initial commit of ebook 23031HEADmain

224 files changed, 20564 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/23031-8.txt b/23031-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ad77f22
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6373 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in
+Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in Many Lands
+
+Author: Mary Seacole
+
+Commentator: W. H. Russell
+
+Editor: W. J. S.
+
+Release Date: October 14, 2007 [EBook #23031]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                WONDERFUL
+         ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE
+              IN MANY LANDS
+
+
+             EDITED BY W. J. S.
+
+
+        WITH AN INTRODUCTORY PREFACE
+
+                   BY
+
+            W. H. RUSSELL, ESQ.,
+
+  THE "TIMES" CORRESPONDENT IN THE CRIMEA.
+
+
+                   LONDON:
+       JAMES BLACKWOOD, PATERNOSTER ROW.
+                    1857.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MRS. SEACOLE'S HOTEL IN THE CRIMEA.]
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+THOMAS HARRILD, PRINTER, 11, SALISBURY SQUARE,
+FLEET STREET.
+
+
+
+
+      DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION,
+
+                TO
+
+  MAJOR-GENERAL LORD ROKEBY, K.C.B.,
+
+         BY HIS LORDSHIP'S
+
+  HUMBLE AND MOST GRATEFUL SERVANT,
+
+                      MARY SEACOLE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE READER.
+
+
+I should have thought that no preface would have been required to
+introduce Mrs. Seacole to the British public, or to recommend a book
+which must, from the circumstances in which the subject of it was
+placed, be unique in literature.
+
+If singleness of heart, true charity, and Christian works; if trials
+and sufferings, dangers and perils, encountered boldly by a helpless
+woman on her errand of mercy in the camp and in the battle-field, can
+excite sympathy or move curiosity, Mary Seacole will have many friends
+and many readers.
+
+She is no Anna Comnena, who presents us with a verbose history, but a
+plain truth-speaking woman, who has lived an adventurous life amid
+scenes which have never yet found a historian among the actors on the
+stage where they passed.
+
+I have witnessed her devotion and her courage; I have already borne
+testimony to her services to all who needed them. She is the first who
+has redeemed the name of "sutler" from the suspicion of worthlessness,
+mercenary baseness, and plunder; and I trust that England will not
+forget one who nursed her sick, who sought out her wounded to aid and
+succour them, and who performed the last offices for some of her
+illustrious dead.
+
+    W. H. RUSSELL.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+ My Birth and Parentage--Early Tastes and Travels--Marriage,
+ and Widowhood                                                   1
+
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+ Struggles for Life--The Cholera in Jamaica--I leave Kingston
+ for the Isthmus of Panama--Chagres, Navy Bay, and Gatun--Life
+ in Panama--Up the River Chagres to Gorgona and Cruces           6
+
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+ My Reception at the Independent Hotel--A Cruces Table
+ d'Hôte--Life in Cruces--Amusements of the Crowds--A Novel
+ Four-post Bed                                                  17
+
+
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+ An Unwelcome Visitor in Cruces--The Cholera--Success of the
+ Yellow Doctress--Fearful Scene at the Mule-owner's--The
+ Burying Parties--The Cholera attacks me                        23
+
+
+ CHAPTER V.
+
+ American Sympathy--I take an Hotel in Cruces--My
+ Customers--Lola Montes--Miss Hayes and the Bishop--Gambling
+ in Cruces--Quarrels amongst the Travellers--New Granadan
+ Military--The Thieves of Cruces--A Narrow Escape               34
+
+
+ CHAPTER VI.
+
+ Migration to Gorgona--Farewell Dinners and Speeches--A
+ Building Speculation--Life in Gorgona--Sympathy with
+ American Slaves--Dr. Casey in Trouble--Floods and
+ Fires--Yankee Independence and Freedom                         46
+
+
+ CHAPTER VII.
+
+ The Yellow Fever in Jamaica--My Experience of Death-bed
+ Scenes--I leave again for Navy Bay, and open a Store
+ there--I am attacked with the Gold Fever, and start for
+ Escribanos--Life in the Interior of the Republic of New
+ Granada--A Revolutionary Conspiracy on a small scale--The
+ Dinner Delicacies of Escribanos--Journey up the Palmilla
+ River--A Few Words on the Present Aspect of Affairs on the
+ Isthmus of Panama                                              59
+
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ I long to join the British Army before Sebastopol--My
+ Wanderings about London for that purpose--How I
+ failed--Establishment of the Firm of "Day and Martin"--I
+ Embark for Turkey                                              73
+
+
+ CHAPTER IX.
+
+ Voyage to Constantinople--Malta--Gibraltar--Constantinople,
+ and what I thought of it--Visit to Scutari Hospital--Miss
+ Nightingale                                                    82
+
+
+ CHAPTER X.
+
+ "Jew Johnny"--I Start for Balaclava--Kindness of my old
+ Friends--On Board the "Medora"--My Life on Shore--The
+ Sick Wharf                                                     92
+
+
+ CHAPTER XI.
+
+ Alarms in the Harbour--Getting the Stores on Shore--Robbery
+ by Night and Day--The Predatory Tribes of Balaclava--Activity
+ of the Authorities--We obtain leave to erect our
+ Store, and fix upon Spring Hill as its Site--The Turkish
+ Pacha--The Flood--Our Carpenters--I become an English
+ Schoolmistress Abroad                                         102
+
+
+ CHAPTER XII.
+
+ The British Hotel--Domestic Difficulties--Our Enemies--The
+ Russian Rats--Adventures in Search of a Cat--Light-fingered
+ Zouaves--Crimean Thieves--Powdering a Horse                   113
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ My Work in the Crimea                                         124
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ My Customers at the British Hotel                             135
+
+
+ CHAPTER XV.
+
+ My First Glimpse of War--Advance of my Turkish Friends on
+ Kamara--Visitors to the Camp--Miss Nightingale--Mons.
+ Soyer and the Cholera--Summer in the Crimea--"Thirsty
+ Souls"--Death busy in the Trenches                            146
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ Under Fire on the fatal 18th of June--Before the
+ Redan--At the Cemetery--The Armistice--Deaths at
+ Head-quarters--Depression in the Camp--Plenty in the
+ Crimea--The Plague of Flies--Under Fire at the Battle
+ of the Tchernaya--Work on the Field--My Patients              154
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVII.
+
+ Inside Sebastopol--The Last Bombardment of Sebastopol--On
+ Cathcart's Hill--Rumours in the Camp--The Attack on the
+ Malakhoff--The Old Work again--A Sunday Excursion--Inside
+ "Our" City--I am taken for a Spy, and thereat lose my
+ Temper--I Visit the Redan, etc.--My Share of the Plunder      167
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ Holiday in the Camp--A New Enemy, Time--Amusements in
+ the Crimea--My share in them--Dinner at Spring Hill--At
+ the Races--Christmas Day in the British Hotel--New
+ Year's Day in the Hospital                                    177
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIX.
+
+ New Year in the Crimea--Good News--The Armistice--Barter
+ with the Russians--War and Peace--Tidings of Peace--Excursions
+ into the Interior of the Crimea--To Simpheropol,
+ Baktchiserai, etc.--The Troops begin to leave the
+ Crimea--Friends' Farewells--The Cemeteries--We remove
+ from Spring Hill to Balaclava--Alarming Sacrifice of our
+ Stock--A last Glimpse of Sebastopol--Home!                    188
+
+
+ Conclusion                                                    197
+
+
+
+
+ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE
+IN MANY LANDS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    MY BIRTH AND PARENTAGE--EARLY TASTES AND
+    TRAVELS--MARRIAGE, AND WIDOWHOOD.
+
+
+I was born in the town of Kingston, in the island of Jamaica, some
+time in the present century. As a female, and a widow, I may be well
+excused giving the precise date of this important event. But I do not
+mind confessing that the century and myself were both young together,
+and that we have grown side by side into age and consequence. I am a
+Creole, and have good Scotch blood coursing in my veins. My father was
+a soldier, of an old Scotch family; and to him I often trace my
+affection for a camp-life, and my sympathy with what I have heard my
+friends call "the pomp, pride, and circumstance of glorious war." Many
+people have also traced to my Scotch blood that energy and activity
+which are not always found in the Creole race, and which have carried
+me to so many varied scenes: and perhaps they are right. I have often
+heard the term "lazy Creole" applied to my country people; but I am
+sure I do not know what it is to be indolent. All my life long I have
+followed the impulse which led me to be up and doing; and so far from
+resting idle anywhere, I have never wanted inclination to rove, nor
+will powerful enough to find a way to carry out my wishes. That these
+qualities have led me into many countries, and brought me into some
+strange and amusing adventures, the reader, if he or she has the
+patience to get through this book, will see. Some people, indeed, have
+called me quite a female Ulysses. I believe that they intended it as a
+compliment; but from my experience of the Greeks, I do not consider it
+a very flattering one.
+
+It is not my intention to dwell at any length upon the recollections
+of my childhood. My mother kept a boarding-house in Kingston, and was,
+like very many of the Creole women, an admirable doctress; in high
+repute with the officers of both services, and their wives, who were
+from time to time stationed at Kingston. It was very natural that I
+should inherit her tastes; and so I had from early youth a yearning
+for medical knowledge and practice which has never deserted me. When I
+was a very young child I was taken by an old lady, who brought me up
+in her household among her own grandchildren, and who could scarcely
+have shown me more kindness had I been one of them; indeed, I was so
+spoiled by my kind patroness that, but for being frequently with my
+mother, I might very likely have grown up idle and useless. But I saw
+so much of her, and of her patients, that the ambition to become a
+doctress early took firm root in my mind; and I was very young when I
+began to make use of the little knowledge I had acquired from watching
+my mother, upon a great sufferer--my doll. I have noticed always what
+actors children are. If you leave one alone in a room, how soon it
+clears a little stage; and, making an audience out of a few chairs and
+stools, proceeds to act its childish griefs and blandishments upon its
+doll. So I also made good use of my dumb companion and confidante; and
+whatever disease was most prevalent in Kingston, be sure my poor doll
+soon contracted it. I have had many medical triumphs in later days,
+and saved some valuable lives; but I really think that few have given
+me more real gratification than the rewarding glow of health which my
+fancy used to picture stealing over my patient's waxen face after long
+and precarious illness.
+
+Before long it was very natural that I should seek to extend my
+practice; and so I found other patients in the dogs and cats around
+me. Many luckless brutes were made to simulate diseases which were
+raging among their owners, and had forced down their reluctant throats
+the remedies which I deemed most likely to suit their supposed
+complaints. And after a time I rose still higher in my ambition; and
+despairing of finding another human patient, I proceeded to try my
+simples and essences upon--myself.
+
+When I was about twelve years old I was more frequently at my mother's
+house, and used to assist her in her duties; very often sharing with
+her the task of attending upon invalid officers or their wives, who
+came to her house from the adjacent camp at Up-Park, or the military
+station at Newcastle.
+
+As I grew into womanhood, I began to indulge that longing to travel
+which will never leave me while I have health and vigour. I was never
+weary of tracing upon an old map the route to England; and never
+followed with my gaze the stately ships homeward bound without longing
+to be in them, and see the blue hills of Jamaica fade into the
+distance. At that time it seemed most improbable that these girlish
+wishes should be gratified; but circumstances, which I need not
+explain, enabled me to accompany some relatives to England while I was
+yet a very young woman.
+
+I shall never forget my first impressions of London. Of course, I am
+not going to bore the reader with them; but they are as vivid now as
+though the year 18-- (I had very nearly let my age slip then) had not
+been long ago numbered with the past. Strangely enough, some of the
+most vivid of my recollections are the efforts of the London
+street-boys to poke fun at my and my companion's complexion. I am only
+a little brown--a few shades duskier than the brunettes whom you all
+admire so much; but my companion was very dark, and a fair (if I can
+apply the term to her) subject for their rude wit. She was
+hot-tempered, poor thing! and as there were no policemen to awe the
+boys and turn our servants' heads in those days, our progress through
+the London streets was sometimes a rather chequered one.
+
+I remained in England, upon the occasion of my first visit, about a
+year; and then returned to Kingston. Before long I again started for
+London, bringing with me this time a large stock of West Indian
+preserves and pickles for sale. After remaining two years here, I
+again started home; and on the way my life and adventures were very
+nearly brought to a premature conclusion. Christmas-day had been kept
+very merrily on board our ship the "Velusia;" and on the following day
+a fire broke out in the hold. I dare say it would have resisted all
+the crew's efforts to put it out, had not another ship appeared in
+sight; upon which the fire quietly allowed itself to be extinguished.
+Although considerably alarmed, I did not lose my senses; but during
+the time when the contest between fire and water was doubtful, I
+entered into an amicable arrangement with the ship's cook, whereby, in
+consideration of two pounds--which I was not, however, to pay until
+the crisis arrived--he agreed to lash me on to a large hen-coop.
+
+Before I had been long in Jamaica I started upon other trips, many of
+them undertaken with a view to gain. Thus I spent some time in New
+Providence, bringing home with me a large collection of handsome
+shells and rare shell-work, which created quite a sensation in
+Kingston, and had a rapid sale; I visited also Hayti and Cuba. But I
+hasten onward in my narrative.
+
+Returned to Kingston, I nursed my old indulgent patroness in her last
+long illness. After she died, in my arms, I went to my mother's house,
+where I stayed, making myself useful in a variety of ways, and
+learning a great deal of Creole medicinal art, until I couldn't find
+courage to say "no" to a certain arrangement timidly proposed by Mr.
+Seacole, but married him, and took him down to Black River, where we
+established a store. Poor man! he was very delicate; and before I
+undertook the charge of him, several doctors had expressed most
+unfavourable opinions of his health. I kept him alive by kind nursing
+and attention as long as I could; but at last he grew so ill that we
+left Black River, and returned to my mother's house at Kingston.
+Within a month of our arrival there he died. This was my first great
+trouble, and I felt it bitterly. For days I never stirred--lost to all
+that passed around me in a dull stupor of despair. If you had told me
+that the time would soon come when I should remember this sorrow
+calmly, I should not have believed it possible: and yet it was so. I
+do not think that we hot-blooded Creoles sorrow less for showing it so
+impetuously; but I do think that the sharp edge of our grief wears
+down sooner than theirs who preserve an outward demeanour of calmness,
+and nurse their woe secretly in their hearts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    STRUGGLES FOR LIFE--THE CHOLERA IN JAMAICA--I LEAVE
+    KINGSTON FOR THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA--CHAGRES, NAVY BAY,
+    AND GATUN--LIFE IN PANAMA--UP THE RIVER CHAGRES TO
+    GORGONA AND CRUCES.
+
+
+I had one other great grief to master--the loss of my mother, and then
+I was left alone to battle with the world as best I might. The
+struggles which it cost me to succeed in life were sometimes very
+trying; nor have they ended yet. But I have always turned a bold front
+to fortune, and taken, and shall continue to take, as my brave friends
+in the army and navy have shown me how, "my hurts before." Although it
+was no easy thing for a widow to make ends meet, I never allowed
+myself to know what repining or depression was, and so succeeded in
+gaining not only my daily bread, but many comforts besides from the
+beginning. Indeed, my experience of the world--it is not finished yet,
+but I do not think it will give me reason to change my opinion--leads
+me to the conclusion that it is by no means the hard bad world which
+some selfish people would have us believe it. It may be as my editor
+says--
+
+    "That gently comes the world to those
+    That are cast in gentle mould;"
+
+hinting at the same time, politely, that the rule may apply to me
+personally. And perhaps he is right, for although I was always a
+hearty, strong woman--plain-spoken people might say stout--I think my
+heart is soft enough.
+
+How slowly and gradually I succeeded in life, need not be told at
+length. My fortunes underwent the variations which befall all.
+Sometimes I was rich one day, and poor the next. I never thought too
+exclusively of money, believing rather that we were born to be happy,
+and that the surest way to be wretched is to prize it overmuch. Had I
+done so, I should have mourned over many a promising speculation
+proving a failure, over many a pan of preserves or guava jelly burnt
+in the making; and perhaps lost my mind when the great fire of 1843,
+which devastated Kingston, burnt down my poor home. As it was, I very
+nearly lost my life, for I would not leave my house until every chance
+of saving it had gone, and it was wrapped in flames. But, of course, I
+set to work again in a humbler way, and rebuilt my house by degrees,
+and restocked it, succeeding better than before; for I had gained a
+reputation as a skilful nurse and doctress, and my house was always
+full of invalid officers and their wives from Newcastle, or the
+adjacent Up-Park Camp. Sometimes I had a naval or military surgeon
+under my roof, from whom I never failed to glean instruction, given,
+when they learned my love for their profession, with a readiness and
+kindness I am never likely to forget. Many of these kind friends are
+alive now. I met with some when my adventures had carried me to the
+battle-fields of the Crimea; and to those whose eyes may rest upon
+these pages I again offer my acknowledgments for their past kindness,
+which helped me to be useful to my kind in many lands.
+
+And here I may take the opportunity of explaining that it was from a
+confidence in my own powers, and not at all from necessity, that I
+remained an unprotected female. Indeed, I do not mind confessing to my
+reader, in a friendly confidential way, that one of the hardest
+struggles of my life in Kingston was to resist the pressing candidates
+for the late Mr. Seacole's shoes.
+
+Officers of high rank sometimes took up their abode in my house.
+Others of inferior rank were familiar with me, long before their
+bravery, and, alas! too often death, in the Crimea, made them world
+famous. There were few officers of the 97th to whom Mother Seacole was
+not well known, before she joined them in front of Sebastopol; and
+among the best known was good-hearted, loveable, noble H---- V----,
+whose death shocked me so terribly, and with whose useful heroic life
+the English public have become so familiar. I can hear the ring of his
+boyish laughter even now.
+
+In the year 1850, the cholera swept over the island of Jamaica with
+terrible force. Our idea--perhaps an unfounded one--was, that a
+steamer from New Orleans was the means of introducing it into the
+island. Anyhow, they sent some clothes on shore to be washed, and poor
+Dolly Johnson, the washerwoman, whom we all knew, sickened and died of
+the terrible disease. While the cholera raged, I had but too many
+opportunities of watching its nature, and from a Dr. B----, who was
+then lodging in my house, received many hints as to its treatment
+which I afterwards found invaluable.
+
+Early in the same year my brother had left Kingston for the Isthmus of
+Panama, then the great high-road to and from golden California, where
+he had established a considerable store and hotel. Ever since he had
+done so, I had found some difficulty in checking my reviving
+disposition to roam, and at last persuading myself that I might be of
+use to him (he was far from strong), I resigned my house into the
+hands of a cousin, and made arrangements to journey to Chagres. Having
+come to this conclusion, I allowed no grass to grow beneath my feet,
+but set to work busily, for I was not going to him empty-handed. My
+house was full for weeks, of tailors, making up rough coats, trousers,
+etc., and sempstresses cutting out and making shirts. In addition to
+these, my kitchen was filled with busy people, manufacturing
+preserves, guava jelly, and other delicacies, while a considerable sum
+was invested in the purchase of preserved meats, vegetables, and eggs.
+It will be as well, perhaps, if I explain, in as few words as
+possible, the then condition of the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+All my readers must know--a glance at the map will show it to those
+who do not--that between North America and the envied shores of
+California stretches a little neck of land, insignificant-looking
+enough on the map, dividing the Atlantic from the Pacific. By crossing
+this, the travellers from America avoided a long, weary, and dangerous
+sea voyage round Cape Horn, or an almost impossible journey by land.
+
+But that journey across the Isthmus, insignificant in distance as it
+was, was by no means an easy one. It seemed as if nature had
+determined to throw every conceivable obstacle in the way of those who
+should seek to join the two great oceans of the world. I have read and
+heard many accounts of old endeavours to effect this important and
+gigantic work, and how miserably they failed. It was reserved for the
+men of our age to accomplish what so many had died in attempting, and
+iron and steam, twin giants, subdued to man's will, have put a girdle
+over rocks and rivers, so that travellers can glide as smoothly, if
+not as inexpensively, over the once terrible Isthmus of Darien, as
+they can from London to Brighton. Not yet, however, does civilization,
+rule at Panama. The weak sway of the New Granada Republic, despised by
+lawless men, and respected by none, is powerless to control the refuse
+of every nation which meet together upon its soil. Whenever they feel
+inclined now they overpower the law easily; but seven years ago, when
+I visited the Isthmus of Panama, things were much worse, and a licence
+existed, compared to which the present lawless state of affairs is
+enviable.
+
+When, after passing Chagres, an old-world, tumble-down town, for about
+seven miles, the steamer reached Navy Bay, I thought I had never seen
+a more luckless, dreary spot. Three sides of the place were a mere
+swamp, and the town itself stood upon a sand-reef, the houses being
+built upon piles, which some one told me rotted regularly every three
+years. The railway, which now connects the bay with Panama, was then
+building, and ran, as far as we could see, on piles, connected with
+the town by a wooden jetty. It seemed as capital a nursery for ague
+and fever as Death could hit upon anywhere, and those on board the
+steamer who knew it confirmed my opinion. As we arrived a steady
+down-pour of rain was falling from an inky sky; the white men who met
+us on the wharf appeared ghostly and wraith-like, and the very negroes
+seemed pale and wan. The news which met us did not tempt me to lose
+any time in getting up the country to my brother. According to all
+accounts, fever and ague, with some minor diseases, especially dropsy,
+were having it all their own way at Navy Bay, and, although I only
+stayed one night in the place, my medicine chest was called into
+requisition. But the sufferers wanted remedies which I could not give
+them--warmth, nourishment, and fresh air. Beneath leaky tents, damp
+huts, and even under broken railway waggons, I saw men dying from
+sheer exhaustion. Indeed, I was very glad when, with the morning, the
+crowd, as the Yankees called the bands of pilgrims to and from
+California, made ready to ascend to Panama.
+
+The first stage of our journey was by railway to Gatun, about twelve
+miles distant. For the greater portion of that distance the lines ran
+on piles, over as unhealthy and wretched a country as the eye could
+well grow weary of; but, at last, the country improved, and you caught
+glimpses of distant hills and English-like scenery. Every mile of that
+fatal railway cost the world thousands of lives. I was assured that
+its site was marked thickly by graves, and that so great was the
+mortality among the labourers that three times the survivors struck in
+a body, and their places had to be supplied by fresh victims from
+America, tempted by unheard-of rates of wages. It is a gigantic
+undertaking, and shows what the energy and enterprise of man can
+accomplish. Everything requisite for its construction, even the
+timber, had to be prepared in, and brought from, America.
+
+The railway then ran no further than Gatun, and here we were to take
+water and ascend the River Chagres to Gorgona, the next stage on the
+way to Cruces, where my brother was. The cars landed us at the bottom
+of a somewhat steep cutting through a reddish clay, and deposited me
+and my suite, consisting of a black servant, named "Mac," and a little
+girl, in safety in the midst of my many packages, not altogether
+satisfied with my prospects; for the rain was falling heavily and
+steadily, and the Gatun porters were possessing themselves of my
+luggage with that same avidity which distinguishes their brethren on
+the pier of Calais or the quays of Pera. There are two species of
+individuals whom I have found alike wherever my travels have carried
+me--the reader can guess their professions--porters and lawyers.
+
+It was as much as I could do to gather my packages together, sit in
+the midst with a determined look to awe the hungry crowd around me,
+and send "Mac" up the steep slippery bank to report progress. After a
+little while he returned to say that the river-side was not far off,
+where boats could be hired for the upward journey. The word given, the
+porters threw themselves upon my packages; a pitched battle ensued,
+out of which issued the strongest Spanish Indians, with their hardly
+earned prizes, and we commenced the ascent of the clayey bank. Now,
+although the surveyors of the Darien highways had considerately cut
+steps up the steep incline, they had become worse than useless, so I
+floundered about terribly, more than once losing my footing
+altogether. And as with that due regard to personal appearance, which
+I have always deemed a duty as well as a pleasure to study, I had,
+before leaving Navy Bay, attired myself in a delicate light blue
+dress, a white bonnet prettily trimmed, and an equally chaste shawl,
+the reader can sympathise with my distress. However, I gained the
+summit, and after an arduous descent, of a few minutes duration,
+reached the river-side; in a most piteous plight, however, for my
+pretty dress, from its contact with the Gatun clay, looked as red as
+if, in the pursuit of science, I had passed it through a strong
+solution of muriatic acid.
+
+By the water-side I found my travelling companions arguing angrily
+with the shrewd boatmen, and bating down their fares. Upon collecting
+my luggage, I found, as I had expected, that the porters had not
+neglected the glorious opportunity of robbing a woman, and that
+several articles were missing. Complaints, I knew, would not avail me,
+and stronger measures seemed hazardous and barely advisable in a
+lawless out-of-the-way spot, where
+
+              "The simple plan,
+    That they should take who have the power,
+    And they should keep who can,"
+
+seemed universally practised, and would very likely have been defended
+by its practitioners upon principle.
+
+It was not so easy to hire a boat as I had been led to expect. The
+large crowd had made the boatmen somewhat exorbitant in their demands,
+and there were several reasons why I should engage one for my own
+exclusive use, instead of sharing one with some of my travelling
+companions. In the first place, my luggage was somewhat bulky; and, in
+the second place, my experience of travel had not failed to teach me
+that Americans (even from the Northern States) are always
+uncomfortable in the company of coloured people, and very often show
+this feeling in stronger ways than by sour looks and rude words. I
+think, if I have a little prejudice against our cousins across the
+Atlantic--and I do confess to a little--it is not unreasonable. I have
+a few shades of deeper brown upon my skin which shows me related--and
+I am proud of the relationship--to those poor mortals whom you once
+held enslaved, and whose bodies America still owns. And having this
+bond, and knowing what slavery is; having seen with my eyes and heard
+with my ears proof positive enough of its horrors--let others affect
+to doubt them if they will--is it surprising that I should be somewhat
+impatient of the airs of superiority which many Americans have
+endeavoured to assume over me? Mind, I am not speaking of all. I have
+met with some delightful exceptions.
+
+At length I succeeded in hiring a boat for the modest consideration of
+ten pounds, to carry me and my fortunes to Cruces. My boat was far
+from uncomfortable. Large and flat-bottomed, with an awning, dirty it
+must be confessed, beneath which swung a hammock, of which I took
+immediate possession. By the way, the Central Americans should adopt
+the hammock as their national badge; but for sheer necessity they
+would never leave it. The master of the boat, the padrone, was a fine
+tall negro, his crew were four common enough specimens of humanity,
+with a marked disregard of the prejudices of society with respect to
+clothing. A dirty handkerchief rolled over the head, and a wisp of
+something, which might have been linen, bound round the loins, formed
+their attire. Perhaps, however, the thick coating of dirt which
+covered them kept them warmer than more civilized clothing, besides
+being indisputably more economical.
+
+The boat was generally propelled by paddles, but when the river was
+shallow, poles were used to punt us along, as on English rivers; the
+black padrone, whose superior position was indicated by the use of
+decent clothing, standing at the helm, gesticulating wildly, and
+swearing Spanish oaths with a vehemence that would have put Corporal
+Trim's comrades in Flanders to the blush. Very much shocked, of
+course, but finding it perfectly useless to remonstrate with him, I
+swung myself in my hammock and leisurely watched the river scene.
+
+The river Chagres lolled with considerable force, now between low
+marshy shores, now narrowing, between steep, thickly wooded banks. It
+was liable, as are all rivers in hilly districts, to sudden and heavy
+floods; and although the padrone, on leaving Gatun, had pledged his
+soul to land me at Cruces that night, I had not been long afloat
+before I saw that he would forfeit his worthless pledge; for the wind
+rose to a gale, ruffling the river here and there into a little sea;
+the rain came down in torrents, while the river rose rapidly, bearing
+down on its swollen stream trunks of trees, and similar waifs and
+strays, which it tossed about like a giant in sport, threatening to
+snag us with its playthings every moment. And when we came to a
+sheltered reach, and found that the little fleet of boats which had
+preceded us had laid to there, I came to the conclusion that, stiff,
+tired, and hungry, I should have to pass a night upon the river
+Chagres. All I could get to eat was some guavas, which grew wild upon
+the banks, and then I watched the padrone curl his long body up among
+my luggage, and listened to the crew, who had rolled together at the
+bottom of the boat, snore as peacefully as if they slept between fair
+linen sheets, in the purest of calico night-gear, and the most
+unexceptionable of nightcaps, until somehow I fell into a troubled,
+dreamy sleep.
+
+At daybreak we were enabled to pursue our journey, and in a short time
+reached Gorgona. I was glad enough to go on shore, as you may imagine.
+Gorgona was a mere temporary town of bamboo and wood houses, hastily
+erected to serve as a station for the crowd. In the present rainy
+season, when the river was navigable up to Cruces, the chief part of
+the population migrated thither, so that Gorgona was almost deserted,
+and looked indescribably damp, dirty, and dull. With some difficulty I
+found a bakery and a butcher's shop. The meat was not very tempting,
+for the Gorgona butchers did not trouble themselves about joints, but
+cut the flesh into strips about three inches wide, and of various
+lengths. These were hung upon rails, so that you bought your meat by
+the yard, and were spared any difficulty in the choice of joint. I
+cannot say that I was favourably impressed with this novel and simple
+way of avoiding trouble, but I was far too hungry to be particular,
+and buying a strip for a quarter of a real, carried it off to Mac to
+cook.
+
+Late that afternoon, the padrone and his crew landed me, tired,
+wretched, and out of temper, upon the miserable wharf of Cruces.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    MY RECEPTION AT THE INDEPENDENT HOTEL--A CRUCES TABLE
+    D'HÔTE--LIFE IN CRUCES--AMUSEMENTS OF THE CROWDS--A
+    NOVEL FOUR-POST BED.
+
+
+The sympathising reader, who very likely has been laughing heartily at
+my late troubles, can fancy that I was looking forward with no little
+pleasurable anticipation to reaching my brother's cheerful home at
+Cruces. After the long night spent on board the wretched boat in my
+stiff, clayey dress, and the hours of fasting, the warmth and good
+cheer of the Independent Hotel could not fail to be acceptable. My
+brother met me on the rickety wharf with the kindest welcome in his
+face, although he did not attempt to conceal a smile at my forlorn
+appearance, and giving the necessary instructions about my luggage,
+led the way at once to his house, which was situated at the upper end
+of the street. A capital site, he said, when the rest of the town was
+under water--which agreeable variety occurred twice or thrice a year
+unexpectedly. On our way, he rather damped my hopes by expressing his
+fears that he should be unable to provide his sister with the
+accommodation he could wish. For you see, he said, the crowd from
+Panama has just come in, meeting your crowd from Navy Bay; and I
+shouldn't be at all surprised if very many of them have no better bed
+than the store floors. But, despite this warning, I was miserably
+unprepared for the reception that awaited me. To be sure, I found
+Cruces as like Gorgona, in its dampness, dirt, and confusion, as it
+well could be; but the crowd from the gold-fields of California had
+just arrived, having made the journey from Panama on mules, and the
+street was filled with motley groups in picturesque variety of attire.
+The hotels were also full of them, while many lounged in the verandahs
+after their day's journey. Rude, coarse gold-diggers, in gay-coloured
+shirts, and long, serviceable boots, elbowed, in perfect equality,
+keen Yankee speculators, as close shaven, neat, and clean on the
+Isthmus of Panama as in the streets of New York or New Orleans. The
+women alone kept aloof from each other, and well they might; for,
+while a very few seemed not ashamed of their sex, it was somewhat
+difficult to distinguish the majority from their male companions, save
+by their bolder and more reckless voice and manner. I must say,
+however, that many of them adopted male attire for the journey across
+the Isthmus only, as it spared them many compliments which their
+husbands were often disposed to resent, however flattering they might
+be to their choice.
+
+Through all these I pressed on, stiff, cold, and hungry, to the
+Independent Hotel, eagerly anticipating the comforts which awaited me
+there. At length we reached it. But, rest! warmth! comfort!--miserable
+delusions! Picture to yourself, sympathising reader, a long, low hut,
+built of rough, unhewn, unplaned logs, filled up with mud and split
+bamboo; a long, sloping roof and a large verandah, already full of
+visitors. And the interior: a long room, gaily hung with dirty
+calico, in stripes of red and white; above it another room, in which
+the guests slept, having the benefit of sharing in any orgies which
+might be going on below them, through the broad chinks between the
+rough, irregular planks which formed its floor. At the further end, a
+small corner, partitioned roughly off, formed a bar, and around it
+were shelves laden with stores for the travellers, while behind it was
+a little room used by my brother as his private apartment; but three
+female travellers had hired it for their own especial use for the
+night, paying the enormous sum of £10 for so exclusive a luxury. At
+the entrance sat a black man, taking toll of the comers-in, giving
+them in exchange for coin or gold-dust (he had a rusty pair of scales
+to weigh the latter) a dirty ticket, which guaranteed them supper, a
+night's lodging, and breakfast. I saw all this very quickly, and
+turned round upon my brother in angry despair.
+
+"What am I to do? Why did you ever bring me to this place? See what a
+state I am in--cold, hungry, and wretched. I want to wash, to change
+my clothes, to eat, to----"
+
+But poor Edward could only shrug his shoulders and shake his head, in
+answer to my indignant remonstrances. At last he made room for me in a
+corner of the crowded bar, set before me some food, and left me to
+watch the strange life I had come to; and before long I soon forgot my
+troubles in the novelty of my position.
+
+The difference between the passengers to and from California was very
+distinguishable. Those bound for the gold country were to a certain
+extent fresh from civilization, and had scarcely thrown off its
+control; whereas the homeward bound revelled in disgusting excess of
+licence. Although many of the women on their way to California showed
+clearly enough that the life of licence they sought would not be
+altogether unfamiliar to them, they still retained some appearance of
+decency in their attire and manner; but in many cases (as I have
+before said) the female companions of the successful gold-diggers
+appeared in no hurry to resume the dress or obligations of their sex.
+Many were clothed as the men were, in flannel shirt and boots; rode
+their mules in unfeminine fashion, but with much ease and courage; and
+in their conversation successfully rivalled the coarseness of their
+lords. I think, on the whole, that those French lady writers who
+desire to enjoy the privileges of man, with the irresponsibility of
+the other sex, would have been delighted with the disciples who were
+carrying their principles into practice in the streets of Cruces.
+
+The chief object of all the travellers seemed to be dinner or supper;
+I do not know what term they gave it. Down the entire length of the
+Independent Hotel ran a table covered with a green oilskin cloth, and
+at proper intervals were placed knives and forks, plates, and cups and
+saucers turned down; and when a new-comer received his ticket, and
+wished to secure his place for the coming repast, he would turn his
+plate, cup, and saucer up; which mode of reserving seats seemed
+respected by the rest. And as the evening wore on, the shouting and
+quarrelling at the doorway in Yankee twang increased momentarily;
+while some seated themselves at the table, and hammering upon it with
+the handles of their knives, hallooed out to the excited nigger cooks
+to make haste with the slapjack. Amidst all this confusion, my
+brother was quietly selling shirts, boots, trousers, etc., to the
+travellers; while above all the din could be heard the screaming
+voices of his touters without, drawing attention to the good cheer of
+the Independent Hotel. Over and over again, while I cowered in my snug
+corner, wishing to avoid the notice of all, did I wish myself safe
+back in my pleasant home in Kingston; but it was too late to find out
+my mistake now.
+
+At last the table was nearly filled with a motley assemblage of men
+and women, and the slapjack, hot and steaming, was carried in by the
+black cooks. The hungry diners welcomed its advent with a shout of
+delight; and yet it did not seem particularly tempting. But beyond all
+doubt it was a capital _pièce de résistance_ for great eaters; and
+before the dinner was over, I saw ample reasons to induce any
+hotel-keeper to give it his patronage. In truth, it was a thick
+substantial pancake of flour, salt, and water--eggs were far too
+expensive to be used in its composition; and by the time the supply
+had disappeared, I thought the largest appetites must have been
+stayed. But it was followed by pork, strips of beef stewed with hard
+dumplings, hams, great dishes of rice, jugs of molasses and treacle
+for sauce; the whole being washed down with an abundance of tea and
+coffee. Chickens and eggs were provided for those who were prepared to
+pay for these luxuries of Panama life. But, so scarce and expensive
+were they, that, as I afterwards discovered, those hotel-keepers whose
+larders were so stocked would hang out a chicken upon their signposts,
+as a sure attraction for the richer and more reckless diggers; while
+the touter's cry of "Eggs and chickens here" was a very telling one.
+Wine and spirits were also obtainable, but were seldom taken by the
+Americans, who are abstemious abroad as well as at home.
+
+After dinner the store soon cleared. Gambling was a great attraction;
+but my brother, dreading its consequences with these hot-brained
+armed men, allowed none to take place in his hotel. So some lounged
+away to the faro and monte tables, which were doing a busy trade;
+others loitered in the verandah, smoking, and looking at the native
+women, who sang and danced fandangos before them. The whole of the
+dirty, woe-begone place, which had looked so wretched by the light of
+day, was brilliantly illuminated now. Night would bring no rest to
+Cruces, while the crowds were there to be fed, cheated, or amused.
+Daybreak would find the faro-tables, with their piles of silver and
+little heaps of gold-dust, still surrounded by haggard gamblers;
+daybreak would gleam sickly upon the tawdry finery of the poor
+Spanish singers and dancers, whose weary night's work would enable
+them to live upon the travellers' bounty for the next week or so.
+These few hours of gaiety and excitement were to provide the Cruces
+people with food and clothing for as many days; and while their
+transitory sun shone, I will do them the justice to say they gathered
+in their hay busily. In the exciting race for gold, we need not be
+surprised at the strange groups which line the race-course. All that
+I wondered at was, that I had not foreseen what I found, or that my
+rage for change and novelty had closed my ears against the warning
+voices of those who knew somewhat of the high-road to California; but
+I was too tired to moralise long, and begged my brother to find me a
+bed somewhere. He failed to do so completely, and in despair I took
+the matter in my own hands; and stripping the green oilskin cloth
+from the rough table--it would not be wanted again until to-morrow's
+breakfast--pinned up some curtains round the table's legs, and turned
+in with my little servant beneath it. It was some comfort to know
+that my brother, his servants, and Mac brought their mattresses, and
+slept upon it above us. It was a novel bed, and required some slight
+stretch of the imagination to fancy it a four-poster; but I was too
+tired to be particular, and slept soundly.
+
+We were up right early on the following morning; and refreshed with my
+night's sleep, I entered heartily into the preparations for breakfast.
+That meal over, the homeward-bound passengers took boats _en route_
+for Gorgona, while those bound for California hired mules for the land
+journey to Panama. So after awhile all cleared away, and Cruces was
+left to its unhealthy solitude.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    AN UNWELCOME VISITOR IN CRUCES--THE CHOLERA--SUCCESS
+    OF THE YELLOW DOCTRESS--FEARFUL SCENE AT THE
+    MULE-OWNER'S--THE BURYING PARTIES--THE CHOLERA
+    ATTACKS ME.
+
+
+I do not think I have ever known what it is to despair, or even to
+despond (if such were my inclination, I have had some opportunities
+recently), and it was not long before I began to find out the bright
+side of Cruces life, and enter into schemes for staying there. But it
+would be a week or so before the advent of another crowd would wake
+Cruces to life and activity again; and in the meanwhile, and until I
+could find a convenient hut for my intended hotel, I remained my
+brother's guest.
+
+But it was destined that I should not be long in Cruces before my
+medicinal skill and knowledge were put to the test. Before the
+passengers for Panama had been many days gone, it was found that they
+had left one of their number behind them, and that one--the cholera. I
+believe that the faculty have not yet come to the conclusion that the
+cholera is contagious, and I am not presumptuous enough to forestall
+them; but my people have always considered it to be so, and the poor
+Cruces folks did not hesitate to say that this new and terrible plague
+had been a fellow-traveller with the Americans from New Orleans or
+some other of its favoured haunts. I had the first intimation of its
+unwelcome presence in the following abrupt and unpleasant manner:--
+
+A Spaniard, an old and intimate friend of my brother, had supped with
+him one evening, and upon returning home had been taken ill, and after
+a short period of intense suffering had died. So sudden and so
+mysterious a death gave rise to the rumour that he had been poisoned,
+and suspicion rested for a time, perhaps not unnaturally, upon my
+brother, in whose company the dead man had last been. Anxious for many
+reasons--the chief one, perhaps, the position of my brother--I went
+down to see the corpse. A single glance at the poor fellow showed me
+the terrible truth. The distressed face, sunken eyes, cramped limbs,
+and discoloured shrivelled skin were all symptoms which I had been
+familiar with very recently; and at once I pronounced the cause of
+death to be cholera. The Cruces people were mightily angry with me
+for expressing such an opinion; even my brother, although it relieved
+him of the odium of a great crime, was as annoyed as the rest. But by
+twelve o'clock that morning one of the Spaniard's friends was attacked
+similarly, and the very people who had been most angry with me a few
+hours previously, came to me now eager for advice. There was no doctor
+in Cruces; the nearest approach to one was a little timid dentist, who
+was there by accident, and who refused to prescribe for the sufferer,
+and I was obliged to do my best. Selecting from my medicine chest--I
+never travel anywhere without it--what I deemed necessary, I went
+hastily to the patient, and at once adopted the remedies I considered
+fit. It was a very obstinate case, but by dint of mustard emetics,
+warm fomentations, mustard plasters on the stomach and the back, and
+calomel, at first in large then in gradually smaller doses, I
+succeeded in saving my first cholera patient in Cruces.
+
+For a few days the terrible disease made such slow progress amongst us
+that we almost hoped it had passed on its way and spared us; but all
+at once it spread rapidly, and affrighted faces and cries of woe soon
+showed how fatally the destroyer was at work. And in so great request
+were my services, that for days and nights together I scarcely knew
+what it was to enjoy two successive hours' rest.
+
+And here I must pause to set myself right with my kind reader. He or
+she will not, I hope, think that, in narrating these incidents, I am
+exalting my poor part in them unduly. I do not deny (it is the only
+thing indeed that I have to be proud of) that I _am_ pleased and
+gratified when I look back upon my past life, and see times now and
+then, and places here and there, when and where I have been enabled to
+benefit my fellow-creatures suffering from ills my skill could often
+remedy. Nor do I think that the kind reader will consider this feeling
+an unworthy one. If it be so, and if, in the following pages, the
+account of what Providence has given me strength to do on larger
+fields of action be considered vain or egotistical, still I cannot
+help narrating them, for my share in them appears to be the one and
+only claim I have to interest the public ear. Moreover I shall be
+sadly disappointed, if those years of life which may be still in store
+for me are not permitted by Providence to be devoted to similar
+usefulness. I am not ashamed to confess--for the gratification is,
+after all, a selfish one--that I love to be of service to those who
+need a woman's help. And wherever the need arises--on whatever distant
+shore--I ask no greater or higher privilege than to minister to it.
+After this explanation, I resume more freely the account of my labours
+in Cruces.
+
+It was scarcely surprising that the cholera should spread rapidly, for
+fear is its powerful auxiliary, and the Cruces people bowed down
+before the plague in slavish despair. The Americans and other
+foreigners in the place showed a brave front, but the natives,
+constitutionally cowardly, made not the feeblest show of resistance.
+Beyond filling the poor church, and making the priests bring out into
+the streets figures of tawdry dirty saints, supposed to possess some
+miraculous influence which they never exerted, before which they
+prostrated themselves, invoking their aid with passionate prayers and
+cries, they did nothing. Very likely the saints would have got the
+credit of helping them if they had helped themselves; but the poor
+cowards never stirred a finger to clean out their close, reeking huts,
+or rid the damp streets of the rotting accumulation of months. I think
+their chief reliance was on "the yellow woman from Jamaica with the
+cholera medicine." Nor was this surprising; for the Spanish doctor,
+who was sent for from Panama, became nervous and frightened at the
+horrors around him, and the people soon saw that he was not familiar
+with the terrible disease he was called upon to do battle with, and
+preferred trusting to one who was.
+
+It must be understood that many of those who could afford to pay for
+my services did so handsomely, but the great majority of my patients
+had nothing better to give their doctress than thanks. The best part
+of my practice lay amongst the American store and hotel keepers, the
+worst among the native boatmen and muleteers. These latter died by
+scores, and among them I saw some scenes of horror I would fain
+forget, if it were possible. One terrible night, passed with some of
+them, has often haunted me. I will endeavour to narrate it, and should
+the reader be supposed to think it highly coloured and doubtful, I
+will only tell him that, terrible as it seems, I saw almost as fearful
+scenes on the Crimean peninsula among British men, a few thousand
+miles only from comfort and plenty.
+
+It was late in the evening when the largest mule-owner in Cruces came
+to me and implored me to accompany him to his kraal, a short distance
+from the town, where he said some of his men were dying. One in
+particular, his head muleteer, a very valuable servant, he was most
+selfishly anxious for, and, on the way thither, promised me a large
+remuneration if I should succeed in saving him. Our journey was not a
+long one, but it rained hard, and the fields were flooded, so that it
+took us some time to reach the long, low hut which he called his home.
+I would rather not see such another scene as the interior of that hut
+presented. Its roof scarcely sheltered its wretched inmates from the
+searching rain; its floor was the damp, rank turf, trodden by the
+mules' hoofs and the muleteers' feet into thick mud. Around, in dirty
+hammocks, and on the damp floor, were the inmates of this wretched
+place, male and female, the strong and the sick together, breathing
+air that nearly choked me, accustomed as I had grown to live in impure
+atmosphere; for beneath the same roof the mules, more valuable to
+their master than his human servants, were stabled, their fore-feet
+locked, and beside them were heaps of saddles, packs, and harness. The
+groans of the sufferers and the anxiety and fear of their comrades
+were so painful to hear and witness, that for a few minutes I felt an
+almost uncontrollable impulse to run out into the stormy night, and
+flee from this plague-spot. But the weak feeling vanished, and I set
+about my duty. The mule-owner was so frightened that he did not
+hesitate to obey orders, and, by my directions, doors and shutters
+were thrown open, fires were lighted, and every effort made to
+ventilate the place; and then, with the aid of the frightened women, I
+applied myself to my poor patients. Two were beyond my skill. Death
+alone could give them relief. The others I could help. But no words of
+mine could induce them to bear their terrible sufferings like men.
+They screamed and groaned, not like women, for few would have been so
+craven-hearted, but like children; calling, in the intervals of
+violent pain, upon Jesu, the Madonna, and all the saints of heaven
+whom their lives had scandalised. I stayed with them until midnight,
+and then got away for a little time. But I had not long been quiet,
+before the mule-master was after me again. The men were worse; would I
+return with him. The rain was drifting heavily on the thatched roof,
+as it only does in tropical climates, and I was tired to death; but I
+could not resist his appeal. He had brought with him a pair of tall,
+thick boots, in which I was to wade through the flooded fields; and
+with some difficulty I again reached the kraal. I found the worst
+cases sinking fast, one of the others had relapsed, while fear had
+paralysed the efforts of the rest. At last I restored some order; and,
+with the help of the bravest of the women, fixed up rude screens
+around the dying men. But no screens could shut out from the others
+their awful groans and cries for the aid that no mortal power could
+give them. So the long night passed away; first a deathlike stillness
+behind one screen, and then a sudden silence behind the other, showing
+that the fierce battle with death was over, and who had been the
+victor. And, meanwhile, I sat before the flickering fire, with my last
+patient in my lap--a poor, little, brown-faced orphan infant, scarce a
+year old, was dying in my arms, and I was powerless to save it. It may
+seem strange, but it is a fact, that I thought more of that little
+child than I did of the men who were struggling for their lives, and
+prayed very earnestly and solemnly to God to spare it. But it did not
+please Him to grant my prayer, and towards morning the wee spirit
+left this sinful world for the home above it had so lately left, and
+what was mortal of the little infant lay dead in my arms. Then it was
+that I began to think--how the idea first arose in my mind I can
+hardly say--that, if it were possible to take this little child and
+examine it, I should learn more of the terrible disease which was
+sparing neither young nor old, and should know better how to do battle
+with it. I was not afraid to use my baby patient thus. I knew its fled
+spirit would not reproach me, for I had done all I could for it in
+life--had shed tears over it, and prayed for it.
+
+It was cold grey dawn, and the rain had ceased, when I followed the
+man who had taken the dead child away to bury it, and bribed him to
+carry it by an unfrequented path down to the river-side, and accompany
+me to the thick retired bush on the opposite bank. Having persuaded
+him thus much, it was not difficult, with the help of silver arguments
+to convince him that it would be for the general benefit and his own,
+if I could learn from this poor little thing the secret inner workings
+of our common foe; and ultimately he stayed by me, and aided me in my
+first and last _post mortem_ examination. It seems a strange deed to
+accomplish, and I am sure I could not wield the scalpel or the
+substitute I then used now, but at that time the excitement had
+strung my mind up to a high pitch of courage and determination; and
+perhaps the daily, almost hourly, scenes of death had made me somewhat
+callous. I need not linger on this scene, nor give the readers the
+results of my operation; although novel to me, and decidedly useful,
+they were what every medical man well knows.
+
+We buried the poor little body beneath a piece of luxuriant turf, and
+stole back into Cruces like guilty things. But the knowledge I had
+obtained thus strangely was very valuable to me, and was soon put into
+practice. But that I dreaded boring my readers, I would fain give them
+some idea of my treatment of this terrible disease. I have no doubt
+that at first I made some lamentable blunders, and, may be, lost
+patients which a little later I could have saved. I know I came
+across, the other day, some notes of cholera medicines which made me
+shudder, and I dare say they have been used in their turn and found
+wanting. The simplest remedies were perhaps the best. Mustard
+plasters, and emetics, and calomel; the mercury applied externally,
+where the veins were nearest the surface, were my usual resources.
+Opium I rather dreaded, as its effect is to incapacitate the system
+from making any exertion, and it lulls the patient into a sleep which
+is often the sleep of death. When my patients felt thirsty, I would
+give them water in which cinnamon had been boiled. One stubborn attack
+succumbed to an additional dose of ten grains of sugar of lead, mixed
+in a pint of water, given in doses of a table-spoonful every quarter
+of an hour. Another patient, a girl, I rubbed over with warm oil,
+camphor, and spirits of wine. Above all, I never neglected to apply
+mustard poultices to the stomach, spine, and neck, and particularly to
+keep my patient warm about the region of the heart. Nor did I relax my
+care when the disease had passed by, for danger did not cease when the
+great foe was beaten off. The patient was left prostrate;
+strengthening medicines had to be given cautiously, for fever, often
+of the brain, would follow. But, after all, one great conclusion,
+which my practice in cholera cases enabled me to come to, was the old
+one, that few constitutions permitted the use of exactly similar
+remedies, and that the course of treatment which saved one man, would,
+if persisted in, have very likely killed his brother.
+
+Generally speaking, the cholera showed premonitory symptoms; such as
+giddiness, sickness, diarrhoea, or sunken eyes and distressed look;
+but sometimes the substance followed its forecoming shadow so quickly,
+and the crisis was so rapid, that there was no time to apply any
+remedies. An American carpenter complained of giddiness and
+sickness--warning signs--succeeded so quickly by the worst symptoms of
+cholera, that in less than an hour his face became of an indigo tint,
+his limbs were doubled up horribly with violent cramps, and he died.
+
+To the convicts--and if there could be grades of wretchedness in
+Cruces, these poor creatures were the lowest--belonged the terrible
+task of burying the dead; a duty to which they showed the utmost
+repugnance. Not unfrequently, at some fancied alarm, they would fling
+down their burden, until at last it became necessary to employ the
+soldiers to see that they discharged the task allotted to them.
+Ordinarily, the victims were buried immediately after death, with such
+imperfect rites of sepulture as the harassed frightened priests would
+pay them, and very seldom was time afforded by the authorities to the
+survivors to pay those last offices to the departed which a Spaniard
+and a Catholic considers so important. Once I was present at a
+terrible scene in the house of a New Granada grandee, whose pride and
+poverty justified many of the old Spanish proverbs levelled at his
+caste.
+
+It was when the cholera was at its height, and yet he had
+left--perhaps on important business--his wife and family, and gone to
+Panama for three days. On the day after his departure, the plague
+broke out in his house, and my services were required promptly. I
+found the miserable household in terrible alarm, and yet confining
+their exertions to praying to a coarse black priest in a black
+surplice, who, kneeling beside the couch of the Spanish lady, was
+praying (in his turn) to some favourite saint in Cruces. The sufferer
+was a beautiful woman, suffering from a violent attack of cholera,
+with no one to help her, or even to take from her arms the poor little
+child they had allowed her to retain. In her intervals of comparative
+freedom from pain, her cries to the Madonna and her husband were
+heartrending to hear. I had the greatest difficulty to rout the stupid
+priest and his as stupid worshippers, and do what I could for the
+sufferer. It was very little, and before long the unconscious Spaniard
+was a widower. Soon after, the authorities came for the body. I never
+saw such passionate anger and despair as were shown by her relatives
+and servants, old and young, at the intrusion--rage that she, who had
+been so exalted in life, should go to her grave like the poor, poor
+clay she was. Orders were given to bar the door against the convict
+gang who had come to discharge their unpleasant duty, and while all
+were busy decking out the unconscious corpse in gayest attire, none
+paid any heed to me bending over the fire with the motherless child,
+journeying fast to join its dead parent. I had made more than one
+effort to escape, for I felt more sick and wretched than at any
+similar scene of woe; but finding exit impossible, I turned my back
+upon them, and attended to the dying child. Nor did I heed their
+actions until I heard orders given to admit the burial party, and then
+I found that they had dressed the corpse in rich white satin, and
+decked her head with flowers.
+
+The agitation and excitement of this scene had affected me as no
+previous horror had done, and I could not help fancying that symptoms
+were showing themselves in me with which I was familiar enough in
+others. Leaving the dying infant to the care of its relatives (when
+the Spaniard returned he found himself widowed and childless), I
+hastened to my brother's house. When there, I felt an unpleasant chill
+come over me, and went to bed at once. Other symptoms followed
+quickly, and, before nightfall, I knew full well that my turn had come
+at last, and that the cholera had attacked me, perhaps its greatest
+foe in Cruces.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    AMERICAN SYMPATHY--I TAKE AN HOTEL IN CRUCES--MY
+    CUSTOMERS--LOLA MONTES--MISS HAYES AND THE
+    BISHOP--GAMBLING IN CRUCES--QUARRELS AMONGST THE
+    TRAVELLERS--NEW GRANADA MILITARY--THE THIEVES OF
+    CRUCES--A NARROW ESCAPE.
+
+
+When it became known that their "yellow doctress" had the cholera, I
+must do the people of Cruces the justice to say that they gave her
+plenty of sympathy, and would have shown their regard for her more
+actively, had there been any occasion. Indeed, when I most wanted
+quiet, it was difficult to keep out the sympathising Americans and
+sorrowing natives who came to inquire after me; and who, not content
+with making their inquiries, and leaving their offerings of blankets,
+flannel, etc., must see with their own eyes what chance the yellow
+woman had of recovery. The rickety door of my little room could never
+be kept shut for many minutes together. A visitor would open it
+silently, poke his long face in with an expression of sympathy that
+almost made me laugh in spite of my pain, draw it out again, between
+the narrowest possible opening, as if he were anxious to admit as
+little air as he could; while another would come in bodily, and after
+looking at me curiously and inquisitively, as he would eye a horse or
+nigger he had some thoughts of making a bid for, would help to carpet
+my room, with the result perhaps of his meditations, and saying,
+gravely, "Air you better, Aunty Seacole, now? Isn't there a something
+we can du for you, ma'am?" would as gravely give place to another and
+another yet, until I was almost inclined to throw something at them,
+or call them bad names, like the Scotch king does the ghosts in the
+play.[A] But, fortunately, the attack was a very mild one, and by the
+next day all danger had gone by, although I still felt weak and
+exhausted.
+
+After a few weeks, the first force of the cholera was spent, and
+although it lingered with us, as though loath to leave so fine a
+resting-place, for some months, it no longer gave us much alarm; and
+before long, life went on as briskly and selfishly as ever with the
+Cruces survivors, and the terrible past was conveniently forgotten.
+Perhaps it is so everywhere; but the haste with which the Cruces
+people buried their memory seemed indecent. Old houses found new
+masters; the mules new drivers; the great Spaniard chose another
+pretty woman, and had a grand, poor, dirty wedding, and was married by
+the same lazy black priest who had buried his wife, dead a few months
+back; and very likely they would all have hastened as quickly to
+forget their doctress, had circumstances permitted them: but every now
+and then one of them sickened and died of the old complaint; and the
+reputation I had established founded for me a considerable practice.
+The Americans in the place gladly retained me as their medical
+attendant, and in one way or other gave me plenty to do; but, in
+addition to this, I determined to follow my original scheme of keeping
+an hotel in Cruces.
+
+Right opposite my brother's Independent Hotel there was a place to let
+which it was considered I could adapt to my purpose. It was a mere
+tumble-down hut, with wattled sides, and a rotten thatched roof,
+containing two rooms, one small enough to serve as a bedroom. For this
+charming residence--very openly situated, and well ventilated--twenty
+pounds a month was considered a fair and by no means exorbitant rent.
+And yet I was glad to take possession of it; and in a few days had
+hung its rude walls with calico of gayest colour in stripes, with an
+exuberance of fringes, frills, and bows (the Americans love show
+dearly), and prepared it to accommodate fifty dinner guests. I had
+determined that it should be simply a _table d'hôte_, and that I would
+receive no lodgers. Once, and once only, I relaxed this rule in favour
+of two American women, who sent me to sleep by a lengthy quarrel of
+words, woke me in the night to witness its crisis in a fisticuff
+_duello_, and left in the morning, after having taken a fancy to some
+of my moveables which were most easily removeable. I had on my staff
+my black servant Mac, the little girl I have before alluded to, and a
+native cook. I had had many opportunities of seeing how my brother
+conducted his business; and adopted his tariff of charges. For an
+ordinary dinner my charge was four shillings; eggs and chickens were,
+as I have before said, distinct luxuries, and fetched high prices.
+
+Four crowds generally passed through Cruces every month. In these were
+to be found passengers to and from Chili, Peru, and Lima, as well as
+California and America. The distance from Cruces to Panama was not
+great--only twenty miles, in fact; but the journey, from the want of
+roads and the roughness of the country, was a most fatiguing one. In
+some parts--as I found when I made the journey, in company with my
+brother--it was almost impassable; and for more than half the
+distance, three miles an hour was considered splendid progress. The
+great majority of the travellers were rough, rude men, of dirty,
+quarrelsome habits; the others were more civilized and more dangerous.
+And it was not long before I grew very tired of life in Cruces,
+although I made money rapidly, and pressed my brother to return to
+Kingston. Poor fellow! it would have been well for him had he done so;
+for he stayed only to find a grave on the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+The company at my _table d'hôte_ was not over select; and it was often
+very difficult for an unprotected female to manage them, although I
+always did my best to put them in good humour. Among other comforts, I
+used to hire a black barber, for the rather large consideration of two
+pounds, to shave my male guests. You can scarcely conceive the
+pleasure and comfort an American feels in a clean chin; and I believe
+my barber attracted considerable custom to the British Hotel at
+Cruces. I had a little out-house erected for his especial convenience;
+and there, well provided with towels, and armed with plenty of razors,
+a brush of extraordinary size, and a foaming sea of lather, José
+shaved the new-comers. The rivalry to get within reach of his huge
+brush was very great; and the threats used by the neglected, when the
+grinning black was considered guilty of any interested partiality,
+were of the fiercest description.
+
+This duty over, they and their coarser female companions--many of them
+well known to us, for they travelled backwards and forwards across the
+Isthmus, hanging on to the foolish gold-finders--attacked the dinner,
+very often with great lack of decency. It was no use giving them
+carving-knives and forks, for very often they laid their own down to
+insert a dirty hairy hand into a full dish; while the floor soon bore
+evidences of the great national American habit of expectoration. Very
+often quarrels would arise during the progress of dinner; and more
+than once I thought the knives, which they nearly swallowed at every
+mouthful, would have been turned against one another. It was, I always
+thought, extremely fortunate that the reckless men rarely stimulated
+their excitable passions with strong drink. Tea and coffee were the
+common beverages of the Americans; Englishmen, and men of other
+nations, being generally distinguishable by their demand for wine and
+spirits. But the Yankee's capacity for swilling tea and coffee was
+prodigious. I saw one man drink ten cups of coffee; and finding his
+appetite still unsatisfied, I ran across to my brother for advice.
+There was a merry twinkle in his eyes as he whispered, "I always put
+in a good spoonful of salt after the sixth cup. It chokes them off
+admirably."
+
+It was no easy thing to avoid being robbed and cheated by the less
+scrupulous travellers; although I think it was only the 'cutest Yankee
+who stood any fair chance of outwitting me. I remember an instance of
+the biter bit, which I will narrate, hoping it may make my reader
+laugh as heartily as its recollection makes me. He was a tall, thin
+Yankee, with a furtive glance of the eyes, and an amazing appetite,
+which he seemed nothing loath to indulge: his appetite for eggs
+especially seemed unbounded. Now, I have more than once said how
+expensive eggs were; and this day they happened to be eightpence
+apiece. Our plan was to charge every diner according to the number of
+shells found upon his plate. Now, I noticed how eagerly my thin guest
+attacked my eggs, and marvelled somewhat at the scanty pile of shells
+before him. My suspicions once excited, I soon fathomed my Yankee
+friend's dodge. As soon as he had devoured the eggs, he conveyed
+furtively the shells beneath the table, and distributed them
+impartially at the feet of his companions. I gave my little black maid
+a piece of chalk, and instructions; and creeping under the table, she
+counted the scattered shells, and chalked the number on the tail of
+his coat. And when he came up to pay his score, he gave up his number
+of eggs in a loud voice; and when I contradicted him, and referred to
+the coat-_tale_ in corroboration of _my_ score, there was a general
+laugh against him. But there was a nasty expression in his cat-like
+eyes, and an unpleasant allusion to mine, which were not agreeable,
+and dissuaded me from playing any more practical jokes upon the
+Yankees.
+
+I followed my brother's example closely, and forbade all gambling in
+my hotel. But I got some idea of its fruits from the cases brought to
+me for surgical treatment from the faro and monte tables. Gambling at
+Cruces, and on the Isthmus generally, was a business by which money
+was wormed out of the gold-seekers and gold-finders. No attempt was
+made to render it attractive, as I have seen done elsewhere. The
+gambling-house was often plainer than our hotels; and but for the
+green tables, with their piles of money and gold-dust, watched over by
+a well-armed determined banker, and the eager gamblers around, you
+would not know that you were in the vicinity of a spot which the
+English at home designate by a very decided and extreme name. A Dr.
+Casey--everybody familiar with the Americans knows their fondness for
+titles--owned the most favoured table in Cruces; and this, although he
+was known to be a reckless and unscrupulous villain. Most of them knew
+that he had been hunted out of San Francisco; and at that time--years
+before the Vigilance Committee commenced their labours of
+purification--a man too bad for that city must have been a prodigy of
+crime: and yet, and although he was violent-tempered, and had a knack
+of referring the slightest dispute to his revolver, his table was
+always crowded; probably because--the greatest rogues have some good
+qualities--he was honest in his way, and played fairly.
+
+Occasionally some distinguished passengers passed on the upward and
+downward tides of rascality and ruffianism, that swept periodically
+through Cruces. Came one day, Lola Montes, in the full zenith of her
+evil fame, bound for California, with a strange suite. A good-looking,
+bold woman, with fine, bad eyes, and a determined bearing; dressed
+ostentatiously in perfect male attire, with shirt-collar turned down
+over a velvet lapelled coat, richly worked shirt-front, black hat,
+French unmentionables, and natty, polished boots with spurs. She
+carried in her hand a handsome riding-whip, which she could use as
+well in the streets of Cruces as in the towns of Europe; for an
+impertinent American, presuming--perhaps not unnaturally--upon her
+reputation, laid hold jestingly of the tails of her long coat, and as
+a lesson received a cut across his face that must have marked him for
+some days. I did not wait to see the row that followed, and was glad
+when the wretched woman rode off on the following morning. A very
+different notoriety followed her at some interval of time--Miss
+Catherine Hayes, on her successful singing tour, who disappointed us
+all by refusing to sing at Cruces; and after her came an English
+bishop from Australia, who need have been a member of the church
+militant to secure his pretty wife from the host of admirers she had
+gained during her day's journey from Panama.
+
+Very quarrelsome were the majority of the crowds, holding life cheap,
+as all bad men strangely do--equally prepared to take or lose it upon
+the slightest provocation. Few tales of horror in Panama could be
+questioned on the ground of improbability. Not less partial were many
+of the natives of Cruces to the use of the knife; preferring, by the
+way, to administer sly stabs in the back, when no one was by to see
+the dastard blow dealt. Terribly bullied by the Americans were the
+boatmen and muleteers, who were reviled, shot, and stabbed by these
+free and independent filibusters, who would fain whop all creation
+abroad as they do their slaves at home. Whenever any Englishmen were
+present, and in a position to interfere with success, this bullying
+was checked; and they found, instead of the poor Spanish Indians,
+foemen worthy of their steel or lead. I must do them credit to say,
+that they were never loath to fight any one that desired that passing
+excitement, and thought little of ending their journey of life
+abruptly at the wretched wayside town of Cruces. It very often
+happened so, and over many a hasty head and ready hand have I seen the
+sod roughly pressed down, their hot hearts stilled suddenly in some
+senseless quarrel. And so in time I grew to have some considerable
+experience in the treatment of knife and gun-shot wounds.
+
+One night I heard a great noise outside my window, and on rising found
+a poor boatman moaning piteously, and in a strange jumble of many
+languages begging me to help him. At first I was afraid to open the
+door, on account of the noisy mob which soon joined him, for villainy
+was very shrewd at Cruces; but at last I admitted him, and found that
+the poor wretch's ears had been cruelly split by some hasty citizen of
+the United States. I stitched them up as well as I could, and silenced
+his cries. And at any time, if you happened to be near the river when
+a crowd were arriving or departing, your ears would be regaled with a
+choice chorus of threats, of which ear-splitting, eye-gouging,
+cow-hiding, and the application of revolvers were the mildest. Against
+the negroes, of whom there were many in the Isthmus, and who almost
+invariably filled the municipal offices, and took the lead in every
+way, the Yankees had a strong prejudice; but it was wonderful to see
+how freedom and equality elevate men, and the same negro who perhaps
+in Tennessee would have cowered like a beaten child or dog beneath an
+American's uplifted hand, would face him boldly here, and by equal
+courage and superior physical strength cow his old oppressor.
+
+When more than ordinary squabbles occurred in the street or at the
+gambling-tables, the assistance of the soldier-police of New Granada
+was called in, and the affair sometimes assumed the character of a
+regular skirmish. The soldiers--I wish I could speak better of
+them--were a dirty, cowardly, indolent set, more prone to use their
+knives than their legitimate arms, and bore old rusty muskets, and
+very often marched unshod. Their officers were in outward appearance a
+few shades superior to the men they commanded, but, as respects
+military proficiency, were their equals. Add to this description of
+their _personnel_ the well-known fact, that you might commit the
+grossest injustice, and could obtain the simplest justice only by
+lavish bribery, and you may form some idea of our military protectors.
+
+Very practised and skilful in thieving were the native population of
+Cruces--I speak of the majority, and except the negroes--always more
+inclined to do a dishonest night's labour at great risk, than an
+honest day's work for fair wages; for justice was always administered
+strictly to the poor natives--it was only the foreigners who could
+evade it or purchase exemption. Punishment was severe; and in extreme
+cases the convicts were sent to Carthagena, there to suffer
+imprisonment of a terrible character. Indeed, from what I heard of the
+New Granada prisons, I thought no other country could match them, and
+continued to think so until I read how the ingenuity in cruelty of his
+Majesty the King of Naples put the torturers of the New Granada
+Republic to the blush.
+
+I generally avoided claiming the protection of the law whilst on the
+Isthmus, for I found it was--as is the case in civilized England from
+other causes--rather an expensive luxury. Once only I took a thief
+caught in the act before the alcalde, and claimed the administration
+of justice. The court-house was a low bamboo shed, before which some
+dirty Spanish-Indian soldiers were lounging; and inside, the alcalde,
+a negro, was reclining in a dirty hammock, smoking coolly, hearing
+evidence, and pronouncing judgment upon the wretched culprits, who
+were trembling before his dusky majesty. I had attended him while
+suffering from an attack of cholera, and directly he saw me he rose
+from his hammock, and received me in a ceremonious, grand manner, and
+gave orders that coffee should be brought to me. He had a very pretty
+white wife, who joined us; and then the alcalde politely offered me a
+_cigarito_--having declined which, he listened to my statement with
+great attention. All this, however, did not prevent my leaving the
+necessary fee in furtherance of justice, nor his accepting it. Its
+consequence was, that the thief, instead of being punished as a
+criminal, was ordered to pay me the value of the stolen goods; which,
+after weeks of hesitation and delay, she eventually did, in pearls,
+combs, and other curiosities.
+
+Whenever an American was arrested by the New Granada authorities,
+justice had a hard struggle for the mastery, and rarely obtained it.
+Once I was present at the court-house, when an American was brought in
+heavily ironed, charged with having committed a highway robbery--if I
+may use the term where there were no roads--on some travellers from
+Chili. Around the frightened soldiers swelled an angry crowd of
+brother Americans, abusing and threatening the authorities in no
+measured terms, all of them indignant that a nigger should presume to
+judge one of their countrymen. At last their violence so roused the
+sleepy alcalde, that he positively threw himself from his hammock,
+laid down his cigarito, and gave such very determined orders to his
+soldiers that he succeeded in checking the riot. Then, with an air of
+decision that puzzled everybody, he addressed the crowd, declaring
+angrily, that since the Americans came the country had known no peace,
+that robberies and crimes of every sort had increased, and ending by
+expressing his determination to make strangers respect the laws of the
+Republic, and to retain the prisoner; and if found guilty, punish him
+as he deserved. The Americans seemed too astonished at the audacity of
+the black man, who dared thus to beard them, to offer any resistance;
+but I believe that the prisoner was allowed ultimately to escape.
+
+I once had a narrow escape from the thieves of Cruces. I had been down
+to Chagres for some stores, and returning, late in the evening, too
+tired to put away my packages, had retired to rest at once. My little
+maid, who was not so fatigued as I was, and slept more lightly, woke
+me in the night to listen to a noise in the thatch, at the further end
+of the store; but I was so accustomed to hear the half-starved mules
+of Cruces munching my thatch, that I listened lazily for a few
+minutes, and then went unsuspiciously into another heavy sleep. I do
+not know how long it was before I was again awoke by the child's loud
+screams and cries of "Hombro--landro;" and sure enough, by the light
+of the dying fire, I saw a fellow stealing away with my dress, in the
+pocket of which was my purse. I was about to rush forward, when the
+fire gleamed on a villainous-looking knife in his hand; so I stood
+still, and screamed loudly, hoping to arouse my brother over the way.
+For a moment the thief seemed inclined to silence me, and had taken a
+few steps forward, when I took up an old rusty horse-pistol which my
+brother had given me that I might look determined, and snatching down
+the can of ground coffee, proceeded to prime it, still screaming as
+loudly as my strong lungs would permit, until the rascal turned tail
+and stole away through the roof. The thieves usually buried their
+spoil like dogs, as they were; but this fellow had only time to hide
+it behind a bush, where it was found on the following morning, and
+claimed by me.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[A] Mrs. Seacole very likely refers to Macbeth. But it was the witches
+he abused.--Ed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    MIGRATION TO GORGONA--FAREWELL DINNERS AND SPEECHES--A
+    BUILDING SPECULATION--LIFE IN GORGONA--SYMPATHY WITH
+    AMERICAN SLAVES--DR. CASEY IN TROUBLE--FLOODS AND
+    FIRES--YANKEE INDEPENDENCE AND FREEDOM.
+
+
+I remained at Cruces until the rainy months came to an end, and the
+river grew too shallow to be navigable by the boats higher up than
+Gorgona; and then we all made preparations for a flitting to that
+place. But before starting, it appeared to be the custom for the store
+and hotel keepers to exchange parting visits, and to many of these
+parties I, in virtue of my recent services to the community, received
+invitations. The most important social meeting took place on the
+anniversary of the declaration of American independence, at my
+brother's hotel, where a score of zealous Americans dined most
+heartily--as they never fail to do; and, as it was an especial
+occasion, drank champagne liberally at twelve shillings a bottle. And,
+after the usual patriotic toasts had been duly honoured, they proposed
+"the ladies," with an especial reference to myself, in a speech which
+I thought worth noting down at the time. The spokesman was a thin,
+sallow-looking American, with a pompous and yet rapid delivery, and a
+habit of turning over his words with his quid before delivering them,
+and clearing his mouth after each sentence, perhaps to make room for
+the next. I shall beg the reader to consider that the blanks express
+the time expended on this operation. He dashed into his work at once,
+rolling up and getting rid of his sentences as he went on:--
+
+"Well, gentlemen, I expect you'll all support me in a drinking of this
+toast that I du----. Aunty Seacole, gentlemen; I give you, Aunty
+Seacole----. We can't du less for her, after what she's done for
+us----, when the cholera was among us, gentlemen----, not many months
+ago----. So, I say, God bless the best yaller woman He ever made----,
+from Jamaica, gentlemen----, from the Isle of Springs----Well,
+gentlemen, I expect there are only tu things we're vexed for----; and
+the first is, that she ain't one of us----, a citizen of the great
+United States----; and the other thing is, gentlemen----, that
+Providence made her a yaller woman. I calculate, gentlemen, you're all
+as vexed as I am that she's not wholly white----, but I du reckon on
+your rejoicing with me that she's so many shades removed from being
+entirely black----; and I guess, if we could bleach her by any means
+we would----, and thus make her as acceptable in any company as she
+deserves to be----. Gentlemen, I give you Aunty Seacole!"
+
+And so the orator sat down amidst much applause. It may be supposed
+that I did not need much persuasion to return thanks, burning, as I
+was, to tell them my mind on the subject of my colour. Indeed, if my
+brother had not checked me, I should have given them my thoughts
+somewhat too freely. As it was, I said:--
+
+"Gentlemen,--I return you my best thanks for your kindness in drinking
+my health. As for what I have done in Cruces, Providence evidently
+made me to be useful, and I can't help it. But, I must say, that I
+don't altogether appreciate your friend's kind wishes with respect to
+my complexion. If it had been as dark as any nigger's, I should have
+been just as happy and as useful, and as much respected by those whose
+respect I value; and as to his offer of bleaching me, I should, even
+if it were practicable, decline it without any thanks. As to the
+society which the process might gain me admission into, all I can say
+is, that, judging from the specimens I have met with here and
+elsewhere, I don't think that I shall lose much by being excluded from
+it. So, gentlemen, I drink to you and the general reformation of
+American manners."
+
+I do not think that they altogether admired my speech, but I was a
+somewhat privileged person, and they laughed at it good-naturedly
+enough. Perhaps (for I was not in the best humour myself) I should
+have been better pleased if they had been angry.
+
+Rightly, I ought to have gone down to Gorgona a few weeks before
+Cruces was deserted, and secured an hotel; but I did not give up all
+hope of persuading my brother to leave the Isthmus until the very last
+moment, and then, of course, a suitable house was not to be hired in
+Gorgona for love or money. Seeing his fixed determination to stay, I
+consented to remain with him, for he was young and often ill, and set
+hard to work to settle myself somewhere. With the aid of an old
+Jamaica friend, who had settled at Gorgona, I at last found a
+miserable little hut for sale, and bought it for a hundred dollars. It
+consisted of one room only, and was, in its then condition, utterly
+unfit for my purpose; but I determined to set to work and build on to
+it--by no means the hazardous speculation in Gorgona, where bricks and
+mortar are unknown, that it is in England. The alcalde's permission to
+make use of the adjacent ground was obtained for a moderate
+consideration, and plenty of material was procurable from the opposite
+bank of the river. An American, whom I had cured of the cholera at
+Cruces, lent me his boat, and I hired two or three natives to cut down
+and shape the posts and bamboo poles. Directly these were raised, Mac
+and my little maid set to work and filled up the spaces between them
+with split bamboo canes and reeds, and before long my new hotel was
+ready to be roofed. The building process was simple enough, and I soon
+found myself in possession of a capital dining-room some thirty feet
+in length, which was gaily hung with coloured calico, concealing all
+defects of construction, and lighted with large oil lamps; a
+store-room, bar, and a small private apartment for ladies. Altogether,
+although I had to pay my labourers four shillings a day, the whole
+building did not cost me more than my brother paid for three months'
+rent of his hotel. I gave the travelling world to understand that I
+intended to devote my establishment principally to the entertainment
+of ladies, and the care of those who might fall ill on the route, and
+I found the scheme answered admirably. And yet, although the speculation
+paid well, I soon grew as weary of my life in Gorgona as I had been at
+Cruces; and when I found my brother proof against all persuasion to
+quit the Isthmus, I began to entertain serious thoughts of leaving
+him.
+
+Nor was it altogether my old roving inclination which led me to desire
+a change, although I dare say it had something to do with it. My
+present life was not agreeable for a woman with the least delicacy or
+refinement; and of female society I had none. Indeed, the females who
+crossed my path were about as unpleasant specimens of the fair sex as
+one could well wish to avoid. With very few exceptions, those who were
+not bad were very disagreeable, and as the majority came from the
+Southern States of America, and showed an instinctive repugnance
+against any one whose countenance claimed for her kindred with their
+slaves, my position was far from a pleasant one. Not that it ever gave
+me any annoyance; they were glad of my stores and comforts, I made
+money out of their wants; nor do I think our bond of connection was
+ever closer; only this, if any of them came to me sick and suffering
+(I say this out of simple justice to myself), I forgot everything,
+except that she was my sister, and that it was my duty to help her.
+
+I may have before said that the citizens of the New Granada Republic
+had a strong prejudice against all Americans. It is not difficult to
+assign a cause for this. In the first place, many of the negroes,
+fugitive from the Southern States, had sought refuge in this and the
+other States of Central America, where every profession was open to
+them; and as they were generally superior men--evinced perhaps by
+their hatred of their old condition and their successful flight--they
+soon rose to positions of eminence in New Granada. In the priesthood,
+in the army, in all municipal offices, the self-liberated negroes were
+invariably found in the foremost rank; and the people, for some
+reason--perhaps because they recognised in them superior talents for
+administration--always respected them more than, and preferred them
+to, their native rulers. So that, influenced naturally by these freed
+slaves, who bore themselves before their old masters bravely and like
+men, the New Granada people were strongly prejudiced against the
+Americans. And in the second and third places, they feared their
+quarrelsome, bullying habits--be it remembered that the crowds to
+California were of the lowest sorts, many of whom have since
+fertilised Cuban and Nicaraguan soil--and dreaded their schemes for
+annexation. To such an extent was this amusingly carried, that when
+the American Railway Company took possession of Navy Bay, and
+christened it Aspinwall, after the name of their Chairman, the native
+authorities refused to recognise their right to name any portion of
+the Republic, and pertinaciously returned all letters directed to
+Aspinwall, with "no such place known" marked upon them in the very
+spot for which they were intended. And, in addition to this, the legal
+authorities refused to compel any defendant to appear who was
+described as of Aspinwall, and put every plaintiff out of court who
+described himself as residing in that unrecognised place.
+
+Under these circumstances, my readers can easily understand that when
+any Americans crossed the Isthmus, accompanied by their slaves, the
+Cruces and Gorgona people were restlessly anxious to whisper into
+their ears offers of freedom and hints how easy escape would be. Nor
+were the authorities at all inclined to aid in the recapture of a
+runaway slave. So that, as it was necessary for the losers to go on
+with the crowd, the fugitive invariably escaped. It is one of the
+maxims of the New Granada constitution--as it is, I believe, of the
+English--that on a slave touching its soil his chains fall from him.
+Rather than irritate so dangerous a neighbour as America, this rule
+was rarely supported; but I remember the following instance of its
+successful application.
+
+A young American woman, whose character can be best described by the
+word "vicious," fell ill at Gorgona, and was left behind by her
+companions under the charge of a young negro, her slave, whom she
+treated most inhumanly, as was evinced by the poor girl's frequent
+screams when under the lash. One night her cries were so distressing,
+that Gorgona could stand it no longer, but broke into the house and
+found the chattel bound hand and foot, naked, and being severely
+lashed. Despite the threats and astonishment of the mistress, they
+were both carried off on the following morning, before the alcalde,
+himself a man of colour, and of a very humane disposition. When the
+particulars of the case were laid before him, he became strongly
+excited, and called upon the woman to offer an explanation of her
+cruelty. She treated it with the coolest unconcern--"The girl was her
+property, worth so many dollars, and a child at New Orleans; had
+misbehaved herself, and been properly corrected. The alcalde must be
+drunk or a fool, or both together, to interfere between an American
+and her property." Her coolness vanished, however, when the alcalde
+turned round to the girl and told her that she was free to leave her
+mistress when she liked; and when she heard the irrepressible cheering
+of the crowded court-hut at the alcalde's humanity and boldness, and
+saw the slave's face flush with delight at the judge's words, she
+became terribly enraged; made use of the most fearful threats, and
+would have wreaked summary vengeance on her late chattel had not the
+clumsy soldiery interfered. Then, with demoniac refinement of cruelty,
+she bethought herself of the girl's baby at New Orleans still in her
+power, and threatened most horrible torture to the child if its mother
+dared to accept the alcalde's offer.
+
+The poor girl trembled and covered her face with her hands, as though
+to shut out some fearful sight, and, I think, had we not persuaded her
+to the contrary, that she would have sacrificed her newly won freedom
+for the child's sake. But we knew very well that when the heat of
+passion had subsided, the threatener would be too 'cute to injure her
+own property; and at once set afloat a subscription for the purchase
+of the child. The issue of the tale I do not know, as the woman was
+very properly removed into the interior of the country.
+
+Life at Gorgona resembled life at Cruces so nearly that it does not
+need a separate description. Down with the store and hotel keepers
+came the muleteers and mules, porters and hangers-on, idlers and
+thieves, gamblers and dancing women; and soon the monte-tables were
+fitted up, and plying their deadly trade; and the dancers charmed the
+susceptible travellers as successfully in the dirty streets of Gorgona
+as they had previously done in the unwholesome precincts of Cruces.
+And Dr. Casey was very nearly getting himself into serious trouble,
+from too great a readiness to use his revolver. Still, he had a better
+excuse for bloodshed this time than might have been found for his
+previous breaches of the sixth commandment. Among the desperadoes who
+frequented his gambling-hut, during their short stay in Gorgona, was
+conceived the desperate plan of putting out the lights, and upsetting
+Casey's table--trusting in the confusion to carry off the piles of
+money upon it. The first part of their programme was successfully
+carried out; but the second was frustrated by the Doctor promptly
+firing his revolver into the dark, and hitting an unoffending boy in
+the hip. And at this crisis the Gorgona police entered, carried off
+all the parties they could lay hands upon (including the Doctor) to
+prison, and brought the wounded boy to me.
+
+On the following morning came a most urgent request that I would visit
+the imprisoned Doctor. I found him desperately angry, but somewhat
+nervous too, for the alcalde was known to be no friend to the
+Americans, owed Casey more than one grudge, and had shown recently a
+disposition to enforce the laws.
+
+"I say, Mrs. Seacole, how's that ---- boy?"
+
+"Oh, Dr. Casey, how could you shoot the poor lad, and now call him bad
+names, as though he'd injured you? He is very ill indeed--may die; so
+I advise you to think seriously of your position."
+
+"But, Madame Seacole," (this in a very altered tone), "_you'll_ surely
+help me? _you'll_ surely tell the alcalde that the wound's a slight
+one? He's a friend of yours, and will let me out of this hole. Come,
+Madame Seacole, you'll never leave me to be murdered by these
+bloodthirsty savages?"
+
+"What can I do or say, Dr. Casey? I must speak the truth, and the ball
+is still in the poor lad's hip," I answered, for I enjoyed the
+fellow's fear too much to help him. However, he sent some of his
+friends to the boy's father, and bribed him to take the lad from my
+care, and send him to Navy Bay, to a surgeon there. Of course, he
+never returned to prosecute Dr. Casey; and he was left with the
+alcalde only to deal with, who, although he hated the man, could not
+resist his money, and so set him free.
+
+Gorgona lying lower than Cruces, its inhabitants more frequently
+enjoyed the excitement of a flood. After heavy rains, the river would
+rise so rapidly that in a few hours the chief part of the place would
+be under water. On such occasions the scene was unusually exciting. As
+the water crept up the street, the frightened householders kept
+removing their goods and furniture to higher ground; while here and
+there, where the waters had surrounded them unawares, boats were sent
+to their rescue. The houses, not made to resist much wind or water,
+often gave way, and were carried down the Chagres. Meanwhile, the
+thieves were the busiest--the honest folks, forgetting the true old
+adage, "God helps those who help themselves," confining their
+exertions to bringing down their favourite saints to the water's edge,
+and invoking their interposition.
+
+Fortunately my hotel was at the upper end of the town, where the
+floods had been rarely known to extend; and although there was a
+sufficient chance of the water reaching me to compel me to have all my
+stores, etc., ready packed for removal, I escaped. Some distressing
+losses occurred. A Frenchman, a near neighbour, whose house was
+surrounded by the waters before he could remove his goods, grew so
+frantic at the loss, that he obstinately refused to quit his falling
+house; and some force had to be used before they could save his life.
+
+Scarcely had the ravages of the last flood been repaired when fire
+marked Gorgona for its prey. The conflagration began at a store by the
+river-side; but it spread rapidly, and before long all Gorgona was in
+danger. The town happened to be very full that night, two crowds
+having met there, and there was great confusion; but at last the lazy
+soldier-police, aided by the Americans, succeeded in pulling down some
+old crazy huts, and checking the fire's progress. The travellers were
+in sore plight, many of them being reduced to sleep upon their
+luggage, piled in the drenched streets. My hotel had some interesting
+inmates, for a poor young creature, borne in from one of the burning
+houses, became a mother during the night; and a stout little lassie
+opened its eyes upon this waesome world during the excitement and
+danger of a Gorgona conflagration.
+
+Shortly after this, tired to death of life in Panama, I handed over my
+hotel to my brother, and returned to Kingston. On the way thither I
+experienced another instance of American politeness, which I cannot
+help recording; first reminding my readers of what I have previously
+said of the character of the Californian travellers. Anxious to get
+home quickly, I took my passage in the first steamer that left Navy
+Bay--an American one; and late in the evening said farewell to the
+friends I had been staying with, and went on board. A very kind
+friend, an American merchant, doing a large business at Navy Bay, had
+tried hard to persuade me to delay my journey until the English
+company's steamer called; without, however, giving any good reasons
+for his wish. So, with Mac and my little maid, I passed through the
+crowd of female passengers on deck, and sought the privacy of the
+saloon. Before I had been long there, two ladies came to me, and in
+their cool, straightforward manner, questioned me.
+
+"Where air you going?"
+
+"To Kingston."
+
+"And how air you going?"
+
+"By sea."
+
+"Don't be impertinent, yaller woman. By what conveyance air you
+going?"
+
+"By this steamer, of course. I've paid for my passage."
+
+They went away with this information; and in a short time eight or
+nine others came and surrounded me, asking the same questions. My
+answers--and I was very particular--raised quite a storm of
+uncomplimentary remarks.
+
+"Guess a nigger woman don't go along with us in this saloon," said
+one. "I never travelled with a nigger yet, and I expect I shan't begin
+now," said another; while some children had taken my little servant
+Mary in hand, and were practising on her the politenesses which their
+parents were favouring me with--only, as is the wont of children, they
+were crueller. I cannot help it if I shock my readers; but the _truth_
+is, that one positively spat in poor little Mary's frightened yellow
+face.
+
+At last an old American lady came to where I sat, and gave me some
+staid advice. "Well, now, I tell you for your good, you'd better quit
+this, and not drive my people to extremities. If you do, you'll be
+sorry for it, I expect." Thus harassed, I appealed to the
+stewardess--a tall sour-looking woman, flat and thin as a dressed-up
+broomstick. She asked me sundry questions as to how and when I had
+taken my passage; until, tired beyond all endurance, I said, "My good
+woman, put me anywhere--under a boat--in your store-room, so that I
+can get to Kingston somehow." But the stewardess was not to be moved.
+
+"There's nowhere but the saloon, and you can't expect to stay with the
+white people, that's clear. Flesh and blood can stand a good deal of
+aggravation; but not that. If the Britishers is so took up with
+coloured people, that's their business; but it won't do here."
+
+This last remark was in answer to an Englishman, whose advice to me
+was not to leave my seat for any of them. He made matters worse; until
+at last I lost my temper, and calling Mac, bade him get my things
+together, and went up to the captain--a good honest man. He and some
+of the black crew and the black cook, who showed his teeth most
+viciously, were much annoyed. Muttering about its being a custom of
+the country, the captain gave me an order upon the agent for the money
+I had paid; and so, at twelve o'clock at night, I was landed again
+upon the wharf of Navy Bay.
+
+My American friends were vastly annoyed, but not much surprised; and
+two days later, the English steamer, the "Eagle," in charge of my old
+friend, Captain B----, touched at Navy Bay, and carried me to
+Kingston.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    THE YELLOW FEVER IN JAMAICA--MY EXPERIENCE OF DEATH-BED
+    SCENES--I LEAVE AGAIN FOR NAVY BAY, AND OPEN A STORE
+    THERE--I AM ATTACKED WITH THE GOLD FEVER, AND START FOR
+    ESCRIBANOS--LIFE IN THE INTERIOR OF THE REPUBLIC OF
+    NEW GRANADA--A REVOLUTIONARY CONSPIRACY ON A SMALL
+    SCALE--THE DINNER DELICACIES OF ESCRIBANOS--JOURNEY UP
+    THE PALMILLA RIVER--A FEW WORDS ON THE PRESENT ASPECT
+    OF AFFAIRS ON THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.
+
+
+I stayed in Jamaica eight months out of the year 1853, still
+remembered in the island for its suffering and gloom. I returned just
+in time to find my services, with many others, needful; for the yellow
+fever never made a more determined effort to exterminate the English
+in Jamaica than it did in that dreadful year. So violent was the
+epidemic, that some of my people fell victims to its fury, a thing
+rarely heard of before. My house was full of sufferers--officers,
+their wives and children. Very often they were borne in from the ships
+in the harbour--sometimes in a dying state, sometimes--after long and
+distressing struggles with the grim foe--to recover. Habituated as I
+had become with death in its most harrowing forms, I found these
+scenes more difficult to bear than any I had previously borne a part
+in; and for this reason perhaps, that I had not only to cheer the
+death-bed of the sufferer, but, far more trying task, to soothe the
+passionate grief of wife or husband left behind. It was a terrible
+thing to see young people in the youth and bloom of life suddenly
+stricken down, not in battle with an enemy that threatened their
+country, but in vain contest with a climate that refused to adopt
+them. Indeed, the mother country pays a dear price for the possession
+of her colonies.
+
+I think all who are familiar with the West Indies will acknowledge
+that Nature has been favourable to strangers in a few respects, and
+that one of these has been in instilling into the hearts of the
+Creoles an affection for English people and an anxiety for their
+welfare, which shows itself warmest when they are sick and suffering.
+I can safely appeal on this point to any one who is acquainted with
+life in Jamaica. Another benefit has been conferred upon them by
+inclining the Creoles to practise the healing art, and inducing them
+to seek out the simple remedies which are available for the terrible
+diseases by which foreigners are attacked, and which are found growing
+under the same circumstances which produce the ills they minister to.
+So true is it that beside the nettle ever grows the cure for its
+sting.
+
+I do not willingly care to dwell upon scenes of suffering and death,
+but it is with such scenes that my life's experience has made me most
+familiar, and it is impossible to avoid their description now and
+then; and here I would fain record, in humble spirit, my conclusions,
+drawn from the bearing of those whom I have now and then accompanied a
+little distance on their way into the Valley of the Shadow of Death,
+on the awful and important question of religious feeling. Death is
+always terrible--no one need be ashamed to fear it. How we bear it
+depends much upon our constitutions. I have seen some brave men, who
+have smiled at the cruellest amputation, die trembling like children;
+while others, whose lives have been spent in avoidance of the least
+danger or trouble, have drawn their last painful breath like heroes,
+striking at their foe to the last, robbing him of his victory, and
+making their defeat a triumph. But I cannot trace _all_ the peace and
+resignation which I have witnessed on many death-beds to temperament
+alone, although I believe it has much more to do with them than many
+teachers will allow. I have stood by receiving the last blessings of
+Christians; and closing the eyes of those who had nothing to trust to
+but the mercy of a God who will be far more merciful to us than we are
+to one another; and I say decidedly that the Christian's death is the
+glorious one, as is his life. You can never find a good man who is not
+a worker; he is no laggard in the race of life. Three, two, or one
+score years of life have been to him a season of labour in his
+appointed sphere; and as the work of the hands earns for us sweet rest
+by night, so does the heart's labour of a lifetime make the repose of
+heaven acceptable. This is my experience; and I remember one death, of
+a man whom I grew to love in a few short weeks, the thought of which
+stirs my heart now, and has sustained me in seasons of great danger;
+for before that time, if I had never feared death, I had not learnt to
+meet him with a brave, smiling face, and this he taught me.
+
+I must not tell you his name, for his friends live yet, and have been
+kind to me in many ways. One of them we shall meet on Crimean soil. He
+was a young surgeon, and as busy, light-hearted, and joyous as a good
+man should be; and when he fell ill they brought him to my house,
+where I nursed him, and grew fond of him--almost as fond as the poor
+lady his mother in England far away. For some time we thought him
+safe, but at last the most terrible symptoms of the cruel disease
+showed themselves, and he knew that he must die. His thoughts were
+never for himself, but for those he had to leave behind; all his pity
+was for them. It was trying to see his poor hands tremblingly penning
+the last few words of leave-taking--trying to see how piteously the
+poor worn heart longed to see once more the old familiar faces of the
+loved ones in unconscious happiness at home; and yet I had to support
+him while this sad task was effected, and to give him all the help I
+could. I think he had some fondness for me, or, perhaps, his kind
+heart feigned a feeling that he saw would give me joy; for I used to
+call him "My son--my dear child," and to weep over him in a very weak
+and silly manner perhaps.
+
+He sent for an old friend, Captain S----; and when he came, I had to
+listen to the dictation of his simple will--his dog to one friend, his
+ring to another, his books to a third, his love and kind wishes to
+all; and that over, my poor son prepared himself to die--a child in
+all save a man's calm courage. He beckoned me to raise him in the bed,
+and, as I passed my arms around him, he saw the tears I could not
+repress, rolling down my brown cheeks, and thanked me with a few
+words. "Let me lay my head upon your breast;" and so he rested, now
+and then speaking lowly to himself, "It's only that I miss my mother;
+but Heaven's will be done." He repeated this many times, until the
+Heaven he obeyed sent him in its mercy forgetfulness, and his thoughts
+no longer wandered to his earthly home. I heard glad words feebly
+uttered as I bent over him--words about "Heaven--rest--rest"--a holy
+Name many times repeated; and then with a smile and a stronger voice,
+"Home! home!" And so in a little while my arms no longer held him.
+
+I have a little gold brooch with his hair in it now. I wonder what
+inducement could be strong enough to cause me to part with that
+memorial, sent me by his mother some months later, with the following
+letter:--
+
+    "My dear Madam,--Will you do me the favour to accept the
+    enclosed trifle, in remembrance of that dear son whose
+    last moments were soothed by your kindness, and as a
+    mark of the gratitude of, my dear Madam,
+
+        "Your ever sincere and obliged,
+
+            "M---- S----."
+
+After this, I was sent for by the medical authorities to provide
+nurses for the sick at Up-Park Camp, about a mile from Kingston; and
+leaving some nurses and my sister at home, I went there and did my
+best; but it was little we could do to mitigate the severity of the
+epidemic.
+
+About eight months after my return to Jamaica, it became necessary
+that some one should go to the Isthmus of Panama to wind up the
+affairs of my late hotel; and having another fit of restlessness, I
+prepared to return there myself. I found Navy Bay but little altered.
+It was evening when I arrived there; and my friend Mr. H----, who came
+to meet me on the wharf, carefully piloted me through the wretched
+streets, giving me especial warning not to stumble over what looked
+like three long boxes, loosely covered with the _débris_ of a fallen
+house. They had such a peculiar look about them that I stopped to ask
+what they were, receiving an answer which revived all my former
+memories of Darien life, "Oh, they're only three Irishmen killed in a
+row a week ago, whom it's nobody's business to bury."
+
+I went to Gorgona, wound up the affairs of the hotel, and, before
+returning to Navy Bay, took the occasion of accompanying my brother to
+the town of Panama. We did not go with the crowd, but rode alone on
+mules, taking with us three native guides on foot; and although the
+distance was not much over twenty miles, and we started at daybreak,
+we did not reach Panama until nightfall. But far from being surprised
+at this, my chief wonder was that we ever succeeded in getting over
+the journey. Through sand and mud, over hill and plain--through thick
+forests, deep gulleys, and over rapid streams, ran the track; the road
+sometimes being made of logs of wood laid transversely, with faggots
+stuffed between; while here and there we had to work our way through a
+tangled network of brushwood, and over broken rocks that seemed to
+have been piled together as stones for some giant's sling. We found
+Panama an old-fashioned, irregular town, with queer stone houses,
+almost all of which had been turned by the traders into stores.
+
+On my return to Navy Bay--or Colon, as the New Granadans would have it
+called--I again opened a store, and stayed there for three months or
+so. I did not find that society had improved much in my absence;
+indeed, it appeared to have grown more lawless. Endless quarrels,
+often resulting in bloodshed, took place between the strangers and the
+natives, and disturbed the peace of the town. Once the Spanish were
+incensed to such an extent, that they planned a general rising against
+the foreigners; and but for the opportune arrival of an English
+war-steamer, the consequences might have been terrible. The Americans
+were well armed and ready; but the native population far outnumbered
+them.
+
+Altogether, I was not sorry when an opportunity offered itself to do
+something at one of the stations of the New Granada Gold-mining
+Company, Escribanos, about seventy miles from Navy Bay. I made the
+journey there in a little vessel, all communication by land from Navy
+Bay being impossible, on account of the thick, dense forests, that
+would have resisted the attempts of an army to cut its way through
+them. As I was at this place for some months altogether, and as it was
+the only portion of my life devoted to gold-seeking, I shall make no
+apologies for endeavouring to describe the out-of-the-way village-life
+of New Granada.
+
+Escribanos is in the province of Veraguas, in the State of New
+Granada--information uninteresting enough, I have little doubt, to all
+but a very few of my readers. It lies near the mouth of a rivulet
+bearing that name, which, leaving the river Belen, runs away to the
+sea on its own account, about a mile from the mouth of that river. It
+is a great neighbourhood for gold-mines; and about that time companies
+and private individuals were trying hard to turn them to good account.
+Near it is the Fort Bowen mine, and several others; some yielding
+silver, others gold ore, in small quantities. Others lie in the
+vicinity of the Palmilla--another river, which discharges itself into
+the sea about ten miles from Escribanos; and there were more eastward
+of it, near a similar river, the Coquelet. Legends were rife at that
+time, and they may be revived at no distant date, of the treasures to
+be found at Cucuyo, Zapetero, Pananomé, and many other Indian
+villages on their banks, which in times gone by had yielded up golden
+treasures to the Old World. But at this time the yield of gold did not
+repay the labour and capital necessary to extract it from the quartz;
+and it can only prove successful if more economical methods can be
+discovered than those now used for that purpose.
+
+Carlos Alexander, the alcalde of Escribanos, had made a good thing out
+of the gold mania. The mine had belonged to him; had been sold at a
+fine price, and, passing through several hands, had at last come into
+possession of the Company who were now working it; its former owner
+settling down as ruler over the little community of two hundred souls
+that had collected at Escribanos. He was a black man; was fond of
+talking of his early life in slavery, and how he had escaped; and
+possessed no ordinary intellect. He possessed, also, a house, which in
+England a well-bred hound would not have accepted as a kennel; a white
+wife, and a pretty daughter, with a whity-brown complexion and a
+pleasant name--Juliana.
+
+Of this mine Mr. Day--by whose invitation, when I saw him at Navy Bay,
+I went there--was at that time superintendent. He was a distant
+connection of my late husband, and treated me with great kindness.
+Strangely enough, we met again in a far different part of the world,
+and became more closely connected. But I am anticipating.
+
+The major part of the population of Escribanos, including even the
+women and children, worked at the mine. The labour was hard and
+disagreeable. I often used to watch them at their work; and would
+sometimes wander about by myself, thinking it possible that I might
+tumble across some gold in my rambles. And I once did come upon some
+heavy yellow material, that brought my heart into my mouth with that
+strange thrilling delight which all who have hunted for the precious
+metal understand so well. I think it was very wrong; but I kept the
+secret of the place from the alcalde and every one else, and filled
+some bottles with the precious dust, to carry down to Navy Bay. I did
+not go for some time; but when I did, one of my first visits was to a
+gold-buyer; and you can imagine my feelings when he coolly laughed,
+and told me it was some material (I forget its name) very like gold,
+but--valueless. The worst part of it was that, in my annoyance and
+shame, I threw all I had away, and among it some which I had reason to
+believe subsequently was genuine.
+
+The landing at Escribanos was very difficult, and when the surf ran
+high, impossible; and I was once witness to a harrowing scene there. A
+little boat, manned by three sailors, grounded on a rock not far from
+shore, at a terrible season, when to reach it from the land was, after
+many attempts, found impossible. The hapless crew lingered on for two
+days, suffering cruelly from hunger and thirst, their cries ringing in
+our ears above the storm's pitiless fury. On the third day, two of
+them took to the sea, and were drowned; the third was not strong
+enough to leave the boat, and died in it.
+
+I did not stay long at Escribanos, on my first visit, as the alcalde's
+guest; but, having made arrangements for a longer sojourn, I went back
+to Navy Bay, where I laid in a good stock of the stores I should have
+most use for, and returned to Escribanos in safety. I remained there
+some months, pleased with the novelty of the life, and busy with
+schemes for seeking for--or, as the gold-diggers call it, prospecting
+for--other mines.
+
+The foreigners were just as troublesome in this little out-of-the-way
+place as they were, and are, in every other part of Central America;
+and quarrels were as frequent in our little community as at Cruces or
+Navy Bay. Indeed, Alexander had hard work to maintain peace in his
+small kingdom; and although ably seconded by Mr. Day, more than once
+American disregard of his sway was almost too strong for him. Very
+often the few foreigners would quarrel among themselves; and once when
+they came to blows, and an Irishman was stabbed by an American named
+Campfield, the alcalde roused himself to punish the culprit. The
+native population were glad enough to have an American in their power;
+and when I heard Alexander give his men instructions to shoot the
+culprit if he resisted, I started off to his hut, and reached it in
+time to prevent bloodshed. He was taken and kept in confinement; and
+soft-hearted Juliana and I had enough to do to prevent his being made
+a stern example of. But we got him off for a fine of five hundred
+dollars.
+
+Again the little community of Escribanos was very near getting up a
+revolution against its constituted government--a very common amusement
+in Central America. Twelve sailors, deserters from an American ship,
+found their way there, and before long plotted to dethrone Alexander,
+and take possession of the mine. Mr. Day gained information of their
+plan. The whole population of Escribanos were roused and warned; and
+arming a score of the boldest natives, he surrounded the house in
+which they were, and captured the conspirators, who were too much
+taken by surprise to offer resistance, and sent them down to Navy
+Bay, there to be handed over to the Government whose service they had
+left.
+
+Of course, my medical skill did not rust for want of practice at
+Escribanos. The place was not healthy, and strangers to the climate
+suffered severely. A surgeon himself, sent there by the West Granada
+Gold-mining Company, was glad to throw _his_ physic to the dogs, and
+be cured in my way by mine; while I was fortunately able to nurse Mr.
+Day through a sharp attack of illness.
+
+In consequence of the difficulty of communication with Navy Bay, our
+fare was of the simplest at Escribanos. It consisted mainly of salt
+meat, rice, and roasted Indian corn. The native fare was not tempting,
+and some of their delicacies were absolutely disgusting. With what
+pleasure, for instance, could one foreign to their tastes and habits
+dine off a roasted monkey, whose grilled head bore a strong
+resemblance to a negro baby's? And yet the Indians used to bring them
+to us for sale, strung on a stick. They were worse still stewed in
+soup, when it was positively frightful to dip your ladle in
+unsuspectingly, and bring up what closely resembled a brown baby's
+limb. I got on better with the parrots, and could agree with the
+"senorita, buono buono" with which the natives recommended them; and
+yet their flesh, what little there was of it, was very coarse and
+hard. Nor did I always refuse to concede praise to a squirrel, if well
+cooked. But although the flesh of the iguana--another favourite
+dish--was white and tender as any chicken, I never could stomach it.
+These iguanas are immense green lizards, or rather moderate-sized
+crocodiles, sometimes three feet in length, but weighing generally
+about seven or eight pounds. The Indians used to bring them down in
+boats, alive, on their backs, with their legs tied behind them; so
+that they had the most comical look of distress it is possible to
+imagine. The Spanish Indians have a proverb referring to an iguana so
+bound, the purport of which has slipped from my memory, but which
+shows the habit to be an old one. Their eggs are highly prized, and
+their captors have a cruel habit of extracting these delicacies from
+them while alive, and roughly sewing up the wound, which I never could
+muster sufficient courage to witness.
+
+The rivers near Escribanos were well stocked with crocodiles, the sea
+had its fair share of sharks, while on land you too often met with
+snakes and other venomous reptiles. The sting of some of them was very
+dangerous. One man, who was bitten when I was there, swelled to an
+enormous size, and bled even at the roots of his hair. The remedy of
+the natives appeared to be copious bleeding.
+
+Before I left Escribanos I made a journey, in company with a gentleman
+named Little, my maid, and the alcalde's daughter, into the interior
+of the country, for a short distance, following the course of the
+Palmilla river. This was for the purpose of prospecting a mine on that
+river, said to be obtainable at an easy price. Its course was a very
+winding one; and we often had to leave the canoe and walk through the
+shallow waters, that every now and then interfered with our progress.
+As we progressed, Little carefully sounded the channel of the river,
+with the view of ascertaining to what extent it was navigable.
+
+The tropical scenery was very grand; but I am afraid I only marked
+what was most curious in it--at least, that is foremost in my memory
+now. I know I wondered much what motive Nature could have had in
+twisting the roots and branches of the trees into such strange
+fantastic contortions. I watched with unfailing interest the birds and
+animals we disturbed in our progress, from the huge peccary or wild
+boar, that went tearing through the brushwood, to the tiniest
+bright-hued bird that dashed like a flash of many-coloured fire before
+our eyes. And very much surprised was I when the Indians stopped
+before a large tree, and on their making an incision in the bark with
+a matcheto (hatchet), there exuded a thick creamy liquid, which they
+wished me to taste, saying that this was the famous milk-tree. I
+needed some persuasion at first; but when I had tasted some upon a
+biscuit, I was so charmed with its flavour that I should soon have
+taken more than was good for me had not Mr. Little interfered with
+some judicious advice. We reached the mine, and brought back specimens
+of the quartz, some of which I have now.
+
+Soon after this I left Escribanos, and stopping but a short time at
+Navy Bay, came on direct to England. I had claims on a Mining Company
+which are still unsatisfied; I had to look after my share in the
+Palmilla Mine speculation; and, above all, I had long been troubled
+with a secret desire to embark in a very novel speculation, about
+which I have as yet said nothing to the reader. But before I finally
+leave the republic of New Granada, I may be allowed to write a few
+words on the present aspect of affairs on the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+Recent news from America bring the intelligence that the Government of
+the United States has at length succeeded in finding a reasonable
+excuse for exercising a protectorate over, or in other words
+annexing, the Isthmus of Panama. To any one at all acquainted with
+American policy in Central America, this intelligence can give no
+surprise; our only wonder being that some such excuse was not made
+years ago. At this crisis, then, a few remarks from the humblest
+observer of life in the republic of New Granada must possess some
+interest for the curious, if not value.
+
+I found something to admire in the people of New Granada, but not
+much; and I found very much more to condemn most unequivocally.
+Whatever was of any worth in their institutions, such as their
+comparative freedom, religious toleration, etc., was owing mainly to
+the negroes who had sought the protection of the republic. I found the
+Spanish Indians treacherous, passionate, and indolent, with no higher
+aim or object but simply to enjoy the present after their own torpid,
+useless fashion. Like most fallen nations, they are very conservative
+in their habits and principles; while the blacks are enterprising, and
+in their opinions incline not unnaturally to democracy. But for their
+old antipathy, there is no doubt that the negroes would lean towards
+America; but they gladly encourage the prejudice of the New Granadans,
+and foster it in every way. Hence the ceaseless quarrels which have
+disturbed Chagres and Panama, until it has become necessary for an
+American force to garrison those towns. For humanity and
+civilization's sake, there can be little doubt as to the expediency of
+this step; but I should not be at all surprised to hear that the
+republic was preparing to make some show of resistance against its
+powerful brother; for, as the reader will have perceived, the New
+Granadans' experiences of American manners have not been favourable;
+and they do not know, as we do, how little real sympathy the
+Government of the United States has with the extreme class of its
+citizens who have made themselves so conspicuous in the great
+high-road to California.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    I LONG TO JOIN THE BRITISH ARMY BEFORE SEBASTOPOL--MY
+    WANDERINGS ABOUT LONDON FOR THAT PURPOSE--HOW I
+    FAIL--ESTABLISHMENT OF THE FIRM OF "DAY AND MARTIN"--I
+    EMBARK FOR TURKEY.
+
+
+Before I left Jamaica for Navy Bay, as narrated in the last chapter,
+war had been declared against Russia, and we were all anxiously
+expecting news of a descent upon the Crimea. Now, no sooner had I
+heard of war somewhere, than I longed to witness it; and when I was
+told that many of the regiments I had known so well in Jamaica had
+left England for the scene of action, the desire to join them became
+stronger than ever. I used to stand for hours in silent thought before
+an old map of the world, in a little corner of which some one had
+chalked a red cross, to enable me to distinguish where the Crimea was;
+and as I traced the route thither, all difficulties would vanish. But
+when I came to talk over the project with my friends, the best scheme
+I could devise seemed so wild and improbable, that I was fain to
+resign my hopes for a time, and so started for Navy Bay.
+
+But all the way to England, from Navy Bay, I was turning my old wish
+over and over in my mind; and when I found myself in London, in the
+autumn of 1854, just after the battle of Alma had been fought, and my
+old friends were fairly before the walls of Sebastopol, how to join
+them there took up far more of my thoughts than that visionary
+gold-mining speculation on the river Palmilla, which seemed so
+feasible to us in New Granada, but was considered so wild and
+unprofitable a speculation in London. And, as time wore on, the
+inclination to join my old friends of the 97th, 48th, and other
+regiments, battling with worse foes than yellow fever or cholera, took
+such exclusive possession of my mind, that I threw over the gold
+speculation altogether, and devoted all my energies to my new scheme.
+
+Heaven knows it was visionary enough! I had no friends who could help
+me in such a project--nay, who would understand why I desired to go,
+and what I desired to do when I got there. My funds, although they
+might, carefully husbanded, carry me over the three thousand miles,
+and land me at Balaclava, would not support me there long; while to
+persuade the public that an unknown Creole woman would be useful to
+their army before Sebastopol was too improbable an achievement to be
+thought of for an instant. Circumstances, however, assisted me.
+
+As the winter wore on, came hints from various quarters of
+mismanagement, want, and suffering in the Crimea; and after the
+battles of Balaclava and Inkermann, and the fearful storm of the 14th
+of November, the worst anticipations were realized. Then we knew that
+the hospitals were full to suffocation, that scarcity and exposure
+were the fate of all in the camp, and that the brave fellows for whom
+any of us at home would have split our last shilling, and shared our
+last meal, were dying thousands of miles away from the active sympathy
+of their fellow-countrymen. Fast and thick upon the news of Inkermann,
+fought by a handful of fasting and enfeebled men against eight times
+their number of picked Russians, brought fresh and animated to the
+contest, and while all England was reeling beneath the shock of that
+fearful victory, came the sad news that hundreds were dying whom the
+Russian shot and sword had spared, and that the hospitals of Scutari
+were utterly unable to shelter, or their inadequate staff to attend
+to, the ship-loads of sick and wounded which were sent to them across
+the stormy Black Sea.
+
+But directly England knew the worst, she set about repairing her past
+neglect. In every household busy fingers were working for the poor
+soldier--money flowed in golden streams wherever need was--and
+Christian ladies, mindful of the sublime example, "I was sick, and ye
+visited me," hastened to volunteer their services by those sick-beds
+which only women know how to soothe and bless.
+
+Need I be ashamed to confess that I shared in the general enthusiasm,
+and longed more than ever to carry my busy (and the reader will not
+hesitate to add experienced) fingers where the sword or bullet had
+been busiest, and pestilence most rife. I had seen much of sorrow and
+death elsewhere, but they had never daunted me; and if I could feel
+happy binding up the wounds of quarrelsome Americans and treacherous
+Spaniards, what delight should I not experience if I could be useful
+to my own "sons," suffering for a cause it was so glorious to fight
+and bleed for! I never stayed to discuss probabilities, or enter into
+conjectures as to my chances of reaching the scene of action. I made
+up my mind that if the army wanted nurses, they would be glad of me,
+and with all the ardour of my nature, which ever carried me where
+inclination prompted, I decided that I _would_ go to the Crimea; and
+go I did, as all the world knows.
+
+Of course, had it not been for my old strong-mindedness (which has
+nothing to do with obstinacy, and is in no way related to it--the best
+term I can think of to express it being "judicious decisiveness"), I
+should have given up the scheme a score of times in as many days; so
+regularly did each successive day give birth to a fresh set of rebuffs
+and disappointments. I shall make no excuse to my readers for giving
+them a pretty full history of my struggles to become a Crimean
+_heroine_!
+
+My first idea (and knowing that I was well fitted for the work, and
+would be the right woman in the right place, the reader can fancy my
+audacity) was to apply to the War Office for the post of hospital
+nurse. Among the diseases which I understood were most prevalent in
+the Crimea were cholera, diarrhoea, and dysentery, all of them more
+or less known in tropical climates; and with which, as the reader will
+remember, my Panama experience had made me tolerably familiar. Now, no
+one will accuse me of presumption, if I say that I thought (and so it
+afterwards proved) that my knowledge of these human ills would not
+only render my services as a nurse more valuable, but would enable me
+to be of use to the overworked doctors. That others thought so too, I
+took with me ample testimony. I cannot resist the temptation of
+giving my readers one of the testimonials I had, it seems so eminently
+practical and to the point:--
+
+    "I became acquainted with Mrs. Seacole through the
+    instrumentality of T. B. Cowan, Esq., H. B. M. Consul at
+    Colon, on the Isthmus of Panama, and have had many
+    opportunities of witnessing her professional zeal and
+    ability in the treatment of aggravated forms of tropical
+    diseases.
