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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The art of promoting the growth of the cucumber and melon
+       in a series of directions for the best means to be adopted
+       in bringing them to a complete state of perfection
+
+Author: Thomas Watkins
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2008 [EBook #27548]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon;
+
+IN A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS
+
+FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED IN BRINGING THEM TO
+
+_A COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BY
+
+THOMAS WATKINS,
+
+_Many Years Foreman with Mr. Grange, of Hackney, and now with W. Knight,
+Esq. Highbury Park._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LONDON:
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET;
+
+AND SOLD BY GRANGE AND DULLY, FRUITERERS, COVENT GARDEN; MASON AND SON,
+SEEDSMEN, FLEET STREET; WARNER AND CO. SEEDSMEN, CORNHILL; GARRAWAY,
+NURSERY AND SEEDSMAN, NEAR MARYLAND POINT, STRATFORD, ESSEX; AND BY THE
+AUTHOR, AT HIGHBURY.
+
+1824.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon.
+
+
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+The author begs to inform the purchasers of this work, that it was
+originally his intention to have given an engraving of the particular
+description of cucumber and melon, which he has been so successful in
+bringing to a state of perfection; and, in fact, a plate was executed,
+at a considerable expense, for that purpose. Finding, however, that
+although accurate in its representation of _fine_ fruit, it did not
+pourtray the difference, nor convey the precise idea of those qualities
+which constitute the superiority of the author's; and aware that such
+would have been obvious to every experienced gardener, the design was
+necessarily abandoned, trusting, that as it was merely intended for an
+embellishment, its deficiency will not render the work less valuable to
+the profession.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+The Cucumber Seed-bed for October                              Page 1
+
+The Fruiting Frame for early Plants                                14
+
+The Seed-bed for January                                           43
+
+On the Culture of the late Cucumber                                46
+
+On the Hand-glass Cucumber                                         51
+
+Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and late Cucumbers    59
+
+On the Culture of early and late Melons                            65
+
+Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto                       83
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+Having, when young, imbibed a particular inclination to study the
+culture of the cucumber and melon, under the direction of my father,
+whose character as an early framer was in high repute, I assiduously
+tried every experiment which was calculated to improve upon his system,
+by bringing them to a more complete state of perfection.
+
+In marking the progress of their growth, I usually committed to writing
+those plans which I had found to have been productive of beneficial
+effects. The result of these remarks has proved the compilation of the
+following treatise, undertaken at the request of several
+horticulturists, who have expressed their desire to become acquainted
+with the process of my mode of cultivation.
+
+Considering it superfluous to enlarge this work by unnecessary or
+controversial observations, I have confined myself entirely to those
+directions, upon which I have uniformly acted; and have endeavoured to
+reduce them into as plain and simple a form as possible; at the same
+time observing to omit nothing which can be of utility in this difficult
+and hitherto imperfectly understood branch of horticulture.
+
+Several gardeners, who are now very eminent in their profession, have
+placed themselves under my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectly
+satisfied that the instruction they received, was fully adequate to the
+compensation required; and perfectly convinced them of the superiority
+of my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, that the advice given to
+such practitioners is contained in the following directions.
+
+My principal object in the different experiments I have tried, has
+always been to discover an easy, as well as a certain method of maturing
+these delicate plants, and, in consequence, have avoided, as much as
+possible, any artificial means that might be attended with difficulty or
+expense.
+
+The only writer I know upon this subject, with the exception of
+Abercrombie, whose system is now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phail,
+gardener to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published a treatise in the
+year 1795, in which he strenuously recommends brick pits for cucumbers
+and melons, as far superior to the dung bed. It will be obvious,
+however, to every person who has perused that work, that the plan was
+adopted merely through deficiency of knowledge in the proper management
+of the dung bed; for Mr. M'Phail asserts, that upon first attempting to
+produce early cucumbers in Lord Hawkesbury's garden, he completely
+failed, and was, in consequence, induced to apply to some horticulturist
+in the neighbourhood, to whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas for his
+instruction. The principal thing he appears to have been taught, was to
+keep the burning heat of the dung about the roots of the plants down by
+the continual application of water into the bed; which, however, he
+found insufficient to preserve them in a thriving state, throughout the
+winter months. This caused him to assert that it was out of the power of
+any person to keep a dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable to
+rear them at that time of the year. To this I have only to observe, that
+the following directions will prove a contradiction; for if they are
+strictly attended to, no fear need be entertained of their vigorous
+growth, either from the premature season, or the inclemency of the
+weather.
+
+In December and January, although their health is certain, I must allow
+that they do not grow so fast as in other months; and this is the
+particular time when difficulty is experienced by those who are
+unacquainted with the proper means to be adopted, although, perhaps,
+their efforts may have been attended with far more trouble than the
+rules here prescribed.
+
+The dung bed is certainly of the greatest importance both in the culture
+of the cucumber and melon; and want of knowledge in the management is
+generally the cause of the loss of the plants in the winter season, by
+the settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which cannot be removed
+without assistance from the sun: particular attention, therefore, to the
+directions given upon that point is highly necessary; indeed, it cannot
+be too strongly impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that upon
+this greatly depends the success of his endeavours to mature them to any
+degree of perfection.
+
+In the remarks upon preserving the plants from a cold moisture, in the
+most inclement weather, I have called to assistance what may be
+technically termed an artificial sun; and as this most material point
+may be perfectly understood I shall here describe it more particularly.
+
+Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly the top of the box with hay,
+straw, or any kind of sweet litter; observing that hay, however
+damaged, is certainly preferable; this will have the desired effect in
+promoting a top heat, and obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, in
+keeping the plants perfectly dry.
+
+To those who are unacquainted with the management of a dung bed, a brick
+one certainly appears more advantageous, in being attended with less
+trouble to the horticulturist, though infinitely with more expense, both
+in the building and consumption of dung: this, however, is a mistaken
+idea, for nothing certainly can be more congenial to the growth of
+either the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat: this essential
+requisite, which may always be obtained by the process hereafter
+described, can be but partially promoted in brick pits; for although
+water, in its necessary application, may create a steam heat, it soon
+evaporates; and the heat of the linings having to pass through the
+bricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite incapable of affording any
+nourishment to the plants.
+
+The limited space in which the plants are confined in their growth by
+brick pits, is also a very great objection to this mode of culture. That
+they derive their chief support from the extremity of the roots must be
+obvious to every one, and if these are concentred in the middle of the
+bed, and thereby rendered incapable of expanding over the flues as in
+the dung bed, they must be certainly deprived of that vigour which is
+natural to them from a free and uninterrupted growth, and where they
+experience the whole of the benefit that can arise from the bed in which
+they are placed. In short, the dung bed in so many instances is superior
+to brick pits, that competition in the culture of either the cucumber or
+melon by the latter plan would be entirely useless; for whether in the
+vigour of the plants, quickness of growth, or production of fine fruit,
+the dung bed, systematically attended to, as described in this treatise,
+will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive means are not always
+attended with the most beneficial results.
+
+In the following directions, the first thing I have taken notice of, is
+the early cucumber, as being the most difficult, and consequently the
+most particular in its process of culture. Strict attention and
+perseverance in the method prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to a
+complete state of perfection within the time limited.
+
+Secondly--The necessary directions will be found for promoting the
+growth of such cucumbers as are sown in January. It is here necessary to
+observe, that this is the most preferable season for those which are
+not required so very early; as the increasing temperature of the weather
+in the course of their growth, affords facility for their being matured
+with a greater degree of strength.
+
+Thirdly--The method of bringing to perfection the late frame, or spring
+sown cucumber. The directions upon this head will be found extremely
+useful, both to young practitioners, and those who are not professed
+horticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate their own gardens, and are
+desirous of possessing a cucumber bed, will find the information here
+given of great utility.
+
+Fourthly--In treating upon the process necessary for the management of
+the hand-glass cucumber in the summer months, I have offered an improved
+system, which will be found of considerable importance to gardeners in
+general in enhancing the value of their fruit, by rendering it much
+superior to that produced by the common method.
+
+The directions I have given with regard to the melon, will be found to
+explode all that difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined exists
+in the production of this choice fruit. The description given of my
+method of culture, will at once evince the simplicity of its process,
+and show the certainty of its result.
+
+Having explained the motives which induced me to undertake this work, I
+have only to observe, that the system has been productive of great
+advantage to myself, in enabling me to supersede my contemporaries in
+several annual shows, by obtaining the prize; and, to render this
+effective to every person, the principal thing required, as before
+mentioned, is attention and perseverance in the rules prescribed; and
+those who adopt them will, I am confident, acknowledge their utility,
+and be sensible of the benefits that must eventually arise from a
+practical improvement in this particular branch of horticulture.
+
+THOMAS WATKINS.
+
+Highbury Park, January 30, 1824.
+
+
+
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER:
+
+_To be sown from the 10th to the 20th of the Month._
+
+
+One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows-full, will be sufficient for a
+one-light box, and let it be put together at least three weeks before
+making the bed, in a round or square heap, being particular in well
+treading it down. If the dung is dry, it will be necessary to give it
+some water; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. Let it lay in
+this state a week, and then turn it, shaking the outsides of the heap
+into the middle, and give it some more water. In doing this, it is
+requisite that the heap should be well shook to pieces, and trod down.
+Let it lay another week, at the expiration of which, observe the same
+directions as before given, applying the quantity of water in proportion
+to the dry nature of the dung. At the end of the third week, it will be
+in a proper condition to make use of, as by that time it will be
+sufficiently moist and hot, the necessary state in which it should be,
+before the formation of the bed.
+
+As much depends upon the nature of the dung, and its proper condition,
+great attention should be paid, and some judgment exercised in the means
+best calculated to prepare it for a state of fermentation. The most
+certain method that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a beneficial
+result is, in the summer months, to pack the dung you intend to make use
+of for the October seed-bed as close together as possible, taking care
+to keep it dry, that it may retain its virtue. This sort of dung is far
+preferable to that newly made, being less rank and not so liable to
+burn; and when under a state of preparation, by turning and moistening,
+as before described, it will be in a much better condition than any that
+can be fresh procured.[1]
+
+Before forming the bed, let the bottom be made in the following
+manner:--Raise the ground about six inches above the level with road
+sand or mould, upon the top of which place some fagots, or other kind of
+wood, to the height of a foot, in order that the bed may be well
+drained. If there is an insufficiency of dung, you can add a foot of dry
+rubbish, such as strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose stuff.
+Let the bottom be extended nine inches wider than the frame you intend
+to make use of, the height of the bed being at the back four feet, and
+in the front, three feet nine inches. Beat it well down with a fork;
+then put the box on, and fill it three parts full with the shovellings
+of the dung that is left; after which, place on the light, and let it be
+close shut down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, admit air by
+opening the frame about an inch: when it increases, so as to become very
+hot, admit more air, by extending the aperture to two inches. It must
+remain in this situation about a week; then fork it up above a foot
+deep, and if caked together, or in the least dry, give it more water.
+From two to four pots is generally sufficient; but the quantity must be
+regulated by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to observe, that
+moisture is of most important consequence to the seed-bed, and nothing
+is so well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from impurity as water.
+
+In two or three days after forking up, it will be necessary to take off
+the box and light, for the purpose of making the bed even. In doing
+this, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, and shake it to pieces;
+then put on the box again, and give the light one or two inches of air,
+according to the temperature of the weather.
+
+It will now be necessary to wrap up the bed with straw, pea-halm, or
+hay, about eighteen inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in gradually
+to a foot wide, within three inches of the top of the box.
+
+In three or four days stir up the bed in the same manner as before,
+observing that if it be in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat,
+to give it three or more pots of water, as shall seem necessary. It must
+be stirred up again in three or four days, and beat down gently with a
+fork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the old tan or mould in
+which the seed is to be deposited.
+
+A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or three weeks before the seed
+is attempted to be sown; as many evil consequences are to be apprehended
+from sowing it before, from the firing of the bed, or the impure nature
+of the dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the plants will not
+be brought to that degree of perfection, as might reasonably be expected
+from a bed in its proper heat and condition.[2]
+
+After the bed has been laid and dealt with according to the foregoing
+directions, spread two barrows-full of old tan or light mould all over
+the surface, having it a little deeper in the middle than at the sides.
+Old tan is certainly more preferable than mould, though either will
+answer the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day before the seed
+is sown, and cover the bed up with a single mat at night, taking care to
+shut it down until the morning, that the heat may be properly drawn up.
+Take some forty-eight size pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould with
+a sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. The sifting mould to a
+fine degree is an error too prevalent in horticulture, and ought
+particularly to be avoided, from its great tendency to bind.
+
+It is very requisite that a cucumber should have a good digestion, and
+in order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes at
+the bottom of the pots with broken pieces; then strew a little of the
+rough siftings of the mould over it, and fill them up within half an
+inch of the brim with the prepared mould and sand. Shake it down a
+little, and sow the seed[3] from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, just
+covering it with a little mould; then give it a small quantity of water,
+which for the first time may be cold, but great care must be taken in
+the subsequent waterings, that it be chilled to about the warmth of new
+milk.
+
+The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the bed up to the rim, and give
+them about half an inch of air. At night they must be covered with a
+single mat, taking care to turn it up at at the back, that the steam may
+pass freely from the bed. Let the air be continued both night and day.
+
+After the seed has been sown three days, it will be up, when the pots
+must be unplunged, placed on the surface, and some water given to them.
+They will now require upwards of an inch of air, both night and day,
+which will cause the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and prevent
+their drawing. In about three days give them some more water in the
+morning, and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon.
+
+Plants should be always potted off when young, as they strike more
+freely in the pots; and, in doing this, the following directions should
+be attended to.
+
+Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day before potting off, and let
+it be of the same description as that in which the seed was sown. If the
+pots are old and dirty, wash them, and be careful in having them
+properly dried before they are made use of. Take some old rotten turf,
+or a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, and place a small
+quantity over the tile at the bottom of every pot; then fill them about
+one-third full, put three plants in each, and cover the roots about an
+inch. The pots must not be plunged, but placed on the surface, and some
+water given them with a fine rose.
+
+It is necessary to have a small pot on purpose to water the plants,
+which will contain about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, which
+is much better calculated to water the plants regularly than a spreading
+one.
+
+Be particular in watering them regular, which will be requisite every
+two or three days, for the space of three weeks or a month at latest,
+when they will be in a proper condition to ridge out.
+
+After the plants have been potted three days, add a little mould to
+them, and repeat it every two or three days, for about a fortnight,
+until the pot is quite filled. Much attention should be paid to this
+method of putting in the mould, which experience has convinced the
+author is far superior to the usual practice of filling the pots in the
+first instance up to the seed-leaves of the plants. By the gradual mode
+of filling, the plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain in its
+growth of being dwarfish and strong, which cannot be insured by the
+common method, as it tends considerably to weaken the plant, and renders
+it very liable to fog off, before taking root. By potting them low, and
+only just covering the roots at first, the stems of the plants become
+hardened, and strike very freely upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumber
+always decay when forced with a strong bottom heat.
+
+It will be necessary, after the plants have been potted about a week,
+to examine the bed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there is any
+fire heat. If such should be found to be the case, and the directions as
+before given with regard to moisture have been strictly attended to, it
+can only exist in the tan, which must immediately be supplied with
+water, and, the day following, stirred well up together and levelled,
+placing the pots upon the surface. In another week again examine the
+bed, and if any fire heat still remains, attend to it as above; if not,
+stir up the tan, and plunge the pots about half way down; being,
+however, guided in this by the temperature of the bed, as plants sown in
+October do not require so much heat as those in the three following
+months.
+
+Observe, when the plants have been potted two or three days, to stir the
+mould in the pots, round the plants, and likewise the tan, with a
+sharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to freshen the plants, and
+prevent any thing of a mouldy nature from injuring them.
+
+As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, top them, by taking out
+the break that appears next, which may be easily done with the thumb and
+finger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little more than a fortnight, they
+will be in a fit state to top down; and in three weeks from the time of
+sowing, ready to ridge out.
+
+At this time of the year, the bed will not require any lining; but
+observe, that as the wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increase
+it, pressing it down close to the box, and keeping it within one-third
+of the top.
+
+If the plants are not ridged out when three weeks old, plunge them up to
+the rim, until the fruiting frame is ready for their reception, which
+ought to be at the latest when they are a month or five weeks old. If it
+should happen, however, that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by no
+means ridge them out until it is in a proper condition. After they are a
+month old, increase the lining at the back and front, about four or five
+barrows-full each, applying it in the following manner:--Remove the
+wrapping down to the bottom, and extend the dung to the width of two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed; drawing it in to about
+eighteen inches at the top. Cover the lining with the litter four inches
+wide from the bottom, and three parts as high as the box, being
+particularly careful in stopping up the inside, by pressing the tan
+close to the box, about three inches above the bottom. As the lining
+sinks, add a little wrapping to the top, formed of hay, or old litter
+that is quite sweet.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its virtue from
+six to nine months.
+
+[2] The heat required in October sown plants, while growing in the
+seed-bed, is from sixty-five to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit's
+thermometer. Should that temperature be exceeded in this season, they
+will draw up very long: but after being ridged out, more heat will
+become necessary; that is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees: and
+the same is to be observed with young plants raised in the three
+following months.
+
+[3] Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is three or
+four years old, imagining that new will grow too vigorous, and not show
+fruit or set so well; but in this they are much mistaken, the Author
+knowing, from experience, that new seed, or at least not more than two
+years old, is the best calculated for bringing to perfection both the
+cucumber and melon; possessing the advantage of a greater freedom in
+growth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old seed.
+
+
+
+
+THE FRUITING FRAME,
+
+_For Plants sown in October, November, December, and January._
+
+
+Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a three-light box, and the
+same in proportion to the number you intend to make use of. Let it be
+put together a fortnight before the seed is sown; be very particular in
+giving it plenty of water, and pack it close together. After it has laid
+a week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with water. Let it continue in
+this state another week, when the same directions as before given must
+be observed; and, in a week more, the bed will be in a fit condition to
+make up.
+
+The bottom must be prepared in the same manner as directed for the
+seed-bed; then form the bed of dung four feet three inches at the back,
+by four feet in the front, allowing for a cavity of about ten inches
+between each box; then place the boxes on, and put the shovellings
+inside, in the proportion of two or three barrows-full to a light. In
+forming the bed, it is the best plan to make it in layers of about a
+foot each, which will cause the dung to be much better mixed, than if
+all finished at first, of an equal height. Be very particular in
+separating the dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards beating it
+well down with a fork.
+
+After the bed has been thus prepared, put the lights on, and shut them
+down close until the heat begins to rise. When such is the case, give
+them about an inch of air; and in three or four days wrap the bed all
+round with dry litter or useless hay, eighteen inches wide from the
+bottom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the bed, which will
+greatly tend to promote a regular heat. As the careful wrapping up of
+the bed is an essential requisite, means must be taken to keep it close,
+and protect it from any injury that may arise in consequence of
+tempestuous weather, this may be accomplished by means of sharp-pointed
+sticks, with hooks in the form of a peg, and about the size and length
+of a broom-stick. Thrust these through the litter into the bed, about
+half way up, one to each light, at the back and front, and two at each
+end.
+
+After the bed has been made about a week or ten days, take off the boxes
+and lights, in order to level it, and let it have from four to six
+inches fall from the back to the front; in this, however, you must be in
+some degree guided by the form of the boxes, which it is necessary
+should have a good fall, that the plants may derive benefit from the
+sun; then fork up the bed about a foot deep, and again place on the
+boxes and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both night and day.
+In about four or five days it will be necessary to again fork it up, and
+give it some water, in the proportion of two pots to a light. This must
+be repeated every two or three days, until the bed is perfectly sweet,
+which is usually the case in three or four weeks, applying water during
+that time, according to the state of the bed.
+
+When you find that the bed is properly purified, put in the sifted leaf
+mould. A three-light box will require a large barrow-full; the quantity
+for a one-light being about four shovels. After this, add to the
+wrapping some sweet litter or hay, increasing it to nearly the top of
+the boxes, and apply about two pots of water to each of the cavities,
+taking care to fill them up to nearly the tops of the boxes, with short
+sweet mulshy litter. This is a point but very little known, yet of the
+greatest importance in the culture of cucumbers; for when the weather
+begins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and the boxes are placed
+close together, in the usual manner, the outsides are very liable to
+become damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is certain of doing the
+plants material injury.
+
+Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three-light box, and at night
+admit nearly two inches of air, covering them with a single mat; and if
+on the following day the plants look well, they may be safely ridged
+out.
+
+It is requisite that both the boxes and lights should be painted every
+year, at least a month before they are wanted for use; but if this
+cannot be conveniently done, be particular in washing them with boiling
+water, in which some unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in some
+measure answer the purpose of paint in effectually destroying the
+vermin, or the eggs which may have been deposited in the crevices of the
+wood.
+
+After the plants are ridged out, wash them every morning, on the
+outside, and about once a week in the inside, which will tend to reflect
+the light, and cause them to thrive much better. When you wash the
+outside, push them down about two or three inches, which will prevent
+the water from perishing the lining at the side of the boxes. If the
+plants have received no injury, and are able to bear the heat of the
+bed, ridge them out, letting the hills be about nine inches high,
+covering the roots about an inch round, and being an inch higher than
+they were when in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, rake it with
+the hand all over the bed; then water the plants, taking care, at the
+same time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the surface. Close them
+down for the space of ten minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If the
+weather is mild, in an hour it may be increased to two inches, and a
+single mat only will be requisite at night. If, however, the weather is
+windy, cover them at night with a double mat, or a single one and a
+little hay.
+
+Be very particular in allowing them plenty of air, especially of a
+night, taking care, however, to regulate this by the temperature of the
+weather. If there is much wind, they will of course require less air;
+but, at all events, it is better to give too much than otherwise, more
+particularly at the first ridging out, as the weather at this season
+being frequently subject to sudden changes, which, should it occur in
+the night, and the plants are too confined, or the least rankness
+existing in the bed, they are sure to experience material injury, which,
+at this time of year, it is very improbable they will ever recover; or,
+if with extreme difficulty, they should be brought round, they can never
+be expected to grow to any degree of perfection.
+
+Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to the depth of about nine
+inches, with a hand-fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, immediately
+give water to the part affected, that being the only effectual remedy
+that can be applied. Be careful in forking close to the bottom of the
+hills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in this place, bore
+several holes at the bottom of the hills, and apply plenty of water.
+
+Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or eight inches long, for the
+purpose of stirring the mould round the plants, in a similar manner to
+hoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much refresh the plants, and
+should be attended to while they are young, for at least two months the
+day after they have been watered.
+
+As soon as the roots begin to be visible through the hills, add three
+shovels-full of unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being very
+careful not to mould too freely, until the beginning of February, as the
+plants from the middle of December to the middle of January, lie in a
+dormant state; consequently, too large a quantity of mould at this
+season, will be attended with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, and
+preventing the heat of the bed rising in a free and proper manner.
+
+This being the season when plants are most exposed to injury, and are
+frequently lost, great care and attention is necessary for their
+preservation from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the linings well
+up, and giving a good top covering. If the weather is intense, they will
+require eight or nine inches covering of hay, and water only once a
+week.
+
+As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have dung in for a lining,
+which should always be put in the front and sides first. When the dung
+has been put together a week, turn it, and at the end of another it
+will be fit for use; one load being sufficient for a three-light box.
+After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three weeks at the
+farthest, it will be necessary to line the bed to the width of about two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope of
+about six inches towards the top. When the dung has been put about half
+way up, tread it, and then add the remainder, beating it well down with
+a fork. Cover the lining with litter about three or four inches thick at
+the outside, and within one or two inches of the top of the box; then
+place a board at the top about nine inches wide, which will keep it
+close, and assist in drawing up the heat. Be particularly careful in
+stopping the inside next to the box, when you make a fresh lining, and
+beat it close down with the hand about two or three inches above the
+bottom.
+
+When a fresh lining has been added, have the dung in readiness for the
+back, which will be required about a fortnight afterwards. It should be
+formed about two feet six inches wide, well trod down, and wrapped up in
+the same manner as the front, within three inches of the top of the
+box. Be careful that the litter is not rank; old useless hay, or litter
+that has been some time laying by, will be preferable. The same
+directions must be attended to in stopping up the inside of the box, as
+with the front.
