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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Black Beaver, by
+James Campbell Lewis and George Edward Lewis
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Black Beaver
+       The Trapper
+
+Author: James Campbell Lewis
+        George Edward Lewis
+
+Release Date: August 14, 2008 [EBook #26615]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLACK BEAVER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Greg Bergquist and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  Transcriber's Note
+
+  The punctuation and spelling from the original text have been faithfully
+  preserved. Only obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+
+
+  BLACK BEAVER
+  THE TRAPPER
+
+  The Only Book Ever
+  Written by a Trapper
+
+  TWENTY-TWO YEARS WITH
+  BLACK BEAVER
+
+  LEWIS AND CLARK
+  A HUNDRED YEARS LATER
+
+  _FROM THE AMAZON_
+  _TO THE MACKENZIE RIVERS_
+
+
+
+COPYRIGHTED BY GEO. EDWARD LEWIS.
+
+YEAR 1911.
+
+[Illustration: "THE FOUNDERS OF THE FIRST ARCTIC ALASKAN EDUCATIONAL
+EXHIBITION."]
+
+[Illustration: BLACK BEAVER AS ARCTIC JIM AT CAMP NEAR MT. McKINLEY]
+
+
+
+
+THE AUTHOR'S EXCUSE.
+
+
+I am both sorry and glad to inform my readers--that I can neither read
+nor write.
+
+It would seem absurd for a blind man to study the stars, Or for a deaf
+man to study music; so it might seem to you absurd for a man who cannot
+write to write a book. But I have an excuse for writing these events.
+The President of Mexico; and the Governor of Alaska together with
+several hundreds between, equally as popular have urged me to write my
+history. I am sorry I cannot write this with my own fingers but I have a
+substitute in my old back-woods chum--The Kidd. Who by the way--neither
+writes very flourishing, because he like myself has done the most of his
+writing with his six-shooter; because you know this a more expressive
+way of talking and a more impressive way of writing. I have a brother
+who is a real educated gentleman, he tried to dissuade me from
+publishing my history because I think he is afraid he will be outshone
+by literary merit. I have no ambition to outshine him, nor William
+Shakespere nor any other erudite. I have a very limited vocabulary, and
+since swearing and smoking are not allowed in print, I shall have to
+loose the biggest half of that. I shall omit foreign language, I could
+assault you with Mex--or Siwash but I fear you could not survive the
+battery. So I shall confine myself to simple speech, such as I have used
+in all lands. From Gotch my bronco to Arctic my dog. It has served me
+since I was six summers old It served me amid the bells of Peru and then
+afar amid the Agate Eyed squaws of The Kuskokwim; and this ought to be a
+good excuse.--Yours truly
+
+  J.C. LEWIS.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+
+I have undertaken the arduous task of rewriting that which was never
+written. My charge was "fix it up but do not change it." These words
+were hurled at me one morning at four o'clock in the month of April, as
+my big brother boarded the Overland Limited bound for the Iditarod
+Alaska. He had in that far-away region five-hundred skins in cache which
+he had taken from the backs of the costiliest animals that ran in
+northland world. In various parts of Alaska Black Beaver had treasures
+which he was now intent upon gathering to fit up an outfit to be known
+as "The Arctic Alaskan Educational Exhibition" Perhaps no other man in
+this country can tell such amusing and beneficial stories about travels,
+fatigue and furs As the Author of this book. This was the creative force
+which suggested the organization of this party. Black Beaver has
+traveled as no other man ever traveled in Alaska, four times in as many
+years he crossed the entire country by dog-team in a diagonal way from
+Dawson to Point Barrow and from Gnome to The mouth of the Mackinzie
+river. Being able to speak several indian dialects, he was able converse
+with Siwash, Mucklock, Malimouth and other types getting the most
+valuable kind of information. You have never read a book written by a
+trapper. Usually some smooth gent makes up a romance and puts them in
+other mouths--but this is not true of this book. It is a true experience
+of the life and labors of the Author. Respectfully submitted Sept 1911.
+
+GEO. EDWARD LEWIS.
+
+
+
+
+BLACK BEAVER THE TRAPPER.
+
+
+At the age of four years I began to pick up arms against small birds and
+animals. At the age of five I began to trap around my father's
+corn-shocks. When I reached my sixth year my father bought me a dog and
+he was my constant companion for many years. At the age of five years I
+began to make Bows and arrows, and cross guns, likewise sling shots. My
+first experience was with by bros, George and Lee in killing a
+woodchuck. And from this time my adventures began to multiply. All kinds
+of small animals fell before my accurate aim.
+
+My adventursome father had crossed the great plains as early as 1846. He
+was thrilled to the core with the bold and desperate experiences of the
+wild western world. On his way he met and formed the acquaintance Of
+several of the noted trappers and explorers, as well as the acquaintance
+of the most daring and dangerous savages that ever rode the arena of the
+Great American Desert.
+
+My chief joy from in fancy was to have my father tell me his dangerous
+travels and exploits in the early west. I was continually begging my
+older brother to read about Kit Carson Daniel Boone and other pioneers.
+At the age of seven years I took a notion that I wanted a gun. Bows and
+arrows, cross-bows sling-shots knives and hatchets were too tame for me.
+I sought an occasion when my father was away, to get from my mother the
+needed information, how to load and discharge a gun. One day when all
+were away I stole my fathers gun. It was a double barreled muzzle
+loader, one barrel shot and the other rifle. I had quite an
+experience--I saw a partridge just as I entered the woods budding in the
+top of an old birch tree. I leveled the gun up against an old ash tree
+and fired I had never before fired a gun, I held it rather loosely
+aginst my shoulder and the recoil lamed my arm and bloodeyed my pug
+noose. But this was soon forgotten when I saw I had plugged my meat. In
+haste I began to load to prepare for another bird--I seized The patch
+put mr ball on the patch took mr ramrod and rammed home the ball alas!
+just as I was pounding her home I remembered I had forgotten something
+quite necessary in loading a gun--it was the powder. I was in a
+terrorable fix then--I first thought I would hasten home put up the gun
+and let father get out of the fix the best he could. But after taking a
+second thought I concluded that I would not be a whit behind the Father
+of his country--but while I had stolen I could not tell a lie--so I
+repeated the reckless boy's adage--Scolding don't hurt you whipping
+don't last long killing they dare not"--After considering the whole
+predicament--I concluded that I rather have a flogging than deny my
+pluck and luck by killing my game. So I related to father my deed; he
+simply laughed and took the gun in the back yard pricked some fine
+powder in the tube--put on a cap and shot the ball out slick and easy.
+The winter of my sixth year I had planed on trapping small fur bearing
+game--but my parents had planned on me going to school. So they bought
+me some books and the first of October I was drilled off to school. I
+soon got into trouble at school and the third day traded off my books
+for an old gun. the next day I started for school as usual, but after I
+was over the hill I turned from the path of duty and education for the
+adventurous path of hunting and trapping. I would go to the place I had
+hidden my gun the night before and go into the woods and spend the day
+returning as school let out. I worked this for about three weeks without
+being discovered. I had an older brother who suspected me and finally he
+found me in the woods, took my gun from me and broke it around a
+tree--he did this because the gun was unsafe it was all tied up with
+wire and strings to bind the barrel to the stock--my first gun was a
+bloomer.
+
+The following fall I killed my first coon. My brother Lee who is two
+years older than myself and I were shooting at a mark in the wood-shed
+one rainy fall day, and lo and behold to our surprise a coon came
+walking in on us--instantly we flew at the fellow, I, with an ax he with
+a club--the coon lasted about two seconds--the yells and disturbance
+brought my father and brother to the scene, I was declaring that I had
+killed it and my Brother Lee was making the same statements both of us
+were talking at the limit of lung power--when my brother who was older
+discovered that there was a ribbon around the coons neck and a gold ring
+attached showing us this he said "this is a pet coon." At once we
+reversed our arguments each declaring that we did not kill the coon.
+
+The beginning of my eight year I coaxed father to allow me to spend the
+winter trapping with a man named Walker on the head waters of the
+Manistee river. finally he consented and I was the happiest boy on
+earth. Hastily I made my toilet for the winter and set out on snow shoes
+the middle of November. After several days of brisk and difficult
+walking we reached Wild goose creek. Here we made a camp and began to
+set traps. I had no gun for it was intended that I was to cook and skin
+game. This proved to be my first experience with larger game. Five days
+after we struck camp we caught a black bear in a deadfall. It was here
+at wild goose creek that I first began running trap lines under an old
+rocky mountain trapper. And here where I also learned to skin, bait
+traps, make dead falls and cut and sew up my own clothes, make snow
+shoes and paddle canoes, build camps and learn the various tricks of
+indians and trappers, also how to doctor myself when sick and to avoid
+the dangers of the wilderness. All too soon the mid-winter came and
+there being no high line game to trap The trapper made up his mind to
+move homeward. On the sixteenth day of January we began our march for a
+town called South Boardman. We had to pack about thirty pounds apiece it
+was thirty five miles to our destination. The first night we camped in
+the snow the next evening a half hour after dark we reached town; here
+we took a train for home and reached it about mid-night. My father
+divided the fur taking my share for his pay. The balance of the winter I
+hunted and trapped near home--and when spring came I hunted ginseng and
+later picked huckle berries meanwhile I learned to speak the Chippewa
+language.
+
+I sold my gingseng and berries for more money than my father knew of and
+bought a good gun and two revolvers together with considerable
+amunition. This year I was in the Company of my Brother Lee and
+to-gether we practiced with guns and revolvers till we thought we were
+the best shots in the Co. Our rapid firing often aroused the settlers,
+and they began to talk about us saying "we were growing up to be
+outlaws." This greatly pleased us. Just befor I was nine years old my
+folks got it into their heads to send me to school agin, thinking I
+might be Henry Clay or Govener Mud or some other larkie--as usual I
+raked up a row and the teacher had us expelled for carrying six shooters
+in our dinner pails.
+
+When we came home that day my father and mother held a long council over
+us and finally called us in and father said--"I have tried to make
+something out of you but you will never be anything but a
+blockheads--and I might as well make good indians out of you as poor
+ones." so he allowed us to use our guns smoke and chew rag-weed to our
+hearts content. My next experience was with two of the best trappers
+that ever bent steel in Michigan. Solitary Parson and Frank Johnson. We
+were out three months and made good hauls, they gave me one fourth of
+the fur, which was a neat sum. I then spent several weeks at target
+practice, my daily stunt was splitting bullets on the bit of an ax forty
+feet away. I soon became the crack rifle shot in the country. One
+evening I tied two hills of corn together while father was milking and
+when father started for the house his toe taught in the loup up in the
+air went the milk down on the ground came Father with about twelve
+quarts of milk running down his back.
+
+This was enough for father he had ben out of patience with me many
+times: but now this act provoked him so he ordered me away from home. I
+had few clothes and no satched. I was the baby of the family, yet not A
+very delicate sample of a baby. I had the fire burning for adventure in
+my young bosom, I bade my mother good bye as I went to bed, she never
+knew how long it would be till she kissed to sleep those black marbles,
+as she used to call my eyes; I arose at about one oclock in the morning
+and roused up my brother picked up our kit and set out for the Twin
+bridges of the Boardman fifteen miles away.
+
+I was still in my ninth year and my brother was eleven, we camped up in
+the swamp nearly all summer then in the fall hunted and trapped on the
+Cedar river. When spring time came in we sold our furs for $200,00 and
+took the Train for the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.
+
+We stopped at the mining districts where there were scores of Cornish
+Miners. There was a widow there with whom my brother lived and worked
+all the time for about two years. He was quite a musician this widow
+bought him a high grade Stewart Banjo and then she fell in love first
+with his playing and then with his banjo and lastly of all with him.
+Love stole my partner. I have had many but none like Lone Lee The
+Mountain Musician. After loosing my Pal I began to learn to face the
+wilderness alone. Nero my Dog, my associate from infancy was killed by a
+wolf and I was left alone.
