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diff --git a/27548.txt b/27548.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bf0cf31 --- /dev/null +++ b/27548.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2040 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the +cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The art of promoting the growth of the cucumber and melon + in a series of directions for the best means to be adopted + in bringing them to a complete state of perfection + +Author: Thomas Watkins + +Release Date: December 16, 2008 [EBook #27548] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE + +Cucumber and Melon; + +IN A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS + +FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED IN BRINGING THEM TO + +_A COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION_. + + * * * * * + +BY + +THOMAS WATKINS, + +_Many Years Foreman with Mr. Grange, of Hackney, and now with W. Knight, +Esq. Highbury Park._ + + * * * * * + +LONDON: + +PUBLISHED BY HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET; + +AND SOLD BY GRANGE AND DULLY, FRUITERERS, COVENT GARDEN; MASON AND SON, +SEEDSMEN, FLEET STREET; WARNER AND CO. SEEDSMEN, CORNHILL; GARRAWAY, +NURSERY AND SEEDSMAN, NEAR MARYLAND POINT, STRATFORD, ESSEX; AND BY THE +AUTHOR, AT HIGHBURY. + +1824. + + * * * * * + +PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN. + + * * * * * + +THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE + +Cucumber and Melon. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The author begs to inform the purchasers of this work, that it was +originally his intention to have given an engraving of the particular +description of cucumber and melon, which he has been so successful in +bringing to a state of perfection; and, in fact, a plate was executed, +at a considerable expense, for that purpose. Finding, however, that +although accurate in its representation of _fine_ fruit, it did not +pourtray the difference, nor convey the precise idea of those qualities +which constitute the superiority of the author's; and aware that such +would have been obvious to every experienced gardener, the design was +necessarily abandoned, trusting, that as it was merely intended for an +embellishment, its deficiency will not render the work less valuable to +the profession. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +The Cucumber Seed-bed for October Page 1 + +The Fruiting Frame for early Plants 14 + +The Seed-bed for January 43 + +On the Culture of the late Cucumber 46 + +On the Hand-glass Cucumber 51 + +Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and late Cucumbers 59 + +On the Culture of early and late Melons 65 + +Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto 83 + + + + +Preface. + + +Having, when young, imbibed a particular inclination to study the +culture of the cucumber and melon, under the direction of my father, +whose character as an early framer was in high repute, I assiduously +tried every experiment which was calculated to improve upon his system, +by bringing them to a more complete state of perfection. + +In marking the progress of their growth, I usually committed to writing +those plans which I had found to have been productive of beneficial +effects. The result of these remarks has proved the compilation of the +following treatise, undertaken at the request of several +horticulturists, who have expressed their desire to become acquainted +with the process of my mode of cultivation. + +Considering it superfluous to enlarge this work by unnecessary or +controversial observations, I have confined myself entirely to those +directions, upon which I have uniformly acted; and have endeavoured to +reduce them into as plain and simple a form as possible; at the same +time observing to omit nothing which can be of utility in this difficult +and hitherto imperfectly understood branch of horticulture. + +Several gardeners, who are now very eminent in their profession, have +placed themselves under my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectly +satisfied that the instruction they received, was fully adequate to the +compensation required; and perfectly convinced them of the superiority +of my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, that the advice given to +such practitioners is contained in the following directions. + +My principal object in the different experiments I have tried, has +always been to discover an easy, as well as a certain method of maturing +these delicate plants, and, in consequence, have avoided, as much as +possible, any artificial means that might be attended with difficulty or +expense. + +The only writer I know upon this subject, with the exception of +Abercrombie, whose system is now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phail, +gardener to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published a treatise in the +year 1795, in which he strenuously recommends brick pits for cucumbers +and melons, as far superior to the dung bed. It will be obvious, +however, to every person who has perused that work, that the plan was +adopted merely through deficiency of knowledge in the proper management +of the dung bed; for Mr. M'Phail asserts, that upon first attempting to +produce early cucumbers in Lord Hawkesbury's garden, he completely +failed, and was, in consequence, induced to apply to some horticulturist +in the neighbourhood, to whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas for his +instruction. The principal thing he appears to have been taught, was to +keep the burning heat of the dung about the roots of the plants down by +the continual application of water into the bed; which, however, he +found insufficient to preserve them in a thriving state, throughout the +winter months. This caused him to assert that it was out of the power of +any person to keep a dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable to +rear them at that time of the year. To this I have only to observe, that +the following directions will prove a contradiction; for if they are +strictly attended to, no fear need be entertained of their vigorous +growth, either from the premature season, or the inclemency of the +weather. + +In December and January, although their health is certain, I must allow +that they do not grow so fast as in other months; and this is the +particular time when difficulty is experienced by those who are +unacquainted with the proper means to be adopted, although, perhaps, +their efforts may have been attended with far more trouble than the +rules here prescribed. + +The dung bed is certainly of the greatest importance both in the culture +of the cucumber and melon; and want of knowledge in the management is +generally the cause of the loss of the plants in the winter season, by +the settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which cannot be removed +without assistance from the sun: particular attention, therefore, to the +directions given upon that point is highly necessary; indeed, it cannot +be too strongly impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that upon +this greatly depends the success of his endeavours to mature them to any +degree of perfection. + +In the remarks upon preserving the plants from a cold moisture, in the +most inclement weather, I have called to assistance what may be +technically termed an artificial sun; and as this most material point +may be perfectly understood I shall here describe it more particularly. + +Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly the top of the box with hay, +straw, or any kind of sweet litter; observing that hay, however +damaged, is certainly preferable; this will have the desired effect in +promoting a top heat, and obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, in +keeping the plants perfectly dry. + +To those who are unacquainted with the management of a dung bed, a brick +one certainly appears more advantageous, in being attended with less +trouble to the horticulturist, though infinitely with more expense, both +in the building and consumption of dung: this, however, is a mistaken +idea, for nothing certainly can be more congenial to the growth of +either the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat: this essential +requisite, which may always be obtained by the process hereafter +described, can be but partially promoted in brick pits; for although +water, in its necessary application, may create a steam heat, it soon +evaporates; and the heat of the linings having to pass through the +bricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite incapable of affording any +nourishment to the plants. + +The limited space in which the plants are confined in their growth by +brick pits, is also a very great objection to this mode of culture. That +they derive their chief support from the extremity of the roots must be +obvious to every one, and if these are concentred in the middle of the +bed, and thereby rendered incapable of expanding over the flues as in +the dung bed, they must be certainly deprived of that vigour which is +natural to them from a free and uninterrupted growth, and where they +experience the whole of the benefit that can arise from the bed in which +they are placed. In short, the dung bed in so many instances is superior +to brick pits, that competition in the culture of either the cucumber or +melon by the latter plan would be entirely useless; for whether in the +vigour of the plants, quickness of growth, or production of fine fruit, +the dung bed, systematically attended to, as described in this treatise, +will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive means are not always +attended with the most beneficial results. + +In the following directions, the first thing I have taken notice of, is +the early cucumber, as being the most difficult, and consequently the +most particular in its process of culture. Strict attention and +perseverance in the method prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to a +complete state of perfection within the time limited. + +Secondly--The necessary directions will be found for promoting the +growth of such cucumbers as are sown in January. It is here necessary to +observe, that this is the most preferable season for those which are +not required so very early; as the increasing temperature of the weather +in the course of their growth, affords facility for their being matured +with a greater degree of strength. + +Thirdly--The method of bringing to perfection the late frame, or spring +sown cucumber. The directions upon this head will be found extremely +useful, both to young practitioners, and those who are not professed +horticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate their own gardens, and are +desirous of possessing a cucumber bed, will find the information here +given of great utility. + +Fourthly--In treating upon the process necessary for the management of +the hand-glass cucumber in the summer months, I have offered an improved +system, which will be found of considerable importance to gardeners in +general in enhancing the value of their fruit, by rendering it much +superior to that produced by the common method. + +The directions I have given with regard to the melon, will be found to +explode all that difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined exists +in the production of this choice fruit. The description given of my +method of culture, will at once evince the simplicity of its process, +and show the certainty of its result. + +Having explained the motives which induced me to undertake this work, I +have only to observe, that the system has been productive of great +advantage to myself, in enabling me to supersede my contemporaries in +several annual shows, by obtaining the prize; and, to render this +effective to every person, the principal thing required, as before +mentioned, is attention and perseverance in the rules prescribed; and +those who adopt them will, I am confident, acknowledge their utility, +and be sensible of the benefits that must eventually arise from a +practical improvement in this particular branch of horticulture. + +THOMAS WATKINS. + +Highbury Park, January 30, 1824. + + + + +THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE + +Cucumber and Melon. + + * * * * * + +ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. + + * * * * * + +THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER: + +_To be sown from the 10th to the 20th of the Month._ + + +One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows-full, will be sufficient for a +one-light box, and let it be put together at least three weeks before +making the bed, in a round or square heap, being particular in well +treading it down. If the dung is dry, it will be necessary to give it +some water; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. Let it lay in +this state a week, and then turn it, shaking the outsides of the heap +into the middle, and give it some more water. In doing this, it is +requisite that the heap should be well shook to pieces, and trod down. +Let it lay another week, at the expiration of which, observe the same +directions as before given, applying the quantity of water in proportion +to the dry nature of the dung. At the end of the third week, it will be +in a proper condition to make use of, as by that time it will be +sufficiently moist and hot, the necessary state in which it should be, +before the formation of the bed. + +As much depends upon the nature of the dung, and its proper condition, +great attention should be paid, and some judgment exercised in the means +best calculated to prepare it for a state of fermentation. The most +certain method that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a beneficial +result is, in the summer months, to pack the dung you intend to make use +of for the October seed-bed as close together as possible, taking care +to keep it dry, that it may retain its virtue. This sort of dung is far +preferable to that newly made, being less rank and not so liable to +burn; and when under a state of preparation, by turning and moistening, +as before described, it will be in a much better condition than any that +can be fresh procured.[1] + +Before forming the bed, let the bottom be made in the following +manner:--Raise the ground about six inches above the level with road +sand or mould, upon the top of which place some fagots, or other kind of +wood, to the height of a foot, in order that the bed may be well +drained. If there is an insufficiency of dung, you can add a foot of dry +rubbish, such as strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose stuff. +Let the bottom be extended nine inches wider than the frame you intend +to make use of, the height of the bed being at the back four feet, and +in the front, three feet nine inches. Beat it well down with a fork; +then put the box on, and fill it three parts full with the shovellings +of the dung that is left; after which, place on the light, and let it be +close shut down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, admit air by +opening the frame about an inch: when it increases, so as to become very +hot, admit more air, by extending the aperture to two inches. It must +remain in this situation about a week; then fork it up above a foot +deep, and if caked together, or in the least dry, give it more water. +From two to four pots is generally sufficient; but the quantity must be +regulated by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to observe, that +moisture is of most important consequence to the seed-bed, and nothing +is so well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from impurity as water. + +In two or three days after forking up, it will be necessary to take off +the box and light, for the purpose of making the bed even. In doing +this, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, and shake it to pieces; +then put on the box again, and give the light one or two inches of air, +according to the temperature of the weather. + +It will now be necessary to wrap up the bed with straw, pea-halm, or +hay, about eighteen inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in gradually +to a foot wide, within three inches of the top of the box. + +In three or four days stir up the bed in the same manner as before, +observing that if it be in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat, +to give it three or more pots of water, as shall seem necessary. It must +be stirred up again in three or four days, and beat down gently with a +fork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the old tan or mould in +which the seed is to be deposited. + +A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or three weeks before the seed +is attempted to be sown; as many evil consequences are to be apprehended +from sowing it before, from the firing of the bed, or the impure nature +of the dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the plants will not +be brought to that degree of perfection, as might reasonably be expected +from a bed in its proper heat and condition.[2] + +After the bed has been laid and dealt with according to the foregoing +directions, spread two barrows-full of old tan or light mould all over +the surface, having it a little deeper in the middle than at the sides. +Old tan is certainly more preferable than mould, though either will +answer the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day before the seed +is sown, and cover the bed up with a single mat at night, taking care to +shut it down until the morning, that the heat may be properly drawn up. +Take some forty-eight size pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould with +a sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. The sifting mould to a +fine degree is an error too prevalent in horticulture, and ought +particularly to be avoided, from its great tendency to bind. + +It is very requisite that a cucumber should have a good digestion, and +in order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes at +the bottom of the pots with broken pieces; then strew a little of the +rough siftings of the mould over it, and fill them up within half an +inch of the brim with the prepared mould and sand. Shake it down a +little, and sow the seed[3] from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, just +covering it with a little mould; then give it a small quantity of water, +which for the first time may be cold, but great care must be taken in +the subsequent waterings, that it be chilled to about the warmth of new +milk. + +The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the bed up to the rim, and give +them about half an inch of air. At night they must be covered with a +single mat, taking care to turn it up at at the back, that the steam may +pass freely from the bed. Let the air be continued both night and day. + +After the seed has been sown three days, it will be up, when the pots +must be unplunged, placed on the surface, and some water given to them. +They will now require upwards of an inch of air, both night and day, +which will cause the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and prevent +their drawing. In about three days give them some more water in the +morning, and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon. + +Plants should be always potted off when young, as they strike more +freely in the pots; and, in doing this, the following directions should +be attended to. + +Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day before potting off, and let +it be of the same description as that in which the seed was sown. If the +pots are old and dirty, wash them, and be careful in having them +properly dried before they are made use of. Take some old rotten turf, +or a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, and place a small +quantity over the tile at the bottom of every pot; then fill them about +one-third full, put three plants in each, and cover the roots about an +inch. The pots must not be plunged, but placed on the surface, and some +water given them with a fine rose. + +It is necessary to have a small pot on purpose to water the plants, +which will contain about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, which +is much better calculated to water the plants regularly than a spreading +one. + +Be particular in watering them regular, which will be requisite every +two or three days, for the space of three weeks or a month at latest, +when they will be in a proper condition to ridge out. + +After the plants have been potted three days, add a little mould to +them, and repeat it every two or three days, for about a fortnight, +until the pot is quite filled. Much attention should be paid to this +method of putting in the mould, which experience has convinced the +author is far superior to the usual practice of filling the pots in the +first instance up to the seed-leaves of the plants. By the gradual mode +of filling, the plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain in its +growth of being dwarfish and strong, which cannot be insured by the +common method, as it tends considerably to weaken the plant, and renders +it very liable to fog off, before taking root. By potting them low, and +only just covering the roots at first, the stems of the plants become +hardened, and strike very freely upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumber +always decay when forced with a strong bottom heat. + +It will be necessary, after the plants have been potted about a week, +to examine the bed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there is any +fire heat. If such should be found to be the case, and the directions as +before given with regard to moisture have been strictly attended to, it +can only exist in the tan, which must immediately be supplied with +water, and, the day following, stirred well up together and levelled, +placing the pots upon the surface. In another week again examine the +bed, and if any fire heat still remains, attend to it as above; if not, +stir up the tan, and plunge the pots about half way down; being, +however, guided in this by the temperature of the bed, as plants sown in +October do not require so much heat as those in the three following +months. + +Observe, when the plants have been potted two or three days, to stir the +mould in the pots, round the plants, and likewise the tan, with a +sharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to freshen the plants, and +prevent any thing of a mouldy nature from injuring them. + +As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, top them, by taking out +the break that appears next, which may be easily done with the thumb and +finger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little more than a fortnight, they +will be in a fit state to top down; and in three weeks from the time of +sowing, ready to ridge out. + +At this time of the year, the bed will not require any lining; but +observe, that as the wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increase +it, pressing it down close to the box, and keeping it within one-third +of the top. + +If the plants are not ridged out when three weeks old, plunge them up to +the rim, until the fruiting frame is ready for their reception, which +ought to be at the latest when they are a month or five weeks old. If it +should happen, however, that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by no +means ridge them out until it is in a proper condition. After they are a +month old, increase the lining at the back and front, about four or five +barrows-full each, applying it in the following manner:--Remove the +wrapping down to the bottom, and extend the dung to the width of two +feet, and three parts as high as the bed; drawing it in to about +eighteen inches at the top. Cover the lining with the litter four inches +wide from the bottom, and three parts as high as the box, being +particularly careful in stopping up the inside, by pressing the tan +close to the box, about three inches above the bottom. As the lining +sinks, add a little wrapping to the top, formed of hay, or old litter +that is quite sweet. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its virtue from +six to nine months. + +[2] The heat required in October sown plants, while growing in the +seed-bed, is from sixty-five to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit's +thermometer. Should that temperature be exceeded in this season, they +will draw up very long: but after being ridged out, more heat will +become necessary; that is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees: and +the same is to be observed with young plants raised in the three +following months. + +[3] Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is three or +four years old, imagining that new will grow too vigorous, and not show +fruit or set so well; but in this they are much mistaken, the Author +knowing, from experience, that new seed, or at least not more than two +years old, is the best calculated for bringing to perfection both the +cucumber and melon; possessing the advantage of a greater freedom in +growth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old seed. + + + + +THE FRUITING FRAME, + +_For Plants sown in October, November, December, and January._ + + +Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a three-light box, and the +same in proportion to the number you intend to make use of. Let it be +put together a fortnight before the seed is sown; be very particular in +giving it plenty of water, and pack it close together. After it has laid +a week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with water. Let it continue in +this state another week, when the same directions as before given must +be observed; and, in a week more, the bed will be in a fit condition to +make up. + +The bottom must be prepared in the same manner as directed for the +seed-bed; then form the bed of dung four feet three inches at the back, +by four feet in the front, allowing for a cavity of about ten inches +between each box; then place the boxes on, and put the shovellings +inside, in the proportion of two or three barrows-full to a light. In +forming the bed, it is the best plan to make it in layers of about a +foot each, which will cause the dung to be much better mixed, than if +all finished at first, of an equal height. Be very particular in +separating the dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards beating it +well down with a fork. + +After the bed has been thus prepared, put the lights on, and shut them +down close until the heat begins to rise. When such is the case, give +them about an inch of air; and in three or four days wrap the bed all +round with dry litter or useless hay, eighteen inches wide from the +bottom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the bed, which will +greatly tend to promote a regular heat. As the careful wrapping up of +the bed is an essential requisite, means must be taken to keep it close, +and protect it from any injury that may arise in consequence of +tempestuous weather, this may be accomplished by means of sharp-pointed +sticks, with hooks in the form of a peg, and about the size and length +of a broom-stick. Thrust these through the litter into the bed, about +half way up, one to each light, at the back and front, and two at each +end. + +After the bed has been made about a week or ten days, take off the boxes +and lights, in order to level it, and let it have from four to six +inches fall from the back to the front; in this, however, you must be in +some degree guided by the form of the boxes, which it is necessary +should have a good fall, that the plants may derive benefit from the +sun; then fork up the bed about a foot deep, and again place on the +boxes and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both night and day. +In about four or five days it will be necessary to again fork it up, and +give it some water, in the proportion of two pots to a light. This must +be repeated every two or three days, until the bed is perfectly sweet, +which is usually the case in three or four weeks, applying water during +that time, according to the state of the bed. + +When you find that the bed is properly purified, put in the sifted leaf +mould. A three-light box will require a large barrow-full; the quantity +for a one-light being about four shovels. After this, add to the +wrapping some sweet litter or hay, increasing it to nearly the top of +the boxes, and apply about two pots of water to each of the cavities, +taking care to fill them up to nearly the tops of the boxes, with short +sweet mulshy litter. This is a point but very little known, yet of the +greatest importance in the culture of cucumbers; for when the weather +begins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and the boxes are placed +close together, in the usual manner, the outsides are very liable to +become damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is certain of doing the +plants material injury. + +Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three-light box, and at night +admit nearly two inches of air, covering them with a single mat; and if +on the following day the plants look well, they may be safely ridged +out. + +It is requisite that both the boxes and lights should be painted every +year, at least a month before they are wanted for use; but if this +cannot be conveniently done, be particular in washing them with boiling +water, in which some unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in some +measure answer the purpose of paint in effectually destroying the +vermin, or the eggs which may have been deposited in the crevices of the +wood. + +After the plants are ridged out, wash them every morning, on the +outside, and about once a week in the inside, which will tend to reflect +the light, and cause them to thrive much better. When you wash the +outside, push them down about two or three inches, which will prevent +the water from perishing the lining at the side of the boxes. If the +plants have received no injury, and are able to bear the heat of the +bed, ridge them out, letting the hills be about nine inches high, +covering the roots about an inch round, and being an inch higher than +they were when in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, rake it with +the hand all over the bed; then water the plants, taking care, at the +same time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the surface. Close them +down for the space of ten minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If the +weather is mild, in an hour it may be increased to two inches, and a +single mat only will be requisite at night. If, however, the weather is +windy, cover them at night with a double mat, or a single one and a +little hay. + +Be very particular in allowing them plenty of air, especially of a +night, taking care, however, to regulate this by the temperature of the +weather. If there is much wind, they will of course require less air; +but, at all events, it is better to give too much than otherwise, more +particularly at the first ridging out, as the weather at this season +being frequently subject to sudden changes, which, should it occur in +the night, and the plants are too confined, or the least rankness +existing in the bed, they are sure to experience material injury, which, +at this time of year, it is very improbable they will ever recover; or, +if with extreme difficulty, they should be brought round, they can never +be expected to grow to any degree of perfection. + +Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to the depth of about nine +inches, with a hand-fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, immediately +give water to the part affected, that being the only effectual remedy +that can be applied. Be careful in forking close to the bottom of the +hills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in this place, bore +several holes at the bottom of the hills, and apply plenty of water. + +Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or eight inches long, for the +purpose of stirring the mould round the plants, in a similar manner to +hoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much refresh the plants, and +should be attended to while they are young, for at least two months the +day after they have been watered. + +As soon as the roots begin to be visible through the hills, add three +shovels-full of unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being very +careful not to mould too freely, until the beginning of February, as the +plants from the middle of December to the middle of January, lie in a +dormant state; consequently, too large a quantity of mould at this +season, will be attended with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, and +preventing the heat of the bed rising in a free and proper manner. + +This being the season when plants are most exposed to injury, and are +frequently lost, great care and attention is necessary for their +preservation from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the linings well +up, and giving a good top covering. If the weather is intense, they will +require eight or nine inches covering of hay, and water only once a +week. + +As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have dung in for a lining, +which should always be put in the front and sides first. When the dung +has been put together a week, turn it, and at the end of another it +will be fit for use; one load being sufficient for a three-light box. +After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three weeks at the +farthest, it will be necessary to line the bed to the width of about two +feet, and three parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope of +about six inches towards the top. When the dung has been put about half +way up, tread it, and then add the remainder, beating it well down with +a fork. Cover the lining with litter about three or four inches thick at +the outside, and