+
+As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree affects the bed, and you
+discover that the inside, where it has been stopped, begins to get dry,
+give it some water in the evening, just before covering up, for about a
+week or ten days, which will be the means of keeping the rankness down,
+and causing a sweet steam heat to rise.
+
+As the lining settles, press it down with a spade next the box, and add
+more litter upon the top, which should be done every other day,
+observing that when you increase one lining to have the dung in
+readiness for the next; each lining not being calculated to last more
+than a month or five weeks; though the back one will not want renewing
+quite so often as the front. When you apply the second front lining, it
+will be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake or mop-stick,
+making five holes to a three-light box; that is, one under each hill,
+and two under the bars: bore them straight rather better than half way
+up the bed, so that when the second back lining is applied, holes may be
+bored exactly opposite to the others. This will cause a free circulation
+of the heat from one lining to the other, and prove not only of great
+service in regulating the temperature of the bed, but of equal advantage
+in draining off the surplus water. Take care when you add a fresh
+lining, to keep the holes open.
+
+As the linings draw the boxes down, they will require rising with boards
+and bricks. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to provide
+some small pieces of board, rather larger than a brick, placing one of
+each, with a brick, under the corners of the boxes; and, as the bed
+settles, increase the number of bricks. When you raise the boxes, stop
+up the bed with rotten moist dung, and close up the inside about two or
+three inches above the bottom of the box.
+
+The plants should be always topped when young, at the first joint, as
+before directed; then let them run two joints twice following;[4]
+afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, except it be blind,
+which may be easily ascertained by close examination; if you find such
+to be the case, let it run another joint before it is topped.
+
+It is necessary that the plants should be continued in leaf mould until
+the middle of January, as there is no other in which they will thrive so
+well at that season of the year. Their peculiar and tender nature bears
+a strong resemblance to young children, in the care requisite for their
+nurture and growth. They require light nourishment, that will easily
+digest; and no soil is so well calculated for this purpose as
+leaf-mould, mixed with a little grit; from its excellent properties in
+absorbing the water.
+
+In ridging out the plants, one thing must be attended to in the
+preparation of the bed, which has not been before mentioned. Hollow the
+bed out to the depth of about four inches in the middle, so that if the
+weather is cold or windy, the dung may be pulled down half way up the
+hills, when it will be nearly level about the bed; but as soon as the
+weather becomes mild, it must be drawn away again, or otherwise the heat
+will be too violent for the roots. As mould is added to the roots, draw
+the dung away level with the bottom of the hill; then put it half way up
+again, being, however, regulated in this by the heat of the bed, and the
+temperature of the weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts of
+the bed, take the dung out which has been placed round them, and level
+it with nearly the bottom of the box, leaving three or four inches
+round the sides to keep out the rankness from the linings, as before
+directed.
+
+In covering up the plants, a single mat will be sufficient, until they
+have been ridged out a fortnight, unless the weather is windy or very
+cold; in such case, make use of a double mat or a little hay; be
+careful, at the same time, not to give them too much covering at first,
+as it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow very weak; in this,
+however, you must be in some degree guided by the heat of the bed, and
+the temperature of the weather. When there is a good heat, and the
+weather is still, they will require less; but if there is much wind, or
+the air is very cold, it must of course be increased. It seldom occurs
+that plants require much covering until a fortnight before Christmas,
+when it will be found necessary, if the weather is moderate, to cover
+them from four to six inches. Instances have occurred, when the author
+has been obliged to increase the covering to a foot in thickness, from
+the intense cold; but this, however, is seldom the case; and from four
+to six inches may generally be considered sufficient from December to
+April. As the sun increases, and the nights become milder, reduce the
+covering to three or four inches, until May; from whence to June a
+single mat, or a little hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weather
+is now seasonable, and the nights warm, they will not require any
+covering, but should this not be the case, it is better to continue it
+even until Midsummer.
+
+Take particular care when covering up, after a fresh lining has been put
+to the bed, that the mats or hay does not hang over the lights for at
+least a fortnight, as such will draw the rank steam into the bed, and
+kill the plants.
+
+The linings should be continued until the weather is fine and settled,
+which may be expected in the middle of May; but should the weather be
+cold and unfavourable, it may be necessary to retain them until the
+middle of June.
+
+In about the third week of the month of January, the plants will
+require stronger food; and half bog and half leaf mould may be applied.
+Should there be a difficulty in obtaining bog earth, procure the top
+spit of light meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at the least,
+six months before it is wanted for use. When you mould towards the
+outside, it may be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf mould, in
+the proportion of one-fourth, with bog or light meadow earth; observing,
+however, not to mould up the plants level until some time after fruit
+has been cut. The beginning of March is the proper time to mould up
+full.
+
+Let a cavity be left at the back and front of the box of about two
+inches, to prevent the roots from being injured on the outside of the
+box by the linings; and to cause the heat to rise freely from the bed.
+
+It is very necessary that the plants should be kept thin of vine, as
+being material in the growth of fine fruit; and as they extend towards
+the outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run more than one joint
+at a time.
+
+Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the oldest first, in order that
+they may stand single, and not one over the other; to accomplish which
+it will be necessary to peg them out. When taking off the leaves, cut
+them close to the vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot and
+injure the plants. When they are laid, be particular in having the
+plants down close to the mould, as early as possible, in order that they
+may strike root; at the same time being careful not to bury the vine. In
+doing this, place a little mould round the side of the vine first,
+leaving the top uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the roots
+begin to strike. When such is the case, cover the vine all over, and
+then you may continue laying within one joint of the extremity.
+
+It is here necessary to observe, that very few are acquainted with the
+advantages that may be derived from laying the plants in a proper
+manner. Many even, who are in the habit of observing this method,
+practice it so slightly, that little if any benefit results from it; and
+by far the greatest number of horticulturists take no notice of it
+whatever. Laying is certainly a most material point in the culture of
+the early cucumber; and it is impossible to ensure a good crop without a
+strict attention to it: in fact, the Author principally attributes his
+success in the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care in this
+particular. It should be done every fortnight or three weeks after the
+plants have come into bearing; and, if continued in a regular manner,
+good fruit may be obtained until October. Some imagine that October sown
+plants will soon be worn out, after producing a few cucumbers early; but
+this is a mistaken idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, they
+will bear good fruit equally as long as any young plants sown in the
+spring. Leaf-mould, mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing to
+lay them in until the latter end of March, when you may add a stronger
+soil, composed of one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed with
+bog or light meadow earth.
+
+Soft water is essentially necessary for the plants, as hard is almost
+certain of producing the canker, unless particular means are adopted to
+prevent it. In some situations it may be impossible to obtain soft
+water; in such a case, let the water stand in a tub for at least
+twenty-four hours; if two or three days even it will be the better, as
+in that time it will be in some degree softened by the sun, and the raw
+coldness expelled from it.
+
+After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps dung is an excellent
+thing to mix with the water, if used in a moderate manner. The following
+proportion will be necessary:--To six pots of water put in the tub one
+shovel-full of dung; let this be stirred up continually for the space of
+two or three days, and when wanted for use, it must be again well
+stirred up. In watering with this mixture, be particular in having a
+small thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it may be easily poured
+under the leaves. A gallon or six quarts will be a sufficient quantity
+for one light, and in watering be careful that it is not sprinkled over
+the leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed with the water, will be found very
+beneficial to the plants, if used moderately, as too great a freedom
+will tend to injure them.
+
+When the plants are first ridged out, they will require water every
+third day, until about the middle of December; and when applied, it must
+be sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing to give a larger
+quantity where the heat seems most to prevail. In general more water is
+requisite at the back than the front: unless there is much heat in the
+front from the middle of December until the middle of January, once in
+five or six days will be sufficient to water the plants. Round the side
+of the box, and at the back, however, should be watered every night,
+while there is much heat. About two or three quarts of water at each
+time to a light will be sufficient for the plants until the middle of
+January and from that time more will be necessary. In applying the water
+you must be guided in a great measure by the state of the weather. Take
+the opportunity of watering when the sun is out, and then close them
+down for about a quarter of an hour or more, according to the season of
+the year. At all times, before watering, admit double the usual quantity
+of air about a quarter of an hour previous to the application, for the
+purpose of hardening the plants.
+
+Water may be applied at any time of the day, if the heat is good, but
+the most preferable time is certainly about eleven o'clock in the
+morning, particularly as the season advances towards the months of April
+and May, and the weather becomes more temperate, and the sun has greater
+power. After they are watered, shut them down for about ten minutes or a
+quarter of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a clear sun; then
+shade them with a mat for two or three hours, and shut the frame close
+down, in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be produced, which will
+cause the fruit to swell very quick. At one or two o'clock take off the
+mat and admit a little air. When the sun is clear and the weather hot,
+let them be shaded from eleven to two o'clock; some evergreen boughs or
+pea-sticks are very good things.
+
+Should the above directions be found inconvenient to attend to, the
+difficulty may be obviated by adopting the following method. After the
+plants are watered in a morning, shut them down, for the space of about
+ten minutes, then give them a little air; in about the same time
+increase it, and so gradually until the proper quantity is admitted. The
+gradual admission of air is extremely important, and ought, therefore,
+to be particularly attended to.
+
+The frames should never be shut down too long in the morning of the
+spring and summer months; a little air should be given at eight o'clock,
+if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be necessary to increase it;
+afterwards attending to it according to the state of the weather.
+
+In order to produce fine fruit in the early part of the season, that is
+in February and March; let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep the
+male blossoms rubbed off when young, to prevent their weakening the
+plants; the best method of doing which is with a small pointed stick.
+
+As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave a few male blossoms to
+set the fruit with. If this be not attended to in the early part of the
+season[5] the fruit will not swell off, as it is the female blossom
+alone that bears it, and if these be not impregnated with the male they
+will prove unfruitful. The female flower may easily be distinguished
+from the male, by the appearance of the fruit at the bottom of the
+blossom which the other does not possess.
+
+When the female flower is in full bloom, take a male blossom which is in
+full bloom also, and hold it in one hand, with the other split it down,
+and tear off the flowers, being careful at the same time not to injure
+the male part; then hold the male blossom between the forefinger and
+thumb of the right hand, while the female flower is held between the
+middle and forefinger of the left hand; then put the male blossom in the
+centre of the female, and the farina will adhere to it, and have the
+desired effect; should it, however, happen to fall out after it is done,
+it is of no consequence whatever, as the impregnation is received the
+instant it is put in.
+
+The proper time to set the fruit is in the morning, as it always comes
+in bloom at night, and if left until the afternoon the blossom of the
+fruit closes a little, in consequence of which it is doubtful whether
+fruition will be effected.
+
+In order to ascertain whether the male blossom is good; after you have
+prepared it as above described for use, draw the farina, or genitals,
+across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave a glutinous substance
+resembling gum.
+
+As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your finger let no more than
+one be upon a plant at a time to swell off, and when beginning to grow
+crooked give the stalk end a twist, place them on their backs, put a peg
+to the side, and the heat of the bed will soon draw them down and make
+them straight.
+
+A cucumber is a plant that requires much water, particularly when
+bearing fruit: it will be necessary then to give from one to two gallons
+each time according to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the
+weather. If the season is fine and the heat good they will require water
+every other day, but if the weather is dull, and the heat slack, be very
+cautious in applying the water lest they should get the canker, which is
+a dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be removed. The best thing
+in such a case is to give a strong heat, and be very moderate in the
+application of water.
+
+After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight it will be necessary
+to shut them down in the afternoon, about an hour before they are
+covered up. They will, however, require air in the night, generally till
+the fruit is cut, and even then if the weather is mild; for by being
+kept close at night when there is a strong heat, the fruit is liable to
+change colour and become of a yellow cast.
+
+The plants should be uncovered in a morning by eight o'clock, or nine at
+farthest, in the winter, and six or seven as the season advances, unless
+the weather is very cold or windy, when they may remain an hour longer
+than usual.
+
+Should the frame be infested with woodlice, place some cabbage-leaves or
+a small quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer the purpose of a
+trap to collect them, when they may be easily destroyed by boiling
+water. Care, however, is necessary in this expedient, for should the
+plants have taken root at the side of the box, the hot water will
+materially injure them; but if the plants are kept healthy, little
+danger is to be apprehended from this description of vermin, as they
+always like a sickly stagnated plant to a thriving vigorous one. Mice
+are sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be destroyed by procuring
+from a Chemist some ground ox vomicæ, and applying it in the following
+manner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it up well, and let it boil
+about ten minutes; take it off the fire and put in some wheat or
+cucumber seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours; or spread some
+ox vomicæ not boiled upon bread and fresh butter, place this in the bed
+near the holes at which they enter, which will effectually extirpate
+them.
+
+With regard to the time of cutting fruit[6] from October sown plants,
+much depends upon the weather, some seasons being much finer than
+others. Fruit from the October seed has been cut off by the Author as
+early as the middle of January, while at another time it has been as
+late as the beginning of March; he, however, is well satisfied if it is
+ready to cut by the middle of February: indeed, upon an average this may
+be fairly considered as the probable time for its mature growth.
+
+It is not advisable in any young beginner to sow seed in November or
+December until about the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grown
+in that season are very liable to be retarded in their growth, while
+those sown from about the twentieth of December to the beginning of
+January will grow much stronger and quicker, as they possess the
+advantage of the increase of the season. An experienced framer, however,
+can grow plants at any time of the year, and from those sown at the
+above time, he may expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March or
+towards the latter end of that month, according to the weather; much
+depending upon that and the situation of the framing grounds, which
+should at all times be open to the sun, and defended from the winds.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] The Author would recommend January-sown plants, after having been
+topped at the first joint, to run four joints, then topped again at the
+first joint, when they will generally show fruit, and, if properly
+attended to, will swell off to seven or eight inches in length, as the
+first shows do not come so fine as those afterwards. Do not let more
+than one fruit swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause them to
+grow ill-shaped, and not near so fine.
+
+[5] There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the latter end of
+May, as by that time the bees will find their way to the frames, and
+prove equally effective.
+
+[6] The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only makes use of
+three kinds of frame cucumber, which he considers preferable to all the
+others. One is a long black prickly fruit, with a fine bloom and short
+handle, well filled up. It will sometimes grow for table to the length
+of fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to twelve. It is an excellent
+bearer, but not so well adapted for October sowing as the other two
+kinds, from its tender qualities, being thin leaved and less hardy: it
+is, however, a very good sort for January and spring sowing. The other
+two kinds very much resemble each other, and will frequently grow to the
+length of twelve inches, filled up in the handle, black, prickly, and
+carry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions are from eight to ten inches;
+being thick-leaved and particularly hardy. Both these are well
+calculated for the October bed, and excellent bearers for spring sowing.
+The Author obtained them both by impregnating; and those who purchase
+the work of him, may be accommodated with a few of the seeds of either
+of the above, gratis.
+
+
+
+
+THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY.
+
+_To be sown in the beginning of the Month._
+
+
+As this is the season in which Gardeners in general sow seed for
+cucumbers, it will be necessary to take notice of a few directions which
+vary from the October seed-bed.
+
+At this time of the year young plants are much slower in their growth,
+and more difficult to be reared than in October, consequently they
+require a stronger bottom bed, though made in the same manner as above
+directed. The dung must undergo the same process in working, but should
+be six inches higher; it will also require more wrapping and covering,
+particularly if the weather is very cold; in this, however, as before,
+you must be guided by the temperature of the season; taking care not to
+cover too much at first. For the first fortnight a double mat will be
+sufficient; and after that, if the weather is intense, increase the
+covering, by adding hay to the thickness of six or nine inches, with a
+mat over it. Air should be admitted night and day, according to the
+state of the weather; but they may be closed down for about an hour,
+before covering up, after they are a fortnight old.
+
+The plants should be ridged out young, at least when they are a month
+old; but be very particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly sweet
+before they are placed in it, as it is much better to keep them in the
+pots a week, or even a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge them
+out before the bed is in a proper condition.
+
+Be careful in keeping a good heat; in having the lining applied in
+proper time; and in well wrapping them up. The lining will be required
+when they are three weeks old at the back and front. It should be two
+feet wide about half way up the bed, and lined with litter to the width
+of six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining in a proper
+condition: wrap it up also within three inches of the top, drawing it in
+gradually to about eighteen inches wide. With the exception of the
+foregoing directions, the method of treatment must be exactly the same
+as given in the Seed-bed for October.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE
+
+Late Cucumber.
+
+
+The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, that is, such as are grown in
+boxes and lights, and have no necessity for linings, is from the middle
+of March to the middle of April; and after that time seed may be put in
+for the hand-glass.
+
+Those that are sown in the middle of March will require stronger beds
+than those sown a fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should be
+made from two feet six inches to three feet high; while the latter will
+not require beds higher than two feet.
+
+Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep,
+and if the soil is light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may be
+formed of it; but if a strong loam it will not answer the purpose.
+
+As soon as the bed is made tread it down well, make it even, and let it
+have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then place on the
+boxes and light; and when the heat rises, admit from one to two inches
+of air. In about a week it will be necessary to put the mould in for the
+hills in the proportion of a barrow-full to a light. This must be
+levelled about an inch all over the bed to prevent the rank steam from
+injuring the plants. On the following day they may be ridged out, when
+the mould must be pressed with the hands close down round the roots of
+the plants; and water applied, which should be at the same time
+sprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now plenty of air, night and
+day, until the bed becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the case
+in about a week; after which they may be shut down at night.
+
+Let the topping be the same as directed for the Seed-bed in October; if
+the soil is light and rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot or
+eighteen inches wide, and as high, or even higher than the bottom of the
+box. This will prove a great support to the plants; be the means of
+producing an abundant crop of fruit; and obviate the necessity of
+laying; which must otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, or
+the boxes are unusually large. Should laying, however, be preferred,
+great attention must be paid to it, and the same method adopted as
+prescribed for the early cucumber.
+
+Particular care is requisite in the culture of the late cucumber to
+preserve it from the canker; the best means that can be adopted to
+prevent this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and always apply soft
+water. This should be given in the morning, or, if not then convenient,
+never later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when the vines will
+have an opportunity of drying before night: a fine day should always be
+taken advantage of for this purpose, which will tend considerably to
+accelerate their growth. Admit a double quantity of air for a quarter
+of an hour before watering; and while the nights continue cold, be
+careful in keeping them covered up. In some seasons, when the weather is
+inclement, it will be necessary to observe this even until Midsummer.
+
+By strict attention to the foregoing directions, no danger need be
+apprehended from the canker, as it generally proceeds from a cold chill;
+suffering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which keeps them
+continually moist; and not admitting a sufficient quantity of air
+necessary to harden them.
+
+In ridging out the plants, put two in small lights and three in larger
+ones; and when the roots appear through the hills, add mould to them;
+observing, that they will require moulding up much quicker than those
+grown at the early season: in fact, after they have been ridged out
+about a fortnight or three weeks, it will be necessary to mould them up
+fully.
+
+If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons of water for each light
+will be necessary every two or three days.
+
+Keep them pegged and laid about once a fortnight; and be particular also
+in having them thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then allowing
+them to run four, and afterwards topping them again at the first, as
+before mentioned in the January sown plants. By observing these
+directions, a good crop of fruit may be ensured, which will be ready to
+cut in about a month or five weeks after they have been ridged out.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE
+
+Hand-glass Cucumber.
+
+
+The best time to sow for the hand-glass cucumber is from the middle of
+April to the beginning of May; though they may be sown from the tenth of
+April until the middle of May; and the plants may be grown in the early
+cucumber or melon beds.
+
+When they are potted off, put three plants in each pot, being particular
+in not filling them more than three parts full, as they are very liable
+at this time of the year to draw up long in the stem. Merely cover the
+roots with mould at first; in the course of two or three days add a
+little more; and in about a week fill up the pots to the brim.
+
+It is necessary to give them as much air as possible; and to have them
+placed at the back of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. They
+must be well supplied with water, and let them be topped at the first
+joint.
+
+By this mode of treatment, you may have strong stuggy plants, fit to put
+under the hand-glass in three weeks; at all events, they should not be
+kept in the pots longer than a month, as there is a probability, if that
+time is exceeded, of their being stinted in the growth.
+
+The soil best calculated to ridge them out in, is a light rich earth. If
+the soil is of a strong loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten dung
+to it, and mix it up well together.
+
+Dig a trench about a foot in depth, and three feet wide, and let the bed
+be made up about a foot above the level, that is, two feet from the
+bottom of the trench; tread it down well, level it, and apply some water
+if it is dry; then put the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, and
+eighteen inches wide on each side of the trench; afterwards put some
+dung or leaf mould on, and dig it in. Level the mould down, so that the
+bed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten inches deep, taking
+care to leave it a little higher in the middle, where the dung is
+placed, in order that the mould may not settle, and become lower in the
+centre, which will have a tendency to injure the plants by absorbing the
+water, which is most required at the outsides.
+
+It is an excellent plan, if the ground is disengaged two or three months
+previous to the time it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it out
+six feet wide, and put in six inches of dung or leaf mould, and lay it
+up in ridges of two feet six inches in width, and a foot in depth. When
+wanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench three feet wide for the
+dung, levelling it as before directed. This method, if it can be
+conveniently attended to, is certainly preferable to the other, as it
+allows an opportunity of incorporating the dung and mould together. If
+hot dung cannot be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, provided
+the seed is not sown earlier than the month of May.
+
+Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, and when wanted for use,
+level it down; then mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three feet
+alleys; afterwards place the line to the middle of the ridge, and mark
+out three feet six inches, which must be the distance from the centre of
+each glass. Take out two spadesful of the mould, level it on the ridge,
+and put one spadeful of light rich earth in its place, for the purpose
+of receiving the seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, take out
+one spadeful, making it round and hollow, about eight inches wide; then
+sow the seed from eight to twelve under each glass. If the mould is dry,
+apply water to the seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down close,
+observing as they become dry, to sprinkle them with water.
+
+After the seed has been up about a week, it will be necessary to thin
+them out, in the proportion of six plants to each glass; and in the week
+following reduce them to three, which is the proper number to be grown
+together finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, put some light
+mould round the stems of the plants, which should be done at two
+different times, allowing a week to elapse between each application, and
+filling up the hollow that is left.
+
+As soon as they have made two rough leaves, top them at the second
+joint. This is a plan which may be adopted with success. Hot dung is
+also of great advantage, as it will cause them to come into bearing
+nearly a month sooner than would otherwise be the case.
+
+After the plants have been topped, as above directed, let them run to
+six joints, and then top them again, when they will show fruit, which
+may be topped at the first joint. If the hand-glasses are large, fruit
+will be ready to cut very early.
+
+Be particular in not suffering them to run to too much vine; six joints
+is quite sufficient at the first, and afterwards always keep them topped
+at the first or second joint. By strict attention to this mode of
+treatment, you may ensure a more abundant crop, and much finer fruit,
+than can be calculated upon from the usual method of suffering the vine
+to grow to a considerable length, which tends materially to weaken and
+exhaust the plant.
+
+Let them be kept under the glasses as long as possible, without danger
+of injuring them, admitting a small quantity of air in the day-time,
+when the weather is warm, by means of a piece of wood, in the form of a
+wedge, about seven inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about three
+inches at the top. This will enable you to rise or fall the glass
+according to the quantity of air necessary to be admitted.
+
+Before placing the vine outside the glasses, it will be necessary to
+admit a larger portion of air, both night and day, for three or four
+days, in order to harden the plants; then mulch the bed all over with
+litter, which will cause the fruit to be kept clean, and the roots
+moist, an essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers.
+
+Though moisture is so extremely necessary, yet at all times in the
+application of water you must be regulated by the temperature of the
+season. If the weather is hot and dry when they come into full bearing,
+from three to four gallons of water will be required to each glass every
+two or three days, if the soil is light, but if of a strong loamy
+nature, less will be sufficient.