+
+When whiteman seemed to fail fate overcame me in the form of an indian.
+This indian was the famous Shopnegon. We trapped together on the Indian
+river following down into lower michigan we also trapped the dead
+stream, Ausable, Tobacco and into the Houghton lake country here
+Shopnegon christened me as Black Beaver for I had actually trapped one.
+this was the only Black Beaver Shopnegon had ever seen and the only one
+I ever saw and I have seen some.
+
+This was the winter of my tenth year I was big healthy and strong. I had
+never been sick except having the Pneumonia and occasionally a bad cold.
+Early in the spring we broke camp bid each other goodbye I loaded my
+pack and furs weighing about forty pounds and started for Fife Lake. I
+had no intention of seeing my folks but in Fife Lake was another
+attraction which I will come to later. I had to get home about fifty
+miles to cover. the way was beset with tangled forests, swollen streams,
+melting snows not a blaze to mark the way. I had lived on mushrat for
+forty days and the first day out I shot a doe, and added about ten
+pounds to my load, this meat was quite an improvement on rat. the
+evening of the third day I camped on Hopkins creek under an old hemlock
+tree. My dogs kept me awake nearly all night with their barks and
+growls, once I was awakened by a twig falling in my face, in the morning
+I was at once attracted by a sliding noise which I soon discovered to be
+a Lynx bracing to leap, I slung my gun to my shoulder and the lynx was
+past danger instantly, I afterward learned this Lynx had killed a boy in
+the neighborhood by the name of Harrison.
+
+Adding another pelt to my pack I reached Fife Lake just before Sundown
+and waited for dark before entering town. After dark I went straight to
+the home of My old friend who was not so aged as I.W.O. Clark. his
+mother had died meanwhile the only thing which had restrained him from
+joining me the year before. I did not wish to show up in Northtown so
+Willie sold my fur for me and we equiped ourselves for the Lewis and
+Clark Expedition. In august of that same year after our money was all
+gone but eleven cents: and I had not been seen by anybody who knew me
+Clark and I walked over to Kingsley ten miles away carrying our only
+possessions in the world, we had decided to go westward where we might
+hunt trap and enjoy ourselves unmolested, the evening found us waiting
+for a freight train which we were to take; hoping to hobo our way to
+Denver Colorado.
+
+
+
+
+Westward Bound
+
+
+It is a long way from Kingsley Michigan to Denver Colorado. But we
+covered the ground in three weeks. We took slideing door palace cars all
+the way, and slept nights covered with an evening news, begged handouts
+at back doors; and ate our meals with the widow green. I was coming
+eleven Clark was just past seven, two old and experienced duffers to go
+west for freedom.
+
+Before leaving Michigan I formed the acquaintance of Waterloo chief of
+the Potowatimies. He had taught me many things which were to be of great
+service in the west. When we arrived in Denver we were not hailed as
+some great individuals are but we overlooked that--(since then We have
+been well used in Denver) We secured a lunch took our truck and struck
+northward. The following day we pulled up to a farmers house by the name
+of Straub. He had two bears he had caught, and hired us to tame them. I
+guess he thought our appearance would tame a Rhinoceros. I assumed the
+responsibility--and gave him the threadbare recipe "No cure no pay"
+Together we did the job in two weeks and for our service Mr. Straub gave
+us some new clothes, our board and $25,00 From here we steered our way
+to North Platte Nebraska. I hired out to John McCoullough. to herd
+cattle, and sent my son Willie as I called him and have ever since--to
+school in North Platte.
+
+The Cow-boys of that region usually had great sport with tenderfeet; but
+they were great mind readers and passed me off as experienced, owing to
+my age and accurate shooting. That year I learned to ride a horse, in
+fact paid more attention to that then I did to herding cattle; but I
+took my pay without any remorse of conscience.
+
+The following year The Kid and I planned to go on a trapping expedition
+to the Rocky mountains. So as luck would have it we accidentally fell in
+with two hale fellows, inured to hardships, careless as the law allowed,
+and prime always for sport and adventure. Both of them could shoot well
+and ride like Mazzeppas. They also understood the plains and mountains
+but were tyros at trapping.
+
+We purchased four wild horses and on the first day of October started
+for Cola with covered wagons. This was my first experience over the
+plains in a real prairie schooner. We followed the south Platte to
+Sterling And from there we struck west and went through the Pawnee pass.
+Then we Took the old gun-barrel road back to Colorado. We camped one
+evening in Rattlesnake gulch; about midnight I heard a buzz I arose
+rather suddenly layed back the cover and saw within six inches of my
+son's face a large old diamond back rattler. It was close and short work
+to dispatch him but I succeeded, the report of my gun brought all hands
+to their feet they examined the headless reptile, and were soon again
+lost in slumber. after while we arrived safely at Fort Collins bought a
+supply of food and other necessaries and took the trail for the head
+waters of La-Cash-a-po-da. We reached Pan-handle creek about twenty-five
+miles from Log-Cabin Post Office.
+
+In due time we pitched camp and set our traps. One line of traps
+extended to Larmie river; And the other to the forks of the Cache
+LaPuche. We set for gray wolves, mountain lion, grizzley bear, mink,
+otter and foxes. We had good luck and made a large catch of fur and drew
+some large bounties. The following summer we sold off our whole kit to
+some trappers who went to Jackson hole, and we took our little stake of
+$2,122,00 and spent our summer in Chicago, Denver and St. Louis.
+
+The next winter Clark and I: for we were alone again, went to New
+Windsor and trapped Rat on Storms Lake. We also caught a lot of skunk
+and coyotes, with fair success we continued til spring and took all our
+fur nearly $3,000,00 worth and sold to different houses in the East.
+Then we bought good clothes, I managed to visit parks and ride shoot the
+shoots Conversed with Indians and enquired of strangers concerning good
+trapping grounds through the summer--while Clark studied so he could do
+our writing. That winter we trapped in Pine Bluffs Wyoming. For Coyotes,
+Rat and skunk, But we grew tired toward spring and moved To Scotts Bluff
+Nebraska, where we finished the winter and sold out in the spring I
+lounged around and got pointers and the Kid attended school as we did
+the year previous.
+
+
+
+
+Back to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan
+
+
+The old routine of trapping even among the great rocky mountains grew
+stale, so I decided that I would go back to upper Michigan locate Long
+Knife, and Shopnegon and trap on the Stergeon River. So Clark and I set
+out from North Platte in September and arrived in Gladstone after four
+days traveling. It so occurred that Chief Long Knife was in town and
+that same day we counciled on the winter work and decided to go together
+as Shopnegon was too old. We made a great catch of mink, marten, otter
+and lynx. The kid spent his winter with us enjoying every day and night,
+he skined cooked and made snow shoes, loaded shells and did many other
+odd jobs. We sold our fur in the spring and was about to leave town for
+Oshkosh Wisconsin. When Long Knife came to me and told me a Dr. Harris
+had a son who was lost in the woods. And wanted me to assist in locating
+the boy. I went to the Drs, home and applied for the job--the Dr. was
+worried very badly but said that "i was only a kid and would get lost to
+if I ventured out sight of town" I reassured him that I was away up in
+my teens and had tramped the woods for eleven years and still could keep
+track of myself. So with his consent I took a lunch and got what
+information I could and struck out alone. I followed the river bluffs up
+to where he had been picking wintergreen berries and then I could not
+tell anything about it because so many folks were looking for him. after
+several hours I circled around and got out of reach of all spectators
+then I made a bee line for upstream,--(as that is the way all lost
+hunters and tenderfeet go) after I had traveled about two miles I found
+a raveling on a briar and then I was sure I had a trail. This discovery
+gave me courage and I took up the labor with all the instinct of my
+nature. I followed his trail till pitch dark and camped under a maple
+tree till the gray dawn announced day--then I resumed my search; after
+going about four or five miles I found his hat--which had been discribed
+to me. this proved two things that I had the right trail and that he had
+lost his mind, or was what we call "Woods Mad" That after noon at about
+five oclock I found where he had picked berries and an hour later I came
+upon him sitting on a log, He started to run but I was too quick on foot
+for him I soon caught him and after while I reasoned with him and he
+consented to return home with me. I had to fight all the way back he
+declared I was taking him the wrong direction to reach home. When I came
+to town every body was surprised and delighted. His father gave me fifty
+dollars and the citizens bought me a handsome Colts revolver, they made
+a real party for me that night and Long Knife was invited and Clark sat
+and looked on.
+
+After we spent the summer we went back to Trout Lake after scouting
+around a few days I heard that a very excellent Mink Trapper was in
+town. I soon located him and we chummed up and planned to go to Red Lake
+Minnesota. This trapper was no other than the far famed Joe Whitecup. On
+the last day of October we reached our destination; bought a load of
+chuck hired two Indians to take us to the Lake London. There we built
+one headquarter camp, and three off-sets. The third off-set reaching to
+Indian creek. We found plenty of wolves, bear, lynx, sable mink, otter
+and beaver. Here Whitecup taught me more than I had ever dreamed about
+catching mink. I found out that he used a compound and that he got it by
+mail; but I could not hire him to tell me what it was nor where he got
+it I found out later; but if I had have known it sooner I would have
+saved me from much embarrassment and great losses of money--Be patient
+It cost me much to get it but I am going to tell you before I finish
+this book just how to get it. And how to get it very reasonable. One
+night while I was staying in the Indian creek off-set I was surrounded
+with grey wolves. they came up and even sniffed at the camp door. I shot
+five that night by chance shots, and had a lively shooting match most of
+the time. About mid-winter we broke camp it grew cold and heavy snows
+covered the whole country; so we went down to Duluth and sold our furs.
+
+Here I parted company with Whitecup after getting him roaring full
+hoping he would squeal what bait he used--but he was tight as a tick and
+mum as a toad.
+
+With my adopted son--so I figured; we bought tickets for Deadwood South
+Dakota. Here we met as we had arranged beforehand our two old Partners
+Terrel and Ed Scott. After a few days of rest and plan laying we
+determined to go back to Fort Collins again and trap where we did
+several winters before. We found even more game than when we first had
+trapped this country.
+
+We got nicely settled and things looked favorable for a charming catch
+we were happy and had always been lucky. But I had often been told by
+old Woodsman and Plainsmen and Pioneers that no man ever run long
+without getting into a mixup. One morning I swung into the saddle I
+never felt better I was full grown nearly seventeen and weighed 203.
+pounds. Without an ounce of superflous flesh on my whole frame with the
+possible exception of a pound or two of hair.
+
+I steered my bronco up the hill and started over the trap line. I had
+not gone far when I heard the jingleing of a trap chain; and the growl
+of a bear. I hastily dismounted, drew my rifle and advanced in the
+direction of the noise. Emerging from a clump of brush I stood face to
+face within forty five feet of a good old grizzley which weighed 1,400,
+pounds. He dropped upon his haunches and looked straight at me. I pulled
+my gun drew a careful aim at the only place to shoot a Grizzley between
+the eye and ear; fired, he fell and quivered, I thought him dead as a
+mummy and I set down my gun and went up took the clamps and removed the
+trap and just then old bruin rooled over and quick as a wink hit me a
+spat in the face that knocked me two or three summersaults broke in my
+left cheek and knocked out four teeth and cut my tongue half off. I
+struck the ground like a flying squirrel feet first: and after a moment
+of time to get my bearings I faced the music; the old dog arose and made
+for me like a mad bull. I quickly pulled my old sixshooter and began to
+pump lead into him at the rate of about an ounce a second. Bruin seemed
+to take his pills with comparative ease, when my shells was exhausted he
+was still coming--What remained for me to do--I drew my hunting knife
+and climbed him like a monkey on a cheese. This was foolish and
+dangerous for I got a bite while bruin nearly got a belly full, I cut
+him deeply in the lungs but he nearly with one sweep of his old paw tore
+out my whole inwards. he cut me deep from three inches below the chin
+clean down to the abdomen. He wore his nails uncomfortably long and had
+a great spread to his claws. I then knew something must be doing or I
+would be done for. I made a desperate effort to secure my gun which was
+loaded. bruin seemed to tumble what I was up to and pressed hard,
+however with but one blow in the left side and another on my hip to his
+credit. I caught the big gun it was a 49-90--and struck thirty two
+hundred pounds, I swung it around within three feet of the star in his
+breast pulled the trigger--and the steel capped ball bored a hole
+through the old hog big as an alarm clock. The fight was over, I feel
+with bruin I wakened five days later in a lath and plastered room with
+my son and both partners working over me. I was much surprised when they
+told me I had enjoyed the tussle five days before. I could not talk my
+tongue was fastened up so it might heal, I was all bandages and plaster
+paris I layed here seven weeks, then the boys carried me back to camp
+where I gave orders and gradually recuperated. I never recovered from
+the blow on my hip it will bother me till the end. However there is no
+great loss without some small gain--this lame spot always serves me as a
+borometer.