within one or two inches of the top of the box; then +place a board at the top about nine inches wide, which will keep it +close, and assist in drawing up the heat. Be particularly careful in +stopping the inside next to the box, when you make a fresh lining, and +beat it close down with the hand about two or three inches above the +bottom. + +When a fresh lining has been added, have the dung in readiness for the +back, which will be required about a fortnight afterwards. It should be +formed about two feet six inches wide, well trod down, and wrapped up in +the same manner as the front, within three inches of the top of the +box. Be careful that the litter is not rank; old useless hay, or litter +that has been some time laying by, will be preferable. The same +directions must be attended to in stopping up the inside of the box, as +with the front. + +As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree affects the bed, and you +discover that the inside, where it has been stopped, begins to get dry, +give it some water in the evening, just before covering up, for about a +week or ten days, which will be the means of keeping the rankness down, +and causing a sweet steam heat to rise. + +As the lining settles, press it down with a spade next the box, and add +more litter upon the top, which should be done every other day, +observing that when you increase one lining to have the dung in +readiness for the next; each lining not being calculated to last more +than a month or five weeks; though the back one will not want renewing +quite so often as the front. When you apply the second front lining, it +will be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake or mop-stick, +making five holes to a three-light box; that is, one under each hill, +and two under the bars: bore them straight rather better than half way +up the bed, so that when the second back lining is applied, holes may be +bored exactly opposite to the others. This will cause a free circulation +of the heat from one lining to the other, and prove not only of great +service in regulating the temperature of the bed, but of equal advantage +in draining off the surplus water. Take care when you add a fresh +lining, to keep the holes open. + +As the linings draw the boxes down, they will require rising with boards +and bricks. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to provide +some small pieces of board, rather larger than a brick, placing one of +each, with a brick, under the corners of the boxes; and, as the bed +settles, increase the number of bricks. When you raise the boxes, stop +up the bed with rotten moist dung, and close up the inside about two or +three inches above the bottom of the box. + +The plants should be always topped when young, at the first joint, as +before directed; then let them run two joints twice following;[4] +afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, except it be blind, +which may be easily ascertained by close examination; if you find such +to be the case, let it run another joint before it is topped. + +It is necessary that the plants should be continued in leaf mould until +the middle of January, as there is no other in which they will thrive so +well at that season of the year. Their peculiar and tender nature bears +a strong resemblance to young children, in the care requisite for their +nurture and growth. They require light nourishment, that will easily +digest; and no soil is so well calculated for this purpose as +leaf-mould, mixed with a little grit; from its excellent properties in +absorbing the water. + +In ridging out the plants, one thing must be attended to in the +preparation of the bed, which has not been before mentioned. Hollow the +bed out to the depth of about four inches in the middle, so that if the +weather is cold or windy, the dung may be pulled down half way up the +hills, when it will be nearly level about the bed; but as soon as the +weather becomes mild, it must be drawn away again, or otherwise the heat +will be too violent for the roots. As mould is added to the roots, draw +the dung away level with the bottom of the hill; then put it half way up +again, being, however, regulated in this by the heat of the bed, and the +temperature of the weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts of +the bed, take the dung out which has been placed round them, and level +it with nearly the bottom of the box, leaving three or four inches +round the sides to keep out the rankness from the linings, as before +directed. + +In covering up the plants, a single mat will be sufficient, until they +have been ridged out a fortnight, unless the weather is windy or very +cold; in such case, make use of a double mat or a little hay; be +careful, at the same time, not to give them too much covering at first, +as it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow very weak; in this, +however, you must be in some degree guided by the heat of the bed, and +the temperature of the weather. When there is a good heat, and the +weather is still, they will require less; but if there is much wind, or +the air is very cold, it must of course be increased. It seldom occurs +that plants require much covering until a fortnight before Christmas, +when it will be found necessary, if the weather is moderate, to cover +them from four to six inches. Instances have occurred, when the author +has been obliged to increase the covering to a foot in thickness, from +the intense cold; but this, however, is seldom the case; and from four +to six inches may generally be considered sufficient from December to +April. As the sun increases, and the nights become milder, reduce the +covering to three or four inches, until May; from whence to June a +single mat, or a little hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weather +is now seasonable, and the nights warm, they will not require any +covering, but should this not be the case, it is better to continue it +even until Midsummer. + +Take particular care when covering up, after a fresh lining has been put +to the bed, that the mats or hay does not hang over the lights for at +least a fortnight, as such will draw the rank steam into the bed, and +kill the plants. + +The linings should be continued until the weather is fine and settled, +which may be expected in the middle of May; but should the weather be +cold and unfavourable, it may be necessary to retain them until the +middle of June. + +In about the third week of the month of January, the plants will +require stronger food; and half bog and half leaf mould may be applied. +Should there be a difficulty in obtaining bog earth, procure the top +spit of light meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at the least, +six months before it is wanted for use. When you mould towards the +outside, it may be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf mould, in +the proportion of one-fourth, with bog or light meadow earth; observing, +however, not to mould up the plants level until some time after fruit +has been cut. The beginning of March is the proper time to mould up +full. + +Let a cavity be left at the back and front of the box of about two +inches, to prevent the roots from being injured on the outside of the +box by the linings; and to cause the heat to rise freely from the bed. + +It is very necessary that the plants should be kept thin of vine, as +being material in the growth of fine fruit; and as they extend towards +the outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run more than one joint +at a time. + +Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the oldest first, in order that +they may stand single, and not one over the other; to accomplish which +it will be necessary to peg them out. When taking off the leaves, cut +them close to the vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot and +injure the plants. When they are laid, be particular in having the +plants down close to the mould, as early as possible, in order that they +may strike root; at the same time being careful not to bury the vine. In +doing this, place a little mould round the side of the vine first, +leaving the top uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the roots +begin to strike. When such is the case, cover the vine all over, and +then you may continue laying within one joint of the extremity. + +It is here necessary to observe, that very few are acquainted with the +advantages that may be derived from laying the plants in a proper +manner. Many even, who are in the habit of observing this method, +practice it so slightly, that little if any benefit results from it; and +by far the greatest number of horticulturists take no notice of it +whatever. Laying is certainly a most material point in the culture of +the early cucumber; and it is impossible to ensure a good crop without a +strict attention to it: in fact, the Author principally attributes his +success in the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care in this +particular. It should be done every fortnight or three weeks after the +plants have come into bearing; and, if continued in a regular manner, +good fruit may be obtained until October. Some imagine that October sown +plants will soon be worn out, after producing a few cucumbers early; but +this is a mistaken idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, they +will bear good fruit equally as long as any young plants sown in the +spring. Leaf-mould, mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing to +lay them in until the latter end of March, when you may add a stronger +soil, composed of one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed with +bog or light meadow earth. + +Soft water is essentially necessary for the plants, as hard is almost +certain of producing the canker, unless particular means are adopted to +prevent it. In some situations it may be impossible to obtain soft +water; in such a case, let the water stand in a tub for at least +twenty-four hours; if two or three days even it will be the better, as +in that time it will be in some degree softened by the sun, and the raw +coldness expelled from it. + +After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps dung is an excellent +thing to mix with the water, if used in a moderate manner. The following +proportion will be necessary:--To six pots of water put in the tub one +shovel-full of dung; let this be stirred up continually for the space of +two or three days, and when wanted for use, it must be again well +stirred up. In watering with this mixture, be particular in having a +small thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it may be easily poured +under the leaves. A gallon or six quarts will be a sufficient quantity +for one light, and in watering be careful that it is not sprinkled over +the leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed with the water, will be found very +beneficial to the plants, if used moderately, as too great a freedom +will tend to injure them. + +When the plants are first ridged out, they will require water every +third day, until about the middle of December; and when applied, it must +be sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing to give a larger +quantity where the heat seems most to prevail. In general more water is +requisite at the back than the front: unless there is much heat in the +front from the middle of December until the middle of January, once in +five or six days will be sufficient to water the plants. Round the side +of the box, and at the back, however, should be watered every night, +while there is much heat. About two or three quarts of water at each +time to a light will be sufficient for the plants until the middle of +January and from that time more will be necessary. In applying the water +you must be guided in a great measure by the state of the weather. Take +the opportunity of watering when the sun is out, and then close them +down for about a quarter of an hour or more, according to the season of +the year. At all times, before watering, admit double the usual quantity +of air about a quarter of an hour previous to the application, for the +purpose of hardening the plants. + +Water may be applied at any time of the day, if the heat is good, but +the most preferable time is certainly about eleven o'clock in the +morning, particularly as the season advances towards the months of April +and May, and the weather becomes more temperate, and the sun has greater +power. After they are watered, shut them down for about ten minutes or a +quarter of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a clear sun; then +shade them with a mat for two or three hours, and shut the frame close +down, in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be produced, which will +cause the fruit to swell very quick. At one or two o'clock take off the +mat and admit a little air. When the sun is clear and the weather hot, +let them be shaded from eleven to two o'clock; some evergreen boughs or +pea-sticks are very good things. + +Should the above directions be found inconvenient to attend to, the +difficulty may be obviated by adopting the following method. After the +plants are watered in a morning, shut them down, for the space of about +ten minutes, then give them a little air; in about the same time +increase it, and so gradually until the proper quantity is admitted. The +gradual admission of air is extremely important, and ought, therefore, +to be particularly attended to. + +The frames should never be shut down too long in the morning of the +spring and summer months; a little air should be given at eight o'clock, +if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be necessary to increase it; +afterwards attending to it according to the state of the weather. + +In order to produce fine fruit in the early part of the season, that is +in February and March; let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep the +male blossoms rubbed off when young, to prevent their weakening the +plants; the best method of doing which is with a small pointed stick. + +As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave a few male blossoms to +set the fruit with. If this be not attended to in the early part of the +season[5] the fruit will not swell off, as it is the female blossom +alone that bears it, and if these be not impregnated with the male they +will prove unfruitful. The female flower may easily be distinguished +from the male, by the appearance of the fruit at the bottom of the +blossom which the other does not possess. + +When the female flower is in full bloom, take a male blossom which is in +full bloom also, and hold it in one hand, with the other split it down, +and tear off the flowers, being careful at the same time not to injure +the male part; then hold the male blossom between the forefinger and +thumb of the right hand, while the female flower is held between the +middle and forefinger of the left hand; then put the male blossom in the +centre of the female, and the farina will adhere to it, and have the +desired effect; should it, however, happen to fall out after it is done, +it is of no consequence whatever, as the impregnation is received the +instant it is put in. + +The proper time to set the fruit is in the morning, as it always comes +in bloom at night, and if left until the afternoon the blossom of the +fruit closes a little, in consequence of which it is doubtful whether +fruition will be effected. + +In order to ascertain whether the male blossom is good; after you have +prepared it as above described for use, draw the farina, or genitals, +across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave a glutinous substance +resembling gum. + +As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your finger let no more than +one be upon a plant at a time to swell off, and when beginning to grow +crooked give the stalk end a twist, place them on their backs, put a peg +to the side, and the heat of the bed will soon draw them down and make +them straight. + +A cucumber is a plant that requires much water, particularly when +bearing fruit: it will be necessary then to give from one to two gallons +each time according to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the +weather. If the season is fine and the heat good they will require water +every other day, but if the weather is dull, and the heat slack, be very +cautious in applying the water lest they should get the canker, which is +a dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be removed. The best thing +in such a case is to give a strong heat, and be very moderate in the +application of water. + +After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight it will be necessary +to shut them down in the afternoon, about an hour before they are +covered up. They will, however, require air in the night, generally till +the fruit is cut, and even then if the weather is mild; for by being +kept close at night when there is a strong heat, the fruit is liable to +change colour and become of a yellow cast. + +The plants should be uncovered in a morning by eight o'clock, or nine at +farthest, in the winter, and six or seven as the season advances, unless +the weather is very cold or windy, when they may remain an hour longer +than usual. + +Should the frame be infested with woodlice, place some cabbage-leaves or +a small quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer the purpose of a +trap to collect them, when they may be easily destroyed by boiling +water. Care, however, is necessary in this expedient, for should the +plants have taken root at the side of the box, the hot water will +materially injure them; but if the plants are kept healthy, little +danger is to be apprehended from this description of vermin, as they +always like a sickly stagnated plant to a thriving vigorous one. Mice +are sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be destroyed by procuring +from a Chemist some ground ox vomicae, and applying it in the following +manner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it up well, and let it boil +about ten minutes; take it off the fire and put in some wheat or +cucumber seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours; or spread some +ox vomicae not boiled upon bread and fresh butter, place this in the bed +near the holes at which they enter, which will effectually extirpate +them. + +With regard to the time of cutting fruit[6] from October sown plants, +much depends upon the weather, some seasons being much finer than +others. Fruit from the October seed has been cut off by the Author as +early as the middle of January, while at another time it has been as +late as the beginning of March; he, however, is well satisfied if it is +ready to cut by the middle of February: indeed, upon an average this may +be fairly considered as the probable time for its mature growth. + +It is not advisable in any young beginner to sow seed in November or +December until about the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grown +in that season are very liable to be retarded in their growth, while +those sown from about the twentieth of December to the beginning of +January will grow much stronger and quicker, as they possess the +advantage of the increase of the season. An experienced framer, however, +can grow plants at any time of the year, and from those sown at the +above time, he may expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March or +towards the latter end of that month, according to the weather; much +depending upon that and the situation of the framing grounds, which +should at all times be open to the sun, and defended from the winds. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[4] The Author would recommend January-sown plants, after having been +topped at the first joint, to run four joints, then topped again at the +first joint, when they will generally show fruit, and, if properly +attended to, will swell off to seven or eight inches in length, as the +first shows do not come so fine as those afterwards. Do not let more +than one fruit swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause them to +grow ill-shaped, and not near so fine. + +[5] There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the latter end of +May, as by that time the bees will find their way to the frames, and +prove equally effective. + +[6] The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only makes use of +three kinds of frame cucumber, which he considers preferable to all the +others. One is a long black prickly fruit, with a fine bloom and short +handle, well filled up. It will sometimes grow for table to the length +of fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to twelve. It is an excellent +bearer, but not so well adapted for October sowing as the other two +kinds, from its tender qualities, being thin leaved and less hardy: it +is, however, a very good sort for January and spring sowing. The other +two kinds very much resemble each other, and will frequently grow to the +length of twelve inches, filled up in the handle, black, prickly, and +carry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions are from eight to ten inches; +being thick-leaved and particularly hardy. Both these are well +calculated for the October bed, and excellent bearers for spring sowing. +The Author obtained them both by impregnating; and those who purchase +the work of him, may be accommodated with a few of the seeds of either +of the above, gratis. + + + + +THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY. + +_To be sown in the beginning of the Month._ + + +As this is the season in which Gardeners in general sow seed for +cucumbers, it will be necessary to take notice of a few directions which +vary from the October seed-bed. + +At this time of the year young plants are much slower in their growth, +and more difficult to be reared than in October, consequently they +require a stronger bottom bed, though made in the same manner as above +directed. The dung must undergo the same process in working, but should +be six inches higher; it will also require more wrapping and covering, +particularly if the weather is very cold; in this, however, as before, +you must be guided by the temperature of the season; taking care not to +cover too much at first. For the first fortnight a double mat will be +sufficient; and after that, if the weather is intense, increase the +covering, by adding hay to the thickness of six or nine inches, with a +mat over it. Air should be admitted night and day, according to the +state of the weather; but they may be closed down for about an hour, +before covering up, after they are a fortnight old. + +The plants should be ridged