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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Italian Cook Book
+       The Art of Eating Well
+
+Author: Maria Gentile
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2008 [EBook #24407]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Annie McGuire and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK
+
+  The Art of Eating Well
+
+  PRACTICAL RECIPES
+  OF THE
+  ITALIAN CUISINE
+
+  PASTRIES
+  SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES
+  AND SYRUPS
+
+  COMPILED BY
+  MRS. MARIA GENTILE
+
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+  NEW YORK
+
+  COPYRIGHT 1919
+  BY
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+One of the beneficial results of the Great War has been the teaching of
+thrift to the American housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons
+of economy, more attention has been bestowed upon the preparing and
+cooking of food that is to be at once palatable, nourishing and
+economical.
+
+In the Italian =cuisine= we find in the highest degree these three
+qualities. That it is palatable, all those who have partaken of food in
+an Italian =trattoria= or at the home of an Italian family can testify,
+that it is healthy the splendid manhood and womanhood of Italy is a
+proof more than sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the thriftiness
+of the Italian race, that it is economical?
+
+It has therefore been thought that a book of PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE
+ITALIAN CUISINE could be offered to the American public with hope of
+success. It is not a pretentious book, and the recipes have been made as
+clear and simple as possible. Some of the dishes described are not
+peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representative of the =Cucina
+Casalinga= of the peninsular Kingdom, which is not the least product
+of a lovable and simple people, among whom the art of living well and
+getting the most out of life at a moderate expense has been attained to
+a very high degree.
+
+
+
+
+1
+
+BROTH OR SOUP STOCK
+
+(Brodo)
+
+To obtain good broth the meat must be put in cold water, and then
+allowed to boil slowly. Add to the meat some pieces of bones and "soup
+greens" as, for instance, celery, carrots and parsley. To give a brown
+color to the broth, some sugar, first browned at the fire, then diluted
+in cold water, may be added.
+
+While it is not considered that the broth has much nutritive power, it
+is excellent to promote the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are
+made on a basis of broth.
+
+A good recipe for substantial broth to be used for invalids is the
+following: Cut some beef in thin slices and place them in a large
+saucepan; add some salt. Pour cold water upon them, so that they are
+entirely covered. Cover the saucepan so that it is hermetically closed
+and place on the cover a receptacle containing water, which must be
+constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire for six hours, then on a strong
+fire for ten minutes. Strain the liquid in cheese cloth.
+
+The soup stock, besides being used for soups, is a necessary ingredient
+in hundreds of Italian dishes.
+
+
+2
+
+SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI"
+
+This Soup is called of "=Cappelletti=" or "little hats" on account of
+the shape of the "=Cappelletti=".
+
+First a thin sheet of paste is made according to the following
+directions:
+
+The best and most tender paste is made simply of eggs, flour and salt,
+water may be substituted for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a
+less rich paste is needed. Allow about a cup of flour to an egg. Put the
+flour on a bread board, make a hollow in the middle and break in the
+egg. Use any extra whites that are on hand. Knead it thoroughly, adding
+more flour if necessary, until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll
+it as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling pin is necessary, but
+any stick, well scrubbed and sand papered, will serve in lieu of the
+long Italian rolling pin.
+
+Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring about three inches in
+diameter. In the middle of each circle place a spoonful of filling that
+must be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat (chicken, pork or veal)
+ground very fine and seasoned with grated cheese, grated lemon peel,
+nutmeg, allspice, salt. The ground meat is to be mixed with an equal
+amount of curds or cottage cheese.
+
+When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, fold the latter over
+and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to
+make it stay securely closed.
+
+These =cappelletti= should be cooked in chicken or beef broth until the
+paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.
+
+
+3
+
+BREAD SOUP
+
+(Panata)
+
+This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend for using the stale
+bread that must never again be thrown away. It is composed of bread
+crumbs and grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg (in very small
+quantity) and salt, all mixed together and put in broth previously
+prepared, which must be warm at the moment of the immersion, but not at
+the boiling point. Then place it on a low fire and stir gently. Any
+vegetable left over may be added.
+
+
+4
+
+GNOCCHI
+
+This is an excellent soup, but as it requires boiled or roast breast of
+chicken or turkey it is well to make it only when these ingredients are
+handy.
+
+Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes, the mealy kind being
+preferred. Mash the potatoes and mix them with chicken or turkey breast
+well ground, grated cheese (Parmesan or Swiss), two or more yolks of
+eggs, salt and a small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the compound on the
+bread board with a quantity of flour sufficient to make a paste and roll
+it in little sticks as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in
+little pieces about half an inch long and put them in boiling water.
+Five or six minutes' cooking will be sufficient.
+
+
+5
+
+VEGETABLE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Santé)
+
+Any kind of vegetables may be used for this soup: carrots, celery,
+cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of
+lettuce or greens of any variety.
+
+Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or chop coarsely cabbage
+or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over
+the fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter substitute, and
+let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook
+until the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in oil
+and serve them in the soup.
+
+
+6
+
+QUEEN'S SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Regina)
+
+This is made with the white meat of chicken, which is to be ground in a
+meat grinder together with blanched almonds (5 or 6) for one quart of
+chicken stock. To the meat and almond add some bread crumbs, first
+soaked in milk or broth, in the proportion of about one fifth of the
+quantity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be rubbed to a very
+smooth paste and hot broth is to be added to them. If you wish the soup
+to be richer and have a more milky consistency, use the yolk of an egg,
+which should be beaten, and have a few tablespoonfuls of hot broth
+stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil
+after the egg is added or it will curdle.
+
+One slice of stale bread may be cut into cubes, fried in deep fat, and
+the croutons put in the soup. Send it to the table with a dish of grated
+cheese.
+
+
+7
+
+BEAN SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di fagiuoli)
+
+One cup of dried beans, kidney, navy or lima is to be soaked over night.
+Then boil until tender. It is preferable to put the beans to cook in
+cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come to boil, pour off this
+water and add fresh.
+
+Chop fine 1/4 onion, one clove of garlic, one sprig of parsley and one
+piece of celery and put them to fry in 1/4 cup of oil with salt and a
+generous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add
+to them two cups of the broth from the beans and 1 cup of tomatoes
+(canned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the
+kettle of beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they
+are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a
+sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry toast make an
+excellent addition.
+
+The bean soup is made without meat or chicken broth, and it belongs
+consequently to that class of soup called by the Italians "=Minestra di
+Magro=" or "lean soup," to be served preferably on Friday and other days
+in which the Roman Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats.
+
+
+8
+
+LENTIL SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di lenticchie)
+
+The lentil soup is prepared in the same way as the bean soup, only
+substituting lentils for beans. A good combination is that of lentils
+and rice. The nutritive qualities of the lentils are not sufficiently
+known in this country, but all books on dietetics speak very highly of
+them.
+
+
+9
+
+VEGETABLE CHOWDER
+
+(Minestrone alla Milanese)
+
+Cut off the rind of 1/2 lb. salt pork and put it into two quarts of
+water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste
+with two or three sprigs of parsley, a little celery and one kernel of
+garlic. Add this paste to the pork and water. Slice two carrots, cut the
+rib out of the leaves of 1/4 medium sized cabbage. Add the carrots,
+cabbage leaves, other vegetables, seasoning and butter to the soup, and
+let it boil slowly for 2-1/2 hours. The last 1/2 hour add one small
+handful of rice for each person.
+
+When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put
+it back.
+
+The minestrone is equally good eaten cold.
+
+
+10
+
+RAVIOLI
+
+Put on the bread board about two pounds of flour in a heap; make a
+hollow in the middle and put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks,
+salt and three or four tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. Make a paste
+and knead it well, then let it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered
+with a linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, as thin as a
+ten-cent piece.
+
+Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled chicken meat: add to it an
+equal part of marrow from the bones of beef and pieces of brains, three
+yolks, some crumbs of bread soaked in milk or broth and some grated
+cheese (Parmesan or Swiss). Rub through a sieve and make little balls as
+big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at equal distances (a little
+more than an inch) in a line over the sheet of paste.
+
+Beat a whole egg and pass it over the paste with a brush all around the
+little balls. Cover these with another sheet of paste, press down the
+intervals between each ball, and then separate each section from the
+other with a knife. Moisten the edges of each section with the finger
+dipped in cold water, to make them stick together, and press them down
+with the fingers or the prongs of a fork. Then put to boil in water
+seasoned with salt or, better still, in broth. The ravioli are then to
+be served hot seasoned with cheese and butter or with brown stock or
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+11
+
+PAVESE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa alla Pavese)
+
+Cut as many thin slices of bread as are needed in order that each person
+may have at least two of them. These slices are then to be toasted and
+browned with butter. Poach two eggs for each person, one on each slice
+of bread and place the slices on a large and deep dish (not in a soup
+tureen). Pour hot broth in the plate, taking care not to break the eggs,
+season with Parmesan or Swiss cheese, and serve.
+
+
+
+
+PASTE
+
+SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC.
+
+(Pasta Asciutta)
+
+The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni at the beginning of the
+meal, in place of soup, and they give it the name of =Minestra Asciutta=
+or "dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the paste is served in
+many other forms and with different seasoning. This is by far the most
+popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleased the taste of all the
+peoples of the earth. The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of
+cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been recognized by all diet
+authorities and, as for its palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are
+just as enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as within the
+boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for
+spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The
+description of these three condiments follows:
+
+
+12
+
+TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Salsa di Pomidoro)
+
+Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, a piece
+of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and just enough
+parsley. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up seven or
+eight tomatoes and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from
+time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard
+strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.
+
+When fresh tomatoes are not available the tomato paste may be used. This
+is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be
+had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities.
+Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes.
+Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes
+as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes seasoned with
+salt and a bit of bay leaf, can always be used instead of fresh
+tomatoes.
+
+This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to
+dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with
+butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see
+Risotto). Mushrooms are a fine addition to it.
+
+When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to
+give good results:
+
+Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: form a little bunch of
+parsley and other aromatic greens and put everything to brown in a
+saucepan together with a piece of butter. Add a reasonable portion of
+tomato paste while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce
+assumes the necessary consistency.
+
+
+13
+
+BROWN STOCK
+
+(Sugo di Carne)
+
+Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of beef taken from a
+juicy cut and small pieces of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one
+carrot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small pieces. Add some
+butter and cover the whole with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and
+any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and cloves. Put over
+the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown,
+turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of water,
+renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of
+boiling water or, better still, of broth, and let it boil gently five or
+six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on
+top of the liquid.
+
+The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or =Croquettes=. The stock
+may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.
+
+
+14
+
+ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Salsa d'Acciughe)
+
+This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for =hors
+d'oeuvre=, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to
+be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty
+of water. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for
+use.
+
+Put five or six anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into boiling
+water to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop
+them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of oil
+and some pepper. Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two
+tablespoons of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated
+tomato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing through a
+sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled
+in water that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let
+them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be
+sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.
+
+
+15
+
+SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE
+
+(Pasta al burro e formaggio)
+
+This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti may be served, and it
+is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be
+boiled until tender in salted water, taking care to remove them when
+tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into
+the water until this is at a boiling point.
+
+Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
+served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so
+desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning
+them around the fork and eating them =is not the privilege of
+everybody=. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil twelve
+to fifteen minutes, or until the macaroni is perfectly soft. Stir
+frequently to prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it
+into a colander to drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with a
+generous quantity of butter and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked,
+it can be brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to
+it.
+
+The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a name designating size, not
+quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with butter and
+cheese.
+
+
+16
+
+MACARONI WITH SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni al sugo)
+
+The most appreciated kind of macaroni are those seasoned with tomato
+sauce or with brown stock (see nos. 12 and 13). The macaroni are boiled
+as above, then drained in a colander, returned to the saucepan and mixed
+with the sauce and grated cheese. For those who like it some butter may
+be added in the mixing.
+
+
+17
+
+MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe)
+
+After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to be put into the hot dish
+in which it is to be served and the anchovy sauce poured over it and
+well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce has gone all through
+it. Some olive oil may be added, but grated cheese is not generally used
+with the anchovy sauce.
+
+
+18
+
+MACARONI A LA CORINNA
+
+(Maccheroni alla Corinna)
+
+Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of salted water to which add a
+small piece of butter. When it begins to boil put in it 3/4 lb.
+macaroni. Let it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a colander.
+Put them again in new boiling water, prepared as above and let them cook
+on a slow fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of a plate with
+macaroni and cover this first layer with grated cheese and with some
+vegetables in macédoine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown with
+butter. Repeat the draining, moisten the macaroni with the water in
+which they have previously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten minutes
+more.
+
+The =Macédoine= of vegetables can be made with a dozen Bruxelles sprouts
+or one cabbage, half a dozen big asparagus cut in little pieces, a
+carrot cut in thin slices, a dozen small onions, some turnips and half a
+dozen mushrooms. The mushrooms and the asparagus can be omitted. Melt
+some butter in a saucepan and when the turnips, the carrots and the
+onions are half cooked, add the cabbage or sprouts. Put in some water
+and some more butter, boil for ten minutes and then add the mushrooms
+and the asparagus, adding salt and pepper, and a little sugar if this is
+desired.
+
+
+19
+
+MACARONI "AU GRATIN"
+
+(Maccheroni al gratin)
+
+Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender and drain them. Butter
+slightly a fireproof casserole and lay on the bottom some grated cheese
+and grated bread. Alternate the layers of cheese with macaroni and on
+the top layer of macaroni put more cheese and bread grated. Over the
+whole pour some melted butter, cover the casserole, (or =pyrex= plate)
+and put it in the oven with a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more,
+until the top appears browned.
+
+
+20
+
+MACARONI NAPOLITAINE
+
+(Maccheroni alla Napoletana)
+
+Grind 1/4 lb. salt pork or bacon and fry it out in a saucepan. While it
+is frying put one small onion through the grinder. As soon as the pork
+begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chopped, a clove (or small
+section) of garlic shredded fine, and a few dried mushrooms which have
+been softened by soaking in warm water. When the vegetables are very
+brown (great care must be taken not to burn the onion, which scorches
+very easily) add 1/2 lb. round steak ground coarsely or cut up in little
+cubes. When the meat is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned
+tomatoes or half a tablespoonful of tomato paste and simmer slowly until
+all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take 3/4
+hour. The sauce may be bound together with a little flour if it shows a
+tendency to separate.
+
+This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and spaghetti, also
+for boiled rice (see Risotto). The macaroni or spaghetti should be left
+unbroken when cooked. If they are too long to fit in the kettle immerse
+one end in the boiling salted water and in a very few minutes the ends
+of the spaghetti under the water will become softened so that the rest
+can be pushed down into the kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and
+it will not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in
+a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it and pour
+on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed.
+
+
+21
+
+MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL
+
+(Maccheroni all'olio)
+
+After the macaroni have boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan in
+which some good olive oil has already boiled, with a clove of garlic
+chopped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it doesn't stick to
+the bottom of the saucepan, and when it is well browned on one side,
+turn it to have the other side browned. Serve the macaroni very hot. Add
+no cheese.
+
+
+22
+
+RISOTTO MILANAISE
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese)
+
+Melt a small piece of butter in a saucepan. Brown in the butter a medium
+sized onion, cut in thin slices. When the onion is browned, take it away
+from the saucepan and add little by little the rice, stirring it with a
+wooden spoon. Every time that the rice becomes dry, add some hot broth
+(or hot water) until the rice is completely cooked. Add salt and pepper
+and a little saffron, if you like it.
+
+When the rice is almost cooked, add to it some brown stock. Dress with
+parmesan cheese and some butter. Mix well and serve hot. This dish must
+not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled before eating.
+
+
+23
+
+RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese II)
+
+The broth for this risotto may be made by cooking together the giblets,
+neck and tips of wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it may be
+made from the left-overs of roast fowl.
+
+Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. Then let the
+water cook away and begin adding the broth, in such quantity that the
+rice will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chopped onion in the
+oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut up small are a very good addition to this
+"=Soffritto=". Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir the
+mixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten egg just as the
+rice is taken from the fire.
+
+
+24
+
+(Risotto con piselli)
+
+Wash and dry 1-1/2 lb. rice; chop fine one medium sized onion and put it
+on the fire with a small quantity of butter.
+
+When the onion is well browned, add the rice little by little, stirring
+with a wooden spoon. Add some boiling water one cup at a time. Drain the
+peas previously prepared (fresh or canned peas may be used) and add them
+toward the end of the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, add some
+salt and take it away from the water almost dry. Add some butter, stir
+and serve hot.
+
+
+25
+
+RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER
+
+(Risotto coi gamberi)
+
+For this risotto either lobster or crab meat can be used: the former is,
+however, considered more tasty. The lobster or crab meat ought to be
+about half the weight of the rice employed. A little more than a pound
+of rice and half this weight of crab meat ought to be enough for six
+persons.
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, one carrot, half an
+onion a clove of garlic and brown the whole in good olive oil. When
+browned, add the crab meat and season with salt and pepper. During the
+cooking process stir and turn over the crabs, and when they have become
+red, pour over as much hot water as is necessary to cook the rice.
+
+After the water boils for a while, remove the lobster (or crab, or
+craw-fish) leaving the saucepan on the fire. Put half of the crabs
+aside, and grind the rest. Rub the ground meat through the sieve and put
+it back on the fire. In another saucepan melt some butter and put into
+it little by little the rice that has been washed and dried. Stir and
+add the broth from the first saucepan. When the rice is almost cooked
+add the craw-fish that you have put aside, or rather its meat extracted
+from the shells, take from the fire and pour over it the fish mixture,
+adding some grated cheese.
+
+
+26
+
+RICE WITH SAFFRON
+
+(Riso alla Milanese con Zafferano)
+
+Wash and dry the rice and put it in boiling broth (beef or chicken
+broth). When the rice is half cooked add half its weight of marrow of
+beef bone, cut into small pieces. A few minutes are sufficient for the
+cooking of the marrow. Add grated cheese and remove the kettle from the
+fire.
+
+Dissolve some saffron in one or two tablespoonfuls of broth; sift it
+through a sieve and mix with rice, which is to be served very hot, and
+makes an excellent soup.
