +vegetation visible anywhere—even in the immediate +neighbourhood of Birjand. Everything +was as barren as barren could be.</p> + +<p>Overhead the sky after sunset was most +peculiarly marked by a weird, black, skeleton-like +hand of perfect but gigantic proportions, +spreading its long bony fingers over us. As +night came on, it grew very cold and the +skeleton hand of mist compressed itself into a +nasty black cloud. A few minutes later a regular +downpour drenched us to the skin and the camels +experienced great difficulty in walking on the +slippery mud.<a name="Pg_2-113" id="Pg_2-113"></a></p> + +<p>This was the first rain we had seen, or rather +felt, since leaving Teheran. Our long-unused +macintoshes had been applied to such usages as +wrapping up cases of photographic plates and enveloping +notebooks, so that we could not very well +get at them, now that we needed them, without +taking all the loads down. So we went on until +our clothes were perfectly saturated, when at +least we had the satisfaction of knowing that we +could not get wetter than we were.</p> + +<p>The rain came down in bucketfuls for over +an hour, then luckily stopped, and in a few +moments, with a howling wind rising, the sky +was clear again and the myriads of stars shone +bright like so many diamonds. The cutting +wind and our wet clothes made this march rather +a chilly one, although one felt some relief at the +sensation of moisture after so many months of +intense dryness.</p> + +<p>There was nothing whatever to see on any side, +and I have never thanked my stars so much as +when, after marching thirteen hours, we reached +the village of Muht, a place of fair size in a +picturesque little valley with nice hills on all +sides.</p> + +<p>To the north-east of the village was an interesting +demolished fortress standing on a low +hill. It had a very deep well in the centre +within its walls, which were of stone, with +twelve turrets round it. At the foot of the hill +was a <i>haoz</i>, or water tank, now dry, which the +natives said was very ancient and which they +attributed to the Hindoos. To the west a lake<a name="Pg_2-114" id="Pg_2-114"></a> +was said to exist called Kiemarakalah, by the side +of a mountain not unlike a Swiss roof in shape; +while to the north-east of the fortress were rugged +rocks and low sand-hills. The elevation of this +village was 6,520 feet.</p> + +<p>We left Muht at noon of the same day and +passed a small village on our way, then we +gradually ascended to a pass 7,050 feet high, on +the other side of which was a plain—green not +from vegetation, but because the clayish soil was +of that colour—with hills to the east and west.</p> + +<p>It was hardly possible to imagine more dreary, +desolate scenery than that through which we +were going. There was not a living soul beyond +ourselves anywhere in sight. The camels, which +had caught cold in the shower of the previous +night, had to be given a rest, and we halted again +after a five hours' march. The cold was intense. +Whether owing to the moisture in the atmosphere, +or to some other cause, we had on the +evening of the 28th a really beautiful sunset. +The sky was dazzling with brilliant gold and +vermilion tints.</p> + +<p>At midnight we were again under way, first +across flat, then over undulating country, after +which we got among the mountains and between +precipitous gorges. This was quite a welcome +change, but not for the camels, the way being +somewhat rough and stony.</p> + +<p>We had some little difficulty in going up the +steep pass, 7,200 feet, the camels panting +terribly. We suffered from the cold and the +heavy dew which positively drenched men,<a name="Pg_2-115" id="Pg_2-115"></a> +camels, and baggage. It was quite as bad as +having been out in the rain, we were so soaked. +I, unfortunately, became ill again, fever attacking +me afresh more fiercely than ever; Sadek, +too, and Abbas Ali, the camel man, were also +taken very sick.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the pass we went +through a steep, narrow, and most fantastically +picturesque defile of rocks, and eventually passed +the little hamlet of Golandeh which boasts of +no less than half-a-dozen mud huts and as many +fruit trees.</p> + +<p>We had descended to precisely the altitude of +Muht, or 6,520 feet. From this village the Sistan +track descends for a few hundred yards and then +proceeds in a south by south-east direction over +a flat stretch with some hills. A very high +mountain could be seen to the south by south-west +and another quite pointed to the south by +south-east (at 170° b.m.). To the east-south-east +some twenty miles from Muht, was another +tiny hamlet built against the foot of the mountain +along which we had come. A large plain +opened before us to the south-west.</p> + +<p>At Golandeh we were besieged by natives +applying for medicine, as there seemed to be +hardly a soul in the place who was not affected +by some complaint or other. Affections of the +eyes were most common. Those who wanted +no medicine begged for money or lumps of +sugar,—which latter there is apparently some +difficulty in obtaining here and for which they +seemed to have a perfect craving. Men,<a name="Pg_2-116" id="Pg_2-116"></a> +women, and children implored to be given +some.</p> + +<p>There were two towers at Golandeh, the +lower one quadrangular in shape and two-storied. +The upper floor had recesses in all the rooms for +storing grain and provisions.</p> + +<p>We left camp at 5.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> and all went well +until about ten o'clock, when Sadek took it into +his head that we were travelling in the wrong +direction and proceeded to put us right, I being +fast asleep on my camel. The camel man, +having never been on this route, did not know +the way and depended a great deal on the +bearings I gave him daily by my compass. +When I awoke we had got sadly mixed up +among big boulders and sharp broken-up rocks, +from which the camels had the greatest difficulty +in extricating themselves, and we wasted +a good deal of time in helping the animals +to get on to better ground as they continually +stumbled and fell among the loose +stones. The loads got undone several times +and we were all three so ill that we had not +the strength to tie them up again properly on +the saddles.</p> + +<p>In the course of time I put the party on the +right track again, and for more than one hour +we went up and down steep but not high passes, +through defiles, and across a small stream. We +were following the dry river-bed among rocks in +a gorge, and we arrived at a spot where there was +a rock barrier several feet high beneath us, +which made it impossible for camels to get<a name="Pg_2-117" id="Pg_2-117"></a> +down; so Abbas Ali was despatched to try and +find an easier way while Sadek and I were left +to freeze in a cutting south-west wind.</p> + +<p>The camel man returned and led the camels +back a long distance until we came to a faint +track along a streamlet, which we tried to +follow, but it went along such precipitous +places that we had to abandon it for fear the +camels, who could not get a proper foot-hold, +might come to grief. In Birjand I +had only succeeded in obtaining just sufficient +animals to carry my loads, Sadek, and myself, +and so was not very anxious to run the risk of +losing any and becoming stranded in such an +inhospitable place.</p> + +<p>We eventually contrived to take the camels +down to the flat without any serious mishaps, +and wandered and wandered about and went +over another pass—my compass being all we +had to go by.</p> + +<p>Sadek, whose high fever had affected his +vision, now swore that we were going back +towards Birjand instead of going on, and said +he was certain my compass was wrong; but I +paid no heed to his remarks, and by carefully +steering our course with the compass—which +involved a reckless waste of matches owing to +the high wind—I eventually got the party into +the open, upon a wide plain of sand and gravel. +Here, having shown Abbas Ali the right +bearings to follow, I got upon my camel, again +wrapped myself well in my blankets and went +fast asleep.<a name="Pg_2-118" id="Pg_2-118"></a></p> + +<p>So unfortunately did Abbas Ali, who was tired +out after his exertions among the rocks, and at +3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> I woke up to find the camels going as +and where they pleased, and the camel man, +buried under his thick felt coat, snoring so +soundly upon his camel that it took a good deal +of shouting to wake him up. I had no idea +where we had drifted while I had been asleep, +and the night being an unusually dark one we +could not well see what was ahead of us, so we +decided to halt until sunrise.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-023.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-023_th.jpg" alt="In the Desert. (Tamarisks in the Foreground.)" title="In the Desert. (Tamarisks in the Foreground.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">In the Desert.</span> (Tamarisks in the Foreground.)</p> + +<p>When it grew light in the morning I was +much interested in some curious circular and +quadrangular pits only a few yards from +where we had stopped, which were used as +shelters for men and sheep but were now deserted. +These pits were from four to six feet deep below +the level of the ground, and from ten to thirty +feet in diameter (when circular), a section being +partitioned for sheep by a fence of thick but soft +cane that grows in the neighbourhood of water. +In the part reserved for human beings there was +a circular fireplace of stones, and some holes in +the earth at the sides for storing foodstuff. The +lower portion of the inside wall all round the pit +was of beaten earth up to a height of two feet, +above which a wall of stones carefully fitted one +upon the other was constructed from two to four +feet high, up to the level of the earth. Here a +projecting screen of cane was erected all round +at an angle converging towards the centre of the +pit, for the double purpose of preventing the +sheep escaping, and of sheltering the inmates<a name="Pg_2-119" id="Pg_2-119"></a> +during the fearful sand and windstorms that +sweep with great force along the earth's surface. +The entrance was cut on one side with an incline +to afford easy access to the pit.</p> + +<p>At this particular place there were altogether +some fifteen of these pits, and in one of them +we lighted a big fire with some shrubs we +collected, and rested for some three hours to give +Sadek time to cook my breakfast.</p> + +<p>The difference in the temperature between the +interior of these pits and the open ground was +extraordinary. They were comfortably warm, +even when it was unpleasantly cold as one peeped +out of them.</p> + +<p>While Sadek was busy with his culinary work, +and the camel man chewed dried pieces of bread +and <i>keshk</i> cheese, I proceeded to find our right +way. It lay about one mile to the east of the +pits.</p> + +<p>On resuming our march, five farsakhs (twenty +miles) from Golandeh, we reached Sahlabad, an +unimportant village. South there was to be seen +an extensive white salt deposit, which at first had +all the appearance of a large lake, and a stream +of salt water flowed across the large valley and +through the village from north-east to south-west.</p> + +<p>To the east there was a long range of multi-coloured +mountains, all with high sand accumulations +at their base; greys in several beautiful +tones, were prevalent, and there were stretches of +black, brown, burnt sienna, and a pale cadmium +yellow. To the north-west, whence we had<a name="Pg_2-120" id="Pg_2-120"></a> +come, low hills were visible, and to the south-west +fairly high ones.</p> + +<p>Sahlabad was a depressing place. The natives +were in abject poverty and their habitations +dismal, to say the least. The huts were partly +underground, and the top aperture of the domed +roof was screened by a hood with an opening to +the north-east. No firewood was obtainable at +this place, and the only water the natives had to +drink was the salt water from the stream. At +Sahlabad we had descended to an elevation of +5,050 ft., which made a considerable change in +the temperature.</p> + +<p>We encountered here a large caravan in +charge of Beluch drivers, and among other +curious articles one of the camels carried a +beautiful new enamelled iron bedstead. The +reader may suppose that, after several months of +sleeping on the ground, I wished it had been +mine,—but I did not. On the contrary, I was +particularly struck on that occasion by what an +elaborate, clumsy, useless thing it seemed, +although, as bedsteads go, it was one of the +best!</p> + +<p>To the south stood a high mountain, very +closely resembling in shape the world-renowned +Fujiama of Japan, only this one had a somewhat +wider angle. Beyond the white expanse of salt +to the south-east there was low, flattish country, +but to the west, north-west and south-west, rose +fairly high hills. The valley itself in which we +were was some two and a half miles broad, and +covered with grey sand.<a name="Pg_2-121" id="Pg_2-121"></a></p> + +<p>In the centre of the village in the neighbourhood +of which we camped was a tumbled-down +circular tower, and an octangular tower in two +tiers, also partly ruined. The latter stood at the +corner of an enclosure which at one time must +have been the beginning of the village wall.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-122" id="Pg_2-122"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XIV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Suspicious characters—A trap—Held up—No water—The +haunt of robbers—Fierce daily winds—Volcanic formation—A +crater—Wall-like barriers—A salt stream—A caravan +from Quetta.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> remained at Sahlabad the whole afternoon, +and we were visited in camp by a number of +suspicious-looking people, who were most +inquisitive to know what I possessed and how +much money I carried, and other such pertinent +questions which they put to Sadek and my camel +man. Also a peculiar lot of fellows, with very +ugly countenances and armed to their teeth, +passed by. They were mounted on fine horses +with gaudy saddles, and on coming suddenly and +unexpectedly upon us seemed quite upset. Instead +of salaaming us, as had been usual with the +few well-to-do people we had so far met, they +whipped their horses and galloped away.</p> + +<p>Sadek said they must be Sawars—mounted +soldiers. Abbas Ali said they were robbers from +Afghanistan. We shall see later what they +were.</p> + +<p>At 6.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we left—it was quite dark—and +we had gone but two miles when a distant voice +called upon us to stop. By his speech the<a name="Pg_2-123" id="Pg_2-123"></a> +stranger seemed very excited when he reached +us, and said we must keep the track, to the left +and not follow the one to the right where two +trails branched off. We could not see his face, +for he kept some twenty or thirty yards off, and +besides, his face was wrapped all round in the +tail of his turban. We professed to be thankful +for the information, but continued on the track +to the right, which seemed greatly to disturb him—at +least, judging by the number of times he +entreated us to follow his advice.</p> + +<p>Both Sadek and Abbas Ali corroborated my +conviction that this was a trap laid for us. The +man, on seeing us go a different way from the +one he advised us, ran away, and presently we +heard some shrill whistles which were no doubt +signals to his companions.</p> + +<p>We had gone but another mile when suddenly +a figure with a gun in hand sprang before us +and seized the camel man by the chest.</p> + +<p>"Whose caravan is this?" he shouted.</p> + +<p>"It is the <i>ferenghi's</i>," hastily replied the camel +man.</p> + +<p>There was a short pause in the conversation +when our interlocutor, looking up at my camel +which had got close upon him, perceived himself +covered by my rifle.</p> + +<p>Sadek had leapt off his camel as quick as +lightning and shoved the muzzle of his Winchester +in the man's face. As the stranger's +demeanour was most peculiar and his answers +incoherent as well as flippant, Sadek first disarmed +his adversary, then turned his own rifle<a name="Pg_2-124" id="Pg_2-124"></a> +the round way about and gave the man a good +pounding for his impertinence in holding up my +camel man. We heard a number of voices of +people hidden all around. When the fellow +managed to effect an escape he gave an alarm +signal, and we saw a lot of black figures jump up +and stampede for their lives.</p> + +<p>This furnished a little variation in our dreary +night marches, and we proceeded briskly, Sadek, +Abbas Ali and I being most grateful to our unknown +friends for the amusement they had +provided us.</p> + +<p>Some three miles further we came upon several +caravans that had halted and were hiding, for +they were aware of robbers being about—they +had seen fresh tracks of their horses during the +day and were in fear of being attacked. At first +when we appeared on the scene they mistook us +for brigands, and as we discovered them hidden +we also mistook them for robbers, so that the +beginning of our interview did not lack in +humour.</p> + +<p>We had a hearty laugh over it all when their +identity and ours were established, and after a few +minutes' halt we continued our journey on soft +sand, rather undulating, with frequent depressions +in places. We travelled the whole night of +December 1st, passing to the right of the salt +deposits—which looked like a big stretch of +country covered with snow and threw out a +certain luminosity, possibly because the salt crystals +reflected and condensed what light there +was from the stars. As the hours of the night<a name="Pg_2-125" id="Pg_2-125"></a> +went by we gradually left the salt stretch behind +us to the north, and proceeded on the flat for +some distance.</p> + +<p>In the morning we passed a small village +right up on the mountain side, one mile and +a half to the west of our course. We then +entered a dry river-bed between high sand hills, +and having marched nineteen hours continuously +camels and men were rather in need of a rest.</p> + +<p>At one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on December 1st we pitched our +camp in the middle of the river-bed—80 feet +broad here—the only place where we could get +a draught of air,—but the heat was suffocating, +the thermometer registering 112°—the altitude +being 5,010 feet.</p> + +<p>As we expected to find water of some kind +we had omitted to fill up the skins and load the +camels unnecessarily, but, unluckily, there was +no water anywhere at hand. Abbas Ali was +sent to the village we had passed—now some +four miles back—to get some, but being too +tired to carry the heavy skin down to us again +he entrusted it to a boy, giving him full directions +where our camp was. The boy did not +find where we were, and in the meantime Sadek +and I had our throats parched with thirst. +Abbas Ali returned at seven o'clock and had +to be despatched back to the village in search +of the lost boy and the water skin. It was ten +o'clock when he returned, and after twenty-eight +hours of dryness we had our first drink of water. +It was brackish but it tasted delicious.</p> + +<p>We were compelled to remain here for the<a name="Pg_2-126" id="Pg_2-126"></a> +night. Several caravans passed through going +north, and also a lot of suspicious people, whose +manner was so peculiar that we were compelled +to sit up the greater part of the night and keep +watch on my property. Some of the caravan +men who had gone through had warned us that +we had encamped in a regular nest of robbers, +and that three men had been robbed and +murdered at this spot only a few days before.</p> + +<p>The high sand hills afford excellent hiding +places for these gentry. It appears that the +men on horseback whom we had seen at +Sahlabad, and who had bolted on coming +suddenly upon us, were the high chief of the +robber band and some of his confederates,—very +likely on their way to Birjand to dispose +of booty. Being so near the Afghan border +these fellows enjoy practical safety by merely +going from one country into the other to suit +their plans and to evade search parties occasionally +sent out for their capture.</p> + +<p>We had come forty miles from Sahlabad, and +Abbas Ali brought us the news from the village +that we should find no water on our course for +fifteen miles more and no habitations for forty-eight +more miles. Unluckily, we had hardly +enough provisions to last one day, and we +perceived a fair prospect before us of having to +go one day without food, when Abbas Ali was +despatched for a third time for another eight +miles' walk to the village and back to see what +he could get in the way of edibles.</p> + +<p>He returned, riding a cow, in company with<a name="Pg_2-127" id="Pg_2-127"></a> +another man, and a third fellow on a mule +carrying a fat sheep. The latter was there and +then purchased and killed, and we had a copious +breakfast before starting along the winding dry +bed of the river at 11.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on December 2nd.</p> + +<p>Before us to the south by south-west (190° +b.m.) was a lofty flat-topped mountain which +appeared about fifteen miles off, and directly in +front of our course was also another and more +extensive long, flat-topped mountain stretching +from north-east to south-west, three miles off, +with precipitous sides towards the north-west +and north. The sides were padded with sand +accumulations which reached almost to the +summit of the lower portions of the mountain +barrier. To the south-west, approximately +twenty miles off, stood a high range.</p> + +<p>West and north-westerly winds blew every +day in a fierce manner, usually from sunset till +about ten or eleven o'clock the following morning, +at which hour they somewhat abated. +They are, no doubt, due to the great jumps in +the temperature at sunset and sunrise. On +December 1st, for instance, from 112° in the +sun during the day the thermometer dropped to +20° at night, or 12° of frost. On December +2nd at noon it was up again as high as 114°.</p> + +<p>We traversed a plain twelve miles long and at +its south-east course, where the mountain ranges +met, there occurred a curious spectacle—evidently +of volcanic formation. On the top of the black +hills of gravel and sand lying in a confused mass, +as if left so by an upheaval, rose a pinnacle of<a name="Pg_2-128" id="Pg_2-128"></a> +bright yellow and red stone, with patches of reddish +earth and of a dissimilar texture to the +underlying surface of the hill. There seemed +little doubt that both the rocky pinnacle and the +red earth had been thrown there by some force—and +under the projecting rocks and masses of +soft earth one could, in fact, find a different +formation altogether, bearing the same characteristics +as the remainder of the hill surface.</p> + +<p>This was on the northern slope of that hill. +As the track turned here due east, and rounded, +as it were, this curious mount, we found in reality +on the other side a large, crater-like basin +with lips of confused masses of earth both +vermilion and of vivid burnt sienna colour, +as well as most peculiar mud-heaps in a spiral +formation all round the crater, looking as if worn +into that shape by some boiling liquid substance. +To the south-east, on the very top of a hill of +older formation, was perched at a dangerous +angle another great yellow boulder like the one +we had seen on the north side of the crater. For +a diameter of several hundred yards the earth was +much disturbed.</p> + +<p>One mile further south-east, in traversing a +basin a mile broad, it was impossible not to notice +a curious range of hills with some strange +enormous baked boulders—(they had evidently +been exposed to terrific heat)—standing upright +or at different angles to the east side of the hills, +stuck partly in the sand and salt with which the +ground was here covered.</p> + +<p>Irregular and unsystematic heaps of rock, on<a name="Pg_2-129" id="Pg_2-129"></a> +which sand had accumulated up to a certain +height, were to be seen to the south, and huge +boulders of rich colour lay scattered here and +there; whereas near the mountains which enclosed +the basin both to south and east there +were thousands of little hillocks of rock and sand +in the most disconnected order.</p> + +<p>As we went on, two perpendicular flat-topped +barriers were before us to the east—like gigantic +walls—one somewhat higher than the other, and +of a picturesque dark burnt sienna colour in +horizontal strata.</p> + +<p>The whole country about here seemed to have +been much deranged at different periods. We +passed hillocks in vertical strata of slate-like +brittle stone, in long quadrangular prisms, but evidently +these strata had solidified in a horizontal +position and had been turned over by a sudden +commotion of the earth. This conclusion was +strengthened by the fact that the same formation +in a horizontal position was noticeable all along, +the strata in one or two places showing strange +distortions, with actual bends, continuing in +curves not unlike the letter S. In the dry +river bed there were large rocks cut into the +shape of tables on a single pillar stand, but these +were, of course, made by the erosion of water, +and at a subsequent date.</p> + +<p>Further on we found a tiny stream of salt +water in the picturesque gorge—as weird and +puzzling a bit of scenery as can be found in +Persia, if one carefully examined each hill, each +rock, and tried to speculate on their formation.<a name="Pg_2-130" id="Pg_2-130"></a></p> + +<p>From the rocks—a hundred feet or so above +the salt stream,—we came to a spring—if one +could call it by that name—of delicious sweet +water. The water dripped at the rate of about +a tumbler-full an hour, but a gallon or two had +collected in a pool directly under the rock, with +a refreshing border of green grass round it. +We gladly and carefully transferred the liquid +into one of the skins by means of a cup judiciously +handled so as not to take up the deep +sediment of mud in the shallow pool.</p> + +<p>We came across a very large caravan from +Quetta in charge of some Beluch drivers, and—after +one's experience of how things are packed by +Persian caravans—one was greatly struck by the +neat wooden packing boxes, duly marked and +numbered. I inquired whose caravan it was, +and the Beluch said it belonged to two English +Sahibs who were ten miles behind, and were +expected to catch it up during the night. The +names of the two sahibs were so mispronounced +by the Beluch that I could not, to save my life, +understand what they were.</p> + +<p>We halted in the gorge at four o'clock, having +come only sixteen miles from my last camp. +Altitude, 4,440 feet.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-131" id="Pg_2-131"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sadek's wastefulness—Meeting two enterprising English traders—Another +circular crater—Wind and electricity in the air—Their +effects—A fortress—Soldiers and brigandage—Zemahlabad—Windmills—Bandan—Ancient +tombs—Picturesque +women—Lost our way—A welcome messenger—Nasirabad—"Ruski" +or "Inglis"—Several miles of +villages and houses—English maps and foreign names—Greeted +by Major Benn.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> intended continuing our journey after +dinner. This camp being well screened on all +sides, Sadek gave way to his ambition to have +the camp lighted up by a number of candles, +with which he was always most wasteful. He +had two candles alight where he was doing his +cooking, I had two more to do my writing by, +Abbas Ali had also two to do nothing by. +Luckily, there was not a breath of wind to disturb +the illumination.</p> + +<p>Towards nine o'clock we heard noises of +camels' and horses' hoofs stumbling against the +rocks down the gorge, and my ears caught the +welcome sound of English voices.</p> + +<p>"What can all those lights be?" said one.</p> + +<p>"They look like candles," replied the other.</p> + +<p>"They <i>are</i> candles!" I intervened. "Will +you not get off your horses and have some dinner +with me by the light of them?"<a name="Pg_2-132" id="Pg_2-132"></a></p> + +<p>"Who in the world is that?" queried one of +the riders of the other, evidently taken aback at +being addressed in English in such a queer place +and at such a time of the night.</p> + +<p>"My name is Henry Savage Landor."</p> + +<p>"What? not Tibet Landor? Our names are +Clemenson and Marsh—but what in the world +are you doing here? Have you not some +companions?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, I have. Here they are: three Persian +kittens!"</p> + +<p>As Mr. Clemenson had some big dogs with +him, the moment the cats were let out of the +box to be introduced there was a chase, but the +kittens climbed in due haste up the side of the +cliff and left the disappointed dogs below to +bark. On this high point of vantage they +squatted down and watched our proceedings +below with the greatest interest.</p> + +<p>It was a real delight to meet countrymen of +one's own after so many weeks of loneliness. +These two enterprising English traders had +brought over a very large caravan from Quetta, +and were on their way to Meshed, having done +good business in Sistan. They had with them +every possible article they could think of, from +tea to phonographs, lamps, razors, music boxes, +magic lanterns, bedsteads, cottons, silks, cloths, +chairs, glass-ware, clocks, watches, and I do not +know what else. I believe that it was the largest +caravan of that kind that had ever come over to +Persia from Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>After a pleasant interview of an hour or so,<a name="Pg_2-133" id="Pg_2-133"></a> +and what humble refreshments I could offer, +they were compelled to continue their journey to +the north. The kittens, having anxiously watched +the departure of Mr. Clemenson's dogs, leapt +back from rock to rock and down on to my +carpet, all three sitting as usual in a row in +front of my plate while I was having my +dinner, with their greedy eyes on the meat, and +occasionally also one of their paws.</p> + +<p>We did not make a start till 2.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, when +there was moonlight, as the way was very bad +among stones and boulders. For a short distance +we travelled between high cliffs and boulders, +then between low hills much further apart. On +our left we came to a most peculiar formation of +rock which seemed almost like a castle, and from +this point we got into a long and wide plain, +most uninteresting and swarming with a troublesome +kind of small fly.</p> + +<p>A rugged mountain to the north, being higher +and more vividly coloured than the rest, attracted +the eye, as one tried hard to find something to +admire in the scenery; and to the south-west we +saw the back view of the flat-topped plateau +we had skirted the day before. To the S.S.W. +lay another flat-topped high mountain like the +section of a cone which we had noticed on our +previous march.</p> + +<p>We were now marching due east, and after +some sixteen miles' journey from our last camp +we again entered a hilly portion of country. +We made a halt of three hours, from 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> to +11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, to have our breakfast. Then we<a name="Pg_2-134" id="Pg_2-134"></a> +entered the hills by one of the usual dry +channels formed by the water washing down +with great force in rainy weather from the hillsides. +After half a mile we emerged again into +another plain, three miles long and about equally +wide, with very broken, low rocky mountains to +the east, and low sand hills to the south. To the +south-east, in the direction we were following, +stood a massive-looking mountain, which, however, +possessed no very beautiful lines.</p> + +<p>More interesting and quaint was the circular +crater in a conical mountain to the north-east of +the long dreary plain we were now traversing. +The mouth of this large crater was much lower +on the south-west side than on the north-east, +thus exposing to the full view of the traveller +the entire opening in the centre of the mountain, +reddish-brown in colour.</p> + +<p>Having gone some twelve miles more, we +stopped, at four in the afternoon, in a bitterly +penetrating cold wind, which seemed to have +a most uncomfortable effect upon one's nervous +system. Whether it was that the intense dryness +caused an excess of electricity, or what, I do +not know, but one ached all over in a frightful +manner, and experienced the same tendon-contracting +feeling as when exposed to an electric +current.</p> + +<p>One farsakh before reaching camp we had +passed the camping ground of Angiloh, where a +tiny drip of fresh water exists. We happily +found here a quantity of wood, abandoned by +the Clemenson caravan, which we put on our<a name="Pg_2-135" id="Pg_2-135"></a> +camels and carried further down into the plain, +where, having found a depression in the ground +affording some shelter from the fearful wind, we +halted to wait until the moon rose.</p> + +<p>My fever seized me violently on that night, +and I experienced intense pain in my spine, my +legs and arms, more especially in places where I +had received wounds on previous journeys.</p> + +<p>We left again in the middle of the night at +3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and a great effort it was, too, to get out +of one's warm blankets and scramble on the camel, +aching as I was all over, and with the indescribable +exhaustion that fever of the desert brings +on. Luckily, with the rising of the moon, the +wind had somewhat abated, but the electricity in +the air was as unpleasant as it was extraordinary. +One was absolutely saturated with it, and discharged +sparks from one's finger-tips when one +touched anything that was a good conductor.</p> + +<p>In the morning at the foot of the mountains +we passed a large fortress where, they told me, +twenty soldiers had been stationed the previous +year in order to suppress brigandage that had +been rampant here. Both Afghan and Sistan +robbers seemed to be most partial to this spot, +probably because it is that at which all the +caravans from Birjand and Meshed converge on +their way to Sistan.</p> + +<p>We actually perceived some trees in the distance, +and at last we arrived at Zemahlabad, a +quadrangular fort, with two such peculiar structures +at the sides that I really could not at first +guess what they were. Sadek, called upon to<a name="Pg_2-136" id="Pg_2-136"></a> +explain, was no wiser, and we had to find a +solution to our speculation from one of the local +authorities. They were windmills, and most ingenious +and simple they were, too, when once +one had grasped the mechanism of them. Only +in their case the large opening to the east and +west, to let in and out the wind, had been +screened with elaborate wood-work, and it was +not easy to understand the principle of the device +until one visited the interior. We shall come +later in our journey to some quite superior ones, +which I will endeavour to describe.</p> + +<p>There were many palm trees at this place and +some few patches of vegetation. A great many +mat-sheds had been erected, and hundreds of +cows were to be seen; the land, being marshy, +provided fair pasturages. (Altitude 2,700 ft.)</p> + +<p>To the extreme east of the long valley we +had traversed the Bandan mountains, converged +into an acute angle with those on the opposite +side of the valley, and on the north-east side we +had again the same formation of rock in horizontal +strata with some contortions at its western +end. A salt stream flowed here through a narrow +gorge, between the picturesque, wall-like barrier +to the north and the handsome hills to the +south-west. A great number of palm trees gave +quite a tropical appearance to this gorge, although +the whitish sand mixed with salt impressed one +like dirty snow, and the sky was also whitish and +promising real snow. It was none too hot—thermometer +34°.</p> + +<p>Just before reaching Bandan—also called Dar<a name="Pg_2-137" id="Pg_2-137"></a>ban +by some natives (2,870 ft.)—we noticed on +the precipitous slopes of the mountain to the +south-west several buildings in ruins, said to be +ancient tombs. They were domed. At the +foot of the mountain were the remains of a +village.</p> + +<p>Bandan consisted of a quadrangular walled +village with five high towers and two more +partly collapsed. The lower part of the village +wall—a regular fortress—was of stone and mud, +the upper portion of sun-dried mud bricks. It +appeared to have been built at different epochs, +the south-west half especially seeming more +modern than the north-east portion. Holes +about three feet above the ground in the wall +served the purpose of windows to the houses +adjoining the wall inside the castle, and a stone +of suitable size shoved into the aperture was the +shutter.</p> + +<p>The village wall had two entrances on the +south-east side, where outside the wall could be +seen fifteen small domed ovens, of the usual +Persian type, for baking bread, the paste of +which is plastered on the inside of the dome +when sufficiently heated.</p> + +<p>The highest tower was on the south-west side, +and all of these structures had a foundation of +stone, but the remainder was of mud.</p> + +<p>We saw here a string of picturesque women. +They were carrying loads of wood and heavy +bags of wheat on their heads. On perceiving +me unexpectedly they tried to run away, and +did so, but not before I had got the good snap<a name="Pg_2-138" id="Pg_2-138"></a>shot +of them here reproduced. It can be seen +by this photograph what long steps these women +took, and how those that carried heavier loads +swung their arms about to diminish the effort +and balance themselves. They walked with a +good deal of spring in their knees.</p> + +<p>These women had much stronger features +than the Persian generally have, and resembled—in +fact, were practically—Afghan women. One +or two only had the Hindoo type, with large, +soft, drooping eyes, large hook noses, and over-developed +lips, with small receding chins. The +younger ones were strikingly handsome.</p> + +<p>On our last march we had come from north +to south, but now, after a short halt, we went on +towards the south-east on what we thought would +be our last two marches before reaching Sher-i-Nasrya, +the capital city of Sistan, only some sixty +miles off. Soon after leaving Bandan we found +ourselves in an open plain with gradually +vanishing mountains to the south-west. To the +north-east the wall-like barrier, about one mile +from Bandan, suddenly ceased in a gentle slope. +East and E.S.E., now that the plain became of +immense breadth, one could see two isolated low +hill ranges, barring which, in the arc of a circle +between north-east and south, we had nothing +before us except a flat, dreary stretch of sand and +stones meeting the sky on the horizon line.</p> + +<p>On getting nearer the Hamun-i-Halmund +(swamp), formed by the Halmund river and +others losing themselves into the sand and +flooding part of that region, the whole country<a name="Pg_2-139" id="Pg_2-139"></a> +was covered with high reeds and small water +channels, which constantly made us deviate from +our course. In the middle of the night we got +so mixed up that we were unable to go on. It +is most dangerous to make camels get into water +channels, especially if muddy, without being +certain of their depth. The brutes, if sinking, +are seized with panic and collapse, or, in trying +to get out quickly, often slip sideways and get +split in two, which necessitates their being +killed.</p> + +<p>In the morning we passed two Cossacks from +the Sistan Consulate escort, who, having been +relieved, were now on their way back to Russia. +They gave us a hearty greeting, and shortly after +a messenger from the British Consul in Sistan +handed me a letter, a most kind invitation from +Major Benn to go and stay with him at the +Consulate.</p> + +<p>Towards noon we reached Nasirabad (altitude +2,050 ft.), a very old village founded by one +Malik Nasir Khan Kayani—the <i>Kayani</i>, as is +well known, being the former rulers of Sistan, +and every big <i>Kayani</i> being called "Malik." +We stopped for a couple of hours for lunch, the +principal house in the village being vacated by +the courteous inmates for my use. The arrival +of a <i>ferenghi</i> excited considerable attention, and +numerous and anxious inquiries were made +whether I was a "Ruski" or "Inglis." On +learning that I was "Inglis," they expressed +their unsolicited conviction that all Inglis were +good people and Ruski all bad, and no doubt if<a name="Pg_2-140" id="Pg_2-140"></a> +I had been a Ruski the reverse conviction would +have been expressed with similar eagerness.</p> + +<p>The natives were polite, but extremely noisy, +shouting and yelling at the top of their voices +when they spoke. The men wore large white +turbans over their white skull caps, long blue +shirts, opened and buttoned on the left side, +reaching to below their knees, and the enormous +Afghan trousers.</p> + +<p>From Nasirabad we came across a long uninterrupted +row of ruined villages and towns, +stretching in a line for some eight miles from +north to south. The most northern one had +the appearance of a fortress with a very high +wall, still in fair preservation, and several more +of these fortresses were to be seen along the +line of houses, the majority of dwellings being +outside these forts. The domed houses—some +of which were in perfect preservation—showed +the identical architecture and characteristics of +Persian houses of to-day.</p> + +<p>We were benighted again. Curiously enough, +even within a mile or so from Sher-i-Nasrya, +on asking some natives where the city of <i>Nasirabad</i> +or <i>Nasratabad</i>, as it is marked in capital +letters on English maps (even those of the +Indian Trigonometrical Survey), nobody could +tell me, and everybody protested that no such +city existed. (The real name of it, Sher-i-Nasrya, +of course, I only learnt later.)</p> + +<p>This was puzzling, but not astonishing, for +there is a deal of fancy nomenclature on English +maps.<a name="Pg_2-141" id="Pg_2-141"></a></p> + +<p>Eventually, when I had almost despaired of +reaching the place that night, although I could +not have been more than a stone-throw from +it, I appealed to another passer-by, riding briskly +on a donkey.</p> + +<p>"How far are we from Nasratabad?"</p> + +<p>"Never heard the name."</p> + +<p>"Is there a town here called Nasirabad?"</p> + +<p>"No, there is no such town—but you must +have come through a small village by that name, +two farsakhs off."</p> + +<p>"Yes, I have. Do you happen to know +where the English Consulate is?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes, everybody knows the English +Consulate. I will take you there. It is only +a short distance from here, near the city of +Sher-i-Nasrya!"</p> + +<p>Thanks to this fellow, a few minutes later +I found myself greeted most effusively by +Major and Mrs. Benn in their charming mud +Consulate. This was on the evening of +December 6th.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-142" id="Pg_2-142"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XVI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>English fancy geographical names—Sher-i-Nasrya—The main +street—The centre of the city—Reverence of the natives +for Major Benn—A splendid type of British official—Indian +and Russian goods—The Shikin Maghut cloth—Steadily +increasing trade of the Nushki route—Khorassan +horses for remounts—Husseinabad—Russian Vice-Consulate—Mr. +Miller—Characteristic windmills—"The wind of +120 days"—Benn Bazaar.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Disappointing</span> as it may seem that the natives +themselves should be barefaced enough not to +call their city by the fancy name given it by +certain British geographers, we might as well +explain why the natives call the capital of Sistan +by its real name, Sher-i-Nasrya. The three +words mean the "City of Nasr," Nasr being an +abbreviation of Nasr-ed-din Shah, in honour of +whom the city was named. In Sistan itself the +city goes by the shortened name of mere "Sher" +or "city," but letters sent by Persians from other +parts of the Shah's dominions are generally +addressed Sher-i-Nasrya, or simply Sher-i-Sistan.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-024.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-024_th.jpg" alt="Women at Bandan." title="Women at Bandan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Women at Bandan.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-025.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-025_th.jpg" alt="Dr. Golam Jelami and his Patients." title="Dr. Golam Jelami and his Patients." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Dr. Golam Jelami and his Patients.</p> + +<p>When the place was first conquered by the +father of the present Amir, Mir-Alam-Khan, it +was spoken of as Nusratabad, or the "City or +Victory," just the same as we speak of the "City +of the Commune," or the "Eternal City," or the<a name="Pg_2-143" id="Pg_2-143"></a> +"City of Fogs." The name "Nusratabad" +only applied to the victory and not to the city. +We should certainly not wish to see the names +of the three above illustrations given on maps +for Paris, Rome, or London.</p> + +<p>As for calling the city Nasirabad, as the +Trigonometrical Survey maps do, there is no +excuse whatever for this, which is a mere +blunder—not the only one, unfortunately—and +attributes to the city the name of a small village +some eight miles off.</p> + +<p>The present Sher-i-Nasrya is not more than +twenty years old. It has a double wall all +round, a higher one with semicircular castellated +towers, and a lower on a mud bank with +outwardly projecting semicircular protected +platforms, the walls of which, eight feet high, +are loopholed in a primitive fashion. On the +inner side of the lower wall there is a platform +all along the wall for soldiers to stand upon. +The city wall, forty feet high, is separated from +this outer defence by a road all round the city, +and outside of all there is a moat, but with very +little water in it.</p> + +<p>The wall on the south side (really S.S.W.) +has ten towers, the two central ones being close +together and larger than the others, between +which is the principal city gate, reached by an +earthen bridge and a tortuous way, as the +entrance of the outer wall is not in a line with +the inner. The east and west side have only +eight towers, including the corner ones, the +double towers being the fourth and fifth. Every<a name="Pg_2-144" id="Pg_2-144"></a> +tower is semicircular, with loopholes pointing +towards the sky—very useful in case of defence—and +a large opening for pieces of artillery. +The corner towers have two of these apertures, +one under the other.</p> + +<p>A kind of bastion or battlement has been +formed by piling up the earth removed from the +moat round the lower wall. The moat is forty +feet broad and thirty feet deep.</p> + +<p>A large road was made not long ago round +three sides of the city by Colonel Trench, then +our Consul there, so that the Amir could drive +to his garden, a quarter of a mile outside the +north city gate, the residence of the Amir's son, +the Sar-tip. On the west side of Sher-i-Nasrya +there is merely a sheep track.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-026.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-026_th.jpg" alt="The Main Street, Sher-i-Nasrya. (Showing centre of City.)" title="The Main Street, Sher-i-Nasrya. (Showing centre of City.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">The Main Street, Sher-i-Nasrya.</span> (Showing centre of City.)</p> + +<p>In the north-west corner of the city is a +higher wall enclosing a large space and forming +the citadel and Anderun, in which the Amir and +part of his family reside. There are three large +towers to each side of the quadrangle, the centre +tower to the south being of much larger proportions +than the others. A lower outer wall +surrounds the higher one, and in the large +tower is the entrance gate to the Governor's +citadel.</p> + +<p>The inside of the city of Sher-i-Nasrya is +neither beautiful nor interesting from a pictorial +point of view. There is a main street with some +mud buildings standing up, others tumbled down. +The full-page illustration shows the most attractive +and interesting point of the city, the +centre of the quadrangle where the two streets,<a name="Pg_2-145" id="Pg_2-145"></a> +one from south to north, the other from east to +west, intersect at right angles. A dome of mud +bricks has been erected over the street, and under +its shade a number of the Amir's soldiers were +generally to be seen with their rifles resting idle +against the wall.</p> + +<p>The type of Sistan residence can be seen in +the two hovels to the right of the observer in +this photograph. The two hoods on the highest +point of the dome are two typical ventilators. +To the left the large doorways are mere shops, +with a kind of narrow verandah on which the +purchasers squat when buying goods. The main +street is very narrow and has a small platform +almost all along its sides, on which the natives sit +smoking their kalians or conversing.</p> + +<p>I was really very much impressed, each time +that I visited the city in the Consul's company, +by the intense respect shown by these people to +our representative. There was not a single man +who did not rise and salaam when we rode +through the bazaar, while many also came forward +to seize the Consul's hand and pay him the +customary compliments. Major Benn modestly +put down this civility of the natives to the +popularity of his predecessor, Major Trench, and +the good manners which he had taught these +men; but Major Benn himself, with his most +affable manner, his unsophisticated ways, absolutely +devoid of nonsensical red-tape or false +pride, is to my mind also to be held responsible +for the reverence which he inspires among the +masses.<a name="Pg_2-146" id="Pg_2-146"></a></p> + +<p>To me personally, I must confess, it was a +very great pleasure indeed to see an English +gentleman held in such respect, and that solely +on account of his tact and <i>savoir faire</i>. It is not +a common sight.</p> + +<p>Of course, a certain amount of show has also +to be made to impress the natives, but "show" +alone, as some believe, will be of little good +unless there is something more attractive behind +it. Major Benn seemed to be everybody's +welcomed friend; everybody, whether rich or +poor, whether in smart clothes or rags, gleamed +with delight as they saw him come; and Major +Benn stopped his horse, now to say a kind word +to a merchant, then to shake hands with a +native friend, further on to talk to a little child +who had run to the door of his parents' mud hut +to say "salameleko" to the Consul.</p> + +<p>It is men with sound common sense, civil +manners, and human sympathy, of Benn's type, +that we want to represent England everywhere, +and these men, as I have ever maintained, can +do Great Britain more good in foreign countries +in a day than all the official red-tape in a year. +It is a mistake to believe that Persians or other +Asiatics are only impressed by gold braiding and +by a large retinue of servants. The natives have +a wonderful intuitive way of correctly gauging +people, as we civilised folk do not seem able to +do, and it is the man himself, and his doings, +that they judge and criticise, and not so much +the amount of gold braiding on a man's coat or +trousers, or the cut of a resplendent uniform.<a name="Pg_2-147" id="Pg_2-147"></a></p> + +<p>In the northern portion of the main street are +the few shops with English and Russian goods. +Most of the articles I saw in the couple of Indian +shops were of Indian or English importation—many +of the articles appeared to me of German +manufacture, like the usual cheap goods one +sees in the Indian bazaars.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the road was the rival +merchant who dealt in Russian goods, and he +seemed to be doing quite a brisk business. He +appeared to deal mostly in clothes. There is a +kind of moleskin Russian cloth called the <i>shikin +maghut</i>, of various shades, colours and qualities, +which commands a ready sale both in Khorassan +and Sistan, although its price is high and its +quality and dye not particularly good. With +a little enterprise Indian manufacturers could +certainly make a similar and better cloth and +easily undersell the Russian material.</p> + +<p>It is most satisfactory to find from Captain +Webb-Ware's statement that Indian trade by the +Nushki-Sistan route, which was absolutely nil in +the year 1895-96, and only amounted to some +64,000 rupees in 1896-97, made a sudden +jump to 589,929 rupees in the following twelve +months, 1897-98. It has since been steadily on +the increase, as can be seen by the following +figures:—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Indian trade via the Nushki-Sistan route"> +<tr><td align='left'>1898-99</td><td align='center'>Rupees</td><td align='right'>728,082</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>1899-1900</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>1,235,411</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>1900-01</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>1,534,452</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>These figures are the total amount of imports<a name="Pg_2-148" id="Pg_2-148"></a> +and exports by the Nushki route, beginning +from 1st of April each year. In 1900-01 +the imports were Rs. 748,021; the exports +Rs. 786,431.</p> + +<p>When the route comes to be better known +the returns will inevitably be greatly increased, +but of course only a railway—or a well-conducted +service of motor vans—can make this route a +really practical one for trade on a large scale. +The cost of transport at present is too great.</p> + +<p>A point which should be noted in connection +with the railway is that every year a great +number of horses are brought from Meshed to +India <i>via</i> Quetta for remount purposes. In +1900-01 the number of horses brought by +dealers to Quetta amounted to 408, and as the +Khorassan horses are most excellent, they were +promptly sold at very remunerative prices. The +average price for a capital horse in Persia is from +80 to 100 rupees (15 rupees to £1). I understand +that these horses when in Quetta are sold +by dealers to Government at an average of 300 +rupees each, leaving a very large profit indeed. +As horses are very plentiful in Khorassan, if +a railway existed the Government could remount +its cavalry at one-third of the present cost.</p> + +<p>Adjoining Sher-i-Nasrya to the south is the +partly ruined village of Husseinabad. It has a +wall, now collapsed, and a moat which forms an +obtuse angle with the east wall of Sher-i-Nasrya. +There are in this village some miserable little +mud houses still standing up and inhabited, and +the high-walled, gloomy mud building of the<a name="Pg_2-149" id="Pg_2-149"></a> +Russian Vice-Consulate which has lately been +erected, opposite to an extensive graveyard.</p> + +<p>The site and the outward appearance of the +Russian Vice-Consulate, which one can only +reach by jumping over various drain channels +or treading over graves, was decidedly not one's +ideal spot for a residence, but once inside the +dwelling, both house and host were really charming. +Mr. Miller, the Consul, was a very intelligent +and able man indeed, a most wonderful +linguist, and undoubtedly a very efficient officer +for his country. There is also in Husseinabad a +round tower where the Beluch Sirdar fought the +Amir some nine years ago, and one or two windmills +characteristic of Sistan and Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>These windmills are not worked by sails in a +vertical position like ours, but are indeed the +simplest and most ingenious contrivance of its +kind I have ever seen. The motive wheel, which +revolves in a horizontal position, is encased in +high walls on three sides, leaving a slit on the +north side, from whence the prevalent winds of +Sistan blow. The wind entering with great force +by this vertical slit—the walls being so cut as to +catch as much wind as possible—sets the wheel +in motion—a wheel which, although made +coarsely of reeds tied in six bundles fastened +together by means of cross-arms of wood, revolves +easily on a long iron pivot, and once set +in motion attains a high speed.</p> + +<p>The flour mill has two stories, the motive +wheel occupying the entire second floor, while +attached to its pivot on the ground floor is the<a name="Pg_2-150" id="Pg_2-150"></a> +actual grinding stone. The wheat to be ground +flows into a central aperture in this stone from a +suspended vessel, a simple system of strings and +ropes acting as an efficient brake on the axle of +the upper wheel to control its speed, and others +allowing the grain to fall uniformly and, when +necessary, preventing its flow.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-027.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-027_th.jpg" alt="The British Bazar (Husseinabad) Sistan." title="The British Bazar (Husseinabad) Sistan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The British Bazar (Husseinabad) Sistan.</p> + +<p>There sweeps over Sistan in the hot weather +what is called the <i>Bad-i-sud-o-bist-roz</i>, or wind of +the 120 days, which blows from the north-north-west, +and, although this may seem unpleasant to +the inhabitants, it has a most undoubtedly +salubrious effect upon the climate of the province, +which, owing to the great quantity of channels +and stagnant water, would otherwise be most unhealthy. +As it is the climate is now extremely +healthy. The water of the Halmund is delicious +to drink.</p> + +<p>The suburb of Husseinabad stretches for about +one mile towards the south, and contains among +other places of importance the buildings of the +Customs, with a caravanserai—very modest and +unsafe—a picture of which is here given. What +is called "Benn Bazaar," or the British Bazaar, is +also found at the south-east portion of Husseinabad +and facing the Consulate Hospital.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-151" id="Pg_2-151"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XVII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The British Bazaar—The pioneer traders of Sistan—Sistan +a half-way house and not the terminus of the route—Comfortable +route—Protection and redress—Indian tea in +Persia—Persian market overstocked—Enterprise of Indian +tea traders—Which are the markets worth cultivating—Articles +mostly wanted in Sistan and Meshed—Exports—A +problem to be faced—Ways of communication needed to +cities of central Persia.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> entire British bazaar—a modest one so +far—can be taken in at a glance. The snapshot +reproduced in the illustration gives a very good +idea of it. Besides this, one or two Indian +British merchants are established in the main +street of Sher-i-Nasrya, where, as we have seen, +they have opened nice shops.</p> + +<p>The pioneer merchants of Sistan were the firm +of Mahommed Ali Brothers, of Quetta, established +in 1900, and represented by a very intelligent +man called Seth Suliman.</p> + +<p>The firm has branches in Birjand and Meshed. +They have done good business both in Sistan, +Birjand and Meshed, and have been followed in +Sistan by Tek-Chand, of the wealthy firm of +Chaman Singh from Shikarpur—at one time +the trade-centre of Asia. This firm holds<a name="Pg_2-152" id="Pg_2-152"></a> +to-day the opium contract of the whole of the +Sind district, and is a most enterprising concern.</p> + +<p>Mahommed Azim Khan Brothers, of Lahore, +have also opened a shop in Sistan, and so has +Mahommed Hayab, agent for Shek Fars +Mahommed, the biggest British firm in Meshed. +It is probable that in the near future a number +of other Indian firms may be induced to open +branches in Sistan and Khorassan; but, if they are +to avoid disappointment, they should remember +that the Sistan market is merely a retail +one, and there is very little wholesale trade to be +transacted so far. In time to come no doubt a +wholesale trade will eventually be developed.</p> + +<p>A point which is seldom grasped, or at any +rate is frequently overlooked, is that Sistan +(Sher-i-Nasrya) is a mere half-way house +between Quetta and Meshed, and not, as is +supposed by many people, the terminus of the +route. Considerable loss and disappointment +have been sustained by some rash British traders, +who, notwithstanding the exceptional opportunities +given them to obtain accurate official +information, set out with large caravans, apparently +without the most rudimentary geographical +knowledge, as well as without sound +commercial foresight.</p> + +<p>Another mistake is frequent. Somehow or +other the idea seems to prevail among some +Indian traders that Persia, or Eastern Persia, +forms part of the Indian Empire, and they forget +that the protection and unusual facilities which +they enjoy from Quetta to Robat (the Beluch<a name="Pg_2-153" id="Pg_2-153"></a> +frontier) and, to a certain extent, as far as +Sistan, cannot possibly be given on Persian +territory beyond Sistan as far as Meshed.</p> + +<p>Although practically across a desert, the +journey from Quetta-Nushki to Sistan is—for +travelling of that kind—extremely comfortable +and easy; the real difficulty begins for traders +when they are perforce left to look after themselves +on Persian soil, where there are no more +clean rest-houses and where a Britisher—if travelling +as a trader—is no more thought of than if +he were an Asiatic trader. He is no longer +the salaamed "Sahib" of the Indian cities, but +becomes a mere <i>ferenghi</i>, a stranger, and is at the +mercy of everybody.</p> + +<p>Moreover, it should be well understood that +the protection and redress obtainable under +English law, cease on crossing the Persian +frontier. Very little, if any, redress is to be +obtained from Persian officials except at great +cost and infinite worry, waste of time and +patience.</p> + +<p>Indian tea traders have probably been the +greatest sufferers in consequence of their rash +ventures, and they will probably suffer even +more in the future if they do not exercise +greater caution in ascertaining beforehand the +suitable markets for their teas and the actual +cost of transport to the markets selected. Several +traders have brought very large caravans of +Indian tea to Sistan on various occasions, +believing that they had arrived at the end of +their journey, and, after having paid the heavy<a name="Pg_2-154" id="Pg_2-154"></a> +duty imposed upon goods introduced into the +country, have found before them the option of +going the 600 miles back to Quetta or continuing +at great expense, <i>via</i> Bam to Kerman, a long +journey with doubtful results at the end; or of +going to Birjand, Meshed, Teheran, where they +have eventually been compelled to sell at a loss +or to pay the additional Russian duty and send +the tea on to Moscow.</p> + +<p>The Persian market is at present very much +blocked up with Indian teas, and great caution +should be exercised by intending exporters from +India. In time to come, when good roads have +been made in every direction, or railways constructed, +and cost of transport greatly minimised, +Persia will be, I think, a considerable buyer +of Indian teas; but as matters are to-day the +expense of conveying the tea to the various +Persian markets, especially by the land route, is +too great to make any profit possible at the very +low prices paid by the Persians for tea.</p> + +<p>Tea exported overland to the Meshed market +(not to Sistan) realised, before the market became +overstocked, better prices than the sea-borne tea +<i>via</i> Bandar Abbas. It is certain that the delicate +aroma of tea is not improved by being exposed to +the warm sea air, no matter how carefully it has +been packed. And as Major Webb-Ware, the +political agent at Chagai, points out, tea despatched +by the land route direct from the +gardens or from Calcutta is not liable to the +numerous incidental charges, commissions and +transhipments which are a matter of course upon<a name="Pg_2-155" id="Pg_2-155"></a> +teas sent <i>via</i> Bandar Abbas or other Persian Gulf +ports.</p> + +<p>The demand for unspoiled teas brought overland +is considerable in Russia and all over +Europe, even more than in Persia, and when a +sensible understanding has been arrived at with +Russia to let Indian teas proceed in transit +through that country, there is no reason why the +better Indian teas should not favourably compete +all over Europe with the China caravan teas.</p> + +<p>The Persian market, to my mind, speaking +generally, will only be able to purchase the +inferior teas, the Persians as individuals being +comparatively poor. Superior teas in small +quantities, however, may find a sale at good +prices among the official classes and the few +richer folks, but not in sufficient quantities to +guarantee a large import. The same remarks, I +think, would apply to teas finding their way into +Western Afghanistan from various points on the +Sistan-Meshed route.</p> + +<p>The Indian tea-traders have shown very commendable +enterprise in attempting to push their +teas by the overland route, and trying to exploit +the new markets which the Nushki-Meshed +route has thrown open to them, but their beginning +has been made too suddenly and on too +large a scale, which I fear will cause a temporary +loss to some of them. A gradual, steady development +of the tea trade is wanted in Persia, +not a rush and violent competition flooding the +market with tea that has to be sold at a loss. +When the natives all over Persia have by degrees<a name="Pg_2-156" id="Pg_2-156"></a> +got accustomed to Indian tea, and when it is +brought in at a cheap price, Indian teas are likely +to be popular in Persia.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-028.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-028_th.jpg" alt="The Wall of Sher-i-Nasrya at Sunset." title="The Wall of Sher-i-Nasrya at Sunset." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Wall of Sher-i-Nasrya at Sunset.</p> + +<p>I may be wrong, but, to my mind, the greater +profits on Indian teas brought by this route will +in the future be made not in Persia itself, but +in Transcaspia, Turkestan, Russia and Central +Europe, where people can pay well for a good +article. Great credit should be given to the +Indian and Dehra Dun Tea Associations for +despatching representatives to study the requirements +of the Persian market on the spot; but, as +Captain Webb-Ware suggests in the <i>Gazette of +India</i>, the tea associations would do well to turn +their attention to the sale of Indian teas in Russia, +and to send some experimental consignments of +their teas to Moscow by the overland route. +The same remarks might also apply to a great +many other English or Indian manufactured +goods.</p> + +<p>We complain a great deal that the Russian +protective tariff is high, but it is mild when +compared with the murderous protectionism of +the United States or of our beloved friend +Germany. And, after all, does this protection +keep out our goods from those countries? By +no means. Russia's industries are indeed fast +developing, but they are far from sufficient to +supply her own wants. English, German, and +American goods find their way even to the most +remote spots of Siberia. It is, then, a problem +worth considering whether "free trade Persia," +with her English and Indian imports amounting<a name="Pg_2-157" id="Pg_2-157"></a> +to one million four hundred thousand pounds +sterling (£1,400,000), is a customer so well +worth cultivating as protectionist Russia, which +buys from us nearly twenty-two millions' +(£21,974,952) worth yearly.</p> + +<p>In regard to the Quetta-Meshed route, it would +strike a casual observer that from our geographical +situation we might, without much difficulty, kill +two birds with one stone by a happy combination—Persia +being dealt with <i>en passant</i>, as it were, +while aiming for quicker, sounder, and more +extensive markets further north.</p> + +<p>Persia is a good market for Indian indigo, +which has, so far, commanded a ready sale.</p> + +<p>In Sistan itself—which, it cannot be too emphatically +repeated, is to-day only a comparatively +poor and sparsely-populated district—the +articles which have, so far, found a quick retail +sale, have been Indian assorted spices, second-hand +apparel, sugar, tea, boots, cheap cotton cloths, +matches, kerosene oil, thread, needles, cheap +cutlery, scissors, small looking glasses.</p> + +<p>The Amir and the Sardars have at different +times made purchases of boots, shoes, saddlery, +silk, woollen and cotton cloths, rugs, shawls, +crockery, and enamel ware, watches, chains, and +knives, and have also bought a considerable +number of English-made fancy goods, furniture, +stationery, cigarettes, cigars and tobacco, +&c. The humbler Sistanis purchase very freely +from the Indian British shops, but cannot afford +to pay very high prices; but the high officials +pay cash and give a good price for all they buy.<a name="Pg_2-158" id="Pg_2-158"></a></p> + +<p>Speaking generally, the articles which are +mostly wanted at present are those mentioned in +the official report. For these commodities there +is a steady demand in the markets of Sistan and +Khorassan, but the supply, it should be remembered, +should be in proportion to the size of the +population. Sistan, Birjand, Meshed, are not +London nor Paris nor Berlin.</p> + +<p>The articles wanted are:—</p> + + +<ul><li>Woollen stuffs, flannels, muslins, mulls, sheetings, chintzes, cottons, &c.</li> +<li>Velvets, satins, silks, brocades.</li> +<li>Indigo of medium and good quality. (Oudh indigo is principally in demand in Bushire.)</li> +<li>Iron, brass and copper sheets.</li> +<li>Sulphur matches.</li> +<li>Spices, including cinnamon, cardamums, cloves, pepper, turmeric, &c.</li> +<li>Rice (for Sistan).</li> +<li>Tea, black for Persia, and green for Afghanistan and Transcaspia.</li> +<li>Coffee (in berry).</li> +<li>Refined sugar, loaf.</li> +<li>Ginger preserve (in jars).</li> +<li>Sal-ammoniac.</li> +<li>Baizes (specially of high class), Khinkhabs and gold cloth.</li> +<li>Cotton turbans (lungis) of all qualities, including those with pure gold fringes.</li> +<li>Leather goods.</li> +<li>Boots (Cawnpore and English).<a name="Pg_2-159" id="Pg_2-159"></a></li> +<li>Saddlery (Cawnpore, as the English is too expensive).</li> +<li>Glass-ware.</li> +<li>Enamel-ware.</li> +<li>Cutlery.</li> +<li>Ironmongery of every description. Cheap padlocks find a ready sale.</li> +<li>Watches (cheap).</li> +<li>Jewellery.</li> +<li>Kalai (for tinning copper vessels).</li> +</ul> + +<p>Fire-arms would command a very ready sale, +but their importation is strictly forbidden.</p> + +<p>The articles of export from Khorassan and +Sistan are wool, ghi, saffron, dried fruit of +various kinds, hides, jujubes, assafoetida, pistachio-nuts, +barak, kurak, gum, valuable carpets, +and some turquoises.</p> + +<p>In Sistan itself wheat and oats are plentiful, +but their export to foreign countries is not +permitted. Opium finds its way out of the +country <i>via</i> Bandar Abbas, and wool, ghi, +feathers, carpets, and assafoetida are conveyed +principally to Kerman, Birjand, Meshed, Yezd, +the Gulf, and Quetta.</p> + +<p>One of the principal problems of the new +land route to India is not only how to induce +British traders to go to Persia, but how to solve +the more difficult point of persuading the big +Persian traders to cross the bridge and venture +into India. They seem at present too indolent +and suspicious to undertake such a long journey, +and would rather pay for luxuries to be brought +to their doors than go and get them themselves.</p> + +<p>With the assistance, both moral and financial, +of the enterprising Major Sykes, a large caravan<a name="Pg_2-160" id="Pg_2-160"></a> +was sent from Kerman to Quetta with Persian +goods, and paid satisfactorily, but others that +followed seem to have had a good many +disasters on the road (on Persian territory) and +fared less well. Major Sykes's effort was most +praiseworthy, for indeed, as regards purely +Persian trade, I think Kerman or Yezd must +in future be the aiming points of British +caravans rather than Meshed. These places +have comparatively large populations and the +field of operations is practically unoccupied, +whereas in Meshed Russian competition is very +strong.</p> + +<p>With the present ways of communication +across the Salt Desert, it is most difficult and +costly to attempt remunerative commercial communication +with these towns. Small caravans +could not possibly pay expenses, and large +caravans might fare badly owing to lack of +water, while the circuitous road <i>via</i> Bam is too +expensive.</p> + +<p>When more direct tracks, with wells at each +stage, after the style of the Nushki-Sistan route, +have been constructed between Robat and +Kerman, and also between Sher-i-Nasrya and +Kerman, and Sher-i-Nasrya and Yezd, matters +will be immensely facilitated.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-161" id="Pg_2-161"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XVIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sistan's state of transition—British Consul's tact—Advancing +Russian influence—Safety—A fight between Sistanis and +Afghans—The Sar-tip—Major Benn's pluck and personal +influence—Five Afghans seriously wounded—The city +gates closed—The Customs caravanserai—A British +caravanserai needed—Misstatements—Customs officials—Fair +and just treatment to all—Versatile Major Benn—A +much needed assistant—More Consulates wanted—Excellent +British officials—Telegraph line necessary—A much-talked-of +railway—The salutary effect of a garrison at Robat +frontier post.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Sistan</span> is in a state of rapid transition, and it +is doubtful whether the position of the three or +four Europeans on duty there is one of perfect +safety. The natives are so far undoubtedly and +absolutely favourable to British influence in preference +to Russian, a state of affairs mainly due +to the personal tact of Majors Trench and Benn +rather than to instructions from home, but great +caution should be exercised in the future if this +prestige, now at its highest point, is to be maintained.</p> + +<p>The Russians are advancing very fast, and their +influence is already beginning to be felt in no +slight degree. The Sistanis may or may not be +relied upon. They are not perfectly Europeanised +like peoples of certain parts of Western<a name="Pg_2-162" id="Pg_2-162"></a> +Persia, nor are they quite so amenable to reason +as could be wished. They can easily be led, or +misled, and bribed, and are by no means easy +folks to deal with. For a few tomans one can +have people assassinated, the Afghan frontier so +close at hand being a guarantee of impunity for +murderers, and fights between the townspeople +and the Afghans or Beluch, in which many people +are injured and killed, are not uncommon.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-029.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-029_th.jpg" alt="The Sar-tip." title="The Sar-tip." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Sar-tip.</p> + +<p>One of these fights, between Sistanis and +Afghans (under British protection), took place +when I was in Sistan, and I think it is only +right that it should be related, as it proves very +forcibly that, as I have continually urged in this +book, calm and tact, gentleness and fairness, have +a greater and more lasting control over Persians +than outward pomp and red-tape.</p> + +<p>The Consul and I, after calling on the Amir, +proceeded to visit the Sar-tip, the Amir's first +son by his legal wife. The Sar-tip is the head +of a force of cavalry, and inhabits a country +house, the Chahar Bagh, in a garden to the north +outside the city. He is a bright and intelligent +youth, who had travelled with Dr. Golam Jelami +to India—from which country he had recently +returned, and where he had gone to consult +specialists about his sadly-failing eyesight.</p> + +<p>The Sar-tip, of whom a portrait is here given, +received us most kindly and detained us till dark. +Being Ramzam-time we then bade him good-bye, +and were riding home when, as we neared +the Consulate gate, a man who seemed much +excited rushed to the Consul and handed him<a name="Pg_2-163" id="Pg_2-163"></a> +a note from the Belgian Customs officer. As I +was still convalescent—this was my first outing—and +not allowed out after dusk, Major Benn +asked me to go back to the Consulate as he was +called to the Customs caravanserai on business. +I suspected nothing until a messenger came to +the Consulate with news. A crowd of some 300 +Sistanis had attacked some fifteen Afghan camel +men, who had come over with a caravan of tea +from Quetta. These camel drivers had been +paid several thousand rupees for their services on +being dismissed, and some money quarrel had +arisen.</p> + +<p>On the arrival of the Consul the fight was in +full swing, and he found a crowd of howling +Sistanis throwing stones and bricks at the +Afghans. At Major Benn's appearance, notwithstanding +that their blood was up and their +temper, one would think, beyond control, the +Sistanis immediately opened a way for him, some +even temporarily stopping fighting to make a +courteous salaam. This will show in what respect +our Consul is held.</p> + +<p>The Afghans, having by this time realised +that they had been insulted, and having, +furthermore, discovered the loss of some money—which +they only detected when they went +for their rifles and swords, which they kept +together in a safe place with their treasure—formed +up in line and, with drawn swords, made +a rush on the Sistanis.</p> + +<p>Major Benn with considerable pluck dashed +between the fighting men, seizing with his left<a name="Pg_2-164" id="Pg_2-164"></a> +hand the rifle of the leader—who had knelt down +and was on the point of firing—and with his +right hand got hold of the blade—fortunately +blunt—of another Afghan's sword, who was +slashing away at the Sistanis near him. The +force of the blow caused quite a wound in the +gallant Major's hand, but suddenly, as by magic +owing to the respect he commanded on both +sides, his action put a stop to the fight.</p> + +<p>Seizing this opportunity he talked to them +calmly in his usual quiet, jocular manner, and +told the Afghans how, by behaving in this +fashion, while under his protection, they were +doing him harm in the eyes of the Persians in +whose country they were guests, and that if they +had any claim they must apply to him and not +take the law into their own hands. With his +keen sense of humour he even succeeded with +some joke or other in raising a laugh from both +belligerent parties, and requested them to sit +down and give up their arms into his custody, +which they willingly did.</p> + +<p>The Afghans seated themselves at the further +end of the caravanserai, while the Sistanis, whom +he next addressed in the kindest way, were +persuaded to desist from using further violence. +He managed to turn the whole thing into a joke, +and eventually the Sistanis dispersed laughing +and retired within the wall of their city; but, +indeed, there were five Afghans left on the +ground severely wounded,—one with a fractured +skull being carried to the Consulate Hospital in +a dying condition.<a name="Pg_2-165" id="Pg_2-165"></a></p> + +<p>The Afghans possessed some excellent Russian +rifles, a great many of which find their way into +Afghanistan from the north.</p> + +<p>The Consul, when the row was over, proceeded +to the Amir, who had the gates of the city +instantly closed and promised the Consul that +they should not be opened again until the Consul +could go the next day to identify the ringleaders +of the attacking Sistanis. The Amir received +the Consul with more than usually marked +respect, and showed himself greatly disturbed at +the <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'occurence'">occurrence</ins>. He took personal charge of the +keys of the city and undertook to mete out severe +punishment upon the offenders.</p> + +<p>The city gates, which are daily opened at +sunrise, remained closed the greater portion of +the day at the Consul's request, but for a consideration +the doorkeepers let out occasional citizens,—in +all probability those very ones that should +have been kept in.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, being Ramzam-time, when +Mussulmans sit up feasting the greater part of +the night, as they are compelled to fast when the +sun is above the horizon, his Excellency the +Amir was unable to attend to even this important +matter, which was left to slide from day to day. +The Consul, however, although extremely patient, +was the last man to let things go to the wall, +and no doubt in the end the leaders were duly +punished and compensation paid.</p> + +<p>The illustration shows the Customs caravanserai, +in front of which the fight took place. +Two of the domed rooms shown in the picture<a name="Pg_2-166" id="Pg_2-166"></a> +are occupied by Mr. Miletor, the Belgian +Customs officer, in Persian employ. The others +are occupied by camel-men or native travellers, +there being no other caravanserai of the kind in +Sher-i-Nasrya.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-030.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-030_th.jpg" alt="The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan. (Belgian Customs Officer in foreground.)" title="The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan. (Belgian Customs Officer in foreground.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">The Customs Caravanserai, Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan.</span> (Belgian Customs Officer in foreground.)</p> + +<p>It would be a very great addition to the British +Consulate, now that so many Beluch and Afghans, +all under British protection, travel through Sistan, +if a British caravanserai could be built in which +they, their goods and their camels, might enjoy +comparative safety. The expense of putting it +up would be very small, and it would avoid the +constant friction which is bound to exist at +present in a country where honesty is not the +chief forte of the lower people, and where +quarrels are ever rampant. Even during the +short stay of Messrs. Clemenson and Marsh's +caravan, several articles were stolen under their +very eyes in the Consulate shelter, and at the +time of my visit caravans, British or otherwise, +were absolutely at the mercy of the natives. +The goods were left out in the open in front of +the caravanserai, and the Customs people had not +sufficient men to protect them from interference +at the hands of the lower people.</p> + +<p>I have seen it stated by correspondents in +leading London papers that "Russian" Customs +officials were stationed in Sistan, and interfered +greatly with British caravans. That is mere +fiction from beginning to end. As I have +already stated, there is not a single Russian in +the Customs anywhere in Persia. In Sistan the +only official—a Belgian—far from interfering<a name="Pg_2-167" id="Pg_2-167"></a> +with the caravans, is of great help to them and +does all in his power within the limits of his +duty to be of assistance to them. The Consul +himself was full of praise of the extreme fairness +and justice to all alike of the Belgian official. +There never was the slightest trouble or hitch so +long as traders were prepared to comply with +Persian laws, and so long as people paid the +duty on the goods entering the country no bother +of any kind was given to anybody, either +British or others.</p> + +<p>On April 3rd, 1901, the Persian Government +introduced a law abolishing all inland Customs +Houses and transit dues, and substituting instead +a <i>rahdari</i> tax of 6 annas per 240 pounds. This +tax is payable on crossing the frontier, and is +levied in addition to the 5 per cent. <i>ad valorem</i> +duty to which the Persian Government is entitled +under the existing International Customs Convention. +The rate of duty levied (5 per cent.), +is calculated on the actual value of goods, plus +the cost of transport.</p> + +<p>The Sistan Consul, as well as the officials +of the Nushki Sistan route in Beluchistan, go to +an <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'inmmense'">immense</ins> deal of trouble to be of use to +British traders and travellers, and everything is +made as easy for them as is compatible with the +nature of the country and existing laws.</p> + +<p>A great deal of extra heavy work was thrown +upon the shoulders of Major Benn, who acted in +no less than three official capacities—Consul, +Postmaster, and Banker—as well as, unofficially, +as architect, house-builder, and general reference<a name="Pg_2-168" id="Pg_2-168"></a> +officer. It is very satisfactory to learn that this +autumn (1902) an assistant is to be sent out to +him from India, for the work seemed indeed too +heavy for one man. Day and night's incessant +work would in time have certainly told on even +the cheerful disposition and abnormally wiry +constitution of Major Benn, who, besides being +a most loyal and careful official, takes a great +deal of personal pride in fighting hard to win the +severe race which will result in our eventually +acquiring or losing Sistan and Eastern Persia +commercially. Major Benn is most decidedly +very far ahead in the race at present, and owing +to him British prestige happens to be at its +zenith, but greater support will be needed in +the future if this advantageous race is to be +continued up to the winning post.</p> + +<p>Were a Vice-Consulate established at Birjand, +as I have said before, the Sistan Consular work +would be relieved of much unnecessary strain, +the distance from Birjand to Sistan being too great +under present conditions to allow the Consul to +visit the place even yearly. The medical British +Agent whom we have there at present is excellent, +but the powers at his disposal are small, and a +Consulate with an English officer in charge would +most decidedly enhance British prestige in that +important city, as well as being a useful connecting +link between Sistan and Meshed, a distance of +close upon 500 miles.</p> + +<p>It was a most excellent step to select for the +Consular work in Eastern and Southern Persia +men from the Military Political Service, instead<a name="Pg_2-169" id="Pg_2-169"></a> +of the usual Foreign Office men, who are +probably better adapted for countries already +developed. The Political Service is a most +perfect body of gentlemanly, sensible, active-minded, +well-educated men of versatile talents, +the pick of the healthiest and cleverest Englishmen +in our Indian Service. They cannot help +doing good wherever they are sent. Captain +Trench, Major Benn, Major Phillott, Captain +White, have all answered perfectly, and have +all done and are doing excellent work.</p> + +<p>What is most needed at present in Sistan is a +telegraph line to Nushki. Should everybody in +the Sistan Consulate be murdered, it would be +the best part of a fortnight or three weeks +before the news could reach India at the +present rate of post going. If assistance were +needed it could not reach Sistan from Quetta in +less than a couple of months, by which time, I +think, it would be of little use to those in danger. +And the danger, mind you, does exist. It seems +rather hard that we should leave men who work, +and work hard and well, for their country absolutely +at the mercy of destiny.</p> + +<p>The next most important point would be to +join Sistan, or at least Robat, on the Perso-Beluch +frontier, with the long-talked-of railway to +Quetta, but of this we shall have occasion to +speak later. So far the line has been sanctioned +to Nushki, but that point, it must be remembered, +is still 500 miles distant from Sistan, a considerable +distance across, what is for practical purposes, +desert country.<a name="Pg_2-170" id="Pg_2-170"></a></p> + +<p>The third point—the easiest of all, which +would involve little expense, but would have a +most salutary effect—would be to maintain a +small garrison at the Perso-Beluch-Afghan frontier +post of Robat. This, to my mind, would at the +present moment strengthen the hands of our +officials in Persia to a most extraordinary +extent.</p> + +<p>Something tangible, which the natives themselves +could see and talk about, together with the +knowledge that a smart body of soldiers could +soon be on the spot if required, would not only +assure the so far doubtful safety of the few but +precious English lives in those parts, but would +add enormously to our prestige and make us not +only revered but feared.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-171" id="Pg_2-171"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XIX" id="V2-CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The history of the Sistan Vice-Consulate—Major Chevenix +Trench—Laying the foundation of the Consulate—Hoisting +the British flag—Major Benn—A terrible journey—A +plucky Englishwoman—The mud Consulate—Its evolution—The +new buildings—Ka-khanas—Gardening under +difficulties—How horses are kept—The enclosing wall—The +legend of Trenchabad city—The Consulate Mosque—Dr. +Golam Jelami—The hospital—Successful operations—Prevalent +complaints of Sistan—The Sistan Sore.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> history of the Sistan Vice-Consulate does +not go back very far, but is, nevertheless, very +interesting. We will recapitulate it in a few +words.