+
+I also received another benefit I had some silver deposited in my face
+to straight up my sunken cheek. hence am never busted. I have been in
+several bad rows with both four-footed beasts and two footed beasts, but
+this was at least as lively a scrap as I ever got into. and all because
+I was careless. We lifted camp early in March sold our fur and the whole
+of us went down to 'Frisco to see the sights. Here we studied the
+history of China in the faces of the moon-eyed heathens, enjoyed the
+curious haunts of humanity the entire summer.
+
+That fall I hired Old Ed Scott, Bert Terrell, Jack Troy and ferd Gotch.
+Myself and the Kid made up and we calculated quite a decent gang. I
+think we were by far the largest and best gang in the west.
+
+I had four hired men, Eleven head of horses, two wagons, four tents, Six
+riding saddles, four pack saddles, twenty four guns and revolvers, six
+hundred steel traps and cooking utensels enough for a dozen men. My
+expenses were a thousand dollars a month--Our chief game was rat, mink,
+otter, coyotes, and grey wolves, we marched up North Platte to Raw-hide
+creek--and set traps for fur--We moved once a week and averaged to take
+about one hundred and sixty pelts a day.
+
+When we reached the Raw-hide about fifteen miles from North Platte river
+in Lormey Co. I caught a monstrous grey wolf in a trap. I knew the
+virtue of the trap it was a New-House noumber four. I was armed with a
+49-90 winchester but refrained from shooting him because the ball tore
+too big a hole in the hide. I attempted to knock him in the head with my
+hatchet, I saw I had a good high holt on him so I stepped up closer to
+him--when the darn skunk made a leap at my windsucker; the trap chain
+broke and he lit on my left arm and got busy eating meat. My gun was
+johnie on the spot, for several days I carried my arm in a buckskin sack
+meanwhile I concluded I would shoot game not trying other experiences.
+
+After a few days we reached Hat creek, where we were told that a Sheep
+herder had been driven into camp by a silver tipped Grizzley. The
+ranchmen wanted us to camp till we killed the old boss. So I detailed Ed
+Scott and a new man I had recently hired by the name of Charley Whippel
+to go with me--and I left the rest to run trap lines and watch things.
+We rode out toward the Cheyenne river. Just as we reached Cow creek and
+crossed over and was about twenty rods up the slope we heard a bear; we
+stopped and suddenly old silver as free as Bryans Silver issue;
+descending the hill in our direction. We all opened fire at once and
+spoiled his fun to quick to mention. We secured his skin head and all
+including his tailbone and paws the ranchmen sent it to Denver to a
+Texiderment and he sold it to the Chicago Public Musium. We broke camp
+the following day and started for Beaver creek here we made three
+settings, then we broke again and moved to the head of the Belle Fourche
+river. trapping coyote and wolf. from there to powder river, and then on
+to tongue river. We broke camp that spring at Dayton, Wyoming; and for
+novelty hired out to herd cattle for the U.X. Cattle Co. We rode here on
+the general roundup, quit our job and set out for the Big horn basin.
+Crossing the main range of the Big horn mountains we went up Canon Creek
+looking for trapping for another season. We followed down the creek till
+we reached Big horn river; then we swung around and followed up the
+Bighorn to the end.
+
+We had quite a serious time getting our pack horses over the Owl-creek
+mountains. We now turned our course a trifle and struck for the head of
+the big sandy, then followed this stream till we reached Green river
+Then rode across to the Yampah river.
+
+While riding down the Yampah we were accosted by two men who wanted us
+to hire out to help them round up several hundred wild horses. We had
+never before rode on a horse ranch and we wished to be full fledged so
+we consented. We had a lively time. The Kid was lighter and more supple
+than I; and got out of it some easier than I. I had picked out a rangey
+lank bronco; he would quit the earth and climb the sky like a flying
+machine; and drop down and strike the rocks with his legs stiff as a
+post. He would then spin like a top several hundred times play razor
+back and sun-fish, His head and tail would touch one instant between his
+legs; and the next instant over his back. I held my breath while he
+exercised all his tricks then he plunged off while I pounded him with my
+broad brimmed sombrero. The foreman said Erve Bullard could not play
+glue much better than I. We had many daring and pleasing episodes this
+season roping horses busting and branding.
+
+We quit riding early that summer and spent some time traveling. I
+visited the grave of Calamity Jane. Wild Bills Wife; and His grave too.
+Went to the Little bighorn to Custers Tomb. Over to Nothfield Minn.
+where the Youngers were correlled. Down to Scouts Rest Ranch--Or Codys
+Ranch. over to Cheyenne to Old Tom Horns Rope Party. And saw Bob of
+Austrailia put it all over Jim Corbett. I went to Denver to hear Frank
+James talk, and several other things we enjoyed before Christmas.
+
+The following winter We raked up our old gang got together and went up
+to Snake River. here we began tramp trapping. Part of us advanced and
+the other party followed and took up our traps. this tramp trapping
+lasted nearly all winter we trapped the Snake river, Green river San
+Juan river the little Colorado and the Big Colorado up to Grand Canon.
+Then we followed up the river to Cataract creek and in trying to cross
+lost two rattling good pack-horses pack and all. We then were short of
+rations and struck out for the Red mountain country: hoping to get more
+chuck. In this dash we nearly all lost our lives by starvation: after
+many days we reached the town of Aubay Arizonia.
+
+We then loaded our kit and took the Train for Los Angeles California and
+from there we went back to Denver Colorado. then up the Big Platte near
+the Lormic Mountains. We built a headquarters camp at The medicine bow
+and two offsets at Camp creek, near the Medicine Bow Reservation. Here
+we had the best systematized settings we had heretofore set. We had set
+a line of traps in a semicircle from camp to camp; And a stub line up
+each creek about four miles; then we set a high-line running in oposite
+directions. So you see we bagged everything that came through the
+country for several miles wide. Our traps served as does a wing-net
+catching on the sides and swinging everything into the center. An animal
+that smelled a trap would sheer off and nine times out of ten would go
+the way we wanted it, for we set our traps giving that peculiar specie
+the favorable road toward other traps which were set, and the scent so
+completely killed with compounds would usually get the game. We generaly
+cleaned out almost everything as we went allong. Now the highlines were
+for land animals, such as Coyotes, Wolves, Lion, marten and skunk.
+
+The next autumn came and we were in fine spirits. We all came back to
+our old camps on the North Platte. The weather was lovely The cottonwood
+leaves were turning brown and in the height of my glory I roped out my
+favorite horse saddled up and started for the Lormie Mountains. I was
+hungry for deer, and plenty of them roamed in that vacinity. As I was
+riding allong the foot hills my horse suddenly shyed off as if scared;
+i gathered up in the saddle and peeked over some sage brush and behold
+there was Old Ephraim in the form of a monster silver tip. The old
+elephant arose on his feet as big as Goliah and roared out his challenge
+to me. I drew aim hastily and fired a five hundred grain ball through
+his chest. this was just an eye-opener for his class. My horse at the
+crack of the gun leaped and fled down the hill in spite of all my
+protest; you should have seen the horse put distance between us and the
+bear. I finally got the horse stopped I dismounted and hurried back to
+the scene. The bear had followed us quite a ways and was under a
+cottonwood licking his wound He did not see me till I fired so I had a
+good chance to pick my spot and I sent another ball one journey crashing
+through his shoulders; this brought him to the ground helpless; and I
+approached and finished up his hash.
+
+There are four distinct species of Grizzlies. And are more or less
+sprinkled throughout The rocky mountains in Mexico, U.S. and British
+Columbia. The Silver tipp. Bald face, The great Grizzly and the Kodiak
+Grizzly. The silver tipp scarcely ever has more than one cub and lives
+on roots and grass, when he cannot get meat. The great Grizzley loves
+colts and sheep, they cannot get a deer for the reason that they smell
+so fowl that a deer can smell them too far. The bald face is much like a
+great Grizzley only smaller and more alert. The Kodiak Grizzly, lives
+further north than any of the rest and is at least as big and twice as
+agressive as the other kind. They inhabit the wilderness from B.C. To
+Gnome Alaska. All of these bear are bold and genuine bluffers. they
+never snoop. they depend upon their size and name to carry them through.
+seldom do hunters kill them untill they have emptied tha last load.
+
+I then went back to my horse--or; to where I left him; but he had given
+me the French leave--I had tied him;--as Cow-punchers say--"To the
+ground." And he had taken advantage of his liberty, and ran into camp
+ten miles away. I had on high heel boots; and they walk
+bad--considerable worse than they look,--so the road was a long one.
+
+After while we broke camp and went up the medicine bow river; to the
+North Platte; and here set our traps. Now we have what we call the
+low-lines--and the high-lines. The lowlines we set on low wet soil for
+water animals. To give you an idea how much work is implied in setting
+such a mass of traps as we carried I will describe a bout how far apart
+we had learned to set traps. Where rat are thick one hundred might be
+set in a single mile. Where mink are thick not over sixteen should be
+set per mile. Where coon are thick about twenty per mile. Where beaver
+are thick about forty per mile and where otter are thick about ten traps
+per mile. The Muskrat--is the most interesting of all animals that live
+in water. The beaver Black, Blue, Brown, White, Gray not excepted.
+
+The Rat lives on flags and water mussels. He never kills small ducks as
+has been stated by some folks who never saw one. The Rat builds his
+house out of rushes from five to six feet broad sometimes much broader,
+and about three feet high. About a dozen rats live in a house. Their bed
+is from two six inches from the surface. They have feeding rooms in the
+house, and feed on the walls of the rooms, eventually eating the house
+up which is often the case in cold climates. They also have a bank hole
+in addition to the house hole. When frightened they go to the bank hole.
+They also have air holes covered very cunningly two or three inches deep
+on the way to the bank and water. These air-holes are overlaid loosely
+with flags and other light materials.
+
+In this we began to be very successful trappers. Lewis and Clarke were
+successful because first we spared no labor nor hardships; to set traps
+or find a favorable location; secondly because we bought the best guns
+and traps in the U.S. Thirdly because we put our money and time all back
+in the business; and fourthly because we had had the best kind of
+training in all kinds of common furs. I had been well educated for my
+profession. My teachers were such men as Frank Johnson who was the best
+bear trapper in the country. Charley Mackintosh the noted beaver trapper
+of the States. William S. Walker who no doubt was the best trapper in
+any country. he specialized on Bear, Lynx, Marten and Mountain Lion.
+Henry Grey was a specialist on Marten he taught me the art of taking
+that shy game. And this Same Henry Grey was great a mixer of Compounds;
+Joe Whitecup schooled me in Mink except his bait. Shopnegon taught me
+the crafts of Camping and sleeping without catching cold, how to travel
+without a compass by the stars; and when it was dark and cloudy how to
+keep from circling around. he taught me how to skin all kinds of game,
+and how to make sinew for thred, and awls to sew with and explained
+roots for indigestion; and leaves for constipation. Long Knife taught me
+how to trap skunks, and weasels, and above all he put me next to rat so
+I never need ask any other man the nature of that animal. Chief Broken
+Bow taught me to walk, shoot, and run, how to exercise and how to get
+allong with Indians. How to know when I was in danger, and above all how
+to keep cool which is the greatest lesson any man or indian ever
+learned, either in the woods, on the plains, over the sea; or in the
+busy cities. This lesson has saved my life scores of times. I have often
+wished that Chief Broken-Bow could have had some successor to continue
+this teaching, for all the world suffers and even those who have been to
+school and college come forth polished as a lizzard--but the first wave
+of unexpected excitement, or adverse passion completely distroys them.