+
+    "I am myself personally much indebted for her
+    indefatigable kindness and skill at a time when I am apt
+    to believe the advice of a practitioner qualified in the
+    North would have little availed.
+
+    "Her peculiar fitness, in a constitutional point of
+    view, for the duties of a medical attendant, needs no
+    comment.
+
+        (Signed) "A. G. M.,
+
+            "Late Medical Officer, West Granada
+                Gold-mining Company."
+
+So I made long and unwearied application at the War Office, in
+blissful ignorance of the labour and time I was throwing away. I have
+reason to believe that I considerably interfered with the repose of
+sundry messengers, and disturbed, to an alarming degree, the official
+gravity of some nice gentlemanly young fellows, who were working out
+their salaries in an easy, off-hand way. But my ridiculous endeavours
+to gain an interview with the Secretary-at-War of course failed, and
+glad at last to oblige a distracted messenger, I transferred my
+attentions to the Quartermaster-General's department. Here I saw
+another gentleman, who listened to me with a great deal of polite
+enjoyment, and--his amusement ended--hinted, had I not better apply
+to the Medical Department; and accordingly I attached myself to their
+quarters with the same unwearying ardour. But, of course, I grew tired
+at last, and then I changed my plans.
+
+Now, I am not for a single instant going to blame the authorities who
+would not listen to the offer of a motherly yellow woman to go to the
+Crimea and nurse her "sons" there, suffering from cholera,
+diarrhoea, and a host of lesser ills. In my country, where people
+know our use, it would have been different; but here it was natural
+enough--although I had references, and other voices spoke for me--that
+they should laugh, good-naturedly enough, at my offer. War, I know, is
+a serious game, but sometimes very humble actors are of great use in
+it, and if the reader, when he comes in time to peruse the evidence of
+those who had to do with the Sebastopol drama, of my share in it, will
+turn back to this chapter, he will confess perhaps that, after all,
+the impulse which led me to the War Department was not unnatural.
+
+My new scheme was, I candidly confess, worse devised than the one
+which had failed. Miss Nightingale had left England for the Crimea,
+but other nurses were still to follow, and my new plan was simply to
+offer myself to Mrs. H---- as a recruit. Feeling that I was one of the
+very women they most wanted, experienced and fond of the work, I
+jumped at once to the conclusion that they would gladly enrol me in
+their number. To go to Cox's, the army agents, who were most obliging
+to me, and obtain the Secretary-at-War's private address, did not take
+long; and that done, I laid the same pertinacious siege to his great
+house in ---- Square, as I had previously done to his place of
+business.
+
+Many a long hour did I wait in his great hall, while scores passed in
+and out; many of them looking curiously at me. The flunkeys, noble
+creatures! marvelled exceedingly at the yellow woman whom no excuses
+could get rid of, nor impertinence dismay, and showed me very clearly
+that they resented my persisting in remaining there in mute appeal
+from their sovereign will. At last I gave that up, after a message
+from Mrs. H. that the full complement of nurses had been secured, and
+that my offer could not be entertained. Once again I tried, and had an
+interview this time with one of Miss Nightingale's companions. She
+gave me the same reply, and I read in her face the fact, that had
+there been a vacancy, I should not have been chosen to fill it.
+
+As a last resort, I applied to the managers of the Crimean Fund to
+know whether they would give me a passage to the camp--once there I
+would trust to something turning up. But this failed also, and one
+cold evening I stood in the twilight, which was fast deepening into
+wintry night, and looked back upon the ruins of my last castle in the
+air. The disappointment seemed a cruel one. I was so conscious of the
+unselfishness of the motives which induced me to leave England--so
+certain of the service I could render among the sick soldiery, and yet
+I found it so difficult to convince others of these facts. Doubts and
+suspicions arose in my heart for the first and last time, thank
+Heaven. Was it possible that American prejudices against colour had
+some root here? Did these ladies shrink from accepting my aid because
+my blood flowed beneath a somewhat duskier skin than theirs? Tears
+streamed down my foolish cheeks, as I stood in the fast thinning
+streets; tears of grief that any should doubt my motives--that Heaven
+should deny me the opportunity that I sought. Then I stood still, and
+looking upward through and through the dark clouds that shadowed
+London, prayed aloud for help. I dare say that I was a strange sight
+to the few passers-by, who hastened homeward through the gloom and
+mist of that wintry night. I dare say those who read these pages will
+wonder at me as much as they who saw me did; but you must all remember
+that I am one of an impulsive people, and find it hard to put that
+restraint upon my feelings which to you is so easy and natural.
+
+The morrow, however, brought fresh hope. A good night's rest had
+served to strengthen my determination. Let what might happen, to the
+Crimea I would go. If in no other way, then would I upon my own
+responsibility and at my own cost. There were those there who had
+known me in Jamaica, who had been under my care; doctors who would
+vouch for my skill and willingness to aid them, and a general who had
+more than once helped me, and would do so still. Why not trust to
+their welcome and kindness, and start at once? If the authorities had
+allowed me, I would willingly have given them my services as a nurse;
+but as they declined them, should I not open an hotel for invalids in
+the Crimea in my own way? I had no more idea of what the Crimea was
+than the home authorities themselves perhaps, but having once made up
+my mind, it was not long before cards were printed and speeding across
+the Mediterranean to my friends before Sebastopol. Here is one of
+them:--
+
+        "BRITISH HOTEL.
+        Mrs. Mary Seacole
+        (_Late of Kingston, Jamaica_),
+
+      Respectfully announces to her former kind friends,
+      and to the Officers of the Army and Navy generally,
+
+    That she has taken her passage in the screw-steamer
+    "Hollander," to start from London on the 25th of
+    January, intending on her arrival at Balaclava to
+    establish a mess table and comfortable quarters for sick
+    and convalescent officers."
+
+This bold programme would reach the Crimea in the end of January, at a
+time when any officer would have considered a stall in an English
+stable luxurious quarters compared to those he possessed, and had
+nearly forgotten the comforts of a mess-table. It must have read to
+them rather like a mockery, and yet, as the reader will see, I
+succeeded in redeeming my pledge.
+
+While this new scheme was maturing, I again met Mr. Day in England. He
+was bound to Balaclava upon some shipping business, and we came to the
+understanding that (if it were found desirable) we should together
+open a store as well as an hotel in the neighbourhood of the camp. So
+was originated the well-known firm of Seacole and Day (I am sorry to
+say, the camp wits dubbed it Day and Martin), which, for so many
+months, did business upon the now deserted high-road from the then
+busy harbour of Balaclava to the front of the British army before
+Sebastopol.
+
+These new arrangements were not allowed to interfere in any way with
+the main object of my journey. A great portion of my limited capital
+was, with the kind aid of a medical friend, invested in medicines
+which I had reason to believe would be useful; with the remainder I
+purchased those home comforts which I thought would be most difficult
+to obtain away from England.
+
+I had scarcely set my foot on board the "Hollander," before I met a
+friend. The supercargo was the brother of the Mr. S----, whose death
+in Jamaica the reader will not have forgotten, and he gave me a hearty
+welcome. I thought the meeting augured well, and when I told him my
+plans he gave me the most cheering encouragement. I was glad, indeed,
+of any support, for, beyond all doubt, my project was a hazardous one.
+
+So cheered at the outset, I watched without a pang the shores of
+England sink behind the smooth sea, and turned my gaze hopefully to
+the as yet landless horizon, beyond which lay that little peninsula to
+which the eyes and hearts of all England were so earnestly directed.
+
+So, cheerily! the good ship ploughed its way eastward ho! for Turkey.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    VOYAGE TO CONSTANTINOPLE--MALTA--GIBRALTAR--CONSTANTINOPLE,
+    AND WHAT I THOUGHT OF IT--VISIT TO SCUTARI HOSPITAL--MISS
+    NIGHTINGALE.
+
+
+I am not going to risk the danger of wearying the reader with a long
+account of the voyage to Constantinople, already worn threadbare by
+book-making tourists. It was a very interesting one, and, as I am a
+good sailor, I had not even the temporary horrors of sea-sickness to
+mar it. The weather, although cold, was fine, and the sea
+good-humouredly calm, and I enjoyed the voyage amazingly. And as day
+by day we drew nearer to the scene of action, my doubts of success
+grew less and less, until I had a conviction of the rightness of the
+step I had taken, which would have carried me buoyantly through any
+difficulties.
+
+On the way, of course, I was called up from my berth at an
+unreasonable hour to gaze upon the Cape of St. Vincent, and expected
+to feel duly impressed when the long bay where Trafalgar's fight was
+won came in view, with the white convent walls on the cliffs above
+bathed in the early sunlight. I never failed to take an almost
+childish interest in the signals which passed between the "Hollander"
+and the fleet of vessels whose sails whitened the track to and from
+the Crimea, trying to puzzle out the language these children of the
+ocean spoke in their hurried course, and wondering whether any, or
+what sufficiently important thing _could_ happen which would warrant
+their stopping on their busy way.
+
+We spent a short time at Gibraltar, and you may imagine that I was
+soon on shore making the best use of the few hours' reprieve granted
+to the "Hollander's" weary engines. I had an idea that I should do
+better alone, so I declined all offers of companionship, and selecting
+a brisk young fellow from the mob of cicerones who offered their
+services, saw more of the art of fortification in an hour or so than I
+could understand in as many years. The pleasure was rather fatiguing,
+and I was not sorry to return to the market-place, where I stood
+curiously watching its strange and motley population. While so
+engaged, I heard for the first time an exclamation which became
+familiar enough to me afterwards.
+
+"Why, bless my soul, old fellow, if this is not our good old Mother
+Seacole!" I turned round, and saw two officers, whose features, set in
+a broad frame of Crimean beard, I had some difficulty in recognising.
+But I soon remembered that they were two of the 48th, who had been
+often in my house at Kingston. Glad were the kind-hearted fellows, and
+not a little surprised withal, to meet their old hostess in the
+market-place of Gibraltar, bound for the scene of action which they
+had left invalided; and it was not long before we were talking old
+times over some wine--Spanish, I suppose--but it was very nasty.
+
+"And you are going to the front, old lady--you, of all people in the
+world?"
+
+"Why not, my sons?--won't they be glad to have me there?"
+
+"By Jove! yes, mother," answered one, an Irishman. "It isn't many
+women--God bless them!--we've had to spoil us out there. But it's not
+the place even for you, who know what hardship is. You'll never get a
+roof to cover you at Balaclava, nor on the road either." So they
+rattled on, telling me of the difficulties that were in store for me.
+But they could not shake my resolution.
+
+"Do you think I shall be of any use to you when I get there?"
+
+"Surely."
+
+"Then I'll go, were the place a hundred times worse than you describe
+it. Can't I rig up a hut with the packing-cases, and sleep, if need
+be, on straw, like Margery Daw?"
+
+So they laughed, and drank success to me, and to our next meeting;
+for, although they were going home invalided, the brave fellows'
+hearts were with their companions, for all the hardships they had
+passed through.
+
+We stopped at Malta also, where, of course, I landed, and stared about
+me, and submitted to be robbed by the lazy Maltese with all a
+traveller's resignation. Here, also, I met friends--some medical
+officers who had known me in Kingston; and one of them, Dr. F----,
+lately arrived from Scutari, gave me, when he heard my plans, a letter
+of introduction to Miss Nightingale, then hard at work, evoking order
+out of confusion, and bravely resisting the despotism of death, at the
+hospital of Scutari.
+
+So on, past beautiful islands and shores, until we are steaming
+against a swift current, and an adverse wind, between two
+tower-crested promontories of rock, which they tell me stand in Europe
+and in Asia, and are connected with some pretty tale of love in days
+long gone by. Ah! travel where a woman may, in the New World, or the
+Old, she meets this old, old tale everywhere. It is the one bond of
+sympathy which I have found existing in three quarters of the world
+alike. So on, until the cable rattles over the windlass, as the good
+ship's anchor plunges down fathoms deep into the blue waters of the
+Bosphorus--her voyage ended.
+
+I do not think that Constantinople impressed me so much as I had
+expected; and I thought its streets would match those of Navy Bay not
+unfairly. The caicques, also, of which I had ample experience--for I
+spent six days here, wandering about Pera and Stamboul in the daytime,
+and returning to the "Hollander" at nightfall--might be made more
+safe and commodious for stout ladies, even if the process interfered a
+little with their ornament. Time and trouble combined have left me
+with a well-filled-out, portly form--the envy of many an angular
+Yankee female--and, more than once, it was in no slight danger of
+becoming too intimately acquainted with the temperature of the
+Bosphorus. But I will do the Turkish boatmen the justice to say that
+they were as politely careful of my safety as their astonishment and
+regard for the well-being of their caicques (which they appear to love
+as an Arab does his horse, or an Esquimaux his dogs, and for the same
+reason perhaps) would admit. Somewhat surprised, also, seemed the
+cunning-eyed Greeks, who throng the streets of Pera, at the
+unprotected Creole woman, who took Constantinople so coolly (it would
+require something more to surprise her); while the grave English
+raised their eyebrows wonderingly, and the more vivacious French
+shrugged their pliant shoulders into the strangest contortions. I
+accepted it all as a compliment to a stout female tourist, neatly
+dressed in a red or yellow dress, a plain shawl of some other colour,
+and a simple straw wide-awake, with bright red streamers. I flatter
+myself that I woke up sundry sleepy-eyed Turks, who seemed to think
+that the great object of life was to avoid showing surprise at
+anything; while the Turkish women gathered around me, and jabbered
+about me, in the most flattering manner.
+
+How I ever succeeded in getting Mr. Day's letters from the
+Post-office, Constantinople, puzzles me now; but I did--and I shall
+ever regard my success as one of the great triumphs of my life. Their
+contents were not very cheering. He gave a very dreary account of
+Balaclava and of camp life, and almost dissuaded me from continuing my
+journey; but his last letter ended by giving me instructions as to the
+purchases I had best make, if I still determined upon making the
+adventure; so I forgot all the rest, and busied myself in laying in
+the stores he recommended.
+
+But I found time, before I left the "Hollander," to charter a crazy
+caicque, to carry me to Scutari, intending to present Dr. F----'s
+letter to Miss Nightingale.
+
+It was afternoon when the boatmen set me down in safety at the
+landing-place of Scutari, and I walked up the slight ascent, to the
+great dull-looking hospital. Thinking of the many noble fellows who
+had been borne, or had painfully crept along this path, only to die
+within that dreary building, I felt rather dull; and directly I
+entered the hospital, and came upon the long wards of sufferers, lying
+there so quiet and still, a rush of tears came to my eyes, and blotted
+out the sight for a few minutes. But I soon felt at home, and looked
+about me with great interest. The men were, many of them, very quiet.
+Some of the convalescent formed themselves into little groups around
+one who read a newspaper; others had books in their hands, or by their
+side, where they had fallen when slumber overtook the readers, while
+hospital orderlies moved to and fro, and now and then the female
+nurses, in their quiet uniform, passed noiselessly on some mission of
+kindness.
+
+I was fortunate enough to find an old acquaintance, who accompanied me
+through the wards, and rendered it unnecessary for me to trouble the
+busy nurses. This was an old 97th man--a Sergeant T----, whom I had
+known in Kingston, and who was slowly recovering from an attack of
+dysentery, and making himself of use here until the doctors should let
+him go back and have another "shy at the Rooshians." He is very glad
+to meet me, and tells me his history very socially, and takes me to
+the bedsides of some comrades, who had also known me at Up-Park Camp.
+My poor fellows! how their eyes glisten when they light upon an old
+friend's face in these Turkish barracks--put to so sad a use, three
+thousand miles from home. Here is one of them--"hurt in the trenches,"
+says the Sergeant, with shaven bandaged head, and bright, restless,
+Irish eyes, who hallooes out, "Mother Seacole! Mother Seacole!" in
+such an excited tone of voice; and when he has shaken hands a score of
+times, falls back upon his pillow very wearily. But I sit by his side,
+and try to cheer him with talk about the future, when he shall grow
+well, and see home, and hear them all thank him for what he has been
+helping to do, so that he grows all right in a few minutes; but,
+hearing that I am on the way to the front, gets excited again; for,
+you see, illness and weakness make these strong men as children, not
+least in the patient unmurmuring resignation with which they suffer. I
+think my Irish friend had an indistinct idea of a "muddle" somewhere,
+which had kept him for weeks on salt meat and biscuit, until it gave
+him the "scurvy," for he is very anxious that I should take over
+plenty of vegetables, of every sort. "And, oh! mother!"--and it is
+strange to hear his almost plaintive tone as he urges this--"take them
+plenty of eggs, mother; we never saw eggs over there."
+
+At some slight risk of giving offence, I cannot resist the temptation
+of lending a helping hand here and there--replacing a slipped
+bandage, or easing a stiff one. But I do not think any one was
+offended; and one doctor, who had with some surprise and, at first,
+alarm on his face, watched me replace a bandage, which was giving
+pain, said, very kindly, when I had finished, "Thank you, ma'am."
+
+One thought never left my mind as I walked through the fearful miles
+of suffering in that great hospital. If it is so here, what must it
+not be at the scene of war--on the spot where the poor fellows are
+stricken down by pestilence or Russian bullets, and days and nights of
+agony must be passed before a woman's hand can dress their wounds. And
+I felt happy in the conviction that _I must_ be useful three or four
+days nearer to their pressing wants than this.
+
+It was growing late before I felt tired, or thought of leaving
+Scutari, and Dr. S----, another Jamaica friend, who had kindly borne
+me company for the last half-hour agreed with me that the caicque was
+not the safest conveyance by night on the Bosphorus, and recommended
+me to present my letter to Miss Nightingale, and perhaps a lodging for
+the night could be found for me. So, still under the Sergeant's
+patient guidance, we thread our way through passages and corridors,
+all used as sick-wards, until we reach the corner tower of the
+building, in which are the nurses' quarters.
+
+I think Mrs. B----, who saw me, felt more surprise than she could
+politely show (I never found women so quick to understand me as the
+men) when I handed her Dr. F----'s kind letter respecting me, and
+apologized for troubling Miss Nightingale. There is that in the
+Doctor's letter (he had been much at Scutari) which prevents my
+request being refused, and I am asked to wait until Miss Nightingale,
+whose every moment is valuable, can see me. Meanwhile Mrs. B.
+questions me very kindly, but with the same look of curiosity and
+surprise.
+
+What object has Mrs. Seacole in coming out? This is the purport of her
+questions. And I say, frankly, to be of use somewhere; for other
+considerations I had not, until necessity forced them upon me.
+Willingly, had they accepted me, I would have worked for the wounded,
+in return for bread and water. I fancy Mrs. B---- thought that I
+sought for employment at Scutari, for she said, very kindly--
+
+"Miss Nightingale has the entire management of our hospital staff, but
+I do not think that any vacancy--"
+
+"Excuse me, ma'am," I interrupt her with, "but I am bound for the
+front in a few days;" and my questioner leaves me, more surprised than
+ever. The room I waited in was used as a kitchen. Upon the stoves were
+cans of soup, broth, and arrow-root, while nurses passed in and out
+with noiseless tread and subdued manner. I thought many of them had
+that strange expression of the eyes which those who have gazed long on
+scenes of woe or horror seldom lose.
+
+In half an hour's time I am admitted to Miss Nightingale's presence. A
+slight figure, in the nurses' dress; with a pale, gentle, and withal
+firm face, resting lightly in the palm of one white hand, while the
+other supports the elbow--a position which gives to her countenance a
+keen inquiring expression, which is rather marked. Standing thus in
+repose, and yet keenly observant--the greatest sign of impatience at
+any time[B] a slight, perhaps unwitting motion of the firmly planted
+right foot--was Florence Nightingale--that Englishwoman whose name
+shall never die, but sound like music on the lips of British men until
+the hour of doom.
+
+She has read Dr. F----'s letter, which lies on the table by her side,
+and asks, in her gentle but eminently practical and business-like way,
+"What do you want, Mrs. Seacole--anything that we can do for you? If
+it lies in my power, I shall be very happy."
+
+So I tell her of my dread of the night journey by caicque, and the
+improbability of my finding the "Hollander" in the dark; and, with
+some diffidence, threw myself upon the hospitality of Scutari,
+offering to nurse the sick for the night. Now unfortunately, for many
+reasons, room even for one in Scutari Hospital was at that time no
+easy matter to find; but at last a bed was discovered to be unoccupied
+at the hospital washerwomen's quarters.
+
+My experience of washerwomen, all the world over, is the same--that
+they are kind soft-hearted folks. Possibly the soap-suds they almost
+live in find their way into their hearts and tempers, and soften them.
+This Scutari washerwoman is no exception to the rule, and welcomes me
+most heartily. With her, also, are some invalid nurses; and after they
+have gone to bed, we spend some hours of the night talking over our
+adventures, and giving one another scraps of our respective
+biographies. I hadn't long retired to my couch before I wished most
+heartily that we had continued our chat; for unbidden and most
+unwelcome companions took the washerwoman's place, and persisted not
+only in dividing my bed, but my plump person also. Upon my word, I
+believe the fleas are the only industrious creatures in all Turkey.
+Some of their relatives would seem to have migrated into Russia; for I
+found them in the Crimea equally prosperous and ubiquitous.
+
+In the morning, a breakfast is sent to my mangled remains, and a kind
+message from Mrs. B----, having reference to how I spent the night.
+And, after an interview with some other medical men, whose
+acquaintance I had made in Jamaica, I shake hands with the
+soft-hearted washerwoman, up to her shoulders in soap-suds already,
+and start for the "Hollander."
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[B] Subsequently I saw much of Miss Nightingale, at Balaclava.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    "JEW JOHNNY"--I START FOR BALACLAVA--KINDNESS OF MY OLD
+    FRIENDS--ON BOARD THE "MEDORA"--MY LIFE ON SHORE--THE
+    SICK WHARF.
+
+
+During my stay in Constantinople, I was accustomed to employ, as a
+guide, a young Greek Jew, whose name it is no use my attempting to
+spell, but whom I called by the one common name there--"Johnny."
+Wishing, however, to distinguish my Johnny from the legion of other
+Johnnies, I prefixed the term Jew to his other name, and addressed him
+as Jew Johnny. How he had picked up his knowledge I cannot tell, but
+he could talk a little broken English, besides French, which, had I
+been qualified to criticise it, I should have found, perhaps, as
+broken as his English. He attached himself very closely to me, and
+seemed very anxious to share my fortunes; and after he had pleaded
+hard, many times, to be taken to the Crimea, I gave in, and formally
+hired him. He was the best and faithfullest servant I had in the
+Crimea, and, so far from regretting having picked up Jew Johnny from
+the streets of Pera, I should have been very badly off without him.
+
+More letters come from Mr. Day, giving even worse accounts of the
+state of things at Balaclava; but it is too late for hesitation now.
+My plans are perfected, my purchases made, and passage secured in the
+"Albatross"--a transport laden with cattle and commissariat officers
+for Balaclava. I thought I should never have transported my things
+from the "Hollander" to the "Albatross." It was a terrible day, and
+against the strong current and hurricane of wind Turkish and Greek
+arms seemed of little avail; but at last, after an hour or more of
+terrible anxiety and fear, the "Albatross's" side was reached, and I
+clambered on deck, drenched and wretched.
+
+My companions are cheerful, pleasant fellows, and the short, although
+somewhat hazardous, voyage across the Black Sea is safely made, and
+one morning we become excited at seeing a dark rock-bound coast, on
+which they tell us is Balaclava. As we steam on we see, away to the
+right, clouds of light smoke, which the knowing travellers tell us are
+not altogether natural, but show that Sebastopol is not yet taken,
+until the "Albatross" lays-to within sight of where the "Prince," with
+her ill-fated companions, went down in that fearful November storm,
+four short months ago, while application is made to the harbour-master
+for leave to enter the port of Balaclava. It does not appear the
+simplest favour in the world that we are applying for--licence to
+escape from the hazards of the Black Sea. But at last it comes, and we
+slowly wind through a narrow channel, and emerge into a small
+landlocked basin, so filled with shipping that their masts bend in the
+breeze like a wintry forest. Whatever might have been the case at one
+time, there is order in Balaclava Harbour now, and the "Albatross,"
+with the aid of her boats, moves along to her appointed moorings.
+
+Such a busy scene as that small harbour presented could be rarely met
+with elsewhere. Crowded with shipping, of every size and variety, from
+the noble English steamer to the smallest long-shore craft, while
+between them and the shore passed and repassed innumerable boats;
+men-of-war's boats, trim and stern; merchant-ship's boats, laden to
+the gunwales; Greek and Maltese boats, carrying their owners
+everywhere on their missions of sharp dealing and roguery. Coming from
+the quiet gloomy sea into this little nook of life and bustle the
+transition is very sudden and startling, and gives one enough to think
+about without desiring to go on shore this afternoon.
+
+On the following morning, Mr. Day, apprised of my arrival, came on
+board the "Albatross," and our plans were laid. I must leave the
+"Albatross," of course, and, until we decide upon our future, I had
+better take up my quarters on board the "Medora," which is hired by
+the Government, at a great cost, as an ammunition ship. The proposal
+was not a very agreeable one, but I have no choice left me. Our
+stores, too, had to be landed at once. Warehouses were unheard of in
+Balaclava, and we had to stack them upon the shore and protect them as
+well as we were able.
+
+My first task, directly I had become settled on board the "Medora,"
+was to send word to my friends of my arrival in the Crimea, and
+solicit their aid. I gave a Greek idler one pound to carry a letter
+to the camp of the 97th, while I sent another to Captain Peel, who was
+hard at work battering the defences of Sebastopol about the ears of
+the Russians, from the batteries of the Royal Naval Brigade. I
+addressed others to many of the medical men who had known me in other
+lands; nor did I neglect to send word to my kind patron, Sir John
+Campbell, then commanding a division: and my old friends answered my
+letters most kindly. As the various officers came down on duty or
+business to Balaclava they did not fail to find me out, and welcome me
+to the Crimea, while Captain Peel and Sir J. Campbell sent the kindest
+messages; and when they saw me, promised me every assistance, the
+General adding that he is glad to see me where there is so much to do.
+Among others, poor H. Vicars, whose kind face had so often lighted up
+my old house in Kingston, came to take me by the hand in this
+out-of-the-way corner of the world. I never felt so sure of the
+success of any step as I did of this, before I had been a week in
+Balaclava. But I had plenty of difficulties to contend with on every
+side.
+
+Among the first, one of the ships, in which were many of our stores,
+the "Nonpareil," was ordered out of the harbour before we could land
+them all, and there was more than a probability that she would carry
+back to Constantinople many of the things we had most pressing
+occasion for. It became necessary, therefore, that some one should see
+Admiral Boxer, and try to interest that mild-spoken and affable
+officer in our favour. When I mentioned it to Mr. Day, he did not seem
+inclined to undertake the mission, and nothing was left but for me to
+face the terrible Port-Admiral. Fortunately, Captain H----, of the
+"Diamond," was inclined to be my friend, and, not a little amused
+with his mission, carried me right off to the Admiral. I confess that
+I was as nearly frightened out of my wits as I ever have been, for the
+Admiral's kind heart beat under a decidedly rough husk; and when
+Captain H---- told him that I wanted his permission for the
+"Nonpareil" to remain in the harbour for a few days, as there were
+stores on board, he let fly enough hard words to frighten any woman.
+But when I spoke up, and told him that I had known his son in the West
+Indies, he relented, and granted my petition. But it was not without
+more hard words, and much grumbling that a parcel of women should be
+coming out to a place where they were not wanted.
+
+Now, the Admiral did not repeat this remark a few days afterwards,
+when he saw me attending the sick and wounded upon the sick wharf.
+
+I remained six weeks in Balaclava, spending my days on shore, and my
+nights on board ship. Over our stores, stacked on the shore, a few
+sheets of rough tarpaulin were suspended; and beneath these--my sole
+protection against the Crimean rain and wind--I spent some portion of
+each day, receiving visitors and selling stores.
+
+But my chief occupation, and one with which I never allowed any
+business to interfere, was helping the doctors to transfer the sick
+and wounded from the mules and ambulances into the transports that had
+to carry them to the hospitals of Scutari and Buyukdere. I did not
+forget the main object of my journey, to which I would have devoted
+myself exclusively had I been allowed; and very familiar did I become
+before long with the sick wharf of Balaclava. My acquaintance with it
+began very shortly after I had reached Balaclava. The very first day
+that I approached the wharf, a party of sick and wounded had just
+arrived. Here was work for me, I felt sure. With so many patients, the
+doctors must be glad of all the hands they could get. Indeed, so
+strong was the old impulse within me, that I waited for no permission,
+but seeing a poor artilleryman stretched upon a pallet, groaning
+heavily, I ran up to him at once, and eased the stiff dressings.
+Lightly my practised fingers ran over the familiar work, and well was
+I rewarded when the poor fellow's groans subsided into a restless
+uneasy mutter. God help him! He had been hit in the forehead, and I
+think his sight was gone. I stooped down, and raised some tea to his
+baked lips (here and there upon the wharf were rows of little
+pannikins containing this beverage). Then his hand touched mine, and
+rested there, and I heard him mutter indistinctly, as though the
+discovery had arrested his wandering senses--
+
+"Ha! this is surely a woman's hand."
+
+I couldn't say much, but I tried to whisper something about hope and
+trust in God; but all the while I think his thoughts were running on
+this strange discovery. Perhaps I had brought to his poor mind
+memories of his home, and the loving ones there, who would ask no
+greater favour than the privilege of helping him thus; for he
+continued to hold my hand in his feeble grasp, and whisper "God bless
+you, _woman_--whoever you are, God bless you!"--over and over again.
+
+I do not think that the surgeons noticed me at first, although, as
+this was my introduction to Balaclava, I had not neglected my personal
+appearance, and wore my favourite yellow dress, and blue bonnet, with
+the red ribbons; but I noticed one coming to me, who, I think, would
+have laughed very merrily had it not been for the poor fellow at my
+feet. As it was, he came forward, and shook hands very kindly, saying,
+"How do you do, ma'am? Much obliged to you for looking after my poor
+fellow; very glad to see you here." And glad they always were, the
+kind-hearted doctors, to let me help them look after the sick and
+wounded sufferers brought to that fearful wharf.
+
+I wonder if I can ever forget the scenes I witnessed there? Oh! they
+were heartrending. I declare that I saw rough bearded men stand by and
+cry like the softest-hearted women at the sights of suffering they
+saw; while some who scorned comfort for themselves, would fidget about
+for hours before the long trains of mules and ambulances came in,
+nervous lest the most trifling thing that could minister to the
+sufferers' comfort should be neglected. I have often heard men talk
+and preach very learnedly and conclusively about the great wickedness
+and selfishness of the human heart; I used to wonder whether they
+would have modified those opinions if they had been my companions for
+one day of the six weeks I spent upon that wharf, and seen but one
+day's experience of the Christian sympathy and brotherly love shown by
+the strong to the weak. The task was a trying one, and familiarity,
+you might think, would have worn down their keener feelings of pity
+and sympathy; but it was not so.
+
+I was in the midst of my sad work one day when the Admiral came up,
+and stood looking on. He vouchsafed no word nor look of recognition in
+answer to my salute, but stood silently by, his hands behind his back,
+watching the sick being lifted into the boats. You might have thought
+that he had little feeling, so stern and expressionless was his face;
+but once, when they raised a sufferer somewhat awkwardly, and he
+groaned deeply, that rough man broke out all at once with an oath,
+that was strangely like a prayer, and bade the men, for God's sake,
+take more care. And, coming up to me, he clapped me on the shoulder,
+saying, "I am glad to see you here, old lady, among these poor
+fellows;" while, I am most strangely deceived if I did not see a
+tear-drop gathering in his eye. It was on this same day, I think, that
+bending down over a poor fellow whose senses had quite gone, and, I
+fear me, would never return to him in this world, he took me for his
+wife, and calling me "Mary, Mary," many times, asked me how it was he
+had got home so quickly, and why he did not see the children; and said
+he felt sure he should soon get better now. Poor fellow! I could not
+undeceive him. I think the fancy happily caused by the touch of a
+woman's hand soothed his dying hour; for I do not fancy he could have
+lived to reach Scutari. I never knew it for certain, but I always felt
+sure that he would never wake from that dream of home in this world.
+
+And here, lest the reader should consider that I am speaking too
+highly of my own actions, I must have recourse to a plan which I shall
+frequently adopt in the following pages, and let another voice speak
+for me in the kind letter received long after Balaclava had been left
+to its old masters, by one who had not forgotten his old companion on
+the sick-wharf. The writer, Major (then Captain) R----, had charge of
+the wharf while I was there.
+
+    "Glasgow, Sept. 1856.
+
+    "Dear Mrs. Seacole,--I am very sorry to hear that you
+    have been unfortunate in business; but I am glad to hear
+    that you have found friends in Lord R---- and others,
+    who are ready to help you. No one knows better than I do
+    how much you did to help poor sick and wounded soldiers;
+    and I feel sure you will find in your day of trouble
+    that they have not forgotten it."
+
+Major R---- was a brave and experienced officer, but the scenes on the
+sick-wharf unmanned him often. I have known him nervously restless if
+the people were behindhand, even for a few minutes, in their
+preparations for the wounded. But in this feeling all shared alike.
+Only women could have done more than they did who attended to this
+melancholy duty; and they, not because their hearts could be softer,
+but because their hands are moulded for this work.
+
+But it must not be supposed that we had no cheerful scenes upon the
+sick-wharf. Sometimes a light-hearted fellow--generally a
+sailor--would forget his pain, and do his best to keep the rest in
+good spirits. Once I heard my name eagerly pronounced, and turning
+round, recognised a sailor whom I remembered as one of the crew of the
+"Alarm," stationed at Kingston, a few years back.
+
+"Why, as I live, if this ain't Aunty Seacole, of Jamaica! Shiver all
+that's left of my poor timbers"--and I saw that the left leg was
+gone--"if this ain't a rum go, mates!"
+
+"Ah! my man, I'm sorry to see you in this sad plight."
+
+"Never fear for me, Aunty Seacole; I'll make the best of the leg the
+Rooshians have left me. I'll get at them soon again, never fear. You
+don't think, messmates"--he never left his wounded comrades
+alone--"that they'll think less of us at home for coming back with a
+limb or so short?"
+
+"You bear your troubles well, my son."
+
+"Eh! do I, Aunty?" and he seemed surprised. "Why, look'ye, when I've
+seen so many pretty fellows knocked off the ship's roll altogether,
+don't you think I ought to be thankful if I can answer the bo'swain's
+call anyhow?"
+
+And this was the sailors' philosophy always. And this brave fellow,
+after he had sipped some lemonade, and laid down, when he heard the
+men groaning, raised his head and comforted them in the same strain
+again; and, it may seem strange, but it quieted them.
+
+I used to make sponge-cakes on board the "Medora," with eggs brought
+from Constantinople. Only the other day, Captain S----, who had charge
+of the "Medora," reminded me of them. These, with some lemonade, were
+all the doctors would allow me to give to the wounded. They all liked
+the cake, poor fellows, better than anything else: perhaps because it
+tasted of "home."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    ALARMS IN THE HARBOUR--GETTING THE STORES ON
+    SHORE--ROBBERY BY NIGHT AND DAY--THE PREDATORY TRIBES OF
+    BALACLAVA--ACTIVITY OF THE AUTHORITIES--WE OBTAIN LEAVE
+    TO ERECT OUR STORE, AND FIX UPON SPRING HILL AS ITS
+    SITE--THE TURKISH PACHA--THE FLOOD--OUR CARPENTERS--I
+    BECOME AN ENGLISH SCHOOLMISTRESS ABROAD.
+
+
+My life in Balaclava could not but be a rough one. The exposure by day
+was enough to try any woman's strength; and at night one was not
+always certain of repose. Nor was it the easiest thing to clamber up
+the steep sides of the "Medora;" and more than once I narrowly escaped
+a sousing in the harbour. Why it should be so difficult to climb a
+ship's side, when a few more staves in the ladder, and those a little
+broader, would make it so easy, I have never been able to guess. And
+once on board the "Medora," my berth would not altogether have suited
+a delicate female with weak nerves. It was an ammunition ship, and we
+slept over barrels of gunpowder and tons of cartridges, with the by no
+means impossible contingency of their prematurely igniting, and giving
+us no time to say our prayers before launching us into eternity. Great
+care was enjoined, and at eight o'clock every evening Captain S----
+would come down, and order all lights out for the night. But I used to
+put my lantern into a deep basin, behind some boxes, and so evaded the
+regulation. I felt rather ashamed of this breach of discipline one
+night, when another ammunition ship caught fire in the crowded
+harbour, and threatened us all with speedy destruction. We all knew,
+if they failed in extinguishing the fire pretty quickly, what our
+chances of life were worth, and I think the bravest drew his breath
+heavily at the thought of our danger. Fortunately, they succeeded in
+extinguishing the firebrand before any mischief was done; but I do not
+think the crew of the "Medora" slept very comfortably that night. It
+was said that the Russians had employed an incendiary; but it would
+have been strange if in that densely crowded harbour some accidents
+had not happened without their agency.
+
+Harassing work, indeed, was the getting our stores on shore, with the
+aid of the Greek and Maltese boatmen, whose profession is thievery.
+Not only did they demand exorbitant sums for the carriage, but they
+contrived to rob us by the way in the most ingenious manner. Thus many
+things of value were lost in the little journey from the "Albatross"
+and "Nonpareil" to the shore, which had made the long voyage from
+England safely. Keep as sharp a look out as I might, some package or
+box would be tipped overboard by the sudden swaying of the boat, or
+passing by of one of the boatmen--of course, accidentally--and no
+words could induce the rascals, in their feigned ignorance of my
+language, to stop; and, looking back at the helpless waif, it was not
+altogether consolatory to see another boat dart from between some
+shipping, where it had been waiting, as accidentally, ready to pounce
+upon any such wind or waterfalls.
+
+Still more harassing work was it to keep the things together on the
+shore: often in the open light of day, while I sat there (after my
+duties on the sick-wharf were over) selling stores, or administering
+medicine to the men of the Land Transport and Army Works Corps, and
+others, who soon found out my skill, valuable things would be
+abstracted; while there was no limit to the depredations by night. Of
+course we hired men to watch; but our choice of servants was very
+limited, and very often those we employed not only shut their eyes to
+the plunder of their companions, but helped themselves freely. The
+adage, "set a thief to catch a thief," answered very badly in
+Balaclava.
+
+Sometimes Jew Johnny would volunteer to watch for the night; and glad
+I was when I knew that the honest lynx-eyed fellow was there. One
+night he caught a great-limbed Turk making off with a firkin of butter
+and some other things. The fellow broke away from Johnny's grasp with
+the butter, but the lad marked him down to his wretched den, behind
+the engineers' quarters, and, on the following morning, quietly
+introduced me to the lazy culprit, who was making up for the partial
+loss of his night's rest among as evil-looking a set of comrades as I
+have ever seen. There was a great row, and much indignation shown at
+the purpose of my visit; but I considered myself justified in calling
+in the aid of one of the Provost marshal's officers, and, in the
+presence of this most invaluable official, a confession was soon made.
+Beneath the fellow's dirty bed, the butter was found buried; and, in
+its company, a two-dozen case of sherry, which the rogue had, in
+flagrant defiance of the Prophet's injunction, stolen for his own
+private drinking, a few nights previously.
+
+The thievery in this little out-of-the way port was something
+marvellous; and the skill and ingenuity of the operators would have
+reflected credit upon the _élite_ of their profession practising in
+the most civilized city of Europe. Nor was the thievery confined
+altogether to the professionals, who had crowded to this scene of
+action from the cities and islands of the Mediterranean. They robbed
+us, the Turks, and one another; but a stronger hand was sometimes laid
+on them. The Turk, however, was sure to be the victim, let who might
+be the oppressor.
+
+In this predatory warfare, as in more honourable service, the Zouaves
+particularly distinguished themselves. These undoubtedly gallant
+little fellows, always restless for action, of some sort, would, when
+the luxury of a brash with the Russians was occasionally denied them,
+come down to Balaclava, in search of opportunities of waging war
+against society at large. Their complete and utter absence of
+conscientious scruples as to the rights of property was most amusing.
+To see a Zouave gravely cheat a Turk, or trip up a Greek
+street-merchant, or Maltese fruit-seller, and scud away with the
+spoil, cleverly stowed in his roomy red pantaloons, was an operation,
+for its coolness, expedition, and perfectness, well worth seeing. And,
+to a great extent, they escaped scatheless, for the English Provost
+marshal's department was rather chary of interfering with the
+eccentricities of our gallant allies; while if the French had taken
+close cognizance of the Zouaves' amusements out of school, one-half of
+the regiments would have been always engaged punishing the other half.
+
+The poor Turk! it is lamentable to think how he was robbed, abused,
+and bullied by his friends. Why didn't he show a little pluck? There
+wasn't a rough sailor, or shrewd boy--the English boy, in all his
+impudence and prejudice, flourished in Balaclava--who would not gladly
+have patted him upon the back if he would but have held up his head,
+and shown ever so little spirit. But the Englishman cannot understand
+a coward--will scarcely take the trouble to pity him; and even the
+craven Greek could lord it over the degenerate descendants of the
+fierce Arabs, who--so they told me on the spot--had wrested
+Constantinople from the Christians, in those old times of which I know
+so little. Very often an injured Turk would run up to where I sat, and
+stand there, wildly telegraphing his complaints against some
+villainous-looking Greek, or Italian, whom a stout English lad would
+have shaken out of his dirty skin in five minutes.
+
+Once, however, I saw the tables turned. As the anecdote will help to
+illustrate the relative positions of the predatory tribes of
+Balaclava, I will narrate it. Hearing one morning a louder hubbub than
+was usual upon the completion of a bargain, and the inevitable
+quarrelling that always followed, I went up to where I saw an excited
+crowd collected around a Turk, in whose hands a Greek was struggling
+vainly. This Greek had, it seemed, robbed his enemy, but the Turk was
+master this time, and had, in order to force from the robber a
+confession of the place where the stolen things were deposited (like
+dogs, as they were, these fellows were fond of burying their plunder),
+resorted to torture. This was effected most ingeniously and simply by
+means of some packthread, which, bound round the Greek's two thumbs,
+was tightened on the tourniquet principle, until the pain elicited a
+confession. But the Turk, stimulated to retaliation by his triumph,
+bagged the Greek's basket, which contained amongst other things two
+watches, which their present owner had no doubt stolen. Driven to the
+most ludicrous show of despair, the Greek was about to attempt another
+desperate struggle for the recovery of his goods, when two Zouaves
+elbowed their small persons upon the crowded stage, and were eagerly
+referred to by all the parties concerned in the squabble. How they
+contrived it, I cannot say, so prompt were their movements; but, in a
+very few minutes, the watches were in their possession, and going much
+faster than was agreeable either to Turk or Greek, who both combined
+to arrest this new movement, and thereby added a sharp thrashing to
+their other injuries. The Zouaves effected their escape safely, while
+the Greek, with a despair that had in it an equal share of the
+ludicrous and the tragic, threw himself upon the dusty ground, and
+tore his thin hair out by handfuls. I believe that the poor wretch,
+whom we could not help pitying, journeyed to Kamiesch, to discover his
+oppressors; but I fear he didn't gain much information there.
+
+Had it not been for the unremitting activity of the authorities, no
+life would have been safe in Balaclava, with its population of
+villains of every nation. As it was, murder was sometimes added to
+robbery, and many of the rascals themselves died suspicious deaths,
+with the particulars of which the authorities did not trouble
+themselves. But the officials worked hard, both in the harbour and on
+shore, to keep order; few men could have worked harder. I often saw
+the old grey-haired Admiral about before the sun had fairly shown
+itself; and those of his subordinates must have been somewhat heavy
+sleepers who could play the sluggard then.
+
+At length the necessary preparations to establish our store were made.
+We hit upon a spot about two miles from Balaclava, in advance of
+Kadikoi, close to where the railway engines were stationed, and within
+a mile of head-quarters. Leave having been obtained to erect buildings
+here, we set to work briskly, and soon altered the appearance of
+Spring Hill--so we christened our new home. Sometimes on horseback,
+sometimes getting a lift on the commissariat carts, and occasionally
+on the ammunition railway-waggons, I managed to visit Spring Hill
+daily, and very soon fitted up a shed sufficiently large to take up my
+abode in. But the difficulty of building our store was immense. To
+obtain material was next to impossible; but that collected (not a
+little was, by leave of the Admiral, gleaned from the floating rubbish
+in the harbour), to find workmen to make use of it was still more
+difficult. I spent days going round the shipping, offering great
+wages, even, for an invalid able to handle saw and hammer, however
+roughly, and many a long ride through the camps did I take on the same
+errand. At length, by dint of hard canvassing, we obtained the aid of
+two English sailors, whom I nicknamed "Big and Little Chips," and some
+Turks, and set to work in good earnest.
+
+I procured the Turks from the Pacha who commanded the division
+encamped in the neighbourhood of Spring Hill. It was decided that we
+should apply to him for help, and accordingly I became ambassadress on
+this delicate mission, and rode over to the Pacha's quarters, Jew
+Johnny attending me as interpreter. I was received by the Pacha with
+considerable kindness and no trifling amount of formality, and after
+taking coffee I proceeded, through Jew Johnny, to explain the object
+of my visit, while his Excellency, a tall man, with a dark pleasing
+face, smoked gravely, and took my request into his gracious
+consideration.
+
+On the following day came the answer to my request, in the persons of
+two curious Turkish carpenters, who were placed at our orders. After a
+little while, too, a Turkish officer, whom I christened Captain Ali
+Baba, took so great an interest in our labours that he would work like
+any carpenter, and with a delight and zeal that were astonishing. To
+see him fall back, and look smilingly at every piece of his
+workmanship, was a sight to restore the most severely tried temper. I
+really think that the good-hearted fellow thought it splendid fun, and
+never wearied of it. But for him I do not know how we should have
+managed with our other Turkish "chips"--chips of the true old Turkish
+block they were--deliberate, slow, and indolent, breaking off into
+endless interruptions for the sacred duties of eating and praying, and
+getting into out-of-the-way corners at all times of the day to smoke
+themselves to sleep.
+
+In the midst of our work a calamity occurred, which was very nearly
+becoming a catastrophe. By the giving way of a dam, after some heavy
+rains, the little stream which threaded its silvery way past Spring
+Hill swelled without any warning into a torrent, which, sweeping
+through my temporary hut, very nearly carried us all away, and
+destroyed stores of between one and two hundred pounds in value. This
+calamity might have had a tragical issue for me, for seeing a little
+box which contained some things, valuable as relics of the past, being
+carried away, I plunged in after it, and losing my balance, was rolled
+over and over by the stream, and with some difficulty reached the
+shore. Some of Lord Raglan's staff passing our wreck on the following
+day, made inquiries respecting the loss we had sustained, and a
+messenger was sent from head-quarters, who made many purchases, in
+token of their sympathy.
+
+My visit to the Turkish Pacha laid the foundation of a lasting
+friendship. He soon found his way to Spring Hill, and before long
+became one of my best customers and most frequent visitors. It was
+astonishing to note how completely, now that he was in the land of the
+Giaours, he adapted himself to the tastes and habits of the infidels.
+Like a Scotch Presbyterian, on the Continent for a holiday, he threw
+aside all the prejudices of his education, and drank bottled beer,
+sherry, and champagne with an appreciation of their qualities that no
+thirsty-souled Christian could have expressed more gratefully. He was
+very affable with us all, and would sometimes keep Jew Johnny away
+from his work for hours, chatting with us or the English officers who
+would lounge into our as yet unfinished store. Sometimes he would come
+down to breakfast, and spend the greater part of the day at Spring
+Hill. Indeed, the wits of Spring Hill used to laugh, and say that the
+crafty Pacha was throwing his pocket-handkerchief at Madame Seacole,
+widow; but as the honest fellow candidly confessed he had three wives
+already at home, I acquit him of any desire to add to their number.
+
+The Pacha's great ambition was to be familiar with the English
+language, and at last nothing would do but he must take lessons of me.
+So he would come down, and sitting in my store, with a Turk or so at
+his feet, to attend to his most important pipe, by inserting little
+red-hot pieces of charcoal at intervals, would try hard to sow a few
+English sentences in his treacherous memory. He never got beyond half
+a dozen; and I think if we had continued in the relation of pupil and
+mistress until now, the number would not have been increased greatly.
+"Madame Seacole," "Gentlemen, good morning," and "More champagne,"
+with each syllable much dwelt upon, were his favourite sentences. It
+was capital fun to hear him, when I was called away suddenly to attend
+to a customer, or to give a sick man medicine, repeating gravely the
+sentence we had been studying, until I passed him, and started him
+with another.
+
+Very frequently he would compliment me by ordering his band down to
+Spring Hill for my amusement. They played excellently well, and I used
+to think that I preferred their music to that of the French and
+English regimental bands. I laughed heartily one day, when, in
+compliance with the kind-hearted Anglo-Turkish Pacha's orders, they
+came out with a grand new tune, in which I with difficulty recognised
+a very distant resemblance to "God save the Queen."
+
+Altogether he was a capital neighbour, and gave such strict orders to
+his men to respect our property that we rarely lost anything. On the
+whole, the Turks were the most honest of the nations there (I except
+the English and the Sardinians), and the most tractable. But the
+Greeks hated them, and showed their hate in every way. In bringing up
+things for the Pacha's use they would let the mules down, and smash
+their loads most relentlessly. Now and then they suffered, as was the
+case one day when I passed through the camp and saw my friend
+superintending the correction of a Greek who was being bastinadoed. It
+seemed a painful punishment.
+
+I was sorry, therefore, when my friend's division was ordered to
+Kamara, and we lost our neighbours. But my pupil did not forget his
+schoolmistress. A few days after they had left the neighbourhood of
+Spring Hill came a messenger, with a present of lambs, poultry, and
+eggs, and a letter, which I could not decipher, as many of the
+interpreters could speak English far better than they could write it.
+But we discovered that the letter contained an invitation, to Mr. Day
+and myself, to go over to Kamara, and select from the spoil of the
+village anything that might be useful in our new buildings. And a few
+days later came over a large araba, drawn by four mules, and laden
+with a pair of glass-doors, and some window-frames, which the
+thoughtful kind Pacha had judged--and judged rightly--would be a very
+acceptable present. And very often the good-natured fellow would ride
+over from Kamara, and resume his acquaintance with myself and my
+champagne, and practise his English sentences.
+
+We felt the loss of our Turkish neighbours in more ways than one. The
+neighbourhood, after their departure, was left lonely and unprotected,
+and it was not until a division of the Land Transport Corps came and
+took up their quarters near us, that I felt at all secure of personal
+safety. Mr. Day rarely returned to Spring Hill until nightfall
+relieved him from his many duties, and I depended chiefly upon two
+sailors, both of questionable character, two black servants, Jew
+Johnny, and my own reputation for determination and courage--a poor
+delusion, which I took care to heighten by the judicious display of a
+double-barrelled pistol, lent me for the purpose by Mr. Day, and which
+I couldn't have loaded to save my life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    THE BRITISH HOTEL--DOMESTIC DIFFICULTIES--OUR
+    ENEMIES--THE RUSSIAN RATS--ADVENTURES IN SEARCH OF A
+    CAT--LIGHT-FINGERED ZOUAVES--CRIMEAN THIEVES--POWDERING
+    A HORSE.
+
+
+Summer was fairly advanced before the British Hotel was anything like
+finished; indeed, it never was completed, and when we left the Hill, a
+year later, it still wanted shutters. But long before that time Spring
+Hill had gained a great reputation. Of course, I have nothing to do
+with what occurred in the camp, although I could not help hearing a
+great deal about it. Mismanagement and privation there might have
+been, but my business was to make things right in my sphere, and
+whatever confusion, and disorder existed elsewhere, comfort and order
+were always to be found at Spring Hill. When there was no sun
+elsewhere, some few gleams--so its grateful visitors said--always
+seemed to have stayed behind, to cheer the weary soldiers that
+gathered in the British Hotel. And, perhaps, as my kind friend _Punch_
+said, after all these things had become pleasant memories of the past.
+
+    "The cold without gave a zest, no doubt,
+    To the welcome warmth within;
+    But her smile, good old soul, lent heat to the coal,
+    And power to the pannikin."
+
+Let me, in a few words, describe the British Hotel. It was
+acknowledged by all to be the most complete thing there. It cost no
+less than £800. The buildings and yards took up at least an acre of
+ground, and were as perfect as we could make them. The hotel and
+storehouse consisted of a long iron room, with counters, closets, and
+shelves; above it was another low room, used by us for storing our
+goods, and above this floated a large union-jack. Attached to this
+building was a little kitchen, not unlike a ship's caboose--all stoves
+and shelves. In addition to the iron house were two wooden houses,
+with sleeping apartments for myself and Mr. Day, out-houses for our
+servants, a canteen for the soldiery, and a large enclosed yard for
+our stock, full of stables, low huts, and sties. Everything, although
+rough and unpolished, was comfortable and warm; and there was a
+completeness about the whole which won general admiration. The reader
+may judge of the manner in which we had stocked the interior of our
+store from the remark, often repeated by the officers, that you might
+get everything at Mother Seacole's, from an anchor down to a needle.
+
+In addition, we had for our transport service four carts, and as many
+horses and mules as could be kept from the thieves. To reckon upon
+being in possession of these, at any future time, was impossible; we
+have more than once seen a fair stud stabled at night-time, and on the
+following morning been compelled to borrow cattle from the Land
+Transport camp, to fetch our things up from Balaclava.
+
+But it must not be supposed that my domestic difficulties came to an
+end with the completion of the hotel. True, I was in a better position
+to bear the Crimean cold and rain, but my other foes were as busy as
+ever they had been on the beach at Balaclava. Thieves, biped and
+quadruped, human and animal, troubled me more than ever; and perhaps
+the most difficult to deal with were the least dangerous. The Crimean
+rats, for instance, who had the appetites of London aldermen, and were
+as little dainty as hungry schoolboys. Whether they had left
+Sebastopol, guided by the instinct which leads their kindred in other
+parts of the world to forsake sinking ships, or because the garrison
+rations offended their palates, or whether they had patriotically
+emigrated, to make war against the English larders, I do not pretend
+to guess; but, whatever was their motive, it drew them in great
+abundance to Spring Hill. They occasionally did us damage, in a single
+night, to the tune of two or three pounds--wasting what they could not
+devour. You could keep nothing sacred from their strong teeth. When
+hard pressed they more than once attacked the live sheep; and at last
+they went so far as to nibble one of our black cooks, Francis, who
+slept among the flour barrels. On the following morning he came to me,
+his eyes rolling angrily, and his white teeth gleaming, to show me a
+mangled finger, which they had bitten, and ask me to dress it. He made
+a great fuss; and a few mornings later he came in a violent passion
+this time, and gave me instant notice to quit my service, although we
+were paying him two pounds a week, with board and rations. This time
+the rats had, it appeared, been bolder, and attacked his head, in a
+spot where its natural armour, the wool, was thinnest, and the silly
+fellow had a notion that the souls of the slain Russian soldiers had
+entered the bodies of the rats, and made vengeful war upon their late
+enemies. Driven to such an extremity, I made up my mind to scour the
+camp, in search of a cat, and, after a long day's hunt, I came to the
+conclusion that the tale of Whittington was by no means an improbable
+one. Indeed, had a brisk young fellow with a cat, of even ordinary
+skill in its profession, made their appearance at Spring Hill, I would
+gladly have put them in the way--of laying the foundation, at
+least--of a fortune. At last I found a benefactor, in the Guards'
+camp, in Colonel D----, of the Coldstreams, who kindly promised me a
+great pet, well known in the camp, and perhaps by some who may read
+these pages, by the name of Pinkie. Pinkie was then helping a brother
+officer to clear his hut, but on the following day a Guardsman brought
+the noble fellow down. He lived in clover for a few days, but he had
+an English cat-like attachment for his old house, and despite the
+abundance of game, Pinkie soon stole away to his old master's
+quarters, three miles off. More than once the men brought him back to
+me, but the attractions of Spring Hill were never strong enough to
+detain him long with me.
+
+From the human thieves that surrounded Spring Hill I had to stand as
+sharp a siege as the Russians had in that poor city against which we
+heard the guns thundering daily; while the most cunning and desperate
+sorties were often made upon the most exposed parts of my defences,
+and sometimes with success. Scores of the keenest eyes and hundreds of
+the sharpest fingers in the world were always ready to take advantage
+of the least oversight. I had to keep two boys, whose chief occupation
+was to watch the officers' horses, tied up to the doorposts of the
+British Hotel. Before I adopted this safeguard, more than one officer
+would leave his horse for a few minutes, and on his return find it
+gone to the neighbourhood of the Naval Brigade, or the horse-fair at
+Kamiesch. My old friends, the Zouaves, soon found me out at Spring
+Hill, and the wiry, light-fingered, fighting-loving gentry spent much
+of their leisure there. Those confounded trowsers of theirs offered
+conveniences of stowage-room which they made rare use of. Nothing was
+too small, and few things too unwieldy, to ride in them; like the
+pockets of clown in a pantomime, they could accommodate a well-grown
+baby or a pound of sausages equally well. I have a firm conviction
+that they stuffed turkeys, geese, and fowls into them, and I
+positively know that my only respectable teapot travelled off in the
+same conveyance, while I detected one little fellow, who had tied them
+down tight at his ankles, stowing away some pounds of tea and coffee
+mixed. Some officers, who were present, cut the cords, and, holding up
+the little scamp by the neck, shook his trowsers empty amid shouts of
+laughter.
+
+Our live stock, from the horses and mules down to the geese and fowls,
+suffered terribly. Although we kept a sharp look-out by day, and paid
+a man five shillings a night as watchman, our losses were very great.
+During the time we were in the Crimea we lost over a score of horses,
+four mules, eighty goats, many sheep, pigs, and poultry, by thieving
+alone. We missed in a single night forty goats and seven sheep, and on
+Mr. Day's going to head-quarters with intelligence of the disaster,
+they told him that Lord Raglan had recently received forty sheep from
+Asia, all of which had disappeared in the same manner. The geese,
+turkeys, and fowls vanished by scores. We found out afterwards that
+the watchman paid to guard the sheep, used to kill a few occasionally.
+As he represented them to have died a natural death during the night,
+he got permission to bury them, instead of which he sold them. King
+Frost claimed his share of our stock too, and on one December night,
+of the winter of 1855, killed no less than forty sheep. It is all very
+well to smile at these things now, but at the time they were
+heartrending enough, and helped, if they did not cause, the ruin which
+eventually overtook the firm of Seacole and Day. The determination and
+zeal which besiegers and besieged showed with respect to a poor pig,
+which was quietly and unconsciously fattening in its sty, are worthy
+of record.
+
+Fresh pork, in the spring of 1855, was certainly one of those luxuries
+not easily obtainable in that part of the Crimea to which the British
+army was confined, and when it became known that Mother Seacole had
+purchased a promising young porker from one of the ships in Balaclava,
+and that, brave woman! she had formed the courageous resolution of
+fattening it for her favourites, the excitement among the frequenters
+of Spring Hill was very great. I could laugh heartily now, when I
+think of the amount of persuasion and courting I stood out for before
+I bound myself how its four legs were to be disposed of. I learnt more
+at that time of the trials and privileges of authority than I am ever
+likely to experience again. Upon my word, I think if the poor thing
+had possessed as many legs as my editor tells me somebody called the
+Hydra (with whom my readers are perhaps more familiar than I am) had
+heads, I should have found candidates for them. As it was, the contest
+for those I had to bestow was very keen, and the lucky individuals who
+were favoured by me looked after their interests most carefully. One
+of them, to render mistake or misunderstanding impossible, entered my
+promise in my day-book. The reader will perhaps smile at the following
+important memorandum in the gallant officer's writing:--
+
+   "Memorandum that Mrs. Seacole did this day, in the
+   presence of Major A---- and Lieutenant W----, promise
+   Captain H----, R.A., a leg of _the_ pig."
+
+Now it was well known that many greedy eyes and fingers were directed
+towards the plump fellow, and considerable interest was manifested in
+the result of the struggle, "Mrs. Seacole _versus_ Thievery." I think
+they had some confidence in me, and that I was the favourite; but
+there was a large field against me, which found its backers also; and
+many a bet was laughingly laid on the ultimate fate of the unconscious
+porker.
+
+I baffled many a knavish trick to gain possession of the fine fellow;
+but, after all, I lost him in the middle of the day, when I thought
+the boldest rogues would not have run the risk. The shouts and
+laughter of some officers who were riding down from the front first
+informed me of my loss. Up they rode, calling out--"Mother Seacole!
+old lady! quick!--_the_ pig's gone!"
+
+I rushed out, injured woman that I was, and saw it all at a glance.
+But that my straw wide-awake was in the way, I could have torn my hair
+in my vexation. I rushed to the sty, found the nest warm, and with
+prompt decision prepared for speedy pursuit. Back I came to the
+horsemen, calling out--"Off with you, my sons!--they can't have got
+very far away yet. Do your best to save my bacon!"
+
+Delighted with the fun, the horsemen dispersed, laughing and
+shouting--"Stole away! hark away!" while I ran indoors, turned out all
+my available body-guard, and started in pursuit also. Not half a mile
+off we soon saw a horseman wave his cap; and starting off into a run,
+came to a little hollow, where the poor panting animal and two Greek
+thieves had been run down. The Provost-marshal took the latter in hand
+willingly, and Piggy was brought home in triumph. But those who had
+pork expectancies, hearing of the adventure, grew so seriously alarmed
+at the narrow escape, that they petitioned me to run so desperate a
+hazard no longer; and the poor thing was killed on the following day,
+and distributed according to promise. A certain portion was reserved
+for sausages, which, fried with mashed potatoes, were quite the rage
+at the British Hotel for some days. Some pork was also sent to
+head-quarters, with an account of the dangers we ran from thieves. It
+drew the following kind acknowledgment from General B----:
+
+    "Head-Quarters.
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--I am very much obliged to you
+    indeed for your pork. I have spoken to Colonel P---- as
+    to the police of your neighbourhood, and he will see
+    what arrangement can be made for the general protection
+    of that line of road. When the high-road is finished,
+    you will be better off. Let me know at the time of any
+    depredations that are committed, and we will try and
+    protect you.--I am, faithfully yours,
+
+        "M. L. B----."
+
+For the truth was--although I can laugh at my fears now--I was often
+most horribly frightened at Spring Hill; and there was cause for it
+too. My washerwoman, who, with her family, lived not half a mile from
+us, was with me one day, and carried off some things for the wash. On
+the following morning I was horrified to learn that she, her father,
+husband, and children--in all, seven--had been most foully murdered
+during the night: only one of the whole family recovered from her
+wounds, and lived to tell the tale. It created a great sensation at
+the time, and caused me to pass many a sleepless night, for the
+murderers were never discovered.
+
+Whilst I am upon the subject of Crimean thievery, I may as well
+exhaust it without paying any regard to the chronological order of my
+reminiscences. I have before mentioned what I suffered from the
+French. One day I caught one of our allies in my kitchen, robbing me
+in the most ungrateful manner. He had met with an accident near Spring
+Hill (I believe he belonged to a French regiment lent to assist the
+English in road-making), and had been doctored by me; and now I found
+him filling his pockets, before taking "French" leave of us. My black
+man, Francis, pulled from his pockets a yet warm fowl, and other
+provisions. We kicked him off the premises, and he found refuge with
+some men of the Army Works Corps, who pitied him and gave him shelter.
+He woke them in the middle of the night, laying hands rather clumsily
+on everything that was removeable; and in the morning they brought him
+to me, to ask what they should do with him. Unluckily for him, a
+French officer of rank happened to be in the store, who, on hearing
+our tale, packed him off to his regiment. I gathered from the
+expression of the officer's face, and the dread legible upon the
+culprit's, that it might be some considerable time before his itch for
+breaking the eighth commandment could be again indulged in.
+
+The trouble I underwent respecting a useful black mare, for which Mr.
+Day had given thirty guineas, and which carried me beautifully, was
+immense. Before it had been many weeks in our store it was
+gone--whither, I failed to discover. Keeping my eyes wide open,
+however, I saw "Angelina"--so I christened her--coming quietly down
+the hill, carrying an elderly naval officer. I was ready to receive
+the unconscious couple, and soon made my claim good. Of course, the
+officer was not to blame. He had bought it of a sailor, who in his
+turn had purchased the animal of a messmate, who of course had
+obtained it from another, and so on; but eventually it returned to its
+old quarters, where it only remained about a fortnight. I grew tired
+of looking for Angelina, and had given her up, when one day she turned
+up, in capital condition, in the possession of a French officer of
+Chasseurs. But nothing I could say to the Frenchman would induce him
+to take the view of the matter I wished, but had no right to enforce.
+He had bought the horse at Kamiesch, and intended to keep it. We grew
+hot at last; and our dispute drew out so large an audience that the
+Frenchman took alarm, and tried to make off. I held on to Angelina
+for a little while; but at last the mare broke away from me, as Tam o'
+Shanter's Maggie did from the witches (I don't mean that she left me
+even her tail), and vanished in a cloud of dust. It was the last I
+ever saw of Angelina.
+
+More than once the Crimean thievery reduced us to woeful straits. To a
+Greek, returning to Constantinople, we entrusted (after the murder of
+our washerwoman) two trunks, containing "things for the wash," which
+he was to bring back as soon as possible. But neither upon Greek,
+trunks, nor their contents did we ever set eyes again. It was a
+serious loss. The best part of our table-cloths and other domestic
+linen, all my clothes, except two suits, and all of Mr. Day's linen
+vanished, and had to be replaced as best we could by fresh purchases
+from Kamiesch and Kadikoi.
+
+Perhaps the most ridiculous shift I was ever put to by the Crimean
+thieves happened when we rose one morning and found the greater part
+of our stud missing. I had, in the course of the day, urgent occasion
+to ride over to the French camp on the Tchernaya; the only animal
+available for my transport was an old grey mare, who had contracted
+some equine disease of which I do not know the name, but which gave
+her considerable resemblance to a dog suffering from the mange. Now,
+go to the French camp I must; to borrow a horse was impossible, and
+something must be done with the grey. Suddenly one of those happy
+thoughts, which sometimes help us over our greatest difficulties,
+entered into my scheming brains. Could I not conceal the poor mare's
+worst blemishes. Her colour was grey; would not a thick coating of
+flour from my dredger make all right? There was no time to be lost;
+the remedy was administered successfully, and off I started; but,
+alas! the wind was high and swept the skirts of my riding habit so
+determinedly against the side of the poor beast, that before long its
+false coat was transferred to the dark cloth, and my innocent _ruse_
+exposed. The French are proverbially and really a polite and
+considerate nation, but I never heard more hearty peals of laughter
+from any sides than those which conveyed to me the horrible assurance
+that my scheme had unhappily failed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    MY WORK IN THE CRIMEA.
+
+
+I hope the reader will give me credit for the assertion that I am
+about to make, viz., that I enter upon the particulars of this chapter
+with great reluctance; but I cannot omit them, for the simple reason
+that they strengthen my one and only claim to interest the public,
+viz., my services to the brave British army in the Crimea. But,
+fortunately, I can follow a course which will not only render it
+unnecessary for me to sound my own trumpet, but will be more
+satisfactory to the reader. I can put on record the written opinions
+of those who had ample means of judging and ascertaining how I
+fulfilled the great object which I had in view in leaving England for
+the Crimea; and before I do so, I must solicit my readers' attention
+to the position I held in the camp as doctress, nurse, and "mother."
+
+I have never been long in any place before I have found my practical
+experience in the science of medicine useful. Even in London I have
+found it of service to others. And in the Crimea, where the doctors
+were so overworked, and sickness was so prevalent, I could not be long
+idle; for I never forgot that my intention in seeking the army was to
+help the kind-hearted doctors, to be useful to whom I have ever looked
+upon and still regard as so high a privilege.
+
+But before very long I found myself surrounded with patients of my
+own, and this for two simple reasons. In the first place, the men (I
+am speaking of the "ranks" now) had a very serious objection to going
+into hospital for any but urgent reasons, and the regimental doctors
+were rather fond of sending them there; and, in the second place, they
+could and did get at my store sick-comforts and nourishing food, which
+the heads of the medical staff would sometimes find it difficult to
+procure. These reasons, with the additional one that I was very
+familiar with the diseases which they suffered most from, and
+successful in their treatment (I say this in no spirit of vanity),
+were quite sufficient to account for the numbers who came daily to the
+British Hotel for medical treatment.
+
+That the officers were glad of me as a doctress and nurse may be
+easily understood. When a poor fellow lay sickening in his cheerless
+hut and sent down to me, he knew very well that I should not ride up
+in answer to his message empty-handed. And although I did not hesitate
+to charge him with the value of the necessaries I took him, still he
+was thankful enough to be able to _purchase_ them. When we lie ill at
+home surrounded with comfort, we never think of feeling any special
+gratitude for the sick-room delicacies which we accept as a
+consequence of our illness; but the poor officer lying ill and weary
+in his crazy hut, dependent for the merest necessaries of existence
+upon a clumsy, ignorant soldier-cook, who would almost prefer eating
+his meat raw to having the trouble of cooking it (our English soldiers
+are bad campaigners), often finds his greatest troubles in the want of
+those little delicacies with which a weak stomach must be humoured
+into retaining nourishment. How often have I felt sad at the sight of
+poor lads, who in England thought attending early parade a hardship,
+and felt harassed if their neckcloths set awry, or the natty little
+boots would not retain their polish, bearing, and bearing so nobly and
+bravely, trials and hardships to which the veteran campaigner
+frequently succumbed. Don't you think, reader, if you were lying, with
+parched lips and fading appetite, thousands of miles from mother,
+wife, or sister, loathing the rough food by your side, and thinking
+regretfully of that English home where nothing that could minister to
+your great need would be left untried--don't you think that you would
+welcome the familiar figure of the stout lady whose bony horse has
+just pulled up at the door of your hut, and whose panniers contain
+some cooling drink, a little broth, some homely cake, or a dish of
+jelly or blanc-mange--don't you think, under such circumstances, that
+you would heartily agree with my friend _Punch's_ remark:--
+
+    "That berry-brown face, with a kind heart's trace
+        Impressed on each wrinkle sly,
+    Was a sight to behold, through the snow-clouds rolled
+        Across that iron sky."
+
+I tell you, reader, I have seen many a bold fellow's eyes moisten at
+such a season, when a woman's voice and a woman's care have brought to
+their minds recollections of those happy English homes which some of
+them never saw again; but many did, who will remember their
+woman-comrade upon the bleak and barren heights before Sebastopol.
+
+Then their calling me "mother" was not, I think, altogether unmeaning.
+I used to fancy that there was something homely in the word; and,
+reader, you cannot think how dear to them was the smallest thing that
+reminded them of home.
+
+Some of my Crimean patients, who were glad of me as nurse and
+doctress, bore names familiar to all England, and perhaps, did I ask
+them, they would allow me to publish those names. I am proud to think
+that a gallant sailor, on whose brave breast the order of Victoria
+rests--a more gallant man can never wear it--sent for the doctress
+whom he had known in Kingston, when his arm, wounded on the fatal 18th
+of June, refused to heal, and I think that the application I
+recommended did it good; but I shall let some of my patients' letters,
+taken from a large bundle, speak for me. Of course I must suppress
+most of their names. Here are two from one of my best and kindest
+sons.
+
+    "My dear Mamma,--Will you kindly give the bearer the
+    bottle you promised me when you were here this morning,
+    for my jaundice. Please let me know how much I am to
+    take of it. Yours truly,
+
+        "F. M., _C. E._"
+
+You see the medicine does him good, for a few days later comes another
+from the same writer:--
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--I have finished the bottle,
+    which has done my jaundice a deal of good. Will you
+    kindly send another by bearer. Truly yours,
+
+        "F. M."
+
+It was a capital prescription which had done his jaundice good. There
+was so great a demand for it, that I kept it mixed in a large pan,
+ready to ladle it out to the scores of applicants who came for it.
+
+Sometimes they would send for other and no less important medicines.
+Here is such an application from a sick officer:--
+
+    "Mrs. Seacole would confer a favour on the writer, who
+    is very ill, by giving his servant (the bearer) a boiled
+    or roast fowl; if it be impossible to obtain them, some
+    chicken broth would be very acceptable.
+
+        "I am yours, truly obliged,
+
+            "J. K., 18th R. S."
+
+Doesn't that read like a sick man's letter, glad enough to welcome any
+woman's face? Here are some gentlemen of the Commissariat anxious to
+speak for me:--
+
+    "Arthur C----, Comm. Staff Officer, having been attacked
+    one evening with a very bad diarrhoea at Mrs.
+    Seacole's, took some of her good medicine. It cured me
+    before the next morning, and I have never been attacked
+    since.--October 17th, 1855."
+
+
+    "Archibald R. L----, Comm. Staff, Crimea, was suffering
+    from diarrhoea for a week or more; after taking Mrs.
+    Seacole's good medicines for two days, he became quite
+    well, and remained so to this day.--October 17th, 1855."
+
+Here is Mr. M----, paymaster of the Land Transport Corps, ready with a
+good account of my services:--
+
+    "I certify that Madame Seacole twice cured me
+    effectually of dysentery while in the Crimea, and also
+    my clerk and the men of my corps, to my certain
+    knowledge."
+
+And some of the men shall speak for themselves:--
+
+    "Stationary Engine, December 1, 1855.
+
+    "I certify that I was severely attacked by diarrhoea
+    after landing in the Crimea. I took a great deal of
+    medicine, but nothing served me until I called on Mrs.
+    Seacole. She gave me her medicine but once, and I was
+    cured effectually.
+
+        "Wm. Knollys, Sergt., L.T.C."
+
+
+    "This is to certify that Wm. Row, L.T.C, had a severe
+    attack of illness, and was in a short time restored to
+    health by the prompt attention and medical skill of Mrs.
+    Seacole, British Hotel, Spring Hill, Crimea."
+
+Many of my patients belonged to the Land Transport and Army Works
+Corps. The former indeed were in my close neighbourhood, and their
+hospital was nearly opposite to the British Hotel. I did all I could
+for them, and have many letters expressive of their gratitude. From
+them I select the following:--
+
+    "Head-Quarters, Camp, Crimea, June 30, 1856.
+
+    "I have much pleasure in bearing testimony to Mrs.
+    Seacole's kindness and attention to the sick of the
+    Railway Labourers' Army Works Corps and Land Transport
+    Corps during the winters of 1854 and 1855.
+
+    "She not only, from the knowledge she had acquired in
+    the West Indies, was enabled to administer appropriate
+    remedies for their ailments, but, what was of as much or
+    more importance, she charitably furnished them with
+    proper nourishment, which they had no means of obtaining
+    except in the hospital, and most of that class had an
+    objection to go into hospital, particularly the railway
+    labourers and the men of the Army Works Corps.
+
+        "John Hall,
+
+            "Inspector-General of Hospitals."
+
+I hope that Mr. P----, of the Army Works Corps, will pardon my laying
+the following letter before the public:--
+
+    "Dear Mrs. Seacole,--It is with feelings of great
+    pleasure that I hear you are safely arrived in England,
+    upon which I beg to congratulate you, and return you
+    many thanks for your kindness whilst in the Crimea.
+
+    "The bitter sherry you kindly made up for me was in
+    truth a great blessing to both myself and my son, and as
+    I expect to go to Bombay shortly, I would feel grateful
+    to you if you would favour me with the receipt for
+    making it, as it appears to be so very grateful a
+    beverage for weakness and bowel complaints in a warm
+    climate. With many kind regards, believe me, dear madam,
+    your obliged servant,
+
+        "Samuel P----,
+
+            "Late Superintendent Army Works Corps."
+
+Here is a certificate from one of the Army Works' men, to whose case I
+devoted no little time and trouble:--
+
+    "I certify that I was labouring under a severe attack of
+    diarrhoea last August, and that I was restored to
+    health through the instrumentality and kindness of Mrs.
+    Seacole.
+
+    "I also certify that my fingers were severely jammed
+    whilst at work at Frenchman's Hill, and Mrs. Seacole
+    cured me after three doctors had fruitlessly attempted
+    to cure them.
+
+    "And I cannot leave the Crimea without testifying to the
+    kindness and skill of Mrs. Seacole, and may God reward
+    her for it.
+
+        "James Wallen,
+
+            "5th Division Army Works Corps."
+
+Here are three more letters--and the last I shall print--from a
+sailor, a soldier, and a civilian:--
+
+    "This is to certify that Wm. Adams, caulker, of H.M.S.
+    'Wasp,' and belonging to the Royal Naval Brigade, had a
+    severe attack of cholera, and was cured in a few hours
+    by Mrs. Seacole."
+
+    "I certify that I was troubled by a severe inflammation
+    of the chest, caused by exposure in the trenches, for
+    about four months, and that Mrs. Seacole's medicine
+    completely cured me in one month, and may God reward
+    her.
+
+        "Charles Flinn, Sergt. 3rd Co. R.S.M."
+
+
+    "Upper Clapton, Middlesex, March 2, 1856.
+
+    "Dear Madam,--Having been informed by my son, Mr. Edward
+    Gill, of St. George's Store, Crimea, of his recent
+    illness (jaundice), and of your kind attention and
+    advice to him during that illness, and up to the time he
+    was, by the blessing of God and your assistance,
+    restored to health, permit me, on behalf of myself, my
+    wife, and my family, to return you our most grateful
+    thanks, trusting you may be spared for many years to
+    come, in health of body and vigour of mind, to carry out
+    your benevolent intention. Believe me, my dear madam,
+    yours most gratefully,
+
+        "Edward Gill."
+
+And now that I have made this a chapter of testimonials, I may as
+well finish them right off, and have done with them altogether. I
+shall trouble the patient reader with four more only, which I have not
+the heart to omit.
+
+    "Sebastopol, July 1, 1856.
+
+    "Mrs. Seacole was with the British army in the Crimea
+    from February, 1855, to this time. This excellent woman
+    has frequently exerted herself in the most praiseworthy
+    manner in attending wounded men, even in positions of
+    great danger, and in assisting sick soldiers by all
+    means in her power. In addition, she kept a very good
+    store, and supplied us with many comforts at a time we
+    much required them.
+
+        "Wm. P----,
+
+            "Adjutant-General of the British Army
+                in the Crimea."
+
+
+    "July 1, 1856.
+
+    "I have much pleasure in stating that I am acquainted
+    with Mrs. Seacole, and from all that I have seen or
+    heard of her, I believe her to be a useful and good
+    person, kind and charitable.
+
+        "C. A. W----,
+
+            "Lt.-Gen. Comm. of Sebastopol."
+
+The third is from the pen of one who at that time was more looked to,
+and better known, than any other man in the Crimea. In the 2nd vol. of
+Russell's "Letters from the Seat of War," p. 187, is the following
+entry:--
+
+    "In the hour of their illness these men (Army Works
+    Corps), in common with many others, have found a kind
+    and successful physician. Close to the railway,
+    half-way between the Col de Balaclava and Kadikoi, Mrs.
+    Seacole, formerly of Kingston and of several other parts
+    of the world, such as Panama and Chagres, has pitched
+    her abode--an iron storehouse with wooden sheds and
+    outlying tributaries--and here she doctors and cures all
+    manner of men with extraordinary success. She is always
+    in attendance near the battle-field to aid the wounded,
+    and has earned many a poor fellow's blessings."
+
+Yes! I cannot--referring to that time--conscientiously charge myself
+with doing less for the men who had only thanks to give me, than for
+the officers whose gratitude gave me the necessaries of life. I think
+I was ever ready to turn from the latter to help the former, humble as
+they might be; and they were grateful in their way, and as far as they
+could be. They would buy me apples and other fruit at Balaclava, and
+leave them at my store. One made me promise, when I returned home, to
+send word to his Irish mother, who was to send me a cow in token of
+her gratitude for the help I had been to her son. I have a book filled
+with hundreds of the names of those who came to me for medicines and
+other aids; and never a train of sick or wounded men from the front
+passed the British Hotel but its hostess was awaiting them to offer
+comforts to the poor fellows, for whose suffering her heart bled.
+
+_Punch_, who allowed my poor name to appear in the pages which had
+welcomed Miss Nightingale home--_Punch_, that whimsical mouthpiece of
+some of the noblest hearts that ever beat beneath black coats--shall
+last of all raise its voice, that never yet pleaded an unworthy cause,
+for the Mother Seacole that takes shame to herself for speaking thus
+of the poor part she bore of the trials and hardships endured on that
+distant shore, where Britain's best and bravest wrung hardly
+Sebastopol from the grasp of Britain's foe:--
+
+    "No store she set by the epaulette,
+      Be it worsted or gold lace;
+    For K. C. B. or plain private Smith,
+      She had still one pleasant face.
+
+    "And not alone was her kindness shown
+      To the hale and hungry lot
+    Who drank her grog and ate her prog,
+      And paid their honest shot.
+
+    "The sick and sorry can tell the story
+      Of her nursing and dosing deeds;
+    Regimental M.D. never worked as she,
+      In helping sick men's needs.
+
+    "Of such work, God knows, was as much as she chose
+      That dreary winter-tide,
+    When Death hung o'er the damp and pestilent camp,
+      And his scythe swung far and wide.
+
+    "She gave her aid to all who prayed,
+      To hungry and sick and cold;
+    Open hand and heart, alike ready to part
+      Kind words and acts, and gold.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "And--be the right man in the right place who can--
+      The right woman was Dame Seacole."
+
+Reader, now that we have come to the end of this chapter, I can say
+what I have been all anxiety to tell you from its beginning. Please
+look back to Chapter VIII., and see how hard the right woman had to
+struggle to convey herself to the right place.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    MY CUSTOMERS AT THE BRITISH HOTEL.
+
+
+I shall proceed in this chapter to make the reader acquainted with
+some of the customers of the British Hotel, who came there for its
+creature comforts as well as its hostess's medicines when need was;
+and if he or she should be inclined to doubt or should hesitate at
+accepting my experience of Crimean life as entirely credible, I beg
+that individual to refer to the accounts which were given in the
+newspapers of the spring of 1855, and I feel sure they will acquit me
+of any intention to exaggerate. If I were to speak of all the nameless
+horrors of that spring as plainly as I could, I should really disgust
+you; but those I shall bring before your notice have all something of
+the humorous in them--and so it ever is. Time is a great restorer, and
+changes surely the greatest sorrow into a pleasing memory. The sun
+shines this spring-time upon green grass that covers the graves of the
+poor fellows we left behind sadly a few short months ago: bright
+flowers grow up upon ruins of batteries and crumbling trenches, and
+cover the sod that presses on many a mouldering token of the old time
+of battle and death. I dare say that, if I went to the Crimea now, I
+should see a smiling landscape, instead of the blood-stained scene
+which I shall ever associate with distress and death; and as it is
+with nature so it is with human kind. Whenever I meet those who have
+survived that dreary spring of 1855, we seldom talk about its horrors;
+but remembering its transient gleams of sunshine, smile at the fun and
+good nature that varied its long and weary monotony. And now that I am
+anxious to remember all I can that will interest my readers, my memory
+prefers to dwell upon what was pleasing and amusing, although the time
+will never come when it will cease to retain most vividly the pathos
+and woe of those dreadful months.
+
+I have said that the winter had not ended when we began operations at
+the British Hotel; and very often, after we considered we were fairly
+under spring's influence, our old enemy would come back with an angry
+roar of wind and rain, levelling tents, unroofing huts, destroying
+roads, and handing over May to the command of General Fevrier. But the
+sun fought bravely for us, and in time always dispersed the leaden
+clouds and gilded the iron sky, and made us cheerful again. During the
+end of March, the whole of April, and a considerable portion of May,
+however, the army was but a little better off for the advent of
+spring. The military road to the camp was only in progress--the
+railway only carried ammunition. A few hours' rain rendered the old
+road all but impassable, and scarcity often existed in the front
+before Sebastopol, although the frightened and anxious Commissariat
+toiled hard to avert such a mishap; so that very often to the British
+Hotel came officers starved out on the heights above us. The dandies
+of Rotten Row would come down riding on sorry nags, ready to carry
+back--their servants were on duty in the trenches--anything that would
+be available for dinner. A single glance at their personal appearance
+would suffice to show the hardships of the life they were called upon
+to lead. Before I left London for the seat of war I had been more than
+once to the United Service Club, seeking to gain the interest of
+officers whom I had known in Jamaica; and I often thought afterwards
+of the difference between those I saw there trimly shaven, handsomely
+dressed, with spotless linen and dandy air, and these their
+companions, who in England would resemble them. Roughly, warmly
+dressed, with great fur caps, which met their beards and left nothing
+exposed but lips and nose, and not much of those; you would easily
+believe that soap and water were luxuries not readily obtainable, that
+shirts and socks were often comforts to dream about rather than
+possess, and that they were familiar with horrors you would shudder to
+hear named. Tell me, reader, can you fancy what the want of so simple
+a thing as a pocket-handkerchief is? To put a case--have you ever gone
+out for the day without one; sat in a draught and caught a sneezing
+cold in the head? You say the question is an unnecessarily unpleasant
+one, and yet what I am about to tell you is true, and the sufferer is,
+I believe, still alive.
+
+An officer had ridden down one day to obtain refreshments (this was very
+early in the spring); some nice fowls had just been taken from the spit,
+and I offered one to him. Paper was one of the most hardly obtainable
+luxuries of the Crimea, and I rarely had any to waste upon my customers;
+so I called out, "Give me your pocket-handkerchief, my son, that I may
+wrap it up." You see we could not be very particular out there; but he
+smiled very bitterly as he answered, "Pocket-handkerchief, mother--by
+Jove! I wish I had one. I tore my last shirt into shreds a fortnight
+ago, and there's not a bit of it left now."
+
+Shortly after, a hundred dozen of these useful articles came to my
+store, and I sold them all to officers and men very speedily.
+
+For some time, and until I found the task beyond my strength, I kept
+up a capital table at the British Hotel; but at last I gave up doing
+so professedly, and my hungry customers had to make shift with
+whatever was on the premises. Fortunately they were not over-dainty,
+and had few antipathies. My duties increased so rapidly, that
+sometimes it was with difficulty that I found time to eat and sleep.
+Could I have obtained good servants, my daily labours would have been
+lightened greatly; but my staff never consisted of more than a few
+boys, two black cooks, some Turks--one of whom, Osman, had enough to
+do to kill and pluck the poultry, while the others looked after the
+stock and killed our goats and sheep--and as many runaway sailors or
+good-for-noughts in search of employment as we could from time to time
+lay our hands upon; but they never found my larder entirely empty. I
+often used to roast a score or so of fowls daily, besides boiling hams
+and tongues. Either these or a slice from a joint of beef or mutton
+you would be pretty sure of finding at your service in the larder of
+the British Hotel.
+
+Would you like, gentle reader, to know what other things suggestive of
+home and its comforts your relatives and friends in the Crimea could
+obtain from the hostess of Spring Hill? I do not tell you that the
+following articles were all obtainable at the commencement, but many
+were. The time was indeed when, had you asked me for mock turtle and
+venison, you should have had them, preserved in tins, but that was
+when the Crimea was flooded with plenty--too late, alas! to save many
+whom want had killed; but had you been doing your best to batter
+Sebastopol about the ears of the Russians in the spring and summer of
+the year before last, the firm of Seacole and Day would have been
+happy to have served you with (I omit ordinary things) linen and
+hosiery, saddlery, caps, boots and shoes, for the outer man; and for
+the inner man, meat and soups of every variety in tins (you can
+scarcely conceive how disgusted we all became at last with preserved
+provisions); salmon, lobsters, and oysters, also in tins, which last
+beaten up into fritters, with onions, butter, eggs, pepper, and salt,
+were very good; game, wild fowl, vegetables, also preserved, eggs,
+sardines, curry powder, cigars, tobacco, snuff, cigarette papers, tea,
+coffee, tooth powder, and currant jelly. When cargoes came in from
+Constantinople, we bought great supplies of potatoes, carrots,
+turnips, and greens. Ah! what a rush there used to be for the greens.
+You might sometimes get hot rolls; but, generally speaking, I bought
+the Turkish bread (_ekmek_), baked at Balaclava.
+
+Or had you felt too ill to partake of your rough camp fare, coarsely
+cooked by a soldier cook, who, unlike the French, could turn his hand
+to few things but fighting, and had ridden down that muddy road to the
+Col, to see what Mother Seacole could give you for dinner, the chances
+were you would have found a good joint of mutton, not of the fattest,
+forsooth; for in such miserable condition were the poor beasts landed,
+that once, when there came an urgent order from head-quarters for
+twenty-five pounds of mutton, we had to cut up one sheep and a half
+to provide the quantity; or you would have stumbled upon something
+curried, or upon a good Irish stew, nice and hot, with plenty of
+onions and potatoes, or upon some capital meat-pies. I found the
+preserved meats were better relished cooked in this fashion, and well
+doctored with stimulants. Before long I grew as familiar with the
+mysteries of seasoning as any London pieman, and could accommodate
+myself to the requirements of the seasons as readily. Or had there
+been nothing better, you might have gone further and fared on worse
+fare than one of my Welch rabbits, for the manufacture of which I
+became so famous. And had you been fortunate enough to have visited
+the British Hotel upon rice-pudding day, I warrant you would have
+ridden back to your hut with kind thoughts of Mother Seacole's
+endeavours to give you a taste of home. If I had nothing else to be
+proud of, I think my rice puddings, made without milk, upon the high
+road to Sebastopol, would have gained me a reputation. What a shout
+there used to be when I came out of my little caboose, hot and
+flurried, and called out, "Rice-pudding day, my sons." Some of them
+were baked in large shallow pans, for the men and the sick, who always
+said that it reminded them of home. You would scarcely expect to
+finish up your dinner with pastry, but very often you would have found
+a good stock of it in my larder. Whenever I had a few leisure moments,
+I used to wash my hands, roll up my sleeves and roll out pastry. Very
+often I was interrupted to dispense medicines; but if the tarts had a
+flavour of senna, or the puddings tasted of rhubarb, it never
+interfered with their consumption. I declare I never heard or read of
+an army so partial to pastry as that British army before Sebastopol;
+while I had a reputation for my sponge-cakes that any pastry-cook in
+London, even Gunter, might have been proud of. The officers, full of
+fun and high spirits, used to crowd into the little kitchen, and,
+despite all my remonstrances, which were not always confined to words,
+for they made me frantic sometimes, and an iron spoon is a tempting
+weapon, would carry off the tarts hot from the oven, while the
+good-for-nothing black cooks, instead of lending me their aid, would
+stand by and laugh with all their teeth. And when the hot season
+commenced, the crowds that came to the British Hotel for my claret and
+cider cups, and other cooling summer drinks, were very complimentary
+in their expressions of appreciation of my skill.
+
+Now, supposing that you had made a hearty dinner and were thinking of
+starting homeward--if I can use so pleasant a term in reference to
+your cheerless quarters--it was very natural that you should be
+anxious to carry back something to your hut. Perhaps you expected to
+be sent into the trenches (many a supper cooked by me has been
+consumed in those fearful trenches by brave men, who could eat it with
+keen appetites while the messengers of death were speeding around
+them); or perhaps you had planned a little dinner-party, and wanted to
+give your friends something better than their ordinary fare. Anyhow,
+you would in all probability have some good reason for returning laden
+with comforts and necessaries from Spring Hill. You would not be very
+particular about carrying them. You might have been a great swell at
+home, where you would have shuddered if Bond Street had seen you
+carrying a parcel no larger than your card-case; but those
+considerations rarely troubled you here. Very likely, your servant was
+lying crouched in a rifle pit, having "pots" at the Russians, or
+keeping watch and ward in the long lines of trenches, or, stripped to
+his shirt, shovelling powder and shot into the great guns, whose
+steady roar broke the evening's calm. So if you did not wait upon
+yourself, you would stand a very fair chance of being starved. But you
+would open your knapsack, if you had brought one, for me to fill it
+with potatoes, and halloo out, "Never mind, mother!" although the
+gravy from the fowls on your saddle before you was soaking through the
+little modicum of paper which was all I could afford you. So laden,
+you would cheerfully start up the hill of mud hutward; and well for
+you if you did not come to grief on that treacherous sea of mud that
+lay swelling between the Col and your destination. Many a mishap,
+ludicrous but for their consequences, happened on it. I remember a
+young officer coming down one day just in time to carry off my last
+fowl and meat pie. Before he had gone far, the horse so floundered in
+the mud that the saddle-girths broke, and while the pies rolled into
+the clayey soil in one direction, the fowl flew in another. To make
+matters worse, the horse, in his efforts to extricate himself, did for
+them entirely; and in terrible distress, the poor fellow came back for
+me to set him up again. I shook my head for a long time, but at last,
+after he had over and over again urged upon me pathetically that he
+had two fellows coming to dine with him at six, and nothing in the
+world in his hut but salt pork, I resigned a plump fowl which I had
+kept back for my own dinner. Off he started again, but soon came back
+with, "Oh, mother, I forgot all about the potatoes; they've all rolled
+out upon that ---- road; you must fill my bag again." We all laughed
+heartily at him, but this state of things _had_ been rather tragical.
+
+Before I bring this chapter to a close, I should like, with the
+reader's permission, to describe one day of my life in the Crimea.
+They were all pretty much alike, except when there was fighting upon a
+large scale going on, and duty called me to the field. I was generally
+up and busy by daybreak, sometimes earlier, for in the summer my bed
+had no attractions strong enough to bind me to it after four. There
+was plenty to do before the work of the day began. There was the
+poultry to pluck and prepare for cooking, which had been killed on the
+previous night; the joints to be cut up and got ready for the same
+purpose; the medicines to be mixed; the store to be swept and cleaned.
+Of very great importance, with all these things to see after, were the
+few hours of quiet before the road became alive with travellers. By
+seven o'clock the morning coffee would be ready, hot and refreshing,
+and eagerly sought for by the officers of the Army Works Corps engaged
+upon making the great high-road to the front, and the Commissariat and
+Land Transport men carrying stores from Balaclava to the heights.
+There was always a great demand for coffee by those who knew its
+refreshing and strengthening qualities, milk I could not give them (I
+kept it in tins for special use); but they had it hot and strong, with
+plenty of sugar and a slice of butter, which I recommend as a capital
+substitute for milk. From that time until nine, officers on duty in
+the neighbourhood, or passing by, would look in for breakfast, and
+about half-past nine my sick patients began to show themselves. In
+the following hour they came thickly, and sometimes it was past twelve
+before I had got through this duty. They came with every variety of
+suffering and disease; the cases I most disliked were the frostbitten
+fingers and feet in the winter. That over, there was the hospital to
+visit across the way, which was sometimes overcrowded with patients. I
+was a good deal there, and as often as possible would take over books
+and papers, which I used to borrow for that purpose from my friends
+and the officers I knew. Once, a great packet of tracts was sent to me
+from Plymouth anonymously, and these I distributed in the same manner.
+By this time the day's news had come from the front, and perhaps among
+the casualties over night there would be some one wounded or sick, who
+would be glad to see me ride up with the comforts he stood most in
+need of; and during the day, if any accident occurred in the
+neighbourhood or on the road near the British Hotel, the men generally
+brought the sufferer there, whence, if the hurt was serious, he would
+be transferred to the hospital of the Land Transport opposite. I used
+not always to stand upon too much ceremony when I heard of sick or
+wounded officers in the front. Sometimes their friends would ask me to
+go to them, though very often I waited for no hint, but took the
+chance of meeting with a kind reception. I used to think of their
+relatives at home, who would have given so much to possess my
+privilege; and more than one officer have I startled by appearing
+before him, and telling him abruptly that he must have a mother, wife,
+or sister at home whom he missed, and that he must therefore be glad
+of some woman to take their place.
+
+Until evening the store would be filled with customers wanting
+stores, dinners, and luncheons; loungers and idlers seeking
+conversation and amusement; and at eight o'clock the curtain descended
+on that day's labour, and I could sit down and eat at leisure. It was
+no easy thing to clear the store, canteen, and yards; but we
+determined upon adhering to the rule that nothing should be sold after
+that hour, and succeeded. Any one who came after that time, came
+simply as a friend. There could be no necessity for any one, except on
+extraordinary occasions, when the rule could be relaxed, to purchase
+things after eight o'clock. And drunkenness or excess were discouraged
+at Spring Hill in every way; indeed, my few unpleasant scenes arose
+chiefly from my refusing to sell liquor where I saw it was wanted to
+be abused. I could appeal with a clear conscience to all who knew me
+there, to back my assertion that I neither permitted drunkenness among
+the men nor gambling among the officers. Whatever happened elsewhere,
+intoxication, cards, and dice were never to be seen, within the
+precincts of the British Hotel. My regulations were well known, and a
+kind-hearted officer of the Royals, who was much there, and who
+permitted me to use a familiarity towards him which I trust I never
+abused, undertook to be my Provost-marshal, but his duties were very
+light.
+
+At first we kept our store open on Sunday from sheer necessity, but
+after a little while, when stores in abundance were established at
+Kadikoi and elsewhere, and the absolute necessity no longer existed,
+Sunday became a day of most grateful rest at Spring Hill. This step
+also met with opposition from the men; but again we were determined,
+and again we triumphed. I am sure we needed rest. I have often
+wondered since how it was that I never fell ill or came home "on
+urgent private affairs." I am afraid that I was not sufficiently
+thankful to the Providence which gave me strength to carry out the
+work I loved so well, and felt so happy in being engaged upon; but
+although I never had a week's illness during my campaign, the labour,
+anxiety, and perhaps the few trials that followed it, have told upon
+me. I have never felt since that time the strong and hearty woman that
+I was when I braved with impunity the pestilence of Navy Bay and
+Cruces. It would kill me easily now.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF WAR--ADVANCE OF MY TURKISH FRIENDS
+    ON KAMARA--VISITORS TO THE CAMP--MISS NIGHTINGALE--MONS.
+    SOYER AND THE CHOLERA--SUMMER IN THE CRIMEA--"THIRSTY
+    SOULS"--DEATH BUSY IN THE TRENCHES.
+
+
+In the last three chapters, I have attempted, without any
+consideration of dates, to give my readers some idea of my life in the
+Crimea. I am fully aware that I have jumbled up events strangely,
+talking in the same page, and even sentence, of events which occurred
+at different times; but I have three excuses to offer for my
+unhistorical inexactness. In the first place, my memory is far from
+trustworthy, and I kept no written diary; in the second place, the
+reader must have had more than enough of journals and chronicles of
+Crimean life, and I am only the historian of Spring Hill; and in the
+third place, unless I am allowed to tell the story of my life in my
+own way, I cannot tell it at all.
+
+I shall now endeavour to describe my out-of-door life as much as
+possible, and write of those great events in the field of which I was
+a humble witness. But I shall continue to speak from my own experience
+simply; and if the reader should be surprised at my leaving any
+memorable action of the army unnoticed, he may be sure that it is
+because I was mixing medicines or making good things in the kitchen of
+the British Hotel, and first heard the particulars of it, perhaps,
+from the newspapers which came from home. My readers must know, too,
+that they were much more familiar with the history of the camp at
+their own firesides, than we who lived in it. Just as a spectator
+seeing one of the battles from a hill, as I did the Tchernaya, knows
+more about it than the combatant in the valley below, who only thinks
+of the enemy whom it is his immediate duty to repel; so you, through
+the valuable aid of the cleverest man in the whole camp, read in the
+_Times'_ columns the details of that great campaign, while we, the
+actors in it, had enough to do to discharge our own duties well, and
+rarely concerned ourselves in what seemed of such importance to you.
+And so very often a desperate skirmish or hard-fought action, the news
+of which created so much sensation in England, was but little regarded
+at Spring Hill.
+
+My first experience of battle was pleasant enough. Before we had been
+long at Spring Hill, Omar Pasha got something for his Turks to do, and
+one fine morning they were marched away towards the Russian outposts
+on the road to Baidar. I accompanied them on horseback, and enjoyed
+the sight amazingly. English and French cavalry preceded the Turkish
+infantry over the plain yet full of memorials of the terrible Light
+Cavalry charge a few months before; and while one detachment of the
+Turks made a reconnaissance to the right of the Tchernaya, another
+pushed their way up the hill, towards Kamara, driving in the Russian
+outposts, after what seemed but a slight resistance. It was very
+pretty to see them advance, and to watch how every now and then little
+clouds of white smoke puffed up from behind bushes and the crests of
+hills, and were answered by similar puffs from the long line of busy
+skirmishers that preceded the main body. This was my first experience
+of actual battle, and I felt that strange excitement which I do not
+remember on future occasions, coupled with an earnest longing to see
+more of warfare, and to share in its hazards. It was not long before
+my wish was gratified.
+
+I do not know much of the second bombardment of Sebastopol in the
+month of April, although I was as assiduous as I could be in my
+attendance at Cathcart's Hill. I could judge of its severity by the
+long trains of wounded which passed the British Hotel. I had a
+stretcher laid near the door, and very often a poor fellow was laid
+upon it, outwearied by the terrible conveyance from the front.
+
+After this unsuccessful bombardment, it seemed to us that there was a
+sudden lull in the progress of the siege; and other things began to
+interest us. There were several arrivals to talk over. Miss
+Nightingale came to supervise the Balaclava hospitals, and, before
+long, she had practical experience of Crimean fever. After her, came
+the Duke of Newcastle, and the great high priest of the mysteries of
+cookery, Mons. Alexis Soyer. He was often at Spring Hill, with the
+most smiling of faces and in the most gorgeous of irregular uniforms,
+and never failed to praise my soups and dainties. I always flattered
+myself that I was his match, and with our West Indian dishes could of
+course beat him hollow, and more than once I challenged him to a trial
+of skill; but the gallant Frenchman only shrugged his shoulders, and
+disclaimed my challenge with many flourishes of his jewelled hands,
+declaring that Madame proposed a contest where victory would cost him
+his reputation for gallantry, and be more disastrous than defeat. And
+all because I was a woman, forsooth. What nonsense to talk like that,
+when I was doing the work of half a dozen men. Then he would laugh and
+declare that, when our campaigns were over, we would render rivalry
+impossible, by combining to open the first restaurant in Europe. There
+was always fun in the store when the good-natured Frenchman was there.
+
+One dark, tempestuous night, I was knocked up by the arrival of other
+visitors. These were the first regiment of Sardinian Grenadiers, who,
+benighted on their way to the position assigned them, remained at
+Spring Hill until the morning. We soon turned out our staff, and
+lighted up the store, and entertained the officers as well as we could
+inside, while the soldiers bivouacked in the yards around. Not a
+single thing was stolen or disturbed that night, although they had
+many opportunities. We all admired and liked the Sardinians; they were
+honest, well-disciplined fellows, and I wish there had been no worse
+men or soldiers in the Crimea.
+
+As the season advanced many visitors came to the Crimea from all
+parts of the world, and many of them were glad to make Spring Hill
+their head-quarters. We should have been better off if some of them
+had spared us this compliment. A Captain St. Clair, for instance--who
+could doubt any one with such a name?--stayed some time with us, had
+the best of everything, and paid us most honourably with one bill upon
+his agents, while we cashed another to provide him with money for his
+homeward route. He was an accomplished fellow, and I really liked him;
+but, unfortunately for us, he was a swindler.
+
+I saw much of another visitor to the camp in the Crimea--an old
+acquaintance of mine with whom I had had many a hard bout in past
+times--the cholera. There were many cases in the hospital of the Land
+Transport Corps opposite, and I prescribed for many others personally.
+The raki sold in too many of the stores in Balaclava and Kadikoi was
+most pernicious; and although the authorities forbade the sutlers to
+sell it, under heavy penalties, it found its way into the camp in
+large quantities.
+
+During May, and while preparations were being made for the third great
+bombardment of the ill-fated city, summer broke beautifully, and the
+weather, chequered occasionally by fitful intervals of cold and rain,
+made us all cheerful. You would scarcely have believed that the happy,
+good-humoured, and jocular visitors to the British Hotel were the same
+men who had a few weeks before ridden gloomily through the muddy road
+to its door. It was a period of relaxation, and they all enjoyed it.
+Amusement was the order of the day. Races, dog-hunts, cricket-matches,
+and dinner-parties were eagerly indulged in, and in all I could be of
+use to provide the good cheer which was so essential a part of these
+entertainments; and when the warm weather came in all its intensity,
+and I took to manufacturing cooling beverages for my friends and
+customers, my store was always full. To please all was somewhat
+difficult, and occasionally some of them were scarcely so polite as
+they should have been to a perplexed hostess, who could scarcely be
+expected to remember that Lieutenant A. had bespoken his sangaree an
+instant before Captain B. and his friends had ordered their claret
+cup.
+
+In anticipation of the hot weather, I had laid in a large stock of
+raspberry vinegar, which, properly managed, helps to make a pleasant
+drink; and there was a great demand for sangaree, claret, and cider
+cups, the cups being battered pewter pots. Would you like, reader, to
+know my recipe for the favourite claret cup? It is simple enough.
+Claret, water, lemon-peel, sugar, nutmeg, and--ice--yes, ice, but not
+often and not for long, for the eager officers soon made an end of it.
+Sometimes there were dinner-parties at Spring Hill, but of these more
+hereafter. At one of the earliest, when the _Times_ correspondent was
+to be present, I rode down to Kadikoi, bought some calico and cut it
+up into table napkins. They all laughed very heartily, and thought
+perhaps of a few weeks previously, when every available piece of linen
+in the camp would have been snapped up for pocket-handkerchiefs.
+
+But the reader must not forget that all this time, although there
+might be only a few short and sullen roars of the great guns by day,
+few nights passed without some fighting in the trenches; and very
+often the news of the morning would be that one or other of those I
+knew had fallen. These tidings often saddened me, and when I awoke in
+the night and heard the thunder of the guns fiercer than usual, I have
+quite dreaded the dawn which might usher in bad news.
+
+The deaths in the trenches touched me deeply, perhaps for this reason.
+It was very usual, when a young officer was ordered into the trenches,
+for him to ride down to Spring Hill to dine, or obtain something more
+than his ordinary fare to brighten his weary hours in those fearful
+ditches. They seldom failed on these occasions to shake me by the hand
+at parting, and sometimes would say, "You see, Mrs. Seacole, I can't
+say good-bye to the dear ones at home, so I'll bid you good-bye for
+them. Perhaps you'll see them some day, and if the Russians should
+knock me over, mother, just tell them I thought of them all--will
+you?" And although all this might be said in a light-hearted manner,
+it was rather solemn. I felt it to be so, for I never failed (although
+who was I, that I should preach?) to say something about God's
+providence and relying upon it; and they were very good. No army of
+parsons could be much better than my sons. They would listen very
+gravely, and shake me by the hand again, while I felt that there was
+nothing in the world I would not do for them. Then very often the men
+would say, "I'm going in with my master to-night, Mrs. Seacole; come
+and look after him, if he's hit;" and so often as this happened I
+would pass the night restlessly, awaiting with anxiety the morning,
+and yet dreading to hear the news it held in store for me. I used to
+think it was like having a large family of children ill with fever,
+and dreading to hear which one had passed away in the night.
+
+And as often as the bad news came, I thought it my duty to ride up to
+the hut of the sufferer and do my woman's work. But I felt it deeply.
+How could it be otherwise? There was one poor boy in the Artillery,
+with blue eyes and light golden hair, whom I nursed through a long and
+weary sickness, borne with all a man's spirit, and whom I grew to love
+like a fond old-fashioned mother. I thought if ever angels watched
+over any life, they would shelter his; but one day, but a short time
+after he had left his sick-bed, he was struck down on his battery,
+working like a young hero. It was a long time before I could banish
+from my mind the thought of him as I saw him last, the yellow hair,
+stiff and stained with his life-blood, and the blue eyes closed in the
+sleep of death. Of course, I saw him buried, as I did poor H----
+V----, my old Jamaica friend, whose kind face was so familiar to me of
+old. Another good friend I mourned bitterly--Captain B----, of the
+Coldstreams--a great cricketer. He had been with me on the previous
+evening, had seemed dull, but had supped at my store, and on the
+following morning a brother officer told me he was shot dead while
+setting his pickets, which made me ill and unfit for work for the
+whole day. Mind you, a day was a long time to give to sorrow in the
+Crimea.
+
+I could give many other similar instances, but why should I sadden
+myself or my readers? Others have described the horrors of those fatal
+trenches; but their real history has never been written, and perhaps
+it is as well that so harrowing a tale should be left in oblivion.
+Such anecdotes as the following were very current in the Camp, but I
+have no means of answering for its truth. Two sergeants met in the
+trenches, who had been schoolmates in their youth; years had passed
+since they set out for the battle of life by different roads, and now
+they met again under the fire of a common enemy. With one impulse they
+started forward to exchange the hearty hand-shake and the mutual
+greetings, and while their hands were still clasped, a chance shot
+killed both.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    UNDER FIRE ON THE FATAL 18TH OF JUNE--BEFORE THE
+    REDAN--AT THE CEMETERY--THE ARMISTICE--DEATHS AT
+    HEAD-QUARTERS--DEPRESSION IN THE CAMP--PLENTY IN THE
+    CRIMEA--THE PLAGUE OF FLIES--UNDER FIRE AT THE BATTLE
+    OF THE TCHERNAYA--WORK ON THE FIELD--MY PATIENTS.
+
+
+Before I left the Crimea to return to England, the Adjutant-General of
+the British Army gave me a testimonial, which the reader has already
+read in Chapter XIV., in which he stated that I had "frequently
+exerted myself in the most praiseworthy manner in attending wounded
+men, even in positions of great danger." The simple meaning of this
+sentence is that, in the discharge of what I conceived to be my duty,
+I was frequently "under fire." Now I am far from wishing to speak of
+this fact with any vanity or pride, because, after all, one soon gets
+accustomed to it, and it fails at last to create more than temporary
+uneasiness. Indeed, after Sebastopol was ours, you might often see
+officers and men strolling coolly, even leisurely, across and along
+those streets, exposed to the enemy's fire, when a little haste would
+have carried them beyond the reach of danger. The truth was, I
+believe, they had grown so habituated to being in peril from shot or
+shell, that they rather liked the sensation, and found it difficult to
+get on without a little gratuitous excitement and danger.
+
+But putting aside the great engagements, where I underwent
+considerable peril, one could scarcely move about the various camps
+without some risk. The Russians had, it seemed, sunk great ships' guns
+into the earth, from which they fired shot and shell at a very long
+range, which came tumbling and plunging between, and sometimes into
+the huts and tents, in a very unwieldy and generally harmless fashion.
+Once when I was riding through the camp of the Rifles, a round shot
+came plunging towards me, and before I or the horse had time to be
+much frightened, the ugly fellow buried itself in the earth, with a
+heavy "thud," a little distance in front of us.
+
+In the first week of June, the third bombardment of Sebastopol opened,
+and the Spring Hill visitors had plenty to talk about. Many were the
+surmises as to when the assault would take place, of the success of
+which nobody entertained a doubt. Somehow or other, important secrets
+oozed out in various parts of the camp, which the Russians would have
+given much to know, and one of these places was the British Hotel.
+Some such whispers were afloat on the evening of Sunday the 17th of
+June, and excited me strangely. Any stranger not in my secret would
+have considered that my conduct fully justified my partner, Mr. Day,
+in sending me home, as better fitted for a cell in Bedlam than the
+charge of an hotel in the Crimea. I never remember feeling more
+excited or more restless than upon that day, and no sooner had night
+fairly closed in upon us than, instead of making preparations for bed,
+this same stranger would have seen me wrap up--the nights were still
+cold--and start off for a long walk to Cathcart's Hill, three miles
+and a half away. I stayed there until past midnight, but when I
+returned home, there was no rest for me; for I had found out that, in
+the stillness of the night, many regiments were marching down to the
+trenches, and that the dawn of day would be the signal that should let
+them loose upon the Russians. The few hours still left before
+daybreak, were made the most of at Spring Hill. We were all busily
+occupied in cutting bread and cheese and sandwiches, packing up fowls,
+tongues, and ham, wine and spirits, while I carefully filled the large
+bag, which I always carried into the field slung across my shoulder,
+with lint, bandages, needles, thread, and medicines; and soon after
+daybreak everything was ready packed upon two mules, in charge of my
+steadiest lad, and, I leading the way on horseback, the little
+cavalcade left the British Hotel before the sun of the fatal 18th of
+June had been many hours old.
+
+It was not long before our progress was arrested by the cavalry
+pickets closely stationed to stop all stragglers and spectators from
+reaching the scene of action. But after a Blight parley and when they
+found out who I was, and how I was prepared for the day's work, the
+men raised a shout for me, and, with their officer's sanction, allowed
+me to pass. So I reached Cathcart's Hill crowded with non-combatants,
+and, leaving there the mules, loaded myself with what provisions I
+could carry, and--it was a work of no little difficulty and
+danger--succeeded in reaching the reserves of Sir Henry Barnard's
+division, which was to have stormed something, I forget what; but when
+they found the attack upon the Redan was a failure, very wisely
+abstained. Here I found plenty of officers who soon relieved me of my
+refreshments, and some wounded men who found the contents of my bag
+very useful. At length I made my way to the Woronzoff Road, where the
+temporary hospital had been erected, and there I found the doctors
+hard enough at work, and hastened to help them as best I could. I
+bound up the wounds and ministered to the wants of a good many, and
+stayed there some considerable time.
+
+Upon the way, and even here, I was "under fire." More frequently than
+was agreeable, a shot would come ploughing up the ground and raising
+clouds of dust, or a shell whizz above us. Upon these occasions those
+around would cry out, "Lie down, mother, lie down!" and with very
+undignified and unladylike haste I had to embrace the earth, and
+remain there until the same voices would laughingly assure me that the
+danger was over, or one, more thoughtful than the rest, would come to
+give me a helping hand, and hope that the old lady was neither hit nor
+frightened. Several times in my wanderings on that eventful day, of
+which I confess to have a most confused remembrance, only knowing that
+I looked after many wounded men, I was ordered back, but each time my
+bag of bandages and comforts for the wounded proved my passport. While
+at the hospital I was chiefly of use looking after those, who, either
+from lack of hands or because their hurts were less serious, had to
+wait, pained and weary, until the kind-hearted doctors--who, however,
+_looked_ more like murderers--could attend to them. And the grateful
+words and smile which rewarded me for binding up a wound or giving
+cooling drink was a pleasure worth risking life for at any time. It
+was here that I received my only wound during the campaign. I threw
+myself too hastily on the ground, in obedience to the command of those
+around me, to escape a threatening shell, and fell heavily on the
+thumb of my right hand, dislocating it. It was bound up on the spot
+and did not inconvenience me much, but it has never returned to its
+proper shape.