+
+
+27
+
+RICE CAKES
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook the rice in milk, adding a small quantity of butter, some salt,
+half a teaspoon of sugar and just a taste of lemon peel. Let the rice
+cool down after being thoroughly cooked, then add three yolks of eggs
+(for 1/4 lb. of rice) and some flour. Mix well and let the whole rest
+for several hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the eggs to a
+froth, add to the rice mixing slowly, and put into the saucepan with a
+ladle.
+
+
+28
+
+FRIED ARTICHOKE
+
+(Carciofi fritti)
+
+Take two artichokes, cut out the hard part of the leaves and of the
+stalk, cut them in two. Then cut these halves into section or slices so
+as to have eight or ten for each artichoke, according to size. As you
+cut them, throw them into cold water and when they are well washed, dry
+them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once into the flour so that
+the latter remains attached to it. Beat the white of an egg, but not to
+a froth, then mix the yolk with the white and salt the whole. Shake out
+the artichokes to take away the superfluous flour and then put them in
+the egg, leaving them for a while so that the egg may be attached to
+them.
+
+Throw the pieces one by one into the pan where there is boiling fat,
+butter or olive oil, and when they are well browned, take them away and
+serve with lemon. If it is desired that the artichokes remain white, it
+is better to fry them in oil and to squeeze half lemon into the water
+where the artichokes are put to soften.
+
+
+29
+
+STEAMED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi a vapore)
+
+Artichokes have been only recently imported to the United States,
+principally by Italian farmers, and they are just beginning to find
+their way into the American kitchen. The artichokes may be eaten raw or
+cooked. It is a healthy and palatable vegetable, easily digested when
+cooked. It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It may be
+prepared in a thousand ways, and here follow some of the simplest and
+most tasteful.
+
+To prepare the steamed artichokes they must first be cleaned and the
+stalk cut to less than half an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on
+their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch or more of water. In
+an opening made in the middle put salt and pepper, and pour inside as
+much good olive oil as they may contain. Cover well the saucepan and put
+it on the fire. The artichokes, that are already seasoned, will be
+cooked by the steam.
+
+
+30
+
+STEWED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi in stufato)
+
+Wash the artichokes and cut the hard part of the leaves (the top). Widen
+the leaves and insert a hash composed of bread crumbs, parsley, salt,
+pepper and oil. Place the artichokes in the saucepan standing on their
+stalk, one touching the other. Cover them with water and let them cook
+for two hours or more. When the leaves are easily detached they are
+cooked.
+
+
+31
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER
+
+(Carciofi al burro)
+
+Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of as many artichokes as are
+needed. Cut them in two or four and boil them in salt water. When
+tender, drain them, have them slightly browned in melted butter and
+season with salt and pepper.
+
+When served in a vegetable dish or placed in a pyramid on a round plate,
+sprinkle with grated cheese.
+
+
+32
+
+FRIED SQUASH
+
+(Zucchine fritte)
+
+The squashes used by Italians for frying and other purposes are very
+small, and for this reason they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes.
+They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian vegetable dealers that
+are now to be found in large number in most American cities and,
+invariably, in Italian neighborhoods during the summer season. The
+"Zucchine" are an extremely tasty vegetable and they are especially good
+when fried.
+
+Select the squashes that are long and thin: wash them cut them in little
+strips less than half an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the
+interior and salt moderately. Leave them aside for an hour or two, then
+drain them but don't dry them. Put them in flour and rub gently in a
+sieve to take away the superfluous flour: immediately after put them in
+a saucepan where there is already oil, fat or butter boiling. At the
+beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking, and only when they have
+become a little hardened stir them and remove when they begin to be
+browned.
+
+
+33
+
+LAMB OMELET
+
+(Agnello in frittata)
+
+Cut in little pieces a loin of lamb, which is the part that lends itself
+best for this dish, and fry in lard: a little quantity of lard is
+sufficient, because the meat of the loins is rather fat. When half
+cooked season with salt and pepper and when fully cooked pour over four
+or five whole eggs slightly beaten also seasoned moderately with salt
+and pepper. Mix, taking care that the eggs do not harden.
+
+
+34
+
+FRIED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo fritto)
+
+Wash a spring chicken and keep in boiling water for one minute. Cut into
+pieces at the joints, roll them in flour, season with salt and pepper
+and dip in two whole beaten eggs. After leaving the pieces of chicken
+for half an hour, roll them in bread crumbs, repeating the operation
+twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with boiling oil or fat, seeing
+that the pieces of chicken are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire
+low. Serve hot with lemon.
+
+
+35
+
+CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA
+
+(Pollo alla cacciatora)
+
+Chop one large onion and keep it for more than half an hour in cold
+water, then dry it and brown it aside. Cut up a chicken, sprinkle the
+pieces with flour, salt and pepper and sauté, in the fat which remains
+in the frying pan. When the chicken is brown add one pint fresh or
+canned tomatoes and half a dozen sweet green peppers and put back the
+onion. When the gravy is thick enough add hot water to prevent the
+burning of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the
+chicken is very tender. This is an excellent way to cook tough chickens.
+Fowls which have been boiled may be cooked in this way, but of course
+young and tender chickens will have the finer flavor.
+
+
+36
+
+CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta con salsicce)
+
+Cook in water one cup of yellow cornmeal making a stiff mush. Salt it
+well and when it is cooked spread out to cool on a bread board about
+half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small squares.
+
+Put in a saucepan several whole sausages with a little water, and when
+they are cooked skin and crush them and add some brown stock or tomato
+sauce.
+
+Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fireproof receptacle, season
+with grated cheese, the crushed sausages and a piece of butter. Put it
+in the oven and serve when hot.
+
+
+37
+
+POLENTA PIE
+
+(Polenta Pasticciata)
+
+Make a very stiff mush of cornmeal cooked in milk. Salt it well and
+spread out on the bread board in a sheet about one inch thick. When
+cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place these in a buttered
+baking dish. Prepare the =Bolognese sauce= according to the following
+recipe: Chop 1/4 lb. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon, one small
+carrot 1/4 onion, one large piece celery. Put the meat and vegetables
+over the fire with a piece of butter. When the meat has browned add half
+a tablespoon of flour and wet the mixture with hot water or broth,
+allowing it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when it
+is the consistency of a thick gravy.
+
+Make a smooth white sauce with milk cornstarch and butter. Over a layer
+of the polenta, cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprinkle
+some grated cheese and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce and the
+meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is nicely
+browned. This dish seems very elaborate, but it is very delicious and a
+meal in itself.
+
+The Bolognese sauce is also used to season macaroni or spaghetti in lieu
+of the tomato sauce or the brown stock.
+
+
+38
+
+STUFFED ROLLS
+
+(Pagnottelle ripiene)
+
+Take some rolls, and by means of a round opening on the top, as large as
+a half dollar piece or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the
+crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and outside with hot milk,
+and when they are fairly soaked, dip in beaten eggs and fry them in lard
+or oil. When beginning to brown, fill them with meat that has been
+previously chopped and cooked. This chopped meat ought to be made with
+breast of chicken, chicken giblets, liver etc., brown stock and some
+flour to hold it together.
+
+
+39
+
+STEWED VEAL
+
+(Stracotto di vitella)
+
+The stock from this dish may very well be used to season macaroni or
+boiled rice. Care must be taken, however, not to draw away all the
+juice of the meat in order to have a sauce too rich at the expense of
+the principal dish.
+
+Place in a saucepan one pound of veal or more, bone included, a piece of
+butter or some olive oil (or the two together) half a medium sized
+onion, one small carrot, two celery stalks cut in small pieces. Season
+with salt and pepper. Put it on a low fire, turn the meat over often and
+when browned add a pinch of flour and some tomato paste, bringing it to
+full cooking with water poured little by little. The flour is used to
+keep the sauce together and give it color, but care must be taken not to
+burn it, because in that case the sauce would have an unpleasant taste
+and a black, instead of a reddish color. The addition of dried
+mushrooms, previously softened in the water and slightly boiled in the
+sauce will add greatly to its taste.
+
+As has been said the sauce can well be used to season spaghetti or
+risotto. The stewed veal can be served with some vegetable.
+
+
+40
+
+CHICKEN BONED AND STUFFED
+
+(Pollo dissossato ripieno)
+
+To remove the bones from a chicken the following instructions will be
+found useful.
+
+Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head and legs, and remove the
+tendons. When a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning
+is not difficult, but it requires practice. The skin must not be broken.
+Use a small pointed knife cut the skin down the full length of the back;
+then, beginning at the neck, carefully scrape the meat away from the
+bone, keeping the knife close to the bone. When the joints of the wings
+and legs are met, break them back and proceed to free the meat from the
+carcass. When one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the
+other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care
+must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the meat is
+free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs and wings, turning
+the meat down or inside out, as the bones are exposed, and using care
+not to break the skin at the joints. The end bones of the wing cannot be
+removed, and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.
+
+Now that the fowl is boned make the following stuffing, regulating the
+quantity on the size of the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean
+veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may make a paste. Add a large
+piece of bread crumb soaked in broth, a tablespoon of grated cheese,
+three yolks of egg, salt, pepper and, if desired, just a taste of
+nutmeg. Finally mix also one or two slices of ham and tongue, cut in
+small pieces. Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up the
+opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to cook in water on a low
+fire. When taken from the water, remove the wrapping and brown it, first
+with butter, then in a sauce made in the following way: Break all the
+bones that have been extracted from the chicken, the head and neck
+included, and put them on the fire with dried meat cut in little pieces,
+butter, onion, celery and carrot, seasoned with salt and pepper. Make
+the sauce with the water in which the chicken has been boiled, which has
+naturally become a good chicken broth.
+
+Before sending to the table, remove the thread with which the chicken
+has been sewed.
+
+
+41
+
+CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES
+
+(Pollo alla contadina)
+
+Take a young chicken and make some little holes in the skin in which you
+will put some sprigs of rosemary and a clove of garlic cut into five or
+six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped lard and season with salt
+and pepper inside and outside. When it is well browned on all parts add
+tomatoes cut in pieces, taking care to remove previously all the seeds.
+Moisten with broth or water. Brown some potatoes in oil, fat or butter,
+previously cutting them into sections. When browned dip in the sauce of
+the chicken and serve the whole together.
+
+
+42
+
+CHICKEN WITH SHERRY
+
+(Pollo al marsala)
+
+Cut the chicken in big pieces and put it in the saucepan with one medium
+sized onion chopped fine and a piece of butter. Season with salt and
+pepper and, when it is well browned, add some broth and complete the
+cooking. Remove the excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through a
+sieve or otherwise, and put the chicken back on the fire with a glass of
+Sherry or Marsala wine, removing it from the fire as soon as the sauce
+begins to boil.
+
+
+43
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Pollo colle salsicce)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter
+and four or five slices of ham, half an inch wide. Over these
+ingredients place a whole chicken, season with pepper and a little salt
+and place on the fire. Brown it on all sides and, when the onion is all
+melted, add water or broth and three or four sausages freshly made. Let
+it cook on a low fire, seeing that the sauce remains liquid and does not
+dry up.
+
+
+44
+
+CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Pollo in salsa d'uova)
+
+Break into pieces a young chicken and put it in the saucepan with a
+piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper. When it is half browned
+sprinkle with a pinch of flour to give it color, then complete the
+cooking with broth. Remove it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat
+the yolk of one egg with the piece of half a lemon and pour it on the
+sauce of the chicken, allowing it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour
+on the chicken and serve hot.
+
+
+45
+
+CHICKEN BREASTS SAUTÉS
+
+(Petti di pollo alla sauté)
+
+Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, give them the best
+possible shape and make a whole piece from the little pieces that will
+remain, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and mixing these. Season
+with salt and pepper and dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for
+a few hours. Sprinkle with bread crumbs ground fine and sauté in butter.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+If you want this dish more elaborate prepare a sauce in the following
+way: Put some good olive oil in a frying pan, just enough to cover the
+bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of dry mushrooms. Sprinkle over
+a small quantity of grated cheese and some bread crumbs. Repeat the same
+operation three or four times, according to the quantity, and finally
+season with olive oil, salt and pepper and small pieces of butter. Put
+the pan over the fire and when it has begun to boil pour a small cup of
+brown stock or broth and a little lemon juice. Remove the same from the
+fire and pour it on the chicken breast that have been browned as
+described above.
+
+
+46
+
+WILD DUCK
+
+(Anitra selvatica)
+
+Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and
+legs. Chop fine a thick slice of ham with both lean and fat together,
+with a moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and half medium sized
+onion. Put the chopped ham and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck
+on the whole, seasoning with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides and add
+water to complete the cooking.
+
+Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and afterward allowed to complete
+the cooking in the sauce obtained from the duck, form a good addition.
+
+To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild duck, either wash it in
+vinegar before cooking or scald it in boiling water.
+
+
+47
+
+STEWED SQUABS
+
+(Piccioni in umido)
+
+Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves and place them in a saucepan
+over a bed of small slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season
+with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire and when they begin
+to be browned, add a piece of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
+in some good broth. Before removing from the fire squeeze one lemon over
+them and garnish with squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care
+not to add too much salt on account of the ham and the broth both
+containing salt.
+
+=Note=--Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with broth.
+When meat broth is not available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes
+or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, however, always preferable to
+use broth made with fresh meat.
+
+
+48
+
+RAGOUT OF SQUABS
+
+(Manicaretto di piccione)
+
+Cut two or more squabs at the joints, preferably in four parts each, and
+put them on the fire with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a bunch
+of parsley. When they begin to dry, add some broth and--before they are
+completely cooked--their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut in slices.
+Continue pouring in broth and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire.
+Add another piece of butter over which some flour has been sprinkled, or
+flour alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and
+squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs.
+
+Some sweetbread may be added with good effect, but it must be first
+scalded and the skin removed.
+
+
+49
+
+SQUAB TIMBALE
+
+(Timballo di piccioni)
+
+Chop together some ham, onion, celery and carrot, add a piece of butter
+and place on the fire with one or two squabs, according to the number of
+guests. Add the giblets from the squabs and some more of chicken, if at
+hand. Season with salt and pepper, and when the pigeons are browned,
+pour over some broth to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that
+the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it
+some macaroni that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni
+in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced Béchamel
+sauce, then cut the squabs at the joints, removing the neck, the legs
+and the bones of the back, when you would not bone them entirely, which
+would be better. Cut the giblets in small pieces and remove the soft
+part of the onion.
+
+When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, season them with grated
+cheese, pieces of butter, diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg
+and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Add
+finally the Béchamel sauce and mix the whole.
+
+Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft pastry.
+Put everything in the mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry
+and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters
+of a pound of macaroni and two pigeons are enough for ten persons.
+
+
+50
+
+SALMI OF GAME
+
+(Uccelli in salmi)
+
+Roast the game completely, seasoning with salt and pepper. If the game
+be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove
+all the heads and grind them together with some pieces of birds, or some
+whole little birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter one
+half pound of bacon or ham cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one
+tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, one tablespoonful each
+of salt, thyme and sage. Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour
+then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted game. Make it
+boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of
+bread.
+
+
+51
+
+STEWED HARE
+
+(Stufato di lepre)
+
+Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting it in pieces, chop
+fine one medium sized onion, one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and
+several leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some pieces of butter,
+two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and four or five strips of bacon or salt
+pork, when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the
+pieces of hare inside the saucepan and season them with salt, pepper and
+spices. When it is browned, put a wineglass of white wine, some fresh
+mushrooms, or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Complete the
+cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if necessary, add another piece
+of butter.
+
+
+52
+
+STEWED RABBIT
+
+(Coniglio in umido)
+
+After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large pieces and put it on
+the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry,
+put in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and a hash
+composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of corned beef
+and some onion, celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
+Stir often and when it is browned add some tomato sauce and another
+piece of butter.
+
+
+53
+
+GREEN SAUCE
+
+(Salsa verde)
+
+Chop all together some capers that have been in vinegar, one anchovy, a
+small slice of onion and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting
+hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of
+parsley, chopped together with some leaves of basil and dissolve the
+whole in very good olive oil and lemon juice.
+
+This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or
+hard boiled eggs.
+
+Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.
+
+
+54
+
+WHITE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa bianca)
+
+This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The
+ingredients are 1/4 lb. of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a
+tablespoonful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, broth or water
+in sufficient quantity.
+
+Put first on the fire the flour with half the butter and when it begins
+to be browned pour over it the broth or the water little by little,
+stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the butter and the
+vinegar without making the water boil too much. When taken off the fire
+add the yolk of the egg, stir and serve.
+
+
+55
+
+YELLOW SAUCE
+
+(Salsa gialla)
+
+This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities
+indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish
+weighing about a pound.
+
+Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of flour and two
+ounces of butter, and when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it
+little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that is to say of the
+water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the flour
+does not rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce from the flour
+and pour over two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the yolk of an egg,
+stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a lemon
+and season generously with salt and pepper. Let it cool and then pour
+over the fish that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.
+
+This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too
+liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.
+
+
+56
+
+SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
+
+(Salsa per pesce in gratella)
+
+This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted anchovies, olive oil and
+lemon juice. Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every
+hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. Bone the anchovies and
+rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and
+dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it like a cream. Cover
+with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve
+aside in a gravy boat.
+
+
+57
+
+CAPER SAUCE
+
+(Salsa con capperi)
+
+This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are
+for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
+of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar one teaspoonful of
+flour, salt, pepper and vinegar.
+
+Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce.
+Put on the fire the flour with half of the butter, mix it and when it
+begins to take color, add the remaining butter.
+
+Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the broth of the fish:
+season generously with salt and pepper and take the saucepan from the
+fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some
+drops of vinegar, but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant
+to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.
+
+It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used
+together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and
+should be partaken of sparingly.
+
+
+58
+
+GENOVESE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa genovese)
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of garlic. Then mix with
+some capers soaked in vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
+pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, soaked in vinegar.
+Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive
+oil, dosing right by tasting.
+
+
+59
+
+BALSAMELLA SAUCE
+
+(Salsa balsamella)
+
+This sauce resembles the famous French Béchamel Sauce, but it is simpler
+in its composition.
+
+Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour and a piece of butter as
+big as an egg. Stir the flour and the butter together while keeping them
+over the fire. When the flour begins to be browned, pour over a pint of
+milk, continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid
+condensed like a cream. This is the =Balsamella=. If it is too thick add
+some milk, if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of
+butter dipped in flour.