</p> + +<p>Major Brazier-Creagh was sent to Sistan on +a special mission; as has already been said, and +Captain F. C. Webb-Ware, C. I. E., Political +Assistant at Chagai, visited the place every year +at the end of his annual trip along the new +route in North Beluchistan from Quetta to +Robat, the most Eastern station of the route +prior to entering Persian territory. Major +Sykes visited Sistan in 1896 in connection with +the Perso-Beluch Boundary Commission and +again in 1899, when he travelled here from +Kerman by the easier southern route <i>via</i> Bam.<a name="Pg_2-172" id="Pg_2-172"></a></p> + +<p>It was on February 15th, 1900, that a Russian +Vice-Consul for that important Province was +appointed to Sistan to take the place of a Persian +who was a news-writer in Russian employ. +Major G. Chevenix Trench was then specially +selected by the Viceroy of India as a suitable +person to look after British interests in that +region—and indeed no better man could have +been chosen.</p> + +<p>Having given up his appointment in India this +officer left Quetta on March 7th, 1900, and +arrived at Sher-i-Nasrya on the 18th of April, +accompanied by Major R. E. Benn, who was +on a year's furlough, and can be said, I believe, +to be the first European who has travelled all +the way from India to England by this overland +route, <i>via</i> Meshed-Transcaspia.</p> + +<p>Major Trench, prior to leaving for Meshed +to take up his appointment of Consul-General +for Khorassan, being unable to stand the fierce +heat of the sun, laid the foundation stone—it +was a "sun-dried mud brick," to be accurate—of +the present temporary buildings of the +Consulate. A domed mud hut <i>à la Persane</i> +was built, with an additional spacious window, +but no framework and no glass.</p> + +<p>The great difficulty of hoisting the British +flag, which seems to have been strongly objected +to during the Perso-Afghan Commission when +Sir Frederic Goldsmid passed through Sistan +in 1872, was overcome mainly owing to the +great tact shown by Major Trench. The +Union Jack flew daily, gaily and undisturbed,<a name="Pg_2-173" id="Pg_2-173"></a> +over the mud hovel which will probably be +during the next few years one of the most +important consular posts we possess in Asia.</p> + +<p>Major Benn, who had hastily proceeded to +London on a long expected holiday, was immediately +recalled to replace Major Trench. +Major Benn, accompanied by his plucky and +devoted wife and child, journeyed a second time +across the Beluchistan desert to reach his post.</p> + +<p>The journey was terrible, owing to torrential +rains and snowstorms. When already several +marches out they were compelled to return to +Quetta as their child had become very ill. But +they were despatched again on their duty. +They encountered severe storms; the country +was practically flooded; some of their camels +died, and for days at a time they were in the +desert unable to move, the country being in +many places inundated. In a blizzard two of +their men lost themselves and died from exposure, +but the party advanced slowly but +surely, the plucky little English lady standing +all the hardships without a murmur.</p> + +<p>Major Benn having been ordered to make a +detour, they went down into the Sarhad, south +of the Kuh-i-Malek-Siah, and it was not till +February 15th, 1901, that they eventually +reached Sher-i-Nasrya, and were received by +Trench in his mud-hut Consulate, he having +moved into a tent. Major Trench, on the +arrival of Major Benn, proceeded to Meshed.</p> + +<p>During Major Benn's time the Consulate +buildings went through a marvellous evolution.<a name="Pg_2-174" id="Pg_2-174"></a> +It may be recollected that I reached Sistan in +December, 1901, or only ten months after his +arrival, but there were already several additional +mud-rooms built and connected so as to form a +suite of a spacious office, sitting-room, dining-room, +two bedrooms and a storeroom. There +were doors, made locally by imported Indian +carpenters, but no glass to the windows,—muslin +nailed to the wall answering the purpose of +blinds. Famished dogs, attracted by the odour +of dinner, would occasionally jump through this +flimsy protection, much to the despair of Mrs. +Benn—but those were only small troubles. +Thieves found their way into the rooms, and +even succeeded in stealing Mrs. Benn's jewellery. +There was no protection whatever against an +attack in force, and the natives were at first most +impudent in their curiosity.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-031.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-031_th.jpg" alt="The Sistan Consulate on Christmas Day, 1901." title="The Sistan Consulate on Christmas Day, 1901." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Sistan Consulate on Christmas Day, 1901.</p> + +<p>Being a Mussulman country, things were at +first very uncomfortable for Mrs. Benn until the +natives got accustomed to the sight of an English +lady, she being the first they had ever seen, or +who had ever travelled so far.</p> + +<p>The temporary mud-rooms were gradually +furnished and decorated with so much taste that +they became simply charming, but a new Consulate +is now being built, which, by comparison +in size and style, seems quite palatial. It is +being constructed of real baked bricks, Major +Benn having put up a serviceable kiln for the +purpose, and the handsome structure is so +sensibly built after a design by the versatile +Consul, that when finished it will fully combine<a name="Pg_2-175" id="Pg_2-175"></a> +English comfort with the exigencies of the +climate, the incessant northerly winds of the +summer months—from June to the end of +August—rendering life unbearable unless suitable +arrangements to mitigate their effects are +provided.</p> + +<p>Into the northern wall <i>ka khanas</i> or "camel +thorn compartments" are being built some four +feet deep, filled with camel thorn. To make +them effective two coolies are employed all day +long to swish buckets of water on to them. The +wind forcing its way through causes rapid +evaporation and consequent cooling of the air +in the rooms. When the wind stops the heat is, +however, unbearable. The rooms are also provided +with <i>badjirs</i>, or wind-catchers, on the +domed roof, but these can only be used before +the heat becomes too great.</p> + +<p>An attempt had been made to start a garden, +both for vegetables and flowers, but the hot +winds burnt up everything. Only four cabbages +out of hundreds that were planted had survived, +and these were carefully nursed by Mrs. Benn +for our Christmas dinner. Unluckily, on Christmas +Eve a cow entered the enclosure and made +a meal of the lot!</p> + +<p>Another garden is being started, but great +difficulty is experienced in making anything +grow owing to the quantity of salt in the ground +and the terrific winds. Poplars have come up +fairly well under shelter of a wall, but no tree +can hope to stand upright when it attains a +height where the wind can reach it. In fact,<a name="Pg_2-176" id="Pg_2-176"></a> +what few trees one sees about near Sher-i-Nasrya +are stooping southward in a pitiful manner.</p> + +<p>The Consul's horses and those of the escort +are kept out in the open. They are tethered +and left well wrapped up, wearing nearly +double the amount of covering to protect them +from the heat during the hot summer months +that they do in winter, on the principle explained +in previous chapters. It is not possible +to keep them in stables, owing to the +terrible white fly, which has a poisonous sting. +When out in the open the flies and mosquitoes +are blown away by the wind.</p> + +<p>It was satisfactory to find that, although the +Government did not see its way to furnish the +Consulate with a wall for the protection of the +Consul and his wife, whose personal property +was constantly being stolen, an allowance was at +once granted with instructions to build at once +a high wall all round the Consulate when one +of the Government horses was stolen!</p> + +<p>This wall, a wonderful bit of work, was put +up in a fortnight, while I was in bed with fever, +and on my getting up from bed I had the +surprise of finding the Consulate, which, when +I had arrived, stood—a few lonely buildings—in +the middle of a sandy plain, now surrounded by +a handsome mud wall with a most elaborate +castellated, fortress-like gate of Major Benn's +own design. The wall encloses a good many +acres of land; it would be rash to say how +many! This has given rise among the natives +to the report that a new city is rising near<a name="Pg_2-177" id="Pg_2-177"></a> +Sher-i-Nasrya, called Trenchabad, or Trench's +city.</p> + +<p>Major Benn is to be complimented on the +wonderful work he succeeds in getting done +with comparatively little expenditure for the +Government, and there is no doubt that he +manages to impress the natives and to keep +England's prestige high. He imported from +Quetta a flagstaff, in pieces, which when erected +measured no less than 45 feet, and on this, the +highest flagstaff in Persia, flies from sunrise to +sunset the Union Jack. Except on grand occasions +only a small flag can be used in summer, +owing to the fierce winds which tear the larger +flags to pieces the moment they are put up.</p> + +<p>Major Benn scored heavily in the esteem of +Sistanis when he had the bright idea of erecting +a handsome little mosque within the Consulate +boundary, wherein any traveller, whether Persian +or Beluch or Afghan or any other Mussulman, +can find shelter and a meal at the private expense +of the Consul. People devoid of a house, too, +or beggars when in real need are always helped.</p> + +<p>The erection of this mosque has greatly impressed +the Persians with the respect of England +for the Mahommedan religion. On the religious +festival day of the "sheep eat" the place is +crowded with Beluch and Persians alike, the +Mahommedan members of the British Consulate +having raised a fund to feed all worshippers at +the mosque during the day.</p> + +<p>Major Benn, who has really the energy of +half-a-dozen men taken together, has organised<a name="Pg_2-178" id="Pg_2-178"></a> +some weekly gymkhanas, with the double object +of giving his Indian escort of fourteen men of +the 7th Bombay Lancers and a Duffadar (non-commissioned +native officer) a little recreation, +and of providing some amusement to the town +folks; exhibitions of horsemanship, tent-pegging +and sword exercises are given, in which some +of the Persian gentlemen occasionally also take +part.</p> + +<p>The Sistanis of all classes turn out in great +force to witness these displays, and—for a +Persian crowd—I was really amazed at their +extraordinarily quiet and respectful demeanour. +Each man who entered the grounds courteously +salaamed the Consul before sitting down, and +there was unstinted clapping of hands—a way +of applauding which they have learnt from +Benn—and great enthusiasm as the Lancers displayed +their skill at the various feats.</p> + +<p>The phonograph was also invariably brought +out on these occasions, and set working near the +flagstaff, much to the delight and astonishment +of the Sistanis, who, I believe, are still at a loss +to discover where the voices they hear come +from. To study the puzzled expressions on the +awe-stricken faces of the natives, as they intently +listened to the music, was intensely amusing, +especially when the machine called out such +words as "mamma," which they understood, or +when it reproduced the whistling of a nightingale, +which sent them raving with delight.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the most touching part of these +performances was when loyal Major Benn<a name="Pg_2-179" id="Pg_2-179"></a> +wound up with "God save the King," scraped +on the record by a tired and blunted needle—phonograph +needles are scarce in Sistan and +could not be renewed for the sake of only one +and last tune—and we Britishers removed our +hats. Now, to the natives of Persia removing +one's hat seems as ludicrous a thing as can be +done, just as their equivalent discarding of shoes +seems very ridiculous to us; but the natives, to +whom the meaning we attach to our National +Anthem had been explained, behaved with the +utmost reverence notwithstanding the trying circumstances, +and many actually placed their right +hands to their foreheads in sign of salaam until +the anthem was over.</p> + +<p>Another department in the Consulate of great +interest is the spacious hospital containing a well-supplied +dispensary, where an average of forty +daily patients are treated gratis by Dr. Golam +Jelami and a compounder.</p> + +<p>Patients came on in their turn with various +complaints, and they were disposed of with due +speed, undergoing the necessary treatment with +various degrees of grace.</p> + +<p>The hospital contains besides the dispensary, +an in-patients' and an accident ward, office, +operating room and doctor's quarters, the whole +place being kept beautifully clean by Indian +attendants—Dr. Golam Jelami taking great pride +in his work and in the success and efficacy of the +establishment.</p> + +<p>Being himself a Mussulman Dr. Golam Jelami +has a great advantage over a Christian doctor in<a name="Pg_2-180" id="Pg_2-180"></a> +attending the natives, and, in fact, he has become +the medical adviser to the Amir and his entire +family, and a favourite with all the <i>Darbaris</i> or +people at the Amir's court owing to his extreme +tact, skill and charm of manner.</p> + +<p>He has performed some quite extraordinary +operations. One day when the Consul and Mrs. +Benn were about to sit down to lunch, a huge +tumour, which had just been excised from the +back of a man's neck, was sent round on a tray +for the Consul's inspection; and lenses of the +eye from successful cataract operations are +frequently sent in for the Consul's approval.</p> + +<p>The climate of Sistan is very healthy generally, +and the Halmund water delicious—by some it is +said to be an actual tonic—but the hot winds of +the summer and the salt sand cause severe injury to +the eyes. Cataract is a most common complaint, +even in comparatively young persons. Also +ophthalmia in its two forms. Confusion of vision +is frequent even among children, and myopia, +but not so common as the opacity of the cornea.</p> + +<p>The most common complaint is the "Sistan +Sore," which affects people on the face or any +other part of the body. It is known by the local +name of <i>Dana-i-daghi</i>. It begins with irregularly-shaped +pustules—very seldom circular—that +come to suppuration and burst, and if not +checked in time last for several months, extending +on the skin surface, above which they hardly +rise.</p> + +<p>The digestion of Sistanis, although naturally +good, is interfered with by the abuse of bad food,<a name="Pg_2-181" id="Pg_2-181"></a> +such as <i>krut</i>, or dried curd—most rancid, +indigestible stuff.</p> + +<p>Venereal complaints are also most common, +the most terrible form of all, curiously enough, +being treated even by Persian doctors with +mercury—a treatment called the <i>Kalyan Shingrif</i>—but +administered in such quantities that its +effects are often worse than the ailment +itself.</p> + +<p>Partly owing to this complaint and stomach +troubles and the chewing of tobacco, the teeth +are usually bad, black and decayed even in young +people, nor have the Sistanis themselves any way +of saving the teeth.</p> + +<p>Siphylitic tonsilitis is almost the only throat +complaint noticeable in Sistan, but inflammation +of the palate is not rare. Heart disease is practically +unknown in Sistan, and there are but very +few lung affections.</p> + +<p>The bones of the skeleton are extremely hard +and possess abnormal elasticity of texture, and +are, therefore, not easily fractured.</p> + +<p>There are several kinds of hair diseases caused +by climatic conditions and dirt, as well as +cutaneous affections of the scalp.</p> + +<p>The nails both of fingers and toes are healthy, +not brittle, with well-marked fibre showing +through their smooth surface, and of good +shape.</p> + +<p>The tape worm, so common in many other +parts of Persia, is absolutely unknown in Sistan, +and this is probably due to the excellent water +obtainable.<a name="Pg_2-182" id="Pg_2-182"></a></p> + +<p>Lunacy is also scarcely ever met with in Sistan +in any violent form, but cases of hypochondria +are not unusual, produced principally by indigestion—at +least, judging by the symptoms +shown.</p> + +<p>The women are much healthier than the men, +as they lead a more rational life, but neither +possess the power of producing large families. +One or two is the average number of children +in healthy families. Twins and triplets are +unknown in Sistan, or so I was assured.</p> + +<p>The mode of life of Sistan men of the better +classes is not conducive to large families, the +men not returning to their wives till midnight +or later, having spent the greater part of the day +in orgies with their friends, when, what with +opium smoking and what with being stuffed +with food and saturated with gallons of tea, they +are dead tired.</p> + +<p>Abortion seldom occurs naturally, and is never +artificially procured, owing to the local laws. +Women do not experience any difficulty during +labour and operations are unheard of.</p> + +<p>The umbilicus of children, here, too, as in +Western Persia, is tied at birth in two or three +places with a common string, and the remainder +cut with a pair of scissors or a knife. A mid-wife, +called <i>daya</i>, is requested to perform this +operation. Abnormalities of any kind are +extremely uncommon.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-183" id="Pg_2-183"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XX" id="V2-CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Laid up with fever—Christmas Day—A visit to the Amir—Hashmat-ul-Mulk—An +ancient city over eighty miles long—Extreme +civility of Persian officials—An unusual +compliment—Prisoners—Personal revenge—"An eye for +an eye, a tooth for a tooth"—Punishments and crime—Fines—Bastinado—Disfigurement—Imprisonment—Blowing +criminals from a gun—Strangling and decapitation.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was my intention to remain in Sistan only four +or five days, but unluckily my fever got so +bad—temperature above 104°—that, notwithstanding +my desire to continue the journey, +Major Benn most kindly would not allow me. I +was placed in bed where, covered up with +every available blanket, I remained close upon +three weeks. The tender care of Major and +Mrs. Benn, to whom my gratitude cannot be +expressed in words, the skilful treatment of +Dr. Golam Jelami, the Consulate doctor,—not to +speak of the unstinted doses of quinine, phenacetin, +castor-oil, and other such delightful fare, +to which may also be added some gallons of the +really delicious water of the Halmund river,—at +last told upon me and eventually, after twenty-one +days of sweating I began to pull up again +and was able to get up.<a name="Pg_2-184" id="Pg_2-184"></a></p> + +<p>The fever was shaken off altogether, but +strange to say, whether it was that I was +unaccustomed to medicine, or whether it was +due to the counter-effects of the violent fever, +my temperature suddenly went down and remained +for several months varying from two to +three degrees below normal. Medical men tell +me that this should mean physical collapse, but +on this point I can only say that I have never in +my life felt stronger nor better.</p> + +<p>I was just out of bed on Christmas Day, when +the Consulate was decorated with flags, and +Major Benn in his uniform had his escort of +Bombay Lancers on parade. There was an +official Christmas dinner in good old English +style, with a fine plum pudding and real sixpences +in it, followed by fire-crackers; while +illuminations were burning bright on the +Consulate wall and roofs. Official visitors were +received, the doctor of the Russian Vice-Consulate +and the Belgian Customs Officer forming +the whole European community of Sher-i-Nasrya.</p> + +<p>Sadek, who was great on charity, especially +when it went to my account, in order to thank +Providence for my recovery sacrificed two sheep, +and their meat was distributed to the clamouring +poor. Such an expedient was necessary, Sadek +said, or I should certainly get fever again!</p> + +<p>Owing to the Russian calendar being in disagreement +with ours, the Consul, Mrs. Benn +and I were most cordially entertained to a +second Christmas dinner by the Russian Consul,<a name="Pg_2-185" id="Pg_2-185"></a> +who had just returned from Meshed, and we +had a most delightful evening. For a convalescent, +I could not help thinking so many +Christmas dinners coming together might have +been fatal, but fortunately, owing entirely to the +charming and thoughtful kindness of my hosts, +both English and Russian, I managed to pull +through with no very ill effects. The Consular +escort of Cossacks looked very business-like and +smart as they paraded in the yard which had +been duly illuminated for the occasion.</p> + +<p>The Amir expressed a wish to see me, and as +I was just able to get on a horse the Consul and +I paid an official visit to the Governor in the +citadel. We rode in full state with the escort +of Lancers, and traversed the town along the +main street, entering from the South gate.</p> + +<p>I was again much struck by the intense +respect shown by the natives towards Major +Benn, all rising as we passed and making a +profound salaam. We traversed the greater +portion of the city by the main street, and +then arrived at the gate of the citadel in the +north-west part of Sher-i-Nasrya.</p> + +<p>The door was so low that we had some +difficulty in entering without dismounting, and +just as we were squeezing in, as it were, through +this low passage, one of the disreputable-looking +soldiers on guard fired his gun—in sign of salute—which +somewhat startled our horses and set +them a-kicking.</p> + +<p>In the small court where we dismounted was +a crowd of soldiers and servants, and here<a name="Pg_2-186" id="Pg_2-186"></a> +another salute was fired by the sentry. Through +winding, dilapidated passages and broken-down +courts we were conveyed to the Amir's room—a +very modest chamber, whitewashed, and with +humble carpets on the floor. A huge wood +fire was burning in the chimney, and the furniture +consisted of a table and six chairs, three +folding ones and three Vienna cane ones, +arranged symmetrically on either side of the +table.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-032.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-032_th.jpg" alt="Major R. E. Benn, British Consul for Sistan, and his Escort of 7th Bombay Lancers." title="Major R. E. Benn, British Consul for Sistan, and his Escort of 7th Bombay Lancers." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Major R. E. Benn</span>, British Consul for Sistan, and his Escort of 7th Bombay Lancers.</p> + +<p>The Amir sat on a folding chair on one side +of the table, and the Consul, Ghul Khan and +myself in a row on the opposite side. We were +most cordially received by Hashmat-ul-Mulk, +the Amir, who—this being Ramzam or fasting +time—showed ample evidence of mis-spent nights. +He had all the semblance of a person addicted to +opium smoking. His Excellency was unshaven +and unwashed, and seemed somewhat dazed, as +if still under the effects of opium. His discoloured +eyes stared vaguely, now at the Consul, +now at Ghul Khan, now at me, and he occasionally +muttered some compliment or other at +which we all bowed.</p> + +<p>Presently, however, his conversation became +most interesting, when, having gone through all +these tedious preliminary formalities, he began +to describe to me the many ruined cities of +Sistan. He told me how at one time, centuries +and centuries gone by, Sistan was the centre of +the world, and that a city existed some twenty +miles off, named Zaidan, the length of which was +uninterrupted for some eighty or ninety miles.<a name="Pg_2-187" id="Pg_2-187"></a></p> + +<p>"The remains of this city," he said, "are still +to be seen, and if you do not believe my words +you can go and see for yourself. In fact," added +the Amir, "you should not leave Sistan without +going to inspect the ruins. The city had flat +roofs in a continuous line, the houses being built +on both sides of a main road. A goat or a +sheep could practically have gone along the +whole length of the city," went on the Amir, to +enforce proof of the continuity of buildings +of Zaidan. "But the city had no great breadth. +It was long and narrow, the dwellings being +along the course of an arm of the Halmund +river, which in those days, before its course was +shifted by moving sands, flowed there. The +ruined city lies partly in Afghan, partly in +Sistan territory. In many parts it is covered +altogether by sand, but, by digging, houses, and +in them jewellery and implements, are to be +found all along."</p> + +<p>I promised the Amir that I would go and +visit Zaidan city the very next day.</p> + +<p>When we had once begun talking, the Amir +spoke most interestingly, and I was glad to obtain +from him very valuable and instructive information. +One hears accounts in some quarters of +the Persian officials being absolutely pro-Russian +and showing incivility to British subjects, but +on the contrary the Amir positively went out +of his way to show extreme civility. He +repeatedly inquired after my health and expressed +his fervent wishes that fever should no +more attack me.<a name="Pg_2-188" id="Pg_2-188"></a></p> + +<p>"What do you think of my beloved city, +Sher-i-Nasrya?" he exclaimed. I prudently +answered that in my travels all over the world +I had never seen a city like it, which was quite +true.</p> + +<p>"But you look very young to have travelled +so much?" queried the Amir.</p> + +<p>"It is merely the great pleasure of coming to +pay your Excellency a visit that makes me look +young!" I replied with my very best, temporarily +adopted, Persian manner, at which the +Amir made a deep bow and placed his hand +upon his heart to show the full appreciation of +the compliment.</p> + +<p>He, too, like all Persian officials, displayed +the keenest interest in the Chinese war of 1900 +and the eventual end of China. He spoke bitterly +of the recluse Buddhists of Tibet, and I +fully endorsed his views. Then again, he told +me more of historical interest about his province, +and of the medical qualities of the Halmund +water—which cures all evils. More elaborate +compliments flowed on all sides, and numberless +cups of steaming tea were gradually sipped.</p> + +<p>Then we took our leave. As a most unusual +courtesy, the Consul told me, and one meant as a +great honour, the Amir came to escort us and +bid us good-bye right up to the door,—the usual +custom being that he rises, but does not go beyond +the table at which he sits.</p> + +<p>Out we went again through the same narrow +passages, stooping so as not to knock our heads +against the low door-way, and came to our horses.<a name="Pg_2-189" id="Pg_2-189"></a> +The soldier on guard fired another salute with +his gun, and Ghul-Khan, who happened to be +near at the time, nearly had his eye put out +by it.</p> + +<p>As we rode through the gate a number of +prisoners—seven or eight—laden with chains +round the neck and wrists and all bound together, +were being led in. They salaamed us +and implored for our protection, but we could +do nothing. I could not help feeling very sorry +for the poor devils, for the way justice is administered +in Sistan, as in most parts of Persia, is not +particularly attractive. The tendons of the +hands or feet are cut even for small offences, +hot irons are thrust into the criminal's limbs, +and other such trifling punishments are inflicted +if sufficient money is not forthcoming +from the accused or their relations to buy +them out.</p> + +<p>Here is an example of Persian justice. While +I was in bed with fever, one day Major and Mrs. +Benn went for a ride along the wall of the city, +with their usual escort. On reaching the city +gate they saw several people come out, and they +were startled by a shot being fired close by them, +and a dead body was laid flat across the road. +The dead man, it appeared, had been himself a +murderer and had been kept in chains in the +Amir's custody, pending trial. The verdict might +have possibly turned in his favour had he been +willing to grease the palms of the jailors, in accordance +with old Persian custom; but although +the man was very well off, he refused to disburse<a name="Pg_2-190" id="Pg_2-190"></a> +a single shai. He was therefore there and then +handed over to the relations of the murdered +man so that they should mete out to him what +punishment they thought fit.</p> + +<p>The man was instantly dragged through the +streets of the city, and on arriving outside the +city gate they shot him in the back. The body +was then left in the road, the Persian crowd +which had assembled round looking upon the +occurrence as a great joke, and informing Major +Benn that the corpse would remain there until +some of his relations came to fetch it away. +On referring the matter to the Governor the +following day, he smilingly exclaimed: "An +eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth!"—a +quotation from the Koran that quite cleared +his conscience.</p> + +<p>This is a very common way of disposing of +criminals in Persia by allowing personal revenge +to take its course. Although such ways of +administering justice may not commend themselves +to one, the moral of it as looked upon +by Persian eyes is not as bad as it might at first +appear. The honest, the well-to-do man, they +reason, has nothing whatever to fear from anybody, +and if a man chooses to be a criminal, +he must take the consequences of it. The +more severe the punishment the less crime there +will be in the country. Persian law prevents +crime.</p> + +<p>In a province like Sistan, where the people are +not quite up-to-date as in other parts of Persia, +naturally, ways which to us may seem very cruel<a name="Pg_2-191" id="Pg_2-191"></a> +have to be applied by the Amir to impress the +people. If fines to the maximum of the prisoner's +purse are excepted, the usual way of satisfying +the law for almost any offence, the next most +common punishment is the bastinado applied on +the bare soles of the feet. When an option is +left to the prisoner of undergoing the bastinado +or paying a fine, he generally selects the sticks, +which he feels much less than the anguish of +disbursing the smallest sum in cash. Minor +crimes only are so punished—it is considered the +lightest punishment. Occasionally it is used to +obtain confessions. People are seldom known to +die under it.</p> + +<p>Disfigurement, or deprivation of essential limbs, +such as one or more phalanges of fingers, or the +ears or nose, is also much in vogue for thieves, +house-breakers and highwaymen. For second +offences of criminals so branded the whole hand +or foot is cut off. Blinding, or rather, atrophizing +the eyes by the application of a hot iron in front, +but not touching them, such as is common all +over Central Asia, is occasionally resorted to in +the less civilised parts of Persia, but is not frequent +now. I only saw one case of a man who had +been so punished, but many are those who have +the tendons of arms and legs cut—a favourite +punishment which gives the most dreadfully +painful appearance to those who have undergone +it.</p> + +<p>Imprisonment is considered too expensive for +the Government, and is generally avoided except +in the bigger cities. The prisoners have a very<a name="Pg_2-192" id="Pg_2-192"></a> +poor time of it, a number of them being chained +close together.</p> + +<p>To burn people or to bury them alive are +severe punishments which are very seldom heard +of now-a-days, but which occasionally take place +in some remote districts and unknown to his +Majesty the Shah, who has ever shown a tender +heart and has done all in his power to suppress +barbarous ways in his country; but cases or +crucifixion and stoning to death have been +known to have occurred not many years ago—if +not as a direct punishment from officials, yet +with their indirect sanction.</p> + +<p>Strangling and decapitation are still in use, and +I am told—but cannot guarantee its accuracy—that +blowing criminals from guns is rarely +practised now, although at one time this was a +favourite Persian way of disposing of violent +criminals.</p> + +<p>A Persian official was telling me that, since +these terrible punishments have been to a great +extent abolished, crimes are more frequent in +Persia than they were before. The same man—a +very enlightened person, who had travelled in +Europe—also remarked to me that had we +to-day similar punishments in Europe instead +of keeping criminals on the fat of the land—(I +am only repeating his words)—we should +not have so much crime in the country. +"Your laws," he added, "protect criminals; +our ways deter men and women from crime. +To prevent crime, no matter in how cruel a +way it is done, is surely less cruel than to show<a name="Pg_2-193" id="Pg_2-193"></a> +leniency and kindness to the persons who do +commit crimes!"</p> + +<p>That was one way of looking at it. Taking +things all round, if blood feuds and cases of +personal revenge are excepted, there is certainly +less crime in Persia than in many European +countries.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-194" id="Pg_2-194"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The London of the East—A city eighty-six miles long—The +village of Bunjar—An ancient tower—Iskil—The <i>Kalantar</i> +of Sistan—Collection of ancient jewellery from the buried +city—Interesting objects—A romantic life and tragic death—A +treacherous Afghan—Strained relations between the +Sistan and Afghan Governors—Sand-barchans—Flat roofs +and gable roofs—The pillar of Mil-i-Zaidan—A conical +ice-house—The imposing fort of Zaidan—A neighbouring +modern village.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Consul, Mrs. Benn and I, started off early +one morning on horseback to inspect the ruins of +the ancient London of the East, the great city of +Zaidan, which in the days of its glory measured +no less than eighty-six miles—from Lash Yuwain +on the north to Kala-i-Fath on the South—ruins +of the city being traceable the whole distance to +this day, except in the portion which has been +covered by the waters of the Hamun Halmund.</p> + +<p>On the way there was little to be seen for the +first four miles until we reached the village of +Bunjar, the biggest trading village in Sistan and +the residence of the Iman Jumeh, the next holiest +man to the head priest of Sher-i-Nasrya. This +village and neighbourhood supply Sher-i-Nasrya +entirely with wood and very largely with food. +There are many stunted trees about, all curved<a name="Pg_2-195" id="Pg_2-195"></a> +southwards by the wind, and much cultivated +land, the ground being intersected by numerous +natural and artificial water channels.</p> + +<p>A very curious ancient tower, split in two, and +the portion of another very much corroded at its +base, and looking like a big mushroom, are to be +seen on the south near this village. We cut +across, almost due east, to Iskil, wading through +several canals and channels into which our horses +dived up to their saddles.</p> + +<p>On approaching Iskil from the west one was +impressed by the unusual height of some of its +buildings, most of which were two-storied and +had domed roofs, the domes being of much larger +proportions than usual. A quadrangular tower +of considerable loftiness stood prominent above +the height of all the other buildings. For a +Persian village Iskil had quite a clean, fresh +appearance, even from a short distance. On +getting near we entered the main road—one +might more accurately call it a canal—walled in +on both sides and filled with water some eight or +ten inches deep. Our horses waded through, and +having rounded another large pond of dirty green +water—such as is always found in the more +prosperous villages of Persia—we came to a high +wall enclosing a garden and an Andarun near the +residence of the Kalantar of Sistan (Kalantar +means the "bigger one"), the title taken by the +head of the tribe who in by-gone days were the +masters of the whole of Sistan.</p> + +<p>The Kalantar is a large landowner, and has the +contract for all the grazing tax of East Sistan.<a name="Pg_2-196" id="Pg_2-196"></a> +Among the villages owned by him are Iskil, +Bunjar, and Kas-im-abad, the three richest in +Sistan. The name of Kalantar is taken by each +of the family as he succeeds to the possession of +these villages, lands, and rights.</p> + +<p>The Kalantar, previous to the one now in +possession, was a man of most commanding +presence, very tall and very stout—the biggest +man in Sistan—and much respected by everybody. +He was extremely friendly towards the +English. He had planted an entire garden of +English flowers and fruit at Iskil, and took the +keenest interest in horticulture and agriculture. +Above all, however, he was renowned for a +magnificent collection of ancient seals, coins, +jewellery, implements, beads, and other curiosities, +of which he had amassed chests and chests +full that had been dug up from the great city of +Zaidan and neighbourhood. Some of the cameos +were very delicately cut in hard stone, and +reminded one of ancient Greek work. Symbolic +representations in a circle, probably to suggest +eternity, were favourite subjects of these ornamentations, +such designs as a serpent biting its +own tail, or three fishes biting one another's tails +and forming a circle, being of frequent occurrence. +So also were series of triangles and +simple circles. The gold rings were most +beautifully delicate and simple in design, and so +were all the other ornaments, showing that the +people of Zaidan had a most refined civilisation +which is not to be found in Persian art of to-day. +Personally, I have certainly never seen modern<a name="Pg_2-197" id="Pg_2-197"></a> +Persian work which in any way approached in +beauty of line and execution to the articles +excavated from the great city of Zaidan.</p> + +<p>A great profusion of beads of amber, jasper, +crystal, turquoise, malachite, agate, had been +found in Zaidan and some that we saw were handsomely +polished and cut, some were ornamented, +others were made of some composition like very +hard enamel. All—even the hardest crystal +ones—had clean holes drilled through them.</p> + +<p>The Kalantar had built himself a fine residence +at Iskil, with huge rooms and lofty domes, +and here he kept these collections. His generous +nature had caused him to build a handsome +guest house in front of his dwelling in order to +put up and entertain his friends, native or +foreign.</p> + +<p>It was on the steps of his guest house that the +last act of a terrible tragedy took place only a +short time before we visited Iskil. About ten +years ago, in 1891, a man called Mahommed +Hussein Khan, an Afghan refugee, came to live +in Bunjar, bringing with him a <i>sigah</i> wife (concubine), +her mother and a child. Shortly after +his arrival he left his family in Bunjar and went +on a pilgrimage to Meshed. No news was +received of him for a very long time, and the +wife wrote to him—when her money and +patience were exhausted—that if he did not +return on a certain date or answer her letter she +should consider herself divorced from him. He +replied that she might consider herself free from +the date of receipt of his letter, and requested<a name="Pg_2-198" id="Pg_2-198"></a> +her to send her mother in charge of his child to +Meshed.</p> + +<p>During Mahommed Hussein's absence rumour +says that Kalantar Mir-Abbas had an intrigue +with the lady, and on receipt of her husband's +letter from Meshed he forcibly removed her from +Bunjar and compelled her to marry him, Mir-Abbas, +at Iskil.</p> + +<p>Unluckily, the lady was a Suni and Kalantar +Mir-Abbas was a Shia, which made it difficult +to overcome certain religious obstacles. Such a +union would anyhow be greatly resented by +relations on both sides. In fact, about a year +ago, 1900, the lady's brother, a native of Girisk, +near Kandahar, enraged at his sister marrying a +man who was not an Afghan, and of a different +persuasion, came to Iskil with characteristically +treacherous Afghan ways and sought service with +the Kalantar, assuring him of the great affection +and devotion he entertained towards him. The +good-hearted Kalantar immediately gave him +employment and treated him most generously.</p> + +<p>On the night of September 19th, 1901, the +Kalantar had been entertaining some friends in +the Durbar building opposite his residence, +among whom was the Afghan, who left the +room before Mir-Abbas and went to conceal +himself in the darkness at the entrance. When +the Kalantar was joyfully descending the steps +after the pleasant night assembly, the treacherous +Afghan attacked him and, placing his rifle to +Mir-Abbas' head, shot him dead. The assassin +then endeavoured to enter the Andarun to kill<a name="Pg_2-199" id="Pg_2-199"></a> +his sister, but the lady, having her suspicions, had +barricaded herself in, and an alarm being given +he had to make his escape across the Afghan +frontier only a few miles distant from Iskil.</p> + +<p>It was rumoured that the murderer had +been sheltered by the Afghan Governor of +the Chikansur district, who goes by the grand +name of <i>Akhunzada</i>, or "The great man of a +high family." The Governor of Sistan, angered +at the infamous deed, demanded the extradition +of the assassin, but it was refused, with the +result that the Afghan official was next accused +of screening the murderer. There was much +interchange of furious correspondence and +threats between the Persian and Afghan +Governors, and their relations became so strained +that a fight seemed imminent.</p> + +<p>The shrewd Afghan then offered to allow five +Persian soldiers, accompanied by twenty Afghans, +to search his district—an offer which was very +prudently declined. Persian and Afghan soldiers +were posted in some force on both sides of the +river—forming the frontier—and devoted their +time to insulting one another; but when I left +Sistan in January, 1902, although the relations +were still much strained, the affair of the +Kalantar, which seemed at one time likely to +turn into a national quarrel, was gradually being +settled on somewhat less martial lines.</p> + +<p>The death of such a good, honest man has +been much regretted in Sistan, and great hopes +are now built on his son and successor, a young +fellow much resembling his father both in<a name="Pg_2-200" id="Pg_2-200"></a> +personal appearance and kindliness towards his +neighbours.</p> + +<p>We next came to a second and smaller village +four miles further on—after having waded +through numberless water-channels, ponds and +pools and our horses having performed some +feats of balancing on bridges two feet wide or +even less. Some of these structures were so +shaky that the horses were not inclined to go +over them except after considerable urging.</p> + +<p>The country between was flat and uninteresting, +except that here and there some low +mounds had formed where the sand blown by +the N.N.W. wind had been arrested by some +obstacle, such as a shrub of camel-thorn or +tamarisk. Most of these sand-barchans had a +striking peculiarity. They were semi-spherical +except to the S.S.E., where a section of the sphere +was missing, which left a vacuum in the shape +of a perfect crescent.</p> + +<p>By the numberless waves on the sand surface +it seemed evident that the sand had accumulated +from the N.N.W. side.</p> + +<p>The village was small and miserable, with a +few scraggy trees bowing low, like all trees of +Sistan, towards the S.S.E., owing to the severe, +N.N.W. winds. Here instead of the everlasting +domes, flat roofs were again visible—wood +being, no doubt, available close at hand. More +curious, however, were actual gable roofs, the +first I had noticed in Persia in purely native +houses. The ventilating apertures were not in +the roof itself, as in the domed houses, but in<a name="Pg_2-201" id="Pg_2-201"></a> +the walls, which were of a much greater height +than in the domed habitations. The doors +and windows were invariably on the south wall, +but to the north at the lower portion of the +roof in each house one could observe a triangular, +projecting structure, usually in the centre of the +upper wall. This was a different type of wind-catcher, +but in winter blocked up with sun-dried +bricks and mud.</p> + +<p>Between this village and Zaidan there was +again a good deal of water to be crossed, and in +some spots it was so deep that our horses sank +into it up to their chests and we had to lie flat, +with our legs resting on the animals' backs, to +escape a ducking.</p> + +<p>To our left—to the north—could be seen in +the distance a high tower, which is said to have +a spiral staircase inside, and must be of very +great height, as even from where we were—eight +miles away—it rose very high above the +horizon, some 70 feet, as we guessed, and looked +very big. This tower stood alone several miles +to the North of the principal Zaidan ruins for +which we were steering, and I had not therefore +time to visit it.</p> + +<p>The pillar is locally called Mil-i-Zaidan, and +is circular in shape, made of kiln-baked bricks +cemented together by clay. On the summit, +above a broad band with ornamentations and +a much worn inscription can be seen the fragments +of two smaller structures, also cylindrical, +which may have been the supports of the dome +of the minaret. There is said to be another<a name="Pg_2-202" id="Pg_2-202"></a> +illegible inscription about thirty feet from the +ground.</p> + +<p>According to Goldsmid, who visited this place +in 1872, the tower then stood on a square foundation, +and its circumference was 55 feet at the +base and only 28 feet at the summit. The lower +portion of the tower, as seen through powerful +glasses, seemed very much corroded, and it will +not be long before it collapses. There are +various theories regarding this tower, which now +rises directly above the flat desert. It is said by +some to be one of a number of isolated watch +towers, but this, I think, is incorrect.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-033.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-033_th.jpg" alt="The Citadel of Zaidan, the Great City." title="The Citadel of Zaidan, the Great City." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Citadel of Zaidan, the Great City.</p> + +<p>According to Major Sykes, who quotes from +the Seljuk history: "Every three hundred paces +a pillar twice the height of a man was built and +two <i>minars</i> between Gurz and Fahraj, one forty +<i>gaz</i> high, the other twenty-five, and <i>under</i> each +<i>minar</i> a caravanserai and a tank." By the word +"under" the historian evidently meant directly +underneath the tower—which was the customary +way of constructing such buildings. The <i>minars</i> +seldom rose from the ground, but were and are +generally constructed on the roofs of buildings. +A proof that this was the case in this particular +instance was that when Goldsmid visited it in +1872, he stated that it "was built on a square +foundation."</p> + +<p>The caravanserai underneath this tower and +the tank are evidently buried by the sand, as is +the case with a great portion of the City of +Zaidan. That there is underneath the sand a +city connecting the southern portion of Zaidan<a name="Pg_2-203" id="Pg_2-203"></a>—still +partly above ground—with the northern portion +of Zaidan, and that this <i>minar</i> rises above +buried habitations, there can be little doubt, for +all along the several miles of intervening sandy +stretch the earth is covered with debris, ruins and +fragments of tiles, bricks, &c., &c., showing the +remains of a great city.</p> + +<p>As we went along, leaving the pillar to the +north and steering south-east for the main ruins +of Zaidan, we saw close by on the north a very +large structure forming the section of a cone—the +lower portion buried in sand and the upper +portion having collapsed,—which a Sistani who +accompanied us said was an ancient ice-house. +This theory may be correct, for it is probable +that the climate of Sistan may have greatly +changed; but it is also possible that the structure +may have been a large flour-mill, for to this day +mills are built in Persia on similar exterior lines +to the ice-houses. Structures of the same kind +are also to be observed as far south as Kala-i-Fath, +the southern terminus of the great city.</p> + +<p>No ice to speak of can be collected nowadays, +either in Sistan or within a very large radius of +country, and snow is seldom, almost never seen.</p> + +<p>Near this mill or ice-house, whichever it was, +another high building in ruins was to be observed, +but I could not afford the time to deviate from +my route and inspect it. It appeared like a +watch-tower, and was not dissimilar to two other +round towers we had seen before on the south,—very +likely they were all outer fire-signalling +stations, so common all over Asia.<a name="Pg_2-204" id="Pg_2-204"></a></p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-034.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-034_th.jpg" alt="The Zaidan West Towers and Modern Village." title="The Zaidan West Towers and Modern Village." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Zaidan West Towers and Modern Village.</p> + +<p>After a brisk ride of some four hours we +arrived at the main portion of the ruins of +Zaidan—an imposing fort on a clay hill, which +must have formed the citadel. At the foot of +the hill was the modern village of Zaidan—about +fifty houses, some with flat, others with gabled, +roofs, such as we had seen at the previous villages, +and a few with domed roofs. There were a few +cultivated fields in which wheat was raised.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-205" id="Pg_2-205"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An ancient city as big as London—The citadel—Towers—Small +rooms—The walls—Immensity of the city—Sand drifts—Why +some parts are buried and some are not—An extensive +wall—Great length of the city—Evidence that the habitations +were continuous—The so-called Rud-i-Nasru—Its position—A +double outer wall—A protected road—Interesting +structures—An immense graveyard—Tombs—Sand drifts +explained—A former gate of the city—The <i>Chil-pir</i> or +tomb of forty saints—Interesting objects found—Beautiful +inscriptions on marble and slate—Marble columns—Graceful +lamps—Exciting digging—A tablet—Heptagonal tower—A +ghastly figure.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> we approached the ruins we could not help +being impressed by their grandeur. They were +certainly the most imposing I had so far come +across in Persia. The high walls and towers of +the fort could be seen from a great distance, and +for the benefit of my readers a photograph is +reproduced in this book to show how the citadel +of this great city appeared as one drew near it +from the west. The photograph was taken half +a mile away from the fortress.</p> + +<p>We entered the citadel by a short incline on +the northern side of the main fort and found ourselves +in a huge court, the sides of which were +much blocked towards the wall by sand drifts. +Contrary to what has been stated by others, the<a name="Pg_2-206" id="Pg_2-206"></a> +citadel is not inhabited to-day, nor are there any +signs of its having been inhabited probably for a +great many years. There is nothing whatever to +be seen in the centre of this yard, which is covered +with accumulated sand far above its original level, +and at the sides, too, of the court, where buildings +would have very likely been, everything is +smothered in sand up to a great height of the +wall. In other places the wall has collapsed +altogether.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-035.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-035_th.jpg" alt="Towers of the Citadel, Zaidan." title="Towers of the Citadel, Zaidan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Towers of the Citadel, Zaidan.</p> + +<p>Remains of small rooms high up near the top +of the wall can be seen. The inside of the inner +fort enclosed by the highest wall is quadrangular, +and has ten towers round it, eight of which are +still in wonderful preservation considering their +age. Those at the angles of the quadrangle had +large, somewhat elongated, windows ending in a +point cut into them in two tiers, as may be seen in +the illustration. Curiously enough, while the +windows were six feet in height, the doors were +never more than five feet. There were rooms in all +the towers, but all were extremely small. The +largest averaged eight feet square. The walls of +the towers were of mud bricks with layers of +kiln-baked bricks, and were three to four feet +deep and of very great strength.</p> + +<p>As can be seen by the illustration, a fragment +of an archway was to be found on the summit of +the wall and there were often signs that a covered +passage, such as may be found in other northern +forts of this great city, must have been in existence +when the place was in all its glory.</p> + +<p>As one stood on the highest point of the wall<a name="Pg_2-207" id="Pg_2-207"></a> +and looked around one got a fair idea of the +former immensity of the city. It evidently +stretched from south-east to north, forming an +obtuse angle at the citadel on which I stood. +To the south-east of the fortress, where sheltered +from the terrific north winds and from the sand +drifts, the ruins were in better preservation and +less covered with sand, which here indeed made +quite a depression, while the northern aspect now +displays a continuous mass of fine sand interrupted +only by some of the higher buildings projecting +above it.</p> + +<p>One could distinguish quite plainly where the +wall of the city continued for a long distance to +the south-east with occasional towers, but this +portion of the wall, as seen in the illustration +facing page <a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a>, is now in a sad state of decay and +fast being covered with sand. The first three +hundred yards of it, which are the best preserved, +however, will show what a place of great strength +Zaidan must have been. The towers appear to +have been enormous, as shown by the base of the +nearer one in the foreground of the photograph, +and also by the second one, a portion of which +still remained standing.</p> + +<p>The city boundary made a detour to the +south-east at the third tower, all the buildings +visible being on the east of the wall and none +to the west. The modern village of Zaidan +should, of course, be excepted.</p> + +<p>There seems to have been a great space +intervening between this wall and the nearest +habitations, but why that was would now be<a name="Pg_2-208" id="Pg_2-208"></a> +difficult to ascertain except by digging to a +considerable depth. It seems hardly likely that +a moat with water should have been constructed +on the inside of the fortress, although at first +sight one might be led to conclude that this +was the case.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-036.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-036_th.jpg" alt="S.E. Portion of Zaidan City, showing how it disappears under distant sand accumulations." title="S.E. Portion of Zaidan City, showing how it disappears under distant sand accumulations." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">S.E. Portion of Zaidan City</span>, showing how it disappears under distant sand accumulations.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-037.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-037_th.jpg" alt="Double Wall and Circular Unroofed Structures, Zaidan. In the distance high sand accumulations above City." title="Double Wall and Circular Unroofed Structures, Zaidan. In the distance high sand accumulations above City." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Double Wall and Circular Unroofed Structures, Zaidan.</span> In the distance high sand accumulations above City.</p> + +<p>The city does not seem to have had a great +general breadth, and is mostly remarkable for +its enormous length, although at several of the +most important points it has indeed considerable +width. It extended mostly like a long line, and +one could still perceive, as far as the eye could +see, partially destroyed domed roofs, fragments +of walls, and in some cases entire structures still +standing and bearing roofs. The ice-house, +which we had passed on the way, stood prominent +to the north by north-west and also the +pillar, the <i>minar</i> of Mil-i-Zaidan.</p> + +<p>Major Sykes makes a very quaint statement +in the <i>Geographical Journal</i> for February, 1902. +He says: "I have seen it stated by previous +travellers" (presumably Sir F. Goldsmid and +Bellew) "that the ruins of Zaidan extend for +fourteen miles, but the fact is that <i>there were +villages lining the Rud-i-Nasru throughout its +length</i> (a length of 30 miles according to Major +Sykes's maps), and these have been mistaken for +suburbs of the capital of Sistan."</p> + +<p>It seems to me that Major Sykes has only +strengthened the contention of previous travellers +and that, whether one calls them suburbs +or a continuity of habitations, villages, or by +any other name, the fact is that continuous<a name="Pg_2-209" id="Pg_2-209"></a> +miles of buildings can be traced. The Rud-i-Nasru +canal, according to Major Sykes's own +maps as given in the <i>Geographical Society's +Journal</i>, is over 30 miles in length, and if the +30 miles are lined <i>throughout</i> by villages surely +that fact further establishes the continuity of the +city.</p> + +<p>Personally, however, I have my doubts +whether Major Sykes is correct in placing the +Rud-i-Nasru to the west of the city in Zaidan's +days of glory. There are signs of a canal, but +to the east of the city. The Hamun, too, I +think, no more stretched across from east to +west in the northern portion than it does to-day, +but rather formed two separate lakes—the +eastern one fed by the surplus water of the +Halmund; the western filled by the Farah +Rud. The space between is liable to be occasionally +flooded by the excess of water in these +two lakes, but that is all.</p> + +<p>All the evidence goes to show that the great +city, under different local names, extended continuously +northwards as far as Lash Yuwain, passing +between the two marshy lakes. In the next +chapter I have brought undoubted evidence +pointing to that conclusion, and if any one is +still sceptical about it, all he has to do is to go +there and see for himself. In such a dry climate +the ruins, although gradually being covered over +with sand, will remain long enough for any one +wishing to spend some time there and to make +a thorough study of them.</p> + +<p>To the east of the Zaidan fort, about 100 yards<a name="Pg_2-210" id="Pg_2-210"></a> +and 200 yards respectively, are the remains, +still fairly well preserved, of a high double wall, +castellated and with loop-holes half-way up the +wall. These two walls, where free from sand, +stand some 40 feet high, but in most portions the +sand has accumulated to a height of 15 to 20 feet.</p> + +<p>These parallel walls were somewhat puzzling. +They were only a few feet apart and protected a +road between them which went from north-west +to south-east. Each wall was constructed very +strongly of two brick walls filled between with +beaten earth. The lower portion of the wall was +much corroded by the wind and sand, but the +upper part where it had not collapsed, was in +good preservation. There were rows of holes +at the bottom on the east side, where there +appeared to have been extensive stables with +mangers for horses. The lower portion of the +wall was of kiln-baked bricks, and the upper part +in horizontal layers of baked bricks every four +feet and mud bricks between.</p> + +<p>Of the two parallel walls the eastern one was +not castellated, but the western or inner had a +castellated summit. There was an outer moat +or canal.</p> + +<p>Only a comparatively small portion of this +double wall stood up to its former height—merely +a few hundred feet of it—but traces +could be seen that it must have extended for a +very long distance. It appeared to be tortuous +and not in a straight line, its direction being +plainly traceable even in the photograph reproduced +in the illustration facing page <a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a>. Only<a name="Pg_2-211" id="Pg_2-211"></a> +one tower of a quadrangular shape could be seen +along this wall, and the apertures in the wall +were at regular intervals of four feet. The +doorway in these walls appeared to have been +next to the quadrangular tower, which was very +likely constructed in order to guard the gate.</p> + +<p>There were small circular unroofed structures +between the fort itself and this double wall, but +they appeared more like the upper sections of +towers than actual habitations. Though much +smaller and lower they bore all the architectural +characteristics of the towers of the greater fort, +and possessed windows, one above the other, +similar to those we had found in the larger +towers of the main fort. In the illustration +the reader can see for himself. That a considerable +portion of this structure is buried is +shown by the fact that the upper portion of a +window is just visible above the sand in the +circular building to the left of the observer. +These structures had in the interior some +elaborately moulded recesses, and ornamented +windows in pointed arches. The circular +building had three rooms on the floor still above +ground and six small recesses. One window +was in most excellent preservation.</p> + +<p>Further on, beyond the double wall to the +south-east, was a most extensive graveyard, a +portion of which had been freed from sand by +the natives of the modern village of Zaidan. +There were hundreds and hundreds of tombs, +some in quite good preservation, as can be seen by +the two photographs facing pages 212 and 214.<a name="Pg_2-212" id="Pg_2-212"></a></p> + +<p>The photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a> shows the +eastern portion of the graveyard where some of +the tombs were altogether free from sand, and in a +splendid state of preservation. They were made +of kiln-burnt bricks plastered over with mud, +the body, it may be remarked, being enclosed in +these rectangular brick cases and entirely above +ground. They were mostly single tombs, not +compound graves, like some which we shall +inspect later on (Mount) Kuh-i-Kwajah. Their +measurements were about 7 feet by 4 feet by +3½ feet, and they were extremely simple, except +that the upper face was ornamented by a +series of superposed rectangles diminishing in +size upwards and each of the thickness of one +brick, and the last surmounted generally by a +prism.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-038.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-038_th.jpg" alt="Interior of Zaidan Fortress." title="Interior of Zaidan Fortress." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Interior of Zaidan Fortress.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-039.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-039_th.jpg" alt="Graveyard of Zaidan City." title="Graveyard of Zaidan City." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Graveyard of Zaidan City.</p> + +<p>The photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a> shows the +north-western portion of the graveyard, with the +entire eastern aspect of the Zaidan fortress. I took +this photograph for the special purpose of proving +how high the sand has accumulated over many +portions of the graveyard, as well as over a great +portion of the city. The particular spot where +I took the photograph was somewhat protected +from the north, hence the low depression, slightly +more free from sand than further back where +the sand, as can be seen, was able to settle down +to a great height. The upper portions of +several graves can be noticed mostly buried in +sand, and by the ripples on the sand and the +casting of the shadows (the photograph was +taken in the afternoon when the sun was west)<a name="Pg_2-213" id="Pg_2-213"></a> +it can be seen plainly that the sand has accumulated +from the north.</p> + +<p>Under the immediate lee of the fortress and of +the outer walls, similar depressions in the sand +were found, and it is owing to these that some +portion of the city was still uncovered by sand.</p> + +<p>In the photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a> it may be +noticed that where the lee of the high fortress no +longer protects the buildings from the drifting +sand, the city gradually disappears, as it were, +under fairly high accumulations.</p> + +<p>We shall find later, on our journey to the +Beluchistan frontier, how these sand accumulations, +in their turn, forming themselves into +barriers against the sands which came from the +north, allowed further southerly portions of the +city to escape unburied, which portions can be +seen extending in and out of these transverse sand +ridges as far south as Kala-i-Fath. North of the +Zaidan fortress the sand, finding no high +obstacles, has accumulated to a much greater +height, only very lofty buildings remaining +visible above the surface.</p> + +<p>In the photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a> this high +cushion, as it were, of sand can plainly be seen +over the north of the city beyond the tower of +the castle; also a portion of the small canal at +the foot of the tower, which some will have it +was the Rud-i-Nasru.</p> + +<p>In the distance towards the south-east, two +quadrangular towers could be seen, which the +Katkhuda of Zaidan village told us formed part +of one of the former gates of the city. These<a name="Pg_2-214" id="Pg_2-214"></a> +two towers can be seen in the background of +the photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-212">212</a>.</p> + +<p>Some distance beyond the graveyard we came +to a section of a tower, heptagonal in form, +which had just been dug out to a depth of 4 feet +by the natives of the village of Zaidan. The +Katkhuda—who could have given points to an +Irishman—told us that this was the tomb of the +renowned legendary "Forty Saints of Zaidan," +and added, that they numbered forty-four! On +being asked why it was called the tomb of the +forty saints if their number was forty-four, he +did not lose his presence of mind, but explained +that four had been added afterwards when this +sacred spot had already received its legendary +name.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-040.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-040_th.jpg" alt="East View of the Zaidan Citadel." title="East View of the Zaidan Citadel." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">East View of the Zaidan Citadel.</p> + +<p>For a very long time the Zaidan people had +searched for this sacred spot, and they seemed +very proud to have discovered it. It is called by +them <i>Chil-pir</i>, or the "forty saints." As the +tower is not large enough to contain them all, +a number of them are said to be buried in the +immediate neighbourhood to the south and west +of the structure, and the Katkhuda, to prove his +words, showed us some three graves, more elaborate +than the rest. There were also others that +were anxiously searched for, but had not been +located yet.</p> + +<p>The graves which I was shown were entirely +of kiln-burnt bricks, and so was the wall of the +tower itself, as can be seen by a portion of it +showing in the illustration facing page <a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a>, behind +the marble inscription and columns.<a name="Pg_2-215" id="Pg_2-215"></a></p> + +<p>Since its discovery the natives had made this +into a <i>Ziarat</i> or shrine, and on its western side +(towards Mecca) had adorned it with a bundle +of sticks, horns, and a number of rags, or pieces +of ribbon, white, red or blue. Every Mussulman +visiting it leaves an offering of a piece of +cloth generally from his coat or turban, if a man, +or from the chudder or other feminine wearing +apparel if a woman.</p> + +<p>The Katkhuda told us that a great many things +had been found in digging near here, but the +more valuable ones had disappeared, sold to officials +or rich people of Sistan. A great many +seals, coins, stone weapons, lamps and pottery +had been found, the latter often glazed. Innumerable +fragments of earthenware were strewn +everywhere round about these ruins, some with +interesting ornamentations, generally blue on +white ground. The "parallel lines" and "heart +pattern" were common, while on some fragments +of tiles could be seen quotations from the +Koran in ancient Arabic. Some pieces of tiles +exhibited a very handsome blue glaze, and on +some plates the three leaf pattern, almost like +a fleur-de-lis, was attempted, in company with +the two-leaf and some unidentified flower.</p> + +<p>Most interesting of all were the beautiful +inscriptions on stone and marble, recently been +found in the tomb of the Forty Saints. Some +had already been covered again by the sand, but +we dug them out afresh and I photographed +them. They were in fair preservation. They +bore Arabic characters, and were apparently<a name="Pg_2-216" id="Pg_2-216"></a> +dedicated in most laudatory terms, one to "the +Pomp of the country, Sun of righteousness and +religion, and the founder of a mosque"; the other +commemorated the death of a great Amir. As, +however, there appears to be some difficulty in +deciphering some of the very ancient characters +I will refrain from giving any translation of them +for fear of being inaccurate. The photographs +given of them facing pages 218, 220, 222, are, +however, quite clear enough for any one interested +in the matter to decipher them for himself.</p> + +<p>These tablets were most artistic and beautifully +carved, and one had a most charming +ornamentation of two sprays of flowers in each of +the two upper corners. The second inscription +had much more minute writing on it, and was of +a finer design and cut, but was, unfortunately, +rather worn. It had evidently been subjected to +a long period of friction—apparently by sand. +The natives had made a sort of altar with this +last inscription and some cylindrical sections of +columns carved out of beautiful marble, white or +most delicately variegated.</p> + +<p>There were also various other large pieces of +marble and stone, which had evidently formed +part of a very fine and rich building, as well as a +very ancient fragment of a red baked earthenware +water-pipe. Many of the pieces of marble in +the heap contained ornamentations such as successions +of the heart pattern, graceful curve scrolls +suggesting leaves, and also regular leaf patterns. +One stone was absolutely spherical, like a cannon +ball, and quite smooth; and some stone imple<a name="Pg_2-217" id="Pg_2-217"></a>ments, +such as a conical brown hammer and a +pestle, were very interesting.</p> + +<p>On the white marble columns stood two +charming little oil lamps, of a most graceful +shape, in green earthenware, and in digging we +were fortunate enough to find a third, which is +now in my possession. They can be seen in the +illustration (facing page <a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a>), although I fear not +at their best, being so small. They were not unlike +the old Pompeian lamps in shape, and certainly +quite as graceful. The wick used to be lighted +at the spout.</p> + +<p>Among other fragments was the capital of a +pillar, and portions of Koran inscriptions. As +we dug excitedly with our hands in the sand we +found other inscriptions on slate and on grey-stone, +of one of which I took an impression on +paper. It seemed much more ancient than the +others and had a most beautiful design on it of +curves and flowers.</p> + +<p>A tablet at the entrance of the tomb of the +Forty Saints was not of marble but of slate +carved. It bore the following date: ۱۲۸۲ which +I believe corresponds to 1282. The heptagonal +tower had two entrances, one to the north, the +other to the south, but was, unfortunately, +getting smothered in sand again.</p> + +<p>We became greatly excited on discovering the +inscriptions, and pulled up our sleeves and proceeded +in due haste to dig again in the sand—a process +which, although much dryer, reminded +one very forcibly of one's younger days at the +seaside. Our efforts were somewhat cooled by a<a name="Pg_2-218" id="Pg_2-218"></a> +ghastly white marble figure which we dug up, +and which had such a sneering expression on its +countenance that it set the natives all round +shrieking with laughter.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-041.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-041_th.jpg" alt="The Figure we dug out at Zaidan." title="The Figure we dug out at Zaidan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Figure we dug out at Zaidan.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-042.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-042_th.jpg" alt="Arabic Inscription and marble columns with earthenware lamps upon them. Fragment of water-pipe. Stone implements. Brick wall of the Tombs of Forty Saints showing in top corners of photograph." title="Arabic Inscription and marble columns with earthenware lamps upon them. Fragment of water-pipe. Stone implements. Brick wall of the Tombs of Forty Saints showing in top corners of photograph." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Arabic Inscription and marble columns with earthenware lamps upon them. Fragment of water-pipe. Stone implements. Brick wall of the "Tombs of Forty Saints" showing in top corners of photograph.</p> + +<p>We thought we had better leave off. Moreover, +the natives who had accompanied us +seemed rather upset at my photographing and +digging, and now that I had got what I wanted +I did not care to make them feel more uneasy +than was necessary. I had exhausted all the +photographic plates I had brought out with me, +night was coming on fast, and we had twenty +miles to ride back. On my last plate I photographed +our last find, which is reproduced for +the benefit of my readers facing page <a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a>.</p> + +<p>This ugly head, with a very elongated and +much expanded nose and a vicious mouth full of +teeth, had been carved at the end of a piece of +marble one and a half feet high. The head, with +its oblique eyes, was well polished, but the +remainder of the marble beyond the ears, which +were just indicated by the artist, was roughly +cut and appeared to have been made with the +intention of being inserted into a wall, leaving +the head to project outside. Its flat forehead, +too, would lead to the conclusion that it had been +so shaped to act as a support, very likely to some +tablet, or moulding of the mosque.</p> + +<p>The Katkhuda said that it was a very ancient +god, but its age was not easy to ascertain on so +short an acquaintance. It certainly seemed +very much more ancient than anything else we +had found and inspected at Zaidan.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-219" id="Pg_2-219"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A short historical sketch of Zaidan city—How it was pillaged +and destroyed—Fortresses and citadels—Taimur Lang—Shah +Rukh—Revolutions—The Safavi dynasty—Peshawaran, +Pulki, Deshtak—Sir F. Goldsmid's and Bellew's +impressions—The extent of the Peshawaran ruins—Arabic +inscriptions—A curious ornamentation—Mosques and +<i>mihrab</i>—Tomb of Saiyid Ikbal—The Farah Rud and +Harut Rud—The "Band" of the Halmund—Canals and +channels old and new of the Halmund delta—The Rud-i-Nasru +and the Rud-i-Perian—Strange temporary graves—Ancient +prosperity of Eastern Persia.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is not for me to go fully into the history of +this great city of Zaidan, for so much of it rests +on speculation and confused traditions that I +would rather leave this work to some scientist +of a more gambling disposition than my own; +but now that I have described what I myself +saw I will add a few historical details which +seem correct, and the opinions of one or two +other travellers in that region which add interest +to the place as well as strengthen my statements. +With the many photographs which I took and +which are reproduced in this book, I hope that +a fair idea of the place will be conveyed to the +reader.</p> + +<p>The following short historical notes were<a name="Pg_2-220" id="Pg_2-220"></a> +furnished to me by the Katkhuda (or head +village man) of the present village near the +Zaidan ruins. I reproduce them verbatim, +without assuming any responsibility for the accuracy +of the historical dates, but the information +about the great city itself I found to be correct.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-043.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-043_th.jpg" alt="Arabic Inscription on Marble dug by Author at the City of Zaidan." title="Arabic Inscription on Marble dug by Author at the City of Zaidan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Arabic Inscription on Marble dug by Author at the City of Zaidan.</p> + +<p>When Shah Rukh Shah was ruler of +Turkistan, and one Malek Kutuh-ud-din was +ruler of Sistan and Kain, Shah Rukh Shah was +engaged in settling disturbances in the northern +part of his dominions, and <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Melek'">Malek</ins> Kutuh-ud-din, +taking advantage of it, attacked Herat and +plundered it. Shah Rukh Shah, hearing of this, +collected an army and marched on Sistan. +During this march he devastated the country, +which was then very fertile and wealthy, and +captured and dispersed the inhabitants of the +endless city of Zaidan—which extended from +Kala-i-Fath, to the south (now in Afghan +territory on the present bank of the Halmund), +to Lash Yuwain on the north (also in Afghan +territory on the bank of the Farah Rud), a +distance, according to the Trigonometrical +Survey Maps, of 86 miles as the crow flies. +This would agree with the account given me by +the Amir of the extent of the city.</p> + +<p>The city of Zaidan was protected by a large +fortress at every six farsakhs (24 miles). Each +fortress was said to be strongly garrisoned with +troops, and had a high watch tower in the +centre similar to that which I saw at a distance +on the north-east of Iskil, and which has been +described in previous pages.<a name="Pg_2-221" id="Pg_2-221"></a></p> + +<p>Another historical version attributes the +destruction of Zaidan and adjoining cities to +Taimur Lang (Tamerlane) or Taimur the lame +(<span class="smcap">a.h.</span> 736-785), father of Shah Rukh +whose barbarous soldiery, as some traditions will +have it, were alone responsible for the pillage of +Zaidan city and the devastation of all Sistan. +The name of Taimur Lang is to this day held in +terror by the natives of Sistan.</p> + +<p>But whether Zaidan was devastated twice, or +whether the two accounts apply to the same +disaster, it is not easy to ascertain at so distant a +date. There are obvious signs all over Eastern +Sistan that the country must have undergone +great trouble and changes—probably under +the rule of Shah Rukh and his successors (<span class="smcap">a.h.</span> +853-873), after which revolutions seem to have +been rampant for some sixty years, until Shah +Ismail Safavi conquered Khorassan and the +neighbouring countries, founding a powerful +dynasty which reigned up to the year <span class="smcap">a.h.</span> 1135.</p> + +<p>Under the Safavi dynasty Sistan seems to have +been vested in the Kayani Maliks, who are +believed to be descendants of the royal house of +Kai. (I came across a village chief claiming to +be the descendant of these Kayani rulers.)</p> + +<p>To return to the Zaidan ruins, as seen to-day +from the highest point of the citadel wall, the +ruined city stretches in a curve from north to +south-east. It is to the south-east that the ruins +are less covered with sand and in better preservation, +the citadel standing about half way between +its former north and southern termini. There is<a name="Pg_2-222" id="Pg_2-222"></a> +every evidence to show that the present extensive +ruins of Peshawaran to the north, Pulki, +Deshtak (Doshak described by Bellew) and +Nad-i-Ali were at one epoch merely a continuation +of Zaidan the great city, just as Westminster, +South Kensington, Hammersmith, &c., are the +continuation of London, and make it to-day the +largest conglomeration of houses in the world. +It was evidently necessary to subdivide such an +enormous place into districts.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-044.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-044_th.jpg" alt="Transfer of Inscription dated 1282, found in the Tomb of Forty Saints, Zaidan." title="Transfer of Inscription dated 1282, found in the Tomb of Forty Saints, Zaidan." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Transfer of Inscription dated 1282, found in the "Tomb of Forty Saints," Zaidan.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-045.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-045_th.jpg" alt="Transfer of Ornament above four lines of Koran on Grave Stone." title="Transfer of Ornament above four lines of Koran on Grave Stone." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Transfer of Ornament above four lines of Koran on Grave Stone.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-046.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-046_th.jpg" alt="Transfer of Ornamentations on Marble Grave." title="Transfer of Ornamentations on Marble Grave." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Transfer of Ornamentations on Marble Grave.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-047.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-047_th.jpg" alt="Presumed Summits of Towers buried in Sand, Zaidan." title="Presumed Summits of Towers buried in Sand, Zaidan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Presumed Summits of Towers buried in Sand, Zaidan.</p> +<p class="figcenter">Notice top of Castellated Wall behind.</p> + +<p>Bellew, who visited the ruins in 1872, speaks +of Zaidan as "extending as far as the eye can +reach to the north-east, and said to be continuous +with the ruins of Doshak (Deshtak), about nine +miles from the Helmund. These ruins, with +those of Pulki, Nadali and Peshawaran, are the +most extensive in Sistan, and mark the sites of +populous cities, the like of which are not to be +found at this present day in all this region between +the Indus and the Tigris."</p> + +<p>Doshak or Deshtak is situated about fourteen +miles south by south-east of Sher-i-Nasrya, on the +right bank of the main canal which extended +from the Halmund towards the west. It was a +large walled town, with towers and a square fort +in the centre. Deshtak is said to have been the +residence and capital of the first member of the +Safavi dynasty in Sistan, which, like all other +cities of Sistan, was pillaged and razed to the +ground by the terrible Taimur Lang. On its +ruins rose the smaller city of some 500 houses +which we have mentioned—also called Jalalabad—and +which eventually became the seat of<a name="Pg_2-223" id="Pg_2-223"></a> +Bahram Khan, the last of the Kayani chiefs. +The city was built by him for his son Jalaludin, +after whom it was named. Jalaludin, however, +was expelled from the throne, and from that date +the Kayani family ceased to reign in Sistan.</p> + +<p>Pulki was also located on this main canal, east +of Deshtak, and Peshawaran was situated due +north of Zaidan. They consist of an immense +extent of ruins. Both Sir F. Goldsmid and +Bellew, who travelled in that part testify to the +whole country between Jalalabad, Buri-i-Afghan +and Peshawaran being covered with ruins.</p> + +<p>The ruins at Peshawaran I was not able to +visit, they being in Afghan territory—now forbidden +to Englishmen—and, being the guest of +the British Consul, I did not wish to cause trouble. +Sir F. Goldsmid, who visited them during the +Perso-Afghan Frontier Mission, describes them +as covering a great area and being strongly +built of alternate layers of sun-burnt and baked +brick. The ruins of a madrassah, with a mosque +and a <i>mihrab</i>, were most extensive, and had traces +of ornamentations, and an inscription, said to be +Kufic. The walls of the citadel were (in 1872) +in fairly good repair. "The citadel," Sir F. +Goldsmid relates, "was of a circular form, somewhat +irregular in shape, with a diameter of from +two to three hundred yards. The walls are +about fifty feet high, built strongly of baked +brick, with a species of arched covered gallery, +five feet high and five feet wide, running round +the summit of the ramparts."</p> + +<p>A very similar arrangement was to be seen on<a name="Pg_2-224" id="Pg_2-224"></a> +the Zaidan fort, as can be noticed in the photograph +which I took and which is reproduced in +the full page illustration (facing page <a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a>).</p> + +<p>"Two massive round towers guard the gateway +approached by a narrow steep ascent. In +the centre of the fort on a mound stood a +superior house, probably the residence of the +Governor. To the south,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> dense drifts of sand +run to the summits of the ramparts."</p> + +<p>If these drifts can rise so high on the high +wall of the citadel, it is certain that a great many +of the smaller buildings must be rather deep +under the sand level by now, but that they are +there, there can be little doubt, for fragments of +tiles, bricks, vases, &c., strew the ground. No +doubt the usual critic will wonder how it is that, +if the houses are buried, these fragments are not +buried also. The wind principally is responsible +for their keeping on the surface of the sand. +They are constantly shifted and are blown from +place to place, until arrested by some obstacle +such as a wall, where a great number of these +fragments can generally be found collected by +the wind.</p> + +<p>"The great characteristic of these ruins"—continues +Sir F. Goldsmid—"is the number +of accurately constructed arches which still +remain, and which are seen in almost every +house, and the remains of strongly built windmills, +with a vertical axis, as is usually the case +in Sistan."</p> +<p><a name="Pg_2-225" id="Pg_2-225"></a></p> +<p>This again, as we have seen, is also one of the +characteristics of the Zaidan buildings.</p> + +<p>The ruins of Peshawaran are subdivided into +several groups, such as the Kol Marut, Saliyan, +three miles east of the fort, Khushabad, Kalah-i-Mallahun, +Nikara-Khanah, &c.</p> + +<p>Bellew, who camped at Saliyan, describes this +section of the ruins "which cover many square +miles of country, with readily distinguishable +mosques and colleges (madrassahs), and the Arabic +inscriptions traceable on the façades of some of +the principal buildings clearly refer their date to +the period of the Arab conquest, and further, as +is evidenced by the domes and arches forming +the roofs of the houses, that then, as now, the +country was devoid of timber fit for building +purposes. The most remarkable characteristic +of these ruins is their vast extent and excellent +preservation."</p> + +<p>I, too, am of Bellew's opinion about these +points. The several inscriptions I found at +Zaidan, photographs of which I have given in this +book, were, as we have seen, in Arabic; the +ornamentations of which I took tracings were +Arabic in character.</p> + +<p>Bellew reckons the great extent of the Peshawaran +section of the ruins as covering an area +of about six miles by eight. He states that +they were the outgrowths of successive cities +rising on the ruins of their predecessors upon +the same spot, and, like the other few travellers +who have intelligently examined the ruins, came +to the conclusion that in point of architecture<a name="Pg_2-226" id="Pg_2-226"></a> +and age the whole length from Lash Yuwain to +the north to Kala-i-Fath to the south, and including +Peshawaran, Zaidan and Kali-i-Fath were +absolutely identical.</p> + +<p>Goldsmid supplies information similar to +Bellew's regarding the Peshawaran ruins, and he +writes that on his march north to Lash Yuwain +he had to go three or four miles to the west on +account of the ruins. He speaks of seeing a +place of worship with a <i>mihrab</i>, and, curiously +enough, on the wall above it he found "the +masonic star of five points surrounded by a circle +and with a round cup between each of the points +and another in the centre." He also saw the +tomb of Saiyid Ikbal, also mentioned by another +traveller, Christie.</p> + +<p>Eight miles west by north-west from the ruins +rises a flat-topped plateau-like hill, called the +Kuh-i-Kuchah, not dissimilar in shape to the +Kuh-i-Kwajah to the south-west of Sher-i-Nasrya. +Four villages are found near it. To +the east of it is found the Farah Rud, and to its +west the Harut Rud,—two rivers losing themselves +(when they have any water in them) +into the lagoon. The Harut is not always +flowing. To the south is the Naizar lagoon +forming part of the Hamun-Halmund. (This +lagoon was mostly dry when I went through.) +It has formed a huge lake at various epochs, but +now only the northern portion, skirting the +southern edge of the Peshawaran ruins, has +any permanent water in it, and is principally +fed by the delta of canals and by the overflow<a name="Pg_2-227" id="Pg_2-227"></a> +of the Halmund, over the Band, a kind of +barrage.</p> + +<p>Some explanation is necessary to make things +clear.