initial commit of ebook 25631HEADmain

1 files changed, 3966 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/25631.txt b/25631.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e599470
--- /dev/null
+++ b/25631.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,3966 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Poetical Cook-Book
+
+Author: Maria J. Moss
+
+Release Date: May 28, 2008 [EBook #25631]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POETICAL COOK-BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain material produced by
+Microsoft for their Live Search Books site.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+The original text used both symbol and numbered footnote markers. This
+text maintains the distinction. Obvious typographical errors have been
+corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text along
+with a list of inconsistently spelled words.
+
+
+
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+    We may live without poetry, music, and art;
+    We may live without conscience and live without heart;
+    We may live without friends; we may live without books;
+    But civilized man cannot live without _cooks_.
+    He may live without books--what is knowledge but grieving?
+    He may live without hope--what is hope but deceiving?
+    He may live without love--what is passion but pining?
+    But where is the man who can live without _dining_?
+                    OWEN MEREDITH'S "LUCILE."
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                    A
+           POETICAL COOK-BOOK.
+
+                    BY
+
+    [Illustration: Author's initials]
+
+
+    "I REQUEST you will prepare
+    To your own taste the bill of fare;
+    At present, if to judge I'm able,
+    The finest works are of the table.
+    I should prefer the cook just now
+    To Rubens or to Gerard Dow."
+
+
+              PHILADELPHIA:
+
+                [Colophon]
+
+  CAXTON PRESS OF C. SHERMAN, SON & CO.
+                  1864.
+
+
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864,
+
+BY MARIA J. MOSS,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+    "What's under this cover?
+        For cookery's a secret."--MOORE.
+
+When I wrote the following pages, some years back at Oak Lodge, as a
+pastime, I did not think it would be of service to my fellow-creatures,
+for our suffering soldiers, the sick, wounded, and needy, who have so
+nobly fought our country's cause, to maintain the flag of our great
+Republic, and to prove among Nations that a Free Republic is not a myth.
+With these few words I dedicate this book to the SANITARY FAIR to be
+held in Philadelphia, June, 1864.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+    Through tomes of fable and of dream
+    I sought an eligible theme;
+    But none I found, or found them shared
+    Already by some happier bard,
+    Till settling on the current year
+    I found the far-sought treasure near.
+    A theme for poetry, you see--
+    A theme t' ennoble even me,
+    In memorable forty-three.
+
+    Oh, Dick! you may talk of your writing and reading,
+    Your logic and Greek, but there is nothing like feeding.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Upon singing and cookery, Bobby, of course,
+    Standing up for the latter Fine Art in full force.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Are these the _choice dishes_ the Doctor has sent us?
+    Heaven sends us good meats, but the Devil sends cooks.
+    That my life, like the German, may be
+    "Du lit a la table, de la table au lit."--MOORE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE READER.
+
+
+    Though cooks are often men of pregnant wit,
+    Through niceness of their subject few have writ.
+    'Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks
+    Is lodg'd by nature or attain'd by books?
+    That man will never frame a noble treat,
+    Whose whole dependence lies in some _receipt_.
+    Then by pure nature everything is spoil'd,--
+    She knows no more than stew'd, bak'd, roast, and boil'd.
+    When art and nature join, the effect will be,
+    Some nice _ragout_, or _charming fricasee_.
+    What earth and waters breed, or air inspires,
+    Man for his palate fits by torturing fires.
+    But, though my edge be not too nicely set,
+    Yet I another's appetite may whet;
+    May teach him when to buy, when season's pass'd,
+    What's stale, what choice, what plentiful, what waste,
+    And lead him through the various maze of taste.
+    The fundamental principle of all
+    Is what ingenious cooks the _relish_ call;
+    For when the market sends in loads of food,
+    They all are tasteless till _that_ makes them good.
+    Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care,
+    To know for whom it is you would prepare.
+    You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother,
+    A testy father, or a haughty mother;
+    Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire,
+    Or else some smiles from court you would desire;
+    Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give,
+    To show the splendid state in which you live.
+    Pursuant to that interest you propose,
+    Must all your wines and all your meat be chose.
+    Tables should be like pictures to the sight,
+    Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light;
+    Some at a distance brighten, some near hand,
+    Where ease may all their delicace command;
+    Some should be moved when broken, others last
+    Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste.
+    Locket, by many labors feeble grown,
+    Up from the kitchen call'd his eldest son;
+    Though wise thyself (says he), though taught by me,
+    Yet fix this sentence in thy memory:
+    There are some certain things that don't excel,
+    And yet we say are tolerably well.
+    There's many worthy men a lawyer prize,
+    Whom they distinguish as of middle size,
+    For pleading well at bar or turning books;
+    But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks,
+    From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs,
+    To stall of garters, and to throne of kings.
+    A simple scene, a disobliging song,
+    Which no way to the main design belong,
+    Or were they absent never would be miss'd,
+    Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss'd;
+    So in a feast, no intermediate fault
+    Will be allow'd; but if not best, 'tis nought.
+    If you, perhaps, would try some dish unknown,
+    Which more peculiarly you'd make your own,
+    Like ancient sailors, still regard the coast,--
+    By venturing out too far you may be lost.
+    By roasting that which your forefathers boil'd,
+    And broiling what they roasted, much is spoil'd.
+    That cook to American palates is complete,
+    Whose savory hand gives turn to common meat.
+    Far from your parlor have your kitchen placed,
+    Dainties may in their working be disgraced.
+    In private draw your poultry, clean your tripe,
+    And from your eels their slimy substance wipe.
+    Let cruel offices be done by night,
+    For they who like the thing abhor the sight.
+    'Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please;
+    A kitchen will admit of no disease.
+    Were Horace, that great master, now alive,
+    A feast with wit and judgment he'd contrive,
+    As thus: Supposing that you would rehearse
+    A labor'd work, and every dish a verse,
+    He'd say, "Mend this and t'other line and this."
+    If after trial it were still amiss,
+    He'd bid you give it a new turn of face,
+    Or set some dish more curious in its place.
+    If you persist, he would not strive to move
+    A passion so delightful as self-love.
+    Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill,
+    Or in a prudent mixture show their skill.
+    Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few
+    Increase the appetite when choice and new.
+    E'en they who will extravagance profess,
+    Have still an inward hatred for excess.
+    Meat forced too much, untouch'd at table lies;
+    Few care for carving trifles in disguise,
+    Or that fantastic dish some call _surprise_.
+    When pleasures to the eye and palate meet,
+    That cook has render'd his great work complete;
+    His glory far, like _sirloin knighthood_[xi-1] flies
+    Immortal made, as _Kit-cat_ by his pies.
+    Next, let discretion moderate your cost,
+    And when you treat, three courses be the most.
+    Let never fresh machines your pastry try,
+    Unless grandees or magistrates are by,
+    Then you may put _a dwarf into a pie_.[xi-2]
+    Crowd not your table; let your number be
+    Not more than seven, and never less than three.
+    'Tis the _dessert_ that graces all the feast,
+    For an ill end disparages the rest.
+    A thousand things well done, and one forgot,
+    Defaces obligation by that blot.
+    Make your transparent sweetmeats truly nice
+    With Indian sugar and Arabian spice.
+    And let your various creams encircled be
+    With swelling fruit just ravish'd from the tree.
+    The feast now done, discourses are renewed,
+    And witty arguments with mirth pursued;
+    The cheerful master, 'midst his jovial friends,
+    His glass to their best wishes recommends.
+    The grace cup follows: To the President's health
+    And to the country; Plenty, Peace, and Wealth!
+    Performing, then, the piety of grace,
+    Each man that pleases reassumes his place;
+    While at his gate, from such abundant store,
+    He showers his godlike blessings on the poor.
+
+[Decorative illustration]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[xi-1] Charles I, dining one day off of a loin of beef, was so much
+pleased with it, knighted it.
+
+[xi-2] In the reign of Charles I, Jeffry Hudson (then seven or eight
+years old, and but eighteen inches in height) was served up to table in
+a cold pie at the Duke of Buckingham's, and as soon as he made his
+appearance was presented to the Queen.
+
+
+
+
+"Despise not my good counsel."
+
+MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
+
+FOR THE USE OF THE
+
+MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
+
+
+The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and
+good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior, and,
+consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
+may be avoided.
+
+Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and
+propriety of female arrangement, as to the knowledge and activity of the
+father.
+
+All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness,--sugars of
+different qualities should be broken; currants washed, picked and dry in
+a jar; spice pounded, &c. Every article should be kept in that place
+best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Vegetables
+will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded. Dried meats,
+hams, &c., the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, rice, &c., should
+be close-covered, to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a
+cool, perfectly dry room, and the bag being tied should be changed
+upside down and back every week, and well shaken. Carrots, parsnips, and
+beet-roots should be kept in sand for winter use, and neither they nor
+potatoes be cleared from the earth. Store onions preserve best hung up
+in a dry room. Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a
+musty taste. Tarragon gives the flavor of French cookery, and in high
+gravies should be added only a short time before serving.
+
+Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when
+herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.
+
+Celery seeds give the flavor of the plant to soups. Parsley should be
+cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very cool oven; it
+preserves its flavor and color, and is very useful in winter. Artichoke
+bottoms, which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper bags, and
+truffles, lemon-peel, &c., in a very dry place, ticketed.
+
+Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air: where the former
+are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock-jar, to
+prevent frequent opening.
+
+Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared first, to
+preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and, when squeezed, the
+pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating.
+
+If for boiling any liquid, the first way is best. When whites of eggs
+are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding,
+custards, &c., to employ the yolks also.
+
+Gravies or soups put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded
+pans.
+
+If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c., be suffered to boil over,
+the strength is lost.
+
+The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the
+collared things, &c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give
+an unpleasant flavor when next used.
+
+Hard water spoils the color of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash or salt
+of wormwood will prevent that effect.
+
+When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton come in, part of the suet
+may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste
+everything as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen
+pies nothing else should be used.
+
+Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold
+water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced;
+when put into hot water, or to the fire until thawed, no heat will
+dress them properly.
+
+Meat should be well examined when it comes in, in warm weather. In the
+height of the summer it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be
+salted lie an hour in cold water; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have
+ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful
+over it besides. Turn it every day and rub the pickle in, which will
+make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to
+be very much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, having rubbed it
+previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for
+table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the
+water boils.
+
+If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three
+days before it be salted.
+
+The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for the
+poor, when vegetables, oatmeal, or peas are added, and should not be
+cleared from the fat. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine
+peas soup, and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, that
+the fat may be removed. The mistress of the house will find many great
+advantages in visiting her larder daily before she orders the bill of
+fare; she will see what things require dressing, and thereby guard
+against their being spoiled. Many articles may be redressed in a
+different form from that in which they are first served, an improve the
+appearance of the table without increasing the expense.
+
+In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting
+out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment.
+
+Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price;
+but having more solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice,
+however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as
+palatably, and being cheaper ought to be bought in turn; and when
+weighed with the prime pieces, the price of the latter is reduced.
+
+In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken
+out, being apt to taint, as likewise the kernels of beef.
+
+Rumps and aitch bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers
+give, and that part always taints: avoid purchasing such.
+
+The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and after soaking and
+bruising may be added to give richness to gravies and soups, and they
+are particularly nourishing for the sick.
+
+Calves' tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with
+the brains, which may be served without.
+
+Some people like neats' tongues cured with the root, in which case they
+look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be
+cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away
+the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and
+extremely well cleaned before it be dressed; and the tongue laid in salt
+for a night and day before pickled.
+
+Great attention is requisite in salting meat, and in the country, where
+great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and
+pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain,
+before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing
+the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong; it should
+be turned daily, and, if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub may be used,
+and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt will
+find it well to boil up the pickle, skim, and when cold pour it over
+meat that has been sprinkled and drained. In some families great loss is
+sustained by the spoiling of meat. If meat is brought from a distance in
+warm weather, the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring
+it early in the morning.
+
+Mutton will keep long, by washing with vinegar the broad end of the leg;
+if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with salt lightly,
+it will not eat the worse. Game is brought in when not likely to keep a
+day, in the cook's apprehension, yet may be preserved two or three days
+if wanted, by the following method:
+
+If birds (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn), draw
+them, pick and take out the crop, wash them in two or three waters, and
+rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling
+water, put the birds in it, and let them remain five minutes, moving it,
+that it may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by the
+heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks; when
+to be roasted, wash, to take off the pepper. The most delicate birds,
+even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid.
+
+Birds that live by suction, &c., bear being high: it is probable that
+the heat might cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the
+scalding water could not be obtained.
+
+Fresh-water fish has often a muddy taste, to take off which, soak it in
+strong salt and water; or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in
+the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing.
+
+In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities
+may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the
+discretion of the persons who use them.
+
+The different taste of people requires more or less of the flavor of
+spices, garlic, butter, &c., which can never be directed by general
+rules, and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that of
+her employers, not all the ingredients with which nature or art can
+furnish her will give an exquisite relish to her dishes.
+
+The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion them
+until the true zest be obtained.
+
+March, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Poetical Cook-Book.