+
+A good =Balsamella= and some well prepared brown stock are the base and
+the principal secret of many savory dishes.
+
+
+60
+
+CURLED OMELET
+
+(Frittata in riccioli)
+
+Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat two eggs,
+season with salt and pepper and mix with them enough spinach to make the
+eggs appear green. Put the frying pan on the fire with only enough oil
+to grease it and when very hot put in a portion of the eggs, moving the
+frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. When well cooked, remove it
+from the frying pan and repeat the operation once or twice in order to
+have two or three very thin omelets. Put these one over the other and
+cut them in small strips that are to be browned in butter adding a
+little grated cheese. These strips of omelet, resembling noodles, form a
+tasty and attractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or a similar
+dish.
+
+
+61
+
+VEAL KIDNEY OMELET
+
+(Frittata di rognone di vitella)
+
+Take a veal kidney, open it lengthwise and leave all its fat. Season
+with oil, salt and pepper, broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough
+eggs in proportion to the size of the kidney, season them with salt and
+pepper, both in moderate quantity and mix with them a sprig of parsley
+and some grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney in the eggs, mix all
+together and make an omelet with some butter.
+
+
+62
+
+PUFF PASTE
+
+(Pasta sfoglia)
+
+The =Pasta sfoglia= is not too difficult to make and if the following
+instructions are carefully followed, this fine and light paste can
+easily be prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll it on but
+this is not absolutely necessary. A warm, damp day is not favorable for
+the making of the =Pasta sfoglia=, which succeeds better when the
+weather is cold and dry.
+
+Mix half a pound of flour of the very best quality with a piece of
+butter as big as a walnut, some warm, but not hot water, enough salt and
+a teaspoonful of good brandy. When the paste is formed knead it well for
+about half an hour, first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly
+with force against the bread board. Make a cake of a rectangular form,
+wrap it in cloth and let it rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the
+hand 1/2 lb. of butter that has been kept previously on ice or, better,
+in a bowl of ice-water, until it becomes smooth and flexible, then make
+of it a little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a bowl of
+cold water. When the dough has rested take the butter from the water,
+wipe it with a cloth and dip it in flour.
+
+Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary to enclose within the
+cake of butter. This is placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet
+of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fingers moistened in a
+little water so that no air remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first
+with the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the sheet as thin as
+possible, but taking care that the butter does not come out. If this
+happens throw at once a little flour where the butter appears and always
+have the marble slab (or bread board) and the rolling pin sprinkled with
+flour. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste, and again roll
+the folded strip, repeating the operation six times and letting the
+paste rest from time to time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold
+it in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness that is, about one
+third of an inch. After each folding press the edges gently with the
+rolling pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to roll in a
+different direction.
+
+When the paste has had six turns cut it into the desired forms and put
+on ice, or in a cold place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting
+it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the
+bottom.
+
+The puff paste is used for paté shells and vol-au-vent cake and for
+light pastries of all kinds.
+
+
+63
+
+PASTE FOR FRYING
+
+(Pastella per fritto)
+
+Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with two teaspoonfuls of oil. Add two
+eggs, a pinch of salt, and mix well. This mixture will take on the
+aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze fried brains, sweetbreads
+and the like. All these things are first to be scalded in boiling salt
+water. Add a pinch of salt and one of pepper when taking from the water.
+The brains, sweetbreads etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces,
+thrown into the paste, or cream, described above and fried in oil or
+good lard.
+
+In frying these are often united to liver or veal cutlets. The liver
+must be cut in very thin slices and the cutlets beaten with the side of
+a big knife and given a good shape. Season with salt and pepper, dip in
+beaten egg and after a few hours sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+
+64
+
+CHICKEN STUFFING
+
+(Ripieno di pollo)
+
+The ingredients are 1/4 lb. lean veal or pork or breast of turkey and
+chicken giblets. Cook this meat together with a little hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot and butter. Season with salt pepper and spices,
+moistening it with broth. Take dry from the fire, take off the soft
+parts of the giblets, add a few dry mushrooms softened in water, a
+little slice of lean fat ham and chop everything fine. Into the sauce
+that has remained from the cooking throw enough breadcrumbs to make a
+tablespoonful of hard soaked bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a
+pinch of grated cheese and two eggs and fill the chicken with all this,
+sewing up the opening afterwards. The chicken can be boiled or stewed.
+If boiled you will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention when
+cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing in one piece in order to
+slice it.
+
+
+65
+
+MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT
+
+(Ripieno di carne per pasticcini di pasta sfoglia)
+
+This stuffing can be made either with stewed veal or chicken giblets or
+sweetbreads. The latter are preferable, being more delicate and a taste
+of truffles greatly improves the stuffing. If sweetbreads are used, put
+them on the fire with a piece of butter and season with salt and pepper.
+When they have begun to take color, complete the cooking with some brown
+stock, then cut them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or two
+spoons of =Balsamella= (see No. 54) a little tongue, one or two slices
+of ham cut in little squares, a pinch of grated cheese and a taste of
+nutmeg, seeing that the ingredients are in such quantities as to make
+the mixture tasty and delicate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it
+hardens and can be worked better.
+
+In order to enclose it in paté shells made with puff-paste (see No. 57)
+there are two ways. One is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing,
+the other to fill them after they are cooked. In the first case put the
+stuffing in the prepared disk of paste, moisten the edge with a wet
+finger, cover with another disk of paste and cook. In the second case,
+which is more convenient because the shells can be prepared one day
+before, the two disks are put together without the stuffing, but in the
+upper disk a circular cut must be made as large as a half dollar coin.
+The paté on cooking swells and leaves an empty space in the interior.
+Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle above, which has the
+form of a cover, the interior space can be made larger, filled with the
+stuffing and covered with the little cover. In this way it is enough to
+warm them before sending to the table. The puff-paste must always be
+glazed with the yolk of eggs.
+
+If a large vol-au-vent is to be filled instead of little paté-shells, a
+ragout of chicken giblets and sweetbread, cut in large pieces, is
+better.
+
+
+66
+
+PORK LIVER FRIED
+
+(Fegato di maiale fritto)
+
+Cut in to thin slices some pork liver, sprinkle with flour and fry in
+good lard. It must be served with its sauce. Squeeze in a lemon while it
+is frying.
+
+
+67
+
+FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE
+
+(Fritto composto alla Bolognese)
+
+Take a piece of stewed lean veal, a little brain boiled or stewed, and a
+slice of ham. Chop and grind everything fine. Add a yolk of egg or a
+whole egg, according to the quantity, and a little =Balsamella= (see No.
+54). Put the hash on the fire and stir until the egg is cooked. Add
+finally grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have them, some
+truffles chopped very fine and put in a plate. When quite cold make some
+little balls as large as a walnut and roll them in flour. Then dip in
+beaten egg and bread crumb ground very fine, repeating the operation
+twice, and fry.
+
+
+68
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+(Fritto alla Romana)
+
+I.
+
+Put on the fire a hash of onion and butter and when it is well browned
+cook in it a piece of lean veal seasoned with salt and pepper. When the
+meat begins to brown put in a little sherry wine to complete the
+cooking.
+
+Pound the whole to soften it a little using the sauce remained and if
+this is not enough add some broth and finally the yolk of an egg. See
+that the whole is not softened too much.
+
+Now take some wafers, not too thin and cut them in squares similar to
+those used by druggists. Beat one egg and the white from the other egg,
+then take a wafer, dip it in the egg and place it on a layer of bread
+crumbs ground fine. On the wafer put a little ball of the compound
+above, then dip another wafer in the egg, make it touch the bread crumbs
+only from the part that remains outside, and with this cover the
+compound attaching it to the lower wafer. Sprinkle again with bread
+crumbs if necessary and put the piece aside repeating the operation
+until all the meat is disposed of. Cook in oil or fat and serve with
+lemon.
+
+With half a pound of meat about twenty filled wafers should be obtained.
+
+
+69
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+II.
+
+This can be made when you happen to have some breast of roast chicken
+left over. Some chicken breast, two or three slices of tongue and ham,
+one tablespoonful of grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, are the
+ingredients used. Remove the skin of the chicken and cut it as well as
+the tongue and the ham, into little cubes. Make a =Balsamella= (see No.
+54) in sufficient quantity and when it is cooked add the above
+ingredients and let it cool well to fry using the wafer as in the
+preceding.
+
+
+70
+
+RICE PANCAKE
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook thoroughly 1/4 lb. of rice in about a pint of water giving it taste
+with a little piece of sugar and a taste of lemon peel. Leave it cool
+and then add three yolks of eggs and a little flour. Mix well and let
+the whole rest for several hours. When you are going to fry beat the
+white of an egg to a froth, add it to the rice and throw into the frying
+pan one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Serve hot sprinkled with confectionery sugar.
+
+
+71
+
+KIDNEY SAUTÉ
+
+(Rognoni saltati)
+
+Take one large kidney, or two or three small kidneys, open them and
+remove all the fat. Cut lengthwise in thin slices, salt and pour as much
+boiling water as is needed to cover them. When the water is thoroughly
+cooled, drain it and wipe well the slices with a cloth, then put them in
+a frying pan with a small piece of butter. Turn them often and when they
+have cooked for five minutes put in a pinch of flour and season with
+salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until thoroughly cooked and when
+you are going to take them away add another piece of butter, a sprig of
+chopped parsley and a little broth if needed. The kidney must not be
+kept too much on the fire, because in that case it hardens.
+
+
+72
+
+LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola)
+
+Take a shoulder or a leg of mutton and after having boned it, lard it
+with small pieces of bacon dipped in salt and pepper. Salt moderately
+the meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a pan that contains
+a piece of butter and one large onion larded with clover. When it begins
+to brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of broth, or of
+water, a little bunch of greens and some tomatoes cut in pieces. Put
+again on a low fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the
+saucepan closed, but opening from time to time to turn the meat. When it
+is cooked, throw away the onion, rub the sauce through a sieve, remove
+its fat and put it with the meat when served. The mutton must not be
+overdone, for in this case it cannot be sliced.
+
+
+73
+
+STEWED CUTLETS
+
+(Scaloppine alla Livornese)
+
+Take some slices of tender beef, beat them well and put them in a
+saucepan with a piece of butter. When this is all melted, put one or two
+tablespoonfuls of broth to complete the cooking, season with salt and
+pepper, add a pinch of flour and before taking them from the fire put
+in a pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+
+74
+
+CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT
+
+(Scaloppine di carne battuta)
+
+Take some good lean beef, clean it well, removing all little skins and
+tendons, then first chop and after grind the meat fine in the grinder.
+Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese. Mix well and give
+the meat the form of a ball then with bread crumbs over and beneath
+flatten it with the rolling pin on the bread board making a sheet of
+meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut it in square pieces, as large as
+the palm of the hand and cook in a saucepan with butter. When these
+cutlets are browned, pour over some tomato sauce and serve.
+
+If you prefer, use your hands instead of the rolling pin and then you
+can give them the shapes you like.
+
+If you have some left over meat this can perfectly well be mixed with
+the raw meat and chopped and ground together.
+
+
+75
+
+VEAL CUTLETS STEWED
+
+(Scaloppine alla Genovese)
+
+Cut some lean veal meat into slices and, supposing it be a pound or a
+little more, without bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized onion and
+put it in a saucepan with oil and a little piece of butter. Put over the
+cutlets, one layer over the other, season with salt and butter and put
+on the fire. When the meat which is below is browned put in a
+teaspoonful of flour and after a while a hash of parsley with half a
+clove of garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the other, mix
+them, let them drink in the sauce, then pour hot water and a little
+tomato sauce. Make it boil slowly and not much to complete the cooking
+and serve with abundant sauce and with little diamonds of toast.
+
+
+76
+
+STUFFED CUTLET
+
+(Braciuoline ripiene)
+
+Slice from a piece of veal (about one pound) seven or eight cutlets and
+beat them well with a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some tender
+veal meat and one or two slices of ham and add a small quantity of
+marrow bone (of veal) and grated cheese. The marrow and the grated
+cheese must be reduced to a paste with the blade of a knife. One egg is
+then added to tie up the hash and a pinch of pepper, but no salt on
+account of the ham and the cheese that already contain it. Spread the
+cutlets and put the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie them
+with strong thread.
+
+Now prepare a small hash with a little onion, a piece of celery a piece
+of carrot and a small quantity of corned beef and put it in the fire in
+a saucepan with a small piece of butter, at the same time that you put
+the cutlets. Season with salt and pepper and when they begin to brown
+pour some tomato sauce and complete the cooking with water. Before
+serving, remove the thread with which the cutlets have been tied.
+
+
+77
+
+MEAT OMELETTE
+
+(Polpettone)
+
+Take one pound of veal, without bones, clean it well taking away all
+skins and tendons and then chop it together with a slice of ham. Season
+moderately with salt pepper and spices, add one whole egg then with
+moistened hands make a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with flour.
+
+Make a hash with two or three slices of onion (not more) parsley,
+celery, and carrot, put it on the fire with a piece of butter and when
+it is browned throw in the =Polpettone=. Brown well on all sides and
+then pour in the saucepan half a tumbler of water in which half a
+tablespoonful of flour has been previously diluted. Cover and make it
+simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it doesn't burn. When you serve
+with the gravy squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it.
+
+If desired a hard boiled egg can be put shelled in the center of the
+meat ball, so that it gives it a better appearance when sliced.
+
+
+78
+
+LAMB WITH PEAS
+
+(Agnello ai piselli)
+
+Take a piece of lamb from the hind side, lard it with two cloves of
+garlic cut in little strips and with some sprigs of rosemary. Chop fine
+a piece of lard and a slice of corned beef. Put the lamb on the fire
+with this hash and a little oil and let it brown after seasoning with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned add a piece of butter, some tomato
+sauce, or tomato paste dissolved in water or soup stock and complete the
+cooking. Take away the lamb, put the peas in the gravy, and when they
+have simmered a little and are cooked put back the lamb and serve.
+
+
+79
+
+SHOULDER OF LAMB
+
+(Spalla d'agnello)
+
+Cut the meat of a shoulder of lamb in small pieces, or squares. Chop two
+small onions, brown them with a piece of butter and when they are
+browned put the meat and season with salt and pepper. Wait until the
+meat begins to brown and then add another piece of butter dipped in
+flour. Mix the whole and complete the cooking with soup stock or water
+with bouillon cubes poured in little by little.
+
+
+80
+
+BREAST OF VEAL STEWED
+
+(Stufatino di petto di vitella)
+
+Break a piece of breast of veal leaving all its bones.
+
+Make a hash with garlic, parsley, celery and carrot; add oil, pepper and
+salt and put on the fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when it
+begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of flour and a little tomato
+sauce or tomato paste diluted in water. Complete the cooking with broth
+or water. Finally add a piece of butter and pieces of celery cut in big
+pieces which must have been before half cooked in water and browned in
+butter. Care must be taken to keep the saucepan always covered, in this
+as in other stews.
+
+
+81
+
+VEAL WITH GRAVY
+
+(Vitella in guazzetto)
+
+First take about one pound of veal and tie it well. Then cover the
+bottom of the saucepan with some thin slices of corned beef and a piece
+of butter. Over this place half a lemon cut in four thin slices from
+which the skin and the seeds must be removed. Over all this put the veal
+which must be well browned on all sides, but care must be taken not to
+burn it on account of the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove
+the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of hot milk, that has boiled.
+Cover the saucepan and complete the cooking. Before serving rub the
+gravy through a sieve.
+
+
+82
+
+TRIPE WITH GRAVY
+
+Boil some tripe in water and when it is boiled, cut it in strips, one
+quarter of an inch wide and wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a
+saucepan with butter, and when this is melted, add some brown stock or
+good tomato sauce. Season with salt and pepper, cook thoroughly and add
+a pinch of grated cheese before taking from the saucepan.
+
+
+83
+
+VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY
+
+(Fegato di vitella al sugo)
+
+Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown in oil and butter, and
+when it has taken a dark red color, throw in the liver cut in thin
+slices. When half cooked season with salt, pepper and a pinch of
+chopped parsley. Make it simmer on a low fire so that the gravy remains,
+and serve in its gravy, squeezing over some lemon juice when sent to the
+table.
+
+In this and in similar cases, when using scallions or onions, some
+advise putting these in a cloth after being chopped and dip them in cold
+water squeezing them dry after.
+
+
+84
+
+MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL
+
+(Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella)
+
+Put in saucepan a slice of ham, some butter, a little bunch composed of
+carrot, celery and stems of parsley and over this some whole cutlets of
+mutton seasoned with salt and pepper. Make them brown on both sides, add
+another piece of butter, if necessary, and add to the cutlets some
+chicken giblets, sweetbreads and fresh or dry mushrooms (the latter
+softened in water), all cut in pieces. When all this begins to brown,
+pour some soup stock and let it simmer on a low fire. Sprinkle a little
+flour and finally pour a wineglass (or half a tumbler) of white wine
+leaving it boil a little more. When ready to serve remove the ham and
+the greens, rub the gravy through a sieve and remove the superfluous
+fat.
+
+
+85
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA
+
+(Filetto al marsala)
+
+Roll a piece of the tenderloin, tie it and, if it is about two pounds,
+put it on the fire with a middle-sized onion cut in thin slices, some
+thin slices of ham and a piece of butter, seasoning but moderately with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned from all sides and the onion is
+consumed, sprinkle a pinch of flour, let this take color and then pour
+some soup stock or water. Make it simmer on a low fire, then rub the
+gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a small
+tumbler of Marsala or Sherry wine put it back on the fire to simmer
+again. Serve with the gravy neither too liquid nor too thick.
+
+The filet can also be larded with bacon and cooked in butter and Marsala
+only.
+
+
+86
+
+MEAT GENOVESE
+
+(Carne alla Genovese)
+
+Take thick slices of good lean veal, weighing about a pound, beat it and
+flatten it well. Beat three or four eggs, season them with salt and
+pepper, a pinch of grated cheese and some chopped parsley. Fry the eggs
+in butter in the form of an omelet about the size of the meat over
+which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps and putting the
+pieces where it lacks so as to cover the meat entirely. After that roll
+tight the meat together with the omelet and tie it with thread. Then
+sprinkle some flour over it and put it in a saucepan with a piece of
+butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. When it is well browned on all
+sides, pour some soup stock to complete the cooking and serve it in its
+gravy which will be thick enough on account of the flour.