+
+I have used the word compound; And I know of no better place to explain
+myself than in this chapter. Compounds are scents of various kinds. Or
+more commonly known as Baits. It is used to kill the scent of your
+traps, and to offset human scent. Baits are more profitably used to
+draw animals to traps than they are to kill the scent of the traps. Good
+Baits always serve the double purpose. While the trap without bait,
+arouses the animal's suspicion and makes it cautious, The trap with the
+bait arouses the animal's passion and draws it to the trap. Certain
+odors causes the male to think that a female has frequented the place,
+and he gets careless and is caught. This is also true with females, and
+is true with all species.
+
+Animals like human beings like to appear well. They will instinctively
+follow certain trails, go certain places at certain times; and the
+trapper who learns what is appealing to an animal is sure of success.
+The old trappers had to manufacture their own compounds.
+
+They got their meager supply from the wombs, testicles and musk-bags of
+animals. but they experienced great difficulty in mixing it to bait the
+several kinds of animals. For a trapper today to try to extract his bait
+from the animal would be sheer folly. only the unsuccessful ever resort
+to such a process. Let every man who catches fur bearing animals for a
+living learn among the earliest lessons, that he must resort to some
+kind of bait; else he will fare slim. I have never known one identical
+specialist in any phase of trapping who did not use baits, and the
+fellow who comes to this imperative, soonest is safe.
+
+I have many friends who deal in baits. And I know that they would like
+to have me favor them by speaking about, and recommending their
+commodity; but I am exhibiting for the education of the public, and not
+for the benefit of dealers; hence I shall refrain from recommending
+anything that has the least degree of sham about it. I am writing this
+book to sell, and that on merits and information, so I feel it my duty
+to fill it with facts, and useful information, So regardless of personal
+friendships, without fear or favor I shall give the public the benefit.
+
+I have used many kinds of baits, and on many occasions, but after years
+of testing, and a dozen of different mixtures, I can recommend but one
+Animal Bait--and that is Manufactured by Funsten Bros, and Co, In their
+large Fur House at St. Louis Mo. It is also sold exclusively by them.
+Not as a money maker but to aid their many trappers to succeed; because
+their success depends upon the trapper.
+
+This compound is the best mixed because Funsten Bros & Co, secured every
+recipe from old and experienced trappers, paying a large price for each
+kind. so it was not manufactured by them as they are not trappers but
+dealers, To go well prepared is to be supplied with excellent baits, and
+if you have Funsten Animal Baits you have the best.
+
+I have charged you to go well supplied, I should also add that in order
+to do this Traps should also be considered.--I have suffered severe
+losses because I secured poor traps, Buy the New House Victor or Jump
+Traps, advertised in Funsten Bros. & Co Catalogue No. 10 or 11. As these
+men have the exclusive sale of them, it is enough to warrant their
+quality. Funsten Bros. & Co at St. Louis Mo. Have the largest Fur House
+in the world, and in order to be the largest they had to prove to be the
+best. In all my dealing with them I have been courteously treated,
+honestly classified, and promptly paid.
+
+It is with pleasure I recommend this house which is an honor to Furriers
+in America.
+
+Well to return to my narrative,--this was the most excitable and
+profitable winter we had ever known, we sold our furs after we broke
+camp and took a very extensive vacation.
+
+
+
+
+The Roving Trapper
+
+
+I came to a turning point in my career--I was to Travel and specialize:
+as a roving trapper. Only experts can catch a special kind of fur and
+make it profitable.
+
+I discharged all my old time laborers; and With The Coyote Kidd set out
+after Mink--There are three or four distinct species of mink but the
+Dark are by far the most valuable, these inhabit the colder regions,
+they are worth between six dolars and fifteen per skin, according to the
+shade and size. The mink is a keen observer, he lives on meat and eggs,
+being somewhat like a weasel, also loving blood. The mink is used for
+collarettes, boas, and ladies coats. A boa made from black water mink is
+worth about 50 dollars, a collarette about $100,00 and a coat reaching
+down to the hips would cost about $250,00. We took our way to the old
+rendavous near the sweet water mountains. While hunting one day I shot a
+Black tail deer. I was skining him for meat and was very hungry, I heard
+a limb crack, turned around; and behold a large grizzly was coming after
+my meat; or myself. I thought best to push the deer forward to him, so I
+made a rather hasty retreat: and old bruin stopped when he struck the
+deer. My gun was uncomfortablly near the dead dear, and the live bear,
+so I had to go home disarmed.
+
+This was a great grizzly, and he was great. I supposed he would tip the
+scales at about 1,200 lbs. although some have been caught that weighed
+2,250, lbs. these great bears live in the rocky mountains from Wyoming
+to Mexico. Their favorite meat is colts, deer and sheep. Their nails
+are often found seven inches long, their fur is best in Feb. and March.
+valued at about 35, dollars apice. their pelts are used for rugs, robes
+and overcoats.
+
+We trapped from the Sweetwater to the Atlantic peaks, then westward
+across Horse creek, to the Colorado desert. then up to Salmon river. We
+followed salmon river through the seven devil mountains and left our
+horses at the XL, ranch and started for the Indian war.
+
+Now we were told by a trapper that there was a bad war on in Montana So
+we intended to go--for we loved an excuse to hunt the cunning
+game--Indians. But when we reached Mont. the war was in British
+Columbia. So we sailed up into the cold region and settled at Silver
+Creek Canada. We began about October the first setting our traps on
+spruce river. The Tahoo and Blackfeet indians inhabit these parts, they
+are a very jealous class of indians. owing to the great number of
+half-breeds. the half breed indian is the smartest, most troublesome of
+all indians. they ordered us off their grounds but I had been ordered
+off hunting and trapping grounds so many times by indians that I payed
+no more attention to their threats than I did to mosquito bites. So they
+got mad, bristled up, surrounded our camps one night,--well we got
+away--that is more than some of them did. Moving down the river and
+overland about one hundred and seventy miles we camped on the Blackwater
+river about fifty miles from the telegraph range. here I had my first
+experiences with Work Dogs. we ran out of grub about the tenth of March,
+and lived the rest of the winter on Big-horn and Moose. We next moved to
+Mt. Norris Idaho and after trapping there a few weeks we sold out and
+began to prepare for our long contemplated trip to the Amazon river
+South America. We sailed from Frisco in July For Brazil Via Cape horn.
+We landed seventeen days later in the good port Para, and from there
+reshipped for Obidos and from there fitted out for a new experience. It
+would be foolish to try to explain the real customs and traits of
+animals after only having forty days experience for that covers our
+trapping and hunting in South America. I did learn considerable about
+that much discussed animal Monkey. I was taught by a native how to trap
+him, the simple remedy I'll give my reader without any extra cost,
+although I gave a mexican hat for that recipe. To catch a monky take a
+ripe cocoa-nut dig out the three eyes and the meat Fill up the unbroken
+shell with almost any kind of edibles; then tie a cord through the two
+holes and tie the nut fast to a tree or a stake. The monk sees the nut
+puts his hand in the tight hole gets a handful of food shuts up his hand
+this forms a lump so big that it cannot be drawn back, the monk could at
+any time get away by simply letting go the food, but he never will, and
+hence is easily taken prisoner--how like man is the monky.
+
+I cut my stay short one day when I came nearly having to shoot the pass
+of a mammoth Boa constrictor--I concluded I was a fair trapper a common
+hunter, but no snake charmer--I enjoyed the fruits and foliage of that
+summer land, but was glad to get back to Galveston, Texas.
+
+
+
+
+Back Among the Rockies
+
+
+After we arrived from South America we planned on trapping one winter
+for Bob-cat Civit Cat and Mountain Lion. Providing no catastrophes
+happened bigger than a cat. We trapped the Arkansa, Big Sandy, Bayou
+creek and on to poverty flats. Then we crossed over to the Black Hills
+landing at Buffalo Gap.
+
+Here a Ranchman hired us to kill Black bear which were killing his
+colts. The Black bear of North America is the most harmless of all
+bears. His average weight is about four hundred pounds. He lives on
+honey, grass, berries, weeds, roots, ants, and insects of all kinds. He
+is the hardest specie to hunt. When a hunter is on his trail he
+invariably is next to it, and will climb upon all the high roots, and
+logs and peep back on his track to discern the hunter. It is hard to get
+a shot at him unless the wind is blowing so you may circle him and shoot
+from the windward side. He will stuff a bullet hole with moss to prevent
+the flow of blood and many other cute sagacious tricks. He dens up about
+the 15teenth of Dec. and comes out about the middle of March, as is
+usually supposed he comes out poor. But this is a bit of
+missinformation. On the other hand he usually crawls out after his long
+snooze fat as mud.
+
+Well as usual we had a lot of work, accompanied with our usual success.
+we were well paid for our hunt, and moved up to the Musselshell river In
+Montana.
+
+In Montana we caught fine beaver, The beaver is a very instinctive
+animal. There are several varieties, The Dam Builder, The Bank Beaver,
+The Bachelor Beaver and the Drone Beaver. The beaver ranges in color
+from white to black. I never saw a white one, and but one black one
+except when I looked in the glass. The Beaver weighs from twenty to
+thirty pounds in the United States, and from forty to fifty in Alaska.
+His food is bark, young grass and such foods, They cut timber down and
+know where it will fall. I ascertained this because I have known them to
+leave trees alone which leaned the wrong direction for them to use. I
+saw on the North Platte trees cut down by beaver which were four feet in
+diameter. They make chips resembling a chopper with a dull ax. He cuts
+his timber for winter and anchors it down four feet under water with mud
+useing his tail as a scow and also for a spade.
+
+Beaver dams are great hindrances to the man with a conoe, Beaver meadows
+are splendid feeding grounds for deer and other animals. I have seen
+beaver meadows--that is a place where the trees were all cut down and
+used--covering hundreds of acres.
+
+After breaking Camp we went to Cordelane Idaho, and from here to Frisco
+then over to Austrailia, We sailed out from the Golden gate on the 5th
+day of June and on the 20th day we reached Bellmont Aus. From here we
+went by rail up the Darling river. We spent about fourteen or fifteen
+days prospecting for a catch but found nothing inticing but hot winds
+and hot sunshine, so we cut our visit short and returned to 'Frisco the
+latter part of July--
+
+We next went to Idaho and raked up our old gang with new accessories and
+began trapping on the Clearwater and camped just below the Continental
+Divide. We trapped to the St. Joe Divide and as far south as Bald
+Mountains. The snow fall in this part is very heavy, we were making a
+Deadfall one day when Billy Thorn made a miss cue with his heavy sharp
+ax and severed his shin bone and nearly looped off his leg. The ax
+struck about four inches below the knee, and nearly cut his leg
+completely off. We were thirteen miles from headquarters camp. We made a
+litter and carried him all the way. He nearly bled to death on the way.
+There was no Dr. with in sixty miles. I thought it was up to me their
+old Chief to perform an operation. I washed the wound out as clean as
+posible, cutting away all shreads of flesh with my beaver knife, I hewed
+out some sweet birch splinters and tied the limb tight with moose wood
+bark from his ankle to his thigh. In three months he was able to walk
+and after six months he was trapping as usual. While Thorn was layed up
+I had a double dose of work to do and grew a little careless, so mush so
+that something happened which never happened before--I was cleaning my
+gun and rooled it over on my knee. I had forgotten to remove the loads
+and off she went tearing a big hole in our camp. I had had a great deal
+of trouble in my life teaching my men to always be careful about
+accidents. This same thing had happened severl times to the other
+fellows but never to me before. Most all old trappers and hunters get
+into trouble of their own, sooner or later because of carelessness. I
+never cover up a trap with my hand. I found a trapper starved to death,
+caught in his own bear trap by both hands; because he was in the habit
+of covering up his traps by hand. I always school the lads to cover
+every trap with a stick. It is better because the animal can smell hand
+marks readily.