</p> + +<p>On the present Afghan-Perso boundary, at a +place called the "Band-i-Sistan," is the great +dam across the Halmund, completely turning the +waters of the stream, by means of semi-artificial +canals, for the irrigation of Sistan. Hence +the fertility of that district. The dam, "the +Band," as it is called by the natives, is a barrier +slightly over 700 feet long, constructed of upright +wooden stakes holding in position +horizontal fascines of tamarisk interwoven, +strengthened by stones and plastered with mud +to form a semi-solid wall. In olden days the +Band was so feebly constructed that it was +generally carried away every year at the spring +floods, but now greater attention is given to its +construction and it is kept in fairly good repair, +although portions of it usually collapse or are +carried away by the force of the current during +the floods. The height of the Band is not more +than eighteen or twenty feet. Practically the +actual river course comes to an end at this Band, +and from this point its waters are spread into +a delta of canals, large and small, subdivided +into hundreds other tortuous channels. The +Hussein Ki Canal is one of the most important, +and feeds Zaidan, Iskil, Bunjar and Sher-i-Nasrya, +Husseinabad, and other places, and is +subdivided into minor channels during its course. +It flows roughly in a north-west direction.<a name="Pg_2-228" id="Pg_2-228"></a></p> + +<p>In 1896, according to Major Sykes (<i>Royal +Geographical Society's Journal</i>), a new canal, +known as the Rud-i-Perian, was formed, and +destroyed Jahanabad, Ibrahimabad and Jalalabad. +This canal, he says, is not far from the +Rud-i-Nasru, which he seems to think was at +one time the main stream and flowed in a +natural bed past Zaidan to the west of it, but +personally I have my doubts about the accuracy +of this statement. I believe that the Rud-i-Nasru +was merely a shallow canal that passed +to the west of Zaidan, but that the river course +of the Halmund itself was always to the east of +Zaidan as well as of the other adjoining cities +north of Zaidan. The Canal to the east of +Nad-i-Ali is no doubt a naturally cut channel, +the obvious continuation under natural circumstances +of the river course. The same remark +might apply to the small channel self-cut to +the west of that place. There are other important +channels, such as the Madar-Ab, which +supplies water to Chiling, Pulki and Sekhuka; +the Kimak canal and the Kasimabad. Before +the present dam was constructed some eighty +years ago, a previous "Band" existed, as we +shall see, further up the course of the Halmund +to the south, and secured the irrigation of the +southern portion of Sistan, which is now absolutely +dry and barren. Dried up canal beds of great +length are still to be found in southern Sistan.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-048.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-048_th.jpg" alt="Sketch Plan of Zaidan Citadel" title="Sketch Plan of Zaidan Citadel" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Sketch Plan of "<span class="smcap">Zaidan Citadel</span>"</p> +<p class="figcenter">by</p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">A. Henry Savage Landor.</span></p> + +<p>It would be a great undertaking to describe +accurately all these canals and the various +positions they have occupied at different epochs,<a name="Pg_2-229" id="Pg_2-229"></a> +and the task would at best be most thankless +and useless, for, with the exception of the larger +ones, the minor ones keep constantly changing +their course by cutting themselves new beds in +the soft soil. Anybody who has visited eastern +Sistan, even in a very dry season, as I did, +knows too well how the ground is intersected +in all directions by myriads of natural water +channels, all fed by the Halmund, so that, unless +one had months of time at one's disposal, it +would hardly be possible to map them all out +exactly.</p> + +<p>During flood time the water flows over the +Band and into its natural channel due north up +into the Hamun, where it loses itself.</p> + +<p>There is a good deal of verdure, trees, and +high reeds near the banks of the river at the +Band, with many snakes, while fish is plentiful +in the water and myriads of wild fowl are to be +seen.</p> + +<p>Curious conical temporary graves of mud can +occasionally be seen, some six feet high, the body +being, it is said, buried standing within these +cones previous to proper interment with due +ceremony. On the outside, clear imprints made +while the mud was still soft of several sized +hands—presumably of the deceased's relations or +friends—were left on the surface of the cone, +the imprints being one above the other in +a line.</p> + +<p>Among the ruins of Peshawaran, Bellew found +traces of several canals, now dry, one of which, +however, had been restored by the chief of<a name="Pg_2-230" id="Pg_2-230"></a> +Hokat and brought a stream of good water up +to the Silyan ruins for irrigation purposes.</p> + +<p>As for the southern end of the great city at +Kala-i-Fath, we have very good accounts from +Ferrier, Goldsmid, and Bellew, all testifying +to its great extent. Here, too, there is a strong +citadel standing on an artificial mound, and +seeming to have been repaired some twenty-five +or thirty years ago. Bellew says that the ruins +extend over several miles of country, and Goldsmid +speaks of a circumference of ruins of some +two and a half miles at Kala-i-Fath, with a large +citadel and fine arched buildings within. He +mentions spacious courtyards and the remains of +reservoirs, caravanserais, and large buildings in +abundance, but no vestige of anything approaching +magnificence.</p> + +<p>This, however, is the case with everything +Persian, whether ancient or modern, especially +in regard to architecture, and a great deal of +the humbleness of the buildings is, I think, due +to the facts that the inhabitants of Persia are +nomads by nature; that the shifting sands drive +people from their homes; that rivers constantly +alter their courses, and that the water supply is +a constant source of difficulty in most parts of +Iran; moreover the terrible wars and invasions +made the natives disinclined to construct themselves +very elaborate houses which they might +at any moment have to abandon.</p> + +<p>These reasons account for the extraordinary +number of abandoned villages, towns, fortresses, +and whole ruined suburbs of towns all over Persia,<a name="Pg_2-231" id="Pg_2-231"></a> +a sight which I think cannot be seen on such a +large scale in any other country in the world.</p> + +<p>At Kala-i-Fath the question of the water may +not have been the principal one, but the fear of +constant attacks must have deterred the natives +from erecting magnificent buildings. Or else +how could we account for these enormous +fortresses which are found all along to protect +the great city?</p> + +<p>Goldsmid describes a fine caravanserai at +Kala-i-Fath, built of large baked bricks, each +brick eleven inches square, and displaying a +nicety of design foreign to Sistan. The caravanserai +seems to have been domed over a large +central courtyard, with wings for rooms and +stabling; and an adjoining ice-house of mud +bricks. In the graveyard fragments of alabaster +and tiles were found.</p> + +<p>The wall round the city which Goldsmid +describes—six feet at the base tapering to one +foot at the summit—is somewhat different in +character from that of Zaidan, and is, to my +mind, of much later construction, as are many +of the buildings.</p> + +<p>"Some of the streets," he says, "which all +run from east to west, are in excellent preservation +and as if they were of recent construction."</p> + +<p>It is quite possible, in fact, very probable, +that this portion of the great city—which, by +the bye, is said to have been the last capital of +the Kayani Kings, and was deserted by them +when attacked by Nadir Shah—has, owing to +its favourable geographical position on the east<a name="Pg_2-232" id="Pg_2-232"></a> +bank of the Halmund, been inhabited to a +certain extent until a much later date. The +local accounts, at least, would point to that +conclusion.</p> + +<p>A dry canal exists, which we shall cross on +our way to the Beluchistan frontier; it is fed by +the Halmund, north of Kala-i-Fath, and strikes +across the plain in a westerly direction.</p> + +<p>If all the accounts given by people who have +been there are taken into consideration, together +with the photographs here given, which seem +to me to show that the place was one of unusual +grandeur; if the fact is grasped that, whether +considered as a single city or a conglomeration +of adjoining successive cities, Zaidan was undoubtedly +a continuous and uninterrupted row +of houses of no less than eighty-six miles; I +think that whatever theories may be expounded +by the usual scientific speculator at home, the +fact must remain that this ancient London of +Asia marks a period of astounding prosperity in +the history of Eastern Persia.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> I think this must be a mistake; it should be to the north.—A.H.S.L.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-233" id="Pg_2-233"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXIV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Sistan—Dadi—Not one's idea of a pasture—The +Kuh-i-Kwajah—Its altitude—The "City of roars of +laughter"—Interesting ascent to the summit—A water +reservoir—Family graves—Dead-houses—A grave with +thirty-eight compartments—The Gandun Piran Ziarat—Scrolls +and inscriptions—Priest's house—Modern graves—Skulls +and their characteristics—A smaller Ziarat—The +Kuk fort—A bird's-eye view of Kala-i-Kakaha city—Strange +legends about the city—Why Kala-i-Kakaha is +famous.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Owing</span> to the tender care of Major and Mrs. +Benn I was, at the beginning of 1902, in a fair +condition of strength to undertake the journey of +600 miles on camels across Northern Beluchistan +to Quetta. With the help of Major Benn I +made up a fresh caravan entirely of running +camels, and expected therefore to be able to +travel very fast. The camels selected were excellent, +and the two Beluch drivers who came +with me most faithful, considerate and excellent +servants. Sadek also accompanied me.</p> + +<p>Everything was made ready to start by +January 2nd, but some hitch or other occurred +daily, and it was not till January 10th that I was +able to take my departure—sorry indeed to say<a name="Pg_2-234" id="Pg_2-234"></a> +good-bye to my new good friends, Major and +Mrs. Benn, to whose charmingly thoughtful +care I altogether owed it that I was now able +to proceed in good health.</p> + +<p>The hour of our departure was fixed for +5 o'clock <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, but my three cats, suspecting +that we were going to move from our comfortable +quarters, disappeared during the night, and +some hours were wasted by Sadek and all the +servants of the Consulate in trying to find them +again. I was determined not to start without +them. Sadek was furious, the camel men impatient, +the guard of Lancers sent by the Consul +to accompany me for some distance had been +ready on their horses for a long time, and everybody +at hand was calling out "Puss, puss, puss!" +in the most endearing tones of voice, and searching +every possible nook.</p> + +<p>After four hours of expressive language in +Persian, Hindustani, Beluchi and English, at +nine o'clock the cats were eventually discovered. +One had hidden under a huge pile of wood, all +of which we had to remove to get him out; the +second had found a most comfortable sanctum in +Mrs. Benn's room, and the third, having ascertained +that his companions had been discovered, +walked out unconcerned and entered the travelling +box of his own accord.</p> + +<p>I was sorry to leave Sistan too, with its ancient +ruins, its peculiar inhabitants, a mixture of all +kinds, its quaint city, so strikingly picturesque +especially at sunset, when, owing to the moisture +in the air, beautiful warm colours appeared in<a name="Pg_2-235" id="Pg_2-235"></a> +the sky, and the thousands of camels, and sheep, +moving like so many phantoms in clouds of dust, +returned to their homes. The sad dingling of +their bells sounded musical enough in the +distance, and one saw horsemen dashing full +gallop towards the city before the gates were +closed, every man carrying a gun. Far to the +west in the background stood the Kuh-i-Kwajah +mountain, so famous in the history of Sistan. +All this after the dreary, long Salt Desert journey +had seemed heavenly to me, and I was more than +sorry to leave the place.</p> + +<p>Had I been a Russian instead of an Englishman +I would not have continued my journey on +the morning of my departure, for on coming out +of the Consulate gate the first thing I saw was a +dead body being washed and prepared for interment +by relatives in the dead-house adjoining +the Consulate wall. The Russians believe the +sight of a dead body an ill-omen at the beginning +of a journey.</p> + +<p>Gul Khan, the Consul's assistant, accompanied +me as far as the Kuh-i-Kwajah mountain, +to inspect which I had to make a detour.</p> + +<p>We passed south of Sher-i-Nasrya, and, after +wading through numberless water channels and +skirting large pools of water, crossed a tiny +anonymous village of six domed huts, and then +came to a very large one rejoicing in the name +of Dadi. My fast camels carrying loads had +gone ahead, and we, who had started later on +horses, caught them up some sixteen miles onward, +where there was a third little village, the<a name="Pg_2-236" id="Pg_2-236"></a> +inhabitants of which were wild-looking and +unkempt. The women and children stampeded +at our approach. The houses were flat-topped +and were no taller than seven feet, except the +house of the head village man which was two-storeyed +and had a domed roof.</p> + +<p>When the Hamun Halmund extended as far +south as Kandak the Kuh-i-Kwajah mountain +was an island, but now the whole country around +it is dry except some small swamps and pools, +on the edges of which thousands of sheep could +be seen grazing. It took a very powerful sight +indeed to see what the animals were grazing on. +One's idea of a pasture—we always picture a +pasture for sheep as green—was certainly not +fulfilled, and after a minute inspection one saw +the poor brutes feeding on tiny stumps of dried +grass, yellowish in colour and hardly distinguishable +from the sand on which it grew in clusters +not more than half an inch high.</p> + +<p>Where the Hamun had been its bed was now +of a whitish colour from salt deposits.</p> + +<p>The <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Kuk'">Kuh</ins>-i-Kwajah (mountain), occasionally +also called Kuh-i-Rustam, rising as it does +directly from the flat, is most attractive and +interesting, more particularly because of its +elongated shape and its flat top, which gives it +quite a unique appearance. Seen from the east, +it stretches for about three miles and a half or +even four at its base, is 900 feet high, and about +three miles on top of the plateau. The summit, +even when the beholder is only half a mile away +from it, appears like a flat straight line against<a name="Pg_2-237" id="Pg_2-237"></a> +the sky-line, a great boulder that stands up +higher on the south-west being the only interruption +to this uniformity. The black rocky +sides of the mountain are very precipitous—in +fact, almost perpendicular at the upper portion, +but the lower part has accumulations of clay, +mud and sand extending in a gentle slope. In +fact, roughly speaking, the silhouette of the +mountain has the appearance of the section of an +inverted soup-plate.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-049.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-049_th.jpg" alt="silhouette of kuh-i-kwajah." title="silhouette of kuh-i-kwajah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">silhouette of kuh-i-kwajah.</p> + +<p>Major Sykes, in the <i>Royal Geographical +Society's Journal</i>, describes this mountain as +resembling in shape "an apple," but surely if +there ever was anything in the world that had +no resemblance whatever to "an apple" it was +this mountain. It would be curious to know +what Major Sykes calls "an apple."</p> + +<p>The diagram here appended of the outline of +the mountain, and indeed the photograph given +by Major Sykes in the <i>Royal Geographical +Society's Journal</i>, February, 1902, page 143, will, +I think, be sufficient to convince the least +observant on this point. Major Sykes is also no +less than 500 feet out in his estimate of the +height of the hill. The summit is 900 feet +above the plain—not 400 feet as stated by him.</p> + +<p>The altitude at the base is 2,050 feet, and at<a name="Pg_2-238" id="Pg_2-238"></a> +the summit 2,950 feet. As we rounded the +mountain to the southward to find a place at +which we could climb to the top, we saw a very +ancient fort perched on the summit of the +mountain commanding the ruins of Kala-i-Kakaha, +or the "city of roars of laughter,"—a +quaint and picturesque city built on the +steep slope of the south escarpment of the +mountain.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-050.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-050_th.jpg" alt="Sketch Map" title="Sketch Map" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Sketch Map</p> + +<p class="figcenter">of Summit of Kuh-i-Kwajah</p> + +<p class="figcenter">by A. Henry Savage Landor.</p> + +<p>In the centre of this city was a large and high +quadrangular wall like a citadel, and it had +houses all round it, as can be seen by the +bird's-eye view photograph I took of it from +the fort above, a view from which high point +of vantage will be described at the end of this +chapter.</p> + +<p>We went along the outer wall of the city on +a level with the plain at the hill's base, but we +abandoned it as this wall went up the mountain +side to the north. Some high columns could be +seen, which appeared to have formed part of a +high tower. The sides of the hill on which +the city was built were very precipitous, but a +steep tortuous track existed, leading to the city +on the east side, the two gates of the city being +situated—one north-east, the other north-west—in +the rear of the city, and, as it were, facing +the mountain side behind. On the south-west +side high accumulations of sand formed an +extensive tongue projecting very far out into the +plain.</p> + +<p>The rocky upper portion of the Kuh-i-Kwajah +mountain was black towards the east, but getting<a name="Pg_2-239" id="Pg_2-239"></a> +yellowish in the southern part, where there were +high sand accumulations up to about three-quarters +of the height of the mountain, with +deep channels cut into them by water.</p> + +<p>We came to a narrow gorge which divides the +mountain in two, and by which along a very +stony path between high vertical rocks the +summit of the table mountain could be reached. +We left our horses in charge of a lancer and +Mahommed Azin, the head village man of Deh-i-Husena—a +man who said he was a descendant +of the Kayani family, and who professed to know +everything about everything,—Gul Khan and I +gradually climbed to the higher part of the +mountain. I say "gradually" because there was +a great deal to interest and puzzle one on the +way up.</p> + +<p>This path to the summit had been formerly +strongly fortified. Shortly after entering the +gorge, where we had dismounted, was a strange +wall cut in the hard, flint-like rock by a very +sharp, pointed instrument. One could still +distinctly see the narrow grooves made by it. +Then there were curious heads of the same rock +with side hollows that looked as if caused by the +constant friction or some horizontal wooden or +stone implement. I was much puzzled by these +and could not come to a definite conclusion of +what could have been their use. Even our +guide's universal knowledge ran short; he +offered no explanation beyond telling me that +they had been made by man, which I had long +before discovered for myself.<a name="Pg_2-240" id="Pg_2-240"></a></p> + +<p>A small reservoir for rain-water was found +near this spot, and nearly at the top of the +hillock a ditch had been excavated near the +easiest point of access, and another ditch could +be seen all round. The low land round the +mountain has most certainly been inundated +at various epochs, forming a shallow, temporary +swamp, but not a permanent lake as has +been asserted by some, and from what one +saw one was tempted to believe that the plain +around Kuh-i-Kwajah must have been dryer in +the days of its glory than it has been in this +century.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-051.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-051_th.jpg" alt="Dead Houses and Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah." title="Dead Houses and Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Dead Houses and Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-052.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-052_th.jpg" alt="A Family Tomb (Eight Compartments) on Kuh-i-Kwajah." title="A Family Tomb (Eight Compartments) on Kuh-i-Kwajah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Family Tomb (Eight Compartments) on Kuh-i-Kwajah.</p> + +<p>On reaching the summit we found ourselves +on an undulating plateau covered with graves, +but these graves, unlike all others which I had +seen in Persia, had not only the characteristic +points of the Zaidan ones in which the body was +encased in the tomb above the level of the +ground, but were in compartments and contained +whole families. The first grave we examined +was made of huge boulders and was six yards +long, four yards wide and had four sections, each +occupied by a skeleton and covered over with +flat slabs of stone. Each compartment was +about 1½ feet high, 2½ feet broad, and 6 feet +long. Near this family grave was a quarry of +good stone from which stones for grinding wheat, +hand-mortars, &c., had been cut. At the foot +was a reservoir for rain-water.</p> + +<p>One was rather surprised on reaching the +summit of Kuh-i-Kwajah to find it so undulating, +for on approaching the mountain from the plain<a name="Pg_2-241" id="Pg_2-241"></a> +one was specially impressed by its straight upper +outlines against the sky. The summit is actually +concave, like a basin, with numerous hillocks all +round, and one portion, judging by sediments left, +would appear to have contained a lake. In the +centre of the plateau are two extensive artificial +camps dug into the earth and rock, and having +stone sides. On a hillock to the west of one of +these ponds stands a tomb with no less than ten +graves side by side.</p> + +<p>From this point eastwards, however, is the +most interesting portion of this curious plateau. +Numerous groups of graves are to be seen at +every few yards, and two dead-houses, one with +a large dome partly collapsed on the north +side, the other still in the most perfect state of +preservation. The photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a> +gives a good idea of them. The larger and +more important dead-house had a central hall +4½ yards square, and each side of the square +had an outer wing, each with one door and one +window above it. Each wing projected three +yards from the central hall. To the east in the +central hall there was a very greasy stone, that +looked as if some oily substance had been deposited +on it, possibly something used in preparing +the dead. Next to it was a vessel for +water.</p> + +<p>Outside, all round the walls of this dead-house, +and radiating in all directions, were graves, all +above ground and as close together as was possible +to construct them, while on the hillocks to +the south of the dead-houses were hundreds of<a name="Pg_2-242" id="Pg_2-242"></a> +compartments for the dead, some in perfect condition, +others fallen through; some showing +evident signs of having been broken through by +sacrilegious hands—very likely in search of +treasure.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-053.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-053_th.jpg" alt="Kala-i-Kakaha, the City of Roars of Laughter." title="Kala-i-Kakaha, the City of Roars of Laughter." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter."</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-054.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-054_th.jpg" alt="The Gandun Piran Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah." title="The Gandun Piran Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The "Gandun Piran" Ziarat on Kuh-i-Kwajah.</p> + +<p>On the top of a hillock higher than the others +was a tomb of thirty-eight sections, all occupied. +A lot of large stones were heaped on the top of +this important spot, and surmounting all and +planted firmly in them was a slender upright +stone pillar 6½ feet high. It had no inscription +upon it nor any sign of any kind, and had been +roughly chipped off into an elongated shape. +Near this grave, which was the most extensive +of its kind that I had observed on the plateau, +was a very peculiar ruined house with four +rooms, each four yards square, and each room +with two doors, and all the rooms communicating. +It was badly damaged. Its shape was +most unusual.</p> + +<p>We then proceeded to the Ziarat, a pilgrimage +place famous all over Persia and south-western +Afghanistan. I was fortunate enough to take a +good photograph of its exterior (see opposite), +which will represent its appearance to the reader +better than a description. A high rectangular +building plastered all over with mud, a front arch +or alcove giving access to a small door, and two +domed low stone buildings, one on either side, +and another ruined building with a wall around +it behind the Ziarat. A few yards to the left +of the entrance as one looked at it was a coarse +upright stone pillar.<a name="Pg_2-243" id="Pg_2-243"></a></p> + +<p>The inside of the Ziarat was more interesting +than the outside. It was a very large whitewashed +single room, with high vaulted ceiling, +and in the centre rose from the floor to a height +of three feet a gigantic tomb, six yards in length, +with a gabled top. It measured one yard and a +half across at the head, and one yard at its foot, +and had two stone pillars some five feet high +standing one at each extremity. To these two +end pillars was tied a rope, from which hung +numberless rags, strips of cloth and hair. Behind +the head of the tomb along the wall stretched a +platform four and a half feet wide, on which +rested two brass candlesticks of primitive shape, +a much-used kalyan, and a great number of rags +of all sizes, ages, and degrees of dirt.</p> + +<p>The scrolls and inscriptions on the wall were +very quaint, primitive representations of animals +in couples, male and female, being the most +indulged in by the pilgrims. Goats and dogs +seemed favourite subjects for portrayal.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-055.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-055_th.jpg" alt="male and female goats. dog." title="male and female goats. dog." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">male and female goats.        dog.</p> + +<p>A lock of human hair and another of goat's +hair hung on the wall to the right of the +entrance, and on two sticks laid across, another +mass of rags, white, blue, yellow and red. +Hundreds more were strewn upon the ground, +and the cross bars of the four windows of the +Ziarat were also choke-full of these cloth<a name="Pg_2-244" id="Pg_2-244"></a> +offerings. Among other curious things noticeable +on the altar platform were a number of +stones scooped into water-vessels.</p> + +<p>This Ziarat goes by the name of Gandun +Piran, and is said to be some centuries old. In +the spring equinox pilgrimages are made to this +Ziarat from the neighbouring city and villages, +when offerings of wheat are contributed that the +donor may be at peace with the gods and expect +plentiful crops. These pilgrimages take very +much the form of our "day's outing on a Bank +Holiday," and sports of various kinds are +indulged in by the horsemen. It is the custom +of devout people when visiting these Ziarats to +place a stone on the tomb, a white one, if +obtainable, and we shall find this curious custom +extending all over Beluchistan and, I believe, +into a great portion of Afghanistan.</p> + +<p>Directly in front of the Ziarat was the priests' +house, with massive, broad stone walls and nine +rooms. The ceilings, fallen through in most +rooms, were not semi-spherical as usual but +semi-cylindrical, as could still be seen very +plainly in the better-preserved one of the central +room. This house had a separate building +behind for stables and an outer oven for baking +bread. The dwelling was secluded by a wall.</p> + +<p>The top of Kuh-i-Kwajah is even now a +favourite spot for people to be laid to their +eternal rest, and near this Ziarat were to be +found a great many graves which were quite +modern. These modern tombs, more elaborate +than the old ones, rose to about five feet above the<a name="Pg_2-245" id="Pg_2-245"></a> +ground, had a mud and stone perforated balustrade +above them all round, and three steps by which +the upper part could be reached. They seldom, +however, had more than three bodies in each +tomb.</p> + +<p>We found on the ground a very curious +large hollowed stone like a big mortar, which +seemed very ancient. Then further were more +old graves in rows of five, six, eight, and more. +When one peeped into the broken ones, the +temptation to take home some of the bleached +skulls to add to the collection of one's national +museum, and to let scientists speculate on their +exact age, was great. But I have a horror of +desecrating graves. I took one out—a most +beautifully preserved specimen—meaning to +overcome my scruples, but after going some +distance with it wrapped up in my handkerchief +I was seized with remorse, and I had to go and +lay it back again in the same spot where it had +for centuries lain undisturbed.</p> + +<p>I examined several skulls that were in good +condition, and the following were their principal +characteristics. They possessed abnormally +broad cheek-bones, and the forehead was very +slanting backwards and was extremely narrow +across the temples and broad at its highest +portion. The back portion of the skull, in +which the animal qualities of the brain are said +by phrenologists to reside, was also abnormally +developed, when compared to European skulls. +The top section (above an imaginary plane +intersecting it horizontally above the ear) was<a name="Pg_2-246" id="Pg_2-246"></a> +well formed, except that in the back part there +was a strange deep depression on the right side +of the skull, and an abnormal development on +the left side. This peculiarity was common to a +great many skulls, and was their most marked +characteristic. Evidently the brains of the +people who owned them must have constantly +been working on a particular line which caused +this development more than that of other +portions of the skull.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-056.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-056_th.jpg" alt="A Bird's Eye View of Kala-i-Kakaha, the City of Roars of Laughter." title="A Bird's Eye View of Kala-i-Kakaha, the City of Roars of Laughter." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Bird's Eye View of Kala-i-Kakaha, the "City of Roars of Laughter."</p> + +<p>The upper jaw was rather contracted and +mean as compared to the remaining characteristics +of the skull, slanting very far forwards where it +ended into quite a small curve in which the front +teeth were set. The teeth themselves were +extremely powerful and healthy. The bumps +behind the ear channels were well marked.</p> + +<p>The whole skull, however, as seen from above, +was more fully developed on its right side than +on the left; also the same abnormal development +on the right side could be noticed under the +skull at the sides, where it joins the spinal +column. In a general way these skulls reminded +one of the formation of the skulls of the present +Beluch.</p> + +<p>Another smaller Ziarat partly ruined was to be +found south of the one we had inspected, the +tomb itself being of less gigantic proportions, +and now almost entirely buried in sand. The +two end pillars, however, remained standing upright, +the northern one being, nevertheless, +broken in half. The door of this Ziarat was to +the south of the building, and had a window<a name="Pg_2-247" id="Pg_2-247"></a> +above it. The walls had a stone foundation, +some 2 feet high, above which the remainder +of the wall was entirely of mud, with a perforated +window to the west. The tomb itself was +8 feet long by 4 feet wide. A small square +receptacle was cut in the northern wall.</p> + +<p>We had now come to the Kuk fort above the +city of Kala-i-Kakaha on the south of the mountain. +With the exception of a large round +tower, 40 feet in diameter at the base, there +remained very little to be seen of this strong-hold. +Sections of other minor towers and a +wall existed, but all was a confused mass of debris, +sand and mud.</p> + +<p>From this point a splendid view was obtained +of the city of Kala-i-Kakaha just below, of which +a photograph from this bird's eye aspect will be +found facing p. <a href="#Pg_2-246">246</a> of this volume. There was +an extensive courtyard in the centre enclosed by a +high wall, and having a tower in the centre of +each of the two sides of the quadrangle. A belt +of buildings was enclosed between this high wall +and a second wall, which had two towers, one at +each angle looking north towards the cliff of the +mountain from which we observed. Outside +this wall two rows of what, from our high point +of vantage, appeared to be graves could be seen, +while to the east were other buildings and cliff +dwellings extending almost to the bottom of the +hill, where a tower marked the limit of the city.</p> + +<p>From this point a tortuous track could be +seen along the gorge winding its way to the city +gate, the only opening in the high third wall,<a name="Pg_2-248" id="Pg_2-248"></a> +most irregularly built along the precipice of the +ravine. At the foot of the mountain this wall +turned a sharp corner, and describing roughly a +semicircle protected the city also to the west.</p> + +<p>At the most north-westerly point there seemed +to be the principal gate of the city, with a +massive high tower and with a road encased +between two high walls leading to it. The +semicircle formed by the mountain behind, +which was of a most precipitous nature, was +enclosed at its mouth by a fourth outer wall, +with an inner ditch, making the fortress of Kala-i-Kakaha +practically impregnable.</p> + +<p>The legend about Kala-i-Kakaha city furnished +me by the Sar-tip, through Gul Khan, was very +interesting.</p> + +<p>In ancient days there was in that city a deep +well, the abode of certain godly virgins, to whom +people went from far and near for blessings. +Visitors used to stand listening near the well, +and if their prayers were accepted the virgins +laughed heartily, whereby the city gained the +name of Kaka-ha (roar of laughter). Silence on +the part of the sanctimonious maidens was a +sign that the prayers were not granted.</p> + +<p>The Sistan historical authorities seem to think +this origin of the name plausible. There were, +however, other amusing, if less reliable legends, +such as the one our friend Mahommed Azin +gave me, which is too quaint to be omitted.</p> + +<p>"In the time of Alexander the Great," he told +us, "Aristotles the famous had produced an +animal which he had placed in <i>a</i> fort" (<i>which</i><a name="Pg_2-249" id="Pg_2-249"></a> +fort Mahommed Azin seemed rather vague +about). "Whoever gazed upon the animal was +seized with such convulsions of laughter that he +could not stop until he died.</p> + +<p>"When Alexander was 'in the West' (<i>i.e.</i> +<i>maghreb zemin</i>)" continued Mahommed Azin, +"he had seen this wonderful 'animal of laughter' +produced by Aristotles, and some seventy or +eighty thousand soldiers had actually died of +laughter which they could not repress on seeing +it. Plato only, who was a wise man, devised a +ruse to overcome the terrible effects of looking at +the animal. He brought with him a looking-glass +which he placed in front of the brute, and, sure +enough, the demon, which had caused the +hilarious death of many others, in its turn was +seized by hysterical laughing at itself, and of +course could not stop and died too."</p> + +<p>Mahommed Azin was somewhat uncertain +whether the animal itself had resided in the +fortress of the Kuh-i-Kwajah mountain, or +whether the owner of the animal had visited +the place, or whether the place had been named +merely in honour of the legend of the "animal of +laughter." All I can say is that when Mahommed, +with a grave face, had finished his inimitable story, +Gul Khan and I were also seized with such uncontrollable +fits of hilarity that, notwithstanding +our mournful surroundings of graves and dead-houses, +we, too, very nearly went to swell the +number of victims of Mahommed Azin's "animal +of laughter," although without the pleasure of +having made its personal acquaintance.<a name="Pg_2-250" id="Pg_2-250"></a></p> + +<p>Mahommed Azin positively finished us up +when he gravely added that it was most dangerous +to recount the legend he had told us for he had +known people die of laughter by merely listening +to it. There was some truth in that. We +nearly did, not only at the story but at the story-teller +himself!</p> + +<p>Kala-i-Kakaha is a famous spot in Persian +history, for it is said that the great Persian hero +Rustam's first exploit was to capture this city +and slay its king <i>Kuk</i>, after whom the fort +standing above Kakaha is named. In more +modern days Kakaha, which, from ancient times, +had been a place of shelter for retreating princes +hard driven by the enemy, has become noteworthy +for its seven years' resistance to the +attacks of Nadir's troops, when the Kayani King +Malik-Fath, having abandoned his capital, Kala-i-Fath +had taken refuge in the impregnable +city of Kala-i-Kakaha.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-251" id="Pg_2-251"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Villages between Sher-i-Nasrya and Kuh-i-Kwajah—The last +of the Kayani—Husena Baba—Thousands of sheep—The +Patang Kuh—Protecting black walls—A marsh—Sand +dunes—Warmal—Quaint terraces—How roofs are built—A +spacious residence built for nine shillings—Facial +characteristics of natives—Bread making—Semi-spherical +sand mounts—Natural protections against the northerly +winds.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were benighted on the mountain and did +not reach the village of Deh-i-Husena till nearly +nine o'clock, our friend and guide having lost his +way in the dark and having taken us round the +country for a good many more miles than was +necessary. It is true the night was rather black +and it was not easy to see where the low mud-houses +of his village were.</p> + +<p>The distance in a direct line from Deh-i-Husena +to the foot of the Kuh-i-Kwajah mountain +was 4 miles, and the village of Deh-i-Husena +was about 15 miles from Sher-i-Nasrya, the +village of Dadi we had passed being 9 miles off, +and Sanchuli 14¾ miles from the city and only +a quarter of a mile from Deh-i-Husena. To +the south of the latter village was Deh-i-Ali-Akabar.</p> + +<p>We spent the night at Deh-i-Husena,<a name="Pg_2-252" id="Pg_2-252"></a> +Mahommed Azin, the head village man and guide, +being so entertaining in his conversation that he +kept us up till all hours of the morning. He +professed to be one of the only two surviving +members of the Kayani family which formerly +reigned over Sistan, his cousin being the other. +According to his words—which, however, could +not always claim to be models of accuracy—his +family had a good deal of power in Sistan up to +about forty years ago (1860). They were now +very poor.</p> + +<p>Mahommed Azin had well-cut features and +bore himself like a man of superior birth, but he +was very bitter in his speech against fate and things +in general. It was, nevertheless, wonderful how +a man, living in a small village secluded from +everybody and everywhere, had heard of flying +machines, of submarine boats, of balloons that +<i>ferenghis</i> made. His ideas of them were rather +amusing, but he was very intelligent and quick +at grasping how they worked when I explained +to him. Surgery interested him intensely, and +after that politics. The Ruski and Inglis he was +sure would have a great deal of trouble over +Sistan. He could not quite make up his mind +as to which was the bigger nation. When he +heard Ruski's accounts of themselves he certainly +thought the Ruski were the greater +people, but when he listened to the Inglis and +what they could do he really believed they must +be stronger.</p> + +<p>"Who do you think is the most powerful?" +he inquired of me.<a name="Pg_2-253" id="Pg_2-253"></a></p> + +<p>"Of course, the Inglis, without doubt."</p> + +<p>"Then do you think that your king will grant +me a pension, so that I can live in luxury and +without working to the end of my days?"</p> + +<p>"The king does not usually grant pensions to +lazy people. Pensions are granted to people who +have done work for the country."</p> + +<p>"Well then, you see," exclaimed Mahommed +Azin, in thorough unreasonable Persian fashion, +"you say your king is greater than the Ruski +king, and he would not grant me a pension, I the +last of the Kayanis!" He was sure the Ruski +potentate would at once if he knew!</p> + +<p>I left Husena at 9.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on January 11th, +striking south for Warmal. There were a good +many wretched villages in succession half a mile +or so apart from one another, such as Dubna, +Hasan-Jafa, Luftulla and Husena Baba. The +ground was covered with white salt which +resembled snow.</p> + +<p>Husena Baba was quite a large and important +village. The inhabitants came out in great +force to greet us. Although wood was extremely +scarce at this village, nearly all the houses had +flat roofs supported on rough rafters. Matting +on a layer of reeds prevented the upper coating of +mud from falling through. I came <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'accross'">across</ins> +several horses laden with bundles of long reeds +which they dragged behind them, and which +they had carried, probably from the Naizar, +where they were plentiful.</p> + +<p>We had altered our course from south to east, +and here I parted with useful Gul Khan and the<a name="Pg_2-254" id="Pg_2-254"></a> +escort, who had to return to the Consulate. I +mounted my riding camel and started off, this +time south-east, on my way to Warmal.</p> + +<p>Again we saw thousands of sheep grazing on +the flat desert of dried mud and salt cracked in +innumerable places by the sun. Here and there +a close examination showed tiny tufts of dried +grass, some two inches in circumference, and not +more than half an inch tall, and at an average +distance of about ten feet from one another. It +was astounding to me that so many animals could +find sufficient nourishment for subsistence on so +scanty a diet, but although not very fat the sheep +seemed to be in pretty good condition.</p> + +<p>To the west we had a high ridge of mountains—the +Patang Kuh—and between these mountains +and our track in the distance an extensive +marsh could be distinguished, with high reeds in +profusion near its humid banks.</p> + +<p>To the east some miles off were Dolehtabad +(village), then Tuti and Sakawa, near Lutok.</p> + +<p>South-east before us, and stretching for several +miles, a flat-topped plateau rose to no very great +height above the horizon, otherwise everything +was flat and uninteresting all around us. Some +very curious walls of black mud mixed with +organic matter, built to shelter sheep from the +fierce north winds while proceeding from one +village to another, can be seen in the <i>lut</i>. These +black dashes on the white expanse of salt +and sand have about the same effect on the +picturesqueness of the scenery as coarse scrawls +with a blunt pen on a fine page of <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'caligraphy'">calligraphy</ins>.<a name="Pg_2-255" id="Pg_2-255"></a> +You see them here and there, scattered about, +all facing north, like so many black dashes in the +otherwise delicate tones of grey and white of the +soil.</p> + +<p>When we had gone some miles on this flat, +hard stretch of ground, where the heat was +terrible, we had to make a detour round a large +marsh. Then beyond it stood five parallel banks +of sand, 25 feet high, with horizontal layers of +half-formed stone up to half the height of the +dunes. The dunes were about 200 yards apart.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we arrived at Warmal, where +water seemed plentiful and good. Here too, as +in the centre of most villages and towns of +Persia, a pond of stagnant filthy water could be +seen. The pond at Warmal was of unusually +ample proportions and extended through the +whole length of the village, which was built on +both sides of this dirty pond. Numerous canals +branched off from this main reservoir, and in +fact, had one had a little imagination, one might +have named this place the Venice of Sistan. At +sunset swarms of mosquitoes rose buzzing from +the putrid water, but from a picturesque point of +view the effect of the buildings reflected in the +yellow-greenish water was quite pretty.</p> + +<p>To facilitate transit from one side of the +village to the other, a primitive bridge of earth +had been constructed across the pond, but as the +central portion of it was under water it was +necessary to remove one's foot-gear in order to +make use of the convenience.</p> + +<p>Characteristic of Warmal were the quaint<a name="Pg_2-256" id="Pg_2-256"></a> +balconies or terraces, in shape either quadrangular +or rectangular, that were attached to or +in close proximity of each house. They were +raised platforms of mud from 2 to 4 feet above +the ground, with a balustrade of sun-burnt +bricks. On these terraces the natives seek +refuge during the summer nights to avoid being +suffocated by the stifling heat inside their houses.</p> + +<p>A difference in the construction and architecture +of some of the roofs of the houses could +be noted here. The roofs were oblong instead +of perfectly circular, and when one examined +how the bricks were laid it seemed extraordinary +that the vaults stood up at all. These were the +only roofs in Persia I had seen constructed on +this particular principle.</p> + +<p>The bricks were laid round the vaults for two-thirds +of the roof at an angle of 45° and the +other third in a vertical position. There was +the usual upper central aperture and occasionally +one or two side ones.</p> + +<p>The natives were very civil and obliging, and +as usual they all crowded round to converse.</p> + +<p>"Sahib," said one old man, "you must come +to settle here."</p> + +<p>"Why should I settle here?"</p> + +<p>"It is very cheap to build houses at Warmal."</p> + +<p>"How much does it cost to build a house?"</p> + +<p>"Come and see and you will tell me whether +you can build a house cheaper in your country."</p> + +<p>He took me to a spacious new residence, +14 feet by 14 feet inside, and 18 feet high.</p> + +<p>"It is a fine house, is it not, Sahib?"<a name="Pg_2-257" id="Pg_2-257"></a></p> + +<p>"Yes, very fine."</p> + +<p>"It cost me exactly two tomans, four krans +(about nine shillings) to build it, as it stands."</p> + +<p>Enumerating the various items of expenditure +on the tips of his fingers:—"Sun-baked bricks +1 kran (5<i>d.</i>) per thousand," he continued; +"carpenter 1 kran a day for 5 days, and mason +1 kran a day. The people who helped were not +paid as they were relations!"</p> + +<p>The dome of this house was very scientifically +constructed, as can be seen by the diagram, and +formed a very strong vault. To make these +vaults, four workmen begin at the four corners of +the quadrangular base to lay bricks in successively +enlarging concentric arcs of a circle, +each higher than the previous one, till each +section meets the two side ones. The small +portion that remains above is filled in with +bricks, laid transversely, and these vaults are +really of remarkable strength.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-057.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-057_th.jpg" alt="Vault, shewing how Bricks are laid." title="Vault, shewing how Bricks are laid." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Vault, shewing how Bricks are laid.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-058.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-058_th.jpg" alt="Semi-Spherical Roof, shewing how Bricks are laid." title="Semi-Spherical Roof, shewing how Bricks are laid." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Semi-Spherical Roof, shewing how Bricks are laid.</p> + +<p>I have seen some built on this principle, and +several centuries old, standing in good preservation +and as good as new.</p> + +<p>The type of natives was quite different +again from that in other places already visited, +and was most interesting. The men, like most<a name="Pg_2-258" id="Pg_2-258"></a> +men of the desert, had elongated faces, with +long, regular noses, slightly convex and somewhat +drooping. The nostrils were rather +swollen and lacking character, and not sharply +cut. At the bridge the nose was very narrow, +but broad in its lower portion and quite rounded, +which looked better in profile than full face. The +nostrils drooped considerably towards the point +of the nose and were high up where joining the +cheek. The faces of these fellows formed a long +smooth oval with no marked cheek-bones and +vivid, dark, intelligent eyes, small but well-open, +showing the entire iris. The lips were the most +defective part of their faces, being unduly prominent, +thick and coarsely-shaped.</p> + +<p>The hair grew in a very normal way on their +faces, and they possessed very good arched eyebrows, +slightly coarse but well-defined, and in +most cases meeting at the root of the nose. In +fully-formed men the beard was thick and curly, +but did not grow to any great length. On the +skull the hair was jet-black and was soaked in +oil, so that it had the appearance or being +perfectly straight.</p> + +<p>Ample trousers, the usual long shirt and Afghan +boots (which are not unlike European military +boots), made up the attire of the masculine +members of the community.</p> + +<p>The women had, on a smaller scale, very +similar features to those of the men, and at a +distance their oval faces appeared quite handsome, +but on a closer inspection the lineaments +were much too elongated to be attractive. They<a name="Pg_2-259" id="Pg_2-259"></a> +had a somewhat pulled appearance. Both men and +women were tall, slender and of very wiry build.</p> + +<p>After sunset the women, with their heads +wrapped up in a sort of white chudder, thrown +gracefully behind the shoulders and reaching +down to the feet, began to prowl about in a +great state of excitement, carrying big balls of +flour paste and small wicker work plates, like +shields, covered over by a cloth. They lighted +a big fire in one of the small domed ovens, and +after beating the paste on the wicker shields till +it had spread into a thin layer, they quickly took +it up with their hands and, kneeling over the +blazing furnace, stuck the paste against the roof +of the oven. They used long leather gloves for +the purpose. While being baked the bread was +constantly sprinkled with water from a bowl +close at hand.</p> + +<p>Nearly each house has its own outer oven, but +the one I was near seemed to be used by several +families, judging by a string of clamouring +women who impatiently—and did they not let the +others know how impatiently!—waited with +all necessaries in hand to bake bread for their +men. The respective husbands and sons squatted +around on their heels, languidly smoking their +pipes and urging their women to be quick. A +deal of good-natured chaff seemed to take place +during this daily operation, but the women +were quite in earnest and took themselves and +the process very seriously. They seemed much +concerned if one piece got too much burnt or +another not enough.<a name="Pg_2-260" id="Pg_2-260"></a></p> + +<p>To the east by south-east of Warmal, about a +mile and a half off, were four semi-spherical +sand mounts standing prominent against the sky-line, +and a great number of sand hills of confused +formation. The several sand-banks which I had +observed in the morning on our march to this +place extended to a great length towards the +east, and were a great protection to Warmal +against the periodic northerly winds of the +summer. Hence the lack here of the familiar +wind-catchers and wind-protectors, found further +north, the sight of which one missed on the +roof tops after having become accustomed to +Sher-i-Nasrya and adjoining villages where no +roof was without one. Here there were only +one or two wind-catchers visible on the roofs +of the few two-storeyed houses of the richer +folks.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-059.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-059_th.jpg" alt="Sher-i-Rustam. (Rustam's City.)" title="Sher-i-Rustam. (Rustam's City.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Sher-i-Rustam.</span> (Rustam's City.)</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-060.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-060_th.jpg" alt="The Stable of Rustam's Legendary Horse." title="The Stable of Rustam's Legendary Horse." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Stable of Rustam's Legendary Horse.</p> + +<p>Another characteristic of dwellings in Warmal +was that over each front door there was a neat +little fowl-house, subdivided into a number of +square compartments. The place was simply +swarming with chickens.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-261" id="Pg_2-261"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXVI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sand accumulations—A round tower—Mahommed Raza Chah—A +burial ground—Rustam's city—An ancient canal—Rustam's +house—The Persian hero's favourite room—A +store room—Reception hall—The city wall—Where +Rustam's son was impaled—The stable of Rustam's gigantic +horse—More dry canals—An immense graveyard—Sand +and its ways—A probable buried city—A land-mark—Sadek's +ways—A glorious sunset—Girdi—Beluch greeting.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Warmal</span> (altitude 2,100 feet) was left at 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> +on the 12th. We skirted extensive sand accumulations, +high to the north, lower towards the +south. The under portion of these deposits had +become semi-petrified up to a height varying from +20 feet to 50 feet in proportion to the loftiness +of the hills themselves. We were travelling in +a south-east direction along these sand banks cut +abruptly vertically, and when we left them and +turned due south across a flat bay in the desert +there were sand-hills to the east and west about +one mile apart.</p> + +<p>At the most northern end of the western +range a round tower could be seen on the +summit of a hillock. Having crossed over the +low hill range before us we descended into +a long, flat, sandy stretch with tamarisk shrubs +in abundance. In an arc of a circle from north<a name="Pg_2-262" id="Pg_2-262"></a> +to south there extended sand accumulations in +various guises, the highest being some lofty +conical hills due east of our course. To the +west in the distance we were encircled by the +Patang Kuh and the Mukh Surk ranges, which +also extended from north to south.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-061.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-061_th.jpg" alt="The Gate of Rustam's City, as seen from Rustam's House." title="The Gate of Rustam's City, as seen from Rustam's House." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">The Gate of Rustam's City</span>, as seen from Rustam's House.</p> + +<p>Two farsakhs (eight miles) brought us to the +British Consular Postal Station of Mahommed +Raza Chah, a mud structure of two rooms and +an ante-room between. One room was full of +provisions, the other accommodated the three +postal <i>sawars</i> (riders). Twelve holes had been +dug in search of water, but only two had been +successful. One of the sawars, a Beluch, on a +<i>jumbaz</i> camel, was just coming in with the +post, and he was a very picturesque figure in his +white flowing robes and turban over the curly +long hair hanging upon his shoulders. One +mile off, six or seven more deep holes had been +bored for water, but with no success. Tamarisk +was plentiful.</p> + +<p>We were now getting near the ruins of +Sher-i-Rustam or Sher-i-Sukhta, the city of +Rustam, the Persian hero. North-east of it +one came first to a ruined tower, then to a burial +ground with single graves and graves in sets of +two and three, very similar in shape to those we +had seen on the Kuh-i-Kwajah. These, too, +were above ground, but were made of mud +instead of stone. Most of the graves had been +broken through. The graveyard was situated +on a sand hillock.</p> + +<p>In the distance, to the east and south-east of<a name="Pg_2-263" id="Pg_2-263"></a> +Rustam's city, there spread from the north a +long stretch of ruins, which probably were part +of the continuation of the great Zaidan. A +number of towers—as many as six being counted +in a line—and a high wall could be perceived +still standing. This must evidently have been a +fort, and had what appeared to be the wall of a +tower at its north-west end. Other extensive +ruins could just be observed further south-east, +and also to the south-west, where a high tower +stood prominent against the sky.</p> + +<p>When close to Rustam's city we went through +a walled oblique-angled parallelogram enclosing +a tower. A great portion of the wall had +collapsed, but it appeared to have been an +outpost north of the city.</p> + +<p>The next thing was an ancient dry canal +which came from the east by south-east, and we +then found ourselves before Rustam's abode. +The photograph given in the illustration was +taken as we approached the city and gives a +good idea of the place as it appeared beyond the +foreground of sand and salt. The place was in +most wonderful preservation considering its age. +There were four high towers to the north, the +two central towers which protected the city gate +being close together and more massive than the +corner ones, which were circular and tapering +towards the summit. The wall of the city was +castellated and stood some 30 feet high. The +city gate, protected by an outer screen, was to +the east, and was two-storeyed. It led directly +into the main street of the city.<a name="Pg_2-264" id="Pg_2-264"></a></p> + +<p>I cannot do better than enumerate the characteristics +of the city in the order in which I +noticed them on my visit to it. A path, like a +narrow platform, was visible all round half-way +up inside the wall, as well as another on the top +which gave access from one tower to another. +There were no steps to reach the summit of the +towers, but merely inclined planes.</p> + +<p>On entering the city gate—the only one—one +came at once upon Rustam's palace—a three-tiered +domed structure with a great many lower +annexes on its western and southern sides. A +wall adjoining the city gate enclosed Rustam's +quarters, and had a large entrance cut into it +leading to the dwelling. The various floors +were reached by a series of tunnelled passages on +inclined planes. Rustam's favourite room was +said to have been the top one, represented in the +photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-266">266</a>, where the outside of +the two top storeys of the building can be seen.</p> + +<p>The domed room was well preserved, and had +a sort of raised portion to sit upon. The ceiling +was nicely ornamented with a frieze and a design +of inverted angles. The room had four windows, +and a number of slits in the north wall for +ventilating purposes. It was a regular look-out +house, commanding a fine view all round above +the city wall of the great expanse of desert with +its ancient cities to the east, and distant blue +mountains to the west. There were a number +of receptacles, some of which had been used for +burning lights, and five doors leading into other +rooms. These rooms, however, were not so well<a name="Pg_2-265" id="Pg_2-265"></a> +preserved—in fact, they had mostly collapsed, +their side walls alone remaining. No wood had +been used in the construction of the building +and all the ceilings were vaulted.</p> + +<p>Rustam's "compound," to use the handy +word of the east, occupied about one-quarter of +the area of the town and filled the entire south-east +corner. Besides the higher building it +contained a great many side structures, with +domes, unfortunately, only half-standing, and +showing the same peculiarity as all the other +domes in the city, <i>i.e.</i>, they had all collapsed on +the north side while the southern part was +preserved. In the photograph facing page <a href="#Pg_2-268">268</a> this +is shown very clearly. This was, of course, due +to the potent northerly winds. Rustam's tall +house and high walled enclosures can be seen in +this photograph, some semi-collapsed domes of +great proportions showing just above the high +enclosing wall.</p> + +<p>A spacious court commanded by a raised +passage from north to south—evidently for +soldiers to patrol upon—was within the enclosure, +and, in fact, Rustam's premises formed a regular +strong citadel within the city.</p> + +<p>On the ground floor, now considerably below +the level of the street outside, was a long room, +like a store-room. In the north wall it had +a most wonderful arrangement of ventilating +chambers, which made the room deliciously cool. +These contrivances were like slits in the wall, +with boxed-in channels, where a great draught +was set up by the natural inflow and outflow of<a name="Pg_2-266" id="Pg_2-266"></a> +cooler and hotter air from above and under +ground, and from in and out of the sun. A +great many receptacles could be noticed in the +lower portion of the wall, and also some low +mangers, as if sheep had been kept here to +supply meat for the inmates of the citadel in +time of siege.</p> + +<p>Next to this, with an entrance on the main +street, was Rustam's reception hall—a great big +room with domes no less than +18 feet high inside, but now +fallen through in two places. +There were doors on the south +and north, and eleven receptacles +specially constructed for lamps. +These receptacles were rather +quaint in their simple design.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-062.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-062_th.jpg" alt="receptacle for light." title="receptacle for light." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">receptacle for light.</p> + +<p>All round Rustam's palace the +city wall was double, and strengthened +with outside battlements. +The same thing was noticeable in +two portions of the city wall to the west and south +sides. The city wall was irregular in shape, and +impressed one as having been built at various +epochs, and the city had the appearance of having +been enlarged in comparatively recent times. +There was a moat outside the wall, but in many +places it had got filled up with sand. A glance +at the plan which I drew of the city will give +an idea of its shape.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-063.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-063_th.jpg" alt="The Remains of the Two Upper Storeys of Rustam's House." title="The Remains of the Two Upper Storeys of Rustam's House." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Remains of the Two Upper Storeys of Rustam's House.</p> + +<p>On the north side of the main street, opposite +Rustam's house, was a large stable, unroofed, and +showing in the wall a number of mangers, which<a name="Pg_2-267" id="Pg_2-267"></a> +appeared as if a large number of horses had been +kept.</p> + +<p>Besides these there were in the western portion +of the city quantities of domed roofs, very +small, a few still perfect, but mostly fallen in on +the northern side. The houses directly under the +shelter of the northern wall were in the best +preservation, and many of them were still almost +entirely above ground. They were quadrangular +or rectangular in shape, made of mud, and with +a low door on the south side. The larger ones +had ventilating channels with perforated slits in +the north wall, like those in Rustam's store-room, +but all the houses were extremely small—an +average of 12 feet by 12 feet.</p> + +<p>In the southern portion of the city, where +exposed to the wind, the dwellings were deep-buried +in sand, and hardly more than the domes +remained above ground. There were, however, +one or two higher buildings, presumably some +of the better dwellings inhabited by Rustam's +officers. A portion of the south walls, which, +curiously enough, had quadrangular towers instead +of tapering circular ones, had collapsed, and +so had the corresponding portion of the north wall.</p> + +<p>The city wall was of great interest, and even +on the west side, where it was of less strength, +was constructed in successive tiers, each of less +than a man's height, and each with a path extending +all along so that it could be remanned +continuously in time of attack. When one man +of the higher platform fell another could replace +him immediately from the platform directly<a name="Pg_2-268" id="Pg_2-268"></a> +below. The towers were much higher than the +wall.</p> + +<p>The city gate was of great strength the two +front towers being strengthened inwardly by a +third quadrangular tower. A raised block under +the gateway was said to be the execution place.</p> + +<p>This city, historians declare, was destroyed by +Bahram, who caused it to be burnt, but there is +no evidence whatever in the buildings to show +that a conflagration ever occurred in this place +at all. In fact, it is rather difficult to understand +how buildings entirely of mud could be burned. +The city, it is said, was abandoned only about a +century ago, when the Sarbandi entered it by +treachery and drove out the Rais tribe.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-064.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-064_th.jpg" alt="Rustam's City, showing Rustam's House in Citadel, also domed roofs blown in from the North." title="Rustam's City, showing Rustam's House in Citadel, also domed roofs blown in from the North." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Rustam's City</span>, showing Rustam's House in Citadel, also domed roofs blown in from the North.</p> + +<p>A few hundred feet to the south outside +the city wall are the remains of the stable of +Rustam's legendary gigantic horse. Part of the +high wall still stands up on the top of the +section of a vault, but the greater portion of +the building, which was evidently of great proportions, +is now buried in sand. The exact +spot is pointed out where the manger stood, and +so is the point where the heel ropes of this +famous horse were tied. This circumstance misled +one traveller into stating in 1872 that "two +hills, one mile apart to the south-west, denoted +the places where the manger and the spot where +the head of this famous horse were tied." +This error has been copied faithfully by subsequent +travellers, including very recent ones (see +<i>Journal of the Royal Geographical Society</i>, February, +1902, page 142).<a name="Pg_2-269" id="Pg_2-269"></a></p> + +<p>There seemed little doubt that the huge +building, of which the wall reproduced in the +illustration made part, was a stable, and that it +must have been of special importance could be +seen by the elaborate cross pattern decorations +on its outer face. The fragment of the wall +stands over 50 feet high, and to all appearance +some twenty more feet of it are underground, +buried by the sand. It had strong supports at +its base.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-065.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-065_th.jpg" alt="Untitled illustration." title="Untitled illustration." /></a></p> + +<p>The stable was most peculiarly shaped, ending +in a sharp point at one end.</p> + +<p>Another dry canal was noticeable to the +west of the ruins which went from south to +north, with a branch canal going due west. +North-west and west were to be seen other +ruined cities, one of which, with two high +quadrangular towers, was approximately three +miles distant. To the west on two hills were +fortresses, but between these and Rustam's city +lay an immense graveyard (about one mile +from Sher-i-Rustam), with graves above ground—mainly +single ones, but also a few family ones +in adjoining compartments.</p> + +<p>As we went along due west another ruined<a name="Pg_2-270" id="Pg_2-270"></a> +city was pointed out, Zorap, a very ancient +place, where Bahram is said to have impaled the +body of Firamurz, Rustam's son.</p> + +<p>We crossed two more dry canals of some +magnitude, running parallel, which showed that +in former days this now barren part of Sistan +must have been under flourishing cultivation. +In fact, further on we came upon traces of +houses and of extensive irrigation, the soil having +quite a different appearance to the usual <i>lut</i> +where left untouched by human tools.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-066.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-066_th.jpg" alt="Plan of Sher-i-Rustam." title="Plan of Sher-i-Rustam." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Plan of Sher-i-Rustam.</p> + +<p>We then came across what at first seemed a +confused commotion of sand and mud, but its +formation was very curious, and looked as if it +covered an underlying city of great size. The +surface sand seemed to reproduce to a certain +extent the form of the structures that were +down below, such as quadrangular buildings, +walls, domes, etc. It was not the natural formation +of sand on a natural ground. In one +particular place a whole city wall with towers +could be traced, just showing above ground, so +perfectly rectangular that although covered by +sand it would seem certain that a fortress must +be buried under this spot.</p> + +<p>All around these particular suspected buried +cities the sand is absolutely flat, and there would +be no other plausible reason for this most extraordinary +irregular accumulation of sand reproducing +forms of walls, domes and towers against +all the general rules of local sand accumulations, +unless such obstacles existed below to compel +the sand to accumulate in resemblance to them.<a name="Pg_2-271" id="Pg_2-271"></a> +This theory is strengthened too by the fact that, +here and there, some of the higher buildings +actually may be seen to project above ground. +The sand mixed with salt had, on getting wet, +become solid mud, baked hard by the sun.</p> + +<p>Anybody interested in sand and its movements, +its ways and process of accumulation, +could not do better than take a trip to this part +of Sistan. Little as one may care about sand, +one is bound to get interested in its ways, and +one point in its favour is that with a certain +amount of logic and observation one can always +understand why it has assumed a certain formation +rather than another—a pleasing feature not +always existing in all geological formations of +the scenery one goes through.</p> + +<p>The great expanse of irregular surface soil, +with its innumerable obstacles and undulations, +was, of course, bound to give curious results in +the sand accumulations south of it, where the +sand could deposit itself in a more undisturbed +fashion and was affected by purely natural +causes. Of course, sand hills do not accumulate +in the flat desert unless some obstacle—a mere +pebble, a tamarisk shrub, a ridge, or a stone, is +the primary cause of the accumulation. In the +present case, I think the greater number of +sand hills had been caused by tamarisk shrubs +arresting the sand along its flight southwards.</p> + +<p>To enumerate and analyse each sand hill—there +were thousands and thousands—would +take volumes. I will limit myself to the +various most characteristic types of which I<a name="Pg_2-272" id="Pg_2-272"></a> +give diagrams. The absolutely conical type +was here less noticeable, being too much exposed +to the wind, which gradually corroded one side of +each hill more than the other.</p> + +<p>Whatever their shape, the highest point of +the sand hills was in any case always to the +north-east, the lower to the south-west. As can +be seen by the diagram there were single hills +and composite ones; there were well-rounded +hills, semi-spherical hills, and then came the sand +dunes, such as those on the right of our track, +like long parallel walls of sand extending for +great distances from east to west.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-067.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-067_th.jpg" alt="View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (West portion of City under the lee of wall.)" title="View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (West portion of City under the lee of wall.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House.</span> (West portion of City under the lee of wall.)</p> + +<p>One sand hill, 80 feet high, quite semi-spherical, +and with a solitary tamarisk tree on its +top, rising some 40 feet above all the others, was +quite a landmark along this route. It marked a +point from which to the east of our track we +found more uniformity in the shape of the sand +mounds, which were lower and all semi-spherical. +To the west of the track, curiously enough, there +were hardly any sand hills at all,—but this was +due, I think, to the fact that tamarisk shrubs +did not seem to flourish on the latter side, and +therefore did not cause the sand to accumulate.</p> + +<p>Several miles further, however, at a spot +protected by high sand dunes, tamarisk trees were +found growing, some being 4 to 6 feet high, and +seeming quite luxuriant after the usual desert +shrubs which hardly ever rise above two to three +feet.</p> + +<p>Sadek had purchased at Warmal two big +bottles of milk for my use, but as we had found<a name="Pg_2-273" id="Pg_2-273"></a> +no good water on the way and the heat of the +sun was great, he could not resist the temptation, +and had drunk it all. When I claimed it he +professed that my cats had stolen it. A long +jolting ride on the jumbaz camel produced the +marvellous result that, although the cats had +drunk the milk, Sadek himself was attacked by +indigestion caused by it. He seemed to suffer +internal agony, and lay on his camel's hump +doubled up with pain. He felt so very ill that +he requested me to take him on my camel, and +to let him exchange places with my driver. To +my sorrow I consented.</p> + +<p>In a moment of temporary relief from the +aching of his digestive organs he entered into +one of his favourite geographical discussions. +Having for the twentieth time eradicated from +his brain the notion that London and Russia +were not suburbs of Bombay, he now wanted to +know whether <i>Yanki-dunia</i> (by which glorified +name the Persians call the United States of +America) were inside the "walls" of London +city or outside!</p> + +<p>He had an idea that the earth was flat, and +that London, Bombay and Russia were together +on the extreme edge of it. The stars he believed +to be lighted up nightly, as one would candles or +paraffin lamps. Fortunately, while explaining to +me his extraordinary theory of how it was +that the moon never appeared alike on two +successive nights, he was again seized with +another fearful attack, and tumbled off the +camel.<a name="Pg_2-274" id="Pg_2-274"></a></p> + +<p>Sadek was most unfortunate with animals. +He was hated by them all. When he went +near horses they would kick, buck and neigh as +if a wolf had been at hand; mules stampeded at +his sight; cats bolted as if he were about to +beat them; and camels were restless and made +most fearful noises of disapproval and distress at +his approach. When he tried to get on and off, +the kneeling camel would suddenly spring up +again, causing him to fall, and when he did get +on the saddle the vicious brutes would assume a +most unusual and uncomfortable jerky motion, +which bumped him to such an extent that he +could not stand it long, and had to get off. The +animals evidently did it purposely to get rid of +him, for when I got on any of them they went +beautifully. Hence, whenever Sadek wished to +ride comfortably he always requested to change +seats with my driver, who occupied the front +seat on the hump of my camel.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-068.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-068_th.jpg" alt="View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (South-east section of City.)" title="View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House. (South-east section of City.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">View of Sher-i-Rustam from Rustam's House.</span> (South-east section of City.)</p> + +<p>We had a glorious sunset on that evening, not +unlike an aurora borealis, in brilliant rays of light +radiating from a central point. The sun had +already disappeared behind the blue mountain +chain, and each bright vermilion ray had like a +fish bone or like a peacock's feather, myriads of +cross off-shoots in the shape of lighter sprays of +light. There was a brilliant yellow glow which +tinted the blue sky and made it appear of various +gradations, from bright yellow at the lower +portion to various delicate shades of green in the +centre, blending again into a pure deep cobalt +blue high up in the sky, and on this glorious<a name="Pg_2-275" id="Pg_2-275"></a> +background the feathery vermilion sprays shot +up to half way across the celestial vault. Other +smaller sprays of vivid yellow light flared up in a +crescent nearer the mountain edge.</p> + +<p>It was quite a glorious sight, unimpeded by +the grand spread of sand in the foreground and a +patch or two of humble tamarisks.</p> + +<p>The rapidity with which night descends upon +the desert, is, as we noticed several times, quite +amazing. There was hardly any twilight at all. +In a few seconds this beautiful spectacle vanished +as by enchantment, and was converted into a +most mournful sight. The vermilion feathery +sprays, now deprived of the sun's light upon them, +were converted into so many gigantic black +feathers—of rather funereal appearance—and the +emerald green sky became of a dead leaden white. +The deep blue, fringed with red and yellow, of +the radiant mountains had now turned into a +sombre, blackish-grey.</p> + +<p>About four miles before reaching Girdi a track +branches off, which avoids that place altogether, +and rejoins the track again one mile south of +Girdi, thus saving a considerable detour.</p> + +<p>Our march that day had been from Warmal to +Mahommed Raza-Chah (altitude 2,100 feet), +eight miles, and from that place to Girdi-chah, +twenty-eight miles. The track between the two +latter stations was perfectly level, and on <i>jumbaz</i> +camels going at a good pace the journey had +occupied eight hours and a half.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Girdi (altitude 2,200 feet), the +Beluch <i>sawar</i> whom I had taken as guide from<a name="Pg_2-276" id="Pg_2-276"></a> +Mahommed Raza Chah, and my Beluch driver +had a most touching scene on meeting some +Beluch of a caravan travelling in the opposite +direction to mine and camping at Girdi for the +night.</p> + +<p>The men hastily dismounted from their camels, +put their heads together and pressed each the +other's right hand, holding it on the heart.</p> + +<p>"It is my brother!" cried my camel man, +and then followed another outburst of effusion +on the brother's part, who seized my hand in +both his and shook it heartily for a considerable +time. The others followed suit.</p> + +<p>There is nothing that an Afghan or a Beluch +likes better than a good hearty hand-shake.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-277" id="Pg_2-277"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXVII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Girdi-chah, a desolate spot—Its renowned water—Post-houses +and Persian Customs soldiers—Nawar-chah and its well—The +salt river Shela—Its course—Beautiful colours in salt +crystals—Tamarisks—The Kuh-i-Malek-Siah—The loftiest +mountain—Afghans—Hormak, a picturesquely situated +post station—A natural pyramid of rock—Natural fortresses—The +Malek-Siah Ziarat—Where three coveted countries +meet—The hermit—The evolution of a sand hill—Parallel +sand dunes—In Beluchistan—Robat, the most north-easterly +British post.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Girdi-chah</span> (altitude 2,200 feet), a desolate spot +in a desolate region, remains impressed in the +minds of visitors merely and only for the vileness +of its water. Sadek brought me a glass of it for +inspection, and it was so thick with salt and dirt +that it resembled in colour and density a mixture +of milk and coffee. In flavour I do not know +what it was like because I would not drink it, +but I induced Sadek to try it and let me know, +and he said that it tasted like salt, sand, and bad +eggs mixed together. Unluckily, Sadek had +omitted to fill the skins with good water at +Warmal, and after our long march of 36 miles +we should have been in a bad plight, had not the +Beluch men in charge of the other caravan<a name="Pg_2-278" id="Pg_2-278"></a> +offered us some good water from their supply to +drink and cook with.</p> + +<p>The post station at Girdi has a high wall +round it, with two rooms for <i>sawars</i>, and one +adjoining for their families, and grain shop. +There are four watch towers at the corners of +the wall of sun-dried bricks, and a path on the +top to go from one tower to the other. A +canal has been cut to drain as much rain water +(the only water obtainable here) as possible into +a small pond, but the pond was nearly dry and +only had in it some filthy salt water densely +mixed with camel refuse. It was of a ghastly +green with patches of brown, and some spots of +putrefaction in circular crowns of a whitish +colour. The surface was coated with a deposit +of sand, dirt and salt.</p> + +<p>A few yards from the British Consular post-house +stood a small hut in which two Persian +Customs soldiers were stationed. They were +picturesquely attired in peaked white turbans, +long yellow coats, leather belts with powder and +bullet pouches, and various other adjuncts. They +were armed with long, old-fashioned matchlocks.</p> + +<p>These men and the postal <i>sawars</i> complained +of the terrible water—and no wonder!—but +although they seemed painfully worn and thin it +had not actually caused them any special illness +so far. They generally laid in a small supply of +better water from the well six miles off.</p> + +<p>On our way in that direction when we left the +next morning we again saw in the distance to the<a name="Pg_2-279" id="Pg_2-279"></a> +east and south-east four or five ruined cities. +Tamarisk was plentiful and grew to quite a good +height.</p> + +<p>We passed the post-house of Nawar-chah with +its well of fairly good water. The well was +some three feet in diameter and water had been +struck fifteen feet below the surface. The shelter, +with a low mud enclosure round it, was very +similar to the one at Mahommed Raza-chah.</p> + +<p>At each post-house one was generally greeted +by a Beluch cat with pointed ears, who came +out in the hopes of getting a meal, then by +picturesque, bronzed-faced Beluch <i>sawars</i>, with +luxuriant black hair and beard, and white turbans +and cloaks. This being a minor station, there +were only two <i>sawars</i> and no animals, whereas at +stations like Girdi there were a <i>duffadar</i> in charge, +four <i>sawars</i>, two attendants, two camels and two +horses.</p> + +<p>Some three miles south-east of Nawar more +ruins could be seen, a small tower and three +large square towers with north and south walls +in great part blown down, but with eastern and +western walls standing up to a great height. A +separate domed building could also be observed a +little way off.</p> + +<p>Perhaps one of the most interesting natural +sights on the journey to the Beluchistan frontier +was the great salt river—the Shela—which we +struck on that march, six miles from Nawar. It +was by far the largest river I had seen in Persia, +its channel being some 100 yards wide in places. +It came from the mountains to the south-west,<a name="Pg_2-280" id="Pg_2-280"></a> +where thick salt deposits are said to exist, and at +the point where we crossed it its course was +tortuous and the river made a sharp detour to +the south-east. All along the watercourse extensive +sediments of salt lined the edge of the +water, and higher up, near the mountains, the +water is said to be actually bridged over by salt +deposits several inches thick.</p> + +<p>Most interesting incrustations of salt were +visible under the water, especially at the side of +the stream, where, with the reverberation of the +sun's rays, most beautiful effects of colour were +obtained in the salt crystals. The following +were the colours as they appeared from the +edges of the stream downwards:—light brown, +light green, emerald green, dark green, yellow, +warm yellow, deep yellow, then the deep green +of the limpid water.</p> + +<p>The river banks on which we travelled were +about 60 feet high above the actual stream, and +owing to a huge diagonal crack across our track +we had to deviate nearly half a mile in order to +find a way where my camels could get across. +The Shela proceeds along a tortuous channel in a +south-easterly direction, enters Afghan territory, +and loses itself, as we shall see, in the south-west +Afghan desert.</p> + +<p>It is said that when, which is now but rarely, +the Hamun-Halmund is inundated, the overflow +of water from the lake so formed finds its way +by a natural channel into the Shela, which it +swells, and the joint waters flow as far as and fill +the Shela Hamun or Zirreh in Afghanistan, which<a name="Pg_2-281" id="Pg_2-281"></a> +is at a lower level than the Hamun-Halmund. +When I saw the lake in Afghanistan, however, +it was absolutely dry.</p> + +<p>The Shela river had very large pools of deep +water almost all along that part of it which is in +Sistan territory, but there was hardly any water +flowing at all, so that nowadays in dry weather +it loses itself in the sand long before reaching +the depression in Afghan territory, where, by +the great salt deposits, it is evident that a lake +may have formerly existed, but not now.</p> + +<p>After leaving the Shela we were travelling +again on the sandy <i>lut</i>, and not a blade of +vegetation of any kind could be seen. We came +to two tracks, one going south-west, the other +due south. We followed the latter. As we got +some miles further south a region of tamarisks +began, and they got bigger and bigger as we +went along. Where some shelter existed from +the north winds, the shrubs had developed into +quite big trees, some measuring as much as 20 feet +in height. For a desert, this seemed to us quite +a forest. Near the well of salt water, half way +(12 miles) between the two postal stations, the +tamarisks were quite thick.</p> + +<p>Sixteen miles from Nawar, however, some +great sand dunes, like waves of a sea, extending +from east to west, were again found, together +with undulations of sand and gravel, and here +tamarisks again became scarce. The track had +been marked with cairns of stones at the sides. +Where the wind had full sway, the long sand +banks, parallel to one another and very regular<a name="Pg_2-282" id="Pg_2-282"></a> +in their formation, appeared exactly like the +waves of a stormy ocean.</p> + +<p>The track went towards the south-west, +where one has to get round the point of +Afghanistan, which, projects west as far as +the Kuh-i-Malek-Siah (Mountains). We were +steering into what appeared at first a double row +of mountains in a mountain mass generally called +the Malek-Siah. To the west, however, on +getting nearer we could count as many as four +different ranges and two more to the east of us. +The last range, beyond all of the four western +ones, had in its S.S.W. some very high peaks +which I should roughly estimate at about eight +to ten thousand feet above the plain. Due +west there were also some high points rising +approximately from six to seven thousand feet, +and in front of these and nearest to the observer, a +low hill range. A high even-topped range, like a +whale's back, and not above 3,000 feet above the +plain, had a conical hill on the highest part +of its summit. The loftiest mountains were +observed from south to south-west, and they, +too, had a low hill barrier before them. Many +of the peaks were very sharply pointed, and +highest of all stood a strange looking three-humped +mountain (280° W.) with a deep cut +on its westerly side, and a pointed peak standing +by it.</p> + +<p>The sand under foot had given place here to +gravel and large pebbles, yellow, red, grey, +white and green, all well rounded as if they had +been rolled by water for many a mile. The<a name="Pg_2-283" id="Pg_2-283"></a> +underlying sand was cut into many channels by +the action of water. We were some four miles +off the mountainous mass. Tamarisk was scarce +and undersized.