+
+
+87
+
+RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS
+
+(Sfornato di riso con rigoglie)
+
+Make a good brown stock (see No. 13) and use the same for the rice as
+well as for the giblets. To these add some thin slices of ham and brown
+them first in butter, seasoned moderately with salt and pepper,
+completing the cooking with brown stock. A taste of mushrooms will be
+found useful.
+
+Brown the rice equally in butter, then complete the cooking with hot
+water. Drain and put the brown stock, adding grated cheese and two
+beaten eggs, when the rice has cooled a little.
+
+Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it evenly with butter, cover
+the bottom with buttered paper and place in it the rice to harden it in
+the oven. When taken from the mold pour over the gravy from the
+giblets, slightly thickened with a pinch of flour and serve with the
+giblets around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for them.
+
+
+88
+
+PUDDING GENOESE
+
+(Budino alla genovese)
+
+Chop together a slice of veal, some chicken breast and two slices of ham
+and then grind or better pound them, with a small piece of butter, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and a crumb of bread soaked with milk.
+Rub through a sieve and add three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella= (see
+No. 54) which you will make thick enough for this dish, three eggs and
+just a taste of nutmeg, mixing everything well.
+
+Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with butter and put on the bottom a
+sheet of paper, cut according to the shape of the bottom and equally
+greased with butter. Pour over the above ingredients and cook in a
+vessel immersed in boiling water (double boiler).
+
+When taken from the mold, remove the paper and in its place put a gravy
+formed with chopped chicken giblets cooked in brown stock. Serve hot.
+
+
+89
+
+LIVER LOAF
+
+(Pane di fegato)
+
+Cut about one pound of veal liver in thin slices and four chicken livers
+in two parts and put all this in a saucepan with rosemary and a piece of
+butter. When this is melted put in another piece and season with salt
+and pepper. After four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the liver
+(dry) and grind it together with the rosemary. In the gravy that remains
+in the saucepan put a big crumb of bread, cut into small pieces and make
+a paste that will also be ground with the liver. Then rub everything
+through a sieve, add one whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of grated
+cheese, diluting with brown stock or water. Finally put in a smooth mold
+with a sheet of paper in the bottom, all evenly greased with butter and
+cook in a double boiler. Remove from the mold when cool and serve cold,
+with gelatine.
+
+
+90
+
+VEAL WITH TUNNY
+
+(Vitello tonnato)
+
+Take two pounds of meat without bones, remove the fat and tendons, then
+lard it with two anchovies. These must be washed and boned and cut
+lengthwise, after opening them, making in all eight pieces. Tie the
+piece of meat not very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in
+enough water to cover it completely. Previously put into the water one
+quarter of an onion larded with clover, one leaf of laurel, celery,
+carrot and parsley. Salt the water generously and don't put the veal in
+until it is boiling. When the veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it
+for two or three days in the following sauce in quantity sufficient to
+cover it.
+
+Grind 1/4 pound tunny fish preserved in olive oil and two anchovies,
+crush them well with the blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding
+good olive oil in abundance little by little, and squeeze in one whole
+lemon, so that the sauce should remain liquid. Finally mix in some
+capers soaked in vinegar.
+
+Serve the veal cold, in thin slices, with the sauce.
+
+The stock of the veal can be rubbed through a sieve and used for
+risotto.
+
+
+91
+
+STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH
+
+(Zucchini ripieni)
+
+For a description of the =Zucchini= see No. 32.
+
+To make the stuffed zucchini first cut them lengthwise in two halves and
+remove the interior pulp, leaving space enough for the filling.
+
+Take some lean veal (quantity in proportion to the squashes) cut it into
+pieces and place it on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot, a little corned beef cut in little pieces, a
+little oil, salt and pepper. Stir it often with a spoon and when the
+meat is brown pour in a cup of water and then another after a while.
+Then rub the gravy through a sieve and put it aside.
+
+Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the grinder and make a hash of
+it and one egg, a little grated cheese, a crumb of bread boiled in milk
+or in soup stock and just a taste of nutmeg. Put this hash inside each
+half squash and put them to brown in butter, completing the cooking with
+the gravy set aside.
+
+
+92
+
+STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUTÉ
+
+(Fagiolini e zucchini sauté)
+
+Brown in butter some string beans, that have been previously half cooked
+in water and some raw squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in only
+when the butter is beginning to brown. Season moderately with salt and
+butter and add some brown stock or good tomato sauce.
+
+
+93
+
+STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo)
+
+Take less than a pound of string beans, cutting off the two points and
+removing all the strings, and then cook them partially in water
+moderately salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and brown with
+butter, salt and pepper. Beat one yolk with a teaspoonful of flour and
+the juice of half a small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold broth
+from which the fat has been removed and put this liquid on the fire in a
+small saucepan stirring continually. When the liquid has become, through
+the cooking, like a cream, pour it on the string beans that you will
+keep on the fire a little longer, with the sauce. The string beans so
+prepared can be served with boiled beef.
+
+
+94
+
+STRING BEANS IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di fagiolini)
+
+Take one pound of string beans, seeing that they are quite tender. Cut
+off the ends and remove the strings. Throw them into boiling water with
+a pinch of salt and when they are half cooked take them away and put
+them in cold water. If you have brown stock complete the cooking with
+this and with butter, otherwise brown a piece of onion, some parsley, a
+piece of celery and olive oil. When the onion is browned put in the
+string beans and complete the cooking with a little water if necessary.
+
+Prepare a =Balsamella= sauce (No. 54) with a small piece of butter,
+half a teaspoonful of flour and half a cup of milk. With this, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and four beaten eggs bind the string
+beans when they are cold, mix and put in a mold, evenly greased with
+butter and the bottom covered with paper. Cook in a double boiler and
+serve hot.
+
+
+95
+
+CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di cavolfiore)
+
+Take a good sized cauliflower, remove the stalk and outside leaves, half
+cook it in water and then cut it into small pieces. Salt them and put
+them to brown with a little piece of butter and then complete the
+cooking with a cup of milk. Then rub them through a sieve. Prepare a
+=Balsamella= (No. 54) and add it to the cauliflower with 3 beaten eggs
+and a tablespoonful of grated cheese.
+
+Cook in a greased mold and serve hot.
+
+
+96
+
+ARTICHOKES IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di carciofi)
+
+Remove the outside leaves of the artichokes, the harder part of all
+leaves, and clean the stalks without removing them.
+
+Cut each artichoke into four parts and put them to boil in salt water
+for only five minutes. If left longer on the fire they become too soaked
+in water and lose their taste. Remove from the water, drain them, grind
+or pound and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so obtained with
+two or three beaten eggs, two or three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella=
+(No. 54) grated cheese, salt and a taste of nutmeg, but taste the
+seasoning several times to see that it is correctly dosed.
+
+Place in a mold with brown stock or meat gravy (in that case use a mold
+with a hole) and cook in double boiler.
+
+
+97
+
+FRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi fritti)
+
+Choose middle-sized mushrooms, which are also of the right ripeness:
+when they are too big they are too soft and if small they are too hard.
+
+Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do not keep in water, for then
+they would lose their pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large
+slices and dip them in flour before putting in the frying pan. Olive oil
+is best for frying mushrooms and the seasoning is composed exclusively
+of salt and pepper to be applied when they are frying. They can also be
+dipped in beaten eggs after being sprinkled with flour, but this is
+superfluous.
+
+
+98
+
+STEWED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi in umido)
+
+For a stew the mushrooms ought to be below middle-size. Clean, wash and
+cut as for the preceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with olive oil, one
+or two cloves of oil and some mint leaves. When the oil begins to
+splutter, put the mushrooms in without dipping in flour, season with
+salt and pepper and when they are half cooked pour in some tomato sauce.
+Be sparing however, with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms do
+not absorb it too much and so lose some of their own delicate flavor.
+
+
+99
+
+DRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi secchi)
+
+Mushrooms are an excellent condiment of various dishes and for this
+reason it is well to have some always at hand. Since, however, it is
+not always possible to have them fresh, the following recipe to prepare
+dried mushrooms will be found useful.
+
+First of all wait until there is a sunny day. Choose young mushrooms
+middle sized or big, but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean them well
+in order to remove the earth and, without washing cut them in big
+pieces. This because when dried they diminish considerably in size. Keep
+these pieces exposed in the sun for two or three days, then thread them
+on a string (practising a hole in them) and keep in a well ventilated
+room or in the sun until they become quite dry. Then put them away well
+closed in a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from time to time
+to see if it is necessary to expose them some more to sun and
+ventilation.
+
+To use them soften in warm water, but keep them in as little as
+possible, so that they do not lose their delicate flavor. The best time
+to dry the mushrooms is June or July.
+
+
+100
+
+FRIED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane fritte)
+
+Egg-plant or, as they are also called, mad-apples are an excellent
+vegetable which may be used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or
+middle-sized egg-plants are to be preferred, as the big ones have
+sometimes a slightly bitter taste.
+
+Remove the skin, cut into cubes, salt and leave them in a plate for a
+few hours. Then wipe them to remove the juice that they have thrown out,
+dip in flour and fry in oil.
+
+
+101
+
+STEWED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane in umido)
+
+Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place on the fire with a piece
+of butter. When this is all absorbed, complete the cooking with tomato
+sauce (No. 12).
+
+
+102
+
+EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN
+
+(Melanzane al forno)
+
+Skin five or six egg-plants, cut them in round slices and salt them so
+that they throw out the water that they contain. After a few hours dip
+in flour and frying oil.
+
+Take a fireproof vase or baking tin and place the slices in layers, with
+grated cheese between each layer, abundantly seasoned with tomato sauce
+(No. 12).
+
+Beat one egg with a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce, a
+teaspoonful of grated cheese and two of crumbs of bread, and cover the
+upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the oven and when the egg
+is coagulated, serve hot.
+
+
+103
+
+DRESSING OF CELERY
+
+(Sedano per contorno)
+
+The following are three ways to prepare celery to be served as seasoning
+or seasoning for meat dishes. For the first two make the pieces about
+four inches long, and two inches for the third. The stalk must be
+skinned, cut crosswise and left attached to the rib of the celery. Boil
+it in water moderately salted not over five minutes and remove dry.
+
+1. Put the celery to brown in butter, then complete the cooking with
+brown stock (No. 13) and sprinkle with grated cheese when serving.
+
+2. Put in saucepan a piece of butter and a hash made with ham and a
+middle sized onion, chopped fine. Add two cloves and make it boil. When
+the onion is browned add soup stock or hot water with bouillon cubes and
+complete the cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve and put the
+gravy in a plate with the celery, seasoning with pepper only, as the
+salt is already in the ham and serve with the gravy.
+
+3. Dip the celery in flour and in the paste for frying (No. 58) and fry
+in fat or oil. Or else dip in flour and then in beaten egg, wrap in
+bread crumbs and fry.
+
+
+104
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCE
+
+(Carciofi in salsa)
+
+Remove the hard leaves of the artichokes, cut the points and skin the
+stalk. Divide each artichoke into four parts or six if they are big, and
+put them on the fire with butter in proportion, seasoning with salt and
+pepper. Shake the saucepan to turn them and when they have absorbed a
+good part of the melted butter, pour in some broth to complete the
+cooking. Remove them dry, and in the gravy that remains put a pinch of
+chopped parsley, one or two teaspoonfuls of cheese grated fine, lemon
+juice, more salt and pepper if needed, and, mixing the whole, make it
+simmer for a while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and add one or
+two yolks of egg, according to the quantity and put back on the fire
+with more broth to make the sauce loose. Put the artichokes in the sauce
+this second time to heat them and serve especially as a side-dish for
+boiled meat.
+
+
+105
+
+STUFFED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi ripieni)
+
+Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small outside leaves and wash the
+artichokes. Then cut the top and open the internal leaves so that you
+can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove the hairy part if it is
+there. Keep aside the small interior leaves to put them with the
+stuffing. This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes, must be
+composed of the above small leaves, 1/8 lb. of ham more lean than fat,
+one fourth of a small onion, just a taste of garlic, some leaves of
+celery or parsley, a pinch of dry mushrooms, softened in water, a crumb
+of bread and a pinch of pepper, but no salt.
+
+First chop the ham, then grind everything together and with the hash
+fill the artichokes, and put them to cook standing on their stalks in a
+saucepan with some oil, salt and pepper. Some prefer to give the
+artichokes a half cooking in water before stuffing it, but it is hardly
+advisable, because in this way they lose part of their special flavor.
+
+
+106
+
+ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT
+
+(Carciofi ripieni di carne)
+
+For six artichokes, make the following stuffing:
+
+  1/4 lb. lean veal.
+  Two slices of ham, more fat than lean.
+  The interior part of the artichokes.
+  One fourth of onion (small).
+  Some leaves of parsley.
+  One pinch of softened dried mushrooms.
+  One small crumb of bread rolled and sifted.
+  One pinch of grated cheese.
+
+When the artichokes have been browned with oil alone, pour a little
+water and cover with a moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The
+steam that surrounds the artichokes cooks them better.
+
+
+107
+
+PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Piselli alla francese)
+
+The following recipe is good for one of fresh peas. Take two young
+onions, cut them in half, put some stems of parsley in the middle and
+tie them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of butter and when
+they are browned, pour over a cup of soup stock. Make it boil and when
+the onions are softened rub them through a sieve together with the gravy
+that you will then put on the fire with the peas and two whole hearts of
+lettuce. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer. When the peas
+are half cooked add another piece of butter dipped in a scant
+tablespoonful of flour and pour in some broth, if necessary. Before
+sending to the table put in two yolks of eggs dissolved in a little
+broth.
+
+II
+
+The following recipe is simpler than the preceding, but not so delicate.
+Cut an onion in very thin slices and put it on the fire in a saucepan
+with a little butter. When it is well browned add a pinch of flour, mix
+and then add according to the quantity, a cup or two of soup stock or
+water with bouillon cubes and allow the flour to cook. Put in the peas,
+season with salt and pepper and add, when they are half cooked, one or
+two whole hearts of lettuce. Let it simmer, seeing that the gravy is not
+too thick.
+
+Before serving remove the lettuce.
+
+
+108
+
+PEAS WITH HAM
+
+(Piselli col prosciutto)
+
+Cut in two one or two young onions, according to the quantity of the
+peas and put them on the fire with oil and one thick slice of ham cut
+into small cubes. Brown until the ham is shrivelled; then put the peas
+in, season with a pinch of pepper and very little salt, mix and complete
+the cooking with broth, adding a little butter.
+
+Before serving, throw the onion away.
+
+
+109
+
+PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF
+
+(Piselli con la carne secca)
+
+Put on the fire a hash of corned beef, garlic, parsley and oil, season
+with a little salt and pepper and when the garlic is browned, put the
+peas in. When they have absorbed the sauce, complete the cooking with
+broth or, failing that, with water.
+
+
+110
+
+STUFFED TOMATOES
+
+(Pomodori ripieni)
+
+Select ripe middle-sized tomatoes, cut them in two equal parts and scoop
+out the inside seeds. Season with salt and pepper and fill the tomatoes
+with the following hash, in such a way as to make the stuffing come over
+the edge of the half tomato:
+
+Make a hash with onion, parsley and celery, put it on the fire with a
+piece of butter and when it is browned, put in a small handful of dried
+mushrooms previously softened in water and chopped very fine: add a
+tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk, season with salt and
+pepper and let the compound simmer, moistening with water if necessary.
+When you take from the fire add, when it is still lukewarm, grated
+cheese and a beaten yolk (or two) of egg, but seeing that the compound
+does not become too liquid.
+
+When the tomatoes are filled, take them in the oven with a little butter
+and oil mixed together and serve them as a side-dish for roast beef or
+steak.
+
+The stuffed tomatoes can be made simpler with a hash of garlic and
+parsley mixed with bread crumbs, salt and pepper and seasoned with oil
+when they are in the saucepan.
+
+
+111
+
+CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA
+
+(Cavolfiore colla balsamella)
+
+Remove from a good sized cauliflower the external leaves and the green
+ribs, make a deep cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in salted
+water. Then cut it in sections and brown with butter, salt and pepper.
+Put it in a baking tin, throw over a small pinch of grated cheese, cover
+with the =balsamella= (No. 54) and brown the surface.
+
+Serve this cauliflower as an =entremets= or as a side-dish with boiled
+chicken or a stew.
+
+
+112
+
+STUFFED CABBAGE
+
+(Cavolo ripieno)
+
+Take a big cabbage, remove the hard outside leaves, cut the stem off
+even with the leaves and give it half cooking in salt water. Put it
+upside down to drain, then open the leaves one by one until the heart is
+exposed and on this put the stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close
+them and tie with thread crosswise.
+
+The stuffing can be made with milk veal stewed alone, or with sweetbread
+or chicken liver, all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, add some
+=balsamella= (No 54) a pinch of grated cheese, one yolk of egg and a
+taste of nutmeg. Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sauce of
+this stew, adding a little butter, on a low fire or in the oven kept
+low.
+
+Instead of filling the whole cabbage, the larger leaves may be filled
+one by one, rolling and tying them.
+
+
+113
+
+SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH
+
+(Spinaci per contorno)
+
+After cooking the spinach in boiling water and chopping them fine, the
+spinach can be cooked in different ways:
+
+1. With butter, salt and pepper, adding a little brown stock, if you
+have it, or a few tablespoonfuls of broth, or milk.
+
+2. With onion sauce (onion chopped very fine) and butter.
+
+3. With butter salt and pepper, adding a very small pinch of grated
+cheese.
+
+4. With butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato
+paste diluted with soup stock or water.
+
+
+114
+
+ASPARAGUS
+
+(Sparagi)
+
+Asparagus can be prepared in many different ways, but the simplest and
+best is that of boiling them and serving them seasoned with olive oil
+and vinegar or lemon juice. However there are other ways as, for
+instance, the following: Put them whole to brown a little with the green
+part in butter and, after seasoning them with salt, pepper and a pinch
+of grated cheese, pour over the melted butter when it is browned. Or
+else divide the white from the green part and place them as follows in a
+fireproof plate: Dust the bottom with grated cheese and dispose over the
+points of the asparagus one near the other; season with salt, pepper,
+grated cheese and little pieces of butter. Make another layer of
+asparagus and, seasoning in the same way, continue until you have them.