+
+SOUPS.
+
+
+TURTLE SOUP.
+
+    Sons of Apicius! say, can Europe's seas,
+    Can aught the edible creation yield
+    Compare with _turtle_, boast of land and wave?
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                        And, zounds! who would grudge
+    _Turtle soup_, though it came to five guineas the bowl?
+                    MOORE.
+
+The day before you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make the
+forcemeat; then, on the preceding evening, suspend the turtle by the two
+hind fins with a cord, and put one round the neck with a heavy weight
+attached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be cut off with
+more ease; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood will
+be well drained from the body. Then, early in the morning, having your
+stoves and plenty of hot water in readiness, take the turtle, lay it on
+the table on its back, and with a strong pointed knife cut round the
+under shell (which is the callipee),--there are joints at each end,
+which must be carefully found,--gently separating it from the callipash
+(which is the upper shell); be careful that in cutting out the gut you
+do not break the gall. When the callipee and the callipash are perfectly
+separated, take out that part of the gut that leads from the throat;
+that with the hearts put into a basin of water by themselves, the other
+interior part put away. Take the callipee, and cut off the meat which
+adheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twenty
+pounds of veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as directed for
+espagnoles, putting in the flesh of the turtle at the same time, with
+all kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of lean
+ham, peppercorns, salt, and a little spice, and two bay leaves, leaving
+it to stew till it take the color of espagnole; put the fins--the skin
+scalded off--and hearts in, half an hour before you fill it, with half
+water, and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch of
+parsley, and let it boil gently like consomme. While the turtle is
+stewing, carefully scald the head, the callipee, and all that is soft of
+the callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest skin that
+may remain; put them with the gut into a large pot of water to boil till
+tender; when so, take them out and cut them in squares, putting them in
+a basin by themselves till wanted for the soup. The next thing is the
+thickening of the soup, which must be prepared in the same manner as
+sauce tournee. The turtle being well done, take out the fins and hearts,
+and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass through a
+sieve into a large pan; then with a ladle take off all the fat, put it
+into a basin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small quantity at a
+time), with the thickening made the same as tournee; but it does not
+require to, neither must it, be one-twentieth part as thick. Set it over
+a brisk fire, and continue stirring till it boils. When it has boiled
+gently for one hour put in the callipee and callipash with the guts,
+hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares,
+with the forcemeat balls and herbs, which you should have ready chopped
+and stewed in espagnole; the herbs and parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram,
+basil, savory, and a few chopped mushrooms.
+
+It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a half
+before dinner put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a bottle
+of brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it, then
+take a basin, put a little cayenne into it, with the juice of six lemons
+squeezed through a sieve. When the dinner is wanted, skim the turtle,
+stir it well up, and put a little salt, if necessary; then stir the
+cayenne and lemon juice in, and ladle it into the tureen. This receipt
+will answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds.
+
+
+CHICKEN BROTH.
+
+    The _chicken broth_ was brought at nine;
+    He then arose to ham and wine,
+    And, with a philosophic air,
+    Decided on the bill of fare.
+
+Take the remaining parts of a chicken from which panada has been made,
+all but the rump; skin, and put them into the water it was first boiled
+in, with the addition of a little mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns,
+and simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to it a quarter of an ounce of
+sweet almond beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it a little while,
+and when cold take off the fat.
+
+
+
+
+FISH.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH WHITE.
+
+    His soup scientific,--his _fishes_ quite prime;
+    His pates superb, and his cutlets sublime.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Let your fish be cleaned and salted; save your melts or kows. Cut three
+onions and parsley root, boil them in a pint of water; cut your fish in
+pieces to suit; take some clever sized pieces, cut them from the bone,
+chop them fine, mix with them the melts, crumbs of bread, a little
+ginger, one egg well beaten, leeks, green parsley, all made fine; take
+some bread, and make them in small balls; lay your fish in your stewpan,
+layer of fish and layer of onions; sprinkle with ginger, pour cold water
+over to cover your fish; let it boil till done, then lay your fish
+nicely on a dish. To make the sauce, take the juice of a large lemon and
+yolk of an egg, well beaten together, teaspoonful of flour; mix it
+gradually with half a pint of the water the fish was done in, then with
+all your water put in your balls; let it boil very quick; when done
+throw the balls and gravy over your fish.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY TO STEW FISH.
+
+    Behold, the dishes due appear!
+    _Fish_ in the van, beef in the rear.
+    Ah! all the luxury of fish,
+    With scalding sauce.
+
+Boil six onions in water till tender, strain, and cut them in slices.
+Put your fish, cut in slices, in a stewpan with a quart of water, salt,
+pepper, ginger and mace to suit taste; let it boil fifteen minutes; add
+the onions, and forcemeat balls made of chopped fish, grated bread,
+chopped onion, parsley, marjoram, mace, pepper, ginger and salt, and
+five eggs beat up with a spoon into balls, and drop them into the pan of
+fish when boiling; cover close for ten minutes, take it off the fire,
+and then add six eggs with the juice of five lemons; stir the gravy very
+slowly, add chopped parsley, and let it all simmer on a slow fire,
+keeping the pan in motion until it just boils, when it must be taken off
+quickly, or the sauce will break. A little butter or sweet oil added to
+the balls is an improvement. If you meet with good success in the
+cooking of this receipt, you will often have stewed fish.
+
+
+PERCH WITH WINE.
+
+    Here haddock, hake, and flounders are,
+    And eels, and _perch_, and cod.
+                    GREEN.
+
+Having scalded and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stew-pan,
+with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay leaf, a clove of
+garlic, a bunch of parsley, and scallions, two cloves, and some salt.
+
+When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs of which
+mix with some butter and a little flour; beat these up, set them on the
+fire, stewing till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball
+of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the above
+sauce.
+
+
+TO STEW FISH BROWN.
+
+                       Here stay thy haste,
+    And with the _savory fish_ indulge thy taste.
+                    GAY.
+
+Have your fish cleaned, the melts or kows being taken out whole; salt
+your fish, and let it lay half an hour. Cut your onions in slices, fry
+them with parsley-root, cut in long thin slices, in half a teacup of
+sweet oil, till they become a fine brown. Wash and dry your fish, cut it
+in pieces, put it in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of browned
+onion, &c. Take a quart of beer, half a pint of vinegar, quarter pound
+of sugar, two tablespoonfuls powdered ginger, mixed well together, pour
+over your fish till covered. When putting your fish in the pan, split
+the head in two, and place it at the bottom, the smaller pieces on the
+top, the rows uppermost; let them cook very quick. Take out your fish,
+lay it nicely on a dish, mix a little flour in your gravy, give it a
+boil, throw it over the fish, and let it stand to cool.
+
+
+ROASTED STURGEON.
+
+    Your betters will despise you, if they see
+    Things that are far surpassing your degree;
+    Therefore beyond your substance never treat;
+    'Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat;
+    A widow has cold pie, nurse gives you cake,
+    From generous merchants ham or _sturgeon_ take.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small one, clean and skin it
+properly, lard it with eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a white
+wine marmalade. Fasten it to the spit and roast it, basting frequently
+with the marinade strained. Let the fish be a nice color, and serve with
+a pepper sauce.
+
+
+BOILED SALMON.
+
+    Red speckled trouts, the _salmon's_ silver jole,
+    The jointed lobster and unscaly sole,
+    And luscious scallops to allure the tastes
+    Of rigid zealots to delicious feasts;
+    Wednesdays and Fridays, you'll observe from hence,
+    Days when our sins were doomed to abstinence.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon
+you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well
+(boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils put in a
+handful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish
+well washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently.
+Salmon requires as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an hour to a
+pound of meat; but practice can only perfect the cook in dressing
+salmon.
+
+A quarter of a salmon will take as long boiling as half a one. You must
+consider the thickness, not the weight.
+
+_Obs._ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest, and if you have a
+"grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.
+
+Lobster sauce and rye bread should be eaten with boiled salmon.
+
+
+BOILED LOBSTER.
+
+    But soon, like _lobster boil'd_, the morn
+    From black to red began to turn.
+                    BUTLER.
+
+Those of the middle size are best. The male lobster is preferred to eat,
+and the female to make sauce of. Set on a pot with water, salted in
+proportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water. When the
+water boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to
+an hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub the
+shell with a little butter or sweet oil, break off the great claws,
+crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered,
+and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and send
+the body whole.
+
+
+OYSTERS.
+
+    The man had sure a palate cover'd o'er
+    With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore
+    First broke the oozy _oyster's_ pearly coat,
+    And risk'd the living morsel down his throat.
+                    GAY.
+
+Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, and
+the time of eating them, after they are opened. Nothing, however, is
+more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
+Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost
+perfection must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in
+the under shell. If not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor and
+spirit are lost.
+
+
+FRIED OYSTERS.
+
+    You shapeless nothing, in a dish!
+    You, that are but almost a fish!
+                    COWPER.
+
+The largest and finest oysters should be chosen for frying. Simmer them
+in their own liquor for a couple of minutes; take them out, and lay them
+on a cloth to drain; beard them, and then flour them, egg and breadcrumb
+them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown.
+
+A much better way is to beat the yolks of eggs, and mix with the grated
+bread, a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace, and a little salt.
+Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them
+in lard, till they are a light brown color. Take care not to do them too
+much. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackers
+pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice.
+
+
+STEWED OYSTERS.
+
+    By nerves about our palate placed,
+    She likewise judges of the taste.
+    Who would ask for her opinion
+    Between an _oyster_ and an onion?
+                    DONNE.
+
+Stew with a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, a glass of
+white wine, one anchovy bruised, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
+little mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all stew gently an hour, or
+three quarters. Pick out the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter pound of
+fresh butter kneaded in a large tablespoonful of flour, and stew them
+ten or twelve minutes.
+
+Serve them garnished with bread sippets and cut lemon. They may be
+stewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg, and thickened with cream, flour, and butter.
+
+
+OYSTER LOAVES.
+
+    _'Tis no one thing_; it is not fruit, nor root,
+    Nor poorly limited with head or foot.
+                    DONNE.
+
+Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, fry
+them brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs;
+stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in their
+liquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with grated
+lemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fill
+the rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in a
+dish.
+
+
+SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
+
+    What will not luxury taste? Earth, sea, and air,
+    Are daily ransack'd for the bills of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes,
+take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit
+of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add as much fine
+breadcrumbs as will dry it up; then put to it the oyster liquor, and
+give it a boil up; put the oysters into scallop shells that you have
+buttered, and strewed with breadcrumbs, then a layer of oysters, then
+breadcrumbs, and then again oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor,
+cover them with breadcrumbs, put about half a dozen little bits of
+butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
+
+Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other
+spices are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavor of
+the oyster.
+
+
+
+
+MEATS.
+
+
+VENISON.
+
+    Thanks, my lord, for your _venison_; for finer or fatter
+    Never ranged in a forest or smoked in a platter.
+    The haunch was a picture for painters to study,
+    The fat was so white, and the lean was so ruddy.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+The haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters
+roasting. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and water, and a paper over
+that, to cover all the fat; baste it well with dripping, and keep it at
+a distance, to get hot at the bones by degrees. When near done, remove
+the covering, and baste it with butter, and froth it up before you
+serve. Gravy for it should be put in a boat, and not in the dish (unless
+there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two
+or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a
+gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side; put them in a
+saucepan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, and
+gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a
+pint. Season only with salt.
+
+
+VENISON PASTY.
+
+    And now that I think on't, as I am a sinner!
+    We wanted this venison to make out the dinner.
+    What say you? a _pasty_! it shall and it must,
+    And my wife, little Kitty, is famous for crust.
+    "What the de'il, mon, a pasty!" re-echoed the Scot.
+    "Though splitting, I'll still keep a corner for that."
+    "We'll all keep a corner," the lady cried out;
+    "We will all keep a corner!" was echoed about.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoning
+of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; fry them slightly in
+butter. Line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, lay in the
+steaks, and add half a pint of rich gravy, made with the trimmings of
+the venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon or
+teaspoonful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and bake it
+nearly two hours; some more gravy may be poured into the pie before
+serving it.
+
+
+ROAST BEEF.
+
+    And aye a rowth, a _roast beef_ and claret:
+          Syne wha wad starve!
+                    BURNS.
+
+The noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds will require to be before the
+fire about three and a half to four hours; take care to spit it evenly,
+that it may not be heavier on one side than on the other; put a little
+clean dripping into the dripping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over to
+preserve the fat); baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every
+quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;
+then take off the paper and make some gravy for it. Stir the fire, and
+make it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it,
+baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes
+longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, and serve
+it.
+
+
+BEEF A LA BRAISE.
+
+    In short, dear, "a Dandy" describes what I mean,
+    And Bob's far the best of the gems I have seen,
+    But just knows the names of French dishes and cooks,
+    As dear Pa knows the titles and authors of books;
+    Whose names, think how quick! he already knows pat,
+    _A la braise_, petit pates, and--what d'ye call that
+    They inflict on potatoes? Oh! maitre d'hotel.