</p> + +<p>We were gradually rising on a slightly inclined +plain, and on examining the ground one could +not help thinking with what terrific force the +torrents must come down—when they do come +down—from the mountain sides which they +drain before losing themselves in the sand. +During abnormally rainy weather, no doubt, a +good deal of this drainage forms an actual stream +which goes to swell the river Shela. Its +channel comes from Hormak and flows first in a +north-easterly then in an almost due easterly +direction.</p> + +<p>We had intended stopping at Hormak, thirty-two +miles from Girdi, our previous halting place, +and we had been on the saddle from 9 in the +morning till 8.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when we came across a lot +of Afghans with their camels, and they told us that +we were on the wrong track for the post-house +and well. It was very dark and we could not +see where we were going, as the sand had +covered up the track. We were among a lot of +confused sand hills, and the high mountains stood +directly in front like a formidable black barrier, +their contour line just distinguishable against the +sky.</p> + +<p>The camel driver, who had made me discharge +the postal <i>sawar</i> guide, because he was +certain he knew the road well himself, was +now at a loss. The Afghans collected round us<a name="Pg_2-284" id="Pg_2-284"></a> +and yelled at the top of their voices that Hormak +was to the west of us, and the camel man +insisted that the post house must surely be on +the high track, on which we certainly seemed to +have got again.</p> + +<p>I had ridden ahead, and after an anxious hour +Sadek, with all the luggage, and the second camel +man arrived, and we decided to leave the track and +try our luck among the mountains to the west.</p> + +<p>Now, to find a little mud house, hidden in +some sheltered spot among rocks and hills, on +a dark night is not the easiest of matters. The +camels stumbled among the big boulders when +once we had got off the track, and we had to +dismount and walk. As luck would have it, +after going about half an hour we came to a +nice spring of water, of which in the stillness +of the night we could plainly hear the gurgling. +Guided by it, and a few feet above it in a +sheltered position, we struck the post-house.</p> + +<p>The post-house has, of course, been built +here (one mile away from the high track) +because of this spring. There is a direct track +to it which branches off the main track, about +3 miles north, but we had missed this.</p> + +<p>The night was a very cold one—we were at +3,380 feet above sea level—and we lighted a big +fire in the middle of the small mud room. As +there was no outlet for the smoke except the +door, in a few minutes the place got unbearably +hot, and I had to clear out, but Sadek and my +camel men, who were regular salamanders, seemed +to enjoy it and found it quite comfortable.<a name="Pg_2-285" id="Pg_2-285"></a></p> + +<p>There were two rooms, one occupied by the +four postal <i>sawars</i>, the other by five Persian +Customs employees. The two camels and two +horses for the postal service were kept in the mud +walled enclosure.</p> + +<p>Hormak, when the sun rose, proved to be one +of the most picturesquely situated stations on the +entire route between Sher-i-Nasrya and Nushki. +It stood on a hill of sand and gravel in the centre +of a basin of high reddish-brown mountains +which screened it all round. There was an +opening to the east which gave a glimpse of the +desert extending into Afghanistan, this station +being not far from the border.</p> + +<p>Our track was to the south-west, and wound +round between handsome mountains. A strange +high pyramid of rock stood on our way, and +the sides of the mountains, where cut by the +water, showed the interesting process of petrification +in its various stages in the strata of the +mountains. In hills of conical formation the +centre was the first to become solidified, and +where subsequent rain storms had washed away +the coating around that had not yet become +petrified curious rocky pillars were left standing +bare on the landscape.</p> + +<p>We altered our course to due south along a river +bed, and had high sand hills to our right. Now +that we were approaching Beluchistan the track +was well defined, and about 16 feet broad, with +sides marked by a row of stones. To the west +of the track were a series of high sand walls +(facing west) 300 feet high, and some most<a name="Pg_2-286" id="Pg_2-286"></a> +peculiar red, pointed, conical hills rose above +them on the east side of these walls. It was +after reaching these peculiarly coloured hills +that the track began a gradual descent. The +highest point on the track was 3,670 feet.</p> + +<p>We passed a strange mount shaped like a +mushroom, and the same formation could be +noticed on a smaller scale in many other smaller +hills, the lower portion of which had been +corroded by wind or water or both, until the +petrified centre of the hill remained like a stem +supporting a rounded cap of semi-petrified earth +above it.</p> + +<p>From the west there descended another water +channel, quite dry. We next found ourselves in +a large basin one mile across and with an outlet +to the north-east, at which spot a square castle-shaped +mountain stared us in the face. A similar +fortress, also of natural formation, was to the +south-south-west, and between these two the +Robat track was traced. Another outlet existed +to the south-east. To the west, north, east and +south-east there were a great many sand-hills, +and to the south-south-west high rugged +mountains.</p> + +<p>A strong south-westerly gale was blowing and +the sky was black and leaden with heavy clouds. +We were caught in several heavy showers as we +proceeded along a broad flat valley amid high and +much broken-up black mountains (north-west) +the innumerable sharp pointed peaks of which +resembled the teeth of a saw. At their foot +between them and our track stretched a long<a name="Pg_2-287" id="Pg_2-287"></a> +screen of sand accumulations—in this case facing +north-west instead of west, the alteration in the +direction being undoubtedly due to the effect of +the mountains on the direction of the wind.</p> + +<p>To the east there were rocks of a bright +cadmium yellow colour, some 45 feet high, with +deposits of sand and gravel on them as thick +again (45 feet). The mountains behind these +rocks showed a similar formation, the yellow +rock, however, rising to 120 feet with rock +above it of a blackish-violet colour, getting +greenish towards the top where more exposed to +the wind.</p> + +<p>The valley along which we were travelling +averaged about 200 yards wide, from the sand +hills on one side to those on the other, and was +at an incline, the eastern portion being much +lower than the western. The yellow rocks at +the side bore marks of having been subjected to +the corrosive action of water, which must occasionally +fill this gully to a great height during +torrential rains.</p> + +<p>We came to a most interesting point—the +Malek Siah Ziarat, which in theory marks the +point where the three coveted countries, <i>i.e.</i>, +Persia, Afghanistan and Beluchistan, meet. The +actual frontier, however, is on the summit of the +watershed, a short distance to the east of the +Ziarat.</p> + +<p>This Ziarat was a fine one, of the Beluch +pattern, not covered over by a building such as +those, for instance, that we had found on Kuh-i-Kwajah. +There seemed to be a fate against pho<a name="Pg_2-288" id="Pg_2-288"></a>tographing +these Ziarats. It was only under the +greatest disadvantages that I was ever able to +photograph them. On this particular occasion +I had hardly time to produce my camera before +a downpour, such as I had seldom experienced, +made it impossible to take a decent picture of it.</p> + +<p>There was a central tomb 15 feet long, of big +round white stones, supported on upright pillars +of brown and green stone, and a white marble +pillar at each end. Circular white marble slabs +were resting on the tomb itself, and a few feet +from this tomb all round was a wall, 3 feet high, +of upright pillars, of brown and green stone, +forming an oblong that measured 20 feet by +8 feet, with a walled entrance at its south-eastern +extremity. An additional wall like a crescent +protected the south-eastern end of the oblong, +and due east in a line were three stone cairns +with bundles of upright sticks fixed into them, +on which hung rags of all colours.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-069.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-069_th.jpg" alt="Plan of Kuh-i-Malek Siah Ziarat." title="Plan of Kuh-i-Malek Siah Ziarat." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter">Plan of Kuh-i-Malek Siah Ziarat.</p> + +<p>To the west of the tomb, between it and the +enclosing wall, was a great collection of long +sticks and tree branches—which must have been +brought here from a great distance—and at their<a name="Pg_2-289" id="Pg_2-289"></a> +foot offerings of all sorts, such as goat-horns, +ropes, leather bags, hair, stones, marble vessels, +and numberless pieces of cloth.</p> + +<p>In the spring of each year, I am told, the +Beluch make a pilgrimage to this Ziarat, and +deposit some very quaint little dolls made with +much symbolic anatomical detail.</p> + +<p>Extending west, in the direction of Mecca, +from the main Ziarat, were nine more stone +cairns, most of them having a <i>panache</i> of sticks +and being divided into sets of three each, with a +higher wall in the shape of crescents between. +A second wall of round stones protected the +north-west side of the Ziarat. Where it met the +entrance way into the inner wall there was a +much used sacrificial slab where sheep were +beheaded.</p> + +<p>To the north-east of the Ziarat were a number +of cairns, and a small stone shelter in which lived +a hermit. This old fanatic came out to greet us +with unintelligible howls, carrying his vessel for +alms, and a long stick to which a rag was attached. +He touched us all on the head with it, +which was meant as a blessing, and we gave him +some silver pieces, which he said he did not +want for himself, but for the Ziarat. He wore +chains like a prisoner. He appeared to be in an +advanced stage of idiocy and <i>abrutissement</i>, caused +by his lonely life in his 5 feet cubic stone cabin +among the desolate Malek-Siah mountains.</p> + +<p>Having at this place rounded the most westerly +point of the Afghan frontier we turned due east +on a tortuous but well defined track. At this<a name="Pg_2-290" id="Pg_2-290"></a> +point began the actual British road, and being +from this point under British supervision it was +well kept, and made extremely easy for camel +and horse traffic.</p> + +<p>Three miles from the Ziarat the sand hills +began to get smaller and smaller to the west, but +still remained high to the east. One was particularly +struck by the peculiar formation of the +mountains. To the west they formed a continuous +rugged, irregularly topped chain, with +sharp pointed peaks, whereas to the east we had +isolated, single domed hills all well rounded and +smooth.</p> + +<p>Where the track turns sharply south-east we +entered a vast basin with picturesque high mountains +to the south and north, and a series of single +well-rounded mounds in front of them, rising +from one to two thousand feet above the plain.</p> + +<p>On nearing Robat one finds the scenery plainly +illustrating the entire evolution of a small sand +hill into a high mountain. We have the tiny +mounds of sand, only a few inches high, +clogged round tamarisk shrubs, then further +higher and higher mounds, until they spread out +so far that two, three, or more blend together, +forming a low bank, and then banks increase to +high dunes 40 feet, 50 feet, 100 feet high. +These grow higher and higher still; the sand +below is compressed by the weight above; water +exercises its petrifying influence from the base +upward, and from the centre outward, and more +sand accumulates on the upper surface until they +become actual hill ranges of a compact shale-like<a name="Pg_2-291" id="Pg_2-291"></a> +formation in horizontal strata, each stratum being +slightly less hardened than the underlying, and +each showing plainly defined the actions of water +and sun to which they were exposed when +uppermost. Then, above these hills, further +accumulations have formed, which solidifying in +turn have in the course of centuries become +high mountains. They have, however, never +lost the characteristics of the little primary +accumulation against the humble tamarisk, to +which they still bear, on a large scale, the closest +resemblance.</p> + +<p>We passed a great many parallel sand dunes, +100 feet high, east and west of our track, and +went through a cut in one of these sand banks, +beyond which the sand hills had accumulated in +a somewhat confused fashion upon a crescent-shaped +area. They seemed of a more ancient +formation than those to the west of the track, +and had a great quantity of shingle upon them, +which gave them a black and greenish appearance, +while those to the west were of a light +brown colour. The shingle in this case, I think, +had not formed on the hillocks themselves, but +had been washed and blown down from the high +mountains to the east.</p> + +<p>We were now in the territory of Beluchistan, +and with a bounding heart—after the experience +of Persian rest-houses—we saw a nice clean +square whitewashed bungalow standing on a high +prominence under the shelter of a rugged +mountain. This was Robat, the furthermost +British post in West Beluchistan.<a name="Pg_2-292" id="Pg_2-292"></a></p> + +<p>Although still some 463 miles from the nearest +railway I looked upon this spot as the end of my +difficult travelling, and, taking into consideration +the fact that most of that distance had to be +performed across barren and practically uninhabited +country, I found that I was not far +wrong in my opinion.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-293" id="Pg_2-293"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Lahr Kuh—Robat <i>thana</i> and bungalow—Saïd Khan—Persian +and Beluch music, songs and dancing—Beluch +musical instruments—Beluch melodies, love and war songs—Comic +songs—Beluch voices—Persian melodies—Solo +songs—Ululations—Persian instruments—Castanets—Persian +and Beluch dancing—The <i>chap</i>.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">South-west</span> of Robat (at 210° bearings magnetic) +stands a fine mountain, the Lahr Kuh, and from +it descends a little stream flowing towards the +north-east. There is a large <i>thana</i> (fortified post-house) +at Robat of eight rooms and a spacious +court for horses. A shop with grain and provisions +is found here, and a post office with the +familiar black board outside on which one was +rather amused to read the usual postal notices in +the English language stuck upon it—announcing +Queen Victoria's death, notifying that the office +would be closed on such and such bank holidays, +and other public news.</p> + +<p>The quarters of the <i>Jemadar</i> and his seven +levies, of the <i>Duffadar</i> and the postmaster, were +enclosed in the high-walled <i>thana</i> with its imposing +entrance gate and four towers at the +corners. Beyond the <i>thana</i> was the old resting<a name="Pg_2-294" id="Pg_2-294"></a> +place built of stone, with six rooms, but now +rather in a tumbling-down condition.</p> + +<p>Then last, but not least, of the buildings was +the new bungalow, with a nice portico all round. +It contained four spacious, lofty rooms with well-drawing +chimneys. There were windows, but +not yet with glass in them, and this was rather +an advantage, because the air of the mountains +was pure and better than would have been the +shut-in atmosphere of a room. Each room had +a bathroom attached to it—but of course the +bath had to be brought by the traveller himself.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-070.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-070_th.jpg" alt="Saïd Khan, Duffadar and Levies at the Perso-Beluch Frontier Port of Robat." title="Saïd Khan, Duffadar and Levies at the Perso-Beluch Frontier Port of Robat." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Saïd Khan, Duffadar and Levies at the Perso-Beluch Frontier Port of Robat.</p> + +<p>This was one of two types of rest-houses which +are being built by the British Government for +travellers on the Nushki-Robat route. The +other kind was of similar architecture but with +only two rooms instead of four. These bungalows +were solidly built, well ventilated and excellent +in every way—of course in relation to +the country they were in. It was not proposed +when they were put up to compete in comfort +and <i>cuisine</i> with the Carlton Hotel in London, +that of Ritz in Paris, or the Waldorf-Astoria of +New York. They were mere rest-houses for +traders and travellers accustomed to that particular +kind of travelling, and the British Government +ought to be greatly thanked for building these +shelters at the principal halting-places on the +route. Only a few are completed yet between +Robat and Nushki, but their construction is +going ahead fast, and within the next year or so, +if I understood right, they would all be ready to +accommodate travellers. They were a great<a name="Pg_2-295" id="Pg_2-295"></a> +improvement on the old <i>thanas</i>, which, although +comfortable enough, were not always quite so +clean on account of natives using them.</p> + +<p>After travelling in Persia, where one climbs +down a good deal in one's ideas of luxury and +comfort and is glad to put up even in the most +modest hovels, it seemed to me quite the zenith +of luxury and comfort to set foot inside a real +whitewashed rest-house, with mats on the floor +and a fire blazing in a real chimney. News had +come that I should arrive that afternoon, and the +levies with the <i>Jemadar</i> in their best clothes all +turned out to receive me, which involved considerable +hand-shaking and elaborate compliments, +after which I was led into the room that had +been prepared for me.</p> + +<p>Saïd Khan, who has been employed by the +Government to look after the postal arrangements +and other political work on the Persian +side of the frontier, was also here parading with +the others, as can be seen in the illustration.</p> + +<p>Saïd Khan was a tall, intelligent, black-bearded, +fearless person, wearing a handsome black frock-coat, +a mass of gold embroidery on the chest, and +a beautiful silver-mounted sword—which, by the +way, he wore in a sensible fashion slung across +his shoulder; with his well-cut features, strong, +almost fierce mouth, finely chiselled nostrils and +eagle eyes he was quite a striking figure.</p> + +<p>The <i>Duffadar</i>, who stood on his right hand, +had a most honest and good-natured face, and he, +too, looked very smart in his uniform, cartridge +bandolier, silver-handled sword and Enfield rifle.<a name="Pg_2-296" id="Pg_2-296"></a> +His men were also armed with this rifle which, +although of old pattern, is very serviceable.</p> + +<p>With the exception of Saïd Khan, the people +represented in the illustration formed the entire +stationary male population of Robat, but some +small black tents could be seen in a gully a little +way off inhabited by nomad Beluch.</p> + +<p>On hearing that I was much interested in +music, the <i>Duffadar</i>, who was a bit of a musician +himself, arranged a concert in which all the +local talent took part. On this and many other +later occasions I heard Beluch music and singing +and saw their dancing, and as I also heard a good +deal of Persian music while in Persia I daresay a +few words upon the music and dancing of the +two countries will not be out of place. In many +ways they are akin.</p> + +<p>A large instrument called the <i>Dumbirah</i> or +<i>Dambura</i>—something like an Italian mandola—was +produced which was handsomely carved and +inlaid in silver. It had three strings, two of +which were played as bass; on the third the air +was twanged in double notes, as the thumb and +first finger are held together, the first finger +slightly forward, and an oscillation is given from +the wrist to the hand in order to sound the note +twice as it catches first in the thumb then in the +first finger. The effect obtained is similar to +that of the <i>Occalilli</i> of Honolulu, or not unlike a +mandoline, only with the Beluch instrument the +oscillations are slower.</p> + +<p>The movement of the favourite Beluch melodies +resembles that of a Neapolitan tarantella, and<a name="Pg_2-297" id="Pg_2-297"></a> +these airs are generally more lively than melodies +of most other Asiatic people. Endless variations +are made on the same air according to the +ability and temperament of the musician. The +notes of the two bass strings of the instrument +are never altered, but always give the same +accompaniment on being twanged together with +the violin string on which only the actual +melody is picked out.</p> + +<p>There is then the <i>Soroz</i>, a kind of violin +made of a half pumpkin, which forms the +sounding board, and a handle to it with four +keys and four strings. It is played with a bow +of horsehair.</p> + +<p>The other instruments in use are the <i>Seranghi</i>, +a kind of superior violin such as the two central +ones represented in the full page illustration. +It has no less than fourteen keys, is hollow and +uncovered in its upper portion, but has a skin +stretched in the lower half of its sounding case. +It is also perforated underneath and is played +with a bow called <i>gazer</i>.</p> + +<p>The <i>Rabab</i> is a larger wooden instrument of +a somewhat elongated shape, and its lower +portion is also covered by a tight sheepskin—the +remainder of the uncovered wood being +prettily inlaid with silver and bone. This +instrument is twanged with the fingers and has +eighteen <i>killi</i> or keys, twelve with metal strings +and six with gut strings.</p> + +<p>The <i>Surna</i>, or flute, is made of bamboo with +a brass funnel. The mouthpiece is very ingenious, +made of crushed cane fastened into<a name="Pg_2-298" id="Pg_2-298"></a> +a cup which is firmly applied to the lips, thus +preventing any wind escaping at the sides. It +certainly gives a very piercing sound when +played loud.</p> + +<p>The <i>Dohl</i>, or drum, was also of wood with +sheepskins drawn tight at the two ends while +wet, rolled up all round the rims of the apertures, +and kept in position by leather strips.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-071.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-071_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Musicians (at Sibi.)" title="Beluch Musicians (at Sibi.)" /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Musicians (at Sibi.)</p> + +<p>Besides these the Beluch shows much ingenuity +in improvising musical instruments to +accompany his songs, out of any article which +will give some sound, such as his rifle rod, +which he balances on a bit of string and taps +upon with the blade of his knife, or two pieces +of wood which he uses as castanets, and, failing +all these, snapping his fingers and keeping time +with the melody.</p> + +<p>There is a certain weird, barbaric charm in +Beluch melodies, and, unlike the Persian, the +Beluch possesses a very keen ear, in fact, a +thorough musical ear, even according to our +rules of harmony. To an unthoughtful European +there may indeed be a certain monotony +in Beluch melodies, but never a grating discord +which will set one's teeth on edge.</p> + +<p>Monotony in music, or rather, a repetition +of the same melody until it becomes monotonous, +is, rather than otherwise—if one comes +to think of it—a fault on the right side, for if +a melody is repeated time after time it means +that the people themselves like it and appreciate +it. There is no doubt that anybody with an +unspoilt musical ear rather fancies listening over<a name="Pg_2-299" id="Pg_2-299"></a> +and over again to a melody which appeals to +him—and we need not go as far as Beluchistan +to be convinced of this—for we ourselves have +been known to take fancies to songs of so high +a standard as <i>Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay</i>, <i>The Honeysuckle +and the Bee</i>, &c., and we hum them while +soaking in our morning tub, we whistle them as +we go down to breakfast, we strum them on the +piano after breakfast, we hear them rattled +outside by a barrel organ, as many times as there +are forthcoming pennies from windows, while +we are having lunch, we hear them pathetically +sung at afternoon parties by hired entertainers, +bands play them in the restaurants during dinner, +and we hear them in the theatres, in music halls, +and everywhere,—so that we cannot very well +blame others for the monotony of their melodies +since we largely follow the same course as +theirs.</p> + +<p>The Beluch plays and sings because it gives +him real pleasure, and he is quite carried away +by his music. Certain notes and combinations +of notes, especially such as are very +high and shrill, but in good tune, seem to go +straight to his heart, and he revels in them. +When singing, therefore, he prefers to sing in +falsetto—as high as the furthest strain of his +voice permits—and having worked himself into a +semi-dazed state gradually descends to low deep +notes, which by contrast appeal to him and not +only give balance and character to his melody +but produce quite a good harmonious effect. +The low notes, however, are never ejaculated,<a name="Pg_2-300" id="Pg_2-300"></a> +but hummed, almost buzzed, with a vibration in +the voice which is most melodious. The sound +is like an indefinite letter U.</p> + +<p>The beginning of a song is somewhat sudden +and startling, and usually too loud, as if the +singer had not properly gauged the extent of his +voice in relation to the instrumental accompaniment, +but he soon manages to get in most perfect +unison with the melody of the dambura and the +violin or other instruments, except in cases of +singers endowed with extra musical genius, when +they will go on improvising by the hour, using +the theme as a guide. They generally sing in a +minor key, with pretty refrains at the end of +each bar.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-072.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-072_th.jpg" alt="Untitled illustration." title="Untitled illustration." /></a></p> + +<p>The most common and favourite air is the +above on which elaborate variations are added.</p> + +<p>The Beluch singer seldom changes from minor +into major or from one key into another, but he +is very fond of repeating the same melody in all +the octaves within the utmost limits of the +compass of his voice. It is considered a feat in +singing to hold a note for an interminable time, +as also to go through the greater portion of the +melody without taking breath, and it really +seemed extraordinary that some of the singers +did not break a blood vessel in the process. The +eyes of the performers got so swollen and almost +shooting out of the head with holding the notes so +long, and the veins of the temples and arteries in<a name="Pg_2-301" id="Pg_2-301"></a> +the neck swelled to such an extent as to cause +serious apprehension.</p> + +<p>On one occasion I heard an improvised song +with the accompaniment of the <i>soroz</i> (violin) +only. This time—an exception in my experience—the +song was given in a deep, low, +nasal voice, each note being tremulous and held +on for several minutes in a most plaintive +manner.</p> + +<p>Some of the love songs were quite pathetic and +touching, and in the war songs, the grievances +were poured forth very plaintively with an accompaniment +of strings and drums and burst out +suddenly into fire and anger. At this point, +when the musicians were carried away by the +martial words of the song, the instrumental +accompaniment became next to diabolical. It +was very inspiriting, no doubt, and made them +feel very war-like. The din was certainly such +as might have turned any man into a fighter.</p> + +<p>Love songs, in which the singer imitated +women's voices to perfection, were really most +graceful and sad, and quite interesting were the +musical recitatives with violin accompaniments +which the Beluch render in quite a masterly +way.</p> + +<p>Then there was the comic song—quick-timed +and full of life—much too full and too comic to +appeal to a European, and so fully illustrated that +personally, I infinitely preferred the more melancholic +ones which had more music in them.</p> + +<p>Duets and trios were occasionally attempted +with quite good results, except that there always<a name="Pg_2-302" id="Pg_2-302"></a> +seemed to be a competition as to who should +start highest, and this had occasionally a grating +effect.</p> + +<p>The Beluch possess most soft musical voices, +well-rounded and graceful, quite a contrast even +in mere conversation to those of their neighbours +the Persians or the Afghans; but the character +of the Beluch songs and music is not dissimilar +from the Persian, and both betray a markedly +Arab origin. In Persian songs, too, an <i>andante</i> +movement with chorus joining in every few +bars frequently occurs, but in the Persian +chorus we generally find a liking for chromatic +diminuendos and crescendos, which are not so +frequent in Beluch music.</p> + +<p>Persian music is inspiriting. There are +certain musical notes the vibrations of which +seem to go to the heart more than others, and on +these notes the Persian musician will work his +melody. Sad love songs in a falsetto voice are +prevalent, and are sung so high that, as with +the Beluch, it makes one really quite anxious for +the safety of the singer. The notes are kept on so +long and the melody repeated so often, that the +artery and veins in the singer's neck and temples +bulge out in a most abnormal manner.</p> + +<p>There is no actual end to a Persian melody, +which terminates with the exhaustion of the +singer, or abruptly by the sign of the hearers +who get tired of it. The musicians every now +and then join in the chorus and repeat the +refrain.</p> + +<p>Tenor solo songs by boys are much ap<a name="Pg_2-303" id="Pg_2-303"></a>preciated, +and these, too, are very plaintive with +frequent scales in them and certain notes held +long at the end of each bar where the chorus +join in. These sustained notes have modulations +in them with infinitesimal fractions of tones. +Ululations with long, nasal, interminable notes +and capricious variations at the fancy of the +singer, but based on some popular theme are +also much liked by Persians.</p> + +<p>More than in anything else, however, the +Persian, like the Beluch, delights in tremulous +notes, of which he makes ample use in his +melodies.</p> + +<p>The rhythm of Persian and Beluch music is +much alike, although as far as instrumental +execution goes the Persian surpasses the Beluch, +having a greater variety in his orchestra and +the instruments being more perfectly constructed.</p> + +<p>The <i>Santurie</i>, for instance, a kind of zither, +with eighteen sets of three strings each, is a +most harmonious instrument from which beautiful +effects can be obtained by the player.</p> + +<p>The <i>thar</i>> a sort of guitar, has four keys and +is played with a plectrum, and the <i>Kermanche</i>, +<i>Cynthour</i>, <i>Tchogor</i>, <i>the Tchaminioho</i>—the latter, +a circular instrument covered by a skin, with +one metal and two gut strings, on a long metal +stand, is played with a bow;—the <i>dumbuk</i> +(drum), with only one skin pasted round its +single aperture, the lower part being solid; the +flute pure and proper, with five apertures on one +side and one on the other, on which very low<a name="Pg_2-304" id="Pg_2-304"></a> +clear notes are obtained, and a pretty tremolo,—and +other instruments of minor importance, are +all employed in Persia.</p> + +<p>The Persians are masters at playing the drum. +Most marvellous effects are obtained by them. +They hold the drum on the left leg with the left +arm resting on it, and tap it with the tips of +their fingers round its edge. For broader +notes it is struck with the palm of the hand. +Soft, gentle notes as well as the rumbling sound +in good time with the air they accompany, are +extracted from the instrument, so fast in its +vibrations as to produce a continuous sound that +one would never believe came from a drum.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-073.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-073_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Dance (at Sibi.)" title="Beluch Dance (at Sibi.)" /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Dance (at Sibi.)</p> + +<p>Metallic castanets are used both by the +Persian and Beluch in the dancing, and it is +usually the dancers—one or more boys—who +play them.</p> + +<p>Many of the songs and melodies I heard in +Persia reminded me very forcibly of Spanish +melodies, which, like these, are undoubtedly of +Arab origin.</p> + +<p>Whatever fault one may find with Persian or +Beluch music, one cannot say that the performers +do not play with an immense deal of feeling and +<i>entrain</i>—a quality (the primary one, to my +mind,) in music often lacking in musicians +nearer home, but never in Orientals.</p> + +<p>The dancing, both Persian and Beluch, is not +so interesting. It is usually executed by effeminate +long-haired boys generally dressed in a +long pleated coat with a tight belt, and wearing +a number of metal bells attached to the ankles.<a name="Pg_2-305" id="Pg_2-305"></a> +The Persian is probably the more lascivious of +the two in his movements, and, having begun +by throwing his long shock of hair backwards +twirls round gracefully enough, keeping good +time with the music. This is merely a feat of +endurance, resembling the dancing or spinning +dervishes of Egypt, and generally ends by the +dancer suddenly squatting down upon the floor +with his flowing gown fully expanded in a circle +around him. The skill of the dancer is shown +most in successive dances, such as the slow +progression by merely twisting the feet to right +and left, occasionally varied by raising one foot +directly above the other, then throwing the +head far back and the body in a strained curve, +with arms raised fluttering like a flying bird, +while the song to which he dances imitates a +nightingale.</p> + +<p>Contortions and suggestive waist movements +are much indulged in Persian dancing, as well +as throwing the body backwards with the hands +almost touching the ground behind and walking +while in this position—not unlike an exaggerated +form of the "cake-walk" of our American +cousins.</p> + +<p>Each dance is closed by the dancer throwing +himself down upon his knees in front of the +musicians, or in turn before each of the +spectators.</p> + +<p>Beluch dancing was very similar, although +much simpler. The two photographs, reproduced +in the illustrations, which I took at Sibi, +show one a row of Beluch musicians, the other<a name="Pg_2-306" id="Pg_2-306"></a> +a Beluch boy in the act of dancing a sort of +toe-and-heel dance, in which with extended arms +he gradually fluttered round, keeping time with +the music. In some of the quicker movements +he either snapped his fingers or used wooden +castanets, or held the pleated skirt of his coat +fully extended like butterfly wings. There was +very little variation to his dancing which, like +the Persian was more a feat of endurance and +speed than a graceful performance. The ankle +did most of the work.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-074.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-074_th.jpg" alt="The Beluch-Afghan Boundary Cairn and Malek-Siah Mountains in Background." title="The Beluch-Afghan Boundary Cairn and Malek-Siah Mountains in Background." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Beluch-Afghan Boundary Cairn and Malek-Siah Mountains in Background.</p> + +<p>Somewhat more wild and primitive was +the <i>chap</i> which I witnessed at a camp in north-west +Beluchistan. It consisted in swinging the +body from right to left, lifting up now one leg and +then the other, and waving the head to and fro +in a most violent manner. The Beluch get much +excited over this dance, which requires some +degree of stubborn tenacity, and the spectators +urge the dancer to continue when he shows +signs of getting tired. All superfluous clothing +is discarded in a most alarming manner at various +stages of this performance, and the arms are +flapped vigorously against the naked body which +is made to sound like a drum. The performance +is not allowed to stop until the dancer is quite +exhausted, when he simply collapses in the arms +of one of his friends. The musical accompaniment +to this dance verges on the diabolical, the +rhythm of what melody there is being interspersed +with abundant howls, yells and snapping +of fingers from the enthusiastic crowd +all round.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-307" id="Pg_2-307"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXIX" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An excellent track—A quaint rock—A salt rivulet—Laskerisha—Mahommed +Raza-chah—Beluch encampment—The +horrors of photography—Maternal love—A track to +Mirjawa—Kirtaka—Direct track to Sher-i-Nasrya—Track +to Cabul—Sand-hills—A wide river bed—A high yellow +pillar—Undulating track—Ten sharp-pointed peaks.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Robat (altitude 3,480 feet) we took the +capital road which followed a dry river bed until +we got quite away from the hills. When the +track turned south-east a beautiful view of the +Afghan desert south of the Halmund, was +obtained to the north-east, while south-south-east +(180°, bearings magnetic) stood a high peak, the +Saindak Mount. We first skirted very rugged +mountains to the south-west which were brilliant +in colour and had many peaks fluted by water +erosion. Sand-hills gradually dwindled away, +leaving long, flat-topped sand-banks invariably +facing north. To the south was quite a high +sand mountain.</p> + +<p>A quaint rock resembling a huge camel's head +could be seen to our left above a hill. Then, +six miles from Robat, sand-hills began again. +The track here lay only a few yards from the +Afghan boundary which was marked by stone<a name="Pg_2-308" id="Pg_2-308"></a> +cairns, six feet high, painted white. To the +south was a rugged chain of mountains with +low sand-hills before it, and to the north across +the Afghan border could now be plainly seen +the interesting salt deposit of God-i-Zirreh, +and another whose name I do not know. I +crossed into Afghan territory with the object of +visiting them, and a description will be found in +the next chapter.</p> + +<p>I returned into Beluchistan to the spot, 14 +miles from Robat, where a small salt rivulet +swelled by tributaries, descends from the mountains +to the south and west. When in flood this +stream, which must be enormously enlarged, +carries down a great quantity of tamarisk wood, +much of which could be seen deposited a long +distance from the water's normal banks.</p> + +<p>The road stretched in front of us in a perfectly +straight line, with neat stone borders on either side, +and one got so tired of seeing that line in front of +one's nose that one welcomed the smallest change—even +a slight ascent or a curve—in its endless, +monotonous straightness. We came by and by +to a little ascent—quite steep enough for camels. +We could have easily avoided it by leaving the +road and making a detour at the foot of the hill +close to the Afghan boundary. Some caravans +do.</p> + +<p>From the highest point of the road as we +looked back to the north-north-west we saw +behind us sand hills, that showed traces of +being still much at the mercy of the wind. +Further behind, still north-north-west, was a<a name="Pg_2-309" id="Pg_2-309"></a> +high pointed peak, and then a long blue chain +extending from south-west to north-east just +rising out of the sand mist. The highest peaks +were at the most extreme north-east point. +Then the mountains became lower and lower, +and the horizon met the flat long line of the +desert.</p> + +<p>A fine view of the Afghan desert, with its two +extensive salt deposits, can be obtained from +Laskerisha, a name given to a brackish well on +the hill side (3,590 feet) with a ditch and hollow +next to it for the convenience of camels. A +triangular unroofed shelter has been erected some +80 feet below the well on the hill slope, and +other wells have been bored close by, the water +of which is undrinkable. This was the highest +point of the road 3,590 feet, on that march. +Before reaching it we saw a castle-like structure +surmounting a peak of the mountain that we +had been following to the south; there appeared +to be actual windows in it, showing the light +through, and a track leading up to it. Unfortunately, +the sun—quite blinding—was just behind +it when I passed it, and I could not well +ascertain with my telescope whether it was a +natural formation of rock or a real ancient +fortress, nor could I get any information on the +subject from the natives, and it was too far out +of my track for me to go and visit it.</p> + +<p>On our descent on the south-east side of the +hill we came across semi-spherical sand mounds +in great numbers; the mountains on our right +were apparently of volcanic formation. They<a name="Pg_2-310" id="Pg_2-310"></a> +were very highly coloured, generally bright red +with green summits; then there were mountains +deep red all over, and further on stood one green +from top to bottom, although there was not a +thread of vegetation upon it. At the foot of the +mountains on the edge of the desert were a few +dried up tamarisks.</p> + +<p>We stopped at Mahommed Raza-chah, where +there are five wells, three of good water and two +brackish ones. There was a mere mud <i>thana</i> at +this place, but wood and bricks were being +brought up to construct a bungalow.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-075.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-075_th.jpg" alt="Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan Desert." title="Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan Desert." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Rest House at Mahommed Raza Chah overlooking Afghan Desert.</p> + +<p>A number of Beluch were encamped here in +their little black tents, hardly five feet high, and +with one side of the tent raised up on two sticks. +The interior of the tents seemed to be a mass of +rags and dirt, among which some primitive +implements, such as a wooden pestle and mortar, +for pounding wheat, and a bowl or two, could be +detected. Otherwise they were most miserable. +The tents seemed mostly in the possession of +women, children and decrepit old men, the +younger folks seeking a livelier life further afield. +It is often in the most humble places, however, +that one finds unexpected charms.</p> + +<p>On the alarm being given that an intruding +stranger was at hand the women hastily shut up +all the tents, and a picturesque old fellow stalked +me about, seeming to become extremely anxious +when I was photographing, a proceeding which +he did not quite understand. A young man on +a camel was coming towards us singing, and +inside one of the tents I heard a great commotion<a name="Pg_2-311" id="Pg_2-311"></a> +evidently caused by the approaching voice. An +old woman, in fact, peeped out from a fissure +and gave a powerful squeak. She leapt out +excitedly, nearly tearing down the whole tent +in the process, and, crying bitter tears, rushed +with extended arms towards the camel man.</p> + +<p>The young fellow having hastily dismounted, +a most touching scene of motherly affection +ensued, for, as the old man explained to me, he +was her son. The poor shrivelled creature threw +her arms around his neck and kissed him fondly, +first on one cheek and then upon the other, after +which, having affectionately taken his face +between her hands, she impressed another long, +long kiss in the middle of his forehead. She +caressed him to her heart's content, the boy +looking quite pathetically graceful and reverent +under the circumstances. A similar treatment +was meted out to him by his sisters, and they all +shed tears of delight at seeing one another. +Family affection, as well as affection among +tribesmen, is indeed extraordinarily effusive and +genuine among Beluch of all classes.</p> + +<p>The women I saw at this camp wore a sort +of long shirt with a sash, and had broad bead +and shell bracelets round their wrists.</p> + +<p>Mahommed Raza-chah was 3,820 feet above +sea level, and the track from this point went +south east (to 110° bearings magnetic). There +was a <i>duffadar</i> in charge of two stations with +four <i>sawars</i> and four camels. It was all one +could do upon this road to find anything of +some interest, barring the geological formation<a name="Pg_2-312" id="Pg_2-312"></a> +of the country and the movement of the sand, +which rather began to pall upon one after +months of nothing else, and when one came +across a patch of tamarisk trees a little taller +than usual one could not take one's eyes off +them, they seemed such interesting objects in +the monotonous marches.</p> + +<p>Twelve miles from Mahommed Raza, tamarisks +seemed to flourish, for water was to be +found some twenty feet below the surface. A +well had been bored for the use of caravans, and +the water was quite good. The track was somewhat +undulating in this portion of the journey, +rising, however, to no greater elevation than +100 feet, but quite steep enough for camels.</p> + +<p>About eleven miles from Mahommed Raza-chah, +a track diverged to Mirjawa. One +noticed on the mountains to our right (south-west) +a superabundance of tamarisk, the cause +of this abnormal vegetation being undoubtedly +long streaks of moisture filtering through the +sand. No actual water, however, was visible +flowing, not even along a deep channel which +bore the marks of having been cut by it, and +in which salt deposits were to be seen on the +surface soil.</p> + +<p>Kirtaka, the next rest-house, was by no means +an attractive place, but was interesting, inasmuch +as, besides the track over the mountains leading +to Mirjawa, a direct route went from this point +to Sher-i-Nasrya in Sistan, which city could be +reached in three days, by crossing Afghan territory, +and cutting off the long westerly detour<a name="Pg_2-313" id="Pg_2-313"></a> +via Robat—the Malek-Siah; and yet another +track to Cabul, the capital of Afghanistan, +which could be reached in twenty days. The +latter track was said to be absolutely waterless +for the first three days' march, no wells and +therefore no villages being found, but after +three days, on striking the Halmund, plenty +of water, fuel, and food could be obtained, and +plenty of people were to be met with.</p> + +<p>South-east of the old towered enclosure, which +had five rooms, a new bungalow of two rooms +and bathrooms, with kitchen buildings apart +behind, was being built. It was sheltered by +a rugged background of mountains of no great +height, but picturesque enough and highly +coloured when the sun shone upon them. Being, +however, well rounded and looking like petrified +accumulations of sand, they did not quite compare +in interest with the fantastic cutting edges +of the Malek-Siah and neighbouring ranges. +They formed the southern barrier to the Beluchistan +extension of the Afghan desert.</p> + +<p>The altitude of Kirtaka was 3,710 feet.</p> + +<p>There was a curious Beluch grave here made +of white stones with an edge of grey pebbles, +and a circle round it, with a smaller outer kneeling +place, such as may be seen in the numerous +Mesjids so common all over the country, the +various styles of which will be duly described in +a subsequent chapter.</p> + +<p>Innumerable sand hills and, in fact, a long hill +range some 350 feet high stood to the west in +front of the rocky mountains behind. These<a name="Pg_2-314" id="Pg_2-314"></a> +caused a great many ups and downs on the +track, the principal heights I measured being: +3,800 feet, 3,700 feet, 3,420 feet (8 miles from +Kirtaka), this latter altitude where the road lay +close to the mountains. Beyond this point the +track was south-east (125° bearings magnetic) +with picturesque mountains on the east-south-east +and high red sand hills in the east, one isolated +high black hill lying in the desert beyond. A +very pointed conical hill was noticeable, and +another like a small replica of Fujisan of Japan +fame. This latter hill was in Afghan territory. +A number of great rocky pillars stood upright +above the hill tops. Twelve miles from Kirtaka +we crossed a river bed 150 feet wide, which lost +itself in the Afghan desert. Then a mile further +we came to another river bed.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-076.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-076_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Black Tents at Mahommed Raza Chah." title="Beluch Black Tents at Mahommed Raza Chah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Black Tents at Mahommed Raza Chah.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-077.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-077_th.jpg" alt="Rock Pillar between Kirtaka and Saindak." title="Rock Pillar between Kirtaka and Saindak." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Rock Pillar between Kirtaka and Saindak.</p> + +<p>The track here (about 13 miles from +Kirtaka) turned south-west following the river +bed, then due south, where among the mountains +we saw a huge pillar of a brilliant yellow +colour and over 50 feet high, standing up by the +roadside. The illustration gives a fair idea of it. +To the south-east in the direction of our track, +which for a change was quite tortuous, were +mounds of sand and debris. The red rock of +the mountains seemed crumbling towards the +east, whereas the hills to the west were well +rounded and padded with sand and gravel.</p> + +<p>We went over a low pass 3,810 feet, and then +along a flat basin with hills to the south-east, and +outlets both to the south-east and east. We had +descended to 3,680 feet, but had to go up another<a name="Pg_2-315" id="Pg_2-315"></a> +pass 4,060 feet, the highest we had so far encountered. +Innumerable yellow sand hills were +before us to the north-north-east, and here we +were on a sort of flat sandy plateau, three-quarters +of a mile wide and a mile and a half long. Ten +sharp-pointed peaks could be counted to the +south-south-east, high mountains were before us +to the south-east, and a long range beyond them +east-south-east. Sand dunes, shaped like the back +of a whale were to the east, and a remarkable +spherical mount south-south-east directly in front +of the ten peaks. We arrived at Saindak.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-316" id="Pg_2-316"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXX" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An excursion into Afghanistan—The salt deposits of God-i-Zirreh—Sand +hills—Curious formation of hill range—Barchans +and how they are formed—Alexander's march +through the country—The water of Godar-i-Chah—Afghans +and their looks.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> excursion which I made into Afghan +territory to the salt deposit of Gaud- or God-i-Zirreh, +and a lower depression to the east of it, +was of great interest to me.</p> + +<p>There are a great many theories regarding +these former salt lakes, and it is not easy to say +which is right and which is wrong. The +general belief is that these lakes were formed by +the overflow of the Halmund swamp into the +Shela (river) which carried sufficient water not +only to fill up the God-i-Zirreh, but to overflow +when this was full into the next depression east +of the Zirreh.</p> + +<p>There is no doubt that to a great extent this +was the case, but these lakes were, I think, also +fed more directly by several small streams +descending from the mountains to the south and +west of the Zirreh, which form the watershed—and +very probably also from the north by the +Halmund River itself. Both lakes were dry and<a name="Pg_2-317" id="Pg_2-317"></a> +seemed to have been so for some time. The +God-i-Zirreh, forming now a great expanse of +solid salt some 26 miles long by 5 or 6 wide, +extends in a long oval from west to east. The +other lake was somewhat smaller.</p> + +<p>To the south of these salt deposits in the +zones between them and the present Afghan +boundary, and forming the southern fringe of +the Afghan desert, the soil is covered with +gravel and stones washed down from the mountain +sides. Very stony indeed is the desert +towards the Malek-Siah end, then further north-east +appear brown earth, shale, and sand. To +the north of the lakes was a long line of bright +yellow sand extending from west to east and +broad enough towards the north to reach the +bank of the river Halmund. Another shiny +patch, which at first, from a distance, I had +mistaken for another smaller lake, turned out on +examination to be a stretch of polished shale +which shone in the sun, and appeared like bluish +water.</p> + +<p>Stunted tamarisk grows in some parts but not +in the immediate neighbourhood of the salt +deposits. We have here instead a belt of +myriads of small conical sand-hills, also spreading +from west to east, quite low to the west and +getting higher for several miles towards the east. +In the south-west part of the desert, curiously +enough, between the zone of conical hills and +the salt deposits, and parallel to both, lies a row +of semi-spherical sand and salt mounds of a +whitish colour.<a name="Pg_2-318" id="Pg_2-318"></a></p> + +<p>To the east-south-east of the lakes the sand-hills +rise to a great height and eventually form a +high ridge, which for some reason or other is +cut perpendicularly on its western side, possibly +as the result of a volcanic commotion. Of +similar origin probably was the gigantic crack +caused by an earthquake which we shall examine +later on near Nushki. In fact, both the crack +at Nushki and the collapse of the west side of +this hill range, as well as a great portion of that +deep crack in the earth's crest in which the +Shela flows, have very likely been formed by the +same cause. They are within the same zone of +volcanic formation. In the particular case of +this hill range in Afghanistan the collapse did +not appear to me to be due to the action of +water, but to a sudden crumbling which had +caused a very sharp vertical cut.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-078.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-078_th.jpg" alt="Sand Hills." title="Sand Hills." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Sand Hills.</p> + +<p>To the north of the salt wastes was another +long belt of yellow sand extending for some +40 miles, upon which there was absolutely no +vegetation, while intervening between the salt +and this sand flat were numerous sand barchans, +like horseshoes, with a gradual slope on the +windward side (north) and a crescent hollow +with a steep but not quite vertical bank on the +lee side.</p> + +<p>I noticed all over Persia, and in Beluchistan as +well as here, that these sand barchans, or barchanes, +will only form on level ground—generally on +extensive plains. All single sand hills, however, +whether barchans, conical, semi-spherical, or of +more irregular shapes, are invariably caused by a<a name="Pg_2-319" id="Pg_2-319"></a> +primary obstacle, however small, arresting the +sand. Various are the theories with regard to +the formation of these barchans, and especially +with regard to the formation of the hollow on +the lee side.</p> + +<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/ill2-079.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-079_th.jpg" alt="Untitled illustration." title="Untitled illustration." /></a></p> + +<p>The explanation from my own observation has—if +no other—at least the merit of simplicity. +The wind, on meeting the semi-circular back of +the barchan, is diverted on the two sides of it; +these two currents come into violent collision +again on the lee-side, where, the air being more +or less still, a considerable portion of the wind is +forcibly driven back towards the barchan, corroding +its side in a double rotatory way, each +such circle having for a diameter the radius of +the barchan crescent containing them. In fact +in many barchans the sand ripples on the windward +slopes cross the direction of the wind at +right angles. A line of sand formed in the centre +of the barchan crescent in the opposite direction +to the wind is often to be seen during wind +storms or soon after. I have also seen barchans, +the inner crescent of which showed beyond<a name="Pg_2-320" id="Pg_2-320"></a> +doubt that when there is a prevalent wind from +one side only, the above explanation, although +less scientifically obscure and elaborate than most, +applies, and, I think, it may eventually be found +quite the most probable.</p> + +<p>The diagram here given will illustrate and, I +hope, make quite clear the meaning of my words. +In the centre of the crescent can be noticed the +action of the parting wind currents.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-080.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-080_th.jpg" alt="A Caravan of Donkeys in Afghanistan." title="A Caravan of Donkeys in Afghanistan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Caravan of Donkeys in Afghanistan.</p> + +<p>North of Kirtaka was a very pointed high +conical hill, and not far from it a small replica of +Fujisan in Japan, so much were the lines like +those of the Japanese mountain. A great many of +the drain channels from the mountains to the +south extended very far into the desert and some +as far as the God-i-Zirreh.</p> + +<p>It is also very probable that in the days when +Sistan was a most populous region, with uninterrupted +towns and villages along and near the +Halmund, numerous canals may have intersected +the Zirreh region and rendered it a very fertile +plain. History would indeed point forcibly +towards such a hypothesis. Ample proof that +the plain was inhabited still remains in the ruins +of Godar-i-Chah, situated at the western limit of +the Zirreh salt deposits, Chah-i-Mardan, where a +ruined fort and a Ziarat are said to exist, Gumbaz-i-Chah, +and others. All these places are now +deserted and are being fast buried by the sand. +They are mostly along the Shela (river) banks, +and the natives of Sistan say that they have heard +from their ancestors that when the Shela did flow +freely its water was quite drinkable.<a name="Pg_2-321" id="Pg_2-321"></a></p> + +<p>There was a well at Godar-i-Chah—hence its +name, "the well of Godar"—almost entirely +dried up and of water so foul that it was not +possible to drink it, and another just as bad was +said to exist at Gumbaz.</p> + +<p>It would be most interesting if one could get +at the actual history of this part of the world and +gain an insight into its former prosperity and +civilisation. It is quite probable that Alexander, +in his progress through Beluchistan and Sistan, +must have come through this country. No army—not +even with a new Craterus at its head—could, +of course, march elephants, camels and +horses through that country to-day, and this has +led some critics to doubt that Alexander could +have done so, or to believe that, if he did so, he +must have been deceived by his guides who tried +to bring him as far as possible from water. But +those critics forget that in Alexander's days this +portion of country was extremely civilised, fertile, +and supplied with plenty of water—or else how +can we account for the innumerable ruins we +find there, and for the many canals for irrigation?</p> + +<p>Sir Charles McGregor, Goldsmid, Bellew, +Major MacMahon, Napier, and one or two +others who have visited the country north of the +Zirreh, can fully testify to the amazing remains +of former prosperity in Sistan and south-west +Afghanistan.</p> + +<p>Sir Charles McGregor gives an amusing +receipt for those who wish to know what the +water at Godar-i-Chah is like without having the +trouble of going there. "Take the first nasty-<a name="Pg_2-322" id="Pg_2-322"></a>looking +water you can find. Mix salt with it +until it tastes as nasty as it looks, then impregnate +it with gas from a London street lamp, +and add a little bilge-water, shake vigorously and +it is ready for use." Major McMahon also +testifies to the accuracy of the above receipt, but, +he adds, "it was not nearly so bad as much we +found elsewhere."</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-081.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-081_th.jpg" alt="In Afghanistan. Who are you?" title="In Afghanistan. Who are you?" /></a></p> +<p class="illc">In Afghanistan. Who are you?</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-082.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-082_th.jpg" alt="In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men." title="In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">In the Afghan Desert. Afghan Caravan Men.</p> + +<p>The Zirreh seemed just like a great stretch of +country under snow, the thick salt sediment was +so beautifully white. It formed a deep depression +in the centre. The second deposits to +the east of the Zirreh were of a similar shape, +with salt extremely thick, but not quite so +extensive as in the Zirreh. Near the edge of +both dry lakes there was absolutely no vegetation, +but most beautifully coloured stones could be +found, such as red and brown jasper and agatescent +quartz, chalcedony, white and brown +limestone.</p> + +<p>As I was returning towards the Beluchistan +boundary among the sand hills I came upon +about a dozen Afghans, who looked as suspiciously +at me as I did at them. At first I +thought they were soldiers, and as I did not +much care to be caught by them and have my +goods confiscated—no Englishmen being allowed +in their territory—I requested them to stop some +way off and explain what they wanted, while I was +snapshotting them. They had a great big white +fluffy dog with them who seemed very anxious +to have a go at the Sahib. One man was asked +to come forward alone, which he did with his<a name="Pg_2-323" id="Pg_2-323"></a> +turban right over his eyes, while the others +formed a line behind and appeared most puzzled +as to what was going to happen. He said they +were glad to see me in their country and that +they were "good people," and would not injure +nor trouble me in any way; so I gave them a small +present, which seemed to please them much, and +they became quite friendly. They seemed to +have some coarse humour about them and were +rather boisterous. Their faces, however, did not +quite appeal to me.</p> + +<p>The Afghan invariably has a slippery, +treacherous look about his countenance which he +cannot disguise, and which, personally, I do not +much admire. He seldom looks at one straight +in the face, can be very sullen when he is not +boisterous, and I should think would easily seek +cause of offence and pick a quarrel with any one +weaker than himself in order to have a fight. +These fellows were, for instance, most unlike the +gentlemanly Beluch. They shouted at the top +of their voices when they spoke, and were +uncouth in speech and manner. I was rather +glad when they departed.</p> + +<p>Further on I came upon more people and +animals, but they, too, were quite peaceful.</p> + +<p>Having accomplished my object I again crossed +over into Beluchistan.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-324" id="Pg_2-324"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Saindak—Beluch prisoners—Thana and Bungalow—Beluch +bread—The Saindak mountain and its mineral resources—The +Daftan volcano—<i>Surmah</i> and lead—Mukak and its +strong man—A sick camel—Gypsum—<i>Regheth</i>—Where +the track will deviate in future—Difficulty in obtaining +drinkable water—Wells made attractive—Sahib chah—A +well ventilated rest-house.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Saindak</span> had an imposing <i>thana</i>, the elaborate +gateway of which was decorated with heads of +wild sheep and <i>dumbahs</i>. There were nine +rooms—some boasting of wooden doors—at the +end of the large court, but all were occupied by +the seven <i>sawars</i>, the postal <i>moonshee</i>, the three +<i>kassildars</i> and the <i>havildar</i>, one <i>duffadar</i>, and one +<i>jemadar</i>.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-083.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-083_th.jpg" alt="The Thana and New Bungalow at Saindak. (Saindak Mt. in background.)" title="The Thana and New Bungalow at Saindak. (Saindak Mt. in background.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">The Thana and New Bungalow at Saindak.</span> (Saindak Mt. in background.)</p> + +<p>On my arrival they proceeded to clear one of +the chambers for me, and to my astonishment +out of it came four wretched men chained +together by the hands and feet and in a pitiable +condition. Not that their countenances, when +one examined their faces, called for much pity. +More palpably criminal types could be found +nowhere, but somehow or other to see these +poor devils stumbling along, with the iron rings +round their bruised and sore ankles showing +through the torn rags which covered their<a name="Pg_2-325" id="Pg_2-325"></a> +skeleton legs, and the agonized expressions on +their worn, repulsively cruel faces, was not an +edifying sight. They had been brought down +here to work and, for prisoners, were treated +considerately enough, I suppose. But they +seemed very ill and suffering. Two were +robbers, the other two—father and son—had +murdered a man and stolen 400 sheep. They +were condemned to captivity for life.</p> + +<p>I declined to put up in that room, especially +when I happened to peep in and was nearly +choked by the foul odour that emanated from +inside, and preferred—although it was very cold—to +inhabit the unroofed new two-roomed +bungalow in course of construction, which I +found really very comfortable.</p> + +<p>As can be seen by the photograph the thana +and bungalow of Saindak are built on rather +an attractive site under the shelter of the Saindak +Mountain. Whenever I see a mountain I cannot +resist the temptation to go up it, and now, +after all the thousands of miles of flat country +I had traversed, I felt this desire more strongly +than ever. The ascent of the mountain presented +no difficulty except that its rocky sides +were somewhat steep. I resolved to go up +early the next morning before making a start +with my camels.</p> + +<p>In the meantime during the evening I was +instructed by Mahommed Hussein, my camel +man, in the Beluch fashion of making bread—really +a most ingenious device. A stone of +moderate size, say 4 inches in diameter and as<a name="Pg_2-326" id="Pg_2-326"></a> +round as can be found, is made red hot on the +fire, and upon it a coating of paste—flour, water, +and salt—is deposited evenly so as to make an +envelope of paste one inch thick all over. +Three, four, five, or as many of these balls as +required being made, they are placed in a circle +near a blazing fire, so that the outside may get +baked as well as the inside. When ready for +consumption the balls are split open and the +stones removed. The bread is really most +excellent and resembles a biscuit.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-084.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-084_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Prisoners at Saindak." title="Beluch Prisoners at Saindak." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Prisoners at Saindak.</p> + +<p>At Saindak (altitude 3,810 feet) there are a +number of wells, mostly very salt, but one has +quite fair water, only slightly brackish. The +water, however, had a peculiar taste of its own, +as if it had gone through lead deposits, and, on +mentioning this to some Beluch they told me +that lead was, in fact, found on the mountains +just above this camp. Having drunk two +glasses of this water I was taken with bad +internal pains, but I must in fairness own that +I do not know whether to attribute this entirely +to the water or to indiscreet consumption of an +irresistible, extra rich plum-cake which the +wonderful Sadek now produced, much to my +surprise and delight, from among my provisions.</p> + +<p>Travellers, however, would do well to bring +their own supply of water from Kirtaka, if they +are coming from Robat, or from Mukak, if +travelling from Quetta.</p> + +<p>The ascent to the summit of the Saindak +mountain well repays the traveller for the +exertion of getting there, and that not only on<a name="Pg_2-327" id="Pg_2-327"></a> +account of its geological formation. Looking +over the lower mountains one obtained a magnificent +view of the Afghan desert as far as the +eye could see, to the north-west and north-east, +while to the west lay a mountain mass, the +Mirjawa mountains, and innumerable sand hills. +To the south-south-west towered above everything +the double-humped active volcano of +Kuh-i-Daftan, with its snow-capped crater. It +was smoking, <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'nothwithstanding'">notwithstanding</ins> the ridiculous +theory entertained by some F.R.G.S. that volcanoes +cannot exist so far south in the Northern +Hemisphere! We saw this volcano for several +days and it threw up considerable volumes of +smoke. At night it occasionally had quite a +glow above its crater.</p> + +<p>The volcano, I need not say, is in Persian +territory, and is some 60 miles distant, as the crow +flies, from Saindak, although in the clear atmosphere +it does not appear more than a few miles +off. It is a most impressive mountain.</p> + +<p>Parallel ridges of sand hills, facing east, were +to be seen to the south-west of the Saindak +mountain, and then a wide flat plain, beyond +which four successive mountain ranges, formed a +powerful barrier. To the south-east also were +high mountains.</p> + +<p>On the top of the mountain we came upon +some of the holes that contain lead and <i>Surmah</i> +or <i>Surf</i>—a substance much used by women in +Persia, Afghanistan, Beluchistan and India for +blackening the lashes and lower eyelids. Surmah +was plentiful enough, especially between two<a name="Pg_2-328" id="Pg_2-328"></a> +layers of perpendicular rock, and also in surface +pebbles when split open. Calcareous rock with +galena was to be found, besides fragments of +calcite, gypsum, and slag.</p> + +<p>It appeared that the natives must at some time +have tried to exploit these mines in a primitive +manner, for there were many holes bored all over +the top of the mountain, and near them bits of +coal embedded in slag. These excavations were +generally bored in mounds of yellow earth, or, +rather, the mounds were of that colour because +of the earth which had been extracted from the +borings, the colour of the surrounding earth and +rock being grey and black. Lead filaments in +brittle layers were also noticeable mixed with the +earth. Two inches below the ground one found, +on digging, a thick deposit of salt and gypsum.</p> + +<p>My camels with loads had made an early start, +and on my returning to camp some three hours +after their departure I proceeded to catch them +up on my excellent <i>mari</i>. There was very little +of interest on the march. We rose over a gentle +incline, travelling due south upon undulating +ground to an altitude of 3,870 feet, beyond +which we descended into a flat basin with a +broad outlet to the south-south-east, and another +south-west by a narrow defile in the mountain +range. We then crossed a broader plain, about +two miles broad, with good grazing for camels, +and here again, being well out in the open, we +got a magnificent view of the Daftan volcano +(south-west) in all its splendour.</p> + +<p>We reached Mukak (3,580 feet) in the after<a name="Pg_2-329" id="Pg_2-329"></a>noon, +the distance from Saindak being 13 miles, +880 yards, and, owing to my camels being tired, +and the small beady plant called <i>regheth</i>—much +cherished by camels—plentiful, we halted for the +remainder of the day.</p> + +<p>At this place we found the usual <i>jemadar</i>, a +<i>duffadar</i>, and four men, and were cordially +received by the <i>palawan's</i> moonshee, a nice fellow +who wore a peaked turban of gigantic size, and +a brown coat beautifully embroidered on the +back and sleeves with violet-coloured silk. The +embroidery, he informed me, took six years to +make—it was not fully completed yet—and, on +inquiring the cost of it, he said that it would +certainly fetch as much as 10 rupees (13<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i>) +when quite finished! The pattern on it was +most cleverly designed and produced a graceful +effect. On the middle of the sleeves were a +number of superposed T's made of ribbon bands +and with delicate ornamentations round them, +such as little squares with radiating threads, a +frieze going all round the arm, and parallel lines. +On the back was a large triangle upside down, +the base at the neck and the point downwards, +joining at its lower end a square the inside of +which was most elaborately embroidered.</p> + +<p>The <i>palawan</i>, or strong man, in charge of this +station, was a man with a romantic history of +his own, and perhaps the British Government +were very wise to employ him. He is said to +possess enormous muscular strength, being able +to perform such amazing feats as reducing to +dust between his first finger and thumb a silver<a name="Pg_2-330" id="Pg_2-330"></a> +rupee by merely rubbing it once, or breaking +any coin in two in his hands with the same ease +that one would a biscuit. Aïd Mahommed, +that was his name, was unfortunately absent on +the day I passed through, so I was not able to +witness his marvellous feats—of strength or +palming(?)—and the accounts of his native admirers +were not to be taken <i>au pied de la lettre</i>.</p> + +<p>Mukak had six mud rooms, three roofed over +and the others unroofed. Water was plentiful +but slightly brackish, and a salt rivulet, a few +inches broad, irrigated a patch or two of cultivation +below the rest house.</p> + +<p>Among low hills, we rode away first due east +from Mukak, the track at a mile's distance rising +to 3,620 feet, and we remained at this altitude +for five miles. Again on this march we obtained +a glorious view (at 200° b.m.) of the Daftan +volcano, with its two imposing white domes on +the crater sides. We had then gone north-east +for 6½ miles, when, after rounding some sand +hills, our track proceeded again due east.</p> + +<p>We had crossed a plain one mile broad and +four and a half miles long, where there was good +grazing (<i>regheth</i>) for camels, but no tamarisk. +At the termination of the plateau, which rose +some 50 feet higher than the remainder of it, +we commenced to descend by a gentle incline, +having high hills to our left (north) and low hills +to our right (south), the track being due east. +To the north-east we had another long, straight, +monotonous spread of fine sand and gravel in +slight undulations, and to the south-west very<a name="Pg_2-331" id="Pg_2-331"></a> +low ranges of sand hills varying in height from +20 feet to 100 feet. Before us on our left to 100 +bearings magnetic (E.E.S.E.) stood above the +plain a pillar-shaped mound of enormous height +resembling, from a distance, a semi-ruined tower, +and south-south-east (150° b.m.) another isolated +red mountain with a sharp, needle-like point. +Other smaller rocks, of sugar-loaf form, were +scattered about on our left.</p> + +<p>By the roadside an enormous boulder weighing +several tons could be seen, the presence of which +could not easily be accounted for unless it had +been shot out by volcanic action. It was most +unlike the formation of the rock in the immediate +neighbourhood of it, and had all the +appearance of having dropped at this place.</p> + +<p>The track again changed its course and +now went to east-south-east, (120° b.m.). My +riding camel was taken very ill, and even +Mahommed's most affectionate language, and +the caresses he bestowed on him as if the animal +had been his dearest relation, had no appreciable +effect upon his health. The animal evidently +had a colic, caused, no doubt, by excessive +eating of <i>regheth</i> the previous day. He seemed +to have the greatest trouble in dragging his legs +along, and every now and then he languidly +swung his head round and gave me a <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'repoachful'">reproachful</ins> +look, which undoubtedly meant "Can't you see +I am ill? I wish you would get off."</p> + +<p>Well, I did get off, although walking in the +desert is not a pleasure at any time, and when +we arrived at the next well, after a dreadfully<a name="Pg_2-332" id="Pg_2-332"></a> +slow march, we proceeded to doctor up our +long-necked patient.</p> + +<p>Now, doctoring a camel is not an easy matter, +for one cannot work on his imagination as +doctors do on human beings. When a camel is +ill, he is really ill. There was no mistake about +the symptoms of his complaint, and after a +consultation Sadek, Mahommed and I agreed +that a strong solution of salt and water should be +administered, which was easier said than done. +While the poor brute lay with his long neck +stretched upon the sand, moaning, groaning +and breathing heavily, we mixed a bag of salt—all +we had—with half a bucket of water, and +after endless trouble—for our patient was most +recalcitrant—poured the contents down his +throat.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-085.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-085_th.jpg" alt="Interior of Rest House, Mukak." title="Interior of Rest House, Mukak." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Interior of Rest House, Mukak.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-086.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-086_th.jpg" alt="The Rest House at Sahib Chah." title="The Rest House at Sahib Chah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Rest House at Sahib Chah.</p> + +<p>We had some moments of great anxiety, for +the animal was taken with a fit. He fell on his +side, his legs quivered three or four times, and +for one moment we really thought our remedy +had killed him. The medicine, however, had +the desired effect, and about an hour later the +camel was again as lively as a cricket, and we +were able to continue.</p> + +<p>The reader may perhaps gauge what the loss +of a camel would have been when he is told that +between Sher-i-Nasrya, Sistan, and Nushki—a +journey of some 500 miles—neither camels nor +any other mode of conveyance are, under +ordinary circumstances, to be procured.</p> + +<p>We passed a conical hill, by the roadside, +which had thick deposits of gypsum on the<a name="Pg_2-333" id="Pg_2-333"></a> +south-east side of its base, while on the north-west +side the process of petrification of the +sand was fully illustrated. The thin surface +layer when moist gets baked by the sun, and +thus begins its process of solidification; then +another layer of sand is deposited on it by the +wind and undergoes the same process, forming +the thin, horizontal strata so common in the +section of all these hills. The lower strata get +gradually harder and harder, but those nearer the +surface can be easily crumbled into sand again +by pressure between one's fingers.</p> + +<p>These were the main altitudes registered on +the day's march: Plain, 3,220 feet; 16 miles +from Mukak, 3,200 feet; while a mile and a +half further we had gone as low as 2,500 feet on +a wide plain with undulations. The rocky +mountain, when seen edgewise from a distance, +had appeared like a tower; now, on approaching +it on its broad side, its silhouette altered its +semblance into that of an elongated crouching +lion.</p> + +<p>Great quantities of gypsum could be seen in +layers under the sand and fragments that covered +the surface. In places the ground was quite +white as if with snow. The track, until we had +passed the isolated "lion" mountain (about 20 +miles from Mukak), maintained a direction of east, +east-south-east, and south-east, but about a mile +further, it turned sharply northwards in a bed of +soft sand, between sand mounds to the north-east +and a sand bank facing north, the top of which, +full of humps, was not unlike a crocodile's back.<a name="Pg_2-334" id="Pg_2-334"></a></p> + +<p>To the right we had an open space where one +got a view of the desert and mountains to the +south, and then we wended our way, in zig-zag, +among sand hills bearing no unusual characteristics, +and travelled across a very sandy plain +with clusters of <i>regheth</i> here and there.</p> + +<p>This was one of the worst bits of the Robat-Nushki +road. The sand was troublesome and +the track absolutely obliterated by it in this +portion. Twenty-three miles, 660 yards from +Mukak we arrived at Sahib Chah, a spot which +no traveller is ever likely to forget, especially if a +few drops of water from one of the wells are +tasted. When the road was made it was very +difficult to find drinkable water in this part, and +this well—renowned all over Beluchistan and +Sistan for its magic powers—has up to the +present time been the only successful attempt; +but I understand from Captain Webb-Ware, +who is in charge of the road, that he hopes to +find or has found water further north, on the +other side of the hill range, and that in future +the traveller will be spared the good fortune of +visiting this heavenly spot.</p> + +<p>Most attractive iron troughs had been brought +here and placed near the four wells, and up-to-date +wooden windlasses had been erected on the +edge of each well—conveniences that were not +quite so common at the stations we had already +passed. This may lead the unwary traveller to +believe that the water of these wells must have +some special charm.</p> + +<p>One well was, fortunately, absolutely dry.<a name="Pg_2-335" id="Pg_2-335"></a> +The water of two was so powerful in its lightning +effects that unfortunate was the wretch who +succumbed to the temptation of tasting it; while +the water of the fourth well, one was told, was of +a quite good drinking kind. I had been warned +not to touch it, but my men and camels drank +some and it had equally disastrous effects on men +and beasts. Sadek, who was requested to experiment +and report on such occasions, thought his +last hour had come, and he and the camel men +moaned and groaned the greater part of the night. +The water seemed not only saturated with salt, but +tasted of lead and phosphorus, and was a most +violent purgative.</p> + +<p>The rest-house could not be called luxurious; +the reader is referred to the photograph I took of +it facing page <a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a>. It was roofless—which, personally, +I did not mind—and the walls just high +enough to screen one from the wind and sand. It +was in two compartments, the wall of one being +4½ feet high, and of the other about 7 feet high, +while 15 feet by 8 feet, and 10 feet by 8 feet +were the respective dimensions of each section.</p> + +<p>The place lies in the middle of a valley amid +hills of chalk or gypsum and deep soft sand, and +is screened by a low hill range to the north-east +and north, while a low flat-topped sand dune +protects it on the south-west. The new track, +I believe, will go north of the north-east range.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-336" id="Pg_2-336"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXII"></a>CHAPTER XXXII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sick men and camels—What came of photographing Sahib +Chah—Losing the track—Divided opinions—Allah <i>versus</i> +the compass—Sadek's way of locating positions—Picked up +hungry and thirsty by sensible Mahommed who had come +in search—Curious scenery—Trouble at Mirjawa—Mythical +Perso-Beluch frontier—Gypsum and limestone—Mushki +Chah.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> all my camels as well as my men had been +very sick during the night; as we had a long +march before us the following day, and as I +wished to take a photograph of the place, I +resolved not to leave until the sun had risen, and +in order to avoid delay I despatched all the +camels and loads, except my camera, at four +o'clock in the morning, meaning to walk some +ten or fifteen miles, and thus give my own camel +a rest. Sadek, who said it was not right for a +servant to ride when his master walked, refused +to go on with the caravan and insisted on remaining +with me.</p> + +<p>When the camels left—there was a cutting +northerly wind blowing raising clouds of sand—I +retreated to the shelter to wait for the sun to rise, +and had a few hours' sleep in a solitary blanket I +had retained. The track had so far been so well<a name="Pg_2-337" id="Pg_2-337"></a> +defined that I never thought of asking Mahommed +which way it led out of these hills.</p> + +<p>The sun having risen, and the photograph of +Sahib Chah shelter duly taken, we proceeded to +catch up the camels, but a few yards from the +shelter all signs of the track ceased, and even the +footprints of my camels had been absolutely +obliterated by the high wind of the morning. +To the east-south-east were rather high rocky +hills and two passes, one going round to the +north-north-east (which apparently would take +us away from our direction), and another east-south-east, +which seemed more likely to be the +right one. To mislead us more we saw what +we believed to be faint camel tracks smothered +in sand in this direction, so on we went, sinking +in fine sand, which kept filling our shoes and +made walking most uncomfortable.</p> + +<p>I climbed to the top of the rocky hill to reconnoitre, +but higher hills stood all round barring +the view, and I was none the wiser. On we +went—certain that we were going wrong, but +unable to find where the track was. Among +hundreds of sand hills, dunes, and high parallel +hill ranges it was not easy to discover it.</p> + +<p>There were flat stretches of sand and parallel +dunes several hundred feet high stretching from +north by north-west to south by south-east, and +as I knew the way must be east we had to go +over them, down on the other side, only to be +confronted with others before us like the waves +of a stormy sea.</p> + +<p>The sun was scorching, and when the sand got<a name="Pg_2-338" id="Pg_2-338"></a> +hot, too, walking was most unpleasant. When +we were not on sand while ascending the hill +slopes and tops we were on cutting shale. Sadek, +who had not yet recovered from his previous +night's experience at Sahib Chah, was still sick, +and with the extra exertion somehow or other +lost his head altogether.</p> + +<p>After having gone up and down, I should not +like to say how many times, we were confronted +by a flat valley to the south-west and more +mountains to be crossed in the direction we +were going, to the north-east. Sadek thereupon +maintained that the track must perforce be along +the valley, to which I would not agree, and I +insisted on keeping east, which I knew would +bring us right in the end. As we climbed hill +after hill, Sadek dragged himself behind me +with a discontented face, every few minutes +glancing back at the distant flat valley to the +south-west, to which he pointed, sighing: +"Good master, that's road!"</p> + +<p>But up and down we continued, away from it, +eastwards, range after range of hills being left +behind and more ranges standing in front of us. +Sadek, who was sweating under the weight of +the rifle and camera, grumbled that he was ill +and tired, hungry and thirsty, and it was very +little consolation to think that from this spot, +the two nearest wells of drinkable water were +distant one about twenty-eight miles, the other +over forty miles. We had nothing whatever +with us to eat or drink.</p> + +<p>After some three hours of uncertainty—and I<a name="Pg_2-339" id="Pg_2-339"></a> +must confess that it was somewhat trying each +time we had reached the top of a range, which +we climbed with anxious enthusiasm, expecting +to get a glimpse of the track, to find our view +obstructed by yet another range, generally higher +than the one on which we stood,—after hours of +toiling, as I was saying, we now came to a rocky +range about double the height of any we had +climbed so far.</p> + +<p>Sadek, on looking at it, declined to climb any +more. He said he knew the track must be in +the opposite direction and we should only have +to climb all these hills back again. He sat down +and puffed away at cigarettes to allay his hunger +and thirst and soothe his temper, while I climbed +to the highest point, some 480 feet, above the +point where I had left Sadek. Behold! on +reaching the summit, beyond another range lower +to the north, along a wide undulating plain I did +discern a whitish streak like a chalk line stretching +from west to east,—unmistakably the road.</p> + +<p>I signalled the news to Sadek, and shouted to +him to come up, which he most reluctantly did. +When panting half-way up the hill, he still +turned round to the south-west and disconsolately +exclaimed, "No can be road, my good master. +That is road!" (to the south-west). I ordered +him to hurry up to my point of vantage and see +for himself.</p> + +<p>"May be road, may be not road," was his +obstinate verdict, when the white streak across the +plain was triumphantly pointed out to him.</p> + +<p>"But, Sadek, can you not see the white<a name="Pg_2-340" id="Pg_2-340"></a> +perfectly straight line stretching along, straighter +than anything else around you?"</p> + +<p>"I can see plenty white lines, master. <i>Up-stairs</i> +mountains, <i>down-stairs</i> mountains"—(by +which he meant gypsum strata on the top and +foot of hills). "May be," he added, sarcastically, +"all roads to Shalkot (Quetta)!"</p> + +<p>"Can you not see that the white track leads +exactly in the direction where my compass says +we must go?"</p> + +<p>"Pfff! Compass no good!" he exclaimed with +an air of amusing superiority, and he stooped to +pick two pebbles of different colours. "Take +one of these in one hand, and one in the other," +he asked of me. "Now throw one towards the +east and one towards the west."