+Be moderate in the seasoning. Cross the layers of asparagus like a
+trestle, put on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is melted. Serve
+hot.
+
+If you have some brown stock, parboil them first and complete the
+cooking with brown stock, adding a little bust and dusting moderately
+with grated cheese.
+
+
+115
+
+FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS
+
+(Pesce col pane grattato)
+
+This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is made especially when
+you have boiled fish of good quality left over.
+
+Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all the bones, then put it
+in the =balsamella= (No. 54) and season with enough salt, grated cheese
+and some mushrooms chopped fine. If dried mushrooms soften in water
+first. Then take a fireproof plate, grease it evenly with butter and
+dust with bread crumbs ground fine; pour into it the fish prepared as
+above and cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs. Finally put over a
+piece of butter, brown in the oven and serve hot.
+
+
+116
+
+STEWED FISH CUTLETS
+
+(Pesce a taglio in umido)
+
+The fish that can be used for this dish are the tunny, the umber or
+grayling, the sword fish and any piece of fish of large size and good
+savor. A pound may be sufficient for four or five persons.
+
+Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in flour and put to brown in
+a little oil. Remove dry, throw away the oil that remains and clean the
+saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with half a middle sized
+onion, a piece of white celery and a good pinch of parsley. Put this to
+brown on the fire with sufficient oil and season with salt, pepper and
+one whole clove. When it is browned put abundant tomato sauce (No 12) or
+tomato paste diluted in broth or water. Let it simmer for a while, then
+place the fish to complete the cooking, turning it over frequently. The
+fish must be served with this thick gravy that ought to be abundant.
+
+
+117
+
+WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Merluzzo alla Palermitana)
+
+Take one whiting, one pound or a little more, and trim all the fins,
+leaving the tail and the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season
+with a little salt and pepper. Turn it on the back, grease with oil,
+season with salt and pepper, dust with bread crumbs then lay it with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil on a fireproof plate or baking tin.
+
+Take three or four good sized anchovies, bone and clean them, chop them
+and put on the fire with two tablespoonfuls of oil, but do not allow it
+to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the fish and dust it all with
+bread crumbs, putting also some leaves of rosemary. Bake in the oven,
+allowing a little crust to form over, but see that it doesn't dry up,
+pouring over to this purpose more oil. Before removing from the tin
+squeeze half a lemon over.
+
+This dish can be served surrounded by little toast with caviar, or
+anchovies and butter.
+
+
+118
+
+STEWED EEL
+
+(Anguille in umido)
+
+For this dish it is preferable to have good sized eels that must not be
+skinned, but cut in small pieces.
+
+Chop some onion and parsley, put it on the fire with oil, salt, and
+pepper, and when the onion is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until
+it has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then complete the
+cooking with tomato sauce (No. 12).
+
+See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with little squares or
+diamonds of toast.
+
+
+119
+
+EELS WITH PEAS
+
+(Anguille coi piselli)
+
+Cook the eels as above with the onion sauce and when it is cooked remove
+it dry to cook the green peas in the sauce. The pieces of eel should be
+put back in the sauce to be warmed. No tomato sauce is necessary here.
+
+
+120
+
+MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Arselle in salsa d'uovo)
+
+A good washing with fresh water is sufficient for mussels that do not
+have any sand to be cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce of
+oil, garlic, parsley and a pinch of pepper. Shake them and keep the
+saucepan covered seeing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take
+them out when they are open and prepare the following sauce: one or more
+yolks of egg, according to the quantity, lemon juice, one teaspoonful of
+flour, broth and some of their own juice. Cook this sauce until it
+becomes a smooth cream and pour it on the mussels when they are served.
+
+
+121
+
+MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Arselle alla livornese)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it on the fire with oil and a pinch of
+pepper. When the onion begins to brown add a pinch of parsley chopped
+not very fine and after put in the mussels with tomato sauce (No. 12)
+or tomato paste diluted in water. Shake them often and when they are
+open, put them over slices of toast prepared beforehand and arranged on
+a plate.
+
+
+122
+
+CODFISH
+
+(Baccalá)
+
+I
+
+Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, changing the water two or
+three times, or, better, keeping it for some time in a vase under
+running cold water. Then cut it into pieces as large as the palm of the
+hand and dip them in flour until they are well covered. Then put a
+kettle or a saucepan on the fire with plenty of oil and two or three
+cloves of garlic, whole but a little crushed. When the garlic begins to
+brown put in the codfish and brown it on both sides, stirring it often,
+so that it doesn't burn. Salt is not necessary, or at least only a
+little after tasting, but a little pepper will not be amiss. Finally
+pour over some tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted in water,
+let it boil a little more and serve.
+
+
+123
+
+II
+
+The following is another way to prepare the codfish, slightly different
+from the preceding. Cut the codfish as above, then put it as it is in
+saucepan with some olive oil. Spread over it a hash of garlic and
+parsley and season with a pinch of pepper, oil and little pieces of
+butter. Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, because, not being
+sprinkled with flour, it breaks easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a
+lemon over and serve.
+
+
+124
+
+FRIED CODFISH
+
+(Baccalá fritto)
+
+Place the codfish on the fire--after washing as explained in No. 107--in
+a kettle with cold water and as salt, and as soon as the water boils,
+remove the codfish.
+
+After boiling cut it in little pieces and remove all the bones. Sprinkle
+some flour and dip in a frying paste composed of water, flour and a
+little oil. Fry in oil and serve hot.
+
+
+125
+
+CODFISH CROQUETTES
+
+(Cotolette di baccalá)
+
+Boil as explained above and, if the quantity is one pound or a little
+more put together two anchovies and some parsley, chopping everything
+together very fine. Add some pepper, a tablespoonful of grated cheese,
+three or four tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of bread crumbs in large
+pieces, water and butter, and two eggs. Give the compound the form of
+several flat cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and in ground bread crumbs.
+Fry in oil and serve with lemon, or tomato sauce.
+
+
+126
+
+FRIED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo fritto)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in slices, not very thick, and place it in a plate with
+beaten eggs somewhat salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour
+before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of bread crumbs, grated
+cheese, garlic and parsley chopped fine, salt and pepper. A clove of
+garlic is sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in oil and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+127
+
+STEWED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo in umido)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in rather big pieces and then make a hash of garlic,
+parsley and very little onion. Put this hash on the fire with oil and
+when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces of dog-fish and season
+with salt and pepper. When the fish is cooked pour over some tomato
+sauce (No. 12), let this simmer for a while, then serve.
+
+
+128
+
+ROAST-BEEF
+
+(Arrosto)
+
+Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still it is prepared in a
+peculiar way by the Italians, and hence this recipe finds its place
+here.
+
+To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two pounds ought to be cooked
+on a strong fire. It ought to be covered with good olive oil and finally
+with cup of soup stock which with the oil and the juice from the meat
+will form a rich gravy. Salt it only when it is half cooked and do it
+moderately, because the beef is already tasty by itself.
+
+Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup is served and the meal
+begins. This will be sufficient if the piece is not very big. To
+ascertain the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin
+larding-pin, but not often, in order not to allow too much juice to
+escape. The juice must neither be of the color of the blood nor too
+dark.
+
+If baked it is to be seasoned with salt, oil and a piece of butter,
+surrounded by raw potatoes peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of broth or
+of water. If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it into slices and
+warm with butter and brown stock or tomato sauce.
+
+
+129
+
+ROAST VEAL
+
+(Arrosto di vitella)
+
+Choose for that milk veal that is to be found all the year round,
+although it is always better during the spring or summer.
+
+The piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a saucepan, slightly larded
+with garlic and rosemary, with oil, butter and a hash of corned beef,
+salt, pepper and tomato sauce. In the gravy fresh peas can be cooked.
+
+
+130
+
+POT ROAST
+
+(Arrosto morto)
+
+This can be done with all kinds of meats, but the best is milk veal.
+Take a good piece of the loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on
+the fire with good olive oil and butter, both in small quantity. Brown
+well from all sides, salt when half cooked and complete the cooking with
+a half cup of broth, seeing that little juice remains. If no broth is at
+hand, use tomato sauce, or tomato paste diluted with water. Some corned
+beef chopped fine can also be added.
+
+
+131
+
+POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY
+
+(Arrosto morto coll'odore dell'aglio e del ramerino)
+
+Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of garlic and one or two bunches
+of rosemary in the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the gravy
+through a sieve without pressing and surround the meat with potatoes or
+vegetables cooked apart.
+
+The leg of lamb comes very well in this way, baked in the oven.
+
+
+132
+
+BIRDS
+
+(Arrosto di uccelli)
+
+The best way to cook birds, and that nearly always used by the Italians,
+is roasted at the spit. They must be spitted with a small slice of bread
+between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very thin slices of bacon, in
+such a way that it can be spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the
+bacon almost as thin as paper. Pass some oil--only once--over when they
+begin to brown, using a brush or a feather, and salt only once,
+moderately.
+
+Put on the fire when near to be served, otherwise they may get dry and
+lose much of their flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good
+fire.
+
+
+133
+
+ROAST OF LAMB
+
+(Arrosto d'agnello)
+
+Take a leg of lamb and season it with salt, pepper, oil and a drop of
+vinegar. Pierce it here and there with the point of a knife and leave it
+like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay leaf or rosemary to
+be removed when serving. The leg of lamb can be baked or, as the
+Italians do, cooked at the spit.
+
+
+134
+
+LEG OF MUTTON
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato arrosto)
+
+Before cooking see that several days elapse after the animal has been
+butchered. This, naturally, according to the temperature. Beat it well
+with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the middle bone, without
+spoiling the meat. Then tie it and give it a good fire at the beginning,
+covering the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its own juice and in
+a cup of broth strained to remove the fat; nothing else. Salt when it is
+almost cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor rare, just
+medium. Serve with its juice apart in a sauce.
+
+
+135
+
+ROAST OF HARE
+
+(Arrosto di lepre)
+
+The part of the hare fitted for roast is the hind quarters, but the
+limbs of this game are covered with little skins that must be carefully
+removed, before cooking, without cutting the muscles.
+
+Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or fourteen hours in a liquid
+prepared as follows: put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of water
+with half a tumbler of vinegar or less in proportion with the piece to
+be cooked, three of four scallions chopped fine, one or two bay-leaves,
+a bunch of parsley, a little salt and a pinch of pepper; make it boil
+for five or six minutes, cool and pour when cold over the hare. When you
+remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard it all with little
+pieces of good bacon.
+
+Cook on a low fire, salt it sufficiently and grease with cream and
+nothing else. Never use the liver of the hare which, it is said, is very
+indigestible.
+
+
+136
+
+POT ROAST LARDED
+
+(Arrosto morto lardellato)
+
+Take a piece short and thick of beef or veal, quite tender and weighing
+about two pounds or a little more. Lard it with ham or bacon cut in
+little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a stewpan with a piece of
+butter, one fourth of a middle-sized onion cut in two pieces, three or
+four ribs of celery half an inch thick and as many slices of carrot.
+Season with salt and pepper and when the meat begins to brown--turning
+it often--pour over one cup of water and complete the cooking on a low
+fire, leaving it to absorb great part of the gravy. See, however, that
+it doesn't dry up and become black. When you send to the table strain
+the juice that has remained and pour it on the meat, that may be
+surrounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept whole if small,
+previously browned in butter or oil.
+
+
+137
+
+PIGEON SURPRISE
+
+(Piccione a sorpresa)
+
+The pigeon (or chicken) must be opened and stuffed with a cutlet of milk
+veal. Of course this cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well
+to render it thinner and more tender, season with salt, pepper, a pinch
+of spices and little pieces of butter, roll it and put inside the pigeon
+sewing the opening. The liver and giblets of the pigeon can be cooked
+apart in brown stock or in butter, after being chopped. With the
+resulting gravy the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the different
+flavor of the two qualities of meat is better amalgamated.
+
+
+138
+
+STUFFED BEEF CUTLET
+
+(Braciuola di manzo ripiena)
+
+The ingredients for this dish are a slice of beef half an inch thick,
+weighing about one pound, half a pound or less of lean milk veal, two
+small slices of ham and two or three of tongue, one scant tablespoonful
+of grated cheese, a piece of butter, two chicken livers, one egg, a
+crumb of bread as large as a closed fist.
+
+Make a hash with a small onion, a little celery, carrot and parsley, put
+it on the fire with the butter and when it is browned, place in the
+saucepan the veal cut in small pieces and the chicken livers, season
+with little salt and pepper and complete the cooking with a little
+broth. Remove the veal and chicken when cooked, and chop them fine. In
+the gravy that remains make a pap rather hard with the crumb of bread,
+moistening with broth if necessary. Now mix the chopped meat, the pap,
+the eggs, the cheese, the ham and tongue cut in little pieces. When the
+stuffing is composed thus, dip the cutlet in water, in order to stretch
+it better, beat it with the back of the knife and flatten with its
+blades. Put the stuffing inside and roll up and tie tightly with a
+string crosswise. Roast or bake with oil and salt.
+
+
+139
+
+STUFFED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo ripieno)
+
+For a middle-sized fowl use the following ingredients: two sausages, the
+liver and giblets of the fowl, eight or ten chestnuts well roasted, some
+pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg, one egg. If, instead of a fowl,
+it is a turkey, double the dose.
+
+Begin by giving the sausages and the giblets half a cooking, moistening
+them with a little broth if necessary. Season with a little salt and
+pepper on account of the sausages that already contain them. Remove them
+and in the gravy that remains put a crumb of bread, in order to obtain
+with a little broth two tablespoonfuls of thick pap. Skin the sausages,
+chop the chicken giblets and the giblets and grind everything together
+with the chestnuts, the egg and the pap; this is the stuffing with which
+the fowl is to be filled, to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold
+than hot, and it can also be cut better.
+
+
+140
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE
+
+(Pollo al diavolo)
+
+This ought to be cooked with Cayenne pepper and served with a highly
+seasoned sauce, but not everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook
+the chicken "al diavolo" is the following:
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and the legs, open it all in front
+and flatten it open as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a towel,
+then put it on the grill and when it begins to brown turn it. Grease it
+with melted butter or with oil, using a brush, and season with salt and
+pepper. The later may be Cayenne pepper for those who like it. Keep
+turning and greasing until it is all cooked.
+
+To prepare the sauce piquante that many like with chicken broiled in
+this way, put four tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and when it
+begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it is
+well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the
+range and slowly add two cupfuls of brown stock, stirring constantly,
+add salt and a dash of Cayenne and let simmer for ten minutes. In
+another saucepan boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar one tablespoonful
+of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar rapidly for five minutes;
+then add it to the sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful of
+chopped capers two tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle and one teaspoonful
+of tarragon vinegar. Stir well and let cook for two minutes to heat the
+pickles. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little water.
+
+This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all roasts and boiled meats,
+besides being a fitting condiment for the chicken "al diavolo".
+
+
+141
+
+CHICKEN WITH HAM
+
+(Pollo in porchetta)
+
+Fill a chicken with thin strips of ham, about half an inch wide. Add
+three cloves (or sections) of garlic, two little bunches of fennel and a
+few grains of pepper. Season outside with salt and pepper and cook in a
+saucepan with butter, or preferably bake in the oven. Sausages cut
+lengthwise and previously skinned can be substituted for the ham.
+
+
+142
+
+CHICKEN SAUTÉ
+
+(Pollo saltato)
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and trim the wings. Cut away the
+legs. Cut the chicken into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. Beat
+an egg with a teaspoonful of water and place in it the pieces of chicken
+after dipping them in flour and seasoning generously with salt and
+pepper. Leave the pieces in the egg until it is time for cooking. Then
+take the pieces one by one, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place a
+saucepan with a good piece of butter on the fire. When the butter begins
+to brown put in the pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then
+turn them when browned to the other side. Let them on a good fire for
+about ten minutes. Serve with lemon. The chicken prepared in this way is
+good also when cold.
+
+
+143
+
+AFRICAN HEN
+
+(Gallina di Faraone)
+
+This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should not be too fresh, like
+all game.
+
+The best way to cook the African hen is roasted at the spit. Put in the
+inside a ball of butter dipped in salt and wrap it in a piece of paper
+greased with butter and sprinkled with salt. This paper must be removed
+when the fowl is nearly cooked, and then the cooking is completed
+greasing with more butter and adding more salt.
+
+
+144
+
+TAME DUCK ROASTED
+
+(Anatra domestica arrosto)
+
+Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with slices of bacon, large
+and thin. Grease with oil and salt moderately when the cooking is almost
+complete. If you have a wild duck grease with butter, as the meat is
+drier.
+
+
+145
+
+TURKEY
+
+(Tacchino)
+
+The turkey has been imported to Europe from America, but it is
+nevertheless a well known dish in Italian families, although not
+enjoying the popularity that it has on this side of the ocean. When
+roasted it is generally larded moderately with little pieces of garlic
+and bay-leaf or rosemary and seasoned with a hash of corned beef or
+bacon, a little butter, salt and pepper, tomato sauce or tomato paste
+diluted in water. The breast, flattened until it is about half an inch
+thick and seasoned generously some hours before cooking with oil, salt
+and pepper, is excellent broiled on the grill.
+
+
+146
+
+LOIN OF PORK ROASTED
+
+(Lombo di maiale arrosto)
+
+The loin of pork, cut in little pieces forms an excellent roast at the
+spit. The pieces of pork are to be divided by little pieces of toast and
+greased with oil.
+
+If the pork is to be baked, choose that piece of the loin that has its
+ribs and that may weigh six or eight pounds. Lard it with garlic,
+rosemary or bay leaf and a few cloves, but moderately, and season with
+salt and pepper.
+
+This roast is very popular in Italy, where they call it =arista=.
+
+
+147
+
+LEG OF LAMB
+
+(Agnello all'Orientale)
+
+This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient and adopted by the
+Italians, especially in Southern Italy. The leg of lamb is to be larded
+with the larding pin with slices of bacon seasoned with salt and pepper,
+greased with butter or milk, or milk alone and salted when half cooked.