+    I assure you, dear Dolly, he knows them as well
+    As if nothing but these all his life he had eat,
+    Though a bit of them Bobby has never touched yet.
+    I can scarce tell the difference, at least as to phrase,
+    Between _beef a la Psyche_ and _curls a la braise_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone a rump of beef, lard it very thickly with salt pork seasoned with
+pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice, and season the beef with
+pepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan,
+with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves,
+two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in the
+beef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock,
+and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew between
+six and seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor it
+has been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour and
+butter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. Pour
+it over the beef.
+
+
+BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES.
+
+                The funeral _bak'd meats_
+    Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in a mortar with two small
+onions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up, add a little salt
+and pepper. Season slices of beef or mutton-chops with salt and pepper,
+and more onion, if the flavor is approved. Rub the bottom of a
+pudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, which
+should be as thick as a batter, and then a layer of meat, and so on
+alternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour.
+
+
+BEEF RAGOUT.
+
+    Is there, then, that o'er his _French ragout_,
+    Looks down wi' sneering, scornful view,
+                              On sic a dinner?
+                    BURNS.
+
+Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, pour
+over it a little boiling water, about a pint of small-beer, add a carrot
+or two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece of
+lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew an hour, then add some
+good gravy; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the sauce;
+thicken it with a little flour; add a little celery ready boiled, a
+little ketchup, put in the meat; just simmer it up.
+
+
+BEEF KIDNEYS.
+
+    Or one's _kidney_,--imagine, Dick,--done with champagne.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
+it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine; dust it with flour. Put some
+butter into a stewpan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
+the minced kidneys. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
+a little salt and cayenne, and pour in a very little boiling water. Add
+a glass of champagne, or other wine, or a large teaspoonful of mushroom
+ketchup or walnut pickle; cover the pan closely, and let it stew till
+the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot, in a covered dish. It is
+eaten generally at breakfast.
+
+
+BROILED BEEFSTEAKS.
+
+    _Time was_, when John Bull little difference spied
+    'Twixt the foe at his feet or the friend at his side;
+    When he found, such his humor in fighting and eating,
+    His foe, like _beefsteak_, the sweeter for beating.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well,
+    It were done quickly.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore quarter. Have the
+gridiron perfectly clean, and heated over a clear quick fire, lay on the
+steaks, and with meat-tongs, keep turning them constantly, till they are
+done enough; throw a little salt over them before taking them off the
+fire. Serve as hot as possible, plain or with a made gravy and sliced
+onions, or rub a bit of butter on the steaks the moment of serving.
+Mutton-chops are broiled in the same manner.
+
+
+SCOTCH HAGGIS.
+
+    Fair fa' your honest sonsie face,
+    Great chieftain o' the puddin' race;
+    Aboon them a' ye tak your place,
+              Painch, tripe, or thairm,
+    Weel are ye wordy of a grace
+              As langs my arm.
+    His knife see rustic labor dight,
+    An' cut you up with ready slight,
+    Trenching your gushing entrail bright
+              Like onie ditch,
+    And then, O! what a glorious sight,
+              Warm reekin' rich.
+    Ye powers wha mak mankind your care,
+    And dish them out their bill of fare,
+    Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware
+              That jaups in luggies,
+    But if ye wish her grateful pray'r,
+              Gie her a _Haggis_.
+                    BURNS.
+
+Make the haggis bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liver
+very well, so as it will grate, dry the meal before the fire, mince the
+draught and a pretty large piece of beef, very small; grate about half
+the liver, mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these
+materials very well together with a handful or two of the dried meal;
+spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed
+spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and
+some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin
+(_i. e._ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into
+the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; put out all the wind
+before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put
+it in a cloth.
+
+If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling.
+
+N. B. The above is a receipt from Mrs. MacIver, a celebrated Caledonian
+professor of the culinary art, who taught and published a book of
+cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787.
+
+
+SALT BEEF.
+
+    The British fleet, which now commands the main,
+    Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain,
+    Would they take time, would they with leisure work,
+    With care would _salt their beef_, and cure their pork.
+    There is no dish, but what _our_ cooks have made
+    And merited a charter by their trade.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a pickle of rock salt and cold water strong enough to bear an egg,
+let a little salt remain in the bottom of the tub; two quarts of
+molasses and a quarter pound of saltpetre is sufficient for a cwt. of
+beef. It is fit for use in ten days. Boil the beef slowly until the
+bones come out easily, then wrap it in a towel, and put a heavy weight
+on it till cold.
+
+
+TO PICKLE TONGUES FOR BOILING.
+
+              Silence is commendable only
+    In a _neat's tongue_ dried.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some
+salt, and let it drain till next day; then for each tongue, mix a large
+spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as
+much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week add
+another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, a tongue will be
+ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it will
+keep four or five weeks without being too salt. Smoke them or plainly
+dry them, if you like best. When to be dressed, boil it extremely
+tender; allow five hours, and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The
+longer kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may require
+soaking three or four hours.
+
+
+ROASTED CALF'S LIVER.
+
+    Pray a slice of your _liver_.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Wash and wipe it, then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs
+of bread, chopped, an anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt,
+pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew the liver up, lard it, wrap it
+in a veal caul, and roast it. Serve with good brown gravy and currant
+jelly.
+
+
+SCOTCH COLLOPS.
+
+          A cook has mighty things professed;
+    Then send us but two dishes nicely dressed,--
+    One called _Scotch Collops_.
+                    KING.
+
+Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over and rather round, beat
+with a rolling-pin; grate a little nutmeg over them; dip in the yolk of
+an egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine brown; have ready,
+warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butter
+rubbed into a little flour, to which put the yolk of an egg, two large
+spoonfuls of cream, and a little salt.
+
+Do not boil the sauce, but stir until of a fine thickness to serve with
+the collops.
+
+
+STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.
+
+                      In truth, I'm confounded
+    And bothered, my dear, 'twixt that troublesome boy's
+    (Bob's) cookery language, and Madame Le Roi's.
+    What with fillets of roses and _fillets of veal_,
+    Things garni with lace, and things garni with eel,
+    One's hair and one's cutlets both en papillote,
+    And a thousand more things I shall ne'er have by rote.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast and then stew it with
+two quarts of white stock, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and one of
+mushroom ketchup. Before serving strain the gravy, thicken it with
+butter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickled
+mushrooms; heat it and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or three
+dozen forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cut
+lemon.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD SURPRISED.
+
+    And the dish set before them,--O dish well devised!--
+    Was what Old Mother Glasse calls "_a calf's head surprised_."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Clean and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the bones will come out
+easily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it a
+headlong form; beat it with the yolks of four eggs, a little melted
+butter, pepper and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it all
+over with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread, which is put
+over one half; a good quantity of finely minced parsley should be mixed;
+place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown color. Serve it
+with a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixed
+with the brains, which have been previously boiled, chopped, and
+seasoned with a little cayenne and salt.
+
+
+CALF'S HEAD ROASTED.
+
+    Good L--d! to see the various ways
+    Of dressing a calf's head.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Wash and clean it well, parboil it, take out the bones, brains, and
+tongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head, and some balls with
+breadcrumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded veal
+or cold fowl; season with salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind it
+with an egg beaten up; fill the head with it, which must then be sewed
+up, or fastened with skewers and tied; while roasting baste it well with
+butter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, some
+minced parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch the tongue and cut it
+into slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thin
+slices of bacon.
+
+Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongue
+and forcemeat balls round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will require
+one hour and a half to roast.
+
+
+SALMIS OF WILD DUCK.
+
+    Long as, by bayonets protected, we Watties
+    May have our full fling at their _salmis_ and pates.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild ducks, and put the
+rest of the meat into a mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley,
+some pepper, and a bay leaf; pound all these ingredients well, and then
+put into a saucepan, with four ladlesful of stock, half a glass of white
+wine, the same of broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce these to
+half, strain them, and having laid the pieces on a dish, cover them with
+the above; keep the whole hot, not boiling, until wanted for table.
+
+
+STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.
+
+    I give thee all my kitchen lore,
+      Though poor the offering be;
+    I'll tell thee how 'tis cooked, before
+      You come to dine with me.
+    The duck is truss'd from head to heels,
+      Then stew'd with butter well,
+    And streaky bacon, which reveals
+      A most delicious smell.
+
+    When duck and bacon, in a mass,
+      You in a stewpan lay,
+    A spoon around the vessel pass,
+      And gently stir away;
+    A tablespoonful of flour bring,
+      A quart of water plain,
+    Then in it twenty onions fling,
+      And gently stir again.
+
+    A bunch of parsley, and a leaf
+      Of ever verdant bay,
+    Two cloves,--I make my language brief,--
+      Then add your peas you may;
+    And let it simmer till it sings
+      In a delicious strain;
+    Then take your duck, nor let the strings
+      For trussing it remain.
+
+    The parsley fail not to remove,
+      Also the leaf of bay;
+    Dish up your duck,--the sauce improve
+      In the accustom'd way,
+    With pepper, salt, and other things
+      I need not here explain;
+    And if the dish contentment brings,
+      You'll dine with me again.
+
+
+FOWL A LA HOLLANDAISE.
+
+    Our courtier walks from dish to dish,
+    Tastes from his friends of _fowl_ and fish,
+    Tells all their names, lays down the law,
+    "Que ca est bon." "Ah! goutez ca."
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity of minced suet, an
+onion, or a few oysters and some boiled parsley, season with pepper,
+salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg beaten up to bind it. Bone the
+breast of a good sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, cover the fowl
+with a piece of white paper buttered, and roast it half an hour; make a
+thick batter of flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and pour some
+of the batter over the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry, add more, and do
+this till it is all crusted over and a nice brown color, serve it with
+melted butter and lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy.
+
+
+BOILED TURKEY.
+
+    But man, cursed man, on _turkeys_ preys,
+    And Christmas shortens all our days.
+    Sometimes with oysters we combine,
+    Sometimes assist the savory chine.
+    From the low peasant to the lord,
+    The _turkey_ smokes on every board.
+                    GAY.
+
+Make a stuffing of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a few
+oysters, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop,
+fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make it
+very white. Have ready some oyster sauce made rich with butter, a little
+cream, and a spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey.
+
+
+DEVILLED TURKEY.
+
+    And something's here with name uncivil,
+    For our cook christens it "_A Devil_,"
+    "_A Devil_, in any shape, sweet maid,
+    A parson fears not," Syntax said;
+    "I'll make him minced meat; 'tis my trade."
+
+Take cold roast turkey legs, score them well, season them with salt and
+plenty of cayenne pepper and mustard, then broil them. Serve them
+_hot_.
+
+
+CAPON.
+
+    In good roast beef my landlord sticks his knife,
+    The _capon_ fat delights his dainty wife.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with salt, cloves, and
+whole pepper, a few shallots, and then put the capon in an earthen pan;
+you must take care it has not room to shake; it must be covered close,
+and done over a slow charcoal fire.
+
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
+
+    Gargilius, sleek, voluptuous lord,
+    A hundred dainties smoke upon his board;
+    Earth, air, and ocean ransack'd for the feast,
+    In masquerade of foreign olios dress'd.
+                    WARTON.
+
+Reduce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tournee, and add to the yolks
+of four eggs; put to this the white meat of a chicken, minced very
+small, and well mixed with the sauce; take it out, and roll it into
+balls, about the size of a walnut; roll them in breadcrumbs, giving them
+an elongated form; then beat them in some well-beaten egg; bread them
+again, and fry them of a light brown.
+
+
+LEG OF MUTTON.
+
+    But hang it, to poets, who seldom can eat,
+    Your very good _mutton's_ a very good treat.
+                    GOLDSMITH.
+
+Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm water
+for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let it
+simmer very gently, and skim it carefully; a leg of nine pounds will
+take two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done,
+especially in very cold weather.
+
+The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into good soup in
+five minutes, and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a leg of mutton is
+a most economical joint.
+
+
+TO CURE HAMS.
+
+    Or urged thereunto by the woes he endured,
+    The way to be _smoked_, is the way to be _cured_.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+    But to the fading palate bring relief,
+    By the _Westphalian ham_ or Belgic beef.
+                    KING.
+
+When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an ounce of
+saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt,
+ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
+and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle
+for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finest
+powder, added to the above, will give still more flavor. Cover with bran
+when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the
+latter will make it harder, and more of the flavor of Westphalia. Sew
+hams in hessings, _i. e._ coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is
+a strong fire.
+
+
+HAM PIES.
+
+    Each mortal has his pleasure; none deny
+    Scarsdale his bottle, Darby his _ham pie_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Take two pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling sized pieces,
+season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or
+dressed ham, cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some
+forced or sausage meat at the top, with some stewed mushrooms, and the
+yolks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as
+with rumpsteak pie.
+
+N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops,
+and the chine bone taken away.
+
+
+ROASTED HARE.
+
+    Turkey and fowl, and ham and chine,
+    On which the cits prefer to dine,
+    With partridge, too, and eke a _Hare_,
+    The luxuries of country fare,
+    She nicely cooked with bounteous care.