out young, at least when they are a month +old; but be very particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly sweet +before they are placed in it, as it is much better to keep them in the +pots a week, or even a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge them +out before the bed is in a proper condition. + +Be careful in keeping a good heat; in having the lining applied in +proper time; and in well wrapping them up. The lining will be required +when they are three weeks old at the back and front. It should be two +feet wide about half way up the bed, and lined with litter to the width +of six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining in a proper +condition: wrap it up also within three inches of the top, drawing it in +gradually to about eighteen inches wide. With the exception of the +foregoing directions, the method of treatment must be exactly the same +as given in the Seed-bed for October. + + + + +ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE + +Late Cucumber. + + +The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, that is, such as are grown in +boxes and lights, and have no necessity for linings, is from the middle +of March to the middle of April; and after that time seed may be put in +for the hand-glass. + +Those that are sown in the middle of March will require stronger beds +than those sown a fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should be +made from two feet six inches to three feet high; while the latter will +not require beds higher than two feet. + +Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep, +and if the soil is light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may be +formed of it; but if a strong loam it will not answer the purpose. + +As soon as the bed is made tread it down well, make it even, and let it +have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then place on the +boxes and light; and when the heat rises, admit from one to two inches +of air. In about a week it will be necessary to put the mould in for the +hills in the proportion of a barrow-full to a light. This must be +levelled about an inch all over the bed to prevent the rank steam from +injuring the plants. On the following day they may be ridged out, when +the mould must be pressed with the hands close down round the roots of +the plants; and water applied, which should be at the same time +sprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now plenty of air, night and +day, until the bed becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the case +in about a week; after which they may be shut down at night. + +Let the topping be the same as directed for the Seed-bed in October; if +the soil is light and rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot or +eighteen inches wide, and as high, or even higher than the bottom of the +box. This will prove a great support to the plants; be the means of +producing an abundant crop of fruit; and obviate the necessity of +laying; which must otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, or +the boxes are unusually large. Should laying, however, be preferred, +great attention must be paid to it, and the same method adopted as +prescribed for the early cucumber. + +Particular care is requisite in the culture of the late cucumber to +preserve it from the canker; the best means that can be adopted to +prevent this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and always apply soft +water. This should be given in the morning, or, if not then convenient, +never later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when the vines will +have an opportunity of drying before night: a fine day should always be +taken advantage of for this purpose, which will tend considerably to +accelerate their growth. Admit a double quantity of air for a quarter +of an hour before watering; and while the nights continue cold, be +careful in keeping them covered up. In some seasons, when the weather is +inclement, it will be necessary to observe this even until Midsummer. + +By strict attention to the foregoing directions, no danger need be +apprehended from the canker, as it generally proceeds from a cold chill; +suffering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which keeps them +continually moist; and not admitting a sufficient quantity of air +necessary to harden them. + +In ridging out the plants, put two in small lights and three in larger +ones; and when the roots appear through the hills, add mould to them; +observing, that they will require moulding up much quicker than those +grown at the early season: in fact, after they have been ridged out +about a fortnight or three weeks, it will be necessary to mould them up +fully. + +If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons of water for each light +will be necessary every two or three days. + +Keep them pegged and laid about once a fortnight; and be particular also +in having them thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then allowing +them to run four, and afterwards topping them again at the first, as +before mentioned in the January sown plants. By observing these +directions, a good crop of fruit may be ensured, which will be ready to +cut in about a month or five weeks after they have been ridged out. + + + + +ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE + +Hand-glass Cucumber. + + +The best time to sow for the hand-glass cucumber is from the middle of +April to the beginning of May; though they may be sown from the tenth of +April until the middle of May; and the plants may be grown in the early +cucumber or melon beds. + +When they are potted off, put three plants in each pot, being particular +in not filling them more than three parts full, as they are very liable +at this time of the year to draw up long in the stem. Merely cover the +roots with mould at first; in the course of two or three days add a +little more; and in about a week fill up the pots to the brim. + +It is necessary to give them as much air as possible; and to have them +placed at the back of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. They +must be well supplied with water, and let them be topped at the first +joint. + +By this mode of treatment, you may have strong stuggy plants, fit to put +under the hand-glass in three weeks; at all events, they should not be +kept in the pots longer than a month, as there is a probability, if that +time is exceeded, of their being stinted in the growth. + +The soil best calculated to ridge them out in, is a light rich earth. If +the soil is of a strong loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten dung +to it, and mix it up well together. + +Dig a trench about a foot in depth, and three feet wide, and let the bed +be made up about a foot above the level, that is, two feet from the +bottom of the trench; tread it down well, level it, and apply some water +if it is dry; then put the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, and +eighteen inches wide on each side of the trench; afterwards put some +dung or leaf mould on, and dig it in. Level the mould down, so that the +bed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten inches deep, taking +care to leave it a little higher in the middle, where the dung is +placed, in order that the mould may not settle, and become lower in the +centre, which will have a tendency to injure the plants by absorbing the +water, which is most required at the outsides. + +It is an excellent plan, if the ground is disengaged two or three months +previous to the time it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it out +six feet wide, and put in six inches of dung or leaf mould, and lay it +up in ridges of two feet six inches in width, and a foot in depth. When +wanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench three feet wide for the +dung, levelling it as before directed. This method, if it can be +conveniently attended to, is certainly preferable to the other, as it +allows an opportunity of incorporating the dung and mould together. If +hot dung cannot be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, provided +the seed is not sown earlier than the month of May. + +Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, and when wanted for use, +level it down; then mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three feet +alleys; afterwards place the line to the middle of the ridge, and mark +out three feet six inches, which must be the distance from the centre of +each glass. Take out two spadesful of the mould, level it on the ridge, +and put one spadeful of light rich earth in its place, for the purpose +of receiving the seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, take out +one spadeful, making it round and hollow, about eight inches wide; then +sow the seed from eight to twelve under each glass. If the mould is dry, +apply water to the seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down close, +observing as they become dry, to sprinkle them with water. + +After the seed has been up about a week, it will be necessary to thin +them out, in the proportion of six plants to each glass; and in the week +following reduce them to three, which is the proper number to be grown +together finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, put some light +mould round the stems of the plants, which should be done at two +different times, allowing a week to elapse between each application, and +filling up the hollow that is left. + +As soon as they have made two rough leaves, top them at the second +joint. This is a plan which may be adopted with success. Hot dung is +also of great advantage, as it will cause them to come into bearing +nearly a month sooner than would otherwise be the case. + +After the plants have been topped, as above directed, let them run to +six joints, and then top them again, when they will show fruit, which +may be topped at the first joint. If the hand-glasses are large, fruit +will be ready to cut very early. + +Be particular in not suffering them to run to too much vine; six joints +is quite sufficient at the first, and afterwards always keep them topped +at the first or second joint. By strict attention to this mode of +treatment, you may ensure a more abundant crop, and much finer fruit, +than can be calculated upon from the usual method of suffering the vine +to grow to a considerable length, which tends materially to weaken and +exhaust the plant. + +Let them be kept under the glasses as long as possible, without danger +of injuring them, admitting a small quantity of air in the day-time, +when the weather is warm, by means of a piece of wood, in the form of a +wedge, about seven inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about three +inches at the top. This will enable you to rise or fall the glass +according to the quantity of air necessary to be admitted. + +Before placing the vine outside the glasses, it will be necessary to +admit a larger portion of air, both night and day, for three or four +days, in order to harden the plants; then mulch the bed all over with +litter, which will cause the fruit to be kept clean, and the roots +moist, an essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers. + +Though moisture is so extremely necessary, yet at all times in the +application of water you must be regulated by the temperature