diff options
| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-05-22 06:21:06 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-05-22 06:21:06 -0700 |
| commit | 927b84447330feff7f97b19a859a529d5f373a63 (patch) | |
| tree | 910df9e6529d1e6601c96a3fe63823828832b072 /old/files | |
| parent | 45233bfff9932ead4e2bd82354ab2a7e0c915907 (diff) | |
Diffstat (limited to 'old/files')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/bookdedicate.jpg | bin | 14222 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/bookfront.jpg | bin | 51700 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/bookmaxim.jpg | bin | 16469 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/bookspine.jpg | bin | 72318 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/booktitle.jpg | bin | 54317 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/cover.jpg | bin | 44820 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/enlarge.jpg | bin | 1139 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p024.jpg | bin | 44794 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p025.jpg | bin | 19833 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p026.jpg | bin | 64191 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p032.jpg | bin | 68616 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p034.jpg | bin | 11897 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p039.jpg | bin | 45567 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p043.jpg | bin | 11552 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p047.jpg | bin | 10785 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p049.jpg | bin | 42780 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p053.jpg | bin | 14532 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p056.jpg | bin | 82210 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p066.jpg | bin | 10237 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p067.jpg | bin | 65708 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p068.jpg | bin | 38570 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p072.jpg | bin | 23346 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p074.jpg | bin | 22099 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p079.jpg | bin | 15996 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p080.jpg | bin | 11806 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p084.jpg | bin | 21369 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p085.jpg | bin | 22793 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p090.jpg | bin | 12045 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p092.jpg | bin | 17057 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p093.jpg | bin | 17948 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p094.jpg | bin | 84483 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p095.jpg | bin | 19894 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p103.jpg | bin | 47432 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p105.jpg | bin | 39719 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p108.jpg | bin | 17654 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p113.jpg | bin | 13444 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p116.jpg | bin | 15908 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p118.jpg | bin | 19816 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p123.jpg | bin | 23648 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p125.jpg | bin | 7200 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p127.jpg | bin | 27854 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p131.jpg | bin | 9237 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p135.jpg | bin | 56299 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p140.jpg | bin | 53629 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p147.jpg | bin | 39855 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p152.jpg | bin | 24863 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p155.jpg | bin | 87954 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p166.jpg | bin | 79933 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p169.jpg | bin | 11425 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p171.jpg | bin | 23972 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p175.jpg | bin | 65835 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p178.jpg | bin | 68932 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p183.jpg | bin | 25384 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p185.jpg | bin | 48225 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p187.jpg | bin | 68432 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p190.jpg | bin | 53936 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p194.jpg | bin | 37974 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p198.jpg | bin | 52806 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p203.jpg | bin | 55342 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p205.jpg | bin | 17535 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p208.jpg | bin | 43771 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p211.jpg | bin | 87986 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p218.jpg | bin | 49842 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p220.jpg | bin | 66151 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p222.jpg | bin | 13785 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p224.jpg | bin | 10197 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p228.jpg | bin | 23563 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p236.jpg | bin | 56704 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p240.jpg | bin | 53936 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p243.jpg | bin | 21258 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p247.jpg | bin | 6859 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p251.jpg | bin | 22417 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p253.jpg | bin | 34896 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p254a.jpg | bin | 6834 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p254b.jpg | bin | 5959 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p255.jpg | bin | 18756 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p258.jpg | bin | 54660 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p266.jpg | bin | 41868 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p274.jpg | bin | 64196 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p278.jpg | bin | 66454 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p286.jpg | bin | 11821 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p287.jpg | bin | 27852 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p292.jpg | bin | 67786 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p295.jpg | bin | 72290 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p298.jpg | bin | 53629 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p303.jpg | bin | 53282 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p304.jpg | bin | 15275 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p309.jpg | bin | 55474 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p313.jpg | bin | 57496 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p319.jpg | bin | 16538 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p320.jpg | bin | 17079 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p327.jpg | bin | 17609 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p330.jpg | bin | 4896 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p332.jpg | bin | 25487 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p338.jpg | bin | 52478 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p343.jpg | bin | 48667 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p344.jpg | bin | 8333 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p347.jpg | bin | 19381 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p349.jpg | bin | 29177 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p355.jpg | bin | 65054 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p356.jpg | bin | 13982 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p362.jpg | bin | 10608 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p368.jpg | bin | 20392 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p370.jpg | bin | 13367 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p373.jpg | bin | 62876 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p378.jpg | bin | 11840 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p382.jpg | bin | 70971 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p387.jpg | bin | 42015 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p388.jpg | bin | 84006 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p389.jpg | bin | 16109 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p402.jpg | bin | 60904 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p409.jpg | bin | 48723 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p410.jpg | bin | 72437 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p413.jpg | bin | 23569 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p418.jpg | bin | 46782 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p420.jpg | bin | 13406 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p423.jpg | bin | 53481 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p425.jpg | bin | 15988 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p450.jpg | bin | 42702 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p458.jpg | bin | 41061 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p463.jpg | bin | 11254 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p464.jpg | bin | 5321 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p468.jpg | bin | 34427 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p472.jpg | bin | 56210 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p474.jpg | bin | 11598 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p479.jpg | bin | 19539 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p485.jpg | bin | 10783 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p487.jpg | bin | 38223 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p493.jpg | bin | 19421 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p495.jpg | bin | 49911 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p498.jpg | bin | 58939 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p501.jpg | bin | 16476 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p503.jpg | bin | 74322 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p512.jpg | bin | 54404 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p513.jpg | bin | 17500 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p516.jpg | bin | 31057 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p523.jpg | bin | 9078 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p525.jpg | bin | 35125 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p526.jpg | bin | 9759 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p527.jpg | bin | 18263 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p531.jpg | bin | 54435 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p533.jpg | bin | 56651 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p534.jpg | bin | 11941 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p537.jpg | bin | 50253 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p541.jpg | bin | 65775 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p559.jpg | bin | 43323 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p563.jpg | bin | 70632 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p565.jpg | bin | 21918 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p566.jpg | bin | 64787 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p568.jpg | bin | 54791 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p576.jpg | bin | 51021 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p585.jpg | bin | 56996 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p592.jpg | bin | 62130 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p595.jpg | bin | 64050 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p601.jpg | bin | 44271 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p608.jpg | bin | 7360 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p610.jpg | bin | 10302 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p611.jpg | bin | 17440 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p613.jpg | bin | 94516 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p615.jpg | bin | 39505 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p619.jpg | bin | 15255 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p621.jpg | bin | 31963 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p622.jpg | bin | 13143 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p625.jpg | bin | 31679 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p626.jpg | bin | 11985 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p628.jpg | bin | 36725 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p631.jpg | bin | 25607 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p633.jpg | bin | 42912 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p636.jpg | bin | 32630 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p638.jpg | bin | 58478 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p640.jpg | bin | 29718 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p643.jpg | bin | 7851 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p645.jpg | bin | 18704 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p646.jpg | bin | 11624 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p650.jpg | bin | 50635 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p653.jpg | bin | 19442 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p655.jpg | bin | 50059 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p664.jpg | bin | 76642 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p670.jpg | bin | 32563 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p675.jpg | bin | 63700 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p678.jpg | bin | 34477 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p681.jpg | bin | 66617 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p684.jpg | bin | 60444 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p693.jpg | bin | 25873 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p694.jpg | bin | 21756 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p696.jpg | bin | 49924 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p700.jpg | bin | 5343 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p702.jpg | bin | 19415 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p704.jpg | bin | 29364 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p705.jpg | bin | 18904 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/images/p707.jpg | bin | 15953 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/files/relative.htm | 23401 |
192 files changed, 0 insertions, 23401 deletions