+
+Cut the skin from a hare that has been well soaked, put it on the spit,
+and rub it well with Madeira, pricking it in various places that it may
+imbibe plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a paste, and roast it.
+When done, take away the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinkle
+breadcrumbs, and baste it gently with butter (still keeping it turning
+before the fire), until a crust is formed over it, and it is of a nice
+brown color; dish it over some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled in it;
+two or three cloves may be stuck into the knuckles, if you think proper.
+
+
+FRICASEED RABBITS.
+
+    Your _rabbits fricaseed_ and chicken,
+    With curious choice of dainty picking,
+    Each night got ready at the Crown,
+    With port and punch to wash 'em down.
+                    LLOYD.
+
+Take two fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces; blanch them in
+boiling water, and skim them for one minute; stir a few trimmings of
+mushrooms in a stewpan over the fire, with a bit of butter, till it
+begins to fry, then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the flour, a
+little at a time, nearly a quart of good consomme, which set on the
+fire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gently
+till done; then put them in another stewpan, and reduce the sauce till
+nearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boiling
+cream, and when it becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce in general,
+squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbits; make it very hot, put in a
+few mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and then serve it to
+table.
+
+
+
+
+BIRDS.
+
+
+TO ROAST PHEASANTS.
+
+    Little birds fly about with the _true pheasant taint_,
+    And the geese are all born with the liver[56-*] complaint.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the head part, mix them with salt
+and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
+ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
+the birds with them, then wrap them in sheets of paper well buttered,
+put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire.
+
+
+TO ROAST ORTOLANS.
+
+    With all the luxury of statesmen dine,
+    On daily feasts of _ortolans_ and wine.
+                    CAWTHORN.
+
+Put into every bird an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
+finely sifted breadcrumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
+through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or fresh
+butter. They will be done in ten minutes. Reed birds are very fine made
+into little dumplings with a thin crust of flour and butter, and boiled
+about twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth.
+
+
+WOODCOCKS.
+
+    And as for your juries--who would not set o'er them
+    A jury of tasters, with _woodcocks_ before them?
+                    MOORE.
+
+Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of "haut
+gout" considered a "bonne bouche." Truss their legs close to the body,
+and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and put them to roast before
+the fire; toast a slice of bread for each bird, lay them in the
+dripping-pan under the bird to catch the trail; baste them with butter,
+and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on
+the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up in
+a boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Some epicures like
+this bird very much underdone, and direct that the woodcock should be
+just introduced to the cook, for her to show it to the fire, then send
+it to table.
+
+
+BIRDS POTTED.
+
+     "It tastes of the _bird_, however," said the old woman, "and she
+     cooked the _rail of the fence_ on which the crow had been sitting."
+
+When birds have come a great way, they often smell so bad that they can
+scarcely be borne from the rankness of the butter, by managing them in
+the following manner, they may be as good as ever. Set a large saucepan
+of clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at the
+top, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them in the saucepan of
+water half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth inside and out,
+continue till they are all done; scald the pot clean, when the birds are
+quite cold, season them with mace, pepper, and salt according to taste,
+put them down close in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them.
+
+
+LARKS.
+
+    What say you, lads? is any spark
+    Among you ready for a _lark_?
+                    MOORE.
+
+These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they
+are thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them over
+with the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in breadcrumbs; spit them
+on a lark spit; ten or fifteen minutes will be sufficient time to roast
+them in, before a quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste them with
+fresh butter, and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs till they are well
+covered with them. Fry some grated bread in butter. Set it to drain
+before the fire, that it may harden; serve the crumbs in the dish under
+the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[56-*] The process by which the liver of the unfortunate goose is
+enlarged, in order to produce that richest of all dainties, _the foie
+gras_, of which such renowned pates are made at Strasbourg and Toulouse,
+is thus described in the "Cours Gastronomique:" "On deplumes l'estomac
+des oies; on attache ensuite ces animaux aux chenets d'une cheminee, et
+on le nourrit devant le feu. La captivite et la chaleur donnent a ces
+volatiles une maladie hepatique, qui fait gonfler leur foie."
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+STUFFING FOR VEAL.
+
+    Poor Roger Fowler, who'd a generous mind,
+    Nor would submit to have his hand confined,
+    But aimed at all,--yet never could excel
+    In anything but _stuffing of his veal_.
+
+Good stuffing has always been considered a chief thing in cookery. Mince
+a quarter of a pound of beef suet or marrow, the same weight of
+breadcrumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet
+marjoram or lemon thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion
+chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound thoroughly
+together with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the veal
+with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread.
+
+
+FORCEMEAT BALLS.
+
+    And own they gave him a lively notion,
+    What his own _forced meat balls_ would be.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take an equal quantity of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred, beat
+them in a marble mortar, add pepper, salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel,
+and nutmeg grated, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped fine, a little
+shallot and young onion, a few breadcrumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg,
+sufficient to work it light; roll this into balls with a little flour,
+and fry them.
+
+
+VOL AU VENT.
+
+    Boy, tell the cook I love all nicknackeries,
+    Fricasees, _vol au vents_, puffs, and gimcrackeries.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch thick, then with a
+tin cutter made for that purpose cut out the shape (about the size of
+the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), lay it on a
+baking-plate with paper, rub the paste over with the yolk of an egg.
+Roll out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter,
+and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and
+press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with
+yolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a
+light-brown color when done; take out the paste inside the centre mark,
+preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted
+fill it with a white fricasee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread,
+or any other entree you wish. Serve hot.
+
+
+OYSTER PATTIE.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ In the next room there's a delicious pate, let's
+     discuss it.
+
+     _Baradas._ Pshaw! a man filled with a sublime ambition has no time
+     to discuss your pates.
+
+     _De Beringhen._ Pshaw! and a man filled with as sublime a pate has
+     no time to discuss ambition. Gad, I have the best of it.
+                    BULWER'S RICHELIEU.
+
+Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor and add them to it. Cut
+into thin slices the kidney-fat of a loin of veal; season them with
+white pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottom
+of a pie-dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little more
+seasoning; put over them the marrow of two bones. Lay a border of puff
+paste around the edge of the dish, cover it with paste, and bake it
+nearly three quarters of an hour.
+
+
+PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD.
+
+    Seducing young pates, as ever could cozen
+    One out of one's appetite, down by the dozen.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or round pieces, nearly
+three inches high, and cut bits the same width for tops. Mark them
+neatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light-brown color in clarified
+beef-dripping or fine lard; scoop out the inside crumb; take care not to
+go too near the bottom; fill them with mince-meat prepared as for
+patties, with stewed oysters or with sausage meat; put on the tops, and
+serve them on a napkin.
+
+
+MACARONI GRATIN.
+
+    Where so ready all nature its cookery yields,
+    _Macaroni au Parmesan_ grows in the fields.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Lay fried bread pretty closely round a dish; boil your macaroni in the
+usual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strew
+breadcrumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese;
+drop a little melted butter on it, and put it in the oven to brown.
+
+
+TRUFFLES.
+
+    What will not _Luxury taste_? _Earth_, sea and air
+    Are daily ransacked for the bill of fare.
+                    GAY.
+
+The truffle, like the mushroom, is a species of fungus, common in France
+and Italy; it is generally about eight to ten inches below the surface
+of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used in
+cookery.
+
+Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing and
+brushing. It loses much of its flavor when dried.
+
+
+TO STEW MUSHROOMS.
+
+    Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go,
+    That he might taste their soups and _mushrooms_ know.
+                    KING.
+
+Take a pint of white stock; season it with salt, pepper, and a little
+lemon pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; clean and
+peel the mushrooms, sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil them for
+three minutes; put them into the gravy when it is hot, and stew them for
+fifteen minutes.
+
+
+
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
+
+                              If you please,
+    I'll taste your tempting toasted cheese,
+    Broiled ham, and nice _mushroom'd ketchup_.
+
+If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after the
+following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for made
+dishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches the
+nature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is
+the superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extempore
+gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeably
+awaken the palate and encourage the appetite.
+
+A couple quarts of double ketchup, made according to the following
+receipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of
+time and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as
+can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. I believe the following is
+the best way for preparing and extracting the essence of mushrooms, so
+as to procure and preserve their flavor for a considerable length of
+time.
+
+Look out for mushrooms, from the beginning of September. Take care of
+the right sort and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be preferred.
+Put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle
+them with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt on
+them, and so on, alternately, salt and mushrooms; let them remain two or
+three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms,
+and rendered them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or mash
+them well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not
+longer, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; then pour them
+into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of whole
+black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close,
+and set in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours
+at least.
+
+Take out the jar, and pour the juice, clear from the settlings, through
+a hair sieve (without squeezing the mushrooms), into a clean stewpan;
+let it boil very gently for half an hour. Those who are for superlative
+ketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced to
+half the quantity. There are several advantages attending this
+concentration: it will keep much better, and only half the quantity
+required; so you can flavor sauce, &c., without thinning it; neither is
+this an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part is
+evaporated. Skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover
+it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day; then pour it
+off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the
+bottom of the jug), through a tamis or thick flannel bag, till it is
+perfectly clear; add a tablespoonful of good brandy to each pint of
+ketchup, and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited,
+from which the ketchup is to be quietly poured off and bottled in pints
+or half pints (which have been washed in brandy or spirits). It is best
+to keep it in such quantities as are soon used.
+
+Take especial care that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept in
+a cool dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it be
+badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil.
+
+Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck
+of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again
+with a few peppercorns.
+
+
+SUPERLATIVE SAUCE.
+
+    Who praises, in this _sauce enamor'd_ age,
+    Calm, healthful temperance, like an Indian sage?
+                    WARTON.
+
+Claret or Port wine and mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint of
+walnut or other pickle liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh
+lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and sliced eschalots, the
+same; scraped horseradish, ditto; allspice and black pepper, powdered,
+half an ounce each; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three drachms;
+celery seed, bruised, one drachm; all avoirdupois weight. Put these into
+a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it every day for a
+fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition of
+a quarter of a pint of soy or thick browning), and you will have "a
+delicious double relish." Dr. Kitchener says, this composition is one of
+the chefs d'oeuvres of many experiments he has made, for the purpose
+of enabling good housewives to prepare their own sauces; it is equally
+agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &c.; and as a fair lady
+may make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, that all
+the ingredients are good and wholesome.
+
+_Obs._ Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of the
+substances necessary to make sauce; the above composition of the several
+articles from which the various gravies derive their flavor, will be
+found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large
+tablespoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, or
+broth, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearly
+equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual nerves into good
+humor as anything I know.
+
+
+MINT SAUCE.
+
+    "Live bullion," says merciless Bob, "which I think
+    Would, if coined with a little _mint sauce_, be delicious."
+                    MOORE.
+
+Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to this
+add one-third the quantity of parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks,
+mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a teaspoonful
+of moist sugar and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
+
+
+CRANBERRY SAUCE.
+
+    Our fathers most admired their _sauces sweet_,
+    And often asked for sugar _with their meat_.
+                    KING.
+
+Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with just
+about a teacup of water; stew them slowly and stir them frequently,
+particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
+stewing, and should be like marmalade when done. When they are broken
+and the juice comes out, stir in a pound of white sugar. When they are
+thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to get
+cold. You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould,
+and when it is a firm shape send it to table.
+
+Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast fowl, turkey, &c.
+
+
+CAPER SAUCE.
+
+                          Along these shores
+    Neglected trade with difficulty toils,
+    Collecting slender stores; the sun-dried grape,
+    Or _capers_ from the rock, that prompt the taste
+    Of luxury.
+                    DYER.
+
+To make a quarter of a pint, take a tablespoonful of capers and two
+teaspoonfuls of vinegar. The present fashion of cutting capers is to
+mince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put
+them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy;
+stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
+Some boil and mince fine a few leaves of parsley or chevrel or tarragon,
+and add to the sauce; others, the juice of half a Seville orange or
+lemon.
+
+
+
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+    Grateful and salutary Spring! the _plants_
+    Which crown thy numerous gardens, and invite
+    To health and temperance, in the simple meal,
+    Unstain'd with murder, undefil'd with blood,
+    Unpoison'd with rich sauces, to provoke
+    The unwilling appetite to gluttony.
+    For this, the _bulbous esculents_ their roots
+    With sweetness fill; for this, with cooling juice
+    The green herb spreads its _leaves_; and opening _buds_
+    And _flowers_ and _seeds_ with various flavors tempts
+    Th' ensanguined palate from its savage feast.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the
+largest or smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavor,
+just before they are quite full grown. Freshness is their chief value
+and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal alive,
+as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead.
+
+To boil them in soft water will preserve the color best of such as are
+green; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of carbonate
+of potash.
+
+Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and
+insects. This requires great attention.
+
+If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, make
+it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before you
+put in the greens, &c., which should not be put in till the water boils
+briskly; the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When the
+vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been
+kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will lose
+their color and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly before
+you send them to table.
+
+This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention.
+
+
+TO DRESS SALAD.
+
+    Two large potatoes, pressed through kitchen sieve,
+    Smoothness and softness to the _salad_ give;
+    Of mordant mustard add a single spoon;
+    Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
+    But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,
+    To add a double quantity of salt.