</p> + +<p>I having for curiosity's sake complied with +his request, he gravely examined the discarded +stones.</p> + +<p>"Yes, Sahib, your compass speaks truth! Allah +says yours is the right road!"</p> + +<p>On requesting an explanation of this novel +method of locating positions, Sadek looked very +solemn, and with a pause, as if he were about to +pour forth words of great wisdom, and disregarding +altogether the fact that my efforts solely and +simply were responsible for discovering the track, +"You see, my master," he said, "one stone I +called <i>good road</i>, the other I called <i>no road</i>. +Whichever stone you throw first is Allah's wish. +Allah is more right than compass."</p> + +<p>At any rate the method was simple enough, +and it fortunately happened that Allah and my<a name="Pg_2-341" id="Pg_2-341"></a> +compass seemed in agreement on that occasion; +so adding these circumstances to the more substantial +fact that we could see the track plainly +before us, we gaily descended from our lofty +pinnacle, and with renewed vigour climbed the +lower and last hill range, the last obstacle before +us.</p> + +<p>In the trough between the two ranges, however, +the fine sand was extremely nasty, almost +as bad as quicksand, and we had some trouble +in extricating ourselves. We sank into it almost +up to the waist. We then crossed the broad +plain in a diagonal for nearly four miles, and at +last, after some seven hours of anxiety, not to +speak of hunger and thirst, we struck the road +again.</p> + +<p>Sadek, who, notwithstanding Allah's patent +method, my compass bearings, and our combined +eyesight, was not at all certain in his own heart +that we should find the road that day, was so +overcome with joy when he actually recognised +my camel's footprints upon the sand, where not +obliterated by the wind, that he collapsed upon +the ground from fatigue and strain, and slept +snoring sonorously for nearly two hours.</p> + +<p>As luck would have it, a Beluch horseman +travelling towards Mushki-Chah had overtaken +my camels, and much to Mahommed's astonishment, +informed him that he had not seen the +Sahib on the road, so Mahommed, fearing that +something had happened, had the sense to turn +back with two camels to try and find us. We +were very glad of a lift when he arrived, and<a name="Pg_2-342" id="Pg_2-342"></a> +even more glad to partake of a hearty lunch, +and a long, long drink of water, which although +brackish tasted quite delicious, from one of the +skins.</p> + +<p>The track was like a whitish streak on a +sombre grey valley, with black hills scattered +here and there, and a most peculiar dome-like +hill on our left (10° b.m.) towards the north. +Eastwards we could see a long flat high table +mountain, not unlike Kuh-i-Kwajah of Sistan. +On our right were low, much broken-up hills; +to the west, low sand hillocks, and facing us, +north-east-east (80° b.m.) a low black hill range +standing in front of some high and very pointed +peaks. To the south-east there was an open +space.</p> + +<p>We made a diagonal crossing over several +sand dunes that stood from 50 to 80 feet high, +and extended to a great length southwards. +Then we approached the curious-domed hill. +It was of a warm reddish-brown colour, with +a yellow belt of sand at its base, and half-a-dozen +sugar-loaf sand hills to the west of it. To the +east of it rose the flat-topped plateau, yellowish +at the two extremities, as one looked at it from +this point, and black in the centre. On the +north-east (at 70° b.m.) was a pointed peak, +perfectly conical.</p> + +<p>It was a very long march to Mushki-Chah, +and we had a few mild excitements on the road. +We came across some picturesque Beluch, clothed +in flowing white robes, and carrying long matchlocks +with a fuse wound round the stock. They<a name="Pg_2-343" id="Pg_2-343"></a> +were extremely civil, all insisting on shaking +hands in a most hearty fashion, and seeming very +jolly after they had gravely gone through the +elaborate salutation which always occupies a +considerable time.</p> + +<p>Further on we met a cavalcade, which included +the Naib Tashildar of Mirjawa, an +Afghan in British employ, and the <i>duffadar</i> of +Dalbandin, the latter a most striking figure with +long curly hair hanging over his shoulders. +They were with some levies hastening to Mirjawa, +an important place, which, owing to the +ridiculous fashion in which the Perso-Beluch +Commission under Sir T. Holdich had marked +out the frontier, was now claimed both by Persia +and Beluchistan as making part of their respective +territories.</p> + +<p>When I was at the Perso-Beluch frontier there +was much ado about this matter, and some trouble +may be expected sooner or later. Anybody who +happens to know a few facts about the way in +which the frontier line was drawn must regret +that England should not employ upon such +important missions sensible and capable men +whose knowledge of the country is thorough.</p> + +<p>It would, no doubt, be very interesting to the +public to be told in detail <i>exactly how</i> the frontier +was fixed, and whether Sir T. Holdich, who was +in charge, <i>ever</i> visited the whole frontier line. +The Government maps which existed at the time +of the frontier demarcation were too inaccurate +to be of any use, as has been proved over and +over again to our sorrow. It would also be<a name="Pg_2-344" id="Pg_2-344"></a> +interesting to know whether the astronomical +positions of some of the supposed principal points +of the boundary have been accurately tested, and +whether some points which had been corrected +by really efficient officers have been omitted, if +not suppressed, in order to cover certain discrepancies. +And if so whether it was an expedient +to avoid showing the weakness of the +maps (on which certain names figure prominently) +which were taken as a basis for the delineation?</p> + +<p>The facts are too commonly known by all the +officers in Beluchistan and by the Foreign Office +in Calcutta, as well as by Persians, to be kept a +secret. It is painful to have to register facts of +this kind, but I most certainly think it is the +duty of any Englishman to expose the deeds of +men who obtain high sounding posts and can +only manage to keep them by intrigue and by +suppressing the straightforward work of really +able officers (which does not agree with theirs) +to the eventual expense and loss of the country at +large.</p> + +<p>As we went along, leaving the plain which we +had crossed for some fifteen miles, we saw to the +south-west large white patches like snow. These +were made of gypsum and white limestone covering +the ground. A curious long, low, flat hill, +with hundreds of vertical black streaks at its base +and a black summit, resembled a gigantic centipede +crawling on the flat desert. At the eastern +end of the long plain were mud-hills on the left +side of the track, and black, isolated, rounded +mounds on the right. To the south-east a very<a name="Pg_2-345" id="Pg_2-345"></a> +curious mountain could be seen, one side of +which was of beautiful white and yellow marble, +and from this spot we crossed hills of sand and +gravel, and the track was more tortuous, but +still travelling in a general direction of east-south-east +(110° b.m.)</p> + +<p>Other mountains there were, entirely of white +marble, and a great many beautifully tinted +fragments of marble, as well as yellow alabaster, +were strewn about abundantly upon the ground. +We travelled among hillocks for about seven and +a half miles, then emerged again into a plain with +a hill range to our left, but nothing near us on +the south. At the entrance of the valley on our +left stood a curious high natural stone pillar.</p> + +<p>By moonlight, but with clouds fast gathering +and threatening rain, we eventually reached +Mushki-Chah at about ten in the evening, +having travelled some 36 miles. The distance +by road from Sahib Chah would have been +28 miles 660 yards. Here we found the remainder +of my caravan which had arrived some +hours previously.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-346" id="Pg_2-346"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Mushki-Chah—A Ziarat—Beluch dwellings—The Beluch and +the camera—Characteristics of Beluch—Three wells of +good water at Kundi—The Kuh-i-Sultan and the "Spear +of the Sultan"—A big Ziarat at Kundi—Nineteen hours +on the saddle—Tretoh—Cold wind—Parallel rows of sand +barchans—Startling effect of mirage—Chah Sandan—Brahui +salutation—Belind Khan and his good points—A +respected officer—Praying at the Ziarat.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Mushki-Chah</span> (3,570 feet) is rather more interesting +than other stations we had passed, +because of the greater number of Beluch one saw +about. Here, too, however, one's sojourning +had to be curtailed, for unluckily the water was +not only brackish—to which one does not object +so much—but had a sulphurous taste, with a +sickening smell—not dissimilar from that of an +old-fashioned hospital ward, when the windows +have not been opened for several days. Otherwise +it had no drawback.</p> + +<p>There were four filthy pools from which +water was obtainable and which reminded us of +a previous experience at Girdi in Sistan. The +water of one well had a nasty green coating on +the surface; the second was of a deep yellow +colour. The other two wells were slightly<a name="Pg_2-347" id="Pg_2-347"></a> +cleaner but they, too, were of a suspicious colour—that +of strong tea. A cluster of a dozen palm +trees or so had grown near this water, and a little +way beyond on a sand and gravel bank was a +Ziarat with a low surrounding wall of black stones.</p> + +<p>The Ziarat was of an ovoid shape, it just +missed being circular, about 18 feet long and 16 +feet broad. An entrance had been made to the +east and a sort of altar constructed to the west by +north west—which is about the accurate direction +of Mecca from this spot. A high pole on which +flew red, white, and blue rags was fixed into the +altar. The altar—if one may call it so—was a +mass of blocks of beautifully coloured marble. +Some pieces resembled the best Sienna marble, +others were capriciously streaked in white and +dark brown; other large pieces were quite transparent +and resembled large blocks of camphor or +ice. Others were more granular, like lumps of +frozen snow. Then there were some lovely bits +of a greenish yellow marble and some brown. +These beautiful stones and pieces of marble were +brought to these Ziarats from great distances by +devotees. Stones reduced by nature into queer +shapes, hollowed for instance by the action of +sand or water, perfectly spherical, or strikingly +coloured were favourite offerings.</p> + +<p>At this particular Ziarat, a small marble mortar +with pestle and a marble hammer, occupied the +most prominent place. A flint arrow head was +also in evidence. Further was perched a curious +doll with a string and charm round its neck, and +some chips of beautiful transparent streaked<a name="Pg_2-348" id="Pg_2-348"></a> +yellow marble like bits of lemon. From the +pole hung a circle of wood and horns, as well as +coarse wooden imitations of horned animals' +skulls. Offerings of palm leaves had also been +deposited.</p> + +<p>West of the Ziarat was a small semicircular +Mesjid of brown stone, with a few white marble +pieces to the north by north-west, and, further, +long heaps of stones extending in a north by +north-west direction. The last one was in the +shape of a grave with a high white stone pillar +to the south.</p> + +<p>The new bungalow, of which the foundations +were just being laid, will be erected near this +Ziarat.</p> + +<p>Quite a number of Beluch were settled at +Mushki-Chah, and some lived in small quadrangular +mud houses, with a black tent stretched +over the walls to act as roof; or else they had +put up coarse huts made of branches of tamarisk +and thatched with palm tree leaves and tamarisk, +in which they lived—apparently in the most +abject poverty. Yet, although these residences +were often not higher than five or six feet, their +owners did not lack pride. In Beluchistan as in +England, the home of a man is his castle. The +Beluch, however—most unlike the English—would +not let anybody who did not belong to +his creed go into it.</p> + +<p>The occupations of the stay-at-home people +did not seem to have an excess of variety, and +consisted mainly of plaiting fuses for their +matchlocks, keeping the threads tightly stretched<a name="Pg_2-349" id="Pg_2-349"></a> +by means of a wooden bow. There were but +few coarse implements inside their huts, and a +bag or two with grain. A long matchlock and +a sword or two lay in a corner in most dwellings, +and that was about all.</p> + +<p>The house of the chief was somewhat more +elaborate, having trunks of palm trees inserted +vertically into the stone wall to strengthen it. +It had a mud and stone enclosing wall, and +trophies of heads of <i>dumbahs</i> near the flat roof. +In one room of this dwelling lived the family, in +the other the animals. An out-of-door enclosure +for horses was also noticeable. Two mud huts +were next to it.</p> + +<p>The thatched semispherical huts of palm tree +leaves and tamarisk were also interesting, as was +the windmill, identical with those already seen +in Sistan.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at Mushki-Chah two large +tents had been placed at my disposal—the first +time I had been under a tent on this journey—and +I received a great many callers. A very +amusing incident occurred when I asked an old +Beluch and his two sons to sit for their photographs. +They put on a sarcastic smile and said +they would rather die a natural death than be +taken. The old man, who said he had heard all +about "the black boxes," as he styled cameras, +and all the mischief they could do, complained +that since one or two sahibs had passed along the +route carrying "black boxes" a great many +Beluch had been taken ill, had misfortunes of all +kinds, and those who actually had the camera<a name="Pg_2-350" id="Pg_2-350"></a> +pointed at them had died from the effects. One +sahib had offered him, personally, a bag of silver +if he would only sit for his picture, but "No, +sir, not I!" said the father, as he shook his head +and scratched his beard; and "No, sir, not +we!" echoed the grinning youths, "never shall +we be taken!"</p> + +<p>Before they knew where they were, and +without any suspicion on their part, I had, by a +dodge of my own, taken three photographs of +them, the best of which is reproduced facing +page <a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a>.</p> + +<p>They were rather characteristic types of the +lower class Beluch of northern Beluchistan. +They possessed very quick, bright, shining eyes, +dark complexions and long noses, very broad at +the base. The mouth was generally the worst +feature in their faces, the upper lip being drawn +very tight over the teeth and giving rather a +brutal expression to their countenances. The +men were very powerfully built, thick-set, with +ribs well covered with muscle and fat, powerful, +coarse wrists and ankles, and square-shaped hands +with short stumpy thumbs.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-087.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-087_th.jpg" alt="Windmill at Mushki Chah." title="Windmill at Mushki Chah." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Windmill at Mushki Chah.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-088.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-088_th.jpg" alt="Three Beluch who would not be Photographed!" title="Three Beluch who would not be Photographed!" /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Three Beluch who would not be Photographed!</p> + +<p>Their attire was simple; a sort of long white +cotton blouse buttoned over the right shoulder +and ample trousers of the same material. Many, +however, wore a felt "overcoat"—or rather, +"overskin," for there was no other garment +underneath. A white turban was worn wound +round the head.</p> + +<p>A <i>duffadar</i>, six <i>sawars</i> and six camels were +stationed at Mushki-Chah.<a name="Pg_2-351" id="Pg_2-351"></a></p> + +<p>I left Mushki-Chah on January 21st at 3.30 +<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, my camels with loads having started some +hours previously, and our way lay for eight miles +due east, first over sand hills and undulations, +then on a perfectly straight and level track. To +the south we had a barren waste of flat desert. +We then veered east-south-east (110° b.m.), and +fifteen miles off turned slightly further to the +south-east (120° b.m.). To the north-north-east +we had a mountain range.</p> + +<p>On nearing Kundi we found tamarisk plentiful +and good grazing for camels. Some of the +tamarisk trees were 10 feet high. The march +was a very cold one, a north-north-west gale +blowing fiercely and penetrating right through +our clothes and flesh to the marrow of our +bones.</p> + +<p>Three wells of good water were found 1¼ +miles before reaching Kundi. The rest-house +was uninhabited and fast tumbling down. +In 21 miles 1,100 yards we had slightly risen +to 3,660 feet, and this point is one which +remains well impressed on one's mind, partly +on account of the splendid view obtained +of the Sultan Mountains to the north-east—a +gloomy black mass with the highest peak of a +light red colour. The Kuh-i-Sultan is a most +weirdly fantastic mountain range. Sir Charles +McGregor, who saw these mountains from a +distance, speaks of them as the "oddest-looking +mountains he had ever seen."</p> + +<p>But the best description is that given by +Major A. H. MacMahon, who was, I believe,<a name="Pg_2-352" id="Pg_2-352"></a> +the first European to explore the range. Approaching +it from the north he, too, was struck +by the grotesque shape of its numerous sharp +peaks; above all by the Neza-i-Sultan—"the +spear of the Sultan"—an enormous rocky pillar +of hard conglomerate, roughly resembling a slender +sugar-loaf with tapering summit, and precipitous +sides, that rise on the crest line of the +range.</p> + +<p>"The fissures," MacMahon says, "made by +rain and weather action down its sides give it +a fluted appearance from a distance. We expected +to find a high natural pillar, but were not +prepared for the stupendous size of the reality. +Judging from its width at the base, which is over +100 yards in diameter, the height must be no +less than from 500 to 800 feet. The Sultan, in +whose honour this range is named, is an ancient +mythical celebrity, who is said to be buried in +the vicinity of the mountains. His full name is +Sultan-i-Pir-Khaisar, and he is the patron saint +of Beluch robbers. Hence these mountains have +a reputation as a robber resort. The Sultan +Mountains abound in the assafoetida plant, and +in the summer months traders come in numbers +from Afghanistan to collect it."</p> + +<p>I was in a great hurry to return to England, +and could not afford the detour entailed by going +near enough to photograph the "Spear." Besides, +Major MacMahon gives a capital photograph +of it in the <i>Royal Geographical Society's +Journal</i>.</p> + +<p>At Kundi, a big Ziarat, with many trunks of<a name="Pg_2-353" id="Pg_2-353"></a> +tamarisk trees, some 10 feet high, supporting +bleached horns, has been erected to the Kuh-i-Sultan. +Hundreds of beautiful pieces of marble +and alabaster of all sizes, colours and shapes have +been deposited here, as usual, but the sand is fast +covering the whole Ziarat.</p> + +<p>From Kundi the track, which has come in a +south-east-east (120° b.m.) direction, now turned +sharply to north-east (60° b.m.). Ten high +mud and stone <i>neshans</i>—or <i>Tejia</i> (cairns) as they +are called by the Beluch—have been erected +to warn the traveller. Four curious mounds +with tufts of high tamarisk trees upon them are +to be seen at Kundi. There is fair grazing for +camels all along. One is specially attracted by +the peculiar stones corroded into all sorts of +shapes, strewn all over the ground.</p> + +<p>We made a double march on that day, and—barring +the quaint Sultan Mountains which we +saw all along—had but a very flat uninteresting +country all round.</p> + +<p>We arrived during the evening at Tretoh, having +been nineteen hours on the saddle. It was +bitterly cold at night, the drop in the temperature +being very great immediately after the sun +went down. At this station, too, the water +tasted very bad—almost undrinkable—but was +not necessarily unwholesome. We were glad +to get into the thana and light up a big fire in +the centre of one of the mud rooms, but no sooner +had we done this than it got so hot that I had to +find a cooler abode in the new bungalow in +course of construction, which had not yet a roof.<a name="Pg_2-354" id="Pg_2-354"></a></p> + +<p>It was always a marvel to me how the natives +could stand the great heat in the rooms with no +draught for the smoke and heat to get away. It +positively roasted one alive, but my men seemed +to revel in it. On the other hand they suffered +from the cold to a degree that was also unaccountable +to me. On many occasions I have +heard my camel-driver moan from pain in his +frozen toes and fingers, but, true enough, when +out in the open desert the wind was rather penetrating, +and his clothes, barring a waistcoat, consisted +of thin white cotton garments. Personally, +I never had occasion to make a change in my +tropical clothing (I could not if I had wanted +to), nor did I ever once have to use an overcoat. +But—I seldom know what it is to feel cold.</p> + +<p>We delayed our departure the next morning to +see if the gale would abate, but at 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we had +to venture out. One was rather at the mercy of +the wind on the hump of the camel. It did +blow! The wind hampered the camels greatly +and was a nuisance all round, as one could only +by an effort remain on the saddle. The flying +sand filled one's eyes and ears, and the wind +catching the brim of one's hat made such a hissing +noise that one had to find a more comfortable +headgear by wrapping up one's head in a +blanket.</p> + +<p>The desert was here absolutely flat, with some +grazing for camels (<i>kirri</i>). We were going north-east-east +(70° b.m.) amid low sand hillocks and +sand banks, and the Sultan Mountain still on our +left in all its glory. To the north-east (55° b.m.)<a name="Pg_2-355" id="Pg_2-355"></a> +we had another mountain mass lower than the +Sultan and not nearly so picturesque, and before +us, on going over a gentle incline some 35 ft. +above the level of the plain (about 13 miles +from Tretoh), three long rows of bright yellow, +flat-topped, crescent-shaped sand-hills stretching +for several miles from north to south were disclosed. +These three rows of barchans were +parallel, and at intervals of about from 300 +yards to 500 yards from one another. The +barchans averaged from 50 ft. to 100 ft. in +height. Another row of them stretched along +the foot of the mountain range to the north +and extended from north-west to south-east.</p> + +<p>The cause of these extensive parallel rows +of barchans was to be found in gaps in the hills +to the north between the Sultan, the next range, +and two intervening obstacles in the shape of a +low mound and a great rock, the sand being +blown through the interstices and gradually +accumulating in the plain on the south.</p> + +<p>On that march we saw a most extraordinary +effect of mirage. To the east (100° b.m.) the +peculiar flat-topped Gat (or Gut) Mountain, +which looked like a gigantic lamp-shade, could +be seen apparently suspended in the air. The +illusion was perfect, and most startling to any +one with teetotal habits. Of course the optical +illusion was caused by the different temperatures +in the layers of air directly over the earth's surface +and the one above it. Where the two layers +met they deviated at an angle, or practically +interrupted what would, under ordinary circum<a name="Pg_2-356" id="Pg_2-356"></a>stances, +be direct rays of vision. (The same +effect, in other words, as produced by placing +a stick vertically in water.) The real horizon +was obliterated, as well as the lower part of the +mountain, by the white haze caused by the warm +lower layer of air.</p> + +<p>Some nineteen miles from Tretoh, where the +hill range to the north became low, a few sand +hills were to be seen, then where another gap +existed in the range yet another long row of +barchans stretched southwards. A mile or so +beyond this spot a long sand and gravel bank +stretched across the plain from north-north-east to +south-south-west and near Chah Sandan another +similar bank existed, fifty feet high, parallel to +the first.</p> + +<p>At Chah Sandan (altitude 3,380 ft.) we were +most enthusiastically received by the <i>duffadar</i>, +who was politeness itself. The Beluch salutation +is somewhat lengthy. In the Ba-roh-iya or +Brahui language, as spoken in north Beluchistan +where I was travelling, it sounds thus:—"<i>Shar +joroz druakha joroz haire meretus me murev huaja +khana</i>," after which the persons greeting seize +each other's hands and raise them to the forehead, +bowing low. Inquiries follow about the +<i>mulk</i> or countries one has crossed on one's +journey, and whether the people have treated one +kindly.</p> + +<p>The <i>duffadar</i> at Chah Sandan was an Afghan, +Belind Khan by name, and had the following +good points about him. He was a most sportsmanlike +fellow; was very bright, civil and<a name="Pg_2-357" id="Pg_2-357"></a> +intelligent, and owned chickens that laid delicious +eggs. He possessed a beautiful dog to which +he was passionately attached, and he and his +brother had a greater capacity for tea than +almost any men I have known. Above all, +Belind Khan had intense admiration for the +British and what they did, and as for Captain +Webb-Ware, his superior officer, he pronounced +him to be the greatest "Bahadur" that ever +lived. "Even in my own country (Afghanistan)," +he exclaimed, raising his right hand in +the air, "there is no 'Bahadur' like him!"</p> + +<p>This was not pure flattery but it was truly +meant, and it was most pleasant to find that such +was the opinion, not only of Belind Khan, but of +every one of Captain Webb-Ware's subordinates +on the entire length of the road from the frontier +to Quetta.</p> + +<p>There is a <i>thana</i> of three rooms at Chah +Sandan and a Ziarat to the Sultan Mountain. I +took a photograph of Belind Khan making his +salaams in the Ziarat, the altar of which was +made of a pile of white marble pieces and +rounded stones with sticks on which horns and +a red rag had been fixed.</p> + +<p>Chah Sandan possessed three wells of excellent +water. The distance from Tretoh to Chah +Sandan was 23 miles 760 yards.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-358" id="Pg_2-358"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXXIV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The picturesque Gat mountain—Strange-looking mountains—Mirui—White +covered country—Sotag—Desolate shed at +Chakal—The <i>Karenghi rirri</i> deadly plant—The Mesjid or +Masit—Their characteristics—The religion of Beluch—Sects—Superstitions—The +symbol of evil—A knife "possessed"—A +Beluch's idea of a filter.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Due</span> east of Chah Sandan was the Gat mountain, +this time, as there was no mirage, duly +resting upon the desert. It was a most attractive +looking mountain, and quite one of the most +striking sights in the scenery upon the Nushki-Robat +road.</p> + +<p>Five miles from Chah Sandan we again struck +high, flat-topped sandbanks, and a great many +conical sand hills. Ten miles off we went +through a cut in the hills near which are to be +found a well of brackish water and a great many +palm trees, of two kinds (<i>Pish</i> and <i>Metah</i>). +Big tamarisks (<i>kirri</i>) were also abundant, and +there was good grazing for camels, <i>regheth</i> +being plentiful. Near the salt well stood a +gigantic palm tree.</p> + +<p>We had come east-north-east (70° b.m.) from +Chah Sandan, and from this, our nearest point to +the Gat mountain, the track turned east-south-east<a name="Pg_2-359" id="Pg_2-359"></a> +(110° b.m.). One really had to halt to look at +the Gat, it was so impressive. Two enormous +blocks of rock several hundred feet high, one, +roughly speaking, of a quadrangular shape (to +the north) and one rectangular (to the south), +were joined on the east side by a perpendicular +wall of solid rock. Up to about two-thirds of +the height of the mountain these huge blocks +had accumulations of debris and sand, forming +a slanting pad all round except on the west side, +where there was a sort of hollow recess.</p> + +<p>There was a large plain with good camel +grazing to the east-south-east, bounded from east +to south by a semicircle of low hills.</p> + +<p>After leaving Gat there was nothing of interest +on the march. Another extensive sand bank, +50 feet high, forming the eastern part of the +hilly semicircle above mentioned, was crossed, +then we were in a barren valley. Further on, +however, after going over yet another sand dune +(extending from north to south) we entered one +more plain, this time absolutely covered with low +palm trees. From this plain we began to rise in +order to cross the hill range that stood before us, +and here there were innumerable sand hills and +sand banks, the latter facing north.</p> + +<p>Near Mirui one found one's self among strange-looking +mountains, some like huge waves of +sand, debris, and shale; one to the left, a huge +flat-topped mass in horizontal well-marked strata, +while further on was a third, a most perfect +cone. Behind this to the south lay a mass of +lower pointed conical sand hills.<a name="Pg_2-360" id="Pg_2-360"></a></p> + +<p>Mirui being one of the more important stages +on the road, a most comfortable large bungalow +has been erected here, like the one at Robat, +with four rooms and four bath rooms, kitchens, +etc. The water is very good at this place; +there is a shop with the usual supplies for +caravans, and a staff consisting of a <i>jemadar</i>, +a <i>duffadar</i>, one postal moonshee, seven <i>sawars</i>, +four <i>hasildars</i>, one <i>havildar</i>. The bungalow at +Mirui is most picturesquely situated among the +quaint mountains, and the six-roomed <i>thana</i> +some little distance below, against the mountain +side, looks quite formidable. It not only has +high towers at the corners of the wall, but +possesses an additional watch tower erected on +the top of the mountain, commanding a fine +view of the country around. Before it, surrounded +by hills, spreads a valley from north to +south, which the track crosses in a south-south-west +direction among palms and plentiful high +tamarisks.</p> + +<p>The bungalow stood at an altitude of 3,500 +feet, the valley where the <i>thana</i> was situated was +one hundred feet lower (3,400 feet), and the +steep although not high pass by which we left +the valley 3,550 feet.</p> + +<p>A short zig-zag led us into a second valley +with a sand bank barring our way directly in +front to the south-east (125° b.m.), the direction +of the track. For a change we had high precipitous +cliffs on the north and a low range of +sand hills extending from north-north-east to +south-south-west. Two very lofty isolated peaks<a name="Pg_2-361" id="Pg_2-361"></a> +broke the monotony of the horizon line to the +north-east (to 70° and 80° respectively). Having +crossed a third and a fourth plain, two barren, +the other at the foot of a sandbank with plenty +of tamarisk, the track, which for a short distance +went east, turned suddenly to the north-east +(70° b.m.).</p> + +<p>We had now a great expanse of open country +before us with abundant tamarisk, palm trees, +and <i>eshwark</i>, which made capital grazing for +camels. Three high red mounds stood respectively +to the south-east, south, and south-west, +while almost north (350°) the two high pointed +conical peaks we had observed on the previous +march were again visible. On the south-east +there was quite a high mountain range.</p> + +<p>This was a region of sand banks, all facing +north, only one out of the lot spreading in a +south-south-west direction, and of semi-spherical +sand hills which were also numerous.</p> + +<p>On getting near Sotag the sandy ground was +so covered with gypsum that for some distance +it looked just as if it had snowed. The photograph +reproduced in the illustration gives a good +idea of the scenery in that part.</p> + +<p>Some three and a half miles from Sotag a gap +in the hills afforded a view of an extensive plain +to the south, with innumerable reddish-yellow +sand hills, and a range of high mountains far +away beyond. From this point the track rises +gently over an undulation about 88 feet higher +than the plain, and on the other side undulations +continue, and nothing whatever is to be seen<a name="Pg_2-362" id="Pg_2-362"></a> +except the same range of hills to the south, with +its peaks assuming pyramidical shapes toward +the eastern portion.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-089.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-089_th.jpg" alt="Ziarat at Chah Sandan. (Belind Khan Salaaming.)" title="Ziarat at Chah Sandan. (Belind Khan Salaaming.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Ziarat at Chah Sandan.</span> (Belind Khan Salaaming.)</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-090.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-090_th.jpg" alt="Desert covered with Gypsum, near Sotag." title="Desert covered with Gypsum, near Sotag." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Desert covered with Gypsum, near Sotag.</p> + +<p>We passed the salt well of Jujiki about half +way between the two stations, and arrived at the +desolate shed of Chakal at nine in the evening, +where the thatched roofs of two out of three of +the rooms had been torn down to supply fuel to +travellers. There is only a salt well at this place, +but some two miles off the road a well of good +water has been dug, near which a new bungalow +has been erected.</p> + +<p>But as we arrived late, having done a double +march—</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Distances showing double march"> +<tr><td align='left'>Mirui to Sotag</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>miles</td><td align='right'>1,320</td><td align='center'>yards</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sotag to Chakal</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>220</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center' colspan='4'>——————————</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Total</td><td align='right'>26</td><td align='center'>miles</td><td align='right'>1,540</td><td align='center'>yards</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>—and as I intended moreover continuing to +Dalbandin after three hours' rest, I did not avail +myself of the convenience. We had carried a +supply of good water with us. There was no +wood here nor grazing for camels, but both fuel +and food for the animals can be obtained at the +Bungalow.</p> + +<p>Chakal was at the identical altitude of Mirui, +3,600 feet.</p> + +<p>My camels with loads left at midnight, and +some two hours later I followed. This was a +most uninteresting march in a north-east by east +(70°) direction with sand hills on either side of +the track, and high distant mountains to the<a name="Pg_2-363" id="Pg_2-363"></a> +south—a red stretch of flat sand between extending +all along from north-east to south-west. +When there were no more sand hills we came to +sand banks, which made the track undulating +like a switchback railway.</p> + +<p>Our attention was drawn to a curious plant +with a fruit resembling small oranges lying upon +the ground and called by the natives <i>karenghi +rirri</i>. There were hundreds of these fruit about, +but Mahommed, who had great local botanical +knowledge, advised me not to eat them because +their poison was deadly, and we did not care to +experiment in order to test the accuracy of his +statement.</p> + +<p>All along this Robat-Nushki route one finds a +great many <i>Mesjids</i> (or <i>Masit</i>, as the word is +pronounced by the Beluch). The Mesjid or +Masit is a sort of temporary praying spot where +good Mussulmans say their prayers at sunrise or +sunset, and answers the purpose—if one may be +allowed the expression—of an open-air mosque! +The Mesjid may be simple or elaborate, small +or big, according to devoutness, patience and +materials at hand, but its most frequent shape is +circular, or at least more or less regularly curved, +and its material, stones, or if stones are not +obtainable, sand or mud banked up. Looking +to the west towards Mecca is a stone higher +than the others, and in the more elaborate +Mesjids, such as the one shown in the illustration, +a proper kneeling-place to fit the knees is made +on the western side, with a stone in the centre to +mark the exact direction of Mecca. A "revered<a name="Pg_2-364" id="Pg_2-364"></a> +tomb" is duly placed in the centre of the larger +Mesjids, and an entrance way into them bordered +with stones is always present. To enter the +Mesjid by stepping over the ledge from any +other side would be considered irreverent. The +interior is always cleared of all stones and made +as smooth as practicable.</p> + +<p>There are Mesjids just big enough for one +man, these being frequently made by caravan +men to say their prayers; and there are large +ones for the use of several people. The praying +spot to the west is, however, generally only big +enough for one at a time.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-091.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-091_th.jpg" alt="Circular Mesjid, with Tomb and Outer Kneeling Place." title="Circular Mesjid, with Tomb and Outer Kneeling Place." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Circular Mesjid, with Tomb and Outer Kneeling Place.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-092.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-092_th.jpg" alt="Mesjid on the Site where a Man had been Killed." title="Mesjid on the Site where a Man had been Killed." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Mesjid on the Site where a Man had been Killed.</p> +<p class="figcenter">(Between Kishingi and Morad Khan Kella.)</p> + +<p>Then there are the more ornamental constructions +which had a neatly made wall of white +marble enclosed in a case of black stones, a high +black pillar to the west and two small white +marble ones by its side. The entrance in this +case was to the east with a stone slab across it +which was raised when entering the Mesjid.</p> + +<p>One Mesjid, or more, are generally to be found +near burial places. Occasionally I have seen +large square or rectangular ones, but they are not +quite so common as those of a rounded shape. +In some cases the Mesjid consists of a mere semicircle +facing towards the west.</p> + +<p>The Beluch, as every one knows, is a Suni +Mussulman and nourishes a hatred for the Shia +sect, but although very observant of certain rites +pertaining to the religion of Mahommed, the +Beluch is not bigoted in religious matters, and +this is probably due to the fact that <i>mullahs</i>, +<i>saiyads</i>, <i>fakirs</i> or other such religious officials and<a name="Pg_2-365" id="Pg_2-365"></a> +fanatics are seldom to be encountered among the +Beluch in Northern Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>Far south in Makran matters are different; +the people are more fanatical, and several religious +sects, such as the <i>Rafais</i>—a sect which proves its +faith in the prophet by self-inflicted tortures—the +<i>Khwajah</i> and the <i>Zikris</i> are found, as well as the +"<i>Biadhiah</i>," who are despised as heretics by both +Suni and Shia Mussulmans, and who fully +reciprocate the hatred. Unlike other true +Mussulmans, these Biadhiahs indulge in intoxicants +and are very slack in religious observances.</p> + +<p>But the Brahuis—with whom I mostly came +in contact in the North—although not very +strict, are certainly most reverent and generally +not intemperate. They have no actual mosques +wherein to go and pray, but worship in the improvised +Mesjids which I have described. In fact, the +word <i>Mesjid</i> merely means "a place of worship."</p> + +<p>Superstition is generally rampant in people +leading a somewhat wild life of adventure. +Some of the legends of the good and evil <i>gins</i>, +or spirits and <i>peris</i>, fairies, are very quaint. The +belief in the magic power of spells and charms +is also deeply rooted.</p> + +<p>Captain Webb-Ware told me two rather +amusing instances of superstition. One day he +was out stalking in the hills near Dalbandin, +when he came across a snake (<i>ekis carinata</i>). +The Beluch shikars who were with him refused +to go on and sat down for half an hour waiting +for the evil influences—of which the snake was +a palpable symbol—to vanish.<a name="Pg_2-366" id="Pg_2-366"></a></p> + +<p>On another occasion one of his men dropped +his knife—a knife which, by the way, he had +found on the road. The Beluch got off his +camel and stalked the knife as it lay on the +ground, and when within a few feet of it he +let fly a stone at it—or as near it as he could. +This was, he explained, to hit and hurt the +"pal" which was in the knife, by which he +meant that the knife was "possessed," and a +positive proof of it lay in the fact that he had +dropped it on no less than three separate +occasions.</p> + +<p>There was a certain humour in the remark +made by a Beluch at Isa Tahir to Captain +Webb-Ware when he saw the captain's servant, +with an efficient filter, reduce the filthily slimy +water of the only local pool into water as clear +as crystal. He rushed to the captain in a state +of great concern and anxiety.</p> + +<p>"Sahib," he said, "do you know what your +servant is doing? He is taking <i>all</i> the colour, +<i>all</i> the strength, and <i>all</i> the smell out of the +water that you are going to drink!"</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-367" id="Pg_2-367"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXV" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXV"></a>CHAPTER XXXV</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Captain Webb-Ware, C.I.E.—The Nushki route—An excellent +track—Bungalows built and in course of construction—The +water—Postal service—Important Government concession—The +Nushki route and the railways—Hints to traders—Quaint +official formalities—Pilgrims and their ways—An +amusing incident.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> arrived very early at Dalbandin, the march +from Chakal being very short (18 miles, 190 +yards) and easy. Here I had the pleasure of +meeting Captain F. C. Webb-Ware, C.I.E., +Political Assistant at Chagai, and officer in +charge of the Nushki-Robat road. Not only +has this officer devoted all his time and energy +to making the road, but, being a man of means, +he has personally gone to considerable expense +to "push" the road and make it a success. It +would not have been easy to find a more +practical and sensible man to do the work, and, +considering the difficulties he had to encounter, +it is marvellous with what little expenditure he +has obtained such excellent results.</p> + +<p>It is all very well for the usual newspaper +critic—who generally does not know what he is +writing about—to complain of this and complain<a name="Pg_2-368" id="Pg_2-368"></a> +of that, and declare that something should have +been done in exactly the contrary way to the +way in which it is done. In regard to this +road, any one with any common sense must see +that all that could have been done has been, or +is being, done—and done well.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-093.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-093_th.jpg" alt="The Type of Thana and New Bungalow between Nushki and Robat." title="The Type of Thana and New Bungalow between Nushki and Robat." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Type of Thana and New Bungalow between Nushki and Robat.</p> + +<p>The road itself—for a desert road—is excellent +in every way as far as the frontier, and some +sort of shelter is to be found at every stage. Of +course the road has only just been opened and +all the arrangements for the accommodation of +travellers are not quite completed, but large +comfortable bungalows had already been erected—as +we have seen—at Robat, Mirui, and +Dalbandin, while smaller buildings of the same +type will shortly be completed at Mall, Kuchaki +Chah, Yadgar Chah, Sotag, and Chah Sandan. +In addition to these, the erection of bungalows +has been taken in hand at Chakal, Tretoh, +Mushki-Chah, Saindak, Kirtaka, and Mahommed +Raza Chah, and it was anticipated that all these +rest houses would be finished before the close +of 1902.</p> + +<p>Owing to the great increase in the traffic +upon the route, the accommodation at Mall, +Yadgar Chah, and Karodak, has been nearly +doubled, and two rooms added to the already +extensive <i>thana</i> at Dalbandin, while the Tretoh, +Mushki-Chah, and Mukak posts have been +much enlarged and strengthened.</p> + +<p>On the Persian territory the Vice-Consul in +Sistan has erected small shelters, which, although +necessarily not quite so luxurious as those under<a name="Pg_2-369" id="Pg_2-369"></a> +the direct control of the British authorities, are +yet quite good enough for any one to spend a +a night in. We have thus a complete belt of +rest-houses extending from Quetta to Sher-i-Nasrya +in Sistan.</p> + +<p>Every effort has been made to improve the +water supply upon the road, and new wells are +constantly being sunk. True, the water, all +along the route, is not of the best, but one does +not generally expect to find delicious sweet spring +water in a desert. One thing is, nevertheless, +certain, that the best has been made of given +circumstances. Barring the most trying section +of the route (in Beluchistan territory) between +Mukak and Mushki-Chah, where the water is +really foul, the majority of wells may be more or +less brackish, but, as I have said before, not +necessarily unwholesome. In fact, I have a firm +belief that brackish water is the water one should +drink in the desert to keep healthy, and is the +remedy provided by nature for the purpose of +balancing other ill-effects produced by travelling +over hot, sandy, dry, barren land. Brackish water, +however, should not be confounded nor classified +with dirty water.</p> + +<p>There are post offices at the principal stations, +such as Robat, Saindak, Mirui, Dalbandin and +Nushki, and a bi-weekly service links Robat +with Quetta, the time taken to convey letters +being now reduced to 100 hours. A Consular +postal service in connection with this continues +from Robat, <i>via</i> Sher-i-Nasrya, Birjand to +Meshed. There is a parcel-post service, on the<a name="Pg_2-370" id="Pg_2-370"></a> +very convenient "Value payable parcel system," +as far as Robat and Sistan; but from England +the Post Office will not take the responsibility of +insured parcels beyond Robat.</p> + +<p>The Government has granted a most important +concession—of great value to traders—by +which money can be remitted to or received +from either Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) or Birjand, +through the Consular Treasury, under the charge +of the Vice-Consul for Sistan.</p> + +<p>Messrs. McIver, Mackenzie, & Co., of Karachi, +and Mr. Duncan MacBean, of the Punjab Bank, +Quetta, are prepared to act as forwarding agents +for Indian and Persian firms, and the Quetta +Branch of the Punjab Bank is further in business +communication with the Imperial Bank of +Persia, which, as we have seen, has agencies in +the principal cities of West Persia and also in +Meshed.</p> + +<p>Another concession, most important to the +stimulation of trade by this overland route, has +been granted by the North Western Railway in +regard to goods despatched from Karachi to +Quetta for export to Persia by the Nushki-Robat +route. From the 1st of April, 1901, a rebate, +equal to one-third of the freight paid, was given +on all goods, such as tea, spices, piece-goods, iron, +kerosene oil, sugar, brass and copper, etc., booked +and carried from Karachi to Quetta for export +to Persia by the Sistan route. The usual charges +are to be paid on forwarding the goods, but on +producing a certificate from the Agency Office +at Quetta that the goods have actually been<a name="Pg_2-371" id="Pg_2-371"></a> +despatched to Persia, <i>via</i> Sistan, the amount of +the rebate is refunded.</p> + +<p>From the 1st of May, 1901, another concession +came into effect, allowing a similar +rebate of one-third of the actual freight paid on +all goods received at Quetta from Persia by the +Sistan route (a certificate from the Agency Office +at Quetta being required to prove the fact), and +despatched thence to Karachi or Kiamari, or to +North-western Railway stations in the Punjab +and North-west Province, or to stations on +connected lines.</p> + +<p>Merchants despatching goods to Persia by the +Nushki-route should be careful to have each of +the original invoices of their goods attested by +some qualified officer at the place from which +the goods are despatched. By doing this they +will find that their goods will be passed through +the Persian Customs at the frontier with no +trouble and no delay. The invoices should be +clearly written in the English or French +languages.</p> + +<p>The number of travellers along the Nushki-Sistan +route is gradually increasing, several +officers returning to England travelling by it; +but I was assured that I was the first European +who had travelled on that route in the opposite +direction, viz, from England to Quetta.</p> + +<p>Only British subjects and Persians, it is stated, +are allowed to travel on this route, and some +quaint instances of inconceivable official formality +on the part of the Government of India are cited. +For instance, a German was allowed to travel<a name="Pg_2-372" id="Pg_2-372"></a> +by the route from Quetta to Sistan, but another +German who wished at the same time to travel +from Sistan to Quetta was arrested at the frontier, +detained some two months in Sistan, and permission +refused.</p> + +<p>I myself had quite an amusing experience at a +certain station with a travelling police officer, +who was not aware of my coming, and seemed +in a great state of mind, fearing that I should +prove to be a Russian spy!</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-094.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-094_th.jpg" alt="The Nushki-Robat Track." title="The Nushki-Robat Track." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Nushki-Robat Track.</p> + +<p>The only thing to be regretted along this +route, and one which I think will be a perpetual +cause of friction and annoyance with the Persians +and Russians—as I am sure it would be to us +were we in their case—is that we should allow +pilgrims to use this trade route in order to visit +the sacred shrine of Imam Raza in Meshed. +The number is so fast increasing that it is +proposed, I believe, to provide special accommodation +for pilgrims at every stage between Quetta +and Robat.</p> + +<p>Now, there are pilgrims and pilgrims. Some +are no doubt well-to-do people and deserve to +be looked after; but the greater number are +decrepit, sickly fanatics, burdened with all sorts of +ailments, whose wish it is to go and die and be +buried in the vicinity of the sacred shrine. +Furthermore, not only do the living ones go and +breathe their last in Meshed (or more frequently +upon the road), but among their personal luggage +they try to bring over corpses of relations for +interment in the holy burial place. The passage +of corpses to Persia through Beluchistan is not<a name="Pg_2-373" id="Pg_2-373"></a> +permitted by the local government, but occasional +attempts are made to smuggle them +through, and it is not a very easy matter to +detect them, not even by the smell of the +corpses, which can be no worse than that of the +living pilgrims. Even at best these parties of +pilgrims are a miserable, half-decomposed lot, +with bundles of filthy rags. When anybody +dies on the road, attempts—generally successful—are +invariably made to bring the bodies along.</p> + +<p>That we have had, and still have, the plague +in India is a matter we cannot very well hide; +that the passage across the Beluchistan and +Persian deserts should be a sufficient disinfectant +as far as individuals go is also theoretically probable; +but I am not certain that the theory +would apply to the filthy rags and bedding. I +would not speak so feelingly had I not seen +these pilgrims myself.</p> + +<p>Now, if we choose to allow these creatures to +bring infection into other countries—and it must +be remembered that if they do go to the shrine it +is generally because they are infected with some +complaint or other, or actually for the purpose of +dying there—we ought not to grumble if the +Russians, who see their thickly populated territories +of Transcaspia threatened, enforce upon +the Persian officials the necessity of hampering +the progress of such parties towards Meshed. +Nor can we blame them if, when the Persian +authorities are unable to enforce stringent measures, +they take matters into their own hands, +whether in a strictly legal way or otherwise, in<a name="Pg_2-374" id="Pg_2-374"></a> +order to prevent these sickly hordes from coming +towards their frontier.</p> + +<p>I am sure that if the sacred shrine were in +British territory, and ailing Russian pilgrims +came over bringing bundles of badly-packed +dead relations with them, the outcry in this +country would be general, and we should soon +put a stop to it.</p> + +<p>As it is, the provocation to hinder them is +very great, while the benefit that we reap by +letting these wretches through is rather difficult +to detect; they are an expense to the Government +rather than otherwise, not to speak of the +endless bother and annoyance they give our +various officials on the road, for indeed, religious +people, whether Mussulman or Christian or +Buddhist, can make themselves a nuisance for +religion's sake. Moreover, our caravans, following +directly after these funereal parties, have +occasionally fared badly at the hands of the +alarmed natives.</p> + +<p>In Sistan, Major Benn was telling me an +amusing incident: one or two members of one +of these fanatical parties died at the Consulate; +the local Persian doctor pronounced it—or them—cases +of plague, and the natives were scared to +death for fear that the infection should spread; +and one day when Major and Mrs. Benn were +peacefully riding along the city wall, a number +of people with rifles collected upon the ramparts +and fired a volley with actual bullets over their +heads. It was explained afterwards that the +intention was not to cause the riders any harm<a name="Pg_2-375" id="Pg_2-375"></a> +but merely to drive away the "spirits of infection" +which hung over the Consul, who had been +with the pilgrims.</p> + +<p>There seems to be a belief that the intense cold +of the winter, the terrific heat of the summer, +and the torrential rains of the autumn, make the +Nushki route impracticable during the greater +part of the year, but nothing could be further +from the truth. One can travel on this route +comfortably at almost any time of the year, +except during the heavy rains, when the desert +becomes a swamp and makes it impossible for +camels to go on. In summer, of course, one has +to travel at night, and in winter it is pleasanter +travelling during the day.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-376" id="Pg_2-376"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXXVI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Beluch-Afghan boundary—Substantial advantages obtained—The +Afghans driven from Chagai—Who owns Beluchistan?—How +Beluchistan is subdivided—Treaties and +engagements with the Kahn of Kelat—The <i>Brahui</i> and +<i>Nhauri</i>—When British political connection with Kelat +began—Intrigue—The treaty of 1839—The treaty stolen—Kelat +stormed by the British—A revolution—Protection +of caravans—Treaty of 1841—At the death of Nasir Khan—Boundary +matters settled in 1887—A Brahui rebellion—British +mediation—A state of chaos—The Marris and +Bugtis—Reconciliation of the Sardars with the Khan of +Kelat—Treaty of 1876—British agents at the Khan's court—Railways +and telegraphs—Subsidies—British troops +stationed in the country—Major Sandeman, agent to the +Governor-General—The agreement of 1883—Transfer of +dues and tolls—The chiefship of Kharan—The chief of +Las Bela—Troublesome Marris—British Beluchistan—The +occupants of Zhob.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> details of how the British Government +came to make the Nushki-Robat road may +interest the reader.</p> + +<p>After the Afghan war was over, it was supposed +that our boundary extended as far north as the +river Halmund, but we let things slide for many +years and took no steps to extend our influence so +far, and the result was that the Amir of Afghanistan—who +very rightly regarded Chagai as a most<a name="Pg_2-377" id="Pg_2-377"></a> +important strategical position, in fact, almost the +key to the Halmund—took possession of the +place. In 1896 a commission was sent out to +define the Perso-Beluch frontier properly, and +Major MacMahon, a most thorough and conscientious +officer, was placed in charge of the +mission.</p> + +<p>On looking at the map, one might, if unaware +of certain important circumstances, be led rashly +to believe that the natural geographical boundary +between Beluchistan and Afghanistan is along the +course of the river Halmund, or else that it should +follow the watershed of the chain of mountains +extending, from west to east, from the Malek +Siah, the Lahr Kuh, the Kacha Kuh, Mirjawa or +Saindak Mountains, to the mountain mass extending +as far as the Sultan Mountain. One +cannot at first grasp why, when two such excellent +natural boundaries exist, the boundary has +been drawn right across the desert between the +Halmund and these ranges—where there is +nothing to mark a division except the whitewashed +pillar-posts put up by the boundary +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'commision'">commission</ins>.</p> + +<p>This is what would appear, but here is what +really happened. While we were taking no +trouble to spread our influence in that portion of +the country, the Afghans claimed as theirs a +considerable portion of what to-day makes part of +N. Beluchistan. A point which it is well not to +lose sight of is that, after the Sistan Mission of +1872, when General Sir Frederick Goldsmid, +assisted by General Sir Richard Pollock, acted as<a name="Pg_2-378" id="Pg_2-378"></a> +arbitrators between the Persian and Afghan +Governments, it was agreed that the Kuh-i-Malek-Siah +(mountains), close to where the +Ziarat has been erected, should mark the most +south-westerly point common to the two countries. +This point being given, when the Beluch-Afghan +Boundary Commission began its work in +March, 1894, they found that the Afghans +claimed a great deal more land as theirs than was +expected.</p> + +<p>The line of boundary to be defined from +Gomal to the Persian frontier was some 800 +miles, and during the two years which it took to +complete the laying down of the boundary line +the Mission is said to have had very great +trouble with the Afghan Commissioners.</p> + +<p>And here one can hardly forbear comparing +the magnificently thorough manner in which +this frontier was fixed, with the shoddy, confused +method in which the Perso-Beluch frontier was +"demarcated"—if the word can be used in this +case—by Sir Thomas Holdich at the same +epoch.</p> + +<p>In the case of the Afghan-Beluch frontier, +800 miles of frontier line was carefully laid down +under the direction of Captain (now Major) +A. H. MacMahon, to whom Great Britain may +be grateful for possessing to-day several hundred +square miles of land more than she would have +done; and, mark you, these additional square +miles are—in a way—strategically the most important +portion to us of Beluchistan. I am +referring to that zone of flat territory, north of<a name="Pg_2-379" id="Pg_2-379"></a> +the Mirjawa, Saindak and Sultan Mountains, +which forms a southern barrier to the Afghan +desert, and along a portion of which we have +now built the Nushki-Robat route.</p> + +<p>Strategically, more particularly if a railway is +to be constructed, the advantages in gaining that +strip of land on the north side of the mountainous +region cannot be over-estimated, and +only a fearless, but extremely tactful, well-informed +and, above all, able officer like MacMahon +could have scored such an unexpected +success against the very shrewd Afghan Commissioners. +The latter well knew the political +value of the concession, and so did the Amir at +Cabul—who, angered at hearing of the advantages +gained by the British Commissioners for +their own country, is said to have treated his +representatives in a summary way on their return +to the Afghan capital.</p> + +<p>But the line of boundary was laid in an +unmistakable manner. The final agreements and +really <i>accurately</i> drawn maps were signed on +May 14th, 1896, by both the Afghan and +British Commissioners, and there was no going +back on what had been done.</p> + +<p>One of the important results of this Boundary +Commission was that we definitely drove the +Afghans out of Chagai, north of which place +the frontier now extends eastwards to the Sarlat +Mountains. The first thing that directed attention +to these remote regions was Nushki, a little +district some 90 miles from Quetta—a place +most conveniently situated for strategical and<a name="Pg_2-380" id="Pg_2-380"></a> +trade purposes. This was an outlying portion of +the Khan of Kelat's territory.</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact these people were always +fighting among themselves; they had a bitter +enmity with one another, and their feuds had +accumulated on an ever increasing scale for +centuries. They merely acknowledged the +Khan's authority when it suited their ends.</p> + +<p>The Government first requested the Khan or +Kelat to keep the district in order, being a +frontier district, not far from the Afghan boundary, +and notified him that trouble there might +involve trouble with the British Government. +The Khan, however, was helpless, and the +ultimate result was that the Government came +to terms with the Khan and agreed to give him +a quit rent of 9,000 rupees a year—a sum much +larger than he ever got out of it for himself—and +took over Nushki from him.</p> + +<p>One question frequently asked is: "Who +owns Beluchistan?" To which one might +almost answer: "Yes, who does?"</p> + +<p>Like Afghanistan, Nepal, and other such +buffer states, Beluchistan is going through a +somewhat slow but sure process of absorption. +Beluchistan is a mere expression of political +geography, and the country called by that name +has on the west a semi-mythical boundary with +Persia; on the north a real boundary with +Afghanistan; to the south the Arabian Sea, +and to the west, the Brahuic and Lukhi Mountains, +bordering with Sindh and the lower +Dejarath.<a name="Pg_2-381" id="Pg_2-381"></a></p> + +<p>Beluchistan may be subdivided as follows:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>British Beluchistan, with the assigned districts +of Quetta and the Bolan; territories +under the immediate rule of the +Khan of Kelat.</p> + +<p>Sarawan and Thalawan, the lands belonging +to the two leading Brahui clans.</p> + +<p>The Chiefship of Las Bela.</p> + +<p>Makran, Kharan, and the country of the +Beluch tribes, such as the Marris and +Bugtis, along the Punjab and Sind +borders.</p> + +<p>Bori and Zhob.</p></div> + +<p>We have certain treaties, engagements and +Sanads with the Khan of Kelat and the other +chiefs, and the country—again I have to use a +paradoxical expression—may be regarded as a +sort of "dependent independent" state. I can +find no better way of describing it. We have +bought up all the rights held by the chiefs that +were worth buying for our purposes, and while, +theoretically, the country is supposed to be merely +under our "sphere of influence," we might with +our fast-absorbing qualities practically consider it +absolutely our own.</p> + +<p>The Brahui Khan of Kelat is the most powerful +ruler in Beluchistan, and the city of Kelat +may be looked upon as the Beluch capital of +Beluchistan. Quetta, of course, is the capital of +British Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>The Beluch may be roughly divided into two +great classes, the <i>Brahui</i> and the <i>Nharui</i>, the<a name="Pg_2-382" id="Pg_2-382"></a> +latter to be subdivided again into the <i>Rinds</i> and +the <i>Numris</i>. These classes, however, are again +to be split up into a great many tribes of different +names.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-095.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-095_th.jpg" alt="A Beluch Family." title="A Beluch Family." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Beluch Family.</p> + +<p>The meaning of the word <i>Brahui</i> is said to be +"inhabitants of the desert," and of <i>Nharui</i> "men +of the plains." The Nharui profess to be of +Arab origin, and to have come from the west; +and they despise the idea that they are akin to +the Afghans or the Turkomans. Their features +and habits would support this view, and their +language undoubtedly bears traces of strong +western influence if not of actual western origin. +Their being such much finer specimens of men +than the average Persians, may be accounted for +by the fact that during the Arab invasion only +the fittest and finest survived to get as far as +this, and that of these men the Beluch are the +present descendants.</p> + +<p>Like all nomads the Beluch are most wonderful +linguists. I met a great many men who knew +three, four or five languages, such as Brahui, +Nharui, Persian, Afghan, and even Hindustani, +and on experiment they showed remarkable +facility for picking up and correctly retaining +words of any foreign language.</p> + +<p>The theory that the Brahui—the most +numerous class in Beluchistan—are Tartar +mountaineers is, to my mind, incorrect. They +believe themselves to be the aboriginal people +of Beluchistan, and this, I think, is more likely +the case. Their language is quite different from +any of the Nharui dialects. The Nharui tribes<a name="Pg_2-383" id="Pg_2-383"></a> +are much given to raids and warfare, and even +last year, when I was going through Beluchistan, +a small war had just been settled by a British +force, sent to suppress the rebels, in conjunction +with a Persian force from Kerman on the other +side.</p> + +<p>I cannot speak of the southern tribes as I did +not visit them, but the Brahui with whom I +came in contact, although very fond of a life of +adventure, I invariably found extremely gentlemanly, +hospitable and dignified in every way. +They were men of a splendid type who, +combined determined bravery with the quietest, +softest, most considerate and graceful manner.</p> + +<p>The Khan of Kelat is the most powerful ruler, +and with him we have several important treaties. +From the time of Abdullah Khan, in the +eighteenth century, Kelat had been a state +independent of the Delhi Empire, and had +incorporated several provinces. To understand +fully the evolution of Beluchistan into its present +condition I will give a hasty historical review of +the most important occurrences.</p> + +<p>The political connection of the British +Government with Kelat commenced during +the time of the grandson of Nasir Khan, Mehrab +Khan, a weak ruler who became Khan in 1819. +He was disliked by the chiefs of the various +tribes for being under the influence of a man of +low extraction called Daud Mahommed, for +whom Fateh Mahommed, the hereditary +Minister, was sacrificed. Fateh's son, Naib +Mulla Mahommed Hasan, however, murdered<a name="Pg_2-384" id="Pg_2-384"></a> +the intruder and was himself placed in the +position his father should have occupied, but his +hatred for the Khan never ceased to crave for +revenge. In 1838 this treacherous Minister, in +the Khan's name, but without his knowledge, +incited the tribes to rise and harm the British +troops in their march to restore Shah Shujia to +his dominions.</p> + +<p>Sir Alexander Burns had to be deputed to +Kalat to prevent hostility and attempt to negotiate +a treaty. The treaty contained the following +stipulations.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + +<p>"(Art. 1.) The descendants of Nasir Khan, as +well as his tribe and sons, shall continue in future +to be masters of the country of Kelat, Kachki, +Khorstan, Makran, Kej, Bela and the port of +Soumiani, as in the time of the lamented Ahmad +Shah Durani.</p> + +<p>"(Art. 2.) The English Government will +never interfere between the Khan, his dependants +and subjects, and particularly lend no assistance +to Shah Nawaz Fateh Khan, and the descendants +of the Mahabbatzai branch of the family, but +always exert itself to put away evil from his +house. In case of H. M. the Shah's displeasure +with the Khan of Kelat, the English Government +will exert itself to the utmost to remove the +same in a manner which may be agreeable to +the Shah and according to the rights of the +Khan.</p> + +<p>"(Art. 3.) As long as the British Army<a name="Pg_2-385" id="Pg_2-385"></a> +continues in the country of Khorasan, the British +Government agrees to pay to Mehrab Khan the +sum of 150,000 of Company's rupees from the +date of this engagement by half yearly instalments.</p> + +<p>"(Art. 4.) In return for this sum the Khan, +while he pays homage to the Shah and continues +in friendship with the British nation, agrees to +use his best endeavours to procure supplies, +carriage and guards to protect provisions and +stores going and coming from Shikarpur by +the route of Rozan Dadar, the Bolan pass, +through Shal to Kuchlak from one frontier to +another."</p> + +<p>With assurances of fidelity to the Saddozai +family and friendship to the British Government—and +stipulation that all supplies and carriage +obtained from the Khan must be paid for +"without hesitation"—the treaty was duly concluded +on March 28th, 1839.</p> + +<p>Everything seemed satisfactory and the Khan +promised to visit Quetta to pay his salaams to +Shah Shujia. Sir Alexander Burnes, who had +preceded him, was robbed on the way of the draft +of the treaty signed by the Khan. Treacherous +Mulla Mahommed Hasan did not fail to impress +upon the British that the Khan had given +directions to have the treaty stolen, and had, +furthermore, prevented Mehrab from proceeding +to Quetta. The hostility of the Khan being +evident, it was resolved to send a punitive expedition +to Kelat to give the Khan a lesson.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of November, 1839, the town<a name="Pg_2-386" id="Pg_2-386"></a> +was stormed and taken by a detachment of +General Wiltshire's brigade, Mehrab Khan was +killed and his son fled, while the Khan's Minister +was made prisoner and his treachery proved.</p> + +<p>Shah Nawaz Khan—a youth of fourteen, a +direct descendant in the male line from Mahabat +Khan—was set up by the British as the future +Khan of Kelat. The provinces of Sarawan and +Kach Gandava were annexed to the dominions +of the Amir of Afghanistan.</p> + +<p>Mehrab's son, Nasir Khan, the rightful successor +to the rule of Kelat, headed a revolution; +Shah Nawaz was deposed, the British representative +at Kelat was killed, and Nasir Khan was +eventually established in power by the British, +the two provinces restored to him, and a new +treaty concluded with him on October 6th, +1841.</p> + +<p>This treaty acknowledged Nasir Khan and his +descendants the vassals of the King of Cabul; +allowed if necessary, the Honourable Company's +or Shah Shujia's troops to be stationed in any +positions they deemed advisable in any part +of his territory; and declared that a British +resident officer's advice should always be followed. +Caravans into Afghanistan from the Indus as well +as from Soumiani port were to be protected from +attacks, and no undue exactions imposed on +them; the British Government undertook to +afford Nasir Khan protection in case of attack; +while Nasir Khan bound himself to provide for +the support of Shah Nawaz whom he had +deposed.<a name="Pg_2-387" id="Pg_2-387"></a></p> + +<p>This treaty became useless after the retirement +from Cabul, and it was found necessary to +negotiate a new agreement dated 4th of May, +1854, which annulled the treaty of October 6th, +1841, enjoined perpetual friendship between the +British Government and the Khan of Kelat, his +heirs and successors, and bound Nasir Khan and +successive Khans "to oppose to their utmost +all enemies of the British Government with +whom he must act in subordinate co-operation, +and not enter, without consent, into negotiations +with foreign States."</p> + +<p>British troops might occupy, if necessary, any +position they thought advisable in the Kelat +territory, and British subjects and merchants from +Sindh or the coast to Afghanistan were to be +protected against outrage, plunder and exactions. +A transit duty, however, was to be imposed at +the rate of six rupees on each camel-load from +the coast to the northern frontier, and 5 rupees +from Shikarpur to the same frontier.</p> + +<p>To aid Nasir Khan, his heirs and successors, +in the fulfilment of these obligations, and on condition +of faithful performance of them, the +British Government bound itself to pay to Mir +Nasir Khan, his heirs and successors, an annual +subsidy of 50,000 Company's rupees. If, however, +the conditions required were not fulfilled +year by year the Government would stop the +payment of the annual subsidy.</p> + +<p>When Nasir Khan died in 1857, his brother, +his son, and his half-brother claimed the succession, +and the latter, Khudadad Khan, a boy<a name="Pg_2-388" id="Pg_2-388"></a> +of ten, was elected by the chiefs; but had it not +been for the support given him by the British +Government, who for four successive years paid +him an additional 50,000 rupees besides the +50,000 stipulated in the agreement, in order to +help him to suppress the rebellious Marris tribe, +he could not have maintained his position.</p> + +<p>The leading Kelat chiefs, dissatisfied with their +ruler, elected Sherdil Khan, Khudadad's cousin, +as Khan of Kelat, but he was murdered the +following year, 1864, and the banished ruler +reinstated in his former position. Previous to +his banishment, in 1862, a proper agreement was +signed defining the boundary line between British +India and the Khan's territory, but it was not +till 1887 that matters regarding it were absolutely +settled.</p> + +<p>One thing may be said for the Beluch, and +that is that, barring a few squabbles, they have +in the main been friendly and faithful towards +the British.</p> + +<p>On February 20th and March 23rd, 1863, a +convention was entered into with the Khan +containing an additional clause for the extension +of a telegraph line through such of his dominions +as lie between the western boundary of +the province of Mekran under the feudatory +rule of the Jam of Beyla and the eastern +boundary of the territory of Gwadur, for the +protection (only) of which line, and those employed +upon it, the Khan was to receive an +annual payment of 5,000 rupees, the whole sum +to be expended among the chiefs and people<a name="Pg_2-389" id="Pg_2-389"></a> +through whose country the line passed. It was +particularly stipulated that the sites on which +British Government buildings were to be erected +should remain the property of the Khan.</p> + +<p>Constant risings took place during the rule of +Khudadad, and the Brahui chiefs combined in +an open rebellion in 1871. The Khan, being +unable to suppress the rising, demanded aid of +the British. A mediation took place in Jacobabad, +their confiscated lands were restored to the +Sardars, the allowances which they customarily +received in the time of Mir Nasir Khan the +younger were again granted, and the Sardars +on their side had to return all the property +plundered.</p> + +<p>A state of chaos followed this arrangement, +the Khan ceased to take an interest in the +administration of his country, caravans were +constantly attacked and robbed, raids were frequent, +and no compensation was ever paid for +losses sustained. The Political Agent had to +withdraw from Kelat, and in 1854 the payment +of the subsidy was withheld until the Khan +should stand by his agreement and restore order.</p> + +<p>An attempt was made to keep quiet the +Marris and Bugtis frontier tribes by additional +payments to the chiefs in the name of the Khan, +but their attitude was uncertain. Constant +attacks occurred on the frontier and a state or +absolute anarchy reigned in the Khan's country, +when Captain Sandeman was despatched in 1875 +as a special Agent for the Government to attempt +to bring about a reconciliation between<a name="Pg_2-390" id="Pg_2-390"></a> +the Khan and the Sardars. At a Darbar held +at Mastung in July, 1876, an official reconciliation +actually took place between the Khan and +the leading Brahui chiefs. On the 8th of December +of that same year the Khan was received +by the Viceroy of India at Jacobabad, and a new +treaty was concluded, which was the actual +foundation of the Beluchistan Agency.</p> + +<p>The new treaty renewed and reaffirmed the +treaty of 1854, and while the Khan of Kelat +and his successors and Sardars bound themselves +faithfully to observe the provisions of Article 3 +of that treaty, viz., "to oppose all enemies of +the British Government, and in all cases to act +in subordinate co-operation with the British +Government; the British Government on its +part engaged to respect the independence of +Kelat and to aid the Khan, in case of need, in +the maintenance of a just authority and the protection +of his territories from external attacks."</p> + +<p>British Agents with suitable escorts were in +future to reside permanently at the Court of the +Khan and elsewhere in the Khan's dominions, +and a representative of the Khan would in future +be accredited to the Government of India.</p> + +<p>The British Agent at the Court of the Khan +would, in case of dispute with the Sardars, use +his influence to bring about an amicable settlement, +and if unsuccessful, the dispute was to be +submitted to arbitration. At the request of the +Khan and of the Sardars, and "in recognition of +the intimate relations existing between the two +countries, the British Government (by Article 6<a name="Pg_2-391" id="Pg_2-391"></a> +of Treaty) assented to the request of H.H. the +Khan for the presence of a detachment of British +troops in his country, on condition that the +troops should be stationed in such positions as +the British Government might deem expedient +and be withdrawn at the pleasure of the Government."</p> + +<p>The agreement further provided for the construction +of railways and telegraphs through the +territories of the Khan, and for free trade +between the State of Kelat and British territory, +subject to certain conditions for the mutual protection +of fiscal interests.</p> + +<p>The annual subsidy of the Khan's successor +was increased by this treaty to 100,000 rupees, +plus 20,500 rupees annually for the establishment +of posts and development of traffic along +the trade routes in a manner agreeable to the +British Government.</p> + +<p>In compliance with the agreement, British +troops were stationed at Shalkot (Quetta) and +Mittri, and on February 21st, 1877, Major +Sandeman was appointed Agent to the Governor-General, +with three assistants, the headquarters +to be in Quetta. Afterwards the territories, +under the political control of the Agent, were +subdivided into distinct Agencies of which Kelat +was one. During the Afghan war the Khan +behaved most loyally towards the British.</p> + +<p>Further developments necessitated a fresh +agreement signed on June 8th, 1883, by which +the Khan of Kelat made over the entire management +of the Quetta district and Niabat absolutely,<a name="Pg_2-392" id="Pg_2-392"></a> +and with all the rights and privileges, as well as +full revenue, civil and criminal jurisdiction, and +all other powers of administration, to the British +Government, the agreement to take effect from +April 1st, 1883, on condition that, in lieu of the +annual surplus of revenue hitherto paid to the +Khan, the British <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Goverment'">Government</ins> should from +March 31st, 1884, pay a fixed annual rent of +Rs.25,000, without deductions for cost of administration.</p> + +<p>The Khan transferred all his rights to levy +dues or tolls on the trade in either direction +through the Bolan Pass, as well as from Kachi to +Khorassan, and to and from British India and the +districts of Sibi, Quetta and Pishin.</p> + +<p>For the latter concession the British Government +paid the Khan the annual sum of Rs.30,000 +net, plus a fixed yearly sum to be paid by the +Viceroy of India to the Sarawan and Kurd Sardars +for their services in the Pass. The full civil, +criminal jurisdiction, and all other powers of administration +within the limits of the said Pass, +and within the land purchased by the British, +were also ceded to the British Government.</p> + +<p>The population of the State of Kelat, including +Kharan and Makran, was estimated by +Aitchison at about 220,500 souls—the area at +106,000 square miles.</p> + +<p>The Chiefship of Kharan lies along the northern +border of the State of Kelat, roughly from near +Nushki, west-south-west to Panjur. The principal +tribes are the Naushirwanis, and their Chiefs +have at various epochs acknowledged the suze<a name="Pg_2-393" id="Pg_2-393"></a>rainty +of the Khan of Kelat, and the rulers of +Persia and Afghanistan respectively. In 1884 +Sardar Azad Khan acknowledged allegiance to +the Khan of Kelat, and in 1885 a settlement was +made with him by which he undertook to do +certain tribal services in consideration of an +<ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'annul'">annual</ins> payment of Rs.6,000. Besides Kharan +the Sardar holds lands in Panjgur, and lays claim +to Jalk, Dizak, and Kohak, the two first being +within the Persian boundary.</p> + +<p>We have other important agreements, such as +the one (1861) with the Chief of Las Bela for +the protection of the telegraph, for which he +receives a subsidy of Rs.8,400 a year; and a +number of agreements with the various chiefs of +Makran, mostly relating also to the protection of +the telegraph line with subsidies or allowances to +each chief.</p> + +<p>To the troublesome Marris, a tribe occupying +the country from the Nari river and the outskirts +of the Bolan as far as the plain of Sham near the +Punjab boundary to the east, allowances are paid +directly for tribal services and for good behaviour. +These people have given considerable +trouble on several occasions, but are now friendly.</p> + +<p>A petroleum concession was ceded by Sardar +Mehrulla Khan to the British Government for +an annual cash payment.</p> + +<p>The affairs of British Beluchistan (Pishin, Sibi +and dependencies) are too well known for me to +refer to them again beyond what I have already +mentioned in these pages. Till 1878 British +Beluchistan formed part of the territories of<a name="Pg_2-394" id="Pg_2-394"></a> +Afghanistan, and was occupied by British troops +during the Afghan war. By the treaty of Gandamak +its administration was put into the hands +of British officers, but the surplus revenue was +paid to the Amir at Cabul. The control of the +Khyber and Michui Passes was also retained. In +1887, however, the district was incorporated +with British India, and is now known as the +province of British Beluchistan.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-096.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-096_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Huts thatched with Palm Leaves and Tamarisk." title="Beluch Huts thatched with Palm Leaves and Tamarisk." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Huts thatched with Palm Leaves and Tamarisk.</p> + +<p>An agreement of submission and allegiance +was made by the Maliks of Zhob, Bori and the +Muza Khal, and Sardar Shahbaz Khan, on +November 22nd, 1884, and they further undertook +to pay a fine of Rs.22,000, to put a stop to +further raiding in British territory, and raise no +opposition to British troops being stationed in +Zhob and Bori. The occupation of Zhob took +place in 1889-90, when the Somal Pass was +opened up, and the tribes intervening between +the Zhob and the Punjab in the Suliman range +were subsequently added to the district.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> See Treaties, Engagements and Sanads. Aitchison, Office +Superintendent Government Printing, Calcutta.</p></div><p> </p> +</div> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-395" id="Pg_2-395"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXXVII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The evolution of Nushki—The Zagar Mengal tribe—Tribal +feuds—Competition in trade—Venturesome caravans—Pasand +Khan—Dalbandin and its geographical situation—Game +big and small—Dates—A famous Ziarat—A Beluch +burial ground—Preparing corpses for interment—How +graves are cut into the ground—Beluch marriages—Beluch +thoughtfulness towards newly married couples—A mark of +respect.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> given a general sketch of the agreements +with the principal chiefs we will now return to +matters relating to the most important point, the +pivot, as it were, of our route—Nushki.</p> + +<p>When Nushki was taken over by the British +Government, the leading tribe in the district +was the Zagar Mengal, a Brahui tribe. They +had settled in Nushki approximately a century or +150 years ago, and were a most powerful tribe, supposed +to number about 9,000, a large proportion +of whom lived in Registan (country of sand), +to the north and mostly north-east of Nushki +across the Afghan frontier. The Zagar Mengal +Sardar was in Nushki itself, and he had a right of +levying what is termed in Beluch, <i>Sunge</i> (a transit +due) on all merchandise passing through Nushki. +Foreseeing how such a right would interfere with +trade, the British Government came to terms<a name="Pg_2-396" id="Pg_2-396"></a> +with the Sardar, by which, instead of his transit +dues, he undertook what is called in Beluchistan +a <i>noukri</i> or service (old custom by which a man +supplies a number of <i>sawars</i> and is responsible +for them).</p> + +<p>The next thing was to settle all the tribal feuds. +Three or four tribes were at war. Cases were +carefully inquired into and settled according to +Beluch law, through the medium of a tribal +<i>jirga</i>, a council of elders. One case led to +another and eventually all were settled up to +everybody's satisfaction.</p> + +<p>In the meantime traders from Shikarpur, +from Quetta, and Kelat, began to be attracted +to Nushki; a bazaar was started and is fast growing +from year to year. One hundred thousand +rupees have already been spent on it, with the +result that a number of competing traders came +in. Competition resulted in good prices, which +further attracted trade, first from the districts to +the north in the immediate vicinity of Nushki, +and later from further and further afield.</p> + +<p>The name of Nushki—practically unknown a +few years ago—is at present well known everywhere, +and the place has, indeed, become quite +an important trade centre. From Nushki, as we +have seen, a chain of posts, manned by local +Beluch levies, was pushed west as far as Robat on +the Persian frontier. Even as late as 1897 trade +in these parts was limited to a few articles of +local consumption, and Persian trade was represented +by a stray caravan from Sistan that had +forced its way to Nushki and frequently lost men,<a name="Pg_2-397" id="Pg_2-397"></a> +camels and goods on the way. The venturesome +caravans seldom numbered more than one or two +a year, and were at the mercy of a Mamasani +Beluch called Pasand Khan, who lived in Sistan +and levied blackmail on such caravans as came +through. This man was well acquainted with +all the marauders who haunted the stretch +of country south of the Halmund between +Sistan and Chagai. Pasand Khan levied +at the rate of twenty krans (about 8s. 4d.) +per camel, and saw the caravans in comparative +safety as far as Chagai, from which point they +were left to their own devices and had to force +their way through to Quetta as best they could.</p> + +<p>Next to Nushki along the route, Dalbandin—owing +to its geographical situation, its ample +supply of good water and good grazing—is +probably the most important spot, and may +one day become quite a big place. There is +direct communication from this spot to Chagai +(and Afghanistan), Robat, Ladis, Bampur, Kharan, +the Arabian Sea, Charbar, Gwadur, Ormarah, +Soumiani and Quetta. Even as things are now, +Dalbandin is a somewhat more important place +than any we had met on coming from Robat, +with a very large <i>thana</i> and a couple of well-provided +shops. Captain Webb-Ware's large +camp made it appear to us men of the desert +quite a populous district. There was excellent +water here and good grazing for camels, while +on the hills close by ibex shooting was said to be +good. Gazelles (<i>Chinkara</i> and Persian gazelle), +both called <i>ask</i> in Beluch, are to be found in the<a name="Pg_2-398" id="Pg_2-398"></a> +neighbourhood of this place, and wild asses +(<i>ghorkhar</i>) nearer Sahib Chah. <i>Katunga</i> (sand +grouse), <i>sisi</i>, <i>chickor</i>, a few small bustards +(<i>habara</i>), and occasionally ducks are to be seen +near the water, but taking things all round there +is little on the road to repay the sportsman who +is merely in search of game.