+
+After the accident of my gun explosion in camp I went out to look at A
+trap I had set for a wolverine. I came to the spot and found the chain
+broken and the trap gone, I began brushing away the snow supposing he
+had dodged into a hole near by, the trap was set at the root of a tree
+Suddenly I heard a growl and down from the limb leaped the darn skunk
+upon my left shoulder while the trap struck me fair in the face, I did
+some tall scrambling shook him off and empied my revolver in his skin.
+My shoulder was very sore for three months so we had two cripples at
+once. The next streak of ill luck, another of the gang got lazy and
+would not wash well in cold water and contracted cold and then
+Pneumonia--this layed him off for nearly three weeks. Our catch this
+winter was Wolverine, Lynx, Marten, Ermine, a few Beaver and Otter. but
+my Marten were of all more valuable.
+
+I was engaged the next summer in Colorado by a ranchman to trap Mountain
+Lion. The Mountain Lion is a specie of the Eastern Panther they weigh
+from 80 to 150 lbs. Their color in winter is a steel grey and in summer
+is a greyish brown. Their food is rabbit and grouse. Their haunts are
+the Rocky mountains. Their hides are used for rugs and robes and worth
+from 5-to 15 dollars. They also feed on calves and colts. are very hard
+on a Horse Ranch-Man. They often attack men, I have known three men to
+have been killed by Mountain Lions. The Mountain Lion is very shy he can
+be poisoned the best of any way of taking his life. to trap a Lion you
+must set all bait traps and deadfalls horse back and be sure your horse
+has no shoes nor horse nails in their hoofs, if they have the Lion will
+steer clear of the trap they are very clever in every way. One time I
+was delayed from Camp it grew dark and I had an awful time to pick my
+way home I soon discovered that I had more than the dark and difficult
+roads to battle, For I was being followed by a Lioness five whelps and
+an old Dog Lion. I was on my Favorite Horse Old Gotch. He feared Lions
+equally as great as I hated Squaws, They followed me for about three
+miles and when I reached an open space in the woods I halted near an old
+fir stub, I dismounted cautiously I could hear the old Dog growl and the
+whelps squeal like a flock of young pups. I found some dry leaves and
+struck a fire breaking off the limbs of the old stub for fuel, After an
+hour these limbs were all burned up and I had to go about thirty feet to
+another stub for wood. I had to be pretty foxy for both lioness and Dog
+kept uncomfortably close to me all the time I carried my six shooter in
+one hand, and wood on the other arm; just as I was returning with a load
+of wood the moon broke through a cloud and the old Dog was standing
+about forty five feet away in a bunch of weeds. I pulled my gun and took
+a chance shot and as luck would have it I broke his for shoulders and he
+could leap around but not direct his course. I never heard such a
+tearing racket; he would leap ten feet high and fall on his head when he
+struck ground, by this I knew I had fixed his front limbs. At this the
+Lioness and whelps retreated and after an hour I mounted Gotch and rode
+up near the tired and crippled Dog and sent a ball through his heart. I
+returned to the fire and had a little sleep before day-break. I skined
+the old fellow next morning he was a monster old, rugged, brawny &
+covered with (23) wounds. he had also been shot three times before.
+
+After we broke camp we went to Mexico and rode a Horse Ranch. following
+this for several months we worked our way northward taking carefull
+notation of the changes in Saddles, Horses and riders. I have ridden
+many wild horses and used many kinds of saddles but the king of all
+saddles is the Meany. We could tie on to a steer that wieghed a ton and
+not be afriad of tearing this saddle to pieces.
+
+We loved wild horse riding but we got so beastly full of lice that we
+quit. We have caught lice several times from the tourists, and
+tenderfeet but could always get rid of them other places by the cowboy
+method--At night take off your shirt turn it inside out spread it over
+an ant-hill, and in the morning the ants have all you company preserved
+for the coming winter.
+
+The cowboys are a clean lot of brave loyal lads. They carry guns--but
+not as is supposed to use on one-another--but to shoot wild horses which
+they are riding--suppose your foot gets fastened in a stirrup and your
+are thrown, you will not go far till you are dragged to death. this is
+where the Gun does its intended work.
+
+I have had to take my hat and strike the top of the water to drive the
+bugs down so I could drink without swallowing bugs, I used to cook and
+thought nothing of taking my water from a slough where several carcasses
+of cows wrere putrying. Sometimes I ran short of Soda then I would use
+the ashes of Buffalo chips for Soda. All this is as harmless to health;
+as eating asparagrass grown in a manure pile.
+
+Well life grew monotnous, each succeeding year brought but old time
+haunts and the accostomed experiences. So as we sat at midnight in
+Portland Oregon in a grand ball room indulging in our only bad
+habit--smoking, simultaneously The Coyote Kidd and Myself proposed--to
+the gang let us go up to Alaska" To this we all shook hands.
+
+
+
+
+Off for New Fields of Adventure--Going to Faraway Alaska
+
+
+We went direct to the Little horn river Montanna and sold our Horses to
+the Crow Agency. Went to Deadwood S. Dak. picked up our Old Dog "Chum."
+and some other property went back to Billings Montana settled up our
+Business and went to Seattle Wash.
+
+In Seattle we fitted out for a three year expedition.
+
+And on the 20th day of April at 2 P.M. we shipped out of the Harbor on
+the Old James Dollar--She was agood old ship built in South America made
+of meteec--.; but had her back broken while being launched Was patched
+up and yet hardly fit for rough seas.
+
+Our first four days were very pleasant till we struck Millbank sound
+There we were hit with a heavy sea on our starboard-beam. The old ship
+would leap almost out of the ocean and then fall back like a wounded
+duck. she would flounder, pitch, rool and dive come to the surface and
+wipe off the brine slick as a mole. I felt a little disturbed in the
+locality of my abdomen, also my appetite failed me for a few days; I was
+standing one morning on deck by the hand rail just leaning over for
+convenience--near by stood an Irishman spewing in the sea, a sailor came
+allong and said to the Irishman" You seem to have a weak stomache." "I
+don't know" Said the Irishman" I think I can throw it as far as the next
+one" Over that same rail engaged at the same pass-time was a young lady,
+leaning on the arm of her old Dad Between times she repeated"
+
+  I'me a fathers only daughter,
+  Casting bread upon the water,
+  In a way I hadent oter,
+    I guess yes.
+  Casting it like rain,
+  Into the troubled main,
+  Hoping this sour bread
+  will not return again"
+
+We landed in Skagway on the fifth day of May. Now there were no docks in
+Skagway at that time; so we were unloaded by lighters and run up where
+the water was about three feet deep, there we had to get on a man's back
+and be carried ashore. We were charged two dollars for the lighters and
+two dollars for the man craft, so it cost each of us four dollars to
+land after we had landed.
+
+We arose early the following morning in another world. We knew the wild
+parts of the States and the beasts and the men, the lay of the cities,
+the course of thousands of the important rivers The climate, snow fall,
+cyclones and all other important things to know when your life is an
+outdoor life; but here we were in a new untried world. One of my
+failures is when I see a mountain to wish to know how the land lays on
+the other side, naturally given to adventure I had indulged, and it grew
+very rapidly upon me, till it got beyond my controll, so I was delighted
+to discover new fields.
+
+After proper preparations we set out for White horse. After a few days
+we arrived at the Chilkoot Pass. The Chilkoot Pass, is a high pass about
+a mile high and steep as a house roof. And is also subject to very heavy
+snowslides. It was here where a short time before 148 soldiers in the
+British Army were all burried forever without any Sky-Pilot or
+Undertaker's assistance. We crossed through Jacobs Ladder where were
+six-hundred steps cut into the solid ice. There were several Men known
+as packers who lived at the foot of the ladder, they packed over loads
+for 45cts per lb. they wore spurs on the bottom of their moccasins; we
+were not tenderfeet, but used to the heaviest kinds of packing and you
+should have seen those sharks look with disdain on us when we made the
+pass carrying twice as many pounds up as they could. On this Trip I had
+The Coyote Kidd, The Galloping Swede, Taxas Tom. and Old Ed Scott. Four
+just as good men as I had had the pleasure of meeting during twelve
+years of rough life. And I was pretty sound then--my eyes were keen, my
+hearing alert my aim acurate, not like I am at this writing.
+
+On the top of this Pass I had my last opportunity of buying a piece of
+mince pie which I never neglect--but this piece cost me a Pan or one
+dollar. The other fellows took lemonade paying the same price per glass.
+I had hunted all kinds of game, common or uncommon in the Western
+Hemisphere. had led the most daring and dangerous kind of a life, but
+little did I realize the tiresome dedious and indiscribable journey that
+now lay before me.
+
+As we crossed Chilkoot pass and descended through the long indentations
+leading northward and eastward amid snow ice and severe weather Old
+Texas Tom. The terror of the West, the old steel man as he was often
+called grew tired for the first time since our acquaintance. Together we
+rode the great roundup, together we had braved danger hard-ships scores
+of times, at every other event he was cool faithful and ever on the
+spot; but now he sickened from fatigue to a terrorable back ache and
+head ache. That night he seemed to recover a little and the next morning
+shouldered his load and with less of his old time vigor and lightness
+began the day's journey. But about an hour later he had a relpase and we
+divided his load among us and he was able to travel till noon. then we
+camped as he grew worse and wrapped him in our blankest made him a good
+thick bed out of boughs, and fixed him up just as comfortable as
+possible. Four days later in the afternoon he called me up to his bed
+and began to talk about sunny Texas about his dear old mother his sweet
+young sister and his boyhood days. I tried to encourage him I told him
+he would soon get well and that he had only a bad cold--but he smiled
+and said he was not long for this world. He said this feeling was
+strange and unearthly and he felt the approach of death. Then he rested
+an hour and then called me up to him and said" Old Chief give me a pull
+at your pipe--I did he lay back on my knee where he seemed to rest the
+easiest gasped twice and died.
+
+This was a hard blow on me and the other boys. The snow was deep and the
+ground frozen down a great depth, so we were forced to bury Our dear old
+Tom in the beautiful white purified crystal snow A purer and lovlier
+grave man never filled. we marked the place and summoned our courage and
+left the Old Texan who was reared amid the flecy cotton, sleeping his
+last long sleep amid the white flakes in far away Alaska.
+
+We were unfamiliar with this kind of sickness but after we were
+experienced we knew our pard was afflicted with Spinal Fever. This is
+caused by the rubbing of a heavy load on the back, it causes
+perspiration then followed with fatigue the patient in weariness is
+constrained by this fatighue to lie down upon the ground, and a severe
+cold is contracted resulting in death. No traveler in that cold barren
+region should ever under any circumstances lie down upon the naked
+earth. Tom and we were all used to lying on the earth and thought
+nothing of. ignorance and eagerness caused his death, as it has the
+untimely death of many a mother's boy.
+
+We took up our march sorrowfully and silently till we rached the
+Horalinqua River. Here he halted and searched for Gold. May I add that
+the craze for gold lead us into this region of ice and snow. We were
+unsuccessful but in our rambles we came to Pelley River and found Marten
+very thick, so we concluded to trap there the next winter. We left our
+outfit here and began the journey down to Dawson, we had to shoot the
+far famed Whitehorse rapids. there are seven of them and they are about
+3 miles long, and run like lightling, we boarded a raft were cut loose
+by a half breed Mucklock and away we went almost a mile a minute riding
+on the crest of the rapid rooling river. Here after the passing of the
+rapids we first met Swift water bill. so named by the Sourdoughs because
+he would never shoot the rapids. His was a queer experience. he dug out
+his fortune amid the bars of the river and then went back to Seattle and
+married a daughter having three homely sisters, and his wife was twice
+as holely as them all. each year following for four years he returned to
+Seattle and married a sister every time. and at last having wed the last
+girl, he broke all rules of life and married his Motherinlaw.