+    Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
+    And twice with vinegar procured from town;
+    True flavor needs it, and your poet begs
+    The pounded yellow of two boiled eggs;
+    Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
+    And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
+    And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss
+    A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
+    O great and glorious! O herbaceous treat!
+    'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat,
+    Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
+    And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.
+                    REV. SIDNEY SMITH.
+
+If the herbs be young, fresh-gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry
+and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the above directions, he
+cannot fail of obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished
+salad-dresser.
+
+
+ONIONS.
+
+    The things we eat, by various juice control
+    The narrowness or largeness of our soul.
+    _Onions_ will make e'en heirs or widows weep;
+    The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep.
+                    KING.
+
+Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to put
+them on to boil; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold water;
+let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and
+age) from half an hour to an hour.
+
+
+ARTICHOKES.
+
+    Whose appetites would soon devour
+    Each cabbage, _artichoke_, and flower.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of
+boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till
+tender, which will take an hour and a half or two hours. The surest way
+to know when they are done enough is to draw out a leaf. Trim them and
+drain them on a sieve, and send up melted butter with them, which some
+put into small cups, so that each guest may have one.
+
+
+LIMA BEANS.
+
+    Now fragrant with the _bean's_ perfume,
+    Now purpled with the pulse's bloom,
+    Might well with bright allusions store me;
+    But happier bards have been before me.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
+gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
+boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft; drain them well,
+and add to them some butter. They are destroyed by the first frost, but
+can be kept during the winter by gathering them on a dry day, when full
+grown, but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods into a
+keg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a
+layer of bean pods, then add more salt, and then another layer of beans
+in their pods, till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavy
+weight, cover the keg closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place. Before
+you use them, soak the pods all night in cold water, the next day shell
+them, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them.
+
+
+POTATOES.
+
+    Leeks to the Welsh, to Dutchmen butter's dear;
+    Of Irish swains, _potatoes_ is the cheer.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Fill
+a saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size (or make them so by
+dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will cover
+them about an inch; they are sooner boiled, and more savory than when
+drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too little
+water; but potatoes are often spoiled by having too much; they must be
+merely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that they
+may be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till they
+boil; then take them off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer
+slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence on
+the usual test of their skins cracking, which, if they are boiled fast,
+will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, and the
+insides quite hard. Then pour the water off--(if you let the potatoes
+remain in the water a moment after they are done enough, they will
+become waxy and watery),--uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a
+distance from the fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluous
+moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and
+mealy.
+
+You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of the
+saucepan's diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till
+wanted.
+
+This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steaming
+them, and they are dressed in half the time.
+
+There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, it is
+impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is to try
+them with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will generally be done enough
+in fifteen or twenty minutes.
+
+
+PEAS.
+
+    Your infant _peas_ to asparagus prefer;
+    Which to the supper you may best defer.
+                    KING.
+
+Young green peas, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicacies
+of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young. It is equally
+indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they
+are shelled, for they soon lose both their color and sweetness. After
+being shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullender, put them on, in
+plenty of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt; boil them till they
+become tender, which, if young, will be less than half an hour; if old,
+they will require more than an hour. Drain them in a cullender, and put
+them into a dish, with a slice of fresh butter in it. Some people think
+it an improvement to boil a small bunch of mint with the peas; it is
+then minced finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or sides of the
+dish. If peas are allowed to stand in the water, after being boiled,
+they lose their color.
+
+
+RICE.
+
+                Every week dispense
+    English beans or _Carolinian rice_.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Wash the rice perfectly clean; put on one pound in two quarts of cold
+water; let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a sieve, and put it
+before the fire; shake it up with a fork every now and then, to separate
+the grains, and make it quite dry. Serve it hot.
+
+
+TURNIPS.
+
+    On _turnips_ feast whene'er you please,
+    And riot in my beans and peas.
+                    GAY.
+
+Wash, peel, and boil them till tender, in water with a little salt;
+serve them with melted butter. Or they may be stewed in a pint of milk,
+thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with salt
+and pepper, and served with the sauce.
+
+
+SPINACH.
+
+    Much meat doth Gluttony procure,
+      To feed men fat as swine;
+    But he's a frugal man, indeed,
+      That on _the leaf_ can dine.
+
+Pick it very carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or three times; then
+put it on in boiling water with a little salt; let it boil nearly twenty
+minutes. Put it into a cullender; hold it under the watercock, and let
+the water run on it for a minute. Put it into a saucepan; beat it
+perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon; add a bit of butter, and three
+tablespoonfuls of cream. Mix it well together, and make it hot before
+serving.
+
+
+ASPARAGUS.
+
+    At early morn, I to the market haste,
+    (Studious in everything to please thy taste);
+    A curious fowl and _'sparagus_ I chose,
+    (For I remembered you were fond of those).
+                    GAY.
+
+Boil asparagus in salt and water till it is tender at the stalk, which
+will be in twenty or thirty minutes. Great care must be taken to watch
+the exact time of its becoming tender. Toast some bread; dip it lightly
+in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of
+the dish; melt some butter; lay the asparagus upon the toast, which must
+project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see that there is
+toast.
+
+
+CARROTS.
+
+    And when his juicy salads fail'd,
+    Slic'd _carrots_ pleased him well.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. If young spring
+carrots, an hour is enough. When done, rub off the peels with a clean
+coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size.
+The best way to try if they are boiled enough, is to pierce them with a
+fork.
+
+
+LEEKS.
+
+    With carrots red, and turnips white,
+    And _leeks_, Cadwallader's delight,
+    And all the savory crop that vie
+    To please the palate and the eye.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Leeks are most generally used for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes.
+They are very rarely brought to table; in which case dress them as
+follows. Put them in the stock pot till about three parts done; then
+take them out, drain and soak them in vinegar seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and cloves; drain them again, stuff their hearts with a farce, dip
+them in butter, and fry them.
+
+
+
+
+TO DRY HERBS.
+
+    _Herbs_ too she knew, and well of each could speak
+      That in her garden sipp'd the silvery dew,
+    Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak,
+      But herbs, for use and physic, not a few
+    Of gray renown, within those borders grew,--
+      The _tufted basil_, _pun-provoking thyme_,
+    Fresh _balm_, and _marigold_ of cheerful hue,
+      The _lowly gill_, that never dares to climb,
+    And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+
+It is very important to know when the various seasons commence for
+picking sweet and savory herbs for drying. Care should be taken that
+they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better
+color when dried. Cleanse them well from dirt and dust, cut off the
+roots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat
+of the stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such
+quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, _i. e._
+"Kill 'em quick," says a great botanist; by this means their flavor will
+be best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying,
+&c., hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of
+the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution
+requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is afforded
+by the preservation of the color. The best method to preserve the flavor
+of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried,
+and to pound them, and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them in
+well-stopped bottles labelled.
+
+
+
+
+PICKLES.
+
+
+MANGOES.
+
+    What lord of old would bid his cook prepare
+    _Mangoes_, potargo, champignons, caviare!
+                    KING.
+
+There is a particular sort of melon for this purpose. Cut a square small
+piece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, mix with
+them mustard seeds and shred garlic, stuff the melon as full as the
+space will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with small
+new pack-thread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting,
+with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour it boiling over the mangoes, four
+successive days; the last day put flour of mustard and scraped
+horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Observe that there is
+plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled, if not well covered.
+
+
+PICKLED CABBAGE.
+
+    Lives in a cell, and eats from week to week
+    A meal of _pickled cabbage_ and ox cheek.
+                    CAWTHORNE.
+
+Choose two middling-sized, well-colored and firm red cabbages, shred
+them very finely, first pulling off the outside leaves; mix with them
+nearly half a pound of salt; tie it up in a thin cloth, and let it hang
+for twelve hours; then put it into small jars, and pour over it cold
+vinegar that has been boiled with a few barberries in it. Boil in a
+quart of vinegar, three bits of ginger, half an ounce of pepper, and a
+quarter of an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over the red cabbage.
+Tie the jar closely with bladder.
+
+
+
+
+SWEETMEATS.
+
+
+TO CLARIFY SUGAR.
+
+    'Mongst salts essential, _sugar_ wins the palm,
+    For taste, for color, and for various use.
+    O'er all thy works let cleanliness preside,
+    Child of frugality; and as the scum
+    Thick mantles o'er the boiling wave, do thou
+    The scum that mantles carefully remove.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+                            Whereof little
+    More than a little is by much too much.
+                    SHAKSPEARE.
+
+To every three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten white of an egg
+and a pint and a half of water; break the sugar small, put it into a
+nicely cleaned brass pan, pour the water over it; let it stand some time
+before it be put upon the fire, then add the beaten white of the egg;
+stir it till the sugar be entirely dissolved; when it boils up, pour in
+a quarter of a pint of cold water, let it boil up a second time, take it
+off the fire, let it settle for fifteen minutes, carefully take off all
+the scum, let it boil again till sufficiently thick; in order to
+ascertain which, drop a little from a spoon into a jar of cold water,
+and if it become quite hard, it is sufficiently done, and the fruit to
+be preserved must instantly be put in and boiled.
+
+
+CURRANT JELLY.
+
+    He snuffs far off the anticipated joy,
+    _Jelly_ and ven'son all his thoughts employ.
+                    COWPER.
+
+Currant, grape, and raspberry jelly are all made precisely in the same
+manner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day. As soon as
+it is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close.
+Set the jar in a saucepan, about three parts filled with cold water; put
+it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the
+pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag,
+pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To each
+pint of juice, add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded,
+when it is put into a preserving pan; set it on the fire, and boil it
+gently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty
+minutes), _i. e._ till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and
+fine; pour it warm into pots, and when cold, cover them with paper
+wetted in brandy.
+
+Half a pint of this jelly dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar will
+give you an excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar.
+
+_Obs._ Jellies from the fruits are made in the same way, and cannot be
+preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. The best way is
+the cheapest.
+
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+    The board was spread with fruits and wine;
+    With grapes of gold, like those that shine
+      On Caslin's hills; pomegranates, full
+    Of melting sweetness, and the pears
+      And sunniest _apples_ that Cabul
+    In all its thousand gardens bears.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Pare and mince three dozen juicy, acid apples; put them into a pan;
+cover them with water, and boil them till very soft; strain them through
+a thin cloth or flannel bag; allow a pound of loaf sugar to a pint of
+juice, with the grated peel and juice of six lemons. Boil it for twenty
+minutes; take off the scum as it rises.
+
+
+CHERRY JELLY.
+
+    With rich conserve of _Visna cherries_,
+    Of orange flower, and of those berries
+    That----.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the stones and stalks from two pounds of clear, fine, ripe
+cherries; mix them with a quarter of a pound of red currants, from which
+the seeds have been extracted; express the juice from these fruits;
+filter, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar,
+and one ounce of isinglass. Replace the vessel on the fire with the
+juice, and add to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled _a conserve_.
+Boil together a few times, and then pour the conserve into cases.
+
+
+CALVES' FEET JELLY.
+
+    Nature hates vacuums, as you know,
+    We, therefore, will descend below,
+    And fill, with dainties nice and light,
+    The vacuum in your appetite.
+    Besides, good wine and dainty fare
+    Are sometimes known to lighten care;
+    Nay, man is often brisk or dull,
+    As the keen stomach's void or full.
+
+To four feet add four quarts of water; let them boil on a slow fire till
+the flesh is parted from the bones, and the quantity reduced to half;
+strain it carefully, and the next morning remove the feet and sediment.
+Add the rind of two lemons, the juice of five lemons, one and a half
+pounds of white sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a little nutmeg, a pint of
+sherry wine, half a teacupful of brandy; beat the white of ten eggs to a
+froth, and put them into the pan with their shells; let it boil ten
+minutes, when throw in a teacupful of cold water. Strain it through a
+flannel bag, first dipped into boiling water.
+
+
+PINEAPPLE PRESERVE.
+
+    And the _sun's child_, the _mail'd anana_, yields
+    His _regal apple_ to the ravish'd taste.
+                    GRAINGER.
+
+Pare your pineapple; cut it in small pieces, and leave out the core. Mix
+the pineapple with half a pound of powdered white sugar, and set it away
+in a covered dish till sufficient juice is drawn out to stew the fruit
+in.
+
+Stew the pineapple in the sugar and juice till quite soft, then mash it
+to a marmalade with the back of a spoon, and set it away to cool; pour
+it in tumblers, cover them with paper, gum-arabicked on.
+
+
+
+
+EGGS.
+
+
+OMELET.
+
+    Though many, I own, are the evils they've brought us,
+      Though R**al*y's here on her very last legs;
+    Yet who can help loving the land that has taught us
+      Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress _eggs_!
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take as many eggs as you think proper; break them into a pan, with some
+salt and chopped parsley; beat them well, and season them according to
+taste. Have ready some onion, chopped small; put some butter into a
+fryingpan, and when it is hot, put in your chopped onion, giving them
+two or three turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole of a
+nice brown. You must only fry one side; serve the fried side uppermost.