diff --git a/old/files/images/bookdedicate.jpg b/old/files/images/bookdedicate.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index abbb91e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/bookdedicate.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/bookfront.jpg b/old/files/images/bookfront.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7011a14..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/bookfront.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/bookmaxim.jpg b/old/files/images/bookmaxim.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 482a3f2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/bookmaxim.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/bookspine.jpg b/old/files/images/bookspine.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 905185d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/bookspine.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/booktitle.jpg b/old/files/images/booktitle.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3f805d2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/booktitle.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/cover.jpg b/old/files/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 23a6fa2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/enlarge.jpg b/old/files/images/enlarge.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 34c47df..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/enlarge.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p024.jpg b/old/files/images/p024.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e08c9af..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p024.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p025.jpg b/old/files/images/p025.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8a43bee..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p025.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p026.jpg b/old/files/images/p026.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 05c646c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p026.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p032.jpg b/old/files/images/p032.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e17c125..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p032.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p034.jpg b/old/files/images/p034.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 25a666c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p034.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p039.jpg b/old/files/images/p039.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a332b6b..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p039.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p043.jpg b/old/files/images/p043.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2b988a4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p043.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p047.jpg b/old/files/images/p047.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9a1be97..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p047.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p049.jpg b/old/files/images/p049.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ce9791b..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p049.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p053.jpg b/old/files/images/p053.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 88d50ae..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p053.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p056.jpg b/old/files/images/p056.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ecde79b..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p056.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p066.jpg b/old/files/images/p066.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 46c9c3d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p066.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p067.jpg b/old/files/images/p067.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2b1c0b4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p067.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p068.jpg b/old/files/images/p068.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e8dbe16..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p068.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p072.jpg b/old/files/images/p072.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 94d83ab..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p072.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p074.jpg b/old/files/images/p074.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3af0e72..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p074.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p079.jpg b/old/files/images/p079.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4e85fef..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p079.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p080.jpg b/old/files/images/p080.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b728923..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p080.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p084.jpg b/old/files/images/p084.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4c8bcf2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p084.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p085.jpg b/old/files/images/p085.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ee7f22c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p085.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p090.jpg b/old/files/images/p090.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b6c7988..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p090.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p092.jpg b/old/files/images/p092.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index de9971f..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p092.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p093.jpg b/old/files/images/p093.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 093d1e2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p093.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p094.jpg b/old/files/images/p094.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 01be7eb..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p094.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p095.jpg b/old/files/images/p095.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 808aa18..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p095.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p103.jpg b/old/files/images/p103.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b51cb16..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p103.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p105.jpg b/old/files/images/p105.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5cc7823..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p105.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p108.jpg b/old/files/images/p108.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 24a1415..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p108.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p113.jpg b/old/files/images/p113.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index db43a65..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p113.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p116.jpg b/old/files/images/p116.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fb1f626..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p116.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p118.jpg b/old/files/images/p118.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0db9a92..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p118.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p123.jpg b/old/files/images/p123.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4d66247..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p123.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p125.jpg b/old/files/images/p125.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a3fab21..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p125.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p127.jpg b/old/files/images/p127.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8a1550d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p127.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p131.jpg b/old/files/images/p131.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 045f844..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p131.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p135.jpg b/old/files/images/p135.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9f5c873..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p135.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p140.jpg b/old/files/images/p140.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2abf543..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p140.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p147.jpg b/old/files/images/p147.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ff146bc..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p147.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p152.jpg b/old/files/images/p152.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 490cdba..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p152.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p155.jpg b/old/files/images/p155.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d31e9cb..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p155.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p166.jpg b/old/files/images/p166.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index bcd0a2c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p166.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p169.jpg b/old/files/images/p169.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8454f5e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p169.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p171.jpg b/old/files/images/p171.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a1e433d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p171.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p175.jpg b/old/files/images/p175.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7fc9793..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p175.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p178.jpg b/old/files/images/p178.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fabbb5d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p178.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p183.jpg b/old/files/images/p183.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0f8c5e3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p183.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p185.jpg b/old/files/images/p185.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e53ad03..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p185.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p187.jpg b/old/files/images/p187.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index da741f5..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p187.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p190.jpg b/old/files/images/p190.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dd3551c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p190.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p194.jpg b/old/files/images/p194.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d2c4a6d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p194.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p198.jpg b/old/files/images/p198.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5f88b05..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p198.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p203.jpg b/old/files/images/p203.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 545cea9..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p203.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p205.jpg b/old/files/images/p205.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 50321d1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p205.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p208.jpg b/old/files/images/p208.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 60e6c13..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p208.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p211.jpg b/old/files/images/p211.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ac793d2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p211.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p218.jpg b/old/files/images/p218.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6e61d78..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p218.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p220.jpg b/old/files/images/p220.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 80f08db..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p220.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p222.jpg b/old/files/images/p222.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7eba972..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p222.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p224.jpg b/old/files/images/p224.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0d2eafa..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p224.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p228.jpg b/old/files/images/p228.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f6d2504..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p228.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p236.jpg b/old/files/images/p236.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2e52fff..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p236.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p240.jpg b/old/files/images/p240.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9bf5884..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p240.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p243.jpg b/old/files/images/p243.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7283eaa..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p243.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p247.jpg b/old/files/images/p247.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1c94e1e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p247.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p251.jpg b/old/files/images/p251.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e9ef3dc..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p251.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p253.jpg b/old/files/images/p253.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a6183ce..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p253.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p254a.jpg b/old/files/images/p254a.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a1d6edc..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p254a.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p254b.jpg b/old/files/images/p254b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ca4aa52..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p254b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p255.jpg b/old/files/images/p255.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dc03905..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p255.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p258.jpg b/old/files/images/p258.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ae7d460..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p258.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p266.jpg b/old/files/images/p266.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d232295..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p266.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p274.jpg b/old/files/images/p274.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 988fc94..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p274.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p278.jpg b/old/files/images/p278.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 410e16f..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p278.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p286.jpg b/old/files/images/p286.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cf7c3b7..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p286.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p287.jpg b/old/files/images/p287.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8915fbd..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p287.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p292.jpg b/old/files/images/p292.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 241020a..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p292.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p295.jpg b/old/files/images/p295.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 27c06ec..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p295.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p298.jpg b/old/files/images/p298.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ddd64d3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p298.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p303.jpg b/old/files/images/p303.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9e72f12..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p303.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p304.jpg b/old/files/images/p304.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e32bee8..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p304.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p309.jpg b/old/files/images/p309.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 81ffc37..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p309.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p313.jpg b/old/files/images/p313.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2387dec..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p313.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p319.jpg b/old/files/images/p319.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a1e7796..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p319.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p320.jpg b/old/files/images/p320.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4827e2e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p320.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p327.jpg b/old/files/images/p327.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e9d6b87..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p327.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p330.jpg b/old/files/images/p330.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 30b212b..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p330.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p332.jpg b/old/files/images/p332.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a3476e1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p332.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p338.jpg b/old/files/images/p338.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 79b085d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p338.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p343.jpg b/old/files/images/p343.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2f43706..