+
+Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and place four half bricks,
+that is, one to each corner, under the frame of the glass; or another
+method may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south by means of a
+piece of stick, about the thickness of a broom-stick, a foot in length,
+with three notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the purpose of
+resting the glass upon. This plan is far preferable to the former, in
+materially accelerating the growth of the fruit, by preventing too
+great a current of air; besides possessing the advantage of easier
+access to the plants, when there is a necessity for examining them. It
+is, however, requisite when this method is adopted, that the ridges
+should always front the south.
+
+If the above directions are strictly attended to, and the season is in
+any degree favorable, a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected.
+
+
+
+
+DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR
+
+Early and Late Cucumbers.
+
+
+_Three-light Boxes for October sowing._
+
+The boxes should be made of good seasoned deal, one inch and a half
+thick, ten feet seven inches long, four feet three inches wide, and one
+foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. The
+bars to be three inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches in
+height, and one slip at each end. The bars to be fluted on each side of
+the slips, with oak corners, five inches wide.
+
+The lights to be four feet three inches and a half long, three feet six
+inches wide, and the back rail two inches and three quarters wide; the
+front to be three inches, and the sides two inches and a half; with
+three bars, rounded off to a point inside, three quarters of an inch
+wide. To be made of good seasoned deal, and to have horns both in the
+back and front. The squares must be formed of strong crown glass, leaded
+and cemented; let there be five in length, the one in front being five
+inches long. A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, under the
+lead of each light, which must also have iron handles.
+
+
+_One-light Box for October sowing._
+
+This must be in length four feet eight inches, three feet seven inches
+wide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the
+front.
+
+The lights to be half an inch longer than the box; and in all other
+respects the same as those before described.
+
+
+_For January sowing._
+
+The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, four feet eight inches wide,
+one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front.
+The bars and slips the same as for October.
+
+The lights to be four feet eight inches and a half long, and three feet
+six inches wide, with four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied,
+and a small piece of lead across to every square. In other respects to
+be the same as those for October.
+
+
+_For Spring sowing._
+
+The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at the back, and eight inches
+in the front. In other respects, the boxes as well as the lights for
+spring sowing, must be the same as those directed for the January
+seed-bed.
+
+Both boxes and lights should have three coats of paint, white inside,
+and a dark lead colour on the outside.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE CULTURE OF THE EARLY AND LATE
+
+Melon.
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF
+
+Early and Late Melons.
+
+
+For early melons have three loads of dung for a three-light box; but if
+you have previously grown early cucumbers, the old linings will be
+useful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion of one half of fresh
+dung with it. This, in fact, will be better than all fresh, as it
+requires only once turning, whereas new dung should be turned twice. In
+gentlemen's gardens there is generally an abundance of leaves, and
+sometimes a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, leaves, mixed with
+an equal proportion of dung, may be used very successfully for the
+early melon; and for the late one all leaves, from trees or shrubs, will
+answer the purpose, particularly where there are brick pits.
+
+Let the dung be put together for a week, and lay the same time before it
+is turned. Be careful that the bottom is dry where the bed is built;
+raise it with mould or road sand to the height of six or eight inches,
+and allow the bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and wider than
+the box, so that when the bed is made, it may be drawn up in a gradual
+manner to about three or four inches wider than the box, observing at
+the same time to beat it well down with a fork. Let it be about three
+feet nine inches at the back by three feet six inches in the front;
+should there, however, happen to be a scarcity of dung, a foot of
+strawberry or asparagus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed,
+some of each, may be added at the bottom of the bed.
+
+If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it may be properly
+moistened; and after the bed is formed, let it be again watered, as the
+plants will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the proper effect,
+if the bed is kept too dry.
+
+The bed should be made three weeks or a month before the plants are put
+into it, and must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged out. When
+the bed is in a proper condition, hollow it out in the middle to the
+depth of four inches, and put a large barrow-fall of mould to each hill,
+pressing it down close with the hand about a foot deep.
+
+The day before you intend to ridge out, put a pot of plants in the bed,
+to prove whether it is sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case,
+and the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to a light; but if
+small two will be sufficient.
+
+The proper time to sow the seed for an early crop is about the middle of
+January; and the early cucumber bed will do very well for the purpose.
+Those sown at this time will be fit to cut in the first or second week
+of May; but if there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, the
+beginning of February is a preferable season to sow, when they will be
+ready to cut by the latter end of May or the beginning of June.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an early crop. Let them be
+sown in leaf mould, about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight size
+pot; immediately apply water, and plunge the pots in a good sharp heat.
+As soon as the seed makes its appearance, which will be in the course of
+about three days, if it is good, un-plunge the pots and give them a
+little water. In two or three days more they will be fit to pot off,
+which ought always to be done when about a week old, as they strike much
+more freely when potted off young. Let the soil for potting off the
+plants be half leaf mould, and half light loam or bog earth.
+
+The best season to sow for a second crop is the beginning of March, and
+well calculated for the Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock,
+Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly the same description,
+though under different names, which they have derived from those
+gardeners who have cultivated them by impregnating one with the other.
+It is by no means, however, advisable to sow the Black Rock before the
+latter end of March, as it is only calculated for a late melon, and
+should be grown in large boxes, two plants to a light. This, though a
+fine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not suit those whose object
+is to produce a large quantity; for, by attempting to grow more than two
+in a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to any degree of
+perfection.[7]
+
+The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with the Author, who has
+produced fruit of this kind upwards of seven pounds in weight, though
+the common size varies from three to five. This description of melon is
+not generally known, although it is a fine looking and excellent
+flavoured fruit: it possesses a thin skin, orange-coloured flesh, and
+the rind is very dark.
+
+The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest flavoured melon that can be
+produced, though small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight of
+three pounds, and commonly from one to two. The flesh is of a deep
+scarlet colour, and it is rather inclined to rock.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive melon in bearing; but in
+order to obtain them good flavoured no more than one fruit must be
+suffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the lights are large,
+when two may be allowed, that is, six in a light; but if, however, the
+plants are confined to one fruit, a second crop may be obtained.
+
+The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in appearance, and much
+approved of by some gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for a
+rock; but it will not, however, keep long, soon loses its flavour, and
+the colour changes very yellow; it is also extremely tender in its
+growth, and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock; neither is it
+so handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, nor does it ripen any sooner.
+
+The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, with a thin skin, but
+generally small in its dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort of
+this kind that will grow from three to five pounds in weight.
+
+The Black Rock melon should not be sown later than the latter end of
+May; the Stroud and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the tenth of
+June; and the Early Cantaloupe about the twentieth of June.
+
+In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in having a good depth of
+earth, from a foot to eighteen inches will be necessary. When the hills
+are made for the very early melons, one large barrow-full of mould will
+be sufficient, which must be pressed down close with the hand. Those
+that are sown in March will require one barrow-full and a half, and
+those afterwards two. In applying this mould, put one barrow-full in
+first, and tread it down; then add the remainder, and press it close
+down with the hand. Procure some good holding loam of a greasy nature,
+such as is generally found in the marshes, which is the most preferable
+kind of soil for melons, and let it be well weathered before using. It
+ought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. Mix this with a sixth
+proportion of good rotten dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned over
+two or three different times, that it may be properly sweetened and
+incorporated together; taking care, however, that it is not broken too
+fine.
+
+The mould intended for the hills of the first crop should be lighter
+than for those grown afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixed
+with a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung; or an equal proportion
+of stiff loam and leaf mould. As mould is added after the plants have
+been ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take particular care
+that the roots are never exposed to the sun, but as soon as they make
+their appearance through the hills, increase the mould, in the
+proportion of a barrow-full to each hill for the early melon, and two,
+or even more, to the later one.
+
+In watering the plants, as the season advances, you must be regulated by
+the composition of the soil, and the temperature of the weather. If the
+soil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity that should be
+applied to light mould. If the weather is warm, much water is necessary,
+but if cold very little should be given, as too much moisture at that
+time will create the canker.
+
+Heat being materially requisite for preserving the growth of the melon,
+great care must be taken in keeping the bed well supplied with linings,
+which must be added until the weather becomes fine and settled; they
+will generally be required until the beginning of June; but if the
+season is even then cold, it is better to continue them longer.
+
+In covering up the early plants, at the first ridging out, a single or
+double mat will be sufficient; after that add a little hay, and increase
+it if the weather is cold. This should be continued until the middle of
+June, or later, if the season is unfavourable.
+
+Many gardeners being unacquainted with the proper mode of training and
+topping the melon, and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set the
+fruit, the Author will here give the method always pursued by himself,
+which, if strictly observed, will be found to be attended with far less
+trouble, and more certain in its effect than the plan generally adopted.
+
+When the plants are potted off, top them at the second break; that is,
+let them grow to two leaves; then take out the break, which in some
+kinds is in the centre, and in others in the second leaf. If you require
+the fruit very fine, two plants will be sufficient in a light; but
+should there be no particular necessity in that respect, and the lights
+are sufficiently capacious, three may be matured extremely well.
+
+Have four runners to a light; that is, if two plants, two runners to
+each; but if three, two runners to one plant, and one to each of the
+other two. If the lights are large, they may be suffered to run to eight
+joints; but if, on the contrary, the lights are confined, six will be
+sufficient; and all other breaks that come out at home, with the first
+break that issues from the runners, should be effectually taken away, in
+order that the others may derive strength and nourishment. As soon as
+they make the first breaks from the runners, which by some are
+denominated cross bars, top them at the first joint, and in most sorts
+they will generally show fruit; but if it should so happen that this
+does not succeed, top them again, when they are certain of showing fruit
+at the second.
+
+If they are impregnated in the same manner as prescribed in the
+directions for the cucumber, there will be no difficulty in setting the
+fruit, which will also show much bolder, and possess greater strength
+when topped in close.
+
+Every description of melon will be brought to a greater degree of
+perfection, by being suffered to swell off on the first shows, which can
+alone be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if this is particularly
+attended to, no apprehension need be entertained of the fruit being
+small or delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, so it
+decreases the strength and vigour of the plants.
+
+Great care is necessary in watering the plants: when they are young, it
+should be applied with a rose; but as soon as the runners are extended
+all over the bed, that may be dispensed with. If the weather is dull, a
+small quantity of water will be sufficient; and if very fine, more must
+be applied carefully without a rose, which will be found beneficial in
+causing them to set more freely.[8] An insufficiency of moisture is an
+error too prevalent with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, and
+indeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in weight and flavour, may
+be greatly attributed to want of judgment in this particular; for if the
+plants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of which has been before
+stated, they are of course more open to the air, and the sun has greater
+power in drying up the soil, consequently the plants will become
+exhausted, and the fruit will ripen before its growth is properly
+matured.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full time, will be five weeks
+from the period of setting before it ripens; the Stroud about six; the
+Scarlet seven; and the Black Rock upwards of seven; there will, however,
+be some difference between those forced early with bottom heat, and
+those grown late; the early ones coming to perfection three or four
+days, or even a week before the other.
+
+The proper time to sow for under-ground melons, that is, such as are
+grown without linings, is from the twenty-fifth of March to the
+twentieth of June; observing, at the same time, that those which are
+sown in March will require stronger beds than those that are set three
+weeks or a month later.
+
+The beds for the first should be formed of good dung, well worked, and
+three feet in height; whereas the latter will only require two feet. Dig
+a trench the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep; and if the
+soil is a strong good holding loam, it will answer the purpose for any
+description of rock melon; they requiring a strong soil to bring them to
+perfection; a light loam, however, may be used for the Early Cantaloupe.
+
+As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down well, make it even, and let
+it have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then put on
+the boxes and lights, and when the heat rises to its proper height,
+which will be in the course of three or four days, put the mould in for
+the hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a light, levelling
+it about an inch all over the bed, for the purpose of preventing the
+rank steam from injuring the plants. On the following day they may be
+ridged out, and watered, being very particular in sprinkling the bed
+regularly over. Admit air freely both night and day at first, until the
+bed is purified, and becomes perfectly sweet; this will be the case in
+about a week, when they may be shut down at night. Let the topping and
+training be the same as directed for the early ones.
+
+If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a bank may be made on
+the outside, at the back and front, about a foot or eighteen inches
+wide, which will prove a great support to the fruit, and cause them to
+grow much larger and finer; but if the soil is light and rich, by no
+means make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as mould of that
+description is not at all adapted for the production of fine melons. The
+only one that will in any degree thrive in light rich soil is the Early
+Cantaloupe; but any kind of the rock description will never come to
+perfection.
+
+It is here necessary to observe that it is impossible ever to obtain
+fine or good flavoured fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on a
+plant at a time, as that support which is essential and ought to be
+directed to one object, by becoming divided, is insufficient for the
+perfection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, and renders it of
+little or no value.
+
+Many horticulturists experience much difficulty from the effects of the
+red spider and canker in melons; the former being caused by keeping them
+too dry, and the latter arising from too much moisture. In order to
+avoid these evils, the following directions should be particularly
+attended to. When the weather is hot, or there is a strong bottom heat,
+it is necessary to be free in the application of water, especially round
+the sides of the boxes; for when the plants cover the bed, it will not
+be requisite to give any in the centre over the stems.
+
+When the plants cover the surface of the bed always water without a
+rose, observing that it should be invariably done in the morning, and
+when the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines to get dry before
+night, which will not be the case, if it is applied in the afternoon;
+and should the following day be dull, and perhaps continue so for three
+or four, the vines will remain wet, and then there is every probability
+of their getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from a cold chill,
+created by unnecessary moisture.
+
+The canker is a very destructive disorder, and extremely difficult to
+eradicate. The only means that can be adopted, or likely to prove
+beneficial, is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to give a good
+heat; being careful, at the same time, not to run into the other
+extreme, and create the red spider. If, however, the plants are kept
+thin of vine, and water is applied in the manner before directed, no
+fear need be entertained of either of the above disorders.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] The Author has in his possession a sort of this description, from
+which he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds in weight.
+
+[8] As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, it will be
+necessary to shade them from the extreme violence of the heat. Mats are
+generally made use of, but the Author considers evergreen boughs far
+preferable, as the former entirely precludes the sun, whereas the latter
+is beneficial to the plants, in admitting it partially. This will be
+generally requisite from about ten until two; and at that time, in
+proportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air must be
+admitted.
+
+
+
+
+DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR
+
+Early and late Melons.
+
+
+_Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons._
+
+The wood-work should be of the same thickness, as those directed for
+early cucumbers, and the boxes of the same length; but two feet deep at
+the back, five feet wide, and one foot three inches in the front.
+
+
+_For Melons sown from the middle of February until the latter end of
+March, grown with linings._
+
+The boxes and lights to be the same in thickness, length, and depth;
+five feet six inches wide; four bars to a light, with a small iron bar
+across the middle, in the inside, under the lead-work.
+
+
+_For late Melons, grown without Linings._
+
+The boxes and lights to be the same as those before described, with the
+exception of being eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven inches in
+the front.
+
+
+_Brick Pits._
+
+Let these be formed of nine inch brick-work, sunk one foot under-ground;
+five feet high at the back, by three feet six inches in the front, from
+the bottom; and six feet wide in the inside. Let the lights be three
+feet eight inches wide.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON ***
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Art of Promoting the Growth of the Cucumber and Melon, by Thomas Watkins.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
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+         margin-right: 10%;
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+
+    .pagenum  { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */
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+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The art of promoting the growth of the cucumber and melon
+       in a series of directions for the best means to be adopted
+              in bringing them to a complete state of perfection
+
+Author: Thomas Watkins
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2008 [EBook #27548]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1>THE ART</h1>
+
+<h3>OF</h3>
+
+<h2>PROMOTING THE GROWTH</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>Cucumber and Melon;</h1>
+
+<h3>IN</h3>
+
+<h2>A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS</h2>
+
+<h3>FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED IN BRINGING THEM TO</h3>
+
+<h2><i>A COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION</i>.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>THOMAS WATKINS,</h2>
+
+<h3><i>Many Years Foreman with Mr. Grange, of Hackney, and now with W. Knight,
+Esq. Highbury Park.</i></h3>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h3>LONDON:</h3>
+
+<h3>PUBLISHED BY HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET;</h3>
+
+<h4>AND SOLD BY GRANGE AND DULLY, FRUITERERS, COVENT GARDEN; MASON AND SON,
+SEEDSMEN, FLEET STREET; WARNER AND CO. SEEDSMEN, CORNHILL; GARRAWAY,
+NURSERY AND SEEDSMAN, NEAR MARYLAND POINT, STRATFORD, ESSEX; AND BY THE
+AUTHOR, AT HIGHBURY.</h4>
+
+<h4>1824.</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1>THE ART</h1>
+
+<h3>OF</h3>
+
+<h2>PROMOTING THE GROWTH</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>Cucumber and Melon;</h1>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>ADVERTISEMENT.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>The author begs to inform the purchasers of this work, that it was
+originally his intention to have given an engraving of the particular
+description of cucumber and melon, which he has been so successful in
+bringing to a state of perfection; and, in fact, a plate was executed,
+at a considerable expense, for that purpose. Finding, however, that
+although accurate in its representation of <i>fine</i> fruit, it did not
+pourtray the difference, nor convey the precise idea of those qualities
+which constitute the superiority of the author's; and aware that such
+would have been obvious to every experienced gardener, the design was
+necessarily abandoned, trusting, that as it was merely intended for an
+embellishment, its deficiency will not render the work less valuable to
+the profession.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<table class="tbrk" summary="CONTENTS">
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>The Cucumber Seed-bed for October</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_1">Page 1</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>The Fruiting Frame for early Plants</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>The Seed-bed for January</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>On the Culture of the late Cucumber</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>On the Hand-glass Cucumber</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and late Cucumbers</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>On the Culture of early and late Melons</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td><b>Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto</b></td>
+    <td class="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>Preface.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>Having, when young, imbibed a particular inclination to study the
+culture of the cucumber and melon, under the direction of my father,
+whose character as an early framer was in high repute, I assiduously
+tried every experiment which was calculated to improve upon his system,
+by bringing them to a more complete state of perfection.</p>
+
+<p>In marking the progress of their growth, I usually committed to writing
+those plans which I had found to have been productive of beneficial
+effects. The result of these remarks has proved the compilation of the
+following treatise, undertaken at the request of several
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>horticulturists, who have expressed their desire to become acquainted
+with the process of my mode of cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>Considering it superfluous to enlarge this work by unnecessary or
+controversial observations, I have confined myself entirely to those
+directions, upon which I have uniformly acted; and have endeavoured to
+reduce them into as plain and simple a form as possible; at the same
+time observing to omit nothing which can be of utility in this difficult
+and hitherto imperfectly understood branch of horticulture.</p>
+
+<p>Several gardeners, who are now very eminent in their profession, have
+placed themselves under my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectly
+satisfied that the instruction they received, was fully adequate to the
+compensation required; and perfectly convinced them of the superiority<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>
+of my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, that the advice given to
+such practitioners is contained in the following directions.</p>
+
+<p>My principal object in the different experiments I have tried, has
+always been to discover an easy, as well as a certain method of maturing
+these delicate plants, and, in consequence, have avoided, as much as
+possible, any artificial means that might be attended with difficulty or
+expense.</p>
+
+<p>The only writer I know upon this subject, with the exception of
+Abercrombie, whose system is now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phail,
+gardener to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published a treatise in the
+year 1795, in which he strenuously recommends brick pits for cucumbers
+and melons, as far superior to the dung bed. It will be obvious,
+however, to every person who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span> has perused that work, that the plan was
+adopted merely through deficiency of knowledge in the proper management
+of the dung bed; for Mr. M'Phail asserts, that upon first attempting to
+produce early cucumbers in Lord Hawkesbury's garden, he completely
+failed, and was, in consequence, induced to apply to some horticulturist
+in the neighbourhood, to whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas for his
+instruction. The principal thing he appears to have been taught, was to
+keep the burning heat of the dung about the roots of the plants down by
+the continual application of water into the bed; which, however, he
+found insufficient to preserve them in a thriving state, throughout the
+winter months. This caused him to assert that it was out of the power of
+any person to keep a dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable to
+rear them at that time of the year. To this I have only to observe, that
+the following<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span> directions will prove a contradiction; for if they are
+strictly attended to, no fear need be entertained of their vigorous
+growth, either from the premature season, or the inclemency of the
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>In December and January, although their health is certain, I must allow
+that they do not grow so fast as in other months; and this is the
+particular time when difficulty is experienced by those who are
+unacquainted with the proper means to be adopted, although, perhaps,
+their efforts may have been attended with far more trouble than the
+rules here prescribed.</p>
+
+<p>The dung bed is certainly of the greatest importance both in the culture
+of the cucumber and melon; and want of knowledge in the management is
+generally the cause of the loss of the plants in the winter season, by
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span> settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which cannot be removed
+without assistance from the sun: particular attention, therefore, to the
+directions given upon that point is highly necessary; indeed, it cannot
+be too strongly impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that upon
+this greatly depends the success of his endeavours to mature them to any
+degree of perfection.</p>
+
+<p>In the remarks upon preserving the plants from a cold moisture, in the
+most inclement weather, I have called to assistance what may be
+technically termed an artificial sun; and as this most material point
+may be perfectly understood I shall here describe it more particularly.</p>
+
+<p>Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly the top of the box with hay,
+straw, or any kind of sweet litter; observing that hay, however<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span>
+damaged, is certainly preferable; this will have the desired effect in
+promoting a top heat, and obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, in
+keeping the plants perfectly dry.</p>
+
+<p>To those who are unacquainted with the management of a dung bed, a brick
+one certainly appears more advantageous, in being attended with less
+trouble to the horticulturist, though infinitely with more expense, both
+in the building and consumption of dung: this, however, is a mistaken
+idea, for nothing certainly can be more congenial to the growth of
+either the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat: this essential
+requisite, which may always be obtained by the process hereafter
+described, can be but partially promoted in brick pits; for although
+water, in its necessary application, may create a steam heat, it soon
+evaporates; and the heat of the linings having to pass through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span> the
+bricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite incapable of affording any
+nourishment to the plants.</p>
+
+<p>The limited space in which the plants are confined in their growth by
+brick pits, is also a very great objection to this mode of culture. That
+they derive their chief support from the extremity of the roots must be
+obvious to every one, and if these are concentred in the middle of the
+bed, and thereby rendered incapable of expanding over the flues as in
+the dung bed, they must be certainly deprived of that vigour which is
+natural to them from a free and uninterrupted growth, and where they
+experience the whole of the benefit that can arise from the bed in which
+they are placed. In short, the dung bed in so many instances is superior
+to brick pits, that competition in the culture of either the cucumber or
+melon by the latter plan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</a></span> would be entirely useless; for whether in the
+vigour of the plants, quickness of growth, or production of fine fruit,
+the dung bed, systematically attended to, as described in this treatise,
+will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive means are not always
+attended with the most beneficial results.</p>
+
+<p>In the following directions, the first thing I have taken notice of, is
+the early cucumber, as being the most difficult, and consequently the
+most particular in its process of culture. Strict attention and
+perseverance in the method prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to a
+complete state of perfection within the time limited.</p>
+
+<p>Secondly&mdash;The necessary directions will be found for promoting the
+growth of such cucumbers as are sown in January. It is here necessary to
+observe, that this is the most preferable season<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</a></span> for those which are
+not required so very early; as the increasing temperature of the weather
+in the course of their growth, affords facility for their being matured
+with a greater degree of strength.</p>
+
+<p>Thirdly&mdash;The method of bringing to perfection the late frame, or spring
+sown cucumber. The directions upon this head will be found extremely
+useful, both to young practitioners, and those who are not professed
+horticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate their own gardens, and are
+desirous of possessing a cucumber bed, will find the information here
+given of great utility.</p>
+
+<p>Fourthly&mdash;In treating upon the process necessary for the management of
+the hand-glass cucumber in the summer months, I have offered an improved
+system, which will be found<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span> of considerable importance to gardeners in
+general in enhancing the value of their fruit, by rendering it much
+superior to that produced by the common method.</p>
+
+<p>The directions I have given with regard to the melon, will be found to
+explode all that difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined exists
+in the production of this choice fruit. The description given of my
+method of culture, will at once evince the simplicity of its process,
+and show the certainty of its result.</p>
+
+<p>Having explained the motives which induced me to undertake this work, I
+have only to observe, that the system has been productive of great
+advantage to myself, in enabling me to supersede my contemporaries in
+several annual shows, by obtaining the prize; and, to render this
+effective to every person, the principal thing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span> required, as before
+mentioned, is attention and perseverance in the rules prescribed; and
+those who adopt them will, I am confident, acknowledge their utility,
+and be sensible of the benefits that must eventually arise from a
+practical improvement in this particular branch of horticulture.</p>
+
+<p class="right">THOMAS WATKINS.</p>
+
+<p>Highbury Park, January 30, 1824.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1>THE ART</h1>
+
+<h3>OF</h3>
+
+<h2>PROMOTING THE GROWTH</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>Cucumber and Melon;</h1>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h3>ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS.</h3>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h2>THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER:</h2>
+
+<h3><i>To be sown from the 10th to the 20th of the Month.</i></h3>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows-full, will be sufficient for a
+one-light box, and let it be put together at least three weeks before
+making the bed, in a round or square heap, being particular in well
+treading it down. If the dung is dry, it will be necessary to give it
+some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> water; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. Let it lay in
+this state a week, and then turn it, shaking the outsides of the heap
+into the middle, and give it some more water. In doing this, it is
+requisite that the heap should be well shook to pieces, and trod down.