+
+
+TO POACH EGGS.
+
+    But, after all, what would you have me do,
+    When, out of twenty, I can please not two?
+    One likes the pheasant's wing, and one the leg;
+    The vulgar boil, the learned _poach an egg_;
+    Hard task to hit the palate of such guests,
+    When Oldfield loves what Dartineuf detests.
+                    POPE.
+
+The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavor to
+procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days; those that are new
+laid are so milky, that, take all the care you can, your cooking of them
+will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher. You must
+have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poached
+egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which should
+only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil for the
+egg. Have some boiling water in a teakettle; pass as much of it through
+a clean cloth as will half fill a stewpan; break the egg into a cup, and
+when the water boils remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slip
+the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it on a
+very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready.
+Take it up with a slicer, and neatly place it on a piece of toast.
+
+
+BOILED EGGS.
+
+    On holydays, an _egg or two_ at most;
+    But her ambition never reached to roast.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+The fresher laid the better. Put them into boiling water; if you like
+the white just set, about two minutes' boiling is enough. A new-laid egg
+will take a little more. If you wish the yolk to be set, it will take
+three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid egg
+will require longer boiling than a stale one by half a minute.
+
+
+FRIED EGGS.
+
+    Go work, hunt, exercise (he thus begun),
+    Then scorn a homely dinner if you can;
+    _Fried eggs_, and herbs, and olives, still we see:
+    This much is left of old simplicity.
+                    POPE.
+
+Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a second
+course dish, to eat with roast chicken.
+
+
+EGGS AND BREAD.
+
+    Never go to France,
+      Unless you know the lingo;
+    If you do, like me,
+      You'll repent, by jingo.
+    Starving like a fool,
+      And silent as a mummy,
+    There I stood alone,
+      A nation with a dummy.
+
+    Signs I had to make
+      For every little notion;
+    Limbs all going like
+      A telegraph in motion;
+    If I wanted _bread_,
+      My jaws I set a-going,
+    And asked for _new laid eggs_
+      By clapping hands and crowing.
+
+Put half a handful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan, with a small
+quantity of cream, sugar, and nutmeg, and let it stand till the bread
+has imbibed all the cream; then break ten eggs into it, and having
+beaten them up together, fry it like an omelet.
+
+
+OMELETTE SOUFFLE.
+
+    "Where is my favorite dish?" he cried;
+    "Let some one place it by my side!"
+                    DONNE.
+
+Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four (set aside the
+remaining whites), with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and the
+juice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish. Whip the four
+whites which were set aside to a froth with sugar, and place it over the
+fried eggs; bake it for a few minutes.
+
+
+
+
+DESSERTS.
+
+
+PUFF PASTE.
+
+                            The _puffs_ made me light,
+    And now that's all over, I'm pretty well, thank you.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Weigh an equal quantity of flour and butter, rub rather more than half
+the flour into one-third of the butter; add as much cold water as will
+make it into a stiff paste; work it until the butter be completely mixed
+with the flour, make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, dust it, as
+also the rolling-pin with flour, and roll it out towards the opposite
+side of the slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal thickness, then
+with the point of a knife, put little bits of butter all over it, dust
+flour over it and under it, fold in all the sides, and roll it up, dust
+it again with flour, beat it a little, and roll out, always rubbing the
+rolling-pin with flour, and throwing some underneath the paste to
+prevent its sticking to the board.
+
+It should be touched as little as possible with the hands.
+
+
+PYRAMID PASTE.
+
+    You that from pliant _paste_ would fabrics raise,
+    Expecting thence to gain immortal praise,
+    Your knuckles try, and let your sinews know
+    Their power to knead, and give the form to dough;
+    From thence of course the figure will arise,
+    And elegance adorn the surface of your pies.
+                    KING.
+
+Make a rich puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut it
+into five or seven pieces with scalloped tin cutters, which go one
+within another; leave the bottom and top piece entire, and cut a bit out
+of the centre of the others. Place them upon buttered baking tins, and
+bake them of a light brown. Build them into a pyramid, laying a
+different preserved fruit upon each piece of paste, and on the top a
+whole apricot with a sprig of myrtle stuck in it.
+
+
+FRUIT PIES.
+
+    Unless some _sweetness_ at the bottom lie,
+    Who cares for all the crinkling of the pie!
+                    KING.
+
+Fruit pies for family use are generally made with common paste. Allow
+three quarters of a pound of butter to a pound and a half of flour.
+Peaches and plums for pies should be cut in half, and the stones taken
+out. Cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should be
+used for pies. Apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are much
+improved by a little lemon-peel. Apples stewed previous to baking,
+should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. They
+should then be drained in a cullender, and chopped fine with a knife or
+edge of a spoon. In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to set
+a small teacup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit round it. The
+juice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top of
+the pie. The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar,
+and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre.
+
+The upper crust should be pricked with a fork. The edges should be
+nicely crimped with a knife. If stewed fruit is put in warm, it will
+make the paste heavy. If your pies are made in the form of shells, the
+fruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficiently
+done, as the shells (which should be made of puff paste) must not bake
+so long as covered pies.
+
+Fruit pies with lids should have loaf sugar grated over them.
+
+
+MINCE PIES.
+
+    When Terence spoke, oraculous and sly,
+    He'd neither grant the question nor deny,
+    Pleading for tarts, his thoughts were on _mince pie_.
+
+    My poor endeavors view with gracious eye,
+    To make these lines above a _Christmas pie_.
+
+Two pounds of boiled beef's heart or fresh tongue, or lean fresh beef
+chopped, when cold; two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, four pounds of
+pippin apples chopped, two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped, two
+pounds of currants picked, washed, and dried, two pounds of powdered
+sugar, one quart of white wine, one quart of brandy, one wine-glass of
+rose-water, two grated nutmegs, half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered, a
+quarter of an ounce of mace, powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, two large
+oranges, and half a pound of citron cut in slips. Pack it closely into
+stone jars, and tie them over with paper. When it is to be used, add a
+little more wine.
+
+
+PLUM PUDDING.
+
+    All you who to feasting and mirth are inclined,
+    Come, here is good news for to pleasure your mind.
+    Old Christmas is come, for to keep open house:
+    He scorns to be guilty of starving a mouse.
+    Then come, boys, and welcome, for diet the chief,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+    The cooks shall be busied, by day and by night,
+    In roasting and _boiling_, for taste and delight.
+    Provision is making for beer, ale, and wine,
+    For all that are willing or ready to dine.
+    Meantime goes the caterer to fetch in _the chief_,--
+    _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef.
+                    ANCIENT CHRISTMAS CAROL.
+
+One quarter of a pound of beef suet; take out the strings and skin; chop
+it to appear like butter; stone one pound of raisins, one pound of
+currants, well washed, dried, and floured, one pound loaf sugar, rolled
+and sifted, one pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten; beat all well
+together for some time, then add by degrees two glasses of brandy, one
+wine, one rose-water, citron, nutmeg, and cinnamon; beat it all
+extremely well together, tie it in a floured cloth very tight, let it
+boil four hours constantly; let your sauce be a quarter pound of butter,
+beat to a cream, a quarter pound loaf sugar pounded and sifted; beat in
+the butter with a little wine and sugar and nutmeg.
+
+
+COCOANUT PUDDING.
+
+    Whatever was the _best pie_ going,
+    In _that_ Ned--trust him--had his finger.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Take the thin brown skin off of a quarter pound of cocoa, wash it in
+cold water, and wipe it dry; grate it fine, stir three and half ounces
+of butter and a quarter pound of powdered sugar, to a cream; add half
+teaspoonful of rose-water, half glass of wine and of brandy mixed, to
+them. Beat the white of six eggs till they stand alone, and then stir
+them into the butter and sugar; afterwards sprinkle in the grated nut,
+and stir hard all the time. Put puff paste into the bottom of the dish,
+pour in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour. Grate
+loaf sugar over it when cold.
+
+
+APPLE PUDDING.
+
+    Where London's column, pointing to the skies,
+    Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies,
+    There dwelt a citizen of sober fame,
+    A plain, good man, and Balaam was his name;
+    Religious, punctual, frugal, and so forth,
+    His word would pass for more than he was worth;
+    One solid dish his week-day meal affords,
+    And _apple pudding_ solemnized the Lord's.
+                    POPE.
+
+Make a batter of two eggs, a pint of milk and three or four spoonfuls
+of flour; pour it into a deep dish, and having pared six or eight
+apples, place them whole in the batter, and bake them.
+
+
+HASTY PUDDING.
+
+    But man, more fickle, the bold license claims,
+    In different realms, to give thee different names.
+    _Thee_, the soft nations round the warm Levant
+    Polanta call; the French, of course, Polante.
+    E'en in thy native regions, how I blush
+    To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee _mush_!
+    All spurious appellations, void of truth;
+    I've better known thee from my earliest youth:
+    Thy name is _Hasty Pudding_! Thus our sires
+    Were wont to greet thee from the fuming fires;
+    And while they argued in thy just defence,
+    With logic clear, they thus explained the sense:
+    "In _haste_ the boiling caldron, o'er the blaze,
+    Receives and cooks the ready-powdered maize;
+    In haste 'tis served, and then in equal _haste_,
+    With cooling milk, we make the sweet repast.
+    No carving to be done, no knife to grate
+    The tender ear, and wound the stony plate;
+    But the smooth spoon, just fitted to the lip,
+    And taught with art the yielding mass to dip,
+    By frequent journeys to the bowl well stored,
+    Performs the _hasty_ honors of the board."
+    Such is thy name, significant and clear,--
+    A name, a sound, to every Yankee dear;
+    But most to me, whose heart and palate chaste
+    Preserve my pure, hereditary taste.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+
+YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
+
+                      The strong table groans
+    Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch'd immense
+    From side to side; in which with desperate knife
+    They deep incisions make, and talk the while
+    Of England's glory, ne'er to be defaced
+    While hence they borrow vigor; or amain
+    Into the _pudding_ plunged at intervals,
+    If stomach keen can intervals allow,
+    Relating all the glories of the chase.
+                    THOMSON.
+
+This pudding is especially an excellent accompaniment to a sirloin of
+beef. Six tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt,
+and a pint of milk, make a middling stiff batter; beat it up well; take
+care it is not lumpy. Put a dish under the meat; let the drippings drop
+into it, till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter.
+When the upper surface is browned and set, turn it, that both sides may
+be brown alike. A pudding an inch thick will take two hours. Serve it
+under the roast beef, that the juice of the beef may enter it. It is
+very fine.
+
+
+SUET PUDDING.
+
+    Sir Balaam now, he lives like other folks;
+    He takes his chirping, and cracks his jokes.
+    Live like yourself, was soon my lady's word;
+    And lo! _suet pudding_ was seen upon the board.
+                    POPE.
+
+Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoonfuls; eggs two, and a
+little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as
+possible; roll it with the rolling-pin, so as to mix it well with the
+flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix them all
+together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, and boil it an hour and
+a quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it: "When you have made your water boil, then
+put your pudding into your pot."
+
+
+OATMEAL PUDDING.
+
+    Of oats decorticated take two pounds,
+    And of new milk enough the same to drown;
+    Of raisins of the sun, stoned, ounces eight;
+    Of currants, cleanly picked, an equal weight;
+    Of suet, finely sliced, an ounce at least;
+    And six eggs, newly taken from the nest:
+    Season this mixture well with salt and spice;
+    'Twill make a pudding far exceeding rice;
+    And you may safely feed on it like farmers,
+    For the recipe is learned Dr. Harmer's.
+
+
+EVE'S PUDDING.
+
+    If you want a good pudding, mind what you are taught:
+    Take eggs, six in number, when bought for a groat;
+    The fruit with which Eve her husband did cozen,
+    Well pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen;
+    Six ounces of bread--let the cook eat the crust--
+    And crumble the soft as fine as the dust;
+    Six ounces of currants from the stalks you must sort,
+    Lest they husk out your teeth, and spoil all the sport;
+    Six ounces of sugar won't make it too sweet,
+    And some salt and some nutmeg will make it complete.
+    Three hours let it boil, without any flutter,
+    And Adam won't like it without sugar and butter.
+                    ANONYMOUS.
+
+
+CHARLOTTE DES POMMES.
+
+    _Charlotte_, from rennet apples first did frame
+    _A pie_, which still retains her name.
+    Though common grown, yet with white sugar stewed,
+    And butter'd right, its goodness is allowed.
+                    KING.
+
+Pare, core, and mince fifteen French rennet apples; put them into a
+frying-pan with some powdered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon,
+grated lemon-peel, and two ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them a
+quarter of an hour over a quick fire, stirring them constantly. Butter
+the shape the size the Charlotte is intended to be; cut strips of bread
+long enough to reach from the bottom to the rim of the shape, so that
+the whole be lined with bread; dip each bit into melted butter, and put
+a layer of fried apples, and one of apricot jam or marmalade, and then
+one of bread dipped into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake it in an
+oven for an hour. Turn it out to serve.
+
+
+BATTER PUDDING.