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p343.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p344.jpg b/old/files/images/p344.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7594e91..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p344.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p347.jpg b/old/files/images/p347.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 476293c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p347.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p349.jpg b/old/files/images/p349.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f72e906..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p349.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p355.jpg b/old/files/images/p355.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index edf94a3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p355.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p356.jpg b/old/files/images/p356.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f7036f3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p356.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p362.jpg b/old/files/images/p362.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 977416a..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p362.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p368.jpg b/old/files/images/p368.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1adaf3c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p368.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p370.jpg b/old/files/images/p370.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9e8904d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p370.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p373.jpg b/old/files/images/p373.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7e2e9ec..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p373.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p378.jpg b/old/files/images/p378.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0877b07..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p378.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p382.jpg b/old/files/images/p382.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1c4ad86..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p382.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p387.jpg b/old/files/images/p387.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 098e544..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p387.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p388.jpg b/old/files/images/p388.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 379adff..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p388.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p389.jpg b/old/files/images/p389.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3ccdf29..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p389.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p402.jpg b/old/files/images/p402.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3b95068..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p402.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p409.jpg b/old/files/images/p409.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index aceea88..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p409.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p410.jpg b/old/files/images/p410.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 65a055f..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p410.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p413.jpg b/old/files/images/p413.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9baa771..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p413.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p418.jpg b/old/files/images/p418.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2ecad42..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p418.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p420.jpg b/old/files/images/p420.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6d5e618..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p420.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p423.jpg b/old/files/images/p423.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index da96e25..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p423.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p425.jpg b/old/files/images/p425.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e77d027..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p425.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p450.jpg b/old/files/images/p450.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 18a87ac..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p450.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p458.jpg b/old/files/images/p458.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a9ea912..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p458.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p463.jpg b/old/files/images/p463.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b18cf8e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p463.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p464.jpg b/old/files/images/p464.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ff3d79e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p464.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p468.jpg b/old/files/images/p468.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 005a5af..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p468.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p472.jpg b/old/files/images/p472.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fc70727..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p472.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p474.jpg b/old/files/images/p474.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 39501d4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p474.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p479.jpg b/old/files/images/p479.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2007dd4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p479.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p485.jpg b/old/files/images/p485.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d81f915..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p485.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p487.jpg b/old/files/images/p487.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0e537a9..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p487.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p493.jpg b/old/files/images/p493.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7f039d1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p493.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p495.jpg b/old/files/images/p495.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a8a6b37..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p495.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p498.jpg b/old/files/images/p498.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 13d9417..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p498.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p501.jpg b/old/files/images/p501.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9d3bab4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p501.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p503.jpg b/old/files/images/p503.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ac1be95..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p503.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p512.jpg b/old/files/images/p512.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 11f4f53..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p512.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p513.jpg b/old/files/images/p513.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 807dd9e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p513.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p516.jpg b/old/files/images/p516.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cd9da4d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p516.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p523.jpg b/old/files/images/p523.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ce017e4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p523.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p525.jpg b/old/files/images/p525.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 808118f..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p525.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p526.jpg b/old/files/images/p526.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dc2f37c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p526.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p527.jpg b/old/files/images/p527.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6ff168f..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p527.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p531.jpg b/old/files/images/p531.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 96d4ef5..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p531.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p533.jpg b/old/files/images/p533.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9cb36ab..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p533.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p534.jpg b/old/files/images/p534.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3b309a2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p534.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p537.jpg b/old/files/images/p537.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 523fd6e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p537.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p541.jpg b/old/files/images/p541.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f596309..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p541.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p559.jpg b/old/files/images/p559.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2441514..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p559.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p563.jpg b/old/files/images/p563.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7bb2207..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p563.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p565.jpg b/old/files/images/p565.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5e863dc..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p565.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p566.jpg b/old/files/images/p566.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2831413..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p566.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p568.jpg b/old/files/images/p568.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f1d2de5..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p568.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p576.jpg b/old/files/images/p576.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0a32ebf..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p576.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p585.jpg b/old/files/images/p585.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 841c157..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p585.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p592.jpg b/old/files/images/p592.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index fb77af1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p592.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p595.jpg b/old/files/images/p595.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 39e6ace..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p595.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p601.jpg b/old/files/images/p601.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 64409e2..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p601.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p608.jpg b/old/files/images/p608.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 16914c1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p608.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p610.jpg b/old/files/images/p610.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7c1046d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p610.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p611.jpg b/old/files/images/p611.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e863f9e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p611.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p613.jpg b/old/files/images/p613.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 176a7c1..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p613.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p615.jpg b/old/files/images/p615.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3bbd1fd..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p615.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p619.jpg b/old/files/images/p619.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c6b5410..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p619.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p621.jpg b/old/files/images/p621.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 524e274..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p621.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p622.jpg b/old/files/images/p622.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c2300c6..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p622.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p625.jpg b/old/files/images/p625.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d97ddca..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p625.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p626.jpg b/old/files/images/p626.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 91092a9..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p626.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p628.jpg b/old/files/images/p628.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7d8ff4a..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p628.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p631.jpg b/old/files/images/p631.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6af81ba..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p631.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p633.jpg b/old/files/images/p633.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6885ad0..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p633.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p636.jpg b/old/files/images/p636.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 16489fe..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p636.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p638.jpg b/old/files/images/p638.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9ea703a..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p638.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p640.jpg b/old/files/images/p640.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 518003e..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p640.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p643.jpg b/old/files/images/p643.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ee856c3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p643.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p645.jpg b/old/files/images/p645.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9fda790..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p645.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p646.jpg b/old/files/images/p646.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d64bfa9..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p646.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p650.jpg b/old/files/images/p650.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e6dda5c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p650.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p653.jpg b/old/files/images/p653.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c009bb3..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p653.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p655.jpg b/old/files/images/p655.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f3f9b33..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p655.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p664.jpg b/old/files/images/p664.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 62f1123..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p664.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p670.jpg b/old/files/images/p670.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b492687..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p670.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p675.jpg b/old/files/images/p675.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3c4e95c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p675.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p678.jpg b/old/files/images/p678.