+
+After this, first washing my hands in some sherry from lack of water,
+I went back to Cathcart's Hill, where I found my horse, and heard that
+the good-for-nothing lad, either frightened or tired of waiting, had
+gone away with the mules. I had to ride three miles after him, and
+then the only satisfaction I had arose from laying my horse-whip about
+his shoulders. After that, working my way round, how I can scarcely
+tell, I got to the extreme left attack, where General Eyre's division
+had been hotly engaged all day, and had suffered severely. I left my
+horse in charge of some men, and with no little difficulty, and at no
+little risk, crept down to where some wounded men lay, with whom I
+left refreshments. And then--it was growing late--I started for Spring
+Hill, where I heard all about the events of the luckless day from
+those who had seen them from posts of safety, while I, who had been in
+the midst of it all day, knew so little.
+
+On the following day some Irishmen of the 8th Royals brought me, in
+token of my having been among them, a Russian woman's dress and a poor
+pigeon, which they had brought away from one of the houses in the
+suburb where their regiment suffered so severely.
+
+But that evening of the 18th of June was a sad one, and the news that
+came in of those that had fallen were most heartrending. Both the
+leaders, who fell so gloriously before the Redan, had been very good
+to the mistress of Spring Hill. But a few days before the 18th, Col.
+Y---- had merrily declared that I should have a silver salver to hand
+about things upon, instead of the poor shabby one I had been reduced
+to; while Sir John C---- had been my kind patron for some years. It
+was in my house in Jamaica that Lady C---- had once lodged when her
+husband was stationed in that island. And when the recall home came,
+Lady C----, who, had she been like most women, would have shrunk from
+any exertion, declared that she was a soldier's wife and would
+accompany him. Fortunately the "Blenheim" was detained in the roads a
+few days after the time expected for her departure, and I put into its
+father's arms a little Scotchman, born within sight of the blue hills
+of Jamaica. And yet with these at home, the brave general--as I read
+in the _Times_ a few weeks later--displayed a courage amounting to
+rashness, and, sending away his aides-de-camp, rushed on to a certain
+death.
+
+On the following day, directly I heard of the armistice, I hastened to
+the scene of action, anxious to see once more the faces of those who
+had been so kind to me in life. That battle-field was a fearful sight
+for a woman to witness, and if I do not pray God that I may never see
+its like again, it is because I wish to be useful all my life, and it
+is in scenes of horror and distress that a woman can do so much. It
+was late in the afternoon, not, I think, until half-past four, that
+the Russians brought over the bodies of the two leaders of yesterday's
+assault. They had stripped Sir John of epaulettes, sword, and boots.
+Ah! how my heart felt for those at home who would so soon hear of this
+day's fatal work. It was on the following day, I think, that I saw
+them bury him near Cathcart's Hill, where his tent had been pitched.
+If I had been in the least humour for what was ludicrous, the looks
+and curiosity of the Russians who saw me during the armistice would
+have afforded me considerable amusement. I wonder what rank they
+assigned me.
+
+How true it is, as somebody has said, that misfortunes never come
+singly. N.B. Pleasures often do. For while we were dull enough at this
+great trouble, we had cholera raging around us, carrying off its
+victims of all ranks. There was great distress in the Sardinian camp
+on this account, and I soon lost another good customer, General E----,
+carried off by the same terrible plague. Before Mrs. E---- left the
+Crimea, she sent several useful things, kept back from the sale of the
+general's effects. At this sale I wanted to buy a useful waggon, but
+did not like to bid against Lord W----, who purchased it; but (I tell
+this anecdote to show how kind they all were to me) when his lordship
+heard of this he sent it over to Spring Hill, with a message that it
+was mine for a far lower price than he had given for it. And since my
+return home I have had to thank the same nobleman for still greater
+favours. But who, indeed, has not been kind to me?
+
+Within a week after General E----'s death, a still greater calamity
+happened. Lord Raglan died--that great soldier who had such iron
+courage, with the gentle smile and kind word that always show the
+good man. I was familiar enough with his person; for, although people
+did not know it in England, he was continually in the saddle looking
+after his suffering men, and scheming plans for their benefit. And the
+humblest soldier will remember that, let who might look stern and
+distant, the first man in the British army ever had a kind word to
+give him.
+
+During the time he was ill I was at head-quarters several times, and
+once his servants allowed me to peep into the room where their master
+lay. I do not think they knew that he was dying, but they seemed very
+sad and low--far more so than he for whom they feared. And on the day
+of his funeral I was there again. I never saw such heartfelt gloom as
+that which brooded on the faces of his attendants; but it was good to
+hear how they all, even the humblest, had some kind memory of the
+great general whom Providence had called from his post at such a
+season of danger and distress. And once again they let me into the
+room in which the coffin lay, and I timidly stretched out my hand and
+touched a corner of the union-jack which lay upon it; and then I
+watched it wind its way through the long lines of soldiery towards
+Kamiesch, while, ever and anon, the guns thundered forth in sorrow,
+not in anger. And for days after I could not help thinking of the
+"Caradoc," which was ploughing its way through the sunny sea with its
+sad burden.
+
+It was not in the nature of the British army to remain long dull, and
+before very long we went on gaily as ever, forgetting the terrible
+18th of June, or only remembering it to look forward to the next
+assault compensating for all. And once more the British Hotel was
+filled with a busy throng, and laughter and fun re-echoed through its
+iron rafters. Nothing of consequence was done in the front for weeks,
+possibly because Mr. Russell was taking holiday, and would not return
+until August.
+
+About this time the stores of the British Hotel were well filled, not
+only with every conceivable necessary of life, but with many of its
+most expensive luxuries. It was at this period that you could have
+asked for few things that I could not have supplied you with on the
+spot, or obtained for you, if you had a little patience and did not
+mind a few weeks' delay. Not only Spring Hill and Kadikoi, which--a
+poor place enough when we came--had grown into a town of stores, and
+had its market regulations and police, but the whole camp shared in
+this unusual plenty. Even the men could afford to despise salt meat
+and pork, and fed as well, if not better, than if they had been in
+quarters at home. And there were coffee-houses and places of amusement
+opened at Balaclava, and balls given in some of them, which raised my
+temper to an unwonted pitch, because I foresaw the dangers which they
+had for the young and impulsive; and sure enough they cost several
+officers their commissions. Right glad was I one day when the great
+purifier, Fire, burnt down the worst of these places and ruined its
+owner, a bad Frenchwoman. And the railway was in full work, and the
+great road nearly finished, and the old one passable, and the mules
+and horses looked in such fair condition, that you would scarcely have
+believed Farrier C----, of the Land Transport Corps, who would have
+told you then, and will tell you now, that he superintended, on one
+bleak morning of February, not six months agone, the task of throwing
+the corpses of one hundred and eight mules over the cliffs at Karanyi
+into the Black Sea beneath.
+
+Of course the summer introduced its own plagues, and among the worst
+of these were the flies. I shall never forget those Crimean flies, and
+most sincerely hope that, like the Patagonians, they are only to be
+found in one part of the world. Nature must surely have intended them
+for blackbeetles, and accidentally given them wings. There was no
+exterminating them--no thinning them--no escaping from them by night
+or by day. One of my boys confined himself almost entirely to laying
+baits and traps for their destruction, and used to boast that he
+destroyed them at the rate of a gallon a day; but I never noticed any
+perceptible decrease in their powers of mischief and annoyance. The
+officers in the front suffered terribly from them. One of my kindest
+customers, a lieutenant serving in the Royal Naval Brigade, who was a
+close relative of the Queen, whose uniform he wore, came to me in
+great perplexity. He evidently considered the fly nuisance the most
+trying portion of the campaign, and of far more consequence than the
+Russian shot and shell. "Mami," he said (he had been in the West
+Indies, and so called me by the familiar term used by the Creole
+children), "Mami, these flies respect nothing. Not content with eating
+my prog, they set to at night and make a supper of me," and his face
+showed traces of their attacks. "Confound them, they'll kill me, mami;
+they're everywhere, even in the trenches, and you'd suppose they
+wouldn't care to go there from choice. What can you do for me, mami?"
+
+Not much; but I rode down to Mr. B----'s store, at Kadikoi, where I
+was lucky in being able to procure a piece of muslin, which I pinned
+up (time was too precious to allow me to use needle and thread) into a
+mosquito net, with which the prince was delighted. He fell ill later
+in the summer, when I went up to his quarters and did all I could for
+him.
+
+As the summer wore on, busily passed by all of us at the British
+Hotel, rumours stronger than ever were heard of a great battle soon to
+be fought by the reinforcements which were known to have joined the
+Russian army. And I think that no one was much surprised when one
+pleasant August morning, at early dawn, heavy firing was heard towards
+the French position on the right, by the Tchernaya, and the stream of
+troops and on-lookers poured from all quarters in that direction.
+Prepared and loaded as usual, I was soon riding in the same direction,
+and saw the chief part of the morning's battle. I saw the Russians
+cross and recross the river. I saw their officers cheer and wave them
+on in the coolest, bravest manner, until they were shot down by
+scores. I was near enough to hear at times, in the lull of artillery,
+and above the rattle of the musketry, the excited cheers which told of
+a daring attack or a successful repulse; and beneath where I stood I
+could see--what the Russians could not--steadily drawn up, quiet and
+expectant, the squadrons of English and French cavalry, calmly yet
+impatiently waiting until the Russians' partial success should bring
+their sabres into play. But the contingency never happened; and we saw
+the Russians fall slowly back in good order, while the dark-plumed
+Sardinians and red-pantalooned French spread out in pursuit, and
+formed a picture so excitingly beautiful that we forgot the suffering
+and death they left behind. And then I descended with the rest into
+the field of battle.
+
+It was a fearful scene; but why repeat this remark. All death is
+trying to witness--even that of the good man who lays down his life
+hopefully and peacefully; but on the battle-field, when the poor body
+is torn and rent in hideous ways, and the scared spirit struggles to
+loose itself from the still strong frame that holds it tightly to the
+last, death is fearful indeed. It had come peacefully enough to some.
+They lay with half-opened eyes, and a quiet smile about the lips that
+showed their end to have been painless; others it had arrested in the
+heat of passion, and frozen on their pallid faces a glare of hatred
+and defiance that made your warm blood run cold. But little time had
+we to think of the dead, whose business it was to see after the dying,
+who might yet be saved. The ground was thickly cumbered with the
+wounded, some of them calm and resigned, others impatient and
+restless, a few filling the air with their cries of pain--all wanting
+water, and grateful to those who administered it, and more substantial
+comforts. You might see officers and strangers, visitors to the camp,
+riding about the field on this errand of mercy. And this,
+although--surely it could not have been intentional--Russian guns
+still played upon the scene of action. There were many others there,
+bent on a more selfish task. The plunderers were busy everywhere. It
+was marvellous to see how eagerly the French stripped the dead of what
+was valuable, not always, in their brutal work, paying much regard to
+the presence of a lady. Some of the officers, when I complained rather
+angrily, laughed, and said it was spoiling the Egyptians; but I _do_
+think the Israelites spared their enemies those garments, which,
+perhaps, were not so unmentionable in those days as they have since
+become.
+
+I attended to the wounds of many French and Sardinians, and helped to
+lift them into the ambulances, which came tearing up to the scene of
+action. I derived no little gratification from being able to dress the
+wounds of several Russians; indeed, they were as kindly treated as the
+others. One of them was badly shot in the lower jaw, and was beyond my
+or any human skill. Incautiously I inserted my finger into his mouth
+to feel where the ball had lodged, and his teeth closed upon it, in
+the agonies of death, so tightly that I had to call to those around to
+release it, which was not done until it had been bitten so deeply that
+I shall carry the scar with me to my grave. Poor fellow, he meant me
+no harm, for, as the near approach of death softened his features, a
+smile spread over his rough inexpressive face, and so he died.
+
+I attended another Russian, a handsome fellow, and an officer, shot in
+the side, who bore his cruel suffering with a firmness that was very
+noble. In return for the little use I was to him, he took a ring off
+his finger and gave it to me, and after I had helped to lift him into
+the ambulance he kissed my hand and smiled far more thanks than I had
+earned. I do not know whether he survived his wounds, but I fear not.
+Many others, on that day, gave me thanks in words the meaning of which
+was lost upon me, and all of them in that one common language of the
+whole world--smiles.
+
+I carried two patients off the field; one a French officer wounded on
+the hip, who chose to go back to Spring Hill and be attended by me
+there, and who, on leaving, told us that he was a relative of the
+Marshal (Pelissier); the other, a poor Cossack colt I found running
+round its dam, which lay beside its Cossack master dead, with its
+tongue hanging from its mouth. The colt was already wounded in the
+ears and fore-foot, and I was only just in time to prevent a French
+corporal who, perhaps for pity's sake, was preparing to give it it's
+_coup de grace_. I saved the poor thing by promising to give the
+Frenchman ten shillings if he would bring it down to the British
+Hotel, which he did that same evening. I attended to its hurts, and
+succeeded in rearing it, and it became a great pet at Spring Hill, and
+accompanied me to England.
+
+I picked up some trophies from the battle-field, but not many, and
+those of little value. I cannot bear the idea of plundering either the
+living or the dead; but I picked up a Russian metal cross, and took
+from the bodies of some of the poor fellows nothing of more value than
+a few buttons, which I severed from their coarse grey coats.
+
+So end my reminiscences of the battle of the Tchernaya, fought, as all
+the world knows, on the 16th of August, 1855.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    INSIDE SEBASTOPOL--THE LAST BOMBARDMENT OF
+    SEBASTOPOL--ON CATHCART'S HILL--RUMOURS IN THE CAMP--THE
+    ATTACK ON THE MALAKHOFF--THE OLD WORK AGAIN--A SUNDAY
+    EXCURSION--INSIDE "OUR" CITY--I AM TAKEN FOR A SPY, AND
+    THEREAT LOSE MY TEMPER--I VISIT THE REDAN, ETC.--MY
+    SHARE OF THE "PLUNDER."
+
+
+The three weeks following the battle of the Tchernaya were, I should
+think, some of the busiest and most eventful the world has ever seen.
+There was little doing at Spring Hill. Every one was either at his
+post, or too anxiously awaiting the issue of the last great
+bombardment to spend much time at the British Hotel. I think that I
+lost more of my patients and customers during those few weeks than
+during the whole previous progress of the siege. Scarce a night passed
+that I was not lulled to sleep with the heavy continuous roar of the
+artillery; scarce a morning dawned that the same sound did not usher
+in my day's work. The ear grew so accustomed during those weeks to the
+terrible roar, that when Sebastopol fell the sudden quiet seemed
+unnatural, and made us dull. And during the whole of this time the
+most perplexing rumours flew about, some having reference to the day
+of assault, the majority relative to the last great effort which it
+was supposed the Russians would make to drive us into the sea. I
+confess these latter rumours now and then caused me temporary
+uneasiness, Spring Hill being on the direct line of route which the
+actors in such a tragedy must take.
+
+I spent much of my time on Cathcart's Hill, watching, with a curiosity
+and excitement which became intense, the progress of the terrible
+bombardment. Now and then a shell would fall among the crowd of
+on-lookers which covered the hill; but it never disturbed us, so keen
+and feverish and so deadened to danger had the excitement and
+expectation made us.
+
+In the midst of the bombardment took place the important ceremony of
+distributing the Order of the Bath to those selected for that honour.
+I contrived to witness this ceremony very pleasantly; and although it
+cost me a day, I considered that I had fairly earned the pleasure. I
+was anxious to have some personal share in the affair, so I made, and
+forwarded to head-quarters, a cake which Gunter might have been at
+some loss to manufacture with the materials at my command, and which I
+adorned gaily with banners, flags, etc. I received great kindness from
+the officials at the ceremony, and from the officers--some of
+rank--who recognised me; indeed, I held quite a little _levée_ around
+my chair.
+
+Well, a few days after this ceremony, I thought the end of the world,
+instead of the war, was at hand, when every battery opened and poured
+a perfect hail of shot and shell upon the beautiful city which I had
+left the night before sleeping so calm and peaceful beneath the stars.
+The firing began at early dawn, and was fearful. Sleep was impossible;
+so I arose, and set out for my old station on Cathcart's Hill. And
+here, with refreshments for the anxious lookers-on, I spent most of my
+time, right glad of any excuse to witness the last scene of the siege.
+It was from this spot that I saw fire after fire break out in
+Sebastopol, and watched all night the beautiful yet terrible effect of
+a great ship blazing in the harbour, and lighting up the adjoining
+country for miles.
+
+The weather changed, as it often did in the Crimea, most capriciously;
+and the morning of the memorable 8th of September broke cold and
+wintry. The same little bird which had let me into so many secrets,
+also gave me a hint of what this day was pregnant with; and very early
+in the morning I was on horseback, with my bandages and refreshments,
+ready to repeat the work of the 18th of June last. A line of sentries
+forbade all strangers passing through without orders, even to
+Cathcart's Hill; but once more I found that my reputation served as a
+permit, and the officers relaxed the rule in my favour everywhere. So,
+early in the day, I was in my old spot, with my old appliances for the
+wounded and fatigued; little expecting, however, that this day would
+so closely resemble the day of the last attack in its disastrous
+results.
+
+It was noon before the cannonading suddenly ceased; and we saw, with a
+strange feeling of excitement, the French tumble out of their advanced
+trenches, and roll into the Malakhoff like a human flood. Onward they
+seemed to go into the dust and smoke, swallowed up by hundreds; but
+they never returned, and before long we saw workmen levelling parapets
+and filling up ditches, over which they drove, with headlong speed and
+impetuosity, artillery and ammunition-waggons, until there could be no
+doubt that the Malakhoff was taken, although the tide of battle still
+surged around it with violence, and wounded men were borne from it in
+large numbers. And before this, our men had made their attack, and the
+fearful assault of the Redan was going on, and failing. But I was soon
+too busy to see much, for the wounded were borne in even in greater
+numbers than at the last assault; whilst stragglers, slightly hurt,
+limped in, in fast-increasing numbers, and engrossed our attention. I
+now and then found time to ask them rapid questions; but they did not
+appear to know anything more than that everything had gone wrong. The
+sailors, as before, showed their gallantry, and even recklessness,
+conspicuously. The wounded of the ladder and sandbag parties came up
+even with a laugh, and joked about their hurts in the happiest
+conceivable manner.
+
+I saw many officers of the 97th wounded; and, as far as possible, I
+reserved my attentions for my old regiment, known so well in my native
+island. My poor 97th! their loss was terrible. I dressed the wound of
+one of its officers, seriously hit in the mouth; I attended to another
+wounded in the throat, and bandaged the hand of a third, terribly
+crushed by a rifle-bullet. In the midst of this we were often
+interrupted by those unwelcome and impartial Russian visitors--the
+shells. One fell so near that I thought my last hour was come; and,
+although I had sufficient firmness to throw myself upon the ground, I
+was so seriously frightened that I never thought of rising from my
+recumbent position until the hearty laugh of those around convinced me
+that the danger had passed by. Afterwards I picked up a piece of this
+huge shell, and brought it home with me.
+
+It was on this, as on every similar occasion, that I saw the _Times_
+correspondent eagerly taking down notes and sketches of the scene,
+under fire--listening apparently with attention to all the busy little
+crowd that surrounded him, but without laying down his pencil; and yet
+finding time, even in his busiest moment, to lend a helping hand to
+the wounded. It may have been on this occasion that his keen eye
+noticed me, and his mind, albeit engrossed with far more important
+memories, found room to remember me. I may well be proud of his
+testimony, borne so generously only the other day, and may well be
+excused for transcribing it from the columns of the _Times_:--"I have
+seen her go down, under fire, with her little store of creature
+comforts for our wounded men; and a more tender or skilful hand about
+a wound or broken limb could not be found among our best surgeons. I
+saw her at the assault on the Redan, at the Tchernaya, at the fall of
+Sebastopol, laden, not with plunder, good old soul! but with wine,
+bandages, and food for the wounded or the prisoners."
+
+I remained on Cathcart's Hill far into the night, and watched the city
+blazing beneath us, awe-struck at the terrible sight, until the bitter
+wind found its way through my thin clothing, and chilled me to the
+bone; and not till then did I leave for Spring Hill. I had little
+sleep that night. The night was made a ruddy lurid day with the glare
+of the blazing town; while every now and then came reports which shook
+the earth to its centre. And yet I believe very many of the soldiers,
+wearied with their day's labour, slept soundly throughout that
+terrible night, and awoke to find their work completed: for in the
+night, covered by the burning city, Sebastopol was left, a heap of
+ruins, to its victors; and before noon on the following day, none but
+dead and dying Russians were in the south side of the once famous and
+beautiful mistress-city of the Euxine.
+
+The good news soon spread through the camp. It gave great pleasure;
+but I almost think the soldiers would have been better pleased had the
+Russians delayed their parting twelve hours longer, and given the
+Highlanders and their comrades a chance of retrieving the disasters of
+the previous day. Nothing else could wipe away the soreness of defeat,
+or compensate for the better fortune which had befallen our allies the
+French.
+
+The news of the evacuation of Sebastopol soon carried away all traces
+of yesterday's fatigue. For weeks past I had been offering bets to
+every one that I would not only be the first woman to enter
+Sebastopol from the English lines, but that I would be the first to
+carry refreshments into the fallen city. And now the time I had longed
+for had come. I borrowed some mules from the Land Transport
+Corps--mine were knocked up by yesterday's work--and loading them with
+good things, started off with my partner and some other friends early
+on that memorable Sunday morning for Cathcart's Hill.
+
+When I found that strict orders had been given to admit no one inside
+Sebastopol, I became quite excited; and making my way to General
+Garrett's quarters, I made such an earnest representation of what I
+considered my right that I soon obtained a pass, of which the
+following is a copy:--
+
+    "Pass Mrs. Seacole and her attendants, with refreshments
+    for officers and soldiers in the Redan and in
+    Sebastopol.
+
+        "Garrett, M.G.
+
+            "Cathcart's Hill, Sept. 9, 1855."
+
+So many attached themselves to my staff, becoming for the nonce my
+attendants, that I had some difficulty at starting; but at last I
+passed all the sentries safely, much to the annoyance of many
+officers, who were trying every conceivable scheme to evade them, and
+entered the city. I can give you no very clear description of its
+condition on that Sunday morning, a year and a half ago. Many parts of
+it were still blazing furiously--explosions were taking place in all
+directions--every step had a score of dangers; and yet curiosity and
+excitement carried us on and on. I was often stopped to give
+refreshments to officers and men, who had been fasting for hours.
+Some, on the other hand, had found their way to Russian cellars; and
+one body of men were most ingloriously drunk, and playing the wildest
+pranks. They were dancing, yelling, and singing--some of them with
+Russian women's dresses fastened round their waists, and old bonnets
+stuck upon their heads.
+
+I was offered many trophies. All plunder was stopped by the sentries,
+and confiscated, so that the soldiers could afford to be liberal. By one
+I was offered a great velvet sofa; another pressed a huge arm-chair,
+which had graced some Sebastopol study, upon me; while a third begged my
+acceptance of a portion of a grand piano. What I did carry away was very
+unimportant: a gaily-decorated altar-candle, studded with gold and
+silver stars, which the present Commander-in-Chief condescended to
+accept as a Sebastopol memorial; an old cracked China teapot, which in
+happier times had very likely dispensed pleasure to many a small
+tea-party; a cracked bell, which had rung many to prayers during the
+siege, and which I bore away on my saddle; and a parasol, given me by a
+drunken soldier. He had a silk skirt on, and torn lace upon his wrists,
+and he came mincingly up, holding the parasol above his head, and
+imitating the walk of an affected lady, to the vociferous delight of his
+comrades. And all this, and much more, in that fearful charnel city,
+with death and suffering on every side.
+
+It was very hazardous to pass along some of the streets exposed to the
+fire of the Russians on the north side of the harbour. We had to wait
+and watch our opportunity, and then gallop for it. Some of us had
+close shaves of being hit. More than this, fires still kept breaking
+out around; while mines and fougasses not unfrequently exploded from
+unknown causes. We saw two officers emerge from a heap of ruins,
+covered and almost blinded with smoke and dust, from some such
+unlooked-for explosion. With considerable difficulty we succeeded in
+getting into the quarter of the town held by the French, where I was
+nearly getting into serious trouble.
+
+I had loitered somewhat behind my party, watching, with pardonable
+curiosity, the adroitness with which a party of French were plundering
+a house; and by the time my curiosity had been satisfied, I found
+myself quite alone, my retinue having preceded me by some few hundred
+yards. This would have been of little consequence, had not an American
+sailor lad, actuated either by mischief or folly, whispered to the
+Frenchmen that I was a Russian spy; and had they not, instead of
+laughing at him, credited his assertion, and proceeded to arrest me.
+Now, such a charge was enough to make a lion of a lamb; so I refused
+positively to dismount, and made matters worse by knocking in the cap
+of the first soldier who laid hands upon me, with the bell that hung
+at my saddle. Upon this, six or seven tried to force me to the
+guard-house in rather a rough manner, while I resisted with all my
+force, screaming out for Mr. Day, and using the bell for a weapon. How
+I longed for a better one I need not tell the reader. In the midst of
+this scene came up a French officer, whom I recognised as the patient
+I had taken to Spring Hill after the battle of the Tchernaya, and who
+took my part at once, and ordered them to release me. Although I
+rather weakened my cause, it was most natural that, directly I was
+released, I should fly at the varlet who had caused me this trouble;
+and I did so, using my bell most effectually, and aided, when my party
+returned, by their riding-whips.
+
+This little adventure took up altogether so much time that, when the
+French soldiers had made their apologies to me, and I had returned the
+compliment to the one whose head had been dented by my bell, it was
+growing late, and we made our way back to Cathcart's Hill. On the way,
+a little French soldier begged hard of me to buy a picture, which had
+been cut from above the altar of some church in Sebastopol. It was too
+dark to see much of his prize, but I ultimately became its possessor,
+and brought it home with me. It is some eight or ten feet in length,
+and represents, I should think, the Madonna. I am no judge of such
+things, but I think, although the painting is rather coarse, that the
+face of the Virgin, and the heads of Cherubim that fill the cloud from
+which she is descending, are soft and beautiful. There is a look of
+divine calmness and heavenly love in the Madonna's face which is very
+striking; and, perhaps, during the long and awful siege many a knee
+was bent in worship before it, and many a heart found comfort in its
+soft loving gaze.
+
+On the following day I again entered Sebastopol, and saw still more of
+its horrors. But I have refrained from describing so many scenes of
+woe, that I am loth to dwell much on these. The very recollection of
+that woeful hospital, where thousands of dead and dying had been left
+by the retreating Russians, is enough to unnerve the strongest and
+sicken the most experienced. I would give much if I had never seen
+that harrowing sight. I believe some Englishmen were found in it
+alive; but it was as well that they did not live to tell their
+fearful experience.
+
+I made my way into the Redan also, although every step was dangerous,
+and took from it some brown bread, which seemed to have been left in
+the oven by the baker when he fled.
+
+Before many days were passed, some Frenchwomen opened houses in
+Sebastopol; but in that quarter of the town held by the English the
+prospect was not sufficiently tempting for me to follow their example,
+and so I saw out the remainder of the campaign from my old quarters at
+Spring Hill.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    HOLIDAY IN THE CAMP--A NEW ENEMY, TIME--AMUSEMENTS IN
+    THE CRIMEA--MY SHARE IN THEM--DINNER AT SPRING HILL--AT
+    THE RACES--CHRISTMAS DAY IN THE BRITISH HOTEL--NEW
+    YEAR'S DAY IN THE HOSPITAL.
+
+
+Well, the great work was accomplished--Sebastopol was taken. The
+Russians had retired sullenly to their stronghold on the north side of
+the harbour, from which, every now and then, they sent a few vain shot
+and shell, which sent the amateurs in the streets of Sebastopol
+scampering, but gave the experienced no concern. In a few days the
+camp could find plenty to talk about in their novel position--and what
+then? What was to be done? More fighting? Another equally terrible and
+lengthy siege of the north? That was the business of a few at
+head-quarters and in council at home, between whom the electric wires
+flashed many a message. In the meanwhile, the real workers applied
+themselves to plan amusements, and the same energy and activity which
+had made Sebastopol a heap of ruins and a well-filled cemetery--which
+had dug the miles of trenches, and held them when made against a
+desperate foe--which had manned the many guns, and worked them so
+well, set to work as eager to kill their present enemy, Time, as they
+had lately been to destroy their fled enemies, the Russians.
+
+All who were before Sebastopol will long remember the beautiful autumn
+which succeeded to so eventful a summer, and ushered in so pleasantly
+the second winter of the campaign. It was appreciated as only those
+who earn the right to enjoyment can enjoy relaxation. The camp was
+full of visitors of every rank. They thronged the streets of
+Sebastopol, sketching its ruins and setting up photographic apparatus,
+in contemptuous indifference of the shot with which the Russians
+generally favoured every conspicuous group.
+
+Pleasure was hunted keenly. Cricket matches, pic-nics, dinner parties,
+races, theatricals, all found their admirers. My restaurant was always
+full, and once more merry laughter was heard, and many a dinner party
+was held, beneath the iron roof of the British Hotel. Several were
+given in compliment to our allies, and many distinguished Frenchmen
+have tested my powers of cooking. You might have seen at one party
+some of their most famous officers. At once were present a Prince of
+the Imperial family of France, the Duc de Rouchefoucault, and a
+certain corporal in the French service, who was perhaps the best known
+man in the whole army, the Viscount Talon. They expressed themselves
+highly gratified at the _carte_, and perhaps were not a little
+surprised as course after course made its appearance, and to soup and
+fish succeeded turkeys, saddle of mutton, fowls, ham, tongue, curry,
+pastry of many sorts, custards, jelly, blanc-mange, and olives. I took
+a peculiar pride in doing my best when they were present, for I knew a
+little of the secrets of the French commissariat. I wonder if the
+world will ever know more. I wonder if the system of secresy which has
+so long kept veiled the sufferings of the French army before
+Sebastopol will ever yield to truth. I used to guess something of
+those sufferings when I saw, even after the fall of Sebastopol,
+half-starved French soldiers prowling about my store, taking eagerly
+even what the Turks rejected as unfit for human food; and no one could
+accuse _them_ of squeamishness. I cannot but believe that in some
+desks or bureaux lie notes or diaries which shall one day be given to
+the world; and when this happens, the terrible distresses of the
+English army will pall before the unheard-of sufferings of the French.
+It is true that they carried from Sebastopol the lion's share of
+glory. My belief is that they deserved it, having borne by far a
+larger proportion of suffering.
+
+There were few dinners at Spring Hill at which the guests did not show
+their appreciation of their hostess's labour by drinking her health;
+and at the dinner I have above alluded to, the toast was responded to
+with such enthusiasm that I felt compelled to put my acknowledgments
+into the form of a little speech, which Talon interpreted to his
+countrymen. The French Prince was, after this occasion, several times
+at the British Hotel. He was there once when some Americans were
+received by me with scarcely that cordiality which I have been told
+distinguished my reception of guests; and upon their leaving I told
+him--quite forgetting his own connection with America--of my prejudice
+against the Yankees. He heard me for a little while, and then he
+interrupted me.
+
+"Tenez! Madame Seacole, I too am American a little."
+
+What a pity I was not born a countess! I am sure I should have made a
+capital courtier. Witness my impromptu answer:--
+
+"I should never have guessed it, Prince."--And he seemed amused.
+
+With the theatricals directly I had nothing to do. Had I been a little
+younger the companies would very likely have been glad of me, for no
+one liked to sacrifice their beards to become Miss Julia or plain Mary
+Ann; and even the beardless subalterns had voices which no coaxing
+could soften down. But I lent them plenty of dresses; indeed, it was
+the only airing which a great many gay-coloured muslins had in the
+Crimea. How was I to know when I brought them what camp-life was? And
+in addition to this, I found it necessary to convert my kitchen into a
+temporary green-room, where, to the wonderment, and perhaps scandal,
+of the black cook, the ladies of the company of the 1st Royals were
+taught to manage their petticoats with becoming grace, and neither to
+show their awkward booted ankles, nor trip themselves up over their
+trains. It was a difficult task in many respects. Although I laced
+them in until they grew blue in the face, their waists were a disgrace
+to the sex; while--crinoline being unknown then--my struggles to give
+them becoming _embonpoint_ may be imagined. It was not until a year
+later that _Punch_ thought of using a clothes-basket; and I would have
+given much for such a hint when I was dresser to the theatrical
+company of the 1st Royals. The hair was another difficulty. To be
+sure, there was plenty in the camp, only it was in the wrong place,
+and many an application was made to me for a set of curls. However, I
+am happy to say I am not become a customer of the wigmakers yet.
+
+My recollections of hunting in the Crimea are confined to seeing
+troops of horsemen sweep by with shouts and yells after some wretched
+dog. Once I was very nearly frightened out of my wits--my first
+impression being that the Russians had carried into effect their old
+threat of driving us into the sea--by the startling appearance of a
+large body of horsemen tearing down the hill after, apparently,
+nothing. However I discovered in good time that, in default of vermin,
+they were chasing a brother officer with a paper bag.
+
+My experience of Crimean races are perfect, for I was present, in the
+character of cantiniere, at all the more important meetings. Some of
+them took place before Christmas, and some after; but I shall exhaust
+the subject at once. I had no little difficulty to get the things on
+to the course; and in particular, after I had sat up the whole night
+making preparations for the December races, at the Monastery of St.
+George, I could not get my poor mules over the rough country, and
+found myself, in the middle of the day, some miles from the course. At
+last I gave it up as hopeless, and, dismounting, sat down by the
+roadside to consider how I could possibly dispose of the piles of
+sandwiches, bread, cheese, pies, and tarts, which had been prepared
+for the hungry spectators. At last, some officers, who expected me
+long before, came to look after me, and by their aid we reached the
+course.
+
+I was better off at the next meeting, for a kind-hearted Major of
+Artillery provided me with a small bell-tent that was very useful, and
+enabled me to keep my stores out of reach of the light-fingered
+gentry, who were as busy in the Crimea as at Epsom or Hampton Court.
+Over this tent waved the flag of the British Hotel, but, during the
+day, it was struck, for an accident happening to one Captain D----, he
+was brought to my tent insensible, where I quickly improvised a couch
+of some straw, covered with the Union Jack, and brought him round. I
+mention this trifle to show how ready of contrivance a little
+campaigning causes one to become. I had several patients in
+consequence of accidents at the races. Nor was I altogether free from
+accidents myself. On the occasion of the races by the Tchernaya, after
+the armistice, my cart, on turning a sudden bend in the steep track,
+upset, and the crates, containing plates and dishes, rolled over and
+over until their contents were completely broken up; so that I was
+reduced to hand about sandwiches, etc., on broken pieces of
+earthenware and scraps of paper. I saved some glasses, but not many,
+and some of the officers were obliged to drink out of stiff paper
+twisted into funnel-shaped glasses.
+
+It was astonishing how well the managers of these Crimean races had
+contrived to imitate the old familiar scenes at home. You might well
+wonder where the racing saddles and boots, and silk caps and jackets
+had come from; but our connection with England was very different to
+what it had been when I first came to the Crimea, and many a wife and
+sister's fingers had been busy making the racing gear for the Crimea
+meetings. And in order that the course should still more closely
+resemble Ascot or Epsom, some soldiers blackened their faces and came
+out as Ethiopian serenaders admirably, although it would puzzle the
+most ingenious to guess where they got their wigs and banjoes from. I
+caught one of them behind my tent in the act of knocking off the neck
+of a bottle of champagne, and, paralysed by the wine's hasty exit, the
+only excuse he offered was, that he wanted to know if the officers'
+luxury was better than rum.
+
+A few weeks before Christmas, happened that fearful explosion, in the
+French ammunition park, which destroyed so many lives. We had
+experienced nothing at all like it before. The earth beneath us, even
+at the distance of three miles, reeled and trembled with the shock;
+and so great was the force of the explosion, that a piece of stone was
+hurled with some violence against the door of the British Hotel. We
+all felt for the French very much, although I do not think that the
+armies agreed quite so well after the taking of the Malakhoff, and the
+unsuccessful assault upon the Redan, as they had done previously. I
+saw several instances of unpleasantness and collision, arising from
+allusions to sore points. One, in particular, occurred in my store.
+
+The French, when they wanted--it was very seldom--to wound the pride
+of the English soldiery, used to say significantly, in that jargon by
+which the various nations in the Crimea endeavoured to obviate the
+consequences of what occurred at the Tower of Babel, some time ago,
+"Malakhoff bono--Redan no bono." And this, of course, usually led to
+recriminatory statements, and history was ransacked to find something
+consolatory to English pride. Once I noticed a brawny man, of the Army
+Works Corps, bringing a small French Zouave to my canteen, evidently
+with the view of standing treat. The Frenchman seemed mischievously
+inclined, and, probably relying upon the good humour on the
+countenance of his gigantic companion, began a little playful
+badinage, ending with the taunt of "Redan, no bono--Redan, no bono." I
+never saw any man look so helplessly angry as the Englishman did. For
+a few minutes he seemed absolutely rooted to the ground. Of course he
+could have crushed his mocking friend with ease, but how could he
+answer his taunt. All at once, however, a happy thought struck him,
+and rushing up to the Zouave, he caught him round the waist and threw
+him down, roaring out, "Waterloo was bono--Waterloo was bono." It was
+as much as the people on the premises could do to part them, so
+convulsed were we all with laughter.
+
+And before Christmas, occurred my first and last attack of illness in
+the Crimea. It was not of much consequence, nor should I mention it
+but to show the kindness of my soldier-friends. I think it arose from
+the sudden commencement of winter, for which I was but poorly
+provided. However, I soon received much sympathy and many presents of
+warm clothing, etc.; but the most delicate piece of attention was
+shown me by one of the Sappers and Miners, who, hearing the report
+that I was dead, positively came down to Spring Hill to take my
+measure for a coffin. This may seem a questionable compliment, but I
+really felt flattered and touched with such a mark of thoughtful
+attention. Very few in the Crimea had the luxury of any better coffin
+than a blanket-shroud, and it was very good of the grateful fellow to
+determine that his old friend, the mistress of Spring Hill, should
+have an honour conceded to so very few of the illustrious dead before
+Sebastopol.
+
+So Christmas came, and with it pleasant memories of home and of home
+comforts. With it came also news of home--some not of the most
+pleasant description--and kind wishes from absent friends. "A merry
+Christmas to you," writes one, "and many of them. Although you will
+not write to us, we see your name frequently in the newspapers, from
+which we judge that you are strong and hearty. All your old Jamaica
+friends are delighted to hear of you, and say that you are an honour
+to the Isle of Springs."
+
+I wonder if the people of other countries are as fond of carrying with
+them everywhere their home habits as the English. I think not. I think
+there was something purely and essentially English in the
+determination of the camp to spend the Christmas-day of 1855 after the
+good old "home" fashion. It showed itself weeks before the eventful
+day. In the dinner parties which were got up--in the orders sent to
+England--in the supplies which came out, and in the many applications
+made to the hostess of the British Hotel for plum-puddings and
+mince-pies. The demand for them, and the material necessary to
+manufacture them, was marvellous. I can fancy that if returns could be
+got at of the flour, plums, currants, and eggs consumed on
+Christmas-day in the out-of-the-way Crimean peninsula, they would
+astonish us. One determination appeared to have taken possession of
+every mind--to spend the festive day with the mirth and jollity which
+the changed prospect of affairs warranted; and the recollection of a
+year ago, when death and misery were the camp's chief guests, only
+served to heighten this resolve.
+
+For three weeks previous to Christmas-day, my time was fully occupied
+in making preparations for it. Pages of my books are filled with
+orders for plum-puddings and mince-pies, besides which I sold an
+immense quantity of raw material to those who were too far off to send
+down for the manufactured article on Christmas-day, and to such
+purchasers I gave a plain recipe for their guidance. Will the reader
+take any interest in my Crimean Christmas-pudding? It was plain, but
+decidedly good. However, you shall judge for yourself:--"One pound of
+flour, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a pound
+of fat pork, chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little
+cinnamon or chopped lemon, half-pint of milk or water; mix these well
+together, and boil four hours."
+
+From an early hour in the morning until long after the night had set
+in, were I and my cooks busy endeavouring to supply the great demand
+for Christmas fare. We had considerable difficulty in keeping our
+engagements, but by substituting mince-pies for plum-puddings, in a
+few cases, we succeeded. The scene in the crowded store, and even in
+the little over-heated kitchen, with the officers' servants, who came
+in for their masters' dinners, cannot well be described. Some were
+impatient themselves, others dreaded their masters' impatience as the
+appointed dinner hour passed by--all combined by entreaties, threats,
+cajolery, and fun to drive me distracted. Angry cries for the major's
+plum-pudding, which was to have been ready an hour ago, alternated
+with an entreaty that I should cook the captain's mince-pies to a
+turn--"Sure, he likes them well done, ma'am. Bake 'em as brown as your
+own purty face, darlint."
+
+I did not get my dinner until eight o'clock, and then I dined in peace
+off a fine wild turkey or bustard, shot for me on the marshes by the
+Tchernaya. It weighed twenty-two pounds, and, although somewhat coarse
+in colour, had a capital flavour.
+
+Upon New Year's-day I had another large cooking of plum-puddings and
+mince-pies; this time upon my own account. I took them to the hospital
+of the Land Transport Corps, to remind the patients of the home
+comforts they longed so much for. It was a sad sight to see the once
+fine fellows, in their blue gowns, lying quiet and still, and reduced
+to such a level of weakness and helplessness. They all seemed glad for
+the little home tokens I took them.
+
+There was one patient who had been a most industrious and honest
+fellow, and who did not go into the hospital until long and wearing
+illness compelled him. I was particularly anxious to look after him,
+but I found him very weak and ill. I stayed with him until evening,
+and before I left him, kind fancy had brought to his bedside his wife
+and children from his village-home in England, and I could hear him
+talking to them in a low and joyful tone. Poor, poor fellow! the New
+Year so full of hope and happiness had dawned upon him, but he did not
+live to see the wild flowers spring up peacefully through the
+war-trodden sod before Sebastopol.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    NEW YEAR IN THE CRIMEA--GOOD NEWS--THE ARMISTICE--BARTER
+    WITH THE RUSSIANS--WAR AND PEACE--TIDINGS OF
+    PEACE--EXCURSIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE CRIMEA--TO
+    SIMPHEROPOL, BAKTCHISERAI, ETC.--THE TROOPS BEGIN TO
+    LEAVE THE CRIMEA--FRIENDS' FAREWELLS--THE CEMETERIES--WE
+    REMOVE FROM SPRING HILL TO BALACLAVA--ALARMING SACRIFICE
+    OF OUR STOCK--A LAST GLIMPSE OF SEBASTOPOL--HOME!
+
+
+Before the New Year was far advanced we all began to think of going
+home, making sure that peace would soon be concluded. And never did
+more welcome message come anywhere than that which brought us
+intelligence of the armistice, and the firing, which had grown more
+and more slack lately, ceased altogether. Of course the army did not
+desire peace because they had any distaste for fighting; so far from
+it, I believe the only more welcome intelligence would have been news
+of a campaign in the field, but they were most heartily weary of
+sieges, and the prospect of another year before the gloomy north of
+Sebastopol damped the ardour of the most sanguine. Before the
+armistice was signed, the Russians and their old foes made advances of
+friendship, and the banks of the Tchernaya used to be thronged with
+strangers, and many strange acquaintances were thus began. I was one
+of the first to ride down to the Tchernaya, and very much delighted
+seemed the Russians to see an English woman. I wonder if they thought
+they all had my complexion. I soon entered heartily into the then
+current amusement--that of exchanging coin, etc., with the Russians. I
+stole a march upon my companions by making the sign of the cross upon
+my bosom, upon which a Russian threw me, in exchange for some pence, a
+little metal figure of some ugly saint. Then we wrapped up halfpence
+in clay, and received coins of less value in exchange. Seeing a
+soldier eating some white bread, I made signs of wanting some, and
+threw over a piece of money. I had great difficulty in making the man
+understand me, but after considerable pantomime, with surprise in his
+round bullet eyes, he wrapped up his bread in some paper, then coated
+it with clay and sent it over to me. I thought it would look well
+beside my brown bread taken from the strange oven in the terrible
+Redan, and that the two would typify war and peace. There was a great
+traffic going on in such things, and a wag of an officer, who could
+talk Russian imperfectly, set himself to work to persuade an innocent
+Russian that I was his wife, and having succeeded in doing so promptly
+offered to dispose of me for the medal hanging at his breast.
+
+The last firing of any consequence was the salutes with which the good
+tidings of peace were received by army and navy. After this soon began
+the home-going with happy faces and light hearts, and some kind
+thoughts and warm tears for the comrades left behind.
+
+I was very glad to hear of peace, also, although it must have been
+apparent to every one that it would cause our ruin. We had lately made
+extensive additions to our store and out-houses--our shelves were
+filled with articles laid in at a great cost, and which were now
+unsaleable, and which it would be equally impossible to carry home.
+Everything, from our stud of horses and mules down to our latest
+consignments from home, must be sold for any price; and, as it
+happened, for many things, worth a year ago their weight in gold, no
+purchaser could now be found. However, more of this hereafter.
+
+Before leaving the Crimea, I made various excursions into the
+interior, visiting Simpheropol and Baktchiserai. I travelled to
+Simpheropol with a pretty large party, and had a very amusing journey.
+My companions were young and full of fun, and tried hard to persuade
+the Russians that I was Queen Victoria, by paying me the most absurd
+reverence. When this failed they fell back a little, and declared that
+I was the Queen's first cousin. Anyhow, they attracted crowds about
+me, and I became quite a lioness in the streets of Simpheropol, until
+the arrival of some Highlanders in their uniform cut me out.
+
+My excursion to Baktchiserai was still more amusing and pleasant. I
+found it necessary to go to beat up a Russian merchant, who, after the
+declaration of peace, had purchased stores of us, and some young
+officers made up a party for the purpose. We hired an araba, filled it
+with straw, and some boxes to sit upon, and set out very early, with
+two old umbrellas to shield us from the mid-day sun and the night
+dews. We had with us a hamper carefully packed, before parting, with a
+cold duck, some cold meat, a tart, etc. The Tartar's two horses were
+soon knocked up, and the fellow obtained a third at a little village,
+and so we rolled on until mid-day, when, thoroughly exhausted, we left
+our clumsy vehicle and carried our hamper beneath the shade of a
+beautiful cherry-tree, and determined to lunch. Upon opening it the
+first thing that met our eyes was a fine rat, who made a speedy
+escape. Somewhat gravely, we proceeded to unpack its contents, without
+caring to express our fears to one another, and quite soon enough we
+found them realized. How or where the rat had gained access to our
+hamper it was impossible to say, but he had made no bad use of his
+time, and both wings of the cold duck had flown, while the tart was
+considerably mangled. Sad discovery this for people who, although,
+hungry, were still squeamish. We made out as well as we could with the
+cold beef, and gave the rest to our Tartar driver, who had apparently
+no disinclination to eating after the rat, and would very likely have
+despised us heartily for such weakness. After dinner we went on more
+briskly, and succeeded in reaching Baktchiserai. My journey was
+perfectly unavailing. I could not find my debtor at home, and if I had
+I was told it would take three weeks before the Russian law would
+assist me to recover my claim. Determined, however, to have some
+compensation, I carried off a raven, who had been croaking angrily at
+my intrusion. Before we had been long on our homeward journey,
+however, Lieut. C---- sat upon it, of course accidentally, and we
+threw it to its relatives--the crows.
+
+As the spring advanced, the troops began to move away at a brisk pace.
+As they passed the Iron House upon the Col--old for the Crimea, where
+so much of life's action had been compressed into so short a space of
+time--they would stop and give us a parting cheer, while very often
+the band struck up some familiar tune of that home they were so gladly
+seeking. And very often the kind-hearted officers would find time to
+run into the British Hotel to bid us good-bye, and give us a farewell
+shake of the hand; for you see war, like death, is a great leveller,
+and mutual suffering and endurance had made us all friends. "My dear
+Mrs. Seacole, and my dear Mr. Day," wrote one on a scrap of paper left
+on the counter, "I have called here four times this day, to wish you
+good-bye. I am so sorry I was not fortunate enough to see you. I shall
+still hope to see you to-morrow morning. We march at seven a.m."
+
+And yet all this going home seemed strange and somewhat sad, and
+sometimes I felt that I could not sympathise with the glad faces and
+happy hearts of those who were looking forward to the delights of
+home, and the joy of seeing once more the old familiar faces
+remembered so fondly in the fearful trenches and the hard-fought
+battle-fields. Now and then we would see a lounger with a blank face,
+taking no interest in the bustle of departure, and with him I
+acknowledged to have more fellow-feeling than with the others, for he,
+as well as I, clearly had no home to go to. He was a soldier by choice
+and necessity, as well as by profession. He had no home, no loved
+friends; the peace would bring no particular pleasure to him, whereas
+war and action were necessary to his existence, gave him excitement,
+occupation, the chance of promotion. Now and then, but seldom,
+however, you came across such a disappointed one. Was it not so with
+me? Had I not been happy through the months of toil and danger, never
+knowing what fear or depression was, finding every moment of the day
+mortgaged hours in advance, and earning sound sleep and contentment by
+sheer hard work? What better or happier lot could possibly befall me?
+And, alas! how likely was it that my present occupation gone, I might
+long in vain for another so stirring and so useful. Besides which, it
+was pretty sure that I should go to England poorer than I left it,
+and although I was not ashamed of poverty, beginning life again in
+the autumn--I mean late in the summer of life--is hard up-hill work.
+
+Peace concluded, the little jealousies which may have sprung up
+between the French and their allies seemed forgotten, and every one
+was anxious, ere the parting came, to make the most of the time yet
+left in improving old friendships and founding new. Among others, the
+47th, encamped near the Woronzoff Road, gave a grand parting
+entertainment to a large company of their French neighbours, at which
+many officers of high rank were present. I was applied to by the
+committee of management to superintend the affair, and, for the last
+time in the Crimea, the health of Madame Seacole was proposed and duly
+honoured. I had grown so accustomed to the honour that I had no
+difficulty in returning thanks in a speech which Colonel B----
+interpreted amid roars of laughter to the French guests.
+
+As the various regiments moved off, I received many acknowledgments
+from those who thought they owed me gratitude. Little presents, warm
+farewell words, kind letters full of grateful acknowledgments for
+services so small that I had forgotten them long, long ago--how easy
+it is to reach warm hearts!--little thoughtful acts of kindness, even
+from the humblest. And these touched me the most. I value the letters
+received from the working men far more than the testimonials of their
+officers. I had nothing to gain from the former, and can point to
+their testimony fearlessly. I am strongly tempted to insert some of
+these acknowledgments, but I will confine myself to one:--
+
+    "Camp, near Karani, June 16, 1856.
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--As you are about to leave the
+    Crimea, I avail myself of the only opportunity which may
+    occur for some time, to acknowledge my gratitude to you,
+    and to thank you for the kindness which I, in common
+    with many others, received at your hands, when attacked
+    with cholera in the spring of 1855. But I have no
+    language to do it suitably.
+
+    "I am truly sensible that your kindness far exceeded my
+    claims upon your sympathy. It is said by some of your
+    friends, I hope truly, that you are going to England.
+    There can be none from the Crimea more welcome there,
+    for your kindness in the sick-tent, and your heroism in
+    the battle-field, have endeared you to the whole army.
+
+    "I am sure when her most gracious Majesty the Queen
+    shall have become acquainted with the service you have
+    gratuitously rendered to so many of her brave soldiers,
+    her generous heart will thank you. For you have been an
+    instrument in the hands of the Almighty to preserve many
+    a gallant heart to the empire, to fight and win her
+    battles, if ever again war may become a necessity.
+    Please to accept this from your most grateful humble
+    servant,
+
+        "W. J. Tynan."
+
+But I had other friends in the Crimea--friends who could never thank
+me. Some of them lay in their last sleep, beneath indistinguishable
+mounds of earth; some in the half-filled trenches, a few beneath the
+blue waters of the Euxine. I might in vain attempt to gather the wild
+flowers which sprung up above many of their graves, but I knew where
+some lay, and could visit their last homes on earth. And to all the
+cemeteries where friends rested so calmly, sleeping well after a
+life's work nobly done, I went many times, lingering long over many a
+mound that bore the names of those whom I had been familiar with in
+life, thinking of what they had been, and what I had known of them.
+Over some I planted shrubs and flowers, little lilac trees, obtained
+with no small trouble, and flowering evergreens, which looked quite
+gay and pretty ere I left, and may in time become great trees, and
+witness strange scenes, or be cut down as fuel for another besieging
+army--who can tell? And from many graves I picked up pebbles, and
+plucked simple wild-flowers, or tufts of grass, as memorials for
+relatives at home. How pretty the cemeteries used to look beneath the
+blue peaceful sky; neatly enclosed with stone walls, and full of the
+grave-stones reared by friends over friends. I met many here,
+thoughtfully taking their last look of the resting-places of those
+they knew and loved. I saw many a proud head bowed down above them. I
+knew that many a proud heart laid aside its pride here, and stood in
+the presence of death, humble and childlike. And by the clasped hand
+and moistened eye, I knew that from many a heart sped upward a
+grateful prayer to the Providence which had thought fit in his
+judgment to take some, and in his mercy to spare the rest.
+
+Some three weeks before the Crimea was finally evacuated, we moved
+from our old quarters to Balaclava, where we had obtained permission
+to fit up a store for the short time which would elapse before the
+last red coat left Russian soil. The poor old British Hotel! We could
+do nothing with it. The iron house was pulled down, and packed up for
+conveyance home, but the Russians got all of the out-houses and sheds
+which was not used as fuel. All the kitchen fittings and stoves, that
+had cost us so much, fell also into their hands. I only wish some cook
+worthy to possess them has them now. We could sell nothing. Our horses
+were almost given away, our large stores of provisions, etc., were at
+any one's service. It makes my heart sick to talk of the really
+alarming sacrifices we made. The Russians crowded down ostensibly to
+purchase, in reality to plunder. Prime cheeses, which had cost us
+tenpence a pound, were sold to them for less than a penny a pound; for
+wine, for which we had paid forty-eight shillings a dozen, they bid
+four shillings. I could not stand this, and in a fit of desperation, I
+snatched up a hammer and broke up case after case, while the
+bystanders held out their hands and caught the ruby stream. It may
+have been wrong, but I was too excited to think. There was no more of
+my own people to give it to, and I would rather not present it to our
+old foes.
+
+We were among the last to leave the Crimea. Before going I borrowed a
+horse, easy enough now, and rode up the old well-known road--how
+unfamiliar in its loneliness and quiet--to Cathcart's Hill. I wished
+once more to impress the scene upon my mind. It was a beautifully
+clear evening, and we could see miles away across the darkening sea. I
+spent some time there with my companions, pointing out to each other
+the sites of scenes we all remembered so well. There were the
+trenches, already becoming indistinguishable, out of which, on the 8th
+of September, we had seen the storming parties tumble in confused and
+scattered bodies, before they ran up the broken height of the Redan.
+There the Malakhoff, into which we had also seen the luckier French
+pour in one unbroken stream; below lay the crumbling city and the
+quiet harbour, with scarce a ripple on its surface, while around
+stretched away the deserted huts for miles. It was with something like
+regret that we said to one another that the play was fairly over, that
+peace had rung the curtain down, and that we, humble actors in some of
+its most stirring scenes, must seek engagements elsewhere.
+
+I lingered behind, and stooping down, once more gathered little tufts
+of grass, and some simple blossoms from above the graves of some who
+in life had been very kind to me, and I left behind, in exchange, a
+few tears which were sincere.
+
+A few days latter, and I stood on board a crowded steamer, taking my
+last look of the shores of the Crimea.
+
+
+
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+I did not return to England by the most direct route, but took the
+opportunity of seeing more of men and manners in yet other lands.
+Arrived in England at last, we set to work bravely at Aldershott to
+retrieve our fallen fortunes, and stem off the ruin originated in the
+Crimea, but all in vain; and at last defeated by fortune, but not I
+think disgraced, we were obliged to capitulate on very honourable
+conditions. In plain truth, the old Crimean firm of Seacole and Day
+was dissolved finally, and its partners had to recommence the world
+anew. And so ended _our_ campaign. One of us started only the other
+day for the Antipodes, while the other is ready to take any journey to
+any place where a stout heart and two experienced hands may be of use.
+
+Perhaps it would be right if I were to express more shame and
+annoyance than I really feel at the pecuniarily disastrous issue of my
+Crimean adventures, but I cannot--I really cannot. When I would try
+and feel ashamed of myself for being poor and helpless, I only
+experience a glow of pride at the other and more pleasing events of my
+career; when I think of the few whom I failed to pay in full (and so
+far from blaming me some of them are now my firmest friends), I cannot
+help remembering also the many who profess themselves indebted to me.
+
+Let me, in as few words as possible, state the results of my Crimean
+campaign. To be sure, I returned from it shaken in health. I came home
+wounded, as many others did. Few constitutions, indeed, were the
+better for those winters before Sebastopol, and I was too hard worked
+not to feel their effects; for a little labour fatigues me now--I
+cannot watch by sick-beds as I could--a week's want of rest quite
+knocks me up now. Then I returned bankrupt in fortune. Whereas others
+in my position may have come back to England rich and prosperous, I
+found myself poor--beggared. So few words can tell what I have lost.
+
+But what have I gained? I should need a volume to describe that
+fairly; so much is it, and so cheaply purchased by suffering ten times
+worse than what I have experienced. I have more than once heard people
+say that they would gladly suffer illness to enjoy the delights of
+convalescence, and so, by enduring a few days' pain, gain the tender
+love of relatives and sympathy of friends. And on this principle I
+rejoice in the trials which have borne me such pleasures as those I
+now enjoy, for wherever I go I am sure to meet some smiling face;
+every step I take in the crowded London streets may bring me in
+contact with some friend, forgotten by me, perhaps, but who soon
+reminds me of our old life before Sebastopol; it seems very long ago
+now, when I was of use to him and he to me.
+
+Where, indeed, do I not find friends. In omnibuses, in river
+steamboats, in places of public amusement, in quiet streets and
+courts, where taking short cuts I lose my way oft-times, spring up old
+familiar faces to remind me of the months spent on Spring Hill. The
+sentries at Whitehall relax from the discharge of their important duty
+of guarding nothing to give me a smile of recognition; the very
+newspaper offices look friendly as I pass them by; busy Printing-house
+Yard puts on a cheering smile, and the _Punch_ office in Fleet Street
+sometimes laughs outright. Now, would all this have happened if I had
+returned to England a rich woman? Surely not.
+
+A few words more ere I bring these egotistical remarks to a close. It
+is naturally with feelings of pride and pleasure that I allude to the
+committee recently organized to aid me; and if I indulge in the vanity
+of placing their names before my readers, it is simply because every
+one of the following noblemen and gentlemen knew me in the Crimea, and
+by consenting to assist me now record publicly their opinion of my
+services there. And yet I may reasonably on other grounds be proud of
+the fact, that it has been stated publicly that my present
+embarrassments originated in my charities and incessant labours among
+the army, by
+
+    Major-General Lord Rokeby, K.C.B.
+    H.S.H. Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, C.B.
+    His Grace the Duke of Wellington.
+    His Grace the Duke of Newcastle.
+    The Right Hon. Lord Ward.
+    General Sir John Burgoyne, K.C.B.
+    Major-General Sir Richard Airey, K.C.B.
+    Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B.
+    Colonel M'Murdo, C.B.
+    Colonel Chapman, C.B.
+    Lieutenant-Colonel Ridley, C.B.
+    Major the Hon. F. Keane.
+    W. H. Russell, Esq. (_Times_ Correspondent).
+    W. T. Doyne, Esq.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+London: Printed by Thomas Harrild, 11, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Minor typographic errors have been corrected without note.
+
+Page 42--omitted 'I' added--"I must do them credit to say, that they
+were never loath ..."
+
+Page 94--omitted 'the' added--"... which is hired by the Government, at
+great cost ..."
+
+There are also a few Scots words in this text. These include 'waesome',
+meaning sorrowful, woeful; and 'brash', meaning attack. Some archaic
+spelling is also used (for example, secresy), which has been retained.
+
+The few oe ligatures have not been retained in this version.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole
+in Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 23031-8.txt or 23031-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/2/3/0/3/23031/
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/23031-8.zip b/23031-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4368f34
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-8.zip
diff --git a/23031-h.zip b/23031-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..18dc733
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-h.zip
diff --git a/23031-h/23031-h.htm b/23031-h/23031-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..44ec8ec
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-h/23031-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,7802 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in Many Lands, by Mary Seacole.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
+    p {  margin-top: .75em;
+         text-align: justify;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
+         }
+    h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {
+         text-align: center; /* all headings centered */
+         clear: both;
+         }
+    hr { width: 33%;
+	 margin-top: 2em;
+	 margin-bottom: 2em;
+         margin-left: auto;
+         margin-right: auto;
+         clear: both;
+       }
+
+    table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;}
+
+    body{margin-left: 10%;
+         margin-right: 10%;
+        }
+
+    a   {text-decoration: none;}
+
+    img {border: none;}
+
+    em  {font-style: italic;}
+
+    .pagenum  { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
+            /*  visibility: hidden;  */
+                position: absolute;
+                left: 92%;
+                font-size: smaller;
+                text-align: right;
+              } /* page numbers */
+
+    .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; padding-top: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 1.5em;}
+    .chaptop  {margin-left: 25%; margin-right: 25%; padding-top: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 1.5em;}
+
+    .bbox     {border: solid 2px; padding: 1em;}
+
+    .center   {text-align: center;}
+    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+    .caption  {font-weight: bold;}
+
+    .figcenter   {margin: auto; text-align: center;}
+
+    .footnotes        {border: dashed 1px;}
+    .footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+    .footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
+    .fnanchor         {vertical-align: .2em; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;}
+
+    .poem             {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;}
+    .poem br          {display: none;}
+    .poem .stanza     {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+    .poem hr          {margin-left:1em;}
+    .poem span.i0     {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+    .poem span.i1     {display: block; margin-left: 1em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+    .poem span.i2     {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+    .poem span.i4     {display: block; margin-left: 4em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+
+    .tdl      {text-align: left; vertical-align: bottom;}  /* left align cell */
+    .tdr      {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: 2em;} /* right align cell */
+    .tdc      {text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; padding-top: 2em;} /* center align cell */
+    .tdlsc    {text-align: left; vertical-align: bottom; padding-top: 2em; font-variant: small-caps;} /* left align cell small caps font */
+
+    .address {text-align: right; margin-right: 4em;} /* address of letter aligned right */
+    .sig  {margin-left: 35%; text-indent: -4em;} /* author signature at end of letter, move 2nd line right */
+
+    .space {padding-left: 2em; padding-right: 2em;} /* spacing */
+
+    // -->
+    /* XML end  ]]>*/
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in
+Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in Many Lands
+
+Author: Mary Seacole
+
+Commentator: W. H. Russell
+
+Editor: W. J. S.
+
+Release Date: October 14, 2007 [EBook #23031]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<h1 style="padding-top: 3em; padding-bottom: 3em;"><span style="font-size: smaller">WONDERFUL</span><br />
+<br />
+ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE<br />
+<br />
+IN MANY LANDS</h1>
+
+
+
+<h2 style="padding-bottom: 3em;">EDITED BY W. J. S.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>WITH AN INTRODUCTORY PREFACE</b><br />
+<br />
+<b>BY</b></p>
+
+<h3>W. H. RUSSELL, ESQ.,</h3>
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-bottom: 5em;"><b>THE &ldquo;TIMES&rdquo; CORRESPONDENT IN THE CRIMEA.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-bottom: 3em;">LONDON:<br />
+JAMES BLACKWOOD, PATERNOSTER ROW.<br />
+1857.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;">
+<img src="images/seacole01.png" width="700" height="611" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MRS. SEACOLE&rsquo;S HOTEL IN THE CRIMEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-top: 3em; padding-bottom: 3em;">LONDON:<br />
+THOMAS HARRILD, PRINTER, 11, SALISBURY SQUARE,<br />
+FLEET STREET.</p>
+
+
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-top: 3em;">DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION,<br />
+<br />
+TO<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: x-large;">MAJOR-GENERAL LORD ROKEBY, K.C.B.,</span><br />
+<br />
+BY HIS LORDSHIP&rsquo;S<br />
+<br />
+HUMBLE AND MOST GRATEFUL SERVANT,<br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 10em;">MARY SEACOLE.</span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg&nbsp;vii]</a></span></p>
+<h2>TO THE READER.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I should have thought that no preface would have
+been required to introduce Mrs. Seacole to the British
+public, or to recommend a book which must, from
+the circumstances in which the subject of it was
+placed, be unique in literature.</p>
+
+<p>If singleness of heart, true charity, and Christian
+works; if trials and sufferings, dangers and perils,
+encountered boldly by a helpless woman on her
+errand of mercy in the camp and in the battle-field,
+can excite sympathy or move curiosity, Mary Seacole
+will have many friends and many readers.</p>
+
+<p>She is no Anna Comnena, who presents us with
+a verbose history, but a plain truth-speaking woman,
+who has lived an adventurous life amid scenes which
+have never yet found a historian among the actors
+on the stage where they passed.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg&nbsp;viii]</a></span>
+I have witnessed her devotion and her courage;
+I have already borne testimony to her services to all
+who needed them. She is the first who has redeemed
+the name of &ldquo;sutler&rdquo; from the suspicion of worthlessness,
+mercenary baseness, and plunder; and I
+trust that England will not forget one who nursed
+her sick, who sought out her wounded to aid and
+succour them, and who performed the last offices for
+some of her illustrious dead.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right; margin-right: 8em;">W. H. RUSSELL.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg&nbsp;ix]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" summary="Table of Contents">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">My Birth and Parentage&mdash;Early Tastes and Travels&mdash;Marriage,
+and Widowhood</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER II.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Struggles for Life&mdash;The Cholera in Jamaica&mdash;I leave Kingston
+for the Isthmus of Panama&mdash;Chagres, Navy Bay, and Gatun&mdash;Life
+in Panama&mdash;Up the River Chagres to Gorgona and Cruces</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">6</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER III.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">My Reception at the Independent Hotel&mdash;A Cruces Table d&rsquo;H&ocirc;te&mdash;Life
+in Cruces&mdash;Amusements of the Crowds&mdash;A Novel Four-post Bed</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">17</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER IV.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">An Unwelcome Visitor in Cruces&mdash;The Cholera&mdash;Success of the
+Yellow Doctress&mdash;Fearful Scene at the Mule-owner&rsquo;s&mdash;The
+Burying Parties&mdash;The Cholera attacks me</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">23</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER V.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">American Sympathy&mdash;I take an Hotel in Cruces&mdash;My Customers&mdash;Lola
+Montes&mdash;Miss Hayes and the Bishop&mdash;Gambling in
+Cruces&mdash;Quarrels amongst the Travellers&mdash;New Granadan
+Military&mdash;The Thieves of Cruces&mdash;A Narrow Escape</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">34</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg&nbsp;x]</a></span>CHAPTER VI.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Migration to Gorgona&mdash;Farewell Dinners and Speeches&mdash;A Building
+Speculation&mdash;Life in Gorgona&mdash;Sympathy with American
+Slaves&mdash;Dr. Casey in Trouble&mdash;Floods and Fires&mdash;Yankee Independence
+and Freedom</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">46</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">The Yellow Fever in Jamaica&mdash;My Experience of Death-bed
+Scenes&mdash;I leave again for Navy Bay, and open a Store there&mdash;I
+am attacked with the Gold Fever, and start for Escribanos&mdash;Life
+in the Interior of the Republic of New Granada&mdash;A
+Revolutionary Conspiracy on a small scale&mdash;The Dinner
+Delicacies of Escribanos&mdash;Journey up the Palmilla River&mdash;A
+Few Words on the Present Aspect of Affairs on the Isthmus
+of Panama</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">59</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">I long to join the British Army before Sebastopol&mdash;My Wanderings
+about London for that purpose&mdash;How I failed&mdash;Establishment
+of the Firm of &ldquo;Day and Martin&rdquo;&mdash;I Embark for Turkey</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">73</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER IX.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Voyage to Constantinople&mdash;Malta&mdash;Gibraltar&mdash;Constantinople,
+and what I thought of it&mdash;Visit to Scutari Hospital&mdash;Miss
+Nightingale</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">82</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER X.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">&ldquo;Jew Johnny&rdquo;&mdash;I Start for Balaclava&mdash;Kindness of my old
+Friends&mdash;On Board the &ldquo;Medora&rdquo;&mdash;My Life on Shore&mdash;The
+Sick Wharf</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">92</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg&nbsp;xi]</a></span>CHAPTER XI.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Alarms in the Harbour&mdash;Getting the Stores on Shore&mdash;Robbery
+by Night and Day&mdash;The Predatory Tribes of Balaclava&mdash;Activity
+of the Authorities&mdash;We obtain leave to erect our
+Store, and fix upon Spring Hill as its Site&mdash;The Turkish
+Pacha&mdash;The Flood&mdash;Our Carpenters&mdash;I become an English
+Schoolmistress Abroad</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">102</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">The British Hotel&mdash;Domestic Difficulties&mdash;Our Enemies&mdash;The
+Russian Rats&mdash;Adventures in Search of a Cat&mdash;Light-fingered
+Zouaves&mdash;Crimean Thieves&mdash;Powdering a Horse</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">113</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">My Work in the Crimea</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">124</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIV.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">My Customers at the British Hotel</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">135</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XV.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">My First Glimpse of War&mdash;Advance of my Turkish Friends on
+Kamara&mdash;Visitors to the Camp&mdash;Miss Nightingale&mdash;Mons.
+Soyer and the Cholera&mdash;Summer in the Crimea&mdash;&ldquo;Thirsty
+Souls&rdquo;&mdash;Death busy in the Trenches</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">146</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVI.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Under Fire on the fatal 18th of June&mdash;Before the Redan&mdash;At
+the Cemetery&mdash;The Armistice&mdash;Deaths at Head-quarters&mdash;Depression
+in the Camp&mdash;Plenty in the Crimea&mdash;The Plague
+of Flies&mdash;Under Fire at the Battle of the Tchernaya&mdash;Work
+on the Field&mdash;My Patients</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">154</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg&nbsp;xii]</a></span>CHAPTER XVII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Inside Sebastopol&mdash;The Last Bombardment of Sebastopol&mdash;On
+Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill&mdash;Rumours in the Camp&mdash;The Attack on the
+Malakhoff&mdash;The Old Work again&mdash;A Sunday Excursion&mdash;Inside
+&ldquo;Our&rdquo; City&mdash;I am taken for a Spy, and thereat
+lose my Temper&mdash;I Visit the Redan, etc.&mdash;My Share of the
+Plunder</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">167</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVIII.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">Holiday in the Camp&mdash;A New Enemy, Time&mdash;Amusements in
+the Crimea&mdash;My share in them&mdash;Dinner at Spring Hill&mdash;At
+the Races&mdash;Christmas-Day in the British Hotel&mdash;New
+Year&rsquo;s Day in the Hospital</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">177</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIX.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdl">New Year in the Crimea&mdash;Good News&mdash;The Armistice&mdash;Barter
+with the Russians&mdash;War and Peace&mdash;Tidings of Peace&mdash;Excursions
+into the Interior of the Crimea&mdash;To Simpheropol,
+Baktchiserai, etc.&mdash;The Troops begin to leave the Crimea&mdash;Friends&rsquo;
+Farewells&mdash;The Cemeteries&mdash;We remove from
+Spring Hill to Balaclava&mdash;Alarming Sacrifice of our Stock&mdash;A
+last Glimpse of Sebastopol&mdash;Home!</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">188</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="tdlsc">Conclusion</td>
+    <td class="tdr"><a href="#CONCLUSION">197</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg&nbsp;1]</a></span></p>
+<h1 style="padding-bottom: 3em;">ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE<br />
+<br />
+IN MANY LANDS.</h1>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>MY BIRTH AND PARENTAGE&mdash;EARLY TASTES AND TRAVELS&mdash;MARRIAGE,
+AND WIDOWHOOD.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I was born in the town of Kingston, in the island of
+Jamaica, some time in the present century. As a female,
+and a widow, I may be well excused giving the precise
+date of this important event. But I do not mind confessing
+that the century and myself were both young together,
+and that we have grown side by side into age and consequence.
+I am a Creole, and have good Scotch blood
+coursing in my veins. My father was a soldier, of an old
+Scotch family; and to him I often trace my affection for a
+camp-life, and my sympathy with what I have heard my
+friends call &ldquo;the pomp, pride, and circumstance of glorious
+war.&rdquo; Many people have also traced to my Scotch blood
+that energy and activity which are not always found in
+the Creole race, and which have carried me to so many
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg&nbsp;2]</a></span>
+varied scenes: and perhaps they are right. I have often
+heard the term &ldquo;lazy Creole&rdquo; applied to my country people;
+but I am sure I do not know what it is to be indolent. All
+my life long I have followed the impulse which led me to
+be up and doing; and so far from resting idle anywhere, I
+have never wanted inclination to rove, nor will powerful
+enough to find a way to carry out my wishes. That these
+qualities have led me into many countries, and brought me
+into some strange and amusing adventures, the reader, if
+he or she has the patience to get through this book, will
+see. Some people, indeed, have called me quite a female
+Ulysses. I believe that they intended it as a compliment;
+but from my experience of the Greeks, I do not consider it
+a very flattering one.</p>
+
+<p>It is not my intention to dwell at any length upon the
+recollections of my childhood. My mother kept a boarding-house
+in Kingston, and was, like very many of the Creole
+women, an admirable doctress; in high repute with the
+officers of both services, and their wives, who were from
+time to time stationed at Kingston. It was very natural
+that I should inherit her tastes; and so I had from early
+youth a yearning for medical knowledge and practice which
+has never deserted me. When I was a very young child I
+was taken by an old lady, who brought me up in her
+household among her own grandchildren, and who could
+scarcely have shown me more kindness had I been one of
+them; indeed, I was so spoiled by my kind patroness that,
+but for being frequently with my mother, I might very
+likely have grown up idle and useless. But I saw so much
+of her, and of her patients, that the ambition to become a
+doctress early took firm root in my mind; and I was very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg&nbsp;3]</a></span>
+young when I began to make use of the little knowledge
+I had acquired from watching my mother, upon a great
+sufferer&mdash;my doll. I have noticed always what actors
+children are. If you leave one alone in a room, how soon
+it clears a little stage; and, making an audience out of a
+few chairs and stools, proceeds to act its childish griefs and
+blandishments upon its doll. So I also made good use of
+my dumb companion and confidante; and whatever disease
+was most prevalent in Kingston, be sure my poor doll soon
+contracted it. I have had many medical triumphs in later
+days, and saved some valuable lives; but I really think
+that few have given me more real gratification than the
+rewarding glow of health which my fancy used to picture
+stealing over my patient&rsquo;s waxen face after long and precarious
+illness.</p>
+
+<p>Before long it was very natural that I should seek to
+extend my practice; and so I found other patients in the
+dogs and cats around me. Many luckless brutes were
+made to simulate diseases which were raging among their
+owners, and had forced down their reluctant throats the
+remedies which I deemed most likely to suit their supposed
+complaints. And after a time I rose still higher in my
+ambition; and despairing of finding another human patient,
+I proceeded to try my simples and essences upon&mdash;myself.</p>
+
+<p>When I was about twelve years old I was more frequently
+at my mother&rsquo;s house, and used to assist her in her
+duties; very often sharing with her the task of attending
+upon invalid officers or their wives, who came to her house
+from the adjacent camp at Up-Park, or the military station
+at Newcastle.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg&nbsp;4]</a></span>
+As I grew into womanhood, I began to indulge that
+longing to travel which will never leave me while I have
+health and vigour. I was never weary of tracing upon an
+old map the route to England; and never followed with my
+gaze the stately ships homeward bound without longing to
+be in them, and see the blue hills of Jamaica fade into the
+distance. At that time it seemed most improbable that
+these girlish wishes should be gratified; but circumstances,
+which I need not explain, enabled me to accompany some
+relatives to England while I was yet a very young woman.</p>
+
+<p>I shall never forget my first impressions of London.
+Of course, I am not going to bore the reader with them;
+but they are as vivid now as though the year 18&mdash;&nbsp;(I had
+very nearly let my age slip then) had not been long ago
+numbered with the past. Strangely enough, some of the
+most vivid of my recollections are the efforts of the London
+street-boys to poke fun at my and my companion&rsquo;s complexion.
+I am only a little brown&mdash;a few shades duskier
+than the brunettes whom you all admire so much; but my
+companion was very dark, and a fair (if I can apply the
+term to her) subject for their rude wit. She was hot-tempered,
+poor thing! and as there were no policemen to
+awe the boys and turn our servants&rsquo; heads in those days,
+our progress through the London streets was sometimes a
+rather chequered one.</p>
+
+<p>I remained in England, upon the occasion of my first
+visit, about a year; and then returned to Kingston. Before
+long I again started for London, bringing with me this
+time a large stock of West Indian preserves and pickles for
+sale. After remaining two years here, I again started
+home; and on the way my life and adventures were very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg&nbsp;5]</a></span>
+nearly brought to a premature conclusion. Christmas-day
+had been kept very merrily on board our ship the &ldquo;Velusia;&rdquo;
+and on the following day a fire broke out in the hold. I
+dare say it would have resisted all the crew&rsquo;s efforts to put
+it out, had not another ship appeared in sight; upon which
+the fire quietly allowed itself to be extinguished. Although
+considerably alarmed, I did not lose my senses; but during
+the time when the contest between fire and water was
+doubtful, I entered into an amicable arrangement with the
+ship&rsquo;s cook, whereby, in consideration of two pounds&mdash;which
+I was not, however, to pay until the crisis arrived&mdash;he
+agreed to lash me on to a large hen-coop.</p>
+
+<p>Before I had been long in Jamaica I started upon other
+trips, many of them undertaken with a view to gain. Thus
+I spent some time in New Providence, bringing home with
+me a large collection of handsome shells and rare shell-work,
+which created quite a sensation in Kingston, and
+had a rapid sale; I visited also Hayti and Cuba. But I
+hasten onward in my narrative.</p>
+
+<p>Returned to Kingston, I nursed my old indulgent patroness
+in her last long illness. After she died, in my
+arms, I went to my mother&rsquo;s house, where I stayed, making
+myself useful in a variety of ways, and learning a
+great deal of Creole medicinal art, until I couldn&rsquo;t find
+courage to say &ldquo;no&rdquo; to a certain arrangement timidly proposed
+by Mr. Seacole, but married him, and took him
+down to Black River, where we established a store. Poor
+man! he was very delicate; and before I undertook the
+charge of him, several doctors had expressed most unfavourable
+opinions of his health. I kept him alive by kind
+nursing and attention as long as I could; but at last he
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg&nbsp;6]</a></span>
+grew so ill that we left Black River, and returned to my
+mother&rsquo;s house at Kingston. Within a month of our arrival
+there he died. This was my first great trouble, and I felt
+it bitterly. For days I never stirred&mdash;lost to all that passed
+around me in a dull stupor of despair. If you had told me
+that the time would soon come when I should remember
+this sorrow calmly, I should not have believed it possible:
+and yet it was so. I do not think that we hot-blooded
+Creoles sorrow less for showing it so impetuously; but I
+do think that the sharp edge of our grief wears down
+sooner than theirs who preserve an outward demeanour of
+calmness, and nurse their woe secretly in their hearts.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>STRUGGLES FOR LIFE&mdash;THE CHOLERA IN JAMAICA&mdash;I LEAVE KINGSTON
+FOR THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA&mdash;CHAGRES, NAVY BAY, AND
+GATUN&mdash;LIFE IN PANAMA&mdash;UP THE RIVER CHAGRES TO GORGONA
+AND CRUCES.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I had one other great grief to master&mdash;the loss of my
+mother, and then I was left alone to battle with the world
+as best I might. The struggles which it cost me to succeed
+in life were sometimes very trying; nor have they
+ended yet. But I have always turned a bold front to fortune,
+and taken, and shall continue to take, as my brave
+friends in the army and navy have shown me how, &ldquo;my
+hurts before.&rdquo; Although it was no easy thing for a
+widow to make ends meet, I never allowed myself to know
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg&nbsp;7]</a></span>
+what repining or depression was, and so succeeded in gaining
+not only my daily bread, but many comforts besides
+from the beginning. Indeed, my experience of the world&mdash;it
+is not finished yet, but I do not think it will give me
+reason to change my opinion&mdash;leads me to the conclusion
+that it is by no means the hard bad world which some
+selfish people would have us believe it. It may be as my
+editor says&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;That gently comes the world to those<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That are cast in gentle mould;&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>hinting at the same time, politely, that the rule may apply
+to me personally. And perhaps he is right, for although
+I was always a hearty, strong woman&mdash;plain-spoken people
+might say stout&mdash;I think my heart is soft enough.</p>
+
+<p>How slowly and gradually I succeeded in life, need
+not be told at length. My fortunes underwent the variations
+which befall all. Sometimes I was rich one day,
+and poor the next. I never thought too exclusively of
+money, believing rather that we were born to be happy,
+and that the surest way to be wretched is to prize it overmuch.
+Had I done so, I should have mourned over many
+a promising speculation proving a failure, over many a
+pan of preserves or guava jelly burnt in the making; and
+perhaps lost my mind when the great fire of 1843, which
+devastated Kingston, burnt down my poor home. As it
+was, I very nearly lost my life, for I would not leave my
+house until every chance of saving it had gone, and it was
+wrapped in flames. But, of course, I set to work again in
+a humbler way, and rebuilt my house by degrees, and
+restocked it, succeeding better than before; for I had gained
+a reputation as a skilful nurse and doctress, and my house
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg&nbsp;8]</a></span>
+was always full of invalid officers and their wives from
+Newcastle, or the adjacent Up-Park Camp. Sometimes I
+had a naval or military surgeon under my roof, from whom
+I never failed to glean instruction, given, when they learned
+my love for their profession, with a readiness and kindness
+I am never likely to forget. Many of these kind
+friends are alive now. I met with some when my adventures
+had carried me to the battle-fields of the Crimea; and
+to those whose eyes may rest upon these pages I again
+offer my acknowledgments for their past kindness, which
+helped me to be useful to my kind in many lands.</p>
+
+<p>And here I may take the opportunity of explaining
+that it was from a confidence in my own powers, and not
+at all from necessity, that I remained an unprotected female.
+Indeed, I do not mind confessing to my reader, in a friendly
+confidential way, that one of the hardest struggles of my
+life in Kingston was to resist the pressing candidates for
+the late Mr. Seacole&rsquo;s shoes.</p>
+
+<p>Officers of high rank sometimes took up their abode in
+my house. Others of inferior rank were familiar with me,
+long before their bravery, and, alas! too often death, in
+the Crimea, made them world famous. There were few
+officers of the 97th to whom Mother Seacole was not well
+known, before she joined them in front of Sebastopol; and
+among the best known was good-hearted, loveable, noble
+H&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;V&mdash;&mdash;, whose death shocked me so terribly, and
+with whose useful heroic life the English public have become
+so familiar. I can hear the ring of his boyish laughter
+even now.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1850, the cholera swept over the island of
+Jamaica with terrible force. Our idea&mdash;perhaps an
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg&nbsp;9]</a></span>
+unfounded one&mdash;was, that a steamer from New Orleans was
+the means of introducing it into the island. Anyhow,
+they sent some clothes on shore to be washed, and poor
+Dolly Johnson, the washerwoman, whom we all knew,
+sickened and died of the terrible disease. While the cholera
+raged, I had but too many opportunities of watching its
+nature, and from a Dr. B&mdash;&mdash;, who was then lodging in
+my house, received many hints as to its treatment which
+I afterwards found invaluable.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the same year my brother had left Kingston for
+the Isthmus of Panama, then the great high-road to and from
+golden California, where he had established a considerable
+store and hotel. Ever since he had done so, I had found
+some difficulty in checking my reviving disposition to roam,
+and at last persuading myself that I might be of use to
+him (he was far from strong), I resigned my house into
+the hands of a cousin, and made arrangements to journey
+to Chagres. Having come to this conclusion, I allowed no
+grass to grow beneath my feet, but set to work busily, for
+I was not going to him empty-handed. My house was
+full for weeks, of tailors, making up rough coats, trousers,
+etc., and sempstresses cutting out and making shirts. In
+addition to these, my kitchen was filled with busy people,
+manufacturing preserves, guava jelly, and other delicacies,
+while a considerable sum was invested in the purchase of
+preserved meats, vegetables, and eggs. It will be as well,
+perhaps, if I explain, in as few words as possible, the then
+condition of the Isthmus of Panama.</p>
+
+<p>All my readers must know&mdash;a glance at the map will show
+it to those who do not&mdash;that between North America and the
+envied shores of California stretches a little neck of land,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg&nbsp;10]</a></span>
+insignificant-looking enough on the map, dividing the Atlantic
+from the Pacific. By crossing this, the travellers from
+America avoided a long, weary, and dangerous sea voyage
+round Cape Horn, or an almost impossible journey by land.</p>
+
+<p>But that journey across the Isthmus, insignificant in
+distance as it was, was by no means an easy one. It seemed
+as if nature had determined to throw every conceivable
+obstacle in the way of those who should seek to join the
+two great oceans of the world. I have read and heard
+many accounts of old endeavours to effect this important
+and gigantic work, and how miserably they failed. It was
+reserved for the men of our age to accomplish what so many
+had died in attempting, and iron and steam, twin giants, subdued
+to man&rsquo;s will, have put a girdle over rocks and rivers, so
+that travellers can glide as smoothly, if not as inexpensively,
+over the once terrible Isthmus of Darien, as they can from
+London to Brighton. Not yet, however, does civilization,
+rule at Panama. The weak sway of the New Granada
+Republic, despised by lawless men, and respected by none,
+is powerless to control the refuse of every nation which
+meet together upon its soil. Whenever they feel inclined
+now they overpower the law easily; but seven years ago,
+when I visited the Isthmus of Panama, things were much
+worse, and a licence existed, compared to which the present
+lawless state of affairs is enviable.</p>
+
+<p>When, after passing Chagres, an old-world, tumble-down
+town, for about seven miles, the steamer reached
+Navy Bay, I thought I had never seen a more luckless,
+dreary spot. Three sides of the place were a mere swamp,
+and the town itself stood upon a sand-reef, the houses
+being built upon piles, which some one told me rotted
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg&nbsp;11]</a></span>
+regularly every three years. The railway, which now
+connects the bay with Panama, was then building, and
+ran, as far as we could see, on piles, connected with the
+town by a wooden jetty. It seemed as capital a nursery
+for ague and fever as Death could hit upon anywhere, and
+those on board the steamer who knew it confirmed my
+opinion. As we arrived a steady down-pour of rain was
+falling from an inky sky; the white men who met us on
+the wharf appeared ghostly and wraith-like, and the very
+negroes seemed pale and wan. The news which met us
+did not tempt me to lose any time in getting up the
+country to my brother. According to all accounts, fever
+and ague, with some minor diseases, especially dropsy,
+were having it all their own way at Navy Bay, and,
+although I only stayed one night in the place, my medicine
+chest was called into requisition. But the sufferers wanted
+remedies which I could not give them&mdash;warmth, nourishment,
+and fresh air. Beneath leaky tents, damp huts, and
+even under broken railway waggons, I saw men dying
+from sheer exhaustion. Indeed, I was very glad when,
+with the morning, the crowd, as the Yankees called the
+bands of pilgrims to and from California, made ready to
+ascend to Panama.</p>
+
+<p>The first stage of our journey was by railway to Gatun,
+about twelve miles distant. For the greater portion of
+that distance the lines ran on piles, over as unhealthy and
+wretched a country as the eye could well grow weary of;
+but, at last, the country improved, and you caught glimpses
+of distant hills and English-like scenery. Every mile of
+that fatal railway cost the world thousands of lives. I
+was assured that its site was marked thickly by graves,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg&nbsp;12]</a></span>
+and that so great was the mortality among the labourers
+that three times the survivors struck in a body, and their
+places had to be supplied by fresh victims from America,
+tempted by unheard-of rates of wages. It is a gigantic
+undertaking, and shows what the energy and enterprise of
+man can accomplish. Everything requisite for its construction,
+even the timber, had to be prepared in, and
+brought from, America.</p>
+
+<p>The railway then ran no further than Gatun, and here
+we were to take water and ascend the River Chagres to
+Gorgona, the next stage on the way to Cruces, where my
+brother was. The cars landed us at the bottom of a somewhat
+steep cutting through a reddish clay, and deposited
+me and my suite, consisting of a black servant, named
+&ldquo;Mac,&rdquo; and a little girl, in safety in the midst of my many
+packages, not altogether satisfied with my prospects; for
+the rain was falling heavily and steadily, and the Gatun
+porters were possessing themselves of my luggage with
+that same avidity which distinguishes their brethren on
+the pier of Calais or the quays of Pera. There are two
+species of individuals whom I have found alike wherever
+my travels have carried me&mdash;the reader can guess their
+professions&mdash;porters and lawyers.</p>
+
+<p>It was as much as I could do to gather my packages
+together, sit in the midst with a determined look to awe
+the hungry crowd around me, and send &ldquo;Mac&rdquo; up the steep
+slippery bank to report progress. After a little while he
+returned to say that the river-side was not far off, where
+boats could be hired for the upward journey. The word
+given, the porters threw themselves upon my packages; a
+pitched battle ensued, out of which issued the strongest
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg&nbsp;13]</a></span>
+Spanish Indians, with their hardly earned prizes, and we
+commenced the ascent of the clayey bank. Now, although
+the surveyors of the Darien highways had considerately
+cut steps up the steep incline, they had become worse than
+useless, so I floundered about terribly, more than once
+losing my footing altogether. And as with that due
+regard to personal appearance, which I have always
+deemed a duty as well as a pleasure to study, I had, before
+leaving Navy Bay, attired myself in a delicate light blue
+dress, a white bonnet prettily trimmed, and an equally
+chaste shawl, the reader can sympathise with my distress.
+However, I gained the summit, and after an arduous
+descent, of a few minutes duration, reached the river-side;
+in a most piteous plight, however, for my pretty dress,
+from its contact with the Gatun clay, looked as red as if,
+in the pursuit of science, I had passed it through a strong
+solution of muriatic acid.</p>
+
+<p>By the water-side I found my travelling companions
+arguing angrily with the shrewd boatmen, and bating down
+their fares. Upon collecting my luggage, I found, as I
+had expected, that the porters had not neglected the
+glorious opportunity of robbing a woman, and that several
+articles were missing. Complaints, I knew, would not
+avail me, and stronger measures seemed hazardous and
+barely advisable in a lawless out-of-the-way spot, where</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">&ldquo;The simple plan,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That they should take who have the power,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And they should keep who can,&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>seemed universally practised, and would very likely have
+been defended by its practitioners upon principle.</p>
+
+<p>It was not so easy to hire a boat as I had been led to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg&nbsp;14]</a></span>
+expect. The large crowd had made the boatmen somewhat exorbitant
+in their demands, and there were several reasons why I
+should engage one for my own exclusive use, instead of
+sharing one with some of my travelling companions. In the
+first place, my luggage was somewhat bulky; and, in the
+second place, my experience of travel had not failed to teach
+me that Americans (even from the Northern States) are
+always uncomfortable in the company of coloured people,
+and very often show this feeling in stronger ways than by
+sour looks and rude words. I think, if I have a little
+prejudice against our cousins across the Atlantic&mdash;and I
+do confess to a little&mdash;it is not unreasonable. I have a few
+shades of deeper brown upon my skin which shows me
+related&mdash;and I am proud of the relationship&mdash;to those poor
+mortals whom you once held enslaved, and whose bodies
+America still owns. And having this bond, and knowing
+what slavery is; having seen with my eyes and heard
+with my ears proof positive enough of its horrors&mdash;let
+others affect to doubt them if they will&mdash;is it surprising
+that I should be somewhat impatient of the airs of
+superiority which many Americans have endeavoured to
+assume over me? Mind, I am not speaking of all. I have
+met with some delightful exceptions.</p>
+
+<p>At length I succeeded in hiring a boat for the modest
+consideration of ten pounds, to carry me and my fortunes
+to Cruces. My boat was far from uncomfortable. Large
+and flat-bottomed, with an awning, dirty it must be confessed,
+beneath which swung a hammock, of which I took
+immediate possession. By the way, the Central Americans
+should adopt the hammock as their national badge; but for
+sheer necessity they would never leave it. The master of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg&nbsp;15]</a></span>
+the boat, the padrone, was a fine tall negro, his crew were
+four common enough specimens of humanity, with a
+marked disregard of the prejudices of society with respect
+to clothing. A dirty handkerchief rolled over the head,
+and a wisp of something, which might have been linen,
+bound round the loins, formed their attire. Perhaps,
+however, the thick coating of dirt which covered them
+kept them warmer than more civilized clothing, besides
+being indisputably more economical.</p>
+
+<p>The boat was generally propelled by paddles, but when
+the river was shallow, poles were used to punt us along, as
+on English rivers; the black padrone, whose superior position
+was indicated by the use of decent clothing, standing
+at the helm, gesticulating wildly, and swearing Spanish
+oaths with a vehemence that would have put Corporal
+Trim&rsquo;s comrades in Flanders to the blush. Very much
+shocked, of course, but finding it perfectly useless to remonstrate
+with him, I swung myself in my hammock and
+leisurely watched the river scene.</p>
+
+<p>The river Chagres lolled with considerable force, now
+between low marshy shores, now narrowing, between steep,
+thickly wooded banks. It was liable, as are all rivers in
+hilly districts, to sudden and heavy floods; and although
+the padrone, on leaving Gatun, had pledged his soul to land
+me at Cruces that night, I had not been long afloat before
+I saw that he would forfeit his worthless pledge; for the
+wind rose to a gale, ruffling the river here and there into
+a little sea; the rain came down in torrents, while the
+river rose rapidly, bearing down on its swollen stream
+trunks of trees, and similar waifs and strays, which it
+tossed about like a giant in sport, threatening to snag us
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg&nbsp;16]</a></span>
+with its playthings every moment. And when we came to
+a sheltered reach, and found that the little fleet of boats
+which had preceded us had laid to there, I came to the conclusion
+that, stiff, tired, and hungry, I should have to pass a
+night upon the river Chagres. All I could get to eat was
+some guavas, which grew wild upon the banks, and then I
+watched the padrone curl his long body up among my luggage,
+and listened to the crew, who had rolled together at the
+bottom of the boat, snore as peacefully as if they slept between
+fair linen sheets, in the purest of calico night-gear,
+and the most unexceptionable of nightcaps, until somehow
+I fell into a troubled, dreamy sleep.</p>
+
+<p>At daybreak we were enabled to pursue our journey,
+and in a short time reached Gorgona. I was glad enough
+to go on shore, as you may imagine. Gorgona was a mere
+temporary town of bamboo and wood houses, hastily erected
+to serve as a station for the crowd. In the present rainy
+season, when the river was navigable up to Cruces, the
+chief part of the population migrated thither, so that Gorgona
+was almost deserted, and looked indescribably damp,
+dirty, and dull. With some difficulty I found a bakery and
+a butcher&rsquo;s shop. The meat was not very tempting, for
+the Gorgona butchers did not trouble themselves about
+joints, but cut the flesh into strips about three inches wide,
+and of various lengths. These were hung upon rails, so
+that you bought your meat by the yard, and were spared
+any difficulty in the choice of joint. I cannot say that I
+was favourably impressed with this novel and simple way
+of avoiding trouble, but I was far too hungry to be particular,
+and buying a strip for a quarter of a real, carried
+it off to Mac to cook.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg&nbsp;17]</a></span>
+Late that afternoon, the padrone and his crew landed
+me, tired, wretched, and out of temper, upon the miserable
+wharf of Cruces.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>MY RECEPTION AT THE INDEPENDENT HOTEL&mdash;A CRUCES TABLE D&rsquo;H&Ocirc;TE&mdash;LIFE
+IN CRUCES&mdash;AMUSEMENTS OF THE CROWDS&mdash;A NOVEL
+FOUR-POST BED.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The sympathising reader, who very likely has been laughing
+heartily at my late troubles, can fancy that I was
+looking forward with no little pleasurable anticipation to
+reaching my brother&rsquo;s cheerful home at Cruces. After the
+long night spent on board the wretched boat in my stiff,
+clayey dress, and the hours of fasting, the warmth and good
+cheer of the Independent Hotel could not fail to be acceptable.
+My brother met me on the rickety wharf with
+the kindest welcome in his face, although he did not
+attempt to conceal a smile at my forlorn appearance, and
+giving the necessary instructions about my luggage, led the
+way at once to his house, which was situated at the upper
+end of the street. A capital site, he said, when the rest of
+the town was under water&mdash;which agreeable variety occurred
+twice or thrice a year unexpectedly. On our way, he
+rather damped my hopes by expressing his fears that he
+should be unable to provide his sister with the accommodation
+he could wish. For you see, he said, the crowd from
+Panama has just come in, meeting your crowd from Navy
+Bay; and I shouldn&rsquo;t be at all surprised if very many of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg&nbsp;18]</a></span>
+them have no better bed than the store floors. But, despite
+this warning, I was miserably unprepared for the reception
+that awaited me. To be sure, I found Cruces as like Gorgona,
+in its dampness, dirt, and confusion, as it well could
+be; but the crowd from the gold-fields of California had
+just arrived, having made the journey from Panama on
+mules, and the street was filled with motley groups in picturesque
+variety of attire. The hotels were also full of
+them, while many lounged in the verandahs after their
+day&rsquo;s journey. Rude, coarse gold-diggers, in gay-coloured
+shirts, and long, serviceable boots, elbowed, in perfect
+equality, keen Yankee speculators, as close shaven, neat,
+and clean on the Isthmus of Panama as in the streets of
+New York or New Orleans. The women alone kept aloof
+from each other, and well they might; for, while a very
+few seemed not ashamed of their sex, it was somewhat
+difficult to distinguish the majority from their male companions,
+save by their bolder and more reckless voice and
+manner. I must say, however, that many of them adopted
+male attire for the journey across the Isthmus only, as it
+spared them many compliments which their husbands were
+often disposed to resent, however flattering they might be
+to their choice.</p>
+
+<p>Through all these I pressed on, stiff, cold, and hungry,
+to the Independent Hotel, eagerly anticipating the comforts
+which awaited me there. At length we reached it. But,
+rest! warmth! comfort!&mdash;miserable delusions! Picture to
+yourself, sympathising reader, a long, low hut, built of
+rough, unhewn, unplaned logs, filled up with mud and
+split bamboo; a long, sloping roof and a large verandah,
+already full of visitors. And the interior: a long room,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg&nbsp;19]</a></span>
+gaily hung with dirty calico, in stripes of red and white;
+above it another room, in which the guests slept, having
+the benefit of sharing in any orgies which might be going
+on below them, through the broad chinks between the
+rough, irregular planks which formed its floor. At the
+further end, a small corner, partitioned roughly off, formed
+a bar, and around it were shelves laden with stores for the
+travellers, while behind it was a little room used by
+my brother as his private apartment; but three female
+travellers had hired it for their own especial use for the
+night, paying the enormous sum of &pound;10 for so exclusive a
+luxury. At the entrance sat a black man, taking toll of
+the comers-in, giving them in exchange for coin or gold-dust
+(he had a rusty pair of scales to weigh the latter) a
+dirty ticket, which guaranteed them supper, a night&rsquo;s lodging,
+and breakfast. I saw all this very quickly, and turned
+round upon my brother in angry despair.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;What am I to do? Why did you ever bring me to
+this place? See what a state I am in&mdash;cold, hungry, and
+wretched. I want to wash, to change my clothes, to eat,
+to&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>But poor Edward could only shrug his shoulders and
+shake his head, in answer to my indignant remonstrances.
+At last he made room for me in a corner of the crowded
+bar, set before me some food, and left me to watch the
+strange life I had come to; and before long I soon forgot
+my troubles in the novelty of my position.</p>
+
+<p>The difference between the passengers to and from
+California was very distinguishable. Those bound for the
+gold country were to a certain extent fresh from civilization,
+and had scarcely thrown off its control; whereas the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg&nbsp;20]</a></span>
+homeward bound revelled in disgusting excess of licence.
+Although many of the women on their way to California
+showed clearly enough that the life of licence they sought
+would not be altogether unfamiliar to them, they still retained
+some appearance of decency in their attire and
+manner; but in many cases (as I have before said) the
+female companions of the successful gold-diggers appeared
+in no hurry to resume the dress or obligations of their sex.
+Many were clothed as the men were, in flannel shirt and
+boots; rode their mules in unfeminine fashion, but with
+much ease and courage; and in their conversation successfully
+rivalled the coarseness of their lords. I think, on the
+whole, that those French lady writers who desire to enjoy
+the privileges of man, with the irresponsibility of the other
+sex, would have been delighted with the disciples who
+were carrying their principles into practice in the streets
+of Cruces.</p>
+
+<p>The chief object of all the travellers seemed to be
+dinner or supper; I do not know what term they gave it.
+Down the entire length of the Independent Hotel ran a table
+covered with a green oilskin cloth, and at proper intervals
+were placed knives and forks, plates, and cups and saucers
+turned down; and when a new-comer received his ticket,
+and wished to secure his place for the coming repast, he
+would turn his plate, cup, and saucer up; which mode of
+reserving seats seemed respected by the rest. And as the
+evening wore on, the shouting and quarrelling at the doorway
+in Yankee twang increased momentarily; while some
+seated themselves at the table, and hammering upon it with
+the handles of their knives, hallooed out to the excited
+nigger cooks to make haste with the slapjack. Amidst all
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg&nbsp;21]</a></span>
+this confusion, my brother was quietly selling shirts, boots,
+trousers, etc., to the travellers; while above all the din
+could be heard the screaming voices of his touters without,
+drawing attention to the good cheer of the Independent
+Hotel. Over and over again, while I cowered in my snug
+corner, wishing to avoid the notice of all, did I wish myself
+safe back in my pleasant home in Kingston; but it was too
+late to find out my mistake now.</p>
+
+<p>At last the table was nearly filled with a motley assemblage
+of men and women, and the slapjack, hot and steaming,
+was carried in by the black cooks. The hungry diners
+welcomed its advent with a shout of delight; and yet it
+did not seem particularly tempting. But beyond all doubt
+it was a capital <i>pi&egrave;ce de r&eacute;sistance</i> for great eaters; and
+before the dinner was over, I saw ample reasons to induce
+any hotel-keeper to give it his patronage. In truth, it was
+a thick substantial pancake of flour, salt, and water&mdash;eggs
+were far too expensive to be used in its composition;
+and by the time the supply had disappeared, I thought the
+largest appetites must have been stayed. But it was followed
+by pork, strips of beef stewed with hard dumplings,
+hams, great dishes of rice, jugs of molasses and treacle for
+sauce; the whole being washed down with an abundance
+of tea and coffee. Chickens and eggs were provided for
+those who were prepared to pay for these luxuries of Panama
+life. But, so scarce and expensive were they, that, as
+I afterwards discovered, those hotel-keepers whose larders
+were so stocked would hang out a chicken upon their signposts,
+as a sure attraction for the richer and more reckless
+diggers; while the touter&rsquo;s cry of &ldquo;Eggs and chickens
+here&rdquo; was a very telling one. Wine and spirits were also
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg&nbsp;22]</a></span>
+obtainable, but were seldom taken by the Americans, who
+are abstemious abroad as well as at home.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner the store soon cleared. Gambling was a
+great attraction; but my brother, dreading its consequences
+with these hot-brained armed men, allowed none to take
+place in his hotel. So some lounged away to the faro and
+monte tables, which were doing a busy trade; others
+loitered in the verandah, smoking, and looking at the
+native women, who sang and danced fandangos before
+them. The whole of the dirty, woe-begone place, which
+had looked so wretched by the light of day, was brilliantly
+illuminated now. Night would bring no rest to Cruces,
+while the crowds were there to be fed, cheated, or amused.
+Daybreak would find the faro-tables, with their piles of
+silver and little heaps of gold-dust, still surrounded by
+haggard gamblers; daybreak would gleam sickly upon the
+tawdry finery of the poor Spanish singers and dancers,
+whose weary night&rsquo;s work would enable them to live upon
+the travellers&rsquo; bounty for the next week or so. These few
+hours of gaiety and excitement were to provide the Cruces
+people with food and clothing for as many days; and while
+their transitory sun shone, I will do them the justice to say
+they gathered in their hay busily. In the exciting race
+for gold, we need not be surprised at the strange groups
+which line the race-course. All that I wondered at was,
+that I had not foreseen what I found, or that my rage for
+change and novelty had closed my ears against the warning
+voices of those who knew somewhat of the high-road to
+California; but I was too tired to moralise long, and begged
+my brother to find me a bed somewhere. He failed to do
+so completely, and in despair I took the matter in my own
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg&nbsp;23]</a></span>
+hands; and stripping the green oilskin cloth from the rough
+table&mdash;it would not be wanted again until to-morrow&rsquo;s
+breakfast&mdash;pinned up some curtains round the table&rsquo;s legs,
+and turned in with my little servant beneath it. It was
+some comfort to know that my brother, his servants, and
+Mac brought their mattresses, and slept upon it above us.
+It was a novel bed, and required some slight stretch of the
+imagination to fancy it a four-poster; but I was too tired
+to be particular, and slept soundly.</p>
+
+<p>We were up right early on the following morning; and
+refreshed with my night&rsquo;s sleep, I entered heartily into the
+preparations for breakfast. That meal over, the homeward-bound
+passengers took boats <i>en route</i> for Gorgona, while
+those bound for California hired mules for the land journey
+to Panama. So after awhile all cleared away, and Cruces
+was left to its unhealthy solitude.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>AN UNWELCOME VISITOR IN CRUCES&mdash;THE CHOLERA&mdash;SUCCESS OF THE
+YELLOW DOCTRESS&mdash;FEARFUL SCENE AT THE MULE-OWNER&rsquo;S&mdash;THE
+BURYING PARTIES&mdash;THE CHOLERA ATTACKS ME.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I do not think I have ever known what it is to despair, or
+even to despond (if such were my inclination, I have had
+some opportunities recently), and it was not long before
+I began to find out the bright side of Cruces life, and enter
+into schemes for staying there. But it would be a week
+or so before the advent of another crowd would wake
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg&nbsp;24]</a></span>
+Cruces to life and activity again; and in the meanwhile,
+and until I could find a convenient hut for my intended
+hotel, I remained my brother&rsquo;s guest.</p>
+
+<p>But it was destined that I should not be long in Cruces
+before my medicinal skill and knowledge were put to the
+test. Before the passengers for Panama had been many
+days gone, it was found that they had left one of their
+number behind them, and that one&mdash;the cholera. I believe
+that the faculty have not yet come to the conclusion that
+the cholera is contagious, and I am not presumptuous
+enough to forestall them; but my people have always considered
+it to be so, and the poor Cruces folks did not
+hesitate to say that this new and terrible plague had been a
+fellow-traveller with the Americans from New Orleans or
+some other of its favoured haunts. I had the first intimation
+of its unwelcome presence in the following abrupt and
+unpleasant manner:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>A Spaniard, an old and intimate friend of my brother,
+had supped with him one evening, and upon returning
+home had been taken ill, and after a short period of intense
+suffering had died. So sudden and so mysterious a death
+gave rise to the rumour that he had been poisoned, and
+suspicion rested for a time, perhaps not unnaturally, upon
+my brother, in whose company the dead man had last been.
+Anxious for many reasons&mdash;the chief one, perhaps, the
+position of my brother&mdash;I went down to see the corpse. A
+single glance at the poor fellow showed me the terrible
+truth. The distressed face, sunken eyes, cramped limbs, and
+discoloured shrivelled skin were all symptoms which I had
+been familiar with very recently; and at once I pronounced
+the cause of death to be cholera. The Cruces people were
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg&nbsp;25]</a></span>
+mightily angry with me for expressing such an opinion;
+even my brother, although it relieved him of the odium of
+a great crime, was as annoyed as the rest. But by twelve
+o&rsquo;clock that morning one of the Spaniard&rsquo;s friends was
+attacked similarly, and the very people who had been most
+angry with me a few hours previously, came to me now
+eager for advice. There was no doctor in Cruces; the
+nearest approach to one was a little timid dentist, who was
+there by accident, and who refused to prescribe for the
+sufferer, and I was obliged to do my best. Selecting from
+my medicine chest&mdash;I never travel anywhere without it&mdash;what
+I deemed necessary, I went hastily to the patient,
+and at once adopted the remedies I considered fit. It was
+a very obstinate case, but by dint of mustard emetics,
+warm fomentations, mustard plasters on the stomach and
+the back, and calomel, at first in large then in gradually
+smaller doses, I succeeded in saving my first cholera
+patient in Cruces.</p>
+
+<p>For a few days the terrible disease made such slow
+progress amongst us that we almost hoped it had passed on
+its way and spared us; but all at once it spread rapidly,
+and affrighted faces and cries of woe soon showed how
+fatally the destroyer was at work. And in so great request
+were my services, that for days and nights together I
+scarcely knew what it was to enjoy two successive hours&rsquo;
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>And here I must pause to set myself right with my
+kind reader. He or she will not, I hope, think that, in
+narrating these incidents, I am exalting my poor part in
+them unduly. I do not deny (it is the only thing indeed
+that I have to be proud of) that I <em>am</em> pleased and gratified
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg&nbsp;26]</a></span>
+when I look back upon my past life, and see times now
+and then, and places here and there, when and where I
+have been enabled to benefit my fellow-creatures suffering
+from ills my skill could often remedy. Nor do I think
+that the kind reader will consider this feeling an unworthy
+one. If it be so, and if, in the following pages, the
+account of what Providence has given me strength to do
+on larger fields of action be considered vain or egotistical,
+still I cannot help narrating them, for my share in them
+appears to be the one and only claim I have to interest
+the public ear. Moreover I shall be sadly disappointed, if
+those years of life which may be still in store for me are
+not permitted by Providence to be devoted to similar
+usefulness. I am not ashamed to confess&mdash;for the gratification
+is, after all, a selfish one&mdash;that I love to be of
+service to those who need a woman&rsquo;s help. And wherever
+the need arises&mdash;on whatever distant shore&mdash;I ask no
+greater or higher privilege than to minister to it. After
+this explanation, I resume more freely the account of my
+labours in Cruces.</p>
+
+<p>It was scarcely surprising that the cholera should
+spread rapidly, for fear is its powerful auxiliary, and the
+Cruces people bowed down before the plague in slavish
+despair. The Americans and other foreigners in the place
+showed a brave front, but the natives, constitutionally
+cowardly, made not the feeblest show of resistance.
+Beyond filling the poor church, and making the priests
+bring out into the streets figures of tawdry dirty saints,
+supposed to possess some miraculous influence which they
+never exerted, before which they prostrated themselves,
+invoking their aid with passionate prayers and cries, they
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg&nbsp;27]</a></span>
+did nothing. Very likely the saints would have got the
+credit of helping them if they had helped themselves; but
+the poor cowards never stirred a finger to clean out their
+close, reeking huts, or rid the damp streets of the rotting
+accumulation of months. I think their chief reliance was
+on &ldquo;the yellow woman from Jamaica with the cholera
+medicine.&rdquo; Nor was this surprising; for the Spanish
+doctor, who was sent for from Panama, became nervous
+and frightened at the horrors around him, and the people
+soon saw that he was not familiar with the terrible disease
+he was called upon to do battle with, and preferred trusting
+to one who was.</p>
+
+<p>It must be understood that many of those who could
+afford to pay for my services did so handsomely, but the
+great majority of my patients had nothing better to give
+their doctress than thanks. The best part of my practice
+lay amongst the American store and hotel keepers, the
+worst among the native boatmen and muleteers. These
+latter died by scores, and among them I saw some scenes
+of horror I would fain forget, if it were possible. One
+terrible night, passed with some of them, has often
+haunted me. I will endeavour to narrate it, and should
+the reader be supposed to think it highly coloured and
+doubtful, I will only tell him that, terrible as it seems, I
+saw almost as fearful scenes on the Crimean peninsula
+among British men, a few thousand miles only from comfort
+and plenty.</p>
+
+<p>It was late in the evening when the largest mule-owner
+in Cruces came to me and implored me to accompany him
+to his kraal, a short distance from the town, where he said
+some of his men were dying. One in particular, his head
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg&nbsp;28]</a></span>
+muleteer, a very valuable servant, he was most selfishly
+anxious for, and, on the way thither, promised me a large
+remuneration if I should succeed in saving him. Our
+journey was not a long one, but it rained hard, and the
+fields were flooded, so that it took us some time to reach
+the long, low hut which he called his home. I would
+rather not see such another scene as the interior of that
+hut presented. Its roof scarcely sheltered its wretched inmates
+from the searching rain; its floor was the damp, rank
+turf, trodden by the mules&rsquo; hoofs and the muleteers&rsquo; feet
+into thick mud. Around, in dirty hammocks, and on the
+damp floor, were the inmates of this wretched place, male
+and female, the strong and the sick together, breathing air
+that nearly choked me, accustomed as I had grown to live
+in impure atmosphere; for beneath the same roof the mules,
+more valuable to their master than his human servants,
+were stabled, their fore-feet locked, and beside them were
+heaps of saddles, packs, and harness. The groans of the
+sufferers and the anxiety and fear of their comrades were
+so painful to hear and witness, that for a few minutes I felt
+an almost uncontrollable impulse to run out into the stormy
+night, and flee from this plague-spot. But the weak feeling
+vanished, and I set about my duty. The mule-owner was
+so frightened that he did not hesitate to obey orders, and,
+by my directions, doors and shutters were thrown open,
+fires were lighted, and every effort made to ventilate the
+place; and then, with the aid of the frightened women, I
+applied myself to my poor patients. Two were beyond my
+skill. Death alone could give them relief. The others I
+could help. But no words of mine could induce them to
+bear their terrible sufferings like men. They screamed and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg&nbsp;29]</a></span>
+groaned, not like women, for few would have been so
+craven-hearted, but like children; calling, in the intervals
+of violent pain, upon Jesu, the Madonna, and all the
+saints of heaven whom their lives had scandalised. I
+stayed with them until midnight, and then got away for
+a little time. But I had not long been quiet, before
+the mule-master was after me again. The men were
+worse; would I return with him. The rain was drifting
+heavily on the thatched roof, as it only does in tropical climates,
+and I was tired to death; but I could not resist his
+appeal. He had brought with him a pair of tall, thick boots,
+in which I was to wade through the flooded fields; and with
+some difficulty I again reached the kraal. I found the worst
+cases sinking fast, one of the others had relapsed, while fear
+had paralysed the efforts of the rest. At last I restored some
+order; and, with the help of the bravest of the women,
+fixed up rude screens around the dying men. But no
+screens could shut out from the others their awful groans
+and cries for the aid that no mortal power could give them.