+
+    A frugal man, upon the whole,
+    Yet loved his friend, and had a soul;
+    Knew what was handsome, and would do't
+    On just occasion, coute qui coute.
+    He brought him bacon (nothing lean);
+    _Pudding_, that might have pleased a dean;
+    Cheese, such as men of Suffolk make,
+    But wished it Stilton for his sake.
+                    POPE.
+
+Take six ounces of flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it well
+with a little milk, added by degrees, till the batter becomes smooth;
+make it the thickness of cream; put it into a buttered and floured bag;
+tie it tightly; boil one and a half hour, or two hours. Serve with wine
+sauce.
+
+
+APPLE DUMPLINGS.
+
+    By the rivulet, on the rushes,
+    Beneath a canopy of bushes,
+    Colin Blount and Yorkshire Tray
+    Taste the _dumplings_ and the whey.
+                    SMART.
+
+Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking apples; put part of a
+clove and a little grated lemon-peel inside of each, and enclose them in
+pieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits of
+linen, for an hour. Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top of
+each, and put a teaspoonful of sugar and a bit of fresh butter; replace
+the bit of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf sugar.
+
+
+SWEETMEAT FRITTERS.
+
+    If chronicles may be believed,
+    So loved the pamper'd gallant lived,
+    That with the nuns he always dined
+    On rarities of every kind;
+    Then hoards, occasionally varied,
+    Of biscuits, _sweetmeats_, nuts, and fruits.
+
+Cut small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it with a bit of fresh
+butter, some good milk, and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite hot,
+stir in enough of flour to make it into a stiff paste; take it off the
+fire, and work in eight or ten eggs, two at a time. When cold, form the
+fritters, fry, and serve them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over them.
+
+
+FRITTERS.
+
+    Methinks I scent some _rich repast_:
+    The savor strengthens with the blast.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take a dozen apricots, or any other fruit preserved in brandy; drain
+them in half; then wrap them in wafers, cut round, and previously
+moistened. Make the batter by putting a glass and a half of water, a
+grain of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, into a saucepan. When it
+boils, stir in sufficient quantity of flour to make it rather a firm
+batter; keep it stirring three minutes; then pour it into another
+vessel: dip the fruit in this batter, and fry them; sprinkle them with
+sugar, then serve.
+
+
+
+
+CREAMS.
+
+
+ICE CREAM.
+
+    After dreaming some hours of the land of Cocaigne,
+      That Elysium of all that is friand and nice,
+    Where for hail they have bonbons, and claret for rain,
+      And the skaters in winter show off on _cream ice_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+    Here _ice, like crystal firm_, and never lost,
+    Tempers hot July with December's frost.
+                    WALLER.
+
+Put a quart of rich cream into a broad pan; then stir in half a pound of
+powdered loaf sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain it
+through a sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it in
+a tub. Fill the tub with ice broken into small pieces, and strew among
+the ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt gets
+into the cream. Scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes round
+the edges of the tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in gradually the
+juice of two large lemons or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberries
+or raspberries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water;
+take out the cream, and fill your glasses, but not till a few minutes
+before you want to use it, as it will melt very soon.
+
+If you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as it
+is frozen in the tin.
+
+Set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. Just before you want to use the
+cream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefully
+from the outside, dip the moulds into lukewarm water, and turn out the
+cream. You may flavor a quart of ice cream with two ounces of sweet
+almonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten in a
+mortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste.
+
+Stir in the almond gradually, while the cream is freezing.
+
+
+WHIPPED CREAM.
+
+    Pudding our parson eats, the squire loves hare,
+    But _whipped cream_ is my Buxoma's fare,
+    While she loves _whipped cream_, capon ne'er shall be,
+    Nor hare, nor beef, nor pudding, food for me.
+                    GAY.
+
+Sweeten with pounded loaf sugar a quart of cream, and to it a lump of
+sugar which has been rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or little
+oranges; or flavor it with orange flower water, a little essence of
+roses, the juice of strawberries, or any other fruit. Whisk the cream
+well in a large pan, and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it on
+a sieve placed over another pan, and return the cream which drains from
+the froth till all is whisked; then heap it upon a dish, or put it into
+glasses.
+
+
+BOILED CUSTARDS.
+
+    And _boiled custard_, take its merit in brief,
+    Makes a noble dessert, where the dinner's roast beef.
+
+Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream,
+and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the
+seasoning, sweeten enough for the whole; pour it into the cream,
+stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper
+thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; then season
+with a large spoonful of peach-water, and two teaspoonfuls of brandy or
+a little ratafia. If you wish your custards extremely rich, put no milk,
+but a quart of cream.
+
+
+ORANGE CUSTARDS.
+
+    With _orange custards_ and the juicy pine,
+    On choicest melons and sweet grapes they dine.
+                    JONSON.
+
+Sweeten the strained juice of ten oranges with pounded loaf sugar, stir
+it over the fire till hot, take off the scum, and when nearly cold, add
+to it the beaten yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of cream; put it into
+a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve it in
+cups.
+
+
+CUSTARDS OR CREAMS.
+
+    But nicer cates, her dainty's boasted fare,
+    The _jellied cream_ or custards, daintiest food,
+    Or cheesecake, or the cooling syllabub,
+    For Thyrses she prepares.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Whisk for one hour the whites of two eggs, together with two
+tablespoonfuls of raspberry or red currant syrup or jelly; lay it in any
+form of a custard or cream, piled up to imitate rock. It may be served
+in a cream round it.
+
+
+ALMOND CREAMS.
+
+            And from _sweet kernels_ pressed,
+    She tempers _dulcet creams_.
+                    MILTON.
+
+Blanch and pound to a paste, with rose-water, six ounces of almonds; mix
+them with a pint and a half of cream which has been boiled with the peel
+of a small lemon; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over the
+fire till it be thick, taking care not to allow it to boil; sweeten it,
+and when nearly cold, stir in a tablespoonful of orange-flower or
+rose-water.
+
+
+
+
+MISCELLANEOUS.
+
+
+YEAST.
+
+    Not with the leaven, as of old,
+    Of sin and malice fed,
+    But with unfeigned sincerity.
+
+One dozen of potatoes, two cupfuls of hops; put them together in a bag,
+and place them in a pot with two quarts of water; let it boil till the
+potatoes are done; a cupful of salt, a ladle of flour; then pour the
+boiling water over it, then let it stand till lukewarm; add a cupful of
+old yeast, cover it up, and put near the fire till it foments.
+
+
+BREAD.
+
+    His diet was of _wheaten bread_.
+                    COWPER.
+
+    Mixt with the rustic throng, see ruddy maids,
+    Some taught with dextrous hand to twirl the wheel,
+                                      Some expert
+    To raise from _leavened wheat the kneaded loaf_.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+    Her _bread_ is deemed such dainty fare,
+    That ev'ry prudent traveller
+    His wallet loads with many a crust.
+                    COWPER.
+
+              Like the _loaf_ in the Tub's pleasant tale,
+    That was fish, flesh, and custard, good claret and ale,
+    It comprised every flavor, was all and was each,
+    Was grape and was pineapple, nectarine and peach.
+                    LOVILOND.
+
+Mix with six pounds of sifted flour one ounce of salt, nearly half a
+pint of fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brewery, and a sufficient
+quantity of warmed milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, work and
+knead it well on a board, on which a little flour has been strewed, for
+fifteen or twenty minutes, then put it into a deep pan, cover it with a
+warmed towel, set it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour and a
+half or perhaps two hours; cut off a piece of this sponge or dough;
+knead it well for eight or ten minutes, together with flour sufficient
+to keep it from adhering to the board, put it into small tins, filling
+them three quarters full; dent the rolls all around with a knife, and
+let them stand a few minutes before putting them in the oven.
+
+The remainder of the dough must then be worked up for loaves, and baked
+either in or out of shape.
+
+
+RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.
+
+    Of wine she never tasted through the year,
+    But white and black was all her homely cheer,
+    _Brown bread_ and milk (but first she skimmed her bowls),
+    And rasher of singed bacon on the coals.
+                    CHAUCER.
+
+Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well
+together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling upon the meal; add
+two teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let it stand
+till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half a pint of
+good, fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a smaller
+quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it
+to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been previously
+warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light, and has
+cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves; put them into a
+moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.
+
+
+BUTTER.
+
+                                  Vessels large
+    And broad, by the sweet hand of neatness clean'd,
+    Meanwhile, in decent order ranged appear,
+    The milky treasure, strain'd thro' filtering lawn,
+    Intended to receive. At early day,
+    Sweet slumber shaken from her opening lids,
+    My lovely Patty to her dairy hies;
+    There, from the surface of expanded bowls
+    She skims the floating cream, and to her churn
+    Commits the rich consistence; nor disdains,
+    Though soft her hand, though delicate her frame,
+    To urge the rural toil, fond to obtain
+    The country housewife's humble name and praise.
+    Continued agitation separates soon
+    The unctuous particles; with gentler strokes
+    And artful, soon they coalesce; at length
+    Cool water pouring from the limpid spring
+    Into a smooth glazed vessel, deep and wide,
+    She gathers the loose fragments to a heap,
+    Which in the cleansing wave, well wrought and press'd,
+    To one consistent golden mass, receives
+    The sprinkled seasoning, and of pats or pounds
+    The fair impression, the neat shape assumes.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+
+COTTAGE CHEESE.
+
+                  Warm from the cow she pours
+    The milky flood. An acid juice infused,
+    From the dried stomach drawn of suckling calf,
+    Coagulates the whole. Immediate now
+    Her spreading hands bear down the gathering curd,
+    Which hard and harder grows, till, clear and thin,
+    The green whey rises separate.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+Warm three half pints of cream with one half pint of milk, and put a
+little rennet to it; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled;
+have a proper mould with holes, either of china or any other; put the
+curds into it to drain, about one hour or less. Serve it with a good
+plain cream, and pounded sugar over it.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES.
+
+
+BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
+
+    Do, dear James, mix up the cakes:
+    Just one quart of meal it takes;
+    Pour the water on the pot,
+    Be careful it is not too hot;
+    Sift the meal well through your hand,
+    Thicken well--don't let it stand;
+    Stir it quick,--clash, clatter, clatter!
+    O what light, delicious batter!
+    Now listen to the next command:
+    On the dresser let it stand
+    Just three quarters of an hour,
+    To feel the gently rising power
+    Of powders, melted into yeast,
+    To lighten well this precious feast.
+    See, now it rises to the brim!
+    Quick, take the ladle, dip it in;
+    So let it rest, until the fire
+    The griddle heats as you desire.
+    Be careful that the coals are glowing,
+    No smoke around its white curls throwing;
+    Apply the suet, softly, lightly;
+    The griddle's black face shines more brightly.
+    Now pour the batter on; delicious!
+    Don't, dear James, think me officious,
+    But lift the tender edges lightly;
+    Now turn it over quickly, sprightly.
+    'Tis done! Now on the white plate lay it:
+    Smoking hot, with butter spread,
+    'Tis quite enough to turn our head!
+
+
+JOHNNY CAKES.
+
+    Some talk of hoecake, fair Virginia's pride!
+    Rich _Johnny cake_ this mouth has often tried;
+    Both please me well, their virtues much the same;
+    Alike their fabric, as allied their fame.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+A quart of sifted Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour sifted; mix
+them; three eggs, well beaten; two tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's
+yeast, or flour of home made yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quart
+of milk.
+
+
+MUFFINS.
+
+    Friend, I am a shrewd observer, and will guess
+    What cakes you doat on for your favorite mess.
+                    ARMSTRONG.
+
+Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast;
+strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a
+batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has
+risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butter
+rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficient
+flour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour;
+work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round,
+and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them.
+
+
+PANCAKES.
+
+    With all her haughty looks, the time I've seen
+    When the proud damsel has more humble been;
+    When with nice airs she hoist the _pancake_ round,
+    And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, three
+tablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold,
+the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a
+pint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pour
+it thin over the pan.
+
+
+PLUM-CAKE.
+
+                              First in place,
+    _Plum-cake_ is seen o'er smaller pastry ware,
+    And ice on that.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining them
+through a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a large
+dish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing the
+dish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins,
+cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted
+flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When the
+currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour.
+
+Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered;
+sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass of
+wine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut a
+pound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift a
+pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a pound
+of butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for
+it to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat twelve
+eggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugar
+alternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice and
+liquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, taking
+care that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, for
+ten minutes after the ingredients are in.
+
+Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets of
+white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Then
+spread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put a
+layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all is
+in, having a layer of mixture at the top.
+
+This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to its
+thickness.
+
+Ice it next day.
+
+
+LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Must see Rheims, much famed, 'tis said,
+    For making kings and _gingerbread_.
+                    MOORE.
+
+Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint of
+sugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls of
+ginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of allspice,
+three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir the
+butter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molasses
+at once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, and
+stir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirring
+all the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the
+last. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter an
+earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it.
+Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness,
+or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins.
+
+
+SHREWSBURY CAKES.
+
+    And here each season do _those cakes_ abide,
+    Whose honored names the inventive city own,
+    Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, into
+three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to three
+eggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &c.; then pour into it as
+much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out.