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 13ab969..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p678.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p681.jpg b/old/files/images/p681.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 39eea90..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p681.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p684.jpg b/old/files/images/p684.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e708ef6..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p684.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p693.jpg b/old/files/images/p693.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cfd089c..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p693.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p694.jpg b/old/files/images/p694.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ae304eb..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p694.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p696.jpg b/old/files/images/p696.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e8a20f9..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p696.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p700.jpg b/old/files/images/p700.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 85f50c4..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p700.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p702.jpg b/old/files/images/p702.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 139b66a..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p702.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p704.jpg b/old/files/images/p704.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 15e41f0..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p704.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p705.jpg b/old/files/images/p705.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a50794b..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p705.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/images/p707.jpg b/old/files/images/p707.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 20acb1d..0000000 --- a/old/files/images/p707.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/files/relative.htm b/old/files/relative.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1c58535..0000000 --- a/old/files/relative.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,23401 +0,0 @@ -<?xml version="1.0" encoding="us-ascii"?> - -<!DOCTYPE html - PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > - -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> - <head> - <meta name="generator" content="HTML-Kit Tools HTML Tidy plugin" /> - <title> - FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR, COMPLETE - </title> - <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> - - body {background:#faebd7; margin:5%; text-align:justify} - P { text-indent: 1em; - margin-top: .25em; - margin-bottom: .25em; } - H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; } - HR { width: 33%; text-align: center; } - blockquote {font-size: 90%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} - div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } - .figleft {float: left;} - .figright {float: right;} - .toc { margin-left: 15%; margin-bottom: 0em;} - .boxnote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin: 1em 10%; } - CENTER { padding: 10px;} - -</style> - </head> - <body> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Following the Equator, Complete -by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net - - -Title: Following the Equator, Complete - -Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) - -Release Date: August 18, 2006 [EBook #2895] -Last Updated: October 18, 2012 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR, COMPLETE *** - - - - -Produced by David Widger - - - - - -</pre> - <p> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h1> - FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR - </h1> - <p> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="boxnote"> - <i> <a - href="http://www.gutenberg.org/files/2895/old/orig2895-h/main.htm"> LINK - TO THE ORIGINAL HTML FILE: This Ebook Has Been Reformatted For Better - Appearance In Mobile Viewers Such As Kindles And Others. The Original - Format, Which The Editor Believes Has A More Attractive Appearance For - Laptops And Other Computers, May Be Viewed By Clicking On This Box.</a> - </i> - </div> - <p> - <br /><br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - A JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD - </h2> - <h2> - BY - </h2> - <h2> - MARK TWAIN - </h2> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - SAMUEL L. CLEMENS - </h3> - <h3> - HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT - </h3> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="bookcover.jpg (131K)" src="images/cover.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="bookspine.jpg (70K)" src="images/bookspine.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="booktitle.jpg (53K)" src="images/booktitle.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="bookfront.jpg (50K)" src="images/bookfront.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="bookdedicate.jpg (13K)" src="images/bookdedicate.jpg" - width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="bookmaxim.jpg (16K)" src="images/bookmaxim.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - CONTENTS - </h2> - <h3> - <a href="#ch1">CHAPTER I.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Party—Across America to Vancouver—On Board the Warrimo—Steamer - Chairs—The Captain—Going Home under a Cloud—A Gritty - Purser—The Brightest Passenger—Remedy for Bad Habits—The - Doctor and the Lumbago—A Moral Pauper—Limited Smoking—Remittance-men.<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch2">CHAPTER II.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Change of Costume—Fish, Snake, and Boomerang Stories—Tests of - Memory—A Brahmin Expert—General Grant's Memory—A - Delicately Improper Tale<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch3">CHAPTER III.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Honolulu—Reminiscences of the Sandwich Islands—King Liholiho - and His Royal Equipment—The Tabu—The Population of the Island—A - Kanaka Diver—Cholera at Honolulu—Honolulu; Past and Present—The - Leper Colony<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch6">CHAPTER IV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Leaving Honolulu—Flying-fish—Approaching the Equator—Why - the Ship Went Slow—The Front Yard of the Ship—Crossing the - Equator—Horse Billiards or Shovel Board—The Waterbury Watch—Washing - Decks—Ship Painters—The Great Meridian—The Loss of a Day—A - Babe without a Birthday<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch5">CHAPTER V.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A lesson in Pronunciation—Reverence for Robert Burns—The - Southern Cross—Troublesome Constellations—Victoria for a Name—Islands - on the Map—Alofa and Fortuna—Recruiting for the Queensland - Plantations—Captain Warren's NoteBook—Recruiting not - thoroughly Popular<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch6">CHAPTER VI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Missionaries Obstruct Business—The Sugar Planter and the Kanaka—The - Planter's View—Civilizing the Kanaka—The Missionary's View—The - Result—Repentant Kanakas—Wrinkles—The Death Rate in - Queensland<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch7">CHAPTER VII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Fiji Islands—Suva—The Ship from Duluth—Going Ashore—Midwinter - in Fiji—Seeing the Governor—Why Fiji was Ceded to England—Old - time Fijians—Convicts among the Fijians—A Case Where Marriage - was a Failure—Immortality with Limitations<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch8">CHAPTER VIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Wilderness of Islands—Two Men without a Country—A Naturalist - from New Zealand—The Fauna of Australasia—Animals, Insects, - and Birds—The Ornithorhynchus—Poetry and Plagiarism<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch9">CHAPTER IX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Close to Australia—Porpoises at Night—Entrance to Sydney - Harbor—The Loss of the Duncan Dunbar—The Harbor—The City - of Sydney—Spring-time in Australia—The Climate—Information - for Travelers—The Size of Australia—A Dust-Storm and Hot Wind<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch10">CHAPTER X.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Discovery of Australia—Transportation of Convicts—Discipline—English - Laws, Ancient and Modern—Flogging Prisoners to Death—Arrival - of Settlers—New South Wales Corps—Rum Currency—Intemperance - Everywhere—$100,000 for One Gallon of Rum—Development of the - Country—Immense Resources<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch11">CHAPTER XI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Hospitality of English-speaking People—Writers and their Gratitude—Mr. - Gane and the Panegyrics—Population of Sydney An English City with - American Trimming—"Squatters"—Palaces and Sheep Kingdoms—Wool - and Mutton—Australians and Americans—Costermonger - Pronunciation—England is "Home"—Table Talk—English and - Colonial Audiences<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch12">CHAPTER XII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Mr. X., a Missionary—Why Christianity Makes Slow Progress in India—A - Large Dream—Hindoo Miracles and Legends—Sampson and Hanuman—The - Sandstone Ridge—Where are the Gates?<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch13">CHAPTER XIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Public Works in Australasia—Botanical Garden of Sydney—Four - Special Socialties—The Government House—A Governor and His - Functions—The Admiralty House—The Tour of the Harbor—Shark - Fishing—Cecil Rhodes' Shark and his First Fortune—Free Board - for Sharks.<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch14">CHAPTER XIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Bad Health—To Melbourne by Rail—Maps Defective—The - Colony of Victoria—A Round-trip Ticket from Sydney—Change - Cars, from Wide to Narrow Gauge, a Peculiarity at Albury—Customs-fences—"My - Word"—The Blue Mountains—Rabbit Piles—Government R. R. - Restaurants—Duchesses for Waiters—"Sheep-dip"—Railroad - Coffee—Things Seen and Not Seen<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch15">CHAPTER XV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Wagga-Wagga—The Tichborne Claimant—A Stock Mystery—The - Plan of the Romance—The Realization—The Henry Bascom Mystery—Bascom - Hall—The Author's Death and Funeral<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch16">CHAPTER XVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Melbourne and its Attractions—The Melbourne Cup Races—Cup Day—Great - Crowds—Clothes Regardless of Cost—The Australian Larrikin—Is - He Dead?—Australian Hospitality—Melbourne Wool-brokers—The - Museums—The Palaces—The Origin of Melbourne<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch17">CHAPTER XVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The British Empire—Its Exports and Imports—The Trade of - Australia—To Adelaide—Broken Hill Silver Mine—A - Roundabout road—The Scrub and its Possibilities for the Novelist—The - Aboriginal Tracker—A Test Case—How Does One Cow-Track Differ - from Another?<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Gum Trees—Unsociable Trees—Gorse and Broom—A - universal Defect—An Adventurer—Wanted L200, got L20,000,000—A - Vast Land Scheme—The Smash-up—The Corpse Got Up and Danced—A - Unique Business by One Man—Buying the Kangaroo Skin—The - Approach to Adelaide—Everything Comes to Him who Waits—A - Healthy Religious sphere—What is the Matter with the Specter?<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch19">CHAPTER XIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Botanical Gardens—Contributions from all Countries—The - Zoological Gardens of Adelaide—The Laughing Jackass—The Dingo—A - Misnamed Province—Telegraphing from Melbourne to San Francisco—A - Mania for Holidays—The Temperature—The Death Rate—Celebration - of the Reading of the Proclamation of 1836—Some old Settlers at the - Commemoration—Their Staying Powers—The Intelligence of the - Aboriginal—The Antiquity of the Boomerang<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch20">CHAPTER XX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Caller—A Talk about Old Times—The Fox Hunt—An Accurate - Judgment of an Idiot—How We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch21">CHAPTER XXI</a>. - </h3> - <p> - The "Weet-Weet"—Keeping down the Population—Victoria—Killing - the Aboriginals—Pioneer Days in Queensland—Material for a - Drama—The Bush—Pudding with Arsenic—Revenge—A - Right Spirit but a Wrong Method—Death of Donga Billy<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch22">CHAPTER XXII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Continued Description of Aboriginals—Manly Qualities—Dodging - Balls—Feats of Spring—Jumping—Where the Kangaroo Learned - its Art—Well Digging—Endurance—Surgery—Artistic - Abilities—Fennimore Cooper's Last Chance—Australian Slang<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch23">CHAPTER XXIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - To Horsham (Colony of Victoria)—Description of Horsham—At the - Hotel—Pepper Tree-The Agricultural College, Forty Pupils—High - Temperature—Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc.—The Bird - with a Forgettable Name—The Magpie and the Lady—Fruit Trees—Soils—Sheep - Shearing—To Stawell—Gold Mining Country—$75,000 per - Month Income and able to Keep House—Fine Grapes and Wine—The - Dryest Community on Earth—The Three Sisters—Gum Trees and - Water<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch24">CHAPTER XXIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Road to Ballarat—The City—Great Gold Strike, 1851—Rush - for Australia—"Great Nuggets"—Taxation—Revolt and - Victory—Peter Lalor and the Eureka Stockade—"Pencil Mark"—Fine - Statuary at Ballarat—Population—Ballarat English<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch25">CHAPTER XXV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Bound for Bendigo—The Priest at Castlemaine—Time Saved by - Walking—Description of Bendigo—A Valuable Nugget—Perseverence - and Success—Mr. Blank and His Influence—Conveyance of an Idea—I - Had to Like the Irishman—Corrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain Club—My - Bascom Mystery Solved<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch26">CHAPTER XXVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Where New Zealand Is—But Few Know—Things People Think They - Know—The Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z.<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch27">CHAPTER XXVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The South Pole Swell—Tasmania—Extermination of the Natives—The - Picture Proclamation—The Conciliator—The Formidable Sixteen<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch28">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - When the Moment Comes the Man Appears—Why Ed. Jackson called on - Commodore Vanderbilt—Their Interview—Welcome to the Child of - His Friend—A Big Time but under Inspection—Sent on Important - Business—A Visit to the Boys on the Boat<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch29">CHAPTER XXIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Tasmania, Early Days—Description of the Town of Hobart—An - Englishman's Love of Home Surroundings—Neatest City on Earth—The - Museum—A Parrot with an Acquired Taste—Glass Arrow Beads—Refuge - for the Indigent too healthy<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch30">CHAPTER XXX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Arrival at Bluff, N. Z.—Where the Rabbit Plague Began—The - Natural Enemy of the Rabbit—Dunedin—A Lovely Town—Visit - to Dr. Hockin—His Museum—A Liquified Caterpillar—The - Unperfected Tape Worm—The Public Museum and Picture Gallery<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch31">CHAPTER XXXI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Express Train—"A Hell of a Hotel at Maryborough"—Clocks - and Bells—Railroad Service.<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch32">CHAPTER XXXII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Description of the Town of Christ Church—A Fine Museum—Jade-stone - Trinkets—The Great Moa—The First Maori in New Zealand—Women - Voters—"Person" in New Zealand Law Includes Woman—Taming an - Ornithorhynchus—A Voyage in the 'Flora' from Lyttelton—Cattle - Stalls for Everybody—A Wonderful Time.