+
+In this locality we made quite a stay mining and prospecting for hunting
+and trapping till the following spring. which hardly shows his face when
+autumn drives him off.
+
+It was necessary for us to larn a few lessons so here we began to study.
+first we were taught how to bridle a boat. this is done by tieing a rope
+around the nose of the boat about one third the way aft. then we learned
+how to make what they call portages--that is--when you come to falls or
+rapids, relieve the boat of all contents and carry contents and boat
+around the rapids. Then we were taught how to know quicksand and how
+dangerous the Overflow is to dogs, and men in extrems winter. an
+overflow is where the water bursts through the ice in the rivers and for
+a few feet runs on the top. it cannot run far for it soon freezes. If
+you put your foot in water or if your dogs step in water your feet and
+their feet would freeze in two minutes.
+
+The next winter we built a line of camps up the Pelley river about sixty
+miles, and another line up the McMillian. October 10th we began to set
+traps for Marten, ermine and wolf. Here we learned that Marten were
+called Sable they are much larger and more valuable than the Marten of
+United States Of America. In color they are dark brown and some are
+almost black, they feed upon grouse and mice and never go near the
+water, they inhabit the cold regions and breed but once a year. They
+resemble the house cat in features but have long body like a mink. We
+took that winter seven hundred, the largest catch ever known to have
+been taken by any one gang in the world. The weather was exceedingly
+cold for we were only three hundred miles from the Arctic Circle. Spring
+came we broke camp and moved down to Dawson, sold our fur and drifted
+down the Yukon river to the mouth of forty mile creek. Here we turned up
+in search of placer mining, the short summer soon past and we returned
+to Dawson and fitted out for the winter.
+
+After we chucked up we turned up toward Steward river, on this trip we
+met and formed the acquaintance of Geo. MacDonald, a wide world
+character. At one time he came to Dawson with twenty mules packed with
+gold. Three years later he died in Circle city a pauper.
+
+Here also we first met the noted Montana Kidd--he swung his team of a
+dozen dogs around the corner of the road house and shouted to the
+landlord" Thirteen steaks dam the cost the Kidd always has the price" It
+cost him thirteen times ten dollars--or one hundred and thirty dollars;
+ten for himself and one hundred and twenty for his dogs.
+
+After another successful winter we returned to Dawson sold our furs and
+went first to Eagle and chucked up and journeyed to Fort Yukon. Now Fort
+Yukon stands in the Arctic Circle and the Steel registers during cold
+weather 65 deg. below zero. From here we went up the Porcupine river to
+Rampart Ho on the Eastern boundery of Alaska We did not like the country
+in this part so we returned to Fort Yukon; and turned down the Yukon
+river to the Tanana river then we up this last named stream to
+Fairbanks.
+
+We reached Fairbanks in the early fall and trapped that winter on Beaver
+creek. having many experiencs but none which I shall record
+here.--After we broke Camp we sold our fur in Fairbanks and started for
+the head of Copper river. We followed this stream down till we struck
+Ambercunbo canyon. Not being acquainted with the river we were into the
+rapids before we knew it: I shouted to the boys to pull while I leaped
+for the steering oar, we got through all right but the boat was half
+full of water--and all the boys pretty badly scared, it was a close
+shave one adventure I do not care to repeat. We floated down to Katello;
+and here took a boat for Cook's inlet. We reached Shushitna station And
+started up Shushitna river till we came to the mouth of the Talketaa:
+here in search of trapping we failed to find the object of our
+search--but found something far better a splendid Quartz mine, which
+averages $93.00 gold per ton of quartz. From here we went to Seldovia
+and then to Dutch Harbor and on to St. Michels.
+
+It might be well to say briefly that I had considerable exprience during
+my time with mining, and was no green horn, The Kidd was a natural
+miner, he would stick his pick, spade or knife into every bit of mother
+earth to ascertain if there was any color, we not only knew fur, beasts
+and birds, reptiles, fish, insects, but we knew the earth over which we
+walked, on which we slept and so contineud for sixteen years. We were
+full fledged Sour Doughs. We were citizens and Claim holders.
+
+I should also mention that I have but briefly outlined our travel, we
+had traveled much more than one would naturly suppose from reading these
+few pages, I ought to say too that We had become expert Dog-teamsters.
+And I need not say that not a man in Alaska nor an Indian could beat us
+on snow shoes.
+
+We incidently fell in with a half breed who was looking for a husband
+for a half sister I made him believe I was looking for a Wife So he feel
+in toe. I according to his pleasure met his sister she was a cross
+between an Eskomo and a Mucklock, she was a charming biddy her eyes
+were sore, she was terrorably deformed having a large bone resembling a
+horn growing out of her right shoulder, she was about twenty four years
+old. and indians at that age are as old as white women are at fifty. if
+there is any beauty in Creoles, or Indians believe me it fades before
+they are thirty, and leaves you a homely hag.
+
+Well Her brother told me he had heard about me and If I would consent to
+wed his sister he would tell me the road to a fortune. I saw he was
+smart and disclosed considerable truth and displayed considerable
+inteligence of the interior. He said he would go to that place but owing
+to physical inability he could not. What could a trapper from the
+flowery fields of the rockies, and broad basins of the Platte now of the
+Snow hidden mountains ice bound rivers of Alaska do but inmediately
+without consulting any parents--become engaged.
+
+We sat down I dismissed the boys and he related to me the following "For
+a thousand years my people have been kings in these parts. A Few indians
+have been through the interior of Alsaka from Mt Mckinley to Point
+Barrow. But no white man ever was. It is well nigh impossible but a
+giant like you and like your men could go if you prepare properly And
+have the money to chuck up for two years. Now the fortune lies in what
+you could tell and what you would know and see rather than in what you
+could bring back. But should you gain Point Barrow remember there is
+plenty of gold.--but it can only be mined during the summer while the
+frost is wore out of the ground by the sea. Now half way through this
+wilderness of ice, snow, and bursting glasciers is a cave not in a
+valley but on a mountain above timberline. This mountain lies about ten
+miles westward of you main course as you go down Dead mans gulch. you
+will know this gulch by its first horrorable appearance. it makes even
+an indian shudder to look at it. After you emerge from the gulch take
+the first indentation leading westward and by all means go to black
+mountain and find the cave. Now why I wish you to find the cave is I
+wish you to live. the Wether is extremely cold, you and your men will
+need a relief from this extreme incessant atmosphere. this cave is of
+black rock and is as warm underfoot as any soap stone you ever touched.
+and when once in the cave you feel warm as in an oven. Here you may
+recuperate patch up your clothes and make your journey safely." I
+thought this was hash so parting said I would return and tell him how I
+prospered. While time and weather would permit we went to Gnome and
+picked up Black Dave. And purchased severel good Huskeys. sailed back to
+St. Michals stocked up and set out on our trapping and hunting trip. But
+finding we had miss judged the lay of the land on the western slope of
+Alaska we again sailed back to Gnome and then crossed overland to Candle
+creek. We experienced some very hard travels in crossing the Seward
+Peninsula when we struck the south west side of the Kalzetpue Sound,
+from there we went west to Salawak river, then to the lake of that same
+name here we pitched camp and set our traps. Our game was Polar bear,
+Arctic Fox, Reindeer and Sable.
+
+Now I was used to all kind of bear except--the Polar which I am free and
+frank to confess is the worst man eater on earth, not one beast of any
+country excepted. The Polar averages to weigh about seven hundred pounds
+his build is different from any other bear, he is long and lanky having
+giant legs, his color is pure white. Except at times he is yellow around
+the neck, and shoulders. His food is Walrus and whale which have been
+killed and cast upon the ice by tremendous storms. They breed but once a
+year and seldom have more than one cub. he lives exclusively in the
+Arctic regions. His fur is used for rugs and robes and is worth about
+$150.00 per pelt. But it is so hard get these skins to civilization that
+they are rare, often other bear is colored and sold for real Polar.
+Between the Polar Bear and Siberian Wolves we had to watch our dogs all
+night to keep them from being killed, as well as ourselves.
+
+This country was poepled with Eskomos a sort of a cross between them
+and Mucklock indians. they were very friendly to us. I could address
+them in their own language which pleased them and we prospered fine. On
+the first day of Feb. we started back to Gnome.
+
+And for the first time suffered total darkness by day and by night. We
+had enjoyed the midnight sun, and now must suffer the mid-day dark. The
+thermoneter lay about seventy below zero and the wind blew a gauger, On
+this trip back to Gnome I first learned what it was to neglect for hours
+to wait upon Nature, owing to the suffering of even exposing you bare
+hand for ten seconds. On this trip our old Chum, the playmate of Texas
+darling of Wyoming and the tramp of Deadwood So. Dak. got so cold he
+whined and refused to go. We took him and put him in our sleeping bag. I
+had taken him because he was fat and I kept him as a reserve food,
+rather than for actual work. We had a great jag on our sleighs we had to
+draw fish to feed our dogs, fish for fuel and lights, and with our
+traps, guns sleeping bags and truck we had great loads.
+
+We reached Gnome without any serious accidents or over severe suffering
+sold our furs and felt fine over our grand success.
+
+
+
+
+Into the Unknown
+
+
+The following summer I fell in with a Miner by the Name of Jack Freeman.
+he was well known as a penetrator, He told us that up at point Barrow
+was all kind of shot gold. this aroused our curiosity again and I
+thought of my Squaw down at St Michals. Which I felt if I went to Point
+Barrow I would be obliged to wed. So we evaded the northern fever and
+planned to trap again somewhere near Candle Creek.
+
+We left Gnome in early autumn and went straight to our old camps. after
+our usual luck we started in a circuitous route for Gnome. We came to
+the Buckland River and started up intending to strike the mouth of the
+Koyukuk but missed our mark striking forty miles above the mouth we had
+hard times crossing the snow-capped mountains and climbing over Glaciers
+breaking trails for our dogs, fixing broken sleighs and mending worn out
+harnesses. tieing up stranded Snow-shoes and facing death in many forms.
+Here for the first time in my life I realized I was indeed a very
+reckless man. Often the boys would get cold and sleepy and I would have
+to make them march at the point of old glory--my Gun--they would swear
+and blame every bit of hard luck to me. I held my nerve and had good
+controll over my men and after a waery march reached the Mouth of the
+Koyukuk and sold our furs at Rampart, Here Black Dave quit us saying he
+was going back to Arizonia. Three months later we took a boat and
+floated down to the mouth of the Yukon followed on to the Lake and after
+about fifteen days we reached Pay Creek. here we placer mined the whole
+summer. and agin fell in With Jack Freeman and all planned a trip
+beyond the haunts of men. We beat down the river that early autumn
+traded our gold-dust for food, went back to the mouth of the Mullen
+River, then began our march up mullen river. Always before in my life I
+had been stepping in the footsteps of some predecessor; but now I was to
+make tracks where man had never been.
+
+Before begining the Arctic Expedition I called all the men up and
+explained what it might mean--death hardships were all discussed but
+they willingly agreed to go, in fact urged the expedition. then I said
+if you loose your life your blood will be upon your own judgement and
+not upon my head. If we go we shall brave all-together the severe
+hardships, if we loose like many others, our funerels will be tearless,
+and inexpensive, If we win then each shall share a like in the spoils.
+We had an elegent supply of foods.
+
+Of Flour, Salt, sugar, rice, corn-starch, block-matches, candles, We had
+forty pounds of chewing tobacco, and eighty pounds of smoking, we had
+six bottles of Paroxide--six bottles of Lemon-extract, Blue ointment,
+Castor oil, ten Irish potatoes, and other medicines in our chest, But I
+wish the reader to notice that on no trip did I ever allow one drop of
+liquor in any form to be packed in my load. The worst thing for any man
+who is fighting cold to do; is to bowl up on red-eye. he is only the
+worse for it. I was bragging one day on this when a fellow said "I have
+heard this but how do you get allong when your whole crew are dam
+drunkards except the Kidd. Well I said I cannot keep them from it in
+town; but Black Beaver can keep it off the sleigh and when men are where
+it cannot be secured they do not drink.