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-097.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-097_th.jpg" alt="Circular Ziarat With Stone, Marble and Horn Offerings." title="Circular Ziarat With Stone, Marble and Horn Offerings." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Circular Ziarat With Stone, Marble and Horn Offerings.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-098.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-098_th.jpg" alt="Ziarat with Tomb showing Stone Vessels." title="Ziarat with Tomb showing Stone Vessels." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Ziarat with Tomb showing Stone Vessels.</p> + +<p>The spacious rest-house at Dalbandin was +quite palatial, with actual panes of glass in all +the windows, mats on the floor, folding chairs +to sit upon, tables and Indian bedsteads. Thanks +to the kind hospitality of Captain Webb-Ware, +I had a most pleasant and instructive day's rest +here, and nearly made myself sick by greedily +eating irresistible Beluch dates, the most delicious +it has ever been my luck to taste. These dates +are very carefully prepared in earthen jars with +honey, and they say that only one date—the +best—is picked from each tree. No description +could ever come up to their delicate flavour.</p> + +<p>There is a famous Ziarat a couple of miles +from Dalbandin which well repays a visit. The +larger Ziarat itself is circular, 25 feet in +diameter, with a mud and stone wall 4 feet high +round it. It has a door to the east and a tomb +to the west. A bundle of sticks is laid outside +the wall, and another much larger, with red and +white rags upon it, at the head of the tomb, the +latter being covered as usual with pieces of white +marble and round stones. At the head of the +grave near the upright sticks was a large stone +with holes in the centre, and also a number of +wooden drinking cups, masses of horns, sticks,<a name="Pg_2-399" id="Pg_2-399"></a> +whips, ends of broken bottles, bits of rope, etc. +These fragments of civilization hardly added to +its picturesqueness. The tomb lay from north +to south—a very curious fact, for, as a rule, the +head of the tomb in other Ziarats was to the +west. The tomb, however, lay in the western +portion of the Ziarat circle. The enclosing +wall was adorned with horns of sacrificed goats, +and, in fact, outside to the south was the +sacrificial spot with some large slabs of stone +smeared with blood, and the usual upright +sticks, but no rags appended to them. It had, +nevertheless, some decoration of horns.</p> + +<p>A second Ziarat was to be found on the top +of the hill—generally these Ziarats go in couples, +the principal one on the summit of a hill, the +other at the foot, the latter for the convenience +of travellers who have not the time or the +energy to climb to the higher sacred spot,—and +this Ziarat was 45 feet long also with a tomb—this +time of black rounded stones—with an +upright white slab of marble. The wall of +black stones was 1½ feet high. Below this, +to the south, was a third smaller oval Ziarat, +20 feet long, 12 feet wide, with many offerings +of horns perched on poles to the west, and +a heap of fancy stones, together with some +implements such as a mortar, pestle, and cups. +A fourth Ziarat, very small, with a mud tomb +on which two mill stones had been deposited, +was a little further on and had a solitary rag +flying.</p> + +<p>Near these Ziarats was an extensive Beluch<a name="Pg_2-400" id="Pg_2-400"></a> +burial-ground, to which bodies were brought +from very great distances for interment. There +was a large rectangular Mesjid, the first I had +seen of that shape, at the western point of the +graveyard, and three smaller ones at the other +corners, and the graves were very nice and tidy, +formed generally of fragments of yellow marble, +a high stone pillar at the head and one at the +foot, and little chips of marble along the upper +centre of the grave. Others more elaborate had +a neat edge and centre line of black stones and +coloured end pillars, while some consisted of a +pile of horizontal sticks with an upright one at +each end.</p> + +<p>The bodies of more important people, such as +chiefs, were given larger tombs, often very gaudy +and of a prismatic shape, made of myriads of +bits of crystal within a black border of stones. +Occasionally a trench was dug round the graves.</p> + +<p>It was interesting to note that here, too, as on +the Kuh-i-Kwajah, one saw "family graves" +which, although not in actual compartments like +those on the Sistan mountain, were, nevertheless, +secluded from the others within a low boundary +stone wall. The prismatic graves seldom rose +more than 1½ feet above ground, but the semi-spherical +tumuli which marked some of the +more important burial places were from 3½ to +4 feet high. These tumuli were either of mud +or of large smooth pebbles, and generally had no +pillars. One or two, however, had a pillar to +the west.</p> + +<p>To the east of the graveyard the graves which<a name="Pg_2-401" id="Pg_2-401"></a> +seemed of a more recent date had sticks at each +end instead of stone pillars, and these were connected +by a string to which, halfway between +the sticks, hung a piece of wood, a ribbon, or a +rag. The meaning of this I could not well +ascertain, and the versions I heard were many +and conflicting. Some said these were graves of +people who had been recently buried, it being +customary to erect the stone pillars some months +after burial, and that the string with dangling +rag or piece of wood was merely to keep wolves +from digging up dead bodies. Others said it +was to keep evil spirits away, but each man gave +a different explanation, and I really could not say +which was the true origin of the custom. The +pillars over a man's grave, some say, signify that +the man died without leaving issue, but I think +this is incorrect, for it would then appear by +most graves that the Beluch are the most unprolific +people on earth, which I believe is not +the case.</p> + +<p>Children's graves were usually covered with +pieces of white marble or light coloured stone, +and those of women were generally smaller and +less elaborate and with lower pillars than men's +graves.</p> + +<p>The preparing of corpses for interment is +rather interesting. With men, the lower jaw is +set so that the mouth is closed tight, and is kept +in this position by the man's own turban which +is wound round the chin and over the head. +The eyes are also gently closed by some relative, +and the hands placed straight by the sides. As<a name="Pg_2-402" id="Pg_2-402"></a> +soon as life is pronounced extinct the body is +covered over with a sheet and the dead man's +relations go and procure new clothes, after which +the body is removed from the tent or house and +is taken towards a well or a stream, according to +circumstances. Here the body is laid down and +carefully washed, after which it is wrapped up +quite tight in sheets—so tight that the outline +can plainly be distinguished. In most cases, a +pillar is put up, a few stones laid round, or the +outline of a grave drawn on the spot where the +body has lain to undergo this operation. The +body is then removed to the burial ground and +laid most reverently in the grave.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-099.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-099_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Mesjid and Graveyard at Dalbandin." title="Beluch Mesjid and Graveyard at Dalbandin." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Mesjid and Graveyard at Dalbandin.</p> + +<p>Beluch graves are most peculiarly cut into the +ground. Instead of being vertical, like ours, they +are in three sections. The higher is vertical, +and leads to an inclined side channel giving +access to a lower last chamber, in which the +body is actually deposited. The origin of this, I +was told, is to prevent hyenas and wolves digging +up the bodies.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-100.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-100_th.jpg" alt="Section of Beluch Grave." title="Section of Beluch Grave." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Section of Beluch Grave.</p> +<p><a name="Pg_2-403" id="Pg_2-403"></a></p> +<p>When once the body is laid in its place of rest, +dried sweet-scented rose leaves are spread over it +in profusion, and then the grave is filled up with +stones and plastered with mud. The channel +between the two chambers is filled entirely +with stones, and the upper chamber entirely +with earth.</p> + +<p>Some few of the graves I saw had fallen +through, but most were in excellent preservation +and appeared to be well looked after by the +people. That the Beluch are provident people +we had palpable proof in this cemetery, where +one saw several graves ready for likely future +occupants.</p> + +<p>Another Mesjid, a circular one seven feet in +diameter, was further to be noticed to the north-east +of the graveyard. It had yellow marble +pillars of sugar-loaf and cylindrical shapes and +was enclosed by a neat stone wall.</p> + +<p>A Beluch marriage is a practical business +transaction by which a girl fetches more or less +money, camels or horses, according to her +personal charms, beauty, and social position. +Beluch women, when young, are not at all bad-looking +with well-cut features and languid eyes +full of animal magnetism like the Persian, and +they seem shy and modest enough. The Beluch +men have great respect for them, and treat them +with consideration, although—like all Orientals—they +let women do all the hard work, which +keeps the women happy.</p> + +<p>A marriage ceremony in Beluchistan bears, of<a name="Pg_2-404" id="Pg_2-404"></a> +course, much resemblance to the usual Mussulman +form, such as we have seen in Persia, with +variations and adaptations to suit the customs +and circumstances of the people.</p> + +<p>A good wife costs a lot of money in Beluchistan, +although occasionally, in such cases as when +a man has been murdered, a wife can be obtained +on the cheap. The murderer, instead of paying +a lump sum in cash, settles his account by +handing over his daughter as a wife to the +murdered man's son. Bad debts and no assets +can also be settled in a similar manner if the +debtor has sufficient daughters to make the +balance right.</p> + +<p>Under normal circumstances, however, the +girl is actually bought up, the sum becoming her +property in case of divorce. When the marriage +ceremony takes place and the relations and friends +have collected, the first step is for the bridegroom +to hand over the purchase sum, either in cash, +camels, or sheep. A great meal is then prepared, +when the men sit in a semicircle with +the bridegroom in the centre. Enormous +quantities of food are consumed, such as rice +saturated with <i>ghi</i> (butter), piles of <i>chapatis</i> +(bread) and sheep meat. A man who pays four +or five hundred rupees for a wife is expected to +kill at least twenty or thirty sheep for his guests +at this entertainment, and there is a prevailing +custom that the bridegroom on this occasion +makes a gift to the <i>lori</i> or blacksmith of the +clothes he has been wearing since his betrothal +to the girl.<a name="Pg_2-405" id="Pg_2-405"></a></p> + +<p>The women on their side have a similar sort +of entertainment by themselves, stuff themselves +with food to their hearts' content, and wash it +down with water or tea. At the end of the +meal a bowl is passed round and each man and +woman rinses mouth and hands.</p> + +<p>The <i>Sung</i>, or betrothal, is regarded as most +sacred, and much rejoicing is gone through for +several days with music and dancing and firing of +guns, and this is called the <i>nikkar</i>, just preceding +the <i>urus</i>, or actual marriage ceremony, which is +performed by a Mullah. The bridegroom, having +ridden with his friends to a neighbouring Ziarat +to implore Allah's protection, returns and sits +down in the centre of the circle formed by the +men. Two of his friends are sent to fetch the +girl's father, who is led down to the assembly.</p> + +<p>The bridegroom again assures him in front of +all these witnesses that should he from any fault +of his own divorce his wife he will forfeit the +premium paid for her, whereupon the father +replies that he will settle a sum on the girl as a +"<i>mehr</i>" or dowry. The father then departs, +and returns, bringing the bride wrapped up in +her best clothing and <i>chudder</i>.</p> + +<p>A slightly modified Mussulman form of marriage +is then gone through, and the Mullah asks +the woman three times if she agrees to marry the +man. Everything having passed off satisfactorily, +the happy couple depart to a hut or tent placed +at their disposal, and very discreetly, nobody +goes near them for some considerable length +of time.<a name="Pg_2-406" id="Pg_2-406"></a></p> + +<p>It is said that the thoughtfulness of the Beluch +towards a newly-married couple will go so far +that, even if the tribe were stalked by the enemy, +no one would go and warn the happy couple for +fear of disturbing them!</p> + +<p>The bridegroom stays with his bride for several +days, and if he belongs to some other village or +encampment, will then return to his home, and +leave his wife behind for months at a time.</p> + +<p>Beluch wives are said to be quite faithful, and +at the death of the husband go for a considerable +time without washing. This mark of respect +for the husband is, however, extensively indulged +in even before the wife becomes a widow—at +least, judging by appearances.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-407" id="Pg_2-407"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVIII" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A long march—Karodak—Sandstorm—A salt plain—Yadgar—Padag—Beluch +huts—Fierce wind—Plants—Kuchaki chah—Another +double march—Mall—Two tracks—Peculiar +cracks—A gigantic geological fault—An old Beluch fort—Nushki.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Captain Webb-Ware</span> having most kindly +arranged to "dak" camels for me, I was enabled +to remain here one day by sending my own +camels with loads ahead, I proposing to catch +them up by going three marches on January 27th. +The distance was 54 miles 980 yards, and I +covered it in nine hours, which was quite good +going.</p> + +<p>"Sand mounts and high hill ranges were to +the north and south, and the track lay east-north-east +(70° b.m.) with parallel sand ridges to the +north. Three long sand banks from 30 to 50 feet +high, facing north, accumulated by wind coming +through gaps in the hills. To south, high +mountains as one approaches Karodak."</p> + +<p>That is the only entry I find in my note-book +for the march between Dalbandin and Karodak +(16 miles 380 yards). Here the camel that had +been sent ahead for me to ride to the next post-<a name="Pg_2-408" id="Pg_2-408"></a>house +had unluckily bolted, and after wasting +nearly an hour the Beluch were unable to capture +him. I bade good-bye to the <i>jemadar</i> +and his men, who had politely escorted me +thus far, and had to continue upon the same +camel.</p> + +<p>At Karodak (3,220 feet) there was a small +<i>thana</i> surrounded by sand hills, with high tamarisks +and good grazing for camels, but the water +of the wells was salt.</p> + +<p>We trotted along in a terrific wind storm, +with yellowish dust obscuring everything like +a fog, and went over numerous big stretches +of mud and salt, cracked by the sun in semicircles +like the scales of a fish. Low hills could +now be perceived to north, south and east, when +the wind slightly abated and the dust settled +down.</p> + +<p>After crossing a sand ridge extending from +north to south, we still going east-north-east +(70° b.m.), another large salt plain disclosed itself +before us. The old track went from this point +towards the south, but the new one was in a +perfectly straight line. For the first time since +entering Beluchistan one began to see some +little vegetation on the hill sides, and a few +high tamarisks could be noticed in the plain +itself.</p> + +<p>At Yadgar (altitude 3,100 feet) we found a +four-towered <i>thana</i>, with one <i>duffadar</i>, four +sepoys, five <i>mari</i> camels, and three wells of good +water, as well as a new bungalow, but I only +remained just a few minutes to change my<a name="Pg_2-409" id="Pg_2-409"></a> +belongings from Captain Webb-Ware's camel to +mine, which was waiting here for me, and +speedily proceeded for Padag where, in a terrible +wind which had risen again after sunset, I arrived +at eight o'clock in the evening.</p> + +<p>At Padag (3,080 feet) a number of semi-spherical +Beluch huts, 4 to 5 feet high, with +domes thatched with tamarisk and palm leaves, +were to be seen. Most dwellings were in +couples, enclosed in a circular wall for protection +against the wind as well as from the +observation of intruders. Although a cold wind +was blowing fiercely at the time, and the thermometer +was only four degrees above freezing +point, there were some twenty children playing +about perfectly naked, and they seemed quite +happy and comfortable.</p> + +<p>From Padag we went across another plain of +salt and mud, with <i>sorag</i> grass and <i>drog</i>, two +plants much cherished by camels. To the north +of our track was an extensive surface of salt +deposits, extending from west to east, which +looked just as if the country were covered by +snow. Quantities of <i>eshwerk</i>—very pretty to +look at when in flower, but most poisonous—were +now found, and <i>brug</i>, good for horses. +There were three parallel ranges of broken-up +mountains on our south, and lots of tamarisks on +the south edge of the salt deposits. It was rather +curious that to the north of our track the vegetation +consisted entirely of <i>drog</i> grass, whereas to +the south there was only <i>eshwerk</i>.</p> + +<p>A few yards from the track to the south we<a name="Pg_2-410" id="Pg_2-410"></a> +came upon a graveyard (a Kabistan) with some +fifteen or twenty graves. Water we had seen +flowing in two or three channels from the mountain +to supply villages and forming pools here and +there. We passed between two mountains into +another plain with dried up <i>karankosh</i> bushes, +much liked by camels. Good grazing for horses +was to be found north, and extended as far as +the foot of the mountains.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-101.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-101_th.jpg" alt="Kuchaki Chah Rest House." title="Kuchaki Chah Rest House." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Kuchaki Chah Rest House.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-102.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-102_th.jpg" alt="Old Beluch Mud Fort near Nushki." title="Old Beluch Mud Fort near Nushki." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Old Beluch Mud Fort near Nushki.</p> + +<p>Kuchaki Chah, an unroofed rest-house a few +feet square—a photograph of which can be seen +in the illustration here appended—lies between +two high ranges of rocky mountains with high +accumulations of sand to the south-west and +north-east respectively. The rugged mountains +to the south were called Bajin. Another shrub, +<i>trat</i>, also much cherished by camels, was plentiful +here. Black precipitous rocks in vertical strata, +splitting into long slabs and blocks, were to be seen +along the mountain range to the South.</p> + +<p>We had made another double march on that +day, and reached Mall in the middle of the night. +Padag to Kuchaki Chah, 13 miles, 756 yards; +Kuchaki Chah to Mall, 15 miles, 1,154 yards. +Total, 29 miles, 150 yards.</p> + +<p>It was freezing hard, thermometer 28° Fahrenheit, +and the wind bitterly cold. My men felt it +very much and so did my camels, which all +became ill.</p> + +<p>We left Mall again very early the following +morning, as I intended to proceed direct to +Nushki. There were two tracks here to +Nushki, the old and the new. The old track<a name="Pg_2-411" id="Pg_2-411"></a> +went in a straight line and was in consequence +some miles shorter; the new track more or less +follows the foot of the mountain range, probably +taking this course for the convenience of the +several Beluch villages to be found in the Nushki +plain.</p> + +<p>The rocky mountain range to the south got +lower as we approached Nushki, and was then +crossed by another low range extending from +north to south while the longer and higher range +stretched from north-north-east to south-south-west. +A few miles from Nushki we +came across some most peculiar and very +deep cracks in the earth's crust. One could +plainly see that they were not caused by the +erosion of water, but by a commotion such +as an earthquake. In fact, we came, soon after, to +a place where the whole sandy plateau had +actually collapsed, and when we stood on the +edge of the portion which still remained +unchanged, we could see it end abruptly in +perpendicular cliffs. What was the evident +continuation of the valley lay now some hundred +or more feet below its former level. In this +lower valley there were a number of Beluch +villages.</p> + +<p>This crack and depression extends for no less +than 120 miles, according to Major MacMahon, +who in 1896 went, I believe, along its entire +length into Afghan territory, and he describes it +as "a well-defined, broad line of deep indentations, +in places as clearly defined as a deep railway cutting. +Springs of water are to be found along its course.<a name="Pg_2-412" id="Pg_2-412"></a> +The crack extends north from Nushki along the +foot of the Sarlat range, and then diagonally +across the Khwajah Amran range, cutting the +crest of the main range near its highest peak +and crossing the Lora River. A well-marked +indentation was traceable at the edge of the plain +near Murghachaman, some 18 miles north of +Chaman."</p> + +<p>MacMahon states that the Beluch themselves +attribute it to three different earthquakes, of +which accounts have been handed down by their +fathers, and at the time of which deep fissures +appeared that have subsequently extended. +Major MacMahon adds that this crack marks +the line of a gigantic geological fault, with +sedimentary rocks to the east of it and igneous +rocks to the west, and he believes, rightly, I +think, that the length of this fault line exceeds +that of any other fault line yet discovered.</p> + +<p>On the upper plateau on which we travelled +tamarisks altogether disappeared for the last +twenty miles or so, and <i>tagaz</i> shrubs, varying +from one to six feet high, were practically the +only plant we saw. In the underlying plain +tamarisk was most plentiful. Facing us on the +mountain side a white cliff could be seen from a +a long distance, with a most regular row of +double black marks which looked exactly like +windows.</p> + +<p>On approaching Nushki we saw some patches +of cultivation (wheat)—quite a novelty to us, being +the first crops of any extent we had seen since +leaving Sistan—and near at hand an old Beluch<a name="Pg_2-413" id="Pg_2-413"></a> +fort, of which a photograph is given in the +illustration. The fort possessed a picturesque +composite old tower, partly quadrangular, partly +cylindrical.</p> + +<p>We reached Nushki at night (31 miles, 1,320 +yards from Mall).</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-414" id="Pg_2-414"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIX" id="V2-CHAPTER_XXXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXXIX</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>A new city—The Bungalow—Numerous Beluch villages—Nomads—Beluch +architecture—Weaving looms—Implements—Beluch +diet—Cave dwellers of Nushki—Beluch +dress—Children—The salaam of the chiefs—An impressive +sight—The Kwajah Mahommed Ziarat—Shah Hussein's +Ziarat and its legend—A convenient geographical site.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> arriving at this new city, with actual +streets and people moving about in them, shops, +etc., it seemed to me at first almost as good as if +I had arrived back in London again. The +Bungalow, on a prominent hill 75 feet above the +plain, was simply and nicely furnished, and was +most comfortable in every way. From it one +obtained a fine panoramic view of the small town +and the neighbouring country with the many +Beluch villages scattered about.</p> + +<p>North, two miles off, was Mengal, a village of +about 300 houses and 1,500 people; west lay +Jumaldini (2½ miles distant), 200 houses, 6-700 +inhabitants; north-west, Badini in two blocks, +one belonging to Alun Khan, the other jointly to +Khaian Khan and Adal Khan: 200 houses +collectively, 400 to 500 people. Little Badal +Khan Karez, with only 30 houses, stood to the +south-west. The population of these villages is<a name="Pg_2-415" id="Pg_2-415"></a> +formed of the tribes called <i>Barechis</i> and <i>Rashkhanis</i>, +the people of Badini and Jumaldini being +entirely Rashkhanis. The Barechis formerly +inhabited Afghanistan, but migrated to the +Nushki district three generations ago. Bagag +(south-west) is a village generally inhabited by +Mandais, a branch of the Jumaldini Rashkhanis.</p> + +<p>Two big villages are to be found south, and +they are called <i>Batto</i>, which means "mixture," +owing to the populations being composed of +Rashkhanis, Mingals, Samalaris, Kharanis, and +other minor tribes; and south of Batto are two +more villages (east and west respectively of each +other). The one east is Harunis, a separate tribe +from either the Rashkhanis and the Mingals, +who follow the head chief Rind. The second +village (west) is Ahmed Val, inhabited by Ahmed +Zai Mingals. Besides these villages, the remainder +of the population is of nomads.</p> + +<p>It may have been noticed that regarding the +village of Bagag I said that "generally" it was +inhabited by Mandais. Certain villages are +inhabited by certain tribes during the summer, +the people migrating for the winter months, and +other tribes come in for the winter and vacate +their quarters in the summer. The Beluch is +not much burdened with furniture and can do +this without inconvenience.</p> + +<p>The crops grown consist of wheat, barley and +<i>jowari</i> (millet). Where good grazing is obtainable +the younger folks are sent out with sheep, +horses and camels.</p> + +<p>Almost each tribe has a different style of<a name="Pg_2-416" id="Pg_2-416"></a> +architecture for its dwellings. Those near +Nushki are usually rectangular in shape, domed +over with matting covered with plaster. The +only opening is the door, with a small porch over +it. Wooden pillars are necessary to support the +central portion of the dome (semi-cylindrical), +which is never higher than from five to eight +feet. The mangers for the horses, which form +an annexe to each dwelling—in fact, these +mangers are more prominent than the dwellings +themselves—are cylindrical mud structures eight +or nine feet high, with a hole cut into them on +one side to allow the horse's head to get at the +barley contained in the hollowed lower portion.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-103.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-103_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Huts and Weaving Loom." title="Beluch Huts and Weaving Loom." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Huts and Weaving Loom.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-104.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-104_th.jpg" alt="Cave Dwellers, Nushki." title="Cave Dwellers, Nushki." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Cave Dwellers, Nushki.</p> + +<p>The weaving looms are the largest and principal +articles of furniture one notices—not inside, but +outside the houses. The illustration shows how +the cloth and threads are kept in tension, from +every side, in a primitive but most effective +manner. The women work with extraordinary +rapidity and with no pattern before them, beating +each transverse thread home by means of an +iron comb held in the hand. The pattern on +the cloths is of a primitive kind, generally sets +of parallel lines crossing one another at right +angles.</p> + +<p>In the same photograph two Beluch dwellings +can be seen, with matting showing through the +thatch. In many villages, however, the walls of +the houses are made of sun-dried bricks, and only +the roof is made of a mat plastered over with mud. +In either case the Beluch seems to have a liking +for crawling rather than walking into his house,<a name="Pg_2-417" id="Pg_2-417"></a> +for the doorway is invariably very low—4½ to 5 +feet high.</p> + +<p>One is generally sorry to peep into a Beluch +dwelling, but I felt it a sort of duty to see what +there was to be seen. Nothing! or almost +nothing. A large wooden bowl, a stone grinding +wheel with a wooden handle to grind wheat into +flour, a wooden drinking cup or an occasional tin +enamelled one, of foreign importation, a matchlock, +and that was all. In some of the smarter +dwellings, such as the houses of chiefs, a few +additional articles were to be found, such as a +<i>badni</i>—a sort of jar for taking water—flat stones +which are made red hot for baking bread, some +occasional big brass dishes—<i>tash</i>—used on grand +occasions—such as wedding dinners; and a <i>deg</i> +or two or large brass pots.</p> + +<p>Nearly every household, however, possesses +one or more <i>khwa</i> or skins for water, and a large +<i>kasa</i>, made either of metal or wood, into which +broth is poured during meals. Occasionally in a +corner of the hut a small table is to be seen, on +which are placed all the family's clothing, blankets, +<i>darris</i> or carpets, and <i>lihaf</i> or mattresses. These +carpets, or rather rugs, are generally spread when +receiving an honoured guest.</p> + +<p>The Beluch diet is wholesome but simple. +They are fond of plenty of meat when they can +get it, which is not often, and they generally +have to be satisfied with dry bread. The woman +who can make the largest and thinnest bread is +much honoured among the Beluch. When they +do obtain meat it is generally boiled and made<a name="Pg_2-418" id="Pg_2-418"></a> +into a soup called <i>be-dir</i>, which in the Brahui +language really means "salt water," to express +"flavoured water." Milk and <i>ghi</i> are dainties +seldom indulged in and, being Mussulmans, the +Beluch imbibe no intoxicants, but are +smokers of strong bitter tobacco.</p> + +<p>It is not uncommon for lambs, sheep and +calves to share the homes and some of the meals +of their masters.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the most peculiar folks at Nushki are +the cave dwellers, who live in abject misery in +holes eroded by water in the cliffs near the +river. When I visited them most were half-naked +and trembling with cold. A few rags +answered the purpose of blankets. The only +articles of furniture and comfort were a primitive +pipe moulded out of mud—the <i>chilam</i> or the +<i>gaddu</i> as it is called by the Kakars—which +occupied a prominent place in the dwelling, and +a musical instrument placed in a receptacle in the +wall of the cave. At the entrance of the cave a +wall had been built for protection against the +wind and water.</p> + +<p>In another dwelling an <i>assah</i> or long iron rod, +like a crutch, the emblem of fakirs, was noticeable, +and by its side an empty "potted-tongue" +tin with a wire attached to it—an article which +was made to answer to a great many uses. This +cave had a small store place for food, a drinking +cup, and the wooden vessel—another emblem of +fakirs—in which charitable people deposit money +for the support of these poor wretches.</p> + +<p>The dress of the better class Beluch men con<a name="Pg_2-419" id="Pg_2-419"></a>sists +of a <i>khuss</i>, or sort of loose shirt reaching +below the knees, and the enormous trousers falling +in ample folds, but fitting tight at the ankle. At +an angle on the head they wear a conical padded +cap, embroidered in gold or silver, inside a great +turban of white muslin. They also wear shawls +or long scarves thrown over the shoulders in a +fashion not unlike our Highlanders. Either shoes +with turned-up toes are worn or else sandals. +Felt coats or sheep-skins are donned in winter, +while the richer people wear handsome coats and +waistcoats of cloth embroidered in gold or silver. +The chiefs possess most beautiful and expensive +clothes.</p> + +<p>The women of the poorer classes are garbed in +a short petticoat, usually red or blue, and a loose +shirt. A long cloth, not unlike a chudder, is +thrown over the head, and is kept tight round +the forehead by a band. It is fashionable to let +it drag on the ground behind. Women generally +go about barefooted. Better class ladies wear +similar clothes but of better material, and often +richly embroidered. Occasionally they put on +large trousers like Persian women. The hair is +either left to flow loose at the sides of the head, +or is tied into a knot behind.</p> + +<p>Necklaces, ear-rings, nose-rings, bracelets and +armlets are worn; white shells of all sizes from +the Persian Gulf, as well as glass beads, playing +a very important part in women's ornaments. +Bracelets cut out of a large white sea-shell are +common.</p> + +<p>Beluch children are rather quaint, with little<a name="Pg_2-420" id="Pg_2-420"></a> +skull caps, much decorated with silver coins, one +of which larger than the others hangs directly +over the forehead. The poor little mites are +further burdened with ear-rings, bracelets and +heavy necklaces of glass beads. Mothers seem +tenderly fond of their children.</p> + +<p>I was much delighted on the morning of +January 29th to find that all the chiefs of the +neighbouring tribes, garbed in their gaudy robes, +had come with their retinues to pay their salaams +to me. I heard the buzzing noise of a crowd +approaching up the hill, and on looking out of +the bungalow window beheld a most picturesque +sight. A tall, long-haired figure in a brilliant +long gown of red velvet, with gold embroideries +in front and back, walked slowly a-head, followed +by a cluster of venerable old men, some in long +yellow skin <i>poshteens</i>, others in smart waistcoats +covered with gold and silver embroidery. All +wore huge turbans with gold embroidered conical +caps inside. Behind them came a mass of armed +men with swords and rifles.</p> + +<p>On reaching the bungalow, fearing that I +should still be asleep, they became silent, and as +I watched them unseen from behind the blinds I +do not believe that I have ever in my life gazed +upon such a fine, dignified, manly lot of fellows +anywhere. They seated themselves in a perfect +circle, some twenty yards in diameter, directly +outside the bungalow, carpets having been spread +where the chiefs were to be accommodated. +The chiefs sat together, and the soldiers and +followers—over 150—with guns, matchlocks and<a name="Pg_2-421" id="Pg_2-421"></a> +Snider rifles, squatted down in two semicircles at +their sides.</p> + +<p>An opening was left large enough for me to +enter the ring, and when I approached all +respectfully rose and salaamed, and the chiefs, +coming forward in turn, shook me heartily by +the hand with the usual long Beluch salutation, +each bowing low as he did so. Sitting in the +centre of the circle on a carpet, which had been +spread for me, I addressed them in a few words, +which they seemed to appreciate, and each chief +answered back in a simple, straightforward and +most thoughtful, gentlemanly manner.</p> + +<p>Mahommed Ali, the leading chief, in a red +velvet coat, was the Mingal Sardar of the three +powerful tribes, Jumaldini, Badini, and Mingal, +and by his side sat Kaim Khan with his shield +and sword, the second Sardar of the neighbourhood +and brother of the Jumaldini Sardar. Jan +Beg, who sat on the left hand side of the chief +Sardar, was a thin tall man, and Alam Khan, a +splendid old fellow with a fine inlaid sword, can +be seen standing in the photograph reproduced +in the illustration.</p> + +<p>The last of the principal five Badini chiefs was a +comparatively young man of black complexion, +long jet black curly hair, and garbed in a gaudy +poshteen, sword and belt. His name was Kasin +Khan.</p> + +<p>Then there was Kadar Bakhsh, uncle of the +present Mingal Sardar, a man most useful to the +British Government, and beside him his brother, +Attar Khan.<a name="Pg_2-422" id="Pg_2-422"></a></p> + +<p>Gauher Khan, nephew of the Mingal Sardar, +was a picturesque young man with heavily +embroidered black coat and a black turban. He +carried his sword in his hand.</p> + +<p>As one looked round the circle it was really a +most impressive and picturesque sight—colours +of all sorts dazzling in the sunlight. Among +the other most important men were Adal Khan +(cousin of the Badini chief), a very old fellow, +curved from age; and Bai Khan, his cousin, who +looked somewhat stronger; Kaiser Khan, a smart +young fellow with curly hair, black coat and +trousers, was the son of the Jumaldini chief, and +a young fellow of weak constitution, by name +Abdullah Aziz, was son and heir of the Badini +Sardar.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-105.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-105_th.jpg" alt="A Badini Sardar." title="A Badini Sardar." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">A Badini Sardar.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-106.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-106_th.jpg" alt="The Salaam of the Beluch Sardars at Nushki." title="The Salaam of the Beluch Sardars at Nushki." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Salaam of the Beluch Sardars at Nushki.</p> +<p class="figcenter">(Sardar Alam Khan standing.)</p> + +<p>Sherdil and Mehrullah Khan, with elaborately +embroidered coats and Snider rifles, sat among +the elect, and the others were soldiers and +followers, but a fine lot of fellows indeed, all the +same.</p> + +<p>When the formal reception broke up I showed +them my repeating rifles, revolvers and various +instruments, which interested them greatly; and +the leading chiefs having been entertained to tea, +they eventually departed after repeated salaams.</p> + +<p>Although the Beluch and the Afghan shake +hands on arrival, they seldom do so on departing, +the handshake being for them an outward sign to +express the joy of seeing a friend.</p> + +<p>On surveying the neighbourhood from our +high point of vantage at the bungalow, we found +plenty to interest the observer. To the north<a name="Pg_2-423" id="Pg_2-423"></a> +and north-west directly below the hill could be +seen a graveyard in two sections, the tombs being +very high above ground, with prismatic tops of +white stones, whereas the bases were of black +pebbles. The tombs in the graveyard to the +north-west were in bad preservation. There was +at this spot a well known Ziarat called Kwajah +Mahommed, and the British Government has +given much pleasure to the natives by sanctioning +a "mufi" or remission of revenue for ever of all +the land belonging to this Ziarat in order to +provide for the support of it.</p> + +<p>The people of the district are extremely +religious, and they have erected Mesjids and +Ziarats on every possible hill in the neighbourhood. +The most interesting is the Shah-Hussein +Ziarat, which has a curious legend of its own. +They say, that when the Arabs attacked Shah-Hussein, +he killed all his enemies by merely +praying to God. With their heads, which +suddenly turned into solid stone, he built the +Ziarat. The tomb is made, in fact, of round +stones, some of enormous size, evidently worn +into that shape by water, but the natives firmly +believe that they are petrified heads of Arabs!</p> + +<p>Nushki is most conveniently situated in a large +valley with mountains sheltering it from the +north, north-east, east, south-east, south, south-south-west, +but from south-south-west to north +there is a stretch of open flat desert (the <i>Registan</i>, +or "country of sand") as far as the eye can see. +To the south of the bungalow is a hill range +stretching from north-north-east to south-south-<a name="Pg_2-424" id="Pg_2-424"></a>west, +and suddenly broken by the valley, through +which runs the stream which, then proceeding +along the Nushki plain from east to west, turns +in a graceful curve round the western side of the +hill on which the bungalow is situated, and +proceeds across the desert in a north-north-west +direction, where, having supplied several villages +and irrigated their fields, it eventually exhausts +itself in the desert. A broad river bed can be +noticed on the east side of and parallel with the +above hill range. The east side of these hills has +been much worn by water action; so much so +that actual holes and caves in the soft strata of +sand and gravel have been corroded by the water, +and these holes, as we have seen, are now inhabited +by destitute Beluch.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-425" id="Pg_2-425"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XL" id="V2-CHAPTER_XL"></a>CHAPTER XL</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The fast growing city of Nushki—The Tashil—the Tashildar—Beluch +law—Hospital—Pneumonia and consumption—Lawn +tennis—The Nushki Bazaar—Satisfactory trade +returns—The projected Quetta-Nushki Railway—A great +future for Nushki—An extension to Sistan necessary—Also +a telegraph—Preferable routes for a railway to Sistan—From +Nushki to Kishingi—A curious Mesjid—Mudonek +Ateng Mountain—A fast of twenty-five days—The Chiltan +and Takatu Mts.—The Gurghena tribe—Huts and tents—Beluch +hospitality—Villages.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Let</span> us take a walk through the fast growing +city of Nushki. Half a dozen years ago there +was next to nothing here, but now we have a +beautiful <i>Tashil</i>—a large walled enclosure, with a +portico all round inside and circular towers at the +four corners. The actual Tashil office, occupying +the north-east corner, has a most business-like +appearance, with handsome iron despatch-boxes, +clocks that mark each a different time, but look +most imposing all the same, and folio-documents +folded in two and carefully arranged in piles upon +the floor by the side of wise-looking clerks squatting +in their midst. The Tashildar himself, Sardar +Mahommed Yuzaf Khan Popalzai, is a much respected +man of Afghan birth, of the Bamezi +Popalzai Durranis, or descendants of the tribe<a name="Pg_2-426" id="Pg_2-426"></a> +reigning in Cabul before Mahommed Zeis took +the throne, when his ancestors and the Saddo +Zeis were forcibly banished from the country.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-107.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-107_th.jpg" alt="The New City of Nushki. (overlooking the Tashil Buildings.)" title="The New City of Nushki. (overlooking the Tashil Buildings.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">The New City of Nushki.</span> (overlooking the Tashil Buildings.)</p> + +<p>The Tashildar, a most intelligent officer, seems +to understand the Beluch chiefs thoroughly, treats +them with extreme consideration—in private life +dealing with them as honoured guests, and politically +as Government subjects who must adhere +to their loyalty to the King.</p> + +<p>There are also within the Tashil wall a post +and telegraph office and a treasury, a neat little +red brick building, with strong iron gates and +huge padlocks. Prisons are on either side of the +treasury, so that one single sentry may keep an +eye on both the prisoners and the local Government +funds.</p> + +<p>When I visited the place an old man in chains +was squatting in the sun outside his cell. I inquired +what crime he had committed. His +daughter, they said, was betrothed to a young +man, and at the time appointed for the marriage +the old man did not bring the girl to the bridegroom +as stipulated. He had consequently already +been here in prison for two months to pay +for his folly, and would possibly have to remain +some months longer, for, according to Beluch +law—which is in force here—such a crime deserves +severe punishment.</p> + +<p>Another prisoner—a cattle lifter—had a most +hideously criminal head. Prisoners were very +well cared for, had nice clean cells given them, +and were provided with plenty of food and +blankets.<a name="Pg_2-427" id="Pg_2-427"></a></p> + +<p>The Tashil establishment consisted of one +Tashildar, one <i>Sarishtedar</i> (clerk who reads +papers), one Judicial <i>Moharrir</i>, one <i>Kanungo</i> +(revenue clerk), three <i>patwaris</i>, one accountant in +treasury and one treasurer, one <i>chaprassi</i>, one petition +writer, one levy moonshee, one post and telegraph +master, one postman, one hospital assistant, +one compounder, three servants.</p> + +<p>Next to the Tashil was the <i>thana</i> and Police-station, +with a police thanedar, one sergeant and +nine (Punjab) constables, as well as a levy +<i>jemadar</i> with one <i>duffadar</i> and ten <i>sawars</i>.</p> + +<p>There is a practical little hospital at Nushki, +with eight beds and a dispensary, but the health +of the place seemed very good, and there were +no patients when I visited it. Moreover, it seems +that the Beluch prefer to be given medicine and +remain in their dwellings, except in cases of very +severe illness. The principal ailments from which +they suffer are small-pox, measles, and scurvy, +which in various stages is most prevalent among +the Beluch. Chest complaints are unknown +among them while they live out in the open air, +but when they are forcibly confined to rooms, for +instance as prisoners, they generally die of pneumonia +or develop consumption.</p> + +<p>Two caravanserais are found at Nushki, one +for traders from Sistan, and one for caravans from +Quetta, and a mosque, so that the place is quite +a self-contained little town.</p> + +<p>In front of the hospital one is rather staggered +by finding an actual tennis court laid down +according to the most precise rules, and no doubt<a name="Pg_2-428" id="Pg_2-428"></a> +in course of time we may expect golf links and +ping-pong tournaments which will mark further +steps towards the Anglicisation of that district. +But personally I was more interested in the local +bazaar, counting already 150 shops.</p> + +<p>The Nushki bazaar is along a wide road kept +tidy and clean, and the place boasts of butcher-shops, +a washerman, one tailor marked by smallpox +and one who is not; <i>ghi</i> merchants with +large round casks outside their doors; cloth +merchants; blacksmiths and grain shops. In a +back street—for, indeed, Nushki boasts already +of two streets parallel with the main thoroughfare—under +a red flag hoisted over the premises is an +eating house—a restaurant for natives. The +merchants are mostly Hindoos from Sind.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-108.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-108_th.jpg" alt="Jemadar and Levies, Nushki." title="Jemadar and Levies, Nushki." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Jemadar and Levies, Nushki.</p> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-109.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-109_th.jpg" alt="A Giant Beluch Recruit. (Chaman.)" title="A Giant Beluch Recruit. (Chaman.)" /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">A Giant Beluch Recruit.</span> (Chaman.)</p> + +<p>The land on which the shops have been built +has practically been given free by the Government +on condition that, if required back again at a future +date, the builder of the house upon the land +reclaimed is entitled, as an indemnity, only to the +restitution of the wood employed in the construction +of the house—the chief item of expense +in Nushki constructions.</p> + +<p>Cotton goods, blue, red and white, seem to +command the greatest sale of any articles in +Nushki, after which the local trade consists of +wheat, almonds, barley, carpets (from Sistan), +wool, <i>kanawes</i> (cloth from Meshed), and cloths +imported from England, mostly cheap cottons; +camels, dates, etc.</p> + +<p>The transit trade of Nushki is, however, very +considerable. The Government returns of the<a name="Pg_2-429" id="Pg_2-429"></a> +trade that passed through Nushki during the +year from April, 1900, to April, 1901, +showed an aggregate of Rs.1,534,452, against Rs.1,235,411 +for the preceding twelve months, while +two years before (1898-1899) the returns barely +amounted to Rs.728,082. Last year, 1901, the +trade returns made a further jump upwards +in the nine months from April to the end of +December, 1901, the imports amounting to +Rs.680,615, and the exports Rs.925,190, or +an aggregate of Rs.1,605,805, which is very +satisfactory indeed.</p> + +<p>So much has been written of late about +Nushki, especially in connection with the new +railway, that I have very little to add. I most +certainly think that, strategically and commercially, +Nushki is bound to become a very important +centre, and, as far as trade goes, eventually +to supplant Quetta altogether, owing to its more +convenient position. The projected railway from +Quetta to Nushki will be a great boon to caravans, +both from Afghanistan and Persia, because +the severe cold of Quetta makes it very difficult +for camels to proceed there in winter, and camel +drivers have a great objection to taking their +animals there.</p> + +<p>For any one looking ahead at the future and +not so much at the present, it seems, however, +almost a pity that the newly sanctioned railway +should not join Nushki with Shikarpur or Sibi +instead of Quetta, which would have avoided a +great and apparently almost useless detour. +Nushki will be found to develop so fast and so<a name="Pg_2-430" id="Pg_2-430"></a> +greatly that, sooner or later, it will have to be +connected in a more direct line with more important +trading centres than Quetta. Quetta is +not a trading centre of any importance, and is +merely a military station leading nowhere into +British territory in a direct line.</p> + +<p>However, even the Quetta-Nushki railway is +better than nothing, and will certainly have a +beneficial effect upon the country it will pass +through. From a military point of view the +railway as far as Nushki only is practically useless. +It is only a distance of some ninety odd +miles, through good country with plenty of +water and some grazing.</p> + +<p>In England one reads in the papers and hears +people talk of this railway as the Quetta-Sistan +Railway, and people seem to be under the impression +that Nushki is on the Persian border. +It should be clearly understood that from Nushki +to Sistan (Sher-i-Nasrya) the distance, through +practically desert country and scanty water, is +over 500 miles. To my mind it is in the Robat-Nushki +portion of that distance, where travelling +is difficult, and for troops almost impossible, that +a railway is mostly needed. I have gone to +much trouble, and risked boring the reader, to +give all the differential altitudes upon the portion +of the road between Robat and Nushki, and it +will be seen that hardly anywhere does the track +rise suddenly to more than 50 or 100 feet at +most. The ground could easily be made solid +enough to lay a line upon; tanks for the water +supply might be established at various stations,<a name="Pg_2-431" id="Pg_2-431"></a> +and a railway could be built with no trouble and +comparatively small expense.</p> + +<p>Again, for the trade of Southern Persia, Robat +would, I think, be a fairly good terminus on the +Perso-Beluch frontier; but, in order to compete +with Russia in Sistan and Khorassan, it would be +a very good thing if the Government could enter +into an arrangement with Afghanistan, so that if +such a railway were built it should strike from +Dalbandin across the desert up to the Southern +bank of the Halmund, and have Sher-i-Nasrya +in Sistan for its terminus. This would do away +almost altogether—except in a small section—with +the difficulty of the water, and would +shorten the distance by at least one quarter.</p> + +<p>The idea one often hears that it would be +dangerous to construct such a railway, because it +would be to open a passage for Russia into India, +is too ridiculous to be argued about. It might +be pointed out that the Russians on their side +seem not to reciprocate the fear of our invading +their country, for they are pushing their railways +from the north as far as they can towards the +Persian frontier, and it is stated that a concession +has been obtained by them for a railway line to +Meshed.</p> + +<p>But, either <i>via</i> Robat or the Halmund, the +principal point is that if we do not wish to lose +Southern Persia we must push the railway with +the utmost speed, at least as far as the frontier. +Anything, in such a case, is better than nothing, +and most undoubtedly a telegraph line should be +established without delay—possibly as far as the<a name="Pg_2-432" id="Pg_2-432"></a> +Sher-i-Nasrya Consulate. Matters are much more +urgent than we in England think, and if warning +is not taken we shall only have ourselves to blame +for the consequences.</p> + +<p>From Nushki I went to a great extent along +the line which is to be followed by the future +railway. It seemed very sensibly traced, avoiding +expensive difficulties, such as tunnels, as much as +possible, but of course this railway has to go over +a good portion of mountainous country and +cannot be built on the cheap.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-110.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-110_th.jpg" alt="The Track between Nushki and Kishingi." title="The Track between Nushki and Kishingi." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Track between Nushki and Kishingi.</p> + +<p>I left Nushki on the 31st, following a limpid +stream of water, and we began a zig-zag ascent +of the mountains before us to the east, leaving +behind to the north-east in a valley a large camp +of railway engineers and surveyors. After some +two miles we reached a broad valley, and we continued +to rise until we had reached the pass, 4,820 +feet. On the other side we descended only 75 feet +to a plain—a plateau, with hill ranges rising on it, +and a barrier of higher mountains behind. The +vegetation here was quite different from anything +we had met in the desert, and <i>kotor</i> was plentiful—a +plant, the Beluch say, eaten by no animal. +Tamarisk seemed to flourish—it is a wonderful +plant that flourishes almost everywhere.</p> + +<p>The plain was subdivided into three. In the +first portion, four miles wide, and one broad, the +<i>monguli</i> shrub was abundant, and, like the <i>kotor</i>, +was pronounced a useless plant, despised by all +beasts. In the second plain we found more <i>kotor</i>, +and in the last—very sandy—a lot of tamarisk. +The ground was cut about by numerous dry<a name="Pg_2-433" id="Pg_2-433"></a> +water-channels, and after a very easy march of +some eleven miles we came to the bungalow of +Kishingi, having ascended from 3,745 feet at the +Nushki Tashil to 4,720 feet at the Kishingi rest-house. +We had seen a great many white pillar +posts indicating the line of the future railroad.</p> + +<p>We had now quite a different type of rest-houses—two-storied, +and very nice too, the two +rooms being comfortably enough furnished. A +caravanserai was attached to the bungalow.</p> + +<p>Still going east we crossed another narrow +valley, through which the railway was traced, and +after going over a pass 5,250 feet we were in a +valley with a lot of <i>johr</i> growing upon it—a plant +which the Beluch say is deadly to man and beast +alike. On the top of the pass we saw a Mesjid, +and several more were found on descending on +the other side as well as a graveyard.</p> + +<p>A curious white Mesjid was to be seen here +shaped like an 8, and erected on the site where a +Beluch had been killed. A conical mountain to +the south, the Mudonek Ateng, was famous, my +camel driver told me, because a Beluch fakir is +said to have remained on the top of it for 25 +days without food or water. A small stone +shelter could be seen on the top of the mountain, +which, they say, had been the fakir's abode +during his long fast.</p> + +<p>There is very little of special interest on this +well-known part of the route near Quetta. We +rose for several miles to a higher pass (5,700 +feet), and were then on a higher flat plateau +with a high range stretching half-way across<a name="Pg_2-434" id="Pg_2-434"></a> +it from south-south-east to north-north-west. +One's attention was at once drawn to the north-east +by two renowned peaks in British Beluchistan, +the Chiltan, and further off the Takatu Mount. +At their foot on the other side lay Quetta. In +front of these we had the Hilti range stretching +north-west to south-east, ending in Mount Barag +on the north, and the two Askhan hills.</p> + +<p>This part seemed more populated, and we left +to the east the tribe of Gurghena, comprising +four villages at intervals of about one mile +from one another. The last was situated in the +wide valley to the west of the Hilti range. +Other villages could be seen further in the valley +extending towards the south, which were +supplied with water by a river flowing along the +valley. A few <i>ghedan</i>, or low grass huts, were +scattered about the valley, and some black tents +5½ feet high, with one side raised like an awning +by means of sticks. A pen for sheep was +erected near them with tamarisk branches and +sticks.</p> + +<p>We were very thirsty and went to one of +these tents. The woman who occupied it gave +us some water, but, although in abject poverty, +angrily refused to accept a silver coin in payment, +saying that Beluch cannot be paid for hospitality. +Water costs nothing. God gives water for all +the people alike, and, if they were to accept +payment, misfortune would fall upon them.</p> + +<p>Further on we passed the village of Paden, +with cultivation all round and plenty of water. +The chief had quite an imposing residence, with<a name="Pg_2-435" id="Pg_2-435"></a> +a tower and castellated entrance gate, and the +characteristic cylindrical mangers for horses in +front of his dwelling. But although more +elaborate, even this house—the largest I had +seen—was absolutely devoid of windows, except +for a loop-hole to the east of the tower, which I +think was more for defensive purposes than for +ventilation's sake.</p> + +<p>The village of Kardegap was seen next, and +we arrived at Morad Khan Kella (5,500 feet) +twenty-four miles from our last camp.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-436" id="Pg_2-436"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-CHAPTER_XLI" id="V2-CHAPTER_XLI"></a>CHAPTER XLI</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Morad Khan Kella—The horrors of a camera—Seven high +dunes—Three tracks—Where the railway will be laid—A +fine old tamarisk turned into a Ziarat—Pagoda-like rest-houses—Science +<i>versus</i> comfort—Kanak—Afghan women—The +Kandahar road—How we butcher foreign names—Quetta +and Chaman—The horse fair and Durbar at Sibi—Arrival +in Calcutta—The first mishap—The death of +faithful Lawah—The end.</p></div><p> </p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> was a ruined fort at Morad Khan Kella, +and half a mile off a Beluch village with two +towers. Each house had a separating wall +extending outwardly. The Beluch is wretched +if he is not secluded. The first thing he ever +wants to know is the exact extent of his +property, then he is quite happy and can live at +peace with his neighbours. As folks live more +outside their houses than indoors, I suppose such +a demarcation of property is necessary. Moreover, +people and beasts live in friendly intercourse, +and no doubt the beasts, which may be the +cherished pets of one man, may be just the +reverse to his neighbours. The houses were +rectangular and plastered over with mud.</p> + +<p>The people here were not quite so friendly as +in other villages, and one began to feel the effects<a name="Pg_2-437" id="Pg_2-437"></a> +of nearing civilisation. Somebody, too, had +been at this people with a camera before, for I +hardly had time to take mine out of its case +before the whole population, which had collected +around, stampeded in all directions in the utmost +confusion. Only a little child—whom the +mother dropped in the hurry-scurry—was left +behind, and he was a quaint little fellow clad in +a long coloured gown and a picturesque red +hood.</p> + +<p>We left Morad Khan Kella (5,430 feet) again +on February 2nd, along the vast plain which is +to be crossed by the future railway from north to +south (190°). On nearing the Killi range we +came again to some high sand dunes rising in a +gentle gradient to 250 feet, their lowest point +being to the north, the highest to the south. +The plain itself on which we were travelling +(stretching from south-west to north-east) rose +gradually to 5,650 feet on undulating ground +with a number of sand hills, seven high long +dunes, and some minor ones.</p> + +<p>We then came to a flat plain slanting northwards +and with high sand accumulations to the +south near the hill range. A rivulet of salt +water losing itself in the sand was found next, +and then we had to cross a pass 6,020 feet. One +obtained a beautiful view of the Mustang Mountains +to the south-east with two plains, intersected +by a high mountain range between us and them. +There were three tracks from this pass. One +south-east, called the Mustang track, the other +(north-east) the Tiri Road, and one, on which<a name="Pg_2-438" id="Pg_2-438"></a> +we were travelling, north-north-east (50°) to +Kanak. The very high Kuh-i-Maran peak +could be seen in the distance to the south-east.</p> + +<p>The railway will here follow the river which, +coming from Mustang, flows south-west to +Panchepoy. Then the line will proceed through +the gorge in the mountains to the west. Some +few miles from Kanak at the entrance of this +gorge were curious cuts in the sand, evidently +caused by water. Tamarisk was most luxuriant +here.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-111.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-111_th.jpg" alt="Taleri (Kanak). The new type of Rest House between Nushki and Quetta." title="Taleri (Kanak). The new type of Rest House between Nushki and Quetta." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Taleri (Kanak).</span> The new type of Rest House between Nushki and Quetta.</p> + +<p>A small graveyard and a semi-natural Ziarat, +formed by a much contorted centenarian tamarisk +tree of abnormal proportions, were also to be +seen here. The branches had been twisted to +form a low doorway leading to a huge grave in +the centre of the enclosing oval formed by the +old tree and some other smaller ones. Large +round stones, as well as palm leaves, brooms, and +various implements had been deposited on the +grave; while suspended to the tree branches +over the doorway hung brass camel-bells and +tassels from camel collars.</p> + +<p>During that day we had come across a great +many Mesjids, either single or in sets of three, +and several other Ziarats of no special importance. +In the valley of Kanak there were a number of +Beluch towns and villages, two at the foot of the +Shalkot Mountain and one in each valley to the +south of the track.</p> + +<p>We made our last halt at the pagoda-like Bungalow +of Kanak, a comfortable large, black wood +verandah with a tiny dwelling in the centre,<a name="Pg_2-439" id="Pg_2-439"></a> +whitewashed walls, and a corrugated iron roof. +The man who built it was apparently more of a +mechanical engineer than an architect, and every +detail is carried out on some highly scientific +principle which impressed one much after the +less elaborate but very practical abodes we had +inhabited further east.</p> + +<p>Here there was a gate suspended on long iron +rods besides the usual hinges, each screw had a +bolt at the end, and on proceeding inside, the +ceiling was supported on very neat but most +insecure-looking wooden bars no thicker than +three inches. A most ingenious theory of angles +kept up the heavy roof—why it did, Heaven +only knows! In contrast to the other bungalows, +where we had no glass at all, here we had glass +everywhere. One's bedroom door was two-thirds +made of the most transparent panes of glass that +could be got, and so were the two doors of the +bath-room—one leading directly on to the outside +verandah. The boards of the floor had +shrunk, and between the interstices one got a +bird's-eye view of what went on in the underlying +room.</p> + +<p>A great deal of space and expense has been +devoted to outer show and scientific detail, +whereas the rooms were small, and unfortunate +was the man who tried to occupy the upper +room when a fire had been lighted in the +chimney of the room below. The bungalow +was, however, comfortably furnished, and from +its spacious verandah afforded a most magnificent +view all round.<a name="Pg_2-440" id="Pg_2-440"></a></p> + +<p>The high Chiltan Mountains above Shalkot +were on one side, and various picturesque hill +ranges stretched across the large plane dotted with +a Beluch village here and there.</p> + +<p>In front of the entrance gate at the bungalow +a nice pool of water reflected in its more or less +limpid waters the images of over-leaning leafless +trees.</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-112.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-112_th.jpg" alt="The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan." title="The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">The Horse Fair at Sibi, Beluchistan.</p> + +<p>Whatever remarks one may make about the +construction of the bungalow it must be confessed +that it photographed well. (See illustration +facing page <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a>).</p> + +<p>The altitude of Kanak was 5,730 feet.</p> + +<p>We made an early start on this our last march, +steering between the handsome Takatu Mountain +and the Chiltan, between which Quetta lies. +We met a number of Afghan women in long, +loose black gowns from neck to foot, and silver +ornaments round the neck and arms. They had +austere but handsome features with expressive +eyes.</p> + +<p>About six miles from Quetta we struck the +wide Kandahar Road at the foot of the Takatu +Mountain. From this point we got the first +glimpse of Shalkot or Quetta. "Quetta" is the +English corruption, abbreviation, or adaptation, +if you please, of the word "Shalkot!" One +almost wished one could have trembled when +one stopped for a moment to read the first notice +in English on approaching the town, warning +new-comers of the dreadful things that would +happen to any one entering the town carrying a +camera or found sketching or taking notes!<a name="Pg_2-441" id="Pg_2-441"></a></p> + +<p>It came on to snow as we approached the +place, and shortly after sunset my caravan entered +the neat, beautifully-kept roads of Quetta, and +behold, joy!—I heard for the first time since +August last the whistle of a railway engine. +This was on February 3rd, 1902.</p> + +<p>I met with unbounded civility and hospitality +from everybody in Quetta as well as at Chaman, +our most north-westerly point on the Afghan +boundary. For those who believe in the unpreparedness +of England, it may be stated that, +from this point, we could with ease lay a railroad +to Kandahar in less than three weeks.</p> + +<p>A most charming invitation from the Honourable +the Agent to the Governor-General and +Chief Commissioner in Beluchistan, Col. C. E. +Yate, C.S.I., C.M.G., etc., took me almost +directly to Sibi, where the annual horse show +and Beluch Durbar were to take place. A great +many locally-bred animals were exhibited, some +very good indeed. Camel, horse, and cow races +enlivened the show, and a very weird representation +of a Beluch raid was performed with much +<i>entrain</i>. At the Durbar, the leading Chiefs +were presented by Col. Yate with handsome +gold and silver embroidered coats, waistcoats, +scarves and turbans, and the scene was very +impressive.</p> + +<p>One could not help again being struck by the +dignified, manly behaviour of the Beluch on one +side, and their frank respect for the British +officers,—a respect indeed well-deserved, for a +finer set of men in every way than our Political<a name="Pg_2-442" id="Pg_2-442"></a> +Service Officers can be found nowhere. It +is a pity we have not similar men <i>all</i> over +India.</p> + +<p>From Sibi I travelled by rail across country to +Calcutta, where I arrived at the beginning of +March, having completed my journey overland—if +the short crossing from Baku to Enzeli be +excepted—from Flushing (Holland).</p> + +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-113.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-113_th.jpg" alt="Beluch Boys off to the Races—Horse Fair at Sibi." title="Beluch Boys off to the Races—Horse Fair at Sibi." /></a></p> +<p class="illc">Beluch Boys off to the Races—Horse Fair at Sibi.</p> + +<p>It never does to boast. I was feeling somewhat +proud to have travelled such a long +distance with no serious mishaps or accidents, +when, much to my sorrow, Sadek, my Persian +servant, returned one evening to the hotel +dreadfully smashed up. He had been attacked +in the bazaar by three Englishmen of Calcutta, +two of whom had held him down on the ground +while the third kicked him badly in the head, +body and legs. It appears that these three +ruffians had a grievance against Persians in +general, hence their heroic deed against a man +who had done them no harm.</p> + +<p>It was indeed too bad to have to register that, +in a journey of over 10,000 miles, the only +people who had shown any barbarity were—in a +sort of way—my own countrymen!</p> + +<p>Much as I love Beluchistan, I like India less +and less each time I go there. Maybe it is +because I always have misfortunes while in the +country. Indeed, I received a last and severe +blow while proceeding by train from Calcutta to +Bombay to catch a homeward steamer. My +faithful cat Lawah died, suffocated by the intense +moist heat in the carriage. The other two cats<a name="Pg_2-443" id="Pg_2-443"></a> +I just managed to keep alive by constant rubbing +with ice.</p> + +<p>From Bombay I despatched Sadek back to +Teheran <i>via</i> the Gulf and Bushire, and the two +surviving cats and I sailed by P. & O. for +England, where we all three arrived happy, +safe, and sound.<a name="Pg_2-445" id="Pg_2-445"></a></p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-444" id="Pg_2-444"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-APPENDIX" id="V2-APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX</h2> + + +<p class="illc">Tables Showing the Distance From Quetta To Meshed via Robat, Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), Birjand.</p> +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Distances from Quetta to Persian frontier."> +<tr><th align='center' colspan='3'><i>Distances from Quetta to Persian frontier.</i></th></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Name of Stage.</i></td><td align='center' colspan='2'><i>Distance.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'><i>Miles.</i></td><td align='right'><i> Yards.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Quetta to Girdi Talab</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Girdi to Kanak (Taleri)</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kanak to Morad Khan Kella</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='right'>—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Morad Khan Kella to Kishingi</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='right'>—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kishingi to Nushki</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='right'>—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nushki to Mall</td><td align='right'>31</td><td align='right'>1,320</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mall to Kuchaki Chah</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='right'>1,154</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kuchaki Chah to Padag</td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='right'>756</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Padag to Yadgar</td><td align='right'>22</td><td align='right'>1,390</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yadgar to Karodak</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='right'>970</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Karodak to Dalbandin</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>380</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dalbandin to Chakal</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='right'>190</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chakal to Sotag</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='right'>220</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sotag to Mirui</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='right'>1,320</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mirui to Chah Sandan</td><td align='right'>20</td><td align='right'>220</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chah Sandan to Tretoh</td><td align='right'>23</td><td align='right'>760</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tretoh to Noh Kundi</td><td align='right'>21</td><td align='right'>1,660</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Noh Kundi to Mashki Chah</td><td align='right'>21</td><td align='right'>1,100</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mashki Chah to Sahib Chah</td><td align='right'>28</td><td align='right'>660</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sahib Chah to Mukak</td><td align='right'>23</td><td align='right'>660</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mukak to Saindak</td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='right'>880</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Saindak to Kirtaka</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='right'>750</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Kirtaka to Chah Mahommed</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='right'>1,107</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chah Mahommed Raza to Raza Kuh-i-Malek-Siah</td><td align='right'>24</td><td align='right'>368</td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-446" id="Pg_2-446"></a></p> +<p class="illc">Distances from Robat (Beluchistan) to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan).</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Distances from Robat (Beluchistan) to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan)."> +<tr><td align='left'>Robat to Hormak</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='center'>miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hormak to Girdi-Chah</td><td align='right'>32</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Girdi-Chah to Mahommed Raza Chah</td><td align='right'>28</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mahommed Raza Chah to Lutak</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lutak to Baghak</td><td align='right'>16</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Baghak to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan)</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'> </td><td align='center'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sher-i-Nasrya to Birjand, about 12 stages</td><td align='right'>210</td><td align='center'>miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Birjand to Meshed, <i>via</i> Turbat-i-Haidari</td><td align='right'>277</td><td align='center'>"</td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> + +<p class="illc">Botanical Specimens Collected by Author in North Beluchistan. (Presented to the British Museum of Natural History.)</p> + +<div class='centered'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Botanical Specimens Collected by Author in North Beluchistan."> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Native Name.</i></td><td align='left'> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Agat</i></td><td align='left'>Lornia spinosa. Sch. Bip.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Buju</i></td><td align='left'>Stipa (grass).</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Eshwerk</i></td><td align='left'>Rhazya stricta Dec.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Jirri × Jerr</i></td><td align='left'>Artemisia Herba-Alva Asso.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Karkar</i></td><td align='left'>Fagonia Aucheri Boiss.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Kesankur</i></td><td align='left'>Peganum Harmala L.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Kanderi</i></td><td align='left'>(?) Salsola.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Kirri</i></td><td align='left'>Tamarix articulata vahl.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Kul</i>     }</td><td align='left' rowspan='2'>Phragmites communis Trin. (A reed.)</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Drug</i>   }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Kulich' nell</i></td><td align='left'>Cressa cretica L.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' rowspan='2'><i>Lara</i></td><td align='left'>{ Anabasis sp.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>{ Tamarix sp.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Pish</i></td><td align='left'>Nannorhops Ritchieana Wendl. (Palm.)</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Sachdonne</i></td><td align='left'>Astragalus sp.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Moricandia sp.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Alyssum.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Cichorium (?).</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Nerium Oleander L.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Convolvulus sp.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Salicornia fruticosa L.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>——</td><td align='left'>Suæda monoica Forsk.</td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr /> +<p class="illc"><a href="./images/ill2-114.jpg"><img src="./images/ill2-114_th.jpg" alt="Sketch Map of A. Henry Savage Landor's Journey from Kerman (Persia) to Quetta (Beluchistan) giving detailed survey of Sistan-Nushki Route by Author." title="Sketch Map of A. Henry Savage Landor's Journey from Kerman (Persia) to Quetta (Beluchistan) giving detailed survey of Sistan-Nushki Route by Author." /></a></p> +<p class="figcenter"> <span class="smcap">Sketch Map of A. Henry Savage Landor's Journey from Kerman</span> (Persia) <span class="smcap">to Quetta</span> (Beluchistan) <span class="smcap">giving detailed survey of Sistan-Nushki Route by Author.</span></p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><a name="Pg_2-447" id="Pg_2-447"></a></p> +<h2><a name="V2-INDEX" id="V2-INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> + + +<p>i. == Vol. I.</p> + +<p>ii. == Vol. II.