of the +season. If the weather is hot and dry when they come into full bearing, +from three to four gallons of water will be required to each glass every +two or three days, if the soil is light, but if of a strong loamy +nature, less will be sufficient. + +Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and place four half bricks, +that is, one to each corner, under the frame of the glass; or another +method may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south by means of a +piece of stick, about the thickness of a broom-stick, a foot in length, +with three notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the purpose of +resting the glass upon. This plan is far preferable to the former, in +materially accelerating the growth of the fruit, by preventing too +great a current of air; besides possessing the advantage of easier +access to the plants, when there is a necessity for examining them. It +is, however, requisite when this method is adopted, that the ridges +should always front the south. + +If the above directions are strictly attended to, and the season is in +any degree favorable, a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected. + + + + +DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR + +Early and Late Cucumbers. + + +_Three-light Boxes for October sowing._ + +The boxes should be made of good seasoned deal, one inch and a half +thick, ten feet seven inches long, four feet three inches wide, and one +foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. The +bars to be three inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches in +height, and one slip at each end. The bars to be fluted on each side of +the slips, with oak corners, five inches wide. + +The lights to be four feet three inches and a half long, three feet six +inches wide, and the back rail two inches and three quarters wide; the +front to be three inches, and the sides two inches and a half; with +three bars, rounded off to a point inside, three quarters of an inch +wide. To be made of good seasoned deal, and to have horns both in the +back and front. The squares must be formed of strong crown glass, leaded +and cemented; let there be five in length, the one in front being five +inches long. A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, under the +lead of each light, which must also have iron handles. + + +_One-light Box for October sowing._ + +This must be in length four feet eight inches, three feet seven inches +wide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the +front. + +The lights to be half an inch longer than the box; and in all other +respects the same as those before described. + + +_For January sowing._ + +The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, four feet eight inches wide, +one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. +The bars and slips the same as for October. + +The lights to be four feet eight inches and a half long, and three feet +six inches wide, with four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied, +and a small piece of lead across to every square. In other respects to +be the same as those for October. + + +_For Spring sowing._ + +The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at the back, and eight inches +in the front. In other respects, the boxes as well as the lights for +spring sowing, must be the same as those directed for the January +seed-bed. + +Both boxes and lights should have three coats of paint, white inside, +and a dark lead colour on the outside. + + + + +ON THE CULTURE OF THE EARLY AND LATE + +Melon. + + +ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF + +Early and Late Melons. + + +For early melons have three loads of dung for a three-light box; but if +you have previously grown early cucumbers, the old linings will be +useful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion of one half of fresh +dung with it. This, in fact, will be better than all fresh, as it +requires only once turning, whereas new dung should be turned twice. In +gentlemen's gardens there is generally an abundance of leaves, and +sometimes a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, leaves, mixed with +an equal proportion of dung, may be used very successfully for the +early melon; and for the late one all leaves, from trees or shrubs, will +answer the purpose, particularly where there are brick pits. + +Let the dung be put together for a week, and lay the same time before it +is turned. Be careful that the bottom is dry where the bed is built; +raise it with mould or road sand to the height of six or eight inches, +and allow the bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and wider than +the box, so that when the bed is made, it may be drawn up in a gradual +manner to about three or four inches wider than the box, observing at +the same time to beat it well down with a fork. Let it be about three +feet nine inches at the back by three feet six inches in the front; +should there, however, happen to be a scarcity of dung, a foot of +strawberry or asparagus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed, +some of each, may be added at the bottom of the bed. + +If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it may be properly +moistened; and after the bed is formed, let it be again watered, as the +plants will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the proper effect, +if the bed is kept too dry. + +The bed should be made three weeks or a month before the plants are put +into it, and must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged out. When +the bed is in a proper condition, hollow it out in the middle to the +depth of four inches, and put a large barrow-fall of mould to each hill, +pressing it down close with the hand about a foot deep. + +The day before you intend to ridge out, put a pot of plants in the bed, +to prove whether it is sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case, +and the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to a light; but if +small two will be sufficient. + +The proper time to sow the seed for an early crop is about the middle of +January; and the early cucumber bed will do very well for the purpose. +Those sown at this time will be fit to cut in the first or second week +of May; but if there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, the +beginning of February is a preferable season to sow, when they will be +ready to cut by the latter end of May or the beginning of June. + +The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an early crop. Let them be +sown in leaf mould, about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight size +pot; immediately apply water, and plunge the pots in a good sharp heat. +As soon as the seed makes its appearance, which will be in the course of +about three days, if it is good, un-plunge the pots and give them a +little water. In two or three days more they will be fit to pot off, +which ought always to be done when about a week old, as they strike much +more freely when potted off young. Let the soil for potting off the +plants be half leaf mould, and half light loam or bog earth. + +The best season to sow for a second crop is the beginning of March, and +well calculated for the Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock, +Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly the same description, +though under different names, which they have derived from those +gardeners who have cultivated them by impregnating one with the other. +It is by no means, however, advisable to sow the Black Rock before the +latter end of March, as it is only calculated for a late melon, and +should be grown in large boxes, two plants to a light. This, though a +fine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not suit those whose object +is to produce a large quantity; for, by attempting to grow more than two +in a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to any degree of +perfection.[7] + +The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with the Author, who has +produced fruit of this kind upwards of seven pounds in weight, though +the common size varies from three to five. This description of melon is +not generally known, although it is a fine looking and excellent +flavoured fruit: it possesses a thin skin, orange-coloured flesh, and +the rind is very dark. + +The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest flavoured melon that can be +produced, though small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight of +three pounds, and commonly from one to two. The flesh is of a deep +scarlet colour, and it is rather inclined to rock. + +The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive melon in bearing; but in +order to obtain them good flavoured no more than one fruit must be +suffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the lights are large, +when two may be allowed, that is, six in a light; but if, however, the +plants are confined to one fruit, a second crop may be obtained. + +The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in appearance, and much +approved of by some gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for a +rock; but it will not, however, keep long, soon loses its flavour, and +the colour changes very yellow; it is also extremely tender in its +growth, and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock; neither is it +so handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, nor does it ripen any sooner. + +The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, with a thin skin, but +generally small in its dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort of +this kind that will grow from three to five pounds in weight. + +The Black Rock melon should not be sown later than the latter end of +May; the Stroud and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the tenth of +June; and the Early Cantaloupe about the twentieth of June. + +In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in having a good depth of +earth, from a foot to eighteen inches will be necessary. When the hills +are made for the very early melons, one large barrow-full of mould will +be sufficient, which must be pressed down close with the hand. Those +that are sown in March will require one barrow-full and a half, and +those afterwards two. In applying this mould, put one barrow-full in +first, and tread it down; then add the remainder, and press it close +down with the hand. Procure some good holding loam of a greasy nature, +such as is generally found in the marshes, which is the most preferable +kind of soil for melons, and let it be well weathered before using. It +ought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. Mix this with a sixth +proportion of good rotten dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned over +two or three different times, that it may be properly sweetened and +incorporated together; taking care, however, that it is not broken too +fine. + +The mould intended for the hills of the first crop should be lighter +than for those grown afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixed +with a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung; or an equal proportion +of stiff loam and leaf mould. As mould is added after the plants have +been ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take particular care +that