+Let it lay another week, at the expiration of which, observe the same
+directions as before given, applying the quantity of water in proportion
+to the dry nature of the dung. At the end of the third week, it will be
+in a proper condition to make use of, as by that time it will be
+sufficiently moist and hot, the necessary state in which it should be,
+before the formation of the bed.</p>
+
+<p>As much depends upon the nature of the dung, and its proper condition,
+great attention should be paid, and some judgment exercised in the means
+best calculated to prepare it for a state of fermentation. The most
+certain method that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a beneficial
+result is, in the summer months, to pack the dung you intend to make use
+of for the October seed-bed as close together as possible,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> taking care
+to keep it dry, that it may retain its virtue. This sort of dung is far
+preferable to that newly made, being less rank and not so liable to
+burn; and when under a state of preparation, by turning and moistening,
+as before described, it will be in a much better condition than any that
+can be fresh procured.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>Before forming the bed, let the bottom be made in the following
+manner:&mdash;Raise the ground about six inches above the level with road
+sand or mould, upon the top of which place some fagots, or other kind of
+wood, to the height of a foot, in order that the bed may be well
+drained. If there is an insufficiency of dung, you can add a foot of dry
+rubbish, such as strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose stuff.
+Let the bottom be extended nine inches wider than the frame you intend
+to make use of, the height of the bed being at the back four feet, and
+in the front, three feet nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> inches. Beat it well down with a fork;
+then put the box on, and fill it three parts full with the shovellings
+of the dung that is left; after which, place on the light, and let it be
+close shut down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, admit air by
+opening the frame about an inch: when it increases, so as to become very
+hot, admit more air, by extending the aperture to two inches. It must
+remain in this situation about a week; then fork it up above a foot
+deep, and if caked together, or in the least dry, give it more water.
+From two to four pots is generally sufficient; but the quantity must be
+regulated by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to observe, that
+moisture is of most important consequence to the seed-bed, and nothing
+is so well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from impurity as water.</p>
+
+<p>In two or three days after forking up, it will be necessary to take off
+the box and light, for the purpose of making the bed even. In doing
+this, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, and shake it to pieces;
+then put on the box<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> again, and give the light one or two inches of air,
+according to the temperature of the weather.</p>
+
+<p>It will now be necessary to wrap up the bed with straw, pea-halm, or
+hay, about eighteen inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in gradually
+to a foot wide, within three inches of the top of the box.</p>
+
+<p>In three or four days stir up the bed in the same manner as before,
+observing that if it be in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat,
+to give it three or more pots of water, as shall seem necessary. It must
+be stirred up again in three or four days, and beat down gently with a
+fork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the old tan or mould in
+which the seed is to be deposited.</p>
+
+<p>A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or three weeks before the seed
+is attempted to be sown; as many evil consequences are to be apprehended
+from sowing it before, from the firing of the bed, or the impure nature
+of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the plants will not
+be brought to that degree of perfection, as might reasonably be expected
+from a bed in its proper heat and condition.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>After the bed has been laid and dealt with according to the foregoing
+directions, spread two barrows-full of old tan or light mould all over
+the surface, having it a little deeper in the middle than at the sides.
+Old tan is certainly more preferable than mould, though either will
+answer the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day before the seed
+is sown, and cover the bed up with a single mat at night, taking care to
+shut it down until the morning, that the heat may be properly drawn up.
+Take some forty-eight size<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould with
+a sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. The sifting mould to a
+fine degree is an error too prevalent in horticulture, and ought
+particularly to be avoided, from its great tendency to bind.</p>
+
+<p>It is very requisite that a cucumber should have a good digestion, and
+in order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes at
+the bottom of the pots with broken pieces; then strew a little of the
+rough siftings of the mould over it, and fill them up within half an
+inch of the brim with the prepared mould and sand. Shake it down a
+little, and sow the seed<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, just
+covering it with a little mould; then give it a small quantity of water,
+which for the first time may be cold, but great care must be taken in
+the subsequent waterings, that it be chilled to about the warmth of new
+milk.</p>
+
+<p>The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the bed up to the rim, and give
+them about half an inch of air. At night they must be covered with a
+single mat, taking care to turn it up at at the back, that the steam may
+pass freely from the bed. Let the air be continued both night and day.</p>
+
+<p>After the seed has been sown three days, it will be up, when the pots
+must be unplunged, placed on the surface, and some water given to them.
+They will now require upwards of an inch of air, both night and day,
+which will cause the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and prevent
+their drawing. In about three days give them some more water in the
+morning, and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p><p>Plants should be always potted off when young, as they strike more
+freely in the pots; and, in doing this, the following directions should
+be attended to.</p>
+
+<p>Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day before potting off, and let
+it be of the same description as that in which the seed was sown. If the
+pots are old and dirty, wash them, and be careful in having them
+properly dried before they are made use of. Take some old rotten turf,
+or a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, and place a small
+quantity over the tile at the bottom of every pot; then fill them about
+one-third full, put three plants in each, and cover the roots about an
+inch. The pots must not be plunged, but placed on the surface, and some
+water given them with a fine rose.</p>
+
+<p>It is necessary to have a small pot on purpose to water the plants,
+which will contain about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, which
+is much better calculated to water the plants regularly than a spreading
+one.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p><p>Be particular in watering them regular, which will be requisite every
+two or three days, for the space of three weeks or a month at latest,
+when they will be in a proper condition to ridge out.</p>
+
+<p>After the plants have been potted three days, add a little mould to
+them, and repeat it every two or three days, for about a fortnight,
+until the pot is quite filled. Much attention should be paid to this
+method of putting in the mould, which experience has convinced the
+author is far superior to the usual practice of filling the pots in the
+first instance up to the seed-leaves of the plants. By the gradual mode
+of filling, the plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain in its
+growth of being dwarfish and strong, which cannot be insured by the
+common method, as it tends considerably to weaken the plant, and renders
+it very liable to fog off, before taking root. By potting them low, and
+only just covering the roots at first, the stems of the plants become
+hardened, and strike very freely upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumber
+always decay when forced with a strong bottom heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p><p>It will be necessary, after the plants have been potted about a week,
+to examine the bed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there is any
+fire heat. If such should be found to be the case, and the directions as
+before given with regard to moisture have been strictly attended to, it
+can only exist in the tan, which must immediately be supplied with
+water, and, the day following, stirred well up together and levelled,
+placing the pots upon the surface. In another week again examine the
+bed, and if any fire heat still remains, attend to it as above; if not,
+stir up the tan, and plunge the pots about half way down; being,
+however, guided in this by the temperature of the bed, as plants sown in
+October do not require so much heat as those in the three following
+months.</p>
+
+<p>Observe, when the plants have been potted two or three days, to stir the
+mould in the pots, round the plants, and likewise the tan, with a
+sharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to freshen the plants, and
+prevent any thing of a mouldy nature from injuring them.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p><p>As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, top them, by taking out
+the break that appears next, which may be easily done with the thumb and
+finger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little more than a fortnight, they
+will be in a fit state to top down; and in three weeks from the time of
+sowing, ready to ridge out.</p>
+
+<p>At this time of the year, the bed will not require any lining; but
+observe, that as the wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increase
+it, pressing it down close to the box, and keeping it within one-third
+of the top.</p>
+
+<p>If the plants are not ridged out when three weeks old, plunge them up to
+the rim, until the fruiting frame is ready for their reception, which
+ought to be at the latest when they are a month or five weeks old. If it
+should happen, however, that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by no
+means ridge them out until it is in a proper condition. After they are a
+month old, increase the lining at the back and front, about four or five
+barrows-full each, applying it in the following<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> manner:&mdash;Remove the
+wrapping down to the bottom, and extend the dung to the width of two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed; drawing it in to about
+eighteen inches at the top. Cover the lining with the litter four inches
+wide from the bottom, and three parts as high as the box, being
+particularly careful in stopping up the inside, by pressing the tan
+close to the box, about three inches above the bottom. As the lining
+sinks, add a little wrapping to the top, formed of hay, or old litter
+that is quite sweet.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its
+virtue from six to nine months.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The heat required in October sown plants, while growing in
+the seed-bed, is from sixty-five to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit's
+thermometer. Should that temperature be exceeded in this season, they
+will draw up very long: but after being ridged out, more heat will
+become necessary; that is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees: and
+the same is to be observed with young plants raised in the three
+following months.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is
+three or four years old, imagining that new will grow too vigorous, and
+not show fruit or set so well; but in this they are much mistaken, the
+Author knowing, from experience, that new seed, or at least not more
+than two years old, is the best calculated for bringing to perfection
+both the cucumber and melon; possessing the advantage of a greater
+freedom in growth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old
+seed.</p></div></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>THE FRUITING FRAME,</h2>
+
+<h3><i>For Plants sown in October, November, December, and January.</i></h3>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a three-light box, and the
+same in proportion to the number you intend to make use of. Let it be
+put together a fortnight before the seed is sown; be very particular in
+giving it plenty of water, and pack it close together. After it has laid
+a week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with water. Let it continue in
+this state another week, when the same directions as before given must
+be observed; and, in a week more, the bed will be in a fit condition to
+make up.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom must be prepared in the same manner as directed for the
+seed-bed; then form the bed of dung four feet three inches at the back,
+by four feet in the front, allowing for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> cavity of about ten inches
+between each box; then place the boxes on, and put the shovellings
+inside, in the proportion of two or three barrows-full to a light. In
+forming the bed, it is the best plan to make it in layers of about a
+foot each, which will cause the dung to be much better mixed, than if
+all finished at first, of an equal height. Be very particular in
+separating the dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards beating it
+well down with a fork.</p>
+
+<p>After the bed has been thus prepared, put the lights on, and shut them
+down close until the heat begins to rise. When such is the case, give
+them about an inch of air; and in three or four days wrap the bed all
+round with dry litter or useless hay, eighteen inches wide from the
+bottom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the bed, which will
+greatly tend to promote a regular heat. As the careful wrapping up of
+the bed is an essential requisite, means must be taken to keep it close,
+and protect it from any injury that may arise in consequence of
+tempestuous weather, this may be accomplished by means of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> sharp-pointed
+sticks, with hooks in the form of a peg, and about the size and length
+of a broom-stick. Thrust these through the litter into the bed, about
+half way up, one to each light, at the back and front, and two at each
+end.</p>
+
+<p>After the bed has been made about a week or ten days, take off the boxes
+and lights, in order to level it, and let it have from four to six
+inches fall from the back to the front; in this, however, you must be in
+some degree guided by the form of the boxes, which it is necessary
+should have a good fall, that the plants may derive benefit from the
+sun; then fork up the bed about a foot deep, and again place on the
+boxes and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both night and day.
+In about four or five days it will be necessary to again fork it up, and
+give it some water, in the proportion of two pots to a light. This must
+be repeated every two or three days, until the bed is perfectly sweet,
+which is usually the case in three or four weeks, applying water during
+that time, according to the state of the bed.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p><p>When you find that the bed is properly purified, put in the sifted leaf
+mould. A three-light box will require a large barrow-full; the quantity
+for a one-light being about four shovels. After this, add to the
+wrapping some sweet litter or hay, increasing it to nearly the top of
+the boxes, and apply about two pots of water to each of the cavities,
+taking care to fill them up to nearly the tops of the boxes, with short
+sweet mulshy litter. This is a point but very little known, yet of the
+greatest importance in the culture of cucumbers; for when the weather
+begins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and the boxes are placed
+close together, in the usual manner, the outsides are very liable to
+become damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is certain of doing the
+plants material injury.</p>
+
+<p>Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three-light box, and at night
+admit nearly two inches of air, covering them with a single mat; and if
+on the following day the plants look well, they may be safely ridged
+out.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p><p>It is requisite that both the boxes and lights should be painted every
+year, at least a month before they are wanted for use; but if this
+cannot be conveniently done, be particular in washing them with boiling
+water, in which some unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in some
+measure answer the purpose of paint in effectually destroying the
+vermin, or the eggs which may have been deposited in the crevices of the
+wood.</p>
+
+<p>After the plants are ridged out, wash them every morning, on the
+outside, and about once a week in the inside, which will tend to reflect
+the light, and cause them to thrive much better. When you wash the
+outside, push them down about two or three inches, which will prevent
+the water from perishing the lining at the side of the boxes. If the
+plants have received no injury, and are able to bear the heat of the
+bed, ridge them out, letting the hills be about nine inches high,
+covering the roots about an inch round, and being an inch higher than
+they were when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, rake it with
+the hand all over the bed; then water the plants, taking care, at the
+same time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the surface. Close them
+down for the space of ten minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If the
+weather is mild, in an hour it may be increased to two inches, and a
+single mat only will be requisite at night. If, however, the weather is
+windy, cover them at night with a double mat, or a single one and a
+little hay.</p>
+
+<p>Be very particular in allowing them plenty of air, especially of a
+night, taking care, however, to regulate this by the temperature of the
+weather. If there is much wind, they will of course require less air;
+but, at all events, it is better to give too much than otherwise, more
+particularly at the first ridging out, as the weather at this season
+being frequently subject to sudden changes, which, should it occur in
+the night, and the plants are too confined, or the least rankness
+existing in the bed, they are sure to experience material injury, which,
+at this time of year, it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> very improbable they will ever recover; or,
+if with extreme difficulty, they should be brought round, they can never
+be expected to grow to any degree of perfection.</p>
+
+<p>Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to the depth of about nine
+inches, with a hand-fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, immediately
+give water to the part affected, that being the only effectual remedy
+that can be applied. Be careful in forking close to the bottom of the
+hills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in this place, bore
+several holes at the bottom of the hills, and apply plenty of water.</p>
+
+<p>Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or eight inches long, for the
+purpose of stirring the mould round the plants, in a similar manner to
+hoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much refresh the plants, and
+should be attended to while they are young, for at least two months the
+day after they have been watered.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the roots begin to be visible<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> through the hills, add three
+shovels-full of unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being very
+careful not to mould too freely, until the beginning of February, as the
+plants from the middle of December to the middle of January, lie in a
+dormant state; consequently, too large a quantity of mould at this
+season, will be attended with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, and
+preventing the heat of the bed rising in a free and proper manner.</p>
+
+<p>This being the season when plants are most exposed to injury, and are
+frequently lost, great care and attention is necessary for their
+preservation from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the linings well
+up, and giving a good top covering. If the weather is intense, they will
+require eight or nine inches covering of hay, and water only once a
+week.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have dung in for a lining,
+which should always be put in the front and sides first. When the dung
+has been put together a week, turn it, and at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> end of another it
+will be fit for use; one load being sufficient for a three-light box.
+After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three weeks at the
+farthest, it will be necessary to line the bed to the width of about two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope of
+about six inches towards the top. When the dung has been put about half
+way up, tread it, and then add the remainder, beating it well down with
+a fork. Cover the lining with litter about three or four inches thick at
+the outside, and within one or two inches of the top of the box; then
+place a board at the top about nine inches wide, which will keep it
+close, and assist in drawing up the heat. Be particularly careful in
+stopping the inside next to the box, when you make a fresh lining, and
+beat it close down with the hand about two or three inches above the
+bottom.</p>
+
+<p>When a fresh lining has been added, have the dung in readiness for the
+back, which will be required about a fortnight afterwards. It should be
+formed about two feet six inches wide, well trod down, and wrapped up in
+the same manner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> as the front, within three inches of the top of the
+box. Be careful that the litter is not rank; old useless hay, or litter
+that has been some time laying by, will be preferable. The same
+directions must be attended to in stopping up the inside of the box, as
+with the front.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree affects the bed, and you
+discover that the inside, where it has been stopped, begins to get dry,
+give it some water in the evening, just before covering up, for about a
+week or ten days, which will be the means of keeping the rankness down,
+and causing a sweet steam heat to rise.</p>
+
+<p>As the lining settles, press it down with a spade next the box, and add
+more litter upon the top, which should be done every other day,
+observing that when you increase one lining to have the dung in
+readiness for the next; each lining not being calculated to last more
+than a month or five weeks; though the back one will not want renewing
+quite so often as the front. When you apply the second front lining, it
+will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake or mop-stick,
+making five holes to a three-light box; that is, one under each hill,
+and two under the bars: bore them straight rather better than half way
+up the bed, so that when the second back lining is applied, holes may be
+bored exactly opposite to the others. This will cause a free circulation
+of the heat from one lining to the other, and prove not only of great
+service in regulating the temperature of the bed, but of equal advantage
+in draining off the surplus water. Take care when you add a fresh
+lining, to keep the holes open.</p>
+
+<p>As the linings draw the boxes down, they will require rising with boards
+and bricks. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to provide
+some small pieces of board, rather larger than a brick, placing one of
+each, with a brick, under the corners of the boxes; and, as the bed
+settles, increase the number of bricks. When you raise the boxes, stop
+up the bed with rotten moist dung, and close up the inside about two or
+three inches above the bottom of the box.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p><p>The plants should be always topped when young, at the first joint, as
+before directed; then let them run two joints twice following;<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>
+afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, except it be blind,
+which may be easily ascertained by close examination; if you find such
+to be the case, let it run another joint before it is topped.</p>
+
+<p>It is necessary that the plants should be continued in leaf mould until
+the middle of January, as there is no other in which they will thrive so
+well at that season of the year. Their peculiar and tender nature bears
+a strong resemblance to young children, in the care requisite for their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+nurture and growth. They require light nourishment, that will easily
+digest; and no soil is so well calculated for this purpose as
+leaf-mould, mixed with a little grit; from its excellent properties in
+absorbing the water.</p>
+
+<p>In ridging out the plants, one thing must be attended to in the
+preparation of the bed, which has not been before mentioned. Hollow the
+bed out to the depth of about four inches in the middle, so that if the
+weather is cold or windy, the dung may be pulled down half way up the
+hills, when it will be nearly level about the bed; but as soon as the
+weather becomes mild, it must be drawn away again, or otherwise the heat
+will be too violent for the roots. As mould is added to the roots, draw
+the dung away level with the bottom of the hill; then put it half way up
+again, being, however, regulated in this by the heat of the bed, and the
+temperature of the weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts of
+the bed, take the dung out which has been placed round them, and level
+it with nearly the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> bottom of the box, leaving three or four inches
+round the sides to keep out the rankness from the linings, as before
+directed.</p>
+
+<p>In covering up the plants, a single mat will be sufficient, until they
+have been ridged out a fortnight, unless the weather is windy or very
+cold; in such case, make use of a double mat or a little hay; be
+careful, at the same time, not to give them too much covering at first,
+as it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow very weak; in this,
+however, you must be in some degree guided by the heat of the bed, and
+the temperature of the weather. When there is a good heat, and the
+weather is still, they will require less; but if there is much wind, or
+the air is very cold, it must of course be increased. It seldom occurs
+that plants require much covering until a fortnight before Christmas,
+when it will be found necessary, if the weather is moderate, to cover
+them from four to six inches. Instances have occurred, when the author
+has been obliged to increase the covering to a foot in thickness, from
+the intense cold;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> but this, however, is seldom the case; and from four
+to six inches may generally be considered sufficient from December to
+April. As the sun increases, and the nights become milder, reduce the
+covering to three or four inches, until May; from whence to June a
+single mat, or a little hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weather
+is now seasonable, and the nights warm, they will not require any
+covering, but should this not be the case, it is better to continue it
+even until Midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>Take particular care when covering up, after a fresh lining has been put
+to the bed, that the mats or hay does not hang over the lights for at
+least a fortnight, as such will draw the rank steam into the bed, and
+kill the plants.</p>
+
+<p>The linings should be continued until the weather is fine and settled,
+which may be expected in the middle of May; but should the weather be
+cold and unfavourable, it may be necessary to retain them until the
+middle of June.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p><p>In about the third week of the month of January, the plants will
+require stronger food; and half bog and half leaf mould may be applied.