<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch33">CHAPTER XXXIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Town of Nelson—"The Mongatapu Murders," the Great Event of the - Town—Burgess' Confession—Summit of Mount Eden—Rotorua - and the Hot Lakes and Geysers—Thermal Springs District—Kauri - Gum—Tangariwa Mountains<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch34">CHAPTER XXXIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Bay of Gisborne—Taking in Passengers by the Yard Arm—The - Green Ballarat Fly—False Teeth—From Napier to Hastings by the - Ballarat Fly Train—Kauri Trees—A Case of Mental Telegraphy<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch35">CHAPTER XXXV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Fifty Miles in Four Hours—Comfortable Cars—Town of Wauganui—Plenty - of Maoris—On the Increase—Compliments to the Maoris—The - Missionary Ways all Wrong—The Tabu among the Maoris—A - Mysterious Sign—Curious War-monuments—Wellington<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch36">CHAPTER XXXVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Poems of Mrs. Moore—The Sad Fate of William Upson—A Fellow - Traveler Imitating the Prince of Wales—A Would-be Dude—Arrival - at Sydney—Curious Town Names with Poem<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch37">CHAPTER XXXVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - From Sydney for Ceylon—A Lascar Crew—A Fine Ship—Three - Cats and a Basket of Kittens—Dinner Conversations—Veuve - Cliquot Wine—At Anchor in King George's Sound Albany Harbor—More - Cats—A Vulture on Board—Nearing the Equator again—Dressing - for Dinner—Ceylon, Hotel Bristol—Servant Brampy—A - Feminine Man—Japanese Jinriksha or Cart—Scenes in Ceylon—A - Missionary School—Insincerity of Clothes<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch38">CHAPTER XXXVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Steamer Rosetta to Bombay—Limes 14 cents a Barrel—Bombay, a - Bewitching City—Descriptions of People and Dress—Woman as a - Road Decoration—India, the Land of Dreams and Romance—Fourteen - Porters to Carry Baggage—Correcting a Servant—Killing a Slave—Arranging - a Bedroom—Three Hours' Work and a Terrible Racket—The Bird of - Birds, the Indian Crow<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch39">CHAPTER XXXIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - God Vishnu, 108 Names—Change of Titles or Hunting for an Heir—Bombay - as a Kaleidoscope—The Native's Man Servant—Servants' - Recommendations—How Manuel got his Name and his English—Satan—A - Visit from God<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch40">CHAPTER XL.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Government House at Malabar Point—Mansion of Kumar Shri Samatsin - Hji Bahadur—The Indian Princess—A Difficult Game—Wardrobe - and Jewels—Ceremonials—Decorations when Leaving—The - Towers of Silence—A Funeral<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch41">CHAPTER XLI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Jain Temple—Mr. Roychand's Bungalow—A Decorated Six-Gun - Prince—Human Fireworks—European Dress, Past and Present—Complexions—Advantages - with the Zulu—Festivities at the Bungalow—Nautch Dancers—Entrance - of the Prince—Address to the Prince<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch42">CHAPTER XLII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Hindoo Betrothal, midnight, Sleepers on the ground, Home of the Bride of - Twelve Years Dressed as a Boy—Illumination—Nautch Girls—Imitating - Snakes—Later—Illuminated Porch Filled with Sleepers—The - Plague<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch43">CHAPTER XLIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Murder Trial in Bombay—Confidence Swindlers—Some Specialities - of India—The Plague, Juggernaut, Suttee, etc.—Everything on - Gigantic Scale—India First in Everything—80 States, more - Custom Houses than Cats—Rich Ground for Thug Society<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch44">CHAPTER XLIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Official Thug Book—Supplies for Traveling, Bedding, and other - Freight—Scene at Railway Station—Making Way for White Man—Waiting - Passengers, High and Low Caste, Touch in the cars—Our Car—Beds - made up—Dreaming of Thugs—Baroda—Meet Friends—Indian - Well—The Old Town—Narrow Streets—A Mad Elephant<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch45">CHAPTER XLV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Elephant Riding—Howdahs—The New Palace—The Prince's - Excursion—Gold and Silver Artillery—A Vice-royal Visit—Remarkable - Dog—The Bench Show—Augustin Daly's Back Door—Fakeer<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch46">CHAPTER XLVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Thugs—Government Efforts to Exterminate them—Choking a - Victim—A Fakeer Spared—Thief Strangled<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch47">CHAPTER XLVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Thugs, Continued—Record of Murders—A Joy of Hunting and - Killing Men—Gordon Cumming—Killing an Elephant—Family - Affection among Thugs—Burial Places<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch48">CHAPTER XLVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Starting for Allahabad—Lower Berths in Sleepers—Elderly Ladies - have Preference of Berths—An American Lady Takes One Anyhow—How - Smythe Lost his Berth—How He Got Even—The Suttee<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch49">CHAPTER XLIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Pyjamas—Day Scene in India—Clothed in a Turban and a Pocket - Handkerchief—Land Parceled Out—Established Village Servants—Witches - in Families—Hereditary Midwifery—Destruction of Girl Babies—Wedding - Display—Tiger-Persuader—Hailstorm Discouragers—The - Tyranny of the Sweeper—Elephant Driver—Water Carrier—Curious - Rivers—Arrival at Allahabad—English Quarter—Lecture Hall - Like a Snowstorm—Private Carriages—A Milliner—Early - Morning—The Squatting Servant—A Religious Fair<br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch50">CHAPTER L.</a> - </h3> - <p> - On the Road to Benares—Dust and Waiting—The Bejeweled Crowd—A - Native Prince and his Guard—Zenana Lady—The Extremes of - Fashion—The Hotel at Benares—An Annex a Mile Away—Doors - in India—The Peepul Tree—Warning against Cold Baths—A - Strange Fruit—Description of Benares—The Beginning of Creation—Pilgrims - to Benares—A Priest with a Good Business Stand—Protestant - Missionary—The Trinity Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu—Religion the - Business at Benares<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch51">CHAPTER LI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Benares a Religious Temple—A Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in - Securing Salvation<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch52">CHAPTER LII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Curious Way to Secure Salvation—The Banks of the Ganges—Architecture - Represents Piety—A Trip on the River—Bathers and their - Costumes—Drinking the Water—A Scientific Test of the Nasty - Purifier—Hindoo Faith in the Ganges—A Cremation—Remembrances - of the Suttee—All Life Sacred Except Human Life—The Goddess - Bhowanee, and the Sacrificers—Sacred Monkeys—Ugly Idols - Everywhere—Two White Minarets—A Great View with a Monkey in it—A - Picture on the Water<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch53">CHAPTER LIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Still in Benares—Another Living God—Why Things are Wonderful—Sri - 108 Utterly Perfect—How He Came so—Our Visit to Sri—A - Friendly Deity Exchanging Autographs and Books—Sri's Pupil—An - Interesting Man—Reverence and Irreverence—Dancing in a - Sepulchre<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch54">CHAPTER LIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Rail to Calcutta—Population—The "City of Palaces"—A - Fluted Candle-stick—Ochterlony—Newspaper Correspondence—Average - Knowledge of Countries—A Wrong Idea of Chicago—Calcutta and - the Black Hole—Description of the Horrors—Those Who Lived—The - Botanical Gardens—The Afternoon Turnout—Grand Review—Military - Tournament—Excursion on the Hoogly—The Museum—What - Winter Means in Calcutta<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch55">CHAPTER LV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - On the Road Again—Flannels in Order—Across Country—From - Greenland's Icy Mountain—Swapping Civilization—No Field women - in India—How it is in Other Countries—Canvas-covered Cars—The - Tiger Country—My First Hunt—Some Wild Elephants Get Away—The - Plains of India—The Ghurkas—Women for Pack-Horses—A - Substitute for a Cab—Darjeeling—The Hotel—The Highest - Thing in the Himalayas—The Club—Kinchinjunga and Mt. Everest—Thibetans—The - Prayer Wheel—People Going to the Bazar<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch56">CHAPTER LVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - On the Road Again—The Hand-Car—A Thirty-five-mile Slide—The - Banyan Tree—A Dramatic Performance—The Railroad Loop—The - Half-way House—The Brain Fever Bird—The Coppersmith Bird—Nightingales - and Cue Owls<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch57">CHAPTER LVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - India the Most Extraordinary Country on Earth—Nothing Forgotten—The - Land of Wonders—Annual Statistics Everywhere about Violence—Tiger - vs. Man—A Handsome Fight—Annual Man Killing and Tiger Killing—Other - Animals—Snakes—Insurance and Snake Tables—The Cobra Bite—Muzaffurpore—Dinapore—A - Train that Stopped for Gossip—Six Hours for Thirty-five Miles—A - Rupee to the Engineer—Ninety Miles an Hour—Again to Benares, - the Piety Hive—To Lucknow<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch58">CHAPTER LVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Great Mutiny—The Massacre in Cawnpore—Terrible Scenes in - Lucknow—The Residency—The Siege<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch59">CHAPTER LIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - A Visit to the Residency—Cawnpore—The Adjutant Bird and the - Hindoo Corpse—The Taj Mahal—The True Conception—The Ice - Storm—True Gems—Syrian Fountains—An Exaggerated Niagara<br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch60">CHAPTER LX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - To Lahore—The Governor's Elephant—Taking a Ride—No - Danger from Collision—Rawal Pindi—Back to Delhi—An - Orientalized Englishman—Monkeys and the Paint-pot—Monkey - Crying over my Note-book—Arrival at Jeypore—In Rajputana—Watching - Servants—The Jeypore Hotel—Our Old and New Satan—Satan - as a Liar—The Museum—A Street Show—Blocks of Houses—A - Religious Procession<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch61">CHAPTER LXI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Methods in American Deaf and Dumb Asylums—Methods in the Public - Schools—A Letter from a Youth in Punjab—Highly Educated - Service—A Damage to the Country—A Little Book from Calcutta—Writing - Poor English—Embarrassed by a Beggar Girl—A Specimen Letter—An - Application for Employment—A Calcutta School Examination—Two - Samples of Literature<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch62">CHAPTER LXII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Sail from Calcutta to Madras—Thence to Ceylon—Thence for - Mauritius—The Indian Ocean—Our Captain's Peculiarity—The - Scot Has one too—The Flying-fish that Went Hunting in the Field—Fined - for Smuggling—Lots of Pets on Board—The Color of the Sea—The - Most Important Member of Nature's Family—The Captain's Story of Cold - Weather—Omissions in the Ship's Library—Washing Decks—Pyjamas - on Deck—The Cat's Toilet—No Interest in the Bulletin—Perfect - Rest—The Milky Way and the Magellan Clouds—Mauritius—Port - Louis—A Hot Country—Under French Control—A Variety of - People and Complexions—Train to Curepipe—A Wonderful - Office-holder—The Wooden Peg Ornament—The Prominent Historical - Event of Mauritius—"Paul and Virginia"—One of Virginia's - Wedding Gifts—Heaven Copied after Mauritius—Early History of - Mauritius—Quarantines—Population of all Kinds—What the - World Consists of—Where Russia and Germany are—A Picture of - Milan Cathedral—Newspapers—The Language—Best Sugar in - the World—Literature of Mauritius<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch63">CHAPTER LXIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Port Louis—Matches no Good—Good Roads—Death Notices—Why - European Nations Rob Each Other—What Immigrants to Mauritius Do—Population—Labor - Wages—The Camaron—The Palmiste and other Eatables—Monkeys—The - Cyclone of 1892—Mauritius a Sunday Landscape<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch64">CHAPTER LXIV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - The Steamer "Arundel Castle"—Poor Beds in Ships—The Beds in - Noah's Ark—Getting a Rest in Europe—Ship in Sight—Mozambique - Channel—The Engineer and the Band—Thackeray's "Madagascar"—Africanders - Going Home—Singing on the After Deck—An Out-of-Place Story—Dynamite - Explosion in Johannesburg—Entering Delagoa Bay—Ashore—A - Hot Winter—Small Town—No Sights—No Carriages—Working - Women—Barnum's Purchase of Shakespeare's Birthplace, Jumbo, and the - Nelson Monument—Arrival at Durban<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch65">CHAPTER LXV.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Royal Hotel Durban—Bells that Did not Ring—Early Inquiries for - Comforts—Change of Temperature after Sunset—Rickhaws—The - Hotel Chameleon—Natives not out after the Bell—Preponderance - of Blacks in Natal—Hair Fashions in Natal—Zulus for Police—A - Drive round the Berea—The Cactus and other Trees—Religion a - Vital Matter—Peculiar Views about Babies—Zulu Kings—A - Trappist Monastery—Transvaal Politics—Reasons why the Trouble - came About<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch66">CHAPTER LXVI.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Jameson over the Border—His Defeat and Capture—Sent to England - for Trial—Arrest of Citizens by the Boers—Commuted Sentences—Final - Release of all but Two—Interesting Days for a Stranger—Hard to - Understand Either Side—What the Reformers Expected to Accomplish—How - They Proposed to Do it—Testimonies a Year Later—A "Woman's - Part"—The Truth of the South African Situation—"Jameson's - Ride"—A Poem<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch67">CHAPTER LXVII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Jameson's Raid—The Reform Committee's Difficult Task—Possible - Plans—Advice that Jameson Ought to Have—The War of 1881 and - its Lessons—Statistics of Losses of the Combatants—Jameson's - Battles—Losses on Both Sides—The Military Errors—How the - Warfare Should Have Been Carried on to Be Successful<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch68">CHAPTER LXVIII.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Judicious Mr. Rhodes—What South Africa Consists of—Johannesburg—The - Gold Mines—The Heaven of American Engineers—What the Author - Knows about Mining—Description of the Boer—What Should be - Expected of Him—What Was A Dizzy Jump for Rhodes—Taxes—Rhodesian - Method of Reducing Native Population—Journeying in Cape Colony—The - Cars—The Country—The Weather—Tamed Blacks—Familiar - Figures in King William's Town—Boer Dress—Boer Country Life—Sleeping - Accommodations—The Reformers in Boer Prison—Torturing a Black - Prisoner<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#ch69">CHAPTER LXIX.</a> - </h3> - <p> - An Absorbing Novelty—The Kimberley Diamond Mines—Discovery of - Diamonds—The Wronged Stranger—Where the Gems Are—A - Judicious Change of Boundary—Modern Machinery and Appliances—Thrilling - Excitement in Finding a Diamond—Testing a Diamond—Fences—Deep - Mining by Natives in the Compound—Stealing—Reward for the - Biggest Diamond—A Fortune in Wine—The Great Diamond—Office - of the De Beer Co.—Sorting the Gems—Cape Town—The Most - Imposing Man in British Provinces—Various Reasons for his Supremacy—How - He Makes Friends<br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h3> - <a href="#CONCLUSION">CONCLUSION.</a> - </h3> - <p> - Table Rock—Table Bay—The Castle—Government and - Parliament—The Club—Dutch Mansions and their Hospitality—Dr. - John Barry and his Doings—On the Ship Norman—Madeira—Arrived - in Southampton<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h1> - FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR - </h1> - <p> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p025.jpg (19K)" src="images/p025.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="ch1" id="ch1"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER I. - </h2> - <p> - <i>A man may have no bad habits and have worse.