+
+The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do not lard it, as pork is
+forbidden by their religion, but cook it with an abundance of milk.
+
+
+148
+
+BROILED PIGEON
+
+(Piccione in gratella)
+
+Take a young, but fat pigeon, divide it in two parts lengthwise and
+flatten it well with the hands. Then put it to brown in oil for four or
+five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season when still hot with salt
+and pepper, then arrange it as follows.
+
+Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of butter and mix the
+liquid butter with one beaten egg. Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg
+and keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with bread crumbs
+ground fine. Cook on a grill on a low fire and serve with a sauce or a
+side dish.
+
+
+149
+
+STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN
+
+(Bistecca nel tegame)
+
+If you have a steak that does not appear to be too tender, put it in a
+saucepan with a little piece of butter and some good olive oil, with a
+taste of garlic and bay-leaf or rosemary. Add, if necessary, a little
+broth or water or tomato sauce and serve with potatoes cooked in the
+gravy that can be made more abundant with more broth, butter and tomato
+sauce.
+
+
+150
+
+VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY
+
+(Rognone alle acciughe)
+
+Take a veal kidney, remove the fat, cut it open and cover with boiling
+water. When the water has cooled, remove the kidney, wipe with a cloth,
+and pass through it clean sticks to make it stay open. Season with
+melted butter, salt and pepper and leave it so prepared for an hour or
+two.
+
+Then take another piece of butter and two or three anchovies. Clean the
+latter, chop and mix with the butter with the blade of a knife, making a
+ball. Cook the kidney on the grill, but not too much, in order to keep
+it tender, put it on a plate and grease when hot with the ball of butter
+and anchovies.
+
+
+151
+
+VEAL KIDNEY SLICED
+
+(Rognone di vitello affettato)
+
+Cut in thin slices one or two veal kidneys, removing the granulous part
+that is to be found in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan with
+a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley chopped very fine together with a
+clove of garlic. Add a cup of hot broth; salt moderately and let it cook
+without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to about one third.
+
+One tablespoonful of vinegar adds a pleasant taste to this dish.
+
+
+152
+
+BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY
+
+(Rognone di montone alla graticola)
+
+After washing the kidneys, remove the filmy skin that covers them and
+cut them in the middle without, however, detaching completely the two
+parts. Season with salt and pepper, grease with oil and put them on a
+strong fire on the grill. After ten or twelve minutes they will be
+broiled. Serve hot with parsley and slices of lemon.
+
+
+153
+
+MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED
+
+(Granelli di montone fritti)
+
+Wash, remove the skin that covers the kidneys and cut in very thin
+slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip first in ground bread crumbs, then in a
+beaten egg mixed with melted butter, then again in the bread crumbs.
+This must be done rapidly, at the time of frying, otherwise the bread
+crumbs absorb the moisture of the kidney and make them too hard.
+
+Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan on a strong fire and when it begins
+to brown, dip the slices of kidney. Turn often, sprinkle with a little
+parsley chopped fine, salt and serve with lemon.
+
+
+154
+
+BEEF TONGUE BOILED
+
+(Lingua di bue lessa)
+
+The tongue is boiled like the beef. When half cooked remove the skin,
+which is not nice to see and has no nutritious elements, although it is
+served with a purée of peas, or spinach or potatoes or beans, etc.
+But it can be served simply with sprigs of parsley.
+
+
+155
+
+BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES
+
+(Lingua di bue alle olive)
+
+Scald the tongue and peel off the skin. Then put it back to boil until
+fully cooked.
+
+Melt a piece of butter and brown half a medium sized onion cut in
+slices. When the onion is browned remove it from the butter and dilute
+in the latter a teaspoonful of flour. When the flour begins to brown,
+thin it with one or two cups of soup stock hot and passed through a
+sieve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.
+
+When the sauce is prepared place the tongue in the saucepan containing
+it and let it cook again on a low fire for about an hour, turning it
+over frequently and keeping it moistened with the gravy. Cut some olives
+in a spiral to remove the stone and place it in the saucepan with the
+tongue. This becomes more tasty if left with the olives for one or two
+days.
+
+
+156
+
+STEWED BEEF TONGUE
+
+(Lingua di bue in stufato)
+
+Clean a fresh tongue of beef; put it in a plate, salt it generously and
+put it back in the ice-box or in the pantry, until the following day.
+
+After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling water, skin and lard with
+little pieces of bacon and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in
+which the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning consists of 1/2
+lb. bacon cut in very thin slices, 1/4 lb. butter, one or two thin
+slices of ham and two middle sized onions, sliced. Sprinkle the tongue
+with flour, surround it with chopped meat and place the saucepan on the
+fire. When the tongue begins to brown, pour five or six cups of soup
+stock and one cup of water. Add the usual bunch of greens, two or three
+cloves, salt, a pinch of pepper and one of cinnamon.
+
+Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four hours, rub the sauce
+through a sieve and serve everything hot.
+
+
+157
+
+VEAL SWEETBREADS
+
+(Animelle di vitello)
+
+Keep in fresh water for an hour. Then place them in a skimmer (ladle
+with holes) and dip in boiling water or broth. After a brief boiling
+remove and cool in cold water. Then remove the veins and gullet, taking
+care not to tear them. The sweetbreads are prepared in various ways and
+here we give some of the best known:
+
+=Sweetbreads with butter.=--Boil in broth or water, clean and cut into
+slices. Brown a piece of butter with salt and pepper. Then place the
+sliced sweetbreads and brown them. Before serving squeeze on a little
+lemon juice. The sweetbreads prepared in this way are served preferably
+with rice or vegetables.
+
+=Sweetbreads with white sauce.=--Boiled, cleaned and cut into slices,
+they are placed in white sauce or =balsamella= (No. 54) adding a taste
+of nutmeg, pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon.
+
+=Sweetbreads in fricassee.=--Boil, trim and cut into pieces. Then brown
+in butter with a scallion chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the
+gravy in which pour a tablespoonful of flour, moistened with broth. The
+sauce that results is bound with egg-yolks and lemon juice.
+
+=Sweetbreads fried.=--Boil and trim. Then cut in large slices, neither
+too thick nor too thin. Dip in beaten egg and in bread crumbs ground.
+Then fry in butter. Serve with vegetables.
+
+
+158
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES
+
+(Filetto alla piemontese)
+
+Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little skins. Then sprinkle
+with nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and place in an earthen vase
+covered, together with a bunch of aromatic herbs, sage, parsley,
+rosemary, onion, carrot and celery, all chopped fine. After a few hours
+melt and brown a piece of butter with the aromatic herbs, then remove
+the latter and place the tenderloin, leaving it to simmer for half an
+hour, pricking it often with a large fork or a larding pin, to add its
+juice to the gravy. Serve hot.
+
+
+159
+
+STUFFED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle ripiene)
+
+Boil six large onions for an hour. Then drain and skin. Remove the heart
+with the point of a knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing
+made with 1/4 lb. ham or tongue, chopped and mixed with bread crumbs
+ground, two tablespoonfuls of milk, two pinches of salt and one of
+pepper. When the onions are prepared and stuffed place them in a
+saucepan whose bottom has been greased with butter, sprinkle with bread
+crumbs ground and place in the oven, not too hot. At the time of serving
+add some white sauce or =balsamella= (No 54). Stuffed onions are served
+as vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or boiled-beef.
+
+
+160
+
+STEWED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle in stufato)
+
+Keep in cold water, for half an hour, two pounds of middle-sized onions.
+Afterward skin and place in a saucepan in which pour as much broth as is
+necessary to cover them. Let them cook on a low fire for an hour, if
+they are scallions, or young onions. If they are not, two hours are not
+enough, sometimes.
+
+When cooked and soft, drain and place in a large deep dish. Brown a
+piece of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, a cup of broth, salt and
+pepper. Mix everything and when it begins to boil pour the sauce on the
+onions, which must be served hot.
+
+
+161
+
+VEAL LIVER
+
+(Fegato di vitella alla veneziana)
+
+Brown a large onion cut in thin slices in oil and place in the saucepan
+the liver cut in thin slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When
+the liver takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is overdone, it
+becomes too hard. Salt just before removing from the saucepan.
+
+
+162
+
+FRIED LIVER
+
+(Fegato al tegame)
+
+Clean and trim the liver, then cut in slices half an inch thick. Dip in
+flour and place, without delay in a saucepan in which a small onion has
+been browned in butter. Salt just before serving.
+
+
+163
+
+POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta colle salsicce)
+
+The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern Italy and can be
+prepared in various ways. Always, however, it is better to serve with
+the addition of sausages, or with birds or tomato paste.
+
+The =polenta= is practically cornmeal and it is made with the so-called
+=farina gialla= or yellow flour.
+
+The ingredients for a good polenta are one pound of corn meal,
+preferably granulous, one quart and a half of water, salted in
+proportion, one piece of butter, one cup and a half of milk.
+
+Pour the meal little by little into boiling water, continually stirring
+with a wooden spoon. When the meal is half cooked, put the butter and
+pour the milk little by little. While the =polenta= boils, place on the
+fire in a little saucepan a tablespoonful of olive oil or a small piece
+of butter. When the oil is hot or the butter is melted, put some
+sausages repeatedly pricked with a fork.
+
+When the sausages are cooked, pour the polenta hot in a dish and place
+the sausages and the gravy in a cavity practised in the middle. Serve
+hot.
+
+In cooking the sausages two or three bay-leaves may be added and removed
+before serving.
+
+
+164
+
+SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS
+
+(Salsicce alla cipollata)
+
+The =salsicce alla cipollata= are prepared with fresh and lean pork meat
+and bacon in equal quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with salt,
+pepper and spices. Add a proportional quantity of onions chopped very
+fine, not too much, however. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails,
+tie every two inches to divide the sausages.
+
+
+CELERY
+
+(Sedano)
+
+Beside being used as a condiment with a great quantity of dishes, the
+celery may be prepared in various different ways to form appetizing
+vegetable dishes. We give here a certain number of those that appear
+most commonly on Italian tables:
+
+
+165
+
+CELERY WITH BUTTER
+
+(Sedano al burro)
+
+Two heads of celery for each person.
+
+Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are too hard, and the leaves,
+that are to be cut where they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem.
+Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain and put to boil in salted
+boiling water. Remove when cooked and drain again.
+
+About three quarters of an hour before serving, melt a piece of butter
+in a saucepan and brown the celery, turning them often for about ten
+minutes. After that pour over hot stock (soup stock or chicken broth)
+cover the saucepan and parboil. A few moments before serving season with
+brown stock, if you have any at hand, otherwise with salt and pepper
+only.
+
+
+166
+
+CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Sedano al sugo)
+
+Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor too soft, and cut them
+about four inches from the root. Remove the green and hard branches and
+trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. Scald the celery, after
+washing well, in salted boiling water. Ten minutes will be sufficient.
+Dip in cold water, open well the leaves and wash again carefully. Drain
+and make bunches of two or three heads each that you will put in a
+saucepan with a pint of broth or water and half a cup of good fat, onion
+and carrot chopped, salt and pepper. Cover and let it simmer for about
+two hour. Then remove the celery, drain and serve.
+
+
+167
+
+SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Salsa per sedani al sugo)
+
+The celery, prepared as above, are seasoned with the following sauce:
+Make a =roux= melting a piece of butter and browning an equal weight of
+flour; stir for about three minutes on the fire, after which thin the
+roux with a little brown stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in water.
+Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub through a sieve, pour
+over the celery and serve very hot.
+
+
+168
+
+FRIED CELERY
+
+(Sedani fritti)
+
+This is a convenient way to prepare left-over celery that is still too
+good to be thrown away.
+
+Clean the left-over celery removing as best you can the sauce in which
+they were served, dip in frying paste (flour and egg) fry and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+169
+
+PURÉE OF CELERY
+
+(Macco di sedani)
+
+Take some big roots of celery, prepare as usual and wash in running
+water. Boil in salted water, crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a
+saucepan this purée, with a piece of butter, salt, flour and a little
+cream or milk. The milk may be substituted with good soup stock or brown
+stock. Just before serving add a little powdered sugar.
+
+
+170
+
+STEW
+
+(Stufato)
+
+The Italian =stufato= is somewhat different from the stewed meat that
+is known under the name of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French
+=daube= and is prepared in Italy in many different ways.
+
+An excellent =stufato= can be made in the following way: Chop fine two
+bunches of parsley, a small carrot, half a medium sized onion, a little
+piece of scallion and two bay-leaves. Brown with a good piece of butter
+in a saucepan in which one and a half tablespoonful of oil have been
+previously poured.
+
+The meat must have been prepared beforehand, that is to say washed,
+trimmed and larded. When half cooked, season moderately with salt and
+pepper. If necessary, moisten with broth or water. During the cooking
+the saucepan must be covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper
+greased with fat or oil. The stufato will be ready after about three
+hours' cooking on a low fire.
+
+
+171
+
+SOUTHERN STEW
+
+(Stufato Meridionale)
+
+Put the piece of meat in a saucepan of such a size that it remains
+completely filled, moisten with two cups of water and two of white wine,
+season with salt and pepper and cook for five hours on a low fire.
+
+
+172
+
+STEW MILANAISE
+
+(Stufato alla milanese)
+
+Beat and flatten a good piece of meat and lard with bacon or ham cut in
+small pieces. Season with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Sprinkle
+flour over the meat.
+
+Place in a saucepan a little fat of beef chopped with a middle sized
+onion and brown with a piece of butter. When the onion is browned,
+remove it and place the meat over the melted butter. Brown with melted
+butter. Then fill the saucepan with half water, half red wine, but only
+when the meat is browned from all sides. Cover the saucepan the best you
+can, with cover and greased paper and let it simmer for five or six
+hours on a very low fire.
+
+After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the gravy through a sieve, put
+again on the fire and serve hot.
+
+
+173
+
+FRENCH STEW
+
+(Stufato alla francese)
+
+Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer of thin slices of ham, on
+which place several little cubes also of bacon. In the middle place a
+bunch of parsley, and around this some cloves, half an onion sliced, a
+few carrots in little cubes several young onions, bay-leaf, salt, and
+pepper.
+
+On this bed lay the meat that may be larded with bacon or ham and
+seasoned with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Pour on the meat two
+cups of soup stock or water and one cup of white wine. Cover the
+saucepan hermetically and cook on a very low fire for five hours.
+
+When the stufato is to be served cold, the gravy is to be rubbed
+through a sieve before it gets cold.
+
+     =Note.=--In these and similar dishes we have indicated the use of
+     wine, which is a common ingredient, in small quantities in Italian
+     and French cooking. This, however, can always be dispensed with if
+     its taste is not appreciated, or for any other reason.
+
+
+174
+
+TROUT ALPINE
+
+(Trota all'alpigiana)
+
+These are many ways to prepare this delicious fish, found in abundance
+in the many streams of clear water that run from the Alps and the
+Apennine mountains. Often the trout is cooked in wine, but, of course,
+this part many be changed.
+
+For the =trota all'alpigiana=, so called because it is the favorite dish
+of Piedmont, the trout must be cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then
+salted and left under the action of the salt for about an hour.
+
+Pour in a fish-kettle one quart of white wine to which will be added
+three medium sized onions a few cloves, two sections of garlic and a
+little bunch made of thyme, bay-leaf, basil or mint; finally a piece of
+butter as large as an egg, dipped in flour. Then put the trout in the
+fish-kettle and place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled the
+trout is cooked. Remove the onions and the bunch of greens and serve the
+trout with its gravy and some parsley.
+
+
+175
+
+TROUT LOMBARD
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Clean, scale, wash and wipe the trout. Salt and leave for half an hour.
+Fill with water half a fish-kettle; add half a lemon, two bay-leaves,
+one carrot light or ten berries of pepper, one onion divided into four
+parts, salt and three cloves. When the water is lukewarm, dip in the
+trout. Cook on a moderate fire and serve the trout with parsley, slices
+of lemon and young potatoes boiled. A good fish-sauce ought to accompany
+it.
+
+
+176
+
+FRIED TROUT
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Small and young trouts are best for frying. Scale, clean, wash and wipe.
+Then dip in flour and fry like the other fish in oil or in butter. Serve
+with browned parsley and lemon.
+
+
+177
+
+TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES
+
+(Trota alle acciughe)
+
+Scale, clean wash and wipe the trouts. Cut the sides and place to pickle
+with salt, pepper berries, garlic, parsley and onions chopped fine; with
+mushrooms chopped fine with thyme, bay-leaf and mint, all seasoned with
+good olive oil. Rub the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and
+the trout in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve with anchovy
+sauce (No. 17).
+
+
+178
+
+EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Uova trippate)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, shell and cut into disks one third of an
+inch thick.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter in which brown half an onion cut
+into thin slices, to be removed from the butter when browned. Then add
+to the butter two teaspoonfuls of flour, mix but don't allow to brown,
+thin with a cup of hot broth, add salt and pepper and let simmer for ten
+minutes. Put the sliced eggs in the sauce to warm them, stir a little,
+but carefully to avoid breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before
+serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of cream and stir carefully.
+
+
+179
+
+EGGS WITH HAM
+
+(Uova al prosciutto)
+
+Place in a frying pan as many pieces of butter, large like a nut, as
+there are eggs to be cooked. For each piece of butter put a little slice
+of ham and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as the butter is
+melted break an egg on each slice of ham. Let cook for ten minutes on a
+moderate fire.
+
+
+180
+
+EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Uova al pomidoro)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, cut them through the middle lengthwise,
+place in good order upon a plate and pour some good tomato sauce, taking
+care not to cover the upper part of the eggs, which must emerge from the
+sauce.
+
+Instead of the tomato, the eggs may be arranged with a =balsamella=
+sauce (No. 54).
+
+
+181
+
+SCRAMBLED EGGS
+
+(Uova strapazzate)
+
+Break the eggs in a plate, assuring first that they are all fresh.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter about as big as an egg. When it is
+melted pour the egg and scramble them with a fork on a low fire.
+
+When the eggs are cooked season moderately with salt and butter. Just
+when you take them away from the fire and before serving add a
+tablespoonful of milk or liquid cream. Serve hot with a little grated
+cheese.