</p> + +<ul><li>Abal Kassem Khan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-40">40</a></li> +<li>Abbas Ali, Camel man, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-117">117</a></li> +<li>Abbas Ali Khan, British Agent in Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-104">104</a></li> +<li>Abdulabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-79">79</a></li> +<li>Abid, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-19">19</a></li> +<li>Accumulations of wealth, i. <a href="#Pg_1-120">120</a></li> +<li>Across the Salt Desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-1">1</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-89">89</a></li> +<li>Afghan-Beluch Boundary, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-377">377</a></li> +<li>Afghan<ul> +<li> Desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-309">309</a></li> +<li> Invasion, i. <a href="#Pg_1-88">88</a></li> +<li> Soldiers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-101">101</a></li> +<li> Women, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Afghanistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-316">316</a></li> +<li>Afghans, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-283">283</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a></li> +<li>African black, an, i. <a href="#Pg_1-80">80</a></li> +<li>Agdah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-371">371</a></li> +<li>Agha<ul> +<li> Baba, i. <a href="#Pg_1-51">51</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-73">73</a></li> +<li> Mahommed, i. <a href="#Pg_1-88">88</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Agha Mahommed's invasion of Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-449">449</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></li> +<li>Ahwaz, i. <a href="#Pg_1-340">340</a></li> +<li>Ahwaz-Isfahan track, i. <a href="#Pg_1-340">340</a></li> +<li>Alabaster throne, i. <a href="#Pg_1-225">225</a></li> +<li>Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-317">317</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-433">433</a></li> +<li>Alamut Mt., i. <a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a></li> +<li>Alexandrovo, i. <a href="#Pg_1-3">3</a></li> +<li>Aliabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-250">250</a></li> +<li>Ali Murat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-24">24</a></li> +<li>Alliance Française, i. <a href="#Pg_1-171">171</a></li> +<li>Alliance Israelite, i. <a href="#Pg_1-172">172</a></li> +<li>Ambition, i. <a href="#Pg_1-126">126</a></li> +<li>American interests, i. <a href="#Pg_1-95">95</a></li> +<li>Amir of<ul> +<li> Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-94">94</a></li> +<li> Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-157">157</a><ul> +<li> audience of the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-185">185</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> +<li>Anar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-419">419</a></li> +<li>Ardakan Mts., i. <a href="#Pg_1-372">372</a></li> +<li>Ardeshir Meheban Irani, i. <a href="#Pg_1-405">405</a></li> +<li>Armenian<ul> +<li> Archbishop, i. <a href="#Pg_1-282">282</a></li> +<li> men, i. <a href="#Pg_1-283">283</a></li> +<li> women, i. <a href="#Pg_1-283">283</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Armenians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-282">282</a><ul> +<li> emigration of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-284">284</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Artillery, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-92">92</a></li> +<li>Assiabo Gordoneh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-374">374</a></li> +<li>Astara, i. <a href="#Pg_1-27">27</a></li> +<li>Astrabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-29">29</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-185">185</a></li> +<li>Azerbaijan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-185">185</a></li> +<li>Azizawad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-249">249</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Backhtiaris, i. <a href="#Pg_1-341">341</a></li> +<li>Badjirs, (Ventilating Shafts), i. <a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-408">408</a></li> +<li>Baghih, i. <a href="#Pg_1-428">428</a></li> +<li>Baku, i. <a href="#Pg_1-5">5</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-21">21</a><ul> +<li> native city, i. <a href="#Pg_1-23">23</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Bambis, i. <a href="#Pg_1-365">365</a></li> +<li>Bandan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-136">136</a></li> +<li>Bandan Mts., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-136">136</a></li> +<li>Bandar Abbas, i. <a href="#Pg_1-332">332</a><ul> +<li> trade of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-334">334</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Band-i-Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-227">227</a></li> +<li>Banking in Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-139">139</a></li> +<li>Bank-notes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-129">129</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-147">147</a><a name="Pg_2-448" id="Pg_2-448"></a></li> +<li>Banks, i. <a href="#Pg_1-135">135</a></li> +<li>Banque<ul> +<li> d'Escompte et de Prêts, i. <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a></li> +<li> Poliakoff, i. <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Barbers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-309">309</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-71">71</a></li> +<li>Baths, i. <a href="#Pg_1-376">376</a></li> +<li>Bazaar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-35">35</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-245">245</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-267">267</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-296">296</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-312">312</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-27">27</a></li> +<li>Beetroot Sugar Company, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-118">118</a></li> +<li>Beggars, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-30">30</a></li> +<li>Behai sect, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-391">391</a></li> +<li>Belgian Customs Officers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-337">337</a></li> +<li>Bellew, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a></li> +<li>Bellows, i. <a href="#Pg_1-255">255</a></li> +<li>Beluch, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-102">102</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-120">120</a></li> +<li>Beluch-Afghan Boundary, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-308">308</a></li> +<li>Beluch<ul> +<li> bread, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-325">325</a></li> +<li> chiefs, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-420">420</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></li> +<li> dancing, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-305">305</a></li> +<li> diet, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-417">417</a></li> +<li> dress, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-418">418</a></li> +<li> Durbar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li> dwellings, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-415">415</a></li> +<li> fakir, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-433">433</a></li> +<li> fort, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-413">413</a></li> +<li> graves, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-313">313</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-422">422</a></li> +<li> graves, section of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-402">402</a></li> +<li> graveyard, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-400">400</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li> greeting, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-276">276</a></li> +<li> hospitality, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-434">434</a></li> +<li> huts, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-434">434</a></li> +<li> implements, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-417">417</a></li> +<li> love and war songs, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-301">301</a></li> +<li> marriages, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-403">403</a></li> +<li> maternal love, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-311">311</a></li> +<li> Mesjids (or Mazit), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-363">363</a></li> +<li> music, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-296">296</a></li> +<li> ornaments, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-419">419</a></li> +<li> prisoners, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a></li> +<li> religion, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-364">364</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-423">423</a></li> +<li> rugs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li> +<li> salutations, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-356">356</a></li> +<li> tents, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-310">310</a></li> +<li> types, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-350">350</a></li> +<li> weaving looms, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-416">416</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Beluchistan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-98">98</a><ul> +<li> Persian, i. <a href="#Pg_1-191">191</a></li> +<li> subdivisions of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-381">381</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Benn, Major, R. E., British Consul, Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-145">145</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-163">163</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-168">168</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-172">172</a></li> +<li>Benn, Bazaar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></li> +<li>Biddeh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-375">375</a></li> +<li>Biddeshk, i. <a href="#Pg_1-277">277</a></li> +<li>Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-90">90</a><ul> +<li> citadel, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-92">92</a></li> +<li> city, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-91">91</a></li> +<li> commercially, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-93">93</a></li> +<li> exports, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-99">99</a></li> +<li> imports, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-98">98</a></li> +<li> industries of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-97">97</a></li> +<li> routes from, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-93">93</a></li> +<li> ruined fortress at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-90">90</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Biwarzin Yarak range, i. <a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a></li> +<li>Blackmail, i. <a href="#Pg_1-93">93</a></li> +<li>Bohemian glass, i. <a href="#Pg_1-307">307</a></li> +<li>Bokhara, Amir of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-25">25</a></li> +<li>Bombay Amelioration Society of the Parsees, i. <a href="#Pg_1-404">404</a></li> +<li>Brahui, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-365">365</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-382">382</a></li> +<li>Bread, i. <a href="#Pg_1-310">310</a><ul> +<li> making, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-259">259</a></li> +<li> of camel men, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-24">24</a></li></ul></li> +<li>British<ul> +<li> Bazaar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-151">151</a></li> +<li> flag, difficulties of hoisting the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-172">172</a></li> +<li> goods, i. <a href="#Pg_1-36">36</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-153">153</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-166">166</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-178">178</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-147">147</a></li> +<li> India Navigation Company, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-334">334</a></li> +<li> Legation, i. <a href="#Pg_1-96">96</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-98">98</a><ul> +<li> staff, i. <a href="#Pg_1-98">98</a></li></ul></li> +<li> protection, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-95">95</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-153">153</a></li> +<li> trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li> +<li> traders, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-152">152</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Britishers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-143">143</a><ul> +<li> in Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-84">84</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Bunjar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a></li> +<li>Buried city, seemingly, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-270">270</a></li> +<li>Bushire Company, i. <a href="#Pg_1-147">147</a></li> +<li>Business principles, i. <a href="#Pg_1-120">120</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Cairns, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-50">50</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-353">353</a></li> +<li>Camel<ul> +<li> men, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-2">2</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-56">56</a><ul> +<li> devoutness of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-82">82</a></li></ul></li> +<li> riding, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-8">8</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Camels, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-70">70</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-331">331</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-336">336</a></li> +<li>Canals, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-255">255</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-320">320</a></li> +<li>Capital, i. <a href="#Pg_1-120">120</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-140">140</a><a name="Pg_2-449" id="Pg_2-449"></a></li> +<li>Customs soldiers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-278">278</a></li> +<li>Caravan from Kerman to Quetta, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-159">159</a></li> +<li>Caravan men, i. <a href="#Pg_1-334">334</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-341">341</a></li> +<li>Caravans, i. <a href="#Pg_1-71">71</a></li> +<li>Caravanserais, i. <a href="#Pg_1-269">269</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-310">310</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-375">375</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-91">91</a></li> +<li>Carriage fares (Resht Teheran), i. <a href="#Pg_1-54">54</a></li> +<li>Carpet factories, i. <a href="#Pg_1-313">313</a></li> +<li>Carpets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-153">153</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-314">314</a><ul> +<li> Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-97">97</a></li> +<li> Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-316">316</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-437">437</a></li> +<li> Herat, i. <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li> +<li> Sultanabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-317">317</a></li> +<li> Tabriz, i. <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li> +<li> Turcoman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li> +<li> Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Caspian Sea,<ul> +<li> navigation of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a></li> +<li> steamers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-21">21</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Catacombs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-14">14</a></li> +<li>Cats,<ul> +<li> intelligence of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-40">40</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Cave dwellers of Nushki, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-418">418</a></li> +<li>Chagai, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-379">379</a></li> +<li>Chah-herizek, i. <a href="#Pg_1-246">246</a></li> +<li>Chah-i-Mardan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-320">320</a></li> +<li>Chah Sandan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-356">356</a></li> +<li>Chakal, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a></li> +<li>Chaman, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li>Chaman Singh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></li> +<li>Chanoh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-370">370</a></li> +<li>Chap, a Beluch dance, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-306">306</a></li> +<li>Chappar or post-horses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-259">259</a></li> +<li>Charity, i. <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a></li> +<li>Chel-Payeh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-51">51</a></li> +<li>Chiltan Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-434">434</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></li> +<li>Chinese Turkestan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-129">129</a></li> +<li>Chinese War, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-107">107</a></li> +<li>Christianisation, i. <a href="#Pg_1-391">391</a></li> +<li>Church Missionary Society, i. <a href="#Pg_1-390">390</a></li> +<li>Churches, i. <a href="#Pg_1-17">17</a></li> +<li>Churchill, Mr., acting H.B.M. Consul, Resht, i. <a href="#Pg_1-61">61</a></li> +<li>Civilising agents, i. <a href="#Pg_1-167">167</a></li> +<li>Clemenson and Marsh, Messrs., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-132">132</a></li> +<li>Clouds, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-112">112</a><ul> +<li> above the desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-80">80</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Coachmen, i. <a href="#Pg_1-57">57</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-63">63</a></li> +<li>Cocoon trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-60">60</a></li> +<li>Coin, old and new, i. <a href="#Pg_1-133">133</a></li> +<li>Coins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-237">237</a></li> +<li>Cold, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-77">77</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-81">81</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></li> +<li>Colleges and schools, i. <a href="#Pg_1-294">294</a></li> +<li>Communication, i. <a href="#Pg_1-139">139</a><ul> +<li> ways of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-160">160</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Compagnie d'Assurance et de Transport en Perse, i. <a href="#Pg_1-48">48</a></li> +<li>Company promoters, i. <a href="#Pg_1-122">122</a></li> +<li>Compensating laws of nature, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a></li> +<li>Competition in<ul> +<li> Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-97">97</a></li> +<li> trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-37">37</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Confidence in foreigners, i. <a href="#Pg_1-123">123</a></li> +<li>Conical temporary graves, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-229">229</a></li> +<li>Consular postal service, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-110">110</a></li> +<li>Consulate<ul> +<li> guard, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-178">178</a></li> +<li> hospital, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-179">179</a></li> +<li> mosque, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-177">177</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Consulates, i. <a href="#Pg_1-162">162</a><ul> +<li> British, i. <a href="#Pg_1-39">39</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Consuls, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-108">108</a></li> +<li>Copper, i. <a href="#Pg_1-276">276</a><ul> +<li> coin, i. <a href="#Pg_1-130">130</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-133">133</a></li> +<li> work, i. <a href="#Pg_1-267">267</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-305">305</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Cossacks, i. <a href="#Pg_1-6">6</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-18">18</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-349">349</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-108">108</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-139">139</a></li> +<li>Crater, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-134">134</a></li> +<li>Credit, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-101">101</a></li> +<li>Criminals, i. <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a></li> +<li>Currency, i. <a href="#Pg_1-127">127</a></li> +<li>Customs caravanserai, Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a><ul> +<li> officials, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Dadi, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-235">235</a></li> +<li>Dalbandin, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-367">367</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-397">397</a><ul> +<li> routes from, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-397">397</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Damovend Mt., i. <a href="#Pg_1-243">243</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-255">255</a></li> +<li>Dancing, i. <a href="#Pg_1-198">198</a></li> +<li>Darband, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-47">47</a><ul> +<li> Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-42">42</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-44">44</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Daria-i-Nimak (Salt Lake), i. <a href="#Pg_1-250">250</a></li> +<li>Dearth of coins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-130">130</a></li> +<li>Deawat, i. <a href="#Pg_1-374">374</a></li> +<li>Deformities, i. <a href="#Pg_1-208">208</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-245">245</a></li> +<li>Deh-i-Husena, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-251">251</a></li> +<li>Dentistry, i. <a href="#Pg_1-210">210</a></li> +<li>Deschambe bazaar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-60">60</a></li> +<li>Difficulties of traders, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-101">101</a></li> +<li>Diseases, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-115">115</a><a name="Pg_2-450" id="Pg_2-450"></a></li> +<li>Distances from Teheran to Isfahan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-280">280</a></li> +<li>Drog, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-409">409</a></li> +<li>Dry river beds, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-21">21</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-44">44</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-78">78</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-125">125</a></li> +<li>Dunes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-373">373</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-255">255</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-281">281</a></li> +<li>Duties, i. <a href="#Pg_1-156">156</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Ears of Persians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-208">208</a></li> +<li>Education, i. <a href="#Pg_1-143">143</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-386">386</a><ul> +<li> of Persians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-169">169</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Electricity of the Desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-55">55</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-70">70</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-134">134</a></li> +<li>Elongating effects of the desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-66">66</a></li> +<li>England and Russia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-162">162</a></li> +<li>English<ul> +<li> education, i. <a href="#Pg_1-174">174</a></li> +<li> goods, i. <a href="#Pg_1-96">96</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Englishman as a linguist, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-177">177</a></li> +<li>Enzeli, i. <a href="#Pg_1-26">26</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-29">29</a><ul> +<li> bay, i. <a href="#Pg_1-30">30</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Eshwark, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-361">361</a></li> +<li>Eshwerk, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-409">409</a></li> +<li>Eternal fires, i. <a href="#Pg_1-22">22</a></li> +<li>Euphrates Valley Railway, i. <a href="#Pg_1-163">163</a></li> +<li>European commercial houses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-152">152</a></li> +<li>Europeans, i. <a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a></li> +<li>European women, i. <a href="#Pg_1-298">298</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-391">391</a></li> +<li>Exchange, i. <a href="#Pg_1-138">138</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Family graves, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-400">400</a></li> +<li>Famine, i. <a href="#Pg_1-75">75</a></li> +<li>Fanatic, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-289">289</a></li> +<li>Farah Rud, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-209">209</a></li> +<li>Farmitan, ruins of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-447">447</a></li> +<li>Farming system, i. <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a></li> +<li>Fars Trading Company, i. <a href="#Pg_1-147">147</a></li> +<li>Farsakh, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-409">409</a></li> +<li>Fatabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-456">456</a></li> +<li>Fedeshk, the village of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-82">82</a></li> +<li>Fever, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-32">32</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-53">53</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-85">85</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-115">115</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-117">117</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-135">135</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-183">183</a></li> +<li>Fever-stricken, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-95">95</a><ul> +<li> people, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-83">83</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Fezahbad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-360">360</a></li> +<li>Fight between Afghans and Sistanis, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-162">162</a></li> +<li>Fin Palace, i. <a href="#Pg_1-265">265</a></li> +<li>Fire<ul> +<li> temples, i. <a href="#Pg_1-399">399</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-452">452</a><ul> +<li> destruction of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-396">396</a></li></ul></li> +<li> worshippers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-401">401</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Food for camels, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-40">40</a></li> +<li>Foreign<ul> +<li> education, i. <a href="#Pg_1-172">172</a></li> +<li> exchange, i. <a href="#Pg_1-140">140</a></li> +<li> speculations, i. <a href="#Pg_1-121">121</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Foreigners in Persian employ, i. <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a></li> +<li>Fort, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-28">28</a></li> +<li>Fortress, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-135">135</a><ul> +<li> in ruins, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-113">113</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Fossils, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-43">43</a></li> +<li>Foxes, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-71">71</a></li> +<li>Fraud, i. <a href="#Pg_1-113">113</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-116">116</a></li> +<li>Friction, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-95">95</a></li> +<li>Friday, the day of rest, i. <a href="#Pg_1-311">311</a></li> +<li>Fruit trees, i. <a href="#Pg_1-76">76</a></li> +<li>Fuel, i. <a href="#Pg_1-377">377</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Garland, James Loraine, i. <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-288">288</a></li> +<li>Gas Company, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-116">116</a></li> +<li>Gat Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-358">358</a></li> +<li>Geographical frauds, i. <a href="#Pg_1-332">332</a></li> +<li>Geological fault, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-411">411</a></li> +<li>Georgians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a></li> +<li>German<ul> +<li> commercial training, i. <a href="#Pg_1-177">177</a></li> +<li> goods, i. <a href="#Pg_1-19">19</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-96">96</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-180">180</a></li> +<li> Minister, i. <a href="#Pg_1-95">95</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Germany, i. <a href="#Pg_1-95">95</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-163">163</a></li> +<li>Ghiez, i. <a href="#Pg_1-279">279</a></li> +<li>Ghilan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-184">184</a><ul> +<li> province, i. <a href="#Pg_1-36">36</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-59">59</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-77">77</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Ghilan's trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-36">36</a></li> +<li>Ghul Khan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-235">235</a></li> +<li>Gigantic rock inscription, i. <a href="#Pg_1-453">453</a></li> +<li>Girdi, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-275">275</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-277">277</a></li> +<li>Glass, i. <a href="#Pg_1-255">255</a></li> +<li>Godar-i-Chah,<ul> +<li> ruins of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-320">320</a></li> +<li> water of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Godar-Khorassunih Pass, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-12">12</a></li> +<li>God-i-Zirreh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-322">322</a><ul> +<li> salt deposits (Afghanistan), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-316">316</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Golahek, i. <a href="#Pg_1-99">99</a></li> +<li>Golam Jelami, Dr., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-179">179</a></li> +<li>Golandeh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-115">115</a></li> +<li>Gold, i. <a href="#Pg_1-127">127</a><a name="Pg_2-451" id="Pg_2-451"></a><ul> +<li> coins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-132">132</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a></li> +<li>Goldsmiths, i. <a href="#Pg_1-122">122</a></li> +<li>Government<ul> +<li> guarantee, i. <a href="#Pg_1-341">341</a></li> +<li> of India, i. <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Grapes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-35">35</a></li> +<li>Graveyards, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-109">109</a></li> +<li>Grube, Mr., i. <a href="#Pg_1-144">144</a></li> +<li>Gullahbad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-354">354</a></li> +<li>Gurghena tribe, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-434">434</a></li> +<li>Gyabrabat, i. <a href="#Pg_1-269">269</a></li> +<li>Gypsum, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-332">332</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-333">333</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Hallucination, i. <a href="#Pg_1-65">65</a></li> +<li>Halmund water, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></li> +<li>Hamadan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-188">188</a></li> +<li>Hammam (baths), i. <a href="#Pg_1-386">386</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-440">440</a></li> +<li>Hamun-i-Halmund, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-138">138</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-280">280</a></li> +<li>Hand of prophet Nazareth Abbas, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-264">264</a></li> +<li>Haoz Panch Caravanserai, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-24">24</a></li> +<li>Hardinge, Sir Arthur, i. <a href="#Pg_1-96">96</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-221">221</a></li> +<li>Head Mullah, death of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-115">115</a></li> +<li>Heat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-39">39</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-51">51</a></li> +<li>Hindoo Caravanserai, Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-442">442</a></li> +<li>Hindoo merchants, i. <a href="#Pg_1-426">426</a></li> +<li>Hoarding, i. <a href="#Pg_1-139">139</a></li> +<li>Hodjatabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-377">377</a></li> +<li>Holy city, i. <a href="#Pg_1-253">253</a></li> +<li>Horjins (saddle-bags), i. <a href="#Pg_1-303">303</a></li> +<li>Hormak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-283">283</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-285">285</a></li> +<li>Horse fair, i. <a href="#Pg_1-18">18</a></li> +<li>Hotels, i. <a href="#Pg_1-38">38</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-40">40</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-80">80</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-81">81</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></li> +<li>Hotz and Son, i. <a href="#Pg_1-135">135</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-152">152</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-154">154</a></li> +<li>House of Commons, i. <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li> +<li>Houses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-93">93</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-365">365</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-145">145</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-256">256</a></li> +<li>Husena Baba, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-253">253</a></li> +<li>Husseinabad, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-148">148</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Ice store-houses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-266">266</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-433">433</a></li> +<li>Illuminations, i. <a href="#Pg_1-216">216</a></li> +<li>Imperial Bank of Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-43">43</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-127">127</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-135">135</a></li> +<li>Importation of arms, i. <a href="#Pg_1-320">320</a></li> +<li>Imprints, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-21">21</a></li> +<li>Incorrect maps, i. <a href="#Pg_1-331">331</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-23">23</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-140">140</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a></li> +<li>India, the invasion of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-159">159</a></li> +<li>Indian<ul> +<li> pilgrims, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-110">110</a></li> +<li> tea traders, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-153">153</a></li> +<li> teas, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-156">156</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Indo-European Telegraphs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-73">73</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-254">254</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-263">263</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-284">284</a></li> +<li>Infanticide, i. <a href="#Pg_1-208">208</a></li> +<li>Infantry soldiers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-115">115</a></li> +<li>Inscriptions and ornamentations on Chappar-Khana walls, i. <a href="#Pg_1-415">415</a></li> +<li>Intermarriage, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-65">65</a></li> +<li>Investments, i. <a href="#Pg_1-124">124</a></li> +<li>Iron, i. <a href="#Pg_1-276">276</a></li> +<li>Isfahan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-74">74</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a><ul> +<li> avenue, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-321">321</a></li> +<li> bridge, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a></li> +<li> commercially, i. <a href="#Pg_1-330">330</a></li> +<li> historical paintings, i. <a href="#Pg_1-324">324</a></li> +<li> Jewish quarters, i. <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a></li> +<li> Madrassah, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-321">321</a></li> +<li> palace, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-323">323</a></li> +<li> square of, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-296">296</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Iskil, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-195">195</a></li> +<li>Isphandiar Khan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-343">343</a></li> +<li>Itinerary of Journey,<ul> +<li> London to Baku, i. <a href="#Pg_1-1">1</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a></li> +<li> Baku to Enzeli, i. <a href="#Pg_1-26">26</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-28">28</a></li> +<li> Enzeli to Resht, i. <a href="#Pg_1-29">29</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-43">43</a></li> +<li> Resht to Teheran, i. <a href="#Pg_1-57">57</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-80">80</a></li> +<li> Teheran to Isfahan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-241">241</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-280">280</a></li> +<li> Isfahan to Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-351">351</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-380">380</a></li> +<li> Yezd to Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-408">408</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-430">430</a></li> +<li> Kerman to Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-1">1</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-89">89</a></li> +<li> Birjand to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) ii. <a href="#Pg_2-112">112</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-141">141</a></li> +<li> Sher-i-Nasrya to Zaidan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-232">232</a></li> +<li> Zaidan to Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-233">233</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-250">250</a></li> +<li> Kuh-i-Kwajah to Robat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-251">251</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-292">292</a></li> +<li> Robat to Saindak <i>viâ</i> God-i-Zirreh (Afghanistan), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-307">307</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-323">323</a></li> +<li> Saindak to Quetta, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li> Quetta to Calcutta, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a></li> +<li> Calcutta to London, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-443">443</a></li></ul></li></ul> + +<p><a name="Pg_2-452" id="Pg_2-452"></a></p> + +<ul><li>Jaffarabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-377">377</a></li> +<li>Jamsetsji N. Tata, Mr., i. <a href="#Pg_1-407">407</a></li> +<li>Janja Mt., i. <a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a></li> +<li>"Jazia" tax, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-403">403</a></li> +<li>Jewellers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-319">319</a></li> +<li>Jews, i. <a href="#Pg_1-116">116</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-290">290</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-384">384</a><ul> +<li> of Isfahan, features of the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Jubareh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a></li> +<li>Julfa, i. <a href="#Pg_1-282">282</a><ul> +<li> Europeans at, i. <a href="#Pg_1-284">284</a></li> +<li> Graveyard, i. <a href="#Pg_1-284">284</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Kajar dynasty, i. <a href="#Pg_1-88">88</a></li> +<li>Kajars, i. <a href="#Pg_1-221">221</a></li> +<li>Kala Ardeshir (fort), i. <a href="#Pg_1-445">445</a></li> +<li>Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, i. <a href="#Pg_1-443">443</a></li> +<li>Kalantar of Sistan, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-195">195</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-197">197</a></li> +<li>Kalaoteh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-10">10</a></li> +<li>Kanak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li>Kanats, i. <a href="#Pg_1-75">75</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-353">353</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-371">371</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-379">379</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-28">28</a></li> +<li>Kandahar road, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></li> +<li>Karenghi rirri, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-363">363</a></li> +<li>Karodak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-408">408</a></li> +<li>Karun River, navigation of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-340">340</a></li> +<li>Kashan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-262">262</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-263">263</a></li> +<li>Kasvin, i. <a href="#Pg_1-48">48</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-51">51</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-73">73</a><ul> +<li> Manufacturer of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-77">77</a></li> +<li> rest house, i. <a href="#Pg_1-73">73</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kavkas and Mercury Steam Navigation Company, i. <a href="#Pg_1-26">26</a></li> +<li>Kawam-ed-douleh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-113">113</a></li> +<li>Kayani, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-139">139</a></li> +<li>Kehriz Natenz peak, i. <a href="#Pg_1-277">277</a></li> +<li><i>Kerbas</i> cloth, i. <a href="#Pg_1-77">77</a></li> +<li>Kerjawa (litters), i. <a href="#Pg_1-247">247</a></li> +<li>Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-431">431</a><ul> +<li> British Consulate, i. <a href="#Pg_1-432">432</a></li> +<li> Cloths and felts, i. <a href="#Pg_1-437">437</a></li> +<li> Europeans at, i. <a href="#Pg_1-432">432</a></li> +<li> Garrison of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-435">435</a></li> +<li> Madrassah, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-439">439</a></li> +<li> to Neh, route <i>viâ</i> Khabis, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-1">1</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Keshk (cheese), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-119">119</a></li> +<li>Kevir, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-370">370</a></li> +<li>Khafe-Khanas, i. <a href="#Pg_1-65">65</a></li> +<li>Khale Mandelha, i. <a href="#Pg_1-250">250</a></li> +<li>Khan of Kelat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-380">380</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-383">383</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-394">394</a></li> +<li>Kharkoff, i. <a href="#Pg_1-18">18</a></li> +<li>Kharzan Pass, i. <a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a></li> +<li>Khorassan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-185">185</a></li> +<li>Khupah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-357">357</a></li> +<li>Khuzistan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></li> +<li>Kiafteh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-372">372</a></li> +<li>Kiev, i. <a href="#Pg_1-12">12</a></li> +<li>Kievo-Petcherskaya monastery, i. <a href="#Pg_1-14">14</a></li> +<li>Killi range, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-437">437</a></li> +<li>Kirtaka, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-312">312</a><ul> +<li> routes from, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-312">312</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kishingi, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-433">433</a></li> +<li>Kohrut, i. <a href="#Pg_1-271">271</a><ul> +<li> Dam, i. <a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kort, i. <a href="#Pg_1-72">72</a></li> +<li>Kotor, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-432">432</a></li> +<li>Kran, i. <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-139">139</a></li> +<li>Kuchaki Chah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></li> +<li>Kudum, i. <a href="#Pg_1-51">51</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-63">63</a></li> +<li>Kuh-Benan Mts., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-31">31</a></li> +<li>Kuh Djupahr, i. <a href="#Pg_1-429">429</a><ul> +<li> peaks, i. <a href="#Pg_1-428">428</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kuh-i-buhlan Pass, i. <a href="#Pg_1-272">272</a></li> +<li>Kuh-i-Daftan (Volcano), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-327">327</a></li> +<li>Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-235">235</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-250">250</a><ul> +<li> characteristic skulls, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-245">245</a></li> +<li> Dead houses, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-241">241</a></li> +<li> Gandun Piran Ziarat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></li> +<li> Graves in compartments, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-240">240</a></li> +<li> Kala-i-Kakaha, city of roars of laughter, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-238">238</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-247">247</a><ul> +<li> legends regarding, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-248">248</a></li></ul></li> +<li> Kuk fort, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-247">247</a></li> +<li> Priests' house, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-244">244</a></li> +<li> tomb of thirty-eight sections, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-242">242</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kuh-i-Malek-Siah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-282">282</a></li> +<li>Kuh-i-Maran, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li>Kum, i. <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-242">242</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-252">252</a></li> +<li>Kundi, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-351">351</a></li> +<li>Kupayeh Mountains, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-7">7</a></li> +<li>Kurdistan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-189">189</a><ul> +<li> rugs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-317">317</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Kurus peak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-10">10</a></li> +<li>Kushkuhyeh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-423">423</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a name="Pg_2-453" id="Pg_2-453"></a></p> + +<ul><li>Lahr Kuh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-293">293</a></li> +<li>Lalun mines, i. <a href="#Pg_1-117">117</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-119">119</a></li> +<li>Langherut, i. <a href="#Pg_1-256">256</a></li> +<li>Languages, i. <a href="#Pg_1-175">175</a></li> +<li>Lascelles, Sir Frank, i. <a href="#Pg_1-151">151</a></li> +<li>Laskerisha, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-309">309</a></li> +<li>Lawah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-27">27</a><ul> +<li> cat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Lawah, tracks from, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-27">27</a></li> +<li>Lawah's trade, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-28">28</a></li> +<li>Lead, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-327">327</a></li> +<li>Leather tanneries, i. <a href="#Pg_1-254">254</a></li> +<li>Legation guards, i. <a href="#Pg_1-100">100</a></li> +<li>Legations, i. <a href="#Pg_1-95">95</a></li> +<li>Leker Kuh range, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-21">21</a></li> +<li>Lenkoran, i. <a href="#Pg_1-27">27</a></li> +<li>Levantines, i. <a href="#Pg_1-61">61</a></li> +<li>Lingah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-337">337</a></li> +<li>Loaf-sugar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-37">37</a></li> +<li>Loan, six per cent., i. <a href="#Pg_1-152">152</a></li> +<li>London<ul> +<li> Society for promoting Christianity amongst the Jews of Isfahan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a></li> +<li> Stock Exchange, i. <a href="#Pg_1-137">137</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Luft-Ali-Khan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-450">450</a></li> +<li>Luristan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></li> +<li>Lynch Brothers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-342">342</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Maclean incident, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-156">156</a></li> +<li>MacMahon, Major A. H., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-351">351</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-378">378</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-412">412</a></li> +<li>McGregor, Sir Charles, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-351">351</a></li> +<li>Mahala-Giabr, i. <a href="#Pg_1-449">449</a></li> +<li>Mahommed<ul> +<li> Ali Brothers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-151">151</a></li> +<li> Azim Khan Brothers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-152">152</a></li> +<li> Azin, a <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'decendant'">descendant</ins> of the Kayani, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-239">239</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-252">252</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Mahommed<ul> +<li> Hayab, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-152">152</a></li> +<li> Raza Chah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-262">262</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-310">310</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Mahommerah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-339">339</a><ul> +<li> trade of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-344">344</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Maiden's Tower, Baku, i. <a href="#Pg_1-23">23</a></li> +<li>Maladministration, i. <a href="#Pg_1-131">131</a></li> +<li>Malayer and Borujird districts, i. <a href="#Pg_1-189">189</a></li> +<li>Malcolm, Rev. Napier, i. <a href="#Pg_1-389">389</a></li> +<li>Malek-Siah, Ziarat, (where three countries meet), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-287">287</a></li> +<li>Mall, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-410">410</a></li> +<li>Marble, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-345">345</a></li> +<li>Market worth cultivating, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-157">157</a></li> +<li>Massacre of Jews, i. <a href="#Pg_1-291">291</a></li> +<li>Matsuma Fatima, i. <a href="#Pg_1-253">253</a></li> +<li>Mazanderan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-185">185</a></li> +<li>Meftah-el-Mulk, i. <a href="#Pg_1-103">103</a></li> +<li>Meftah-es-Sultaneh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-102">102</a></li> +<li>Meh-rab Shrine, i. <a href="#Pg_1-264">264</a></li> +<li>Meiboh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-375">375</a></li> +<li>Menzil, i. <a href="#Pg_1-68">68</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a><ul> +<li> bridge, i. <a href="#Pg_1-51">51</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Meshed horses for remounts, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-148">148</a></li> +<li>Meshed-i-Sher, i. <a href="#Pg_1-29">29</a></li> +<li>Meshed,<ul> +<li> pilgrimage to the sacred shrine of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-95">95</a></li> +<li> track to, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-73">73</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Mesjids, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-403">403</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-433">433</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li>Miletor, Mr., Belgian Customs Officer, Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></li> +<li>Military<ul> +<li> Drill, i. <a href="#Pg_1-112">112</a></li> +<li> officers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-92">92</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-103">103</a></li> +<li> Political Service, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-168">168</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Miller, Mr., Russian Vice-Consul for Sistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-149">149</a></li> +<li>Minerals, i. <a href="#Pg_1-188">188</a></li> +<li>Mint, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-128">128</a></li> +<li>Mirage, i. <a href="#Pg_1-260">260</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-373">373</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-356">356</a></li> +<li>Mirjawa, track to, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-312">312</a></li> +<li>Mirui, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-359">359</a></li> +<li>Mirza Hassan Ashtiani, i. <a href="#Pg_1-150">150</a></li> +<li>Mirza-Taki-Khan, Assassination of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-265">265</a></li> +<li>Missionaries, i. <a href="#Pg_1-85">85</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-281">281</a></li> +<li>Missionary work, i. <a href="#Pg_1-389">389</a></li> +<li>Misstatements, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></li> +<li>Model farm, i. <a href="#Pg_1-118">118</a></li> +<li>Moisture, i. <a href="#Pg_1-59">59</a></li> +<li>Mol-Ali, i. <a href="#Pg_1-70">70</a></li> +<li>Money, i. <a href="#Pg_1-124">124</a></li> +<li>Morad-Khan Kella, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-435">435</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-436">436</a></li> +<li>Mosques, i. <a href="#Pg_1-93">93</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-253">253</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-264">264</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-266">266</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-267">267</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-296">296</a></li> +<li>Motor cars, i. <a href="#Pg_1-239">239</a></li> +<li>Mount Sofia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-284">284</a></li> +<li>Moving pictures, i. <a href="#Pg_1-233">233</a></li> +<li>Mudir School, i. <a href="#Pg_1-387">387</a><a name="Pg_2-454" id="Pg_2-454"></a></li> +<li>Mudonek Ateng Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-433">433</a></li> +<li>Muht, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-113">113</a></li> +<li>Mukak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-328">328</a></li> +<li>Mullahs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-44">44</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-92">92</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-124">124</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-150">150</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-170">170</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-253">253</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-285">285</a></li> +<li>Murchikhar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a></li> +<li>Murd-ap, i. <a href="#Pg_1-31">31</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a></li> +<li>Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-104">104</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-106">106</a></li> +<li>Mushki-Chah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-345">345</a></li> +<li>Mushroom-shaped Mount, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-286">286</a></li> +<li>Music, i. <a href="#Pg_1-435">435</a></li> +<li>Mustang track, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-437">437</a></li> +<li>Muzaffer-ed-din Shah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-138">138</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Naiband<ul> +<li> Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-56">56</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-58">58</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-78">78</a></li> +<li> village of, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-57">57</a></li> +<li> villagers, clothes of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-68">68</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Nao Gombes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-369">369</a></li> +<li>Naphtha, i. <a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></li> +<li>Napier, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-321">321</a></li> +<li>Nasirabad, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-139">139</a></li> +<li>Nassirabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-261">261</a></li> +<li>Native Merchants in Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-98">98</a></li> +<li>Natives, troublesome, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-61">61</a></li> +<li>Naus, Mr., i. <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a></li> +<li>Nawar-Chah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-279">279</a></li> +<li>New Consulate buildings, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-174">174</a></li> +<li>Nharui, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-382">382</a></li> +<li>Nickel coins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-131">131</a></li> +<li>Nihilists, i. <a href="#Pg_1-18">18</a></li> +<li>Northern Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-53">53</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-145">145</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li> +<li>Nose of Persians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-210">210</a></li> +<li>Nushki, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-395">395</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-414">414</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-432">432</a><ul> +<li> Bazaar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></li> +<li> Beluch durbar at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-420">420</a></li> +<li> Beluch tribes near, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-414">414</a></li> +<li> Caravanserais, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-427">427</a></li> +<li> health of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-427">427</a></li> +<li> hospital, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-427">427</a></li> +<li> projected Railway, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-429">429</a></li> +<li> Tashil, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-425">425</a></li> +<li> Tashildar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-425">425</a></li> +<li> trade of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-428">428</a></li> +<li> Traders in, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-396">396</a></li> +<li> route, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-96">96</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-153">153</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-367">367</a><ul> +<li> Advice to traders, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-371">371</a></li> +<li> concession to traders by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-370">370</a></li> +<li> evolutions of the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-376">376</a></li> +<li> first to travel from London to Quetta by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-371">371</a></li> +<li> forwarding agents by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-370">370</a></li> +<li> game on the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-397">397</a></li> +<li> pilgrims by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-372">372</a></li> +<li> post offices on the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-369">369</a></li> +<li> railway rebate on freight for goods by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-370">370</a></li> +<li> Rest houses on the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-368">368</a></li> +<li> trade of the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-147">147</a></li> +<li> traffic on the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-368">368</a></li> +<li> travellers by the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-371">371</a></li> +<li> water supply on the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-369">369</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Oasis, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-56">56</a></li> +<li>Observation, i. <a href="#Pg_1-174">174</a></li> +<li>Officials, i. <a href="#Pg_1-113">113</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-86">86</a></li> +<li>Oil wells, i. <a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-22">22</a></li> +<li>Opium, i. <a href="#Pg_1-435">435</a><ul> +<li> smoking, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-29">29</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-83">83</a><ul> +<li> effects of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-84">84</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> +<li>Orphans, college for, i. <a href="#Pg_1-104">104</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Padag, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-409">409</a></li> +<li>Paichinar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-70">70</a></li> +<li>Paintings, i. <a href="#Pg_1-229">229</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-236">236</a></li> +<li>Palawan (strong man), the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-329">329</a></li> +<li>Palm-trees, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-28">28</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-136">136</a></li> +<li>Parsee,<ul> +<li> British Subjects in Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-405">405</a></li> +<li> ceremonies, i. <a href="#Pg_1-400">400</a></li> +<li> generosity, i. <a href="#Pg_1-407">407</a></li> +<li> national assembly, i. <a href="#Pg_1-405">405</a></li> +<li> priests, i. <a href="#Pg_1-400">400</a></li> +<li> school, i. <a href="#Pg_1-388">388</a></li> +<li> traders, i. <a href="#Pg_1-404">404</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Parsees<ul> +<li> of India, i. <a href="#Pg_1-173">173</a></li> +<li> of Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-443">443</a></li> +<li> fire of the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-402">402</a></li> +<li> or Guebre (Zoroastrians) of Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-394">394</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-407">407</a></li> +<li> <ins class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Zorastrians'">Zoroastrians</ins>, i. <a href="#Pg_1-383">383</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-449">449</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Pasand Khan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-397">397</a><a name="Pg_2-455" id="Pg_2-455"></a></li> +<li>Passangun, i. <a href="#Pg_1-257">257</a></li> +<li>Passports, i. <a href="#Pg_1-31">31</a></li> +<li>Patang Kuh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-254">254</a></li> +<li>Pearls, i. <a href="#Pg_1-237">237</a></li> +<li>Persecution, i. <a href="#Pg_1-292">292</a>-<a href="#Pg_1-295">295</a></li> +<li>Persian<ul> +<li> Army, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-111">111</a></li> +<li> cats, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-6">6</a></li> +<li> Cossack regiment, i. <a href="#Pg_1-115">115</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-222">222</a></li> +<li> crowds, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-110">110</a></li> +<li> Customs duty, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-167">167</a></li> +<li> dancing, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-304">304</a></li> +<li> dinner, i. <a href="#Pg_1-456">456</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-458">458</a></li> +<li> expedition against Beluch, i. <a href="#Pg_1-435">435</a></li> +<li> Gulf, i. <a href="#Pg_1-164">164</a><ul> +<li> Trading Company, i. <a href="#Pg_1-135">135</a></li></ul></li> +<li> Imperial Government, obligations of the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-138">138</a></li> +<li> justice, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-189">189</a></li> +<li> markets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-138">138</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-167">167</a></li> +<li> music, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-302">302</a></li> +<li> musical instruments, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-303">303</a></li> +<li> officials, i. <a href="#Pg_1-102">102</a></li> +<li> Question, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-98">98</a></li> +<li> soldiers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-434">434</a></li> +<li> tea market, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-154">154</a></li> +<li> telegraphs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-352">352</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-363">363</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-371">371</a></li> +<li> the, as a soldier, i. <a href="#Pg_1-111">111</a></li> +<li> wedding, i. <a href="#Pg_1-193">193</a></li> +<li> women's<ul> +<li> dress, i. <a href="#Pg_1-211">211</a></li> +<li> jewels, i. <a href="#Pg_1-213">213</a></li> +<li> out-of-door dress, i. <a href="#Pg_1-213">213</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> +<li>Persia's condition, i. <a href="#Pg_1-109">109</a></li> +<li>Perso-Beluch frontier, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-343">343</a></li> +<li>Petroleum express, i. <a href="#Pg_1-5">5</a></li> +<li>Phillot, Major, H.B.M.'s Consul, Kerman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-432">432</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a></li> +<li>Phonograph, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-178">178</a></li> +<li>Pigeon towers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-352">352</a></li> +<li>Pilgrimage for sterile women, i. <a href="#Pg_1-455">455</a></li> +<li>Pilgrims, i. <a href="#Pg_1-15">15</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-73">73</a></li> +<li>Pilgrims, Indian, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-95">95</a></li> +<li>Pipes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-308">308</a></li> +<li>Piri<ul> +<li> Bazaar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-32">32</a></li> +<li> Road, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-437">437</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Pish, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-358">358</a></li> +<li>Pits, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-118">118</a></li> +<li>Plague, fears of the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-374">374</a></li> +<li>Plucky Englishwoman, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-173">173</a></li> +<li>Policy of drift, i. <a href="#Pg_1-164">164</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-340">340</a></li> +<li>Political service, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-108">108</a></li> +<li>Polygamy, i. <a href="#Pg_1-192">192</a></li> +<li>Portraits of sovereigns, i. <a href="#Pg_1-235">235</a></li> +<li>Post<ul> +<li> horses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-267">267</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-409">409</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-418">418</a></li> +<li> offices, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-293">293</a></li> +<li> stations, i. <a href="#Pg_1-63">63</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Practical Mission work, i. <a href="#Pg_1-289">289</a></li> +<li>Praga, i. <a href="#Pg_1-7">7</a></li> +<li>Preece, Mr., British Consul-General, Isfahan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-279">279</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-286">286</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-348">348</a></li> +<li>Preparing bodies for interment, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-401">401</a></li> +<li>Prime Minister, i. <a href="#Pg_1-223">223</a></li> +<li>Princes, i. <a href="#Pg_1-67">67</a></li> +<li>Prisoners, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-426">426</a></li> +<li>Protection against heat, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-38">38</a></li> +<li>Protest, a, i. <a href="#Pg_1-150">150</a></li> +<li>Punctuality, i. <a href="#Pg_1-125">125</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-242">242</a></li> +<li>Pusht-i-Kuh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-190">190</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Queen Victoria's portrait, i. <a href="#Pg_1-232">232</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-235">235</a></li> +<li>Quetta, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></li> +<li>Quivering Minarets, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-328">328</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Rabino, Mr., i. <a href="#Pg_1-130">130</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-136">136</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-144">144</a></li> +<li>Rafsenju, routes from, i. <a href="#Pg_1-425">425</a></li> +<li>Rahdari tax, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-167">167</a></li> +<li>Railway, i. <a href="#Pg_1-91">91</a><ul> +<li> to Kandahar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li> travelling, i. <a href="#Pg_1-20">20</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-55">55</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Railways needed, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-148">148</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a></li> +<li>Rain, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-112">112</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-286">286</a></li> +<li>Redress, i. <a href="#Pg_1-277">277</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-153">153</a></li> +<li>Regheth, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-330">330</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-334">334</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-358">358</a></li> +<li>Registan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-395">395</a></li> +<li>Reliability of Sistanis, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-161">161</a></li> +<li>Religious education, i. <a href="#Pg_1-172">172</a></li> +<li>Removals, i. <a href="#Pg_1-100">100</a></li> +<li>Resht, i. <a href="#Pg_1-35">35</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-44">44</a><ul> +<li> Governor-General of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-62">62</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Respect of natives, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-145">145</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-178">178</a></li> +<li>Rest houses, i. <a href="#Pg_1-64">64</a><ul> +<li> in North Beluchistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-294">294</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Rice, i. <a href="#Pg_1-61">61</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-77">77</a><a name="Pg_2-456" id="Pg_2-456"></a></li> +<li>Road Concession, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-242">242</a></li> +<li>Robat (Beluchistan)<ul> +<li> frontier post, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-291">291</a></li> +<li> Garrison needed at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-170">170</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Robbers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-270">270</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-273">273</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-277">277</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-361">361</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-410">410</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-73">73</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-122">122</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-135">135</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-352">352</a></li> +<li>Rock<ul> +<li> habitations, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-15">15</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-57">57</a></li> +<li> sculpture at Shah Abdul Hazim, i. <a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Rostoff, i. <a href="#Pg_1-18">18</a></li> +<li>Routes, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-73">73</a><ul> +<li> across the Salt Desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-46">46</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Royal college, Teheran, i. <a href="#Pg_1-170">170</a></li> +<li>Rudbar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-68">68</a></li> +<li>Ruins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-351">351</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-382">382</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-28">28</a></li> +<li>Russia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-163">163</a></li> +<li>Russian<ul> +<li> Bank, i. <a href="#Pg_1-42">42</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-137">137</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-188">188</a></li> +<li> competition, i. <a href="#Pg_1-48">48</a></li> +<li> Custom House, i. <a href="#Pg_1-2">2</a></li> +<li> goods, i. <a href="#Pg_1-53">53</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-147">147</a></li> +<li> Government, i. <a href="#Pg_1-129">129</a><ul> +<li> grant, i. <a href="#Pg_1-346">346</a></li></ul></li> +<li> influence, i. <a href="#Pg_1-343">343</a></li> +<li> line of steamers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-337">337</a></li> +<li> loan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-127">127</a></li> +<li> market, i. <a href="#Pg_1-167">167</a></li> +<li> protective tariff, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-156">156</a></li> +<li> railway travelling, i. <a href="#Pg_1-7">7</a></li> +<li> road, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-47">47</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-50">50</a><ul> +<li> capital employed in construction of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-52">52</a></li> +<li> tolls, i. <a href="#Pg_1-54">54</a></li></ul></li> +<li> roads in Persia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-162">162</a></li> +<li> tariff, i. <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li> +<li> tea market, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-155">155</a></li> +<li> the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-143">143</a></li> +<li> Vice-Consul, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-172">172</a></li> +<li> Vice-Consulate, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-149">149</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Russia's<ul> +<li> aim in the Persian Gulf, i. <a href="#Pg_1-332">332</a></li> +<li> commercial success, i. <a href="#Pg_1-182">182</a></li> +<li> trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-145">145</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-155">155</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Rustamabad, i. <a href="#Pg_1-64">64</a></li> +<li>Rustam's house, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-264">264</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Sadek, i. <a href="#Pg_1-241">241</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-243">243</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-442">442</a></li> +<li>Sahib Chah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-334">334</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-337">337</a></li> +<li>Sahlabad, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-120">120</a></li> +<li>Saïd Khan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-295">295</a></li> +<li>Saigsi, i. <a href="#Pg_1-354">354</a></li> +<li>Saindak Mt., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-307">307</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-324">324</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-326">326</a></li> +<li>Salaam to Mecca, i. <a href="#Pg_1-257">257</a></li> +<li>Salambar Mt., i. <a href="#Pg_1-69">69</a></li> +<li>Salare Afkham, H. E., i. <a href="#Pg_1-40">40</a></li> +<li>Salt<ul> +<li> and Sand, i. <a href="#Pg_1-427">427</a></li> +<li> deposits, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-24">24</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-119">119</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-124">124</a></li> +<li> desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-36">36</a><ul> +<li> journey across, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-1">1</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-89">89</a></li></ul></li> +<li> incrustations, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-280">280</a></li> +<li> sediments, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-21">21</a></li> +<li> stream, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-75">75</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-78">78</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-129">129</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sanctuaries, i. <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a></li> +<li>Sand<ul> +<li> bar, i. <a href="#Pg_1-374">374</a></li> +<li> barchans, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-355">355</a><ul> +<li> formation of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-318">318</a></li></ul></li> +<li> deposits, i. <a href="#Pg_1-422">422</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sand<ul> +<li> dunes, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-408">408</a></li> +<li> hills, i. <a href="#Pg_1-377">377</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-290">290</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-315">315</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-407">407</a></li> +<li> mounts, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a></li> +<li> movement and accumulations, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-271">271</a></li> +<li> storm, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-24">24</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sara Mountains, i. <a href="#Pg_1-361">361</a></li> +<li>Sar-es-iap<ul> +<li> (No. 1), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-9">9</a></li> +<li> (No. 2), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-14">14</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sar-i-Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-410">410</a></li> +<li>Sar-tip, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-162">162</a></li> +<li>Sayids, i. <a href="#Pg_1-207">207</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-368">368</a></li> +<li>Sefid-Rud (River), i. <a href="#Pg_1-51">51</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-63">63</a></li> +<li>Serde-Kuh (Mts.), i. <a href="#Pg_1-414">414</a></li> +<li>Servants, i. <a href="#Pg_1-86">86</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-241">241</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-420">420</a></li> +<li>Shah-Abdul-Azim, i. <a href="#Pg_1-91">91</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-118">118</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-244">244</a></li> +<li>Shah, an audience of the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-219">219</a></li> +<li>Shah Rud (River), i. <a href="#Pg_1-70">70</a></li> +<li>Shah's<ul> +<li> Anderum or Harem, i. <a href="#Pg_1-238">238</a></li> +<li> automobile, i. <a href="#Pg_1-218">218</a></li> +<li> banqueting room, i. <a href="#Pg_1-229">229</a></li> +<li> birthday, i. <a href="#Pg_1-216">216</a></li> +<li> country residences, i. <a href="#Pg_1-238">238</a></li> +<li> favourite apartments, i. <a href="#Pg_1-230">230</a></li> +<li> Jewelled-Globe room, i. <a href="#Pg_1-232">232</a></li> +<li> Museum, i. <a href="#Pg_1-227">227</a></li> +<li> Palace, i. <a href="#Pg_1-225">225</a></li> +<li> son, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-239">239</a></li> +<li> stables, i. <a href="#Pg_1-89">89</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Shai, i. <a href="#Pg_1-131">131</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-133">133</a></li> +<li>Shehrawat, i. <a href="#Pg_1-371">371</a></li> +<li>Shela (the Salt River), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-279">279</a></li> +<li>Shemsh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-418">418</a></li> +<li>Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-140">140</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-142">142</a><a name="Pg_2-457" id="Pg_2-457"></a></li> +<li>Sher-i-Rustam (Rustam's city), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-263">263</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-269">269</a></li> +<li>Shiraz wines, i. <a href="#Pg_1-191">191</a></li> +<li>Shirkuh Mt., i. <a href="#Pg_1-373">373</a></li> +<li>Shops, i. <a href="#Pg_1-35">35</a></li> +<li>Siberia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-166">166</a></li> +<li>Sibi horse fair, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li>Silk, i. <a href="#Pg_1-60">60</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-77">77</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-409">409</a><ul> +<li> carpets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-317">317</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Silver, i. <a href="#Pg_1-127">127</a><ul> +<li> coin,<ul> +<li> drain of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-128">128</a></li> +<li> purchasing power of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-128">128</a></li></ul></li> +<li> coins, i. <a href="#Pg_1-132">132</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sin Sin, i. <a href="#Pg_1-260">260</a></li> +<li>Sistan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-185">185</a><ul> +<li> Articles saleable in, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-158">158</a></li> +<li> British influence in, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-161">161</a></li> +<li> commercially, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-157">157</a></li> +<li> exports from, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-159">159</a></li> +<li> Vice-Consulate, history of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-171">171</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sistan's<ul> +<li> health and prevalent diseases, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-180">180</a></li> +<li> transition, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-161">161</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Small-pox, i. <a href="#Pg_1-70">70</a></li> +<li>Société de<ul> +<li> Chemins de Fer et des Tramways de Perse, i. <a href="#Pg_1-91">91</a></li> +<li> Prêts de Perse, i. <a href="#Pg_1-143">143</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Soh, i. <a href="#Pg_1-276">276</a></li> +<li>Soldiers, i. <a href="#Pg_1-222">222</a></li> +<li>Sorag, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-409">409</a></li> +<li>Sotag, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-361">361</a></li> +<li>"Spear of the Sultan," the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-352">352</a></li> +<li>Speculators, i. <a href="#Pg_1-147">147</a></li> +<li>Stable of Rustam's legendary horse, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-268">268</a></li> +<li>Stars and planets, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-36">36</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-114">114</a></li> +<li>State Bank of St. Petersburg, i. <a href="#Pg_1-144">144</a></li> +<li>Statistics, i. <a href="#Pg_1-62">62</a></li> +<li>Stern, Dr., i. <a href="#Pg_1-287">287</a></li> +<li>Stone pillar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-314">314</a></li> +<li>Stuart, Miss, i. <a href="#Pg_1-289">289</a></li> +<li>Sugar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-98">98</a></li> +<li>Sultan Mts., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-351">351</a></li> +<li>Summer<ul> +<li> Residences, i. <a href="#Pg_1-99">99</a></li> +<li> Terraces at Warmal, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-255">255</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Sunge (transit due), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-395">395</a></li> +<li>Sunsets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-251">251</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-274">274</a><ul> +<li> in the Desert, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-79">79</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Superstition, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-365">365</a></li> +<li>Surmah, i. <a href="#Pg_1-206">206</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-327">327</a></li> +<li>Sweets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-302">302</a></li> +<li>Sykes, Major, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-159">159</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-237">237</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Tabriz, i. <a href="#Pg_1-186">186</a></li> +<li>Tadji, i. <a href="#Pg_1-213">213</a></li> +<li>Takatu Mts., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-434">434</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-440">440</a></li> +<li>Tamarisk (kirri), ii. <a href="#Pg_2-262">262</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-312">312</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-353">353</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-359">359</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-361">361</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li>Teeth of Persians, i. <a href="#Pg_1-209">209</a></li> +<li>Teheran, i. <a href="#Pg_1-79">79</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-87">87</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-184">184</a><ul> +<li> amusements in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-85">85</a></li> +<li> etiquette in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-85">85</a></li> +<li> European quarters in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-88">88</a></li> +<li> foreigners in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-86">86</a></li> +<li> "Place du Canon," the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-88">88</a></li> +<li> social sets, i. <a href="#Pg_1-85">85</a></li> +<li> "Top Meidan," in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-90">90</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Tejerish, i. <a href="#Pg_1-99">99</a></li> +<li>Tek-chand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-151">151</a></li> +<li>Telegraph needed, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a></li> +<li>Telegraphs, i. <a href="#Pg_1-98">98</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-139">139</a></li> +<li>Temporary consulate, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-174">174</a></li> +<li>Territorial rights, i. <a href="#Pg_1-168">168</a></li> +<li>Thefts, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-166">166</a></li> +<li>Theological college, i. <a href="#Pg_1-254">254</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-264">264</a></li> +<li>Thirst, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-54">54</a></li> +<li>Time, i. <a href="#Pg_1-125">125</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-142">142</a></li> +<li>Tobacco, i. <a href="#Pg_1-37">37</a></li> +<li>Tobacco Corporation, the, i. <a href="#Pg_1-148">148</a></li> +<li>Tokrajie Mts., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-31">31</a></li> +<li>Toman, i. <a href="#Pg_1-58">58</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a></li> +<li>Tower, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-45">45</a><ul> +<li> of silence, i. <a href="#Pg_1-378">378</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Trade<ul> +<li> caravanserais, i. <a href="#Pg_1-442">442</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-97">97</a></li> +<li> increase in, i. <a href="#Pg_1-36">36</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Tramways, i. <a href="#Pg_1-91">91</a></li> +<li>Transcaspia, i. <a href="#Pg_1-128">128</a></li> +<li>Treasuring of capital, i. <a href="#Pg_1-121">121</a></li> +<li>Treaties, sanads and engagements with the Khan of Khelat and other Beluch chiefs, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-381">381</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-394">394</a></li> +<li>Trench, Major G. Chevenix, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-144">144</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-172">172</a></li> +<li>Tretoh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-353">353</a></li> +<li>Tribal feuds, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-396">396</a></li> +<li>Twilight, i. <a href="#Pg_1-251">251</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-80">80</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-275">275</a></li> +<li>Types of natives, i. <a href="#Pg_1-354">354</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-367">367</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-16">16</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-63">63</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-257">257</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Umar-al-din Khan, a British trader, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-97">97</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-99">99</a></li> +</ul> + +<p><a name="Pg_2-458" id="Pg_2-458"></a></p> + +<ul><li>Vanity, i. <a href="#Pg_1-122">122</a></li> +<li>Vegetation, i. <a href="#Pg_1-59">59</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-62">62</a></li> +<li>Veziroff Gazumbek, Russian agent, Birjand, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-107">107</a></li> +<li>Volcanic<ul> +<li> formation, i. <a href="#Pg_1-71">71</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-128">128</a></li> +<li> region, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-13">13</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Votka, i. <a href="#Pg_1-19">19</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Walton, M.P., Mr. Joseph, i. <a href="#Pg_1-161">161</a></li> +<li>Warmal, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-255">255</a></li> +<li>Warsaw, i. <a href="#Pg_1-5">5</a></li> +<li>Water, i. <a href="#Pg_1-62">62</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-258">258</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-278">278</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-355">355</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-374">374</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-382">382</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-48">48</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-51">51</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-59">59</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-75">75</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-77">77</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-120">120</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-126">126</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-277">277</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-326">326</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-334">334</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-336">336</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-353">353</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-357">357</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-362">362</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-366">366</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-369">369</a></li> +<li>Water-melons, i. <a href="#Pg_1-260">260</a></li> +<li>Water-skins, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-72">72</a></li> +<li>Weapons, i. <a href="#Pg_1-236">236</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-319">319</a></li> +<li>Weaving-loom, i. <a href="#Pg_1-366">366</a></li> +<li>Webb-Ware, C.I.E., Captain F. C., Political Assistant at Chagai, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-147">147</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-170">170</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-357">357</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-367">367</a></li> +<li>Well for unfaithful women, i. <a href="#Pg_1-202">202</a></li> +<li>Wheat from Arabistan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-342">342</a></li> +<li>Whirlwinds, i. <a href="#Pg_1-361">361</a></li> +<li>White, Captain, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-169">169</a></li> +<li>White, Dr. Henry, i. <a href="#Pg_1-392">392</a></li> +<li>Wife, price of a Beluch, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-404">404</a></li> +<li>Wind, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-75">75</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-81">81</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-408">408</a></li> +<li>Wind of 120 days, the, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-150">150</a></li> +<li>Windmills, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-136">136</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-149">149</a></li> +<li>Witte, Mr. de, i. <a href="#Pg_1-144">144</a></li> +<li>Wolves, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-15">15</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-34">34</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-71">71</a></li> +<li>Woman's society, i. <a href="#Pg_1-84">84</a></li> +<li>Women, i. <a href="#Pg_1-428">428</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-429">429</a>; ii. <a href="#Pg_2-66">66</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-137">137</a><ul> +<li> anatomically, i. <a href="#Pg_1-205">205</a></li> +<li> seclusion of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-193">193</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Work of Mission among Jews, i. <a href="#Pg_1-288">288</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Yadgar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-408">408</a></li> +<li>Yate, C.S.I., C.M.G., Colonel C. E., Agent to Governor-General of Beluchistan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-441">441</a></li> +<li>Yezd, i. <a href="#Pg_1-381">381</a><ul> +<li> citadel, i. <a href="#Pg_1-385">385</a></li> +<li> European community, i. <a href="#Pg_1-391">391</a></li> +<li> Government of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-385">385</a></li> +<li> Governor of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-385">385</a></li> +<li> health of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-390">390</a></li> +<li> hospital, i. <a href="#Pg_1-390">390</a></li> +<li> population of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-383">383</a></li> +<li> trade, i. <a href="#Pg_1-383">383</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul><li>Zagar Mengal tribe, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-395">395</a></li> +<li>Zaidan, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-260">260</a><ul> +<li> history of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-219">219</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-232">232</a><ul> +<li> architecture, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-226">226</a></li> +<li> Bellew, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-225">225</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-230">230</a></li> +<li> Canals, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-227">227</a></li> +<li> Canals dry, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-232">232</a></li> +<li> caravanserai at Kala-i-fath, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-231">231</a></li> +<li> Deshtak, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></li> +<li> devastation of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-221">221</a></li> +<li> Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-223">223</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-230">230</a></li> +<li> Jalalabad, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></li> +<li> Kayani Kings, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-231">231</a></li> +<li> Kayani Maliks, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-221">221</a></li> +<li> Nad-i-Ali, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></li> +<li> Nadir Shah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-231">231</a></li> +<li> Peshawaran, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-223">223</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-225">225</a></li> +<li> Pulki, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-222">222</a></li> +<li> Rud-i-Perian, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-228">228</a></li> +<li> Safavi Dynasty, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-221">221</a></li> +<li> Shah Rukh Shah, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a></li> +<li> Taimur Lang, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-221">221</a></li></ul></li> +<li> the great city, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-187">187</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-232">232</a><ul> +<li> Arabic inscriptions, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-215">215</a>-<a href="#Pg_2-217">217</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-223">223</a></li> +<li> Chir-pir or tomb of 40 saints, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a></li> +<li> citadel, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a></li> +<li> covered passages, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-206">206</a></li> +<li> curiosities found at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-196">196</a></li> +<li> extensive graveyard, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-211">211</a></li> +<li> Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. <a href="#Pg_2-202">202</a></li> +<li> graves, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-214">214</a></li> +<li> high wall and towers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-205">205</a></li> +<li> ice store-houses, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-203">203</a><a name="Pg_2-459" id="Pg_2-459"></a></li> +<li> imposing citadel, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-204">204</a></li> +<li> Kala-i-fath, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-213">213</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-226">226</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-230">230</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-231">231</a></li> +<li> Lash Yuwain, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-194">194</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-209">209</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-226">226</a></li> +<li> Length and breadth, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></li> +<li> length of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-209">209</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-232">232</a></li> +<li> Mil-i-Zaidan pillar, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-201">201</a></li> +<li> objects found at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-215">215</a></li> +<li> oil lamps excavated at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-217">217</a></li> +<li> outer towers, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-203">203</a></li> +<li> protecting fortresses, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-220">220</a></li> +<li> remains of double wall, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-210">210</a></li> +<li> Rud-i-Nasru, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-213">213</a><ul> +<li> Canal, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-208">208</a></li></ul></li> +<li> Sand accumulations, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-213">213</a></li> +<li> strange image excavated at, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-218">218</a></li> +<li> Sykes, Major, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-202">202</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-228">228</a></li> +<li> Tablets, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-216">216</a></li> +<li> Unroofed structures, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-211">211</a></li> +<li> Wall, continuation of, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-207">207</a></li></ul></li></ul></li> +<li>Zein-ed-din tower, i. <a href="#Pg_1-264">264</a></li> +<li>Zemahlabad fort, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-155">155</a></li> +<li>Zen-u-din, i. <a href="#Pg_1-413">413</a></li> +<li>Ziarats, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-337">337</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-352">352</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-356">356</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-398">398</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-423">423</a>, <a href="#Pg_2-438">438</a></li> +<li>Ziegler & Co., i. <a href="#Pg_1-134">134</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-152">152</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-318">318</a></li> +<li>Zil-es-Sultan, i. <a href="#Pg_1-323">323</a>, <a href="#Pg_1-349">349</a><ul> +<li> an audience of, i. <a href="#Pg_1-350">350</a></li></ul></li> +<li>Zirreh, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-280">280</a></li> +<li>Zorap, ii. <a href="#Pg_2-270">270</a></li> +<li>Zoroaster, i. <a href="#Pg_1-396">396</a></li> +<li>Zoroastrian religion, i. <a href="#Pg_1-398">398</a></li> +</ul> + +<hr /> +<h4>THE END.