+So the long night passed away; first a deathlike stillness
+behind one screen, and then a sudden silence behind the
+other, showing that the fierce battle with death was over,
+and who had been the victor. And, meanwhile, I sat
+before the flickering fire, with my last patient in my lap&mdash;a
+poor, little, brown-faced orphan infant, scarce a year old,
+was dying in my arms, and I was powerless to save it. It
+may seem strange, but it is a fact, that I thought more
+of that little child than I did of the men who were
+struggling for their lives, and prayed very earnestly and
+solemnly to God to spare it. But it did not please Him to
+grant my prayer, and towards morning the wee spirit left
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg&nbsp;30]</a></span>
+this sinful world for the home above it had so lately left,
+and what was mortal of the little infant lay dead in my
+arms. Then it was that I began to think&mdash;how the idea
+first arose in my mind I can hardly say&mdash;that, if it were possible
+to take this little child and examine it, I should learn
+more of the terrible disease which was sparing neither young
+nor old, and should know better how to do battle with it.
+I was not afraid to use my baby patient thus. I knew its
+fled spirit would not reproach me, for I had done all I could
+for it in life&mdash;had shed tears over it, and prayed for it.</p>
+
+<p>It was cold grey dawn, and the rain had ceased, when
+I followed the man who had taken the dead child away to
+bury it, and bribed him to carry it by an unfrequented
+path down to the river-side, and accompany me to the thick
+retired bush on the opposite bank. Having persuaded him
+thus much, it was not difficult, with the help of silver arguments
+to convince him that it would be for the general benefit
+and his own, if I could learn from this poor little thing the
+secret inner workings of our common foe; and ultimately
+he stayed by me, and aided me in my first and last <i>post
+mortem</i> examination. It seems a strange deed to accomplish,
+and I am sure I could not wield the scalpel or the
+substitute I then used now, but at that time the excitement
+had strung my mind up to a high pitch of courage
+and determination; and perhaps the daily, almost hourly,
+scenes of death had made me somewhat callous. I need
+not linger on this scene, nor give the readers the results of
+my operation; although novel to me, and decidedly useful,
+they were what every medical man well knows.</p>
+
+<p>We buried the poor little body beneath a piece of
+luxuriant turf, and stole back into Cruces like guilty things.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg&nbsp;31]</a></span>
+But the knowledge I had obtained thus strangely was
+very valuable to me, and was soon put into practice. But
+that I dreaded boring my readers, I would fain give them
+some idea of my treatment of this terrible disease. I have
+no doubt that at first I made some lamentable blunders,
+and, may be, lost patients which a little later I could have
+saved. I know I came across, the other day, some notes
+of cholera medicines which made me shudder, and I dare
+say they have been used in their turn and found wanting.
+The simplest remedies were perhaps the best. Mustard
+plasters, and emetics, and calomel; the mercury applied externally,
+where the veins were nearest the surface, were
+my usual resources. Opium I rather dreaded, as its effect
+is to incapacitate the system from making any exertion,
+and it lulls the patient into a sleep which is often the sleep
+of death. When my patients felt thirsty, I would give
+them water in which cinnamon had been boiled. One stubborn
+attack succumbed to an additional dose of ten grains
+of sugar of lead, mixed in a pint of water, given in doses
+of a table-spoonful every quarter of an hour. Another
+patient, a girl, I rubbed over with warm oil, camphor, and
+spirits of wine. Above all, I never neglected to apply
+mustard poultices to the stomach, spine, and neck, and
+particularly to keep my patient warm about the region of
+the heart. Nor did I relax my care when the disease had
+passed by, for danger did not cease when the great foe
+was beaten off. The patient was left prostrate; strengthening
+medicines had to be given cautiously, for fever, often of
+the brain, would follow. But, after all, one great conclusion,
+which my practice in cholera cases enabled me to
+come to, was the old one, that few constitutions permitted
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg&nbsp;32]</a></span>
+the use of exactly similar remedies, and that the course of
+treatment which saved one man, would, if persisted in,
+have very likely killed his brother.</p>
+
+<p>Generally speaking, the cholera showed premonitory
+symptoms; such as giddiness, sickness, diarrh&oelig;a, or sunken
+eyes and distressed look; but sometimes the substance
+followed its forecoming shadow so quickly, and the crisis
+was so rapid, that there was no time to apply any remedies.
+An American carpenter complained of giddiness and sickness&mdash;warning
+signs&mdash;succeeded so quickly by the worst
+symptoms of cholera, that in less than an hour his face became
+of an indigo tint, his limbs were doubled up horribly
+with violent cramps, and he died.</p>
+
+<p>To the convicts&mdash;and if there could be grades of
+wretchedness in Cruces, these poor creatures were the
+lowest&mdash;belonged the terrible task of burying the dead; a
+duty to which they showed the utmost repugnance. Not
+unfrequently, at some fancied alarm, they would fling
+down their burden, until at last it became necessary to
+employ the soldiers to see that they discharged the task
+allotted to them. Ordinarily, the victims were buried immediately
+after death, with such imperfect rites of sepulture
+as the harassed frightened priests would pay them,
+and very seldom was time afforded by the authorities to
+the survivors to pay those last offices to the departed which
+a Spaniard and a Catholic considers so important. Once I
+was present at a terrible scene in the house of a New
+Granada grandee, whose pride and poverty justified many
+of the old Spanish proverbs levelled at his caste.</p>
+
+<p>It was when the cholera was at its height, and yet he
+had left&mdash;perhaps on important business&mdash;his wife and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg&nbsp;33]</a></span>
+family, and gone to Panama for three days. On the day
+after his departure, the plague broke out in his house, and
+my services were required promptly. I found the miserable
+household in terrible alarm, and yet confining their
+exertions to praying to a coarse black priest in a black
+surplice, who, kneeling beside the couch of the Spanish lady,
+was praying (in his turn) to some favourite saint in Cruces.
+The sufferer was a beautiful woman, suffering from a violent
+attack of cholera, with no one to help her, or even to take
+from her arms the poor little child they had allowed her to
+retain. In her intervals of comparative freedom from pain,
+her cries to the Madonna and her husband were heartrending
+to hear. I had the greatest difficulty to rout the stupid
+priest and his as stupid worshippers, and do what I could
+for the sufferer. It was very little, and before long the
+unconscious Spaniard was a widower. Soon after, the
+authorities came for the body. I never saw such passionate
+anger and despair as were shown by her relatives and servants,
+old and young, at the intrusion&mdash;rage that she,
+who had been so exalted in life, should go to her grave like
+the poor, poor clay she was. Orders were given to bar
+the door against the convict gang who had come to discharge
+their unpleasant duty, and while all were busy
+decking out the unconscious corpse in gayest attire, none
+paid any heed to me bending over the fire with the motherless
+child, journeying fast to join its dead parent. I had
+made more than one effort to escape, for I felt more sick
+and wretched than at any similar scene of woe; but finding
+exit impossible, I turned my back upon them, and attended
+to the dying child. Nor did I heed their actions until I
+heard orders given to admit the burial party, and then I
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg&nbsp;34]</a></span>
+found that they had dressed the corpse in rich white satin,
+and decked her head with flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The agitation and excitement of this scene had
+affected me as no previous horror had done, and I could
+not help fancying that symptoms were showing themselves
+in me with which I was familiar enough in others. Leaving
+the dying infant to the care of its relatives (when the
+Spaniard returned he found himself widowed and childless),
+I hastened to my brother&rsquo;s house. When there, I felt an
+unpleasant chill come over me, and went to bed at once.
+Other symptoms followed quickly, and, before nightfall, I
+knew full well that my turn had come at last, and that the
+cholera had attacked me, perhaps its greatest foe in Cruces.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>AMERICAN SYMPATHY&mdash;I TAKE AN HOTEL IN CRUCES&mdash;MY CUSTOMERS&mdash;LOLA
+MONTES&mdash;MISS HAYES AND THE BISHOP&mdash;GAMBLING IN
+CRUCES&mdash;QUARRELS AMONGST THE TRAVELLERS&mdash;NEW GRANADA
+MILITARY&mdash;THE THIEVES OF CRUCES&mdash;A NARROW ESCAPE.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>When it became known that their &ldquo;yellow doctress&rdquo; had
+the cholera, I must do the people of Cruces the justice to
+say that they gave her plenty of sympathy, and would
+have shown their regard for her more actively, had there
+been any occasion. Indeed, when I most wanted quiet, it
+was difficult to keep out the sympathising Americans and
+sorrowing natives who came to inquire after me; and who,
+not content with making their inquiries, and leaving their
+offerings of blankets, flannel, etc., must see with their own
+eyes what chance the yellow woman had of recovery. The
+rickety door of my little room could never be kept shut
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg&nbsp;35]</a></span>
+for many minutes together. A visitor would open it
+silently, poke his long face in with an expression of sympathy
+that almost made me laugh in spite of my pain,
+draw it out again, between the narrowest possible opening,
+as if he were anxious to admit as little air as he could;
+while another would come in bodily, and after looking at
+me curiously and inquisitively, as he would eye a horse or
+nigger he had some thoughts of making a bid for, would
+help to carpet my room, with the result perhaps of his
+meditations, and saying, gravely, &ldquo;Air you better, Aunty
+Seacole, now? Isn&rsquo;t there a something we can du for you,
+ma&rsquo;am?&rdquo; would as gravely give place to another and another
+yet, until I was almost inclined to throw something at
+them, or call them bad names, like the Scotch king does
+the ghosts in the play.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> But, fortunately, the attack was a
+very mild one, and by the next day all danger had gone
+by, although I still felt weak and exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>After a few weeks, the first force of the cholera was
+spent, and although it lingered with us, as though loath to
+leave so fine a resting-place, for some months, it no longer
+gave us much alarm; and before long, life went on as
+briskly and selfishly as ever with the Cruces survivors,
+and the terrible past was conveniently forgotten. Perhaps
+it is so everywhere; but the haste with which the Cruces
+people buried their memory seemed indecent. Old houses
+found new masters; the mules new drivers; the great
+Spaniard chose another pretty woman, and had a grand,
+poor, dirty wedding, and was married by the same lazy
+black priest who had buried his wife, dead a few months
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg&nbsp;36]</a></span>
+back; and very likely they would all have hastened as
+quickly to forget their doctress, had circumstances permitted
+them: but every now and then one of them sickened
+and died of the old complaint; and the reputation I had
+established founded for me a considerable practice. The
+Americans in the place gladly retained me as their medical
+attendant, and in one way or other gave me plenty to do;
+but, in addition to this, I determined to follow my original
+scheme of keeping an hotel in Cruces.</p>
+
+<p>Right opposite my brother&rsquo;s Independent Hotel there
+was a place to let which it was considered I could adapt to
+my purpose. It was a mere tumble-down hut, with wattled
+sides, and a rotten thatched roof, containing two rooms,
+one small enough to serve as a bedroom. For this charming
+residence&mdash;very openly situated, and well ventilated&mdash;twenty
+pounds a month was considered a fair and by no
+means exorbitant rent. And yet I was glad to take possession
+of it; and in a few days had hung its rude walls with
+calico of gayest colour in stripes, with an exuberance of
+fringes, frills, and bows (the Americans love show dearly),
+and prepared it to accommodate fifty dinner guests. I had
+determined that it should be simply a <i>table d&rsquo;h&ocirc;te</i>, and that
+I would receive no lodgers. Once, and once only, I relaxed
+this rule in favour of two American women, who sent me to
+sleep by a lengthy quarrel of words, woke me in the night
+to witness its crisis in a fisticuff <i>duello</i>, and left in the morning,
+after having taken a fancy to some of my moveables
+which were most easily removeable. I had on my staff my
+black servant Mac, the little girl I have before alluded to, and
+a native cook. I had had many opportunities of seeing how
+my brother conducted his business; and adopted his tariff
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg&nbsp;37]</a></span>
+of charges. For an ordinary dinner my charge was four
+shillings; eggs and chickens were, as I have before said,
+distinct luxuries, and fetched high prices.</p>
+
+<p>Four crowds generally passed through Cruces every
+month. In these were to be found passengers to and from
+Chili, Peru, and Lima, as well as California and America.
+The distance from Cruces to Panama was not great&mdash;only
+twenty miles, in fact; but the journey, from the want of
+roads and the roughness of the country, was a most fatiguing
+one. In some parts&mdash;as I found when I made the
+journey, in company with my brother&mdash;it was almost impassable;
+and for more than half the distance, three miles
+an hour was considered splendid progress. The great
+majority of the travellers were rough, rude men, of dirty,
+quarrelsome habits; the others were more civilized and
+more dangerous. And it was not long before I grew very
+tired of life in Cruces, although I made money rapidly, and
+pressed my brother to return to Kingston. Poor fellow!
+it would have been well for him had he done so; for he
+stayed only to find a grave on the Isthmus of Panama.</p>
+
+<p>The company at my <i>table d&rsquo;h&ocirc;te</i> was not over select;
+and it was often very difficult for an unprotected female to
+manage them, although I always did my best to put them
+in good humour. Among other comforts, I used to hire a
+black barber, for the rather large consideration of two
+pounds, to shave my male guests. You can scarcely conceive
+the pleasure and comfort an American feels in a clean
+chin; and I believe my barber attracted considerable custom
+to the British Hotel at Cruces. I had a little out-house
+erected for his especial convenience; and there, well provided
+with towels, and armed with plenty of razors, a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg&nbsp;38]</a></span>
+brush of extraordinary size, and a foaming sea of lather,
+Jos&eacute; shaved the new-comers. The rivalry to get within
+reach of his huge brush was very great; and the threats
+used by the neglected, when the grinning black was considered
+guilty of any interested partiality, were of the
+fiercest description.</p>
+
+<p>This duty over, they and their coarser female companions&mdash;many
+of them well known to us, for they travelled
+backwards and forwards across the Isthmus, hanging
+on to the foolish gold-finders&mdash;attacked the dinner, very
+often with great lack of decency. It was no use giving
+them carving-knives and forks, for very often they laid
+their own down to insert a dirty hairy hand into a full
+dish; while the floor soon bore evidences of the great
+national American habit of expectoration. Very often
+quarrels would arise during the progress of dinner; and
+more than once I thought the knives, which they nearly
+swallowed at every mouthful, would have been turned
+against one another. It was, I always thought, extremely
+fortunate that the reckless men rarely stimulated their
+excitable passions with strong drink. Tea and coffee were
+the common beverages of the Americans; Englishmen, and
+men of other nations, being generally distinguishable by
+their demand for wine and spirits. But the Yankee&rsquo;s
+capacity for swilling tea and coffee was prodigious. I saw
+one man drink ten cups of coffee; and finding his appetite
+still unsatisfied, I ran across to my brother for advice.
+There was a merry twinkle in his eyes as he whispered,
+&ldquo;I always put in a good spoonful of salt after the sixth
+cup. It chokes them off admirably.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg&nbsp;39]</a></span>
+It was no easy thing to avoid being robbed and cheated
+by the less scrupulous travellers; although I think it was
+only the &rsquo;cutest Yankee who stood any fair chance of outwitting
+me. I remember an instance of the biter bit, which
+I will narrate, hoping it may make my reader laugh as
+heartily as its recollection makes me. He was a tall, thin
+Yankee, with a furtive glance of the eyes, and an amazing
+appetite, which he seemed nothing loath to indulge: his
+appetite for eggs especially seemed unbounded. Now, I
+have more than once said how expensive eggs were; and
+this day they happened to be eightpence apiece. Our plan
+was to charge every diner according to the number of shells
+found upon his plate. Now, I noticed how eagerly my thin
+guest attacked my eggs, and marvelled somewhat at the
+scanty pile of shells before him. My suspicions once excited,
+I soon fathomed my Yankee friend&rsquo;s dodge. As soon
+as he had devoured the eggs, he conveyed furtively the
+shells beneath the table, and distributed them impartially
+at the feet of his companions. I gave my little black maid
+a piece of chalk, and instructions; and creeping under the
+table, she counted the scattered shells, and chalked the
+number on the tail of his coat. And when he came up to
+pay his score, he gave up his number of eggs in a loud
+voice; and when I contradicted him, and referred to the
+coat-<em>tale</em> in corroboration of <em>my</em> score, there was a general
+laugh against him. But there was a nasty expression in
+his cat-like eyes, and an unpleasant allusion to mine, which
+were not agreeable, and dissuaded me from playing any
+more practical jokes upon the Yankees.</p>
+
+<p>I followed my brother&rsquo;s example closely, and forbade
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg&nbsp;40]</a></span>
+all gambling in my hotel. But I got some idea of its fruits
+from the cases brought to me for surgical treatment from
+the faro and monte tables. Gambling at Cruces, and on the
+Isthmus generally, was a business by which money was
+wormed out of the gold-seekers and gold-finders. No attempt
+was made to render it attractive, as I have seen done
+elsewhere. The gambling-house was often plainer than our
+hotels; and but for the green tables, with their piles of
+money and gold-dust, watched over by a well-armed determined
+banker, and the eager gamblers around, you would
+not know that you were in the vicinity of a spot which the
+English at home designate by a very decided and extreme
+name. A Dr. Casey&mdash;everybody familiar with the Americans
+knows their fondness for titles&mdash;owned the most favoured table
+in Cruces; and this, although he was known
+to be a reckless and unscrupulous villain. Most of them
+knew that he had been hunted out of San Francisco; and
+at that time&mdash;years before the Vigilance Committee commenced
+their labours of purification&mdash;a man too bad for
+that city must have been a prodigy of crime: and yet, and
+although he was violent-tempered, and had a knack of
+referring the slightest dispute to his revolver, his table
+was always crowded; probably because&mdash;the greatest
+rogues have some good qualities&mdash;he was honest in his
+way, and played fairly.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally some distinguished passengers passed on
+the upward and downward tides of rascality and ruffianism,
+that swept periodically through Cruces. Came one day,
+Lola Montes, in the full zenith of her evil fame, bound for
+California, with a strange suite. A good-looking, bold
+woman, with fine, bad eyes, and a determined bearing;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg&nbsp;41]</a></span>
+dressed ostentatiously in perfect male attire, with shirt-collar
+turned down over a velvet lapelled coat, richly worked
+shirt-front, black hat, French unmentionables, and natty,
+polished boots with spurs. She carried in her hand a
+handsome riding-whip, which she could use as well in the
+streets of Cruces as in the towns of Europe; for an impertinent
+American, presuming&mdash;perhaps not unnaturally&mdash;upon
+her reputation, laid hold jestingly of the tails of her
+long coat, and as a lesson received a cut across his face that
+must have marked him for some days. I did not wait to
+see the row that followed, and was glad when the wretched
+woman rode off on the following morning. A very different
+notoriety followed her at some interval of time&mdash;Miss
+Catherine Hayes, on her successful singing tour, who disappointed
+us all by refusing to sing at Cruces; and after
+her came an English bishop from Australia, who need have
+been a member of the church militant to secure his pretty
+wife from the host of admirers she had gained during her
+day&rsquo;s journey from Panama.</p>
+
+<p>Very quarrelsome were the majority of the crowds,
+holding life cheap, as all bad men strangely do&mdash;equally
+prepared to take or lose it upon the slightest provocation.
+Few tales of horror in Panama could be questioned on the
+ground of improbability. Not less partial were many of
+the natives of Cruces to the use of the knife; preferring,
+by the way, to administer sly stabs in the back, when no
+one was by to see the dastard blow dealt. Terribly bullied
+by the Americans were the boatmen and muleteers, who
+were reviled, shot, and stabbed by these free and independent
+filibusters, who would fain whop all creation abroad as
+they do their slaves at home. Whenever any Englishmen
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg&nbsp;42]</a></span>
+were present, and in a position to interfere with success,
+this bullying was checked; and they found, instead of the
+poor Spanish Indians, foemen worthy of their steel or lead.
+I must do them credit to say, that they were never loath to
+fight any one that desired that passing excitement, and
+thought little of ending their journey of life abruptly at
+the wretched wayside town of Cruces. It very often happened
+so, and over many a hasty head and ready hand have
+I seen the sod roughly pressed down, their hot hearts stilled
+suddenly in some senseless quarrel. And so in time I grew
+to have some considerable experience in the treatment of
+knife and gun-shot wounds.</p>
+
+<p>One night I heard a great noise outside my window,
+and on rising found a poor boatman moaning piteously, and
+in a strange jumble of many languages begging me to help
+him. At first I was afraid to open the door, on account of
+the noisy mob which soon joined him, for villainy was very
+shrewd at Cruces; but at last I admitted him, and found
+that the poor wretch&rsquo;s ears had been cruelly split by some
+hasty citizen of the United States. I stitched them up as
+well as I could, and silenced his cries. And at any time,
+if you happened to be near the river when a crowd were
+arriving or departing, your ears would be regaled with a
+choice chorus of threats, of which ear-splitting, eye-gouging,
+cow-hiding, and the application of revolvers were the
+mildest. Against the negroes, of whom there were many
+in the Isthmus, and who almost invariably filled the municipal
+offices, and took the lead in every way, the Yankees
+had a strong prejudice; but it was wonderful to see how
+freedom and equality elevate men, and the same negro who
+perhaps in Tennessee would have cowered like a beaten
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg&nbsp;43]</a></span>
+child or dog beneath an American&rsquo;s uplifted hand, would
+face him boldly here, and by equal courage and superior
+physical strength cow his old oppressor.</p>
+
+<p>When more than ordinary squabbles occurred in the
+street or at the gambling-tables, the assistance of the
+soldier-police of New Granada was called in, and the affair
+sometimes assumed the character of a regular skirmish.
+The soldiers&mdash;I wish I could speak better of them&mdash;were a
+dirty, cowardly, indolent set, more prone to use their knives
+than their legitimate arms, and bore old rusty muskets, and
+very often marched unshod. Their officers were in outward
+appearance a few shades superior to the men they commanded,
+but, as respects military proficiency, were their equals.
+Add to this description of their <em>personnel</em> the well-known
+fact, that you might commit the grossest injustice, and
+could obtain the simplest justice only by lavish bribery,
+and you may form some idea of our military protectors.</p>
+
+<p>Very practised and skilful in thieving were the native
+population of Cruces&mdash;I speak of the majority, and except
+the negroes&mdash;always more inclined to do a dishonest night&rsquo;s
+labour at great risk, than an honest day&rsquo;s work for fair
+wages; for justice was always administered strictly to the
+poor natives&mdash;it was only the foreigners who could evade
+it or purchase exemption. Punishment was severe; and in
+extreme cases the convicts were sent to Carthagena, there
+to suffer imprisonment of a terrible character. Indeed,
+from what I heard of the New Granada prisons, I thought
+no other country could match them, and continued to think
+so until I read how the ingenuity in cruelty of his Majesty
+the King of Naples put the torturers of the New Granada
+Republic to the blush.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg&nbsp;44]</a></span>
+I generally avoided claiming the protection of the law
+whilst on the Isthmus, for I found it was&mdash;as is the case in
+civilized England from other causes&mdash;rather an expensive
+luxury. Once only I took a thief caught in the act before
+the alcalde, and claimed the administration of justice. The
+court-house was a low bamboo shed, before which some
+dirty Spanish-Indian soldiers were lounging; and inside,
+the alcalde, a negro, was reclining in a dirty hammock,
+smoking coolly, hearing evidence, and pronouncing judgment
+upon the wretched culprits, who were trembling
+before his dusky majesty. I had attended him while suffering
+from an attack of cholera, and directly he saw me
+he rose from his hammock, and received me in a ceremonious,
+grand manner, and gave orders that coffee should be
+brought to me. He had a very pretty white wife, who
+joined us; and then the alcalde politely offered me a
+<i>cigarito</i>&mdash;having declined which, he listened to my statement
+with great attention. All this, however, did not
+prevent my leaving the necessary fee in furtherance of
+justice, nor his accepting it. Its consequence was, that
+the thief, instead of being punished as a criminal, was
+ordered to pay me the value of the stolen goods; which,
+after weeks of hesitation and delay, she eventually did, in
+pearls, combs, and other curiosities.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever an American was arrested by the New Granada
+authorities, justice had a hard struggle for the
+mastery, and rarely obtained it. Once I was present at
+the court-house, when an American was brought in heavily
+ironed, charged with having committed a highway robbery
+&mdash;if I may use the term where there were no roads&mdash;on
+some travellers from Chili. Around the frightened soldiers
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg&nbsp;45]</a></span>
+swelled an angry crowd of brother Americans, abusing and
+threatening the authorities in no measured terms, all of
+them indignant that a nigger should presume to judge one
+of their countrymen. At last their violence so roused the
+sleepy alcalde, that he positively threw himself from his
+hammock, laid down his cigarito, and gave such very determined
+orders to his soldiers that he succeeded in checking
+the riot. Then, with an air of decision that puzzled everybody,
+he addressed the crowd, declaring angrily, that since
+the Americans came the country had known no peace, that
+robberies and crimes of every sort had increased, and ending
+by expressing his determination to make strangers respect
+the laws of the Republic, and to retain the prisoner; and
+if found guilty, punish him as he deserved. The Americans
+seemed too astonished at the audacity of the black man,
+who dared thus to beard them, to offer any resistance; but I
+believe that the prisoner was allowed ultimately to escape.</p>
+
+<p>I once had a narrow escape from the thieves of Cruces.
+I had been down to Chagres for some stores, and returning,
+late in the evening, too tired to put away my packages,
+had retired to rest at once. My little maid, who was not
+so fatigued as I was, and slept more lightly, woke me in
+the night to listen to a noise in the thatch, at the further
+end of the store; but I was so accustomed to hear the half-starved
+mules of Cruces munching my thatch, that I
+listened lazily for a few minutes, and then went unsuspiciously
+into another heavy sleep. I do not know how
+long it was before I was again awoke by the child&rsquo;s loud
+screams and cries of &ldquo;Hombro&mdash;landro;&rdquo; and sure enough,
+by the light of the dying fire, I saw a fellow stealing away
+with my dress, in the pocket of which was my purse. I was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg&nbsp;46]</a></span>
+about to rush forward, when the fire gleamed on a villainous-looking
+knife in his hand; so I stood still, and screamed
+loudly, hoping to arouse my brother over the way. For
+a moment the thief seemed inclined to silence me, and had
+taken a few steps forward, when I took up an old rusty
+horse-pistol which my brother had given me that I might
+look determined, and snatching down the can of ground
+coffee, proceeded to prime it, still screaming as loudly as my
+strong lungs would permit, until the rascal turned tail and
+stole away through the roof. The thieves usually buried
+their spoil like dogs, as they were; but this fellow had
+only time to hide it behind a bush, where it was found on
+the following morning, and claimed by me.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Mrs. Seacole very likely refers to Macbeth. But it was the
+witches he abused.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>MIGRATION TO GORGONA&mdash;FAREWELL DINNERS AND SPEECHES&mdash;A
+BUILDING SPECULATION&mdash;LIFE IN GORGONA&mdash;SYMPATHY WITH
+AMERICAN SLAVES&mdash;DR. CASEY IN TROUBLE&mdash;FLOODS AND FIRES&mdash;YANKEE
+INDEPENDENCE AND FREEDOM.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I remained at Cruces until the rainy months came to an
+end, and the river grew too shallow to be navigable by the
+boats higher up than Gorgona; and then we all made preparations
+for a flitting to that place. But before starting,
+it appeared to be the custom for the store and hotel keepers
+to exchange parting visits, and to many of these parties I,
+in virtue of my recent services to the community, received
+invitations. The most important social meeting took place
+on the anniversary of the declaration of American independence,
+at my brother&rsquo;s hotel, where a score of zealous
+Americans dined most heartily&mdash;as they never fail to do;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg&nbsp;47]</a></span>
+and, as it was an especial occasion, drank champagne
+liberally at twelve shillings a bottle. And, after the usual
+patriotic toasts had been duly honoured, they proposed
+&ldquo;the ladies,&rdquo; with an especial reference to myself, in a
+speech which I thought worth noting down at the time.
+The spokesman was a thin, sallow-looking American, with
+a pompous and yet rapid delivery, and a habit of turning
+over his words with his quid before delivering them, and
+clearing his mouth after each sentence, perhaps to make
+room for the next. I shall beg the reader to consider that
+the blanks express the time expended on this operation.
+He dashed into his work at once, rolling up and getting rid
+of his sentences as he went on:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Well, gentlemen, I expect you&rsquo;ll all support me in a
+drinking of this toast that I du&mdash;&mdash;. Aunty Seacole, gentlemen;
+I give you, Aunty Seacole&mdash;&mdash;. We can&rsquo;t du less
+for her, after what she&rsquo;s done for us&mdash;&mdash;, when the cholera
+was among us, gentlemen&mdash;&mdash;, not many months ago&mdash;&mdash;.
+So, I say, God bless the best yaller woman He ever made&mdash;&mdash;,
+from Jamaica, gentlemen&mdash;&mdash;, from the Isle of
+Springs&mdash;&mdash;Well, gentlemen, I expect there are only tu things
+we&rsquo;re vexed for&mdash;&mdash;; and the first is, that she ain&rsquo;t one of
+us&mdash;&mdash;, a citizen of the great United States&mdash;&mdash;; and the
+other thing is, gentlemen&mdash;&mdash;, that Providence made her
+a yaller woman. I calculate, gentlemen, you&rsquo;re all as
+vexed as I am that she&rsquo;s not wholly white&mdash;&mdash;, but I du
+reckon on your rejoicing with me that she&rsquo;s so many shades
+removed from being entirely black&mdash;&mdash;; and I guess, if we
+could bleach her by any means we would&mdash;&mdash;, and thus
+make her as acceptable in any company as she deserves to
+be&mdash;&mdash;. Gentlemen, I give you Aunty Seacole!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg&nbsp;48]</a></span>
+And so the orator sat down amidst much applause. It
+may be supposed that I did not need much persuasion to
+return thanks, burning, as I was, to tell them my mind on
+the subject of my colour. Indeed, if my brother had not
+checked me, I should have given them my thoughts somewhat
+too freely. As it was, I said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Gentlemen,&mdash;I return you my best thanks for your
+kindness in drinking my health. As for what I have done
+in Cruces, Providence evidently made me to be useful,
+and I can&rsquo;t help it. But, I must say, that I don&rsquo;t altogether
+appreciate your friend&rsquo;s kind wishes with respect to
+my complexion. If it had been as dark as any nigger&rsquo;s, I
+should have been just as happy and as useful, and as much
+respected by those whose respect I value; and as to his
+offer of bleaching me, I should, even if it were practicable,
+decline it without any thanks. As to the society which
+the process might gain me admission into, all I can say is,
+that, judging from the specimens I have met with here and
+elsewhere, I don&rsquo;t think that I shall lose much by being
+excluded from it. So, gentlemen, I drink to you and the
+general reformation of American manners.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I do not think that they altogether admired my speech,
+but I was a somewhat privileged person, and they laughed
+at it good-naturedly enough. Perhaps (for I was not in
+the best humour myself) I should have been better pleased
+if they had been angry.</p>
+
+<p>Rightly, I ought to have gone down to Gorgona a few
+weeks before Cruces was deserted, and secured an hotel;
+but I did not give up all hope of persuading my brother to
+leave the Isthmus until the very last moment, and then, of
+course, a suitable house was not to be hired in Gorgona for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg&nbsp;49]</a></span>
+love or money. Seeing his fixed determination to stay, I
+consented to remain with him, for he was young and often
+ill, and set hard to work to settle myself somewhere.
+With the aid of an old Jamaica friend, who had settled
+at Gorgona, I at last found a miserable little hut for sale,
+and bought it for a hundred dollars. It consisted of one
+room only, and was, in its then condition, utterly unfit
+for my purpose; but I determined to set to work and
+build on to it&mdash;by no means the hazardous speculation in
+Gorgona, where bricks and mortar are unknown, that it is
+in England. The alcalde&rsquo;s permission to make use of the
+adjacent ground was obtained for a moderate consideration,
+and plenty of material was procurable from the opposite
+bank of the river. An American, whom I had cured
+of the cholera at Cruces, lent me his boat, and I hired
+two or three natives to cut down and shape the posts and
+bamboo poles. Directly these were raised, Mac and my
+little maid set to work and filled up the spaces between
+them with split bamboo canes and reeds, and before long
+my new hotel was ready to be roofed. The building process
+was simple enough, and I soon found myself in possession
+of a capital dining-room some thirty feet in length,
+which was gaily hung with coloured calico, concealing all
+defects of construction, and lighted with large oil lamps;
+a store-room, bar, and a small private apartment for ladies.
+Altogether, although I had to pay my labourers four shillings
+a day, the whole building did not cost me more than
+my brother paid for three months&rsquo; rent of his hotel. I gave
+the travelling world to understand that I intended to devote
+my establishment principally to the entertainment of
+ladies, and the care of those who might fall ill on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg&nbsp;50]</a></span>
+route, and I found the scheme answered admirably. And
+yet, although the speculation paid well, I soon grew as
+weary of my life in Gorgona as I had been at Cruces; and
+when I found my brother proof against all persuasion to
+quit the Isthmus, I began to entertain serious thoughts of
+leaving him.</p>
+
+<p>Nor was it altogether my old roving inclination which
+led me to desire a change, although I dare say it had something
+to do with it. My present life was not agreeable for a
+woman with the least delicacy or refinement; and of female
+society I had none. Indeed, the females who crossed my
+path were about as unpleasant specimens of the fair sex
+as one could well wish to avoid. With very few exceptions,
+those who were not bad were very disagreeable, and
+as the majority came from the Southern States of America,
+and showed an instinctive repugnance against any one
+whose countenance claimed for her kindred with their
+slaves, my position was far from a pleasant one. Not that
+it ever gave me any annoyance; they were glad of my
+stores and comforts, I made money out of their wants; nor
+do I think our bond of connection was ever closer; only
+this, if any of them came to me sick and suffering (I
+say this out of simple justice to myself), I forgot everything,
+except that she was my sister, and that it was my
+duty to help her.</p>
+
+<p>I may have before said that the citizens of the New
+Granada Republic had a strong prejudice against all Americans.
+It is not difficult to assign a cause for this. In the
+first place, many of the negroes, fugitive from the Southern
+States, had sought refuge in this and the other States of
+Central America, where every profession was open to them;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg&nbsp;51]</a></span>
+and as they were generally superior men&mdash;evinced perhaps
+by their hatred of their old condition and their successful
+flight&mdash;they soon rose to positions of eminence in New Granada.
+In the priesthood, in the army, in all municipal
+offices, the self-liberated negroes were invariably found in the
+foremost rank; and the people, for some reason&mdash;perhaps
+because they recognised in them superior talents for administration&mdash;always
+respected them more than, and preferred
+them to, their native rulers. So that, influenced
+naturally by these freed slaves, who bore themselves before
+their old masters bravely and like men, the New Granada
+people were strongly prejudiced against the Americans.
+And in the second and third places, they feared their
+quarrelsome, bullying habits&mdash;be it remembered that the
+crowds to California were of the lowest sorts, many of
+whom have since fertilised Cuban and Nicaraguan soil&mdash;and
+dreaded their schemes for annexation. To such an
+extent was this amusingly carried, that when the American
+Railway Company took possession of Navy Bay, and
+christened it Aspinwall, after the name of their Chairman,
+the native authorities refused to recognise their right to name
+any portion of the Republic, and pertinaciously returned
+all letters directed to Aspinwall, with &ldquo;no such place
+known&rdquo; marked upon them in the very spot for which
+they were intended. And, in addition to this, the legal
+authorities refused to compel any defendant to appear who
+was described as of Aspinwall, and put every plaintiff out
+of court who described himself as residing in that unrecognised
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Under these circumstances, my readers can easily understand
+that when any Americans crossed the Isthmus,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg&nbsp;52]</a></span>
+accompanied by their slaves, the Cruces and Gorgona people
+were restlessly anxious to whisper into their ears offers of
+freedom and hints how easy escape would be. Nor were
+the authorities at all inclined to aid in the recapture of a
+runaway slave. So that, as it was necessary for the losers
+to go on with the crowd, the fugitive invariably escaped.
+It is one of the maxims of the New Granada constitution&mdash;as
+it is, I believe, of the English&mdash;that on a slave
+touching its soil his chains fall from him. Rather than
+irritate so dangerous a neighbour as America, this rule was
+rarely supported; but I remember the following instance
+of its successful application.</p>
+
+<p>A young American woman, whose character can be best
+described by the word &ldquo;vicious,&rdquo; fell ill at Gorgona, and
+was left behind by her companions under the charge of a
+young negro, her slave, whom she treated most inhumanly,
+as was evinced by the poor girl&rsquo;s frequent screams when
+under the lash. One night her cries were so distressing, that
+Gorgona could stand it no longer, but broke into the house
+and found the chattel bound hand and foot, naked, and being
+severely lashed. Despite the threats and astonishment of
+the mistress, they were both carried off on the following
+morning, before the alcalde, himself a man of colour, and
+of a very humane disposition. When the particulars of
+the case were laid before him, he became strongly excited,
+and called upon the woman to offer an explanation of her
+cruelty. She treated it with the coolest unconcern&mdash;&ldquo;The
+girl was her property, worth so many dollars, and a child at
+New Orleans; had misbehaved herself, and been properly
+corrected. The alcalde must be drunk or a fool, or both
+together, to interfere between an American and her
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg&nbsp;53]</a></span>
+property.&rdquo; Her coolness vanished, however, when the
+alcalde turned round to the girl and told her that she was
+free to leave her mistress when she liked; and when she
+heard the irrepressible cheering of the crowded court-hut
+at the alcalde&rsquo;s humanity and boldness, and saw the slave&rsquo;s
+face flush with delight at the judge&rsquo;s words, she became
+terribly enraged; made use of the most fearful threats, and
+would have wreaked summary vengeance on her late
+chattel had not the clumsy soldiery interfered. Then,
+with demoniac refinement of cruelty, she bethought
+herself of the girl&rsquo;s baby at New Orleans still in her
+power, and threatened most horrible torture to the child
+if its mother dared to accept the alcalde&rsquo;s offer.</p>
+
+<p>The poor girl trembled and covered her face with her
+hands, as though to shut out some fearful sight, and, I
+think, had we not persuaded her to the contrary, that she
+would have sacrificed her newly won freedom for the
+child&rsquo;s sake. But we knew very well that when the heat
+of passion had subsided, the threatener would be too &rsquo;cute
+to injure her own property; and at once set afloat a subscription
+for the purchase of the child. The issue of the
+tale I do not know, as the woman was very properly removed
+into the interior of the country.</p>
+
+<p>Life at Gorgona resembled life at Cruces so nearly that
+it does not need a separate description. Down with the
+store and hotel keepers came the muleteers and mules,
+porters and hangers-on, idlers and thieves, gamblers and
+dancing women; and soon the monte-tables were fitted up,
+and plying their deadly trade; and the dancers charmed
+the susceptible travellers as successfully in the dirty streets
+of Gorgona as they had previously done in the unwholesome
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg&nbsp;54]</a></span>
+precincts of Cruces. And Dr. Casey was very nearly
+getting himself into serious trouble, from too great a readiness
+to use his revolver. Still, he had a better excuse for
+bloodshed this time than might have been found for his previous
+breaches of the sixth commandment. Among the desperadoes
+who frequented his gambling-hut, during their
+short stay in Gorgona, was conceived the desperate plan of
+putting out the lights, and upsetting Casey&rsquo;s table&mdash;trusting
+in the confusion to carry off the piles of money upon it.
+The first part of their programme was successfully carried
+out; but the second was frustrated by the Doctor promptly
+firing his revolver into the dark, and hitting an unoffending
+boy in the hip. And at this crisis the Gorgona police entered,
+carried off all the parties they could lay hands upon
+(including the Doctor) to prison, and brought the wounded
+boy to me.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning came a most urgent request
+that I would visit the imprisoned Doctor. I found him
+desperately angry, but somewhat nervous too, for the
+alcalde was known to be no friend to the Americans,
+owed Casey more than one grudge, and had shown recently
+a disposition to enforce the laws.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I say, Mrs. Seacole, how&rsquo;s that&nbsp;&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;boy?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, Dr. Casey, how could you shoot the poor lad, and
+now call him bad names, as though he&rsquo;d injured you? He
+is very ill indeed&mdash;may die; so I advise you to think
+seriously of your position.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;But, Madame Seacole,&rdquo; (this in a very altered tone),
+&ldquo;<em>you&rsquo;ll</em> surely help me? <em>you&rsquo;ll</em> surely tell the alcalde that
+the wound&rsquo;s a slight one? He&rsquo;s a friend of yours, and
+will let me out of this hole. Come, Madame Seacole,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg&nbsp;55]</a></span>
+you&rsquo;ll never leave me to be murdered by these bloodthirsty
+savages?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;What can I do or say, Dr. Casey? I must speak the
+truth, and the ball is still in the poor lad&rsquo;s hip,&rdquo; I answered,
+for I enjoyed the fellow&rsquo;s fear too much to help him. However,
+he sent some of his friends to the boy&rsquo;s father, and
+bribed him to take the lad from my care, and send him to
+Navy Bay, to a surgeon there. Of course, he never returned
+to prosecute Dr. Casey; and he was left with the alcalde
+only to deal with, who, although he hated the man, could
+not resist his money, and so set him free.</p>
+
+<p>Gorgona lying lower than Cruces, its inhabitants more
+frequently enjoyed the excitement of a flood. After heavy
+rains, the river would rise so rapidly that in a few hours the
+chief part of the place would be under water. On such
+occasions the scene was unusually exciting. As the water
+crept up the street, the frightened householders kept removing
+their goods and furniture to higher ground; while here
+and there, where the waters had surrounded them unawares,
+boats were sent to their rescue. The houses, not made to
+resist much wind or water, often gave way, and were carried
+down the Chagres. Meanwhile, the thieves were the
+busiest&mdash;the honest folks, forgetting the true old adage,
+&ldquo;God helps those who help themselves,&rdquo; confining their
+exertions to bringing down their favourite saints to the
+water&rsquo;s edge, and invoking their interposition.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately my hotel was at the upper end of the town,
+where the floods had been rarely known to extend; and
+although there was a sufficient chance of the water reaching
+me to compel me to have all my stores, etc., ready
+packed for removal, I escaped. Some distressing losses
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg&nbsp;56]</a></span>
+occurred. A Frenchman, a near neighbour, whose house
+was surrounded by the waters before he could remove his
+goods, grew so frantic at the loss, that he obstinately refused
+to quit his falling house; and some force had to be
+used before they could save his life.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely had the ravages of the last flood been repaired
+when fire marked Gorgona for its prey. The conflagration
+began at a store by the river-side; but it spread rapidly,
+and before long all Gorgona was in danger. The town
+happened to be very full that night, two crowds having
+met there, and there was great confusion; but at last the
+lazy soldier-police, aided by the Americans, succeeded in
+pulling down some old crazy huts, and checking the fire&rsquo;s
+progress. The travellers were in sore plight, many of
+them being reduced to sleep upon their luggage, piled in
+the drenched streets. My hotel had some interesting inmates,
+for a poor young creature, borne in from one of the
+burning houses, became a mother during the night; and
+a stout little lassie opened its eyes upon this waesome
+world during the excitement and danger of a Gorgona
+conflagration.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after this, tired to death of life in Panama, I
+handed over my hotel to my brother, and returned to
+Kingston. On the way thither I experienced another instance
+of American politeness, which I cannot help recording;
+first reminding my readers of what I have previously
+said of the character of the Californian travellers. Anxious
+to get home quickly, I took my passage in the first steamer
+that left Navy Bay&mdash;an American one; and late in the evening
+said farewell to the friends I had been staying with, and
+went on board. A very kind friend, an American merchant,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg&nbsp;57]</a></span>
+doing a large business at Navy Bay, had tried hard to persuade
+me to delay my journey until the English company&rsquo;s
+steamer called; without, however, giving any good reasons
+for his wish. So, with Mac and my little maid, I passed
+through the crowd of female passengers on deck, and
+sought the privacy of the saloon. Before I had been long
+there, two ladies came to me, and in their cool, straightforward
+manner, questioned me.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Where air you going?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;To Kingston.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;And how air you going?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;By sea.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t be impertinent, yaller woman. By what conveyance
+air you going?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;By this steamer, of course. I&rsquo;ve paid for my passage.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>They went away with this information; and in a short
+time eight or nine others came and surrounded me, asking
+the same questions. My answers&mdash;and I was very particular&mdash;raised
+quite a storm of uncomplimentary remarks.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Guess a nigger woman don&rsquo;t go along with us in this
+saloon,&rdquo; said one. &ldquo;I never travelled with a nigger yet,
+and I expect I shan&rsquo;t begin now,&rdquo; said another; while
+some children had taken my little servant Mary in hand,
+and were practising on her the politenesses which their
+parents were favouring me with&mdash;only, as is the wont of
+children, they were crueller. I cannot help it if I shock
+my readers; but the <em>truth</em> is, that one positively spat in
+poor little Mary&rsquo;s frightened yellow face.</p>
+
+<p>At last an old American lady came to where I sat, and
+gave me some staid advice. &ldquo;Well, now, I tell you for
+your good, you&rsquo;d better quit this, and not drive my people
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg&nbsp;58]</a></span>
+to extremities. If you do, you&rsquo;ll be sorry for it, I expect.&rdquo;
+Thus harassed, I appealed to the stewardess&mdash;a tall sour-looking
+woman, flat and thin as a dressed-up broomstick.
+She asked me sundry questions as to how and when I had
+taken my passage; until, tired beyond all endurance, I
+said, &ldquo;My good woman, put me anywhere&mdash;under a boat&mdash;in
+your store-room, so that I can get to Kingston somehow.&rdquo;
+But the stewardess was not to be moved.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s nowhere but the saloon, and you can&rsquo;t expect
+to stay with the white people, that&rsquo;s clear. Flesh and
+blood can stand a good deal of aggravation; but not that.
+If the Britishers is so took up with coloured people, that&rsquo;s
+their business; but it won&rsquo;t do here.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>This last remark was in answer to an Englishman,
+whose advice to me was not to leave my seat for any of
+them. He made matters worse; until at last I lost my
+temper, and calling Mac, bade him get my things together,
+and went up to the captain&mdash;a good honest man. He and
+some of the black crew and the black cook, who showed
+his teeth most viciously, were much annoyed. Muttering
+about its being a custom of the country, the captain gave
+me an order upon the agent for the money I had paid;
+and so, at twelve o&rsquo;clock at night, I was landed again upon
+the wharf of Navy Bay.</p>
+
+<p>My American friends were vastly annoyed, but not
+much surprised; and two days later, the English steamer,
+the &ldquo;Eagle,&rdquo; in charge of my old friend, Captain B&mdash;&mdash;,
+touched at Navy Bay, and carried me to Kingston.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg&nbsp;59]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>THE YELLOW FEVER IN JAMAICA&mdash;MY EXPERIENCE OF DEATH-BED
+SCENES&mdash;I LEAVE AGAIN FOR NAVY BAY, AND OPEN A STORE THERE&mdash;I
+AM ATTACKED WITH THE GOLD FEVER, AND START FOR ESCRIBANOS&mdash;LIFE
+IN THE INTERIOR OF THE REPUBLIC OF NEW GRANADA&mdash;A
+REVOLUTIONARY CONSPIRACY ON A SMALL SCALE&mdash;THE
+DINNER DELICACIES OF ESCRIBANOS&mdash;JOURNEY UP THE PALMILLA
+RIVER&mdash;A FEW WORDS ON THE PRESENT ASPECT OF AFFAIRS ON
+THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I stayed in Jamaica eight months out of the year 1853,
+still remembered in the island for its suffering and gloom.
+I returned just in time to find my services, with many
+others, needful; for the yellow fever never made a more
+determined effort to exterminate the English in Jamaica
+than it did in that dreadful year. So violent was the epidemic,
+that some of my people fell victims to its fury, a
+thing rarely heard of before. My house was full of sufferers&mdash;officers,
+their wives and children. Very often they
+were borne in from the ships in the harbour&mdash;sometimes
+in a dying state, sometimes&mdash;after long and distressing
+struggles with the grim foe&mdash;to recover. Habituated as I
+had become with death in its most harrowing forms, I
+found these scenes more difficult to bear than any I had
+previously borne a part in; and for this reason perhaps,
+that I had not only to cheer the death-bed of the sufferer,
+but, far more trying task, to soothe the passionate grief of
+wife or husband left behind. It was a terrible thing to
+see young people in the youth and bloom of life suddenly
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg&nbsp;60]</a></span>
+stricken down, not in battle with an enemy that threatened
+their country, but in vain contest with a climate that
+refused to adopt them. Indeed, the mother country pays
+a dear price for the possession of her colonies.</p>
+
+<p>I think all who are familiar with the West Indies will
+acknowledge that Nature has been favourable to strangers
+in a few respects, and that one of these has been in instilling
+into the hearts of the Creoles an affection for
+English people and an anxiety for their welfare, which
+shows itself warmest when they are sick and suffering. I
+can safely appeal on this point to any one who is acquainted
+with life in Jamaica. Another benefit has been conferred
+upon them by inclining the Creoles to practise the healing
+art, and inducing them to seek out the simple remedies which
+are available for the terrible diseases by which foreigners
+are attacked, and which are found growing under the same
+circumstances which produce the ills they minister to. So
+true is it that beside the nettle ever grows the cure for its
+sting.</p>
+
+<p>I do not willingly care to dwell upon scenes of suffering
+and death, but it is with such scenes that my life&rsquo;s experience
+has made me most familiar, and it is impossible to
+avoid their description now and then; and here I would
+fain record, in humble spirit, my conclusions, drawn from
+the bearing of those whom I have now and then accompanied
+a little distance on their way into the Valley of the
+Shadow of Death, on the awful and important question of
+religious feeling. Death is always terrible&mdash;no one need
+be ashamed to fear it. How we bear it depends much
+upon our constitutions. I have seen some brave men, who
+have smiled at the cruellest amputation, die trembling like
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg&nbsp;61]</a></span>
+children; while others, whose lives have been spent in
+avoidance of the least danger or trouble, have drawn their
+last painful breath like heroes, striking at their foe to the
+last, robbing him of his victory, and making their defeat a triumph.
+But I cannot trace <em>all</em> the peace and resignation
+which I have witnessed on many death-beds to temperament
+alone, although I believe it has much more to do with them
+than many teachers will allow. I have stood by receiving
+the last blessings of Christians; and closing the eyes of those
+who had nothing to trust to but the mercy of a God who
+will be far more merciful to us than we are to one another;
+and I say decidedly that the Christian&rsquo;s death is the glorious
+one, as is his life. You can never find a good man
+who is not a worker; he is no laggard in the race of life.
+Three, two, or one score years of life have been to him a
+season of labour in his appointed sphere; and as the work
+of the hands earns for us sweet rest by night, so does the
+heart&rsquo;s labour of a lifetime make the repose of heaven
+acceptable. This is my experience; and I remember one
+death, of a man whom I grew to love in a few short weeks,
+the thought of which stirs my heart now, and has sustained
+me in seasons of great danger; for before that time,
+if I had never feared death, I had not learnt to meet him
+with a brave, smiling face, and this he taught me.</p>
+
+<p>I must not tell you his name, for his friends live yet,
+and have been kind to me in many ways. One of them we
+shall meet on Crimean soil. He was a young surgeon, and
+as busy, light-hearted, and joyous as a good man should
+be; and when he fell ill they brought him to my house,
+where I nursed him, and grew fond of him&mdash;almost as
+fond as the poor lady his mother in England far away.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg&nbsp;62]</a></span>
+For some time we thought him safe, but at last the most
+terrible symptoms of the cruel disease showed themselves,
+and he knew that he must die. His thoughts were never
+for himself, but for those he had to leave behind; all his
+pity was for them. It was trying to see his poor hands
+tremblingly penning the last few words of leave-taking&mdash;trying
+to see how piteously the poor worn heart longed to
+see once more the old familiar faces of the loved ones in unconscious
+happiness at home; and yet I had to support him
+while this sad task was effected, and to give him all the
+help I could. I think he had some fondness for me, or,
+perhaps, his kind heart feigned a feeling that he saw would
+give me joy; for I used to call him &ldquo;My son&mdash;my dear
+child,&rdquo; and to weep over him in a very weak and silly
+manner perhaps.</p>
+
+<p>He sent for an old friend, Captain S&mdash;&mdash;; and when
+he came, I had to listen to the dictation of his simple will&mdash;his
+dog to one friend, his ring to another, his books to a
+third, his love and kind wishes to all; and that over, my
+poor son prepared himself to die&mdash;a child in all save a
+man&rsquo;s calm courage. He beckoned me to raise him
+in the bed, and, as I passed my arms around him, he
+saw the tears I could not repress, rolling down my
+brown cheeks, and thanked me with a few words.
+&ldquo;Let me lay my head upon your breast;&rdquo; and so he
+rested, now and then speaking lowly to himself, &ldquo;It&rsquo;s
+only that I miss my mother; but Heaven&rsquo;s will be done.&rdquo;
+He repeated this many times, until the Heaven he obeyed
+sent him in its mercy forgetfulness, and his thoughts no
+longer wandered to his earthly home. I heard glad words
+feebly uttered as I bent over him&mdash;words about
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg&nbsp;63]</a></span>
+&ldquo;Heaven&mdash;rest&mdash;rest&rdquo;&mdash;a holy Name many times repeated; and then
+with a smile and a stronger voice, &ldquo;Home! home!&rdquo; And
+so in a little while my arms no longer held him.</p>
+
+<p>I have a little gold brooch with his hair in it now. I
+wonder what inducement could be strong enough to cause
+me to part with that memorial, sent me by his mother some
+months later, with the following letter:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">My dear Madam</span>,&mdash;Will you do me the favour to
+accept the enclosed trifle, in remembrance of that dear son
+whose last moments were soothed by your kindness, and
+as a mark of the gratitude of, my dear Madam,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;Your ever sincere and obliged,<br />
+&ldquo;M&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;S&mdash;&mdash;.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After this, I was sent for by the medical authorities to
+provide nurses for the sick at Up-Park Camp, about a mile
+from Kingston; and leaving some nurses and my sister at
+home, I went there and did my best; but it was little we
+could do to mitigate the severity of the epidemic.</p>
+
+<p>About eight months after my return to Jamaica, it
+became necessary that some one should go to the Isthmus
+of Panama to wind up the affairs of my late hotel; and
+having another fit of restlessness, I prepared to return there
+myself. I found Navy Bay but little altered. It was
+evening when I arrived there; and my friend Mr. H&mdash;&mdash;,
+who came to meet me on the wharf, carefully piloted me
+through the wretched streets, giving me especial warning
+not to stumble over what looked like three long boxes,
+loosely covered with the <i>d&eacute;bris</i> of a fallen house. They
+had such a peculiar look about them that I stopped to ask
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg&nbsp;64]</a></span>
+what they were, receiving an answer which revived all
+my former memories of Darien life, &ldquo;Oh, they&rsquo;re only
+three Irishmen killed in a row a week ago, whom it&rsquo;s
+nobody&rsquo;s business to bury.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I went to Gorgona, wound up the affairs of the hotel,
+and, before returning to Navy Bay, took the occasion of accompanying
+my brother to the town of Panama. We did
+not go with the crowd, but rode alone on mules, taking with
+us three native guides on foot; and although the distance
+was not much over twenty miles, and we started at daybreak,
+we did not reach Panama until nightfall. But far from
+being surprised at this, my chief wonder was that we ever
+succeeded in getting over the journey. Through sand and
+mud, over hill and plain&mdash;through thick forests, deep
+gulleys, and over rapid streams, ran the track; the road
+sometimes being made of logs of wood laid transversely, with
+faggots stuffed between; while here and there we had to
+work our way through a tangled network of brushwood, and
+over broken rocks that seemed to have been piled together
+as stones for some giant&rsquo;s sling. We found Panama an old-fashioned,
+irregular town, with queer stone houses, almost
+all of which had been turned by the traders into stores.</p>
+
+<p>On my return to Navy Bay&mdash;or Colon, as the New
+Granadans would have it called&mdash;I again opened a store,
+and stayed there for three months or so. I did not find
+that society had improved much in my absence; indeed, it
+appeared to have grown more lawless. Endless quarrels,
+often resulting in bloodshed, took place between the
+strangers and the natives, and disturbed the peace of the
+town. Once the Spanish were incensed to such an extent,
+that they planned a general rising against the foreigners;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg&nbsp;65]</a></span>
+and but for the opportune arrival of an English war-steamer,
+the consequences might have been terrible. The
+Americans were well armed and ready; but the native
+population far outnumbered them.</p>
+
+<p>Altogether, I was not sorry when an opportunity offered
+itself to do something at one of the stations of the New
+Granada Gold-mining Company, Escribanos, about seventy
+miles from Navy Bay. I made the journey there in a little
+vessel, all communication by land from Navy Bay being impossible,
+on account of the thick, dense forests, that would
+have resisted the attempts of an army to cut its way through
+them. As I was at this place for some months altogether,
+and as it was the only portion of my life devoted to gold-seeking,
+I shall make no apologies for endeavouring to describe
+the out-of-the-way village-life of New Granada.</p>
+
+<p>Escribanos is in the province of Veraguas, in the
+State of New Granada&mdash;information uninteresting enough,
+I have little doubt, to all but a very few of my readers.
+It lies near the mouth of a rivulet bearing that name, which,
+leaving the river Belen, runs away to the sea on its own account,
+about a mile from the mouth of that river. It is a
+great neighbourhood for gold-mines; and about that time
+companies and private individuals were trying hard to turn
+them to good account. Near it is the Fort Bowen mine,
+and several others; some yielding silver, others gold ore,
+in small quantities. Others lie in the vicinity of the Palmilla&mdash;another
+river, which discharges itself into the sea
+about ten miles from Escribanos; and there were more eastward
+of it, near a similar river, the Coquelet. Legends
+were rife at that time, and they may be revived at no distant
+date, of the treasures to be found at Cucuyo, Zapetero,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg&nbsp;66]</a></span>
+Pananom&eacute;, and many other Indian villages on their banks,
+which in times gone by had yielded up golden treasures to
+the Old World. But at this time the yield of gold did not
+repay the labour and capital necessary to extract it from the
+quartz; and it can only prove successful if more economical
+methods can be discovered than those now used for that
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Carlos Alexander, the alcalde of Escribanos, had made
+a good thing out of the gold mania. The mine had belonged
+to him; had been sold at a fine price, and, passing
+through several hands, had at last come into possession of
+the Company who were now working it; its former owner
+settling down as ruler over the little community of two
+hundred souls that had collected at Escribanos. He was a
+black man; was fond of talking of his early life in slavery,
+and how he had escaped; and possessed no ordinary intellect.
+He possessed, also, a house, which in England a
+well-bred hound would not have accepted as a kennel; a
+white wife, and a pretty daughter, with a whity-brown
+complexion and a pleasant name&mdash;Juliana.</p>
+
+<p>Of this mine Mr. Day&mdash;by whose invitation, when I
+saw him at Navy Bay, I went there&mdash;was at that time
+superintendent. He was a distant connection of my late
+husband, and treated me with great kindness. Strangely
+enough, we met again in a far different part of the world,
+and became more closely connected. But I am anticipating.</p>
+
+<p>The major part of the population of Escribanos, including
+even the women and children, worked at the mine.
+The labour was hard and disagreeable. I often used to
+watch them at their work; and would sometimes wander
+about by myself, thinking it possible that I might tumble
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg&nbsp;67]</a></span>
+across some gold in my rambles. And I once did come
+upon some heavy yellow material, that brought my heart
+into my mouth with that strange thrilling delight which
+all who have hunted for the precious metal understand so
+well. I think it was very wrong; but I kept the secret
+of the place from the alcalde and every one else, and filled
+some bottles with the precious dust, to carry down to Navy
+Bay. I did not go for some time; but when I did, one
+of my first visits was to a gold-buyer; and you can
+imagine my feelings when he coolly laughed, and told me
+it was some material (I forget its name) very like gold, but&mdash;valueless.
+The worst part of it was that, in my annoyance
+and shame, I threw all I had away, and among it some
+which I had reason to believe subsequently was genuine.</p>
+
+<p>The landing at Escribanos was very difficult, and when
+the surf ran high, impossible; and I was once witness to a harrowing
+scene there. A little boat, manned by three sailors,
+grounded on a rock not far from shore, at a terrible season,
+when to reach it from the land was, after many attempts,
+found impossible. The hapless crew lingered on for two
+days, suffering cruelly from hunger and thirst, their cries
+ringing in our ears above the storm&rsquo;s pitiless fury. On the
+third day, two of them took to the sea, and were drowned;
+the third was not strong enough to leave the boat, and died
+in it.</p>
+
+<p>I did not stay long at Escribanos, on my first visit,
+as the alcalde&rsquo;s guest; but, having made arrangements
+for a longer sojourn, I went back to Navy Bay, where
+I laid in a good stock of the stores I should have most
+use for, and returned to Escribanos in safety. I remained
+there some months, pleased with the novelty of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg&nbsp;68]</a></span>
+the life, and busy with schemes for seeking for&mdash;or, as the
+gold-diggers call it, prospecting for&mdash;other mines.</p>
+
+<p>The foreigners were just as troublesome in this little
+out-of-the-way place as they were, and are, in every other
+part of Central America; and quarrels were as frequent in
+our little community as at Cruces or Navy Bay. Indeed,
+Alexander had hard work to maintain peace in his small
+kingdom; and although ably seconded by Mr. Day, more
+than once American disregard of his sway was almost too
+strong for him. Very often the few foreigners would
+quarrel among themselves; and once when they came to
+blows, and an Irishman was stabbed by an American named
+Campfield, the alcalde roused himself to punish the culprit.
+The native population were glad enough to have an American
+in their power; and when I heard Alexander give his
+men instructions to shoot the culprit if he resisted, I
+started off to his hut, and reached it in time to prevent
+bloodshed. He was taken and kept in confinement; and
+soft-hearted Juliana and I had enough to do to prevent his
+being made a stern example of. But we got him off for a
+fine of five hundred dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Again the little community of Escribanos was very near
+getting up a revolution against its constituted government&mdash;a
+very common amusement in Central America. Twelve
+sailors, deserters from an American ship, found their way
+there, and before long plotted to dethrone Alexander, and
+take possession of the mine. Mr. Day gained information
+of their plan. The whole population of Escribanos were
+roused and warned; and arming a score of the boldest
+natives, he surrounded the house in which they were, and
+captured the conspirators, who were too much taken by
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg&nbsp;69]</a></span>
+surprise to offer resistance, and sent them down to Navy
+Bay, there to be handed over to the Government whose
+service they had left.</p>
+
+<p>Of course, my medical skill did not rust for want of
+practice at Escribanos. The place was not healthy, and
+strangers to the climate suffered severely. A surgeon himself,
+sent there by the West Granada Gold-mining Company,
+was glad to throw <em>his</em> physic to the dogs, and be cured in
+my way by mine; while I was fortunately able to nurse
+Mr. Day through a sharp attack of illness.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of the difficulty of communication with
+Navy Bay, our fare was of the simplest at Escribanos. It
+consisted mainly of salt meat, rice, and roasted Indian corn.
+The native fare was not tempting, and some of their delicacies
+were absolutely disgusting. With what pleasure, for
+instance, could one foreign to their tastes and habits dine
+off a roasted monkey, whose grilled head bore a strong resemblance
+to a negro baby&rsquo;s? And yet the Indians used
+to bring them to us for sale, strung on a stick. They were
+worse still stewed in soup, when it was positively frightful
+to dip your ladle in unsuspectingly, and bring up what
+closely resembled a brown baby&rsquo;s limb. I got on better
+with the parrots, and could agree with the &ldquo;senorita, buono
+buono&rdquo; with which the natives recommended them; and
+yet their flesh, what little there was of it, was very coarse
+and hard. Nor did I always refuse to concede praise to a
+squirrel, if well cooked. But although the flesh of the
+iguana&mdash;another favourite dish&mdash;was white and tender as
+any chicken, I never could stomach it. These iguanas
+are immense green lizards, or rather moderate-sized
+crocodiles, sometimes three feet in length, but weighing
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg&nbsp;70]</a></span>
+generally about seven or eight pounds. The Indians used
+to bring them down in boats, alive, on their backs, with
+their legs tied behind them; so that they had the most
+comical look of distress it is possible to imagine. The
+Spanish Indians have a proverb referring to an iguana so
+bound, the purport of which has slipped from my memory,
+but which shows the habit to be an old one. Their eggs
+are highly prized, and their captors have a cruel habit of extracting
+these delicacies from them while alive, and roughly
+sewing up the wound, which I never could muster sufficient
+courage to witness.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers near Escribanos were well stocked with
+crocodiles, the sea had its fair share of sharks, while on
+land you too often met with snakes and other venomous
+reptiles. The sting of some of them was very dangerous.
+One man, who was bitten when I was there, swelled to an
+enormous size, and bled even at the roots of his hair. The
+remedy of the natives appeared to be copious bleeding.</p>
+
+<p>Before I left Escribanos I made a journey, in company
+with a gentleman named Little, my maid, and the alcalde&rsquo;s
+daughter, into the interior of the country, for a short distance,
+following the course of the Palmilla river. This
+was for the purpose of prospecting a mine on that river,
+said to be obtainable at an easy price. Its course was a
+very winding one; and we often had to leave the canoe
+and walk through the shallow waters, that every now and
+then interfered with our progress. As we progressed,
+Little carefully sounded the channel of the river, with the
+view of ascertaining to what extent it was navigable.</p>
+
+<p>The tropical scenery was very grand; but I am afraid
+I only marked what was most curious in it&mdash;at least, that
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg&nbsp;71]</a></span>
+is foremost in my memory now. I know I wondered much
+what motive Nature could have had in twisting the roots
+and branches of the trees into such strange fantastic contortions.
+I watched with unfailing interest the birds and
+animals we disturbed in our progress, from the huge peccary
+or wild boar, that went tearing through the brushwood,
+to the tiniest bright-hued bird that dashed like a
+flash of many-coloured fire before our eyes. And very
+much surprised was I when the Indians stopped before a
+large tree, and on their making an incision in the bark with
+a matcheto (hatchet), there exuded a thick creamy liquid,
+which they wished me to taste, saying that this was the
+famous milk-tree. I needed some persuasion at first; but
+when I had tasted some upon a biscuit, I was so charmed
+with its flavour that I should soon have taken more than
+was good for me had not Mr. Little interfered with some
+judicious advice. We reached the mine, and brought back
+specimens of the quartz, some of which I have now.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this I left Escribanos, and stopping but a
+short time at Navy Bay, came on direct to England. I had
+claims on a Mining Company which are still unsatisfied;
+I had to look after my share in the Palmilla Mine speculation;
+and, above all, I had long been troubled with a
+secret desire to embark in a very novel speculation, about
+which I have as yet said nothing to the reader. But
+before I finally leave the republic of New Granada, I may
+be allowed to write a few words on the present aspect of
+affairs on the Isthmus of Panama.</p>
+
+<p>Recent news from America bring the intelligence that
+the Government of the United States has at length succeeded
+in finding a reasonable excuse for exercising a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg&nbsp;72]</a></span>
+protectorate over, or in other words annexing, the Isthmus of
+Panama. To any one at all acquainted with American
+policy in Central America, this intelligence can give no
+surprise; our only wonder being that some such excuse
+was not made years ago. At this crisis, then, a few remarks
+from the humblest observer of life in the republic
+of New Granada must possess some interest for the curious,
+if not value.</p>
+
+<p>I found something to admire in the people of New
+Granada, but not much; and I found very much more to
+condemn most unequivocally. Whatever was of any worth
+in their institutions, such as their comparative freedom, religious
+toleration, etc., was owing mainly to the negroes who
+had sought the protection of the republic. I found the
+Spanish Indians treacherous, passionate, and indolent, with
+no higher aim or object but simply to enjoy the present after
+their own torpid, useless fashion. Like most fallen nations,
+they are very conservative in their habits and principles;
+while the blacks are enterprising, and in their opinions
+incline not unnaturally to democracy. But for their old
+antipathy, there is no doubt that the negroes would
+lean towards America; but they gladly encourage the
+prejudice of the New Granadans, and foster it in every
+way. Hence the ceaseless quarrels which have disturbed
+Chagres and Panama, until it has become necessary for an
+American force to garrison those towns. For humanity
+and civilization&rsquo;s sake, there can be little doubt as to the
+expediency of this step; but I should not be at all surprised
+to hear that the republic was preparing to make
+some show of resistance against its powerful brother; for,
+as the reader will have perceived, the New Granadans&rsquo;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg&nbsp;73]</a></span>
+experiences of American manners have not been favourable;
+and they do not know, as we do, how little real sympathy
+the Government of the United States has with the extreme
+class of its citizens who have made themselves so conspicuous
+in the great high-road to California.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>I LONG TO JOIN THE BRITISH ARMY BEFORE SEBASTOPOL&mdash;MY WANDERINGS
+ABOUT LONDON FOR THAT PURPOSE&mdash;HOW I FAIL&mdash;ESTABLISHMENT
+OF THE FIRM OF &ldquo;DAY AND MARTIN&rdquo;&mdash;I EMBARK FOR
+TURKEY.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Before I left Jamaica for Navy Bay, as narrated in the
+last chapter, war had been declared against Russia, and
+we were all anxiously expecting news of a descent upon
+the Crimea. Now, no sooner had I heard of war somewhere,
+than I longed to witness it; and when I was told
+that many of the regiments I had known so well in Jamaica
+had left England for the scene of action, the desire
+to join them became stronger than ever. I used to stand
+for hours in silent thought before an old map of the world,
+in a little corner of which some one had chalked a red
+cross, to enable me to distinguish where the Crimea was;
+and as I traced the route thither, all difficulties would
+vanish. But when I came to talk over the project with
+my friends, the best scheme I could devise seemed so wild
+and improbable, that I was fain to resign my hopes for a
+time, and so started for Navy Bay.</p>
+
+<p>But all the way to England, from Navy Bay, I was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg&nbsp;74]</a></span>
+turning my old wish over and over in my mind; and
+when I found myself in London, in the autumn of 1854,
+just after the battle of Alma had been fought, and my old
+friends were fairly before the walls of Sebastopol, how to
+join them there took up far more of my thoughts than that
+visionary gold-mining speculation on the river Palmilla,
+which seemed so feasible to us in New Granada, but was
+considered so wild and unprofitable a speculation in London.
+And, as time wore on, the inclination to join my
+old friends of the 97th, 48th, and other regiments, battling
+with worse foes than yellow fever or cholera, took such
+exclusive possession of my mind, that I threw over the
+gold speculation altogether, and devoted all my energies
+to my new scheme.</p>
+
+<p>Heaven knows it was visionary enough! I had no
+friends who could help me in such a project&mdash;nay, who
+would understand why I desired to go, and what I desired to
+do when I got there. My funds, although they might, carefully
+husbanded, carry me over the three thousand miles,
+and land me at Balaclava, would not support me there long;
+while to persuade the public that an unknown Creole woman
+would be useful to their army before Sebastopol was too improbable
+an achievement to be thought of for an instant.
+Circumstances, however, assisted me.</p>
+
+<p>As the winter wore on, came hints from various
+quarters of mismanagement, want, and suffering in the
+Crimea; and after the battles of Balaclava and Inkermann,
+and the fearful storm of the 14th of November, the
+worst anticipations were realized. Then we knew that
+the hospitals were full to suffocation, that scarcity and
+exposure were the fate of all in the camp, and that the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg&nbsp;75]</a></span>
+brave fellows for whom any of us at home would have
+split our last shilling, and shared our last meal, were
+dying thousands of miles away from the active sympathy
+of their fellow-countrymen. Fast and thick upon the
+news of Inkermann, fought by a handful of fasting and
+enfeebled men against eight times their number of picked
+Russians, brought fresh and animated to the contest, and
+while all England was reeling beneath the shock of that
+fearful victory, came the sad news that hundreds were
+dying whom the Russian shot and sword had spared, and
+that the hospitals of Scutari were utterly unable to shelter,
+or their inadequate staff to attend to, the ship-loads of sick
+and wounded which were sent to them across the stormy
+Black Sea.</p>
+
+<p>But directly England knew the worst, she set about
+repairing her past neglect. In every household busy
+fingers were working for the poor soldier&mdash;money flowed
+in golden streams wherever need was&mdash;and Christian
+ladies, mindful of the sublime example, &ldquo;I was sick, and
+ye visited me,&rdquo; hastened to volunteer their services by
+those sick-beds which only women know how to soothe
+and bless.</p>
+
+<p>Need I be ashamed to confess that I shared in the
+general enthusiasm, and longed more than ever to carry my
+busy (and the reader will not hesitate to add experienced)
+fingers where the sword or bullet had been busiest, and
+pestilence most rife. I had seen much of sorrow and
+death elsewhere, but they had never daunted me; and if I
+could feel happy binding up the wounds of quarrelsome
+Americans and treacherous Spaniards, what delight should
+I not experience if I could be useful to my own &ldquo;sons,&rdquo;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg&nbsp;76]</a></span>
+suffering for a cause it was so glorious to fight and bleed
+for! I never stayed to discuss probabilities, or enter into
+conjectures as to my chances of reaching the scene of
+action. I made up my mind that if the army wanted
+nurses, they would be glad of me, and with all the ardour
+of my nature, which ever carried me where inclination
+prompted, I decided that I <em>would</em> go to the Crimea; and
+go I did, as all the world knows.</p>
+
+<p>Of course, had it not been for my old strong-mindedness
+(which has nothing to do with obstinacy, and is in no
+way related to it&mdash;the best term I can think of to express
+it being &ldquo;judicious decisiveness&rdquo;), I should have given
+up the scheme a score of times in as many days; so regularly
+did each successive day give birth to a fresh set of
+rebuffs and disappointments. I shall make no excuse to
+my readers for giving them a pretty full history of my
+struggles to become a Crimean <em>heroine</em>!</p>
+
+<p>My first idea (and knowing that I was well fitted for
+the work, and would be the right woman in the right place,
+the reader can fancy my audacity) was to apply to the
+War Office for the post of hospital nurse. Among the
+diseases which I understood were most prevalent in the
+Crimea were cholera, diarrh&oelig;a, and dysentery, all of them
+more or less known in tropical climates; and with which,
+as the reader will remember, my Panama experience had
+made me tolerably familiar. Now, no one will accuse me
+of presumption, if I say that I thought (and so it afterwards
+proved) that my knowledge of these human ills
+would not only render my services as a nurse more valuable,
+but would enable me to be of use to the overworked doctors.
+That others thought so too, I took with me ample
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg&nbsp;77]</a></span>
+testimony. I cannot resist the temptation of giving my
+readers one of the testimonials I had, it seems so eminently
+practical and to the point:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;I became acquainted with Mrs. Seacole through the
+instrumentality of T. B. Cowan, Esq., H. B. M. Consul at
+Colon, on the Isthmus of Panama, and have had many
+opportunities of witnessing her professional zeal and ability
+in the treatment of aggravated forms of tropical diseases.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I am myself personally much indebted for her indefatigable
+kindness and skill at a time when I am apt to
+believe the advice of a practitioner qualified in the North
+would have little availed.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Her peculiar fitness, in a constitutional point of view,
+for the duties of a medical attendant, needs no comment.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">(Signed)<span class="space">&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;A. G. M.,<br />
+&ldquo;Late Medical Officer, West Granada Gold-mining Company.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>So I made long and unwearied application at the War
+Office, in blissful ignorance of the labour and time I was
+throwing away. I have reason to believe that I considerably
+interfered with the repose of sundry messengers, and
+disturbed, to an alarming degree, the official gravity of some
+nice gentlemanly young fellows, who were working out
+their salaries in an easy, off-hand way. But my ridiculous
+endeavours to gain an interview with the Secretary-at-War
+of course failed, and glad at last to oblige a distracted messenger,
+I transferred my attentions to the Quartermaster-General&rsquo;s
+department. Here I saw another gentleman, who
+listened to me with a great deal of polite enjoyment,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg&nbsp;78]</a></span>
+and&mdash;his amusement ended&mdash;hinted, had I not better apply to
+the Medical Department; and accordingly I attached myself
+to their quarters with the same unwearying ardour. But,
+of course, I grew tired at last, and then I changed my
+plans.</p>
+
+<p>Now, I am not for a single instant going to blame the
+authorities who would not listen to the offer of a motherly
+yellow woman to go to the Crimea and nurse her &ldquo;sons&rdquo;
+there, suffering from cholera, diarrh&oelig;a, and a host of lesser
+ills. In my country, where people know our use, it would
+have been different; but here it was natural enough&mdash;although
+I had references, and other voices spoke for me&mdash;that
+they should laugh, good-naturedly enough, at my
+offer. War, I know, is a serious game, but sometimes
+very humble actors are of great use in it, and if the reader,
+when he comes in time to peruse the evidence of those
+who had to do with the Sebastopol drama, of my share in
+it, will turn back to this chapter, he will confess perhaps
+that, after all, the impulse which led me to the War Department
+was not unnatural.</p>
+
+<p>My new scheme was, I candidly confess, worse devised
+than the one which had failed. Miss Nightingale had left
+England for the Crimea, but other nurses were still to
+follow, and my new plan was simply to offer myself to
+Mrs. H&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;as a recruit. Feeling that I was one of the
+very women they most wanted, experienced and fond of
+the work, I jumped at once to the conclusion that they
+would gladly enrol me in their number. To go to Cox&rsquo;s,
+the army agents, who were most obliging to me, and obtain
+the Secretary-at-War&rsquo;s private address, did not take long;
+and that done, I laid the same pertinacious siege to his
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg&nbsp;79]</a></span>
+great house in&nbsp;&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;Square, as I had previously done to his
+place of business.</p>
+
+<p>Many a long hour did I wait in his great hall, while
+scores passed in and out; many of them looking curiously
+at me. The flunkeys, noble creatures! marvelled exceedingly
+at the yellow woman whom no excuses could get rid
+of, nor impertinence dismay, and showed me very clearly that
+they resented my persisting in remaining there in mute appeal
+from their sovereign will. At last I gave that up, after a
+message from Mrs. H. that the full complement of nurses had
+been secured, and that my offer could not be entertained.
+Once again I tried, and had an interview this time with one
+of Miss Nightingale&rsquo;s companions. She gave me the same
+reply, and I read in her face the fact, that had there been
+a vacancy, I should not have been chosen to fill it.</p>
+
+<p>As a last resort, I applied to the managers of the Crimean
+Fund to know whether they would give me a passage
+to the camp&mdash;once there I would trust to something turning
+up. But this failed also, and one cold evening I stood in
+the twilight, which was fast deepening into wintry night,
+and looked back upon the ruins of my last castle in the air.
+The disappointment seemed a cruel one. I was so conscious
+of the unselfishness of the motives which induced me to
+leave England&mdash;so certain of the service I could render
+among the sick soldiery, and yet I found it so difficult
+to convince others of these facts. Doubts and suspicions
+arose in my heart for the first and last time, thank Heaven.
+Was it possible that American prejudices against colour
+had some root here? Did these ladies shrink from accepting
+my aid because my blood flowed beneath a somewhat
+duskier skin than theirs? Tears streamed down my foolish
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg&nbsp;80]</a></span>
+cheeks, as I stood in the fast thinning streets; tears of grief
+that any should doubt my motives&mdash;that Heaven should
+deny me the opportunity that I sought. Then I stood
+still, and looking upward through and through the dark
+clouds that shadowed London, prayed aloud for help. I
+dare say that I was a strange sight to the few passers-by,
+who hastened homeward through the gloom and mist of that
+wintry night. I dare say those who read these pages will
+wonder at me as much as they who saw me did; but you
+must all remember that I am one of an impulsive people,
+and find it hard to put that restraint upon my feelings
+which to you is so easy and natural.</p>
+
+<p>The morrow, however, brought fresh hope. A good
+night&rsquo;s rest had served to strengthen my determination.
+Let what might happen, to the Crimea I would go. If in
+no other way, then would I upon my own responsibility
+and at my own cost. There were those there who had known
+me in Jamaica, who had been under my care; doctors who
+would vouch for my skill and willingness to aid them, and
+a general who had more than once helped me, and
+would do so still. Why not trust to their welcome and
+kindness, and start at once? If the authorities had allowed
+me, I would willingly have given them my services as a
+nurse; but as they declined them, should I not open
+an hotel for invalids in the Crimea in my own way? I
+had no more idea of what the Crimea was than the home
+authorities themselves perhaps, but having once made up
+my mind, it was not long before cards were printed and
+speeding across the Mediterranean to my friends before
+Sebastopol. Here is one of them:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg&nbsp;81]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">&ldquo;BRITISH HOTEL.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Mrs. Mary Seacole</span><br />
+(<i>Late of Kingston, Jamaica</i>),</p>
+
+<p class="center">Respectfully announces to her former kind friends, and to the<br />
+Officers of the Army and Navy generally,</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">That she has taken her passage in the screw-steamer &ldquo;Hollander,&rdquo;
+to start from London on the 25th of January, intending on her arrival
+at Balaclava to establish a mess table and comfortable quarters for
+sick and convalescent officers.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>This bold programme would reach the Crimea in the
+end of January, at a time when any officer would have
+considered a stall in an English stable luxurious quarters
+compared to those he possessed, and had nearly forgotten
+the comforts of a mess-table. It must have read to them
+rather like a mockery, and yet, as the reader will see, I
+succeeded in redeeming my pledge.</p>
+
+<p>While this new scheme was maturing, I again met Mr.
+Day in England. He was bound to Balaclava upon some
+shipping business, and we came to the understanding that
+(if it were found desirable) we should together open a
+store as well as an hotel in the neighbourhood of the camp.
+So was originated the well-known firm of Seacole and
+Day (I am sorry to say, the camp wits dubbed it Day and
+Martin), which, for so many months, did business upon the
+now deserted high-road from the then busy harbour of Balaclava
+to the front of the British army before Sebastopol.</p>
+
+<p>These new arrangements were not allowed to interfere
+in any way with the main object of my journey. A great
+portion of my limited capital was, with the kind aid of a
+medical friend, invested in medicines which I had reason to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg&nbsp;82]</a></span>
+believe would be useful; with the remainder I purchased
+those home comforts which I thought would be most difficult
+to obtain away from England.</p>
+
+<p>I had scarcely set my foot on board the &ldquo;Hollander,&rdquo; before
+I met a friend. The supercargo was the brother of the
+Mr. S&mdash;&mdash;, whose death in Jamaica the reader will not have
+forgotten, and he gave me a hearty welcome. I thought
+the meeting augured well, and when I told him my plans
+he gave me the most cheering encouragement. I was glad,
+indeed, of any support, for, beyond all doubt, my project
+was a hazardous one.</p>
+
+<p>So cheered at the outset, I watched without a pang the
+shores of England sink behind the smooth sea, and turned
+my gaze hopefully to the as yet landless horizon, beyond
+which lay that little peninsula to which the eyes and hearts
+of all England were so earnestly directed.</p>
+
+<p>So, cheerily! the good ship ploughed its way eastward
+ho! for Turkey.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>VOYAGE TO CONSTANTINOPLE&mdash;MALTA&mdash;GIBRALTAR&mdash;CONSTANTINOPLE,
+AND WHAT I THOUGHT OF IT&mdash;VISIT TO SCUTARI HOSPITAL&mdash;MISS
+NIGHTINGALE.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I am not going to risk the danger of wearying the reader
+with a long account of the voyage to Constantinople,
+already worn threadbare by book-making tourists. It was
+a very interesting one, and, as I am a good sailor, I had not
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg&nbsp;83]</a></span>
+even the temporary horrors of sea-sickness to mar it. The
+weather, although cold, was fine, and the sea good-humouredly
+calm, and I enjoyed the voyage amazingly. And as
+day by day we drew nearer to the scene of action, my
+doubts of success grew less and less, until I had a conviction
+of the rightness of the step I had taken, which would
+have carried me buoyantly through any difficulties.</p>
+
+<p>On the way, of course, I was called up from my berth
+at an unreasonable hour to gaze upon the Cape of St. Vincent,
+and expected to feel duly impressed when the long
+bay where Trafalgar&rsquo;s fight was won came in view, with
+the white convent walls on the cliffs above bathed in the
+early sunlight. I never failed to take an almost childish interest
+in the signals which passed between the &ldquo;Hollander&rdquo;
+and the fleet of vessels whose sails whitened the track to and
+from the Crimea, trying to puzzle out the language these
+children of the ocean spoke in their hurried course, and wondering
+whether any, or what sufficiently important thing
+<em>could</em> happen which would warrant their stopping on their
+busy way.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a short time at Gibraltar, and you may imagine
+that I was soon on shore making the best use of the
+few hours&rsquo; reprieve granted to the &ldquo;Hollander&rsquo;s&rdquo; weary
+engines. I had an idea that I should do better alone, so I
+declined all offers of companionship, and selecting a brisk
+young fellow from the mob of cicerones who offered their
+services, saw more of the art of fortification in an hour or
+so than I could understand in as many years. The pleasure
+was rather fatiguing, and I was not sorry to return
+to the market-place, where I stood curiously watching its
+strange and motley population. While so engaged, I heard
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg&nbsp;84]</a></span>
+for the first time an exclamation which became familiar
+enough to me afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Why, bless my soul, old fellow, if this is not our
+good old Mother Seacole!&rdquo; I turned round, and saw two
+officers, whose features, set in a broad frame of Crimean
+beard, I had some difficulty in recognising. But I soon
+remembered that they were two of the 48th, who had been
+often in my house at Kingston. Glad were the kind-hearted
+fellows, and not a little surprised withal, to meet their
+old hostess in the market-place of Gibraltar, bound for the
+scene of action which they had left invalided; and it was
+not long before we were talking old times over some
+wine&mdash;Spanish, I suppose&mdash;but it was very nasty.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;And you are going to the front, old lady&mdash;you, of all
+people in the world?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Why not, my sons?&mdash;won&rsquo;t they be glad to have me
+there?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;By Jove! yes, mother,&rdquo; answered one, an Irishman.
+&ldquo;It isn&rsquo;t many women&mdash;God bless them!&mdash;we&rsquo;ve
+had to spoil us out there. But it&rsquo;s not the place even
+for you, who know what hardship is. You&rsquo;ll never get a
+roof to cover you at Balaclava, nor on the road either.&rdquo;
+So they rattled on, telling me of the difficulties that were
+in store for me. But they could not shake my resolution.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Do you think I shall be of any use to you when I
+get there?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Surely.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Then I&rsquo;ll go, were the place a hundred times worse
+than you describe it. Can&rsquo;t I rig up a hut with the packing-cases,
+and sleep, if need be, on straw, like Margery
+Daw?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg&nbsp;85]</a></span>
+So they laughed, and drank success to me, and to our
+next meeting; for, although they were going home invalided,
+the brave fellows&rsquo; hearts were with their companions,
+for all the hardships they had passed through.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped at Malta also, where, of course, I landed,
+and stared about me, and submitted to be robbed by the
+lazy Maltese with all a traveller&rsquo;s resignation. Here, also, I
+met friends&mdash;some medical officers who had known me in
+Kingston; and one of them, Dr. F&mdash;&mdash;, lately arrived
+from Scutari, gave me, when he heard my plans, a letter
+of introduction to Miss Nightingale, then hard at work,
+evoking order out of confusion, and bravely resisting the
+despotism of death, at the hospital of Scutari.</p>
+
+<p>So on, past beautiful islands and shores, until we are
+steaming against a swift current, and an adverse wind,
+between two tower-crested promontories of rock, which
+they tell me stand in Europe and in Asia, and are connected
+with some pretty tale of love in days long gone by.
+Ah! travel where a woman may, in the New World, or the
+Old, she meets this old, old tale everywhere. It is the
+one bond of sympathy which I have found existing in
+three quarters of the world alike. So on, until the cable
+rattles over the windlass, as the good ship&rsquo;s anchor plunges
+down fathoms deep into the blue waters of the Bosphorus&mdash;her
+voyage ended.</p>
+
+<p>I do not think that Constantinople impressed me so
+much as I had expected; and I thought its streets would
+match those of Navy Bay not unfairly. The caicques,
+also, of which I had ample experience&mdash;for I spent six
+days here, wandering about Pera and Stamboul in the daytime,
+and returning to the &ldquo;Hollander&rdquo; at nightfall&mdash;might
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg&nbsp;86]</a></span>
+be made more safe and commodious for stout ladies, even
+if the process interfered a little with their ornament.
+Time and trouble combined have left me with a well-filled-out,
+portly form&mdash;the envy of many an angular
+Yankee female&mdash;and, more than once, it was in no slight
+danger of becoming too intimately acquainted with the
+temperature of the Bosphorus. But I will do the Turkish
+boatmen the justice to say that they were as politely careful
+of my safety as their astonishment and regard for the
+well-being of their caicques (which they appear to love
+as an Arab does his horse, or an Esquimaux his dogs, and
+for the same reason perhaps) would admit. Somewhat
+surprised, also, seemed the cunning-eyed Greeks, who
+throng the streets of Pera, at the unprotected Creole
+woman, who took Constantinople so coolly (it would require
+something more to surprise her); while the grave
+English raised their eyebrows wonderingly, and the more
+vivacious French shrugged their pliant shoulders into the
+strangest contortions. I accepted it all as a compliment to
+a stout female tourist, neatly dressed in a red or yellow
+dress, a plain shawl of some other colour, and a simple
+straw wide-awake, with bright red streamers. I flatter
+myself that I woke up sundry sleepy-eyed Turks, who
+seemed to think that the great object of life was to avoid
+showing surprise at anything; while the Turkish women
+gathered around me, and jabbered about me, in the most
+flattering manner.</p>
+
+<p>How I ever succeeded in getting Mr. Day&rsquo;s letters from
+the Post-office, Constantinople, puzzles me now; but I
+did&mdash;and I shall ever regard my success as one of the
+great triumphs of my life. Their contents were not very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg&nbsp;87]</a></span>
+cheering. He gave a very dreary account of Balaclava
+and of camp life, and almost dissuaded me from continuing
+my journey; but his last letter ended by giving me instructions
+as to the purchases I had best make, if I still
+determined upon making the adventure; so I forgot all
+the rest, and busied myself in laying in the stores he
+recommended.</p>
+
+<p>But I found time, before I left the &ldquo;Hollander,&rdquo; to
+charter a crazy caicque, to carry me to Scutari, intending
+to present Dr. F&mdash;&mdash;&rsquo;s letter to Miss Nightingale.</p>
+
+<p>It was afternoon when the boatmen set me down in
+safety at the landing-place of Scutari, and I walked up the
+slight ascent, to the great dull-looking hospital. Thinking
+of the many noble fellows who had been borne, or had
+painfully crept along this path, only to die within that
+dreary building, I felt rather dull; and directly I entered
+the hospital, and came upon the long wards of sufferers,
+lying there so quiet and still, a rush of tears came to my
+eyes, and blotted out the sight for a few minutes. But I
+soon felt at home, and looked about me with great interest.
+The men were, many of them, very quiet. Some of the
+convalescent formed themselves into little groups around
+one who read a newspaper; others had books in their
+hands, or by their side, where they had fallen when slumber
+overtook the readers, while hospital orderlies moved to
+and fro, and now and then the female nurses, in their quiet
+uniform, passed noiselessly on some mission of kindness.</p>
+
+<p>I was fortunate enough to find an old acquaintance, who
+accompanied me through the wards, and rendered it unnecessary
+for me to trouble the busy nurses. This was an
+old 97th man&mdash;a Sergeant T&mdash;&mdash;, whom I had known in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg&nbsp;88]</a></span>
+Kingston, and who was slowly recovering from an attack
+of dysentery, and making himself of use here until the
+doctors should let him go back and have another &ldquo;shy at
+the Rooshians.&rdquo; He is very glad to meet me, and tells me
+his history very socially, and takes me to the bedsides of
+some comrades, who had also known me at Up-Park Camp.
+My poor fellows! how their eyes glisten when they light
+upon an old friend&rsquo;s face in these Turkish barracks&mdash;put
+to so sad a use, three thousand miles from home. Here
+is one of them&mdash;&ldquo;hurt in the trenches,&rdquo; says the Sergeant,
+with shaven bandaged head, and bright, restless, Irish eyes,
+who hallooes out, &ldquo;Mother Seacole! Mother Seacole!&rdquo; in
+such an excited tone of voice; and when he has shaken
+hands a score of times, falls back upon his pillow very wearily.
+But I sit by his side, and try to cheer him with
+talk about the future, when he shall grow well, and see
+home, and hear them all thank him for what he has been
+helping to do, so that he grows all right in a few minutes;
+but, hearing that I am on the way to the front, gets excited
+again; for, you see, illness and weakness make these
+strong men as children, not least in the patient unmurmuring
+resignation with which they suffer. I think my
+Irish friend had an indistinct idea of a &ldquo;muddle&rdquo; somewhere,
+which had kept him for weeks on salt meat and biscuit,
+until it gave him the &ldquo;scurvy,&rdquo; for he is very anxious
+that I should take over plenty of vegetables, of every sort.
+&ldquo;And, oh! mother!&rdquo;&mdash;and it is strange to hear his almost
+plaintive tone as he urges this&mdash;&ldquo;take them plenty of
+eggs, mother; we never saw eggs over there.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>At some slight risk of giving offence, I cannot resist
+the temptation of lending a helping hand here and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg&nbsp;89]</a></span>
+there&mdash;replacing a slipped bandage, or easing a stiff one. But I do
+not think any one was offended; and one doctor, who had
+with some surprise and, at first, alarm on his face, watched
+me replace a bandage, which was giving pain, said, very
+kindly, when I had finished, &ldquo;Thank you, ma&rsquo;am.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>One thought never left my mind as I walked through
+the fearful miles of suffering in that great hospital. If it
+is so here, what must it not be at the scene of war&mdash;on the
+spot where the poor fellows are stricken down by pestilence
+or Russian bullets, and days and nights of agony must be
+passed before a woman&rsquo;s hand can dress their wounds.
+And I felt happy in the conviction that <em>I must</em> be useful
+three or four days nearer to their pressing wants than this.</p>
+
+<p>It was growing late before I felt tired, or thought of
+leaving Scutari, and Dr. S&mdash;&mdash;, another Jamaica friend,
+who had kindly borne me company for the last half-hour
+agreed with me that the caicque was not the safest conveyance
+by night on the Bosphorus, and recommended me to
+present my letter to Miss Nightingale, and perhaps a
+lodging for the night could be found for me. So, still
+under the Sergeant&rsquo;s patient guidance, we thread our way
+through passages and corridors, all used as sick-wards,
+until we reach the corner tower of the building, in which
+are the nurses&rsquo; quarters.</p>
+
+<p>I think Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, who saw me, felt more surprise
+than she could politely show (I never found women
+so quick to understand me as the men) when I handed her
+Dr. F&mdash;&mdash;&rsquo;s kind letter respecting me, and apologized for
+troubling Miss Nightingale. There is that in the Doctor&rsquo;s
+letter (he had been much at Scutari) which prevents my
+request being refused, and I am asked to wait until Miss
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg&nbsp;90]</a></span>
+Nightingale, whose every moment is valuable, can see me.
+Meanwhile Mrs. B. questions me very kindly, but with
+the same look of curiosity and surprise.</p>
+
+<p>What object has Mrs. Seacole in coming out? This is
+the purport of her questions. And I say, frankly, to be of
+use somewhere; for other considerations I had not, until
+necessity forced them upon me. Willingly, had they accepted
+me, I would have worked for the wounded, in
+return for bread and water. I fancy Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;thought
+that I sought for employment at Scutari, for she said, very
+kindly&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Miss Nightingale has the entire management of our
+hospital staff, but I do not think that any vacancy&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Excuse me, ma&rsquo;am,&rdquo; I interrupt her with, &ldquo;but I
+am bound for the front in a few days;&rdquo; and my questioner
+leaves me, more surprised than ever. The room I waited
+in was used as a kitchen. Upon the stoves were cans of
+soup, broth, and arrow-root, while nurses passed in and out
+with noiseless tread and subdued manner. I thought
+many of them had that strange expression of the eyes
+which those who have gazed long on scenes of woe or
+horror seldom lose.</p>
+
+<p>In half an hour&rsquo;s time I am admitted to Miss Nightingale&rsquo;s
+presence. A slight figure, in the nurses&rsquo; dress; with
+a pale, gentle, and withal firm face, resting lightly in the
+palm of one white hand, while the other supports the
+elbow&mdash;a position which gives to her countenance a keen
+inquiring expression, which is rather marked. Standing
+thus in repose, and yet keenly observant&mdash;the greatest
+sign of impatience at any time<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> a slight, perhaps unwitting
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg&nbsp;91]</a></span>
+motion of the firmly planted right foot&mdash;was Florence
+Nightingale&mdash;that Englishwoman whose name shall never
+die, but sound like music on the lips of British men until
+the hour of doom.</p>
+
+<p>She has read Dr. F&mdash;&mdash;&rsquo;s letter, which lies on the table
+by her side, and asks, in her gentle but eminently practical
+and business-like way, &ldquo;What do you want, Mrs. Seacole&mdash;anything
+that we can do for you? If it lies in my power,
+I shall be very happy.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>So I tell her of my dread of the night journey by
+caicque, and the improbability of my finding the &ldquo;Hollander&rdquo;
+in the dark; and, with some diffidence, threw myself upon
+the hospitality of Scutari, offering to nurse the sick for the
+night. Now unfortunately, for many reasons, room even
+for one in Scutari Hospital was at that time no easy matter
+to find; but at last a bed was discovered to be unoccupied
+at the hospital washerwomen&rsquo;s quarters.</p>
+
+<p>My experience of washerwomen, all the world over, is
+the same&mdash;that they are kind soft-hearted folks. Possibly
+the soap-suds they almost live in find their way into their
+hearts and tempers, and soften them. This Scutari washerwoman
+is no exception to the rule, and welcomes me most
+heartily. With her, also, are some invalid nurses; and
+after they have gone to bed, we spend some hours of the
+night talking over our adventures, and giving one another
+scraps of our respective biographies. I hadn&rsquo;t long retired
+to my couch before I wished most heartily that we had
+continued our chat; for unbidden and most unwelcome
+companions took the washerwoman&rsquo;s place, and persisted
+not only in dividing my bed, but my plump person also.
+Upon my word, I believe the fleas are the only industrious
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg&nbsp;92]</a></span>
+creatures in all Turkey. Some of their relatives would
+seem to have migrated into Russia; for I found them in
+the Crimea equally prosperous and ubiquitous.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, a breakfast is sent to my mangled remains,
+and a kind message from Mrs. B&mdash;&mdash;, having
+reference to how I spent the night. And, after an interview
+with some other medical men, whose acquaintance I had
+made in Jamaica, I shake hands with the soft-hearted
+washerwoman, up to her shoulders in soap-suds already,
+and start for the &ldquo;Hollander.&rdquo;</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Subsequently I saw much of Miss Nightingale, at Balaclava.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>&ldquo;JEW JOHNNY&rdquo;&mdash;I START FOR BALACLAVA&mdash;KINDNESS OF MY OLD
+FRIENDS&mdash;ON BOARD THE &ldquo;MEDORA&rdquo;&mdash;MY LIFE ON SHORE&mdash;THE
+SICK WHARF.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>During my stay in Constantinople, I was accustomed
+to employ, as a guide, a young Greek Jew, whose name it
+is no use my attempting to spell, but whom I called by the
+one common name there&mdash;&ldquo;Johnny.&rdquo; Wishing, however,
+to distinguish my Johnny from the legion of other Johnnies,
+I prefixed the term Jew to his other name, and addressed
+him as Jew Johnny. How he had picked up his knowledge
+I cannot tell, but he could talk a little broken English,
+besides French, which, had I been qualified to criticise
+it, I should have found, perhaps, as broken as his
+English. He attached himself very closely to me, and
+seemed very anxious to share my fortunes; and after he
+had pleaded hard, many times, to be taken to the Crimea,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg&nbsp;93]</a></span>
+I gave in, and formally hired him. He was the best and
+faithfullest servant I had in the Crimea, and, so far from
+regretting having picked up Jew Johnny from the streets
+of Pera, I should have been very badly off without him.</p>
+
+<p>More letters come from Mr. Day, giving even worse
+accounts of the state of things at Balaclava; but it is too
+late for hesitation now. My plans are perfected, my purchases
+made, and passage secured in the &ldquo;Albatross&rdquo;&mdash;a
+transport laden with cattle and commissariat officers for
+Balaclava. I thought I should never have transported my
+things from the &ldquo;Hollander&rdquo; to the &ldquo;Albatross.&rdquo; It
+was a terrible day, and against the strong current and
+hurricane of wind Turkish and Greek arms seemed of little
+avail; but at last, after an hour or more of terrible anxiety
+and fear, the &ldquo;Albatross&rsquo;s&rdquo; side was reached, and I clambered
+on deck, drenched and wretched.</p>
+
+<p>My companions are cheerful, pleasant fellows, and the
+short, although somewhat hazardous, voyage across the
+Black Sea is safely made, and one morning we become excited
+at seeing a dark rock-bound coast, on which they tell
+us is Balaclava. As we steam on we see, away to the
+right, clouds of light smoke, which the knowing travellers
+tell us are not altogether natural, but show that Sebastopol
+is not yet taken, until the &ldquo;Albatross&rdquo; lays-to
+within sight of where the &ldquo;Prince,&rdquo; with her ill-fated
+companions, went down in that fearful November storm,
+four short months ago, while application is made to the
+harbour-master for leave to enter the port of Balaclava.
+It does not appear the simplest favour in the world that we
+are applying for&mdash;licence to escape from the hazards of
+the Black Sea. But at last it comes, and we slowly wind
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg&nbsp;94]</a></span>
+through a narrow channel, and emerge into a small landlocked
+basin, so filled with shipping that their masts bend
+in the breeze like a wintry forest. Whatever might have
+been the case at one time, there is order in Balaclava Harbour
+now, and the &ldquo;Albatross,&rdquo; with the aid of her boats,
+moves along to her appointed moorings.</p>
+
+<p>Such a busy scene as that small harbour presented
+could be rarely met with elsewhere. Crowded with shipping,
+of every size and variety, from the noble English
+steamer to the smallest long-shore craft, while between
+them and the shore passed and repassed innumerable boats;
+men-of-war&rsquo;s boats, trim and stern; merchant-ship&rsquo;s boats,
+laden to the gunwales; Greek and Maltese boats, carrying
+their owners everywhere on their missions of sharp dealing
+and roguery. Coming from the quiet gloomy sea into this
+little nook of life and bustle the transition is very sudden
+and startling, and gives one enough to think about without
+desiring to go on shore this afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, Mr. Day, apprised of my arrival,
+came on board the &ldquo;Albatross,&rdquo; and our plans were laid.
+I must leave the &ldquo;Albatross,&rdquo; of course, and, until we decide
+upon our future, I had better take up my quarters on
+board the &ldquo;Medora,&rdquo; which is hired by the Government, at a
+great cost, as an ammunition ship. The proposal was not a
+very agreeable one, but I have no choice left me. Our
+stores, too, had to be landed at once. Warehouses were
+unheard of in Balaclava, and we had to stack them upon
+the shore and protect them as well as we were able.</p>
+
+<p>My first task, directly I had become settled on board the
+&ldquo;Medora,&rdquo; was to send word to my friends of my arrival
+in the Crimea, and solicit their aid. I gave a Greek idler
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg&nbsp;95]</a></span>
+one pound to carry a letter to the camp of the 97th, while
+I sent another to Captain Peel, who was hard at work
+battering the defences of Sebastopol about the ears of the
+Russians, from the batteries of the Royal Naval Brigade.
+I addressed others to many of the medical men who had
+known me in other lands; nor did I neglect to send word
+to my kind patron, Sir John Campbell, then commanding
+a division: and my old friends answered my letters
+most kindly. As the various officers came down on
+duty or business to Balaclava they did not fail to find me
+out, and welcome me to the Crimea, while Captain Peel
+and Sir J. Campbell sent the kindest messages; and when
+they saw me, promised me every assistance, the General
+adding that he is glad to see me where there is so much to
+do. Among others, poor H. Vicars, whose kind face had
+so often lighted up my old house in Kingston, came to
+take me by the hand in this out-of-the-way corner of the
+world. I never felt so sure of the success of any step as I
+did of this, before I had been a week in Balaclava. But
+I had plenty of difficulties to contend with on every side.</p>
+
+<p>Among the first, one of the ships, in which were many of
+our stores, the &ldquo;Nonpareil,&rdquo; was ordered out of the harbour
+before we could land them all, and there was more than a
+probability that she would carry back to Constantinople
+many of the things we had most pressing occasion for.
+It became necessary, therefore, that some one should see
+Admiral Boxer, and try to interest that mild-spoken and
+affable officer in our favour. When I mentioned it to Mr.
+Day, he did not seem inclined to undertake the mission,
+and nothing was left but for me to face the terrible Port-Admiral.
+Fortunately, Captain H&mdash;&mdash;, of the &ldquo;Diamond,&rdquo;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg&nbsp;96]</a></span>
+was inclined to be my friend, and, not a little amused
+with his mission, carried me right off to the Admiral. I
+confess that I was as nearly frightened out of my wits as
+I ever have been, for the Admiral&rsquo;s kind heart beat under a
+decidedly rough husk; and when Captain H&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;told him
+that I wanted his permission for the &ldquo;Nonpareil&rdquo; to remain
+in the harbour for a few days, as there were stores on
+board, he let fly enough hard words to frighten any
+woman. But when I spoke up, and told him that I had
+known his son in the West Indies, he relented, and
+granted my petition. But it was not without more hard
+words, and much grumbling that a parcel of women should
+be coming out to a place where they were not wanted.</p>
+
+<p>Now, the Admiral did not repeat this remark a few
+days afterwards, when he saw me attending the sick and
+wounded upon the sick wharf.</p>
+
+<p>I remained six weeks in Balaclava, spending my days
+on shore, and my nights on board ship. Over our stores,
+stacked on the shore, a few sheets of rough tarpaulin were
+suspended; and beneath these&mdash;my sole protection against
+the Crimean rain and wind&mdash;I spent some portion of each
+day, receiving visitors and selling stores.</p>
+
+<p>But my chief occupation, and one with which I never
+allowed any business to interfere, was helping the doctors
+to transfer the sick and wounded from the mules and ambulances
+into the transports that had to carry them to the
+hospitals of Scutari and Buyukdere. I did not forget the
+main object of my journey, to which I would have devoted
+myself exclusively had I been allowed; and very
+familiar did I become before long with the sick wharf of
+Balaclava. My acquaintance with it began very shortly
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg&nbsp;97]</a></span>
+after I had reached Balaclava. The very first day that I
+approached the wharf, a party of sick and wounded had
+just arrived. Here was work for me, I felt sure. With
+so many patients, the doctors must be glad of all the hands
+they could get. Indeed, so strong was the old impulse
+within me, that I waited for no permission, but seeing a
+poor artilleryman stretched upon a pallet, groaning heavily,
+I ran up to him at once, and eased the stiff dressings.
+Lightly my practised fingers ran over the familiar work,
+and well was I rewarded when the poor fellow&rsquo;s groans
+subsided into a restless uneasy mutter. God help him!
+He had been hit in the forehead, and I think his sight
+was gone. I stooped down, and raised some tea to his
+baked lips (here and there upon the wharf were rows of
+little pannikins containing this beverage). Then his hand
+touched mine, and rested there, and I heard him mutter
+indistinctly, as though the discovery had arrested his
+wandering senses&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Ha! this is surely a woman&rsquo;s hand.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I couldn&rsquo;t say much, but I tried to whisper something
+about hope and trust in God; but all the while I think
+his thoughts were running on this strange discovery.
+Perhaps I had brought to his poor mind memories of his
+home, and the loving ones there, who would ask no greater
+favour than the privilege of helping him thus; for he continued
+to hold my hand in his feeble grasp, and whisper
+&ldquo;God bless you, <em>woman</em>&mdash;whoever you are, God bless
+you!&rdquo;&mdash;over and over again.</p>
+
+<p>I do not think that the surgeons noticed me at first,
+although, as this was my introduction to Balaclava, I had
+not neglected my personal appearance, and wore my
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg&nbsp;98]</a></span>
+favourite yellow dress, and blue bonnet, with the red ribbons;
+but I noticed one coming to me, who, I think, would have
+laughed very merrily had it not been for the poor fellow
+at my feet. As it was, he came forward, and shook hands
+very kindly, saying, &ldquo;How do you do, ma&rsquo;am? Much
+obliged to you for looking after my poor fellow; very glad
+to see you here.&rdquo; And glad they always were, the kind-hearted
+doctors, to let me help them look after the sick
+and wounded sufferers brought to that fearful wharf.</p>
+
+<p>I wonder if I can ever forget the scenes I witnessed
+there? Oh! they were heartrending. I declare that I
+saw rough bearded men stand by and cry like the softest-hearted
+women at the sights of suffering they saw; while
+some who scorned comfort for themselves, would fidget
+about for hours before the long trains of mules and ambulances
+came in, nervous lest the most trifling thing that
+could minister to the sufferers&rsquo; comfort should be neglected.
+I have often heard men talk and preach very learnedly and
+conclusively about the great wickedness and selfishness of the
+human heart; I used to wonder whether they would have
+modified those opinions if they had been my companions
+for one day of the six weeks I spent upon that wharf, and
+seen but one day&rsquo;s experience of the Christian sympathy
+and brotherly love shown by the strong to the weak. The
+task was a trying one, and familiarity, you might think,
+would have worn down their keener feelings of pity and
+sympathy; but it was not so.</p>
+
+<p>I was in the midst of my sad work one day when the
+Admiral came up, and stood looking on. He vouchsafed
+no word nor look of recognition in answer to my salute,
+but stood silently by, his hands behind his back, watching
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg&nbsp;99]</a></span>
+the sick being lifted into the boats. You might have
+thought that he had little feeling, so stern and expressionless
+was his face; but once, when they raised a sufferer
+somewhat awkwardly, and he groaned deeply, that rough
+man broke out all at once with an oath, that was strangely
+like a prayer, and bade the men, for God&rsquo;s sake, take more
+care. And, coming up to me, he clapped me on the
+shoulder, saying, &ldquo;I am glad to see you here, old lady,
+among these poor fellows;&rdquo; while, I am most strangely
+deceived if I did not see a tear-drop gathering in his eye.
+It was on this same day, I think, that bending down over
+a poor fellow whose senses had quite gone, and, I fear me,
+would never return to him in this world, he took me for
+his wife, and calling me &ldquo;Mary, Mary,&rdquo; many times,
+asked me how it was he had got home so quickly, and why
+he did not see the children; and said he felt sure he should
+soon get better now. Poor fellow! I could not undeceive
+him. I think the fancy happily caused by the touch of a
+woman&rsquo;s hand soothed his dying hour; for I do not fancy
+he could have lived to reach Scutari. I never knew it for
+certain, but I always felt sure that he would never wake
+from that dream of home in this world.</p>
+
+<p>And here, lest the reader should consider that I am
+speaking too highly of my own actions, I must have recourse
+to a plan which I shall frequently adopt in the
+following pages, and let another voice speak for me in the
+kind letter received long after Balaclava had been left to
+its old masters, by one who had not forgotten his old companion
+on the sick-wharf. The writer, Major (then Captain)
+R&mdash;&mdash;, had charge of the wharf while I was there.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg&nbsp;100]</a></span>
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Glasgow, Sept. 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Dear Mrs. Seacole</span>,&mdash;I am very sorry to hear that
+you have been unfortunate in business; but I am glad to
+hear that you have found friends in Lord R&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;and
+others, who are ready to help you. No one knows better
+than I do how much you did to help poor sick and
+wounded soldiers; and I feel sure you will find in your
+day of trouble that they have not forgotten it.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<p>Major R&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;was a brave and experienced officer, but the
+scenes on the sick-wharf unmanned him often. I have
+known him nervously restless if the people were behindhand,
+even for a few minutes, in their preparations for the
+wounded. But in this feeling all shared alike. Only
+women could have done more than they did who attended
+to this melancholy duty; and they, not because their
+hearts could be softer, but because their hands are moulded
+for this work.</p>
+
+<p>But it must not be supposed that we had no cheerful
+scenes upon the sick-wharf. Sometimes a light-hearted
+fellow&mdash;generally a sailor&mdash;would forget his pain, and do
+his best to keep the rest in good spirits. Once I heard my
+name eagerly pronounced, and turning round, recognised
+a sailor whom I remembered as one of the crew of the
+&ldquo;Alarm,&rdquo; stationed at Kingston, a few years back.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Why, as I live, if this ain&rsquo;t Aunty Seacole, of
+Jamaica! Shiver all that&rsquo;s left of my poor timbers&rdquo;&mdash;and
+I saw that the left leg was gone&mdash;&ldquo;if this ain&rsquo;t a
+rum go, mates!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Ah! my man, I&rsquo;m sorry to see you in this sad
+plight.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg&nbsp;101]</a></span>
+&ldquo;Never fear for me, Aunty Seacole; I&rsquo;ll make the
+best of the leg the Rooshians have left me. I&rsquo;ll get at
+them soon again, never fear. You don&rsquo;t think, messmates&rdquo;&mdash;he
+never left his wounded comrades alone&mdash;&ldquo;that
+they&rsquo;ll think less of us at home for coming back
+with a limb or so short?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;You bear your troubles well, my son.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Eh! do I, Aunty?&rdquo; and he seemed surprised. &ldquo;Why,
+look&rsquo;ye, when I&rsquo;ve seen so many pretty fellows knocked
+off the ship&rsquo;s roll altogether, don&rsquo;t you think I ought to
+be thankful if I can answer the bo&rsquo;swain&rsquo;s call anyhow?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>And this was the sailors&rsquo; philosophy always. And
+this brave fellow, after he had sipped some lemonade, and
+laid down, when he heard the men groaning, raised his
+head and comforted them in the same strain again; and,
+it may seem strange, but it quieted them.</p>
+
+<p>I used to make sponge-cakes on board the &ldquo;Medora,&rdquo;
+with eggs brought from Constantinople. Only the other
+day, Captain S&mdash;&mdash;, who had charge of the &ldquo;Medora,&rdquo;
+reminded me of them. These, with some lemonade, were
+all the doctors would allow me to give to the wounded.