+
+And further I argued that I never tasted intoxicants. That The Kidd Tom
+Bardine and Old Ed Scott were also tetotalers--so the only chance he had
+for argument was that Black Dave, And a few other lads from Alaska were
+the only drinkers I ever had.
+
+In addition to our rations we had a great deal of dried fish for our
+dogs, we had severel candle fish for lights, and a large quantity of
+dried fish for fuel.
+
+Early in September We started out for Point Barrow through the interior
+overland where to my present knowledge man has never traveled. After we
+reached the head of Mullen river we started up the Arctic divide; and on
+fifteenth day of October we gained the top of the divide. This was many
+miles north of the Arctic Circle.
+
+Now I had looked upon many charming scenes in my wild and wandering
+life; but while standing on the ridge of this great divide which seems
+to separate the green world and the land of sunshine and birds and
+flowers from the land of almost intolerable cold crisp snow, giant
+Iceburgs glaciers and snow-slides--I saw the fairest sight I had ever
+looked upon. Far westward the dying sun was painting the lofty
+snow-capped mountains, Northward the borrowed beams were shimering on
+the polar ice-bergs, in the Arctic Sea, Eastward were the last broken
+prongs of the defiant mountains known to the world as the rockies; and
+southward in all its modest beauty lay the mammoth valley of earths
+greatest river the Yukon. I bid farwell to the known world and sang the
+old old song--"In far away Alaska, where the Yukon river flows"
+
+And then started down the great Arctic slope into the black bosom of the
+north. As we waved our hands in parting at southern civilization we
+hailed with a new delight the mystic and unruly regions of the north.
+The first day of our descent the weather lost controll of its furious
+temper, and how things did hum, Cyclones in Iowa and Colorado, Blizzards
+in Newbraska and the Dakotas, all which have raged for a thousand years
+melted into one could not furnish the momentum nor terror of this storm
+for a second.
+
+We camped under the shelter of a great glacier on top of the south side
+and there let the weather howl, When the weather abated we took up the
+march in earnest with all our vigor and after several days we came to a
+branch of a river--which we have since found out was called by the
+indians coa-ville river. you could tell that at certain seasons water
+ran down here, it was by no means a river in the sense of rivers such as
+they appear in other countries even in the dead of winter. We followed
+in this water trail about forty miles till we came to a pair of great
+glaciers which met in the center of the river then we were forced to go
+back and circle around them which took us two days. When we were again
+back on the bed of the river and had got along safely for about ten
+miles suddenly our back sled broke through the ice, and was caught by a
+mighty current and hurled under the ice--quicker than you could say Jack
+Rabbit. On this sled was most of our flour--this was ill luck we then
+named the Stream Lost flour river. Still we continued to go toward the
+north, the days grew short about three hours of daylight every
+twentyfour hours. So we had to use what is known as The "Arctic Bug" A
+tin can with a candle stuck in one side and lighted. Night after night
+we were surrounded by Siberian Wolves they hungred for our flesh. It was
+so cold that We had to sleep in our Reindeer sleeping bags through the
+night--so occasionally we would have to unlace our bags and smoke up the
+wolves and then depend upon a little rest till they got too fresh again.
+
+Our dogs stood the trip well we fed them once a day gave them a single
+fish each evening after the days work was done, it is always best to
+feed in the evening the Husky or Malimouth is a very ferocious dog and
+if you do not keep them hungry they get lazy and will not mind but will
+defy you. many a dog-teamseer has accidently fallen down near his team
+while breaking trail and been eaten up. if you fall down they will jump
+on you like a lion. It is spectacular to see us feed them we remove the
+muzzle and harness take our gun in one hand unlock the fish box and call
+the dogs by name one by one at the same time throwing a fish at the one
+we mention, they will catch their fish like old Cy Young would a league
+ball even if it goes much higher than you intended they will climb the
+sky for fish. The Work dog is a great asset to the travelers in that
+region. a good team will travel over a broken trail seventy five miles a
+day. it is a very pretty sight to see a well trained team travel. These
+dogs can pull a load weighing from one hundred to two hundred pounds
+according to the road and hills. Examine our big team two of which we
+had with us on this famous journey. Each day brought its new dangers and
+difficulties, each night had its terrors the inevitable howl of the
+wolves, the sneaking glacier bears, the extreme cold, the brilliant glow
+of the Aurora Borealis Which hissed high over our heads and shot like
+lightling in varigated rays, in sound resembling a turkey gobbler
+unfolding his wings. I cannot go into all the details of this trip into
+the unknown it was up and down glaciers, following often in the path
+where just recently a great snowslide traveled, carrying hundreds of
+tons of snow and ice and breaking and crashing like a ruined world. The
+snow slide is the greatest of all dangers in this region, I have seen as
+many as five all at one time, some are known as annuals or old
+faithfulls, others are known as untimely, and treacherous. many an
+Alaskan lies burried in valleys hundreds of feet below the surface in
+mountains of snow. I have always escaped the snow slide, I always test
+the snow as I go. If I get on a slope where Snowslides are frequent I
+prod deep into the snow to ascertain its actual depth, where the snow is
+thick it is most apt to slide. The cry is keep close to the rocks and
+you are safe. After many days of severe suffering and fighting cold we
+came to a perpendicular ridge of ice which we discovered was a long
+ridge, there seemed to be no way around so we prepared to let over each
+other. It was about one hundred feet down to the ice. I was the first to
+test the ropes, then one by one the dogs, sleighs, guns and all was over
+except the last man. we had provided for him, the rope was fastened
+under a huge piece of ice; and after he slid down we all pulled on the
+rope it brought cake and all over.
+
+We were traveling the next day down the river when one of the boys saw
+a sleigh setting up a gainst a hill of ice, I went over to examine it
+and found it to be an Eskimo's Igloo. I got down on my knees and crawled
+into the hole on the south side. Inside were nine Eskimos, they quickly
+grabbed their lances, but I spoke to them in their language and they
+seemed pleased and soon layed down their spears and made me welcome. I
+backed out of the door and told the boys what I had found, we all went
+into the house and in less than ten minutes at least one hundred Eskimos
+were around the hut. Manny of them had never seen a white man and we
+were to them a wonder they would walk around us and look at us like a
+batch of monkeys. I gave the Chief's wife a small hand glass and they
+all looked into it and behind it like so many animals. I presented the
+chief with a watch and he gave me a Silver Fox in return. The Eskimos
+are great Pot-latchers That means givers to each other. they are very
+free hearted They seldom own anything very long at one time it is given
+from one to another constantly. We were planning to go on toward the
+Mouth of Gold river but the Chief told me his daughter was to be married
+in two moons: we stayed to attend the wedding. So I had a privelege to
+ascertain how the Eskimos make love and are married. If a girl is in
+love with an Eskimo she sends for him and combs his hair with her
+fingers. If he loves her he returns again if not he does not. they are
+engaged exclusively by the parents, then afterward are informed they are
+to be married. They are usually married in the moonlight the parents of
+the bride and groom pronounce the cerimony. The bride and groom stand in
+the center, over a lamp, around them are their parents. around the
+parents are the next nearest relatives, them around them again are the
+friends. All form a circle and the inner circle march to the right the
+next circle march to the left--thus alternating As many times as there
+are circles. at this wedding there were about ten big circles and they
+looked funny enough under those bright stars and the great moon
+painting the ice and snow as far as the eye could reach, all dressed in
+fur going in opposite directions. They were given an ice house and the
+bottom was covered a foot thick with fine furs. I explained to the chief
+whose name was Snatch-bow, about the warm weather in the south, he
+watched me in wonder and then stood up and said "Injun have no house he
+all melt. I no go there" Of course he said this in Eskimo. In his house
+was a few pieces of furniture. In the center was the knuckle bone of a
+macedon with a nice dish shaped top this was filled with oil, a string
+was laid in this; and one end lighted this was their only light. This
+lamp served also as a nurseing bottle for the babies. They had two round
+pieces of driftwood they used for chairs. In another hut I found they
+used hollow bones filled with oil for lamps with a cover over them and a
+wick made of a sea-weed. The squaws would lift the cover and take a sip
+out of the lamp and then go on with their work. Oil is their favorite
+drink. The Eskimos are very hardy so far as enduring cold is
+concerned--I saw an Eskimo bobbing--that is how they fish--hold a fish
+on a string just under water and as the big fish comes after it they
+spear it with a spear they hold in their other hand--This man was
+bobbing and his squaw was sitting on the shore watching him. on her
+bosom lay a babe about three months old, it was rapped around with a
+piece of fur its face was partly bare, it was snowing fine snow
+resembling frost, it was about 65 deg. below zero, as I passed I saw they
+snow in the babies face and wondered it was not dead just think of a
+babe under such an temperature sleeping with the snow falling in its
+tender face. It seems utterly impossible but it is true. But when you
+look for strength long life endurance or inteligence in the Eskimo you
+seek in vain. They all have sore matterated eyes, one fifth of them are
+deformed. one in ten has the consumption. and the average life of the
+Eskimo is about 30 years. They average to weigh about 90 pounds and
+stand about four feet and six inches high.
+
+They are perfectly friendly even if they never saw a white man. They
+wrap up the dead in skins and hang them up, they freeze still and so
+remin till eaten by some wild beast. The Eskimos are beyond doubt the
+happiest people on earth, they never lie, steal, cheat, murder nor mix
+in family intercourse so common among all other indians. They have
+absolutely no religion, no expectation of ever coming to life when once
+dead. They are very ignorant and dirty their huts are black with smoke,
+their faces are oiled and covered with black from the oil smoke. Their
+huts never get warmer than the freezing point. they undress when they
+sleep. and use fish to cook their food, when they cannot get driftwood.
+
+A great deal of driftwood floats in around the river mouth which is
+carried to the Arctic Ocean by the Great Mackinzie river and is
+distribuated all allong the shore and picked up in the summer and used
+in the winter. This wood providentialy sent is certainly a blessing to
+the Eskimos of this region.
+
+As I passed from hut to hut trading, I chanced to run across some
+indians from Candle Creek where I first learned to talk Eskimo. They
+were very glad to see me and used me fine making it very pleasant for
+us. One night while traveling from one town to another--for it was
+nearly all night at that time--two of my men were robbed--that was a
+piece of wonderment in these parts and in the life of the oldest indian
+it had never happened. As soon as the boys reported I took the Kidd and
+we set out to stop the thief--we went less than five miles when we
+overtook a rather unusual large Indian which I at once reconized as The
+worst Desperado in Alaska--he had killed several white men and about
+fifty of his own tribe, I first met him at Candle Creek, I pulled my gun
+and ordered him to put up his dukes--he did and I said John Spoon I know
+you and I guess you know me, unload that gold and those furs you took
+from my men or, I'll let daylight through you--He did a great stunt of
+obeying he was scared half to death, I had a notion to kill the other
+half. I was a fool to let him off so easy--But I always hate to shoot
+even an indian. Well we worked down to the Sea, and a few hours each day
+dug at placer mining. after forty eight days we took our gold about
+$4,455,00 and set out for the mouth of the Mackinzie river. This was a
+terrorable trip The sea had piled up ice-burgs so we had to travel
+allong the mountain side--Our hardships had been extreme and as we
+neared the Delta of the great River one day I noticed The Galloping
+Swede was loosing his mind, or getting crazy with hardships, which is
+the most incurable of all diseases, He had been snow blind, had had sore
+eyes, was homesick and lonesome, and the added over exposeures had
+ruined that bright and cultured mind. Lee Wilda--for this is his name
+had been with me a long time. his home was in Minnesota, his father was
+dead but he had a mother and a sister. Twice on our way we had to let
+our dogs and plunder over ice precipreses, with our lash ropes. Finaly
+we reached Coleville river and crossed over. it was about a half mile
+wide at the mouth. Just after crossing over this stream we saw 148 Polar
+bears on one cake of ice feeding on a dead whale. Allong this trip so
+near the sea we saw hundreds of seals, and walrus and killed a Muskox
+the most rare animal in the world. After over forty days we reached the
+mouth of the Mackinzie river, it is about eight miles across the mouth,
+and drains The great baer lake, the great slave lake, the lesser slave
+lake, The peace river the Athabaska river and hundreds of tributaries in
+to the Sea. It was nearing spring, we had no calendar, and did not even
+know the month of the year. We were glad: our sleighs were getting worn
+out, so were our snow shoes, and our provission was nearly gone and Lee
+was a raving maniac. We still had the main range of the Rocky mountains
+to cross. We came to a small station about one hundred miles up the Teal
+river: but the frenchman refused us anything to eat. He was buying fur
+for a fur Co. and wanted to kill off all indipendent traders. Without
+his consent I took what grub I wanted, he did not like it much permit me
+to say--but he choose this in preference to cold lead, I left him his
+full pay and begn our weary march to head of the Porcupine river. just
+before we reached the porcupine We met an indian prospector and gave him
+ten dollars for a pan of flour, and so got on to Fort Yukon.