+Should there be a difficulty in obtaining bog earth, procure the top
+spit of light meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at the least,
+six months before it is wanted for use. When you mould towards the
+outside, it may be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf mould, in
+the proportion of one-fourth, with bog or light meadow earth; observing,
+however, not to mould up the plants level until some time after fruit
+has been cut. The beginning of March is the proper time to mould up
+full.</p>
+
+<p>Let a cavity be left at the back and front of the box of about two
+inches, to prevent the roots from being injured on the outside of the
+box by the linings; and to cause the heat to rise freely from the bed.</p>
+
+<p>It is very necessary that the plants should be kept thin of vine, as
+being material in the growth of fine fruit; and as they extend towards
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run more than one joint
+at a time.</p>
+
+<p>Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the oldest first, in order that
+they may stand single, and not one over the other; to accomplish which
+it will be necessary to peg them out. When taking off the leaves, cut
+them close to the vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot and
+injure the plants. When they are laid, be particular in having the
+plants down close to the mould, as early as possible, in order that they
+may strike root; at the same time being careful not to bury the vine. In
+doing this, place a little mould round the side of the vine first,
+leaving the top uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the roots
+begin to strike. When such is the case, cover the vine all over, and
+then you may continue laying within one joint of the extremity.</p>
+
+<p>It is here necessary to observe, that very few are acquainted with the
+advantages that may be derived from laying the plants in a proper
+manner. Many even, who are in the habit of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> observing this method,
+practice it so slightly, that little if any benefit results from it; and
+by far the greatest number of horticulturists take no notice of it
+whatever. Laying is certainly a most material point in the culture of
+the early cucumber; and it is impossible to ensure a good crop without a
+strict attention to it: in fact, the Author principally attributes his
+success in the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care in this
+particular. It should be done every fortnight or three weeks after the
+plants have come into bearing; and, if continued in a regular manner,
+good fruit may be obtained until October. Some imagine that October sown
+plants will soon be worn out, after producing a few cucumbers early; but
+this is a mistaken idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, they
+will bear good fruit equally as long as any young plants sown in the
+spring. Leaf-mould, mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing to
+lay them in until the latter end of March, when you may add a stronger
+soil, composed of one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed with
+bog or light meadow earth.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p><p>Soft water is essentially necessary for the plants, as hard is almost
+certain of producing the canker, unless particular means are adopted to
+prevent it. In some situations it may be impossible to obtain soft
+water; in such a case, let the water stand in a tub for at least
+twenty-four hours; if two or three days even it will be the better, as
+in that time it will be in some degree softened by the sun, and the raw
+coldness expelled from it.</p>
+
+<p>After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps dung is an excellent
+thing to mix with the water, if used in a moderate manner. The following
+proportion will be necessary:&mdash;To six pots of water put in the tub one
+shovel-full of dung; let this be stirred up continually for the space of
+two or three days, and when wanted for use, it must be again well
+stirred up. In watering with this mixture, be particular in having a
+small thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it may be easily poured
+under the leaves. A gallon or six quarts will be a sufficient quantity
+for one light, and in watering be careful that it is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> sprinkled over
+the leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed with the water, will be found very
+beneficial to the plants, if used moderately, as too great a freedom
+will tend to injure them.</p>
+
+<p>When the plants are first ridged out, they will require water every
+third day, until about the middle of December; and when applied, it must
+be sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing to give a larger
+quantity where the heat seems most to prevail. In general more water is
+requisite at the back than the front: unless there is much heat in the
+front from the middle of December until the middle of January, once in
+five or six days will be sufficient to water the plants. Round the side
+of the box, and at the back, however, should be watered every night,
+while there is much heat. About two or three quarts of water at each
+time to a light will be sufficient for the plants until the middle of
+January and from that time more will be necessary. In applying the water
+you must be guided in a great measure by the state of the weather. Take
+the opportunity of watering when the sun is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> out, and then close them
+down for about a quarter of an hour or more, according to the season of
+the year. At all times, before watering, admit double the usual quantity
+of air about a quarter of an hour previous to the application, for the
+purpose of hardening the plants.</p>
+
+<p>Water may be applied at any time of the day, if the heat is good, but
+the most preferable time is certainly about eleven o'clock in the
+morning, particularly as the season advances towards the months of April
+and May, and the weather becomes more temperate, and the sun has greater
+power. After they are watered, shut them down for about ten minutes or a
+quarter of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a clear sun; then
+shade them with a mat for two or three hours, and shut the frame close
+down, in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be produced, which will
+cause the fruit to swell very quick. At one or two o'clock take off the
+mat and admit a little air. When the sun is clear and the weather hot,
+let them be shaded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> from eleven to two o'clock; some evergreen boughs or
+pea-sticks are very good things.</p>
+
+<p>Should the above directions be found inconvenient to attend to, the
+difficulty may be obviated by adopting the following method. After the
+plants are watered in a morning, shut them down, for the space of about
+ten minutes, then give them a little air; in about the same time
+increase it, and so gradually until the proper quantity is admitted. The
+gradual admission of air is extremely important, and ought, therefore,
+to be particularly attended to.</p>
+
+<p>The frames should never be shut down too long in the morning of the
+spring and summer months; a little air should be given at eight o'clock,
+if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be necessary to increase it;
+afterwards attending to it according to the state of the weather.</p>
+
+<p>In order to produce fine fruit in the early part of the season, that is
+in February and March;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep the
+male blossoms rubbed off when young, to prevent their weakening the
+plants; the best method of doing which is with a small pointed stick.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave a few male blossoms to
+set the fruit with. If this be not attended to in the early part of the
+season<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> the fruit will not swell off, as it is the female blossom
+alone that bears it, and if these be not impregnated with the male they
+will prove unfruitful. The female flower may easily be distinguished
+from the male, by the appearance of the fruit at the bottom of the
+blossom which the other does not possess.</p>
+
+<p>When the female flower is in full bloom, take a male blossom which is in
+full bloom also, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> hold it in one hand, with the other split it down,
+and tear off the flowers, being careful at the same time not to injure
+the male part; then hold the male blossom between the forefinger and
+thumb of the right hand, while the female flower is held between the
+middle and forefinger of the left hand; then put the male blossom in the
+centre of the female, and the farina will adhere to it, and have the
+desired effect; should it, however, happen to fall out after it is done,
+it is of no consequence whatever, as the impregnation is received the
+instant it is put in.</p>
+
+<p>The proper time to set the fruit is in the morning, as it always comes
+in bloom at night, and if left until the afternoon the blossom of the
+fruit closes a little, in consequence of which it is doubtful whether
+fruition will be effected.</p>
+
+<p>In order to ascertain whether the male blossom is good; after you have
+prepared it as above described for use, draw the farina, or genitals,
+across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave a glutinous substance
+resembling gum.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p><p>As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your finger let no more than
+one be upon a plant at a time to swell off, and when beginning to grow
+crooked give the stalk end a twist, place them on their backs, put a peg
+to the side, and the heat of the bed will soon draw them down and make
+them straight.</p>
+
+<p>A cucumber is a plant that requires much water, particularly when
+bearing fruit: it will be necessary then to give from one to two gallons
+each time according to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the
+weather. If the season is fine and the heat good they will require water
+every other day, but if the weather is dull, and the heat slack, be very
+cautious in applying the water lest they should get the canker, which is
+a dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be removed. The best thing
+in such a case is to give a strong heat, and be very moderate in the
+application of water.</p>
+
+<p>After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight it will be necessary
+to shut them down in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> the afternoon, about an hour before they are
+covered up. They will, however, require air in the night, generally till
+the fruit is cut, and even then if the weather is mild; for by being
+kept close at night when there is a strong heat, the fruit is liable to
+change colour and become of a yellow cast.</p>
+
+<p>The plants should be uncovered in a morning by eight o'clock, or nine at
+farthest, in the winter, and six or seven as the season advances, unless
+the weather is very cold or windy, when they may remain an hour longer
+than usual.</p>
+
+<p>Should the frame be infested with woodlice, place some cabbage-leaves or
+a small quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer the purpose of a
+trap to collect them, when they may be easily destroyed by boiling
+water. Care, however, is necessary in this expedient, for should the
+plants have taken root at the side of the box, the hot water will
+materially injure them; but if the plants are kept healthy, little
+danger is to be apprehended from this description of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> vermin, as they
+always like a sickly stagnated plant to a thriving vigorous one. Mice
+are sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be destroyed by procuring
+from a Chemist some ground ox vomic&aelig;, and applying it in the following
+manner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it up well, and let it boil
+about ten minutes; take it off the fire and put in some wheat or
+cucumber seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours; or spread some
+ox vomic&aelig; not boiled upon bread and fresh butter, place this in the bed
+near the holes at which they enter, which will effectually extirpate
+them.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the time of cutting fruit<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> October sown plants,
+much depends upon the weather, some seasons being much finer than
+others. Fruit from the October seed has been cut off by the Author as
+early as the middle of January, while at another time it has been as
+late as the beginning of March; he, however, is well satisfied if it is
+ready to cut by the middle of February: indeed, upon an average this may
+be fairly considered as the probable time for its mature growth.</p>
+
+<p>It is not advisable in any young beginner to sow seed in November or
+December until about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grown
+in that season are very liable to be retarded in their growth, while
+those sown from about the twentieth of December to the beginning of
+January will grow much stronger and quicker, as they possess the
+advantage of the increase of the season. An experienced framer, however,
+can grow plants at any time of the year, and from those sown at the
+above time, he may expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March or
+towards the latter end of that month, according to the weather; much
+depending upon that and the situation of the framing grounds, which
+should at all times be open to the sun, and defended from the winds.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The Author would recommend January-sown plants, after
+having been topped at the first joint, to run four joints, then topped
+again at the first joint, when they will generally show fruit, and, if
+properly attended to, will swell off to seven or eight inches in length,
+as the first shows do not come so fine as those afterwards. Do not let
+more than one fruit swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause
+them to grow ill-shaped, and not near so fine.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the
+latter end of May, as by that time the bees will find their way to the
+frames, and prove equally effective.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only
+makes use of three kinds of frame cucumber, which he considers
+preferable to all the others. One is a long black prickly fruit, with a
+fine bloom and short handle, well filled up. It will sometimes grow for
+table to the length of fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to
+twelve. It is an excellent bearer, but not so well adapted for October
+sowing as the other two kinds, from its tender qualities, being thin
+leaved and less hardy: it is, however, a very good sort for January and
+spring sowing. The other two kinds very much resemble each other, and
+will frequently grow to the length of twelve inches, filled up in the
+handle, black, prickly, and carry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions
+are from eight to ten inches; being thick-leaved and particularly hardy.
+Both these are well calculated for the October bed, and excellent
+bearers for spring sowing. The Author obtained them both by
+impregnating; and those who purchase the work of him, may be
+accommodated with a few of the seeds of either of the above, gratis.</p></div></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>To be sown in the beginning of the Month.</i></h3>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>As this is the season in which Gardeners in general sow seed for
+cucumbers, it will be necessary to take notice of a few directions which
+vary from the October seed-bed.</p>
+
+<p>At this time of the year young plants are much slower in their growth,
+and more difficult to be reared than in October, consequently they
+require a stronger bottom bed, though made in the same manner as above
+directed. The dung must undergo the same process in working, but should
+be six inches higher; it will also require more wrapping and covering,
+particularly if the weather is very cold; in this, however, as before,
+you must be guided by the temperature of the season; taking care not to
+cover too much at first. For the first fortnight a double mat will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> be
+sufficient; and after that, if the weather is intense, increase the
+covering, by adding hay to the thickness of six or nine inches, with a
+mat over it. Air should be admitted night and day, according to the
+state of the weather; but they may be closed down for about an hour,
+before covering up, after they are a fortnight old.</p>
+
+<p>The plants should be ridged out young, at least when they are a month
+old; but be very particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly sweet
+before they are placed in it, as it is much better to keep them in the
+pots a week, or even a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge them
+out before the bed is in a proper condition.</p>
+
+<p>Be careful in keeping a good heat; in having the lining applied in
+proper time; and in well wrapping them up. The lining will be required
+when they are three weeks old at the back and front. It should be two
+feet wide about half way up the bed, and lined with litter to the width
+of six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> in a proper
+condition: wrap it up also within three inches of the top, drawing it in
+gradually to about eighteen inches wide. With the exception of the
+foregoing directions, the method of treatment must be exactly the same
+as given in the Seed-bed for October.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>ON THE</h3>
+
+<h1>MANAGEMENT</h1>
+
+<h2>REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>Late Cucumber.</h1>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, that is, such as are grown in
+boxes and lights, and have no necessity for linings, is from the middle
+of March to the middle of April; and after that time seed may be put in
+for the hand-glass.</p>
+
+<p>Those that are sown in the middle of March will require stronger beds
+than those sown a fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should be
+made from two feet six inches to three feet high; while the latter will
+not require beds higher than two feet.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p><p>Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep,
+and if the soil is light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may be
+formed of it; but if a strong loam it will not answer the purpose.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the bed is made tread it down well, make it even, and let it
+have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then place on the
+boxes and light; and when the heat rises, admit from one to two inches
+of air. In about a week it will be necessary to put the mould in for the
+hills in the proportion of a barrow-full to a light. This must be
+levelled about an inch all over the bed to prevent the rank steam from
+injuring the plants. On the following day they may be ridged out, when
+the mould must be pressed with the hands close down round the roots of
+the plants; and water applied, which should be at the same time
+sprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now plenty of air, night and
+day, until the bed becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the case
+in about a week; after which they may be shut down at night.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p><p>Let the topping be the same as directed for the Seed-bed in October; if
+the soil is light and rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot or
+eighteen inches wide, and as high, or even higher than the bottom of the
+box. This will prove a great support to the plants; be the means of
+producing an abundant crop of fruit; and obviate the necessity of
+laying; which must otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, or
+the boxes are unusually large. Should laying, however, be preferred,
+great attention must be paid to it, and the same method adopted as
+prescribed for the early cucumber.</p>
+
+<p>Particular care is requisite in the culture of the late cucumber to
+preserve it from the canker; the best means that can be adopted to
+prevent this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and always apply soft
+water. This should be given in the morning, or, if not then convenient,
+never later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when the vines will
+have an opportunity of drying before night: a fine day should always be
+taken advantage of for this purpose, which will tend considerably to
+accelerate their growth. Admit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> a double quantity of air for a quarter
+of an hour before watering; and while the nights continue cold, be
+careful in keeping them covered up. In some seasons, when the weather is
+inclement, it will be necessary to observe this even until Midsummer.</p>
+
+<p>By strict attention to the foregoing directions, no danger need be
+apprehended from the canker, as it generally proceeds from a cold chill;
+suffering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which keeps them
+continually moist; and not admitting a sufficient quantity of air
+necessary to harden them.</p>
+
+<p>In ridging out the plants, put two in small lights and three in larger
+ones; and when the roots appear through the hills, add mould to them;
+observing, that they will require moulding up much quicker than those
+grown at the early season: in fact, after they have been ridged out
+about a fortnight or three weeks, it will be necessary to mould them up
+fully.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p><p>If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons of water for each light
+will be necessary every two or three days.</p>
+
+<p>Keep them pegged and laid about once a fortnight; and be particular also
+in having them thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then allowing
+them to run four, and afterwards topping them again at the first, as
+before mentioned in the January sown plants. By observing these
+directions, a good crop of fruit may be ensured, which will be ready to
+cut in about a month or five weeks after they have been ridged out.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>ON THE</h3>
+
+<h1>MANAGEMENT</h1>
+
+<h2>REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>Hand-glass Cucumber</h1>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>The best time to sow for the hand-glass cucumber is from the middle of
+April to the beginning of May; though they may be sown from the tenth of
+April until the middle of May; and the plants may be grown in the early
+cucumber or melon beds.</p>
+
+<p>When they are potted off, put three plants in each pot, being particular
+in not filling them more than three parts full, as they are very liable
+at this time of the year to draw up long in the stem. Merely cover the
+roots with mould at first; in the course of two or three days add a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+little more; and in about a week fill up the pots to the brim.</p>
+
+<p>It is necessary to give them as much air as possible; and to have them
+placed at the back of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. They
+must be well supplied with water, and let them be topped at the first
+joint.</p>
+
+<p>By this mode of treatment, you may have strong stuggy plants, fit to put
+under the hand-glass in three weeks; at all events, they should not be
+kept in the pots longer than a month, as there is a probability, if that
+time is exceeded, of their being stinted in the growth.</p>
+
+<p>The soil best calculated to ridge them out in, is a light rich earth. If
+the soil is of a strong loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten dung
+to it, and mix it up well together.</p>
+
+<p>Dig a trench about a foot in depth, and three feet wide, and let the bed
+be made up about a foot above the level, that is, two feet from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+bottom of the trench; tread it down well, level it, and apply some water
+if it is dry; then put the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, and
+eighteen inches wide on each side of the trench; afterwards put some
+dung or leaf mould on, and dig it in. Level the mould down, so that the
+bed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten inches deep, taking
+care to leave it a little higher in the middle, where the dung is
+placed, in order that the mould may not settle, and become lower in the
+centre, which will have a tendency to injure the plants by absorbing the
+water, which is most required at the outsides.</p>
+
+<p>It is an excellent plan, if the ground is disengaged two or three months
+previous to the time it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it out
+six feet wide, and put in six inches of dung or leaf mould, and lay it
+up in ridges of two feet six inches in width, and a foot in depth. When
+wanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench three feet wide for the
+dung, levelling it as before directed. This method, if it can be
+conveniently attended to, is certainly preferable to the other,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> as it
+allows an opportunity of incorporating the dung and mould together. If
+hot dung cannot be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, provided
+the seed is not sown earlier than the month of May.</p>
+
+<p>Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, and when wanted for use,
+level it down; then mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three feet
+alleys; afterwards place the line to the middle of the ridge, and mark
+out three feet six inches, which must be the distance from the centre of
+each glass. Take out two spadesful of the mould, level it on the ridge,
+and put one spadeful of light rich earth in its place, for the purpose
+of receiving the seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, take out
+one spadeful, making it round and hollow, about eight inches wide; then
+sow the seed from eight to twelve under each glass. If the mould is dry,
+apply water to the seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down close,
+observing as they become dry, to sprinkle them with water.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p><p>After the seed has been up about a week, it will be necessary to thin
+them out, in the proportion of six plants to each glass; and in the week
+following reduce them to three, which is the proper number to be grown
+together finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, put some light
+mould round the stems of the plants, which should be done at two
+different times, allowing a week to elapse between each application, and
+filling up the hollow that is left.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as they have made two rough leaves, top them at the second
+joint. This is a plan which may be adopted with success. Hot dung is
+also of great advantage, as it will cause them to come into bearing
+nearly a month sooner than would otherwise be the case.</p>
+
+<p>After the plants have been topped, as above directed, let them run to
+six joints, and then top them again, when they will show fruit, which
+may be topped at the first joint. If the hand-glasses are large, fruit
+will be ready to cut very early.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p><p>Be particular in not suffering them to run to too much vine; six joints
+is quite sufficient at the first, and afterwards always keep them topped
+at the first or second joint. By strict attention to this mode of
+treatment, you may ensure a more abundant crop, and much finer fruit,
+than can be calculated upon from the usual method of suffering the vine
+to grow to a considerable length, which tends materially to weaken and
+exhaust the plant.</p>
+
+<p>Let them be kept under the glasses as long as possible, without danger
+of injuring them, admitting a small quantity of air in the day-time,
+when the weather is warm, by means of a piece of wood, in the form of a
+wedge, about seven inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about three
+inches at the top. This will enable you to rise or fall the glass
+according to the quantity of air necessary to be admitted.</p>
+
+<p>Before placing the vine outside the glasses, it will be necessary to
+admit a larger portion of air, both night and day, for three or four
+days,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> in order to harden the plants; then mulch the bed all over with
+litter, which will cause the fruit to be kept clean, and the roots
+moist, an essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers.</p>
+
+<p>Though moisture is so extremely necessary, yet at all times in the
+application of water you must be regulated by the temperature of the
+season. If the weather is hot and dry when they come into full bearing,
+from three to four gallons of water will be required to each glass every
+two or three days, if the soil is light, but if of a strong loamy
+nature, less will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<p>Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and place four half bricks,
+that is, one to each corner, under the frame of the glass; or another
+method may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south by means of a
+piece of stick, about the thickness of a broom-stick, a foot in length,
+with three notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the purpose of
+resting the glass upon. This plan is far preferable to the former, in
+materially<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> accelerating the growth of the fruit, by preventing too
+great a current of air; besides possessing the advantage of easier
+access to the plants, when there is a necessity for examining them. It
+is, however, requisite when this method is adopted, that the ridges
+should always front the south.</p>
+
+<p>If the above directions are strictly attended to, and the season is in
+any degree favorable, a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>DIMENSIONS</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>BOXES AND LIGHTS</h1>
+
+<h3>FOR</h3>
+
+<h2>Early and Late Cucumbers.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h3><i>Three-light Boxes for October sowing.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The boxes should be made of good seasoned deal, one inch and a half
+thick, ten feet seven inches long, four feet three inches wide, and one
+foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. The
+bars to be three inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches in
+height, and one slip at each end. The bars to be fluted on each side of
+the slips, with oak corners, five inches wide.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p><p>The lights to be four feet three inches and a half long, three feet six
+inches wide, and the back rail two inches and three quarters wide; the
+front to be three inches, and the sides two inches and a half; with
+three bars, rounded off to a point inside, three quarters of an inch
+wide. To be made of good seasoned deal, and to have horns both in the
+back and front. The squares must be formed of strong crown glass, leaded
+and cemented; let there be five in length, the one in front being five
+inches long. A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, under the
+lead of each light, which must also have iron handles.</p>
+
+<h3><i>One-light Box for October sowing.</i></h3>
+
+<p>This must be in length four feet eight inches, three feet seven inches
+wide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the
+front.</p>
+
+<p>The lights to be half an inch longer than the box; and in all other
+respects the same as those before described.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><i>For January sowing.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, four feet eight inches wide,
+one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front.
+The bars and slips the same as for October.</p>
+
+<p>The lights to be four feet eight inches and a half long, and three feet
+six inches wide, with four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied,
+and a small piece of lead across to every square. In other respects to
+be the same as those for October.</p>
+
+<h3><i>For Spring sowing.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at the back, and eight inches
+in the front. In other respects, the boxes as well as the lights for
+spring sowing, must be the same as those directed for the January
+seed-bed.</p>
+
+<p>Both boxes and lights should have three coats of paint, white inside,
+and a dark lead colour on the outside.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h2>ON THE CULTURE</h2>
+
+<h3>OF</h3>
+
+<h2>THE EARLY AND LATE</h2>
+
+<h1>Melon.</h1>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>ON THE</h3>
+
+<h1>MANAGEMENT</h1>
+
+<h2>REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE</h2>
+
+<h3>OF</h3>
+
+<h2>Early and Late Melons.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<p>For early melons have three loads of dung for a three-light box; but if
+you have previously grown early cucumbers, the old linings will be
+useful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion of one half of fresh
+dung with it. This, in fact, will be better than all fresh, as it
+requires only once turning, whereas new dung should be turned twice. In
+gentlemen's gardens there is generally an abundance of leaves, and
+sometimes a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, leaves, mixed with
+an equal proportion of dung, may be used very successfully for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+early melon; and for the late one all leaves, from trees or shrubs, will
+answer the purpose, particularly where there are brick pits.</p>
+
+<p>Let the dung be put together for a week, and lay the same time before it
+is turned. Be careful that the bottom is dry where the bed is built;
+raise it with mould or road sand to the height of six or eight inches,
+and allow the bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and wider than
+the box, so that when the bed is made, it may be drawn up in a gradual
+manner to about three or four inches wider than the box, observing at
+the same time to beat it well down with a fork. Let it be about three
+feet nine inches at the back by three feet six inches in the front;
+should there, however, happen to be a scarcity of dung, a foot of
+strawberry or asparagus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed,
+some of each, may be added at the bottom of the bed.</p>
+
+<p>If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it may be properly
+moistened; and after the bed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> is formed, let it be again watered, as the
+plants will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the proper effect,
+if the bed is kept too dry.</p>
+
+<p>The bed should be made three weeks or a month before the plants are put
+into it, and must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged out. When
+the bed is in a proper condition, hollow it out in the middle to the
+depth of four inches, and put a large barrow-fall of mould to each hill,
+pressing it down close with the hand about a foot deep.</p>
+
+<p>The day before you intend to ridge out, put a pot of plants in the bed,
+to prove whether it is sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case,
+and the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to a light; but if
+small two will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<p>The proper time to sow the seed for an early crop is about the middle of
+January; and the early cucumber bed will do very well for the purpose.
+Those sown at this time will be fit to cut in the first or second week
+of May; but if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, the
+beginning of February is a preferable season to sow, when they will be
+ready to cut by the latter end of May or the beginning of June.</p>
+
+<p>The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an early crop. Let them be
+sown in leaf mould, about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight size
+pot; immediately apply water, and plunge the pots in a good sharp heat.
+As soon as the seed makes its appearance, which will be in the course of
+about three days, if it is good, un-plunge the pots and give them a
+little water. In two or three days more they will be fit to pot off,
+which ought always to be done when about a week old, as they strike much
+more freely when potted off young. Let the soil for potting off the
+plants be half leaf mould, and half light loam or bog earth.</p>
+
+<p>The best season to sow for a second crop is the beginning of March, and
+well calculated for the Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock,
+Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> the same description,
+though under different names, which they have derived from those
+gardeners who have cultivated them by impregnating one with the other.