</h4> + + +<h5>RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.</h5> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS COVETED LANDS ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following +the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use +of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for +copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very +easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation +of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project +Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may +do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected +by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark +license, especially commercial redistribution. +</div> + +<div style='margin-top:1em; font-size:1.1em; text-align:center'>START: FULL LICENSE</div> +<div style='text-align:center;font-size:0.9em'>THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE</div> +<div style='text-align:center;font-size:0.9em'>PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project +Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person +or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the +Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when +you share it without charge with others. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country other than the United States. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work +on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the +phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: +</div> + +<blockquote> + <div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most + other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions + whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms + of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online + at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you + are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws + of the country where you are located before using this eBook. + </div> +</blockquote> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project +Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg™ License. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format +other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain +Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +provided that: +</div> + +<div style='margin-left:0.7em;'> + <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> + • You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation.” + </div> + + <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> + • You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ + works. + </div> + + <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> + • You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + </div> + + <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> + • You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works. + </div> +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of +the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set +forth in Section 3 below. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right +of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™ +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, +Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up +to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website +and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact +</div> + +<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread +public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state +visit <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/donate/">www.gutenberg.org/donate</a>. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate +</div> + +<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Most people start at our website which has the main PG search +facility: <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. +</div> + +</div> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/22117-h/images/cover.jpg b/22117-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46c3585 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-01.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46c4fa6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-01.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-01_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-01_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e8fa71 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-01_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-02.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7f75b37 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-02.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-02_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-02_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..595533c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-02_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-03.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-03.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..95db521 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-03.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-03_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-03_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..712e277 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-03_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-04.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-04.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..469c500 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-04.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-04_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-04_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d62f789 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-04_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-05.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-05.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a822354 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-05.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-05_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-05_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7de78f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-05_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-06.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-06.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d48f94 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-06.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-06_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-06_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..81d25b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-06_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-07.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-07.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b53db7e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-07.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-07_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-07_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46f3ff9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-07_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-08.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-08.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9841bce --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-08.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-08_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-08_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..399644b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-08_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-09.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-09.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5612ff3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-09.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-09_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-09_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3622fbe --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-09_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-10.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-10.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e32850 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-10.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-10_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-10_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f4d925 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-10_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-11.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-11.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..df7d73c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-11.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-11_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-11_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c777b9c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-11_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-12.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-12.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..42ccaf2 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-12.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-12_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-12_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..253993f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-12_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-13.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-13.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1eed99 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-13.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-13_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-13_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f270684 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-13_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-14.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-14.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d27d650 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-14.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-14_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-14_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a7a7969 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-14_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-15.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-15.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..151239d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-15.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-15_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-15_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5650103 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-15_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-16.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-16.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..69711e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-16.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-16_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-16_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..71dc8d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-16_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-17.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-17.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45adce7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-17.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-17_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-17_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..393a895 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-17_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-18.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-18.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b44d6e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-18.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-18_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-18_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ff2785 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-18_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-19.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-19.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ede4719 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-19.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-19_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-19_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19fda15 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-19_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-20.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-20.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cef1937 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-20.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-20_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-20_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..620e5dd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-20_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-21.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-21.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3382295 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-21.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-21_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-21_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c137830 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-21_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-22.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-22.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3ee548d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-22.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-22_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-22_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..516cca7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-22_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-23.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-23.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a76158f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-23.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-23_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-23_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e983449 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-23_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-24.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-24.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5f03e1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-24.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-24_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-24_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..276b1af --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-24_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-25.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-25.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c76c04 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-25.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-25_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-25_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bba7f90 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-25_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-26.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-26.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..837041d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-26.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-26_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-26_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c925e3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-26_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-27.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-27.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9f76bd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-27.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-27_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-27_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c6a1448 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-27_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-28.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-28.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c92ea6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-28.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-28_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-28_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23ded8b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-28_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-29.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-29.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52ede7e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-29.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-29_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-29_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ccbe23 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-29_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-30.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-30.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b3febb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-30.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-30_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-30_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2b84762 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-30_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-31.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-31.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f5eef1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-31.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-31_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-31_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af3629a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-31_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-32.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-32.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..817759b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-32.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-32_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-32_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc52fb3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-32_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-33.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-33.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b262b9a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-33.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-33_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-33_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac071fd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-33_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-34.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-34.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5bc28a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-34.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-34_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-34_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ea8251 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-34_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-35.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-35.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4999e2c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-35.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-35_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-35_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..afcca6e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-35_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-36.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-36.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b0779eb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-36.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-36_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-36_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e83135 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-36_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-37.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-37.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..22de68a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-37.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-37_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-37_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce6456b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-37_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-38.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-38.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a1296de --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-38.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-38_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-38_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb2745f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-38_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-39.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-39.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdd7c58 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-39.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-39_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-39_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6939db --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-39_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-40.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-40.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..982e0b8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-40.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-40_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-40_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d93a5c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-40_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-41.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-41.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a52f6ca --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-41.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-41_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-41_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9724bb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-41_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-42.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-42.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..82a5452 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-42.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-42_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-42_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6cf12f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-42_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-43.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-43.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fd9e81 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-43.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-43_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-43_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1c1bfbb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-43_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-44.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-44.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a2e8a2d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-44.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-44_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-44_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4643fa8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-44_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-45.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-45.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4293b89 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-45.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-45_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-45_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3627438 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-45_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-46.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-46.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c49ae30 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-46.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-46_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-46_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6ee966 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-46_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-47.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-47.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..40dd0f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-47.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-47_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-47_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ef0f2b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-47_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-48.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-48.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d642afe --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-48.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-48_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-48_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6152101 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-48_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-49.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-49.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc29d35 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-49.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-49_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-49_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c77289 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-49_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-50.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-50.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a49f6df --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-50.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-50_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-50_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7825090 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-50_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-51.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-51.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..59ac9af --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-51.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-51_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-51_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e65ac7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-51_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-52.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-52.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f25c4d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-52.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-52_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-52_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f827a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-52_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-53.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-53.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..385c0c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-53.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-53_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-53_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..21cecdb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-53_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-54.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-54.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7965995 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-54.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-54_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-54_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f90089c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-54_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-55.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-55.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68161f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-55.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-55_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-55_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9b3348 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-55_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-56.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-56.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9dcf69 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-56.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-56_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-56_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..94c0670 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-56_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-57.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-57.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..509ee17 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-57.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-57_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-57_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cfac66a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-57_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-58.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-58.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0850d99 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-58.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-58_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-58_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5df8268 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-58_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-59.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-59.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f6595f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-59.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-59_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-59_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2bd6b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-59_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-60.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-60.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8de9c33 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-60.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-60_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-60_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9158775 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-60_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-61.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-61.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..970d440 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-61.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-61_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-61_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..492dc62 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-61_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-62.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-62.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36d9d97 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-62.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-62_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-62_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b0131ac --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-62_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-63.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-63.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ad0e27 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-63.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-63_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-63_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c179bd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-63_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-64.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-64.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d394ee --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-64.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-64_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-64_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..579f9c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-64_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-65.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-65.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f2beaa --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-65.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-65_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-65_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b789b5a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-65_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-66.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-66.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af688b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-66.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill1-66_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill1-66_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d329f99 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill1-66_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-001.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d25e5e8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-001.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-001_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-001_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a3e1bf8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-001_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-002.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-002.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4c7bf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-002.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-002_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-002_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65037c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-002_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-003.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-003.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6769a9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-003.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-003_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-003_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a01cf4e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-003_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-004.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-004.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f99ed14 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-004.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-004_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-004_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d23f75 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-004_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-005.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3135d30 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-005.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-005_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-005_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc455b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-005_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-006.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-006.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c397ba5 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-006.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-006_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-006_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aeeb567 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-006_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-007.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-007.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2350b69 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-007.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-007_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-007_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f9f2ee --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-007_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-008.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-008.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5022890 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-008.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-008_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-008_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e37d8d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-008_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-009.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-009.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9163ce1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-009.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-009_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-009_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1e9915 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-009_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-010.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-010.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fee7bd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-010.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-010_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-010_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b15e813 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-010_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-011.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-011.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f95b192 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-011.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-011_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-011_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c04ae8b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-011_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-012.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-012.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b29925 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-012.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-012_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-012_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7841da1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-012_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-013.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-013.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ccfe17 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-013.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-013_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-013_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9000f83 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-013_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-014.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-014.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f309cbb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-014.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-014_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-014_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e87a00 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-014_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-015.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-015.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3786afb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-015.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-015_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-015_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a121e70 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-015_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-016.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-016.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0926d2b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-016.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-016_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-016_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..086f754 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-016_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-017.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-017.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44e44a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-017.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-017_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-017_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..076cb6f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-017_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-018.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-018.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9448610 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-018.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-018_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-018_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b119d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-018_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-019.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-019.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b58cd16 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-019.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-019_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-019_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c7aba0d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-019_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-020.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-020.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1df5c66 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-020.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-020_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-020_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9726b3f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-020_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-021.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-021.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..47622fb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-021.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-021_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-021_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..023cf38 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-021_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-022.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-022.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c058b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-022.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-022_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-022_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eba0e22 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-022_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-023.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-023.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..39e4e84 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-023.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-023_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-023_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..147c7ca --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-023_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-024.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-024.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9cbed61 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-024.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-024_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-024_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..484fb35 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-024_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-025.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-025.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e63c40a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-025.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-025_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-025_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a272850 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-025_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-026.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-026.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac441f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-026.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-026_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-026_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf8a5b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-026_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-027.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-027.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d159ab --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-027.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-027_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-027_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..971f392 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-027_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-028.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-028.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b636c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-028.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-028_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-028_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c56829c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-028_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-029.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-029.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0ec7a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-029.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-029_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-029_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aee28e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-029_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-030.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-030.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb64f36 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-030.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-030_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-030_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d908d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-030_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-031.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-031.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3fe216a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-031.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-031_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-031_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..293b9fa --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-031_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-032.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-032.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1475aae --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-032.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-032_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-032_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c375f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-032_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-033.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-033.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6246dc0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-033.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-033_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-033_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..25b2b5c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-033_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-034.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-034.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..888579f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-034.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-034_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-034_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd2cb6f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-034_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-035.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-035.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e4172d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-035.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-035_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-035_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..39ee441 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-035_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-036.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-036.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2d1cf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-036.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-036_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-036_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad0fb53 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-036_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-037.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-037.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b41359 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-037.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-037_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-037_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..98dbafe --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-037_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-038.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-038.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4e02e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-038.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-038_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-038_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fe4aa7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-038_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-039.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-039.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af1d575 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-039.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-039_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-039_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84754ce --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-039_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-040.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-040.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..340ddaa --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-040.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-040_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-040_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..09a3a47 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-040_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-041.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-041.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4d3a6ff --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-041.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-041_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-041_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b92bf3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-041_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-042.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-042.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a25a7d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-042.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-042_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-042_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc7aae2 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-042_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-043.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-043.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e8df14 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-043.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-043_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-043_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..da4f7d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-043_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-044.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-044.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3b7a4b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-044.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-044_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-044_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db4f91e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-044_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-045.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-045.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..18217d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-045.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-045_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-045_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..15ab67c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-045_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-046.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-046.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..58a8883 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-046.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-046_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-046_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..664dc43 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-046_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-047.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-047.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28ba860 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-047.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-047_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-047_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..496c3e9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-047_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-048.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-048.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b1d7d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-048.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-048_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-048_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..20ef432 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-048_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-049.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-049.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6591a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-049.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-049_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-049_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11dd703 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-049_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-050.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-050.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6813da9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-050.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-050_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-050_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fea879 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-050_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-051.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-051.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae8df97 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-051.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-051_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-051_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cda0291 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-051_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-052.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-052.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..da3d8a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-052.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-052_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-052_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9eff3e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-052_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-053.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-053.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b9effb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-053.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-053_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-053_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9574860 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-053_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-054.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-054.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..478f807 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-054.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-054_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-054_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..10e6a67 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-054_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-055.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-055.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e9a71d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-055.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-055_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-055_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84f542d --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-055_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-056.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-056.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f847f6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-056.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-056_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-056_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ef926e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-056_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-057.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-057.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd484c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-057.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-057_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-057_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..efa842b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-057_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-058.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-058.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..40ba1ac --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-058.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-058_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-058_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..50f3e99 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-058_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-059.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-059.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f45d2d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-059.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-059_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-059_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34251f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-059_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-060.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-060.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed34e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-060.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-060_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-060_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..63972a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-060_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-061.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-061.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..abbce64 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-061.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-061_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-061_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b36dc39 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-061_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-062.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-062.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c327399 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-062.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-062_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-062_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..477ad5b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-062_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-063.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-063.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a505fc3 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-063.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-063_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-063_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb51043 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-063_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-064.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-064.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dee9583 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-064.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-064_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-064_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e968ff --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-064_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-065.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-065.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f97a21a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-065.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-065_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-065_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d45889c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-065_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-066.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-066.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6fad385 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-066.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-066_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-066_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..df927ab --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-066_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-067.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-067.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a931df9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-067.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-067_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-067_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..961e9c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-067_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-068.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-068.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c75b608 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-068.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-068_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-068_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9725128 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-068_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-069.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-069.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e31e517 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-069.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-069_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-069_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9a05af --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-069_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-070.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-070.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e7f8637 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-070.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-070_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-070_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c964d9a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-070_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-071.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-071.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1354de0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-071.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-071_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-071_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..576499b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-071_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-072.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-072.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..13f681c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-072.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-072_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-072_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eec4acc --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-072_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-073.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-073.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0efdf40 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-073.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-073_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-073_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eec9fc6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-073_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-074.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-074.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23290cf --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-074.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-074_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-074_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55b0a15 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-074_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-075.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-075.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6ed071 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-075.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-075_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-075_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c51bd45 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-075_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-076.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-076.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e225300 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-076.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-076_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-076_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6542d15 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-076_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-077.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-077.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c72afc --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-077.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-077_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-077_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8af20b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-077_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-078.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-078.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..75aa3af --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-078.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-078_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-078_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..adaf8da --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-078_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-079.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-079.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa6502b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-079.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-079_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-079_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..520f2fc --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-079_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-080.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-080.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4601e19 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-080.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-080_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-080_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..23a4017 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-080_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-081.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-081.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29b37f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-081.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-081_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-081_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd3727a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-081_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-082.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-082.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..85ce305 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-082.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-082_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-082_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28ff7e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-082_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-083.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-083.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c3ef74f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-083.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-083_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-083_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..444b933 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-083_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-084.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-084.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..748782b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-084.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-084_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-084_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dae9749 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-084_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-085.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-085.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0596c1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-085.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-085_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-085_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c72fdc --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-085_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-086.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-086.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..640c3ce --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-086.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-086_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-086_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b1e36 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-086_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-087.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-087.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbb472f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-087.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-087_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-087_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28113e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-087_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-088.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-088.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db1a1cf --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-088.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-088_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-088_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0ab124 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-088_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-089.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-089.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6ea919 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-089.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-089_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-089_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0d5a17 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-089_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-090.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-090.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0f0591 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-090.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-090_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-090_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..965d196 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-090_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-091.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-091.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d88e302 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-091.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-091_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-091_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bcb11b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-091_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-092.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-092.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..861deca --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-092.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-092_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-092_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b933bd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-092_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-093.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-093.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eb38af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-093.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-093_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-093_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..713d019 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-093_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-094.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-094.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..06964c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-094.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-094_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-094_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9333d14 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-094_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-095.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-095.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e2f584 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-095.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-095_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-095_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29c6a19 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-095_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-096.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-096.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3039758 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-096.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-096_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-096_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a50a25 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-096_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-097.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-097.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..697706c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-097.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-097_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-097_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45f2e4a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-097_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-098.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-098.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e597f6 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-098.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-098_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-098_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..920381b --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-098_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-099.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-099.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e75c4c --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-099.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-099_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-099_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11324d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-099_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-100.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-100.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd1dc5a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-100.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-100_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-100_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..17a9cbf --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-100_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-101.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-101.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..24779a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-101.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-101_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-101_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4030f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-101_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-102.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-102.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eeb6b8e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-102.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-102_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-102_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f050dd --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-102_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-103.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-103.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e02b68 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-103.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-103_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-103_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5132c01 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-103_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-104.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-104.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0c51f48 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-104.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-104_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-104_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..629b0a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-104_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-105.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-105.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8dceabb --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-105.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-105_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-105_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b71e89 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-105_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-106.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-106.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..da688cf --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-106.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-106_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-106_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fbcac9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-106_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-107.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-107.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f18eb60 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-107.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-107_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-107_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db4dfa5 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-107_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-108.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-108.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c380dbf --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-108.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-108_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-108_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0190d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-108_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-109.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-109.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..33e1f5f --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-109.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-109_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-109_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8bd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-109_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-110.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-110.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6fcfb66 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-110.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-110_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-110_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..613ce8e --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-110_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-111.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-111.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..60b3c87 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-111.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-111_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-111_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3698fde --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-111_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-112.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-112.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45177c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-112.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-112_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-112_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..32ab4dc --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-112_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-113.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-113.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..db251b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-113.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-113_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-113_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfcc162 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-113_th.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-114.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-114.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..54ebb21 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-114.jpg diff --git a/22117-h/images/ill2-114_th.jpg b/22117-h/images/ill2-114_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..72cce51 --- /dev/null +++ b/22117-h/images/ill2-114_th.jpg |