+
+The scrambled eggs can be served with points of asparagus, truffles,
+mushrooms, etc. which are prepared just as if they were to go in an
+omelet.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, SYRUPS
+
+
+182
+
+PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS
+
+(Budino di nocciuole)
+
+Shell half a pound of hazelnuts in warm water and dry them well at the
+sun or on the fire, then grind them very fine, together with sugar, of a
+weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one quart of milk on the fire,
+and when it begins to boil, put two third lb. lady fingers or macaroons
+crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding a small piece of
+butter. Rub everything through a sieve and put back on the fire with the
+nuts to dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs, first the
+yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a mold greased with butter and
+sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not be all full.
+Bake in the oven and serve cold.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten persons.
+
+
+183
+
+CRISP BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti croccanti)
+
+  One pound of flour.
+  Half a pound granulated sugar.
+  1/4 lb. sweet almonds, whole and shelled, mixed to a few pine-seeds.
+  A piece of butter, one and a half ounce.
+  A pinch of anise-seeds.
+  Five eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Leave back the almonds and pine-seeds to add them afterward, and mix
+everything with four eggs, so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to
+make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half an inch thick and as
+large as a hand, place them in a receptacle greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs. Bake in the
+oven, but only as much as will still permit cutting the cakes into
+slices, which you will do the day after, as the crust will then be
+softened. Put the slices back in the oven, so that they will be toasted
+on both sides and you will have the crisp biscuits.
+
+
+184
+
+SOFT BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti teneri)
+
+For these biscuits it would be necessary to have a tin box about four
+inches wide and a little less long than the oven used. In this way the
+biscuits will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little more than
+half an inch, they will be of the right proportion. The ingredients
+needed are:
+
+  Flour, about two ounces.
+  Potato meal, a little less.
+  Sugar, four ounces (1/4 lb.)
+  Sweet almonds 1-1/2 ounce.
+  Candied orange or angelica, one ounce.
+  Fruit preserve, one ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+
+Skin the almonds, cut them in half lengthwise and dry in the sun or at
+the fire. Pastry cooks usually leave them with the skin but it is much
+preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the candied fruits and the
+preserve.
+
+Stir for a long while, about half an hour the sugar in the egg-yolks and
+a little flour then add the white of the eggs well beaten and when every
+thing is well beaten add the flour, letting it fall from a sieve. Mix
+slowly and scatter on the mixing the almonds and the cubes of candied
+and preserved fruit. Grease and sprinkle the tin box with flour. Bake in
+the oven and cut the biscuits the day after. If desired these can also
+be roasted on both sides.
+
+
+185
+
+BISCUITS SULTAN
+
+(Biscotto alla sultana)
+
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces.
+  Flour, four ounces.
+  Potato meal, two ounces.
+  Currants, three ounces.
+  Candied fruits, one ounce.
+  Five eggs.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+  Two tablespoonfuls of brandy.
+
+Put first on the fire the currants and the candied fruits cut in very
+little cubes with as much brandy or cognac as is necessary to cover
+them: when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn out of the fire
+until the liquor is all consumed: then remove the currants and candy and
+let them dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour the sugar
+with the egg-yolks and the taste of lemon peel. Beat well the white of
+the eggs and pour them on the sugar and yolks. Add the flour and potato
+meal letting them fall from a sieve and stir slowly until everything is
+well mixed together. Add the currants and the pieces of candied fruits
+and pour the mixing in a smooth mold or in a high and round cake-dish.
+Grease the mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar
+or flour. Put at once in the oven to avoid that the currants and the
+candied fruits fall in the oven.
+
+
+186
+
+MARGHERITA CAKE
+
+(Pasta Margherita)
+
+  Potato meal, three ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Lemon juice.
+
+Beat well the egg-yolks with the sugar, add the potato meal and the
+lemon juice and stir everything for half an hour. Finally beat well the
+whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually but slowly. Pour the
+mixture in a smooth and round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled
+with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven.
+
+Remove from the mold when cold and dust with powdered sugar and vanilla.
+
+
+187
+
+MANTUA TART
+
+(Torta Mantovana)
+
+  Flour, six ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Butter, five ounces.
+  Sweet almonds and pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  One whole egg.
+  Four egg-yolks.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First work well with a ladle the eggs with the sugar, then pour the
+flour little by little, still stirring, and finally the butter,
+previously melted in a double steamer (bain-marie). Put the mixture in a
+pie-dish greased with butter and sprinkled with flour or bread crumbs
+ground. On top put the almonds and the pine-seeds. Cut the latter in
+half and cut the almonds, previously skinned in warm water, each in
+eight or ten pieces. This tart must not be thicker than one inch, so
+that it can dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot.
+
+Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold.
+
+
+188
+
+CURLY TART
+
+(Torta ricciolina)
+
+  Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones, four ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces,
+  Candied fruits or angelica, 2-1/2 ounces,
+  Butter, two ounces,
+  Lemon peel.
+
+Mix two eggs with flour, flatten the paste to a thin sheet on a bread
+board and cut into thin noodles. In a corner of the bread board make a
+heap of the almonds with the sugar, the candied fruit cut in pieces and
+the grated lemon peel. All this cut and crush so as to reduce the
+mixture in little pieces. Then take a pie-dish and without greasing it,
+spread a layer of noodles on the bottom, then pour part of the mixture,
+then another layer of noodles and continue until there remains no more
+material, trying to have the tart at least one inch thick. When it is so
+prepared cover with the melted butter, using a brush to apply it evenly.
+
+
+189
+
+ALMOND CAKE
+
+(Bocca di dama)
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Very fine Hungarian flour, five ounces,
+  Sweet almonds with some bitter ones, two ounces,
+  Six whole eggs and three egg yolks,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+After skinning the almonds in warm water and drying them well, grind or
+better pound them well together with a tablespoonful of sugar and mix
+well with the flour. Put the rest of the sugar in a deep dish with the
+egg yolks and the grated lemon peel (just a taste) and stir with a ladle
+for a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the six whites of egg and
+when they have become quite thick mix them with other ingredients
+stirring slowly everything together.
+
+To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin greased evenly with butter and
+sprinkled with powdered sugar and flour.
+
+
+190
+
+CORN MEAL CAKES
+
+(Pasta di farina gialla)
+
+  Corn meal, seven and a half ounces,
+  Wheat flour, five and a half ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, five and a half ounces,
+  Butter, three and a half ounces,
+  Lard, two ounces,
+  A pinch of anise seed,
+  One egg.
+
+Mix together the corn meal, the flour and the anise seed and knead with
+the butter, the lard and the egg that quantity that you can, forming a
+loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to be kneaded with water
+forming another loaf. Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not
+much because the dough must remain soft. Flatten with the rolling pin
+until it becomes one quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with flour, and
+cut in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.
+
+Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with flour, glaze with the egg,
+bake and dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+191
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Biscotto)
+
+  Six eggs,
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Flour, four ounces,
+  Potato meal, two ounces,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and
+a tablespoonful only of the flour and meal, using a ladle. Beat the
+whites of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly with the first
+mixture and when they are well incorporated pour over from a sieve the
+flour and the potato meal, previously dried in the sun or on the fire.
+
+Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about one inch and a half thick,
+previously greasing the tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered
+sugar mixed with flour.
+
+In these cakes with beaten whites the following method can also be
+followed: mix and stir first the yolks with the sugar, then put the
+flour then, after a good kneading, beat the whites until they are firm,
+pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the mixture, then the rest little by
+little.
+
+
+192
+
+CAKE MADELEINE
+
+(Pasta Maddalena)
+
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces,
+  Flour, three ounces,
+  Butter, one ounce,
+  Egg-yolks, four,
+  Whites of eggs, three,
+  A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda,
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and when they have become
+whitish, add the flour and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the
+butter, melting or softening it fine if it is hard and finally add the
+whites when they are well beaten. The flour must be previously dried in
+the sun or on the fire.
+
+This cake may be given different shapes, but keep it always thin and in
+little volume. It can be put in little molds greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it not more than
+half an inch thick, and cutting it after baking in the shape of diamonds
+and dusting with powdered sugar.
+
+
+193
+
+ALMOND CRISP-TART
+
+(Croccante)
+
+  Sweet almonds, four and a half ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, three and a half ounces.
+
+Skin the almonds, divide the two parts and cut each part into small
+pieces. Put these almonds so cut at the fire and dry them until they
+take a yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put the sugar on the
+fire in a saucepan and, when it is perfectly melted, pour the almonds
+hot and already slightly browned. Now lower the fire and be careful not
+to allow the compound to be overdone. The precise point is known when
+the mixture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little by little in a
+cold mold, previously greased with butter or oil. Press with a lemon
+against the walls of the mold, making the mixture as thin as possible.
+Remove from the mold when perfectly cooled and, if it is difficult to do
+so, dip the mold in boiling water.
+
+The almonds can also be dried in the sun and chopped fine, adding a
+small piece of butter when they are in the sugar.
+
+
+194
+
+WAFER BISCUITS
+
+(Cialdoni)
+
+Put in a kettle:
+
+  Flour, three ounces.
+  Brown sugar, one ounce.
+  Lard virgin, half an ounce.
+  Cold water, seven tablespoonfuls.
+
+First dilute the flour and the sugar in the water, then add the lard.
+
+Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an appropriated iron for
+flattened wafers. When it is quite hot open it and place each time half
+a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press well. Pass over
+the fire on both sides, trim all around with a knife and open the iron
+when you see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it from one side of
+the iron and hot as it is roll it on the iron itself or on a napkin
+using a little stick. This operation must be made with great rapidity
+because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot be rolled.
+
+Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, grease it from time to
+time, and if they are not firm enough, add a little flour.
+
+These wafer-biscuits are generally served with whipped cream.
+
+
+195
+
+QUINCE CAKE
+
+(Cotognata)
+
+The ingredients are about six pounds of quinces and four pounds of
+granulated sugar.
+
+Put on the fire the apples covered with water, and when they begin to
+crack remove them, skin and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the
+latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the fire with the sugar and
+stir continually in order that it may not attack to the bottom of the
+kettle. It will be enough to boil for seven or eight minutes and remove
+when it begins to form pieces when lifted with the ladle.
+
+Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread it on a board to the
+thickness of about a silver dollar and dry it in the sun covered with
+cheese cloth to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut it in the form
+of chocolate tablets and remove each piece from the board passing the
+blade of a knife underneath.
+
+If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about three and a half pounds of
+granulated sugar with two tablespoonfuls of water and when the sugar has
+boiled enough to "make the thread" smear every one of the little quince
+cakes with it. If the sugar becomes too hard during the operation put it
+back on the fire with a little water and make it boil again. When the
+sugar is dry on one side and on the edge, smear the other side.
+
+
+196
+
+PORTUGUESE CAKE
+
+(Focaccia alla Portoghese)
+
+  Sweet almonds, five ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, five ounces.
+  Potato meal, one and a half ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+  One big orange or two small.
+
+First mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, then add the flour, then
+the almonds skinned and chopped fine, then the orange juice (through a
+colander) then a taste of orange peel. Finally add to the mixture the
+whites of the eggs well beaten. Put in a paper mold greased evenly with
+butter, with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a very moderately
+hot oven. After baked, cover with a white glaze or frost, made with
+powdered sugar, lemon juice and the white of eggs.
+
+
+197
+
+MACAROONS
+
+(Amaretti)
+
+I
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three and a half ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, half of the above quantity.
+  Whites of egg, two.
+
+Skin and dry the almonds, then chop them very fine. Mix the sugar and
+the whites of egg and stir for about half an hour, then add the almonds
+to form a rather hard paste. Of this make little balls, as large as a
+small walnut. If the paste is too soft add a little butter, if too hard
+add a little white of egg, this time beaten. Were it desired to give the
+macaroons a brownish color, mix with the paste a little burnt sugar.
+
+As you form the little ball, that you will flatten to the thickness of
+one third of an inch, put them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with half flour and half
+powdered sugar. Dispose them at a certain distance from one another as
+they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty inside.
+
+Bake in an oven moderately hot.
+
+II
+
+  Powdered sugar, ten and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, one ounce.
+  Two whites of egg.
+
+Skin the almonds and dry them in the sun or on the fire, then chop and
+grind very fine with one white of egg poured in various times. When this
+is done, put half of the sugar, stirring and kneading with your hand.
+Then pour everything in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of the
+other white of egg, then the other half of the sugar and finally the
+other half of the white.
+
+In this way an homogenous mixture will be obtained of the right
+firmness. Shake into a kind of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal,
+one third of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with moistened
+fingers and make little balls as large as a walnut. Flatten them to the
+thickness of a third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said above,
+but dust with powdered sugar before putting in a hot oven.
+
+With this dose about thirty macarons can be obtained.
+
+
+198
+
+FARINA CAKES
+
+(Pasticcini di semolino)
+
+  Farina, six and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Four eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and when it begins to thicken pour the
+pine-seeds, previously chopped fine and pounded with the sugar, then the
+butter and the rest, less the eggs which must be put in last when the
+mixture has completely cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little
+molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, and bake.
+
+
+199
+
+RICE TART
+
+(Torta di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with four bitter ones, three and a half ounces.
+  Candied cedar (angelica), one ounce.
+  Three whole eggs.
+  Five egg-yolks.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind or pound them with two tablespoonfuls of the
+sugar.
+
+Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. Cook the rice in the milk
+until it is quite firm, put in all the ingredients except the eggs,
+which are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire mixture in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, harden in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into diamonds.
+When serving dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+200
+
+FARINA TART
+
+(Torta di semolino)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Farina finely ground, four and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with three bitter, three and a half ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds in warm water and ground or pound very fine with all
+the sugar, to be mixed one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and before removing from the fire add the
+butter and the almonds, which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the
+sugar. Then put the pinch of salt and wait until it becomes lukewarm to
+add the eggs that are to be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in
+a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprinkled with bread crumbs and
+of such a size that the tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put
+it in the oven, remove from the mold when cold and serve whole or cut
+into sections.
+
+
+201
+
+PUDDING OF RICE MEAL
+
+(Budino di farina di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice meal, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of vanilla.
+
+First dissolve the rice meal in half a pint of the milk when cold, and
+pour it in the rest of the milk when it is boiling. This is done to
+prevent the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked add the sugar,
+the butter and the salt. Remove from the fire and when it is lukewarm
+mix the eggs (beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake the pudding
+like all the others and serve warm.
+
+
+202
+
+BREAD PUDDING
+
+(Budino di pane)
+
+  Soft bread crumb, five ounces.
+  Butter, three and a half ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Cut the bread crumb into pieces and soak in cold milk. Then rub though a
+sieve. Melt the butter in a double boiler (in a vessel immersed in
+boiling water) and mix with the eggs until butter and eggs are
+incorporated to each other. Add the bread crumb and the sugar and mix
+well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with butter and sprinkled with
+bread crumb ground fine and bake like other puddings.
+
+
+203
+
+POTATO PUDDING
+
+(Budino di patate)
+
+  Potatoes, big and mealy, one and a half lb.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Butter, one and a half ounces.
+  Flour, a tablespoonful.
+  Milk, half a pint.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel.
+
+Boil or steam the potatoes, skin and rub through a sieve. Place them
+back again on the fire with the butter, the flour and the milk, all
+poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, then add the
+sugar, the salt and the cinnamon or lemon peel (just a taste) and mix
+everything together well. Remove from the fire and, when the mixture is
+lukewarm or cold add the eggs, first the yolks, then the whites beaten.
+
+Bake like all other puddings and serve hot.
+
+
+204
+
+LEMON PUDDING
+
+(Budino di limone)
+
+  One big lemon.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones, six ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+
+Cook the lemon in water, for which two hours will be enough. Remove dry
+and rub through a sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because if
+it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water until it has lost
+that unpleasant taste. Add the sugar, the almonds skinned and ground
+very fine and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and
+add them to the mixture that will then be put in a mold and baked like
+all other puddings.
+
+
+205
+
+PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS
+
+(Budino di mandorle tostate)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, two ounces.
+  Lady-finger biscuits, two ounces.
+  Three eggs.
+
+First prepare the almonds, that is to say skin them in warm water and
+toast them on the fire over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very
+fine. Boil the sugar and the lady-fingers, broken in little pieces in
+the milk, mixing well. After half an hour of boiling, keeping always
+stirred, rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the toasted and
+ground almonds. When it is cold add the beaten eggs, pour it in a smooth
+mold, whose bottom will be covered with a film of liquified sugar and
+cook in a double boiler, that is to say put the mold well closed in a
+kettle full of boiling water.
+
+When cooked let it cool and place in ice-box before serving.
+
+
+206
+
+CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER
+
+(Croccante a bagno maria)
+
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Egg-yolks, five.
+  Milk, one pint.
+
+Skin the almonds and chop them in little pieces about as big as a grain
+of wheat. Put on the fire two thirds of the sugar and when it is all
+melted pour the almonds and stir continually with the ladle until they
+have taken the color of cinnamon. Then put them in a tin greased with
+butter and when they are cold, pound them very fine with the remaining
+third of sugar.
+
+Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and pour the mixture in a mold
+with a hole in the middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the mold
+in a double boiler so that it will be cooked by steam.
+
+
+206
+
+STUFFED PEACHES
+
+(Pesche ripiene)
+
+  Six big peaches not very ripe.
+  Four or five lady-finger biscuits.
+  Granulated sugar, three ounces.
+  Two ounces sweet almonds with three peach kernels.
+  Candied fruit (angelica) half an ounce.
+
+Cut the peaches in two parts, remove the stones and enlarge somewhat the
+cavity where they were with the point of a knife. Mix the peach pulp
+that you extract with the almonds, already skinned, and grind the pulp
+and almonds very fine together with two ounces of the sugar. To this
+mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed and the candied fruits. Cut in very
+small cubes. This will be the stuffing with which you will fill the
+cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These you will place in a row in
+a baking tin, with the stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of sugar
+and bake in oven with a moderate fire.
+
+
+207
+
+MILK GNOCCHI
+
+(Gnocchi di latte)
+
+  One quart of milk.
+  Sugar, nine ounces.
+  Starch in powder, four ounces.
+  Eight yolks of eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Mix everything together as you would do for a cream and put on the fire
+in a saucepan, continually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture has
+become hard keep it a few moments more on the fire and then pour it in a
+plate to make it about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds when
+it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the other with symmetry in a
+baking tin or in a fireproof glass plate, with some little pieces of
+butter in between and brown them a little in the oven. Serve hot.