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. <br /> - </p> - <p> - The starting point of this lecturing-trip around the world was Paris, - where we had been living a year or two. - </p> - <p> - We sailed for America, and there made certain preparations. This took but - little time. Two members of my family elected to go with me. Also a - carbuncle. The dictionary says a carbuncle is a kind of jewel. Humor is - out of place in a dictionary. - </p> - <p> - We started westward from New York in midsummer, with Major Pond to manage - the platform-business as far as the Pacific. It was warm work, all the - way, and the last fortnight of it was suffocatingly smoky, for in Oregon - and British Columbia the forest fires were raging. We had an added week of - smoke at the seaboard, where we were obliged to wait awhile for our ship. - She had been getting herself ashore in the smoke, and she had to be docked - and repaired. - </p> - <p> - We sailed at last; and so ended a snail-paced march across the continent, - which had lasted forty days. - </p> - <p> - We moved westward about mid-afternoon over a rippled and sparkling summer - sea; an enticing sea, a clean and cool sea, and apparently a welcome sea - to all on board; it certainly was to me, after the distressful dustings - and smokings and swelterings of the past weeks. The voyage would furnish a - three-weeks holiday, with hardly a break in it. We had the whole Pacific - Ocean in front of us, with nothing to do but do nothing and be - comfortable. The city of Victoria was twinkling dim in the deep heart of - her smoke-cloud, and getting ready to vanish and now we closed the - field-glasses and sat down on our steamer chairs contented and at peace. - But they went to wreck and ruin under us and brought us to shame before - all the passengers. They had been furnished by the largest - furniture-dealing house in Victoria, and were worth a couple of farthings - a dozen, though they had cost us the price of honest chairs. In the - Pacific and Indian Oceans one must still bring his own deck-chair on board - or go without, just as in the old forgotten Atlantic times—those - Dark Ages of sea travel.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p026.jpg (62K)" src="images/p026.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Ours was a reasonably comfortable ship, with the customary sea-going fare—plenty - of good food furnished by the Deity and cooked by the devil. The - discipline observable on board was perhaps as good as it is anywhere in - the Pacific and Indian Oceans. The ship was not very well arranged for - tropical service; but that is nothing, for this is the rule for ships - which ply in the tropics. She had an over-supply of cockroaches, but this - is also the rule with ships doing business in the summer seas—at - least such as have been long in service. Our young captain was a very - handsome man, tall and perfectly formed, the very figure to show up a - smart uniform's finest effects. He was a man of the best intentions and - was polite and courteous even to courtliness. There was a soft and grace - and finish about his manners which made whatever place he happened to be - in seem for the moment a drawing room. He avoided the smoking room. He had - no vices. He did not smoke or chew tobacco or take snuff; he did not - swear, or use slang or rude, or coarse, or indelicate language, or make - puns, or tell anecdotes, or laugh intemperately, or raise his voice above - the moderate pitch enjoined by the canons of good form. When he gave an - order, his manner modified it into a request. After dinner he and his - officers joined the ladies and gentlemen in the ladies' saloon, and shared - in the singing and piano playing, and helped turn the music. He had a - sweet and sympathetic tenor voice, and used it with taste and effect. - After the music he played whist there, always with the same partner and - opponents, until the ladies' bedtime. The electric lights burned there as - late as the ladies and their friends might desire; but they were not - allowed to burn in the smoking-room after eleven. There were many laws on - the ship's statute book of course; but so far as I could see, this and one - other were the only ones that were rigidly enforced. The captain explained - that he enforced this one because his own cabin adjoined the smoking-room, - and the smell of tobacco smoke made him sick. I did not see how our smoke - could reach him, for the smoking-room and his cabin were on the upper - deck, targets for all the winds that blew; and besides there was no crack - of communication between them, no opening of any sort in the solid - intervening bulkhead. Still, to a delicate stomach even imaginary smoke - can convey damage. - </p> - <p> - The captain, with his gentle nature, his polish, his sweetness, his moral - and verbal purity, seemed pathetically out of place in his rude and - autocratic vocation. It seemed another instance of the irony of fate. - </p> - <p> - He was going home under a cloud. The passengers knew about his trouble, - and were sorry for him. Approaching Vancouver through a narrow and - difficult passage densely befogged with smoke from the forest fires, he - had had the ill-luck to lose his bearings and get his ship on the rocks. A - matter like this would rank merely as an error with you and me; it ranks - as a crime with the directors of steamship companies. The captain had been - tried by the Admiralty Court at Vancouver, and its verdict had acquitted - him of blame. But that was insufficient comfort. A sterner court would - examine the case in Sydney—the Court of Directors, the lords of a - company in whose ships the captain had served as mate a number of years. - This was his first voyage as captain. - </p> - <p> - The officers of our ship were hearty and companionable young men, and they - entered into the general amusements and helped the passengers pass the - time. Voyages in the Pacific and Indian Oceans are but pleasure excursions - for all hands. Our purser was a young Scotchman who was equipped with a - grit that was remarkable. He was an invalid, and looked it, as far as his - body was concerned, but illness could not subdue his spirit. He was full - of life, and had a gay and capable tongue. To all appearances he was a - sick man without being aware of it, for he did not talk about his - ailments, and his bearing and conduct were those of a person in robust - health; yet he was the prey, at intervals, of ghastly sieges of pain in - his heart. These lasted many hours, and while the attack continued he - could neither sit nor lie. In one instance he stood on his feet - twenty-four hours fighting for his life with these sharp agonies, and yet - was as full of life and cheer and activity the next day as if nothing had - happened. - </p> - <p> - The brightest passenger in the ship, and the most interesting and - felicitous talker, was a young Canadian who was not able to let the whisky - bottle alone. He was of a rich and powerful family, and could have had a - distinguished career and abundance of effective help toward it if he could - have conquered his appetite for drink; but he could not do it, so his - great equipment of talent was of no use to him. He had often taken the - pledge to drink no more, and was a good sample of what that sort of - unwisdom can do for a man—for a man with anything short of an iron - will. The system is wrong in two ways: it does not strike at the root of - the trouble, for one thing, and to make a pledge of any kind is to declare - war against nature; for a pledge is a chain that is always clanking and - reminding the wearer of it that he is not a free man. - </p> - <p> - I have said that the system does not strike at the root of the trouble, - and I venture to repeat that. The root is not the drinking, but the desire - to drink. These are very different things. The one merely requires will—and - a great deal of it, both as to bulk and staying capacity—the other - merely requires watchfulness—and for no long time. The desire of - course precedes the act, and should have one's first attention; it can do - but little good to refuse the act over and over again, always leaving the - desire unmolested, unconquered; the desire will continue to assert itself, - and will be almost sure to win in the long run. When the desire intrudes, - it should be at once banished out of the mind. One should be on the watch - for it all the time—otherwise it will get in. It must be taken in - time and not allowed to get a lodgment. A desire constantly repulsed for a - fortnight should die, then. That should cure the drinking habit. The - system of refusing the mere act of drinking, and leaving the desire in - full force, is unintelligent war tactics, it seems to me. I used to take - pledges—and soon violate them. My will was not strong, and I could - not help it. And then, to be tied in any way naturally irks an otherwise - free person and makes him chafe in his bonds and want to get his liberty. - But when I finally ceased from taking definite pledges, and merely - resolved that I would kill an injurious desire, but leave myself free to - resume the desire and the habit whenever I should choose to do so, I had - no more trouble. In five days I drove out the desire to smoke and was not - obliged to keep watch after that; and I never experienced any strong - desire to smoke again. At the end of a year and a quarter of idleness I - began to write a book, and presently found that the pen was strangely - reluctant to go. I tried a smoke to see if that would help me out of the - difficulty. It did. I smoked eight or ten cigars and as many pipes a day - for five months; finished the book, and did not smoke again until a year - had gone by and another book had to be begun. - </p> - <p> - I can quit any of my nineteen injurious habits at any time, and without - discomfort or inconvenience. I think that the Dr. Tanners and those others - who go forty days without eating do it by resolutely keeping out the - desire to eat, in the beginning, and that after a few hours the desire is - discouraged and comes no more. - </p> - <p> - Once I tried my scheme in a large medical way. I had been confined to my - bed several days with lumbago. My case refused to improve. Finally the - doctor said,— - </p> - <p> - "My remedies have no fair chance. Consider what they have to fight, - besides the lumbago. You smoke extravagantly, don't you?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "You take coffee immoderately?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "And some tea?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "You eat all kinds of things that are dissatisfied with each other's - company?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "You drink two hot Scotches every night?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "Very well, there you see what I have to contend against. We can't make - progress the way the matter stands. You must make a reduction in these - things; you must cut down your consumption of them considerably for some - days." - </p> - <p> - "I can't, doctor." - </p> - <p> - "Why can't you." - </p> - <p> - "I lack the will-power. I can cut them off entirely, but I can't merely - moderate them." - </p> - <p> - He said that that would answer, and said he would come around in - twenty-four hours and begin work again. He was taken ill himself and could - not come; but I did not need him. I cut off all those things for two days - and nights; in fact, I cut off all kinds of food, too, and all drinks - except water, and at the end of the forty-eight hours the lumbago was - discouraged and left me. I was a well man; so I gave thanks and took to - those delicacies again. - </p> - <p> - It seemed a valuable medical course, and I recommended it to a lady. She - had run down and down and down, and had at last reached a point where - medicines no longer had any helpful effect upon her. I said I knew I could - put her upon her feet in a week. It brightened her up, it filled her with - hope, and she said she would do everything I told her to do. So I said she - must stop swearing and drinking, and smoking and eating for four days, and - then she would be all right again. And it would have happened just so, I - know it; but she said she could not stop swearing, and smoking, and - drinking, because she had never done those things. So there it was. She - had neglected her habits, and hadn't any. Now that they would have come - good, there were none in stock. She had nothing to fall back on. She was a - sinking vessel, with no freight in her to throw overbpard and lighten ship - withal. Why, even one or two little bad habits could have saved her, but - she was just a moral pauper. When she could have acquired them she was - dissuaded by her parents, who were ignorant people though reared in the - best society, and it was too late to begin now. It seemed such a pity; but - there was no help for it. These things ought to be attended to while a - person is young; otherwise, when age and disease come, there is nothing - effectual to fight them with. - </p> - <p> - When I was a youth I used to take all kinds of pledges, and do my best to - keep them, but I never could, because I didn't strike at the root of the - habit—the desire; I generally broke down within the month. Once I - tried limiting a habit. That worked tolerably well for a while. I pledged - myself to smoke but one cigar a day. I kept the cigar waiting until - bedtime, then I had a luxurious time with it. But desire persecuted me - every day and all day long; so, within the week I found myself hunting for - larger cigars than I had been used to smoke; then larger ones still, and - still larger ones. Within the fortnight I was getting cigars made for me—on - a yet larger pattern. They still grew and grew in size. Within the month - my cigar had grown to such proportions that I could have used it as a - crutch. It now seemed to me that a one-cigar limit was no real protection - to a person, so I knocked my pledge on the head and resumed my liberty.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p032.jpg (67K)" src="images/p032.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - To go back to that young Canadian. He was a "remittance man," the first - one I had ever seen or heard of. Passengers explained the term to me. They - said that dissipated ne'er-do-wells belonging to important families in - England and Canada were not cast off by their people while there was any - hope of reforming them, but when that last hope perished at last, the - ne'er-do-well was sent abroad to get him out of the way. He was shipped - off with just enough money in his pocket—no, in the purser's pocket—for - the needs of the voyage—and when he reached his destined port he - would find a remittance awaiting him there. Not a large one, but just - enough to keep him a month. A similar remittance would come monthly - thereafter. It was the remittance-man's custom to pay his month's board - and lodging straightway—a duty which his landlord did not allow him - to forget—then spree away the rest of his money in a single night, - then brood and mope and grieve in idleness till the next remittance came. - It is a pathetic life. - </p> - <p> - We had other remittance-men on board, it was said. At least they said they - were R. M.'s. There were two. But they did not resemble the Canadian; they - lacked his tidiness, and his brains, and his gentlemanly ways, and his - resolute spirit, and his humanities and generosities. One of them was a - lad of nineteen or twenty, and he was a good deal of a ruin, as to - clothes, and morals, and general aspect. He said he was a scion of a ducal - house in England, and had been shipped to Canada for the house's relief, - that he had fallen into trouble there, and was now being shipped to - Australia. He said he had no title. Beyond this remark he was economical - of the truth. The first thing he did in Australia was to get into the - lockup, and the next thing he did was to proclaim himself an earl in the - police court in the morning and fail to prove it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p034.jpg (11K)" src="images/p034.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch2" id="ch2"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER II. - </h2> - <p> - <i>When in doubt, tell the truth.