+They all liked the cake, poor fellows, better than anything
+else: perhaps because it tasted of &ldquo;home.&rdquo;</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg&nbsp;102]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>ALARMS IN THE HARBOUR&mdash;GETTING THE STORES ON SHORE&mdash;ROBBERY
+BY NIGHT AND DAY&mdash;THE PREDATORY TRIBES OF BALACLAVA&mdash;ACTIVITY
+OF THE AUTHORITIES&mdash;WE OBTAIN LEAVE TO
+ERECT OUR STORE, AND FIX UPON SPRING HILL AS ITS SITE&mdash;THE
+TURKISH PACHA&mdash;THE FLOOD&mdash;OUR CARPENTERS&mdash;I BECOME AN
+ENGLISH SCHOOLMISTRESS ABROAD.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>My life in Balaclava could not but be a rough one.
+The exposure by day was enough to try any woman&rsquo;s
+strength; and at night one was not always certain of repose.
+Nor was it the easiest thing to clamber up the steep
+sides of the &ldquo;Medora;&rdquo; and more than once I narrowly
+escaped a sousing in the harbour. Why it should be so
+difficult to climb a ship&rsquo;s side, when a few more staves in
+the ladder, and those a little broader, would make it so easy,
+I have never been able to guess. And once on board the
+&ldquo;Medora,&rdquo; my berth would not altogether have suited a
+delicate female with weak nerves. It was an ammunition
+ship, and we slept over barrels of gunpowder and tons of
+cartridges, with the by no means impossible contingency
+of their prematurely igniting, and giving us no time to
+say our prayers before launching us into eternity. Great
+care was enjoined, and at eight o&rsquo;clock every evening
+Captain S&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;would come down, and order all lights out
+for the night. But I used to put my lantern into a deep
+basin, behind some boxes, and so evaded the regulation.
+I felt rather ashamed of this breach of discipline one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg&nbsp;103]</a></span>
+night, when another ammunition ship caught fire in the
+crowded harbour, and threatened us all with speedy destruction.
+We all knew, if they failed in extinguishing
+the fire pretty quickly, what our chances of life were worth,
+and I think the bravest drew his breath heavily at the
+thought of our danger. Fortunately, they succeeded in
+extinguishing the firebrand before any mischief was done;
+but I do not think the crew of the &ldquo;Medora&rdquo; slept very
+comfortably that night. It was said that the Russians
+had employed an incendiary; but it would have been
+strange if in that densely crowded harbour some accidents
+had not happened without their agency.</p>
+
+<p>Harassing work, indeed, was the getting our stores on
+shore, with the aid of the Greek and Maltese boatmen,
+whose profession is thievery. Not only did they demand
+exorbitant sums for the carriage, but they contrived to rob
+us by the way in the most ingenious manner. Thus
+many things of value were lost in the little journey from
+the &ldquo;Albatross&rdquo; and &ldquo;Nonpareil&rdquo; to the shore, which
+had made the long voyage from England safely. Keep as
+sharp a look out as I might, some package or box would
+be tipped overboard by the sudden swaying of the boat, or
+passing by of one of the boatmen&mdash;of course, accidentally&mdash;and
+no words could induce the rascals, in their feigned
+ignorance of my language, to stop; and, looking back at
+the helpless waif, it was not altogether consolatory to see
+another boat dart from between some shipping, where it
+had been waiting, as accidentally, ready to pounce upon
+any such wind or waterfalls.</p>
+
+<p>Still more harassing work was it to keep the things
+together on the shore: often in the open light of day,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg&nbsp;104]</a></span>
+while I sat there (after my duties on the sick-wharf were
+over) selling stores, or administering medicine to the men
+of the Land Transport and Army Works Corps, and others,
+who soon found out my skill, valuable things would be abstracted;
+while there was no limit to the depredations by
+night. Of course we hired men to watch; but our choice
+of servants was very limited, and very often those we employed
+not only shut their eyes to the plunder of their
+companions, but helped themselves freely. The adage,
+&ldquo;set a thief to catch a thief,&rdquo; answered very badly in
+Balaclava.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes Jew Johnny would volunteer to watch for
+the night; and glad I was when I knew that the honest
+lynx-eyed fellow was there. One night he caught a great-limbed
+Turk making off with a firkin of butter and some
+other things. The fellow broke away from Johnny&rsquo;s grasp
+with the butter, but the lad marked him down to his
+wretched den, behind the engineers&rsquo; quarters, and, on the
+following morning, quietly introduced me to the lazy culprit,
+who was making up for the partial loss of his night&rsquo;s
+rest among as evil-looking a set of comrades as I have ever
+seen. There was a great row, and much indignation
+shown at the purpose of my visit; but I considered myself
+justified in calling in the aid of one of the Provost marshal&rsquo;s
+officers, and, in the presence of this most invaluable
+official, a confession was soon made. Beneath the fellow&rsquo;s
+dirty bed, the butter was found buried; and, in its company,
+a two-dozen case of sherry, which the rogue had, in
+flagrant defiance of the Prophet&rsquo;s injunction, stolen for his
+own private drinking, a few nights previously.</p>
+
+<p>The thievery in this little out-of-the way port was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg&nbsp;105]</a></span>
+something marvellous; and the skill and ingenuity of the
+operators would have reflected credit upon the <i>&eacute;lite</i> of their
+profession practising in the most civilized city of Europe.
+Nor was the thievery confined altogether to the professionals,
+who had crowded to this scene of action from the
+cities and islands of the Mediterranean. They robbed us,
+the Turks, and one another; but a stronger hand was
+sometimes laid on them. The Turk, however, was sure
+to be the victim, let who might be the oppressor.</p>
+
+<p>In this predatory warfare, as in more honourable service,
+the Zouaves particularly distinguished themselves.
+These undoubtedly gallant little fellows, always restless
+for action, of some sort, would, when the luxury of a
+brash with the Russians was occasionally denied them,
+come down to Balaclava, in search of opportunities of
+waging war against society at large. Their complete and
+utter absence of conscientious scruples as to the rights of
+property was most amusing. To see a Zouave gravely
+cheat a Turk, or trip up a Greek street-merchant, or Maltese
+fruit-seller, and scud away with the spoil, cleverly
+stowed in his roomy red pantaloons, was an operation,
+for its coolness, expedition, and perfectness, well worth
+seeing. And, to a great extent, they escaped scatheless,
+for the English Provost marshal&rsquo;s department was rather
+chary of interfering with the eccentricities of our gallant
+allies; while if the French had taken close cognizance of
+the Zouaves&rsquo; amusements out of school, one-half of the
+regiments would have been always engaged punishing the
+other half.</p>
+
+<p>The poor Turk! it is lamentable to think how he was
+robbed, abused, and bullied by his friends. Why didn&rsquo;t
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg&nbsp;106]</a></span>
+he show a little pluck? There wasn&rsquo;t a rough sailor, or
+shrewd boy&mdash;the English boy, in all his impudence and
+prejudice, flourished in Balaclava&mdash;who would not gladly
+have patted him upon the back if he would but have held
+up his head, and shown ever so little spirit. But the
+Englishman cannot understand a coward&mdash;will scarcely take
+the trouble to pity him; and even the craven Greek could
+lord it over the degenerate descendants of the fierce Arabs,
+who&mdash;so they told me on the spot&mdash;had wrested Constantinople
+from the Christians, in those old times of which I
+know so little. Very often an injured Turk would run up
+to where I sat, and stand there, wildly telegraphing his
+complaints against some villainous-looking Greek, or
+Italian, whom a stout English lad would have shaken out
+of his dirty skin in five minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Once, however, I saw the tables turned. As the
+anecdote will help to illustrate the relative positions
+of the predatory tribes of Balaclava, I will narrate it.
+Hearing one morning a louder hubbub than was usual
+upon the completion of a bargain, and the inevitable
+quarrelling that always followed, I went up to where
+I saw an excited crowd collected around a Turk, in
+whose hands a Greek was struggling vainly. This
+Greek had, it seemed, robbed his enemy, but the Turk
+was master this time, and had, in order to force from
+the robber a confession of the place where the stolen
+things were deposited (like dogs, as they were, these fellows
+were fond of burying their plunder), resorted to
+torture. This was effected most ingeniously and simply
+by means of some packthread, which, bound round the
+Greek&rsquo;s two thumbs, was tightened on the tourniquet
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg&nbsp;107]</a></span>
+principle, until the pain elicited a confession. But the
+Turk, stimulated to retaliation by his triumph, bagged the
+Greek&rsquo;s basket, which contained amongst other things two
+watches, which their present owner had no doubt stolen.
+Driven to the most ludicrous show of despair, the Greek
+was about to attempt another desperate struggle for the
+recovery of his goods, when two Zouaves elbowed their
+small persons upon the crowded stage, and were eagerly
+referred to by all the parties concerned in the squabble.
+How they contrived it, I cannot say, so prompt were their
+movements; but, in a very few minutes, the watches were
+in their possession, and going much faster than was agreeable
+either to Turk or Greek, who both combined to
+arrest this new movement, and thereby added a sharp
+thrashing to their other injuries. The Zouaves effected
+their escape safely, while the Greek, with a despair that
+had in it an equal share of the ludicrous and the tragic,
+threw himself upon the dusty ground, and tore his thin
+hair out by handfuls. I believe that the poor wretch,
+whom we could not help pitying, journeyed to Kamiesch,
+to discover his oppressors; but I fear he didn&rsquo;t gain much
+information there.</p>
+
+<p>Had it not been for the unremitting activity of the authorities,
+no life would have been safe in Balaclava, with
+its population of villains of every nation. As it was,
+murder was sometimes added to robbery, and many of the
+rascals themselves died suspicious deaths, with the particulars
+of which the authorities did not trouble themselves.
+But the officials worked hard, both in the harbour and on
+shore, to keep order; few men could have worked harder.
+I often saw the old grey-haired Admiral about before the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg&nbsp;108]</a></span>
+sun had fairly shown itself; and those of his subordinates
+must have been somewhat heavy sleepers who could play
+the sluggard then.</p>
+
+<p>At length the necessary preparations to establish our
+store were made. We hit upon a spot about two miles from
+Balaclava, in advance of Kadikoi, close to where the railway
+engines were stationed, and within a mile of head-quarters.
+Leave having been obtained to erect buildings here,
+we set to work briskly, and soon altered the appearance of
+Spring Hill&mdash;so we christened our new home. Sometimes
+on horseback, sometimes getting a lift on the commissariat
+carts, and occasionally on the ammunition railway-waggons,
+I managed to visit Spring Hill daily, and very soon fitted
+up a shed sufficiently large to take up my abode in. But
+the difficulty of building our store was immense. To obtain
+material was next to impossible; but that collected
+(not a little was, by leave of the Admiral, gleaned from
+the floating rubbish in the harbour), to find workmen to
+make use of it was still more difficult. I spent days
+going round the shipping, offering great wages, even, for
+an invalid able to handle saw and hammer, however
+roughly, and many a long ride through the camps did I
+take on the same errand. At length, by dint of hard canvassing,
+we obtained the aid of two English sailors, whom
+I nicknamed &ldquo;Big and Little Chips,&rdquo; and some Turks,
+and set to work in good earnest.</p>
+
+<p>I procured the Turks from the Pacha who commanded
+the division encamped in the neighbourhood of Spring
+Hill. It was decided that we should apply to him for
+help, and accordingly I became ambassadress on this
+delicate mission, and rode over to the Pacha&rsquo;s quarters,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg&nbsp;109]</a></span>
+Jew Johnny attending me as interpreter. I was received
+by the Pacha with considerable kindness and no trifling
+amount of formality, and after taking coffee I proceeded,
+through Jew Johnny, to explain the object of my visit,
+while his Excellency, a tall man, with a dark pleasing
+face, smoked gravely, and took my request into his gracious
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day came the answer to my request, in
+the persons of two curious Turkish carpenters, who were
+placed at our orders. After a little while, too, a Turkish
+officer, whom I christened Captain Ali Baba, took so great
+an interest in our labours that he would work like any carpenter,
+and with a delight and zeal that were astonishing.
+To see him fall back, and look smilingly at every piece of
+his workmanship, was a sight to restore the most severely
+tried temper. I really think that the good-hearted fellow
+thought it splendid fun, and never wearied of it. But for
+him I do not know how we should have managed with our
+other Turkish &ldquo;chips&rdquo;&mdash;chips of the true old Turkish
+block they were&mdash;deliberate, slow, and indolent, breaking
+off into endless interruptions for the sacred duties of eating
+and praying, and getting into out-of-the-way corners at
+all times of the day to smoke themselves to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of our work a calamity occurred, which
+was very nearly becoming a catastrophe. By the giving
+way of a dam, after some heavy rains, the little stream which
+threaded its silvery way past Spring Hill swelled without
+any warning into a torrent, which, sweeping through my
+temporary hut, very nearly carried us all away, and destroyed
+stores of between one and two hundred pounds in
+value. This calamity might have had a tragical issue for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg&nbsp;110]</a></span>
+me, for seeing a little box which contained some things,
+valuable as relics of the past, being carried away, I
+plunged in after it, and losing my balance, was rolled over
+and over by the stream, and with some difficulty reached
+the shore. Some of Lord Raglan&rsquo;s staff passing our wreck
+on the following day, made inquiries respecting the loss
+we had sustained, and a messenger was sent from head-quarters,
+who made many purchases, in token of their
+sympathy.</p>
+
+<p>My visit to the Turkish Pacha laid the foundation of a
+lasting friendship. He soon found his way to Spring
+Hill, and before long became one of my best customers
+and most frequent visitors. It was astonishing to note
+how completely, now that he was in the land of the
+Giaours, he adapted himself to the tastes and habits of the
+infidels. Like a Scotch Presbyterian, on the Continent for
+a holiday, he threw aside all the prejudices of his education,
+and drank bottled beer, sherry, and champagne with
+an appreciation of their qualities that no thirsty-souled
+Christian could have expressed more gratefully. He was
+very affable with us all, and would sometimes keep Jew
+Johnny away from his work for hours, chatting with us
+or the English officers who would lounge into our as yet
+unfinished store. Sometimes he would come down to
+breakfast, and spend the greater part of the day at Spring
+Hill. Indeed, the wits of Spring Hill used to laugh, and
+say that the crafty Pacha was throwing his pocket-handkerchief
+at Madame Seacole, widow; but as the honest
+fellow candidly confessed he had three wives already at
+home, I acquit him of any desire to add to their number.</p>
+
+<p>The Pacha&rsquo;s great ambition was to be familiar with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg&nbsp;111]</a></span>
+the English language, and at last nothing would do but he
+must take lessons of me. So he would come down, and
+sitting in my store, with a Turk or so at his feet, to attend
+to his most important pipe, by inserting little red-hot
+pieces of charcoal at intervals, would try hard to sow a
+few English sentences in his treacherous memory. He
+never got beyond half a dozen; and I think if we had continued
+in the relation of pupil and mistress until now, the
+number would not have been increased greatly. &ldquo;Madame
+Seacole,&rdquo; &ldquo;Gentlemen, good morning,&rdquo; and &ldquo;More champagne,&rdquo;
+with each syllable much dwelt upon, were his
+favourite sentences. It was capital fun to hear him, when
+I was called away suddenly to attend to a customer, or to
+give a sick man medicine, repeating gravely the sentence
+we had been studying, until I passed him, and started him
+with another.</p>
+
+<p>Very frequently he would compliment me by ordering
+his band down to Spring Hill for my amusement. They
+played excellently well, and I used to think that I preferred
+their music to that of the French and English regimental
+bands. I laughed heartily one day, when, in compliance
+with the kind-hearted Anglo-Turkish Pacha&rsquo;s orders, they
+came out with a grand new tune, in which I with difficulty
+recognised a very distant resemblance to &ldquo;God save
+the Queen.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Altogether he was a capital neighbour, and gave such
+strict orders to his men to respect our property that we
+rarely lost anything. On the whole, the Turks were the
+most honest of the nations there (I except the English and
+the Sardinians), and the most tractable. But the Greeks
+hated them, and showed their hate in every way. In
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg&nbsp;112]</a></span>
+bringing up things for the Pacha&rsquo;s use they would let the
+mules down, and smash their loads most relentlessly. Now
+and then they suffered, as was the case one day when I
+passed through the camp and saw my friend superintending
+the correction of a Greek who was being bastinadoed. It
+seemed a painful punishment.</p>
+
+<p>I was sorry, therefore, when my friend&rsquo;s division was
+ordered to Kamara, and we lost our neighbours. But
+my pupil did not forget his schoolmistress. A few days
+after they had left the neighbourhood of Spring Hill came
+a messenger, with a present of lambs, poultry, and eggs,
+and a letter, which I could not decipher, as many of the
+interpreters could speak English far better than they could
+write it. But we discovered that the letter contained an
+invitation, to Mr. Day and myself, to go over to Kamara,
+and select from the spoil of the village anything that
+might be useful in our new buildings. And a few days
+later came over a large araba, drawn by four mules, and
+laden with a pair of glass-doors, and some window-frames,
+which the thoughtful kind Pacha had judged&mdash;and judged
+rightly&mdash;would be a very acceptable present. And very
+often the good-natured fellow would ride over from Kamara,
+and resume his acquaintance with myself and my
+champagne, and practise his English sentences.</p>
+
+<p>We felt the loss of our Turkish neighbours in more
+ways than one. The neighbourhood, after their departure,
+was left lonely and unprotected, and it was not until a division
+of the Land Transport Corps came and took up their
+quarters near us, that I felt at all secure of personal
+safety. Mr. Day rarely returned to Spring Hill until
+nightfall relieved him from his many duties, and I
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg&nbsp;113]</a></span>
+depended chiefly upon two sailors, both of questionable character,
+two black servants, Jew Johnny, and my own reputation
+for determination and courage&mdash;a poor delusion,
+which I took care to heighten by the judicious display of
+a double-barrelled pistol, lent me for the purpose by Mr.
+Day, and which I couldn&rsquo;t have loaded to save my life.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>THE BRITISH HOTEL&mdash;DOMESTIC DIFFICULTIES&mdash;OUR ENEMIES&mdash;THE
+RUSSIAN RATS&mdash;ADVENTURES IN SEARCH OF A CAT&mdash;LIGHT-FINGERED
+ZOUAVES&mdash;CRIMEAN THIEVES&mdash;POWDERING A HORSE.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Summer was fairly advanced before the British Hotel was
+anything like finished; indeed, it never was completed,
+and when we left the Hill, a year later, it still wanted
+shutters. But long before that time Spring Hill had
+gained a great reputation. Of course, I have nothing to
+do with what occurred in the camp, although I could not
+help hearing a great deal about it. Mismanagement and
+privation there might have been, but my business was to
+make things right in my sphere, and whatever confusion,
+and disorder existed elsewhere, comfort and order were
+always to be found at Spring Hill. When there was no
+sun elsewhere, some few gleams&mdash;so its grateful visitors
+said&mdash;always seemed to have stayed behind, to cheer the
+weary soldiers that gathered in the British Hotel. And,
+perhaps, as my kind friend <i>Punch</i> said, after all these
+things had become pleasant memories of the past.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg&nbsp;114]</a></span>
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;The cold without gave a zest, no doubt,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To the welcome warmth within;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But her smile, good old soul, lent heat to the coal,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And power to the pannikin.&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let me, in a few words, describe the British Hotel.
+It was acknowledged by all to be the most complete thing
+there. It cost no less than &pound;800. The buildings and
+yards took up at least an acre of ground, and were as perfect
+as we could make them. The hotel and storehouse
+consisted of a long iron room, with counters, closets, and
+shelves; above it was another low room, used by us for
+storing our goods, and above this floated a large union-jack.
+Attached to this building was a little kitchen, not
+unlike a ship&rsquo;s caboose&mdash;all stoves and shelves. In addition
+to the iron house were two wooden houses, with sleeping
+apartments for myself and Mr. Day, out-houses for our
+servants, a canteen for the soldiery, and a large enclosed
+yard for our stock, full of stables, low huts, and sties.
+Everything, although rough and unpolished, was comfortable
+and warm; and there was a completeness about the
+whole which won general admiration. The reader may
+judge of the manner in which we had stocked the interior
+of our store from the remark, often repeated by the officers,
+that you might get everything at Mother Seacole&rsquo;s, from an
+anchor down to a needle.</p>
+
+<p>In addition, we had for our transport service four
+carts, and as many horses and mules as could be kept
+from the thieves. To reckon upon being in possession of
+these, at any future time, was impossible; we have more
+than once seen a fair stud stabled at night-time, and on
+the following morning been compelled to borrow cattle
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg&nbsp;115]</a></span>
+from the Land Transport camp, to fetch our things up
+from Balaclava.</p>
+
+<p>But it must not be supposed that my domestic difficulties
+came to an end with the completion of the hotel.
+True, I was in a better position to bear the Crimean cold
+and rain, but my other foes were as busy as ever they had
+been on the beach at Balaclava. Thieves, biped and
+quadruped, human and animal, troubled me more than
+ever; and perhaps the most difficult to deal with were
+the least dangerous. The Crimean rats, for instance, who
+had the appetites of London aldermen, and were as little
+dainty as hungry schoolboys. Whether they had left Sebastopol,
+guided by the instinct which leads their kindred
+in other parts of the world to forsake sinking ships, or
+because the garrison rations offended their palates, or
+whether they had patriotically emigrated, to make war
+against the English larders, I do not pretend to guess;
+but, whatever was their motive, it drew them in great
+abundance to Spring Hill. They occasionally did us
+damage, in a single night, to the tune of two or three
+pounds&mdash;wasting what they could not devour. You could
+keep nothing sacred from their strong teeth. When hard
+pressed they more than once attacked the live sheep; and
+at last they went so far as to nibble one of our black
+cooks, Francis, who slept among the flour barrels. On the
+following morning he came to me, his eyes rolling angrily,
+and his white teeth gleaming, to show me a mangled
+finger, which they had bitten, and ask me to dress it. He
+made a great fuss; and a few mornings later he came
+in a violent passion this time, and gave me instant notice
+to quit my service, although we were paying him two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg&nbsp;116]</a></span>
+pounds a week, with board and rations. This time the
+rats had, it appeared, been bolder, and attacked his head,
+in a spot where its natural armour, the wool, was thinnest,
+and the silly fellow had a notion that the souls of the slain
+Russian soldiers had entered the bodies of the rats, and made
+vengeful war upon their late enemies. Driven to such an
+extremity, I made up my mind to scour the camp, in
+search of a cat, and, after a long day&rsquo;s hunt, I came to the
+conclusion that the tale of Whittington was by no means
+an improbable one. Indeed, had a brisk young fellow
+with a cat, of even ordinary skill in its profession, made
+their appearance at Spring Hill, I would gladly have put
+them in the way&mdash;of laying the foundation, at least&mdash;of a
+fortune. At last I found a benefactor, in the Guards&rsquo;
+camp, in Colonel D&mdash;&mdash;, of the Coldstreams, who kindly
+promised me a great pet, well known in the camp, and
+perhaps by some who may read these pages, by the name
+of Pinkie. Pinkie was then helping a brother officer to
+clear his hut, but on the following day a Guardsman
+brought the noble fellow down. He lived in clover for a
+few days, but he had an English cat-like attachment for
+his old house, and despite the abundance of game, Pinkie
+soon stole away to his old master&rsquo;s quarters, three miles
+off. More than once the men brought him back to me, but
+the attractions of Spring Hill were never strong enough
+to detain him long with me.</p>
+
+<p>From the human thieves that surrounded Spring Hill
+I had to stand as sharp a siege as the Russians had in that
+poor city against which we heard the guns thundering
+daily; while the most cunning and desperate sorties were
+often made upon the most exposed parts of my defences,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg&nbsp;117]</a></span>
+and sometimes with success. Scores of the keenest eyes
+and hundreds of the sharpest fingers in the world were
+always ready to take advantage of the least oversight. I
+had to keep two boys, whose chief occupation was to watch
+the officers&rsquo; horses, tied up to the doorposts of the British
+Hotel. Before I adopted this safeguard, more than one
+officer would leave his horse for a few minutes, and on his
+return find it gone to the neighbourhood of the Naval
+Brigade, or the horse-fair at Kamiesch. My old friends,
+the Zouaves, soon found me out at Spring Hill, and the
+wiry, light-fingered, fighting-loving gentry spent much of
+their leisure there. Those confounded trowsers of theirs
+offered conveniences of stowage-room which they made
+rare use of. Nothing was too small, and few things too
+unwieldy, to ride in them; like the pockets of clown in a
+pantomime, they could accommodate a well-grown baby
+or a pound of sausages equally well. I have a firm conviction
+that they stuffed turkeys, geese, and fowls into
+them, and I positively know that my only respectable teapot
+travelled off in the same conveyance, while I detected one
+little fellow, who had tied them down tight at his ankles,
+stowing away some pounds of tea and coffee mixed. Some
+officers, who were present, cut the cords, and, holding up
+the little scamp by the neck, shook his trowsers empty
+amid shouts of laughter.</p>
+
+<p>Our live stock, from the horses and mules down to the
+geese and fowls, suffered terribly. Although we kept a
+sharp look-out by day, and paid a man five shillings a
+night as watchman, our losses were very great. During
+the time we were in the Crimea we lost over a score of
+horses, four mules, eighty goats, many sheep, pigs, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg&nbsp;118]</a></span>
+poultry, by thieving alone. We missed in a single night
+forty goats and seven sheep, and on Mr. Day&rsquo;s going to
+head-quarters with intelligence of the disaster, they told
+him that Lord Raglan had recently received forty sheep
+from Asia, all of which had disappeared in the same
+manner. The geese, turkeys, and fowls vanished by scores.
+We found out afterwards that the watchman paid to guard
+the sheep, used to kill a few occasionally. As he represented
+them to have died a natural death during the night,
+he got permission to bury them, instead of which he sold
+them. King Frost claimed his share of our stock too, and
+on one December night, of the winter of 1855, killed no
+less than forty sheep. It is all very well to smile at these
+things now, but at the time they were heartrending
+enough, and helped, if they did not cause, the ruin which
+eventually overtook the firm of Seacole and Day. The
+determination and zeal which besiegers and besieged
+showed with respect to a poor pig, which was quietly and
+unconsciously fattening in its sty, are worthy of record.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh pork, in the spring of 1855, was certainly one
+of those luxuries not easily obtainable in that part of the
+Crimea to which the British army was confined, and when
+it became known that Mother Seacole had purchased a
+promising young porker from one of the ships in Balaclava,
+and that, brave woman! she had formed the courageous
+resolution of fattening it for her favourites, the excitement
+among the frequenters of Spring Hill was very great. I
+could laugh heartily now, when I think of the amount of
+persuasion and courting I stood out for before I bound
+myself how its four legs were to be disposed of. I learnt
+more at that time of the trials and privileges of authority
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg&nbsp;119]</a></span>
+than I am ever likely to experience again. Upon my
+word, I think if the poor thing had possessed as many legs
+as my editor tells me somebody called the Hydra (with
+whom my readers are perhaps more familiar than I am)
+had heads, I should have found candidates for them. As
+it was, the contest for those I had to bestow was very
+keen, and the lucky individuals who were favoured by me
+looked after their interests most carefully. One of them,
+to render mistake or misunderstanding impossible, entered
+my promise in my day-book. The reader will perhaps
+smile at the following important memorandum in the
+gallant officer&rsquo;s writing:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;Memorandum that Mrs. Seacole did this day, in the
+presence of Major A&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;and Lieutenant W&mdash;&mdash;, promise
+Captain H&mdash;&mdash;, R.A., a leg of <em>the</em> pig.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Now it was well known that many greedy eyes and
+fingers were directed towards the plump fellow, and considerable
+interest was manifested in the result of the struggle,
+&ldquo;Mrs. Seacole <i>versus</i> Thievery.&rdquo; I think they had
+some confidence in me, and that I was the favourite; but
+there was a large field against me, which found its backers
+also; and many a bet was laughingly laid on the ultimate
+fate of the unconscious porker.</p>
+
+<p>I baffled many a knavish trick to gain possession of the
+fine fellow; but, after all, I lost him in the middle of the
+day, when I thought the boldest rogues would not have
+run the risk. The shouts and laughter of some officers who
+were riding down from the front first informed me of my
+loss. Up they rode, calling out&mdash;&ldquo;Mother Seacole! old
+lady! quick!&mdash;<em>the</em> pig&rsquo;s gone!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I rushed out, injured woman that I was, and saw it all
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg&nbsp;120]</a></span>
+at a glance. But that my straw wide-awake was in the
+way, I could have torn my hair in my vexation. I rushed
+to the sty, found the nest warm, and with prompt decision
+prepared for speedy pursuit. Back I came to the horsemen,
+calling out&mdash;&ldquo;Off with you, my sons!&mdash;they can&rsquo;t
+have got very far away yet. Do your best to save my
+bacon!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Delighted with the fun, the horsemen dispersed, laughing
+and shouting&mdash;&ldquo;Stole away! hark away!&rdquo; while I ran indoors,
+turned out all my available body-guard, and started in
+pursuit also. Not half a mile off we soon saw a horseman
+wave his cap; and starting off into a run, came to a little
+hollow, where the poor panting animal and two Greek
+thieves had been run down. The Provost-marshal took the
+latter in hand willingly, and Piggy was brought home in
+triumph. But those who had pork expectancies, hearing
+of the adventure, grew so seriously alarmed at the narrow
+escape, that they petitioned me to run so desperate a
+hazard no longer; and the poor thing was killed on the
+following day, and distributed according to promise. A
+certain portion was reserved for sausages, which, fried
+with mashed potatoes, were quite the rage at the British
+Hotel for some days. Some pork was also sent to head-quarters,
+with an account of the dangers we ran from
+thieves. It drew the following kind acknowledgment
+from General B&mdash;&mdash;:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Head-Quarters.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">My dear Mrs. Seacole</span>,&mdash;I am very much obliged to
+you indeed for your pork. I have spoken to Colonel P&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;as
+to the police of your neighbourhood, and he will
+see what arrangement can be made for the general protection
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg&nbsp;121]</a></span>
+of that line of road. When the high-road is finished,
+you will be better off. Let me know at the time of any
+depredations that are committed, and we will try and protect
+you.&mdash;I am, faithfully yours,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;M. L. B&mdash;&mdash;.&rdquo;</p></div>
+
+<p>For the truth was&mdash;although I can laugh at my fears
+now&mdash;I was often most horribly frightened at Spring Hill;
+and there was cause for it too. My washerwoman, who,
+with her family, lived not half a mile from us, was with
+me one day, and carried off some things for the wash. On
+the following morning I was horrified to learn that she,
+her father, husband, and children&mdash;in all, seven&mdash;had been
+most foully murdered during the night: only one of the
+whole family recovered from her wounds, and lived to tell
+the tale. It created a great sensation at the time, and
+caused me to pass many a sleepless night, for the murderers
+were never discovered.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst I am upon the subject of Crimean thievery, I
+may as well exhaust it without paying any regard to the
+chronological order of my reminiscences. I have before
+mentioned what I suffered from the French. One day I
+caught one of our allies in my kitchen, robbing me in the
+most ungrateful manner. He had met with an accident
+near Spring Hill (I believe he belonged to a French regiment
+lent to assist the English in road-making), and had
+been doctored by me; and now I found him filling his
+pockets, before taking &ldquo;French&rdquo; leave of us. My black
+man, Francis, pulled from his pockets a yet warm fowl,
+and other provisions. We kicked him off the premises,
+and he found refuge with some men of the Army Works
+Corps, who pitied him and gave him shelter. He woke
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg&nbsp;122]</a></span>
+them in the middle of the night, laying hands rather
+clumsily on everything that was removeable; and in the
+morning they brought him to me, to ask what they should
+do with him. Unluckily for him, a French officer of rank
+happened to be in the store, who, on hearing our tale,
+packed him off to his regiment. I gathered from the expression
+of the officer&rsquo;s face, and the dread legible upon
+the culprit&rsquo;s, that it might be some considerable time
+before his itch for breaking the eighth commandment could
+be again indulged in.</p>
+
+<p>The trouble I underwent respecting a useful black
+mare, for which Mr. Day had given thirty guineas, and
+which carried me beautifully, was immense. Before it had
+been many weeks in our store it was gone&mdash;whither, I
+failed to discover. Keeping my eyes wide open, however,
+I saw &ldquo;Angelina&rdquo;&mdash;so I christened her&mdash;coming quietly
+down the hill, carrying an elderly naval officer. I was
+ready to receive the unconscious couple, and soon made my
+claim good. Of course, the officer was not to blame. He
+had bought it of a sailor, who in his turn had purchased
+the animal of a messmate, who of course had obtained it
+from another, and so on; but eventually it returned to its old
+quarters, where it only remained about a fortnight. I grew
+tired of looking for Angelina, and had given her up, when
+one day she turned up, in capital condition, in the possession
+of a French officer of Chasseurs. But nothing I could
+say to the Frenchman would induce him to take the view
+of the matter I wished, but had no right to enforce. He
+had bought the horse at Kamiesch, and intended to keep
+it. We grew hot at last; and our dispute drew out so large
+an audience that the Frenchman took alarm, and tried to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg&nbsp;123]</a></span>
+make off. I held on to Angelina for a little while; but at
+last the mare broke away from me, as Tam o&rsquo; Shanter&rsquo;s
+Maggie did from the witches (I don&rsquo;t mean that she left
+me even her tail), and vanished in a cloud of dust. It was
+the last I ever saw of Angelina.</p>
+
+<p>More than once the Crimean thievery reduced us to
+woeful straits. To a Greek, returning to Constantinople,
+we entrusted (after the murder of our washerwoman) two
+trunks, containing &ldquo;things for the wash,&rdquo; which he was
+to bring back as soon as possible. But neither upon Greek,
+trunks, nor their contents did we ever set eyes again. It
+was a serious loss. The best part of our table-cloths and
+other domestic linen, all my clothes, except two suits, and
+all of Mr. Day&rsquo;s linen vanished, and had to be replaced as
+best we could by fresh purchases from Kamiesch and Kadikoi.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most ridiculous shift I was ever put to by
+the Crimean thieves happened when we rose one morning
+and found the greater part of our stud missing. I had, in
+the course of the day, urgent occasion to ride over to the
+French camp on the Tchernaya; the only animal available
+for my transport was an old grey mare, who had contracted
+some equine disease of which I do not know the
+name, but which gave her considerable resemblance to a
+dog suffering from the mange. Now, go to the French camp
+I must; to borrow a horse was impossible, and something
+must be done with the grey. Suddenly one of those happy
+thoughts, which sometimes help us over our greatest difficulties,
+entered into my scheming brains. Could I not
+conceal the poor mare&rsquo;s worst blemishes. Her colour was
+grey; would not a thick coating of flour from my dredger
+make all right? There was no time to be lost; the remedy
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg&nbsp;124]</a></span>
+was administered successfully, and off I started; but, alas!
+the wind was high and swept the skirts of my riding habit
+so determinedly against the side of the poor beast, that
+before long its false coat was transferred to the dark cloth,
+and my innocent <i>ruse</i> exposed. The French are proverbially
+and really a polite and considerate nation, but I
+never heard more hearty peals of laughter from any sides
+than those which conveyed to me the horrible assurance
+that my scheme had unhappily failed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-top: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 1.5em;">MY WORK IN THE CRIMEA.</p>
+
+
+<p>I hope the reader will give me credit for the assertion
+that I am about to make, viz., that I enter upon the particulars
+of this chapter with great reluctance; but I
+cannot omit them, for the simple reason that they
+strengthen my one and only claim to interest the public,
+viz., my services to the brave British army in the Crimea.
+But, fortunately, I can follow a course which will not only
+render it unnecessary for me to sound my own trumpet,
+but will be more satisfactory to the reader. I can put on
+record the written opinions of those who had ample means
+of judging and ascertaining how I fulfilled the great object
+which I had in view in leaving England for the Crimea;
+and before I do so, I must solicit my readers&rsquo; attention to
+the position I held in the camp as doctress, nurse, and
+&ldquo;mother.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg&nbsp;125]</a></span>
+I have never been long in any place before I have found
+my practical experience in the science of medicine useful.
+Even in London I have found it of service to others. And
+in the Crimea, where the doctors were so overworked, and
+sickness was so prevalent, I could not be long idle; for I
+never forgot that my intention in seeking the army was to
+help the kind-hearted doctors, to be useful to whom I have
+ever looked upon and still regard as so high a privilege.</p>
+
+<p>But before very long I found myself surrounded with
+patients of my own, and this for two simple reasons. In
+the first place, the men (I am speaking of the &ldquo;ranks&rdquo;
+now) had a very serious objection to going into hospital
+for any but urgent reasons, and the regimental doctors
+were rather fond of sending them there; and, in the second
+place, they could and did get at my store sick-comforts
+and nourishing food, which the heads of the medical staff
+would sometimes find it difficult to procure. These reasons,
+with the additional one that I was very familiar with the
+diseases which they suffered most from, and successful in
+their treatment (I say this in no spirit of vanity), were
+quite sufficient to account for the numbers who came daily
+to the British Hotel for medical treatment.</p>
+
+<p>That the officers were glad of me as a doctress and
+nurse may be easily understood. When a poor fellow lay
+sickening in his cheerless hut and sent down to me, he
+knew very well that I should not ride up in answer to his
+message empty-handed. And although I did not hesitate
+to charge him with the value of the necessaries I took
+him, still he was thankful enough to be able to <em>purchase</em>
+them. When we lie ill at home surrounded with comfort,
+we never think of feeling any special gratitude for the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg&nbsp;126]</a></span>
+sick-room delicacies which we accept as a consequence of
+our illness; but the poor officer lying ill and weary in his
+crazy hut, dependent for the merest necessaries of existence
+upon a clumsy, ignorant soldier-cook, who would almost
+prefer eating his meat raw to having the trouble of cooking
+it (our English soldiers are bad campaigners), often finds
+his greatest troubles in the want of those little delicacies
+with which a weak stomach must be humoured into
+retaining nourishment. How often have I felt sad at the
+sight of poor lads, who in England thought attending early
+parade a hardship, and felt harassed if their neckcloths set
+awry, or the natty little boots would not retain their
+polish, bearing, and bearing so nobly and bravely, trials and
+hardships to which the veteran campaigner frequently
+succumbed. Don&rsquo;t you think, reader, if you were lying,
+with parched lips and fading appetite, thousands of miles
+from mother, wife, or sister, loathing the rough food by
+your side, and thinking regretfully of that English home
+where nothing that could minister to your great need
+would be left untried&mdash;don&rsquo;t you think that you would
+welcome the familiar figure of the stout lady whose bony
+horse has just pulled up at the door of your hut, and
+whose panniers contain some cooling drink, a little broth,
+some homely cake, or a dish of jelly or blanc-mange&mdash;don&rsquo;t
+you think, under such circumstances, that you would
+heartily agree with my friend <i>Punch&rsquo;s</i> remark:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;That berry-brown face, with a kind heart&rsquo;s trace<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Impressed on each wrinkle sly,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was a sight to behold, through the snow-clouds rolled<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Across that iron sky.&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>I tell you, reader, I have seen many a bold fellow&rsquo;s eyes
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg&nbsp;127]</a></span>
+moisten at such a season, when a woman&rsquo;s voice and a
+woman&rsquo;s care have brought to their minds recollections of
+those happy English homes which some of them never saw
+again; but many did, who will remember their woman-comrade
+upon the bleak and barren heights before
+Sebastopol.</p>
+
+<p>Then their calling me &ldquo;mother&rdquo; was not, I think,
+altogether unmeaning. I used to fancy that there was
+something homely in the word; and, reader, you cannot
+think how dear to them was the smallest thing that
+reminded them of home.</p>
+
+<p>Some of my Crimean patients, who were glad of me as
+nurse and doctress, bore names familiar to all England, and
+perhaps, did I ask them, they would allow me to publish
+those names. I am proud to think that a gallant sailor, on
+whose brave breast the order of Victoria rests&mdash;a more
+gallant man can never wear it&mdash;sent for the doctress whom
+he had known in Kingston, when his arm, wounded on the
+fatal 18th of June, refused to heal, and I think that the
+application I recommended did it good; but I shall let
+some of my patients&rsquo; letters, taken from a large bundle,
+speak for me. Of course I must suppress most of their
+names. Here are two from one of my best and kindest
+sons.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">My dear Mamma</span>,&mdash;Will you kindly give the bearer the
+bottle you promised me when you were here this morning,
+for my jaundice. Please let me know how much I am to
+take of it. Yours truly,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;F. M., <i>C. E.</i>&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>You see the medicine does him good, for a few days
+later comes another from the same writer:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg&nbsp;128]</a></span>
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">My dear Mrs. Seacole</span>,&mdash;I have finished the bottle,
+which has done my jaundice a deal of good. Will you
+kindly send another by bearer. Truly yours,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;F. M.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was a capital prescription which had done his jaundice
+good. There was so great a demand for it, that I kept
+it mixed in a large pan, ready to ladle it out to the scores
+of applicants who came for it.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes they would send for other and no less important
+medicines. Here is such an application from a
+sick officer:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;Mrs. Seacole would confer a favour on the writer, who
+is very ill, by giving his servant (the bearer) a boiled or
+roast fowl; if it be impossible to obtain them, some chicken
+broth would be very acceptable.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;I am yours, truly obliged,<br />
+&ldquo;J. K., 18th R. S.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Doesn&rsquo;t that read like a sick man&rsquo;s letter, glad enough
+to welcome any woman&rsquo;s face? Here are some gentlemen
+of the Commissariat anxious to speak for me:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;Arthur C&mdash;&mdash;, Comm. Staff Officer, having been
+attacked one evening with a very bad diarrh&oelig;a at Mrs.
+Seacole&rsquo;s, took some of her good medicine. It cured me
+before the next morning, and I have never been attacked
+since.&mdash;October 17th, 1855.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;Archibald R. L&mdash;&mdash;, Comm. Staff, Crimea, was suffering
+from diarrh&oelig;a for a week or more; after taking
+Mrs. Seacole&rsquo;s good medicines for two days, he became quite
+well, and remained so to this day.&mdash;October 17th, 1855.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here is Mr. M&mdash;&mdash;, paymaster of the Land Transport
+Corps, ready with a good account of my services:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg&nbsp;129]</a></span>
+<p>&ldquo;I certify that Madame Seacole twice cured me effectually
+of dysentery while in the Crimea, and also my clerk
+and the men of my corps, to my certain knowledge.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>And some of the men shall speak for themselves:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Stationary Engine, December 1, 1855.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I certify that I was severely attacked by diarrh&oelig;a
+after landing in the Crimea. I took a great deal of medicine,
+but nothing served me until I called on Mrs. Seacole.
+She gave me her medicine but once, and I was cured
+effectually.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Wm. Knollys</span>, Sergt., L.T.C.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;This is to certify that Wm. Row, L.T.C, had a
+severe attack of illness, and was in a short time restored to
+health by the prompt attention and medical skill of Mrs.
+Seacole, British Hotel, Spring Hill, Crimea.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Many of my patients belonged to the Land Transport
+and Army Works Corps. The former indeed were in my
+close neighbourhood, and their hospital was nearly opposite
+to the British Hotel. I did all I could for them, and have
+many letters expressive of their gratitude. From them I
+select the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Head-Quarters, Camp, Crimea, June 30, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I have much pleasure in bearing testimony to Mrs.
+Seacole&rsquo;s kindness and attention to the sick of the Railway
+Labourers&rsquo; Army Works Corps and Land Transport Corps
+during the winters of 1854 and 1855.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;She not only, from the knowledge she had acquired in
+the West Indies, was enabled to administer appropriate
+remedies for their ailments, but, what was of as much or
+more importance, she charitably furnished them with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg&nbsp;130]</a></span>
+proper nourishment, which they had no means of obtaining
+except in the hospital, and most of that class had an objection
+to go into hospital, particularly the railway labourers
+and the men of the Army Works Corps.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">John Hall</span>,<br />
+&ldquo;Inspector-General of Hospitals.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>I hope that Mr. P&mdash;&mdash;, of the Army Works Corps, will
+pardon my laying the following letter before the public:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Dear Mrs. Seacole</span>,&mdash;It is with feelings of great
+pleasure that I hear you are safely arrived in England,
+upon which I beg to congratulate you, and return you
+many thanks for your kindness whilst in the Crimea.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The bitter sherry you kindly made up for me was in
+truth a great blessing to both myself and my son, and as I
+expect to go to Bombay shortly, I would feel grateful to
+you if you would favour me with the receipt for making
+it, as it appears to be so very grateful a beverage for weakness
+and bowel complaints in a warm climate. With
+many kind regards, believe me, dear madam, your obliged
+servant,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Samuel P&mdash;&mdash;</span>,<br />
+&ldquo;Late Superintendent Army Works Corps.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here is a certificate from one of the Army Works&rsquo;
+men, to whose case I devoted no little time and trouble:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;I certify that I was labouring under a severe attack
+of diarrh&oelig;a last August, and that I was restored to health
+through the instrumentality and kindness of Mrs. Seacole.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I also certify that my fingers were severely jammed
+whilst at work at Frenchman&rsquo;s Hill, and Mrs. Seacole
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg&nbsp;131]</a></span>
+cured me after three doctors had fruitlessly attempted to
+cure them.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;And I cannot leave the Crimea without testifying to
+the kindness and skill of Mrs. Seacole, and may God
+reward her for it.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">James Wallen</span>,<br />
+&ldquo;5th Division Army Works Corps.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here are three more letters&mdash;and the last I shall print&mdash;from
+a sailor, a soldier, and a civilian:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;This is to certify that Wm. Adams, caulker, of
+H.M.S. &lsquo;Wasp,&rsquo; and belonging to the Royal Naval
+Brigade, had a severe attack of cholera, and was cured in
+a few hours by Mrs. Seacole.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;I certify that I was troubled by a severe inflammation
+of the chest, caused by exposure in the trenches,
+for about four months, and that Mrs. Seacole&rsquo;s medicine
+completely cured me in one month, and may God reward
+her.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Charles Flinn</span>, Sergt. 3rd Co. R.S.M.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Upper Clapton, Middlesex, March 2, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Dear Madam</span>,&mdash;Having been informed by my son, Mr.
+Edward Gill, of St. George&rsquo;s Store, Crimea, of his recent
+illness (jaundice), and of your kind attention and advice
+to him during that illness, and up to the time he was, by
+the blessing of God and your assistance, restored to health,
+permit me, on behalf of myself, my wife, and my family, to
+return you our most grateful thanks, trusting you may be
+spared for many years to come, in health of body and
+vigour of mind, to carry out your benevolent intention.
+Believe me, my dear madam, yours most gratefully,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Edward Gill</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg&nbsp;132]</a></span>
+And now that I have made this a chapter of testimonials,
+I may as well finish them right off, and have done
+with them altogether. I shall trouble the patient reader
+with four more only, which I have not the heart to omit.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Sebastopol, July 1, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Mrs. Seacole was with the British army in the Crimea
+from February, 1855, to this time. This excellent woman
+has frequently exerted herself in the most praiseworthy
+manner in attending wounded men, even in positions of
+great danger, and in assisting sick soldiers by all means in
+her power. In addition, she kept a very good store, and
+supplied us with many comforts at a time we much
+required them.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Wm. P&mdash;&mdash;</span>,<br />
+&ldquo;Adjutant-General of the British Army in the Crimea.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="address">&ldquo;July 1, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I have much pleasure in stating that I am acquainted
+with Mrs. Seacole, and from all that I have seen or heard
+of her, I believe her to be a useful and good person, kind
+and charitable.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;C. A. W&mdash;&mdash;,<br />
+&ldquo;Lt.-Gen. Comm. of Sebastopol.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The third is from the pen of one who at that time was
+more looked to, and better known, than any other man in
+the Crimea. In the 2nd vol. of Russell&rsquo;s &ldquo;Letters from
+the Seat of War,&rdquo; p. 187, is the following entry:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;In the hour of their illness these men (Army Works
+Corps), in common with many others, have found a kind
+and successful physician. Close to the railway, half-way
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg&nbsp;133]</a></span>
+between the Col de Balaclava and Kadikoi, Mrs. Seacole,
+formerly of Kingston and of several other parts of the
+world, such as Panama and Chagres, has pitched her abode&mdash;an
+iron storehouse with wooden sheds and outlying tributaries&mdash;and
+here she doctors and cures all manner of
+men with extraordinary success. She is always in attendance
+near the battle-field to aid the wounded, and has
+earned many a poor fellow&rsquo;s blessings.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yes! I cannot&mdash;referring to that time&mdash;conscientiously
+charge myself with doing less for the men who had only
+thanks to give me, than for the officers whose gratitude
+gave me the necessaries of life. I think I was ever ready
+to turn from the latter to help the former, humble as they
+might be; and they were grateful in their way, and as far
+as they could be. They would buy me apples and other
+fruit at Balaclava, and leave them at my store. One made
+me promise, when I returned home, to send word to his
+Irish mother, who was to send me a cow in token of her
+gratitude for the help I had been to her son. I have a
+book filled with hundreds of the names of those who came
+to me for medicines and other aids; and never a train of
+sick or wounded men from the front passed the British
+Hotel but its hostess was awaiting them to offer comforts
+to the poor fellows, for whose suffering her heart bled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Punch</i>, who allowed my poor name to appear in the
+pages which had welcomed Miss Nightingale home&mdash;<i>Punch</i>,
+that whimsical mouthpiece of some of the noblest
+hearts that ever beat beneath black coats&mdash;shall last of all
+raise its voice, that never yet pleaded an unworthy cause,
+for the Mother Seacole that takes shame to herself for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg&nbsp;134]</a></span>
+speaking thus of the poor part she bore of the trials and
+hardships endured on that distant shore, where Britain&rsquo;s
+best and bravest wrung hardly Sebastopol from the grasp
+of Britain&rsquo;s foe:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;No store she set by the epaulette,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">Be it worsted or gold lace;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For K. C. B. or plain private Smith,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">She had still one pleasant face.<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;And not alone was her kindness shown<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">To the hale and hungry lot<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who drank her grog and ate her prog,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">And paid their honest shot.<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;The sick and sorry can tell the story<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">Of her nursing and dosing deeds;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Regimental M.D. never worked as she,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">In helping sick men&rsquo;s needs.<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;Of such work, God knows, was as much as she chose<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">That dreary winter-tide,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When Death hung o&rsquo;er the damp and pestilent camp,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">And his scythe swung far and wide.<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;She gave her aid to all who prayed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">To hungry and sick and cold;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Open hand and heart, alike ready to part<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">Kind words and acts, and gold.<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<hr style="width: 20%;" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">&ldquo;And&mdash;be the right man in the right place who can&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">The right woman was Dame Seacole.&rdquo;<br /></span>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Reader, now that we have come to the end of this
+chapter, I can say what I have been all anxiety to tell you
+from its beginning. Please look back to <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Chapter VIII.</a>,
+and see how hard the right woman had to struggle to
+convey herself to the right place.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg&nbsp;135]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-top: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 1.5em;">MY CUSTOMERS AT THE BRITISH HOTEL.</p>
+
+
+<p>I shall proceed in this chapter to make the reader acquainted
+with some of the customers of the British Hotel,
+who came there for its creature comforts as well as its
+hostess&rsquo;s medicines when need was; and if he or she should
+be inclined to doubt or should hesitate at accepting my
+experience of Crimean life as entirely credible, I beg that
+individual to refer to the accounts which were given in the
+newspapers of the spring of 1855, and I feel sure they will
+acquit me of any intention to exaggerate. If I were to
+speak of all the nameless horrors of that spring as plainly
+as I could, I should really disgust you; but those I shall
+bring before your notice have all something of the humorous
+in them&mdash;and so it ever is. Time is a great
+restorer, and changes surely the greatest sorrow into a
+pleasing memory. The sun shines this spring-time upon
+green grass that covers the graves of the poor fellows we
+left behind sadly a few short months ago: bright flowers
+grow up upon ruins of batteries and crumbling trenches,
+and cover the sod that presses on many a mouldering token
+of the old time of battle and death. I dare say that, if I
+went to the Crimea now, I should see a smiling landscape,
+instead of the blood-stained scene which I shall ever associate
+with distress and death; and as it is with nature so
+it is with human kind. Whenever I meet those who have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg&nbsp;136]</a></span>
+survived that dreary spring of 1855, we seldom talk about
+its horrors; but remembering its transient gleams of sunshine,
+smile at the fun and good nature that varied its long
+and weary monotony. And now that I am anxious to
+remember all I can that will interest my readers, my
+memory prefers to dwell upon what was pleasing and
+amusing, although the time will never come when it will
+cease to retain most vividly the pathos and woe of those
+dreadful months.</p>
+
+<p>I have said that the winter had not ended when we
+began operations at the British Hotel; and very often, after
+we considered we were fairly under spring&rsquo;s influence, our
+old enemy would come back with an angry roar of wind
+and rain, levelling tents, unroofing huts, destroying roads,
+and handing over May to the command of General Fevrier.
+But the sun fought bravely for us, and in time always dispersed
+the leaden clouds and gilded the iron sky, and made
+us cheerful again. During the end of March, the whole
+of April, and a considerable portion of May, however, the
+army was but a little better off for the advent of spring.
+The military road to the camp was only in progress&mdash;the
+railway only carried ammunition. A few hours&rsquo; rain rendered
+the old road all but impassable, and scarcity often
+existed in the front before Sebastopol, although the
+frightened and anxious Commissariat toiled hard to avert
+such a mishap; so that very often to the British Hotel
+came officers starved out on the heights above us. The
+dandies of Rotten Row would come down riding on sorry
+nags, ready to carry back&mdash;their servants were on duty in
+the trenches&mdash;anything that would be available for dinner.
+A single glance at their personal appearance would suffice
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg&nbsp;137]</a></span>
+to show the hardships of the life they were called upon to
+lead. Before I left London for the seat of war I had been
+more than once to the United Service Club, seeking to gain
+the interest of officers whom I had known in Jamaica; and
+I often thought afterwards of the difference between those
+I saw there trimly shaven, handsomely dressed, with spotless
+linen and dandy air, and these their companions, who
+in England would resemble them. Roughly, warmly
+dressed, with great fur caps, which met their beards and
+left nothing exposed but lips and nose, and not much of
+those; you would easily believe that soap and water were
+luxuries not readily obtainable, that shirts and socks were
+often comforts to dream about rather than possess, and
+that they were familiar with horrors you would shudder to
+hear named. Tell me, reader, can you fancy what the
+want of so simple a thing as a pocket-handkerchief is?
+To put a case&mdash;have you ever gone out for the day without
+one; sat in a draught and caught a sneezing cold in the
+head? You say the question is an unnecessarily unpleasant
+one, and yet what I am about to tell you is true,
+and the sufferer is, I believe, still alive.</p>
+
+<p>An officer had ridden down one day to obtain refreshments
+(this was very early in the spring); some nice
+fowls had just been taken from the spit, and I offered one
+to him. Paper was one of the most hardly obtainable
+luxuries of the Crimea, and I rarely had any to waste upon
+my customers; so I called out, &ldquo;Give me your pocket-handkerchief,
+my son, that I may wrap it up.&rdquo; You see
+we could not be very particular out there; but he smiled
+very bitterly as he answered, &ldquo;Pocket-handkerchief,
+mother&mdash;by Jove! I wish I had one. I tore my last shirt
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg&nbsp;138]</a></span>
+into shreds a fortnight ago, and there&rsquo;s not a bit of it left
+now.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after, a hundred dozen of these useful articles
+came to my store, and I sold them all to officers and men
+very speedily.</p>
+
+<p>For some time, and until I found the task beyond my
+strength, I kept up a capital table at the British Hotel;
+but at last I gave up doing so professedly, and my hungry
+customers had to make shift with whatever was on the
+premises. Fortunately they were not over-dainty, and had
+few antipathies. My duties increased so rapidly, that sometimes
+it was with difficulty that I found time to eat and
+sleep. Could I have obtained good servants, my daily
+labours would have been lightened greatly; but my staff
+never consisted of more than a few boys, two black cooks,
+some Turks&mdash;one of whom, Osman, had enough to do to
+kill and pluck the poultry, while the others looked after the
+stock and killed our goats and sheep&mdash;and as many runaway
+sailors or good-for-noughts in search of employment as we
+could from time to time lay our hands upon; but they
+never found my larder entirely empty. I often used to
+roast a score or so of fowls daily, besides boiling hams and
+tongues. Either these or a slice from a joint of beef or
+mutton you would be pretty sure of finding at your service
+in the larder of the British Hotel.</p>
+
+<p>Would you like, gentle reader, to know what other
+things suggestive of home and its comforts your relatives
+and friends in the Crimea could obtain from the hostess of
+Spring Hill? I do not tell you that the following articles
+were all obtainable at the commencement, but many were.
+The time was indeed when, had you asked me for mock
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg&nbsp;139]</a></span>
+turtle and venison, you should have had them, preserved
+in tins, but that was when the Crimea was flooded with
+plenty&mdash;too late, alas! to save many whom want had
+killed; but had you been doing your best to batter Sebastopol
+about the ears of the Russians in the spring and
+summer of the year before last, the firm of Seacole and
+Day would have been happy to have served you with (I
+omit ordinary things) linen and hosiery, saddlery, caps,
+boots and shoes, for the outer man; and for the inner
+man, meat and soups of every variety in tins (you can
+scarcely conceive how disgusted we all became at last with
+preserved provisions); salmon, lobsters, and oysters, also in
+tins, which last beaten up into fritters, with onions, butter,
+eggs, pepper, and salt, were very good; game, wild fowl,
+vegetables, also preserved, eggs, sardines, curry powder,
+cigars, tobacco, snuff, cigarette papers, tea, coffee, tooth
+powder, and currant jelly. When cargoes came in from
+Constantinople, we bought great supplies of potatoes,
+carrots, turnips, and greens. Ah! what a rush there used
+to be for the greens. You might sometimes get hot rolls;
+but, generally speaking, I bought the Turkish bread
+(<i>ekmek</i>), baked at Balaclava.</p>
+
+<p>Or had you felt too ill to partake of your rough camp
+fare, coarsely cooked by a soldier cook, who, unlike the
+French, could turn his hand to few things but fighting,
+and had ridden down that muddy road to the Col, to see
+what Mother Seacole could give you for dinner, the
+chances were you would have found a good joint of
+mutton, not of the fattest, forsooth; for in such miserable
+condition were the poor beasts landed, that once, when
+there came an urgent order from head-quarters for twenty-five
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg&nbsp;140]</a></span>
+pounds of mutton, we had to cut up one sheep and a
+half to provide the quantity; or you would have stumbled
+upon something curried, or upon a good Irish stew, nice
+and hot, with plenty of onions and potatoes, or upon some
+capital meat-pies. I found the preserved meats were
+better relished cooked in this fashion, and well doctored
+with stimulants. Before long I grew as familiar with the
+mysteries of seasoning as any London pieman, and could
+accommodate myself to the requirements of the seasons as
+readily. Or had there been nothing better, you might
+have gone further and fared on worse fare than one of my
+Welch rabbits, for the manufacture of which I became so
+famous. And had you been fortunate enough to have
+visited the British Hotel upon rice-pudding day, I warrant
+you would have ridden back to your hut with kind
+thoughts of Mother Seacole&rsquo;s endeavours to give you a
+taste of home. If I had nothing else to be proud of, I
+think my rice puddings, made without milk, upon the
+high road to Sebastopol, would have gained me a reputation.
+What a shout there used to be when I came out
+of my little caboose, hot and flurried, and called out, &ldquo;Rice-pudding
+day, my sons.&rdquo; Some of them were baked in
+large shallow pans, for the men and the sick, who always
+said that it reminded them of home. You would scarcely
+expect to finish up your dinner with pastry, but very often
+you would have found a good stock of it in my larder.
+Whenever I had a few leisure moments, I used to wash
+my hands, roll up my sleeves and roll out pastry. Very
+often I was interrupted to dispense medicines; but if the
+tarts had a flavour of senna, or the puddings tasted
+of rhubarb, it never interfered with their consumption.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg&nbsp;141]</a></span>
+I declare I never heard or read of an army so partial to
+pastry as that British army before Sebastopol; while I had
+a reputation for my sponge-cakes that any pastry-cook in
+London, even Gunter, might have been proud of. The
+officers, full of fun and high spirits, used to crowd into the
+little kitchen, and, despite all my remonstrances, which
+were not always confined to words, for they made me
+frantic sometimes, and an iron spoon is a tempting weapon,
+would carry off the tarts hot from the oven, while the
+good-for-nothing black cooks, instead of lending me their
+aid, would stand by and laugh with all their teeth. And
+when the hot season commenced, the crowds that came to
+the British Hotel for my claret and cider cups, and other
+cooling summer drinks, were very complimentary in their
+expressions of appreciation of my skill.</p>
+
+<p>Now, supposing that you had made a hearty dinner
+and were thinking of starting homeward&mdash;if I can use so
+pleasant a term in reference to your cheerless quarters&mdash;it
+was very natural that you should be anxious to carry back
+something to your hut. Perhaps you expected to be sent
+into the trenches (many a supper cooked by me has been
+consumed in those fearful trenches by brave men, who
+could eat it with keen appetites while the messengers of
+death were speeding around them); or perhaps you had
+planned a little dinner-party, and wanted to give your
+friends something better than their ordinary fare. Anyhow,
+you would in all probability have some good reason
+for returning laden with comforts and necessaries from
+Spring Hill. You would not be very particular about carrying
+them. You might have been a great swell at home,
+where you would have shuddered if Bond Street had seen
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg&nbsp;142]</a></span>
+you carrying a parcel no larger than your card-case; but
+those considerations rarely troubled you here. Very likely,
+your servant was lying crouched in a rifle pit, having
+&ldquo;pots&rdquo; at the Russians, or keeping watch and ward in
+the long lines of trenches, or, stripped to his shirt, shovelling
+powder and shot into the great guns, whose steady
+roar broke the evening&rsquo;s calm. So if you did not wait
+upon yourself, you would stand a very fair chance of being
+starved. But you would open your knapsack, if you had
+brought one, for me to fill it with potatoes, and halloo out,
+&ldquo;Never mind, mother!&rdquo; although the gravy from the fowls
+on your saddle before you was soaking through the little
+modicum of paper which was all I could afford you. So
+laden, you would cheerfully start up the hill of mud hutward;
+and well for you if you did not come to grief on that
+treacherous sea of mud that lay swelling between the Col
+and your destination. Many a mishap, ludicrous but for
+their consequences, happened on it. I remember a young
+officer coming down one day just in time to carry off my
+last fowl and meat pie. Before he had gone far, the horse
+so floundered in the mud that the saddle-girths broke, and
+while the pies rolled into the clayey soil in one direction,
+the fowl flew in another. To make matters worse, the
+horse, in his efforts to extricate himself, did for them
+entirely; and in terrible distress, the poor fellow came
+back for me to set him up again. I shook my head for a
+long time, but at last, after he had over and over again
+urged upon me pathetically that he had two fellows coming
+to dine with him at six, and nothing in the world in his
+hut but salt pork, I resigned a plump fowl which I had
+kept back for my own dinner. Off he started again, but
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg&nbsp;143]</a></span>
+soon came back with, &ldquo;Oh, mother, I forgot all about the
+potatoes; they&rsquo;ve all rolled out upon that&nbsp;&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;road; you
+must fill my bag again.&rdquo; We all laughed heartily at him,
+but this state of things <em>had</em> been rather tragical.</p>
+
+<p>Before I bring this chapter to a close, I should like,
+with the reader&rsquo;s permission, to describe one day of my life
+in the Crimea. They were all pretty much alike, except
+when there was fighting upon a large scale going on, and
+duty called me to the field. I was generally up and busy
+by daybreak, sometimes earlier, for in the summer my
+bed had no attractions strong enough to bind me to it after
+four. There was plenty to do before the work of the day
+began. There was the poultry to pluck and prepare for
+cooking, which had been killed on the previous night; the
+joints to be cut up and got ready for the same purpose;
+the medicines to be mixed; the store to be swept and
+cleaned. Of very great importance, with all these things
+to see after, were the few hours of quiet before the road
+became alive with travellers. By seven o&rsquo;clock the morning
+coffee would be ready, hot and refreshing, and eagerly
+sought for by the officers of the Army Works Corps engaged
+upon making the great high-road to the front, and the
+Commissariat and Land Transport men carrying stores from
+Balaclava to the heights. There was always a great
+demand for coffee by those who knew its refreshing and
+strengthening qualities, milk I could not give them (I
+kept it in tins for special use); but they had it hot and
+strong, with plenty of sugar and a slice of butter, which I
+recommend as a capital substitute for milk. From that
+time until nine, officers on duty in the neighbourhood, or
+passing by, would look in for breakfast, and about half-past
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg&nbsp;144]</a></span>
+nine my sick patients began to show themselves. In
+the following hour they came thickly, and sometimes it
+was past twelve before I had got through this duty. They
+came with every variety of suffering and disease; the cases
+I most disliked were the frostbitten fingers and feet in the
+winter. That over, there was the hospital to visit across
+the way, which was sometimes overcrowded with patients.
+I was a good deal there, and as often as possible would
+take over books and papers, which I used to borrow for that
+purpose from my friends and the officers I knew. Once,
+a great packet of tracts was sent to me from Plymouth
+anonymously, and these I distributed in the same manner.
+By this time the day&rsquo;s news had come from the front, and
+perhaps among the casualties over night there would be
+some one wounded or sick, who would be glad to see me
+ride up with the comforts he stood most in need of; and
+during the day, if any accident occurred in the neighbourhood
+or on the road near the British Hotel, the men
+generally brought the sufferer there, whence, if the hurt
+was serious, he would be transferred to the hospital of the
+Land Transport opposite. I used not always to stand upon
+too much ceremony when I heard of sick or wounded
+officers in the front. Sometimes their friends would ask me
+to go to them, though very often I waited for no hint, but
+took the chance of meeting with a kind reception. I used
+to think of their relatives at home, who would have given
+so much to possess my privilege; and more than one officer
+have I startled by appearing before him, and telling him
+abruptly that he must have a mother, wife, or sister at
+home whom he missed, and that he must therefore be glad
+of some woman to take their place.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg&nbsp;145]</a></span>
+Until evening the store would be filled with customers
+wanting stores, dinners, and luncheons; loungers and
+idlers seeking conversation and amusement; and at eight
+o&rsquo;clock the curtain descended on that day&rsquo;s labour, and I
+could sit down and eat at leisure. It was no easy thing to
+clear the store, canteen, and yards; but we determined upon
+adhering to the rule that nothing should be sold after that
+hour, and succeeded. Any one who came after that time,
+came simply as a friend. There could be no necessity for
+any one, except on extraordinary occasions, when the rule
+could be relaxed, to purchase things after eight o&rsquo;clock.
+And drunkenness or excess were discouraged at Spring Hill
+in every way; indeed, my few unpleasant scenes arose
+chiefly from my refusing to sell liquor where I saw it was
+wanted to be abused. I could appeal with a clear conscience
+to all who knew me there, to back my assertion
+that I neither permitted drunkenness among the men nor
+gambling among the officers. Whatever happened elsewhere,
+intoxication, cards, and dice were never to be seen,
+within the precincts of the British Hotel. My regulations
+were well known, and a kind-hearted officer of the Royals,
+who was much there, and who permitted me to use a familiarity
+towards him which I trust I never abused, undertook
+to be my Provost-marshal, but his duties were very
+light.</p>
+
+<p>At first we kept our store open on Sunday from sheer
+necessity, but after a little while, when stores in abundance
+were established at Kadikoi and elsewhere, and the absolute
+necessity no longer existed, Sunday became a day of most
+grateful rest at Spring Hill. This step also met with opposition
+from the men; but again we were determined, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg&nbsp;146]</a></span>
+again we triumphed. I am sure we needed rest. I have
+often wondered since how it was that I never fell ill or
+came home &ldquo;on urgent private affairs.&rdquo; I am afraid that
+I was not sufficiently thankful to the Providence which
+gave me strength to carry out the work I loved so well, and
+felt so happy in being engaged upon; but although I
+never had a week&rsquo;s illness during my campaign, the labour,
+anxiety, and perhaps the few trials that followed it, have
+told upon me. I have never felt since that time the strong
+and hearty woman that I was when I braved with impunity
+the pestilence of Navy Bay and Cruces. It would
+kill me easily now.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF WAR&mdash;ADVANCE OF MY TURKISH FRIENDS
+ON KAMARA&mdash;VISITORS TO THE CAMP&mdash;MISS NIGHTINGALE&mdash;MONS.
+SOYER AND THE CHOLERA&mdash;SUMMER IN THE CRIMEA&mdash;&ldquo;THIRSTY
+SOULS&rdquo;&mdash;DEATH BUSY IN THE TRENCHES.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>In the last three chapters, I have attempted, without any
+consideration of dates, to give my readers some idea of
+my life in the Crimea. I am fully aware that I have jumbled
+up events strangely, talking in the same page, and even
+sentence, of events which occurred at different times; but I
+have three excuses to offer for my unhistorical inexactness.
+In the first place, my memory is far from trustworthy, and
+I kept no written diary; in the second place, the reader
+must have had more than enough of journals and chronicles
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg&nbsp;147]</a></span>
+of Crimean life, and I am only the historian of Spring
+Hill; and in the third place, unless I am allowed to tell
+the story of my life in my own way, I cannot tell it at all.</p>
+
+<p>I shall now endeavour to describe my out-of-door life
+as much as possible, and write of those great events in the
+field of which I was a humble witness. But I shall
+continue to speak from my own experience simply; and if
+the reader should be surprised at my leaving any memorable
+action of the army unnoticed, he may be sure that it
+is because I was mixing medicines or making good things
+in the kitchen of the British Hotel, and first heard the
+particulars of it, perhaps, from the newspapers which came
+from home. My readers must know, too, that they were
+much more familiar with the history of the camp at their
+own firesides, than we who lived in it. Just as a spectator
+seeing one of the battles from a hill, as I did the Tchernaya,
+knows more about it than the combatant in the valley
+below, who only thinks of the enemy whom it is his immediate
+duty to repel; so you, through the valuable aid of the
+cleverest man in the whole camp, read in the <i>Times&rsquo;</i> columns
+the details of that great campaign, while we, the
+actors in it, had enough to do to discharge our own duties
+well, and rarely concerned ourselves in what seemed of
+such importance to you. And so very often a desperate
+skirmish or hard-fought action, the news of which created
+so much sensation in England, was but little regarded at
+Spring Hill.</p>
+
+<p>My first experience of battle was pleasant enough.
+Before we had been long at Spring Hill, Omar Pasha got
+something for his Turks to do, and one fine morning they
+were marched away towards the Russian outposts on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg&nbsp;148]</a></span>
+road to Baidar. I accompanied them on horseback, and enjoyed
+the sight amazingly. English and French cavalry
+preceded the Turkish infantry over the plain yet full of
+memorials of the terrible Light Cavalry charge a few
+months before; and while one detachment of the Turks
+made a reconnaissance to the right of the Tchernaya, another
+pushed their way up the hill, towards Kamara, driving
+in the Russian outposts, after what seemed but a
+slight resistance. It was very pretty to see them advance,
+and to watch how every now and then little clouds of
+white smoke puffed up from behind bushes and the crests
+of hills, and were answered by similar puffs from the long
+line of busy skirmishers that preceded the main body.
+This was my first experience of actual battle, and I felt
+that strange excitement which I do not remember on future
+occasions, coupled with an earnest longing to see more of
+warfare, and to share in its hazards. It was not long before
+my wish was gratified.</p>
+
+<p>I do not know much of the second bombardment of
+Sebastopol in the month of April, although I was as assiduous
+as I could be in my attendance at Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill.
+I could judge of its severity by the long trains of wounded
+which passed the British Hotel. I had a stretcher laid
+near the door, and very often a poor fellow was laid upon
+it, outwearied by the terrible conveyance from the front.</p>
+
+<p>After this unsuccessful bombardment, it seemed to us
+that there was a sudden lull in the progress of the siege;
+and other things began to interest us. There were several
+arrivals to talk over. Miss Nightingale came to supervise
+the Balaclava hospitals, and, before long, she had practical
+experience of Crimean fever. After her, came the Duke
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg&nbsp;149]</a></span>
+of Newcastle, and the great high priest of the mysteries
+of cookery, Mons. Alexis Soyer. He was often at Spring
+Hill, with the most smiling of faces and in the most gorgeous
+of irregular uniforms, and never failed to praise my soups
+and dainties. I always flattered myself that I was his
+match, and with our West Indian dishes could of course
+beat him hollow, and more than once I challenged him to
+a trial of skill; but the gallant Frenchman only shrugged
+his shoulders, and disclaimed my challenge with many
+flourishes of his jewelled hands, declaring that Madame
+proposed a contest where victory would cost him his reputation
+for gallantry, and be more disastrous than defeat.
+And all because I was a woman, forsooth. What nonsense
+to talk like that, when I was doing the work of half a dozen
+men. Then he would laugh and declare that, when our
+campaigns were over, we would render rivalry impossible,
+by combining to open the first restaurant in Europe. There
+was always fun in the store when the good-natured Frenchman
+was there.</p>
+
+<p>One dark, tempestuous night, I was knocked up by the
+arrival of other visitors. These were the first regiment of
+Sardinian Grenadiers, who, benighted on their way to the
+position assigned them, remained at Spring Hill until the
+morning. We soon turned out our staff, and lighted up
+the store, and entertained the officers as well as we could
+inside, while the soldiers bivouacked in the yards around.
+Not a single thing was stolen or disturbed that night,
+although they had many opportunities. We all admired
+and liked the Sardinians; they were honest, well-disciplined
+fellows, and I wish there had been no worse men
+or soldiers in the Crimea.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg&nbsp;150]</a></span>
+As the season advanced many visitors came to the
+Crimea from all parts of the world, and many of them were
+glad to make Spring Hill their head-quarters. We should
+have been better off if some of them had spared us this
+compliment. A Captain St. Clair, for instance&mdash;who could
+doubt any one with such a name?&mdash;stayed some time with
+us, had the best of everything, and paid us most honourably
+with one bill upon his agents, while we cashed another to
+provide him with money for his homeward route. He was
+an accomplished fellow, and I really liked him; but, unfortunately
+for us, he was a swindler.</p>
+
+<p>I saw much of another visitor to the camp in the
+Crimea&mdash;an old acquaintance of mine with whom I had
+had many a hard bout in past times&mdash;the cholera. There
+were many cases in the hospital of the Land Transport
+Corps opposite, and I prescribed for many others personally.
+The raki sold in too many of the stores in Balaclava
+and Kadikoi was most pernicious; and although the
+authorities forbade the sutlers to sell it, under heavy penalties,
+it found its way into the camp in large quantities.</p>
+
+<p>During May, and while preparations were being made
+for the third great bombardment of the ill-fated city,
+summer broke beautifully, and the weather, chequered
+occasionally by fitful intervals of cold and rain, made us
+all cheerful. You would scarcely have believed that the
+happy, good-humoured, and jocular visitors to the British
+Hotel were the same men who had a few weeks before
+ridden gloomily through the muddy road to its door. It
+was a period of relaxation, and they all enjoyed it.
+Amusement was the order of the day. Races, dog-hunts,
+cricket-matches, and dinner-parties were eagerly indulged
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg&nbsp;151]</a></span>
+in, and in all I could be of use to provide the good cheer
+which was so essential a part of these entertainments; and
+when the warm weather came in all its intensity, and I
+took to manufacturing cooling beverages for my friends and
+customers, my store was always full. To please all was
+somewhat difficult, and occasionally some of them were
+scarcely so polite as they should have been to a perplexed
+hostess, who could scarcely be expected to remember that
+Lieutenant A. had bespoken his sangaree an instant before
+Captain B. and his friends had ordered their claret cup.</p>
+
+<p>In anticipation of the hot weather, I had laid in a large
+stock of raspberry vinegar, which, properly managed, helps
+to make a pleasant drink; and there was a great demand
+for sangaree, claret, and cider cups, the cups being battered
+pewter pots. Would you like, reader, to know my recipe
+for the favourite claret cup? It is simple enough. Claret,
+water, lemon-peel, sugar, nutmeg, and&mdash;ice&mdash;yes, ice, but
+not often and not for long, for the eager officers soon made
+an end of it. Sometimes there were dinner-parties at
+Spring Hill, but of these more hereafter. At one of the
+earliest, when the <i>Times</i> correspondent was to be present,
+I rode down to Kadikoi, bought some calico and cut it up
+into table napkins. They all laughed very heartily, and
+thought perhaps of a few weeks previously, when every
+available piece of linen in the camp would have been
+snapped up for pocket-handkerchiefs.</p>
+
+<p>But the reader must not forget that all this time,
+although there might be only a few short and sullen roars
+of the great guns by day, few nights passed without some
+fighting in the trenches; and very often the news of the
+morning would be that one or other of those I knew had
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg&nbsp;152]</a></span>
+fallen. These tidings often saddened me, and when I
+awoke in the night and heard the thunder of the guns
+fiercer than usual, I have quite dreaded the dawn which
+might usher in bad news.</p>
+
+<p>The deaths in the trenches touched me deeply, perhaps
+for this reason. It was very usual, when a young officer
+was ordered into the trenches, for him to ride down to
+Spring Hill to dine, or obtain something more than his
+ordinary fare to brighten his weary hours in those fearful
+ditches. They seldom failed on these occasions to shake
+me by the hand at parting, and sometimes would say,
+&ldquo;You see, Mrs. Seacole, I can&rsquo;t say good-bye to the dear
+ones at home, so I&rsquo;ll bid you good-bye for them. Perhaps
+you&rsquo;ll see them some day, and if the Russians should
+knock me over, mother, just tell them I thought of them
+all&mdash;will you?&rdquo; And although all this might be said in a
+light-hearted manner, it was rather solemn. I felt it to
+be so, for I never failed (although who was I, that I should
+preach?) to say something about God&rsquo;s providence and
+relying upon it; and they were very good. No army of
+parsons could be much better than my sons. They would
+listen very gravely, and shake me by the hand again, while
+I felt that there was nothing in the world I would not do
+for them. Then very often the men would say, &ldquo;I&rsquo;m
+going in with my master to-night, Mrs. Seacole; come and
+look after him, if he&rsquo;s hit;&rdquo; and so often as this happened
+I would pass the night restlessly, awaiting with anxiety
+the morning, and yet dreading to hear the news it held in
+store for me. I used to think it was like having a large
+family of children ill with fever, and dreading to hear
+which one had passed away in the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg&nbsp;153]</a></span>
+And as often as the bad news came, I thought it my
+duty to ride up to the hut of the sufferer and do my
+woman&rsquo;s work. But I felt it deeply. How could it be
+otherwise? There was one poor boy in the Artillery, with
+blue eyes and light golden hair, whom I nursed through a
+long and weary sickness, borne with all a man&rsquo;s spirit,
+and whom I grew to love like a fond old-fashioned mother.
+I thought if ever angels watched over any life, they would
+shelter his; but one day, but a short time after he had left
+his sick-bed, he was struck down on his battery, working
+like a young hero. It was a long time before I could
+banish from my mind the thought of him as I saw him
+last, the yellow hair, stiff and stained with his life-blood,
+and the blue eyes closed in the sleep of death. Of course,
+I saw him buried, as I did poor H&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;V&mdash;&mdash;, my old
+Jamaica friend, whose kind face was so familiar to me of
+old. Another good friend I mourned bitterly&mdash;Captain
+B&mdash;&mdash;, of the Coldstreams&mdash;a great cricketer. He had been
+with me on the previous evening, had seemed dull, but
+had supped at my store, and on the following morning a
+brother officer told me he was shot dead while setting his
+pickets, which made me ill and unfit for work for the whole
+day. Mind you, a day was a long time to give to sorrow
+in the Crimea.</p>
+
+<p>I could give many other similar instances, but why
+should I sadden myself or my readers? Others have
+described the horrors of those fatal trenches; but their real
+history has never been written, and perhaps it is as well
+that so harrowing a tale should be left in oblivion. Such
+anecdotes as the following were very current in the Camp,
+but I have no means of answering for its truth. Two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg&nbsp;154]</a></span>
+sergeants met in the trenches, who had been schoolmates in
+their youth; years had passed since they set out for the
+battle of life by different roads, and now they met again
+under the fire of a common enemy. With one impulse
+they started forward to exchange the hearty hand-shake
+and the mutual greetings, and while their hands were still
+clasped, a chance shot killed both.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>UNDER FIRE ON THE FATAL 18TH OF JUNE&mdash;BEFORE THE REDAN&mdash;AT
+THE CEMETERY&mdash;THE ARMISTICE&mdash;DEATHS AT HEAD-QUARTERS&mdash;DEPRESSION
+IN THE CAMP&mdash;PLENTY IN THE CRIMEA&mdash;THE PLAGUE
+OF FLIES&mdash;UNDER FIRE AT THE BATTLE OF THE TCHERNAYA&mdash;WORK
+ON THE FIELD&mdash;MY PATIENTS.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Before I left the Crimea to return to England, the Adjutant-General
+of the British Army gave me a testimonial,
+which the reader has already read in <a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">Chapter XIV.</a>, in
+which he stated that I had &ldquo;frequently exerted myself in
+the most praiseworthy manner in attending wounded men,
+even in positions of great danger.&rdquo; The simple meaning of
+this sentence is that, in the discharge of what I conceived
+to be my duty, I was frequently &ldquo;under fire.&rdquo; Now I
+am far from wishing to speak of this fact with any vanity
+or pride, because, after all, one soon gets accustomed to it,
+and it fails at last to create more than temporary uneasiness.
+Indeed, after Sebastopol was ours, you might often
+see officers and men strolling coolly, even leisurely, across
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg&nbsp;155]</a></span>
+and along those streets, exposed to the enemy&rsquo;s fire, when
+a little haste would have carried them beyond the reach of
+danger. The truth was, I believe, they had grown so
+habituated to being in peril from shot or shell, that they
+rather liked the sensation, and found it difficult to get on
+without a little gratuitous excitement and danger.</p>
+
+<p>But putting aside the great engagements, where I
+underwent considerable peril, one could scarcely move
+about the various camps without some risk. The Russians
+had, it seemed, sunk great ships&rsquo; guns into the earth, from
+which they fired shot and shell at a very long range, which
+came tumbling and plunging between, and sometimes into
+the huts and tents, in a very unwieldy and generally harmless
+fashion. Once when I was riding through the camp
+of the Rifles, a round shot came plunging towards me, and
+before I or the horse had time to be much frightened, the
+ugly fellow buried itself in the earth, with a heavy
+&ldquo;thud,&rdquo; a little distance in front of us.</p>
+
+<p>In the first week of June, the third bombardment of
+Sebastopol opened, and the Spring Hill visitors had plenty
+to talk about. Many were the surmises as to when the
+assault would take place, of the success of which nobody
+entertained a doubt. Somehow or other, important secrets
+oozed out in various parts of the camp, which the Russians
+would have given much to know, and one of these places
+was the British Hotel. Some such whispers were afloat
+on the evening of Sunday the 17th of June, and excited
+me strangely. Any stranger not in my secret would have
+considered that my conduct fully justified my partner,
+Mr. Day, in sending me home, as better fitted for a cell in
+Bedlam than the charge of an hotel in the Crimea. I
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg&nbsp;156]</a></span>
+never remember feeling more excited or more restless than
+upon that day, and no sooner had night fairly closed in upon
+us than, instead of making preparations for bed, this same
+stranger would have seen me wrap up&mdash;the nights were
+still cold&mdash;and start off for a long walk to Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill,
+three miles and a half away. I stayed there until past
+midnight, but when I returned home, there was no rest for
+me; for I had found out that, in the stillness of the night,
+many regiments were marching down to the trenches, and
+that the dawn of day would be the signal that should let
+them loose upon the Russians. The few hours still left
+before daybreak, were made the most of at Spring Hill.
+We were all busily occupied in cutting bread and cheese
+and sandwiches, packing up fowls, tongues, and ham, wine
+and spirits, while I carefully filled the large bag, which I
+always carried into the field slung across my shoulder,
+with lint, bandages, needles, thread, and medicines; and
+soon after daybreak everything was ready packed upon two
+mules, in charge of my steadiest lad, and, I leading the
+way on horseback, the little cavalcade left the British
+Hotel before the sun of the fatal 18th of June had been
+many hours old.</p>
+
+<p>It was not long before our progress was arrested by the
+cavalry pickets closely stationed to stop all stragglers and
+spectators from reaching the scene of action. But after a
+Blight parley and when they found out who I was, and
+how I was prepared for the day&rsquo;s work, the men raised a
+shout for me, and, with their officer&rsquo;s sanction, allowed me
+to pass. So I reached Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill crowded with non-combatants,
+and, leaving there the mules, loaded myself
+with what provisions I could carry, and&mdash;it was a work of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg&nbsp;157]</a></span>
+no little difficulty and danger&mdash;succeeded in reaching the
+reserves of Sir Henry Barnard&rsquo;s division, which was to
+have stormed something, I forget what; but when they
+found the attack upon the Redan was a failure, very wisely
+abstained. Here I found plenty of officers who soon relieved
+me of my refreshments, and some wounded men
+who found the contents of my bag very useful. At length
+I made my way to the Woronzoff Road, where the temporary
+hospital had been erected, and there I found the
+doctors hard enough at work, and hastened to help them
+as best I could. I bound up the wounds and ministered
+to the wants of a good many, and stayed there some considerable
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the way, and even here, I was &ldquo;under fire.&rdquo;
+More frequently than was agreeable, a shot would come
+ploughing up the ground and raising clouds of dust, or a
+shell whizz above us. Upon these occasions those around
+would cry out, &ldquo;Lie down, mother, lie down!&rdquo; and with
+very undignified and unladylike haste I had to embrace
+the earth, and remain there until the same voices would
+laughingly assure me that the danger was over, or one,
+more thoughtful than the rest, would come to give me a
+helping hand, and hope that the old lady was neither hit
+nor frightened. Several times in my wanderings on that
+eventful day, of which I confess to have a most confused
+remembrance, only knowing that I looked after many
+wounded men, I was ordered back, but each time my
+bag of bandages and comforts for the wounded proved my
+passport. While at the hospital I was chiefly of use
+looking after those, who, either from lack of hands or
+because their hurts were less serious, had to wait, pained
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg&nbsp;158]</a></span>
+and weary, until the kind-hearted doctors&mdash;who, however,
+<em>looked</em> more like murderers&mdash;could attend to them. And
+the grateful words and smile which rewarded me for
+binding up a wound or giving cooling drink was a pleasure
+worth risking life for at any time. It was here that I received
+my only wound during the campaign. I threw
+myself too hastily on the ground, in obedience to the command
+of those around me, to escape a threatening shell, and
+fell heavily on the thumb of my right hand, dislocating it.
+It was bound up on the spot and did not inconvenience me
+much, but it has never returned to its proper shape.</p>
+
+<p>After this, first washing my hands in some sherry from
+lack of water, I went back to Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill, where I
+found my horse, and heard that the good-for-nothing lad,
+either frightened or tired of waiting, had gone away with
+the mules. I had to ride three miles after him, and then
+the only satisfaction I had arose from laying my horse-whip
+about his shoulders. After that, working my way
+round, how I can scarcely tell, I got to the extreme left
+attack, where General Eyre&rsquo;s division had been hotly engaged
+all day, and had suffered severely. I left my horse in
+charge of some men, and with no little difficulty, and at
+no little risk, crept down to where some wounded men lay,
+with whom I left refreshments. And then&mdash;it was growing
+late&mdash;I started for Spring Hill, where I heard all about
+the events of the luckless day from those who had seen
+them from posts of safety, while I, who had been in the
+midst of it all day, knew so little.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day some Irishmen of the 8th Royals
+brought me, in token of my having been among them, a
+Russian woman&rsquo;s dress and a poor pigeon, which they had
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg&nbsp;159]</a></span>
+brought away from one of the houses in the suburb where
+their regiment suffered so severely.</p>
+
+<p>But that evening of the 18th of June was a sad one,
+and the news that came in of those that had fallen were
+most heartrending. Both the leaders, who fell so gloriously
+before the Redan, had been very good to the mistress of
+Spring Hill. But a few days before the 18th, Col. Y&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;had
+merrily declared that I should have a silver salver to
+hand about things upon, instead of the poor shabby one
+I had been reduced to; while Sir John C&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;had been my
+kind patron for some years. It was in my house in Jamaica
+that Lady C&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;had once lodged when her husband
+was stationed in that island. And when the recall home
+came, Lady C&mdash;&mdash;, who, had she been like most women,
+would have shrunk from any exertion, declared that she
+was a soldier&rsquo;s wife and would accompany him. Fortunately
+the &ldquo;Blenheim&rdquo; was detained in the roads a few
+days after the time expected for her departure, and I put
+into its father&rsquo;s arms a little Scotchman, born within sight
+of the blue hills of Jamaica. And yet with these at home,
+the brave general&mdash;as I read in the <i>Times</i> a few weeks
+later&mdash;displayed a courage amounting to rashness, and,
+sending away his aides-de-camp, rushed on to a certain death.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, directly I heard of the armistice,
+I hastened to the scene of action, anxious to see once more
+the faces of those who had been so kind to me in life.
+That battle-field was a fearful sight for a woman to
+witness, and if I do not pray God that I may never see its
+like again, it is because I wish to be useful all my life,
+and it is in scenes of horror and distress that a woman can
+do so much. It was late in the afternoon, not, I think,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg&nbsp;160]</a></span>
+until half-past four, that the Russians brought over the
+bodies of the two leaders of yesterday&rsquo;s assault. They
+had stripped Sir John of epaulettes, sword, and boots.
+Ah! how my heart felt for those at home who would so
+soon hear of this day&rsquo;s fatal work. It was on the following
+day, I think, that I saw them bury him near Cathcart&rsquo;s
+Hill, where his tent had been pitched. If I had been in
+the least humour for what was ludicrous, the looks and
+curiosity of the Russians who saw me during the armistice
+would have afforded me considerable amusement. I
+wonder what rank they assigned me.</p>
+
+<p>How true it is, as somebody has said, that misfortunes
+never come singly. N.B. Pleasures often do. For while
+we were dull enough at this great trouble, we had cholera
+raging around us, carrying off its victims of all ranks.
+There was great distress in the Sardinian camp on this
+account, and I soon lost another good customer, General
+E&mdash;&mdash;, carried off by the same terrible plague. Before
+Mrs. E&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;left the Crimea, she sent several useful things,
+kept back from the sale of the general&rsquo;s effects. At this
+sale I wanted to buy a useful waggon, but did not like to
+bid against Lord W&mdash;&mdash;, who purchased it; but (I tell
+this anecdote to show how kind they all were to me) when
+his lordship heard of this he sent it over to Spring Hill,
+with a message that it was mine for a far lower price than
+he had given for it. And since my return home I have
+had to thank the same nobleman for still greater favours.
+But who, indeed, has not been kind to me?</p>
+
+<p>Within a week after General E&mdash;&mdash;&rsquo;s death, a still
+greater calamity happened. Lord Raglan died&mdash;that great
+soldier who had such iron courage, with the gentle smile
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg&nbsp;161]</a></span>
+and kind word that always show the good man. I was
+familiar enough with his person; for, although people did
+not know it in England, he was continually in the saddle
+looking after his suffering men, and scheming plans for
+their benefit. And the humblest soldier will remember
+that, let who might look stern and distant, the first man
+in the British army ever had a kind word to give him.</p>
+
+<p>During the time he was ill I was at head-quarters
+several times, and once his servants allowed me to peep
+into the room where their master lay. I do not think they
+knew that he was dying, but they seemed very sad and low&mdash;far
+more so than he for whom they feared. And on the
+day of his funeral I was there again. I never saw such
+heartfelt gloom as that which brooded on the faces of his
+attendants; but it was good to hear how they all, even the
+humblest, had some kind memory of the great general
+whom Providence had called from his post at such a season
+of danger and distress. And once again they let me into
+the room in which the coffin lay, and I timidly stretched
+out my hand and touched a corner of the union-jack
+which lay upon it; and then I watched it wind its way
+through the long lines of soldiery towards Kamiesch, while,
+ever and anon, the guns thundered forth in sorrow, not in
+anger. And for days after I could not help thinking of
+the &ldquo;Caradoc,&rdquo; which was ploughing its way through the
+sunny sea with its sad burden.</p>
+
+<p>It was not in the nature of the British army to remain
+long dull, and before very long we went on gaily as ever,
+forgetting the terrible 18th of June, or only remembering
+it to look forward to the next assault compensating for all.
+And once more the British Hotel was filled with a busy
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg&nbsp;162]</a></span>
+throng, and laughter and fun re-echoed through its iron
+rafters. Nothing of consequence was done in the front for
+weeks, possibly because Mr. Russell was taking holiday,
+and would not return until August.</p>
+
+<p>About this time the stores of the British Hotel were well
+filled, not only with every conceivable necessary of life,
+but with many of its most expensive luxuries. It was at
+this period that you could have asked for few things that I
+could not have supplied you with on the spot, or obtained
+for you, if you had a little patience and did not mind a
+few weeks&rsquo; delay. Not only Spring Hill and Kadikoi,
+which&mdash;a poor place enough when we came&mdash;had grown
+into a town of stores, and had its market regulations and
+police, but the whole camp shared in this unusual plenty.
+Even the men could afford to despise salt meat and pork,
+and fed as well, if not better, than if they had been in
+quarters at home. And there were coffee-houses and
+places of amusement opened at Balaclava, and balls given
+in some of them, which raised my temper to an unwonted
+pitch, because I foresaw the dangers which they had for
+the young and impulsive; and sure enough they cost several
+officers their commissions. Right glad was I one day
+when the great purifier, Fire, burnt down the worst of
+these places and ruined its owner, a bad Frenchwoman.
+And the railway was in full work, and the great road
+nearly finished, and the old one passable, and the mules
+and horses looked in such fair condition, that you would
+scarcely have believed Farrier C&mdash;&mdash;, of the Land Transport
+Corps, who would have told you then, and will tell you
+now, that he superintended, on one bleak morning of February,
+not six months agone, the task of throwing the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg&nbsp;163]</a></span>
+corpses of one hundred and eight mules over the cliffs at
+Karanyi into the Black Sea beneath.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the summer introduced its own plagues, and
+among the worst of these were the flies. I shall never
+forget those Crimean flies, and most sincerely hope that,
+like the Patagonians, they are only to be found in one
+part of the world. Nature must surely have intended
+them for blackbeetles, and accidentally given them wings.
+There was no exterminating them&mdash;no thinning them&mdash;no
+escaping from them by night or by day. One of my boys
+confined himself almost entirely to laying baits and traps
+for their destruction, and used to boast that he destroyed
+them at the rate of a gallon a day; but I never noticed
+any perceptible decrease in their powers of mischief and
+annoyance. The officers in the front suffered terribly from
+them. One of my kindest customers, a lieutenant serving
+in the Royal Naval Brigade, who was a close relative of
+the Queen, whose uniform he wore, came to me in great
+perplexity. He evidently considered the fly nuisance the
+most trying portion of the campaign, and of far more consequence
+than the Russian shot and shell. &ldquo;Mami,&rdquo; he
+said (he had been in the West Indies, and so called me
+by the familiar term used by the Creole children), &ldquo;Mami,
+these flies respect nothing. Not content with eating my
+prog, they set to at night and make a supper of me,&rdquo; and
+his face showed traces of their attacks. &ldquo;Confound them,
+they&rsquo;ll kill me, mami; they&rsquo;re everywhere, even in the
+trenches, and you&rsquo;d suppose they wouldn&rsquo;t care to go there
+from choice. What can you do for me, mami?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Not much; but I rode down to Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;&rsquo;s store, at
+Kadikoi, where I was lucky in being able to procure a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg&nbsp;164]</a></span>
+piece of muslin, which I pinned up (time was too precious to
+allow me to use needle and thread) into a mosquito net,
+with which the prince was delighted. He fell ill later in
+the summer, when I went up to his quarters and did all I
+could for him.</p>
+
+<p>As the summer wore on, busily passed by all of us at
+the British Hotel, rumours stronger than ever were heard
+of a great battle soon to be fought by the reinforcements
+which were known to have joined the Russian army.
+And I think that no one was much surprised when one
+pleasant August morning, at early dawn, heavy firing was
+heard towards the French position on the right, by the Tchernaya,
+and the stream of troops and on-lookers poured from all
+quarters in that direction. Prepared and loaded as usual,
+I was soon riding in the same direction, and saw the chief
+part of the morning&rsquo;s battle. I saw the Russians cross
+and recross the river. I saw their officers cheer and wave
+them on in the coolest, bravest manner, until they were
+shot down by scores. I was near enough to hear at times,
+in the lull of artillery, and above the rattle of the musketry,
+the excited cheers which told of a daring attack or a successful
+repulse; and beneath where I stood I could see&mdash;what
+the Russians could not&mdash;steadily drawn up, quiet
+and expectant, the squadrons of English and French
+cavalry, calmly yet impatiently waiting until the Russians&rsquo;
+partial success should bring their sabres into play.
+But the contingency never happened; and we saw the
+Russians fall slowly back in good order, while the dark-plumed
+Sardinians and red-pantalooned French spread out
+in pursuit, and formed a picture so excitingly beautiful
+that we forgot the suffering and death they left behind.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg&nbsp;165]</a></span>
+And then I descended with the rest into the field of
+battle.</p>
+
+<p>It was a fearful scene; but why repeat this remark.
+All death is trying to witness&mdash;even that of the good man
+who lays down his life hopefully and peacefully; but on
+the battle-field, when the poor body is torn and rent in
+hideous ways, and the scared spirit struggles to loose itself
+from the still strong frame that holds it tightly to the last,
+death is fearful indeed. It had come peacefully enough
+to some. They lay with half-opened eyes, and a quiet
+smile about the lips that showed their end to have been
+painless; others it had arrested in the heat of passion, and
+frozen on their pallid faces a glare of hatred and defiance
+that made your warm blood run cold. But little time had
+we to think of the dead, whose business it was to see after
+the dying, who might yet be saved. The ground was
+thickly cumbered with the wounded, some of them calm
+and resigned, others impatient and restless, a few filling
+the air with their cries of pain&mdash;all wanting water, and
+grateful to those who administered it, and more substantial
+comforts. You might see officers and strangers, visitors to
+the camp, riding about the field on this errand of mercy.
+And this, although&mdash;surely it could not have been intentional&mdash;Russian
+guns still played upon the scene of action.
+There were many others there, bent on a more selfish task.
+The plunderers were busy everywhere. It was marvellous
+to see how eagerly the French stripped the dead of what
+was valuable, not always, in their brutal work, paying
+much regard to the presence of a lady. Some of the
+officers, when I complained rather angrily, laughed,
+and said it was spoiling the Egyptians; but I <em>do</em> think the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg&nbsp;166]</a></span>
+Israelites spared their enemies those garments, which,
+perhaps, were not so unmentionable in those days as they
+have since become.</p>
+
+<p>I attended to the wounds of many French and Sardinians,
+and helped to lift them into the ambulances, which
+came tearing up to the scene of action. I derived no little
+gratification from being able to dress the wounds of several
+Russians; indeed, they were as kindly treated as the others.
+One of them was badly shot in the lower jaw, and was
+beyond my or any human skill. Incautiously I inserted
+my finger into his mouth to feel where the ball had lodged,
+and his teeth closed upon it, in the agonies of death, so
+tightly that I had to call to those around to release it,
+which was not done until it had been bitten so deeply that
+I shall carry the scar with me to my grave. Poor fellow,
+he meant me no harm, for, as the near approach of death
+softened his features, a smile spread over his rough inexpressive
+face, and so he died.</p>
+
+<p>I attended another Russian, a handsome fellow, and an
+officer, shot in the side, who bore his cruel suffering with
+a firmness that was very noble. In return for the little
+use I was to him, he took a ring off his finger and gave it
+to me, and after I had helped to lift him into the ambulance
+he kissed my hand and smiled far more thanks than I had
+earned. I do not know whether he survived his wounds,
+but I fear not. Many others, on that day, gave me thanks
+in words the meaning of which was lost upon me, and all
+of them in that one common language of the whole world&mdash;smiles.</p>
+
+<p>I carried two patients off the field; one a French officer
+wounded on the hip, who chose to go back to Spring Hill
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg&nbsp;167]</a></span>
+and be attended by me there, and who, on leaving, told us
+that he was a relative of the Marshal (Pelissier); the other, a
+poor Cossack colt I found running round its dam, which
+lay beside its Cossack master dead, with its tongue hanging
+from its mouth. The colt was already wounded in the
+ears and fore-foot, and I was only just in time to prevent
+a French corporal who, perhaps for pity&rsquo;s sake, was preparing
+to give it it&rsquo;s <i>coup de grace</i>. I saved the poor thing
+by promising to give the Frenchman ten shillings if he
+would bring it down to the British Hotel, which he did
+that same evening. I attended to its hurts, and succeeded
+in rearing it, and it became a great pet at Spring Hill, and
+accompanied me to England.</p>
+
+<p>I picked up some trophies from the battle-field, but
+not many, and those of little value. I cannot bear the
+idea of plundering either the living or the dead; but I
+picked up a Russian metal cross, and took from the bodies
+of some of the poor fellows nothing of more value than a few
+buttons, which I severed from their coarse grey coats.</p>
+
+<p>So end my reminiscences of the battle of the Tchernaya,
+fought, as all the world knows, on the 16th of August,
+1855.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>INSIDE SEBASTOPOL&mdash;THE LAST BOMBARDMENT OF SEBASTOPOL&mdash;ON
+CATHCART&rsquo;S HILL&mdash;RUMOURS IN THE CAMP&mdash;THE ATTACK ON THE
+MALAKHOFF&mdash;THE OLD WORK AGAIN&mdash;A SUNDAY EXCURSION&mdash;INSIDE
+&ldquo;OUR&rdquo; CITY&mdash;I AM TAKEN FOR A SPY, AND THEREAT
+LOSE MY TEMPER&mdash;I VISIT THE REDAN, ETC.&mdash;MY SHARE OF THE
+&ldquo;PLUNDER.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The three weeks following the battle of the Tchernaya
+were, I should think, some of the busiest and most eventful
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg&nbsp;168]</a></span>
+the world has ever seen. There was little doing at
+Spring Hill. Every one was either at his post, or too
+anxiously awaiting the issue of the last great bombardment
+to spend much time at the British Hotel. I think that I
+lost more of my patients and customers during those few
+weeks than during the whole previous progress of the
+siege. Scarce a night passed that I was not lulled to sleep
+with the heavy continuous roar of the artillery; scarce a
+morning dawned that the same sound did not usher in my
+day&rsquo;s work. The ear grew so accustomed during those
+weeks to the terrible roar, that when Sebastopol fell the
+sudden quiet seemed unnatural, and made us dull. And
+during the whole of this time the most perplexing rumours
+flew about, some having reference to the day of assault,
+the majority relative to the last great effort which it was
+supposed the Russians would make to drive us into the
+sea. I confess these latter rumours now and then caused
+me temporary uneasiness, Spring Hill being on the direct
+line of route which the actors in such a tragedy must take.</p>
+
+<p>I spent much of my time on Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill, watching,
+with a curiosity and excitement which became intense, the
+progress of the terrible bombardment. Now and then a
+shell would fall among the crowd of on-lookers which
+covered the hill; but it never disturbed us, so keen and
+feverish and so deadened to danger had the excitement
+and expectation made us.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of the bombardment took place the important
+ceremony of distributing the Order of the Bath to
+those selected for that honour. I contrived to witness this
+ceremony very pleasantly; and although it cost me a day,
+I considered that I had fairly earned the pleasure. I was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg&nbsp;169]</a></span>
+anxious to have some personal share in the affair, so I
+made, and forwarded to head-quarters, a cake which Gunter
+might have been at some loss to manufacture with the
+materials at my command, and which I adorned gaily with
+banners, flags, etc. I received great kindness from the
+officials at the ceremony, and from the officers&mdash;some of
+rank&mdash;who recognised me; indeed, I held quite a little
+<i>lev&eacute;e</i> around my chair.</p>
+
+<p>Well, a few days after this ceremony, I thought the
+end of the world, instead of the war, was at hand, when
+every battery opened and poured a perfect hail of shot and
+shell upon the beautiful city which I had left the night
+before sleeping so calm and peaceful beneath the stars.
+The firing began at early dawn, and was fearful. Sleep
+was impossible; so I arose, and set out for my old station
+on Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill. And here, with refreshments for the
+anxious lookers-on, I spent most of my time, right glad of
+any excuse to witness the last scene of the siege. It was
+from this spot that I saw fire after fire break out in
+Sebastopol, and watched all night the beautiful yet terrible
+effect of a great ship blazing in the harbour, and
+lighting up the adjoining country for miles.</p>
+
+<p>The weather changed, as it often did in the Crimea,
+most capriciously; and the morning of the memorable
+8th of September broke cold and wintry. The same little
+bird which had let me into so many secrets, also gave
+me a hint of what this day was pregnant with; and very
+early in the morning I was on horseback, with my bandages
+and refreshments, ready to repeat the work of the 18th
+of June last. A line of sentries forbade all strangers passing
+through without orders, even to Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill; but
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg&nbsp;170]</a></span>
+once more I found that my reputation served as a permit,
+and the officers relaxed the rule in my favour everywhere.
+So, early in the day, I was in my old spot, with my old
+appliances for the wounded and fatigued; little expecting,
+however, that this day would so closely resemble the day
+of the last attack in its disastrous results.</p>
+
+<p>It was noon before the cannonading suddenly ceased;
+and we saw, with a strange feeling of excitement, the
+French tumble out of their advanced trenches, and roll
+into the Malakhoff like a human flood. Onward they seemed
+to go into the dust and smoke, swallowed up by hundreds;
+but they never returned, and before long we saw workmen
+levelling parapets and filling up ditches, over which they
+drove, with headlong speed and impetuosity, artillery and
+ammunition-waggons, until there could be no doubt that
+the Malakhoff was taken, although the tide of battle still
+surged around it with violence, and wounded men were
+borne from it in large numbers. And before this, our men
+had made their attack, and the fearful assault of the Redan
+was going on, and failing. But I was soon too busy to
+see much, for the wounded were borne in even in greater
+numbers than at the last assault; whilst stragglers,
+slightly hurt, limped in, in fast-increasing numbers, and
+engrossed our attention. I now and then found time to
+ask them rapid questions; but they did not appear to know
+anything more than that everything had gone wrong. The
+sailors, as before, showed their gallantry, and even recklessness,
+conspicuously. The wounded of the ladder and
+sandbag parties came up even with a laugh, and joked
+about their hurts in the happiest conceivable manner.</p>
+
+<p>I saw many officers of the 97th wounded; and, as far
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg&nbsp;171]</a></span>
+as possible, I reserved my attentions for my old regiment,
+known so well in my native island. My poor 97th! their
+loss was terrible. I dressed the wound of one of its
+officers, seriously hit in the mouth; I attended to another
+wounded in the throat, and bandaged the hand of a third,
+terribly crushed by a rifle-bullet. In the midst of this
+we were often interrupted by those unwelcome and impartial
+Russian visitors&mdash;the shells. One fell so near that
+I thought my last hour was come; and, although I had
+sufficient firmness to throw myself upon the ground, I was
+so seriously frightened that I never thought of rising from
+my recumbent position until the hearty laugh of those
+around convinced me that the danger had passed by.
+Afterwards I picked up a piece of this huge shell, and
+brought it home with me.</p>
+
+<p>It was on this, as on every similar occasion, that I saw
+the <i>Times</i> correspondent eagerly taking down notes and
+sketches of the scene, under fire&mdash;listening apparently
+with attention to all the busy little crowd that surrounded
+him, but without laying down his pencil; and yet finding
+time, even in his busiest moment, to lend a helping hand
+to the wounded. It may have been on this occasion that
+his keen eye noticed me, and his mind, albeit engrossed
+with far more important memories, found room to remember
+me. I may well be proud of his testimony, borne so
+generously only the other day, and may well be excused
+for transcribing it from the columns of the <i>Times</i>:&mdash;&ldquo;I
+have seen her go down, under fire, with her little store of
+creature comforts for our wounded men; and a more
+tender or skilful hand about a wound or broken limb could
+not be found among our best surgeons. I saw her at the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg&nbsp;172]</a></span>
+assault on the Redan, at the Tchernaya, at the fall of
+Sebastopol, laden, not with plunder, good old soul! but
+with wine, bandages, and food for the wounded or the
+prisoners.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I remained on Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill far into the night, and
+watched the city blazing beneath us, awe-struck at the
+terrible sight, until the bitter wind found its way through
+my thin clothing, and chilled me to the bone; and not till
+then did I leave for Spring Hill. I had little sleep that
+night. The night was made a ruddy lurid day with the
+glare of the blazing town; while every now and then came
+reports which shook the earth to its centre. And yet I
+believe very many of the soldiers, wearied with their day&rsquo;s
+labour, slept soundly throughout that terrible night, and
+awoke to find their work completed: for in the night,
+covered by the burning city, Sebastopol was left, a heap of
+ruins, to its victors; and before noon on the following day,
+none but dead and dying Russians were in the south side
+of the once famous and beautiful mistress-city of the
+Euxine.</p>
+
+<p>The good news soon spread through the camp. It gave
+great pleasure; but I almost think the soldiers would have
+been better pleased had the Russians delayed their parting
+twelve hours longer, and given the Highlanders and their
+comrades a chance of retrieving the disasters of the previous
+day. Nothing else could wipe away the soreness of defeat,
+or compensate for the better fortune which had befallen
+our allies the French.</p>
+
+<p>The news of the evacuation of Sebastopol soon carried
+away all traces of yesterday&rsquo;s fatigue. For weeks past I
+had been offering bets to every one that I would not only
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg&nbsp;173]</a></span>
+be the first woman to enter Sebastopol from the English
+lines, but that I would be the first to carry refreshments
+into the fallen city. And now the time I had longed for
+had come. I borrowed some mules from the Land Transport
+Corps&mdash;mine were knocked up by yesterday&rsquo;s work&mdash;and
+loading them with good things, started off with my
+partner and some other friends early on that memorable
+Sunday morning for Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill.</p>
+
+<p>When I found that strict orders had been given to
+admit no one inside Sebastopol, I became quite excited;
+and making my way to General Garrett&rsquo;s quarters, I made
+such an earnest representation of what I considered my
+right that I soon obtained a pass, of which the following
+is a copy:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>&ldquo;Pass Mrs. Seacole and her attendants, with refreshments
+for officers and soldiers in the Redan and in
+Sebastopol.</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Garrett</span>, M.G.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 4em;">&ldquo;Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill, Sept. 9, 1855.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>So many attached themselves to my staff, becoming for
+the nonce my attendants, that I had some difficulty at
+starting; but at last I passed all the sentries safely, much
+to the annoyance of many officers, who were trying every
+conceivable scheme to evade them, and entered the city.
+I can give you no very clear description of its condition on
+that Sunday morning, a year and a half ago. Many parts
+of it were still blazing furiously&mdash;explosions were taking
+place in all directions&mdash;every step had a score of dangers; and
+yet curiosity and excitement carried us on and on. I was
+often stopped to give refreshments to officers and men, who
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg&nbsp;174]</a></span>
+had been fasting for hours. Some, on the other hand, had
+found their way to Russian cellars; and one body of men
+were most ingloriously drunk, and playing the wildest
+pranks. They were dancing, yelling, and singing&mdash;some
+of them with Russian women&rsquo;s dresses fastened round their
+waists, and old bonnets stuck upon their heads.</p>
+
+<p>I was offered many trophies. All plunder was stopped
+by the sentries, and confiscated, so that the soldiers could
+afford to be liberal. By one I was offered a great velvet
+sofa; another pressed a huge arm-chair, which had graced
+some Sebastopol study, upon me; while a third begged
+my acceptance of a portion of a grand piano. What I did
+carry away was very unimportant: a gaily-decorated altar-candle,
+studded with gold and silver stars, which the
+present Commander-in-Chief condescended to accept as a
+Sebastopol memorial; an old cracked China teapot, which
+in happier times had very likely dispensed pleasure to
+many a small tea-party; a cracked bell, which had rung
+many to prayers during the siege, and which I bore away
+on my saddle; and a parasol, given me by a drunken soldier.
+He had a silk skirt on, and torn lace upon his
+wrists, and he came mincingly up, holding the parasol
+above his head, and imitating the walk of an affected lady,
+to the vociferous delight of his comrades. And all this,
+and much more, in that fearful charnel city, with death
+and suffering on every side.</p>
+
+<p>It was very hazardous to pass along some of the streets
+exposed to the fire of the Russians on the north side of the
+harbour. We had to wait and watch our opportunity, and
+then gallop for it. Some of us had close shaves of being
+hit. More than this, fires still kept breaking out around;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg&nbsp;175]</a></span>
+while mines and fougasses not unfrequently exploded from
+unknown causes. We saw two officers emerge from a heap
+of ruins, covered and almost blinded with smoke and dust,
+from some such unlooked-for explosion. With considerable
+difficulty we succeeded in getting into the quarter of the
+town held by the French, where I was nearly getting into
+serious trouble.</p>
+
+<p>I had loitered somewhat behind my party, watching,
+with pardonable curiosity, the adroitness with which a
+party of French were plundering a house; and by the
+time my curiosity had been satisfied, I found myself quite
+alone, my retinue having preceded me by some few hundred
+yards. This would have been of little consequence,
+had not an American sailor lad, actuated either by mischief
+or folly, whispered to the Frenchmen that I was a Russian
+spy; and had they not, instead of laughing at him, credited
+his assertion, and proceeded to arrest me. Now, such a
+charge was enough to make a lion of a lamb; so I refused
+positively to dismount, and made matters worse by knocking
+in the cap of the first soldier who laid hands upon me,
+with the bell that hung at my saddle. Upon this, six or
+seven tried to force me to the guard-house in rather a
+rough manner, while I resisted with all my force, screaming
+out for Mr. Day, and using the bell for a weapon.