+
+Our feet were sore, so were our eyes, we were tired and worn out. We
+rested a few days and agin hit the road, we follwed down the Yukon to
+the Tannana and up this river a long ways and then struck across The
+mountains to the Kuskakwim river. And as we were going down marten creek
+One of my dogs bit me: he tore off the hole end of my finger. It was a
+bad bite the weather was very cold, and I could not give it proper care.
+Four days later blood poison set in, my hand began to swell and pain me,
+worst of all we were loaded with Polar bear seal and white fox. My hand
+grew worse and worse I could not travel any longer so we had to throw
+away all our Polar bear and the dogs had to draw me. It was so cold that
+I had to walk at times, this lasted for eleven days. And for eleven
+nights, I walked around while the other boys slept. After this time we
+struck Shushitna Station then we made Knik. from here we started for
+Seldovia but were foundered for two days near Fire Islands. when Maud
+the Moose picked us up and took us to Seldovia. Here a Government nurse
+operated on my finger and by her skill and my nerve she saved my life.
+After four weeks I shipped on the Portland for Seattle leaving my men to
+go back to the claims and stay till I could return. With the exception
+of Lee Wilda he we sent to Seward to a doctor. During the most
+excruciating pain I sold my Mine known as the Roving Trapper and
+completed my Journey to the States, carrying with me a Dr. and A Trained
+Nurse.
+
+After a long and dedious journey we reached Seattle and there I was
+confined to a room in the Hospital for four weeks--after which I took
+the overland limited for Michigan. One the fourth day of June I landed
+in the old town of my Childhood--Fife Lake.
+
+I learned that my Father and mother still lived but had long since sold
+the farm and kept a small store in town. Once I could have named every
+individual I met--but now as I walked up the hill from the depot I was
+an entire stranger--Twenty years makes a great change, Many were my
+meditations as I walked over the little marsh where I had so often
+passed when a mere child. I entered the old store, the one in which I
+spent my babyhood--where Father ran store before he bought the farm An
+old lady stooped, and seamed came in to ascertain that which I wanted,
+had I have been any other place I could not have gussed who she was, I
+told her I wanted a quarters worth of Cigars, I sat down upon the old
+chest which I still remembered, and began to smoke, memory was
+busy--Could this be my mother, I saw her last twenty years before, her
+locks were black as a raven's wing, her eyes like stars in mid-winter,
+her form straight agile and graceful--A horrorable thought seized me--I
+threw away the cigar and walked over to mother and told her I was her
+baby--I took her in my arms--It was a severe shock to mother, she had
+long mourned me dead, together we wept, she for joy, but I for the
+greatest mistake of my lifetime those twenty long years of prodigality.
+No man ever repented more bitterly over his rash and careless actions
+than I did that fourth day of june.
+
+Presently my Father came in--he too was old and gray--that step which
+had ever been so nimble and elastic was now abated, he did not recognize
+me--till he saw mother had been crying then his suspiction was aroused
+and I broke down--father took me one his lap; kissed me and welcomed me
+home.--Boys I have made a great mistake,--I can never recover the loss
+connected with this carelessness by all means never patron my example.
+
+When the town folks found out who I was and that I was back from
+far-away Alaska they began to come in to see me--they had a right too
+They had watched over my dear old mother and father when they were sick
+as only the best friends on earth know how, how much I owe those dear
+old neighbours at Fife Lake. They filled the house and store and we had
+a great time for several days. I had to leave the old folks again
+without their consent, but not without their knowledge. successively I
+visited my relation not one of them ever guessing who I was till I
+informed them.
+
+While visiting among the haunts of civilization I conceived the idea
+that a splendid outfit of furs, dogs, and other educative curios would
+be of interest to the folks of the States. so to morrow I set sail for
+Alaska to secure such an outfit which I hope you may satisfactorly
+inspect before reading my book.
+
+Yours truly--Black Beaver.
+
+Webster So. Dak. April 17, teenth 1911.
+
+
+
+
+Bits of Information--Characteristics of Black Beaver
+
+
+Black beaver was never lost but once in his life And that was in
+Cordalane Idaho. It had a peculiar effect upon him, it made him, sick to
+his stomach, sleepy and gave him the head ache. He never carried a
+compass in his life. can awaken at any hour of the night and point north
+south east or west.
+
+Black beaver gives a recipe for cureing gray hair. this alone is worth
+the price of this book--"When I went up to Alaska I was quite gray
+headed I was crossing Jumbo Glacier, going North-west, they wind was
+cold and exceedingly stout my steel registered over seventy below
+zero--I was making good time--I became warm and perspired a little--for
+about ten seconds I removed my cap when I discovered my scalp was
+frozen. for nearly a year my hair was all out around my ears--at last it
+came in just as black as it was when I was a child--(Se my head seeing
+is believing) Ladies, gentemen freeze your scalp if you are gray"
+
+Black Beaver is a natural tarveler in cold regions because; he is always
+feeling of himself to see if he is freezing. which is the only way one
+can tell in extreme cold.
+
+An excciting place to sleep--on a Glacier which moves about ten feet a
+day--it is cracking, bursting exploding, trembling, groaning and
+together with the Glacier Bears and howling dogs, and Siberian wolves,
+and rolling around to keep from freezing is very soothing. Now I have
+fought buffalo flies in Michigan, Bed Bugs in Wisconsin, Lice in
+Wyoming, Rattlesnakes in Colorado, Coyotes in North Dakota, Rats in
+Australia, Spiders in South America,--But Glaciers are of all places I
+ever attempted the most exciting and difficult to get a little sleep.
+
+The Glacier is moved forward by the compressed air which gets into the
+crevices behind the glaciers when it is split open by frost--then it
+freezes again and explodes which moves the great mountain into the
+river. The Glaciers not only furnish the water supply for the world--but
+also keep it fresh.
+
+The term Mushing has been used in the book that means to walk.
+
+The term Pan, means one dollar, Bum Pan means a half dollar. Hit means
+five dollars.
+
+A great manny hunters have severe accidents with their guns--often they
+burst when they are fired off--this is caused by dirt accidently getting
+into the end of the barrel which so many inexperienced hunters
+unconscouusly do. I have known an explosion caused by snow in the end of
+the muzzle.
+
+There was a very bad bear in Wyoming known as "Old Three points" There
+was an Irishman crossing over his territory and while sitting on a rock
+he looked up and saw "Old Three Points" coming toward him evidently on
+his track--for he was putting his noose to the ground seemingly in every
+track--"The Irishman said" Oh! its tracks ye want--then be gorry I'll
+make ye some" and he did. as many have done.
+
+I was employed by a Ranchman to kill Three Points--so named because he
+had a nail torn off and left but three points to his track with his
+right paw. I took two of the best marksman I had and we rode over into
+his territory--after we had cooked our meat partly because we were
+hungry, and partly to draw the old fellow on by the scent--and before we
+had time to eat our meal the old plough hove in sight--
+
+He was certainly in fighting trim, he came down over the hill--like a
+Newbraska cyclone--every log he came to he would knock clean out of his
+road the stones were flying right and left, he would knock rotton logs
+all to pieces, he would not turn aside for anything, he had been in a
+fight his hair was ruffled up, he was all covered with blood, and had
+been wounded several times, all at once we opened up on his with three
+bullets in his pelt driven there by guns which struck thirty eight
+hundred pound apiece--he just groaned and staggered a little, and made
+for us, We split up and gave him dope from three quarters which was more
+than old Three points had expected; and before he could claw any of our
+meat he lost his appetite because we had fed him too much lead.
+
+Black Beaver--knows how to live outdoors better than we know how to live
+indoors. He never catches cold, he positively knows every time just
+where to sleep, he never sleeps on his back if the ground is cold or
+damp--always upon his stomache.
+
+He could teach the U.S. Army something worth knowing--about living out
+doors.
+
+Black Beaver knows what animals think. Can tell just what maneuver a
+dog, wolf deer, or even a fish will go through on almost every occasion.
+
+The Eskimos at Point Barrow--think the Aurora Borealis is caused by the
+Great Icebergs toppling over into the water, and the water is so much
+warmer than the great lump of ice covered with frost that an explosion
+takes place--caused by the coming together of these two substances so
+different in temperature. Then the ice splits and the explosion causes
+light ans makes a noise which is always heard in the Arctics.
+
+The Eskimo scoffs at the idea of man reaching the North Pole. They say
+the place where the pole is supposed to be, is an unfinished part of
+creation, and how can man find that which has not been created. They say
+the north Pole is one continous upheavel of indisscribable explosions.
+That not a bear, owl, tomigan, fox, indian or even a whale or fish could
+live, nor do they live beyond the hut of the Eskimo.
+
+Could you if you could not write, write a better book? I have no vain
+idle catchy words, but news in a nude form do you appreciate news, gold
+dug out of mud? then give me credit for what I have done rather than for
+what I have said. Read my later publications. So excuse the errors of a
+sourdough, keep track of me I want to talk to you later. Good bye for
+this time. I shall enjoy being a true friend to every reader of Black
+Beaver the Trapper.
+
+Ask me questions, if you have my address, write to me while I am in the
+wilderness. I once stopped and listened for an hour to the disputed
+music of a Baby's cry.--then if this consoled--perhaps you can, I start
+tomorrow for the Golden shore Of Alaska, over rough seas, swollen
+rivers, rocky coasts and shaggy hillsides. But I shall return
+again--From that wilderness, to enjoy and make glad the gentle loving
+people in the States where the stars and stripes defend, And where
+maidens and lovers, husbands and wives, enjoy sweet life and charities
+beyond the possibility of any race in any other land under God's
+girdling skies.
+
+  THE END.
+
+Black Beaver's Address Permanently, is Fife Lake, Grand Traverse Co.,
+Mich.
+
+[Illustration: WASHING GOLD AT POINT BARROW, ALASKA]
+
+[Illustration: ARCTIC JIM AT ST. MICHAELS]
+
+
+
+
+  THE LARGEST AND MOST SUCCESSFUL FUR
+  SELLING ESTABLISHMENT IN THE WORLD
+
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+  If you will write to us today we will send you FREE
+
+  A VALUABLE BOOK ON TRAPPING
+
+  and A HANDSOME PICTURE IN COLORS
+
+  showing the correct way to stretch and prepare furs for market.
+
+  IF YOU WANT THE MOST MONEY FOR YOUR FURS IN
+  THE QUICKEST TIME SHIP YOUR FURS TO
+
+  FUNSTEN BROS. & CO.
+  ST. LOUIS, U.S.A., 2nd and ELM STREETS
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Black Beaver, by
+James Campbell Lewis and George Edward Lewis
+
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