the roots are never exposed to the sun, but as soon as they make +their appearance through the hills, increase the mould, in the +proportion of a barrow-full to each hill for the early melon, and two, +or even more, to the later one. + +In watering the plants, as the season advances, you must be regulated by +the composition of the soil, and the temperature of the weather. If the +soil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity that should be +applied to light mould. If the weather is warm, much water is necessary, +but if cold very little should be given, as too much moisture at that +time will create the canker. + +Heat being materially requisite for preserving the growth of the melon, +great care must be taken in keeping the bed well supplied with linings, +which must be added until the weather becomes fine and settled; they +will generally be required until the beginning of June; but if the +season is even then cold, it is better to continue them longer. + +In covering up the early plants, at the first ridging out, a single or +double mat will be sufficient; after that add a little hay, and increase +it if the weather is cold. This should be continued until the middle of +June, or later, if the season is unfavourable. + +Many gardeners being unacquainted with the proper mode of training and +topping the melon, and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set the +fruit, the Author will here give the method always pursued by himself, +which, if strictly observed, will be found to be attended with far less +trouble, and more certain in its effect than the plan generally adopted. + +When the plants are potted off, top them at the second break; that is, +let them grow to two leaves; then take out the break, which in some +kinds is in the centre, and in others in the second leaf. If you require +the fruit very fine, two plants will be sufficient in a light; but +should there be no particular necessity in that respect, and the lights +are sufficiently capacious, three may be matured extremely well. + +Have four runners to a light; that is, if two plants, two runners to +each; but if three, two runners to one plant, and one to each of the +other two. If the lights are large, they may be suffered to run to eight +joints; but if, on the contrary, the lights are confined, six will be +sufficient; and all other breaks that come out at home, with the first +break that issues from the runners, should be effectually taken away, in +order that the others may derive strength and nourishment. As soon as +they make the first breaks from the runners, which by some are +denominated cross bars, top them at the first joint, and in most sorts +they will generally show fruit; but if it should so happen that this +does not succeed, top them again, when they are certain of showing fruit +at the second. + +If they are impregnated in the same manner as prescribed in the +directions for the cucumber, there will be no difficulty in setting the +fruit, which will also show much bolder, and possess greater strength +when topped in close. + +Every description of melon will be brought to a greater degree of +perfection, by being suffered to swell off on the first shows, which can +alone be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if this is particularly +attended to, no apprehension need be entertained of the fruit being +small or delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, so it +decreases the strength and vigour of the plants. + +Great care is necessary in watering the plants: when they are young, it +should be applied with a rose; but as soon as the runners are extended +all over the bed, that may be dispensed with. If the weather is dull, a +small quantity of water will be sufficient; and if very fine, more must +be applied carefully without a rose, which will be found beneficial in +causing them to set more freely.[8] An insufficiency of moisture is an +error too prevalent with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, and +indeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in weight and flavour, may +be greatly attributed to want of judgment in this particular; for if the +plants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of which has been before +stated, they are of course more open to the air, and the sun has greater +power in drying up the soil, consequently the plants will become +exhausted, and the fruit will ripen before its growth is properly +matured. + +The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full time, will be five weeks +from the period of setting before it ripens; the Stroud about six; the +Scarlet seven; and the Black Rock upwards of seven; there will, however, +be some difference between those forced early with bottom heat, and +those grown late; the early ones coming to perfection three or four +days, or even a week before the other. + +The proper time to sow for under-ground melons, that is, such as are +grown without linings, is from the twenty-fifth of March to the +twentieth of June; observing, at the same time, that those which are +sown in March will require stronger beds than those that are set three +weeks or a month later. + +The beds for the first should be formed of good dung, well worked, and +three feet in height; whereas the latter will only require two feet. Dig +a trench the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep; and if the +soil is a strong good holding loam, it will answer the purpose for any +description of rock melon; they requiring a strong soil to bring them to +perfection; a light loam, however, may be used for the Early Cantaloupe. + +As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down well, make it even, and let +it have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then put on +the boxes and lights, and when the heat rises to its proper height, +which will be in the course of three or four days, put the mould in for +the hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a light, levelling +it about an inch all over the bed, for the purpose of preventing the +rank steam from injuring the plants. On the following day they may be +ridged out, and watered, being very particular in sprinkling the bed +regularly over. Admit air freely both night and day at first, until the +bed is purified, and becomes perfectly sweet; this will be the case in +about a week, when they may be shut down at night. Let the topping and +training be the same as directed for the early ones. + +If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a bank may be made on +the outside, at the back and front, about a foot or eighteen inches +wide, which will prove a great support to the fruit, and cause them to +grow much larger and finer; but if the soil is light and rich, by no +means make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as mould of that +description is not at all adapted for the production of fine melons. The +only one that will in any degree thrive in light rich soil is the Early +Cantaloupe; but any kind of the rock description will never come to +perfection. + +It is here necessary to observe that it is impossible ever to obtain +fine or good flavoured fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on a +plant at a time, as that support which is essential and ought to be +directed to one object, by becoming divided, is insufficient for the +perfection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, and renders it of +little or no value. + +Many horticulturists experience much difficulty from the effects of the +red spider and canker in melons; the former being caused by keeping them +too dry, and the latter arising from too much moisture. In order to +avoid these evils, the following directions should be particularly +attended to. When the weather is hot, or there is a strong bottom heat, +it is necessary to be free in the application of water, especially round +the sides of the boxes; for when the plants cover the bed, it will not +be requisite to give any in the centre over the stems. + +When the plants cover the surface of the bed always water without a +rose, observing that it should be invariably done in the morning, and +when the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines to get dry before +night, which will not be the case, if it is applied in the afternoon; +and should the following day be dull, and perhaps continue so for three +or four, the vines will remain wet, and then there is every probability +of their getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from a cold chill, +created by unnecessary moisture. + +The canker is a very destructive disorder, and extremely difficult to +eradicate. The only means that can be adopted, or likely to prove +beneficial, is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to give a good +heat; being careful, at the same time, not to run into the other +extreme, and create the red spider. If, however, the plants are kept +thin of vine, and water is applied in the manner before directed, no +fear need be entertained of either of the above disorders. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[7] The Author has in his possession a sort of this description, from +which he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds in weight. + +[8] As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, it will be +necessary to shade them from the extreme violence of the heat. Mats are +generally made use of, but the Author considers evergreen boughs far +preferable, as the former entirely precludes the sun, whereas the latter +is beneficial to the plants, in admitting it partially. This will be +generally requisite from about ten until two; and at that time, in +proportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air must be +admitted. + + + + +DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR + +Early and late Melons. + + +_Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons._ + +The wood-work should be of the same thickness, as those directed for +early cucumbers, and the boxes of the same length; but two feet deep at +the back, five feet wide, and one foot three inches in the front. + + +_For Melons sown from the middle of February until the latter end of +March, grown with linings._ + +The boxes and lights to be the same in thickness, length, and depth; +five feet six inches wide; four bars to a light, with a small iron bar +across the middle, in the inside, under the lead-work. + + +_For late Melons, grown without Linings._ + +The boxes and lights to be the same as those before described, with the +exception of being eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven inches in +the front. + + +_Brick Pits._ + +Let these be formed of nine inch brick-work, sunk one foot under-ground; +five feet high at the back, by three feet six inches in the front, from +the bottom; and six feet wide in the inside. Let the lights be three +feet eight inches wide. + + +THE END. + +PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The art of promoting the growth of the +cucumber and melon, by Thomas Watkins + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GROWTH OF CUCUMBER AND MELON *** + +***** This file should be named 27548.txt or 27548.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/7/5/4/27548/ + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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