+It is by no means, however, advisable to sow the Black Rock before the
+latter end of March, as it is only calculated for a late melon, and
+should be grown in large boxes, two plants to a light. This, though a
+fine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not suit those whose object
+is to produce a large quantity; for, by attempting to grow more than two
+in a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to any degree of
+perfection.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with the Author, who has
+produced fruit of this kind upwards of seven pounds in weight, though
+the common size varies from three to five. This description of melon is
+not generally known, although it is a fine looking and excellent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+flavoured fruit: it possesses a thin skin, orange-coloured flesh, and
+the rind is very dark.</p>
+
+<p>The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest flavoured melon that can be
+produced, though small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight of
+three pounds, and commonly from one to two. The flesh is of a deep
+scarlet colour, and it is rather inclined to rock.</p>
+
+<p>The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive melon in bearing; but in
+order to obtain them good flavoured no more than one fruit must be
+suffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the lights are large,
+when two may be allowed, that is, six in a light; but if, however, the
+plants are confined to one fruit, a second crop may be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in appearance, and much
+approved of by some gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for a
+rock; but it will not, however, keep long, soon loses its flavour, and
+the colour changes very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> yellow; it is also extremely tender in its
+growth, and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock; neither is it
+so handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, nor does it ripen any sooner.</p>
+
+<p>The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, with a thin skin, but
+generally small in its dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort of
+this kind that will grow from three to five pounds in weight.</p>
+
+<p>The Black Rock melon should not be sown later than the latter end of
+May; the Stroud and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the tenth of
+June; and the Early Cantaloupe about the twentieth of June.</p>
+
+<p>In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in having a good depth of
+earth, from a foot to eighteen inches will be necessary. When the hills
+are made for the very early melons, one large barrow-full of mould will
+be sufficient, which must be pressed down close with the hand. Those
+that are sown in March will require one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> barrow-full and a half, and
+those afterwards two. In applying this mould, put one barrow-full in
+first, and tread it down; then add the remainder, and press it close
+down with the hand. Procure some good holding loam of a greasy nature,
+such as is generally found in the marshes, which is the most preferable
+kind of soil for melons, and let it be well weathered before using. It
+ought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. Mix this with a sixth
+proportion of good rotten dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned over
+two or three different times, that it may be properly sweetened and
+incorporated together; taking care, however, that it is not broken too
+fine.</p>
+
+<p>The mould intended for the hills of the first crop should be lighter
+than for those grown afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixed
+with a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung; or an equal proportion
+of stiff loam and leaf mould. As mould is added after the plants have
+been ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take particular care
+that the roots are never exposed to the sun, but as soon as they make
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> appearance through the hills, increase the mould, in the
+proportion of a barrow-full to each hill for the early melon, and two,
+or even more, to the later one.</p>
+
+<p>In watering the plants, as the season advances, you must be regulated by
+the composition of the soil, and the temperature of the weather. If the
+soil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity that should be
+applied to light mould. If the weather is warm, much water is necessary,
+but if cold very little should be given, as too much moisture at that
+time will create the canker.</p>
+
+<p>Heat being materially requisite for preserving the growth of the melon,
+great care must be taken in keeping the bed well supplied with linings,
+which must be added until the weather becomes fine and settled; they
+will generally be required until the beginning of June; but if the
+season is even then cold, it is better to continue them longer.</p>
+
+<p>In covering up the early plants, at the first<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> ridging out, a single or
+double mat will be sufficient; after that add a little hay, and increase
+it if the weather is cold. This should be continued until the middle of
+June, or later, if the season is unfavourable.</p>
+
+<p>Many gardeners being unacquainted with the proper mode of training and
+topping the melon, and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set the
+fruit, the Author will here give the method always pursued by himself,
+which, if strictly observed, will be found to be attended with far less
+trouble, and more certain in its effect than the plan generally adopted.</p>
+
+<p>When the plants are potted off, top them at the second break; that is,
+let them grow to two leaves; then take out the break, which in some
+kinds is in the centre, and in others in the second leaf. If you require
+the fruit very fine, two plants will be sufficient in a light; but
+should there be no particular necessity in that respect, and the lights
+are sufficiently capacious, three may be matured extremely well.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p><p>Have four runners to a light; that is, if two plants, two runners to
+each; but if three, two runners to one plant, and one to each of the
+other two. If the lights are large, they may be suffered to run to eight
+joints; but if, on the contrary, the lights are confined, six will be
+sufficient; and all other breaks that come out at home, with the first
+break that issues from the runners, should be effectually taken away, in
+order that the others may derive strength and nourishment. As soon as
+they make the first breaks from the runners, which by some are
+denominated cross bars, top them at the first joint, and in most sorts
+they will generally show fruit; but if it should so happen that this
+does not succeed, top them again, when they are certain of showing fruit
+at the second.</p>
+
+<p>If they are impregnated in the same manner as prescribed in the
+directions for the cucumber, there will be no difficulty in setting the
+fruit, which will also show much bolder, and possess greater strength
+when topped in close.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p><p>Every description of melon will be brought to a greater degree of
+perfection, by being suffered to swell off on the first shows, which can
+alone be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if this is particularly
+attended to, no apprehension need be entertained of the fruit being
+small or delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, so it
+decreases the strength and vigour of the plants.</p>
+
+<p>Great care is necessary in watering the plants: when they are young, it
+should be applied with a rose; but as soon as the runners are extended
+all over the bed, that may be dispensed with. If the weather is dull, a
+small quantity of water will be sufficient; and if very fine, more must
+be applied carefully without a rose, which will be found beneficial in
+causing them to set more freely.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> An<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> insufficiency of moisture is an
+error too prevalent with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, and
+indeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in weight and flavour, may
+be greatly attributed to want of judgment in this particular; for if the
+plants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of which has been before
+stated, they are of course more open to the air, and the sun has greater
+power in drying up the soil, consequently the plants will become
+exhausted, and the fruit will ripen before its growth is properly
+matured.</p>
+
+<p>The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full time, will be five weeks
+from the period of setting before it ripens; the Stroud about six; the
+Scarlet seven; and the Black Rock upwards of seven; there will, however,
+be some difference between those forced early with bottom heat, and
+those grown late; the early ones coming to perfection three or four
+days, or even a week before the other.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p><p>The proper time to sow for under-ground melons, that is, such as are
+grown without linings, is from the twenty-fifth of March to the
+twentieth of June; observing, at the same time, that those which are
+sown in March will require stronger beds than those that are set three
+weeks or a month later.</p>
+
+<p>The beds for the first should be formed of good dung, well worked, and
+three feet in height; whereas the latter will only require two feet. Dig
+a trench the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep; and if the
+soil is a strong good holding loam, it will answer the purpose for any
+description of rock melon; they requiring a strong soil to bring them to
+perfection; a light loam, however, may be used for the Early Cantaloupe.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down well, make it even, and let
+it have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then put on
+the boxes and lights, and when the heat rises to its proper height,
+which will be in the course<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> of three or four days, put the mould in for
+the hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a light, levelling
+it about an inch all over the bed, for the purpose of preventing the
+rank steam from injuring the plants. On the following day they may be
+ridged out, and watered, being very particular in sprinkling the bed
+regularly over. Admit air freely both night and day at first, until the
+bed is purified, and becomes perfectly sweet; this will be the case in
+about a week, when they may be shut down at night. Let the topping and
+training be the same as directed for the early ones.</p>
+
+<p>If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a bank may be made on
+the outside, at the back and front, about a foot or eighteen inches
+wide, which will prove a great support to the fruit, and cause them to
+grow much larger and finer; but if the soil is light and rich, by no
+means make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as mould of that
+description is not at all adapted for the production of fine melons. The
+only one that will in any degree thrive in light rich<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> soil is the Early
+Cantaloupe; but any kind of the rock description will never come to
+perfection.</p>
+
+<p>It is here necessary to observe that it is impossible ever to obtain
+fine or good flavoured fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on a
+plant at a time, as that support which is essential and ought to be
+directed to one object, by becoming divided, is insufficient for the
+perfection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, and renders it of
+little or no value.</p>
+
+<p>Many horticulturists experience much difficulty from the effects of the
+red spider and canker in melons; the former being caused by keeping them
+too dry, and the latter arising from too much moisture. In order to
+avoid these evils, the following directions should be particularly
+attended to. When the weather is hot, or there is a strong bottom heat,
+it is necessary to be free in the application of water, especially round
+the sides of the boxes; for when the plants cover the bed, it will not
+be requisite to give any in the centre over the stems.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p><p>When the plants cover the surface of the bed always water without a
+rose, observing that it should be invariably done in the morning, and
+when the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines to get dry before
+night, which will not be the case, if it is applied in the afternoon;
+and should the following day be dull, and perhaps continue so for three
+or four, the vines will remain wet, and then there is every probability
+of their getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from a cold chill,
+created by unnecessary moisture.</p>
+
+<p>The canker is a very destructive disorder, and extremely difficult to
+eradicate. The only means that can be adopted, or likely to prove
+beneficial, is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to give a good
+heat; being careful, at the same time, not to run into the other
+extreme, and create the red spider. If, however, the plants are kept
+thin of vine, and water is applied in the manner before directed, no
+fear need be entertained of either of the above disorders.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The Author has in his possession a sort of this
+description, from which he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds in
+weight.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, it
+will be necessary to shade them from the extreme violence of the heat.
+Mats are generally made use of, but the Author considers evergreen
+boughs far preferable, as the former entirely precludes the sun, whereas
+the latter is beneficial to the plants, in admitting it partially. This
+will be generally requisite from about ten until two; and at that time,
+in proportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air must be
+admitted.</p></div></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>DIMENSIONS</h2>
+
+<h3>OF THE</h3>
+
+<h1>BOXES AND LIGHTS</h1>
+
+<h3>FOR</h3>
+
+<h2>Early and late Melons.</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<h3><i>Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The wood-work should be of the same thickness, as those directed for
+early cucumbers, and the boxes of the same length; but two feet deep at
+the back, five feet wide, and one foot three inches in the front.</p>
+
+<h3><i>For Melons sown from the middle of February until the latter end of
+March, grown with linings.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The boxes and lights to be the same in thickness, length, and depth;
+five feet six inches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> wide; four bars to a light, with a small iron bar
+across the middle, in the inside, under the lead-work.</p>
+
+<h3><i>For late Melons, grown without Linings.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The boxes and lights to be the same as those before described, with the
+exception of being eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven inches in
+the front.</p>
+
+<h3><i>Brick Pits.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Let these be formed of nine inch brick-work, sunk one foot under-ground;
+five feet high at the back, by three feet six inches in the front, from
+the bottom; and six feet wide in the inside. Let the lights be three
+feet eight inches wide.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>THE END.</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.</h4>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The art of promoting the growth of the cucumber and melon
+       in a series of directions for the best means to be adopted
+       in bringing them to a complete state of perfection
+
+Author: Thomas Watkins
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2008 [EBook #27548]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon;
+
+IN A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS
+
+FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED IN BRINGING THEM TO
+
+_A COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BY
+
+THOMAS WATKINS,
+
+_Many Years Foreman with Mr. Grange, of Hackney, and now with W. Knight,
+Esq. Highbury Park._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+LONDON:
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET;
+
+AND SOLD BY GRANGE AND DULLY, FRUITERERS, COVENT GARDEN; MASON AND SON,
+SEEDSMEN, FLEET STREET; WARNER AND CO. SEEDSMEN, CORNHILL; GARRAWAY,
+NURSERY AND SEEDSMAN, NEAR MARYLAND POINT, STRATFORD, ESSEX; AND BY THE
+AUTHOR, AT HIGHBURY.
+
+1824.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon.
+
+
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+The author begs to inform the purchasers of this work, that it was
+originally his intention to have given an engraving of the particular
+description of cucumber and melon, which he has been so successful in
+bringing to a state of perfection; and, in fact, a plate was executed,
+at a considerable expense, for that purpose. Finding, however, that
+although accurate in its representation of _fine_ fruit, it did not
+pourtray the difference, nor convey the precise idea of those qualities
+which constitute the superiority of the author's; and aware that such
+would have been obvious to every experienced gardener, the design was
+necessarily abandoned, trusting, that as it was merely intended for an
+embellishment, its deficiency will not render the work less valuable to
+the profession.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+The Cucumber Seed-bed for October                              Page 1
+
+The Fruiting Frame for early Plants                                14
+
+The Seed-bed for January                                           43
+
+On the Culture of the late Cucumber                                46
+
+On the Hand-glass Cucumber                                         51
+
+Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and late Cucumbers    59
+
+On the Culture of early and late Melons                            65
+
+Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto                       83
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+Having, when young, imbibed a particular inclination to study the
+culture of the cucumber and melon, under the direction of my father,
+whose character as an early framer was in high repute, I assiduously
+tried every experiment which was calculated to improve upon his system,
+by bringing them to a more complete state of perfection.
+
+In marking the progress of their growth, I usually committed to writing
+those plans which I had found to have been productive of beneficial
+effects. The result of these remarks has proved the compilation of the
+following treatise, undertaken at the request of several
+horticulturists, who have expressed their desire to become acquainted
+with the process of my mode of cultivation.
+
+Considering it superfluous to enlarge this work by unnecessary or
+controversial observations, I have confined myself entirely to those
+directions, upon which I have uniformly acted; and have endeavoured to
+reduce them into as plain and simple a form as possible; at the same
+time observing to omit nothing which can be of utility in this difficult
+and hitherto imperfectly understood branch of horticulture.
+
+Several gardeners, who are now very eminent in their profession, have
+placed themselves under my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectly
+satisfied that the instruction they received, was fully adequate to the
+compensation required; and perfectly convinced them of the superiority
+of my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, that the advice given to
+such practitioners is contained in the following directions.
+
+My principal object in the different experiments I have tried, has
+always been to discover an easy, as well as a certain method of maturing
+these delicate plants, and, in consequence, have avoided, as much as
+possible, any artificial means that might be attended with difficulty or
+expense.
+
+The only writer I know upon this subject, with the exception of
+Abercrombie, whose system is now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phail,
+gardener to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published a treatise in the
+year 1795, in which he strenuously recommends brick pits for cucumbers
+and melons, as far superior to the dung bed. It will be obvious,
+however, to every person who has perused that work, that the plan was
+adopted merely through deficiency of knowledge in the proper management
+of the dung bed; for Mr. M'Phail asserts, that upon first attempting to
+produce early cucumbers in Lord Hawkesbury's garden, he completely
+failed, and was, in consequence, induced to apply to some horticulturist
+in the neighbourhood, to whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas for his
+instruction. The principal thing he appears to have been taught, was to
+keep the burning heat of the dung about the roots of the plants down by
+the continual application of water into the bed; which, however, he
+found insufficient to preserve them in a thriving state, throughout the
+winter months. This caused him to assert that it was out of the power of
+any person to keep a dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable to
+rear them at that time of the year. To this I have only to observe, that
+the following directions will prove a contradiction; for if they are
+strictly attended to, no fear need be entertained of their vigorous
+growth, either from the premature season, or the inclemency of the
+weather.
+
+In December and January, although their health is certain, I must allow
+that they do not grow so fast as in other months; and this is the
+particular time when difficulty is experienced by those who are
+unacquainted with the proper means to be adopted, although, perhaps,
+their efforts may have been attended with far more trouble than the
+rules here prescribed.
+
+The dung bed is certainly of the greatest importance both in the culture
+of the cucumber and melon; and want of knowledge in the management is
+generally the cause of the loss of the plants in the winter season, by
+the settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which cannot be removed
+without assistance from the sun: particular attention, therefore, to the
+directions given upon that point is highly necessary; indeed, it cannot
+be too strongly impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that upon
+this greatly depends the success of his endeavours to mature them to any
+degree of perfection.
+
+In the remarks upon preserving the plants from a cold moisture, in the
+most inclement weather, I have called to assistance what may be
+technically termed an artificial sun; and as this most material point
+may be perfectly understood I shall here describe it more particularly.
+
+Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly the top of the box with hay,
+straw, or any kind of sweet litter; observing that hay, however
+damaged, is certainly preferable; this will have the desired effect in
+promoting a top heat, and obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, in
+keeping the plants perfectly dry.
+
+To those who are unacquainted with the management of a dung bed, a brick
+one certainly appears more advantageous, in being attended with less
+trouble to the horticulturist, though infinitely with more expense, both
+in the building and consumption of dung: this, however, is a mistaken
+idea, for nothing certainly can be more congenial to the growth of
+either the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat: this essential
+requisite, which may always be obtained by the process hereafter
+described, can be but partially promoted in brick pits; for although
+water, in its necessary application, may create a steam heat, it soon
+evaporates; and the heat of the linings having to pass through the
+bricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite incapable of affording any
+nourishment to the plants.
+
+The limited space in which the plants are confined in their growth by
+brick pits, is also a very great objection to this mode of culture. That
+they derive their chief support from the extremity of the roots must be
+obvious to every one, and if these are concentred in the middle of the
+bed, and thereby rendered incapable of expanding over the flues as in
+the dung bed, they must be certainly deprived of that vigour which is
+natural to them from a free and uninterrupted growth, and where they
+experience the whole of the benefit that can arise from the bed in which
+they are placed. In short, the dung bed in so many instances is superior
+to brick pits, that competition in the culture of either the cucumber or
+melon by the latter plan would be entirely useless; for whether in the
+vigour of the plants, quickness of growth, or production of fine fruit,
+the dung bed, systematically attended to, as described in this treatise,
+will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive means are not always
+attended with the most beneficial results.
+
+In the following directions, the first thing I have taken notice of, is
+the early cucumber, as being the most difficult, and consequently the
+most particular in its process of culture. Strict attention and
+perseverance in the method prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to a
+complete state of perfection within the time limited.
+
+Secondly--The necessary directions will be found for promoting the
+growth of such cucumbers as are sown in January. It is here necessary to
+observe, that this is the most preferable season for those which are
+not required so very early; as the increasing temperature of the weather
+in the course of their growth, affords facility for their being matured
+with a greater degree of strength.
+
+Thirdly--The method of bringing to perfection the late frame, or spring
+sown cucumber. The directions upon this head will be found extremely
+useful, both to young practitioners, and those who are not professed
+horticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate their own gardens, and are
+desirous of possessing a cucumber bed, will find the information here
+given of great utility.
+
+Fourthly--In treating upon the process necessary for the management of
+the hand-glass cucumber in the summer months, I have offered an improved
+system, which will be found of considerable importance to gardeners in
+general in enhancing the value of their fruit, by rendering it much
+superior to that produced by the common method.
+
+The directions I have given with regard to the melon, will be found to
+explode all that difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined exists
+in the production of this choice fruit. The description given of my
+method of culture, will at once evince the simplicity of its process,
+and show the certainty of its result.
+
+Having explained the motives which induced me to undertake this work, I
+have only to observe, that the system has been productive of great
+advantage to myself, in enabling me to supersede my contemporaries in
+several annual shows, by obtaining the prize; and, to render this
+effective to every person, the principal thing required, as before
+mentioned, is attention and perseverance in the rules prescribed; and
+those who adopt them will, I am confident, acknowledge their utility,
+and be sensible of the benefits that must eventually arise from a
+practical improvement in this particular branch of horticulture.
+
+THOMAS WATKINS.
+
+Highbury Park, January 30, 1824.
+
+
+
+
+THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE
+
+Cucumber and Melon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER:
+
+_To be sown from the 10th to the 20th of the Month._
+
+
+One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows-full, will be sufficient for a
+one-light box, and let it be put together at least three weeks before
+making the bed, in a round or square heap, being particular in well
+treading it down. If the dung is dry, it will be necessary to give it
+some water; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. Let it lay in
+this state a week, and then turn it, shaking the outsides of the heap
+into the middle, and give it some more water. In doing this, it is
+requisite that the heap should be well shook to pieces, and trod down.
+Let it lay another week, at the expiration of which, observe the same
+directions as before given, applying the quantity of water in proportion
+to the dry nature of the dung. At the end of the third week, it will be
+in a proper condition to make use of, as by that time it will be
+sufficiently moist and hot, the necessary state in which it should be,
+before the formation of the bed.
+
+As much depends upon the nature of the dung, and its proper condition,
+great attention should be paid, and some judgment exercised in the means
+best calculated to prepare it for a state of fermentation. The most
+certain method that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a beneficial
+result is, in the summer months, to pack the dung you intend to make use
+of for the October seed-bed as close together as possible, taking care
+to keep it dry, that it may retain its virtue. This sort of dung is far
+preferable to that newly made, being less rank and not so liable to
+burn; and when under a state of preparation, by turning and moistening,
+as before described, it will be in a much better condition than any that
+can be fresh procured.[1]
+
+Before forming the bed, let the bottom be made in the following
+manner:--Raise the ground about six inches above the level with road
+sand or mould, upon the top of which place some fagots, or other kind of
+wood, to the height of a foot, in order that the bed may be well
+drained. If there is an insufficiency of dung, you can add a foot of dry
+rubbish, such as strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose stuff.
+Let the bottom be extended nine inches wider than the frame you intend
+to make use of, the height of the bed being at the back four feet, and
+in the front, three feet nine inches. Beat it well down with a fork;
+then put the box on, and fill it three parts full with the shovellings
+of the dung that is left; after which, place on the light, and let it be
+close shut down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, admit air by
+opening the frame about an inch: when it increases, so as to become very
+hot, admit more air, by extending the aperture to two inches. It must
+remain in this situation about a week; then fork it up above a foot
+deep, and if caked together, or in the least dry, give it more water.
+From two to four pots is generally sufficient; but the quantity must be
+regulated by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to observe, that
+moisture is of most important consequence to the seed-bed, and nothing
+is so well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from impurity as water.
+
+In two or three days after forking up, it will be necessary to take off
+the box and light, for the purpose of making the bed even. In doing
+this, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, and shake it to pieces;
+then put on the box again, and give the light one or two inches of air,
+according to the temperature of the weather.
+
+It will now be necessary to wrap up the bed with straw, pea-halm, or
+hay, about eighteen inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in gradually
+to a foot wide, within three inches of the top of the box.
+
+In three or four days stir up the bed in the same manner as before,
+observing that if it be in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat,
+to give it three or more pots of water, as shall seem necessary. It must
+be stirred up again in three or four days, and beat down gently with a
+fork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the old tan or mould in
+which the seed is to be deposited.
+
+A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or three weeks before the seed
+is attempted to be sown; as many evil consequences are to be apprehended
+from sowing it before, from the firing of the bed, or the impure nature
+of the dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the plants will not
+be brought to that degree of perfection, as might reasonably be expected
+from a bed in its proper heat and condition.[2]
+
+After the bed has been laid and dealt with according to the foregoing
+directions, spread two barrows-full of old tan or light mould all over
+the surface, having it a little deeper in the middle than at the sides.
+Old tan is certainly more preferable than mould, though either will
+answer the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day before the seed
+is sown, and cover the bed up with a single mat at night, taking care to
+shut it down until the morning, that the heat may be properly drawn up.
+Take some forty-eight size pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould with
+a sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. The sifting mould to a
+fine degree is an error too prevalent in horticulture, and ought
+particularly to be avoided, from its great tendency to bind.
+
+It is very requisite that a cucumber should have a good digestion, and
+in order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes at
+the bottom of the pots with broken pieces; then strew a little of the
+rough siftings of the mould over it, and fill them up within half an
+inch of the brim with the prepared mould and sand. Shake it down a
+little, and sow the seed[3] from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, just
+covering it with a little mould; then give it a small quantity of water,
+which for the first time may be cold, but great care must be taken in
+the subsequent waterings, that it be chilled to about the warmth of new
+milk.
+
+The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the bed up to the rim, and give
+them about half an inch of air. At night they must be covered with a
+single mat, taking care to turn it up at at the back, that the steam may
+pass freely from the bed. Let the air be continued both night and day.
+
+After the seed has been sown three days, it will be up, when the pots
+must be unplunged, placed on the surface, and some water given to them.
+They will now require upwards of an inch of air, both night and day,
+which will cause the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and prevent
+their drawing. In about three days give them some more water in the
+morning, and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon.
+
+Plants should be always potted off when young, as they strike more
+freely in the pots; and, in doing this, the following directions should
+be attended to.
+
+Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day before potting off, and let
+it be of the same description as that in which the seed was sown. If the
+pots are old and dirty, wash them, and be careful in having them
+properly dried before they are made use of. Take some old rotten turf,
+or a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, and place a small
+quantity over the tile at the bottom of every pot; then fill them about
+one-third full, put three plants in each, and cover the roots about an
+inch. The pots must not be plunged, but placed on the surface, and some
+water given them with a fine rose.
+
+It is necessary to have a small pot on purpose to water the plants,
+which will contain about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, which
+is much better calculated to water the plants regularly than a spreading
+one.
+
+Be particular in watering them regular, which will be requisite every
+two or three days, for the space of three weeks or a month at latest,
+when they will be in a proper condition to ridge out.
+
+After the plants have been potted three days, add a little mould to
+them, and repeat it every two or three days, for about a fortnight,
+until the pot is quite filled. Much attention should be paid to this
+method of putting in the mould, which experience has convinced the
+author is far superior to the usual practice of filling the pots in the
+first instance up to the seed-leaves of the plants. By the gradual mode
+of filling, the plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain in its
+growth of being dwarfish and strong, which cannot be insured by the
+common method, as it tends considerably to weaken the plant, and renders
+it very liable to fog off, before taking root. By potting them low, and
+only just covering the roots at first, the stems of the plants become
+hardened, and strike very freely upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumber
+always decay when forced with a strong bottom heat.