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - About four days out from Victoria we plunged into hot weather, and all the - male passengers put on white linen clothes. One or two days later we - crossed the 25th parallel of north latitude, and then, by order, the - officers of the ship laid away their blue uniforms and came out in white - linen ones. All the ladies were in white by this time. This prevalence of - snowy costumes gave the promenade deck an invitingly cool, and cheerful - and picnicky aspect. - </p> - <p> - From my diary: - </p> - <p> - There are several sorts of ills in the world from which a person can never - escape altogether, let him journey as far as he will. One escapes from one - breed of an ill only to encounter another breed of it. We have come far - from the snake liar and the fish liar, and there was rest and peace in the - thought; but now we have reached the realm of the boomerang liar, and - sorrow is with us once more. The first officer has seen a man try to - escape from his enemy by getting behind a tree; but the enemy sent his - boomerang sailing into the sky far above and beyond the tree; then it - turned, descended, and killed the man. The Australian passenger has seen - this thing done to two men, behind two trees—and by the one arrow. - This being received with a large silence that suggested doubt, he - buttressed it with the statement that his brother once saw the boomerang - kill a bird away off a hundred yards and bring it to the thrower. But - these are ills which must be borne. There is no other way. - </p> - <p> - The talk passed from the boomerang to dreams—usually a fruitful - subject, afloat or ashore—but this time the output was poor. Then it - passed to instances of extraordinary memory—with better results. - Blind Tom, the negro pianist, was spoken of, and it was said that he could - accurately play any piece of music, howsoever long and difficult, after - hearing it once; and that six months later he could accurately play it - again, without having touched it in the interval. One of the most striking - of the stories told was furnished by a gentleman who had served on the - staff of the Viceroy of India. He read the details from his note-book, and - explained that he had written them down, right after the consummation of - the incident which they described, because he thought that if he did not - put them down in black and white he might presently come to think he had - dreamed them or invented them. - </p> - <p> - The Viceroy was making a progress, and among the shows offered by the - Maharajah of Mysore for his entertainment was a memory-exhibition. The - Viceroy and thirty gentlemen of his suite sat in a row, and the - memory-expert, a high-caste Brahmin, was brought in and seated on the - floor in front of them. He said he knew but two languages, the English and - his own, but would not exclude any foreign tongue from the tests to be - applied to his memory. Then he laid before the assemblage his program—a - sufficiently extraordinary one. He proposed that one gentleman should give - him one word of a foreign sentence, and tell him its place in the - sentence. He was furnished with the French word 'est', and was told it was - second in a sentence of three words. The next gentleman gave him the - German word 'verloren' and said it was the third in a sentence of four - words. He asked the next gentleman for one detail in a sum in addition; - another for one detail in a sum of subtraction; others for single details - in mathematical problems of various kinds; he got them. Intermediates gave - him single words from sentences in Greek, Latin, Spanish, Portuguese, - Italian, and other languages, and told him their places in the sentences. - When at last everybody had furnished him a single rag from a foreign - sentence or a figure from a problem, he went over the ground again, and - got a second word and a second figure and was told their places in the - sentences and the sums; and so on and so on. He went over the ground again - and again until he had collected all the parts of the sums and all the - parts of the sentences—and all in disorder, of course, not in their - proper rotation. This had occupied two hours. - </p> - <p> - The Brahmin now sat silent and thinking, a while, then began and repeated - all the sentences, placing the words in their proper order, and untangled - the disordered arithmetical problems and gave accurate answers to them - all. - </p> - <p> - In the beginning he had asked the company to throw almonds at him during - the two hours, he to remember how many each gentleman had thrown; but none - were thrown, for the Viceroy said that the test would be a sufficiently - severe strain without adding that burden to it. - </p> - <p> - General Grant had a fine memory for all kinds of things, including even - names and faces, and I could have furnished an instance of it if I had - thought of it. The first time I ever saw him was early in his first term - as President. I had just arrived in Washington from the Pacific coast, a - stranger and wholly unknown to the public, and was passing the White House - one morning when I met a friend, a Senator from Nevada. He asked me if I - would like to see the President. I said I should be very glad; so we - entered. I supposed that the President would be in the midst of a crowd, - and that I could look at him in peace and security from a distance, as - another stray cat might look at another king. But it was in the morning, - and the Senator was using a privilege of his office which I had not heard - of—the privilege of intruding upon the Chief Magistrate's working - hours. Before I knew it, the Senator and I were in the presence, and there - was none there but we three. General Grant got slowly up from his table, - put his pen down, and stood before me with the iron expression of a man - who had not smiled for seven years, and was not intending to smile for - another seven. He looked me steadily in the eyes—mine lost - confidence and fell. I had never confronted a great man before, and was in - a miserable state of funk and inefficiency. The Senator said:— - </p> - <p> - "Mr. President, may I have the privilege of introducing Mr. Clemens?" - </p> - <p> - The President gave my hand an unsympathetic wag and dropped it. He did not - say a word but just stood. In my trouble I could not think of anything to - say, I merely wanted to resign. There was an awkward pause, a dreary - pause, a horrible pause. Then I thought of something, and looked up into - that unyielding face, and said timidly:— - </p> - <p> - "Mr. President, I—I am embarrassed. Are you?"<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p039.jpg (44K)" src="images/p039.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - His face broke—just a little—a wee glimmer, the momentary - flicker of a summer-lightning smile, seven years ahead of time—and I - was out and gone as soon as it was. - </p> - <p> - Ten years passed away before I saw him the second time. Meantime I was - become better known; and was one of the people appointed to respond to - toasts at the banquet given to General Grant in Chicago—by the Army - of the Tennessee when he came back from his tour around the world. I - arrived late at night and got up late in the morning. All the corridors of - the hotel were crowded with people waiting to get a glimpse of General - Grant when he should pass to the place whence he was to review the great - procession. I worked my way by the suite of packed drawing-rooms, and at - the corner of the house I found a window open where there was a roomy - platform decorated with flags, and carpeted. I stepped out on it, and saw - below me millions of people blocking all the streets, and other millions - caked together in all the windows and on all the house-tops around. These - masses took me for General Grant, and broke into volcanic explosions and - cheers; but it was a good place to see the procession, and I stayed. - Presently I heard the distant blare of military music, and far up the - street I saw the procession come in sight, cleaving its way through the - huzzaing multitudes, with Sheridan, the most martial figure of the War, - riding at its head in the dress uniform of a Lieutenant-General. - </p> - <p> - And now General Grant, arm-in-arm with Major Carter Harrison, stepped out - on the platform, followed two and two by the badged and uniformed - reception committee. General Grant was looking exactly as he had looked - upon that trying occasion of ten years before—all iron and bronze - self-possession. Mr. Harrison came over and led me to the General and - formally introduced me. Before I could put together the proper remark, - General Grant said— - </p> - <p> - "Mr. Clemens, I am not embarrassed. Are you?"—and that little - seven-year smile twinkled across his face again. - </p> - <p> - Seventeen years have gone by since then, and to-day, in New York, the - streets are a crush of people who are there to honor the remains of the - great soldier as they pass to their final resting-place under the - monument; and the air is heavy with dirges and the boom of artillery, and - all the millions of America are thinking of the man who restored the Union - and the flag, and gave to democratic government a new lease of life, and, - as we may hope and do believe, a permanent place among the beneficent - institutions of men. - </p> - <p> - We had one game in the ship which was a good time-passer—at least it - was at night in the smoking-room when the men were getting freshened up - from the day's monotonies and dullnesses. It was the completing of - non-complete stories. That is to say, a man would tell all of a story - except the finish, then the others would try to supply the ending out of - their own invention. When every one who wanted a chance had had it, the - man who had introduced the story would give it its original ending—then - you could take your choice. Sometimes the new endings turned out to be - better than the old one. But the story which called out the most - persistent and determined and ambitious effort was one which had no - ending, and so there was nothing to compare the new-made endings with. The - man who told it said he could furnish the particulars up to a certain - point only, because that was as much of the tale as he knew. He had read - it in a volume of sketches twenty-five years ago, and was interrupted - before the end was reached. He would give any one fifty dollars who would - finish the story to the satisfaction of a jury to be appointed by - ourselves. We appointed a jury and wrestled with the tale. We invented - plenty of endings, but the jury voted them all down. The jury was right. - It was a tale which the author of it may possibly have completed - satisfactorily, and if he really had that good fortune I would like to - know what the ending was. Any ordinary man will find that the story's - strength is in its middle, and that there is apparently no way to transfer - it to the close, where of course it ought to be. In substance the - storiette was as follows: - </p> - <p> - John Brown, aged thirty-one, good, gentle, bashful, timid, lived in a - quiet village in Missouri. He was superintendent of the Presbyterian - Sunday-school. It was but a humble distinction; still, it was his only - official one, and he was modestly proud of it and was devoted to its work - and its interests. The extreme kindliness of his nature was recognized by - all; in fact, people said that he was made entirely out of good impulses - and bashfulness; that he could always be counted upon for help when it was - needed, and for bashfulness both when it was needed and when it wasn't. - </p> - <p> - Mary Taylor, twenty-three, modest, sweet, winning, and in character and - person beautiful, was all in all to him. And he was very nearly all in all - to her. She was wavering, his hopes were high. Her mother had been in - opposition from the first. But she was wavering, too; he could see it. She - was being touched by his warm interest in her two charity-proteges and by - his contributions toward their support. These were two forlorn and aged - sisters who lived in a log hut in a lonely place up a cross road four - miles from Mrs. Taylor's farm. One of the sisters was crazy, and sometimes - a little violent, but not often. - </p> - <p> - At last the time seemed ripe for a final advance, and Brown gathered his - courage together and resolved to make it. He would take along a - contribution of double the usual size, and win the mother over; with her - opposition annulled, the rest of the conquest would be sure and prompt. - </p> - <p> - He took to the road in the middle of a placid Sunday afternoon in the soft - Missourian summer, and he was equipped properly for his mission. He was - clothed all in white linen, with a blue ribbon for a necktie, and he had - on dressy tight boots. His horse and buggy were the finest that the livery - stable could furnish. The lap robe was of white linen, it was new, and it - had a hand-worked border that could not be rivaled in that region for - beauty and elaboration. - </p> - <p> - When he was four miles out on the lonely road and was walking his horse - over a wooden bridge, his straw hat blew off and fell in the creek, and - floated down and lodged against a bar. He did not quite know what to do. - He must have the hat, that was manifest; but how was he to get it? - </p> - <p> - Then he had an idea. The roads were empty, nobody was stirring. Yes, he - would risk it. He led the horse to the roadside and set it to cropping the - grass; then he undressed and put his clothes in the buggy, petted the - horse a moment to secure its compassion and its loyalty, then hurried to - the stream. He swam out and soon had the hat. When he got to the top of - the bank the horse was gone! - </p> - <p> - His legs almost gave way under him. The horse was walking leisurely along - the road. Brown trotted after it, saying, "Whoa, whoa, there's a good - fellow;" but whenever he got near enough to chance a jump for the buggy, - the horse quickened its pace a little and defeated him. And so this went - on, the naked man perishing with anxiety, and expecting every moment to - see people come in sight. He tagged on and on, imploring the horse, - beseeching the horse, till he had left a mile behind him, and was closing - up on the Taylor premises; then at last he was successful, and got into - the buggy. He flung on his shirt, his necktie, and his coat; then reached - for—but he was too late; he sat suddenly down and pulled up the - lap-robe, for he saw some one coming out of the gate—a woman; he - thought. He wheeled the horse to the left, and struck briskly up the - cross-road. It was perfectly straight, and exposed on both sides; but - there were woods and a sharp turn three miles ahead, and he was very - grateful when he got there. As he passed around the turn he slowed down to - a walk, and reached for his tr—— too late again. - </p> - <p> - He had come upon Mrs. Enderby, Mrs. Glossop, Mrs. Taylor, and Mary. They - were on foot, and seemed tired and excited. They came at once to the buggy - and shook hands, and all spoke at once, and said eagerly and earnestly, - how glad they were that he was come, and how fortunate it was. And Mrs. - Enderby said, impressively: - </p> - <p> - "It looks like an accident, his coming at such a time; but let no one - profane it with such a name; he was sent—sent from on high." - </p> - <p> - They were all moved, and Mrs. Glossop said in an awed voice: - </p> - <p> - "Sarah Enderby, you never said a truer word in your life. This is no - accident, it is a special Providence. He was sent. He is an angel—an - angel as truly as ever angel was—an angel of deliverance. I say - angel, Sarah Enderby, and will have no other word. Don't let any one ever - say to me again, that there's no such thing as special Providences; for if - this isn't one, let them account for it that can." - </p> - <p> - "I know it's so," said Mrs. Taylor, fervently. "John Brown, I could - worship you; I could go down on my knees to you. Didn't something tell - you?—didn't you feel that you were sent? I could kiss the hem of - your laprobe." - </p> - <p> - He was not able to speak; he was helpless with shame and fright. Mrs. - Taylor went on: - </p> - <p> - "Why, just look at it all around, Julia Glossop. Any person can see the - hand of Providence in it. Here at noon what do we see? We see the smoke - rising. I speak up and say, 'That's the Old People's cabin afire.' Didn't - I, Julia Glossop?" - </p> - <p> - "The very words you said, Nancy Taylor. I was as close to you as I am now, - and I heard them. You may have said hut instead of cabin, but in substance - it's the same. And you were looking pale, too." - </p> - <p> - "Pale? I was that pale that if—why, you just compare it with this - laprobe. Then the next thing I said was, 'Mary Taylor, tell the hired man - to rig up the team-we'll go to the rescue.' And she said, 'Mother, don't - you know you told him he could drive to see his people, and stay over - Sunday?' And it was just so. I declare for it, I had forgotten it. 'Then,' - said I, 'we'll go afoot.' And go we did. And found Sarah Enderby on the - road." - </p> - <p> - "And we all went together," said Mrs. Enderby. "And found the cabin set - fire to and burnt down by the crazy one, and the poor old things so old - and feeble that they couldn't go afoot. And we got them to a shady place - and made them as comfortable as we could, and began to wonder which way to - turn to find some way to get them conveyed to Nancy Taylor's house. And I - spoke up and said—now what did I say? Didn't I say, 'Providence will - provide'?" - </p> - <p> - "Why sure as you live, so you did! I had forgotten it." - </p> - <p> - "So had I," said Mrs. Glossop and Mrs. Taylor; "but you certainly said it. - Now wasn't that remarkable?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, I said it. And then we went to Mr. Moseley's, two miles, and all of - them were gone to the camp meeting over on Stony Fork; and then we came - all the way back, two miles, and then here, another mile—and - Providence has provided. You see it yourselves." - </p> - <p> - They gazed at each other awe-struck, and lifted their hands and said in - unison: - </p> - <p> - "It's per-fectly wonderful." - </p> - <p> - "And then," said Mrs. Glossop, "what do you think we had better do--let - Mr. Brown drive the Old People to Nancy Taylor's one at a time, or put - both of them in the buggy, and him lead the horse?" - </p> - <p> - Brown gasped. - </p> - <p> - "Now, then, that's a question," said Mrs. Enderby. "You see, we are all - tired out, and any way we fix it it's going to be difficult. For if Mr. - Brown takes both of them, at least one of us must, go back to help him, - for he can't load them into the buggy by himself, and they so helpless." - </p> - <p> - "That is so," said Mrs. Taylor. "It doesn't look-oh, how would this do?