+How I longed for a better one I need not tell the reader.
+In the midst of this scene came up a French officer, whom
+I recognised as the patient I had taken to Spring Hill after
+the battle of the Tchernaya, and who took my part at once,
+and ordered them to release me. Although I rather
+weakened my cause, it was most natural that, directly I
+was released, I should fly at the varlet who had caused me
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg&nbsp;176]</a></span>
+this trouble; and I did so, using my bell most effectually,
+and aided, when my party returned, by their riding-whips.</p>
+
+<p>This little adventure took up altogether so much time
+that, when the French soldiers had made their apologies to
+me, and I had returned the compliment to the one whose
+head had been dented by my bell, it was growing late, and
+we made our way back to Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill. On the way, a
+little French soldier begged hard of me to buy a picture,
+which had been cut from above the altar of some church
+in Sebastopol. It was too dark to see much of his prize,
+but I ultimately became its possessor, and brought it home
+with me. It is some eight or ten feet in length, and represents,
+I should think, the Madonna. I am no judge of
+such things, but I think, although the painting is rather
+coarse, that the face of the Virgin, and the heads of
+Cherubim that fill the cloud from which she is descending,
+are soft and beautiful. There is a look of divine calmness
+and heavenly love in the Madonna&rsquo;s face which is very
+striking; and, perhaps, during the long and awful siege
+many a knee was bent in worship before it, and many a
+heart found comfort in its soft loving gaze.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day I again entered Sebastopol, and
+saw still more of its horrors. But I have refrained from
+describing so many scenes of woe, that I am loth to dwell
+much on these. The very recollection of that woeful
+hospital, where thousands of dead and dying had been left
+by the retreating Russians, is enough to unnerve the
+strongest and sicken the most experienced. I would give
+much if I had never seen that harrowing sight. I believe
+some Englishmen were found in it alive; but it was as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg&nbsp;177]</a></span>
+well that they did not live to tell their fearful experience.</p>
+
+<p>I made my way into the Redan also, although every
+step was dangerous, and took from it some brown bread,
+which seemed to have been left in the oven by the baker
+when he fled.</p>
+
+<p>Before many days were passed, some Frenchwomen
+opened houses in Sebastopol; but in that quarter of the
+town held by the English the prospect was not sufficiently
+tempting for me to follow their example, and so I saw out
+the remainder of the campaign from my old quarters at
+Spring Hill.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>HOLIDAY IN THE CAMP&mdash;A NEW ENEMY, TIME&mdash;AMUSEMENTS IN THE
+CRIMEA&mdash;MY SHARE IN THEM&mdash;DINNER AT SPRING HILL&mdash;AT THE
+RACES&mdash;CHRISTMAS DAY IN THE BRITISH HOTEL&mdash;NEW YEAR&rsquo;S DAY
+IN THE HOSPITAL.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Well, the great work was accomplished&mdash;Sebastopol was
+taken. The Russians had retired sullenly to their stronghold
+on the north side of the harbour, from which, every
+now and then, they sent a few vain shot and shell, which
+sent the amateurs in the streets of Sebastopol scampering,
+but gave the experienced no concern. In a few days the
+camp could find plenty to talk about in their novel position&mdash;and
+what then? What was to be done? More fighting?
+Another equally terrible and lengthy siege of the north?
+That was the business of a few at head-quarters and in
+council at home, between whom the electric wires flashed
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg&nbsp;178]</a></span>
+many a message. In the meanwhile, the real workers
+applied themselves to plan amusements, and the same
+energy and activity which had made Sebastopol a heap of
+ruins and a well-filled cemetery&mdash;which had dug the miles
+of trenches, and held them when made against a desperate
+foe&mdash;which had manned the many guns, and worked them
+so well, set to work as eager to kill their present enemy,
+Time, as they had lately been to destroy their fled enemies,
+the Russians.</p>
+
+<p>All who were before Sebastopol will long remember
+the beautiful autumn which succeeded to so eventful a
+summer, and ushered in so pleasantly the second winter of
+the campaign. It was appreciated as only those who earn
+the right to enjoyment can enjoy relaxation. The camp
+was full of visitors of every rank. They thronged the
+streets of Sebastopol, sketching its ruins and setting up photographic
+apparatus, in contemptuous indifference of the
+shot with which the Russians generally favoured every conspicuous
+group.</p>
+
+<p>Pleasure was hunted keenly. Cricket matches, pic-nics,
+dinner parties, races, theatricals, all found their admirers.
+My restaurant was always full, and once more merry
+laughter was heard, and many a dinner party was held,
+beneath the iron roof of the British Hotel. Several were
+given in compliment to our allies, and many distinguished
+Frenchmen have tested my powers of cooking. You might
+have seen at one party some of their most famous officers.
+At once were present a Prince of the Imperial family of
+France, the Duc de Rouchefoucault, and a certain corporal
+in the French service, who was perhaps the best known
+man in the whole army, the Viscount Talon. They
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg&nbsp;179]</a></span>
+expressed themselves highly gratified at the <i>carte</i>, and
+perhaps were not a little surprised as course after course
+made its appearance, and to soup and fish succeeded
+turkeys, saddle of mutton, fowls, ham, tongue, curry,
+pastry of many sorts, custards, jelly, blanc-mange, and olives.
+I took a peculiar pride in doing my best when they were
+present, for I knew a little of the secrets of the French
+commissariat. I wonder if the world will ever know
+more. I wonder if the system of secresy which has so
+long kept veiled the sufferings of the French army before
+Sebastopol will ever yield to truth. I used to guess something
+of those sufferings when I saw, even after the fall
+of Sebastopol, half-starved French soldiers prowling about
+my store, taking eagerly even what the Turks rejected as
+unfit for human food; and no one could accuse <em>them</em> of
+squeamishness. I cannot but believe that in some desks
+or bureaux lie notes or diaries which shall one day be given
+to the world; and when this happens, the terrible distresses
+of the English army will pall before the unheard-of sufferings
+of the French. It is true that they carried from
+Sebastopol the lion&rsquo;s share of glory. My belief is that
+they deserved it, having borne by far a larger proportion
+of suffering.</p>
+
+<p>There were few dinners at Spring Hill at which the
+guests did not show their appreciation of their hostess&rsquo;s labour
+by drinking her health; and at the dinner I have above
+alluded to, the toast was responded to with such enthusiasm
+that I felt compelled to put my acknowledgments into the
+form of a little speech, which Talon interpreted to his
+countrymen. The French Prince was, after this occasion,
+several times at the British Hotel. He was there once
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg&nbsp;180]</a></span>
+when some Americans were received by me with scarcely
+that cordiality which I have been told distinguished my
+reception of guests; and upon their leaving I told him&mdash;quite
+forgetting his own connection with America&mdash;of my
+prejudice against the Yankees. He heard me for a little
+while, and then he interrupted me.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Tenez! Madame Seacole, I too am American a little.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>What a pity I was not born a countess! I am sure I
+should have made a capital courtier. Witness my impromptu
+answer:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I should never have guessed it, Prince.&rdquo;&mdash;And he
+seemed amused.</p>
+
+<p>With the theatricals directly I had nothing to do. Had
+I been a little younger the companies would very likely
+have been glad of me, for no one liked to sacrifice their
+beards to become Miss Julia or plain Mary Ann; and even
+the beardless subalterns had voices which no coaxing could
+soften down. But I lent them plenty of dresses; indeed,
+it was the only airing which a great many gay-coloured
+muslins had in the Crimea. How was I to know when I
+brought them what camp-life was? And in addition to
+this, I found it necessary to convert my kitchen into a
+temporary green-room, where, to the wonderment, and
+perhaps scandal, of the black cook, the ladies of the company
+of the 1st Royals were taught to manage their petticoats
+with becoming grace, and neither to show their
+awkward booted ankles, nor trip themselves up over their
+trains. It was a difficult task in many respects. Although
+I laced them in until they grew blue in the face, their
+waists were a disgrace to the sex; while&mdash;crinoline being
+unknown then&mdash;my struggles to give them becoming
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg&nbsp;181]</a></span>
+<i>embonpoint</i> may be imagined. It was not until a year
+later that <i>Punch</i> thought of using a clothes-basket; and I
+would have given much for such a hint when I was dresser
+to the theatrical company of the 1st Royals. The hair
+was another difficulty. To be sure, there was plenty in
+the camp, only it was in the wrong place, and many an
+application was made to me for a set of curls. However,
+I am happy to say I am not become a customer of the
+wigmakers yet.</p>
+
+<p>My recollections of hunting in the Crimea are confined
+to seeing troops of horsemen sweep by with shouts and
+yells after some wretched dog. Once I was very nearly
+frightened out of my wits&mdash;my first impression being that
+the Russians had carried into effect their old threat of
+driving us into the sea&mdash;by the startling appearance of a
+large body of horsemen tearing down the hill after, apparently,
+nothing. However I discovered in good time
+that, in default of vermin, they were chasing a brother
+officer with a paper bag.</p>
+
+<p>My experience of Crimean races are perfect, for I was
+present, in the character of cantiniere, at all the more important
+meetings. Some of them took place before Christmas,
+and some after; but I shall exhaust the subject at
+once. I had no little difficulty to get the things on to
+the course; and in particular, after I had sat up
+the whole night making preparations for the December
+races, at the Monastery of St. George, I could not get my
+poor mules over the rough country, and found myself, in
+the middle of the day, some miles from the course. At
+last I gave it up as hopeless, and, dismounting, sat down
+by the roadside to consider how I could possibly dispose
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg&nbsp;182]</a></span>
+of the piles of sandwiches, bread, cheese, pies, and tarts,
+which had been prepared for the hungry spectators. At
+last, some officers, who expected me long before, came to
+look after me, and by their aid we reached the course.</p>
+
+<p>I was better off at the next meeting, for a kind-hearted
+Major of Artillery provided me with a small bell-tent that
+was very useful, and enabled me to keep my stores out of
+reach of the light-fingered gentry, who were as busy in the
+Crimea as at Epsom or Hampton Court. Over this tent
+waved the flag of the British Hotel, but, during the day, it
+was struck, for an accident happening to one Captain
+D&mdash;&mdash;, he was brought to my tent insensible, where I
+quickly improvised a couch of some straw, covered with
+the Union Jack, and brought him round. I mention this
+trifle to show how ready of contrivance a little campaigning
+causes one to become. I had several patients in consequence
+of accidents at the races. Nor was I altogether
+free from accidents myself. On the occasion of the races
+by the Tchernaya, after the armistice, my cart, on turning
+a sudden bend in the steep track, upset, and the crates,
+containing plates and dishes, rolled over and over until their
+contents were completely broken up; so that I was reduced
+to hand about sandwiches, etc., on broken pieces of earthenware
+and scraps of paper. I saved some glasses, but not
+many, and some of the officers were obliged to drink out
+of stiff paper twisted into funnel-shaped glasses.</p>
+
+<p>It was astonishing how well the managers of these
+Crimean races had contrived to imitate the old familiar
+scenes at home. You might well wonder where the racing
+saddles and boots, and silk caps and jackets had come from;
+but our connection with England was very different to what
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg&nbsp;183]</a></span>
+it had been when I first came to the Crimea, and many a
+wife and sister&rsquo;s fingers had been busy making the racing
+gear for the Crimea meetings. And in order that the
+course should still more closely resemble Ascot or Epsom,
+some soldiers blackened their faces and came out as
+Ethiopian serenaders admirably, although it would puzzle
+the most ingenious to guess where they got their wigs and
+banjoes from. I caught one of them behind my tent in
+the act of knocking off the neck of a bottle of champagne,
+and, paralysed by the wine&rsquo;s hasty exit, the only excuse
+he offered was, that he wanted to know if the officers&rsquo;
+luxury was better than rum.</p>
+
+<p>A few weeks before Christmas, happened that fearful
+explosion, in the French ammunition park, which destroyed
+so many lives. We had experienced nothing at all like
+it before. The earth beneath us, even at the distance of
+three miles, reeled and trembled with the shock; and so
+great was the force of the explosion, that a piece of stone
+was hurled with some violence against the door of the
+British Hotel. We all felt for the French very much,
+although I do not think that the armies agreed quite so
+well after the taking of the Malakhoff, and the unsuccessful
+assault upon the Redan, as they had done previously. I
+saw several instances of unpleasantness and collision,
+arising from allusions to sore points. One, in particular,
+occurred in my store.</p>
+
+<p>The French, when they wanted&mdash;it was very seldom&mdash;to
+wound the pride of the English soldiery, used to say significantly,
+in that jargon by which the various nations in
+the Crimea endeavoured to obviate the consequences of
+what occurred at the Tower of Babel, some time ago,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg&nbsp;184]</a></span>
+&ldquo;Malakhoff bono&mdash;Redan no bono.&rdquo; And this, of course, usually
+led to recriminatory statements, and history was ransacked
+to find something consolatory to English pride. Once I
+noticed a brawny man, of the Army Works Corps, bringing
+a small French Zouave to my canteen, evidently with the
+view of standing treat. The Frenchman seemed mischievously
+inclined, and, probably relying upon the good
+humour on the countenance of his gigantic companion,
+began a little playful badinage, ending with the taunt of
+&ldquo;Redan, no bono&mdash;Redan, no bono.&rdquo; I never saw any man
+look so helplessly angry as the Englishman did. For a
+few minutes he seemed absolutely rooted to the ground.
+Of course he could have crushed his mocking friend with
+ease, but how could he answer his taunt. All at once,
+however, a happy thought struck him, and rushing up to
+the Zouave, he caught him round the waist and threw him
+down, roaring out, &ldquo;Waterloo was bono&mdash;Waterloo was
+bono.&rdquo; It was as much as the people on the premises could
+do to part them, so convulsed were we all with laughter.</p>
+
+<p>And before Christmas, occurred my first and last attack
+of illness in the Crimea. It was not of much consequence,
+nor should I mention it but to show the kindness of my
+soldier-friends. I think it arose from the sudden commencement
+of winter, for which I was but poorly provided.
+However, I soon received much sympathy and many
+presents of warm clothing, etc.; but the most delicate
+piece of attention was shown me by one of the Sappers and
+Miners, who, hearing the report that I was dead, positively
+came down to Spring Hill to take my measure for a coffin.
+This may seem a questionable compliment, but I really
+felt flattered and touched with such a mark of thoughtful
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg&nbsp;185]</a></span>
+attention. Very few in the Crimea had the luxury of any
+better coffin than a blanket-shroud, and it was very good of
+the grateful fellow to determine that his old friend, the
+mistress of Spring Hill, should have an honour conceded
+to so very few of the illustrious dead before Sebastopol.</p>
+
+<p>So Christmas came, and with it pleasant memories of
+home and of home comforts. With it came also news of
+home&mdash;some not of the most pleasant description&mdash;and
+kind wishes from absent friends. &ldquo;A merry Christmas to
+you,&rdquo; writes one, &ldquo;and many of them. Although you
+will not write to us, we see your name frequently in the
+newspapers, from which we judge that you are strong and
+hearty. All your old Jamaica friends are delighted to
+hear of you, and say that you are an honour to the Isle of
+Springs.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I wonder if the people of other countries are as fond of
+carrying with them everywhere their home habits as the
+English. I think not. I think there was something
+purely and essentially English in the determination of the
+camp to spend the Christmas-day of 1855 after the good
+old &ldquo;home&rdquo; fashion. It showed itself weeks before the
+eventful day. In the dinner parties which were got up&mdash;in
+the orders sent to England&mdash;in the supplies which came
+out, and in the many applications made to the hostess of
+the British Hotel for plum-puddings and mince-pies. The
+demand for them, and the material necessary to manufacture
+them, was marvellous. I can fancy that if returns
+could be got at of the flour, plums, currants, and eggs
+consumed on Christmas-day in the out-of-the-way Crimean
+peninsula, they would astonish us. One determination
+appeared to have taken possession of every mind&mdash;to spend
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg&nbsp;186]</a></span>
+the festive day with the mirth and jollity which the
+changed prospect of affairs warranted; and the recollection
+of a year ago, when death and misery were the camp&rsquo;s
+chief guests, only served to heighten this resolve.</p>
+
+<p>For three weeks previous to Christmas-day, my time
+was fully occupied in making preparations for it. Pages
+of my books are filled with orders for plum-puddings and
+mince-pies, besides which I sold an immense quantity of
+raw material to those who were too far off to send down
+for the manufactured article on Christmas-day, and to such
+purchasers I gave a plain recipe for their guidance. Will
+the reader take any interest in my Crimean Christmas-pudding?
+It was plain, but decidedly good. However,
+you shall judge for yourself:&mdash;&ldquo;One pound of flour,
+three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a
+pound of fat pork, chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of
+sugar, a little cinnamon or chopped lemon, half-pint of
+milk or water; mix these well together, and boil four
+hours.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>From an early hour in the morning until long after the
+night had set in, were I and my cooks busy endeavouring
+to supply the great demand for Christmas fare. We had
+considerable difficulty in keeping our engagements, but by
+substituting mince-pies for plum-puddings, in a few cases,
+we succeeded. The scene in the crowded store, and even
+in the little over-heated kitchen, with the officers&rsquo; servants,
+who came in for their masters&rsquo; dinners, cannot well be
+described. Some were impatient themselves, others dreaded
+their masters&rsquo; impatience as the appointed dinner hour
+passed by&mdash;all combined by entreaties, threats, cajolery,
+and fun to drive me distracted. Angry cries for the major&rsquo;s
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg&nbsp;187]</a></span>
+plum-pudding, which was to have been ready an hour ago,
+alternated with an entreaty that I should cook the captain&rsquo;s
+mince-pies to a turn&mdash;&ldquo;Sure, he likes them well done,
+ma&rsquo;am. Bake &rsquo;em as brown as your own purty face, darlint.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I did not get my dinner until eight o&rsquo;clock, and then I
+dined in peace off a fine wild turkey or bustard, shot for
+me on the marshes by the Tchernaya. It weighed twenty-two
+pounds, and, although somewhat coarse in colour, had
+a capital flavour.</p>
+
+<p>Upon New Year&rsquo;s-day I had another large cooking of
+plum-puddings and mince-pies; this time upon my own
+account. I took them to the hospital of the Land Transport
+Corps, to remind the patients of the home comforts
+they longed so much for. It was a sad sight to see the once
+fine fellows, in their blue gowns, lying quiet and still, and
+reduced to such a level of weakness and helplessness.
+They all seemed glad for the little home tokens I took
+them.</p>
+
+<p>There was one patient who had been a most industrious
+and honest fellow, and who did not go into the hospital
+until long and wearing illness compelled him. I was particularly
+anxious to look after him, but I found him very
+weak and ill. I stayed with him until evening, and before
+I left him, kind fancy had brought to his bedside his wife
+and children from his village-home in England, and I
+could hear him talking to them in a low and joyful tone.
+Poor, poor fellow! the New Year so full of hope and
+happiness had dawned upon him, but he did not live to
+see the wild flowers spring up peacefully through the war-trodden
+sod before Sebastopol.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg&nbsp;188]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="chaptop">
+<p>NEW YEAR IN THE CRIMEA&mdash;GOOD NEWS&mdash;THE ARMISTICE&mdash;BARTER
+WITH THE RUSSIANS&mdash;WAR AND PEACE&mdash;TIDINGS OF PEACE&mdash;EXCURSIONS
+INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE CRIMEA&mdash;TO SIMPHEROPOL,
+BAKTCHISERAI, ETC.&mdash;THE TROOPS BEGIN TO LEAVE THE CRIMEA&mdash;FRIENDS&rsquo;
+FAREWELLS&mdash;THE CEMETERIES&mdash;WE REMOVE FROM SPRING
+HILL TO BALACLAVA&mdash;ALARMING SACRIFICE OF OUR STOCK&mdash;A LAST
+GLIMPSE OF SEBASTOPOL&mdash;HOME!</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Before the New Year was far advanced we all began to think
+of going home, making sure that peace would soon be concluded.
+And never did more welcome message come anywhere
+than that which brought us intelligence of the armistice,
+and the firing, which had grown more and more slack
+lately, ceased altogether. Of course the army did not
+desire peace because they had any distaste for fighting; so
+far from it, I believe the only more welcome intelligence
+would have been news of a campaign in the field, but they
+were most heartily weary of sieges, and the prospect of
+another year before the gloomy north of Sebastopol damped
+the ardour of the most sanguine. Before the armistice
+was signed, the Russians and their old foes made advances
+of friendship, and the banks of the Tchernaya used to be
+thronged with strangers, and many strange acquaintances
+were thus began. I was one of the first to ride down to
+the Tchernaya, and very much delighted seemed the
+Russians to see an English woman. I wonder if they
+thought they all had my complexion. I soon entered
+heartily into the then current amusement&mdash;that of exchanging
+coin, etc., with the Russians. I stole a march
+upon my companions by making the sign of the cross upon
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg&nbsp;189]</a></span>
+my bosom, upon which a Russian threw me, in exchange
+for some pence, a little metal figure of some ugly saint.
+Then we wrapped up halfpence in clay, and received coins
+of less value in exchange. Seeing a soldier eating some
+white bread, I made signs of wanting some, and threw
+over a piece of money. I had great difficulty in making
+the man understand me, but after considerable pantomime,
+with surprise in his round bullet eyes, he wrapped up his
+bread in some paper, then coated it with clay and sent it
+over to me. I thought it would look well beside my
+brown bread taken from the strange oven in the terrible
+Redan, and that the two would typify war and peace.
+There was a great traffic going on in such things, and a wag
+of an officer, who could talk Russian imperfectly, set himself
+to work to persuade an innocent Russian that I was his
+wife, and having succeeded in doing so promptly offered to
+dispose of me for the medal hanging at his breast.</p>
+
+<p>The last firing of any consequence was the salutes with
+which the good tidings of peace were received by army
+and navy. After this soon began the home-going with
+happy faces and light hearts, and some kind thoughts and
+warm tears for the comrades left behind.</p>
+
+<p>I was very glad to hear of peace, also, although it
+must have been apparent to every one that it would cause
+our ruin. We had lately made extensive additions to our
+store and out-houses&mdash;our shelves were filled with articles
+laid in at a great cost, and which were now unsaleable,
+and which it would be equally impossible to carry home.
+Everything, from our stud of horses and mules down to our
+latest consignments from home, must be sold for any price;
+and, as it happened, for many things, worth a year ago
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg&nbsp;190]</a></span>
+their weight in gold, no purchaser could now be found.
+However, more of this hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving the Crimea, I made various excursions
+into the interior, visiting Simpheropol and Baktchiserai.
+I travelled to Simpheropol with a pretty large party, and
+had a very amusing journey. My companions were young
+and full of fun, and tried hard to persuade the Russians
+that I was Queen Victoria, by paying me the most absurd
+reverence. When this failed they fell back a little, and
+declared that I was the Queen&rsquo;s first cousin. Anyhow,
+they attracted crowds about me, and I became quite a
+lioness in the streets of Simpheropol, until the arrival of
+some Highlanders in their uniform cut me out.</p>
+
+<p>My excursion to Baktchiserai was still more amusing
+and pleasant. I found it necessary to go to beat up a
+Russian merchant, who, after the declaration of peace, had
+purchased stores of us, and some young officers made
+up a party for the purpose. We hired an araba, filled it
+with straw, and some boxes to sit upon, and set out very
+early, with two old umbrellas to shield us from the mid-day
+sun and the night dews. We had with us a hamper
+carefully packed, before parting, with a cold duck, some
+cold meat, a tart, etc. The Tartar&rsquo;s two horses were soon
+knocked up, and the fellow obtained a third at a little
+village, and so we rolled on until mid-day, when,
+thoroughly exhausted, we left our clumsy vehicle and
+carried our hamper beneath the shade of a beautiful cherry-tree,
+and determined to lunch. Upon opening it the first
+thing that met our eyes was a fine rat, who made a speedy
+escape. Somewhat gravely, we proceeded to unpack its
+contents, without caring to express our fears to one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg&nbsp;191]</a></span>
+another, and quite soon enough we found them realized.
+How or where the rat had gained access to our hamper it
+was impossible to say, but he had made no bad use of his
+time, and both wings of the cold duck had flown, while
+the tart was considerably mangled. Sad discovery this for
+people who, although, hungry, were still squeamish. We
+made out as well as we could with the cold beef, and gave
+the rest to our Tartar driver, who had apparently no disinclination
+to eating after the rat, and would very likely
+have despised us heartily for such weakness. After dinner
+we went on more briskly, and succeeded in reaching
+Baktchiserai. My journey was perfectly unavailing. I
+could not find my debtor at home, and if I had I was told
+it would take three weeks before the Russian law would
+assist me to recover my claim. Determined, however, to
+have some compensation, I carried off a raven, who had
+been croaking angrily at my intrusion. Before we had
+been long on our homeward journey, however, Lieut.
+C&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;sat upon it, of course accidentally, and we threw it
+to its relatives&mdash;the crows.</p>
+
+<p>As the spring advanced, the troops began to move away
+at a brisk pace. As they passed the Iron House upon the
+Col&mdash;old for the Crimea, where so much of life&rsquo;s action had
+been compressed into so short a space of time&mdash;they would
+stop and give us a parting cheer, while very often the band
+struck up some familiar tune of that home they were so
+gladly seeking. And very often the kind-hearted officers
+would find time to run into the British Hotel to bid us
+good-bye, and give us a farewell shake of the hand; for
+you see war, like death, is a great leveller, and mutual
+suffering and endurance had made us all friends. &ldquo;My dear
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg&nbsp;192]</a></span>
+Mrs. Seacole, and my dear Mr. Day,&rdquo; wrote one on a scrap
+of paper left on the counter, &ldquo;I have called here four
+times this day, to wish you good-bye. I am so sorry I was
+not fortunate enough to see you. I shall still hope to see
+you to-morrow morning. We march at seven a.m.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>And yet all this going home seemed strange and somewhat
+sad, and sometimes I felt that I could not sympathise
+with the glad faces and happy hearts of those who were
+looking forward to the delights of home, and the joy of
+seeing once more the old familiar faces remembered so
+fondly in the fearful trenches and the hard-fought battle-fields.
+Now and then we would see a lounger with a
+blank face, taking no interest in the bustle of departure,
+and with him I acknowledged to have more fellow-feeling
+than with the others, for he, as well as I, clearly had no
+home to go to. He was a soldier by choice and necessity,
+as well as by profession. He had no home, no loved
+friends; the peace would bring no particular pleasure to
+him, whereas war and action were necessary to his
+existence, gave him excitement, occupation, the chance
+of promotion. Now and then, but seldom, however, you
+came across such a disappointed one. Was it not so with
+me? Had I not been happy through the months of toil
+and danger, never knowing what fear or depression was,
+finding every moment of the day mortgaged hours in
+advance, and earning sound sleep and contentment by sheer
+hard work? What better or happier lot could possibly
+befall me? And, alas! how likely was it that my present
+occupation gone, I might long in vain for another so
+stirring and so useful. Besides which, it was pretty sure
+that I should go to England poorer than I left it, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg&nbsp;193]</a></span>
+although I was not ashamed of poverty, beginning life
+again in the autumn&mdash;I mean late in the summer of life&mdash;is
+hard up-hill work.</p>
+
+<p>Peace concluded, the little jealousies which may have
+sprung up between the French and their allies seemed forgotten,
+and every one was anxious, ere the parting came,
+to make the most of the time yet left in improving old
+friendships and founding new. Among others, the 47th,
+encamped near the Woronzoff Road, gave a grand parting
+entertainment to a large company of their French neighbours,
+at which many officers of high rank were present.
+I was applied to by the committee of management to superintend
+the affair, and, for the last time in the Crimea, the
+health of Madame Seacole was proposed and duly honoured.
+I had grown so accustomed to the honour that I had no
+difficulty in returning thanks in a speech which Colonel
+B&mdash;&mdash;&nbsp;interpreted amid roars of laughter to the French
+guests.</p>
+
+<p>As the various regiments moved off, I received many
+acknowledgments from those who thought they owed me
+gratitude. Little presents, warm farewell words, kind
+letters full of grateful acknowledgments for services so
+small that I had forgotten them long, long ago&mdash;how easy
+it is to reach warm hearts!&mdash;little thoughtful acts of kindness,
+even from the humblest. And these touched me the
+most. I value the letters received from the working men
+far more than the testimonials of their officers. I had
+nothing to gain from the former, and can point to their
+testimony fearlessly. I am strongly tempted to insert
+some of these acknowledgments, but I will confine myself
+to one:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg&nbsp;194]</a></span>
+<p class="address">&ldquo;Camp, near Karani, June 16, 1856.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">My dear Mrs. Seacole</span>,&mdash;As you are about to leave
+the Crimea, I avail myself of the only opportunity which
+may occur for some time, to acknowledge my gratitude to
+you, and to thank you for the kindness which I, in common
+with many others, received at your hands, when attacked
+with cholera in the spring of 1855. But I have no language
+to do it suitably.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I am truly sensible that your kindness far exceeded
+my claims upon your sympathy. It is said by some of
+your friends, I hope truly, that you are going to England.
+There can be none from the Crimea more welcome there,
+for your kindness in the sick-tent, and your heroism in the
+battle-field, have endeared you to the whole army.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I am sure when her most gracious Majesty the Queen
+shall have become acquainted with the service you have
+gratuitously rendered to so many of her brave soldiers, her
+generous heart will thank you. For you have been an
+instrument in the hands of the Almighty to preserve many
+a gallant heart to the empire, to fight and win her battles,
+if ever again war may become a necessity. Please to
+accept this from your most grateful humble servant,</p>
+
+<p class="sig">&ldquo;<span class="smcap">W. J. Tynan</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But I had other friends in the Crimea&mdash;friends who
+could never thank me. Some of them lay in their last
+sleep, beneath indistinguishable mounds of earth; some in
+the half-filled trenches, a few beneath the blue waters of
+the Euxine. I might in vain attempt to gather the wild
+flowers which sprung up above many of their graves, but
+I knew where some lay, and could visit their last homes
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg&nbsp;195]</a></span>
+on earth. And to all the cemeteries where friends rested so
+calmly, sleeping well after a life&rsquo;s work nobly done, I
+went many times, lingering long over many a mound that
+bore the names of those whom I had been familiar with
+in life, thinking of what they had been, and what I had
+known of them. Over some I planted shrubs and flowers,
+little lilac trees, obtained with no small trouble, and flowering
+evergreens, which looked quite gay and pretty ere I left,
+and may in time become great trees, and witness strange
+scenes, or be cut down as fuel for another besieging army&mdash;who
+can tell? And from many graves I picked up pebbles,
+and plucked simple wild-flowers, or tufts of grass, as
+memorials for relatives at home. How pretty the cemeteries
+used to look beneath the blue peaceful sky; neatly
+enclosed with stone walls, and full of the grave-stones
+reared by friends over friends. I met many here, thoughtfully
+taking their last look of the resting-places of those
+they knew and loved. I saw many a proud head bowed
+down above them. I knew that many a proud heart laid
+aside its pride here, and stood in the presence of death,
+humble and childlike. And by the clasped hand and
+moistened eye, I knew that from many a heart sped upward
+a grateful prayer to the Providence which had
+thought fit in his judgment to take some, and in his
+mercy to spare the rest.</p>
+
+<p>Some three weeks before the Crimea was finally evacuated,
+we moved from our old quarters to Balaclava, where
+we had obtained permission to fit up a store for the short
+time which would elapse before the last red coat left
+Russian soil. The poor old British Hotel! We could do
+nothing with it. The iron house was pulled down, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg&nbsp;196]</a></span>
+packed up for conveyance home, but the Russians got all of
+the out-houses and sheds which was not used as fuel. All
+the kitchen fittings and stoves, that had cost us so much,
+fell also into their hands. I only wish some cook worthy
+to possess them has them now. We could sell nothing.
+Our horses were almost given away, our large stores of
+provisions, etc., were at any one&rsquo;s service. It makes my
+heart sick to talk of the really alarming sacrifices we made.
+The Russians crowded down ostensibly to purchase, in
+reality to plunder. Prime cheeses, which had cost us tenpence
+a pound, were sold to them for less than a penny a pound;
+for wine, for which we had paid forty-eight shillings a
+dozen, they bid four shillings. I could not stand this, and
+in a fit of desperation, I snatched up a hammer and broke
+up case after case, while the bystanders held out their
+hands and caught the ruby stream. It may have been
+wrong, but I was too excited to think. There was no
+more of my own people to give it to, and I would rather
+not present it to our old foes.</p>
+
+<p>We were among the last to leave the Crimea. Before
+going I borrowed a horse, easy enough now, and rode up
+the old well-known road&mdash;how unfamiliar in its loneliness
+and quiet&mdash;to Cathcart&rsquo;s Hill. I wished once more to impress
+the scene upon my mind. It was a beautifully clear
+evening, and we could see miles away across the darkening
+sea. I spent some time there with my companions, pointing
+out to each other the sites of scenes we all remembered
+so well. There were the trenches, already becoming indistinguishable,
+out of which, on the 8th of September, we
+had seen the storming parties tumble in confused and
+scattered bodies, before they ran up the broken height of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg&nbsp;197]</a></span>
+the Redan. There the Malakhoff, into which we had also
+seen the luckier French pour in one unbroken stream;
+below lay the crumbling city and the quiet harbour, with
+scarce a ripple on its surface, while around stretched
+away the deserted huts for miles. It was with something
+like regret that we said to one another that the play was
+fairly over, that peace had rung the curtain down, and that
+we, humble actors in some of its most stirring scenes, must
+seek engagements elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>I lingered behind, and stooping down, once more
+gathered little tufts of grass, and some simple blossoms
+from above the graves of some who in life had been very
+kind to me, and I left behind, in exchange, a few tears
+which were sincere.</p>
+
+<p>A few days latter, and I stood on board a crowded
+steamer, taking my last look of the shores of the Crimea.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONCLUSION" id="CONCLUSION"></a>CONCLUSION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>I did not return to England by the most direct route, but
+took the opportunity of seeing more of men and manners
+in yet other lands. Arrived in England at last, we set to
+work bravely at Aldershott to retrieve our fallen fortunes,
+and stem off the ruin originated in the Crimea, but all in
+vain; and at last defeated by fortune, but not I think disgraced,
+we were obliged to capitulate on very honourable
+conditions. In plain truth, the old Crimean firm of Seacole
+and Day was dissolved finally, and its partners had to
+recommence the world anew. And so ended <em>our</em> campaign.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg&nbsp;198]</a></span>
+One of us started only the other day for the Antipodes,
+while the other is ready to take any journey to any place
+where a stout heart and two experienced hands may be
+of use.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps it would be right if I were to express more
+shame and annoyance than I really feel at the pecuniarily
+disastrous issue of my Crimean adventures, but I cannot&mdash;I
+really cannot. When I would try and feel ashamed of
+myself for being poor and helpless, I only experience a
+glow of pride at the other and more pleasing events of my
+career; when I think of the few whom I failed to pay in
+full (and so far from blaming me some of them are now
+my firmest friends), I cannot help remembering also the
+many who profess themselves indebted to me.</p>
+
+<p>Let me, in as few words as possible, state the results
+of my Crimean campaign. To be sure, I returned from it
+shaken in health. I came home wounded, as many others
+did. Few constitutions, indeed, were the better for those
+winters before Sebastopol, and I was too hard worked not
+to feel their effects; for a little labour fatigues me now&mdash;I
+cannot watch by sick-beds as I could&mdash;a week&rsquo;s want of
+rest quite knocks me up now. Then I returned bankrupt
+in fortune. Whereas others in my position may have come
+back to England rich and prosperous, I found myself
+poor&mdash;beggared. So few words can tell what I have lost.</p>
+
+<p>But what have I gained? I should need a volume to
+describe that fairly; so much is it, and so cheaply purchased
+by suffering ten times worse than what I have experienced.
+I have more than once heard people say that they would
+gladly suffer illness to enjoy the delights of convalescence,
+and so, by enduring a few days&rsquo; pain, gain the tender love
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg&nbsp;199]</a></span>
+of relatives and sympathy of friends. And on this principle
+I rejoice in the trials which have borne me such
+pleasures as those I now enjoy, for wherever I go I am
+sure to meet some smiling face; every step I take in the
+crowded London streets may bring me in contact with
+some friend, forgotten by me, perhaps, but who soon
+reminds me of our old life before Sebastopol; it seems
+very long ago now, when I was of use to him and he
+to me.</p>
+
+<p>Where, indeed, do I not find friends. In omnibuses,
+in river steamboats, in places of public amusement, in
+quiet streets and courts, where taking short cuts I lose my
+way oft-times, spring up old familiar faces to remind me of
+the months spent on Spring Hill. The sentries at Whitehall
+relax from the discharge of their important duty of
+guarding nothing to give me a smile of recognition; the
+very newspaper offices look friendly as I pass them by;
+busy Printing-house Yard puts on a cheering smile, and
+the <i>Punch</i> office in Fleet Street sometimes laughs outright.
+Now, would all this have happened if I had returned to
+England a rich woman? Surely not.</p>
+
+<p>A few words more ere I bring these egotistical remarks
+to a close. It is naturally with feelings of pride and pleasure
+that I allude to the committee recently organized to
+aid me; and if I indulge in the vanity of placing their
+names before my readers, it is simply because every one of
+the following noblemen and gentlemen knew me in the
+Crimea, and by consenting to assist me now record publicly
+their opinion of my services there. And yet I may reasonably
+on other grounds be proud of the fact, that it has
+been stated publicly that my present embarrassments
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg&nbsp;200]</a></span>
+originated in my charities and incessant labours among the
+army, by</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+Major-General Lord Rokeby, K.C.B.<br />
+H.S.H. Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, C.B.<br />
+His Grace the Duke of Wellington.<br />
+His Grace the Duke of Newcastle.<br />
+The Right Hon. Lord Ward.<br />
+General Sir John Burgoyne, K.C.B.<br />
+Major-General Sir Richard Airey, K.C.B.<br />
+Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B.<br />
+Colonel M&rsquo;Murdo, C.B.<br />
+Colonel Chapman, C.B.<br />
+Lieutenant-Colonel Ridley, C.B.<br />
+Major the Hon. F. Keane.<br />
+W. H. Russell, Esq. (<i>Times</i> Correspondent).<br />
+W. T. Doyne, Esq.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>THE END.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center" style="padding-top: 3em; padding-bottom: 3em;">London: Printed by Thomas Harrild, 11, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="bbox">
+<p><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p>
+
+<p>Minor typographic errors have been corrected without note.</p>
+
+<p>Page <a href="#Page_42">42</a>&mdash;omitted 'I' added&mdash;"I must do them credit to say, that they were never loath ..."</p>
+
+Page <a href="#Page_94">94</a>&mdash;omitted 'the' added&mdash;"... which is hired by the Government, at
+great cost ..."
+
+<p>There are also a few Scots words in this text. These include 'waesome',
+meaning sorrowful, woeful; and 'brash', meaning attack. Some archaic
+spelling is also used (for example, secresy), which has been retained.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole
+in Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 23031-h.htm or 23031-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/2/3/0/3/23031/
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/23031-h/images/seacole01.png b/23031-h/images/seacole01.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5cab0be
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-h/images/seacole01.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f001.png b/23031-page-images/f001.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a7ae527
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f001.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f002.png b/23031-page-images/f002.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ef4e8d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f002.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f003.png b/23031-page-images/f003.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e4ff30e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f003.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f004.png b/23031-page-images/f004.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..41e8870
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f004.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f005.png b/23031-page-images/f005.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..59d735d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f005.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f006.png b/23031-page-images/f006.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0a124a6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f006.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f007.png b/23031-page-images/f007.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fc1442e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f007.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f008.png b/23031-page-images/f008.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b4ee750
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f008.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f009.png b/23031-page-images/f009.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2813023
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f009.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/f010.png b/23031-page-images/f010.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..86eeb5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/f010.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p001.png b/23031-page-images/p001.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3383d28
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p001.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p002.png b/23031-page-images/p002.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..45579d7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p002.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p003.png b/23031-page-images/p003.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..44f68fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p003.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p004.png b/23031-page-images/p004.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0edffe9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p004.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p005.png b/23031-page-images/p005.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06bc2b7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p005.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p006.png b/23031-page-images/p006.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..10e68ce
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p006.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p007.png b/23031-page-images/p007.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8bea974
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p007.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p008.png b/23031-page-images/p008.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a07f821
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p008.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p009.png b/23031-page-images/p009.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cd298d3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p009.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p010.png b/23031-page-images/p010.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..59fd212
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p010.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p011.png b/23031-page-images/p011.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4d3a036
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p011.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p012.png b/23031-page-images/p012.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..255fcfe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p012.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p013.png b/23031-page-images/p013.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..95e3976
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p013.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p014.png b/23031-page-images/p014.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..14c8f38
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p014.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p015.png b/23031-page-images/p015.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cace9ea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p015.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p016.png b/23031-page-images/p016.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e1ba6e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p016.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p017.png b/23031-page-images/p017.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f5959d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p017.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p018.png b/23031-page-images/p018.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..270cff3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p018.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p019.png b/23031-page-images/p019.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..28a9ff2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p019.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p020.png b/23031-page-images/p020.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..28867a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p020.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p021.png b/23031-page-images/p021.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..46ee3cb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p021.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p022.png b/23031-page-images/p022.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1510a28
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p022.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p023.png b/23031-page-images/p023.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c359b8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p023.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p024.png b/23031-page-images/p024.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..167329b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p024.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p025.png b/23031-page-images/p025.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1939da9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p025.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p026.png b/23031-page-images/p026.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d63d191
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p026.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p027.png b/23031-page-images/p027.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..81e12d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p027.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p028.png b/23031-page-images/p028.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec71a18
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p028.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p029.png b/23031-page-images/p029.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..42e1851
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p029.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p030.png b/23031-page-images/p030.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f504fd1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p030.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p031.png b/23031-page-images/p031.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6f74f2d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p031.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p032.png b/23031-page-images/p032.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c539898
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p032.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p033.png b/23031-page-images/p033.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8488435
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p033.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p034.png b/23031-page-images/p034.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7c6ce50
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p034.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p035.png b/23031-page-images/p035.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27623a1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p035.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p036.png b/23031-page-images/p036.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..02a3c8b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p036.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p037.png b/23031-page-images/p037.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6750655
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p037.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p038.png b/23031-page-images/p038.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8081404
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p038.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p039.png b/23031-page-images/p039.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f8e6ff9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p039.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p040.png b/23031-page-images/p040.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..59d28b4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p040.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p041.png b/23031-page-images/p041.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ab2604
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p041.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p042.png b/23031-page-images/p042.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd67a96
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p042.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p043.png b/23031-page-images/p043.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..39b7946
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p043.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p044.png b/23031-page-images/p044.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..31897cf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p044.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p045.png b/23031-page-images/p045.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5387e3f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p045.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p046.png b/23031-page-images/p046.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..443efc5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p046.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p047.png b/23031-page-images/p047.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a494956
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p047.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p048.png b/23031-page-images/p048.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9fe1286
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p048.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p049.png b/23031-page-images/p049.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f129528
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p049.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p050.png b/23031-page-images/p050.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..165f20d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p050.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p051.png b/23031-page-images/p051.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3288498
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p051.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p052.png b/23031-page-images/p052.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..039c0fc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p052.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p053.png b/23031-page-images/p053.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ff212f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p053.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p054.png b/23031-page-images/p054.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f9ec72c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p054.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p055.png b/23031-page-images/p055.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..207b3f8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p055.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p056.png b/23031-page-images/p056.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8dccd1e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p056.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p057.png b/23031-page-images/p057.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0f64c5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p057.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p058.png b/23031-page-images/p058.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cb1fabc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p058.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p059.png b/23031-page-images/p059.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fd7cb7c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p059.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p060.png b/23031-page-images/p060.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5891ec6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p060.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p061.png b/23031-page-images/p061.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0e2988f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p061.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p062.png b/23031-page-images/p062.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..08f711c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p062.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p063.png b/23031-page-images/p063.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c02fd1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p063.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p064.png b/23031-page-images/p064.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..62fd883
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p064.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p065.png b/23031-page-images/p065.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b4624ab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p065.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p066.png b/23031-page-images/p066.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..417c729
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p066.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p067.png b/23031-page-images/p067.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2441ffc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p067.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p068.png b/23031-page-images/p068.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ca8917a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p068.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p069.png b/23031-page-images/p069.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7e23fe9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p069.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p070.png b/23031-page-images/p070.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0988e62
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p070.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p071.png b/23031-page-images/p071.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d287fff
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p071.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p072.png b/23031-page-images/p072.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b5decc9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p072.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p073.png b/23031-page-images/p073.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..20e27c8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p073.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p074.png b/23031-page-images/p074.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1546f06
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p074.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p075.png b/23031-page-images/p075.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..440ac7b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p075.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p076.png b/23031-page-images/p076.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..605c96c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p076.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p077.png b/23031-page-images/p077.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3e7fafa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p077.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p078.png b/23031-page-images/p078.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4250d76
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p078.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p079.png b/23031-page-images/p079.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c5e0f95
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p079.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p080.png b/23031-page-images/p080.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dbd1e25
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p080.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p081.png b/23031-page-images/p081.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..90090d7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p081.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p082.png b/23031-page-images/p082.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0dcfc7b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p082.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p083.png b/23031-page-images/p083.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..24af66c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p083.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p084.png b/23031-page-images/p084.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..481dcab
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p084.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p085.png b/23031-page-images/p085.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7b0e198
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p085.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p086.png b/23031-page-images/p086.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4355922
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p086.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p087.png b/23031-page-images/p087.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c7058c7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p087.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p088.png b/23031-page-images/p088.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5555b94
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p088.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p089.png b/23031-page-images/p089.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7cd24e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p089.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p090.png b/23031-page-images/p090.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..02263ac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p090.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p091.png b/23031-page-images/p091.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..98e441f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p091.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p092.png b/23031-page-images/p092.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d13387c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p092.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p093.png b/23031-page-images/p093.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b9dea1e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p093.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p094.png b/23031-page-images/p094.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8848dcc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p094.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p095.png b/23031-page-images/p095.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a92e1d2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p095.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p096.png b/23031-page-images/p096.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c1fced6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p096.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p097.png b/23031-page-images/p097.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..05f8df6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p097.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p098.png b/23031-page-images/p098.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e55bbe2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p098.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p099.png b/23031-page-images/p099.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..42732f6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p099.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p100.png b/23031-page-images/p100.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f58bec3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p100.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p101.png b/23031-page-images/p101.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..48dd86d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p101.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p102.png b/23031-page-images/p102.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..33dbf69
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p102.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p103.png b/23031-page-images/p103.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..57a3491
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p103.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p104.png b/23031-page-images/p104.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a3c5814
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p104.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p105.png b/23031-page-images/p105.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4e7ab94
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p105.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p106.png b/23031-page-images/p106.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..145ed42
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p106.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p107.png b/23031-page-images/p107.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..570fdb0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p107.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p108.png b/23031-page-images/p108.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5802c55
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p108.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p109.png b/23031-page-images/p109.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb20e0b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p109.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p110.png b/23031-page-images/p110.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c543ef
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p110.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p111.png b/23031-page-images/p111.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27b11e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p111.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p112.png b/23031-page-images/p112.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c25dfc0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p112.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p113.png b/23031-page-images/p113.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..073f0f8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p113.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p114.png b/23031-page-images/p114.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fb63e74
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p114.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p115.png b/23031-page-images/p115.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56b36b9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p115.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p116.png b/23031-page-images/p116.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ce47794
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p116.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p117.png b/23031-page-images/p117.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4d7e034
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p117.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p118.png b/23031-page-images/p118.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f57c02b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p118.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p119.png b/23031-page-images/p119.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0629e53
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p119.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p120.png b/23031-page-images/p120.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1832f5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p120.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p121.png b/23031-page-images/p121.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..46b59c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p121.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p122.png b/23031-page-images/p122.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..616a826
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p122.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p123.png b/23031-page-images/p123.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4267555
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p123.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p124.png b/23031-page-images/p124.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..72c983e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p124.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p125.png b/23031-page-images/p125.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1ad7f78
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p125.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p126.png b/23031-page-images/p126.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36f35f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p126.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p127.png b/23031-page-images/p127.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c99359e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p127.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p128.png b/23031-page-images/p128.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f5258a5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p128.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p129.png b/23031-page-images/p129.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b1a2433
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p129.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p130.png b/23031-page-images/p130.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5f8c88b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p130.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p131.png b/23031-page-images/p131.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0db027
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p131.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p132.png b/23031-page-images/p132.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ec9b859
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p132.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p133.png b/23031-page-images/p133.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..36e624d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p133.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p134.png b/23031-page-images/p134.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2b6860
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p134.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p135.png b/23031-page-images/p135.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d0ccc06
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p135.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p136.png b/23031-page-images/p136.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4079ef1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p136.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p137.png b/23031-page-images/p137.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..772583e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p137.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p138.png b/23031-page-images/p138.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..49ff178
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p138.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p139.png b/23031-page-images/p139.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6e0e56d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p139.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p140.png b/23031-page-images/p140.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d8b475a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p140.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p141.png b/23031-page-images/p141.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5a9b8e1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p141.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p142.png b/23031-page-images/p142.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4f76a2e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p142.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p143.png b/23031-page-images/p143.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1333c9f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p143.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p144.png b/23031-page-images/p144.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed6211b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p144.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p145.png b/23031-page-images/p145.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ad54b56
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p145.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p146.png b/23031-page-images/p146.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..32002d9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p146.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p147.png b/23031-page-images/p147.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7fb50bf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p147.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p148.png b/23031-page-images/p148.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b74ad2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p148.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p149.png b/23031-page-images/p149.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b6e45d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p149.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p150.png b/23031-page-images/p150.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8263410
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p150.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p151.png b/23031-page-images/p151.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a1cc067
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p151.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p152.png b/23031-page-images/p152.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b87515f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p152.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p153.png b/23031-page-images/p153.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e90aaa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p153.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p154.png b/23031-page-images/p154.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a3f8761
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p154.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p155.png b/23031-page-images/p155.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3b96019
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p155.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p156.png b/23031-page-images/p156.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..39f5f7a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p156.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p157.png b/23031-page-images/p157.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..22daed3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p157.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p158.png b/23031-page-images/p158.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e08a2e3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p158.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p159.png b/23031-page-images/p159.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..191ed13
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p159.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p160.png b/23031-page-images/p160.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aa24e89
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p160.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p161.png b/23031-page-images/p161.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c69b82f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p161.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p162.png b/23031-page-images/p162.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..65deab9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p162.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p163.png b/23031-page-images/p163.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..84c0d0f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p163.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p164.png b/23031-page-images/p164.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fab6762
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p164.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p165.png b/23031-page-images/p165.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..27b4aa7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p165.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p166.png b/23031-page-images/p166.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..638fe5d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p166.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p167.png b/23031-page-images/p167.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..73b3e37
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p167.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p168.png b/23031-page-images/p168.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0de93a9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p168.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p169.png b/23031-page-images/p169.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e51f4f9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p169.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p170.png b/23031-page-images/p170.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3726b30
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p170.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p171.png b/23031-page-images/p171.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fc2c2d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p171.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p172.png b/23031-page-images/p172.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d5ce96e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p172.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p173.png b/23031-page-images/p173.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3aa77ed
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p173.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p174.png b/23031-page-images/p174.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3576021
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p174.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p175.png b/23031-page-images/p175.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d52bf54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p175.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p176.png b/23031-page-images/p176.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bce990b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p176.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p177.png b/23031-page-images/p177.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dd5d264
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p177.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p178.png b/23031-page-images/p178.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3cfe41c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p178.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p179.png b/23031-page-images/p179.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..038b470
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p179.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p180.png b/23031-page-images/p180.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..143a425
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p180.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p181.png b/23031-page-images/p181.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..14b5a07
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p181.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p182.png b/23031-page-images/p182.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..42872c5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p182.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p183.png b/23031-page-images/p183.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dac47b7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p183.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p184.png b/23031-page-images/p184.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f657824
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p184.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p185.png b/23031-page-images/p185.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a41dc52
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p185.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p186.png b/23031-page-images/p186.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0bd6d27
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p186.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p187.png b/23031-page-images/p187.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7756e00
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p187.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p188.png b/23031-page-images/p188.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0e8d7a1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p188.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p189.png b/23031-page-images/p189.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..976901b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p189.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p190.png b/23031-page-images/p190.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9c671d2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p190.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p191.png b/23031-page-images/p191.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ceac0d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p191.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p192.png b/23031-page-images/p192.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd2a199
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p192.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p193.png b/23031-page-images/p193.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9a0171f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p193.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p194.png b/23031-page-images/p194.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8f96697
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p194.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p195.png b/23031-page-images/p195.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6915ec3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p195.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p196.png b/23031-page-images/p196.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1a6b4a2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p196.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p197.png b/23031-page-images/p197.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..90b51d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p197.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p198.png b/23031-page-images/p198.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..09e5a8a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p198.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p199.png b/23031-page-images/p199.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..21c082c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p199.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p200.png b/23031-page-images/p200.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..15408c7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p200.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p202.png b/23031-page-images/p202.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c79a509
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p202.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p203.png b/23031-page-images/p203.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9aa8259
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p203.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p204.png b/23031-page-images/p204.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d6239ce
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p204.png
diff --git a/23031-page-images/p205.png b/23031-page-images/p205.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..335560f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031-page-images/p205.png
diff --git a/23031.txt b/23031.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a39a679
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6373 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in
+Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in Many Lands
+
+Author: Mary Seacole
+
+Commentator: W. H. Russell
+
+Editor: W. J. S.
+
+Release Date: October 14, 2007 [EBook #23031]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                WONDERFUL
+         ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE
+              IN MANY LANDS
+
+
+             EDITED BY W. J. S.
+
+
+        WITH AN INTRODUCTORY PREFACE
+
+                   BY
+
+            W. H. RUSSELL, ESQ.,
+
+  THE "TIMES" CORRESPONDENT IN THE CRIMEA.
+
+
+                   LONDON:
+       JAMES BLACKWOOD, PATERNOSTER ROW.
+                    1857.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MRS. SEACOLE'S HOTEL IN THE CRIMEA.]
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+THOMAS HARRILD, PRINTER, 11, SALISBURY SQUARE,
+FLEET STREET.
+
+
+
+
+      DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION,
+
+                TO
+
+  MAJOR-GENERAL LORD ROKEBY, K.C.B.,
+
+         BY HIS LORDSHIP'S
+
+  HUMBLE AND MOST GRATEFUL SERVANT,
+
+                      MARY SEACOLE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE READER.
+
+
+I should have thought that no preface would have been required to
+introduce Mrs. Seacole to the British public, or to recommend a book
+which must, from the circumstances in which the subject of it was
+placed, be unique in literature.
+
+If singleness of heart, true charity, and Christian works; if trials
+and sufferings, dangers and perils, encountered boldly by a helpless
+woman on her errand of mercy in the camp and in the battle-field, can
+excite sympathy or move curiosity, Mary Seacole will have many friends
+and many readers.
+
+She is no Anna Comnena, who presents us with a verbose history, but a
+plain truth-speaking woman, who has lived an adventurous life amid
+scenes which have never yet found a historian among the actors on the
+stage where they passed.
+
+I have witnessed her devotion and her courage; I have already borne
+testimony to her services to all who needed them. She is the first who
+has redeemed the name of "sutler" from the suspicion of worthlessness,
+mercenary baseness, and plunder; and I trust that England will not
+forget one who nursed her sick, who sought out her wounded to aid and
+succour them, and who performed the last offices for some of her
+illustrious dead.
+
+    W. H. RUSSELL.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+ My Birth and Parentage--Early Tastes and Travels--Marriage,
+ and Widowhood                                                   1
+
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+ Struggles for Life--The Cholera in Jamaica--I leave Kingston
+ for the Isthmus of Panama--Chagres, Navy Bay, and Gatun--Life
+ in Panama--Up the River Chagres to Gorgona and Cruces           6
+
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+ My Reception at the Independent Hotel--A Cruces Table
+ d'Hote--Life in Cruces--Amusements of the Crowds--A Novel
+ Four-post Bed                                                  17
+
+
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+ An Unwelcome Visitor in Cruces--The Cholera--Success of the
+ Yellow Doctress--Fearful Scene at the Mule-owner's--The
+ Burying Parties--The Cholera attacks me                        23
+
+
+ CHAPTER V.
+
+ American Sympathy--I take an Hotel in Cruces--My
+ Customers--Lola Montes--Miss Hayes and the Bishop--Gambling
+ in Cruces--Quarrels amongst the Travellers--New Granadan
+ Military--The Thieves of Cruces--A Narrow Escape               34
+
+
+ CHAPTER VI.
+
+ Migration to Gorgona--Farewell Dinners and Speeches--A
+ Building Speculation--Life in Gorgona--Sympathy with
+ American Slaves--Dr. Casey in Trouble--Floods and
+ Fires--Yankee Independence and Freedom                         46
+
+
+ CHAPTER VII.
+
+ The Yellow Fever in Jamaica--My Experience of Death-bed
+ Scenes--I leave again for Navy Bay, and open a Store
+ there--I am attacked with the Gold Fever, and start for
+ Escribanos--Life in the Interior of the Republic of New
+ Granada--A Revolutionary Conspiracy on a small scale--The
+ Dinner Delicacies of Escribanos--Journey up the Palmilla
+ River--A Few Words on the Present Aspect of Affairs on the
+ Isthmus of Panama                                              59
+
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ I long to join the British Army before Sebastopol--My
+ Wanderings about London for that purpose--How I
+ failed--Establishment of the Firm of "Day and Martin"--I
+ Embark for Turkey                                              73
+
+
+ CHAPTER IX.
+
+ Voyage to Constantinople--Malta--Gibraltar--Constantinople,
+ and what I thought of it--Visit to Scutari Hospital--Miss
+ Nightingale                                                    82
+
+
+ CHAPTER X.
+
+ "Jew Johnny"--I Start for Balaclava--Kindness of my old
+ Friends--On Board the "Medora"--My Life on Shore--The
+ Sick Wharf                                                     92
+
+
+ CHAPTER XI.
+
+ Alarms in the Harbour--Getting the Stores on Shore--Robbery
+ by Night and Day--The Predatory Tribes of Balaclava--Activity
+ of the Authorities--We obtain leave to erect our
+ Store, and fix upon Spring Hill as its Site--The Turkish
+ Pacha--The Flood--Our Carpenters--I become an English
+ Schoolmistress Abroad                                         102
+
+
+ CHAPTER XII.
+
+ The British Hotel--Domestic Difficulties--Our Enemies--The
+ Russian Rats--Adventures in Search of a Cat--Light-fingered
+ Zouaves--Crimean Thieves--Powdering a Horse                   113
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ My Work in the Crimea                                         124
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ My Customers at the British Hotel                             135
+
+
+ CHAPTER XV.
+
+ My First Glimpse of War--Advance of my Turkish Friends on
+ Kamara--Visitors to the Camp--Miss Nightingale--Mons.
+ Soyer and the Cholera--Summer in the Crimea--"Thirsty
+ Souls"--Death busy in the Trenches                            146
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ Under Fire on the fatal 18th of June--Before the
+ Redan--At the Cemetery--The Armistice--Deaths at
+ Head-quarters--Depression in the Camp--Plenty in the
+ Crimea--The Plague of Flies--Under Fire at the Battle
+ of the Tchernaya--Work on the Field--My Patients              154
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVII.
+
+ Inside Sebastopol--The Last Bombardment of Sebastopol--On
+ Cathcart's Hill--Rumours in the Camp--The Attack on the
+ Malakhoff--The Old Work again--A Sunday Excursion--Inside
+ "Our" City--I am taken for a Spy, and thereat lose my
+ Temper--I Visit the Redan, etc.--My Share of the Plunder      167
+
+
+ CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ Holiday in the Camp--A New Enemy, Time--Amusements in
+ the Crimea--My share in them--Dinner at Spring Hill--At
+ the Races--Christmas Day in the British Hotel--New
+ Year's Day in the Hospital                                    177
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIX.
+
+ New Year in the Crimea--Good News--The Armistice--Barter
+ with the Russians--War and Peace--Tidings of Peace--Excursions
+ into the Interior of the Crimea--To Simpheropol,
+ Baktchiserai, etc.--The Troops begin to leave the
+ Crimea--Friends' Farewells--The Cemeteries--We remove
+ from Spring Hill to Balaclava--Alarming Sacrifice of our
+ Stock--A last Glimpse of Sebastopol--Home!                    188
+
+
+ Conclusion                                                    197
+
+
+
+
+ADVENTURES OF MRS. SEACOLE
+IN MANY LANDS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    MY BIRTH AND PARENTAGE--EARLY TASTES AND
+    TRAVELS--MARRIAGE, AND WIDOWHOOD.
+
+
+I was born in the town of Kingston, in the island of Jamaica, some
+time in the present century. As a female, and a widow, I may be well
+excused giving the precise date of this important event. But I do not
+mind confessing that the century and myself were both young together,
+and that we have grown side by side into age and consequence. I am a
+Creole, and have good Scotch blood coursing in my veins. My father was
+a soldier, of an old Scotch family; and to him I often trace my
+affection for a camp-life, and my sympathy with what I have heard my
+friends call "the pomp, pride, and circumstance of glorious war." Many
+people have also traced to my Scotch blood that energy and activity
+which are not always found in the Creole race, and which have carried
+me to so many varied scenes: and perhaps they are right. I have often
+heard the term "lazy Creole" applied to my country people; but I am
+sure I do not know what it is to be indolent. All my life long I have
+followed the impulse which led me to be up and doing; and so far from
+resting idle anywhere, I have never wanted inclination to rove, nor
+will powerful enough to find a way to carry out my wishes. That these
+qualities have led me into many countries, and brought me into some
+strange and amusing adventures, the reader, if he or she has the
+patience to get through this book, will see. Some people, indeed, have
+called me quite a female Ulysses. I believe that they intended it as a
+compliment; but from my experience of the Greeks, I do not consider it
+a very flattering one.
+
+It is not my intention to dwell at any length upon the recollections
+of my childhood. My mother kept a boarding-house in Kingston, and was,
+like very many of the Creole women, an admirable doctress; in high
+repute with the officers of both services, and their wives, who were
+from time to time stationed at Kingston. It was very natural that I
+should inherit her tastes; and so I had from early youth a yearning
+for medical knowledge and practice which has never deserted me. When I
+was a very young child I was taken by an old lady, who brought me up
+in her household among her own grandchildren, and who could scarcely
+have shown me more kindness had I been one of them; indeed, I was so
+spoiled by my kind patroness that, but for being frequently with my
+mother, I might very likely have grown up idle and useless. But I saw
+so much of her, and of her patients, that the ambition to become a
+doctress early took firm root in my mind; and I was very young when I
+began to make use of the little knowledge I had acquired from watching
+my mother, upon a great sufferer--my doll. I have noticed always what
+actors children are. If you leave one alone in a room, how soon it
+clears a little stage; and, making an audience out of a few chairs and
+stools, proceeds to act its childish griefs and blandishments upon its
+doll. So I also made good use of my dumb companion and confidante; and
+whatever disease was most prevalent in Kingston, be sure my poor doll
+soon contracted it. I have had many medical triumphs in later days,
+and saved some valuable lives; but I really think that few have given
+me more real gratification than the rewarding glow of health which my
+fancy used to picture stealing over my patient's waxen face after long
+and precarious illness.
+
+Before long it was very natural that I should seek to extend my
+practice; and so I found other patients in the dogs and cats around
+me. Many luckless brutes were made to simulate diseases which were
+raging among their owners, and had forced down their reluctant throats
+the remedies which I deemed most likely to suit their supposed
+complaints. And after a time I rose still higher in my ambition; and
+despairing of finding another human patient, I proceeded to try my
+simples and essences upon--myself.
+
+When I was about twelve years old I was more frequently at my mother's
+house, and used to assist her in her duties; very often sharing with
+her the task of attending upon invalid officers or their wives, who
+came to her house from the adjacent camp at Up-Park, or the military
+station at Newcastle.
+
+As I grew into womanhood, I began to indulge that longing to travel
+which will never leave me while I have health and vigour. I was never
+weary of tracing upon an old map the route to England; and never
+followed with my gaze the stately ships homeward bound without longing
+to be in them, and see the blue hills of Jamaica fade into the
+distance. At that time it seemed most improbable that these girlish
+wishes should be gratified; but circumstances, which I need not
+explain, enabled me to accompany some relatives to England while I was
+yet a very young woman.
+
+I shall never forget my first impressions of London. Of course, I am
+not going to bore the reader with them; but they are as vivid now as
+though the year 18-- (I had very nearly let my age slip then) had not
+been long ago numbered with the past. Strangely enough, some of the
+most vivid of my recollections are the efforts of the London
+street-boys to poke fun at my and my companion's complexion. I am only
+a little brown--a few shades duskier than the brunettes whom you all
+admire so much; but my companion was very dark, and a fair (if I can
+apply the term to her) subject for their rude wit. She was
+hot-tempered, poor thing! and as there were no policemen to awe the
+boys and turn our servants' heads in those days, our progress through
+the London streets was sometimes a rather chequered one.
+
+I remained in England, upon the occasion of my first visit, about a
+year; and then returned to Kingston. Before long I again started for
+London, bringing with me this time a large stock of West Indian
+preserves and pickles for sale. After remaining two years here, I
+again started home; and on the way my life and adventures were very
+nearly brought to a premature conclusion. Christmas-day had been kept
+very merrily on board our ship the "Velusia;" and on the following day
+a fire broke out in the hold. I dare say it would have resisted all
+the crew's efforts to put it out, had not another ship appeared in
+sight; upon which the fire quietly allowed itself to be extinguished.
+Although considerably alarmed, I did not lose my senses; but during
+the time when the contest between fire and water was doubtful, I
+entered into an amicable arrangement with the ship's cook, whereby, in
+consideration of two pounds--which I was not, however, to pay until
+the crisis arrived--he agreed to lash me on to a large hen-coop.
+
+Before I had been long in Jamaica I started upon other trips, many of
+them undertaken with a view to gain. Thus I spent some time in New
+Providence, bringing home with me a large collection of handsome
+shells and rare shell-work, which created quite a sensation in
+Kingston, and had a rapid sale; I visited also Hayti and Cuba. But I
+hasten onward in my narrative.
+
+Returned to Kingston, I nursed my old indulgent patroness in her last
+long illness. After she died, in my arms, I went to my mother's house,
+where I stayed, making myself useful in a variety of ways, and
+learning a great deal of Creole medicinal art, until I couldn't find
+courage to say "no" to a certain arrangement timidly proposed by Mr.
+Seacole, but married him, and took him down to Black River, where we
+established a store. Poor man! he was very delicate; and before I
+undertook the charge of him, several doctors had expressed most
+unfavourable opinions of his health. I kept him alive by kind nursing
+and attention as long as I could; but at last he grew so ill that we
+left Black River, and returned to my mother's house at Kingston.
+Within a month of our arrival there he died. This was my first great
+trouble, and I felt it bitterly. For days I never stirred--lost to all
+that passed around me in a dull stupor of despair. If you had told me
+that the time would soon come when I should remember this sorrow
+calmly, I should not have believed it possible: and yet it was so. I
+do not think that we hot-blooded Creoles sorrow less for showing it so
+impetuously; but I do think that the sharp edge of our grief wears
+down sooner than theirs who preserve an outward demeanour of calmness,
+and nurse their woe secretly in their hearts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    STRUGGLES FOR LIFE--THE CHOLERA IN JAMAICA--I LEAVE
+    KINGSTON FOR THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA--CHAGRES, NAVY BAY,
+    AND GATUN--LIFE IN PANAMA--UP THE RIVER CHAGRES TO
+    GORGONA AND CRUCES.
+
+
+I had one other great grief to master--the loss of my mother, and then
+I was left alone to battle with the world as best I might. The
+struggles which it cost me to succeed in life were sometimes very
+trying; nor have they ended yet. But I have always turned a bold front
+to fortune, and taken, and shall continue to take, as my brave friends
+in the army and navy have shown me how, "my hurts before." Although it
+was no easy thing for a widow to make ends meet, I never allowed
+myself to know what repining or depression was, and so succeeded in
+gaining not only my daily bread, but many comforts besides from the
+beginning. Indeed, my experience of the world--it is not finished yet,
+but I do not think it will give me reason to change my opinion--leads
+me to the conclusion that it is by no means the hard bad world which
+some selfish people would have us believe it. It may be as my editor
+says--
+
+    "That gently comes the world to those
+    That are cast in gentle mould;"
+
+hinting at the same time, politely, that the rule may apply to me
+personally. And perhaps he is right, for although I was always a
+hearty, strong woman--plain-spoken people might say stout--I think my
+heart is soft enough.
+
+How slowly and gradually I succeeded in life, need not be told at
+length. My fortunes underwent the variations which befall all.
+Sometimes I was rich one day, and poor the next. I never thought too
+exclusively of money, believing rather that we were born to be happy,
+and that the surest way to be wretched is to prize it overmuch. Had I
+done so, I should have mourned over many a promising speculation
+proving a failure, over many a pan of preserves or guava jelly burnt
+in the making; and perhaps lost my mind when the great fire of 1843,
+which devastated Kingston, burnt down my poor home. As it was, I very
+nearly lost my life, for I would not leave my house until every chance
+of saving it had gone, and it was wrapped in flames. But, of course, I
+set to work again in a humbler way, and rebuilt my house by degrees,
+and restocked it, succeeding better than before; for I had gained a
+reputation as a skilful nurse and doctress, and my house was always
+full of invalid officers and their wives from Newcastle, or the
+adjacent Up-Park Camp. Sometimes I had a naval or military surgeon
+under my roof, from whom I never failed to glean instruction, given,
+when they learned my love for their profession, with a readiness and
+kindness I am never likely to forget. Many of these kind friends are
+alive now. I met with some when my adventures had carried me to the
+battle-fields of the Crimea; and to those whose eyes may rest upon
+these pages I again offer my acknowledgments for their past kindness,
+which helped me to be useful to my kind in many lands.
+
+And here I may take the opportunity of explaining that it was from a
+confidence in my own powers, and not at all from necessity, that I
+remained an unprotected female. Indeed, I do not mind confessing to my
+reader, in a friendly confidential way, that one of the hardest
+struggles of my life in Kingston was to resist the pressing candidates
+for the late Mr. Seacole's shoes.
+
+Officers of high rank sometimes took up their abode in my house.
+Others of inferior rank were familiar with me, long before their
+bravery, and, alas! too often death, in the Crimea, made them world
+famous. There were few officers of the 97th to whom Mother Seacole was
+not well known, before she joined them in front of Sebastopol; and
+among the best known was good-hearted, loveable, noble H---- V----,
+whose death shocked me so terribly, and with whose useful heroic life
+the English public have become so familiar. I can hear the ring of his
+boyish laughter even now.
+
+In the year 1850, the cholera swept over the island of Jamaica with
+terrible force. Our idea--perhaps an unfounded one--was, that a
+steamer from New Orleans was the means of introducing it into the
+island. Anyhow, they sent some clothes on shore to be washed, and poor
+Dolly Johnson, the washerwoman, whom we all knew, sickened and died of
+the terrible disease. While the cholera raged, I had but too many
+opportunities of watching its nature, and from a Dr. B----, who was
+then lodging in my house, received many hints as to its treatment
+which I afterwards found invaluable.
+
+Early in the same year my brother had left Kingston for the Isthmus of
+Panama, then the great high-road to and from golden California, where
+he had established a considerable store and hotel. Ever since he had
+done so, I had found some difficulty in checking my reviving
+disposition to roam, and at last persuading myself that I might be of
+use to him (he was far from strong), I resigned my house into the
+hands of a cousin, and made arrangements to journey to Chagres. Having
+come to this conclusion, I allowed no grass to grow beneath my feet,
+but set to work busily, for I was not going to him empty-handed. My
+house was full for weeks, of tailors, making up rough coats, trousers,
+etc., and sempstresses cutting out and making shirts. In addition to
+these, my kitchen was filled with busy people, manufacturing
+preserves, guava jelly, and other delicacies, while a considerable sum
+was invested in the purchase of preserved meats, vegetables, and eggs.
+It will be as well, perhaps, if I explain, in as few words as
+possible, the then condition of the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+All my readers must know--a glance at the map will show it to those
+who do not--that between North America and the envied shores of
+California stretches a little neck of land, insignificant-looking
+enough on the map, dividing the Atlantic from the Pacific. By crossing
+this, the travellers from America avoided a long, weary, and dangerous
+sea voyage round Cape Horn, or an almost impossible journey by land.
+
+But that journey across the Isthmus, insignificant in distance as it
+was, was by no means an easy one. It seemed as if nature had
+determined to throw every conceivable obstacle in the way of those who
+should seek to join the two great oceans of the world. I have read and
+heard many accounts of old endeavours to effect this important and
+gigantic work, and how miserably they failed. It was reserved for the
+men of our age to accomplish what so many had died in attempting, and
+iron and steam, twin giants, subdued to man's will, have put a girdle
+over rocks and rivers, so that travellers can glide as smoothly, if
+not as inexpensively, over the once terrible Isthmus of Darien, as
+they can from London to Brighton. Not yet, however, does civilization,
+rule at Panama. The weak sway of the New Granada Republic, despised by
+lawless men, and respected by none, is powerless to control the refuse
+of every nation which meet together upon its soil. Whenever they feel
+inclined now they overpower the law easily; but seven years ago, when
+I visited the Isthmus of Panama, things were much worse, and a licence
+existed, compared to which the present lawless state of affairs is
+enviable.
+
+When, after passing Chagres, an old-world, tumble-down town, for about
+seven miles, the steamer reached Navy Bay, I thought I had never seen
+a more luckless, dreary spot. Three sides of the place were a mere
+swamp, and the town itself stood upon a sand-reef, the houses being
+built upon piles, which some one told me rotted regularly every three
+years. The railway, which now connects the bay with Panama, was then
+building, and ran, as far as we could see, on piles, connected with
+the town by a wooden jetty. It seemed as capital a nursery for ague
+and fever as Death could hit upon anywhere, and those on board the
+steamer who knew it confirmed my opinion. As we arrived a steady
+down-pour of rain was falling from an inky sky; the white men who met
+us on the wharf appeared ghostly and wraith-like, and the very negroes
+seemed pale and wan. The news which met us did not tempt me to lose
+any time in getting up the country to my brother. According to all
+accounts, fever and ague, with some minor diseases, especially dropsy,
+were having it all their own way at Navy Bay, and, although I only
+stayed one night in the place, my medicine chest was called into
+requisition. But the sufferers wanted remedies which I could not give
+them--warmth, nourishment, and fresh air. Beneath leaky tents, damp
+huts, and even under broken railway waggons, I saw men dying from
+sheer exhaustion. Indeed, I was very glad when, with the morning, the
+crowd, as the Yankees called the bands of pilgrims to and from
+California, made ready to ascend to Panama.
+
+The first stage of our journey was by railway to Gatun, about twelve
+miles distant. For the greater portion of that distance the lines ran
+on piles, over as unhealthy and wretched a country as the eye could
+well grow weary of; but, at last, the country improved, and you caught
+glimpses of distant hills and English-like scenery. Every mile of that
+fatal railway cost the world thousands of lives. I was assured that
+its site was marked thickly by graves, and that so great was the
+mortality among the labourers that three times the survivors struck in
+a body, and their places had to be supplied by fresh victims from
+America, tempted by unheard-of rates of wages. It is a gigantic
+undertaking, and shows what the energy and enterprise of man can
+accomplish. Everything requisite for its construction, even the
+timber, had to be prepared in, and brought from, America.
+
+The railway then ran no further than Gatun, and here we were to take
+water and ascend the River Chagres to Gorgona, the next stage on the
+way to Cruces, where my brother was. The cars landed us at the bottom
+of a somewhat steep cutting through a reddish clay, and deposited me
+and my suite, consisting of a black servant, named "Mac," and a little
+girl, in safety in the midst of my many packages, not altogether
+satisfied with my prospects; for the rain was falling heavily and
+steadily, and the Gatun porters were possessing themselves of my
+luggage with that same avidity which distinguishes their brethren on
+the pier of Calais or the quays of Pera. There are two species of
+individuals whom I have found alike wherever my travels have carried
+me--the reader can guess their professions--porters and lawyers.
+
+It was as much as I could do to gather my packages together, sit in
+the midst with a determined look to awe the hungry crowd around me,
+and send "Mac" up the steep slippery bank to report progress. After a
+little while he returned to say that the river-side was not far off,
+where boats could be hired for the upward journey. The word given, the
+porters threw themselves upon my packages; a pitched battle ensued,
+out of which issued the strongest Spanish Indians, with their hardly
+earned prizes, and we commenced the ascent of the clayey bank. Now,
+although the surveyors of the Darien highways had considerately cut
+steps up the steep incline, they had become worse than useless, so I
+floundered about terribly, more than once losing my footing
+altogether. And as with that due regard to personal appearance, which
+I have always deemed a duty as well as a pleasure to study, I had,
+before leaving Navy Bay, attired myself in a delicate light blue
+dress, a white bonnet prettily trimmed, and an equally chaste shawl,
+the reader can sympathise with my distress. However, I gained the
+summit, and after an arduous descent, of a few minutes duration,
+reached the river-side; in a most piteous plight, however, for my
+pretty dress, from its contact with the Gatun clay, looked as red as
+if, in the pursuit of science, I had passed it through a strong
+solution of muriatic acid.
+
+By the water-side I found my travelling companions arguing angrily
+with the shrewd boatmen, and bating down their fares. Upon collecting
+my luggage, I found, as I had expected, that the porters had not
+neglected the glorious opportunity of robbing a woman, and that
+several articles were missing. Complaints, I knew, would not avail me,
+and stronger measures seemed hazardous and barely advisable in a
+lawless out-of-the-way spot, where
+
+              "The simple plan,
+    That they should take who have the power,
+    And they should keep who can,"
+
+seemed universally practised, and would very likely have been defended
+by its practitioners upon principle.
+
+It was not so easy to hire a boat as I had been led to expect. The
+large crowd had made the boatmen somewhat exorbitant in their demands,
+and there were several reasons why I should engage one for my own
+exclusive use, instead of sharing one with some of my travelling
+companions. In the first place, my luggage was somewhat bulky; and, in
+the second place, my experience of travel had not failed to teach me
+that Americans (even from the Northern States) are always
+uncomfortable in the company of coloured people, and very often show
+this feeling in stronger ways than by sour looks and rude words. I
+think, if I have a little prejudice against our cousins across the
+Atlantic--and I do confess to a little--it is not unreasonable. I have
+a few shades of deeper brown upon my skin which shows me related--and
+I am proud of the relationship--to those poor mortals whom you once
+held enslaved, and whose bodies America still owns. And having this
+bond, and knowing what slavery is; having seen with my eyes and heard
+with my ears proof positive enough of its horrors--let others affect
+to doubt them if they will--is it surprising that I should be somewhat
+impatient of the airs of superiority which many Americans have
+endeavoured to assume over me? Mind, I am not speaking of all. I have
+met with some delightful exceptions.
+
+At length I succeeded in hiring a boat for the modest consideration of
+ten pounds, to carry me and my fortunes to Cruces. My boat was far
+from uncomfortable. Large and flat-bottomed, with an awning, dirty it
+must be confessed, beneath which swung a hammock, of which I took
+immediate possession. By the way, the Central Americans should adopt
+the hammock as their national badge; but for sheer necessity they
+would never leave it. The master of the boat, the padrone, was a fine
+tall negro, his crew were four common enough specimens of humanity,
+with a marked disregard of the prejudices of society with respect to
+clothing. A dirty handkerchief rolled over the head, and a wisp of
+something, which might have been linen, bound round the loins, formed
+their attire. Perhaps, however, the thick coating of dirt which
+covered them kept them warmer than more civilized clothing, besides
+being indisputably more economical.
+
+The boat was generally propelled by paddles, but when the river was
+shallow, poles were used to punt us along, as on English rivers; the
+black padrone, whose superior position was indicated by the use of
+decent clothing, standing at the helm, gesticulating wildly, and
+swearing Spanish oaths with a vehemence that would have put Corporal
+Trim's comrades in Flanders to the blush. Very much shocked, of
+course, but finding it perfectly useless to remonstrate with him, I
+swung myself in my hammock and leisurely watched the river scene.
+
+The river Chagres lolled with considerable force, now between low
+marshy shores, now narrowing, between steep, thickly wooded banks. It
+was liable, as are all rivers in hilly districts, to sudden and heavy
+floods; and although the padrone, on leaving Gatun, had pledged his
+soul to land me at Cruces that night, I had not been long afloat
+before I saw that he would forfeit his worthless pledge; for the wind
+rose to a gale, ruffling the river here and there into a little sea;
+the rain came down in torrents, while the river rose rapidly, bearing
+down on its swollen stream trunks of trees, and similar waifs and
+strays, which it tossed about like a giant in sport, threatening to
+snag us with its playthings every moment. And when we came to a
+sheltered reach, and found that the little fleet of boats which had
+preceded us had laid to there, I came to the conclusion that, stiff,
+tired, and hungry, I should have to pass a night upon the river
+Chagres. All I could get to eat was some guavas, which grew wild upon
+the banks, and then I watched the padrone curl his long body up among
+my luggage, and listened to the crew, who had rolled together at the
+bottom of the boat, snore as peacefully as if they slept between fair
+linen sheets, in the purest of calico night-gear, and the most
+unexceptionable of nightcaps, until somehow I fell into a troubled,
+dreamy sleep.
+
+At daybreak we were enabled to pursue our journey, and in a short time
+reached Gorgona. I was glad enough to go on shore, as you may imagine.
+Gorgona was a mere temporary town of bamboo and wood houses, hastily
+erected to serve as a station for the crowd. In the present rainy
+season, when the river was navigable up to Cruces, the chief part of
+the population migrated thither, so that Gorgona was almost deserted,
+and looked indescribably damp, dirty, and dull. With some difficulty I
+found a bakery and a butcher's shop. The meat was not very tempting,
+for the Gorgona butchers did not trouble themselves about joints, but
+cut the flesh into strips about three inches wide, and of various
+lengths. These were hung upon rails, so that you bought your meat by
+the yard, and were spared any difficulty in the choice of joint. I
+cannot say that I was favourably impressed with this novel and simple
+way of avoiding trouble, but I was far too hungry to be particular,
+and buying a strip for a quarter of a real, carried it off to Mac to
+cook.
+
+Late that afternoon, the padrone and his crew landed me, tired,
+wretched, and out of temper, upon the miserable wharf of Cruces.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    MY RECEPTION AT THE INDEPENDENT HOTEL--A CRUCES TABLE
+    D'HOTE--LIFE IN CRUCES--AMUSEMENTS OF THE CROWDS--A
+    NOVEL FOUR-POST BED.
+
+
+The sympathising reader, who very likely has been laughing heartily at
+my late troubles, can fancy that I was looking forward with no little
+pleasurable anticipation to reaching my brother's cheerful home at
+Cruces. After the long night spent on board the wretched boat in my
+stiff, clayey dress, and the hours of fasting, the warmth and good
+cheer of the Independent Hotel could not fail to be acceptable. My
+brother met me on the rickety wharf with the kindest welcome in his
+face, although he did not attempt to conceal a smile at my forlorn
+appearance, and giving the necessary instructions about my luggage,
+led the way at once to his house, which was situated at the upper end
+of the street. A capital site, he said, when the rest of the town was
+under water--which agreeable variety occurred twice or thrice a year
+unexpectedly. On our way, he rather damped my hopes by expressing his
+fears that he should be unable to provide his sister with the
+accommodation he could wish. For you see, he said, the crowd from
+Panama has just come in, meeting your crowd from Navy Bay; and I
+shouldn't be at all surprised if very many of them have no better bed
+than the store floors. But, despite this warning, I was miserably
+unprepared for the reception that awaited me. To be sure, I found
+Cruces as like Gorgona, in its dampness, dirt, and confusion, as it
+well could be; but the crowd from the gold-fields of California had
+just arrived, having made the journey from Panama on mules, and the
+street was filled with motley groups in picturesque variety of attire.
+The hotels were also full of them, while many lounged in the verandahs
+after their day's journey. Rude, coarse gold-diggers, in gay-coloured
+shirts, and long, serviceable boots, elbowed, in perfect equality,
+keen Yankee speculators, as close shaven, neat, and clean on the
+Isthmus of Panama as in the streets of New York or New Orleans. The
+women alone kept aloof from each other, and well they might; for,
+while a very few seemed not ashamed of their sex, it was somewhat
+difficult to distinguish the majority from their male companions, save
+by their bolder and more reckless voice and manner. I must say,
+however, that many of them adopted male attire for the journey across
+the Isthmus only, as it spared them many compliments which their
+husbands were often disposed to resent, however flattering they might
+be to their choice.
+
+Through all these I pressed on, stiff, cold, and hungry, to the
+Independent Hotel, eagerly anticipating the comforts which awaited me
+there. At length we reached it. But, rest! warmth! comfort!--miserable
+delusions! Picture to yourself, sympathising reader, a long, low hut,
+built of rough, unhewn, unplaned logs, filled up with mud and split
+bamboo; a long, sloping roof and a large verandah, already full of
+visitors. And the interior: a long room, gaily hung with dirty
+calico, in stripes of red and white; above it another room, in which
+the guests slept, having the benefit of sharing in any orgies which
+might be going on below them, through the broad chinks between the
+rough, irregular planks which formed its floor. At the further end, a
+small corner, partitioned roughly off, formed a bar, and around it
+were shelves laden with stores for the travellers, while behind it was
+a little room used by my brother as his private apartment; but three
+female travellers had hired it for their own especial use for the
+night, paying the enormous sum of L10 for so exclusive a luxury. At
+the entrance sat a black man, taking toll of the comers-in, giving
+them in exchange for coin or gold-dust (he had a rusty pair of scales
+to weigh the latter) a dirty ticket, which guaranteed them supper, a
+night's lodging, and breakfast. I saw all this very quickly, and
+turned round upon my brother in angry despair.
+
+"What am I to do? Why did you ever bring me to this place? See what a
+state I am in--cold, hungry, and wretched. I want to wash, to change
+my clothes, to eat, to----"
+
+But poor Edward could only shrug his shoulders and shake his head, in
+answer to my indignant remonstrances. At last he made room for me in a
+corner of the crowded bar, set before me some food, and left me to
+watch the strange life I had come to; and before long I soon forgot my
+troubles in the novelty of my position.
+
+The difference between the passengers to and from California was very
+distinguishable. Those bound for the gold country were to a certain
+extent fresh from civilization, and had scarcely thrown off its
+control; whereas the homeward bound revelled in disgusting excess of
+licence. Although many of the women on their way to California showed
+clearly enough that the life of licence they sought would not be
+altogether unfamiliar to them, they still retained some appearance of
+decency in their attire and manner; but in many cases (as I have
+before said) the female companions of the successful gold-diggers
+appeared in no hurry to resume the dress or obligations of their sex.
+Many were clothed as the men were, in flannel shirt and boots; rode
+their mules in unfeminine fashion, but with much ease and courage; and
+in their conversation successfully rivalled the coarseness of their
+lords. I think, on the whole, that those French lady writers who
+desire to enjoy the privileges of man, with the irresponsibility of
+the other sex, would have been delighted with the disciples who were
+carrying their principles into practice in the streets of Cruces.
+
+The chief object of all the travellers seemed to be dinner or supper;
+I do not know what term they gave it. Down the entire length of the
+Independent Hotel ran a table covered with a green oilskin cloth, and
+at proper intervals were placed knives and forks, plates, and cups and
+saucers turned down; and when a new-comer received his ticket, and
+wished to secure his place for the coming repast, he would turn his
+plate, cup, and saucer up; which mode of reserving seats seemed
+respected by the rest. And as the evening wore on, the shouting and
+quarrelling at the doorway in Yankee twang increased momentarily;
+while some seated themselves at the table, and hammering upon it with
+the handles of their knives, hallooed out to the excited nigger cooks
+to make haste with the slapjack. Amidst all this confusion, my
+brother was quietly selling shirts, boots, trousers, etc., to the
+travellers; while above all the din could be heard the screaming
+voices of his touters without, drawing attention to the good cheer of
+the Independent Hotel. Over and over again, while I cowered in my snug
+corner, wishing to avoid the notice of all, did I wish myself safe
+back in my pleasant home in Kingston; but it was too late to find out
+my mistake now.
+
+At last the table was nearly filled with a motley assemblage of men
+and women, and the slapjack, hot and steaming, was carried in by the
+black cooks. The hungry diners welcomed its advent with a shout of
+delight; and yet it did not seem particularly tempting. But beyond all
+doubt it was a capital _piece de resistance_ for great eaters; and
+before the dinner was over, I saw ample reasons to induce any
+hotel-keeper to give it his patronage. In truth, it was a thick
+substantial pancake of flour, salt, and water--eggs were far too
+expensive to be used in its composition; and by the time the supply
+had disappeared, I thought the largest appetites must have been
+stayed. But it was followed by pork, strips of beef stewed with hard
+dumplings, hams, great dishes of rice, jugs of molasses and treacle
+for sauce; the whole being washed down with an abundance of tea and
+coffee. Chickens and eggs were provided for those who were prepared to
+pay for these luxuries of Panama life. But, so scarce and expensive
+were they, that, as I afterwards discovered, those hotel-keepers whose
+larders were so stocked would hang out a chicken upon their signposts,
+as a sure attraction for the richer and more reckless diggers; while
+the touter's cry of "Eggs and chickens here" was a very telling one.
+Wine and spirits were also obtainable, but were seldom taken by the
+Americans, who are abstemious abroad as well as at home.
+
+After dinner the store soon cleared. Gambling was a great attraction;
+but my brother, dreading its consequences with these hot-brained
+armed men, allowed none to take place in his hotel. So some lounged
+away to the faro and monte tables, which were doing a busy trade;
+others loitered in the verandah, smoking, and looking at the native
+women, who sang and danced fandangos before them. The whole of the
+dirty, woe-begone place, which had looked so wretched by the light of
+day, was brilliantly illuminated now. Night would bring no rest to
+Cruces, while the crowds were there to be fed, cheated, or amused.
+Daybreak would find the faro-tables, with their piles of silver and
+little heaps of gold-dust, still surrounded by haggard gamblers;
+daybreak would gleam sickly upon the tawdry finery of the poor
+Spanish singers and dancers, whose weary night's work would enable
+them to live upon the travellers' bounty for the next week or so.
+These few hours of gaiety and excitement were to provide the Cruces
+people with food and clothing for as many days; and while their
+transitory sun shone, I will do them the justice to say they gathered
+in their hay busily. In the exciting race for gold, we need not be
+surprised at the strange groups which line the race-course. All that
+I wondered at was, that I had not foreseen what I found, or that my
+rage for change and novelty had closed my ears against the warning
+voices of those who knew somewhat of the high-road to California; but
+I was too tired to moralise long, and begged my brother to find me a
+bed somewhere. He failed to do so completely, and in despair I took
+the matter in my own hands; and stripping the green oilskin cloth
+from the rough table--it would not be wanted again until to-morrow's
+breakfast--pinned up some curtains round the table's legs, and turned
+in with my little servant beneath it. It was some comfort to know
+that my brother, his servants, and Mac brought their mattresses, and
+slept upon it above us. It was a novel bed, and required some slight
+stretch of the imagination to fancy it a four-poster; but I was too
+tired to be particular, and slept soundly.
+
+We were up right early on the following morning; and refreshed with my
+night's sleep, I entered heartily into the preparations for breakfast.
+That meal over, the homeward-bound passengers took boats _en route_
+for Gorgona, while those bound for California hired mules for the land
+journey to Panama. So after awhile all cleared away, and Cruces was
+left to its unhealthy solitude.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    AN UNWELCOME VISITOR IN CRUCES--THE CHOLERA--SUCCESS
+    OF THE YELLOW DOCTRESS--FEARFUL SCENE AT THE
+    MULE-OWNER'S--THE BURYING PARTIES--THE CHOLERA
+    ATTACKS ME.
+
+
+I do not think I have ever known what it is to despair, or even to
+despond (if such were my inclination, I have had some opportunities
+recently), and it was not long before I began to find out the bright
+side of Cruces life, and enter into schemes for staying there. But it
+would be a week or so before the advent of another crowd would wake
+Cruces to life and activity again; and in the meanwhile, and until I
+could find a convenient hut for my intended hotel, I remained my
+brother's guest.
+
+But it was destined that I should not be long in Cruces before my
+medicinal skill and knowledge were put to the test. Before the
+passengers for Panama had been many days gone, it was found that they
+had left one of their number behind them, and that one--the cholera. I
+believe that the faculty have not yet come to the conclusion that the
+cholera is contagious, and I am not presumptuous enough to forestall
+them; but my people have always considered it to be so, and the poor
+Cruces folks did not hesitate to say that this new and terrible plague
+had been a fellow-traveller with the Americans from New Orleans or
+some other of its favoured haunts. I had the first intimation of its
+unwelcome presence in the following abrupt and unpleasant manner:--
+
+A Spaniard, an old and intimate friend of my brother, had supped with
+him one evening, and upon returning home had been taken ill, and after
+a short period of intense suffering had died. So sudden and so
+mysterious a death gave rise to the rumour that he had been poisoned,
+and suspicion rested for a time, perhaps not unnaturally, upon my
+brother, in whose company the dead man had last been. Anxious for many
+reasons--the chief one, perhaps, the position of my brother--I went
+down to see the corpse. A single glance at the poor fellow showed me
+the terrible truth. The distressed face, sunken eyes, cramped limbs,
+and discoloured shrivelled skin were all symptoms which I had been
+familiar with very recently; and at once I pronounced the cause of
+death to be cholera. The Cruces people were mightily angry with me
+for expressing such an opinion; even my brother, although it relieved
+him of the odium of a great crime, was as annoyed as the rest. But by
+twelve o'clock that morning one of the Spaniard's friends was attacked
+similarly, and the very people who had been most angry with me a few
+hours previously, came to me now eager for advice. There was no doctor
+in Cruces; the nearest approach to one was a little timid dentist, who
+was there by accident, and who refused to prescribe for the sufferer,
+and I was obliged to do my best. Selecting from my medicine chest--I
+never travel anywhere without it--what I deemed necessary, I went
+hastily to the patient, and at once adopted the remedies I considered
+fit. It was a very obstinate case, but by dint of mustard emetics,
+warm fomentations, mustard plasters on the stomach and the back, and
+calomel, at first in large then in gradually smaller doses, I
+succeeded in saving my first cholera patient in Cruces.
+
+For a few days the terrible disease made such slow progress amongst us
+that we almost hoped it had passed on its way and spared us; but all
+at once it spread rapidly, and affrighted faces and cries of woe soon
+showed how fatally the destroyer was at work. And in so great request
+were my services, that for days and nights together I scarcely knew
+what it was to enjoy two successive hours' rest.
+
+And here I must pause to set myself right with my kind reader. He or
+she will not, I hope, think that, in narrating these incidents, I am
+exalting my poor part in them unduly. I do not deny (it is the only
+thing indeed that I have to be proud of) that I _am_ pleased and
+gratified when I look back upon my past life, and see times now and
+then, and places here and there, when and where I have been enabled to
+benefit my fellow-creatures suffering from ills my skill could often
+remedy. Nor do I think that the kind reader will consider this feeling
+an unworthy one. If it be so, and if, in the following pages, the
+account of what Providence has given me strength to do on larger
+fields of action be considered vain or egotistical, still I cannot
+help narrating them, for my share in them appears to be the one and
+only claim I have to interest the public ear. Moreover I shall be
+sadly disappointed, if those years of life which may be still in store
+for me are not permitted by Providence to be devoted to similar
+usefulness. I am not ashamed to confess--for the gratification is,
+after all, a selfish one--that I love to be of service to those who
+need a woman's help. And wherever the need arises--on whatever distant
+shore--I ask no greater or higher privilege than to minister to it.
+After this explanation, I resume more freely the account of my labours
+in Cruces.
+
+It was scarcely surprising that the cholera should spread rapidly, for
+fear is its powerful auxiliary, and the Cruces people bowed down
+before the plague in slavish despair. The Americans and other
+foreigners in the place showed a brave front, but the natives,
+constitutionally cowardly, made not the feeblest show of resistance.
+Beyond filling the poor church, and making the priests bring out into
+the streets figures of tawdry dirty saints, supposed to possess some
+miraculous influence which they never exerted, before which they
+prostrated themselves, invoking their aid with passionate prayers and
+cries, they did nothing. Very likely the saints would have got the
+credit of helping them if they had helped themselves; but the poor
+cowards never stirred a finger to clean out their close, reeking huts,
+or rid the damp streets of the rotting accumulation of months. I think
+their chief reliance was on "the yellow woman from Jamaica with the
+cholera medicine." Nor was this surprising; for the Spanish doctor,
+who was sent for from Panama, became nervous and frightened at the
+horrors around him, and the people soon saw that he was not familiar
+with the terrible disease he was called upon to do battle with, and
+preferred trusting to one who was.
+
+It must be understood that many of those who could afford to pay for
+my services did so handsomely, but the great majority of my patients
+had nothing better to give their doctress than thanks. The best part
+of my practice lay amongst the American store and hotel keepers, the
+worst among the native boatmen and muleteers. These latter died by
+scores, and among them I saw some scenes of horror I would fain
+forget, if it were possible. One terrible night, passed with some of
+them, has often haunted me. I will endeavour to narrate it, and should
+the reader be supposed to think it highly coloured and doubtful, I
+will only tell him that, terrible as it seems, I saw almost as fearful
+scenes on the Crimean peninsula among British men, a few thousand
+miles only from comfort and plenty.
+
+It was late in the evening when the largest mule-owner in Cruces came
+to me and implored me to accompany him to his kraal, a short distance
+from the town, where he said some of his men were dying. One in
+particular, his head muleteer, a very valuable servant, he was most
+selfishly anxious for, and, on the way thither, promised me a large
+remuneration if I should succeed in saving him. Our journey was not a
+long one, but it rained hard, and the fields were flooded, so that it
+took us some time to reach the long, low hut which he called his home.
+I would rather not see such another scene as the interior of that hut
+presented. Its roof scarcely sheltered its wretched inmates from the
+searching rain; its floor was the damp, rank turf, trodden by the
+mules' hoofs and the muleteers' feet into thick mud. Around, in dirty
+hammocks, and on the damp floor, were the inmates of this wretched
+place, male and female, the strong and the sick together, breathing
+air that nearly choked me, accustomed as I had grown to live in impure
+atmosphere; for beneath the same roof the mules, more valuable to
+their master than his human servants, were stabled, their fore-feet
+locked, and beside them were heaps of saddles, packs, and harness. The
+groans of the sufferers and the anxiety and fear of their comrades
+were so painful to hear and witness, that for a few minutes I felt an
+almost uncontrollable impulse to run out into the stormy night, and
+flee from this plague-spot. But the weak feeling vanished, and I set
+about my duty. The mule-owner was so frightened that he did not
+hesitate to obey orders, and, by my directions, doors and shutters
+were thrown open, fires were lighted, and every effort made to
+ventilate the place; and then, with the aid of the frightened women, I
+applied myself to my poor patients. Two were beyond my skill. Death
+alone could give them relief. The others I could help. But no words of
+mine could induce them to bear their terrible sufferings like men.
+They screamed and groaned, not like women, for few would have been so
+craven-hearted, but like children; calling, in the intervals of
+violent pain, upon Jesu, the Madonna, and all the saints of heaven
+whom their lives had scandalised. I stayed with them until midnight,
+and then got away for a little time. But I had not long been quiet,
+before the mule-master was after me again. The men were worse; would I
+return with him. The rain was drifting heavily on the thatched roof,
+as it only does in tropical climates, and I was tired to death; but I
+could not resist his appeal. He had brought with him a pair of tall,
+thick boots, in which I was to wade through the flooded fields; and
+with some difficulty I again reached the kraal. I found the worst
+cases sinking fast, one of the others had relapsed, while fear had
+paralysed the efforts of the rest. At last I restored some order; and,
+with the help of the bravest of the women, fixed up rude screens
+around the dying men. But no screens could shut out from the others
+their awful groans and cries for the aid that no mortal power could
+give them. So the long night passed away; first a deathlike stillness
+behind one screen, and then a sudden silence behind the other, showing
+that the fierce battle with death was over, and who had been the
+victor. And, meanwhile, I sat before the flickering fire, with my last
+patient in my lap--a poor, little, brown-faced orphan infant, scarce a
+year old, was dying in my arms, and I was powerless to save it. It may
+seem strange, but it is a fact, that I thought more of that little
+child than I did of the men who were struggling for their lives, and
+prayed very earnestly and solemnly to God to spare it. But it did not
+please Him to grant my prayer, and towards morning the wee spirit
+left this sinful world for the home above it had so lately left, and
+what was mortal of the little infant lay dead in my arms. Then it was
+that I began to think--how the idea first arose in my mind I can
+hardly say--that, if it were possible to take this little child and
+examine it, I should learn more of the terrible disease which was
+sparing neither young nor old, and should know better how to do battle
+with it. I was not afraid to use my baby patient thus. I knew its fled
+spirit would not reproach me, for I had done all I could for it in
+life--had shed tears over it, and prayed for it.
+
+It was cold grey dawn, and the rain had ceased, when I followed the
+man who had taken the dead child away to bury it, and bribed him to
+carry it by an unfrequented path down to the river-side, and accompany
+me to the thick retired bush on the opposite bank. Having persuaded
+him thus much, it was not difficult, with the help of silver arguments
+to convince him that it would be for the general benefit and his own,
+if I could learn from this poor little thing the secret inner workings
+of our common foe; and ultimately he stayed by me, and aided me in my
+first and last _post mortem_ examination. It seems a strange deed to
+accomplish, and I am sure I could not wield the scalpel or the
+substitute I then used now, but at that time the excitement had
+strung my mind up to a high pitch of courage and determination; and
+perhaps the daily, almost hourly, scenes of death had made me somewhat
+callous. I need not linger on this scene, nor give the readers the
+results of my operation; although novel to me, and decidedly useful,
+they were what every medical man well knows.
+
+We buried the poor little body beneath a piece of luxuriant turf, and
+stole back into Cruces like guilty things. But the knowledge I had
+obtained thus strangely was very valuable to me, and was soon put into
+practice. But that I dreaded boring my readers, I would fain give them
+some idea of my treatment of this terrible disease. I have no doubt
+that at first I made some lamentable blunders, and, may be, lost
+patients which a little later I could have saved. I know I came
+across, the other day, some notes of cholera medicines which made me
+shudder, and I dare say they have been used in their turn and found
+wanting. The simplest remedies were perhaps the best. Mustard
+plasters, and emetics, and calomel; the mercury applied externally,
+where the veins were nearest the surface, were my usual resources.
+Opium I rather dreaded, as its effect is to incapacitate the system
+from making any exertion, and it lulls the patient into a sleep which
+is often the sleep of death. When my patients felt thirsty, I would
+give them water in which cinnamon had been boiled. One stubborn attack
+succumbed to an additional dose of ten grains of sugar of lead, mixed
+in a pint of water, given in doses of a table-spoonful every quarter
+of an hour. Another patient, a girl, I rubbed over with warm oil,
+camphor, and spirits of wine. Above all, I never neglected to apply
+mustard poultices to the stomach, spine, and neck, and particularly to
+keep my patient warm about the region of the heart. Nor did I relax my
+care when the disease had passed by, for danger did not cease when the
+great foe was beaten off. The patient was left prostrate;
+strengthening medicines had to be given cautiously, for fever, often
+of the brain, would follow. But, after all, one great conclusion,
+which my practice in cholera cases enabled me to come to, was the old
+one, that few constitutions permitted the use of exactly similar
+remedies, and that the course of treatment which saved one man, would,
+if persisted in, have very likely killed his brother.
+
+Generally speaking, the cholera showed premonitory symptoms; such as
+giddiness, sickness, diarrhoea, or sunken eyes and distressed look;
+but sometimes the substance followed its forecoming shadow so quickly,
+and the crisis was so rapid, that there was no time to apply any
+remedies. An American carpenter complained of giddiness and
+sickness--warning signs--succeeded so quickly by the worst symptoms of
+cholera, that in less than an hour his face became of an indigo tint,
+his limbs were doubled up horribly with violent cramps, and he died.
+
+To the convicts--and if there could be grades of wretchedness in
+Cruces, these poor creatures were the lowest--belonged the terrible
+task of burying the dead; a duty to which they showed the utmost
+repugnance. Not unfrequently, at some fancied alarm, they would fling
+down their burden, until at last it became necessary to employ the
+soldiers to see that they discharged the task allotted to them.
+Ordinarily, the victims were buried immediately after death, with such
+imperfect rites of sepulture as the harassed frightened priests would
+pay them, and very seldom was time afforded by the authorities to the
+survivors to pay those last offices to the departed which a Spaniard
+and a Catholic considers so important. Once I was present at a
+terrible scene in the house of a New Granada grandee, whose pride and
+poverty justified many of the old Spanish proverbs levelled at his
+caste.
+
+It was when the cholera was at its height, and yet he had
+left--perhaps on important business--his wife and family, and gone to
+Panama for three days. On the day after his departure, the plague
+broke out in his house, and my services were required promptly. I
+found the miserable household in terrible alarm, and yet confining
+their exertions to praying to a coarse black priest in a black
+surplice, who, kneeling beside the couch of the Spanish lady, was
+praying (in his turn) to some favourite saint in Cruces. The sufferer
+was a beautiful woman, suffering from a violent attack of cholera,
+with no one to help her, or even to take from her arms the poor little
+child they had allowed her to retain. In her intervals of comparative
+freedom from pain, her cries to the Madonna and her husband were
+heartrending to hear. I had the greatest difficulty to rout the stupid
+priest and his as stupid worshippers, and do what I could for the
+sufferer. It was very little, and before long the unconscious Spaniard
+was a widower. Soon after, the authorities came for the body. I never
+saw such passionate anger and despair as were shown by her relatives
+and servants, old and young, at the intrusion--rage that she, who had
+been so exalted in life, should go to her grave like the poor, poor
+clay she was. Orders were given to bar the door against the convict
+gang who had come to discharge their unpleasant duty, and while all
+were busy decking out the unconscious corpse in gayest attire, none
+paid any heed to me bending over the fire with the motherless child,
+journeying fast to join its dead parent. I had made more than one
+effort to escape, for I felt more sick and wretched than at any
+similar scene of woe; but finding exit impossible, I turned my back
+upon them, and attended to the dying child. Nor did I heed their
+actions until I heard orders given to admit the burial party, and then
+I found that they had dressed the corpse in rich white satin, and
+decked her head with flowers.
+
+The agitation and excitement of this scene had affected me as no
+previous horror had done, and I could not help fancying that symptoms
+were showing themselves in me with which I was familiar enough in
+others. Leaving the dying infant to the care of its relatives (when
+the Spaniard returned he found himself widowed and childless), I
+hastened to my brother's house. When there, I felt an unpleasant chill
+come over me, and went to bed at once. Other symptoms followed
+quickly, and, before nightfall, I knew full well that my turn had come
+at last, and that the cholera had attacked me, perhaps its greatest
+foe in Cruces.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    AMERICAN SYMPATHY--I TAKE AN HOTEL IN CRUCES--MY
+    CUSTOMERS--LOLA MONTES--MISS HAYES AND THE
+    BISHOP--GAMBLING IN CRUCES--QUARRELS AMONGST THE
+    TRAVELLERS--NEW GRANADA MILITARY--THE THIEVES OF
+    CRUCES--A NARROW ESCAPE.
+
+
+When it became known that their "yellow doctress" had the cholera, I
+must do the people of Cruces the justice to say that they gave her
+plenty of sympathy, and would have shown their regard for her more
+actively, had there been any occasion. Indeed, when I most wanted
+quiet, it was difficult to keep out the sympathising Americans and
+sorrowing natives who came to inquire after me; and who, not content
+with making their inquiries, and leaving their offerings of blankets,
+flannel, etc., must see with their own eyes what chance the yellow
+woman had of recovery. The rickety door of my little room could never
+be kept shut for many minutes together. A visitor would open it
+silently, poke his long face in with an expression of sympathy that
+almost made me laugh in spite of my pain, draw it out again, between
+the narrowest possible opening, as if he were anxious to admit as
+little air as he could; while another would come in bodily, and after
+looking at me curiously and inquisitively, as he would eye a horse or
+nigger he had some thoughts of making a bid for, would help to carpet
+my room, with the result perhaps of his meditations, and saying,
+gravely, "Air you better, Aunty Seacole, now? Isn't there a something
+we can du for you, ma'am?" would as gravely give place to another and
+another yet, until I was almost inclined to throw something at them,
+or call them bad names, like the Scotch king does the ghosts in the
+play.[A] But, fortunately, the attack was a very mild one, and by the
+next day all danger had gone by, although I still felt weak and
+exhausted.
+
+After a few weeks, the first force of the cholera was spent, and
+although it lingered with us, as though loath to leave so fine a
+resting-place, for some months, it no longer gave us much alarm; and
+before long, life went on as briskly and selfishly as ever with the
+Cruces survivors, and the terrible past was conveniently forgotten.
+Perhaps it is so everywhere; but the haste with which the Cruces
+people buried their memory seemed indecent. Old houses found new
+masters; the mules new drivers; the great Spaniard chose another
+pretty woman, and had a grand, poor, dirty wedding, and was married by
+the same lazy black priest who had buried his wife, dead a few months
+back; and very likely they would all have hastened as quickly to
+forget their doctress, had circumstances permitted them: but every now
+and then one of them sickened and died of the old complaint; and the
+reputation I had established founded for me a considerable practice.
+The Americans in the place gladly retained me as their medical
+attendant, and in one way or other gave me plenty to do; but, in
+addition to this, I determined to follow my original scheme of keeping
+an hotel in Cruces.
+
+Right opposite my brother's Independent Hotel there was a place to let
+which it was considered I could adapt to my purpose. It was a mere
+tumble-down hut, with wattled sides, and a rotten thatched roof,
+containing two rooms, one small enough to serve as a bedroom. For this
+charming residence--very openly situated, and well ventilated--twenty
+pounds a month was considered a fair and by no means exorbitant rent.
+And yet I was glad to take possession of it; and in a few days had
+hung its rude walls with calico of gayest colour in stripes, with an
+exuberance of fringes, frills, and bows (the Americans love show
+dearly), and prepared it to accommodate fifty dinner guests. I had
+determined that it should be simply a _table d'hote_, and that I would
+receive no lodgers. Once, and once only, I relaxed this rule in favour
+of two American women, who sent me to sleep by a lengthy quarrel of
+words, woke me in the night to witness its crisis in a fisticuff
+_duello_, and left in the morning, after having taken a fancy to some
+of my moveables which were most easily removeable. I had on my staff
+my black servant Mac, the little girl I have before alluded to, and a
+native cook. I had had many opportunities of seeing how my brother
+conducted his business; and adopted his tariff of charges. For an
+ordinary dinner my charge was four shillings; eggs and chickens were,
+as I have before said, distinct luxuries, and fetched high prices.
+
+Four crowds generally passed through Cruces every month. In these were
+to be found passengers to and from Chili, Peru, and Lima, as well as
+California and America. The distance from Cruces to Panama was not
+great--only twenty miles, in fact; but the journey, from the want of
+roads and the roughness of the country, was a most fatiguing one. In
+some parts--as I found when I made the journey, in company with my
+brother--it was almost impassable; and for more than half the
+distance, three miles an hour was considered splendid progress. The
+great majority of the travellers were rough, rude men, of dirty,
+quarrelsome habits; the others were more civilized and more dangerous.
+And it was not long before I grew very tired of life in Cruces,
+although I made money rapidly, and pressed my brother to return to
+Kingston. Poor fellow! it would have been well for him had he done so;
+for he stayed only to find a grave on the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+The company at my _table d'hote_ was not over select; and it was often
+very difficult for an unprotected female to manage them, although I
+always did my best to put them in good humour. Among other comforts, I
+used to hire a black barber, for the rather large consideration of two
+pounds, to shave my male guests. You can scarcely conceive the
+pleasure and comfort an American feels in a clean chin; and I believe
+my barber attracted considerable custom to the British Hotel at
+Cruces. I had a little out-house erected for his especial convenience;
+and there, well provided with towels, and armed with plenty of razors,
+a brush of extraordinary size, and a foaming sea of lather, Jose
+shaved the new-comers. The rivalry to get within reach of his huge
+brush was very great; and the threats used by the neglected, when the
+grinning black was considered guilty of any interested partiality,
+were of the fiercest description.
+
+This duty over, they and their coarser female companions--many of them
+well known to us, for they travelled backwards and forwards across the
+Isthmus, hanging on to the foolish gold-finders--attacked the dinner,
+very often with great lack of decency. It was no use giving them
+carving-knives and forks, for very often they laid their own down to
+insert a dirty hairy hand into a full dish; while the floor soon bore
+evidences of the great national American habit of expectoration. Very
+often quarrels would arise during the progress of dinner; and more
+than once I thought the knives, which they nearly swallowed at every
+mouthful, would have been turned against one another. It was, I always
+thought, extremely fortunate that the reckless men rarely stimulated
+their excitable passions with strong drink. Tea and coffee were the
+common beverages of the Americans; Englishmen, and men of other
+nations, being generally distinguishable by their demand for wine and
+spirits. But the Yankee's capacity for swilling tea and coffee was
+prodigious. I saw one man drink ten cups of coffee; and finding his
+appetite still unsatisfied, I ran across to my brother for advice.
+There was a merry twinkle in his eyes as he whispered, "I always put
+in a good spoonful of salt after the sixth cup. It chokes them off
+admirably."
+
+It was no easy thing to avoid being robbed and cheated by the less
+scrupulous travellers; although I think it was only the 'cutest Yankee
+who stood any fair chance of outwitting me. I remember an instance of
+the biter bit, which I will narrate, hoping it may make my reader
+laugh as heartily as its recollection makes me. He was a tall, thin
+Yankee, with a furtive glance of the eyes, and an amazing appetite,
+which he seemed nothing loath to indulge: his appetite for eggs
+especially seemed unbounded. Now, I have more than once said how
+expensive eggs were; and this day they happened to be eightpence
+apiece. Our plan was to charge every diner according to the number of
+shells found upon his plate. Now, I noticed how eagerly my thin guest
+attacked my eggs, and marvelled somewhat at the scanty pile of shells
+before him. My suspicions once excited, I soon fathomed my Yankee
+friend's dodge. As soon as he had devoured the eggs, he conveyed
+furtively the shells beneath the table, and distributed them
+impartially at the feet of his companions. I gave my little black maid
+a piece of chalk, and instructions; and creeping under the table, she
+counted the scattered shells, and chalked the number on the tail of
+his coat. And when he came up to pay his score, he gave up his number
+of eggs in a loud voice; and when I contradicted him, and referred to
+the coat-_tale_ in corroboration of _my_ score, there was a general
+laugh against him. But there was a nasty expression in his cat-like
+eyes, and an unpleasant allusion to mine, which were not agreeable,
+and dissuaded me from playing any more practical jokes upon the
+Yankees.