+
+It will be necessary, after the plants have been potted about a week,
+to examine the bed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there is any
+fire heat. If such should be found to be the case, and the directions as
+before given with regard to moisture have been strictly attended to, it
+can only exist in the tan, which must immediately be supplied with
+water, and, the day following, stirred well up together and levelled,
+placing the pots upon the surface. In another week again examine the
+bed, and if any fire heat still remains, attend to it as above; if not,
+stir up the tan, and plunge the pots about half way down; being,
+however, guided in this by the temperature of the bed, as plants sown in
+October do not require so much heat as those in the three following
+months.
+
+Observe, when the plants have been potted two or three days, to stir the
+mould in the pots, round the plants, and likewise the tan, with a
+sharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to freshen the plants, and
+prevent any thing of a mouldy nature from injuring them.
+
+As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, top them, by taking out
+the break that appears next, which may be easily done with the thumb and
+finger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little more than a fortnight, they
+will be in a fit state to top down; and in three weeks from the time of
+sowing, ready to ridge out.
+
+At this time of the year, the bed will not require any lining; but
+observe, that as the wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increase
+it, pressing it down close to the box, and keeping it within one-third
+of the top.
+
+If the plants are not ridged out when three weeks old, plunge them up to
+the rim, until the fruiting frame is ready for their reception, which
+ought to be at the latest when they are a month or five weeks old. If it
+should happen, however, that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by no
+means ridge them out until it is in a proper condition. After they are a
+month old, increase the lining at the back and front, about four or five
+barrows-full each, applying it in the following manner:--Remove the
+wrapping down to the bottom, and extend the dung to the width of two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed; drawing it in to about
+eighteen inches at the top. Cover the lining with the litter four inches
+wide from the bottom, and three parts as high as the box, being
+particularly careful in stopping up the inside, by pressing the tan
+close to the box, about three inches above the bottom. As the lining
+sinks, add a little wrapping to the top, formed of hay, or old litter
+that is quite sweet.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its virtue from
+six to nine months.
+
+[2] The heat required in October sown plants, while growing in the
+seed-bed, is from sixty-five to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit's
+thermometer. Should that temperature be exceeded in this season, they
+will draw up very long: but after being ridged out, more heat will
+become necessary; that is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees: and
+the same is to be observed with young plants raised in the three
+following months.
+
+[3] Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is three or
+four years old, imagining that new will grow too vigorous, and not show
+fruit or set so well; but in this they are much mistaken, the Author
+knowing, from experience, that new seed, or at least not more than two
+years old, is the best calculated for bringing to perfection both the
+cucumber and melon; possessing the advantage of a greater freedom in
+growth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old seed.
+
+
+
+
+THE FRUITING FRAME,
+
+_For Plants sown in October, November, December, and January._
+
+
+Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a three-light box, and the
+same in proportion to the number you intend to make use of. Let it be
+put together a fortnight before the seed is sown; be very particular in
+giving it plenty of water, and pack it close together. After it has laid
+a week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with water. Let it continue in
+this state another week, when the same directions as before given must
+be observed; and, in a week more, the bed will be in a fit condition to
+make up.
+
+The bottom must be prepared in the same manner as directed for the
+seed-bed; then form the bed of dung four feet three inches at the back,
+by four feet in the front, allowing for a cavity of about ten inches
+between each box; then place the boxes on, and put the shovellings
+inside, in the proportion of two or three barrows-full to a light. In
+forming the bed, it is the best plan to make it in layers of about a
+foot each, which will cause the dung to be much better mixed, than if
+all finished at first, of an equal height. Be very particular in
+separating the dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards beating it
+well down with a fork.
+
+After the bed has been thus prepared, put the lights on, and shut them
+down close until the heat begins to rise. When such is the case, give
+them about an inch of air; and in three or four days wrap the bed all
+round with dry litter or useless hay, eighteen inches wide from the
+bottom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the bed, which will
+greatly tend to promote a regular heat. As the careful wrapping up of
+the bed is an essential requisite, means must be taken to keep it close,
+and protect it from any injury that may arise in consequence of
+tempestuous weather, this may be accomplished by means of sharp-pointed
+sticks, with hooks in the form of a peg, and about the size and length
+of a broom-stick. Thrust these through the litter into the bed, about
+half way up, one to each light, at the back and front, and two at each
+end.
+
+After the bed has been made about a week or ten days, take off the boxes
+and lights, in order to level it, and let it have from four to six
+inches fall from the back to the front; in this, however, you must be in
+some degree guided by the form of the boxes, which it is necessary
+should have a good fall, that the plants may derive benefit from the
+sun; then fork up the bed about a foot deep, and again place on the
+boxes and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both night and day.
+In about four or five days it will be necessary to again fork it up, and
+give it some water, in the proportion of two pots to a light. This must
+be repeated every two or three days, until the bed is perfectly sweet,
+which is usually the case in three or four weeks, applying water during
+that time, according to the state of the bed.
+
+When you find that the bed is properly purified, put in the sifted leaf
+mould. A three-light box will require a large barrow-full; the quantity
+for a one-light being about four shovels. After this, add to the
+wrapping some sweet litter or hay, increasing it to nearly the top of
+the boxes, and apply about two pots of water to each of the cavities,
+taking care to fill them up to nearly the tops of the boxes, with short
+sweet mulshy litter. This is a point but very little known, yet of the
+greatest importance in the culture of cucumbers; for when the weather
+begins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and the boxes are placed
+close together, in the usual manner, the outsides are very liable to
+become damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is certain of doing the
+plants material injury.
+
+Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three-light box, and at night
+admit nearly two inches of air, covering them with a single mat; and if
+on the following day the plants look well, they may be safely ridged
+out.
+
+It is requisite that both the boxes and lights should be painted every
+year, at least a month before they are wanted for use; but if this
+cannot be conveniently done, be particular in washing them with boiling
+water, in which some unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in some
+measure answer the purpose of paint in effectually destroying the
+vermin, or the eggs which may have been deposited in the crevices of the
+wood.
+
+After the plants are ridged out, wash them every morning, on the
+outside, and about once a week in the inside, which will tend to reflect
+the light, and cause them to thrive much better. When you wash the
+outside, push them down about two or three inches, which will prevent
+the water from perishing the lining at the side of the boxes. If the
+plants have received no injury, and are able to bear the heat of the
+bed, ridge them out, letting the hills be about nine inches high,
+covering the roots about an inch round, and being an inch higher than
+they were when in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, rake it with
+the hand all over the bed; then water the plants, taking care, at the
+same time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the surface. Close them
+down for the space of ten minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If the
+weather is mild, in an hour it may be increased to two inches, and a
+single mat only will be requisite at night. If, however, the weather is
+windy, cover them at night with a double mat, or a single one and a
+little hay.
+
+Be very particular in allowing them plenty of air, especially of a
+night, taking care, however, to regulate this by the temperature of the
+weather. If there is much wind, they will of course require less air;
+but, at all events, it is better to give too much than otherwise, more
+particularly at the first ridging out, as the weather at this season
+being frequently subject to sudden changes, which, should it occur in
+the night, and the plants are too confined, or the least rankness
+existing in the bed, they are sure to experience material injury, which,
+at this time of year, it is very improbable they will ever recover; or,
+if with extreme difficulty, they should be brought round, they can never
+be expected to grow to any degree of perfection.
+
+Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to the depth of about nine
+inches, with a hand-fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, immediately
+give water to the part affected, that being the only effectual remedy
+that can be applied. Be careful in forking close to the bottom of the
+hills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in this place, bore
+several holes at the bottom of the hills, and apply plenty of water.
+
+Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or eight inches long, for the
+purpose of stirring the mould round the plants, in a similar manner to
+hoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much refresh the plants, and
+should be attended to while they are young, for at least two months the
+day after they have been watered.
+
+As soon as the roots begin to be visible through the hills, add three
+shovels-full of unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being very
+careful not to mould too freely, until the beginning of February, as the
+plants from the middle of December to the middle of January, lie in a
+dormant state; consequently, too large a quantity of mould at this
+season, will be attended with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, and
+preventing the heat of the bed rising in a free and proper manner.
+
+This being the season when plants are most exposed to injury, and are
+frequently lost, great care and attention is necessary for their
+preservation from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the linings well
+up, and giving a good top covering. If the weather is intense, they will
+require eight or nine inches covering of hay, and water only once a
+week.
+
+As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have dung in for a lining,
+which should always be put in the front and sides first. When the dung
+has been put together a week, turn it, and at the end of another it
+will be fit for use; one load being sufficient for a three-light box.
+After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three weeks at the
+farthest, it will be necessary to line the bed to the width of about two
+feet, and three parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope of
+about six inches towards the top. When the dung has been put about half
+way up, tread it, and then add the remainder, beating it well down with
+a fork. Cover the lining with litter about three or four inches thick at
+the outside, and within one or two inches of the top of the box; then
+place a board at the top about nine inches wide, which will keep it
+close, and assist in drawing up the heat. Be particularly careful in
+stopping the inside next to the box, when you make a fresh lining, and
+beat it close down with the hand about two or three inches above the
+bottom.
+
+When a fresh lining has been added, have the dung in readiness for the
+back, which will be required about a fortnight afterwards. It should be
+formed about two feet six inches wide, well trod down, and wrapped up in
+the same manner as the front, within three inches of the top of the
+box. Be careful that the litter is not rank; old useless hay, or litter
+that has been some time laying by, will be preferable. The same
+directions must be attended to in stopping up the inside of the box, as
+with the front.
+
+As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree affects the bed, and you
+discover that the inside, where it has been stopped, begins to get dry,
+give it some water in the evening, just before covering up, for about a
+week or ten days, which will be the means of keeping the rankness down,
+and causing a sweet steam heat to rise.
+
+As the lining settles, press it down with a spade next the box, and add
+more litter upon the top, which should be done every other day,
+observing that when you increase one lining to have the dung in
+readiness for the next; each lining not being calculated to last more
+than a month or five weeks; though the back one will not want renewing
+quite so often as the front. When you apply the second front lining, it
+will be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake or mop-stick,
+making five holes to a three-light box; that is, one under each hill,
+and two under the bars: bore them straight rather better than half way
+up the bed, so that when the second back lining is applied, holes may be
+bored exactly opposite to the others. This will cause a free circulation
+of the heat from one lining to the other, and prove not only of great
+service in regulating the temperature of the bed, but of equal advantage
+in draining off the surplus water. Take care when you add a fresh
+lining, to keep the holes open.
+
+As the linings draw the boxes down, they will require rising with boards
+and bricks. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to provide
+some small pieces of board, rather larger than a brick, placing one of
+each, with a brick, under the corners of the boxes; and, as the bed
+settles, increase the number of bricks. When you raise the boxes, stop
+up the bed with rotten moist dung, and close up the inside about two or
+three inches above the bottom of the box.
+
+The plants should be always topped when young, at the first joint, as
+before directed; then let them run two joints twice following;[4]
+afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, except it be blind,
+which may be easily ascertained by close examination; if you find such
+to be the case, let it run another joint before it is topped.
+
+It is necessary that the plants should be continued in leaf mould until
+the middle of January, as there is no other in which they will thrive so
+well at that season of the year. Their peculiar and tender nature bears
+a strong resemblance to young children, in the care requisite for their
+nurture and growth. They require light nourishment, that will easily
+digest; and no soil is so well calculated for this purpose as
+leaf-mould, mixed with a little grit; from its excellent properties in
+absorbing the water.
+
+In ridging out the plants, one thing must be attended to in the
+preparation of the bed, which has not been before mentioned. Hollow the
+bed out to the depth of about four inches in the middle, so that if the
+weather is cold or windy, the dung may be pulled down half way up the
+hills, when it will be nearly level about the bed; but as soon as the
+weather becomes mild, it must be drawn away again, or otherwise the heat
+will be too violent for the roots. As mould is added to the roots, draw
+the dung away level with the bottom of the hill; then put it half way up
+again, being, however, regulated in this by the heat of the bed, and the
+temperature of the weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts of
+the bed, take the dung out which has been placed round them, and level
+it with nearly the bottom of the box, leaving three or four inches
+round the sides to keep out the rankness from the linings, as before
+directed.
+
+In covering up the plants, a single mat will be sufficient, until they
+have been ridged out a fortnight, unless the weather is windy or very
+cold; in such case, make use of a double mat or a little hay; be
+careful, at the same time, not to give them too much covering at first,
+as it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow very weak; in this,
+however, you must be in some degree guided by the heat of the bed, and
+the temperature of the weather. When there is a good heat, and the
+weather is still, they will require less; but if there is much wind, or
+the air is very cold, it must of course be increased. It seldom occurs
+that plants require much covering until a fortnight before Christmas,
+when it will be found necessary, if the weather is moderate, to cover
+them from four to six inches. Instances have occurred, when the author
+has been obliged to increase the covering to a foot in thickness, from
+the intense cold; but this, however, is seldom the case; and from four
+to six inches may generally be considered sufficient from December to
+April. As the sun increases, and the nights become milder, reduce the
+covering to three or four inches, until May; from whence to June a
+single mat, or a little hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weather
+is now seasonable, and the nights warm, they will not require any
+covering, but should this not be the case, it is better to continue it
+even until Midsummer.
+
+Take particular care when covering up, after a fresh lining has been put
+to the bed, that the mats or hay does not hang over the lights for at
+least a fortnight, as such will draw the rank steam into the bed, and
+kill the plants.
+
+The linings should be continued until the weather is fine and settled,
+which may be expected in the middle of May; but should the weather be
+cold and unfavourable, it may be necessary to retain them until the
+middle of June.
+
+In about the third week of the month of January, the plants will
+require stronger food; and half bog and half leaf mould may be applied.
+Should there be a difficulty in obtaining bog earth, procure the top
+spit of light meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at the least,
+six months before it is wanted for use. When you mould towards the
+outside, it may be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf mould, in
+the proportion of one-fourth, with bog or light meadow earth; observing,
+however, not to mould up the plants level until some time after fruit
+has been cut. The beginning of March is the proper time to mould up
+full.
+
+Let a cavity be left at the back and front of the box of about two
+inches, to prevent the roots from being injured on the outside of the
+box by the linings; and to cause the heat to rise freely from the bed.
+
+It is very necessary that the plants should be kept thin of vine, as
+being material in the growth of fine fruit; and as they extend towards
+the outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run more than one joint
+at a time.
+
+Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the oldest first, in order that
+they may stand single, and not one over the other; to accomplish which
+it will be necessary to peg them out. When taking off the leaves, cut
+them close to the vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot and
+injure the plants. When they are laid, be particular in having the
+plants down close to the mould, as early as possible, in order that they
+may strike root; at the same time being careful not to bury the vine. In
+doing this, place a little mould round the side of the vine first,
+leaving the top uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the roots
+begin to strike. When such is the case, cover the vine all over, and
+then you may continue laying within one joint of the extremity.
+
+It is here necessary to observe, that very few are acquainted with the
+advantages that may be derived from laying the plants in a proper
+manner. Many even, who are in the habit of observing this method,
+practice it so slightly, that little if any benefit results from it; and
+by far the greatest number of horticulturists take no notice of it
+whatever. Laying is certainly a most material point in the culture of
+the early cucumber; and it is impossible to ensure a good crop without a
+strict attention to it: in fact, the Author principally attributes his
+success in the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care in this
+particular. It should be done every fortnight or three weeks after the
+plants have come into bearing; and, if continued in a regular manner,
+good fruit may be obtained until October. Some imagine that October sown
+plants will soon be worn out, after producing a few cucumbers early; but
+this is a mistaken idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, they
+will bear good fruit equally as long as any young plants sown in the
+spring. Leaf-mould, mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing to
+lay them in until the latter end of March, when you may add a stronger
+soil, composed of one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed with
+bog or light meadow earth.
+
+Soft water is essentially necessary for the plants, as hard is almost
+certain of producing the canker, unless particular means are adopted to
+prevent it. In some situations it may be impossible to obtain soft
+water; in such a case, let the water stand in a tub for at least
+twenty-four hours; if two or three days even it will be the better, as
+in that time it will be in some degree softened by the sun, and the raw
+coldness expelled from it.
+
+After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps dung is an excellent
+thing to mix with the water, if used in a moderate manner. The following
+proportion will be necessary:--To six pots of water put in the tub one
+shovel-full of dung; let this be stirred up continually for the space of
+two or three days, and when wanted for use, it must be again well
+stirred up. In watering with this mixture, be particular in having a
+small thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it may be easily poured
+under the leaves. A gallon or six quarts will be a sufficient quantity
+for one light, and in watering be careful that it is not sprinkled over
+the leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed with the water, will be found very
+beneficial to the plants, if used moderately, as too great a freedom
+will tend to injure them.
+
+When the plants are first ridged out, they will require water every
+third day, until about the middle of December; and when applied, it must
+be sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing to give a larger
+quantity where the heat seems most to prevail. In general more water is
+requisite at the back than the front: unless there is much heat in the
+front from the middle of December until the middle of January, once in
+five or six days will be sufficient to water the plants. Round the side
+of the box, and at the back, however, should be watered every night,
+while there is much heat. About two or three quarts of water at each
+time to a light will be sufficient for the plants until the middle of
+January and from that time more will be necessary. In applying the water
+you must be guided in a great measure by the state of the weather. Take
+the opportunity of watering when the sun is out, and then close them
+down for about a quarter of an hour or more, according to the season of
+the year. At all times, before watering, admit double the usual quantity
+of air about a quarter of an hour previous to the application, for the
+purpose of hardening the plants.
+
+Water may be applied at any time of the day, if the heat is good, but
+the most preferable time is certainly about eleven o'clock in the
+morning, particularly as the season advances towards the months of April
+and May, and the weather becomes more temperate, and the sun has greater
+power. After they are watered, shut them down for about ten minutes or a
+quarter of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a clear sun; then
+shade them with a mat for two or three hours, and shut the frame close
+down, in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be produced, which will
+cause the fruit to swell very quick. At one or two o'clock take off the
+mat and admit a little air. When the sun is clear and the weather hot,
+let them be shaded from eleven to two o'clock; some evergreen boughs or
+pea-sticks are very good things.
+
+Should the above directions be found inconvenient to attend to, the
+difficulty may be obviated by adopting the following method. After the
+plants are watered in a morning, shut them down, for the space of about
+ten minutes, then give them a little air; in about the same time
+increase it, and so gradually until the proper quantity is admitted. The
+gradual admission of air is extremely important, and ought, therefore,
+to be particularly attended to.
+
+The frames should never be shut down too long in the morning of the
+spring and summer months; a little air should be given at eight o'clock,
+if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be necessary to increase it;
+afterwards attending to it according to the state of the weather.
+
+In order to produce fine fruit in the early part of the season, that is
+in February and March; let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep the
+male blossoms rubbed off when young, to prevent their weakening the
+plants; the best method of doing which is with a small pointed stick.
+
+As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave a few male blossoms to
+set the fruit with. If this be not attended to in the early part of the
+season[5] the fruit will not swell off, as it is the female blossom
+alone that bears it, and if these be not impregnated with the male they
+will prove unfruitful. The female flower may easily be distinguished
+from the male, by the appearance of the fruit at the bottom of the
+blossom which the other does not possess.
+
+When the female flower is in full bloom, take a male blossom which is in
+full bloom also, and hold it in one hand, with the other split it down,
+and tear off the flowers, being careful at the same time not to injure
+the male part; then hold the male blossom between the forefinger and
+thumb of the right hand, while the female flower is held between the
+middle and forefinger of the left hand; then put the male blossom in the
+centre of the female, and the farina will adhere to it, and have the
+desired effect; should it, however, happen to fall out after it is done,
+it is of no consequence whatever, as the impregnation is received the
+instant it is put in.
+
+The proper time to set the fruit is in the morning, as it always comes
+in bloom at night, and if left until the afternoon the blossom of the
+fruit closes a little, in consequence of which it is doubtful whether
+fruition will be effected.
+
+In order to ascertain whether the male blossom is good; after you have
+prepared it as above described for use, draw the farina, or genitals,
+across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave a glutinous substance
+resembling gum.
+
+As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your finger let no more than
+one be upon a plant at a time to swell off, and when beginning to grow
+crooked give the stalk end a twist, place them on their backs, put a peg
+to the side, and the heat of the bed will soon draw them down and make
+them straight.
+
+A cucumber is a plant that requires much water, particularly when
+bearing fruit: it will be necessary then to give from one to two gallons
+each time according to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the
+weather. If the season is fine and the heat good they will require water
+every other day, but if the weather is dull, and the heat slack, be very
+cautious in applying the water lest they should get the canker, which is
+a dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be removed. The best thing
+in such a case is to give a strong heat, and be very moderate in the
+application of water.
+
+After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight it will be necessary
+to shut them down in the afternoon, about an hour before they are
+covered up. They will, however, require air in the night, generally till
+the fruit is cut, and even then if the weather is mild; for by being
+kept close at night when there is a strong heat, the fruit is liable to
+change colour and become of a yellow cast.
+
+The plants should be uncovered in a morning by eight o'clock, or nine at
+farthest, in the winter, and six or seven as the season advances, unless
+the weather is very cold or windy, when they may remain an hour longer
+than usual.
+
+Should the frame be infested with woodlice, place some cabbage-leaves or
+a small quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer the purpose of a
+trap to collect them, when they may be easily destroyed by boiling
+water. Care, however, is necessary in this expedient, for should the
+plants have taken root at the side of the box, the hot water will
+materially injure them; but if the plants are kept healthy, little
+danger is to be apprehended from this description of vermin, as they
+always like a sickly stagnated plant to a thriving vigorous one. Mice
+are sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be destroyed by procuring
+from a Chemist some ground ox vomicae, and applying it in the following
+manner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it up well, and let it boil
+about ten minutes; take it off the fire and put in some wheat or
+cucumber seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours; or spread some
+ox vomicae not boiled upon bread and fresh butter, place this in the bed
+near the holes at which they enter, which will effectually extirpate
+them.
+
+With regard to the time of cutting fruit[6] from October sown plants,
+much depends upon the weather, some seasons being much finer than
+others. Fruit from the October seed has been cut off by the Author as
+early as the middle of January, while at another time it has been as
+late as the beginning of March; he, however, is well satisfied if it is
+ready to cut by the middle of February: indeed, upon an average this may
+be fairly considered as the probable time for its mature growth.
+
+It is not advisable in any young beginner to sow seed in November or
+December until about the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grown
+in that season are very liable to be retarded in their growth, while
+those sown from about the twentieth of December to the beginning of
+January will grow much stronger and quicker, as they possess the
+advantage of the increase of the season. An experienced framer, however,
+can grow plants at any time of the year, and from those sown at the
+above time, he may expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March or
+towards the latter end of that month, according to the weather; much
+depending upon that and the situation of the framing grounds, which
+should at all times be open to the sun, and defended from the winds.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] The Author would recommend January-sown plants, after having been
+topped at the first joint, to run four joints, then topped again at the
+first joint, when they will generally show fruit, and, if properly
+attended to, will swell off to seven or eight inches in length, as the
+first shows do not come so fine as those afterwards. Do not let more
+than one fruit swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause them to
+grow ill-shaped, and not near so fine.
+
+[5] There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the latter end of
+May, as by that time the bees will find their way to the frames, and
+prove equally effective.
+
+[6] The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only makes use of
+three kinds of frame cucumber, which he considers preferable to all the
+others. One is a long black prickly fruit, with a fine bloom and short
+handle, well filled up. It will sometimes grow for table to the length
+of fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to twelve. It is an excellent
+bearer, but not so well adapted for October sowing as the other two
+kinds, from its tender qualities, being thin leaved and less hardy: it
+is, however, a very good sort for January and spring sowing. The other
+two kinds very much resemble each other, and will frequently grow to the
+length of twelve inches, filled up in the handle, black, prickly, and
+carry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions are from eight to ten inches;
+being thick-leaved and particularly hardy. Both these are well
+calculated for the October bed, and excellent bearers for spring sowing.
+The Author obtained them both by impregnating; and those who purchase
+the work of him, may be accommodated with a few of the seeds of either
+of the above, gratis.
+
+
+
+
+THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY.