+
+Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bake
+on tins.
+
+
+HONEY-CAKE.
+
+    In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie
+    Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye;
+    In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail,
+    Or _honeyed cakes_, which gods themselves regale.
+                    PARNELL.
+
+One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound of
+honey, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound
+of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powdered
+ginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with the
+honey, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it
+into small cakes of any form.
+
+
+NAPLES BISCUITS.
+
+    Though I've consulted Holinshed and Stow,
+    I find it very difficult to know
+    Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave,
+    Burnt claret first or _Naples biscuit_ gave.
+                    KING.
+
+Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powdered
+sugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well,
+and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them.
+
+
+GINGERBREAD.
+
+    Whence oft with sugared cates she doth 'em greet,
+    And _gingerbread_, if rare, now certes doubly sweet.
+                    SHENSTONE.
+
+To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix four
+ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace,
+allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine as
+possible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as much
+flour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cut
+it in cakes.
+
+
+SPONGE CAKE.
+
+    On _cake_ luxuriously I dine,
+    And drink the fragrance of the vine,
+    Studious of elegance and ease,
+    Myself alone I seek to please.
+                    GAY.
+
+Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of
+finely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then,
+beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it till
+it will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times the
+two other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight
+minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as much
+as the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which must
+be beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel,
+and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it in
+a large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them.
+
+
+SUGAR BISCUITS.
+
+    This happy hour elapsed and gone,
+    The time of drinking tea comes on.
+    The kettle filled, the water boiled,
+    The cream provided, the _biscuits_ piled.
+    And lamp prepared; I straight engage
+    The Lilliputian equipage
+    Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs,
+    And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs.
+                    DODSLEY.
+
+The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four in
+dried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beat
+the sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and a
+little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them as
+French biscuits.
+
+
+DERBY CAKE.
+
+    Some bring a capon, some _Derby cake_,
+    Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make
+    The better cheesecakes, bring them.
+
+Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
+flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one
+egg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cut
+it into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and
+put them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes.
+
+
+CRACKNELS.
+
+    However, you shall home with me tonight,
+    Forget your cares, and revel in delight;
+    I have in store a pint or two of wine,
+    Some _cracknels_, and the remnant of a chine.
+                    SWIFT.
+
+Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste,
+adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour on
+them a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of two
+lemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound of
+flour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead them
+together till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut the
+cracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk of
+egg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on a
+buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care they
+do not burn.
+
+
+CHEESECAKES.
+
+    Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet,
+    For pies and _cheesecakes_ are for damsels meet.
+                    GAY.
+
+Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, and
+stir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (this
+will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it
+remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd
+into a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound
+it quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and three
+ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting
+pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat the
+yolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel,
+and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants
+washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready
+lined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them all
+round the edge, and fill each with the curd.
+
+Bake them twenty minutes.
+
+
+BRIDE CAKE.
+
+    The bridal came; great the feast,
+    And good the _bride cake_ and the priest.
+                    SMART.
+
+Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded and
+sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of
+nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick four
+pounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound of
+sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a
+pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint of
+brandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar a
+quarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth;
+mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour at
+least, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, and
+nutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy;
+beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets of paper
+round the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub it
+well with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers,
+with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover it
+with paper.
+
+It takes three hours baking.
+
+
+KISSES.
+
+    "I never give a _kiss_," says Prue,
+      "To naughty man, for I abhor it."
+    She will not give a _kiss_, 'tis true,
+      She'll take one, though, and thank you for it.
+                    FROM THE FRENCH.
+
+One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites of
+four eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly.
+Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in
+gradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon,
+and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of
+a square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful of
+currant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggs
+and sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on the
+mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round
+smooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored,
+they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Lay
+them lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two
+bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball.
+
+
+SWEET MACAROONS.
+
+    Where _cakes_ luxuriant pile the spacious dish,
+      And purple nectar glads the festive hour,
+    The guest, without a want, without a wish,
+      Can yield no room to music's soothing power.
+                    JOHNSON.
+
+Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a few
+minutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-four
+hours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, adding
+occasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a fine
+paste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it;
+then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beat
+these ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as many
+eggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin,
+but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste being
+ready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of
+white paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least an
+inch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, would
+touch.
+
+The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins in
+a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour.
+
+This kind of cake requires great care.
+
+
+SYLLABUB.
+
+    Mountown! the Muses' most delicious theme,
+    O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream!
+    The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown,
+    To add a redder tincture to their own!
+    Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club,
+    To make that gentle viand--_syllabub_!
+                    KING.
+
+    Not all thy plate, how formed soe'er it be,
+    Can please my palate like a bowl of thee.
+                    BARLOW.
+
+In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or other
+white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes cover
+it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put pounded
+cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareil
+comfits.
+
+
+BEER OR ALE.
+
+    O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew,
+    Consider well what you're about to do;
+    Be very wise, very sedately think
+    That what you're now going to make is _drink_;
+    Consider who must drink that drink, and then
+    What 'tis to have the praise of _honest_ men;
+    For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last,
+    'Tis Peggy will be _toasted or disgraced_.
+    Then if thy _ale_ in glass thou wouldst confine,
+    To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine,
+    Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry,
+    Lest a white substance to the surface fly,
+    And floating there disturb the curious eye;
+    But this great maxim must be understood,
+    "_Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good_."
+    Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,
+    That nymph that _brewed and bottled ale so well_!
+                    KING.
+
+Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for
+either, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on at
+once, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the first
+half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the
+hops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a pound
+to a bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, two
+hours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add three
+quarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when
+ready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, as
+usual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working;
+and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops,
+dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.
+
+Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be
+drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be
+brewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottles
+are perfectly prepared, and _the corks are of the best sort_.
+
+The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg be
+never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow two
+gallons of water, at first, for waste.
+
+After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half
+for the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed.
+Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &c.
+
+
+ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS.
+
+    'Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old,
+      (And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!)
+    One night, 'mid their revels, by Bacchus were told,
+      That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out.
+
+    But determined to send round the goblet once more,
+      They sued to the fairer mortals for aid
+    In composing a draught, which till drinking were o'er,
+      Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade.
+
+    Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn,
+      And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain,
+    And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn,
+      Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again.
+
+    Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board
+      Were scattered profusely, in every one's reach,
+    When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard,
+      Express'd the mild juice of the delicate peach.
+
+    The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on,
+      With glances so fraught with sweet magical power,
+    That the honey of Hybla, e'en when they were gone,
+      Has never been missed in the draught from that hour.
+
+    Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook,
+      And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl,
+    All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook,
+      The _herb_ whose aroma should flavor the whole.
+
+    The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim,
+      Though something yet wanting they all did bewail;
+    But _juleps_ the drink of immortals became,
+      When Jove himself added a handful of hail.
+                    HOFFMAN.
+
+
+PUNCH.
+
+    Four elements, joined in
+      An emulous strife,
+    Fashion the world, and
+      Constitute life.
+
+    From the sharp citron
+      The starry juice pour;
+    Acid to life is
+      The innermost core.
+
+    Now, let the sugar
+      The bitter one meet;
+    Still be life's bitter
+      Tamed down with the sweet!
+
+    Let the bright water
+      Flow into the bowl;
+    Water, the calm one,
+      Embraces the whole.
+
+    Drops from the spirit
+      Pour quick'ning within,
+    Life but its life from
+      The spirit can win.
+
+    Haste, while it gloweth,
+      Your vessels to bring;
+    The wave has but virtue
+      Drunk hot from the spring.
+                    TRANSLATED FROM SCHILLER.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  A la Braise, Beef, 37
+  Artichokes, 75
+  Asparagus, 80
+  Apple Dumplings, 106
+  Apple Pudding, 100
+  Almond Creams, 111
+  Ale, 133
+
+  Broth, Chicken, 24
+  Boiled Salmon, 29
+  Beef, Roast, 36
+  Beef, Baked with Potatoes, 38
+  Beef, Ragout, 39
+  Beef, Kidneys, 39
+  Broiled Beefsteaks, 40
+  Beef, Salt, 42
+  Birds, Potted, 58
+  Beans, Lima, 75
+  Batter Pudding, 105
+  Butter, 115
+  Bread, 112
+  Bride Cake, 128
+  Biscuits, Naples, 123
+  Biscuits, Sugar, 125
+  Buckwheat Cakes, 117
+  Beer, 133
+
+  Calf's Liver, Roasted, 44
+  Calf's Head, Surprised, 45
+  Calf's Head, Roasted, 46
+  Capon, 51
+  Chicken Croquettes, 51
+  Carrots, 81
+  Cranberry Sauce, 70
+  Caper Sauce, 70
+  Cabbage, Pickled, 85
+  Cocoanut Pudding, 100
+  Charlotte des Pommes, 104
+  Custards or Creams, 111
+  Custards, Boiled, 110
+  Cottage Cheese, 116
+  Cheesecakes, 127
+  Cracknels, 126
+
+  Derby Cakes, 126
+
+  Eggs, To Poach, 91
+  Eggs, Boiled, 92
+  Eggs and Bread, 93
+  Eggs, Fried, 93
+  Eve's Pudding, 104
+
+  Fish White, To Stew, 25
+  Fish White, Another Way to Stew, 26
+  Fish Brown, To Stew, 27
+  Forcemeat Balls, 60
+  Fowl a la Hollandaise, 49
+  Fruit Pies, 96
+  Fritters, 107
+  Fritters, Sweetmeat, 106
+
+  Gingerbread, Lafayette, 121
+  Gingerbread, 124
+
+  Hams, To Cure, 52
+  Ham Pies, 53
+  Hare, Roasted, 54
+  Herbs, 82
+  Hasty Pudding, 101
+  Honey Cake, 123
+
+  Ice Cream, 109
+  Indian and Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Jelly, Currant, 87
+  Jelly, Cherry, 89
+  Jelly, Apple, 88
+  Jelly, Calves' feet, 89
+  Johnny Cakes, 118
+
+  Ketchup, Mushroom, 65
+  Kisses, 129
+
+  Lobster, Boiled, 30
+  Larks, 58
+  Leeks, 81
+
+  Mutton, Leg of, 52
+  Macaroni Gratin, 63
+  Mint Sauce, 69
+  Mushrooms, To Stew, 64
+  Mangoes, 84
+  Mince Pies, 98
+  Macaroons, Sweet, 130
+  Muffins, 118
+  Mint Juleps, Origin of, 135
+
+  Naples Biscuit, 123
+
+  Oatmeal Pudding, 103
+  Oysters, 31
+  Oysters, Fried, 31
+  Oysters, Stewed, 32
+  Oysters, Scalloped, 33
+  Oyster Loaves, 33
+  Oyster Pattie, 62
+  Ortolans, To Roast, 56
+  Onion Sauce, 74
+  Omelet, 91
+  Omelette, Souffle, 94
+  Orange Custards, 110
+
+  Perch with Wine, 27
+  Patties for Fried Bread, 62
+  Pheasants, To Roast, 56
+  Potatoes, 76
+  Peas, 78
+  Pineapple Preserve, 90
+  Puff Paste, 95
+  Pyramid Paste, 96
+  Plum Pudding, 99
+  Plum Cake, 120
+  Pancakes, 119
+  Punch, 137
+
+  Roasted Sturgeon, 28
+  Rabbits, Fricasseed, 54
+  Rice, 79
+  Rye Bread, 114
+
+  Soup, Turtle, 21
+  Scotch Haggis, 41
+  Scotch Collops, 44
+  Salmis of Wild Duck, 47
+  Stewed Duck and Peas, 48
+  Salad, To Dress, 73
+  Spinach, 79
+  Sponge Cake, 124
+  Superlative Sauce, 68
+  Syllabub, 132
+  Sugar, To Clarify, 86
+  Suet Pudding, 103
+  Shrewsbury Cakes, 122
+
+  Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, 43
+  Truffles, 63
+  Turkey, Boiled, 50
+  Turkey, Devilled, 50
+  Turnips, 79
+
+  Venison, 35
+  Venison, Pasty, 36
+  Veal, Stewed Fillet, 45
+  Veal, Stuffing for, 60
+  Vol au Vent, 61
+  Vegetables, 72
+
+  Woodcocks, 57
+  Whipped Cream, 109
+
+  Yorkshire Pudding, 102
+  Yeast, 112
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+
+  The following typographical errors have been fixed:
+
+  Page    Error
+  44      stew the liver changed to sew the liver
+  Footnote 56-*  leur foie.' changed to leur foie."
+  74      KING changed to KING.
+  77      uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan
+  126     to night changed to tonight
+
+  Inconsistently spelled words
+
+  Cawthorn / Cawthorne
+  fryingpan / frying-pan
+  lemon juice / lemon-juice
+  pates / pates
+  peppercorns / pepper-corns
+  stewpan / stew-pan
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Poetical Cook-Book, by Maria J. Moss
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A POETICAL COOK-BOOK ***
+
+***** This file should be named 25631.txt or 25631.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/5/6/3/25631/
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain material produced by
+Microsoft for their Live Search Books site.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.