+
+I followed my brother's example closely, and forbade all gambling in
+my hotel. But I got some idea of its fruits from the cases brought to
+me for surgical treatment from the faro and monte tables. Gambling at
+Cruces, and on the Isthmus generally, was a business by which money
+was wormed out of the gold-seekers and gold-finders. No attempt was
+made to render it attractive, as I have seen done elsewhere. The
+gambling-house was often plainer than our hotels; and but for the
+green tables, with their piles of money and gold-dust, watched over by
+a well-armed determined banker, and the eager gamblers around, you
+would not know that you were in the vicinity of a spot which the
+English at home designate by a very decided and extreme name. A Dr.
+Casey--everybody familiar with the Americans knows their fondness for
+titles--owned the most favoured table in Cruces; and this, although he
+was known to be a reckless and unscrupulous villain. Most of them knew
+that he had been hunted out of San Francisco; and at that time--years
+before the Vigilance Committee commenced their labours of
+purification--a man too bad for that city must have been a prodigy of
+crime: and yet, and although he was violent-tempered, and had a knack
+of referring the slightest dispute to his revolver, his table was
+always crowded; probably because--the greatest rogues have some good
+qualities--he was honest in his way, and played fairly.
+
+Occasionally some distinguished passengers passed on the upward and
+downward tides of rascality and ruffianism, that swept periodically
+through Cruces. Came one day, Lola Montes, in the full zenith of her
+evil fame, bound for California, with a strange suite. A good-looking,
+bold woman, with fine, bad eyes, and a determined bearing; dressed
+ostentatiously in perfect male attire, with shirt-collar turned down
+over a velvet lapelled coat, richly worked shirt-front, black hat,
+French unmentionables, and natty, polished boots with spurs. She
+carried in her hand a handsome riding-whip, which she could use as
+well in the streets of Cruces as in the towns of Europe; for an
+impertinent American, presuming--perhaps not unnaturally--upon her
+reputation, laid hold jestingly of the tails of her long coat, and as
+a lesson received a cut across his face that must have marked him for
+some days. I did not wait to see the row that followed, and was glad
+when the wretched woman rode off on the following morning. A very
+different notoriety followed her at some interval of time--Miss
+Catherine Hayes, on her successful singing tour, who disappointed us
+all by refusing to sing at Cruces; and after her came an English
+bishop from Australia, who need have been a member of the church
+militant to secure his pretty wife from the host of admirers she had
+gained during her day's journey from Panama.
+
+Very quarrelsome were the majority of the crowds, holding life cheap,
+as all bad men strangely do--equally prepared to take or lose it upon
+the slightest provocation. Few tales of horror in Panama could be
+questioned on the ground of improbability. Not less partial were many
+of the natives of Cruces to the use of the knife; preferring, by the
+way, to administer sly stabs in the back, when no one was by to see
+the dastard blow dealt. Terribly bullied by the Americans were the
+boatmen and muleteers, who were reviled, shot, and stabbed by these
+free and independent filibusters, who would fain whop all creation
+abroad as they do their slaves at home. Whenever any Englishmen were
+present, and in a position to interfere with success, this bullying
+was checked; and they found, instead of the poor Spanish Indians,
+foemen worthy of their steel or lead. I must do them credit to say,
+that they were never loath to fight any one that desired that passing
+excitement, and thought little of ending their journey of life
+abruptly at the wretched wayside town of Cruces. It very often
+happened so, and over many a hasty head and ready hand have I seen the
+sod roughly pressed down, their hot hearts stilled suddenly in some
+senseless quarrel. And so in time I grew to have some considerable
+experience in the treatment of knife and gun-shot wounds.
+
+One night I heard a great noise outside my window, and on rising found
+a poor boatman moaning piteously, and in a strange jumble of many
+languages begging me to help him. At first I was afraid to open the
+door, on account of the noisy mob which soon joined him, for villainy
+was very shrewd at Cruces; but at last I admitted him, and found that
+the poor wretch's ears had been cruelly split by some hasty citizen of
+the United States. I stitched them up as well as I could, and silenced
+his cries. And at any time, if you happened to be near the river when
+a crowd were arriving or departing, your ears would be regaled with a
+choice chorus of threats, of which ear-splitting, eye-gouging,
+cow-hiding, and the application of revolvers were the mildest. Against
+the negroes, of whom there were many in the Isthmus, and who almost
+invariably filled the municipal offices, and took the lead in every
+way, the Yankees had a strong prejudice; but it was wonderful to see
+how freedom and equality elevate men, and the same negro who perhaps
+in Tennessee would have cowered like a beaten child or dog beneath an
+American's uplifted hand, would face him boldly here, and by equal
+courage and superior physical strength cow his old oppressor.
+
+When more than ordinary squabbles occurred in the street or at the
+gambling-tables, the assistance of the soldier-police of New Granada
+was called in, and the affair sometimes assumed the character of a
+regular skirmish. The soldiers--I wish I could speak better of
+them--were a dirty, cowardly, indolent set, more prone to use their
+knives than their legitimate arms, and bore old rusty muskets, and
+very often marched unshod. Their officers were in outward appearance a
+few shades superior to the men they commanded, but, as respects
+military proficiency, were their equals. Add to this description of
+their _personnel_ the well-known fact, that you might commit the
+grossest injustice, and could obtain the simplest justice only by
+lavish bribery, and you may form some idea of our military protectors.
+
+Very practised and skilful in thieving were the native population of
+Cruces--I speak of the majority, and except the negroes--always more
+inclined to do a dishonest night's labour at great risk, than an
+honest day's work for fair wages; for justice was always administered
+strictly to the poor natives--it was only the foreigners who could
+evade it or purchase exemption. Punishment was severe; and in extreme
+cases the convicts were sent to Carthagena, there to suffer
+imprisonment of a terrible character. Indeed, from what I heard of the
+New Granada prisons, I thought no other country could match them, and
+continued to think so until I read how the ingenuity in cruelty of his
+Majesty the King of Naples put the torturers of the New Granada
+Republic to the blush.
+
+I generally avoided claiming the protection of the law whilst on the
+Isthmus, for I found it was--as is the case in civilized England from
+other causes--rather an expensive luxury. Once only I took a thief
+caught in the act before the alcalde, and claimed the administration
+of justice. The court-house was a low bamboo shed, before which some
+dirty Spanish-Indian soldiers were lounging; and inside, the alcalde,
+a negro, was reclining in a dirty hammock, smoking coolly, hearing
+evidence, and pronouncing judgment upon the wretched culprits, who
+were trembling before his dusky majesty. I had attended him while
+suffering from an attack of cholera, and directly he saw me he rose
+from his hammock, and received me in a ceremonious, grand manner, and
+gave orders that coffee should be brought to me. He had a very pretty
+white wife, who joined us; and then the alcalde politely offered me a
+_cigarito_--having declined which, he listened to my statement with
+great attention. All this, however, did not prevent my leaving the
+necessary fee in furtherance of justice, nor his accepting it. Its
+consequence was, that the thief, instead of being punished as a
+criminal, was ordered to pay me the value of the stolen goods; which,
+after weeks of hesitation and delay, she eventually did, in pearls,
+combs, and other curiosities.
+
+Whenever an American was arrested by the New Granada authorities,
+justice had a hard struggle for the mastery, and rarely obtained it.
+Once I was present at the court-house, when an American was brought in
+heavily ironed, charged with having committed a highway robbery--if I
+may use the term where there were no roads--on some travellers from
+Chili. Around the frightened soldiers swelled an angry crowd of
+brother Americans, abusing and threatening the authorities in no
+measured terms, all of them indignant that a nigger should presume to
+judge one of their countrymen. At last their violence so roused the
+sleepy alcalde, that he positively threw himself from his hammock,
+laid down his cigarito, and gave such very determined orders to his
+soldiers that he succeeded in checking the riot. Then, with an air of
+decision that puzzled everybody, he addressed the crowd, declaring
+angrily, that since the Americans came the country had known no peace,
+that robberies and crimes of every sort had increased, and ending by
+expressing his determination to make strangers respect the laws of the
+Republic, and to retain the prisoner; and if found guilty, punish him
+as he deserved. The Americans seemed too astonished at the audacity of
+the black man, who dared thus to beard them, to offer any resistance;
+but I believe that the prisoner was allowed ultimately to escape.
+
+I once had a narrow escape from the thieves of Cruces. I had been down
+to Chagres for some stores, and returning, late in the evening, too
+tired to put away my packages, had retired to rest at once. My little
+maid, who was not so fatigued as I was, and slept more lightly, woke
+me in the night to listen to a noise in the thatch, at the further end
+of the store; but I was so accustomed to hear the half-starved mules
+of Cruces munching my thatch, that I listened lazily for a few
+minutes, and then went unsuspiciously into another heavy sleep. I do
+not know how long it was before I was again awoke by the child's loud
+screams and cries of "Hombro--landro;" and sure enough, by the light
+of the dying fire, I saw a fellow stealing away with my dress, in the
+pocket of which was my purse. I was about to rush forward, when the
+fire gleamed on a villainous-looking knife in his hand; so I stood
+still, and screamed loudly, hoping to arouse my brother over the way.
+For a moment the thief seemed inclined to silence me, and had taken a
+few steps forward, when I took up an old rusty horse-pistol which my
+brother had given me that I might look determined, and snatching down
+the can of ground coffee, proceeded to prime it, still screaming as
+loudly as my strong lungs would permit, until the rascal turned tail
+and stole away through the roof. The thieves usually buried their
+spoil like dogs, as they were; but this fellow had only time to hide
+it behind a bush, where it was found on the following morning, and
+claimed by me.
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[A] Mrs. Seacole very likely refers to Macbeth. But it was the witches
+he abused.--Ed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    MIGRATION TO GORGONA--FAREWELL DINNERS AND SPEECHES--A
+    BUILDING SPECULATION--LIFE IN GORGONA--SYMPATHY WITH
+    AMERICAN SLAVES--DR. CASEY IN TROUBLE--FLOODS AND
+    FIRES--YANKEE INDEPENDENCE AND FREEDOM.
+
+
+I remained at Cruces until the rainy months came to an end, and the
+river grew too shallow to be navigable by the boats higher up than
+Gorgona; and then we all made preparations for a flitting to that
+place. But before starting, it appeared to be the custom for the store
+and hotel keepers to exchange parting visits, and to many of these
+parties I, in virtue of my recent services to the community, received
+invitations. The most important social meeting took place on the
+anniversary of the declaration of American independence, at my
+brother's hotel, where a score of zealous Americans dined most
+heartily--as they never fail to do; and, as it was an especial
+occasion, drank champagne liberally at twelve shillings a bottle. And,
+after the usual patriotic toasts had been duly honoured, they proposed
+"the ladies," with an especial reference to myself, in a speech which
+I thought worth noting down at the time. The spokesman was a thin,
+sallow-looking American, with a pompous and yet rapid delivery, and a
+habit of turning over his words with his quid before delivering them,
+and clearing his mouth after each sentence, perhaps to make room for
+the next. I shall beg the reader to consider that the blanks express
+the time expended on this operation. He dashed into his work at once,
+rolling up and getting rid of his sentences as he went on:--
+
+"Well, gentlemen, I expect you'll all support me in a drinking of this
+toast that I du----. Aunty Seacole, gentlemen; I give you, Aunty
+Seacole----. We can't du less for her, after what she's done for
+us----, when the cholera was among us, gentlemen----, not many months
+ago----. So, I say, God bless the best yaller woman He ever made----,
+from Jamaica, gentlemen----, from the Isle of Springs----Well,
+gentlemen, I expect there are only tu things we're vexed for----; and
+the first is, that she ain't one of us----, a citizen of the great
+United States----; and the other thing is, gentlemen----, that
+Providence made her a yaller woman. I calculate, gentlemen, you're all
+as vexed as I am that she's not wholly white----, but I du reckon on
+your rejoicing with me that she's so many shades removed from being
+entirely black----; and I guess, if we could bleach her by any means
+we would----, and thus make her as acceptable in any company as she
+deserves to be----. Gentlemen, I give you Aunty Seacole!"
+
+And so the orator sat down amidst much applause. It may be supposed
+that I did not need much persuasion to return thanks, burning, as I
+was, to tell them my mind on the subject of my colour. Indeed, if my
+brother had not checked me, I should have given them my thoughts
+somewhat too freely. As it was, I said:--
+
+"Gentlemen,--I return you my best thanks for your kindness in drinking
+my health. As for what I have done in Cruces, Providence evidently
+made me to be useful, and I can't help it. But, I must say, that I
+don't altogether appreciate your friend's kind wishes with respect to
+my complexion. If it had been as dark as any nigger's, I should have
+been just as happy and as useful, and as much respected by those whose
+respect I value; and as to his offer of bleaching me, I should, even
+if it were practicable, decline it without any thanks. As to the
+society which the process might gain me admission into, all I can say
+is, that, judging from the specimens I have met with here and
+elsewhere, I don't think that I shall lose much by being excluded from
+it. So, gentlemen, I drink to you and the general reformation of
+American manners."
+
+I do not think that they altogether admired my speech, but I was a
+somewhat privileged person, and they laughed at it good-naturedly
+enough. Perhaps (for I was not in the best humour myself) I should
+have been better pleased if they had been angry.
+
+Rightly, I ought to have gone down to Gorgona a few weeks before
+Cruces was deserted, and secured an hotel; but I did not give up all
+hope of persuading my brother to leave the Isthmus until the very last
+moment, and then, of course, a suitable house was not to be hired in
+Gorgona for love or money. Seeing his fixed determination to stay, I
+consented to remain with him, for he was young and often ill, and set
+hard to work to settle myself somewhere. With the aid of an old
+Jamaica friend, who had settled at Gorgona, I at last found a
+miserable little hut for sale, and bought it for a hundred dollars. It
+consisted of one room only, and was, in its then condition, utterly
+unfit for my purpose; but I determined to set to work and build on to
+it--by no means the hazardous speculation in Gorgona, where bricks and
+mortar are unknown, that it is in England. The alcalde's permission to
+make use of the adjacent ground was obtained for a moderate
+consideration, and plenty of material was procurable from the opposite
+bank of the river. An American, whom I had cured of the cholera at
+Cruces, lent me his boat, and I hired two or three natives to cut down
+and shape the posts and bamboo poles. Directly these were raised, Mac
+and my little maid set to work and filled up the spaces between them
+with split bamboo canes and reeds, and before long my new hotel was
+ready to be roofed. The building process was simple enough, and I soon
+found myself in possession of a capital dining-room some thirty feet
+in length, which was gaily hung with coloured calico, concealing all
+defects of construction, and lighted with large oil lamps; a
+store-room, bar, and a small private apartment for ladies. Altogether,
+although I had to pay my labourers four shillings a day, the whole
+building did not cost me more than my brother paid for three months'
+rent of his hotel. I gave the travelling world to understand that I
+intended to devote my establishment principally to the entertainment
+of ladies, and the care of those who might fall ill on the route, and
+I found the scheme answered admirably. And yet, although the speculation
+paid well, I soon grew as weary of my life in Gorgona as I had been at
+Cruces; and when I found my brother proof against all persuasion to
+quit the Isthmus, I began to entertain serious thoughts of leaving
+him.
+
+Nor was it altogether my old roving inclination which led me to desire
+a change, although I dare say it had something to do with it. My
+present life was not agreeable for a woman with the least delicacy or
+refinement; and of female society I had none. Indeed, the females who
+crossed my path were about as unpleasant specimens of the fair sex as
+one could well wish to avoid. With very few exceptions, those who were
+not bad were very disagreeable, and as the majority came from the
+Southern States of America, and showed an instinctive repugnance
+against any one whose countenance claimed for her kindred with their
+slaves, my position was far from a pleasant one. Not that it ever gave
+me any annoyance; they were glad of my stores and comforts, I made
+money out of their wants; nor do I think our bond of connection was
+ever closer; only this, if any of them came to me sick and suffering
+(I say this out of simple justice to myself), I forgot everything,
+except that she was my sister, and that it was my duty to help her.
+
+I may have before said that the citizens of the New Granada Republic
+had a strong prejudice against all Americans. It is not difficult to
+assign a cause for this. In the first place, many of the negroes,
+fugitive from the Southern States, had sought refuge in this and the
+other States of Central America, where every profession was open to
+them; and as they were generally superior men--evinced perhaps by
+their hatred of their old condition and their successful flight--they
+soon rose to positions of eminence in New Granada. In the priesthood,
+in the army, in all municipal offices, the self-liberated negroes were
+invariably found in the foremost rank; and the people, for some
+reason--perhaps because they recognised in them superior talents for
+administration--always respected them more than, and preferred them
+to, their native rulers. So that, influenced naturally by these freed
+slaves, who bore themselves before their old masters bravely and like
+men, the New Granada people were strongly prejudiced against the
+Americans. And in the second and third places, they feared their
+quarrelsome, bullying habits--be it remembered that the crowds to
+California were of the lowest sorts, many of whom have since
+fertilised Cuban and Nicaraguan soil--and dreaded their schemes for
+annexation. To such an extent was this amusingly carried, that when
+the American Railway Company took possession of Navy Bay, and
+christened it Aspinwall, after the name of their Chairman, the native
+authorities refused to recognise their right to name any portion of
+the Republic, and pertinaciously returned all letters directed to
+Aspinwall, with "no such place known" marked upon them in the very
+spot for which they were intended. And, in addition to this, the legal
+authorities refused to compel any defendant to appear who was
+described as of Aspinwall, and put every plaintiff out of court who
+described himself as residing in that unrecognised place.
+
+Under these circumstances, my readers can easily understand that when
+any Americans crossed the Isthmus, accompanied by their slaves, the
+Cruces and Gorgona people were restlessly anxious to whisper into
+their ears offers of freedom and hints how easy escape would be. Nor
+were the authorities at all inclined to aid in the recapture of a
+runaway slave. So that, as it was necessary for the losers to go on
+with the crowd, the fugitive invariably escaped. It is one of the
+maxims of the New Granada constitution--as it is, I believe, of the
+English--that on a slave touching its soil his chains fall from him.
+Rather than irritate so dangerous a neighbour as America, this rule
+was rarely supported; but I remember the following instance of its
+successful application.
+
+A young American woman, whose character can be best described by the
+word "vicious," fell ill at Gorgona, and was left behind by her
+companions under the charge of a young negro, her slave, whom she
+treated most inhumanly, as was evinced by the poor girl's frequent
+screams when under the lash. One night her cries were so distressing,
+that Gorgona could stand it no longer, but broke into the house and
+found the chattel bound hand and foot, naked, and being severely
+lashed. Despite the threats and astonishment of the mistress, they
+were both carried off on the following morning, before the alcalde,
+himself a man of colour, and of a very humane disposition. When the
+particulars of the case were laid before him, he became strongly
+excited, and called upon the woman to offer an explanation of her
+cruelty. She treated it with the coolest unconcern--"The girl was her
+property, worth so many dollars, and a child at New Orleans; had
+misbehaved herself, and been properly corrected. The alcalde must be
+drunk or a fool, or both together, to interfere between an American
+and her property." Her coolness vanished, however, when the alcalde
+turned round to the girl and told her that she was free to leave her
+mistress when she liked; and when she heard the irrepressible cheering
+of the crowded court-hut at the alcalde's humanity and boldness, and
+saw the slave's face flush with delight at the judge's words, she
+became terribly enraged; made use of the most fearful threats, and
+would have wreaked summary vengeance on her late chattel had not the
+clumsy soldiery interfered. Then, with demoniac refinement of cruelty,
+she bethought herself of the girl's baby at New Orleans still in her
+power, and threatened most horrible torture to the child if its mother
+dared to accept the alcalde's offer.
+
+The poor girl trembled and covered her face with her hands, as though
+to shut out some fearful sight, and, I think, had we not persuaded her
+to the contrary, that she would have sacrificed her newly won freedom
+for the child's sake. But we knew very well that when the heat of
+passion had subsided, the threatener would be too 'cute to injure her
+own property; and at once set afloat a subscription for the purchase
+of the child. The issue of the tale I do not know, as the woman was
+very properly removed into the interior of the country.
+
+Life at Gorgona resembled life at Cruces so nearly that it does not
+need a separate description. Down with the store and hotel keepers
+came the muleteers and mules, porters and hangers-on, idlers and
+thieves, gamblers and dancing women; and soon the monte-tables were
+fitted up, and plying their deadly trade; and the dancers charmed the
+susceptible travellers as successfully in the dirty streets of Gorgona
+as they had previously done in the unwholesome precincts of Cruces.
+And Dr. Casey was very nearly getting himself into serious trouble,
+from too great a readiness to use his revolver. Still, he had a better
+excuse for bloodshed this time than might have been found for his
+previous breaches of the sixth commandment. Among the desperadoes who
+frequented his gambling-hut, during their short stay in Gorgona, was
+conceived the desperate plan of putting out the lights, and upsetting
+Casey's table--trusting in the confusion to carry off the piles of
+money upon it. The first part of their programme was successfully
+carried out; but the second was frustrated by the Doctor promptly
+firing his revolver into the dark, and hitting an unoffending boy in
+the hip. And at this crisis the Gorgona police entered, carried off
+all the parties they could lay hands upon (including the Doctor) to
+prison, and brought the wounded boy to me.
+
+On the following morning came a most urgent request that I would visit
+the imprisoned Doctor. I found him desperately angry, but somewhat
+nervous too, for the alcalde was known to be no friend to the
+Americans, owed Casey more than one grudge, and had shown recently a
+disposition to enforce the laws.
+
+"I say, Mrs. Seacole, how's that ---- boy?"
+
+"Oh, Dr. Casey, how could you shoot the poor lad, and now call him bad
+names, as though he'd injured you? He is very ill indeed--may die; so
+I advise you to think seriously of your position."
+
+"But, Madame Seacole," (this in a very altered tone), "_you'll_ surely
+help me? _you'll_ surely tell the alcalde that the wound's a slight
+one? He's a friend of yours, and will let me out of this hole. Come,
+Madame Seacole, you'll never leave me to be murdered by these
+bloodthirsty savages?"
+
+"What can I do or say, Dr. Casey? I must speak the truth, and the ball
+is still in the poor lad's hip," I answered, for I enjoyed the
+fellow's fear too much to help him. However, he sent some of his
+friends to the boy's father, and bribed him to take the lad from my
+care, and send him to Navy Bay, to a surgeon there. Of course, he
+never returned to prosecute Dr. Casey; and he was left with the
+alcalde only to deal with, who, although he hated the man, could not
+resist his money, and so set him free.
+
+Gorgona lying lower than Cruces, its inhabitants more frequently
+enjoyed the excitement of a flood. After heavy rains, the river would
+rise so rapidly that in a few hours the chief part of the place would
+be under water. On such occasions the scene was unusually exciting. As
+the water crept up the street, the frightened householders kept
+removing their goods and furniture to higher ground; while here and
+there, where the waters had surrounded them unawares, boats were sent
+to their rescue. The houses, not made to resist much wind or water,
+often gave way, and were carried down the Chagres. Meanwhile, the
+thieves were the busiest--the honest folks, forgetting the true old
+adage, "God helps those who help themselves," confining their
+exertions to bringing down their favourite saints to the water's edge,
+and invoking their interposition.
+
+Fortunately my hotel was at the upper end of the town, where the
+floods had been rarely known to extend; and although there was a
+sufficient chance of the water reaching me to compel me to have all my
+stores, etc., ready packed for removal, I escaped. Some distressing
+losses occurred. A Frenchman, a near neighbour, whose house was
+surrounded by the waters before he could remove his goods, grew so
+frantic at the loss, that he obstinately refused to quit his falling
+house; and some force had to be used before they could save his life.
+
+Scarcely had the ravages of the last flood been repaired when fire
+marked Gorgona for its prey. The conflagration began at a store by the
+river-side; but it spread rapidly, and before long all Gorgona was in
+danger. The town happened to be very full that night, two crowds
+having met there, and there was great confusion; but at last the lazy
+soldier-police, aided by the Americans, succeeded in pulling down some
+old crazy huts, and checking the fire's progress. The travellers were
+in sore plight, many of them being reduced to sleep upon their
+luggage, piled in the drenched streets. My hotel had some interesting
+inmates, for a poor young creature, borne in from one of the burning
+houses, became a mother during the night; and a stout little lassie
+opened its eyes upon this waesome world during the excitement and
+danger of a Gorgona conflagration.
+
+Shortly after this, tired to death of life in Panama, I handed over my
+hotel to my brother, and returned to Kingston. On the way thither I
+experienced another instance of American politeness, which I cannot
+help recording; first reminding my readers of what I have previously
+said of the character of the Californian travellers. Anxious to get
+home quickly, I took my passage in the first steamer that left Navy
+Bay--an American one; and late in the evening said farewell to the
+friends I had been staying with, and went on board. A very kind
+friend, an American merchant, doing a large business at Navy Bay, had
+tried hard to persuade me to delay my journey until the English
+company's steamer called; without, however, giving any good reasons
+for his wish. So, with Mac and my little maid, I passed through the
+crowd of female passengers on deck, and sought the privacy of the
+saloon. Before I had been long there, two ladies came to me, and in
+their cool, straightforward manner, questioned me.
+
+"Where air you going?"
+
+"To Kingston."
+
+"And how air you going?"
+
+"By sea."
+
+"Don't be impertinent, yaller woman. By what conveyance air you
+going?"
+
+"By this steamer, of course. I've paid for my passage."
+
+They went away with this information; and in a short time eight or
+nine others came and surrounded me, asking the same questions. My
+answers--and I was very particular--raised quite a storm of
+uncomplimentary remarks.
+
+"Guess a nigger woman don't go along with us in this saloon," said
+one. "I never travelled with a nigger yet, and I expect I shan't begin
+now," said another; while some children had taken my little servant
+Mary in hand, and were practising on her the politenesses which their
+parents were favouring me with--only, as is the wont of children, they
+were crueller. I cannot help it if I shock my readers; but the _truth_
+is, that one positively spat in poor little Mary's frightened yellow
+face.
+
+At last an old American lady came to where I sat, and gave me some
+staid advice. "Well, now, I tell you for your good, you'd better quit
+this, and not drive my people to extremities. If you do, you'll be
+sorry for it, I expect." Thus harassed, I appealed to the
+stewardess--a tall sour-looking woman, flat and thin as a dressed-up
+broomstick. She asked me sundry questions as to how and when I had
+taken my passage; until, tired beyond all endurance, I said, "My good
+woman, put me anywhere--under a boat--in your store-room, so that I
+can get to Kingston somehow." But the stewardess was not to be moved.
+
+"There's nowhere but the saloon, and you can't expect to stay with the
+white people, that's clear. Flesh and blood can stand a good deal of
+aggravation; but not that. If the Britishers is so took up with
+coloured people, that's their business; but it won't do here."
+
+This last remark was in answer to an Englishman, whose advice to me
+was not to leave my seat for any of them. He made matters worse; until
+at last I lost my temper, and calling Mac, bade him get my things
+together, and went up to the captain--a good honest man. He and some
+of the black crew and the black cook, who showed his teeth most
+viciously, were much annoyed. Muttering about its being a custom of
+the country, the captain gave me an order upon the agent for the money
+I had paid; and so, at twelve o'clock at night, I was landed again
+upon the wharf of Navy Bay.
+
+My American friends were vastly annoyed, but not much surprised; and
+two days later, the English steamer, the "Eagle," in charge of my old
+friend, Captain B----, touched at Navy Bay, and carried me to
+Kingston.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    THE YELLOW FEVER IN JAMAICA--MY EXPERIENCE OF DEATH-BED
+    SCENES--I LEAVE AGAIN FOR NAVY BAY, AND OPEN A STORE
+    THERE--I AM ATTACKED WITH THE GOLD FEVER, AND START FOR
+    ESCRIBANOS--LIFE IN THE INTERIOR OF THE REPUBLIC OF
+    NEW GRANADA--A REVOLUTIONARY CONSPIRACY ON A SMALL
+    SCALE--THE DINNER DELICACIES OF ESCRIBANOS--JOURNEY UP
+    THE PALMILLA RIVER--A FEW WORDS ON THE PRESENT ASPECT
+    OF AFFAIRS ON THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA.
+
+
+I stayed in Jamaica eight months out of the year 1853, still
+remembered in the island for its suffering and gloom. I returned just
+in time to find my services, with many others, needful; for the yellow
+fever never made a more determined effort to exterminate the English
+in Jamaica than it did in that dreadful year. So violent was the
+epidemic, that some of my people fell victims to its fury, a thing
+rarely heard of before. My house was full of sufferers--officers,
+their wives and children. Very often they were borne in from the ships
+in the harbour--sometimes in a dying state, sometimes--after long and
+distressing struggles with the grim foe--to recover. Habituated as I
+had become with death in its most harrowing forms, I found these
+scenes more difficult to bear than any I had previously borne a part
+in; and for this reason perhaps, that I had not only to cheer the
+death-bed of the sufferer, but, far more trying task, to soothe the
+passionate grief of wife or husband left behind. It was a terrible
+thing to see young people in the youth and bloom of life suddenly
+stricken down, not in battle with an enemy that threatened their
+country, but in vain contest with a climate that refused to adopt
+them. Indeed, the mother country pays a dear price for the possession
+of her colonies.
+
+I think all who are familiar with the West Indies will acknowledge
+that Nature has been favourable to strangers in a few respects, and
+that one of these has been in instilling into the hearts of the
+Creoles an affection for English people and an anxiety for their
+welfare, which shows itself warmest when they are sick and suffering.
+I can safely appeal on this point to any one who is acquainted with
+life in Jamaica. Another benefit has been conferred upon them by
+inclining the Creoles to practise the healing art, and inducing them
+to seek out the simple remedies which are available for the terrible
+diseases by which foreigners are attacked, and which are found growing
+under the same circumstances which produce the ills they minister to.
+So true is it that beside the nettle ever grows the cure for its
+sting.
+
+I do not willingly care to dwell upon scenes of suffering and death,
+but it is with such scenes that my life's experience has made me most
+familiar, and it is impossible to avoid their description now and
+then; and here I would fain record, in humble spirit, my conclusions,
+drawn from the bearing of those whom I have now and then accompanied a
+little distance on their way into the Valley of the Shadow of Death,
+on the awful and important question of religious feeling. Death is
+always terrible--no one need be ashamed to fear it. How we bear it
+depends much upon our constitutions. I have seen some brave men, who
+have smiled at the cruellest amputation, die trembling like children;
+while others, whose lives have been spent in avoidance of the least
+danger or trouble, have drawn their last painful breath like heroes,
+striking at their foe to the last, robbing him of his victory, and
+making their defeat a triumph. But I cannot trace _all_ the peace and
+resignation which I have witnessed on many death-beds to temperament
+alone, although I believe it has much more to do with them than many
+teachers will allow. I have stood by receiving the last blessings of
+Christians; and closing the eyes of those who had nothing to trust to
+but the mercy of a God who will be far more merciful to us than we are
+to one another; and I say decidedly that the Christian's death is the
+glorious one, as is his life. You can never find a good man who is not
+a worker; he is no laggard in the race of life. Three, two, or one
+score years of life have been to him a season of labour in his
+appointed sphere; and as the work of the hands earns for us sweet rest
+by night, so does the heart's labour of a lifetime make the repose of
+heaven acceptable. This is my experience; and I remember one death, of
+a man whom I grew to love in a few short weeks, the thought of which
+stirs my heart now, and has sustained me in seasons of great danger;
+for before that time, if I had never feared death, I had not learnt to
+meet him with a brave, smiling face, and this he taught me.
+
+I must not tell you his name, for his friends live yet, and have been
+kind to me in many ways. One of them we shall meet on Crimean soil. He
+was a young surgeon, and as busy, light-hearted, and joyous as a good
+man should be; and when he fell ill they brought him to my house,
+where I nursed him, and grew fond of him--almost as fond as the poor
+lady his mother in England far away. For some time we thought him
+safe, but at last the most terrible symptoms of the cruel disease
+showed themselves, and he knew that he must die. His thoughts were
+never for himself, but for those he had to leave behind; all his pity
+was for them. It was trying to see his poor hands tremblingly penning
+the last few words of leave-taking--trying to see how piteously the
+poor worn heart longed to see once more the old familiar faces of the
+loved ones in unconscious happiness at home; and yet I had to support
+him while this sad task was effected, and to give him all the help I
+could. I think he had some fondness for me, or, perhaps, his kind
+heart feigned a feeling that he saw would give me joy; for I used to
+call him "My son--my dear child," and to weep over him in a very weak
+and silly manner perhaps.
+
+He sent for an old friend, Captain S----; and when he came, I had to
+listen to the dictation of his simple will--his dog to one friend, his
+ring to another, his books to a third, his love and kind wishes to
+all; and that over, my poor son prepared himself to die--a child in
+all save a man's calm courage. He beckoned me to raise him in the bed,
+and, as I passed my arms around him, he saw the tears I could not
+repress, rolling down my brown cheeks, and thanked me with a few
+words. "Let me lay my head upon your breast;" and so he rested, now
+and then speaking lowly to himself, "It's only that I miss my mother;
+but Heaven's will be done." He repeated this many times, until the
+Heaven he obeyed sent him in its mercy forgetfulness, and his thoughts
+no longer wandered to his earthly home. I heard glad words feebly
+uttered as I bent over him--words about "Heaven--rest--rest"--a holy
+Name many times repeated; and then with a smile and a stronger voice,
+"Home! home!" And so in a little while my arms no longer held him.
+
+I have a little gold brooch with his hair in it now. I wonder what
+inducement could be strong enough to cause me to part with that
+memorial, sent me by his mother some months later, with the following
+letter:--
+
+    "My dear Madam,--Will you do me the favour to accept the
+    enclosed trifle, in remembrance of that dear son whose
+    last moments were soothed by your kindness, and as a
+    mark of the gratitude of, my dear Madam,
+
+        "Your ever sincere and obliged,
+
+            "M---- S----."
+
+After this, I was sent for by the medical authorities to provide
+nurses for the sick at Up-Park Camp, about a mile from Kingston; and
+leaving some nurses and my sister at home, I went there and did my
+best; but it was little we could do to mitigate the severity of the
+epidemic.
+
+About eight months after my return to Jamaica, it became necessary
+that some one should go to the Isthmus of Panama to wind up the
+affairs of my late hotel; and having another fit of restlessness, I
+prepared to return there myself. I found Navy Bay but little altered.
+It was evening when I arrived there; and my friend Mr. H----, who came
+to meet me on the wharf, carefully piloted me through the wretched
+streets, giving me especial warning not to stumble over what looked
+like three long boxes, loosely covered with the _debris_ of a fallen
+house. They had such a peculiar look about them that I stopped to ask
+what they were, receiving an answer which revived all my former
+memories of Darien life, "Oh, they're only three Irishmen killed in a
+row a week ago, whom it's nobody's business to bury."
+
+I went to Gorgona, wound up the affairs of the hotel, and, before
+returning to Navy Bay, took the occasion of accompanying my brother to
+the town of Panama. We did not go with the crowd, but rode alone on
+mules, taking with us three native guides on foot; and although the
+distance was not much over twenty miles, and we started at daybreak,
+we did not reach Panama until nightfall. But far from being surprised
+at this, my chief wonder was that we ever succeeded in getting over
+the journey. Through sand and mud, over hill and plain--through thick
+forests, deep gulleys, and over rapid streams, ran the track; the road
+sometimes being made of logs of wood laid transversely, with faggots
+stuffed between; while here and there we had to work our way through a
+tangled network of brushwood, and over broken rocks that seemed to
+have been piled together as stones for some giant's sling. We found
+Panama an old-fashioned, irregular town, with queer stone houses,
+almost all of which had been turned by the traders into stores.
+
+On my return to Navy Bay--or Colon, as the New Granadans would have it
+called--I again opened a store, and stayed there for three months or
+so. I did not find that society had improved much in my absence;
+indeed, it appeared to have grown more lawless. Endless quarrels,
+often resulting in bloodshed, took place between the strangers and the
+natives, and disturbed the peace of the town. Once the Spanish were
+incensed to such an extent, that they planned a general rising against
+the foreigners; and but for the opportune arrival of an English
+war-steamer, the consequences might have been terrible. The Americans
+were well armed and ready; but the native population far outnumbered
+them.
+
+Altogether, I was not sorry when an opportunity offered itself to do
+something at one of the stations of the New Granada Gold-mining
+Company, Escribanos, about seventy miles from Navy Bay. I made the
+journey there in a little vessel, all communication by land from Navy
+Bay being impossible, on account of the thick, dense forests, that
+would have resisted the attempts of an army to cut its way through
+them. As I was at this place for some months altogether, and as it was
+the only portion of my life devoted to gold-seeking, I shall make no
+apologies for endeavouring to describe the out-of-the-way village-life
+of New Granada.
+
+Escribanos is in the province of Veraguas, in the State of New
+Granada--information uninteresting enough, I have little doubt, to all
+but a very few of my readers. It lies near the mouth of a rivulet
+bearing that name, which, leaving the river Belen, runs away to the
+sea on its own account, about a mile from the mouth of that river. It
+is a great neighbourhood for gold-mines; and about that time companies
+and private individuals were trying hard to turn them to good account.
+Near it is the Fort Bowen mine, and several others; some yielding
+silver, others gold ore, in small quantities. Others lie in the
+vicinity of the Palmilla--another river, which discharges itself into
+the sea about ten miles from Escribanos; and there were more eastward
+of it, near a similar river, the Coquelet. Legends were rife at that
+time, and they may be revived at no distant date, of the treasures to
+be found at Cucuyo, Zapetero, Pananome, and many other Indian
+villages on their banks, which in times gone by had yielded up golden
+treasures to the Old World. But at this time the yield of gold did not
+repay the labour and capital necessary to extract it from the quartz;
+and it can only prove successful if more economical methods can be
+discovered than those now used for that purpose.
+
+Carlos Alexander, the alcalde of Escribanos, had made a good thing out
+of the gold mania. The mine had belonged to him; had been sold at a
+fine price, and, passing through several hands, had at last come into
+possession of the Company who were now working it; its former owner
+settling down as ruler over the little community of two hundred souls
+that had collected at Escribanos. He was a black man; was fond of
+talking of his early life in slavery, and how he had escaped; and
+possessed no ordinary intellect. He possessed, also, a house, which in
+England a well-bred hound would not have accepted as a kennel; a white
+wife, and a pretty daughter, with a whity-brown complexion and a
+pleasant name--Juliana.
+
+Of this mine Mr. Day--by whose invitation, when I saw him at Navy Bay,
+I went there--was at that time superintendent. He was a distant
+connection of my late husband, and treated me with great kindness.
+Strangely enough, we met again in a far different part of the world,
+and became more closely connected. But I am anticipating.
+
+The major part of the population of Escribanos, including even the
+women and children, worked at the mine. The labour was hard and
+disagreeable. I often used to watch them at their work; and would
+sometimes wander about by myself, thinking it possible that I might
+tumble across some gold in my rambles. And I once did come upon some
+heavy yellow material, that brought my heart into my mouth with that
+strange thrilling delight which all who have hunted for the precious
+metal understand so well. I think it was very wrong; but I kept the
+secret of the place from the alcalde and every one else, and filled
+some bottles with the precious dust, to carry down to Navy Bay. I did
+not go for some time; but when I did, one of my first visits was to a
+gold-buyer; and you can imagine my feelings when he coolly laughed,
+and told me it was some material (I forget its name) very like gold,
+but--valueless. The worst part of it was that, in my annoyance and
+shame, I threw all I had away, and among it some which I had reason to
+believe subsequently was genuine.
+
+The landing at Escribanos was very difficult, and when the surf ran
+high, impossible; and I was once witness to a harrowing scene there. A
+little boat, manned by three sailors, grounded on a rock not far from
+shore, at a terrible season, when to reach it from the land was, after
+many attempts, found impossible. The hapless crew lingered on for two
+days, suffering cruelly from hunger and thirst, their cries ringing in
+our ears above the storm's pitiless fury. On the third day, two of
+them took to the sea, and were drowned; the third was not strong
+enough to leave the boat, and died in it.
+
+I did not stay long at Escribanos, on my first visit, as the alcalde's
+guest; but, having made arrangements for a longer sojourn, I went back
+to Navy Bay, where I laid in a good stock of the stores I should have
+most use for, and returned to Escribanos in safety. I remained there
+some months, pleased with the novelty of the life, and busy with
+schemes for seeking for--or, as the gold-diggers call it, prospecting
+for--other mines.
+
+The foreigners were just as troublesome in this little out-of-the-way
+place as they were, and are, in every other part of Central America;
+and quarrels were as frequent in our little community as at Cruces or
+Navy Bay. Indeed, Alexander had hard work to maintain peace in his
+small kingdom; and although ably seconded by Mr. Day, more than once
+American disregard of his sway was almost too strong for him. Very
+often the few foreigners would quarrel among themselves; and once when
+they came to blows, and an Irishman was stabbed by an American named
+Campfield, the alcalde roused himself to punish the culprit. The
+native population were glad enough to have an American in their power;
+and when I heard Alexander give his men instructions to shoot the
+culprit if he resisted, I started off to his hut, and reached it in
+time to prevent bloodshed. He was taken and kept in confinement; and
+soft-hearted Juliana and I had enough to do to prevent his being made
+a stern example of. But we got him off for a fine of five hundred
+dollars.
+
+Again the little community of Escribanos was very near getting up a
+revolution against its constituted government--a very common amusement
+in Central America. Twelve sailors, deserters from an American ship,
+found their way there, and before long plotted to dethrone Alexander,
+and take possession of the mine. Mr. Day gained information of their
+plan. The whole population of Escribanos were roused and warned; and
+arming a score of the boldest natives, he surrounded the house in
+which they were, and captured the conspirators, who were too much
+taken by surprise to offer resistance, and sent them down to Navy
+Bay, there to be handed over to the Government whose service they had
+left.
+
+Of course, my medical skill did not rust for want of practice at
+Escribanos. The place was not healthy, and strangers to the climate
+suffered severely. A surgeon himself, sent there by the West Granada
+Gold-mining Company, was glad to throw _his_ physic to the dogs, and
+be cured in my way by mine; while I was fortunately able to nurse Mr.
+Day through a sharp attack of illness.
+
+In consequence of the difficulty of communication with Navy Bay, our
+fare was of the simplest at Escribanos. It consisted mainly of salt
+meat, rice, and roasted Indian corn. The native fare was not tempting,
+and some of their delicacies were absolutely disgusting. With what
+pleasure, for instance, could one foreign to their tastes and habits
+dine off a roasted monkey, whose grilled head bore a strong
+resemblance to a negro baby's? And yet the Indians used to bring them
+to us for sale, strung on a stick. They were worse still stewed in
+soup, when it was positively frightful to dip your ladle in
+unsuspectingly, and bring up what closely resembled a brown baby's
+limb. I got on better with the parrots, and could agree with the
+"senorita, buono buono" with which the natives recommended them; and
+yet their flesh, what little there was of it, was very coarse and
+hard. Nor did I always refuse to concede praise to a squirrel, if well
+cooked. But although the flesh of the iguana--another favourite
+dish--was white and tender as any chicken, I never could stomach it.
+These iguanas are immense green lizards, or rather moderate-sized
+crocodiles, sometimes three feet in length, but weighing generally
+about seven or eight pounds. The Indians used to bring them down in
+boats, alive, on their backs, with their legs tied behind them; so
+that they had the most comical look of distress it is possible to
+imagine. The Spanish Indians have a proverb referring to an iguana so
+bound, the purport of which has slipped from my memory, but which
+shows the habit to be an old one. Their eggs are highly prized, and
+their captors have a cruel habit of extracting these delicacies from
+them while alive, and roughly sewing up the wound, which I never could
+muster sufficient courage to witness.
+
+The rivers near Escribanos were well stocked with crocodiles, the sea
+had its fair share of sharks, while on land you too often met with
+snakes and other venomous reptiles. The sting of some of them was very
+dangerous. One man, who was bitten when I was there, swelled to an
+enormous size, and bled even at the roots of his hair. The remedy of
+the natives appeared to be copious bleeding.
+
+Before I left Escribanos I made a journey, in company with a gentleman
+named Little, my maid, and the alcalde's daughter, into the interior
+of the country, for a short distance, following the course of the
+Palmilla river. This was for the purpose of prospecting a mine on that
+river, said to be obtainable at an easy price. Its course was a very
+winding one; and we often had to leave the canoe and walk through the
+shallow waters, that every now and then interfered with our progress.
+As we progressed, Little carefully sounded the channel of the river,
+with the view of ascertaining to what extent it was navigable.
+
+The tropical scenery was very grand; but I am afraid I only marked
+what was most curious in it--at least, that is foremost in my memory
+now. I know I wondered much what motive Nature could have had in
+twisting the roots and branches of the trees into such strange
+fantastic contortions. I watched with unfailing interest the birds and
+animals we disturbed in our progress, from the huge peccary or wild
+boar, that went tearing through the brushwood, to the tiniest
+bright-hued bird that dashed like a flash of many-coloured fire before
+our eyes. And very much surprised was I when the Indians stopped
+before a large tree, and on their making an incision in the bark with
+a matcheto (hatchet), there exuded a thick creamy liquid, which they
+wished me to taste, saying that this was the famous milk-tree. I
+needed some persuasion at first; but when I had tasted some upon a
+biscuit, I was so charmed with its flavour that I should soon have
+taken more than was good for me had not Mr. Little interfered with
+some judicious advice. We reached the mine, and brought back specimens
+of the quartz, some of which I have now.
+
+Soon after this I left Escribanos, and stopping but a short time at
+Navy Bay, came on direct to England. I had claims on a Mining Company
+which are still unsatisfied; I had to look after my share in the
+Palmilla Mine speculation; and, above all, I had long been troubled
+with a secret desire to embark in a very novel speculation, about
+which I have as yet said nothing to the reader. But before I finally
+leave the republic of New Granada, I may be allowed to write a few
+words on the present aspect of affairs on the Isthmus of Panama.
+
+Recent news from America bring the intelligence that the Government of
+the United States has at length succeeded in finding a reasonable
+excuse for exercising a protectorate over, or in other words
+annexing, the Isthmus of Panama. To any one at all acquainted with
+American policy in Central America, this intelligence can give no
+surprise; our only wonder being that some such excuse was not made
+years ago. At this crisis, then, a few remarks from the humblest
+observer of life in the republic of New Granada must possess some
+interest for the curious, if not value.
+
+I found something to admire in the people of New Granada, but not
+much; and I found very much more to condemn most unequivocally.
+Whatever was of any worth in their institutions, such as their
+comparative freedom, religious toleration, etc., was owing mainly to
+the negroes who had sought the protection of the republic. I found the
+Spanish Indians treacherous, passionate, and indolent, with no higher
+aim or object but simply to enjoy the present after their own torpid,
+useless fashion. Like most fallen nations, they are very conservative
+in their habits and principles; while the blacks are enterprising, and
+in their opinions incline not unnaturally to democracy. But for their
+old antipathy, there is no doubt that the negroes would lean towards
+America; but they gladly encourage the prejudice of the New Granadans,
+and foster it in every way. Hence the ceaseless quarrels which have
+disturbed Chagres and Panama, until it has become necessary for an
+American force to garrison those towns. For humanity and
+civilization's sake, there can be little doubt as to the expediency of
+this step; but I should not be at all surprised to hear that the
+republic was preparing to make some show of resistance against its
+powerful brother; for, as the reader will have perceived, the New
+Granadans' experiences of American manners have not been favourable;
+and they do not know, as we do, how little real sympathy the
+Government of the United States has with the extreme class of its
+citizens who have made themselves so conspicuous in the great
+high-road to California.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    I LONG TO JOIN THE BRITISH ARMY BEFORE SEBASTOPOL--MY
+    WANDERINGS ABOUT LONDON FOR THAT PURPOSE--HOW I
+    FAIL--ESTABLISHMENT OF THE FIRM OF "DAY AND MARTIN"--I
+    EMBARK FOR TURKEY.
+
+
+Before I left Jamaica for Navy Bay, as narrated in the last chapter,
+war had been declared against Russia, and we were all anxiously
+expecting news of a descent upon the Crimea. Now, no sooner had I
+heard of war somewhere, than I longed to witness it; and when I was
+told that many of the regiments I had known so well in Jamaica had
+left England for the scene of action, the desire to join them became
+stronger than ever. I used to stand for hours in silent thought before
+an old map of the world, in a little corner of which some one had
+chalked a red cross, to enable me to distinguish where the Crimea was;
+and as I traced the route thither, all difficulties would vanish. But
+when I came to talk over the project with my friends, the best scheme
+I could devise seemed so wild and improbable, that I was fain to
+resign my hopes for a time, and so started for Navy Bay.
+
+But all the way to England, from Navy Bay, I was turning my old wish
+over and over in my mind; and when I found myself in London, in the
+autumn of 1854, just after the battle of Alma had been fought, and my
+old friends were fairly before the walls of Sebastopol, how to join
+them there took up far more of my thoughts than that visionary
+gold-mining speculation on the river Palmilla, which seemed so
+feasible to us in New Granada, but was considered so wild and
+unprofitable a speculation in London. And, as time wore on, the
+inclination to join my old friends of the 97th, 48th, and other
+regiments, battling with worse foes than yellow fever or cholera, took
+such exclusive possession of my mind, that I threw over the gold
+speculation altogether, and devoted all my energies to my new scheme.
+
+Heaven knows it was visionary enough! I had no friends who could help
+me in such a project--nay, who would understand why I desired to go,
+and what I desired to do when I got there. My funds, although they
+might, carefully husbanded, carry me over the three thousand miles,
+and land me at Balaclava, would not support me there long; while to
+persuade the public that an unknown Creole woman would be useful to
+their army before Sebastopol was too improbable an achievement to be
+thought of for an instant. Circumstances, however, assisted me.
+
+As the winter wore on, came hints from various quarters of
+mismanagement, want, and suffering in the Crimea; and after the
+battles of Balaclava and Inkermann, and the fearful storm of the 14th
+of November, the worst anticipations were realized. Then we knew that
+the hospitals were full to suffocation, that scarcity and exposure
+were the fate of all in the camp, and that the brave fellows for whom
+any of us at home would have split our last shilling, and shared our
+last meal, were dying thousands of miles away from the active sympathy
+of their fellow-countrymen. Fast and thick upon the news of Inkermann,
+fought by a handful of fasting and enfeebled men against eight times
+their number of picked Russians, brought fresh and animated to the
+contest, and while all England was reeling beneath the shock of that
+fearful victory, came the sad news that hundreds were dying whom the
+Russian shot and sword had spared, and that the hospitals of Scutari
+were utterly unable to shelter, or their inadequate staff to attend
+to, the ship-loads of sick and wounded which were sent to them across
+the stormy Black Sea.
+
+But directly England knew the worst, she set about repairing her past
+neglect. In every household busy fingers were working for the poor
+soldier--money flowed in golden streams wherever need was--and
+Christian ladies, mindful of the sublime example, "I was sick, and ye
+visited me," hastened to volunteer their services by those sick-beds
+which only women know how to soothe and bless.
+
+Need I be ashamed to confess that I shared in the general enthusiasm,
+and longed more than ever to carry my busy (and the reader will not
+hesitate to add experienced) fingers where the sword or bullet had
+been busiest, and pestilence most rife. I had seen much of sorrow and
+death elsewhere, but they had never daunted me; and if I could feel
+happy binding up the wounds of quarrelsome Americans and treacherous
+Spaniards, what delight should I not experience if I could be useful
+to my own "sons," suffering for a cause it was so glorious to fight
+and bleed for! I never stayed to discuss probabilities, or enter into
+conjectures as to my chances of reaching the scene of action. I made
+up my mind that if the army wanted nurses, they would be glad of me,
+and with all the ardour of my nature, which ever carried me where
+inclination prompted, I decided that I _would_ go to the Crimea; and
+go I did, as all the world knows.
+
+Of course, had it not been for my old strong-mindedness (which has
+nothing to do with obstinacy, and is in no way related to it--the best
+term I can think of to express it being "judicious decisiveness"), I
+should have given up the scheme a score of times in as many days; so
+regularly did each successive day give birth to a fresh set of rebuffs
+and disappointments. I shall make no excuse to my readers for giving
+them a pretty full history of my struggles to become a Crimean
+_heroine_!
+
+My first idea (and knowing that I was well fitted for the work, and
+would be the right woman in the right place, the reader can fancy my
+audacity) was to apply to the War Office for the post of hospital
+nurse. Among the diseases which I understood were most prevalent in
+the Crimea were cholera, diarrhoea, and dysentery, all of them more
+or less known in tropical climates; and with which, as the reader will
+remember, my Panama experience had made me tolerably familiar. Now, no
+one will accuse me of presumption, if I say that I thought (and so it
+afterwards proved) that my knowledge of these human ills would not
+only render my services as a nurse more valuable, but would enable me
+to be of use to the overworked doctors. That others thought so too, I
+took with me ample testimony. I cannot resist the temptation of
+giving my readers one of the testimonials I had, it seems so eminently
+practical and to the point:--
+
+    "I became acquainted with Mrs. Seacole through the
+    instrumentality of T. B. Cowan, Esq., H. B. M. Consul at
+    Colon, on the Isthmus of Panama, and have had many
+    opportunities of witnessing her professional zeal and
+    ability in the treatment of aggravated forms of tropical
+    diseases.
+
+    "I am myself personally much indebted for her
+    indefatigable kindness and skill at a time when I am apt
+    to believe the advice of a practitioner qualified in the
+    North would have little availed.
+
+    "Her peculiar fitness, in a constitutional point of
+    view, for the duties of a medical attendant, needs no
+    comment.
+
+        (Signed) "A. G. M.,
+
+            "Late Medical Officer, West Granada
+                Gold-mining Company."
+
+So I made long and unwearied application at the War Office, in
+blissful ignorance of the labour and time I was throwing away. I have
+reason to believe that I considerably interfered with the repose of
+sundry messengers, and disturbed, to an alarming degree, the official
+gravity of some nice gentlemanly young fellows, who were working out
+their salaries in an easy, off-hand way. But my ridiculous endeavours
+to gain an interview with the Secretary-at-War of course failed, and
+glad at last to oblige a distracted messenger, I transferred my
+attentions to the Quartermaster-General's department. Here I saw
+another gentleman, who listened to me with a great deal of polite
+enjoyment, and--his amusement ended--hinted, had I not better apply
+to the Medical Department; and accordingly I attached myself to their
+quarters with the same unwearying ardour. But, of course, I grew tired
+at last, and then I changed my plans.
+
+Now, I am not for a single instant going to blame the authorities who
+would not listen to the offer of a motherly yellow woman to go to the
+Crimea and nurse her "sons" there, suffering from cholera,
+diarrhoea, and a host of lesser ills. In my country, where people
+know our use, it would have been different; but here it was natural
+enough--although I had references, and other voices spoke for me--that
+they should laugh, good-naturedly enough, at my offer. War, I know, is
+a serious game, but sometimes very humble actors are of great use in
+it, and if the reader, when he comes in time to peruse the evidence of
+those who had to do with the Sebastopol drama, of my share in it, will
+turn back to this chapter, he will confess perhaps that, after all,
+the impulse which led me to the War Department was not unnatural.
+
+My new scheme was, I candidly confess, worse devised than the one
+which had failed. Miss Nightingale had left England for the Crimea,
+but other nurses were still to follow, and my new plan was simply to
+offer myself to Mrs. H---- as a recruit. Feeling that I was one of the
+very women they most wanted, experienced and fond of the work, I
+jumped at once to the conclusion that they would gladly enrol me in
+their number. To go to Cox's, the army agents, who were most obliging
+to me, and obtain the Secretary-at-War's private address, did not take
+long; and that done, I laid the same pertinacious siege to his great
+house in ---- Square, as I had previously done to his place of
+business.
+
+Many a long hour did I wait in his great hall, while scores passed in
+and out; many of them looking curiously at me. The flunkeys, noble
+creatures! marvelled exceedingly at the yellow woman whom no excuses
+could get rid of, nor impertinence dismay, and showed me very clearly
+that they resented my persisting in remaining there in mute appeal
+from their sovereign will. At last I gave that up, after a message
+from Mrs. H. that the full complement of nurses had been secured, and
+that my offer could not be entertained. Once again I tried, and had an
+interview this time with one of Miss Nightingale's companions. She
+gave me the same reply, and I read in her face the fact, that had
+there been a vacancy, I should not have been chosen to fill it.
+
+As a last resort, I applied to the managers of the Crimean Fund to
+know whether they would give me a passage to the camp--once there I
+would trust to something turning up. But this failed also, and one
+cold evening I stood in the twilight, which was fast deepening into
+wintry night, and looked back upon the ruins of my last castle in the
+air. The disappointment seemed a cruel one. I was so conscious of the
+unselfishness of the motives which induced me to leave England--so
+certain of the service I could render among the sick soldiery, and yet
+I found it so difficult to convince others of these facts. Doubts and
+suspicions arose in my heart for the first and last time, thank
+Heaven. Was it possible that American prejudices against colour had
+some root here? Did these ladies shrink from accepting my aid because
+my blood flowed beneath a somewhat duskier skin than theirs? Tears
+streamed down my foolish cheeks, as I stood in the fast thinning
+streets; tears of grief that any should doubt my motives--that Heaven
+should deny me the opportunity that I sought. Then I stood still, and
+looking upward through and through the dark clouds that shadowed
+London, prayed aloud for help. I dare say that I was a strange sight
+to the few passers-by, who hastened homeward through the gloom and
+mist of that wintry night. I dare say those who read these pages will
+wonder at me as much as they who saw me did; but you must all remember
+that I am one of an impulsive people, and find it hard to put that
+restraint upon my feelings which to you is so easy and natural.
+
+The morrow, however, brought fresh hope. A good night's rest had
+served to strengthen my determination. Let what might happen, to the
+Crimea I would go. If in no other way, then would I upon my own
+responsibility and at my own cost. There were those there who had
+known me in Jamaica, who had been under my care; doctors who would
+vouch for my skill and willingness to aid them, and a general who had
+more than once helped me, and would do so still. Why not trust to
+their welcome and kindness, and start at once? If the authorities had
+allowed me, I would willingly have given them my services as a nurse;
+but as they declined them, should I not open an hotel for invalids in
+the Crimea in my own way? I had no more idea of what the Crimea was
+than the home authorities themselves perhaps, but having once made up
+my mind, it was not long before cards were printed and speeding across
+the Mediterranean to my friends before Sebastopol. Here is one of
+them:--
+
+        "BRITISH HOTEL.
+        Mrs. Mary Seacole
+        (_Late of Kingston, Jamaica_),
+
+      Respectfully announces to her former kind friends,
+      and to the Officers of the Army and Navy generally,
+
+    That she has taken her passage in the screw-steamer
+    "Hollander," to start from London on the 25th of
+    January, intending on her arrival at Balaclava to
+    establish a mess table and comfortable quarters for sick
+    and convalescent officers."
+
+This bold programme would reach the Crimea in the end of January, at a
+time when any officer would have considered a stall in an English
+stable luxurious quarters compared to those he possessed, and had
+nearly forgotten the comforts of a mess-table. It must have read to
+them rather like a mockery, and yet, as the reader will see, I
+succeeded in redeeming my pledge.
+
+While this new scheme was maturing, I again met Mr. Day in England. He
+was bound to Balaclava upon some shipping business, and we came to the
+understanding that (if it were found desirable) we should together
+open a store as well as an hotel in the neighbourhood of the camp. So
+was originated the well-known firm of Seacole and Day (I am sorry to
+say, the camp wits dubbed it Day and Martin), which, for so many
+months, did business upon the now deserted high-road from the then
+busy harbour of Balaclava to the front of the British army before
+Sebastopol.
+
+These new arrangements were not allowed to interfere in any way with
+the main object of my journey. A great portion of my limited capital
+was, with the kind aid of a medical friend, invested in medicines
+which I had reason to believe would be useful; with the remainder I
+purchased those home comforts which I thought would be most difficult
+to obtain away from England.
+
+I had scarcely set my foot on board the "Hollander," before I met a
+friend. The supercargo was the brother of the Mr. S----, whose death
+in Jamaica the reader will not have forgotten, and he gave me a hearty
+welcome. I thought the meeting augured well, and when I told him my
+plans he gave me the most cheering encouragement. I was glad, indeed,
+of any support, for, beyond all doubt, my project was a hazardous one.
+
+So cheered at the outset, I watched without a pang the shores of
+England sink behind the smooth sea, and turned my gaze hopefully to
+the as yet landless horizon, beyond which lay that little peninsula to
+which the eyes and hearts of all England were so earnestly directed.
+
+So, cheerily! the good ship ploughed its way eastward ho! for Turkey.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+    VOYAGE TO CONSTANTINOPLE--MALTA--GIBRALTAR--CONSTANTINOPLE,
+    AND WHAT I THOUGHT OF IT--VISIT TO SCUTARI HOSPITAL--MISS
+    NIGHTINGALE.
+
+
+I am not going to risk the danger of wearying the reader with a long
+account of the voyage to Constantinople, already worn threadbare by
+book-making tourists. It was a very interesting one, and, as I am a
+good sailor, I had not even the temporary horrors of sea-sickness to
+mar it. The weather, although cold, was fine, and the sea
+good-humouredly calm, and I enjoyed the voyage amazingly. And as day
+by day we drew nearer to the scene of action, my doubts of success
+grew less and less, until I had a conviction of the rightness of the
+step I had taken, which would have carried me buoyantly through any
+difficulties.
+
+On the way, of course, I was called up from my berth at an
+unreasonable hour to gaze upon the Cape of St. Vincent, and expected
+to feel duly impressed when the long bay where Trafalgar's fight was
+won came in view, with the white convent walls on the cliffs above
+bathed in the early sunlight. I never failed to take an almost
+childish interest in the signals which passed between the "Hollander"
+and the fleet of vessels whose sails whitened the track to and from
+the Crimea, trying to puzzle out the language these children of the
+ocean spoke in their hurried course, and wondering whether any, or
+what sufficiently important thing _could_ happen which would warrant
+their stopping on their busy way.
+
+We spent a short time at Gibraltar, and you may imagine that I was
+soon on shore making the best use of the few hours' reprieve granted
+to the "Hollander's" weary engines. I had an idea that I should do
+better alone, so I declined all offers of companionship, and selecting
+a brisk young fellow from the mob of cicerones who offered their
+services, saw more of the art of fortification in an hour or so than I
+could understand in as many years. The pleasure was rather fatiguing,
+and I was not sorry to return to the market-place, where I stood
+curiously watching its strange and motley population. While so
+engaged, I heard for the first time an exclamation which became
+familiar enough to me afterwards.
+
+"Why, bless my soul, old fellow, if this is not our good old Mother
+Seacole!" I turned round, and saw two officers, whose features, set in
+a broad frame of Crimean beard, I had some difficulty in recognising.
+But I soon remembered that they were two of the 48th, who had been
+often in my house at Kingston. Glad were the kind-hearted fellows, and
+not a little surprised withal, to meet their old hostess in the
+market-place of Gibraltar, bound for the scene of action which they
+had left invalided; and it was not long before we were talking old
+times over some wine--Spanish, I suppose--but it was very nasty.
+
+"And you are going to the front, old lady--you, of all people in the
+world?"
+
+"Why not, my sons?--won't they be glad to have me there?"
+
+"By Jove! yes, mother," answered one, an Irishman. "It isn't many
+women--God bless them!--we've had to spoil us out there. But it's not
+the place even for you, who know what hardship is. You'll never get a
+roof to cover you at Balaclava, nor on the road either." So they
+rattled on, telling me of the difficulties that were in store for me.
+But they could not shake my resolution.
+
+"Do you think I shall be of any use to you when I get there?"
+
+"Surely."
+
+"Then I'll go, were the place a hundred times worse than you describe
+it. Can't I rig up a hut with the packing-cases, and sleep, if need
+be, on straw, like Margery Daw?"
+
+So they laughed, and drank success to me, and to our next meeting;
+for, although they were going home invalided, the brave fellows'
+hearts were with their companions, for all the hardships they had
+passed through.
+
+We stopped at Malta also, where, of course, I landed, and stared about
+me, and submitted to be robbed by the lazy Maltese with all a
+traveller's resignation. Here, also, I met friends--some medical
+officers who had known me in Kingston; and one of them, Dr. F----,
+lately arrived from Scutari, gave me, when he heard my plans, a letter
+of introduction to Miss Nightingale, then hard at work, evoking order
+out of confusion, and bravely resisting the despotism of death, at the
+hospital of Scutari.
+
+So on, past beautiful islands and shores, until we are steaming
+against a swift current, and an adverse wind, between two
+tower-crested promontories of rock, which they tell me stand in Europe
+and in Asia, and are connected with some pretty tale of love in days
+long gone by. Ah! travel where a woman may, in the New World, or the
+Old, she meets this old, old tale everywhere. It is the one bond of
+sympathy which I have found existing in three quarters of the world
+alike. So on, until the cable rattles over the windlass, as the good
+ship's anchor plunges down fathoms deep into the blue waters of the
+Bosphorus--her voyage ended.
+
+I do not think that Constantinople impressed me so much as I had
+expected; and I thought its streets would match those of Navy Bay not
+unfairly. The caicques, also, of which I had ample experience--for I
+spent six days here, wandering about Pera and Stamboul in the daytime,
+and returning to the "Hollander" at nightfall--might be made more
+safe and commodious for stout ladies, even if the process interfered a
+little with their ornament. Time and trouble combined have left me
+with a well-filled-out, portly form--the envy of many an angular
+Yankee female--and, more than once, it was in no slight danger of
+becoming too intimately acquainted with the temperature of the
+Bosphorus. But I will do the Turkish boatmen the justice to say that
+they were as politely careful of my safety as their astonishment and
+regard for the well-being of their caicques (which they appear to love
+as an Arab does his horse, or an Esquimaux his dogs, and for the same
+reason perhaps) would admit. Somewhat surprised, also, seemed the
+cunning-eyed Greeks, who throng the streets of Pera, at the
+unprotected Creole woman, who took Constantinople so coolly (it would
+require something more to surprise her); while the grave English
+raised their eyebrows wonderingly, and the more vivacious French
+shrugged their pliant shoulders into the strangest contortions. I
+accepted it all as a compliment to a stout female tourist, neatly
+dressed in a red or yellow dress, a plain shawl of some other colour,
+and a simple straw wide-awake, with bright red streamers. I flatter
+myself that I woke up sundry sleepy-eyed Turks, who seemed to think
+that the great object of life was to avoid showing surprise at
+anything; while the Turkish women gathered around me, and jabbered
+about me, in the most flattering manner.
+
+How I ever succeeded in getting Mr. Day's letters from the
+Post-office, Constantinople, puzzles me now; but I did--and I shall
+ever regard my success as one of the great triumphs of my life. Their
+contents were not very cheering. He gave a very dreary account of
+Balaclava and of camp life, and almost dissuaded me from continuing my
+journey; but his last letter ended by giving me instructions as to the
+purchases I had best make, if I still determined upon making the
+adventure; so I forgot all the rest, and busied myself in laying in
+the stores he recommended.
+
+But I found time, before I left the "Hollander," to charter a crazy
+caicque, to carry me to Scutari, intending to present Dr. F----'s
+letter to Miss Nightingale.
+
+It was afternoon when the boatmen set me down in safety at the
+landing-place of Scutari, and I walked up the slight ascent, to the
+great dull-looking hospital. Thinking of the many noble fellows who
+had been borne, or had painfully crept along this path, only to die
+within that dreary building, I felt rather dull; and directly I
+entered the hospital, and came upon the long wards of sufferers, lying
+there so quiet and still, a rush of tears came to my eyes, and blotted
+out the sight for a few minutes. But I soon felt at home, and looked
+about me with great interest. The men were, many of them, very quiet.
+Some of the convalescent formed themselves into little groups around
+one who read a newspaper; others had books in their hands, or by their
+side, where they had fallen when slumber overtook the readers, while
+hospital orderlies moved to and fro, and now and then the female
+nurses, in their quiet uniform, passed noiselessly on some mission of
+kindness.
+
+I was fortunate enough to find an old acquaintance, who accompanied me
+through the wards, and rendered it unnecessary for me to trouble the
+busy nurses. This was an old 97th man--a Sergeant T----, whom I had
+known in Kingston, and who was slowly recovering from an attack of
+dysentery, and making himself of use here until the doctors should let
+him go back and have another "shy at the Rooshians." He is very glad
+to meet me, and tells me his history very socially, and takes me to
+the bedsides of some comrades, who had also known me at Up-Park Camp.
+My poor fellows! how their eyes glisten when they light upon an old
+friend's face in these Turkish barracks--put to so sad a use, three
+thousand miles from home. Here is one of them--"hurt in the trenches,"
+says the Sergeant, with shaven bandaged head, and bright, restless,
+Irish eyes, who hallooes out, "Mother Seacole! Mother Seacole!" in
+such an excited tone of voice; and when he has shaken hands a score of
+times, falls back upon his pillow very wearily. But I sit by his side,
+and try to cheer him with talk about the future, when he shall grow
+well, and see home, and hear them all thank him for what he has been
+helping to do, so that he grows all right in a few minutes; but,
+hearing that I am on the way to the front, gets excited again; for,
+you see, illness and weakness make these strong men as children, not
+least in the patient unmurmuring resignation with which they suffer. I
+think my Irish friend had an indistinct idea of a "muddle" somewhere,
+which had kept him for weeks on salt meat and biscuit, until it gave
+him the "scurvy," for he is very anxious that I should take over
+plenty of vegetables, of every sort. "And, oh! mother!"--and it is
+strange to hear his almost plaintive tone as he urges this--"take them
+plenty of eggs, mother; we never saw eggs over there."
+
+At some slight risk of giving offence, I cannot resist the temptation
+of lending a helping hand here and there--replacing a slipped
+bandage, or easing a stiff one. But I do not think any one was
+offended; and one doctor, who had with some surprise and, at first,
+alarm on his face, watched me replace a bandage, which was giving
+pain, said, very kindly, when I had finished, "Thank you, ma'am."
+
+One thought never left my mind as I walked through the fearful miles
+of suffering in that great hospital. If it is so here, what must it
+not be at the scene of war--on the spot where the poor fellows are
+stricken down by pestilence or Russian bullets, and days and nights of
+agony must be passed before a woman's hand can dress their wounds. And
+I felt happy in the conviction that _I must_ be useful three or four
+days nearer to their pressing wants than this.
+
+It was growing late before I felt tired, or thought of leaving
+Scutari, and Dr. S----, another Jamaica friend, who had kindly borne
+me company for the last half-hour agreed with me that the caicque was
+not the safest conveyance by night on the Bosphorus, and recommended
+me to present my letter to Miss Nightingale, and perhaps a lodging for
+the night could be found for me. So, still under the Sergeant's
+patient guidance, we thread our way through passages and corridors,
+all used as sick-wards, until we reach the corner tower of the
+building, in which are the nurses' quarters.
+
+I think Mrs. B----, who saw me, felt more surprise than she could
+politely show (I never found women so quick to understand me as the
+men) when I handed her Dr. F----'s kind letter respecting me, and
+apologized for troubling Miss Nightingale. There is that in the
+Doctor's letter (he had been much at Scutari) which prevents my
+request being refused, and I am asked to wait until Miss Nightingale,
+whose every moment is valuable, can see me. Meanwhile Mrs. B.
+questions me very kindly, but with the same look of curiosity and
+surprise.
+
+What object has Mrs. Seacole in coming out? This is the purport of her
+questions. And I say, frankly, to be of use somewhere; for other
+considerations I had not, until necessity forced them upon me.
+Willingly, had they accepted me, I would have worked for the wounded,
+in return for bread and water. I fancy Mrs. B---- thought that I
+sought for employment at Scutari, for she said, very kindly--
+
+"Miss Nightingale has the entire management of our hospital staff, but
+I do not think that any vacancy--"
+
+"Excuse me, ma'am," I interrupt her with, "but I am bound for the
+front in a few days;" and my questioner leaves me, more surprised than
+ever. The room I waited in was used as a kitchen. Upon the stoves were
+cans of soup, broth, and arrow-root, while nurses passed in and out
+with noiseless tread and subdued manner. I thought many of them had
+that strange expression of the eyes which those who have gazed long on
+scenes of woe or horror seldom lose.
+
+In half an hour's time I am admitted to Miss Nightingale's presence. A
+slight figure, in the nurses' dress; with a pale, gentle, and withal
+firm face, resting lightly in the palm of one white hand, while the
+other supports the elbow--a position which gives to her countenance a
+keen inquiring expression, which is rather marked. Standing thus in
+repose, and yet keenly observant--the greatest sign of impatience at
+any time[B] a slight, perhaps unwitting motion of the firmly planted
+right foot--was Florence Nightingale--that Englishwoman whose name
+shall never die, but sound like music on the lips of British men until
+the hour of doom.
+
+She has read Dr. F----'s letter, which lies on the table by her side,
+and asks, in her gentle but eminently practical and business-like way,
+"What do you want, Mrs. Seacole--anything that we can do for you? If
+it lies in my power, I shall be very happy."
+
+So I tell her of my dread of the night journey by caicque, and the
+improbability of my finding the "Hollander" in the dark; and, with
+some diffidence, threw myself upon the hospitality of Scutari,
+offering to nurse the sick for the night. Now unfortunately, for many
+reasons, room even for one in Scutari Hospital was at that time no
+easy matter to find; but at last a bed was discovered to be unoccupied
+at the hospital washerwomen's quarters.
+
+My experience of washerwomen, all the world over, is the same--that
+they are kind soft-hearted folks. Possibly the soap-suds they almost
+live in find their way into their hearts and tempers, and soften them.
+This Scutari washerwoman is no exception to the rule, and welcomes me
+most heartily. With her, also, are some invalid nurses; and after they
+have gone to bed, we spend some hours of the night talking over our
+adventures, and giving one another scraps of our respective
+biographies. I hadn't long retired to my couch before I wished most
+heartily that we had continued our chat; for unbidden and most
+unwelcome companions took the washerwoman's place, and persisted not
+only in dividing my bed, but my plump person also. Upon my word, I
+believe the fleas are the only industrious creatures in all Turkey.
+Some of their relatives would seem to have migrated into Russia; for I
+found them in the Crimea equally prosperous and ubiquitous.
+
+In the morning, a breakfast is sent to my mangled remains, and a kind
+message from Mrs. B----, having reference to how I spent the night.
+And, after an interview with some other medical men, whose
+acquaintance I had made in Jamaica, I shake hands with the
+soft-hearted washerwoman, up to her shoulders in soap-suds already,
+and start for the "Hollander."
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[B] Subsequently I saw much of Miss Nightingale, at Balaclava.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    "JEW JOHNNY"--I START FOR BALACLAVA--KINDNESS OF MY OLD
+    FRIENDS--ON BOARD THE "MEDORA"--MY LIFE ON SHORE--THE
+    SICK WHARF.
+
+
+During my stay in Constantinople, I was accustomed to employ, as a
+guide, a young Greek Jew, whose name it is no use my attempting to
+spell, but whom I called by the one common name there--"Johnny."
+Wishing, however, to distinguish my Johnny from the legion of other
+Johnnies, I prefixed the term Jew to his other name, and addressed him
+as Jew Johnny. How he had picked up his knowledge I cannot tell, but
+he could talk a little broken English, besides French, which, had I
+been qualified to criticise it, I should have found, perhaps, as
+broken as his English. He attached himself very closely to me, and
+seemed very anxious to share my fortunes; and after he had pleaded
+hard, many times, to be taken to the Crimea, I gave in, and formally
+hired him. He was the best and faithfullest servant I had in the
+Crimea, and, so far from regretting having picked up Jew Johnny from
+the streets of Pera, I should have been very badly off without him.
+
+More letters come from Mr. Day, giving even worse accounts of the
+state of things at Balaclava; but it is too late for hesitation now.
+My plans are perfected, my purchases made, and passage secured in the
+"Albatross"--a transport laden with cattle and commissariat officers
+for Balaclava. I thought I should never have transported my things
+from the "Hollander" to the "Albatross." It was a terrible day, and
+against the strong current and hurricane of wind Turkish and Greek
+arms seemed of little avail; but at last, after an hour or more of
+terrible anxiety and fear, the "Albatross's" side was reached, and I
+clambered on deck, drenched and wretched.
+
+My companions are cheerful, pleasant fellows, and the short, although
+somewhat hazardous, voyage across the Black Sea is safely made, and
+one morning we become excited at seeing a dark rock-bound coast, on
+which they tell us is Balaclava. As we steam on we see, away to the
+right, clouds of light smoke, which the knowing travellers tell us are
+not altogether natural, but show that Sebastopol is not yet taken,
+until the "Albatross" lays-to within sight of where the "Prince," with
+her ill-fated companions, went down in that fearful November storm,
+four short months ago, while application is made to the harbour-master
+for leave to enter the port of Balaclava. It does not appear the
+simplest favour in the world that we are applying for--licence to
+escape from the hazards of the Black Sea. But at last it comes, and we
+slowly wind through a narrow channel, and emerge into a small
+landlocked basin, so filled with shipping that their masts bend in the
+breeze like a wintry forest. Whatever might have been the case at one
+time, there is order in Balaclava Harbour now, and the "Albatross,"
+with the aid of her boats, moves along to her appointed moorings.
+
+Such a busy scene as that small harbour presented could be rarely met
+with elsewhere. Crowded with shipping, of every size and variety, from
+the noble English steamer to the smallest long-shore craft, while
+between them and the shore passed and repassed innumerable boats;
+men-of-war's boats, trim and stern; merchant-ship's boats, laden to
+the gunwales; Greek and Maltese boats, carrying their owners
+everywhere on their missions of sharp dealing and roguery. Coming from
+the quiet gloomy sea into this little nook of life and bustle the
+transition is very sudden and startling, and gives one enough to think
+about without desiring to go on shore this afternoon.
+
+On the following morning, Mr. Day, apprised of my arrival, came on
+board the "Albatross," and our plans were laid. I must leave the
+"Albatross," of course, and, until we decide upon our future, I had
+better take up my quarters on board the "Medora," which is hired by
+the Government, at a great cost, as an ammunition ship. The proposal
+was not a very agreeable one, but I have no choice left me. Our
+stores, too, had to be landed at once. Warehouses were unheard of in
+Balaclava, and we had to stack them upon the shore and protect them as
+well as we were able.
+
+My first task, directly I had become settled on board the "Medora,"
+was to send word to my friends of my arrival in the Crimea, and
+solicit their aid. I gave a Greek idler one pound to carry a letter
+to the camp of the 97th, while I sent another to Captain Peel, who was
+hard at work battering the defences of Sebastopol about the ears of
+the Russians, from the batteries of the Royal Naval Brigade. I
+addressed others to many of the medical men who had known me in other
+lands; nor did I neglect to send word to my kind patron, Sir John
+Campbell, then commanding a division: and my old friends answered my
+letters most kindly. As the various officers came down on duty or
+business to Balaclava they did not fail to find me out, and welcome me
+to the Crimea, while Captain Peel and Sir J. Campbell sent the kindest
+messages; and when they saw me, promised me every assistance, the
+General adding that he is glad to see me where there is so much to do.
+Among others, poor H. Vicars, whose kind face had so often lighted up
+my old house in Kingston, came to take me by the hand in this
+out-of-the-way corner of the world. I never felt so sure of the
+success of any step as I did of this, before I had been a week in
+Balaclava. But I had plenty of difficulties to contend with on every
+side.
+
+Among the first, one of the ships, in which were many of our stores,
+the "Nonpareil," was ordered out of the harbour before we could land
+them all, and there was more than a probability that she would carry
+back to Constantinople many of the things we had most pressing
+occasion for. It became necessary, therefore, that some one should see
+Admiral Boxer, and try to interest that mild-spoken and affable
+officer in our favour. When I mentioned it to Mr. Day, he did not seem
+inclined to undertake the mission, and nothing was left but for me to
+face the terrible Port-Admiral. Fortunately, Captain H----, of the
+"Diamond," was inclined to be my friend, and, not a little amused
+with his mission, carried me right off to the Admiral. I confess that
+I was as nearly frightened out of my wits as I ever have been, for the
+Admiral's kind heart beat under a decidedly rough husk; and when
+Captain H---- told him that I wanted his permission for the
+"Nonpareil" to remain in the harbour for a few days, as there were
+stores on board, he let fly enough hard words to frighten any woman.
+But when I spoke up, and told him that I had known his son in the West
+Indies, he relented, and granted my petition. But it was not without
+more hard words, and much grumbling that a parcel of women should be
+coming out to a place where they were not wanted.
+
+Now, the Admiral did not repeat this remark a few days afterwards,
+when he saw me attending the sick and wounded upon the sick wharf.
+
+I remained six weeks in Balaclava, spending my days on shore, and my
+nights on board ship. Over our stores, stacked on the shore, a few
+sheets of rough tarpaulin were suspended; and beneath these--my sole
+protection against the Crimean rain and wind--I spent some portion of
+each day, receiving visitors and selling stores.
+
+But my chief occupation, and one with which I never allowed any
+business to interfere, was helping the doctors to transfer the sick
+and wounded from the mules and ambulances into the transports that had
+to carry them to the hospitals of Scutari and Buyukdere. I did not
+forget the main object of my journey, to which I would have devoted
+myself exclusively had I been allowed; and very familiar did I become
+before long with the sick wharf of Balaclava. My acquaintance with it
+began very shortly after I had reached Balaclava. The very first day
+that I approached the wharf, a party of sick and wounded had just
+arrived. Here was work for me, I felt sure. With so many patients, the
+doctors must be glad of all the hands they could get. Indeed, so
+strong was the old impulse within me, that I waited for no permission,
+but seeing a poor artilleryman stretched upon a pallet, groaning
+heavily, I ran up to him at once, and eased the stiff dressings.
+Lightly my practised fingers ran over the familiar work, and well was
+I rewarded when the poor fellow's groans subsided into a restless
+uneasy mutter. God help him! He had been hit in the forehead, and I
+think his sight was gone. I stooped down, and raised some tea to his
+baked lips (here and there upon the wharf were rows of little
+pannikins containing this beverage). Then his hand touched mine, and
+rested there, and I heard him mutter indistinctly, as though the
+discovery had arrested his wandering senses--
+
+"Ha! this is surely a woman's hand."
+
+I couldn't say much, but I tried to whisper something about hope and
+trust in God; but all the while I think his thoughts were running on
+this strange discovery. Perhaps I had brought to his poor mind
+memories of his home, and the loving ones there, who would ask no
+greater favour than the privilege of helping him thus; for he
+continued to hold my hand in his feeble grasp, and whisper "God bless
+you, _woman_--whoever you are, God bless you!"--over and over again.
+
+I do not think that the surgeons noticed me at first, although, as
+this was my introduction to Balaclava, I had not neglected my personal
+appearance, and wore my favourite yellow dress, and blue bonnet, with
+the red ribbons; but I noticed one coming to me, who, I think, would
+have laughed very merrily had it not been for the poor fellow at my
+feet. As it was, he came forward, and shook hands very kindly, saying,
+"How do you do, ma'am? Much obliged to you for looking after my poor
+fellow; very glad to see you here." And glad they always were, the
+kind-hearted doctors, to let me help them look after the sick and
+wounded sufferers brought to that fearful wharf.
+
+I wonder if I can ever forget the scenes I witnessed there? Oh! they
+were heartrending. I declare that I saw rough bearded men stand by and
+cry like the softest-hearted women at the sights of suffering they
+saw; while some who scorned comfort for themselves, would fidget about
+for hours before the long trains of mules and ambulances came in,
+nervous lest the most trifling thing that could minister to the
+sufferers' comfort should be neglected. I have often heard men talk
+and preach very learnedly and conclusively about the great wickedness
+and selfishness of the human heart; I used to wonder whether they
+would have modified those opinions if they had been my companions for
+one day of the six weeks I spent upon that wharf, and seen but one
+day's experience of the Christian sympathy and brotherly love shown by
+the strong to the weak. The task was a trying one, and familiarity,
+you might think, would have worn down their keener feelings of pity
+and sympathy; but it was not so.
+
+I was in the midst of my sad work one day when the Admiral came up,
+and stood looking on. He vouchsafed no word nor look of recognition in
+answer to my salute, but stood silently by, his hands behind his back,
+watching the sick being lifted into the boats. You might have thought
+that he had little feeling, so stern and expressionless was his face;
+but once, when they raised a sufferer somewhat awkwardly, and he
+groaned deeply, that rough man broke out all at once with an oath,
+that was strangely like a prayer, and bade the men, for God's sake,
+take more care. And, coming up to me, he clapped me on the shoulder,
+saying, "I am glad to see you here, old lady, among these poor
+fellows;" while, I am most strangely deceived if I did not see a
+tear-drop gathering in his eye. It was on this same day, I think, that
+bending down over a poor fellow whose senses had quite gone, and, I
+fear me, would never return to him in this world, he took me for his
+wife, and calling me "Mary, Mary," many times, asked me how it was he
+had got home so quickly, and why he did not see the children; and said
+he felt sure he should soon get better now. Poor fellow! I could not
+undeceive him. I think the fancy happily caused by the touch of a
+woman's hand soothed his dying hour; for I do not fancy he could have
+lived to reach Scutari. I never knew it for certain, but I always felt
+sure that he would never wake from that dream of home in this world.
+
+And here, lest the reader should consider that I am speaking too
+highly of my own actions, I must have recourse to a plan which I shall
+frequently adopt in the following pages, and let another voice speak
+for me in the kind letter received long after Balaclava had been left
+to its old masters, by one who had not forgotten his old companion on
+the sick-wharf. The writer, Major (then Captain) R----, had charge of
+the wharf while I was there.
+
+    "Glasgow, Sept. 1856.
+
+    "Dear Mrs. Seacole,--I am very sorry to hear that you
+    have been unfortunate in business; but I am glad to hear
+    that you have found friends in Lord R---- and others,
+    who are ready to help you. No one knows better than I do
+    how much you did to help poor sick and wounded soldiers;
+    and I feel sure you will find in your day of trouble
+    that they have not forgotten it."
+
+Major R---- was a brave and experienced officer, but the scenes on the
+sick-wharf unmanned him often. I have known him nervously restless if
+the people were behindhand, even for a few minutes, in their
+preparations for the wounded. But in this feeling all shared alike.
+Only women could have done more than they did who attended to this
+melancholy duty; and they, not because their hearts could be softer,
+but because their hands are moulded for this work.
+
+But it must not be supposed that we had no cheerful scenes upon the
+sick-wharf. Sometimes a light-hearted fellow--generally a
+sailor--would forget his pain, and do his best to keep the rest in
+good spirits. Once I heard my name eagerly pronounced, and turning
+round, recognised a sailor whom I remembered as one of the crew of the
+"Alarm," stationed at Kingston, a few years back.
+
+"Why, as I live, if this ain't Aunty Seacole, of Jamaica! Shiver all
+that's left of my poor timbers"--and I saw that the left leg was
+gone--"if this ain't a rum go, mates!"
+
+"Ah! my man, I'm sorry to see you in this sad plight."
+
+"Never fear for me, Aunty Seacole; I'll make the best of the leg the
+Rooshians have left me. I'll get at them soon again, never fear. You
+don't think, messmates"--he never left his wounded comrades
+alone--"that they'll think less of us at home for coming back with a
+limb or so short?"
+
+"You bear your troubles well, my son."
+
+"Eh! do I, Aunty?" and he seemed surprised. "Why, look'ye, when I've
+seen so many pretty fellows knocked off the ship's roll altogether,
+don't you think I ought to be thankful if I can answer the bo'swain's
+call anyhow?"
+
+And this was the sailors' philosophy always. And this brave fellow,
+after he had sipped some lemonade, and laid down, when he heard the
+men groaning, raised his head and comforted them in the same strain
+again; and, it may seem strange, but it quieted them.
+
+I used to make sponge-cakes on board the "Medora," with eggs brought
+from Constantinople. Only the other day, Captain S----, who had charge
+of the "Medora," reminded me of them. These, with some lemonade, were
+all the doctors would allow me to give to the wounded. They all liked
+the cake, poor fellows, better than anything else: perhaps because it
+tasted of "home."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    ALARMS IN THE HARBOUR--GETTING THE STORES ON
+    SHORE--ROBBERY BY NIGHT AND DAY--THE PREDATORY TRIBES OF
+    BALACLAVA--ACTIVITY OF THE AUTHORITIES--WE OBTAIN LEAVE
+    TO ERECT OUR STORE, AND FIX UPON SPRING HILL AS ITS
+    SITE--THE TURKISH PACHA--THE FLOOD--OUR CARPENTERS--I
+    BECOME AN ENGLISH SCHOOLMISTRESS ABROAD.
+
+
+My life in Balaclava could not but be a rough one. The exposure by day
+was enough to try any woman's strength; and at night one was not
+always certain of repose. Nor was it the easiest thing to clamber up
+the steep sides of the "Medora;" and more than once I narrowly escaped
+a sousing in the harbour. Why it should be so difficult to climb a
+ship's side, when a few more staves in the ladder, and those a little
+broader, would make it so easy, I have never been able to guess. And
+once on board the "Medora," my berth would not altogether have suited
+a delicate female with weak nerves. It was an ammunition ship, and we
+slept over barrels of gunpowder and tons of cartridges, with the by no
+means impossible contingency of their prematurely igniting, and giving
+us no time to say our prayers before launching us into eternity. Great
+care was enjoined, and at eight o'clock every evening Captain S----
+would come down, and order all lights out for the night. But I used to
+put my lantern into a deep basin, behind some boxes, and so evaded the
+regulation. I felt rather ashamed of this breach of discipline one
+night, when another ammunition ship caught fire in the crowded
+harbour, and threatened us all with speedy destruction. We all knew,
+if they failed in extinguishing the fire pretty quickly, what our
+chances of life were worth, and I think the bravest drew his breath
+heavily at the thought of our danger. Fortunately, they succeeded in
+extinguishing the firebrand before any mischief was done; but I do not
+think the crew of the "Medora" slept very comfortably that night. It
+was said that the Russians had employed an incendiary; but it would
+have been strange if in that densely crowded harbour some accidents
+had not happened without their agency.
+
+Harassing work, indeed, was the getting our stores on shore, with the
+aid of the Greek and Maltese boatmen, whose profession is thievery.
+Not only did they demand exorbitant sums for the carriage, but they
+contrived to rob us by the way in the most ingenious manner. Thus many
+things of value were lost in the little journey from the "Albatross"
+and "Nonpareil" to the shore, which had made the long voyage from
+England safely. Keep as sharp a look out as I might, some package or
+box would be tipped overboard by the sudden swaying of the boat, or
+passing by of one of the boatmen--of course, accidentally--and no
+words could induce the rascals, in their feigned ignorance of my
+language, to stop; and, looking back at the helpless waif, it was not
+altogether consolatory to see another boat dart from between some
+shipping, where it had been waiting, as accidentally, ready to pounce
+upon any such wind or waterfalls.
+
+Still more harassing work was it to keep the things together on the
+shore: often in the open light of day, while I sat there (after my
+duties on the sick-wharf were over) selling stores, or administering
+medicine to the men of the Land Transport and Army Works Corps, and
+others, who soon found out my skill, valuable things would be
+abstracted; while there was no limit to the depredations by night. Of
+course we hired men to watch; but our choice of servants was very
+limited, and very often those we employed not only shut their eyes to
+the plunder of their companions, but helped themselves freely. The
+adage, "set a thief to catch a thief," answered very badly in
+Balaclava.
+
+Sometimes Jew Johnny would volunteer to watch for the night; and glad
+I was when I knew that the honest lynx-eyed fellow was there. One
+night he caught a great-limbed Turk making off with a firkin of butter
+and some other things. The fellow broke away from Johnny's grasp with
+the butter, but the lad marked him down to his wretched den, behind
+the engineers' quarters, and, on the following morning, quietly
+introduced me to the lazy culprit, who was making up for the partial
+loss of his night's rest among as evil-looking a set of comrades as I
+have ever seen. There was a great row, and much indignation shown at
+the purpose of my visit; but I considered myself justified in calling
+in the aid of one of the Provost marshal's officers, and, in the
+presence of this most invaluable official, a confession was soon made.
+Beneath the fellow's dirty bed, the butter was found buried; and, in
+its company, a two-dozen case of sherry, which the rogue had, in
+flagrant defiance of the Prophet's injunction, stolen for his own
+private drinking, a few nights previously.
+
+The thievery in this little out-of-the way port was something
+marvellous; and the skill and ingenuity of the operators would have
+reflected credit upon the _elite_ of their profession practising in
+the most civilized city of Europe. Nor was the thievery confined
+altogether to the professionals, who had crowded to this scene of
+action from the cities and islands of the Mediterranean. They robbed
+us, the Turks, and one another; but a stronger hand was sometimes laid
+on them. The Turk, however, was sure to be the victim, let who might
+be the oppressor.
+
+In this predatory warfare, as in more honourable service, the Zouaves
+particularly distinguished themselves. These undoubtedly gallant
+little fellows, always restless for action, of some sort, would, when
+the luxury of a brash with the Russians was occasionally denied them,
+come down to Balaclava, in search of opportunities of waging war
+against society at large. Their complete and utter absence of
+conscientious scruples as to the rights of property was most amusing.
+To see a Zouave gravely cheat a Turk, or trip up a Greek
+street-merchant, or Maltese fruit-seller, and scud away with the
+spoil, cleverly stowed in his roomy red pantaloons, was an operation,
+for its coolness, expedition, and perfectness, well worth seeing. And,
+to a great extent, they escaped scatheless, for the English Provost
+marshal's department was rather chary of interfering with the
+eccentricities of our gallant allies; while if the French had taken
+close cognizance of the Zouaves' amusements out of school, one-half of
+the regiments would have been always engaged punishing the other half.
+
+The poor Turk! it is lamentable to think how he was robbed, abused,
+and bullied by his friends. Why didn't he show a little pluck? There
+wasn't a rough sailor, or shrewd boy--the English boy, in all his
+impudence and prejudice, flourished in Balaclava--who would not gladly
+have patted him upon the back if he would but have held up his head,
+and shown ever so little spirit. But the Englishman cannot understand
+a coward--will scarcely take the trouble to pity him; and even the
+craven Greek could lord it over the degenerate descendants of the
+fierce Arabs, who--so they told me on the spot--had wrested
+Constantinople from the Christians, in those old times of which I know
+so little. Very often an injured Turk would run up to where I sat, and
+stand there, wildly telegraphing his complaints against some
+villainous-looking Greek, or Italian, whom a stout English lad would
+have shaken out of his dirty skin in five minutes.
+
+Once, however, I saw the tables turned. As the anecdote will help to
+illustrate the relative positions of the predatory tribes of
+Balaclava, I will narrate it. Hearing one morning a louder hubbub than
+was usual upon the completion of a bargain, and the inevitable
+quarrelling that always followed, I went up to where I saw an excited
+crowd collected around a Turk, in whose hands a Greek was struggling
+vainly. This Greek had, it seemed, robbed his enemy, but the Turk was
+master this time, and had, in order to force from the robber a
+confession of the place where the stolen things were deposited (like
+dogs, as they were, these fellows were fond of burying their plunder),
+resorted to torture. This was effected most ingeniously and simply by
+means of some packthread, which, bound round the Greek's two thumbs,
+was tightened on the tourniquet principle, until the pain elicited a
+confession. But the Turk, stimulated to retaliation by his triumph,
+bagged the Greek's basket, which contained amongst other things two
+watches, which their present owner had no doubt stolen. Driven to the
+most ludicrous show of despair, the Greek was about to attempt another
+desperate struggle for the recovery of his goods, when two Zouaves
+elbowed their small persons upon the crowded stage, and were eagerly
+referred to by all the parties concerned in the squabble. How they
+contrived it, I cannot say, so prompt were their movements; but, in a
+very few minutes, the watches were in their possession, and going much
+faster than was agreeable either to Turk or Greek, who both combined
+to arrest this new movement, and thereby added a sharp thrashing to
+their other injuries. The Zouaves effected their escape safely, while
+the Greek, with a despair that had in it an equal share of the
+ludicrous and the tragic, threw himself upon the dusty ground, and
+tore his thin hair out by handfuls. I believe that the poor wretch,
+whom we could not help pitying, journeyed to Kamiesch, to discover his
+oppressors; but I fear he didn't gain much information there.
+
+Had it not been for the unremitting activity of the authorities, no
+life would have been safe in Balaclava, with its population of
+villains of every nation. As it was, murder was sometimes added to
+robbery, and many of the rascals themselves died suspicious deaths,
+with the particulars of which the authorities did not trouble
+themselves. But the officials worked hard, both in the harbour and on
+shore, to keep order; few men could have worked harder. I often saw
+the old grey-haired Admiral about before the sun had fairly shown
+itself; and those of his subordinates must have been somewhat heavy
+sleepers who could play the sluggard then.
+
+At length the necessary preparations to establish our store were made.
+We hit upon a spot about two miles from Balaclava, in advance of
+Kadikoi, close to where the railway engines were stationed, and within
+a mile of head-quarters. Leave having been obtained to erect buildings
+here, we set to work briskly, and soon altered the appearance of
+Spring Hill--so we christened our new home. Sometimes on horseback,
+sometimes getting a lift on the commissariat carts, and occasionally
+on the ammunition railway-waggons, I managed to visit Spring Hill
+daily, and very soon fitted up a shed sufficiently large to take up my
+abode in. But the difficulty of building our store was immense. To
+obtain material was next to impossible; but that collected (not a
+little was, by leave of the Admiral, gleaned from the floating rubbish
+in the harbour), to find workmen to make use of it was still more
+difficult. I spent days going round the shipping, offering great
+wages, even, for an invalid able to handle saw and hammer, however
+roughly, and many a long ride through the camps did I take on the same
+errand. At length, by dint of hard canvassing, we obtained the aid of
+two English sailors, whom I nicknamed "Big and Little Chips," and some
+Turks, and set to work in good earnest.
+
+I procured the Turks from the Pacha who commanded the division
+encamped in the neighbourhood of Spring Hill. It was decided that we
+should apply to him for help, and accordingly I became ambassadress on
+this delicate mission, and rode over to the Pacha's quarters, Jew
+Johnny attending me as interpreter. I was received by the Pacha with
+considerable kindness and no trifling amount of formality, and after
+taking coffee I proceeded, through Jew Johnny, to explain the object
+of my visit, while his Excellency, a tall man, with a dark pleasing
+face, smoked gravely, and took my request into his gracious
+consideration.
+
+On the following day came the answer to my request, in the persons of
+two curious Turkish carpenters, who were placed at our orders. After a
+little while, too, a Turkish officer, whom I christened Captain Ali
+Baba, took so great an interest in our labours that he would work like
+any carpenter, and with a delight and zeal that were astonishing. To
+see him fall back, and look smilingly at every piece of his
+workmanship, was a sight to restore the most severely tried temper. I
+really think that the good-hearted fellow thought it splendid fun, and
+never wearied of it. But for him I do not know how we should have
+managed with our other Turkish "chips"--chips of the true old Turkish
+block they were--deliberate, slow, and indolent, breaking off into
+endless interruptions for the sacred duties of eating and praying, and
+getting into out-of-the-way corners at all times of the day to smoke
+themselves to sleep.
+
+In the midst of our work a calamity occurred, which was very nearly
+becoming a catastrophe. By the giving way of a dam, after some heavy
+rains, the little stream which threaded its silvery way past Spring
+Hill swelled without any warning into a torrent, which, sweeping
+through my temporary hut, very nearly carried us all away, and
+destroyed stores of between one and two hundred pounds in value. This
+calamity might have had a tragical issue for me, for seeing a little
+box which contained some things, valuable as relics of the past, being
+carried away, I plunged in after it, and losing my balance, was rolled
+over and over by the stream, and with some difficulty reached the
+shore. Some of Lord Raglan's staff passing our wreck on the following
+day, made inquiries respecting the loss we had sustained, and a
+messenger was sent from head-quarters, who made many purchases, in
+token of their sympathy.
+
+My visit to the Turkish Pacha laid the foundation of a lasting
+friendship. He soon found his way to Spring Hill, and before long
+became one of my best customers and most frequent visitors. It was
+astonishing to note how completely, now that he was in the land of the
+Giaours, he adapted himself to the tastes and habits of the infidels.
+Like a Scotch Presbyterian, on the Continent for a holiday, he threw
+aside all the prejudices of his education, and drank bottled beer,
+sherry, and champagne with an appreciation of their qualities that no
+thirsty-souled Christian could have expressed more gratefully. He was
+very affable with us all, and would sometimes keep Jew Johnny away
+from his work for hours, chatting with us or the English officers who
+would lounge into our as yet unfinished store. Sometimes he would come
+down to breakfast, and spend the greater part of the day at Spring
+Hill. Indeed, the wits of Spring Hill used to laugh, and say that the
+crafty Pacha was throwing his pocket-handkerchief at Madame Seacole,
+widow; but as the honest fellow candidly confessed he had three wives
+already at home, I acquit him of any desire to add to their number.
+
+The Pacha's great ambition was to be familiar with the English
+language, and at last nothing would do but he must take lessons of me.
+So he would come down, and sitting in my store, with a Turk or so at
+his feet, to attend to his most important pipe, by inserting little
+red-hot pieces of charcoal at intervals, would try hard to sow a few
+English sentences in his treacherous memory. He never got beyond half
+a dozen; and I think if we had continued in the relation of pupil and
+mistress until now, the number would not have been increased greatly.
+"Madame Seacole," "Gentlemen, good morning," and "More champagne,"
+with each syllable much dwelt upon, were his favourite sentences. It
+was capital fun to hear him, when I was called away suddenly to attend
+to a customer, or to give a sick man medicine, repeating gravely the
+sentence we had been studying, until I passed him, and started him
+with another.
+
+Very frequently he would compliment me by ordering his band down to
+Spring Hill for my amusement. They played excellently well, and I used
+to think that I preferred their music to that of the French and
+English regimental bands. I laughed heartily one day, when, in
+compliance with the kind-hearted Anglo-Turkish Pacha's orders, they
+came out with a grand new tune, in which I with difficulty recognised
+a very distant resemblance to "God save the Queen."
+
+Altogether he was a capital neighbour, and gave such strict orders to
+his men to respect our property that we rarely lost anything. On the
+whole, the Turks were the most honest of the nations there (I except
+the English and the Sardinians), and the most tractable. But the
+Greeks hated them, and showed their hate in every way. In bringing up
+things for the Pacha's use they would let the mules down, and smash
+their loads most relentlessly. Now and then they suffered, as was the
+case one day when I passed through the camp and saw my friend
+superintending the correction of a Greek who was being bastinadoed. It
+seemed a painful punishment.
+
+I was sorry, therefore, when my friend's division was ordered to
+Kamara, and we lost our neighbours. But my pupil did not forget his
+schoolmistress. A few days after they had left the neighbourhood of
+Spring Hill came a messenger, with a present of lambs, poultry, and
+eggs, and a letter, which I could not decipher, as many of the
+interpreters could speak English far better than they could write it.
+But we discovered that the letter contained an invitation, to Mr. Day
+and myself, to go over to Kamara, and select from the spoil of the
+village anything that might be useful in our new buildings. And a few
+days later came over a large araba, drawn by four mules, and laden
+with a pair of glass-doors, and some window-frames, which the
+thoughtful kind Pacha had judged--and judged rightly--would be a very
+acceptable present. And very often the good-natured fellow would ride
+over from Kamara, and resume his acquaintance with myself and my
+champagne, and practise his English sentences.
+
+We felt the loss of our Turkish neighbours in more ways than one. The
+neighbourhood, after their departure, was left lonely and unprotected,
+and it was not until a division of the Land Transport Corps came and
+took up their quarters near us, that I felt at all secure of personal
+safety. Mr. Day rarely returned to Spring Hill until nightfall
+relieved him from his many duties, and I depended chiefly upon two
+sailors, both of questionable character, two black servants, Jew
+Johnny, and my own reputation for determination and courage--a poor
+delusion, which I took care to heighten by the judicious display of a
+double-barrelled pistol, lent me for the purpose by Mr. Day, and which
+I couldn't have loaded to save my life.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    THE BRITISH HOTEL--DOMESTIC DIFFICULTIES--OUR
+    ENEMIES--THE RUSSIAN RATS--ADVENTURES IN SEARCH OF A
+    CAT--LIGHT-FINGERED ZOUAVES--CRIMEAN THIEVES--POWDERING
+    A HORSE.
+
+
+Summer was fairly advanced before the British Hotel was anything like
+finished; indeed, it never was completed, and when we left the Hill, a
+year later, it still wanted shutters. But long before that time Spring
+Hill had gained a great reputation. Of course, I have nothing to do
+with what occurred in the camp, although I could not help hearing a
+great deal about it. Mismanagement and privation there might have
+been, but my business was to make things right in my sphere, and
+whatever confusion, and disorder existed elsewhere, comfort and order
+were always to be found at Spring Hill. When there was no sun
+elsewhere, some few gleams--so its grateful visitors said--always
+seemed to have stayed behind, to cheer the weary soldiers that
+gathered in the British Hotel. And, perhaps, as my kind friend _Punch_
+said, after all these things had become pleasant memories of the past.
+
+    "The cold without gave a zest, no doubt,
+    To the welcome warmth within;
+    But her smile, good old soul, lent heat to the coal,
+    And power to the pannikin."
+
+Let me, in a few words, describe the British Hotel. It was
+acknowledged by all to be the most complete thing there. It cost no
+less than L800. The buildings and yards took up at least an acre of
+ground, and were as perfect as we could make them. The hotel and
+storehouse consisted of a long iron room, with counters, closets, and
+shelves; above it was another low room, used by us for storing our
+goods, and above this floated a large union-jack. Attached to this
+building was a little kitchen, not unlike a ship's caboose--all stoves
+and shelves. In addition to the iron house were two wooden houses,
+with sleeping apartments for myself and Mr. Day, out-houses for our
+servants, a canteen for the soldiery, and a large enclosed yard for
+our stock, full of stables, low huts, and sties. Everything, although
+rough and unpolished, was comfortable and warm; and there was a
+completeness about the whole which won general admiration. The reader
+may judge of the manner in which we had stocked the interior of our
+store from the remark, often repeated by the officers, that you might
+get everything at Mother Seacole's, from an anchor down to a needle.
+
+In addition, we had for our transport service four carts, and as many
+horses and mules as could be kept from the thieves. To reckon upon
+being in possession of these, at any future time, was impossible; we
+have more than once seen a fair stud stabled at night-time, and on the
+following morning been compelled to borrow cattle from the Land
+Transport camp, to fetch our things up from Balaclava.
+
+But it must not be supposed that my domestic difficulties came to an
+end with the completion of the hotel. True, I was in a better position
+to bear the Crimean cold and rain, but my other foes were as busy as
+ever they had been on the beach at Balaclava. Thieves, biped and
+quadruped, human and animal, troubled me more than ever; and perhaps
+the most difficult to deal with were the least dangerous. The Crimean
+rats, for instance, who had the appetites of London aldermen, and were
+as little dainty as hungry schoolboys. Whether they had left
+Sebastopol, guided by the instinct which leads their kindred in other
+parts of the world to forsake sinking ships, or because the garrison
+rations offended their palates, or whether they had patriotically
+emigrated, to make war against the English larders, I do not pretend
+to guess; but, whatever was their motive, it drew them in great
+abundance to Spring Hill. They occasionally did us damage, in a single
+night, to the tune of two or three pounds--wasting what they could not
+devour. You could keep nothing sacred from their strong teeth. When
+hard pressed they more than once attacked the live sheep; and at last
+they went so far as to nibble one of our black cooks, Francis, who
+slept among the flour barrels. On the following morning he came to me,
+his eyes rolling angrily, and his white teeth gleaming, to show me a
+mangled finger, which they had bitten, and ask me to dress it. He made
+a great fuss; and a few mornings later he came in a violent passion
+this time, and gave me instant notice to quit my service, although we
+were paying him two pounds a week, with board and rations. This time
+the rats had, it appeared, been bolder, and attacked his head, in a
+spot where its natural armour, the wool, was thinnest, and the silly
+fellow had a notion that the souls of the slain Russian soldiers had
+entered the bodies of the rats, and made vengeful war upon their late
+enemies. Driven to such an extremity, I made up my mind to scour the
+camp, in search of a cat, and, after a long day's hunt, I came to the
+conclusion that the tale of Whittington was by no means an improbable
+one. Indeed, had a brisk young fellow with a cat, of even ordinary
+skill in its profession, made their appearance at Spring Hill, I would
+gladly have put them in the way--of laying the foundation, at
+least--of a fortune. At last I found a benefactor, in the Guards'
+camp, in Colonel D----, of the Coldstreams, who kindly promised me a
+great pet, well known in the camp, and perhaps by some who may read
+these pages, by the name of Pinkie. Pinkie was then helping a brother
+officer to clear his hut, but on the following day a Guardsman brought
+the noble fellow down. He lived in clover for a few days, but he had
+an English cat-like attachment for his old house, and despite the
+abundance of game, Pinkie soon stole away to his old master's
+quarters, three miles off. More than once the men brought him back to
+me, but the attractions of Spring Hill were never strong enough to
+detain him long with me.
+
+From the human thieves that surrounded Spring Hill I had to stand as
+sharp a siege as the Russians had in that poor city against which we
+heard the guns thundering daily; while the most cunning and desperate
+sorties were often made upon the most exposed parts of my defences,
+and sometimes with success. Scores of the keenest eyes and hundreds of
+the sharpest fingers in the world were always ready to take advantage
+of the least oversight. I had to keep two boys, whose chief occupation
+was to watch the officers' horses, tied up to the doorposts of the
+British Hotel. Before I adopted this safeguard, more than one officer
+would leave his horse for a few minutes, and on his return find it
+gone to the neighbourhood of the Naval Brigade, or the horse-fair at
+Kamiesch. My old friends, the Zouaves, soon found me out at Spring
+Hill, and the wiry, light-fingered, fighting-loving gentry spent much
+of their leisure there. Those confounded trowsers of theirs offered
+conveniences of stowage-room which they made rare use of. Nothing was
+too small, and few things too unwieldy, to ride in them; like the
+pockets of clown in a pantomime, they could accommodate a well-grown
+baby or a pound of sausages equally well. I have a firm conviction
+that they stuffed turkeys, geese, and fowls into them, and I
+positively know that my only respectable teapot travelled off in the
+same conveyance, while I detected one little fellow, who had tied them
+down tight at his ankles, stowing away some pounds of tea and coffee
+mixed. Some officers, who were present, cut the cords, and, holding up
+the little scamp by the neck, shook his trowsers empty amid shouts of
+laughter.
+
+Our live stock, from the horses and mules down to the geese and fowls,
+suffered terribly. Although we kept a sharp look-out by day, and paid
+a man five shillings a night as watchman, our losses were very great.
+During the time we were in the Crimea we lost over a score of horses,
+four mules, eighty goats, many sheep, pigs, and poultry, by thieving
+alone. We missed in a single night forty goats and seven sheep, and on
+Mr. Day's going to head-quarters with intelligence of the disaster,
+they told him that Lord Raglan had recently received forty sheep from
+Asia, all of which had disappeared in the same manner. The geese,
+turkeys, and fowls vanished by scores. We found out afterwards that
+the watchman paid to guard the sheep, used to kill a few occasionally.
+As he represented them to have died a natural death during the night,
+he got permission to bury them, instead of which he sold them. King
+Frost claimed his share of our stock too, and on one December night,
+of the winter of 1855, killed no less than forty sheep. It is all very
+well to smile at these things now, but at the time they were
+heartrending enough, and helped, if they did not cause, the ruin which
+eventually overtook the firm of Seacole and Day. The determination and
+zeal which besiegers and besieged showed with respect to a poor pig,
+which was quietly and unconsciously fattening in its sty, are worthy
+of record.
+
+Fresh pork, in the spring of 1855, was certainly one of those luxuries
+not easily obtainable in that part of the Crimea to which the British
+army was confined, and when it became known that Mother Seacole had
+purchased a promising young porker from one of the ships in Balaclava,
+and that, brave woman! she had formed the courageous resolution of
+fattening it for her favourites, the excitement among the frequenters
+of Spring Hill was very great. I could laugh heartily now, when I
+think of the amount of persuasion and courting I stood out for before
+I bound myself how its four legs were to be disposed of. I learnt more
+at that time of the trials and privileges of authority than I am ever
+likely to experience again. Upon my word, I think if the poor thing
+had possessed as many legs as my editor tells me somebody called the
+Hydra (with whom my readers are perhaps more familiar than I am) had
+heads, I should have found candidates for them. As it was, the contest
+for those I had to bestow was very keen, and the lucky individuals who
+were favoured by me looked after their interests most carefully. One
+of them, to render mistake or misunderstanding impossible, entered my
+promise in my day-book. The reader will perhaps smile at the following
+important memorandum in the gallant officer's writing:--
+
+   "Memorandum that Mrs. Seacole did this day, in the
+   presence of Major A---- and Lieutenant W----, promise
+   Captain H----, R.A., a leg of _the_ pig."
+
+Now it was well known that many greedy eyes and fingers were directed
+towards the plump fellow, and considerable interest was manifested in
+the result of the struggle, "Mrs. Seacole _versus_ Thievery." I think
+they had some confidence in me, and that I was the favourite; but
+there was a large field against me, which found its backers also; and
+many a bet was laughingly laid on the ultimate fate of the unconscious
+porker.
+
+I baffled many a knavish trick to gain possession of the fine fellow;
+but, after all, I lost him in the middle of the day, when I thought
+the boldest rogues would not have run the risk. The shouts and
+laughter of some officers who were riding down from the front first
+informed me of my loss. Up they rode, calling out--"Mother Seacole!
+old lady! quick!--_the_ pig's gone!"
+
+I rushed out, injured woman that I was, and saw it all at a glance.