+
+_To be sown in the beginning of the Month._
+
+
+As this is the season in which Gardeners in general sow seed for
+cucumbers, it will be necessary to take notice of a few directions which
+vary from the October seed-bed.
+
+At this time of the year young plants are much slower in their growth,
+and more difficult to be reared than in October, consequently they
+require a stronger bottom bed, though made in the same manner as above
+directed. The dung must undergo the same process in working, but should
+be six inches higher; it will also require more wrapping and covering,
+particularly if the weather is very cold; in this, however, as before,
+you must be guided by the temperature of the season; taking care not to
+cover too much at first. For the first fortnight a double mat will be
+sufficient; and after that, if the weather is intense, increase the
+covering, by adding hay to the thickness of six or nine inches, with a
+mat over it. Air should be admitted night and day, according to the
+state of the weather; but they may be closed down for about an hour,
+before covering up, after they are a fortnight old.
+
+The plants should be ridged out young, at least when they are a month
+old; but be very particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly sweet
+before they are placed in it, as it is much better to keep them in the
+pots a week, or even a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge them
+out before the bed is in a proper condition.
+
+Be careful in keeping a good heat; in having the lining applied in
+proper time; and in well wrapping them up. The lining will be required
+when they are three weeks old at the back and front. It should be two
+feet wide about half way up the bed, and lined with litter to the width
+of six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining in a proper
+condition: wrap it up also within three inches of the top, drawing it in
+gradually to about eighteen inches wide. With the exception of the
+foregoing directions, the method of treatment must be exactly the same
+as given in the Seed-bed for October.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE
+
+Late Cucumber.
+
+
+The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, that is, such as are grown in
+boxes and lights, and have no necessity for linings, is from the middle
+of March to the middle of April; and after that time seed may be put in
+for the hand-glass.
+
+Those that are sown in the middle of March will require stronger beds
+than those sown a fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should be
+made from two feet six inches to three feet high; while the latter will
+not require beds higher than two feet.
+
+Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep,
+and if the soil is light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may be
+formed of it; but if a strong loam it will not answer the purpose.
+
+As soon as the bed is made tread it down well, make it even, and let it
+have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then place on the
+boxes and light; and when the heat rises, admit from one to two inches
+of air. In about a week it will be necessary to put the mould in for the
+hills in the proportion of a barrow-full to a light. This must be
+levelled about an inch all over the bed to prevent the rank steam from
+injuring the plants. On the following day they may be ridged out, when
+the mould must be pressed with the hands close down round the roots of
+the plants; and water applied, which should be at the same time
+sprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now plenty of air, night and
+day, until the bed becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the case
+in about a week; after which they may be shut down at night.
+
+Let the topping be the same as directed for the Seed-bed in October; if
+the soil is light and rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot or
+eighteen inches wide, and as high, or even higher than the bottom of the
+box. This will prove a great support to the plants; be the means of
+producing an abundant crop of fruit; and obviate the necessity of
+laying; which must otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, or
+the boxes are unusually large. Should laying, however, be preferred,
+great attention must be paid to it, and the same method adopted as
+prescribed for the early cucumber.
+
+Particular care is requisite in the culture of the late cucumber to
+preserve it from the canker; the best means that can be adopted to
+prevent this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and always apply soft
+water. This should be given in the morning, or, if not then convenient,
+never later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when the vines will
+have an opportunity of drying before night: a fine day should always be
+taken advantage of for this purpose, which will tend considerably to
+accelerate their growth. Admit a double quantity of air for a quarter
+of an hour before watering; and while the nights continue cold, be
+careful in keeping them covered up. In some seasons, when the weather is
+inclement, it will be necessary to observe this even until Midsummer.
+
+By strict attention to the foregoing directions, no danger need be
+apprehended from the canker, as it generally proceeds from a cold chill;
+suffering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which keeps them
+continually moist; and not admitting a sufficient quantity of air
+necessary to harden them.
+
+In ridging out the plants, put two in small lights and three in larger
+ones; and when the roots appear through the hills, add mould to them;
+observing, that they will require moulding up much quicker than those
+grown at the early season: in fact, after they have been ridged out
+about a fortnight or three weeks, it will be necessary to mould them up
+fully.
+
+If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons of water for each light
+will be necessary every two or three days.
+
+Keep them pegged and laid about once a fortnight; and be particular also
+in having them thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then allowing
+them to run four, and afterwards topping them again at the first, as
+before mentioned in the January sown plants. By observing these
+directions, a good crop of fruit may be ensured, which will be ready to
+cut in about a month or five weeks after they have been ridged out.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE
+
+Hand-glass Cucumber.
+
+
+The best time to sow for the hand-glass cucumber is from the middle of
+April to the beginning of May; though they may be sown from the tenth of
+April until the middle of May; and the plants may be grown in the early
+cucumber or melon beds.
+
+When they are potted off, put three plants in each pot, being particular
+in not filling them more than three parts full, as they are very liable
+at this time of the year to draw up long in the stem. Merely cover the
+roots with mould at first; in the course of two or three days add a
+little more; and in about a week fill up the pots to the brim.
+
+It is necessary to give them as much air as possible; and to have them
+placed at the back of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. They
+must be well supplied with water, and let them be topped at the first
+joint.
+
+By this mode of treatment, you may have strong stuggy plants, fit to put
+under the hand-glass in three weeks; at all events, they should not be
+kept in the pots longer than a month, as there is a probability, if that
+time is exceeded, of their being stinted in the growth.
+
+The soil best calculated to ridge them out in, is a light rich earth. If
+the soil is of a strong loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten dung
+to it, and mix it up well together.
+
+Dig a trench about a foot in depth, and three feet wide, and let the bed
+be made up about a foot above the level, that is, two feet from the
+bottom of the trench; tread it down well, level it, and apply some water
+if it is dry; then put the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, and
+eighteen inches wide on each side of the trench; afterwards put some
+dung or leaf mould on, and dig it in. Level the mould down, so that the
+bed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten inches deep, taking
+care to leave it a little higher in the middle, where the dung is
+placed, in order that the mould may not settle, and become lower in the
+centre, which will have a tendency to injure the plants by absorbing the
+water, which is most required at the outsides.
+
+It is an excellent plan, if the ground is disengaged two or three months
+previous to the time it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it out
+six feet wide, and put in six inches of dung or leaf mould, and lay it
+up in ridges of two feet six inches in width, and a foot in depth. When
+wanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench three feet wide for the
+dung, levelling it as before directed. This method, if it can be
+conveniently attended to, is certainly preferable to the other, as it
+allows an opportunity of incorporating the dung and mould together. If
+hot dung cannot be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, provided
+the seed is not sown earlier than the month of May.
+
+Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, and when wanted for use,
+level it down; then mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three feet
+alleys; afterwards place the line to the middle of the ridge, and mark
+out three feet six inches, which must be the distance from the centre of
+each glass. Take out two spadesful of the mould, level it on the ridge,
+and put one spadeful of light rich earth in its place, for the purpose
+of receiving the seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, take out
+one spadeful, making it round and hollow, about eight inches wide; then
+sow the seed from eight to twelve under each glass. If the mould is dry,
+apply water to the seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down close,
+observing as they become dry, to sprinkle them with water.
+
+After the seed has been up about a week, it will be necessary to thin
+them out, in the proportion of six plants to each glass; and in the week
+following reduce them to three, which is the proper number to be grown
+together finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, put some light
+mould round the stems of the plants, which should be done at two
+different times, allowing a week to elapse between each application, and
+filling up the hollow that is left.
+
+As soon as they have made two rough leaves, top them at the second
+joint. This is a plan which may be adopted with success. Hot dung is
+also of great advantage, as it will cause them to come into bearing
+nearly a month sooner than would otherwise be the case.
+
+After the plants have been topped, as above directed, let them run to
+six joints, and then top them again, when they will show fruit, which
+may be topped at the first joint. If the hand-glasses are large, fruit
+will be ready to cut very early.
+
+Be particular in not suffering them to run to too much vine; six joints
+is quite sufficient at the first, and afterwards always keep them topped
+at the first or second joint. By strict attention to this mode of
+treatment, you may ensure a more abundant crop, and much finer fruit,
+than can be calculated upon from the usual method of suffering the vine
+to grow to a considerable length, which tends materially to weaken and
+exhaust the plant.
+
+Let them be kept under the glasses as long as possible, without danger
+of injuring them, admitting a small quantity of air in the day-time,
+when the weather is warm, by means of a piece of wood, in the form of a
+wedge, about seven inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about three
+inches at the top. This will enable you to rise or fall the glass
+according to the quantity of air necessary to be admitted.
+
+Before placing the vine outside the glasses, it will be necessary to
+admit a larger portion of air, both night and day, for three or four
+days, in order to harden the plants; then mulch the bed all over with
+litter, which will cause the fruit to be kept clean, and the roots
+moist, an essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers.
+
+Though moisture is so extremely necessary, yet at all times in the
+application of water you must be regulated by the temperature of the
+season. If the weather is hot and dry when they come into full bearing,
+from three to four gallons of water will be required to each glass every
+two or three days, if the soil is light, but if of a strong loamy
+nature, less will be sufficient.
+
+Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and place four half bricks,
+that is, one to each corner, under the frame of the glass; or another
+method may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south by means of a
+piece of stick, about the thickness of a broom-stick, a foot in length,
+with three notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the purpose of
+resting the glass upon. This plan is far preferable to the former, in
+materially accelerating the growth of the fruit, by preventing too
+great a current of air; besides possessing the advantage of easier
+access to the plants, when there is a necessity for examining them. It
+is, however, requisite when this method is adopted, that the ridges
+should always front the south.
+
+If the above directions are strictly attended to, and the season is in
+any degree favorable, a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected.
+
+
+
+
+DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR
+
+Early and Late Cucumbers.
+
+
+_Three-light Boxes for October sowing._
+
+The boxes should be made of good seasoned deal, one inch and a half
+thick, ten feet seven inches long, four feet three inches wide, and one
+foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. The
+bars to be three inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches in
+height, and one slip at each end. The bars to be fluted on each side of
+the slips, with oak corners, five inches wide.
+
+The lights to be four feet three inches and a half long, three feet six
+inches wide, and the back rail two inches and three quarters wide; the
+front to be three inches, and the sides two inches and a half; with
+three bars, rounded off to a point inside, three quarters of an inch
+wide. To be made of good seasoned deal, and to have horns both in the
+back and front. The squares must be formed of strong crown glass, leaded
+and cemented; let there be five in length, the one in front being five
+inches long. A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, under the
+lead of each light, which must also have iron handles.
+
+
+_One-light Box for October sowing._
+
+This must be in length four feet eight inches, three feet seven inches
+wide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the
+front.
+
+The lights to be half an inch longer than the box; and in all other
+respects the same as those before described.
+
+
+_For January sowing._
+
+The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, four feet eight inches wide,
+one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front.
+The bars and slips the same as for October.
+
+The lights to be four feet eight inches and a half long, and three feet
+six inches wide, with four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied,
+and a small piece of lead across to every square. In other respects to
+be the same as those for October.
+
+
+_For Spring sowing._
+
+The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at the back, and eight inches
+in the front. In other respects, the boxes as well as the lights for
+spring sowing, must be the same as those directed for the January
+seed-bed.
+
+Both boxes and lights should have three coats of paint, white inside,
+and a dark lead colour on the outside.
+
+
+
+
+ON THE CULTURE OF THE EARLY AND LATE
+
+Melon.
+
+
+ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF
+
+Early and Late Melons.
+
+
+For early melons have three loads of dung for a three-light box; but if
+you have previously grown early cucumbers, the old linings will be
+useful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion of one half of fresh
+dung with it. This, in fact, will be better than all fresh, as it
+requires only once turning, whereas new dung should be turned twice. In
+gentlemen's gardens there is generally an abundance of leaves, and
+sometimes a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, leaves, mixed with
+an equal proportion of dung, may be used very successfully for the
+early melon; and for the late one all leaves, from trees or shrubs, will
+answer the purpose, particularly where there are brick pits.
+
+Let the dung be put together for a week, and lay the same time before it
+is turned. Be careful that the bottom is dry where the bed is built;
+raise it with mould or road sand to the height of six or eight inches,
+and allow the bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and wider than
+the box, so that when the bed is made, it may be drawn up in a gradual
+manner to about three or four inches wider than the box, observing at
+the same time to beat it well down with a fork. Let it be about three
+feet nine inches at the back by three feet six inches in the front;
+should there, however, happen to be a scarcity of dung, a foot of
+strawberry or asparagus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed,
+some of each, may be added at the bottom of the bed.
+
+If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it may be properly
+moistened; and after the bed is formed, let it be again watered, as the
+plants will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the proper effect,
+if the bed is kept too dry.
+
+The bed should be made three weeks or a month before the plants are put
+into it, and must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged out. When
+the bed is in a proper condition, hollow it out in the middle to the
+depth of four inches, and put a large barrow-fall of mould to each hill,
+pressing it down close with the hand about a foot deep.
+
+The day before you intend to ridge out, put a pot of plants in the bed,
+to prove whether it is sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case,
+and the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to a light; but if
+small two will be sufficient.
+
+The proper time to sow the seed for an early crop is about the middle of
+January; and the early cucumber bed will do very well for the purpose.
+Those sown at this time will be fit to cut in the first or second week
+of May; but if there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, the
+beginning of February is a preferable season to sow, when they will be
+ready to cut by the latter end of May or the beginning of June.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an early crop. Let them be
+sown in leaf mould, about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight size
+pot; immediately apply water, and plunge the pots in a good sharp heat.
+As soon as the seed makes its appearance, which will be in the course of
+about three days, if it is good, un-plunge the pots and give them a
+little water. In two or three days more they will be fit to pot off,
+which ought always to be done when about a week old, as they strike much
+more freely when potted off young. Let the soil for potting off the
+plants be half leaf mould, and half light loam or bog earth.
+
+The best season to sow for a second crop is the beginning of March, and
+well calculated for the Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock,
+Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly the same description,
+though under different names, which they have derived from those
+gardeners who have cultivated them by impregnating one with the other.
+It is by no means, however, advisable to sow the Black Rock before the
+latter end of March, as it is only calculated for a late melon, and
+should be grown in large boxes, two plants to a light. This, though a
+fine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not suit those whose object
+is to produce a large quantity; for, by attempting to grow more than two
+in a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to any degree of
+perfection.[7]
+
+The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with the Author, who has
+produced fruit of this kind upwards of seven pounds in weight, though
+the common size varies from three to five. This description of melon is
+not generally known, although it is a fine looking and excellent
+flavoured fruit: it possesses a thin skin, orange-coloured flesh, and
+the rind is very dark.
+
+The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest flavoured melon that can be
+produced, though small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight of
+three pounds, and commonly from one to two. The flesh is of a deep
+scarlet colour, and it is rather inclined to rock.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive melon in bearing; but in
+order to obtain them good flavoured no more than one fruit must be
+suffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the lights are large,
+when two may be allowed, that is, six in a light; but if, however, the
+plants are confined to one fruit, a second crop may be obtained.
+
+The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in appearance, and much
+approved of by some gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for a
+rock; but it will not, however, keep long, soon loses its flavour, and
+the colour changes very yellow; it is also extremely tender in its
+growth, and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock; neither is it
+so handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, nor does it ripen any sooner.
+
+The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, with a thin skin, but
+generally small in its dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort of
+this kind that will grow from three to five pounds in weight.
+
+The Black Rock melon should not be sown later than the latter end of
+May; the Stroud and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the tenth of
+June; and the Early Cantaloupe about the twentieth of June.
+
+In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in having a good depth of
+earth, from a foot to eighteen inches will be necessary. When the hills
+are made for the very early melons, one large barrow-full of mould will
+be sufficient, which must be pressed down close with the hand. Those
+that are sown in March will require one barrow-full and a half, and
+those afterwards two. In applying this mould, put one barrow-full in
+first, and tread it down; then add the remainder, and press it close
+down with the hand. Procure some good holding loam of a greasy nature,
+such as is generally found in the marshes, which is the most preferable
+kind of soil for melons, and let it be well weathered before using. It
+ought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. Mix this with a sixth
+proportion of good rotten dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned over
+two or three different times, that it may be properly sweetened and
+incorporated together; taking care, however, that it is not broken too
+fine.
+
+The mould intended for the hills of the first crop should be lighter
+than for those grown afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixed
+with a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung; or an equal proportion
+of stiff loam and leaf mould. As mould is added after the plants have
+been ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take particular care
+that the roots are never exposed to the sun, but as soon as they make
+their appearance through the hills, increase the mould, in the
+proportion of a barrow-full to each hill for the early melon, and two,
+or even more, to the later one.
+
+In watering the plants, as the season advances, you must be regulated by
+the composition of the soil, and the temperature of the weather. If the
+soil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity that should be
+applied to light mould. If the weather is warm, much water is necessary,
+but if cold very little should be given, as too much moisture at that
+time will create the canker.
+
+Heat being materially requisite for preserving the growth of the melon,
+great care must be taken in keeping the bed well supplied with linings,
+which must be added until the weather becomes fine and settled; they
+will generally be required until the beginning of June; but if the
+season is even then cold, it is better to continue them longer.
+
+In covering up the early plants, at the first ridging out, a single or
+double mat will be sufficient; after that add a little hay, and increase
+it if the weather is cold. This should be continued until the middle of
+June, or later, if the season is unfavourable.
+
+Many gardeners being unacquainted with the proper mode of training and
+topping the melon, and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set the
+fruit, the Author will here give the method always pursued by himself,
+which, if strictly observed, will be found to be attended with far less
+trouble, and more certain in its effect than the plan generally adopted.
+
+When the plants are potted off, top them at the second break; that is,
+let them grow to two leaves; then take out the break, which in some
+kinds is in the centre, and in others in the second leaf. If you require
+the fruit very fine, two plants will be sufficient in a light; but
+should there be no particular necessity in that respect, and the lights
+are sufficiently capacious, three may be matured extremely well.
+
+Have four runners to a light; that is, if two plants, two runners to
+each; but if three, two runners to one plant, and one to each of the
+other two. If the lights are large, they may be suffered to run to eight
+joints; but if, on the contrary, the lights are confined, six will be
+sufficient; and all other breaks that come out at home, with the first
+break that issues from the runners, should be effectually taken away, in
+order that the others may derive strength and nourishment. As soon as
+they make the first breaks from the runners, which by some are
+denominated cross bars, top them at the first joint, and in most sorts
+they will generally show fruit; but if it should so happen that this
+does not succeed, top them again, when they are certain of showing fruit
+at the second.
+
+If they are impregnated in the same manner as prescribed in the
+directions for the cucumber, there will be no difficulty in setting the
+fruit, which will also show much bolder, and possess greater strength
+when topped in close.
+
+Every description of melon will be brought to a greater degree of
+perfection, by being suffered to swell off on the first shows, which can
+alone be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if this is particularly
+attended to, no apprehension need be entertained of the fruit being
+small or delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, so it
+decreases the strength and vigour of the plants.
+
+Great care is necessary in watering the plants: when they are young, it
+should be applied with a rose; but as soon as the runners are extended
+all over the bed, that may be dispensed with. If the weather is dull, a
+small quantity of water will be sufficient; and if very fine, more must
+be applied carefully without a rose, which will be found beneficial in
+causing them to set more freely.[8] An insufficiency of moisture is an
+error too prevalent with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, and
+indeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in weight and flavour, may
+be greatly attributed to want of judgment in this particular; for if the
+plants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of which has been before
+stated, they are of course more open to the air, and the sun has greater
+power in drying up the soil, consequently the plants will become
+exhausted, and the fruit will ripen before its growth is properly
+matured.
+
+The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full time, will be five weeks
+from the period of setting before it ripens; the Stroud about six; the
+Scarlet seven; and the Black Rock upwards of seven; there will, however,
+be some difference between those forced early with bottom heat, and
+those grown late; the early ones coming to perfection three or four
+days, or even a week before the other.
+
+The proper time to sow for under-ground melons, that is, such as are
+grown without linings, is from the twenty-fifth of March to the
+twentieth of June; observing, at the same time, that those which are
+sown in March will require stronger beds than those that are set three
+weeks or a month later.
+
+The beds for the first should be formed of good dung, well worked, and
+three feet in height; whereas the latter will only require two feet. Dig
+a trench the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep; and if the
+soil is a strong good holding loam, it will answer the purpose for any
+description of rock melon; they requiring a strong soil to bring them to
+perfection; a light loam, however, may be used for the Early Cantaloupe.
+
+As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down well, make it even, and let
+it have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then put on
+the boxes and lights, and when the heat rises to its proper height,
+which will be in the course of three or four days, put the mould in for
+the hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a light, levelling
+it about an inch all over the bed, for the purpose of preventing the
+rank steam from injuring the plants. On the following day they may be
+ridged out, and watered, being very particular in sprinkling the bed
+regularly over. Admit air freely both night and day at first, until the
+bed is purified, and becomes perfectly sweet; this will be the case in
+about a week, when they may be shut down at night. Let the topping and
+training be the same as directed for the early ones.
+
+If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a bank may be made on
+the outside, at the back and front, about a foot or eighteen inches
+wide, which will prove a great support to the fruit, and cause them to
+grow much larger and finer; but if the soil is light and rich, by no
+means make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as mould of that
+description is not at all adapted for the production of fine melons. The
+only one that will in any degree thrive in light rich soil is the Early
+Cantaloupe; but any kind of the rock description will never come to
+perfection.
+
+It is here necessary to observe that it is impossible ever to obtain
+fine or good flavoured fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on a
+plant at a time, as that support which is essential and ought to be
+directed to one object, by becoming divided, is insufficient for the
+perfection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, and renders it of
+little or no value.
+
+Many horticulturists experience much difficulty from the effects of the
+red spider and canker in melons; the former being caused by keeping them
+too dry, and the latter arising from too much moisture. In order to
+avoid these evils, the following directions should be particularly
+attended to. When the weather is hot, or there is a strong bottom heat,
+it is necessary to be free in the application of water, especially round
+the sides of the boxes; for when the plants cover the bed, it will not
+be requisite to give any in the centre over the stems.
+
+When the plants cover the surface of the bed always water without a
+rose, observing that it should be invariably done in the morning, and
+when the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines to get dry before
+night, which will not be the case, if it is applied in the afternoon;
+and should the following day be dull, and perhaps continue so for three
+or four, the vines will remain wet, and then there is every probability
+of their getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from a cold chill,
+created by unnecessary moisture.
+
+The canker is a very destructive disorder, and extremely difficult to
+eradicate. The only means that can be adopted, or likely to prove
+beneficial, is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to give a good
+heat; being careful, at the same time, not to run into the other
+extreme, and create the red spider. If, however, the plants are kept
+thin of vine, and water is applied in the manner before directed, no
+fear need be entertained of either of the above disorders.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] The Author has in his possession a sort of this description, from
+which he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds in weight.
+
+[8] As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, it will be
+necessary to shade them from the extreme violence of the heat. Mats are
+generally made use of, but the Author considers evergreen boughs far
+preferable, as the former entirely precludes the sun, whereas the latter
+is beneficial to the plants, in admitting it partially. This will be
+generally requisite from about ten until two; and at that time, in
+proportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air must be
+admitted.
+
+
+
+
+DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR
+
+Early and late Melons.
+
+
+_Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons._
+
+The wood-work should be of the same thickness, as those directed for
+early cucumbers, and the boxes of the same length; but two feet deep at
+the back, five feet wide, and one foot three inches in the front.
+
+
+_For Melons sown from the middle of February until the latter end of
+March, grown with linings._
+
+The boxes and lights to be the same in thickness, length, and depth;
+five feet six inches wide; four bars to a light, with a small iron bar
+across the middle, in the inside, under the lead-work.
+
+
+_For late Melons, grown without Linings._
+
+The boxes and lights to be the same as those before described, with the
+exception of being eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven inches in
+the front.
+
+
+_Brick Pits._
+
+Let these be formed of nine inch brick-work, sunk one foot under-ground;
+five feet high at the back, by three feet six inches in the front, from
+the bottom; and six feet wide in the inside. Let the lights be three
+feet eight inches wide.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the
+cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins
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+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON ***
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