+
+
+208
+
+SABAYON
+
+(Zabaione)
+
+  Yolks of three eggs.
+  Granulated sugar, two ounces.
+  Marsala or sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls.
+  A dash of cinnamon.
+
+First stir with the ladle the yolks and the sugar until they become
+almost white, then add the wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan
+in another one containing hot water and beat until the sugar is melted
+and the egg begins to thicken.
+
+
+SYRUPS
+
+(Sciroppi)
+
+The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with ice water are refreshing
+and pleasant beverages, greatly appreciated during the summer months. It
+is well, however, not to drink them until the digestion is completed,
+because they may disturb it, on account of the sugar that they contain.
+
+
+209
+
+RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di ribes)
+
+Remove the stems from the bunches of gooseberry and place them in an
+earthen vase, to be kept in a cool place. When it has begun to ferment
+(which may happen after three or four days) sink the surface film and
+stir with a ladle twice a day, continuing this operation until it has
+stopped raising. Then put in a cheese cloth, letting the juice come out
+through pressing with the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through
+a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you obtain a limpid
+liquid. Then put it on the fire and when it begins to boil pour in it
+granulated sugar and citric acid in the following proportions:
+
+  Liquid, six pounds.
+  Sugar, eight pounds.
+  Citric acid, one ounce.
+
+That is to say for each =three= parts of the liquid, add =four= parts of
+sugar, and =one= ounce of citric acid for =eight= pounds of sugar mixed
+with =six= pounds of liquid.
+
+Stir continually with the ladle so that the sugar does not stick to the
+bottom, taste it to add some more citric acid if you judge it necessary,
+then let it cool and place in bottles to be sealed.
+
+When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a tumbler less than half an
+inch of syrup for a tumblerful of ice water.
+
+
+210
+
+RASPBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di lampone)
+
+This is prepared like the other explained above but, since this fruit
+contains less gluten than the gooseberry the period of fermentation will
+be briefer. The large quantity of sugar used in these syrups is
+necessary for their conservation and the citric acid is used to correct
+the excessive sweetness.
+
+
+211
+
+LEMON SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di limone)
+
+  Three big lemons.
+  One and a half pound of sugar.
+  A tumbler of water.
+
+Skin the lemons, removing the internal pulp without squeezing it and
+taking off all seeds.
+
+Put the water on the fire with the skin of one of the lemons cut in a
+thin ribbon like strip with a small knife. When the water is near
+boiling put in the sugar then remove the lemon skin and immerse the pulp
+of the three lemons. Boil until the syrup is condensed and cooked right,
+which is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and the color of
+white wine that it acquires. Preserve in a bottle, and when needed,
+dilute in a tumbler of ice water. A small quantity will make a
+delightful beverage.
+
+
+212
+
+HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di amarena)
+
+Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be of the sour kind but, as
+said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into
+a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon. The fermentation will happen
+after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from
+time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a pressing
+machine if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a
+time in cheese cloth.--When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it
+until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the
+fire in the following proportion and with the piece of cinnamon that was
+already immersed in the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen
+pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, or three parts of liquid
+to four of sugar and the citric acid as in the above proportion.
+
+Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid wait until the liquid is
+quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must
+be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the sugar
+in the liquid.
+
+When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and
+bottle when quite cold. Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.
+
+
+213
+
+ORGEAT
+
+(Orzata)
+
+  Sweet almonds with 10 or 12 bitter ones, seven ounces.
+  Water, one and half pounds.
+  Granulated sugar, two pounds.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind them very fine, or better pound them in a
+mortar, moistening from time to time with orange flower water, of which
+you will use about two tablespoonfuls.
+
+When the almonds have been reduced to a paste, dissolve the latter in
+one third of the water and filter the juice through a cheese cloth,
+squeezing hard. Put the paste, back in the grinder or in the mortar,
+grind or pound again, then filter again with another third of the water.
+Repeat the same operation for a third time, then put on the fire the
+liquid so obtained and just before boiling put the sugar, mix, stir and
+boil for about twenty minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a
+cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the thick liquid may be
+diluted in water, half an inch for a whole tumbler of iced water.
+
+
+
+
+PRESERVES
+
+214
+
+APRICOT MARMALADE
+
+(Conserva di albicocche)
+
+Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to believe that jam or
+marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones,
+put them on the fire without water and while they boil, stir with a
+ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an
+hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from
+the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire
+with granulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say
+eight pounds of sugar for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with
+the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which
+will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and
+seeing that it flows slowly.
+
+When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases
+well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in
+alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.
+
+
+215
+
+PRESERVE OF QUINCE
+
+(Conserva di cotogne soda)
+
+The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with the core removed, and
+granulated sugar, in the proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five
+tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a half quinces for one
+part of sugar.
+
+Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass of water, boil a
+little, then remove from the fire and put aside.
+
+Cut the quinces--peeled and coreless--in very thin slices and put them
+on the fire with a glass of water, supposing the quantity to be about
+two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle,
+trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the quinces
+are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of sugar
+already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover
+removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins
+to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.
+
+Let it cool and put in well covered jars.
+
+
+
+
+ICES
+
+(Gelati)
+
+Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice
+cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European
+capitals it is the Italian =gelatiere= who prepares the frozen delicacy.
+A few Italian recipes of =gelati= will then be acceptable, we believe,
+as a conclusion to this little work.
+
+
+216
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Pezzo in gelo)
+
+Make a cream with:
+
+  Water, five ounces.
+  Sugar, two ounces.
+  The yolks of four eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to
+the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about
+five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in a mold and pack in salt
+and ice.
+
+Keep in ice for about three hours.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.
+
+
+217
+
+LEMON ICE
+
+(Gelato di limone)
+
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, a pint.
+  Lemons, three (good sized).
+
+Boil the sugar in the water, with some little pieces of lemon peel, for
+about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold,
+squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the
+degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with salt
+and ice.
+
+
+218
+
+STRAWBERRY ICE
+
+(Gelato di fragola)
+
+  Ripe strawberries, 3/4 lb.
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, one pint.
+  A big lemon.
+  An orange.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub
+through a sieve the strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the
+orange: add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the
+mixture in the freezer.
+
+
+219
+
+ORANGE ICE
+
+(Gelato di aranci)
+
+  Four big oranges.
+  One lemon.
+  One pint of water.
+  Sugar, 3/4 lb.
+
+Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain the juice.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold,
+strain again and put in the freezer.
+
+
+220
+
+PISTACHE ICE CREAM
+
+(Gelato di pistacchi)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Pistaches, two ounces.
+
+Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind them very fine with a
+tablespoonful of the sugar, then put in a saucepan with the yolks and
+the sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk and put the mixture
+on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream,
+let it cool and put in the freezer.
+
+
+221
+
+TUTTI FRUTTI
+
+To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin
+receptacle that can be closed hermetically.
+
+Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good
+quality, that is to say, strawberries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big
+peach, a good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, skin and
+remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very
+thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.
+
+When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over
+one fifth of its weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one lemon.
+Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.
+
+Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with
+the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it
+for two hours or a little less.
+
+This is not the =tutti frutti= ice cream as is known in America, but a
+=macédoine= of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the
+summer months.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES
+
+                                            Page
+
+  African hen, 143                           103
+
+  Almond, cake, 189                          129
+    crisp cake, 193                          133
+    (roasted) pudding, 205                   143
+
+  Anchovy sauce, 14                           16
+
+  Apricot marmelade, 214                     151
+
+  Artichokes, with butter, 31                27
+    fried, 28                                 25
+    in mold, 96                               73
+    steamed, 29                               26
+    stewed, 30                                27
+    stuffed, 105                              78
+    stuffed with meat, 106                    79
+    with sauce, 104                           78
+
+  Asparagus, 114                              85
+
+
+  Balsamella, sauce, 59                       46
+
+  Bean soup, 7                                 9
+
+  Birds, 132                                  95
+
+  Biscuit, 191                               131
+
+  Biscuit (ice), 216                         153
+
+  Biscuit, crisp, 183                        124
+    soft, 184                                125
+    sultan, 185                              126
+    wafer, 194                               134
+
+  Blackberry syrup, 212                      149
+
+  Bread soup, 3                                7
+
+  Breast of Veal stuffed, 80                  62
+
+  Brittle (see crisp cake)
+
+  Broth, 1                                     5
+
+  Brown stock, 13                             15
+
+
+  Cabbage, stuffed, 112                       83
+
+  Cake, almond, 189                          129
+    corn meal, 190                           130
+    crisp, 206                               144
+    Madeleine, 192                           132
+    Margherita, 186                          127
+    portugaise, 196                          136
+    quince, 195                              135
+
+  Cakes, farina, 198                         138
+
+  Caper Sauce, 57                             45
+
+  Cappelletti, soup, 2                         6
+
+  Cauliflower, in mold, 95                    72
+    with balsamella, 111                      83
+
+  Celery, au jus, 166                        116
+    dressing 103                              77
+    fried, 168                               117
+    purée, 169                               117
+    sauce for, 167                           116
+    with butter, 165                         115
+
+  Chicken alla cacciatora, 35                 30
+    boned and stuffed, 40                     33
+    breasts sauté, 45                         37
+    fried, 34                                 29
+    sauté, 142                               102
+    stuffed, 139                             100
+    stuffing, 64                              51
+    with ham, 141                            102
+    with egg sauce, 44                        37
+    with sausages, 43                         36
+    with sherry, 42                           36
+    with tomatoes, 41                         35
+    with sauce piquante, 140                 101
+
+  Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123               90-91
+    croquettes, 125                           91
+    fried, 124                                91
+
+  Corn meal, cake, 190                       130
+    pie, 37                                   31
+    with sausages, 36                         30
+
+  Crisp cake in double boiler, 206           144
+
+  Croquettes, fried, 67                       53
+
+  Curly tart, 188                            129
+
+  Currant, syrup, 209                        146
+
+  Cutlets, chopped meat, 74                   58
+    veal, 75                                  58
+    stewed, 73                                57
+    stuffed, 76, 138                       59-99
+
+
+  Dog fish, fried, 126                        92
+    stewed, 127                               92
+
+  Duck, tame, 144                            104
+    wild, 46                                  38
+
+
+  Eels, stewed, 118                           88
+    with peas, 119                            88
+
+  Eggs, scrambled, 181                       123
+    with ham, 179                            122
+    with onion sauce, 178                    122
+    with tomato sauce, 180                   123
+
+  Egg-plants, fried, 100                      75
+    in the oven, 102                          76
+    stewed, 101                               76
+
+
+  Farina, cakes, 198                         138
+    tart, 200                                139
+
+  Fish, with bread crumbs, 115                86
+    cutlets, stewed, 116                      86
+
+  Fry, Roman, 68, 69                       54-55
+
+
+  Gnocchi, 4                                   7
+    milk, 207                                145
+
+
+  Hare, roast, 135                            97
+    stewed, 51                                42
+
+
+  Ices, biscuits, 216                        153
+    lemon, 217                               153
+    orange, 219                              154
+    pistache, 220                            155
+    strawberry, 218                          154
+    tutti frutti, 221                        155
+
+
+  Kidney, broiled, 152                       108
+    fried, 153                               108
+    sauté, 71                                 56
+    sliced 151                               107
+    with anchovy, 150                        107
+    omelet, 61                                48
+
+
+  Lamb, leg of, 147                          105
+    omelet, 33                                29
+    shoulder, 79                              61
+    roast, 133                                96
+    with peas, 78                             61
+
+  Lemon, ice, 217                            153
+    pudding, 204                             142
+    syrup, 211                               148
+
+  Lentils, soup, 9                            10
+
+  Liver, loaf, 89                             68
+
+
+  Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20                   20
+    fried with oil, 21                        21
+    au gratin, 19                             19
+    a la Corinna, 18                          18
+    with anchovy sauce, 17                    18
+    with butter and cheese, 15                17
+    with tomato sauce or brown stock, 16      18
+
+  Macaroons, 197                             136
+
+  Madeleine cake, 192                        132
+
+  Mantona tart, 187                           128
+
+  Margherita cake, 186                       127
+
+  Marmelade, apricot, 214                    151
+
+  Meat, Genovese, 86                          65
+    Omelet, 77                                60
+    stuffing, 65                              52
+
+  Milk gnocchi, 207                          145
+
+  Minestrone, 9                               11
+
+  Mushrooms, dried, 99                        74
+    fried, 97                                 73
+    stewed, 98                                74
+
+  Mussels, with egg sauce, 120                89
+    with tomato sauce, 121                    89
+
+  Mutton, cutlets, 84                         54
+    leg of, 72, 134                        57-96
+
+
+  Omelet, curled, 60                          47
+    lamb, 33                                  29
+    veal kidney, 61                           48
+
+  Onions, stewed, 160                        112
+    stuffed, 159                             112
+
+  Orange, ice, 219                           154
+
+  Orgeat, syrup, 213                         150
+
+
+  Panata, 3                                    7
+
+  Paste for frying, 63                        50
+
+  Pavese soup, 10                             11
+
+  Peaches, stuffed, 206                      144
+
+  Peas, with corned beef, 109                 82
+    with ham, 108                             81
+    with onion sauce, 117                     80
+
+  Pigeon, surprise, 137                       98
+    broiled, 148                             106
+    (See Squabs)
+
+  Pistache, ice, 220                         155
+
+  Polenta pie, 37                             31
+    with sausages, 36, 163                30-113
+
+  Polpettone, 77                              60
+
+  Pork liver fried, 66                        53
+    roast, 146                               105
+
+  Portuguese cake, 196                       136
+
+  Pot-roast, 130                              94
+    with garlic, 131                          95
+    larded, 136                               98
+
+  Potato pudding, 203                        141
+
+  Preserve, quince, 215                      151
+
+  Pudding, bread, 202                        141
+    Genovese, 88                              67
+    hazelnuts, 182                           124
+    lemon, 204                               142
+    potato, 203                              141
+    rice meal, 201                           140
+    roasted almonds, 205                     143
+
+  Puff Paste, 62                              48
+
+
+  Quince, cake, 195                          135
+    preserve, 215                            151
+
+
+  Rabbit, stewed, 52                          42
+
+  Raspberry syrup, 210                       148
+
+  Ravioli, 10                                 11
+
+  Rice, cakes, 27                             25
+    meal pudding, 201                        140
+    pancakes, 70                              55
+    pudding with giblets, 87                  66
+    tart, 199                                139
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Risotto Milanaise, 22                       22
+    with chicken giblets, 23                  22
+    with lobster, 25                          23
+    with peas, 24                             23
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Roast-beef, 128                             93
+
+  Rolls, stuffed, 38                          32
+
+  Roman fry, 68, 69                        54-55
+
+
+  Sabayon, 208                               146
+
+  Salmi of game, 50                           41
+
+  Sauce, anchovy, 13                          15
+    balsamella, 59                            46
+    brown stock, 12                           14
+    caper, 57                                 45
+    for broiled fish, 56                      45
+    green, 53                                 43
+    Genovese, 58                              46
+    tomato, 12                                14
+    white, 54                                 43
+    yellow, 55                                44
+
+  Sausages with corn meal, 163               113
+    with onions, 164                         114
+
+  Soup, bean, 7                                9
+    bread, 7                                   9
+    cappelletti, 2                             6
+    lentils, 8                                10
+    Pavese, 11                                12
+    Queen, 6                                   9
+    stock, 1                                   5
+    vegetables, 5                              8
+
+  Spaghetti, 11-15                         13-17
+    (see _Macaroni_)
+
+  Spinach, side-dish, 113                     84
+
+  Squabs, ragout, 48                          39
+    stewed, 47                                39
+    timbale, 49                               40
+    (See =Pigeons=)
+
+  Squash, fried, 32                           28
+    stuffed, 91                               69
+
+  Steak in the saucepan, 149                 106
+
+  Stewed cutlets, 73                          57
+
+  Strawberry, ice, 218                       154
+
+  String beans in mold, 94                    71
+    sauté, 92                                 70
+    with egg sauce, 93                        71
+
+  Stufato, 170                               117
+    French, 173                              119
+    Milanaise, 172                           118
+    Southern, 171                            118
+
+  Stuffing, chicken, 64                       51
+    meat, 65                                  52
+
+  Sugo di carne, 13                           15
+
+  Sweet-breads, 157                           110
+
+  Syrup, hard blackberry, 212                149
+    lemon, 211                               148
+    orgeat, 213                              150
+    raspberry, 210                           148
+    red currant, 209                         146
+
+
+  Tart, curly, 188                           129
+    farina, 200                              139
+    Mantona, 187                             128
+    rice, 199                                139
+
+  Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85                65
+    with spices, 158                         111
+
+  Tomato sauce, 12                            14
+    stuffed, 110                              82
+
+  Tongue, boiled, 154                        108
+    stewed, 156                              109
+    with olives, 155                         109
+
+  Tripe with gravy, 82                        63
+
+  Trout, Alpine, 174                         120
+    fried, 176                               121
+    Lombard, 175                             121
+    with anchovies, 177                      121
+
+  Turkey, 145                                104
+
+  Tutti frutti, ice, 221                     155
+
+
+  Veal, breast, 80                            62
+    cutlets, 75                               58
+    kidney with anchovy, 150                 107
+    liver, 161                               113
+    fried, 162                               113
+    in gravy, 83                              63
+    kidney sliced, 151                       107
+
+  Veal, roast, 129                            94
+    stewed, 39                                32
+    with gravy, 81                            62
+    with tunny, 90                            68
+
+  Vegetable chowder, 10                       11
+    soup, 7                                    8
+
+
+  Wafer biscuits, 194                        134
+
+  Whiting with anchovy sauce, 117             87
+
+
+  Zabaione, 208                              146
+
+  Zucchine, 32                                28
+
+
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+  |Transcriber's Note:                                |
+  |                                                   |
+  |All grave accents in the original have been        |
+  |changed to acute and an acute accent has been      |
+  |added to Recipe No. 169 PUREE OF CELERY.           |
+  |                                                   |
+  |Inconsistencies in spelling between the main body  |
+  |and index have been retained, however typographical|
+  |typographical errors have been corrected in both.  |
+  |in both.                                           |
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
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