+But that my straw wide-awake was in the way, I could have torn my hair
+in my vexation. I rushed to the sty, found the nest warm, and with
+prompt decision prepared for speedy pursuit. Back I came to the
+horsemen, calling out--"Off with you, my sons!--they can't have got
+very far away yet. Do your best to save my bacon!"
+
+Delighted with the fun, the horsemen dispersed, laughing and
+shouting--"Stole away! hark away!" while I ran indoors, turned out all
+my available body-guard, and started in pursuit also. Not half a mile
+off we soon saw a horseman wave his cap; and starting off into a run,
+came to a little hollow, where the poor panting animal and two Greek
+thieves had been run down. The Provost-marshal took the latter in hand
+willingly, and Piggy was brought home in triumph. But those who had
+pork expectancies, hearing of the adventure, grew so seriously alarmed
+at the narrow escape, that they petitioned me to run so desperate a
+hazard no longer; and the poor thing was killed on the following day,
+and distributed according to promise. A certain portion was reserved
+for sausages, which, fried with mashed potatoes, were quite the rage
+at the British Hotel for some days. Some pork was also sent to
+head-quarters, with an account of the dangers we ran from thieves. It
+drew the following kind acknowledgment from General B----:
+
+    "Head-Quarters.
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--I am very much obliged to you
+    indeed for your pork. I have spoken to Colonel P---- as
+    to the police of your neighbourhood, and he will see
+    what arrangement can be made for the general protection
+    of that line of road. When the high-road is finished,
+    you will be better off. Let me know at the time of any
+    depredations that are committed, and we will try and
+    protect you.--I am, faithfully yours,
+
+        "M. L. B----."
+
+For the truth was--although I can laugh at my fears now--I was often
+most horribly frightened at Spring Hill; and there was cause for it
+too. My washerwoman, who, with her family, lived not half a mile from
+us, was with me one day, and carried off some things for the wash. On
+the following morning I was horrified to learn that she, her father,
+husband, and children--in all, seven--had been most foully murdered
+during the night: only one of the whole family recovered from her
+wounds, and lived to tell the tale. It created a great sensation at
+the time, and caused me to pass many a sleepless night, for the
+murderers were never discovered.
+
+Whilst I am upon the subject of Crimean thievery, I may as well
+exhaust it without paying any regard to the chronological order of my
+reminiscences. I have before mentioned what I suffered from the
+French. One day I caught one of our allies in my kitchen, robbing me
+in the most ungrateful manner. He had met with an accident near Spring
+Hill (I believe he belonged to a French regiment lent to assist the
+English in road-making), and had been doctored by me; and now I found
+him filling his pockets, before taking "French" leave of us. My black
+man, Francis, pulled from his pockets a yet warm fowl, and other
+provisions. We kicked him off the premises, and he found refuge with
+some men of the Army Works Corps, who pitied him and gave him shelter.
+He woke them in the middle of the night, laying hands rather clumsily
+on everything that was removeable; and in the morning they brought him
+to me, to ask what they should do with him. Unluckily for him, a
+French officer of rank happened to be in the store, who, on hearing
+our tale, packed him off to his regiment. I gathered from the
+expression of the officer's face, and the dread legible upon the
+culprit's, that it might be some considerable time before his itch for
+breaking the eighth commandment could be again indulged in.
+
+The trouble I underwent respecting a useful black mare, for which Mr.
+Day had given thirty guineas, and which carried me beautifully, was
+immense. Before it had been many weeks in our store it was
+gone--whither, I failed to discover. Keeping my eyes wide open,
+however, I saw "Angelina"--so I christened her--coming quietly down
+the hill, carrying an elderly naval officer. I was ready to receive
+the unconscious couple, and soon made my claim good. Of course, the
+officer was not to blame. He had bought it of a sailor, who in his
+turn had purchased the animal of a messmate, who of course had
+obtained it from another, and so on; but eventually it returned to its
+old quarters, where it only remained about a fortnight. I grew tired
+of looking for Angelina, and had given her up, when one day she turned
+up, in capital condition, in the possession of a French officer of
+Chasseurs. But nothing I could say to the Frenchman would induce him
+to take the view of the matter I wished, but had no right to enforce.
+He had bought the horse at Kamiesch, and intended to keep it. We grew
+hot at last; and our dispute drew out so large an audience that the
+Frenchman took alarm, and tried to make off. I held on to Angelina
+for a little while; but at last the mare broke away from me, as Tam o'
+Shanter's Maggie did from the witches (I don't mean that she left me
+even her tail), and vanished in a cloud of dust. It was the last I
+ever saw of Angelina.
+
+More than once the Crimean thievery reduced us to woeful straits. To a
+Greek, returning to Constantinople, we entrusted (after the murder of
+our washerwoman) two trunks, containing "things for the wash," which
+he was to bring back as soon as possible. But neither upon Greek,
+trunks, nor their contents did we ever set eyes again. It was a
+serious loss. The best part of our table-cloths and other domestic
+linen, all my clothes, except two suits, and all of Mr. Day's linen
+vanished, and had to be replaced as best we could by fresh purchases
+from Kamiesch and Kadikoi.
+
+Perhaps the most ridiculous shift I was ever put to by the Crimean
+thieves happened when we rose one morning and found the greater part
+of our stud missing. I had, in the course of the day, urgent occasion
+to ride over to the French camp on the Tchernaya; the only animal
+available for my transport was an old grey mare, who had contracted
+some equine disease of which I do not know the name, but which gave
+her considerable resemblance to a dog suffering from the mange. Now,
+go to the French camp I must; to borrow a horse was impossible, and
+something must be done with the grey. Suddenly one of those happy
+thoughts, which sometimes help us over our greatest difficulties,
+entered into my scheming brains. Could I not conceal the poor mare's
+worst blemishes. Her colour was grey; would not a thick coating of
+flour from my dredger make all right? There was no time to be lost;
+the remedy was administered successfully, and off I started; but,
+alas! the wind was high and swept the skirts of my riding habit so
+determinedly against the side of the poor beast, that before long its
+false coat was transferred to the dark cloth, and my innocent _ruse_
+exposed. The French are proverbially and really a polite and
+considerate nation, but I never heard more hearty peals of laughter
+from any sides than those which conveyed to me the horrible assurance
+that my scheme had unhappily failed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    MY WORK IN THE CRIMEA.
+
+
+I hope the reader will give me credit for the assertion that I am
+about to make, viz., that I enter upon the particulars of this chapter
+with great reluctance; but I cannot omit them, for the simple reason
+that they strengthen my one and only claim to interest the public,
+viz., my services to the brave British army in the Crimea. But,
+fortunately, I can follow a course which will not only render it
+unnecessary for me to sound my own trumpet, but will be more
+satisfactory to the reader. I can put on record the written opinions
+of those who had ample means of judging and ascertaining how I
+fulfilled the great object which I had in view in leaving England for
+the Crimea; and before I do so, I must solicit my readers' attention
+to the position I held in the camp as doctress, nurse, and "mother."
+
+I have never been long in any place before I have found my practical
+experience in the science of medicine useful. Even in London I have
+found it of service to others. And in the Crimea, where the doctors
+were so overworked, and sickness was so prevalent, I could not be long
+idle; for I never forgot that my intention in seeking the army was to
+help the kind-hearted doctors, to be useful to whom I have ever looked
+upon and still regard as so high a privilege.
+
+But before very long I found myself surrounded with patients of my
+own, and this for two simple reasons. In the first place, the men (I
+am speaking of the "ranks" now) had a very serious objection to going
+into hospital for any but urgent reasons, and the regimental doctors
+were rather fond of sending them there; and, in the second place, they
+could and did get at my store sick-comforts and nourishing food, which
+the heads of the medical staff would sometimes find it difficult to
+procure. These reasons, with the additional one that I was very
+familiar with the diseases which they suffered most from, and
+successful in their treatment (I say this in no spirit of vanity),
+were quite sufficient to account for the numbers who came daily to the
+British Hotel for medical treatment.
+
+That the officers were glad of me as a doctress and nurse may be
+easily understood. When a poor fellow lay sickening in his cheerless
+hut and sent down to me, he knew very well that I should not ride up
+in answer to his message empty-handed. And although I did not hesitate
+to charge him with the value of the necessaries I took him, still he
+was thankful enough to be able to _purchase_ them. When we lie ill at
+home surrounded with comfort, we never think of feeling any special
+gratitude for the sick-room delicacies which we accept as a
+consequence of our illness; but the poor officer lying ill and weary
+in his crazy hut, dependent for the merest necessaries of existence
+upon a clumsy, ignorant soldier-cook, who would almost prefer eating
+his meat raw to having the trouble of cooking it (our English soldiers
+are bad campaigners), often finds his greatest troubles in the want of
+those little delicacies with which a weak stomach must be humoured
+into retaining nourishment. How often have I felt sad at the sight of
+poor lads, who in England thought attending early parade a hardship,
+and felt harassed if their neckcloths set awry, or the natty little
+boots would not retain their polish, bearing, and bearing so nobly and
+bravely, trials and hardships to which the veteran campaigner
+frequently succumbed. Don't you think, reader, if you were lying, with
+parched lips and fading appetite, thousands of miles from mother,
+wife, or sister, loathing the rough food by your side, and thinking
+regretfully of that English home where nothing that could minister to
+your great need would be left untried--don't you think that you would
+welcome the familiar figure of the stout lady whose bony horse has
+just pulled up at the door of your hut, and whose panniers contain
+some cooling drink, a little broth, some homely cake, or a dish of
+jelly or blanc-mange--don't you think, under such circumstances, that
+you would heartily agree with my friend _Punch's_ remark:--
+
+    "That berry-brown face, with a kind heart's trace
+        Impressed on each wrinkle sly,
+    Was a sight to behold, through the snow-clouds rolled
+        Across that iron sky."
+
+I tell you, reader, I have seen many a bold fellow's eyes moisten at
+such a season, when a woman's voice and a woman's care have brought to
+their minds recollections of those happy English homes which some of
+them never saw again; but many did, who will remember their
+woman-comrade upon the bleak and barren heights before Sebastopol.
+
+Then their calling me "mother" was not, I think, altogether unmeaning.
+I used to fancy that there was something homely in the word; and,
+reader, you cannot think how dear to them was the smallest thing that
+reminded them of home.
+
+Some of my Crimean patients, who were glad of me as nurse and
+doctress, bore names familiar to all England, and perhaps, did I ask
+them, they would allow me to publish those names. I am proud to think
+that a gallant sailor, on whose brave breast the order of Victoria
+rests--a more gallant man can never wear it--sent for the doctress
+whom he had known in Kingston, when his arm, wounded on the fatal 18th
+of June, refused to heal, and I think that the application I
+recommended did it good; but I shall let some of my patients' letters,
+taken from a large bundle, speak for me. Of course I must suppress
+most of their names. Here are two from one of my best and kindest
+sons.
+
+    "My dear Mamma,--Will you kindly give the bearer the
+    bottle you promised me when you were here this morning,
+    for my jaundice. Please let me know how much I am to
+    take of it. Yours truly,
+
+        "F. M., _C. E._"
+
+You see the medicine does him good, for a few days later comes another
+from the same writer:--
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--I have finished the bottle,
+    which has done my jaundice a deal of good. Will you
+    kindly send another by bearer. Truly yours,
+
+        "F. M."
+
+It was a capital prescription which had done his jaundice good. There
+was so great a demand for it, that I kept it mixed in a large pan,
+ready to ladle it out to the scores of applicants who came for it.
+
+Sometimes they would send for other and no less important medicines.
+Here is such an application from a sick officer:--
+
+    "Mrs. Seacole would confer a favour on the writer, who
+    is very ill, by giving his servant (the bearer) a boiled
+    or roast fowl; if it be impossible to obtain them, some
+    chicken broth would be very acceptable.
+
+        "I am yours, truly obliged,
+
+            "J. K., 18th R. S."
+
+Doesn't that read like a sick man's letter, glad enough to welcome any
+woman's face? Here are some gentlemen of the Commissariat anxious to
+speak for me:--
+
+    "Arthur C----, Comm. Staff Officer, having been attacked
+    one evening with a very bad diarrhoea at Mrs.
+    Seacole's, took some of her good medicine. It cured me
+    before the next morning, and I have never been attacked
+    since.--October 17th, 1855."
+
+
+    "Archibald R. L----, Comm. Staff, Crimea, was suffering
+    from diarrhoea for a week or more; after taking Mrs.
+    Seacole's good medicines for two days, he became quite
+    well, and remained so to this day.--October 17th, 1855."
+
+Here is Mr. M----, paymaster of the Land Transport Corps, ready with a
+good account of my services:--
+
+    "I certify that Madame Seacole twice cured me
+    effectually of dysentery while in the Crimea, and also
+    my clerk and the men of my corps, to my certain
+    knowledge."
+
+And some of the men shall speak for themselves:--
+
+    "Stationary Engine, December 1, 1855.
+
+    "I certify that I was severely attacked by diarrhoea
+    after landing in the Crimea. I took a great deal of
+    medicine, but nothing served me until I called on Mrs.
+    Seacole. She gave me her medicine but once, and I was
+    cured effectually.
+
+        "Wm. Knollys, Sergt., L.T.C."
+
+
+    "This is to certify that Wm. Row, L.T.C, had a severe
+    attack of illness, and was in a short time restored to
+    health by the prompt attention and medical skill of Mrs.
+    Seacole, British Hotel, Spring Hill, Crimea."
+
+Many of my patients belonged to the Land Transport and Army Works
+Corps. The former indeed were in my close neighbourhood, and their
+hospital was nearly opposite to the British Hotel. I did all I could
+for them, and have many letters expressive of their gratitude. From
+them I select the following:--
+
+    "Head-Quarters, Camp, Crimea, June 30, 1856.
+
+    "I have much pleasure in bearing testimony to Mrs.
+    Seacole's kindness and attention to the sick of the
+    Railway Labourers' Army Works Corps and Land Transport
+    Corps during the winters of 1854 and 1855.
+
+    "She not only, from the knowledge she had acquired in
+    the West Indies, was enabled to administer appropriate
+    remedies for their ailments, but, what was of as much or
+    more importance, she charitably furnished them with
+    proper nourishment, which they had no means of obtaining
+    except in the hospital, and most of that class had an
+    objection to go into hospital, particularly the railway
+    labourers and the men of the Army Works Corps.
+
+        "John Hall,
+
+            "Inspector-General of Hospitals."
+
+I hope that Mr. P----, of the Army Works Corps, will pardon my laying
+the following letter before the public:--
+
+    "Dear Mrs. Seacole,--It is with feelings of great
+    pleasure that I hear you are safely arrived in England,
+    upon which I beg to congratulate you, and return you
+    many thanks for your kindness whilst in the Crimea.
+
+    "The bitter sherry you kindly made up for me was in
+    truth a great blessing to both myself and my son, and as
+    I expect to go to Bombay shortly, I would feel grateful
+    to you if you would favour me with the receipt for
+    making it, as it appears to be so very grateful a
+    beverage for weakness and bowel complaints in a warm
+    climate. With many kind regards, believe me, dear madam,
+    your obliged servant,
+
+        "Samuel P----,
+
+            "Late Superintendent Army Works Corps."
+
+Here is a certificate from one of the Army Works' men, to whose case I
+devoted no little time and trouble:--
+
+    "I certify that I was labouring under a severe attack of
+    diarrhoea last August, and that I was restored to
+    health through the instrumentality and kindness of Mrs.
+    Seacole.
+
+    "I also certify that my fingers were severely jammed
+    whilst at work at Frenchman's Hill, and Mrs. Seacole
+    cured me after three doctors had fruitlessly attempted
+    to cure them.
+
+    "And I cannot leave the Crimea without testifying to the
+    kindness and skill of Mrs. Seacole, and may God reward
+    her for it.
+
+        "James Wallen,
+
+            "5th Division Army Works Corps."
+
+Here are three more letters--and the last I shall print--from a
+sailor, a soldier, and a civilian:--
+
+    "This is to certify that Wm. Adams, caulker, of H.M.S.
+    'Wasp,' and belonging to the Royal Naval Brigade, had a
+    severe attack of cholera, and was cured in a few hours
+    by Mrs. Seacole."
+
+    "I certify that I was troubled by a severe inflammation
+    of the chest, caused by exposure in the trenches, for
+    about four months, and that Mrs. Seacole's medicine
+    completely cured me in one month, and may God reward
+    her.
+
+        "Charles Flinn, Sergt. 3rd Co. R.S.M."
+
+
+    "Upper Clapton, Middlesex, March 2, 1856.
+
+    "Dear Madam,--Having been informed by my son, Mr. Edward
+    Gill, of St. George's Store, Crimea, of his recent
+    illness (jaundice), and of your kind attention and
+    advice to him during that illness, and up to the time he
+    was, by the blessing of God and your assistance,
+    restored to health, permit me, on behalf of myself, my
+    wife, and my family, to return you our most grateful
+    thanks, trusting you may be spared for many years to
+    come, in health of body and vigour of mind, to carry out
+    your benevolent intention. Believe me, my dear madam,
+    yours most gratefully,
+
+        "Edward Gill."
+
+And now that I have made this a chapter of testimonials, I may as
+well finish them right off, and have done with them altogether. I
+shall trouble the patient reader with four more only, which I have not
+the heart to omit.
+
+    "Sebastopol, July 1, 1856.
+
+    "Mrs. Seacole was with the British army in the Crimea
+    from February, 1855, to this time. This excellent woman
+    has frequently exerted herself in the most praiseworthy
+    manner in attending wounded men, even in positions of
+    great danger, and in assisting sick soldiers by all
+    means in her power. In addition, she kept a very good
+    store, and supplied us with many comforts at a time we
+    much required them.
+
+        "Wm. P----,
+
+            "Adjutant-General of the British Army
+                in the Crimea."
+
+
+    "July 1, 1856.
+
+    "I have much pleasure in stating that I am acquainted
+    with Mrs. Seacole, and from all that I have seen or
+    heard of her, I believe her to be a useful and good
+    person, kind and charitable.
+
+        "C. A. W----,
+
+            "Lt.-Gen. Comm. of Sebastopol."
+
+The third is from the pen of one who at that time was more looked to,
+and better known, than any other man in the Crimea. In the 2nd vol. of
+Russell's "Letters from the Seat of War," p. 187, is the following
+entry:--
+
+    "In the hour of their illness these men (Army Works
+    Corps), in common with many others, have found a kind
+    and successful physician. Close to the railway,
+    half-way between the Col de Balaclava and Kadikoi, Mrs.
+    Seacole, formerly of Kingston and of several other parts
+    of the world, such as Panama and Chagres, has pitched
+    her abode--an iron storehouse with wooden sheds and
+    outlying tributaries--and here she doctors and cures all
+    manner of men with extraordinary success. She is always
+    in attendance near the battle-field to aid the wounded,
+    and has earned many a poor fellow's blessings."
+
+Yes! I cannot--referring to that time--conscientiously charge myself
+with doing less for the men who had only thanks to give me, than for
+the officers whose gratitude gave me the necessaries of life. I think
+I was ever ready to turn from the latter to help the former, humble as
+they might be; and they were grateful in their way, and as far as they
+could be. They would buy me apples and other fruit at Balaclava, and
+leave them at my store. One made me promise, when I returned home, to
+send word to his Irish mother, who was to send me a cow in token of
+her gratitude for the help I had been to her son. I have a book filled
+with hundreds of the names of those who came to me for medicines and
+other aids; and never a train of sick or wounded men from the front
+passed the British Hotel but its hostess was awaiting them to offer
+comforts to the poor fellows, for whose suffering her heart bled.
+
+_Punch_, who allowed my poor name to appear in the pages which had
+welcomed Miss Nightingale home--_Punch_, that whimsical mouthpiece of
+some of the noblest hearts that ever beat beneath black coats--shall
+last of all raise its voice, that never yet pleaded an unworthy cause,
+for the Mother Seacole that takes shame to herself for speaking thus
+of the poor part she bore of the trials and hardships endured on that
+distant shore, where Britain's best and bravest wrung hardly
+Sebastopol from the grasp of Britain's foe:--
+
+    "No store she set by the epaulette,
+      Be it worsted or gold lace;
+    For K. C. B. or plain private Smith,
+      She had still one pleasant face.
+
+    "And not alone was her kindness shown
+      To the hale and hungry lot
+    Who drank her grog and ate her prog,
+      And paid their honest shot.
+
+    "The sick and sorry can tell the story
+      Of her nursing and dosing deeds;
+    Regimental M.D. never worked as she,
+      In helping sick men's needs.
+
+    "Of such work, God knows, was as much as she chose
+      That dreary winter-tide,
+    When Death hung o'er the damp and pestilent camp,
+      And his scythe swung far and wide.
+
+    "She gave her aid to all who prayed,
+      To hungry and sick and cold;
+    Open hand and heart, alike ready to part
+      Kind words and acts, and gold.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "And--be the right man in the right place who can--
+      The right woman was Dame Seacole."
+
+Reader, now that we have come to the end of this chapter, I can say
+what I have been all anxiety to tell you from its beginning. Please
+look back to Chapter VIII., and see how hard the right woman had to
+struggle to convey herself to the right place.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    MY CUSTOMERS AT THE BRITISH HOTEL.
+
+
+I shall proceed in this chapter to make the reader acquainted with
+some of the customers of the British Hotel, who came there for its
+creature comforts as well as its hostess's medicines when need was;
+and if he or she should be inclined to doubt or should hesitate at
+accepting my experience of Crimean life as entirely credible, I beg
+that individual to refer to the accounts which were given in the
+newspapers of the spring of 1855, and I feel sure they will acquit me
+of any intention to exaggerate. If I were to speak of all the nameless
+horrors of that spring as plainly as I could, I should really disgust
+you; but those I shall bring before your notice have all something of
+the humorous in them--and so it ever is. Time is a great restorer, and
+changes surely the greatest sorrow into a pleasing memory. The sun
+shines this spring-time upon green grass that covers the graves of the
+poor fellows we left behind sadly a few short months ago: bright
+flowers grow up upon ruins of batteries and crumbling trenches, and
+cover the sod that presses on many a mouldering token of the old time
+of battle and death. I dare say that, if I went to the Crimea now, I
+should see a smiling landscape, instead of the blood-stained scene
+which I shall ever associate with distress and death; and as it is
+with nature so it is with human kind. Whenever I meet those who have
+survived that dreary spring of 1855, we seldom talk about its horrors;
+but remembering its transient gleams of sunshine, smile at the fun and
+good nature that varied its long and weary monotony. And now that I am
+anxious to remember all I can that will interest my readers, my memory
+prefers to dwell upon what was pleasing and amusing, although the time
+will never come when it will cease to retain most vividly the pathos
+and woe of those dreadful months.
+
+I have said that the winter had not ended when we began operations at
+the British Hotel; and very often, after we considered we were fairly
+under spring's influence, our old enemy would come back with an angry
+roar of wind and rain, levelling tents, unroofing huts, destroying
+roads, and handing over May to the command of General Fevrier. But the
+sun fought bravely for us, and in time always dispersed the leaden
+clouds and gilded the iron sky, and made us cheerful again. During the
+end of March, the whole of April, and a considerable portion of May,
+however, the army was but a little better off for the advent of
+spring. The military road to the camp was only in progress--the
+railway only carried ammunition. A few hours' rain rendered the old
+road all but impassable, and scarcity often existed in the front
+before Sebastopol, although the frightened and anxious Commissariat
+toiled hard to avert such a mishap; so that very often to the British
+Hotel came officers starved out on the heights above us. The dandies
+of Rotten Row would come down riding on sorry nags, ready to carry
+back--their servants were on duty in the trenches--anything that would
+be available for dinner. A single glance at their personal appearance
+would suffice to show the hardships of the life they were called upon
+to lead. Before I left London for the seat of war I had been more than
+once to the United Service Club, seeking to gain the interest of
+officers whom I had known in Jamaica; and I often thought afterwards
+of the difference between those I saw there trimly shaven, handsomely
+dressed, with spotless linen and dandy air, and these their
+companions, who in England would resemble them. Roughly, warmly
+dressed, with great fur caps, which met their beards and left nothing
+exposed but lips and nose, and not much of those; you would easily
+believe that soap and water were luxuries not readily obtainable, that
+shirts and socks were often comforts to dream about rather than
+possess, and that they were familiar with horrors you would shudder to
+hear named. Tell me, reader, can you fancy what the want of so simple
+a thing as a pocket-handkerchief is? To put a case--have you ever gone
+out for the day without one; sat in a draught and caught a sneezing
+cold in the head? You say the question is an unnecessarily unpleasant
+one, and yet what I am about to tell you is true, and the sufferer is,
+I believe, still alive.
+
+An officer had ridden down one day to obtain refreshments (this was very
+early in the spring); some nice fowls had just been taken from the spit,
+and I offered one to him. Paper was one of the most hardly obtainable
+luxuries of the Crimea, and I rarely had any to waste upon my customers;
+so I called out, "Give me your pocket-handkerchief, my son, that I may
+wrap it up." You see we could not be very particular out there; but he
+smiled very bitterly as he answered, "Pocket-handkerchief, mother--by
+Jove! I wish I had one. I tore my last shirt into shreds a fortnight
+ago, and there's not a bit of it left now."
+
+Shortly after, a hundred dozen of these useful articles came to my
+store, and I sold them all to officers and men very speedily.
+
+For some time, and until I found the task beyond my strength, I kept
+up a capital table at the British Hotel; but at last I gave up doing
+so professedly, and my hungry customers had to make shift with
+whatever was on the premises. Fortunately they were not over-dainty,
+and had few antipathies. My duties increased so rapidly, that
+sometimes it was with difficulty that I found time to eat and sleep.
+Could I have obtained good servants, my daily labours would have been
+lightened greatly; but my staff never consisted of more than a few
+boys, two black cooks, some Turks--one of whom, Osman, had enough to
+do to kill and pluck the poultry, while the others looked after the
+stock and killed our goats and sheep--and as many runaway sailors or
+good-for-noughts in search of employment as we could from time to time
+lay our hands upon; but they never found my larder entirely empty. I
+often used to roast a score or so of fowls daily, besides boiling hams
+and tongues. Either these or a slice from a joint of beef or mutton
+you would be pretty sure of finding at your service in the larder of
+the British Hotel.
+
+Would you like, gentle reader, to know what other things suggestive of
+home and its comforts your relatives and friends in the Crimea could
+obtain from the hostess of Spring Hill? I do not tell you that the
+following articles were all obtainable at the commencement, but many
+were. The time was indeed when, had you asked me for mock turtle and
+venison, you should have had them, preserved in tins, but that was
+when the Crimea was flooded with plenty--too late, alas! to save many
+whom want had killed; but had you been doing your best to batter
+Sebastopol about the ears of the Russians in the spring and summer of
+the year before last, the firm of Seacole and Day would have been
+happy to have served you with (I omit ordinary things) linen and
+hosiery, saddlery, caps, boots and shoes, for the outer man; and for
+the inner man, meat and soups of every variety in tins (you can
+scarcely conceive how disgusted we all became at last with preserved
+provisions); salmon, lobsters, and oysters, also in tins, which last
+beaten up into fritters, with onions, butter, eggs, pepper, and salt,
+were very good; game, wild fowl, vegetables, also preserved, eggs,
+sardines, curry powder, cigars, tobacco, snuff, cigarette papers, tea,
+coffee, tooth powder, and currant jelly. When cargoes came in from
+Constantinople, we bought great supplies of potatoes, carrots,
+turnips, and greens. Ah! what a rush there used to be for the greens.
+You might sometimes get hot rolls; but, generally speaking, I bought
+the Turkish bread (_ekmek_), baked at Balaclava.
+
+Or had you felt too ill to partake of your rough camp fare, coarsely
+cooked by a soldier cook, who, unlike the French, could turn his hand
+to few things but fighting, and had ridden down that muddy road to the
+Col, to see what Mother Seacole could give you for dinner, the chances
+were you would have found a good joint of mutton, not of the fattest,
+forsooth; for in such miserable condition were the poor beasts landed,
+that once, when there came an urgent order from head-quarters for
+twenty-five pounds of mutton, we had to cut up one sheep and a half
+to provide the quantity; or you would have stumbled upon something
+curried, or upon a good Irish stew, nice and hot, with plenty of
+onions and potatoes, or upon some capital meat-pies. I found the
+preserved meats were better relished cooked in this fashion, and well
+doctored with stimulants. Before long I grew as familiar with the
+mysteries of seasoning as any London pieman, and could accommodate
+myself to the requirements of the seasons as readily. Or had there
+been nothing better, you might have gone further and fared on worse
+fare than one of my Welch rabbits, for the manufacture of which I
+became so famous. And had you been fortunate enough to have visited
+the British Hotel upon rice-pudding day, I warrant you would have
+ridden back to your hut with kind thoughts of Mother Seacole's
+endeavours to give you a taste of home. If I had nothing else to be
+proud of, I think my rice puddings, made without milk, upon the high
+road to Sebastopol, would have gained me a reputation. What a shout
+there used to be when I came out of my little caboose, hot and
+flurried, and called out, "Rice-pudding day, my sons." Some of them
+were baked in large shallow pans, for the men and the sick, who always
+said that it reminded them of home. You would scarcely expect to
+finish up your dinner with pastry, but very often you would have found
+a good stock of it in my larder. Whenever I had a few leisure moments,
+I used to wash my hands, roll up my sleeves and roll out pastry. Very
+often I was interrupted to dispense medicines; but if the tarts had a
+flavour of senna, or the puddings tasted of rhubarb, it never
+interfered with their consumption. I declare I never heard or read of
+an army so partial to pastry as that British army before Sebastopol;
+while I had a reputation for my sponge-cakes that any pastry-cook in
+London, even Gunter, might have been proud of. The officers, full of
+fun and high spirits, used to crowd into the little kitchen, and,
+despite all my remonstrances, which were not always confined to words,
+for they made me frantic sometimes, and an iron spoon is a tempting
+weapon, would carry off the tarts hot from the oven, while the
+good-for-nothing black cooks, instead of lending me their aid, would
+stand by and laugh with all their teeth. And when the hot season
+commenced, the crowds that came to the British Hotel for my claret and
+cider cups, and other cooling summer drinks, were very complimentary
+in their expressions of appreciation of my skill.
+
+Now, supposing that you had made a hearty dinner and were thinking of
+starting homeward--if I can use so pleasant a term in reference to
+your cheerless quarters--it was very natural that you should be
+anxious to carry back something to your hut. Perhaps you expected to
+be sent into the trenches (many a supper cooked by me has been
+consumed in those fearful trenches by brave men, who could eat it with
+keen appetites while the messengers of death were speeding around
+them); or perhaps you had planned a little dinner-party, and wanted to
+give your friends something better than their ordinary fare. Anyhow,
+you would in all probability have some good reason for returning laden
+with comforts and necessaries from Spring Hill. You would not be very
+particular about carrying them. You might have been a great swell at
+home, where you would have shuddered if Bond Street had seen you
+carrying a parcel no larger than your card-case; but those
+considerations rarely troubled you here. Very likely, your servant was
+lying crouched in a rifle pit, having "pots" at the Russians, or
+keeping watch and ward in the long lines of trenches, or, stripped to
+his shirt, shovelling powder and shot into the great guns, whose
+steady roar broke the evening's calm. So if you did not wait upon
+yourself, you would stand a very fair chance of being starved. But you
+would open your knapsack, if you had brought one, for me to fill it
+with potatoes, and halloo out, "Never mind, mother!" although the
+gravy from the fowls on your saddle before you was soaking through the
+little modicum of paper which was all I could afford you. So laden,
+you would cheerfully start up the hill of mud hutward; and well for
+you if you did not come to grief on that treacherous sea of mud that
+lay swelling between the Col and your destination. Many a mishap,
+ludicrous but for their consequences, happened on it. I remember a
+young officer coming down one day just in time to carry off my last
+fowl and meat pie. Before he had gone far, the horse so floundered in
+the mud that the saddle-girths broke, and while the pies rolled into
+the clayey soil in one direction, the fowl flew in another. To make
+matters worse, the horse, in his efforts to extricate himself, did for
+them entirely; and in terrible distress, the poor fellow came back for
+me to set him up again. I shook my head for a long time, but at last,
+after he had over and over again urged upon me pathetically that he
+had two fellows coming to dine with him at six, and nothing in the
+world in his hut but salt pork, I resigned a plump fowl which I had
+kept back for my own dinner. Off he started again, but soon came back
+with, "Oh, mother, I forgot all about the potatoes; they've all rolled
+out upon that ---- road; you must fill my bag again." We all laughed
+heartily at him, but this state of things _had_ been rather tragical.
+
+Before I bring this chapter to a close, I should like, with the
+reader's permission, to describe one day of my life in the Crimea.
+They were all pretty much alike, except when there was fighting upon a
+large scale going on, and duty called me to the field. I was generally
+up and busy by daybreak, sometimes earlier, for in the summer my bed
+had no attractions strong enough to bind me to it after four. There
+was plenty to do before the work of the day began. There was the
+poultry to pluck and prepare for cooking, which had been killed on the
+previous night; the joints to be cut up and got ready for the same
+purpose; the medicines to be mixed; the store to be swept and cleaned.
+Of very great importance, with all these things to see after, were the
+few hours of quiet before the road became alive with travellers. By
+seven o'clock the morning coffee would be ready, hot and refreshing,
+and eagerly sought for by the officers of the Army Works Corps engaged
+upon making the great high-road to the front, and the Commissariat and
+Land Transport men carrying stores from Balaclava to the heights.
+There was always a great demand for coffee by those who knew its
+refreshing and strengthening qualities, milk I could not give them (I
+kept it in tins for special use); but they had it hot and strong, with
+plenty of sugar and a slice of butter, which I recommend as a capital
+substitute for milk. From that time until nine, officers on duty in
+the neighbourhood, or passing by, would look in for breakfast, and
+about half-past nine my sick patients began to show themselves. In
+the following hour they came thickly, and sometimes it was past twelve
+before I had got through this duty. They came with every variety of
+suffering and disease; the cases I most disliked were the frostbitten
+fingers and feet in the winter. That over, there was the hospital to
+visit across the way, which was sometimes overcrowded with patients. I
+was a good deal there, and as often as possible would take over books
+and papers, which I used to borrow for that purpose from my friends
+and the officers I knew. Once, a great packet of tracts was sent to me
+from Plymouth anonymously, and these I distributed in the same manner.
+By this time the day's news had come from the front, and perhaps among
+the casualties over night there would be some one wounded or sick, who
+would be glad to see me ride up with the comforts he stood most in
+need of; and during the day, if any accident occurred in the
+neighbourhood or on the road near the British Hotel, the men generally
+brought the sufferer there, whence, if the hurt was serious, he would
+be transferred to the hospital of the Land Transport opposite. I used
+not always to stand upon too much ceremony when I heard of sick or
+wounded officers in the front. Sometimes their friends would ask me to
+go to them, though very often I waited for no hint, but took the
+chance of meeting with a kind reception. I used to think of their
+relatives at home, who would have given so much to possess my
+privilege; and more than one officer have I startled by appearing
+before him, and telling him abruptly that he must have a mother, wife,
+or sister at home whom he missed, and that he must therefore be glad
+of some woman to take their place.
+
+Until evening the store would be filled with customers wanting
+stores, dinners, and luncheons; loungers and idlers seeking
+conversation and amusement; and at eight o'clock the curtain descended
+on that day's labour, and I could sit down and eat at leisure. It was
+no easy thing to clear the store, canteen, and yards; but we
+determined upon adhering to the rule that nothing should be sold after
+that hour, and succeeded. Any one who came after that time, came
+simply as a friend. There could be no necessity for any one, except on
+extraordinary occasions, when the rule could be relaxed, to purchase
+things after eight o'clock. And drunkenness or excess were discouraged
+at Spring Hill in every way; indeed, my few unpleasant scenes arose
+chiefly from my refusing to sell liquor where I saw it was wanted to
+be abused. I could appeal with a clear conscience to all who knew me
+there, to back my assertion that I neither permitted drunkenness among
+the men nor gambling among the officers. Whatever happened elsewhere,
+intoxication, cards, and dice were never to be seen, within the
+precincts of the British Hotel. My regulations were well known, and a
+kind-hearted officer of the Royals, who was much there, and who
+permitted me to use a familiarity towards him which I trust I never
+abused, undertook to be my Provost-marshal, but his duties were very
+light.
+
+At first we kept our store open on Sunday from sheer necessity, but
+after a little while, when stores in abundance were established at
+Kadikoi and elsewhere, and the absolute necessity no longer existed,
+Sunday became a day of most grateful rest at Spring Hill. This step
+also met with opposition from the men; but again we were determined,
+and again we triumphed. I am sure we needed rest. I have often
+wondered since how it was that I never fell ill or came home "on
+urgent private affairs." I am afraid that I was not sufficiently
+thankful to the Providence which gave me strength to carry out the
+work I loved so well, and felt so happy in being engaged upon; but
+although I never had a week's illness during my campaign, the labour,
+anxiety, and perhaps the few trials that followed it, have told upon
+me. I have never felt since that time the strong and hearty woman that
+I was when I braved with impunity the pestilence of Navy Bay and
+Cruces. It would kill me easily now.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF WAR--ADVANCE OF MY TURKISH FRIENDS
+    ON KAMARA--VISITORS TO THE CAMP--MISS NIGHTINGALE--MONS.
+    SOYER AND THE CHOLERA--SUMMER IN THE CRIMEA--"THIRSTY
+    SOULS"--DEATH BUSY IN THE TRENCHES.
+
+
+In the last three chapters, I have attempted, without any
+consideration of dates, to give my readers some idea of my life in the
+Crimea. I am fully aware that I have jumbled up events strangely,
+talking in the same page, and even sentence, of events which occurred
+at different times; but I have three excuses to offer for my
+unhistorical inexactness. In the first place, my memory is far from
+trustworthy, and I kept no written diary; in the second place, the
+reader must have had more than enough of journals and chronicles of
+Crimean life, and I am only the historian of Spring Hill; and in the
+third place, unless I am allowed to tell the story of my life in my
+own way, I cannot tell it at all.
+
+I shall now endeavour to describe my out-of-door life as much as
+possible, and write of those great events in the field of which I was
+a humble witness. But I shall continue to speak from my own experience
+simply; and if the reader should be surprised at my leaving any
+memorable action of the army unnoticed, he may be sure that it is
+because I was mixing medicines or making good things in the kitchen of
+the British Hotel, and first heard the particulars of it, perhaps,
+from the newspapers which came from home. My readers must know, too,
+that they were much more familiar with the history of the camp at
+their own firesides, than we who lived in it. Just as a spectator
+seeing one of the battles from a hill, as I did the Tchernaya, knows
+more about it than the combatant in the valley below, who only thinks
+of the enemy whom it is his immediate duty to repel; so you, through
+the valuable aid of the cleverest man in the whole camp, read in the
+_Times'_ columns the details of that great campaign, while we, the
+actors in it, had enough to do to discharge our own duties well, and
+rarely concerned ourselves in what seemed of such importance to you.
+And so very often a desperate skirmish or hard-fought action, the news
+of which created so much sensation in England, was but little regarded
+at Spring Hill.
+
+My first experience of battle was pleasant enough. Before we had been
+long at Spring Hill, Omar Pasha got something for his Turks to do, and
+one fine morning they were marched away towards the Russian outposts
+on the road to Baidar. I accompanied them on horseback, and enjoyed
+the sight amazingly. English and French cavalry preceded the Turkish
+infantry over the plain yet full of memorials of the terrible Light
+Cavalry charge a few months before; and while one detachment of the
+Turks made a reconnaissance to the right of the Tchernaya, another
+pushed their way up the hill, towards Kamara, driving in the Russian
+outposts, after what seemed but a slight resistance. It was very
+pretty to see them advance, and to watch how every now and then little
+clouds of white smoke puffed up from behind bushes and the crests of
+hills, and were answered by similar puffs from the long line of busy
+skirmishers that preceded the main body. This was my first experience
+of actual battle, and I felt that strange excitement which I do not
+remember on future occasions, coupled with an earnest longing to see
+more of warfare, and to share in its hazards. It was not long before
+my wish was gratified.
+
+I do not know much of the second bombardment of Sebastopol in the
+month of April, although I was as assiduous as I could be in my
+attendance at Cathcart's Hill. I could judge of its severity by the
+long trains of wounded which passed the British Hotel. I had a
+stretcher laid near the door, and very often a poor fellow was laid
+upon it, outwearied by the terrible conveyance from the front.
+
+After this unsuccessful bombardment, it seemed to us that there was a
+sudden lull in the progress of the siege; and other things began to
+interest us. There were several arrivals to talk over. Miss
+Nightingale came to supervise the Balaclava hospitals, and, before
+long, she had practical experience of Crimean fever. After her, came
+the Duke of Newcastle, and the great high priest of the mysteries of
+cookery, Mons. Alexis Soyer. He was often at Spring Hill, with the
+most smiling of faces and in the most gorgeous of irregular uniforms,
+and never failed to praise my soups and dainties. I always flattered
+myself that I was his match, and with our West Indian dishes could of
+course beat him hollow, and more than once I challenged him to a trial
+of skill; but the gallant Frenchman only shrugged his shoulders, and
+disclaimed my challenge with many flourishes of his jewelled hands,
+declaring that Madame proposed a contest where victory would cost him
+his reputation for gallantry, and be more disastrous than defeat. And
+all because I was a woman, forsooth. What nonsense to talk like that,
+when I was doing the work of half a dozen men. Then he would laugh and
+declare that, when our campaigns were over, we would render rivalry
+impossible, by combining to open the first restaurant in Europe. There
+was always fun in the store when the good-natured Frenchman was there.
+
+One dark, tempestuous night, I was knocked up by the arrival of other
+visitors. These were the first regiment of Sardinian Grenadiers, who,
+benighted on their way to the position assigned them, remained at
+Spring Hill until the morning. We soon turned out our staff, and
+lighted up the store, and entertained the officers as well as we could
+inside, while the soldiers bivouacked in the yards around. Not a
+single thing was stolen or disturbed that night, although they had
+many opportunities. We all admired and liked the Sardinians; they were
+honest, well-disciplined fellows, and I wish there had been no worse
+men or soldiers in the Crimea.
+
+As the season advanced many visitors came to the Crimea from all
+parts of the world, and many of them were glad to make Spring Hill
+their head-quarters. We should have been better off if some of them
+had spared us this compliment. A Captain St. Clair, for instance--who
+could doubt any one with such a name?--stayed some time with us, had
+the best of everything, and paid us most honourably with one bill upon
+his agents, while we cashed another to provide him with money for his
+homeward route. He was an accomplished fellow, and I really liked him;
+but, unfortunately for us, he was a swindler.
+
+I saw much of another visitor to the camp in the Crimea--an old
+acquaintance of mine with whom I had had many a hard bout in past
+times--the cholera. There were many cases in the hospital of the Land
+Transport Corps opposite, and I prescribed for many others personally.
+The raki sold in too many of the stores in Balaclava and Kadikoi was
+most pernicious; and although the authorities forbade the sutlers to
+sell it, under heavy penalties, it found its way into the camp in
+large quantities.
+
+During May, and while preparations were being made for the third great
+bombardment of the ill-fated city, summer broke beautifully, and the
+weather, chequered occasionally by fitful intervals of cold and rain,
+made us all cheerful. You would scarcely have believed that the happy,
+good-humoured, and jocular visitors to the British Hotel were the same
+men who had a few weeks before ridden gloomily through the muddy road
+to its door. It was a period of relaxation, and they all enjoyed it.
+Amusement was the order of the day. Races, dog-hunts, cricket-matches,
+and dinner-parties were eagerly indulged in, and in all I could be of
+use to provide the good cheer which was so essential a part of these
+entertainments; and when the warm weather came in all its intensity,
+and I took to manufacturing cooling beverages for my friends and
+customers, my store was always full. To please all was somewhat
+difficult, and occasionally some of them were scarcely so polite as
+they should have been to a perplexed hostess, who could scarcely be
+expected to remember that Lieutenant A. had bespoken his sangaree an
+instant before Captain B. and his friends had ordered their claret
+cup.
+
+In anticipation of the hot weather, I had laid in a large stock of
+raspberry vinegar, which, properly managed, helps to make a pleasant
+drink; and there was a great demand for sangaree, claret, and cider
+cups, the cups being battered pewter pots. Would you like, reader, to
+know my recipe for the favourite claret cup? It is simple enough.
+Claret, water, lemon-peel, sugar, nutmeg, and--ice--yes, ice, but not
+often and not for long, for the eager officers soon made an end of it.
+Sometimes there were dinner-parties at Spring Hill, but of these more
+hereafter. At one of the earliest, when the _Times_ correspondent was
+to be present, I rode down to Kadikoi, bought some calico and cut it
+up into table napkins. They all laughed very heartily, and thought
+perhaps of a few weeks previously, when every available piece of linen
+in the camp would have been snapped up for pocket-handkerchiefs.
+
+But the reader must not forget that all this time, although there
+might be only a few short and sullen roars of the great guns by day,
+few nights passed without some fighting in the trenches; and very
+often the news of the morning would be that one or other of those I
+knew had fallen. These tidings often saddened me, and when I awoke in
+the night and heard the thunder of the guns fiercer than usual, I have
+quite dreaded the dawn which might usher in bad news.
+
+The deaths in the trenches touched me deeply, perhaps for this reason.
+It was very usual, when a young officer was ordered into the trenches,
+for him to ride down to Spring Hill to dine, or obtain something more
+than his ordinary fare to brighten his weary hours in those fearful
+ditches. They seldom failed on these occasions to shake me by the hand
+at parting, and sometimes would say, "You see, Mrs. Seacole, I can't
+say good-bye to the dear ones at home, so I'll bid you good-bye for
+them. Perhaps you'll see them some day, and if the Russians should
+knock me over, mother, just tell them I thought of them all--will
+you?" And although all this might be said in a light-hearted manner,
+it was rather solemn. I felt it to be so, for I never failed (although
+who was I, that I should preach?) to say something about God's
+providence and relying upon it; and they were very good. No army of
+parsons could be much better than my sons. They would listen very
+gravely, and shake me by the hand again, while I felt that there was
+nothing in the world I would not do for them. Then very often the men
+would say, "I'm going in with my master to-night, Mrs. Seacole; come
+and look after him, if he's hit;" and so often as this happened I
+would pass the night restlessly, awaiting with anxiety the morning,
+and yet dreading to hear the news it held in store for me. I used to
+think it was like having a large family of children ill with fever,
+and dreading to hear which one had passed away in the night.
+
+And as often as the bad news came, I thought it my duty to ride up to
+the hut of the sufferer and do my woman's work. But I felt it deeply.
+How could it be otherwise? There was one poor boy in the Artillery,
+with blue eyes and light golden hair, whom I nursed through a long and
+weary sickness, borne with all a man's spirit, and whom I grew to love
+like a fond old-fashioned mother. I thought if ever angels watched
+over any life, they would shelter his; but one day, but a short time
+after he had left his sick-bed, he was struck down on his battery,
+working like a young hero. It was a long time before I could banish
+from my mind the thought of him as I saw him last, the yellow hair,
+stiff and stained with his life-blood, and the blue eyes closed in the
+sleep of death. Of course, I saw him buried, as I did poor H----
+V----, my old Jamaica friend, whose kind face was so familiar to me of
+old. Another good friend I mourned bitterly--Captain B----, of the
+Coldstreams--a great cricketer. He had been with me on the previous
+evening, had seemed dull, but had supped at my store, and on the
+following morning a brother officer told me he was shot dead while
+setting his pickets, which made me ill and unfit for work for the
+whole day. Mind you, a day was a long time to give to sorrow in the
+Crimea.
+
+I could give many other similar instances, but why should I sadden
+myself or my readers? Others have described the horrors of those fatal
+trenches; but their real history has never been written, and perhaps
+it is as well that so harrowing a tale should be left in oblivion.
+Such anecdotes as the following were very current in the Camp, but I
+have no means of answering for its truth. Two sergeants met in the
+trenches, who had been schoolmates in their youth; years had passed
+since they set out for the battle of life by different roads, and now
+they met again under the fire of a common enemy. With one impulse they
+started forward to exchange the hearty hand-shake and the mutual
+greetings, and while their hands were still clasped, a chance shot
+killed both.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    UNDER FIRE ON THE FATAL 18TH OF JUNE--BEFORE THE
+    REDAN--AT THE CEMETERY--THE ARMISTICE--DEATHS AT
+    HEAD-QUARTERS--DEPRESSION IN THE CAMP--PLENTY IN THE
+    CRIMEA--THE PLAGUE OF FLIES--UNDER FIRE AT THE BATTLE
+    OF THE TCHERNAYA--WORK ON THE FIELD--MY PATIENTS.
+
+
+Before I left the Crimea to return to England, the Adjutant-General of
+the British Army gave me a testimonial, which the reader has already
+read in Chapter XIV., in which he stated that I had "frequently
+exerted myself in the most praiseworthy manner in attending wounded
+men, even in positions of great danger." The simple meaning of this
+sentence is that, in the discharge of what I conceived to be my duty,
+I was frequently "under fire." Now I am far from wishing to speak of
+this fact with any vanity or pride, because, after all, one soon gets
+accustomed to it, and it fails at last to create more than temporary
+uneasiness. Indeed, after Sebastopol was ours, you might often see
+officers and men strolling coolly, even leisurely, across and along
+those streets, exposed to the enemy's fire, when a little haste would
+have carried them beyond the reach of danger. The truth was, I
+believe, they had grown so habituated to being in peril from shot or
+shell, that they rather liked the sensation, and found it difficult to
+get on without a little gratuitous excitement and danger.
+
+But putting aside the great engagements, where I underwent
+considerable peril, one could scarcely move about the various camps
+without some risk. The Russians had, it seemed, sunk great ships' guns
+into the earth, from which they fired shot and shell at a very long
+range, which came tumbling and plunging between, and sometimes into
+the huts and tents, in a very unwieldy and generally harmless fashion.
+Once when I was riding through the camp of the Rifles, a round shot
+came plunging towards me, and before I or the horse had time to be
+much frightened, the ugly fellow buried itself in the earth, with a
+heavy "thud," a little distance in front of us.
+
+In the first week of June, the third bombardment of Sebastopol opened,
+and the Spring Hill visitors had plenty to talk about. Many were the
+surmises as to when the assault would take place, of the success of
+which nobody entertained a doubt. Somehow or other, important secrets
+oozed out in various parts of the camp, which the Russians would have
+given much to know, and one of these places was the British Hotel.
+Some such whispers were afloat on the evening of Sunday the 17th of
+June, and excited me strangely. Any stranger not in my secret would
+have considered that my conduct fully justified my partner, Mr. Day,
+in sending me home, as better fitted for a cell in Bedlam than the
+charge of an hotel in the Crimea. I never remember feeling more
+excited or more restless than upon that day, and no sooner had night
+fairly closed in upon us than, instead of making preparations for bed,
+this same stranger would have seen me wrap up--the nights were still
+cold--and start off for a long walk to Cathcart's Hill, three miles
+and a half away. I stayed there until past midnight, but when I
+returned home, there was no rest for me; for I had found out that, in
+the stillness of the night, many regiments were marching down to the
+trenches, and that the dawn of day would be the signal that should let
+them loose upon the Russians. The few hours still left before
+daybreak, were made the most of at Spring Hill. We were all busily
+occupied in cutting bread and cheese and sandwiches, packing up fowls,
+tongues, and ham, wine and spirits, while I carefully filled the large
+bag, which I always carried into the field slung across my shoulder,
+with lint, bandages, needles, thread, and medicines; and soon after
+daybreak everything was ready packed upon two mules, in charge of my
+steadiest lad, and, I leading the way on horseback, the little
+cavalcade left the British Hotel before the sun of the fatal 18th of
+June had been many hours old.
+
+It was not long before our progress was arrested by the cavalry
+pickets closely stationed to stop all stragglers and spectators from
+reaching the scene of action. But after a Blight parley and when they
+found out who I was, and how I was prepared for the day's work, the
+men raised a shout for me, and, with their officer's sanction, allowed
+me to pass. So I reached Cathcart's Hill crowded with non-combatants,
+and, leaving there the mules, loaded myself with what provisions I
+could carry, and--it was a work of no little difficulty and
+danger--succeeded in reaching the reserves of Sir Henry Barnard's
+division, which was to have stormed something, I forget what; but when
+they found the attack upon the Redan was a failure, very wisely
+abstained. Here I found plenty of officers who soon relieved me of my
+refreshments, and some wounded men who found the contents of my bag
+very useful. At length I made my way to the Woronzoff Road, where the
+temporary hospital had been erected, and there I found the doctors
+hard enough at work, and hastened to help them as best I could. I
+bound up the wounds and ministered to the wants of a good many, and
+stayed there some considerable time.
+
+Upon the way, and even here, I was "under fire." More frequently than
+was agreeable, a shot would come ploughing up the ground and raising
+clouds of dust, or a shell whizz above us. Upon these occasions those
+around would cry out, "Lie down, mother, lie down!" and with very
+undignified and unladylike haste I had to embrace the earth, and
+remain there until the same voices would laughingly assure me that the
+danger was over, or one, more thoughtful than the rest, would come to
+give me a helping hand, and hope that the old lady was neither hit nor
+frightened. Several times in my wanderings on that eventful day, of
+which I confess to have a most confused remembrance, only knowing that
+I looked after many wounded men, I was ordered back, but each time my
+bag of bandages and comforts for the wounded proved my passport. While
+at the hospital I was chiefly of use looking after those, who, either
+from lack of hands or because their hurts were less serious, had to
+wait, pained and weary, until the kind-hearted doctors--who, however,
+_looked_ more like murderers--could attend to them. And the grateful
+words and smile which rewarded me for binding up a wound or giving
+cooling drink was a pleasure worth risking life for at any time. It
+was here that I received my only wound during the campaign. I threw
+myself too hastily on the ground, in obedience to the command of those
+around me, to escape a threatening shell, and fell heavily on the
+thumb of my right hand, dislocating it. It was bound up on the spot
+and did not inconvenience me much, but it has never returned to its
+proper shape.
+
+After this, first washing my hands in some sherry from lack of water,
+I went back to Cathcart's Hill, where I found my horse, and heard that
+the good-for-nothing lad, either frightened or tired of waiting, had
+gone away with the mules. I had to ride three miles after him, and
+then the only satisfaction I had arose from laying my horse-whip about
+his shoulders. After that, working my way round, how I can scarcely
+tell, I got to the extreme left attack, where General Eyre's division
+had been hotly engaged all day, and had suffered severely. I left my
+horse in charge of some men, and with no little difficulty, and at no
+little risk, crept down to where some wounded men lay, with whom I
+left refreshments. And then--it was growing late--I started for Spring
+Hill, where I heard all about the events of the luckless day from
+those who had seen them from posts of safety, while I, who had been in
+the midst of it all day, knew so little.
+
+On the following day some Irishmen of the 8th Royals brought me, in
+token of my having been among them, a Russian woman's dress and a poor
+pigeon, which they had brought away from one of the houses in the
+suburb where their regiment suffered so severely.
+
+But that evening of the 18th of June was a sad one, and the news that
+came in of those that had fallen were most heartrending. Both the
+leaders, who fell so gloriously before the Redan, had been very good
+to the mistress of Spring Hill. But a few days before the 18th, Col.
+Y---- had merrily declared that I should have a silver salver to hand
+about things upon, instead of the poor shabby one I had been reduced
+to; while Sir John C---- had been my kind patron for some years. It
+was in my house in Jamaica that Lady C---- had once lodged when her
+husband was stationed in that island. And when the recall home came,
+Lady C----, who, had she been like most women, would have shrunk from
+any exertion, declared that she was a soldier's wife and would
+accompany him. Fortunately the "Blenheim" was detained in the roads a
+few days after the time expected for her departure, and I put into its
+father's arms a little Scotchman, born within sight of the blue hills
+of Jamaica. And yet with these at home, the brave general--as I read
+in the _Times_ a few weeks later--displayed a courage amounting to
+rashness, and, sending away his aides-de-camp, rushed on to a certain
+death.
+
+On the following day, directly I heard of the armistice, I hastened to
+the scene of action, anxious to see once more the faces of those who
+had been so kind to me in life. That battle-field was a fearful sight
+for a woman to witness, and if I do not pray God that I may never see
+its like again, it is because I wish to be useful all my life, and it
+is in scenes of horror and distress that a woman can do so much. It
+was late in the afternoon, not, I think, until half-past four, that
+the Russians brought over the bodies of the two leaders of yesterday's
+assault. They had stripped Sir John of epaulettes, sword, and boots.
+Ah! how my heart felt for those at home who would so soon hear of this
+day's fatal work. It was on the following day, I think, that I saw
+them bury him near Cathcart's Hill, where his tent had been pitched.
+If I had been in the least humour for what was ludicrous, the looks
+and curiosity of the Russians who saw me during the armistice would
+have afforded me considerable amusement. I wonder what rank they
+assigned me.
+
+How true it is, as somebody has said, that misfortunes never come
+singly. N.B. Pleasures often do. For while we were dull enough at this
+great trouble, we had cholera raging around us, carrying off its
+victims of all ranks. There was great distress in the Sardinian camp
+on this account, and I soon lost another good customer, General E----,
+carried off by the same terrible plague. Before Mrs. E---- left the
+Crimea, she sent several useful things, kept back from the sale of the
+general's effects. At this sale I wanted to buy a useful waggon, but
+did not like to bid against Lord W----, who purchased it; but (I tell
+this anecdote to show how kind they all were to me) when his lordship
+heard of this he sent it over to Spring Hill, with a message that it
+was mine for a far lower price than he had given for it. And since my
+return home I have had to thank the same nobleman for still greater
+favours. But who, indeed, has not been kind to me?
+
+Within a week after General E----'s death, a still greater calamity
+happened. Lord Raglan died--that great soldier who had such iron
+courage, with the gentle smile and kind word that always show the
+good man. I was familiar enough with his person; for, although people
+did not know it in England, he was continually in the saddle looking
+after his suffering men, and scheming plans for their benefit. And the
+humblest soldier will remember that, let who might look stern and
+distant, the first man in the British army ever had a kind word to
+give him.
+
+During the time he was ill I was at head-quarters several times, and
+once his servants allowed me to peep into the room where their master
+lay. I do not think they knew that he was dying, but they seemed very
+sad and low--far more so than he for whom they feared. And on the day
+of his funeral I was there again. I never saw such heartfelt gloom as
+that which brooded on the faces of his attendants; but it was good to
+hear how they all, even the humblest, had some kind memory of the
+great general whom Providence had called from his post at such a
+season of danger and distress. And once again they let me into the
+room in which the coffin lay, and I timidly stretched out my hand and
+touched a corner of the union-jack which lay upon it; and then I
+watched it wind its way through the long lines of soldiery towards
+Kamiesch, while, ever and anon, the guns thundered forth in sorrow,
+not in anger. And for days after I could not help thinking of the
+"Caradoc," which was ploughing its way through the sunny sea with its
+sad burden.
+
+It was not in the nature of the British army to remain long dull, and
+before very long we went on gaily as ever, forgetting the terrible
+18th of June, or only remembering it to look forward to the next
+assault compensating for all. And once more the British Hotel was
+filled with a busy throng, and laughter and fun re-echoed through its
+iron rafters. Nothing of consequence was done in the front for weeks,
+possibly because Mr. Russell was taking holiday, and would not return
+until August.
+
+About this time the stores of the British Hotel were well filled, not
+only with every conceivable necessary of life, but with many of its
+most expensive luxuries. It was at this period that you could have
+asked for few things that I could not have supplied you with on the
+spot, or obtained for you, if you had a little patience and did not
+mind a few weeks' delay. Not only Spring Hill and Kadikoi, which--a
+poor place enough when we came--had grown into a town of stores, and
+had its market regulations and police, but the whole camp shared in
+this unusual plenty. Even the men could afford to despise salt meat
+and pork, and fed as well, if not better, than if they had been in
+quarters at home. And there were coffee-houses and places of amusement
+opened at Balaclava, and balls given in some of them, which raised my
+temper to an unwonted pitch, because I foresaw the dangers which they
+had for the young and impulsive; and sure enough they cost several
+officers their commissions. Right glad was I one day when the great
+purifier, Fire, burnt down the worst of these places and ruined its
+owner, a bad Frenchwoman. And the railway was in full work, and the
+great road nearly finished, and the old one passable, and the mules
+and horses looked in such fair condition, that you would scarcely have
+believed Farrier C----, of the Land Transport Corps, who would have
+told you then, and will tell you now, that he superintended, on one
+bleak morning of February, not six months agone, the task of throwing
+the corpses of one hundred and eight mules over the cliffs at Karanyi
+into the Black Sea beneath.
+
+Of course the summer introduced its own plagues, and among the worst
+of these were the flies. I shall never forget those Crimean flies, and
+most sincerely hope that, like the Patagonians, they are only to be
+found in one part of the world. Nature must surely have intended them
+for blackbeetles, and accidentally given them wings. There was no
+exterminating them--no thinning them--no escaping from them by night
+or by day. One of my boys confined himself almost entirely to laying
+baits and traps for their destruction, and used to boast that he
+destroyed them at the rate of a gallon a day; but I never noticed any
+perceptible decrease in their powers of mischief and annoyance. The
+officers in the front suffered terribly from them. One of my kindest
+customers, a lieutenant serving in the Royal Naval Brigade, who was a
+close relative of the Queen, whose uniform he wore, came to me in
+great perplexity. He evidently considered the fly nuisance the most
+trying portion of the campaign, and of far more consequence than the
+Russian shot and shell. "Mami," he said (he had been in the West
+Indies, and so called me by the familiar term used by the Creole
+children), "Mami, these flies respect nothing. Not content with eating
+my prog, they set to at night and make a supper of me," and his face
+showed traces of their attacks. "Confound them, they'll kill me, mami;
+they're everywhere, even in the trenches, and you'd suppose they
+wouldn't care to go there from choice. What can you do for me, mami?"
+
+Not much; but I rode down to Mr. B----'s store, at Kadikoi, where I
+was lucky in being able to procure a piece of muslin, which I pinned
+up (time was too precious to allow me to use needle and thread) into a
+mosquito net, with which the prince was delighted. He fell ill later
+in the summer, when I went up to his quarters and did all I could for
+him.
+
+As the summer wore on, busily passed by all of us at the British
+Hotel, rumours stronger than ever were heard of a great battle soon to
+be fought by the reinforcements which were known to have joined the
+Russian army. And I think that no one was much surprised when one
+pleasant August morning, at early dawn, heavy firing was heard towards
+the French position on the right, by the Tchernaya, and the stream of
+troops and on-lookers poured from all quarters in that direction.
+Prepared and loaded as usual, I was soon riding in the same direction,
+and saw the chief part of the morning's battle. I saw the Russians
+cross and recross the river. I saw their officers cheer and wave them
+on in the coolest, bravest manner, until they were shot down by
+scores. I was near enough to hear at times, in the lull of artillery,
+and above the rattle of the musketry, the excited cheers which told of
+a daring attack or a successful repulse; and beneath where I stood I
+could see--what the Russians could not--steadily drawn up, quiet and
+expectant, the squadrons of English and French cavalry, calmly yet
+impatiently waiting until the Russians' partial success should bring
+their sabres into play. But the contingency never happened; and we saw
+the Russians fall slowly back in good order, while the dark-plumed
+Sardinians and red-pantalooned French spread out in pursuit, and
+formed a picture so excitingly beautiful that we forgot the suffering
+and death they left behind. And then I descended with the rest into
+the field of battle.
+
+It was a fearful scene; but why repeat this remark. All death is
+trying to witness--even that of the good man who lays down his life
+hopefully and peacefully; but on the battle-field, when the poor body
+is torn and rent in hideous ways, and the scared spirit struggles to
+loose itself from the still strong frame that holds it tightly to the
+last, death is fearful indeed. It had come peacefully enough to some.
+They lay with half-opened eyes, and a quiet smile about the lips that
+showed their end to have been painless; others it had arrested in the
+heat of passion, and frozen on their pallid faces a glare of hatred
+and defiance that made your warm blood run cold. But little time had
+we to think of the dead, whose business it was to see after the dying,
+who might yet be saved. The ground was thickly cumbered with the
+wounded, some of them calm and resigned, others impatient and
+restless, a few filling the air with their cries of pain--all wanting
+water, and grateful to those who administered it, and more substantial
+comforts. You might see officers and strangers, visitors to the camp,
+riding about the field on this errand of mercy. And this,
+although--surely it could not have been intentional--Russian guns
+still played upon the scene of action. There were many others there,
+bent on a more selfish task. The plunderers were busy everywhere. It
+was marvellous to see how eagerly the French stripped the dead of what
+was valuable, not always, in their brutal work, paying much regard to
+the presence of a lady. Some of the officers, when I complained rather
+angrily, laughed, and said it was spoiling the Egyptians; but I _do_
+think the Israelites spared their enemies those garments, which,
+perhaps, were not so unmentionable in those days as they have since
+become.
+
+I attended to the wounds of many French and Sardinians, and helped to
+lift them into the ambulances, which came tearing up to the scene of
+action. I derived no little gratification from being able to dress the
+wounds of several Russians; indeed, they were as kindly treated as the
+others. One of them was badly shot in the lower jaw, and was beyond my
+or any human skill. Incautiously I inserted my finger into his mouth
+to feel where the ball had lodged, and his teeth closed upon it, in
+the agonies of death, so tightly that I had to call to those around to
+release it, which was not done until it had been bitten so deeply that
+I shall carry the scar with me to my grave. Poor fellow, he meant me
+no harm, for, as the near approach of death softened his features, a
+smile spread over his rough inexpressive face, and so he died.
+
+I attended another Russian, a handsome fellow, and an officer, shot in
+the side, who bore his cruel suffering with a firmness that was very
+noble. In return for the little use I was to him, he took a ring off
+his finger and gave it to me, and after I had helped to lift him into
+the ambulance he kissed my hand and smiled far more thanks than I had
+earned. I do not know whether he survived his wounds, but I fear not.
+Many others, on that day, gave me thanks in words the meaning of which
+was lost upon me, and all of them in that one common language of the
+whole world--smiles.
+
+I carried two patients off the field; one a French officer wounded on
+the hip, who chose to go back to Spring Hill and be attended by me
+there, and who, on leaving, told us that he was a relative of the
+Marshal (Pelissier); the other, a poor Cossack colt I found running
+round its dam, which lay beside its Cossack master dead, with its
+tongue hanging from its mouth. The colt was already wounded in the
+ears and fore-foot, and I was only just in time to prevent a French
+corporal who, perhaps for pity's sake, was preparing to give it it's
+_coup de grace_. I saved the poor thing by promising to give the
+Frenchman ten shillings if he would bring it down to the British
+Hotel, which he did that same evening. I attended to its hurts, and
+succeeded in rearing it, and it became a great pet at Spring Hill, and
+accompanied me to England.
+
+I picked up some trophies from the battle-field, but not many, and
+those of little value. I cannot bear the idea of plundering either the
+living or the dead; but I picked up a Russian metal cross, and took
+from the bodies of some of the poor fellows nothing of more value than
+a few buttons, which I severed from their coarse grey coats.
+
+So end my reminiscences of the battle of the Tchernaya, fought, as all
+the world knows, on the 16th of August, 1855.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    INSIDE SEBASTOPOL--THE LAST BOMBARDMENT OF
+    SEBASTOPOL--ON CATHCART'S HILL--RUMOURS IN THE CAMP--THE
+    ATTACK ON THE MALAKHOFF--THE OLD WORK AGAIN--A SUNDAY
+    EXCURSION--INSIDE "OUR" CITY--I AM TAKEN FOR A SPY, AND
+    THEREAT LOSE MY TEMPER--I VISIT THE REDAN, ETC.--MY
+    SHARE OF THE "PLUNDER."
+
+
+The three weeks following the battle of the Tchernaya were, I should
+think, some of the busiest and most eventful the world has ever seen.
+There was little doing at Spring Hill. Every one was either at his
+post, or too anxiously awaiting the issue of the last great
+bombardment to spend much time at the British Hotel. I think that I
+lost more of my patients and customers during those few weeks than
+during the whole previous progress of the siege. Scarce a night passed
+that I was not lulled to sleep with the heavy continuous roar of the
+artillery; scarce a morning dawned that the same sound did not usher
+in my day's work. The ear grew so accustomed during those weeks to the
+terrible roar, that when Sebastopol fell the sudden quiet seemed
+unnatural, and made us dull. And during the whole of this time the
+most perplexing rumours flew about, some having reference to the day
+of assault, the majority relative to the last great effort which it
+was supposed the Russians would make to drive us into the sea. I
+confess these latter rumours now and then caused me temporary
+uneasiness, Spring Hill being on the direct line of route which the
+actors in such a tragedy must take.
+
+I spent much of my time on Cathcart's Hill, watching, with a curiosity
+and excitement which became intense, the progress of the terrible
+bombardment. Now and then a shell would fall among the crowd of
+on-lookers which covered the hill; but it never disturbed us, so keen
+and feverish and so deadened to danger had the excitement and
+expectation made us.
+
+In the midst of the bombardment took place the important ceremony of
+distributing the Order of the Bath to those selected for that honour.
+I contrived to witness this ceremony very pleasantly; and although it
+cost me a day, I considered that I had fairly earned the pleasure. I
+was anxious to have some personal share in the affair, so I made, and
+forwarded to head-quarters, a cake which Gunter might have been at
+some loss to manufacture with the materials at my command, and which I
+adorned gaily with banners, flags, etc. I received great kindness from
+the officials at the ceremony, and from the officers--some of
+rank--who recognised me; indeed, I held quite a little _levee_ around
+my chair.
+
+Well, a few days after this ceremony, I thought the end of the world,
+instead of the war, was at hand, when every battery opened and poured
+a perfect hail of shot and shell upon the beautiful city which I had
+left the night before sleeping so calm and peaceful beneath the stars.
+The firing began at early dawn, and was fearful. Sleep was impossible;
+so I arose, and set out for my old station on Cathcart's Hill. And
+here, with refreshments for the anxious lookers-on, I spent most of my
+time, right glad of any excuse to witness the last scene of the siege.
+It was from this spot that I saw fire after fire break out in
+Sebastopol, and watched all night the beautiful yet terrible effect of
+a great ship blazing in the harbour, and lighting up the adjoining
+country for miles.
+
+The weather changed, as it often did in the Crimea, most capriciously;
+and the morning of the memorable 8th of September broke cold and
+wintry. The same little bird which had let me into so many secrets,
+also gave me a hint of what this day was pregnant with; and very early
+in the morning I was on horseback, with my bandages and refreshments,
+ready to repeat the work of the 18th of June last. A line of sentries
+forbade all strangers passing through without orders, even to
+Cathcart's Hill; but once more I found that my reputation served as a
+permit, and the officers relaxed the rule in my favour everywhere. So,
+early in the day, I was in my old spot, with my old appliances for the
+wounded and fatigued; little expecting, however, that this day would
+so closely resemble the day of the last attack in its disastrous
+results.
+
+It was noon before the cannonading suddenly ceased; and we saw, with a
+strange feeling of excitement, the French tumble out of their advanced
+trenches, and roll into the Malakhoff like a human flood. Onward they
+seemed to go into the dust and smoke, swallowed up by hundreds; but
+they never returned, and before long we saw workmen levelling parapets
+and filling up ditches, over which they drove, with headlong speed and
+impetuosity, artillery and ammunition-waggons, until there could be no
+doubt that the Malakhoff was taken, although the tide of battle still
+surged around it with violence, and wounded men were borne from it in
+large numbers. And before this, our men had made their attack, and the
+fearful assault of the Redan was going on, and failing. But I was soon
+too busy to see much, for the wounded were borne in even in greater
+numbers than at the last assault; whilst stragglers, slightly hurt,
+limped in, in fast-increasing numbers, and engrossed our attention. I
+now and then found time to ask them rapid questions; but they did not
+appear to know anything more than that everything had gone wrong. The
+sailors, as before, showed their gallantry, and even recklessness,
+conspicuously. The wounded of the ladder and sandbag parties came up
+even with a laugh, and joked about their hurts in the happiest
+conceivable manner.
+
+I saw many officers of the 97th wounded; and, as far as possible, I
+reserved my attentions for my old regiment, known so well in my native
+island. My poor 97th! their loss was terrible. I dressed the wound of
+one of its officers, seriously hit in the mouth; I attended to another
+wounded in the throat, and bandaged the hand of a third, terribly
+crushed by a rifle-bullet. In the midst of this we were often
+interrupted by those unwelcome and impartial Russian visitors--the
+shells. One fell so near that I thought my last hour was come; and,
+although I had sufficient firmness to throw myself upon the ground, I
+was so seriously frightened that I never thought of rising from my
+recumbent position until the hearty laugh of those around convinced me
+that the danger had passed by. Afterwards I picked up a piece of this
+huge shell, and brought it home with me.
+
+It was on this, as on every similar occasion, that I saw the _Times_
+correspondent eagerly taking down notes and sketches of the scene,
+under fire--listening apparently with attention to all the busy little
+crowd that surrounded him, but without laying down his pencil; and yet
+finding time, even in his busiest moment, to lend a helping hand to
+the wounded. It may have been on this occasion that his keen eye
+noticed me, and his mind, albeit engrossed with far more important
+memories, found room to remember me. I may well be proud of his
+testimony, borne so generously only the other day, and may well be
+excused for transcribing it from the columns of the _Times_:--"I have
+seen her go down, under fire, with her little store of creature
+comforts for our wounded men; and a more tender or skilful hand about
+a wound or broken limb could not be found among our best surgeons. I
+saw her at the assault on the Redan, at the Tchernaya, at the fall of
+Sebastopol, laden, not with plunder, good old soul! but with wine,
+bandages, and food for the wounded or the prisoners."
+
+I remained on Cathcart's Hill far into the night, and watched the city
+blazing beneath us, awe-struck at the terrible sight, until the bitter
+wind found its way through my thin clothing, and chilled me to the
+bone; and not till then did I leave for Spring Hill. I had little
+sleep that night. The night was made a ruddy lurid day with the glare
+of the blazing town; while every now and then came reports which shook
+the earth to its centre. And yet I believe very many of the soldiers,
+wearied with their day's labour, slept soundly throughout that
+terrible night, and awoke to find their work completed: for in the
+night, covered by the burning city, Sebastopol was left, a heap of
+ruins, to its victors; and before noon on the following day, none but
+dead and dying Russians were in the south side of the once famous and
+beautiful mistress-city of the Euxine.
+
+The good news soon spread through the camp. It gave great pleasure;
+but I almost think the soldiers would have been better pleased had the
+Russians delayed their parting twelve hours longer, and given the
+Highlanders and their comrades a chance of retrieving the disasters of
+the previous day. Nothing else could wipe away the soreness of defeat,
+or compensate for the better fortune which had befallen our allies the
+French.
+
+The news of the evacuation of Sebastopol soon carried away all traces
+of yesterday's fatigue. For weeks past I had been offering bets to
+every one that I would not only be the first woman to enter
+Sebastopol from the English lines, but that I would be the first to
+carry refreshments into the fallen city. And now the time I had longed
+for had come. I borrowed some mules from the Land Transport
+Corps--mine were knocked up by yesterday's work--and loading them with
+good things, started off with my partner and some other friends early
+on that memorable Sunday morning for Cathcart's Hill.
+
+When I found that strict orders had been given to admit no one inside
+Sebastopol, I became quite excited; and making my way to General
+Garrett's quarters, I made such an earnest representation of what I
+considered my right that I soon obtained a pass, of which the
+following is a copy:--
+
+    "Pass Mrs. Seacole and her attendants, with refreshments
+    for officers and soldiers in the Redan and in
+    Sebastopol.
+
+        "Garrett, M.G.
+
+            "Cathcart's Hill, Sept. 9, 1855."
+
+So many attached themselves to my staff, becoming for the nonce my
+attendants, that I had some difficulty at starting; but at last I
+passed all the sentries safely, much to the annoyance of many
+officers, who were trying every conceivable scheme to evade them, and
+entered the city. I can give you no very clear description of its
+condition on that Sunday morning, a year and a half ago. Many parts of
+it were still blazing furiously--explosions were taking place in all
+directions--every step had a score of dangers; and yet curiosity and
+excitement carried us on and on. I was often stopped to give
+refreshments to officers and men, who had been fasting for hours.
+Some, on the other hand, had found their way to Russian cellars; and
+one body of men were most ingloriously drunk, and playing the wildest
+pranks. They were dancing, yelling, and singing--some of them with
+Russian women's dresses fastened round their waists, and old bonnets
+stuck upon their heads.
+
+I was offered many trophies. All plunder was stopped by the sentries,
+and confiscated, so that the soldiers could afford to be liberal. By one
+I was offered a great velvet sofa; another pressed a huge arm-chair,
+which had graced some Sebastopol study, upon me; while a third begged my
+acceptance of a portion of a grand piano. What I did carry away was very
+unimportant: a gaily-decorated altar-candle, studded with gold and
+silver stars, which the present Commander-in-Chief condescended to
+accept as a Sebastopol memorial; an old cracked China teapot, which in
+happier times had very likely dispensed pleasure to many a small
+tea-party; a cracked bell, which had rung many to prayers during the
+siege, and which I bore away on my saddle; and a parasol, given me by a
+drunken soldier. He had a silk skirt on, and torn lace upon his wrists,
+and he came mincingly up, holding the parasol above his head, and
+imitating the walk of an affected lady, to the vociferous delight of his
+comrades. And all this, and much more, in that fearful charnel city,
+with death and suffering on every side.
+
+It was very hazardous to pass along some of the streets exposed to the
+fire of the Russians on the north side of the harbour. We had to wait
+and watch our opportunity, and then gallop for it. Some of us had
+close shaves of being hit. More than this, fires still kept breaking
+out around; while mines and fougasses not unfrequently exploded from
+unknown causes. We saw two officers emerge from a heap of ruins,
+covered and almost blinded with smoke and dust, from some such
+unlooked-for explosion. With considerable difficulty we succeeded in
+getting into the quarter of the town held by the French, where I was
+nearly getting into serious trouble.
+
+I had loitered somewhat behind my party, watching, with pardonable
+curiosity, the adroitness with which a party of French were plundering
+a house; and by the time my curiosity had been satisfied, I found
+myself quite alone, my retinue having preceded me by some few hundred
+yards. This would have been of little consequence, had not an American
+sailor lad, actuated either by mischief or folly, whispered to the
+Frenchmen that I was a Russian spy; and had they not, instead of
+laughing at him, credited his assertion, and proceeded to arrest me.
+Now, such a charge was enough to make a lion of a lamb; so I refused
+positively to dismount, and made matters worse by knocking in the cap
+of the first soldier who laid hands upon me, with the bell that hung
+at my saddle. Upon this, six or seven tried to force me to the
+guard-house in rather a rough manner, while I resisted with all my
+force, screaming out for Mr. Day, and using the bell for a weapon. How
+I longed for a better one I need not tell the reader. In the midst of
+this scene came up a French officer, whom I recognised as the patient
+I had taken to Spring Hill after the battle of the Tchernaya, and who
+took my part at once, and ordered them to release me. Although I
+rather weakened my cause, it was most natural that, directly I was
+released, I should fly at the varlet who had caused me this trouble;
+and I did so, using my bell most effectually, and aided, when my party
+returned, by their riding-whips.
+
+This little adventure took up altogether so much time that, when the
+French soldiers had made their apologies to me, and I had returned the
+compliment to the one whose head had been dented by my bell, it was
+growing late, and we made our way back to Cathcart's Hill. On the way,
+a little French soldier begged hard of me to buy a picture, which had
+been cut from above the altar of some church in Sebastopol. It was too
+dark to see much of his prize, but I ultimately became its possessor,
+and brought it home with me. It is some eight or ten feet in length,
+and represents, I should think, the Madonna. I am no judge of such
+things, but I think, although the painting is rather coarse, that the
+face of the Virgin, and the heads of Cherubim that fill the cloud from
+which she is descending, are soft and beautiful. There is a look of
+divine calmness and heavenly love in the Madonna's face which is very
+striking; and, perhaps, during the long and awful siege many a knee
+was bent in worship before it, and many a heart found comfort in its
+soft loving gaze.
+
+On the following day I again entered Sebastopol, and saw still more of
+its horrors. But I have refrained from describing so many scenes of
+woe, that I am loth to dwell much on these. The very recollection of
+that woeful hospital, where thousands of dead and dying had been left
+by the retreating Russians, is enough to unnerve the strongest and
+sicken the most experienced. I would give much if I had never seen
+that harrowing sight. I believe some Englishmen were found in it
+alive; but it was as well that they did not live to tell their
+fearful experience.
+
+I made my way into the Redan also, although every step was dangerous,
+and took from it some brown bread, which seemed to have been left in
+the oven by the baker when he fled.
+
+Before many days were passed, some Frenchwomen opened houses in
+Sebastopol; but in that quarter of the town held by the English the
+prospect was not sufficiently tempting for me to follow their example,
+and so I saw out the remainder of the campaign from my old quarters at
+Spring Hill.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    HOLIDAY IN THE CAMP--A NEW ENEMY, TIME--AMUSEMENTS IN
+    THE CRIMEA--MY SHARE IN THEM--DINNER AT SPRING HILL--AT
+    THE RACES--CHRISTMAS DAY IN THE BRITISH HOTEL--NEW
+    YEAR'S DAY IN THE HOSPITAL.
+
+
+Well, the great work was accomplished--Sebastopol was taken. The
+Russians had retired sullenly to their stronghold on the north side of
+the harbour, from which, every now and then, they sent a few vain shot
+and shell, which sent the amateurs in the streets of Sebastopol
+scampering, but gave the experienced no concern. In a few days the
+camp could find plenty to talk about in their novel position--and what
+then? What was to be done? More fighting? Another equally terrible and
+lengthy siege of the north? That was the business of a few at
+head-quarters and in council at home, between whom the electric wires
+flashed many a message. In the meanwhile, the real workers applied
+themselves to plan amusements, and the same energy and activity which
+had made Sebastopol a heap of ruins and a well-filled cemetery--which
+had dug the miles of trenches, and held them when made against a
+desperate foe--which had manned the many guns, and worked them so
+well, set to work as eager to kill their present enemy, Time, as they
+had lately been to destroy their fled enemies, the Russians.
+
+All who were before Sebastopol will long remember the beautiful autumn
+which succeeded to so eventful a summer, and ushered in so pleasantly
+the second winter of the campaign. It was appreciated as only those
+who earn the right to enjoyment can enjoy relaxation. The camp was
+full of visitors of every rank. They thronged the streets of
+Sebastopol, sketching its ruins and setting up photographic apparatus,
+in contemptuous indifference of the shot with which the Russians
+generally favoured every conspicuous group.
+
+Pleasure was hunted keenly. Cricket matches, pic-nics, dinner parties,
+races, theatricals, all found their admirers. My restaurant was always
+full, and once more merry laughter was heard, and many a dinner party
+was held, beneath the iron roof of the British Hotel. Several were
+given in compliment to our allies, and many distinguished Frenchmen
+have tested my powers of cooking. You might have seen at one party
+some of their most famous officers. At once were present a Prince of
+the Imperial family of France, the Duc de Rouchefoucault, and a
+certain corporal in the French service, who was perhaps the best known
+man in the whole army, the Viscount Talon. They expressed themselves
+highly gratified at the _carte_, and perhaps were not a little
+surprised as course after course made its appearance, and to soup and
+fish succeeded turkeys, saddle of mutton, fowls, ham, tongue, curry,
+pastry of many sorts, custards, jelly, blanc-mange, and olives. I took
+a peculiar pride in doing my best when they were present, for I knew a
+little of the secrets of the French commissariat. I wonder if the
+world will ever know more. I wonder if the system of secresy which has
+so long kept veiled the sufferings of the French army before
+Sebastopol will ever yield to truth. I used to guess something of
+those sufferings when I saw, even after the fall of Sebastopol,
+half-starved French soldiers prowling about my store, taking eagerly
+even what the Turks rejected as unfit for human food; and no one could
+accuse _them_ of squeamishness. I cannot but believe that in some
+desks or bureaux lie notes or diaries which shall one day be given to
+the world; and when this happens, the terrible distresses of the
+English army will pall before the unheard-of sufferings of the French.
+It is true that they carried from Sebastopol the lion's share of
+glory. My belief is that they deserved it, having borne by far a
+larger proportion of suffering.
+
+There were few dinners at Spring Hill at which the guests did not show
+their appreciation of their hostess's labour by drinking her health;
+and at the dinner I have above alluded to, the toast was responded to
+with such enthusiasm that I felt compelled to put my acknowledgments
+into the form of a little speech, which Talon interpreted to his
+countrymen. The French Prince was, after this occasion, several times
+at the British Hotel. He was there once when some Americans were
+received by me with scarcely that cordiality which I have been told
+distinguished my reception of guests; and upon their leaving I told
+him--quite forgetting his own connection with America--of my prejudice
+against the Yankees. He heard me for a little while, and then he
+interrupted me.
+
+"Tenez! Madame Seacole, I too am American a little."
+
+What a pity I was not born a countess! I am sure I should have made a
+capital courtier. Witness my impromptu answer:--
+
+"I should never have guessed it, Prince."--And he seemed amused.
+
+With the theatricals directly I had nothing to do. Had I been a little
+younger the companies would very likely have been glad of me, for no
+one liked to sacrifice their beards to become Miss Julia or plain Mary
+Ann; and even the beardless subalterns had voices which no coaxing
+could soften down. But I lent them plenty of dresses; indeed, it was
+the only airing which a great many gay-coloured muslins had in the
+Crimea. How was I to know when I brought them what camp-life was? And
+in addition to this, I found it necessary to convert my kitchen into a
+temporary green-room, where, to the wonderment, and perhaps scandal,
+of the black cook, the ladies of the company of the 1st Royals were
+taught to manage their petticoats with becoming grace, and neither to
+show their awkward booted ankles, nor trip themselves up over their
+trains. It was a difficult task in many respects. Although I laced
+them in until they grew blue in the face, their waists were a disgrace
+to the sex; while--crinoline being unknown then--my struggles to give
+them becoming _embonpoint_ may be imagined. It was not until a year
+later that _Punch_ thought of using a clothes-basket; and I would have
+given much for such a hint when I was dresser to the theatrical
+company of the 1st Royals. The hair was another difficulty. To be
+sure, there was plenty in the camp, only it was in the wrong place,
+and many an application was made to me for a set of curls. However, I
+am happy to say I am not become a customer of the wigmakers yet.
+
+My recollections of hunting in the Crimea are confined to seeing
+troops of horsemen sweep by with shouts and yells after some wretched
+dog. Once I was very nearly frightened out of my wits--my first
+impression being that the Russians had carried into effect their old
+threat of driving us into the sea--by the startling appearance of a
+large body of horsemen tearing down the hill after, apparently,
+nothing. However I discovered in good time that, in default of vermin,
+they were chasing a brother officer with a paper bag.
+
+My experience of Crimean races are perfect, for I was present, in the
+character of cantiniere, at all the more important meetings. Some of
+them took place before Christmas, and some after; but I shall exhaust
+the subject at once. I had no little difficulty to get the things on
+to the course; and in particular, after I had sat up the whole night
+making preparations for the December races, at the Monastery of St.
+George, I could not get my poor mules over the rough country, and
+found myself, in the middle of the day, some miles from the course. At
+last I gave it up as hopeless, and, dismounting, sat down by the
+roadside to consider how I could possibly dispose of the piles of
+sandwiches, bread, cheese, pies, and tarts, which had been prepared
+for the hungry spectators. At last, some officers, who expected me
+long before, came to look after me, and by their aid we reached the
+course.
+
+I was better off at the next meeting, for a kind-hearted Major of
+Artillery provided me with a small bell-tent that was very useful, and
+enabled me to keep my stores out of reach of the light-fingered
+gentry, who were as busy in the Crimea as at Epsom or Hampton Court.
+Over this tent waved the flag of the British Hotel, but, during the
+day, it was struck, for an accident happening to one Captain D----, he
+was brought to my tent insensible, where I quickly improvised a couch
+of some straw, covered with the Union Jack, and brought him round. I
+mention this trifle to show how ready of contrivance a little
+campaigning causes one to become. I had several patients in
+consequence of accidents at the races. Nor was I altogether free from
+accidents myself. On the occasion of the races by the Tchernaya, after
+the armistice, my cart, on turning a sudden bend in the steep track,
+upset, and the crates, containing plates and dishes, rolled over and
+over until their contents were completely broken up; so that I was
+reduced to hand about sandwiches, etc., on broken pieces of
+earthenware and scraps of paper. I saved some glasses, but not many,
+and some of the officers were obliged to drink out of stiff paper
+twisted into funnel-shaped glasses.
+
+It was astonishing how well the managers of these Crimean races had
+contrived to imitate the old familiar scenes at home. You might well
+wonder where the racing saddles and boots, and silk caps and jackets
+had come from; but our connection with England was very different to
+what it had been when I first came to the Crimea, and many a wife and
+sister's fingers had been busy making the racing gear for the Crimea
+meetings. And in order that the course should still more closely
+resemble Ascot or Epsom, some soldiers blackened their faces and came
+out as Ethiopian serenaders admirably, although it would puzzle the
+most ingenious to guess where they got their wigs and banjoes from. I
+caught one of them behind my tent in the act of knocking off the neck
+of a bottle of champagne, and, paralysed by the wine's hasty exit, the
+only excuse he offered was, that he wanted to know if the officers'
+luxury was better than rum.
+
+A few weeks before Christmas, happened that fearful explosion, in the
+French ammunition park, which destroyed so many lives. We had
+experienced nothing at all like it before. The earth beneath us, even
+at the distance of three miles, reeled and trembled with the shock;
+and so great was the force of the explosion, that a piece of stone was
+hurled with some violence against the door of the British Hotel. We
+all felt for the French very much, although I do not think that the
+armies agreed quite so well after the taking of the Malakhoff, and the
+unsuccessful assault upon the Redan, as they had done previously. I
+saw several instances of unpleasantness and collision, arising from
+allusions to sore points. One, in particular, occurred in my store.
+
+The French, when they wanted--it was very seldom--to wound the pride
+of the English soldiery, used to say significantly, in that jargon by
+which the various nations in the Crimea endeavoured to obviate the
+consequences of what occurred at the Tower of Babel, some time ago,
+"Malakhoff bono--Redan no bono." And this, of course, usually led to
+recriminatory statements, and history was ransacked to find something
+consolatory to English pride. Once I noticed a brawny man, of the Army
+Works Corps, bringing a small French Zouave to my canteen, evidently
+with the view of standing treat. The Frenchman seemed mischievously
+inclined, and, probably relying upon the good humour on the
+countenance of his gigantic companion, began a little playful
+badinage, ending with the taunt of "Redan, no bono--Redan, no bono." I
+never saw any man look so helplessly angry as the Englishman did. For
+a few minutes he seemed absolutely rooted to the ground. Of course he
+could have crushed his mocking friend with ease, but how could he
+answer his taunt. All at once, however, a happy thought struck him,
+and rushing up to the Zouave, he caught him round the waist and threw
+him down, roaring out, "Waterloo was bono--Waterloo was bono." It was
+as much as the people on the premises could do to part them, so
+convulsed were we all with laughter.
+
+And before Christmas, occurred my first and last attack of illness in
+the Crimea. It was not of much consequence, nor should I mention it
+but to show the kindness of my soldier-friends. I think it arose from
+the sudden commencement of winter, for which I was but poorly
+provided. However, I soon received much sympathy and many presents of
+warm clothing, etc.; but the most delicate piece of attention was
+shown me by one of the Sappers and Miners, who, hearing the report
+that I was dead, positively came down to Spring Hill to take my
+measure for a coffin. This may seem a questionable compliment, but I
+really felt flattered and touched with such a mark of thoughtful
+attention. Very few in the Crimea had the luxury of any better coffin
+than a blanket-shroud, and it was very good of the grateful fellow to
+determine that his old friend, the mistress of Spring Hill, should
+have an honour conceded to so very few of the illustrious dead before
+Sebastopol.
+
+So Christmas came, and with it pleasant memories of home and of home
+comforts. With it came also news of home--some not of the most
+pleasant description--and kind wishes from absent friends. "A merry
+Christmas to you," writes one, "and many of them. Although you will
+not write to us, we see your name frequently in the newspapers, from
+which we judge that you are strong and hearty. All your old Jamaica
+friends are delighted to hear of you, and say that you are an honour
+to the Isle of Springs."
+
+I wonder if the people of other countries are as fond of carrying with
+them everywhere their home habits as the English. I think not. I think
+there was something purely and essentially English in the
+determination of the camp to spend the Christmas-day of 1855 after the
+good old "home" fashion. It showed itself weeks before the eventful
+day. In the dinner parties which were got up--in the orders sent to
+England--in the supplies which came out, and in the many applications
+made to the hostess of the British Hotel for plum-puddings and
+mince-pies. The demand for them, and the material necessary to
+manufacture them, was marvellous. I can fancy that if returns could be
+got at of the flour, plums, currants, and eggs consumed on
+Christmas-day in the out-of-the-way Crimean peninsula, they would
+astonish us. One determination appeared to have taken possession of
+every mind--to spend the festive day with the mirth and jollity which
+the changed prospect of affairs warranted; and the recollection of a
+year ago, when death and misery were the camp's chief guests, only
+served to heighten this resolve.
+
+For three weeks previous to Christmas-day, my time was fully occupied
+in making preparations for it. Pages of my books are filled with
+orders for plum-puddings and mince-pies, besides which I sold an
+immense quantity of raw material to those who were too far off to send
+down for the manufactured article on Christmas-day, and to such
+purchasers I gave a plain recipe for their guidance. Will the reader
+take any interest in my Crimean Christmas-pudding? It was plain, but
+decidedly good. However, you shall judge for yourself:--"One pound of
+flour, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a pound
+of fat pork, chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little
+cinnamon or chopped lemon, half-pint of milk or water; mix these well
+together, and boil four hours."
+
+From an early hour in the morning until long after the night had set
+in, were I and my cooks busy endeavouring to supply the great demand
+for Christmas fare. We had considerable difficulty in keeping our
+engagements, but by substituting mince-pies for plum-puddings, in a
+few cases, we succeeded. The scene in the crowded store, and even in
+the little over-heated kitchen, with the officers' servants, who came
+in for their masters' dinners, cannot well be described. Some were
+impatient themselves, others dreaded their masters' impatience as the
+appointed dinner hour passed by--all combined by entreaties, threats,
+cajolery, and fun to drive me distracted. Angry cries for the major's
+plum-pudding, which was to have been ready an hour ago, alternated
+with an entreaty that I should cook the captain's mince-pies to a
+turn--"Sure, he likes them well done, ma'am. Bake 'em as brown as your
+own purty face, darlint."
+
+I did not get my dinner until eight o'clock, and then I dined in peace
+off a fine wild turkey or bustard, shot for me on the marshes by the
+Tchernaya. It weighed twenty-two pounds, and, although somewhat coarse
+in colour, had a capital flavour.
+
+Upon New Year's-day I had another large cooking of plum-puddings and
+mince-pies; this time upon my own account. I took them to the hospital
+of the Land Transport Corps, to remind the patients of the home
+comforts they longed so much for. It was a sad sight to see the once
+fine fellows, in their blue gowns, lying quiet and still, and reduced
+to such a level of weakness and helplessness. They all seemed glad for
+the little home tokens I took them.
+
+There was one patient who had been a most industrious and honest
+fellow, and who did not go into the hospital until long and wearing
+illness compelled him. I was particularly anxious to look after him,
+but I found him very weak and ill. I stayed with him until evening,
+and before I left him, kind fancy had brought to his bedside his wife
+and children from his village-home in England, and I could hear him
+talking to them in a low and joyful tone. Poor, poor fellow! the New
+Year so full of hope and happiness had dawned upon him, but he did not
+live to see the wild flowers spring up peacefully through the
+war-trodden sod before Sebastopol.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    NEW YEAR IN THE CRIMEA--GOOD NEWS--THE ARMISTICE--BARTER
+    WITH THE RUSSIANS--WAR AND PEACE--TIDINGS OF
+    PEACE--EXCURSIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE CRIMEA--TO
+    SIMPHEROPOL, BAKTCHISERAI, ETC.--THE TROOPS BEGIN TO
+    LEAVE THE CRIMEA--FRIENDS' FAREWELLS--THE CEMETERIES--WE
+    REMOVE FROM SPRING HILL TO BALACLAVA--ALARMING SACRIFICE
+    OF OUR STOCK--A LAST GLIMPSE OF SEBASTOPOL--HOME!
+
+
+Before the New Year was far advanced we all began to think of going
+home, making sure that peace would soon be concluded. And never did
+more welcome message come anywhere than that which brought us
+intelligence of the armistice, and the firing, which had grown more
+and more slack lately, ceased altogether. Of course the army did not
+desire peace because they had any distaste for fighting; so far from
+it, I believe the only more welcome intelligence would have been news
+of a campaign in the field, but they were most heartily weary of
+sieges, and the prospect of another year before the gloomy north of
+Sebastopol damped the ardour of the most sanguine. Before the
+armistice was signed, the Russians and their old foes made advances of
+friendship, and the banks of the Tchernaya used to be thronged with
+strangers, and many strange acquaintances were thus began. I was one
+of the first to ride down to the Tchernaya, and very much delighted
+seemed the Russians to see an English woman. I wonder if they thought
+they all had my complexion. I soon entered heartily into the then
+current amusement--that of exchanging coin, etc., with the Russians. I
+stole a march upon my companions by making the sign of the cross upon
+my bosom, upon which a Russian threw me, in exchange for some pence, a
+little metal figure of some ugly saint. Then we wrapped up halfpence
+in clay, and received coins of less value in exchange. Seeing a
+soldier eating some white bread, I made signs of wanting some, and
+threw over a piece of money. I had great difficulty in making the man
+understand me, but after considerable pantomime, with surprise in his
+round bullet eyes, he wrapped up his bread in some paper, then coated
+it with clay and sent it over to me. I thought it would look well
+beside my brown bread taken from the strange oven in the terrible
+Redan, and that the two would typify war and peace. There was a great
+traffic going on in such things, and a wag of an officer, who could
+talk Russian imperfectly, set himself to work to persuade an innocent
+Russian that I was his wife, and having succeeded in doing so promptly
+offered to dispose of me for the medal hanging at his breast.
+
+The last firing of any consequence was the salutes with which the good
+tidings of peace were received by army and navy. After this soon began
+the home-going with happy faces and light hearts, and some kind
+thoughts and warm tears for the comrades left behind.
+
+I was very glad to hear of peace, also, although it must have been
+apparent to every one that it would cause our ruin. We had lately made
+extensive additions to our store and out-houses--our shelves were
+filled with articles laid in at a great cost, and which were now
+unsaleable, and which it would be equally impossible to carry home.
+Everything, from our stud of horses and mules down to our latest
+consignments from home, must be sold for any price; and, as it
+happened, for many things, worth a year ago their weight in gold, no
+purchaser could now be found. However, more of this hereafter.
+
+Before leaving the Crimea, I made various excursions into the
+interior, visiting Simpheropol and Baktchiserai. I travelled to
+Simpheropol with a pretty large party, and had a very amusing journey.
+My companions were young and full of fun, and tried hard to persuade
+the Russians that I was Queen Victoria, by paying me the most absurd
+reverence. When this failed they fell back a little, and declared that
+I was the Queen's first cousin. Anyhow, they attracted crowds about
+me, and I became quite a lioness in the streets of Simpheropol, until
+the arrival of some Highlanders in their uniform cut me out.
+
+My excursion to Baktchiserai was still more amusing and pleasant. I
+found it necessary to go to beat up a Russian merchant, who, after the
+declaration of peace, had purchased stores of us, and some young
+officers made up a party for the purpose. We hired an araba, filled it
+with straw, and some boxes to sit upon, and set out very early, with
+two old umbrellas to shield us from the mid-day sun and the night
+dews. We had with us a hamper carefully packed, before parting, with a
+cold duck, some cold meat, a tart, etc. The Tartar's two horses were
+soon knocked up, and the fellow obtained a third at a little village,
+and so we rolled on until mid-day, when, thoroughly exhausted, we left
+our clumsy vehicle and carried our hamper beneath the shade of a
+beautiful cherry-tree, and determined to lunch. Upon opening it the
+first thing that met our eyes was a fine rat, who made a speedy
+escape. Somewhat gravely, we proceeded to unpack its contents, without
+caring to express our fears to one another, and quite soon enough we
+found them realized. How or where the rat had gained access to our
+hamper it was impossible to say, but he had made no bad use of his
+time, and both wings of the cold duck had flown, while the tart was
+considerably mangled. Sad discovery this for people who, although,
+hungry, were still squeamish. We made out as well as we could with the
+cold beef, and gave the rest to our Tartar driver, who had apparently
+no disinclination to eating after the rat, and would very likely have
+despised us heartily for such weakness. After dinner we went on more
+briskly, and succeeded in reaching Baktchiserai. My journey was
+perfectly unavailing. I could not find my debtor at home, and if I had
+I was told it would take three weeks before the Russian law would
+assist me to recover my claim. Determined, however, to have some
+compensation, I carried off a raven, who had been croaking angrily at
+my intrusion. Before we had been long on our homeward journey,
+however, Lieut. C---- sat upon it, of course accidentally, and we
+threw it to its relatives--the crows.
+
+As the spring advanced, the troops began to move away at a brisk pace.
+As they passed the Iron House upon the Col--old for the Crimea, where
+so much of life's action had been compressed into so short a space of
+time--they would stop and give us a parting cheer, while very often
+the band struck up some familiar tune of that home they were so gladly
+seeking. And very often the kind-hearted officers would find time to
+run into the British Hotel to bid us good-bye, and give us a farewell
+shake of the hand; for you see war, like death, is a great leveller,
+and mutual suffering and endurance had made us all friends. "My dear
+Mrs. Seacole, and my dear Mr. Day," wrote one on a scrap of paper left
+on the counter, "I have called here four times this day, to wish you
+good-bye. I am so sorry I was not fortunate enough to see you. I shall
+still hope to see you to-morrow morning. We march at seven a.m."
+
+And yet all this going home seemed strange and somewhat sad, and
+sometimes I felt that I could not sympathise with the glad faces and
+happy hearts of those who were looking forward to the delights of
+home, and the joy of seeing once more the old familiar faces
+remembered so fondly in the fearful trenches and the hard-fought
+battle-fields. Now and then we would see a lounger with a blank face,
+taking no interest in the bustle of departure, and with him I
+acknowledged to have more fellow-feeling than with the others, for he,
+as well as I, clearly had no home to go to. He was a soldier by choice
+and necessity, as well as by profession. He had no home, no loved
+friends; the peace would bring no particular pleasure to him, whereas
+war and action were necessary to his existence, gave him excitement,
+occupation, the chance of promotion. Now and then, but seldom,
+however, you came across such a disappointed one. Was it not so with
+me? Had I not been happy through the months of toil and danger, never
+knowing what fear or depression was, finding every moment of the day
+mortgaged hours in advance, and earning sound sleep and contentment by
+sheer hard work? What better or happier lot could possibly befall me?
+And, alas! how likely was it that my present occupation gone, I might
+long in vain for another so stirring and so useful. Besides which, it
+was pretty sure that I should go to England poorer than I left it,
+and although I was not ashamed of poverty, beginning life again in
+the autumn--I mean late in the summer of life--is hard up-hill work.
+
+Peace concluded, the little jealousies which may have sprung up
+between the French and their allies seemed forgotten, and every one
+was anxious, ere the parting came, to make the most of the time yet
+left in improving old friendships and founding new. Among others, the
+47th, encamped near the Woronzoff Road, gave a grand parting
+entertainment to a large company of their French neighbours, at which
+many officers of high rank were present. I was applied to by the
+committee of management to superintend the affair, and, for the last
+time in the Crimea, the health of Madame Seacole was proposed and duly
+honoured. I had grown so accustomed to the honour that I had no
+difficulty in returning thanks in a speech which Colonel B----
+interpreted amid roars of laughter to the French guests.
+
+As the various regiments moved off, I received many acknowledgments
+from those who thought they owed me gratitude. Little presents, warm
+farewell words, kind letters full of grateful acknowledgments for
+services so small that I had forgotten them long, long ago--how easy
+it is to reach warm hearts!--little thoughtful acts of kindness, even
+from the humblest. And these touched me the most. I value the letters
+received from the working men far more than the testimonials of their
+officers. I had nothing to gain from the former, and can point to
+their testimony fearlessly. I am strongly tempted to insert some of
+these acknowledgments, but I will confine myself to one:--
+
+    "Camp, near Karani, June 16, 1856.
+
+    "My dear Mrs. Seacole,--As you are about to leave the
+    Crimea, I avail myself of the only opportunity which may
+    occur for some time, to acknowledge my gratitude to you,
+    and to thank you for the kindness which I, in common
+    with many others, received at your hands, when attacked
+    with cholera in the spring of 1855. But I have no
+    language to do it suitably.
+
+    "I am truly sensible that your kindness far exceeded my
+    claims upon your sympathy. It is said by some of your
+    friends, I hope truly, that you are going to England.
+    There can be none from the Crimea more welcome there,
+    for your kindness in the sick-tent, and your heroism in
+    the battle-field, have endeared you to the whole army.
+
+    "I am sure when her most gracious Majesty the Queen
+    shall have become acquainted with the service you have
+    gratuitously rendered to so many of her brave soldiers,
+    her generous heart will thank you. For you have been an
+    instrument in the hands of the Almighty to preserve many
+    a gallant heart to the empire, to fight and win her
+    battles, if ever again war may become a necessity.
+    Please to accept this from your most grateful humble
+    servant,
+
+        "W. J. Tynan."
+
+But I had other friends in the Crimea--friends who could never thank
+me. Some of them lay in their last sleep, beneath indistinguishable
+mounds of earth; some in the half-filled trenches, a few beneath the
+blue waters of the Euxine. I might in vain attempt to gather the wild
+flowers which sprung up above many of their graves, but I knew where
+some lay, and could visit their last homes on earth. And to all the
+cemeteries where friends rested so calmly, sleeping well after a
+life's work nobly done, I went many times, lingering long over many a
+mound that bore the names of those whom I had been familiar with in
+life, thinking of what they had been, and what I had known of them.
+Over some I planted shrubs and flowers, little lilac trees, obtained
+with no small trouble, and flowering evergreens, which looked quite
+gay and pretty ere I left, and may in time become great trees, and
+witness strange scenes, or be cut down as fuel for another besieging
+army--who can tell? And from many graves I picked up pebbles, and
+plucked simple wild-flowers, or tufts of grass, as memorials for
+relatives at home. How pretty the cemeteries used to look beneath the
+blue peaceful sky; neatly enclosed with stone walls, and full of the
+grave-stones reared by friends over friends. I met many here,
+thoughtfully taking their last look of the resting-places of those
+they knew and loved. I saw many a proud head bowed down above them. I
+knew that many a proud heart laid aside its pride here, and stood in
+the presence of death, humble and childlike. And by the clasped hand
+and moistened eye, I knew that from many a heart sped upward a
+grateful prayer to the Providence which had thought fit in his
+judgment to take some, and in his mercy to spare the rest.
+
+Some three weeks before the Crimea was finally evacuated, we moved
+from our old quarters to Balaclava, where we had obtained permission
+to fit up a store for the short time which would elapse before the
+last red coat left Russian soil. The poor old British Hotel! We could
+do nothing with it. The iron house was pulled down, and packed up for
+conveyance home, but the Russians got all of the out-houses and sheds
+which was not used as fuel. All the kitchen fittings and stoves, that
+had cost us so much, fell also into their hands. I only wish some cook
+worthy to possess them has them now. We could sell nothing. Our horses
+were almost given away, our large stores of provisions, etc., were at
+any one's service. It makes my heart sick to talk of the really
+alarming sacrifices we made. The Russians crowded down ostensibly to
+purchase, in reality to plunder. Prime cheeses, which had cost us
+tenpence a pound, were sold to them for less than a penny a pound; for
+wine, for which we had paid forty-eight shillings a dozen, they bid
+four shillings. I could not stand this, and in a fit of desperation, I
+snatched up a hammer and broke up case after case, while the
+bystanders held out their hands and caught the ruby stream. It may
+have been wrong, but I was too excited to think. There was no more of
+my own people to give it to, and I would rather not present it to our
+old foes.
+
+We were among the last to leave the Crimea. Before going I borrowed a
+horse, easy enough now, and rode up the old well-known road--how
+unfamiliar in its loneliness and quiet--to Cathcart's Hill. I wished
+once more to impress the scene upon my mind. It was a beautifully
+clear evening, and we could see miles away across the darkening sea. I
+spent some time there with my companions, pointing out to each other
+the sites of scenes we all remembered so well. There were the
+trenches, already becoming indistinguishable, out of which, on the 8th
+of September, we had seen the storming parties tumble in confused and
+scattered bodies, before they ran up the broken height of the Redan.
+There the Malakhoff, into which we had also seen the luckier French
+pour in one unbroken stream; below lay the crumbling city and the
+quiet harbour, with scarce a ripple on its surface, while around
+stretched away the deserted huts for miles. It was with something like
+regret that we said to one another that the play was fairly over, that
+peace had rung the curtain down, and that we, humble actors in some of
+its most stirring scenes, must seek engagements elsewhere.
+
+I lingered behind, and stooping down, once more gathered little tufts
+of grass, and some simple blossoms from above the graves of some who
+in life had been very kind to me, and I left behind, in exchange, a
+few tears which were sincere.
+
+A few days latter, and I stood on board a crowded steamer, taking my
+last look of the shores of the Crimea.
+
+
+
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+I did not return to England by the most direct route, but took the
+opportunity of seeing more of men and manners in yet other lands.
+Arrived in England at last, we set to work bravely at Aldershott to
+retrieve our fallen fortunes, and stem off the ruin originated in the
+Crimea, but all in vain; and at last defeated by fortune, but not I
+think disgraced, we were obliged to capitulate on very honourable
+conditions. In plain truth, the old Crimean firm of Seacole and Day
+was dissolved finally, and its partners had to recommence the world
+anew. And so ended _our_ campaign. One of us started only the other
+day for the Antipodes, while the other is ready to take any journey to
+any place where a stout heart and two experienced hands may be of use.
+
+Perhaps it would be right if I were to express more shame and
+annoyance than I really feel at the pecuniarily disastrous issue of my
+Crimean adventures, but I cannot--I really cannot. When I would try
+and feel ashamed of myself for being poor and helpless, I only
+experience a glow of pride at the other and more pleasing events of my
+career; when I think of the few whom I failed to pay in full (and so
+far from blaming me some of them are now my firmest friends), I cannot
+help remembering also the many who profess themselves indebted to me.
+
+Let me, in as few words as possible, state the results of my Crimean
+campaign. To be sure, I returned from it shaken in health. I came home
+wounded, as many others did. Few constitutions, indeed, were the
+better for those winters before Sebastopol, and I was too hard worked
+not to feel their effects; for a little labour fatigues me now--I
+cannot watch by sick-beds as I could--a week's want of rest quite
+knocks me up now. Then I returned bankrupt in fortune. Whereas others
+in my position may have come back to England rich and prosperous, I
+found myself poor--beggared. So few words can tell what I have lost.
+
+But what have I gained? I should need a volume to describe that
+fairly; so much is it, and so cheaply purchased by suffering ten times
+worse than what I have experienced. I have more than once heard people
+say that they would gladly suffer illness to enjoy the delights of
+convalescence, and so, by enduring a few days' pain, gain the tender
+love of relatives and sympathy of friends. And on this principle I
+rejoice in the trials which have borne me such pleasures as those I
+now enjoy, for wherever I go I am sure to meet some smiling face;
+every step I take in the crowded London streets may bring me in
+contact with some friend, forgotten by me, perhaps, but who soon
+reminds me of our old life before Sebastopol; it seems very long ago
+now, when I was of use to him and he to me.
+
+Where, indeed, do I not find friends. In omnibuses, in river
+steamboats, in places of public amusement, in quiet streets and
+courts, where taking short cuts I lose my way oft-times, spring up old
+familiar faces to remind me of the months spent on Spring Hill. The
+sentries at Whitehall relax from the discharge of their important duty
+of guarding nothing to give me a smile of recognition; the very
+newspaper offices look friendly as I pass them by; busy Printing-house
+Yard puts on a cheering smile, and the _Punch_ office in Fleet Street
+sometimes laughs outright. Now, would all this have happened if I had
+returned to England a rich woman? Surely not.
+
+A few words more ere I bring these egotistical remarks to a close. It
+is naturally with feelings of pride and pleasure that I allude to the
+committee recently organized to aid me; and if I indulge in the vanity
+of placing their names before my readers, it is simply because every
+one of the following noblemen and gentlemen knew me in the Crimea, and
+by consenting to assist me now record publicly their opinion of my
+services there. And yet I may reasonably on other grounds be proud of
+the fact, that it has been stated publicly that my present
+embarrassments originated in my charities and incessant labours among
+the army, by
+
+    Major-General Lord Rokeby, K.C.B.
+    H.S.H. Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, C.B.
+    His Grace the Duke of Wellington.
+    His Grace the Duke of Newcastle.
+    The Right Hon. Lord Ward.
+    General Sir John Burgoyne, K.C.B.
+    Major-General Sir Richard Airey, K.C.B.
+    Rear-Admiral Sir Stephen Lushington, K.C.B.
+    Colonel M'Murdo, C.B.
+    Colonel Chapman, C.B.
+    Lieutenant-Colonel Ridley, C.B.
+    Major the Hon. F. Keane.
+    W. H. Russell, Esq. (_Times_ Correspondent).
+    W. T. Doyne, Esq.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+London: Printed by Thomas Harrild, 11, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Minor typographic errors have been corrected without note.
+
+Page 42--omitted 'I' added--"I must do them credit to say, that they
+were never loath ..."
+
+Page 94--omitted 'the' added--"... which is hired by the Government, at
+great cost ..."
+
+There are also a few Scots words in this text. These include 'waesome',
+meaning sorrowful, woeful; and 'brash', meaning attack. Some archaic
+spelling is also used (for example, secresy), which has been retained.
+
+The few oe ligatures have not been retained in this version.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole
+in Many Lands, by Mary Seacole
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MRS. SEACOLE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 23031.txt or 23031.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/2/3/0/3/23031/
+
+Produced by Suzanne Shell, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/23031.zip b/23031.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..595b5b3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/23031.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..18b6758
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #23031 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/23031)