—one - of us drive there with Mr. Brown, and the rest of you go along to my house - and get things ready. I'll go with him. He and I together can lift one of - the Old People into the buggy; then drive her to my house and—— - </p> - <p> - "But who will take care of the other one?" said Mrs. Enderby. "We musn't - leave her there in the woods alone, you know—especially the crazy - one. There and back is eight miles, you see." - </p> - <p> - They had all been sitting on the grass beside the buggy for a while, now, - trying to rest their weary bodies. They fell silent a moment or two, and - struggled in thought over the baffling situation; then Mrs. Enderby - brightened and said: - </p> - <p> - "I think I've got the idea, now. You see, we can't walk any more. Think - what we've done: four miles there, two to Moseley's, is six, then back to - here—nine miles since noon, and not a bite to eat; I declare I don't - see how we've done it; and as for me, I am just famishing. Now, somebody's - got to go back, to help Mr. Brown—there's no getting around that; - but whoever goes has got to ride, not walk. So my idea is this: one of us - to ride back with Mr. Brown, then ride to Nancy Taylor's house with one of - the Old People, leaving Mr. Brown to keep the other old one company, you - all to go now to Nancy's and rest and wait; then one of you drive back and - get the other one and drive her to Nancy's, and Mr. Brown walk." - </p> - <p> - "Splendid!" they all cried. "Oh, that will do—that will answer - perfectly." And they all said that Mrs. Enderby had the best head for - planning, in the company; and they said that they wondered that they - hadn't thought of this simple plan themselves. They hadn't meant to take - back the compliment, good simple souls, and didn't know they had done it. - After a consultation it was decided that Mrs. Enderby should drive back - with Brown, she being entitled to the distinction because she had invented - the plan. Everything now being satisfactorily arranged and settled, the - ladies rose, relieved and happy, and brushed down their gowns, and three - of them started homeward; Mrs. Enderby set her foot on the buggy-step and - was about to climb in, when Brown found a remnant of his voice and gasped - out— - </p> - <p> - "Please Mrs. Enderby, call them back—I am very weak; I can't walk, I - can't, indeed." - </p> - <p> - "Why, dear Mr. Brown! You do look pale; I am ashamed of myself that I - didn't notice it sooner. Come back-all of you! Mr. Brown is not well. Is - there anything I can do for you, Mr. Brown?—I'm real sorry. Are you - in pain?" - </p> - <p> - "No, madam, only weak; I am not sick, but only just weak—lately; not - long, but just lately." - </p> - <p> - The others came back, and poured out their sympathies and commiserations, - and were full of self-reproaches for not having noticed how pale he was. - </p> - <p> - And they at once struck out a new plan, and soon agreed that it was by far - the best of all. They would all go to Nancy Taylor's house and see to - Brown's needs first. He could lie on the sofa in the parlor, and while - Mrs. Taylor and Mary took care of him the other two ladies would take the - buggy and go and get one of the Old People, and leave one of themselves - with the other one, and—— - </p> - <p> - By this time, without any solicitation, they were at the horse's head and - were beginning to turn him around. The danger was imminent, but Brown - found his voice again and saved himself. He said— - </p> - <p> - "But ladies, you are overlooking something which makes the plan - impracticable. You see, if you bring one of them home, and one remains - behind with the other, there will be three persons there when one of you - comes back for that other, for some one must drive the buggy back, and - three can't come home in it." - </p> - <p> - They all exclaimed, "Why, sure-ly, that is so!" and they were, all - perplexed again. - </p> - <p> - "Dear, dear, what can we do?" said Mrs. Glossop; "it is the most mixed-up - thing that ever was. The fox and the goose and the corn and things—oh, - dear, they are nothing to it." - </p> - <p> - They sat wearily down once more, to further torture their tormented heads - for a plan that would work. Presently Mary offered a plan; it was her - first effort. She said: - </p> - <p> - "I am young and strong, and am refreshed, now. Take Mr. Brown to our - house, and give him help—you see how plainly he needs it. I will go - back and take care of the Old People; I can be there in twenty minutes. - You can go on and do what you first started to do—wait on the main - road at our house until somebody comes along with a wagon; then send and - bring away the three of us. You won't have to wait long; the farmers will - soon be coming back from town, now. I will keep old Polly patient and - cheered up—the crazy one doesn't need it." - </p> - <p> - This plan was discussed and accepted; it seemed the best that could be - done, in the circumstances, and the Old People must be getting discouraged - by this time. - </p> - <p> - Brown felt relieved, and was deeply thankful. Let him once get to the main - road and he would find a way to escape. - </p> - <p> - Then Mrs. Taylor said: - </p> - <p> - "The evening chill will be coming on, pretty soon, and those poor old - burnt-out things will need some kind of covering. Take the lap-robe with - you, dear." - </p> - <p> - "Very well, Mother, I will." - </p> - <p> - She stepped to the buggy and put out her hand to take it—— - </p> - <p> - That was the end of the tale. The passenger who told it said that when he - read the story twenty-five years ago in a train he was interrupted at that - point—the train jumped off a bridge. - </p> - <p> - At first we thought we could finish the story quite easily, and we set to - work with confidence; but it soon began to appear that it was not a simple - thing, but difficult and baffling. This was on account of Brown's - character—great generosity and kindliness, but complicated with - unusual shyness and diffidence, particularly in the presence of ladies. - There was his love for Mary, in a hopeful state but not yet secure—just - in a condition, indeed, where its affair must be handled with great tact, - and no mistakes made, no offense given. And there was the mother wavering, - half willing-by adroit and flawless diplomacy to be won over, now, or - perhaps never at all. Also, there were the helpless Old People yonder in - the woods waiting-their fate and Brown's happiness to be determined by - what Brown should do within the next two seconds. Mary was reaching for - the lap-robe; Brown must decide-there was no time to be lost. - </p> - <p> - Of course none but a happy ending of the story would be accepted by the - jury; the finish must find Brown in high credit with the ladies, his - behavior without blemish, his modesty unwounded, his character for self - sacrifice maintained, the Old People rescued through him, their - benefactor, all the party proud of him, happy in him, his praises on all - their tongues. - </p> - <p> - We tried to arrange this, but it was beset with persistent and - irreconcilable difficulties. We saw that Brown's shyness would not allow - him to give up the lap-robe. This would offend Mary and her mother; and it - would surprise the other ladies, partly because this stinginess toward the - suffering Old People would be out of character with Brown, and partly - because he was a special Providence and could not properly act so. If - asked to explain his conduct, his shyness would not allow him to tell the - truth, and lack of invention and practice would find him incapable of - contriving a lie that would wash. We worked at the troublesome problem - until three in the morning. - </p> - <p> - Meantime Mary was still reaching for the lap-robe. We gave it up, and - decided to let her continue to reach. It is the reader's privilege to - determine for himself how the thing came out.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <table summary="STORY"> - <tr> - <td> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p043.jpg (11K)" src="images/p043.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - - </td> - <td> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p047.jpg (10K)" src="images/p047.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch3" id="ch3"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER III. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It is more trouble to make a maxim than it is to do right.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p049.jpg (41K)" src="images/p049.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - On the seventh day out we saw a dim vast bulk standing up out of the - wastes of the Pacific and knew that that spectral promontory was Diamond - Head, a piece of this world which I had not seen before for twenty-nine - years. So we were nearing Honolulu, the capital city of the Sandwich - Islands—those islands which to me were Paradise; a Paradise which I - had been longing all those years to see again. Not any other thing in the - world could have stirred me as the sight of that great rock did. - </p> - <p> - In the night we anchored a mile from shore. Through my port I could see - the twinkling lights of Honolulu and the dark bulk of the mountain-range - that stretched away right and left. I could not make out the beautiful - Nuuana valley, but I knew where it lay, and remembered how it used to look - in the old times. We used to ride up it on horseback in those days—we - young people—and branch off and gather bones in a sandy region where - one of the first Kamehameha's battles was fought. He was a remarkable man, - for a king; and he was also a remarkable man for a savage. He was a mere - kinglet and of little or no consequence at the time of Captain Cook's - arrival in 1788; but about four years afterward he conceived the idea of - enlarging his sphere of influence. That is a courteous modern phrase which - means robbing your neighbor—for your neighbor's benefit; and the - great theater of its benevolences is Africa. Kamehameha went to war, and - in the course of ten years he whipped out all the other kings and made - himself master of every one of the nine or ten islands that form the - group. But he did more than that. He bought ships, freighted them with - sandal wood and other native products, and sent them as far as South - America and China; he sold to his savages the foreign stuffs and tools and - utensils which came back in these ships, and started the march of - civilization. It is doubtful if the match to this extraordinary thing is - to be found in the history of any other savage. Savages are eager to learn - from the white man any new way to kill each other, but it is not their - habit to seize with avidity and apply with energy the larger and nobler - ideas which he offers them. The details of Kamehameha's history show that - he was always hospitably ready to examine the white man's ideas, and that - he exercised a tidy discrimination in making his selections from the - samples placed on view. - </p> - <p> - A shrewder discrimination than was exhibited by his son and successor, - Liholiho, I think. Liholiho could have qualified as a reformer, perhaps, - but as a king he was a mistake. A mistake because he tried to be both king - and reformer. This is mixing fire and gunpowder together. A king has no - proper business with reforming. His best policy is to keep things as they - are; and if he can't do that, he ought to try to make them worse than they - are. This is not guesswork; I have thought over this matter a good deal, - so that if I should ever have a chance to become a king I would know how - to conduct the business in the best way. - </p> - <p> - When Liholiho succeeded his father he found himself possessed of an - equipment of royal tools and safeguards which a wiser king would have - known how to husband, and judiciously employ, and make profitable. The - entire country was under the one scepter, and his was that scepter. There - was an Established Church, and he was the head of it. There was a Standing - Army, and he was the head of that; an Army of 114 privates under command - of 27 Generals and a Field Marshal. There was a proud and ancient - Hereditary Nobility. There was still one other asset. This was the tabu—an - agent endowed with a mysterious and stupendous power, an agent not found - among the properties of any European monarch, a tool of inestimable value - in the business. Liholiho was headmaster of the tabu. The tabu was the - most ingenious and effective of all the inventions that has ever been - devised for keeping a people's privileges satisfactorily restricted. - </p> - <p> - It required the sexes to live in separate houses. It did not allow people - to eat in either house; they must eat in another place. It did not allow a - man's woman-folk to enter his house. It did not allow the sexes to eat - together; the men must eat first, and the women must wait on them. Then - the women could eat what was left—if anything was left—and - wait on themselves. I mean, if anything of a coarse or unpalatable sort - was left, the women could have it. But not the good things, the fine - things, the choice things, such as pork, poultry, bananas, cocoanuts, the - choicer varieties of fish, and so on. By the tabu, all these were sacred - to the men; the women spent their lives longing for them and wondering - what they might taste like; and they died without finding out. - </p> - <p> - These rules, as you see, were quite simple and clear. It was easy to - remember them; and useful. For the penalty for infringing any rule in the - whole list was death. Those women easily learned to put up with shark and - taro and dog for a diet when the other things were so expensive. - </p> - <p> - It was death for any one to walk upon tabu'd ground; or defile a tabu'd - thing with his touch; or fail in due servility to a chief; or step upon - the king's shadow. The nobles and the King and the priests were always - suspending little rags here and there and yonder, to give notice to the - people that the decorated spot or thing was tabu, and death lurking near. - The struggle for life was difficult and chancy in the islands in those - days.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p053.jpg (14K)" src="images/p053.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Thus advantageously was the new king situated. Will it be believed that - the first thing he did was to destroy his Established Church, root and - branch? He did indeed do that. To state the case figuratively, he was a - prosperous sailor who burnt his ship and took to a raft. This Church was a - horrid thing. It heavily oppressed the people; it kept them always - trembling in the gloom of mysterious threatenings; it slaughtered them in - sacrifice before its grotesque idols of wood and stone; it cowed them, it - terrorized them, it made them slaves to its priests, and through the - priests to the king. It was the best friend a king could have, and the - most dependable. To a professional reformer who should annihilate so - frightful and so devastating a power as this Church, reverence and praise - would be due; but to a king who should do it, could properly be due - nothing but reproach; reproach softened by sorrow; sorrow for his - unfitness for his position. - </p> - <p> - He destroyed his Established Church, and his kingdom is a republic today, - in consequence of that act. - </p> - <p> - When he destroyed the Church and burned the idols he did a mighty thing - for civilization and for his people's weal—but it was not - "business." It was unkingly, it was inartistic. It made trouble for his - line. The American missionaries arrived while the burned idols were still - smoking. They found the nation without a religion, and they repaired the - defect. They offered their own religion and it was gladly received. But it - was no support to arbitrary kingship, and so the kingly power began to - weaken from that day. Forty-seven years later, when I was in the islands, - Kamehameha V. was trying to repair Liholiho's blunder, and not succeeding. - He had set up an Established Church and made himself the head of it. But - it was only a pinchbeck thing, an imitation, a bauble, an empty show. It - had no power, no value for a king. It could not harry or burn or slay, it - in no way resembled the admirable machine which Liholiho destroyed. It was - an Established Church without an Establishment; all the people were - Dissenters. - </p> - <p> - Long before that, the kingship had itself become but a name, a show. At an - early day the missionaries had turned it into something very much like a - republic; and here lately the business whites have turned it into - something exactly like it. - </p> - <p> - In Captain Cook's time (1778), the native population of the islands was - estimated at 400,000; in 1836 at something short of 200,000, in 1866 at - 50,000; it is to-day, per census, 25,000. All intelligent people praise - Kamehameha I. and Liholiho for conferring upon their people the great boon - of civilization. I would do it myself, but my intelligence is out of - repair, now, from over-work. - </p> - <p> - When I was in the islands nearly a generation ago, I was acquainted with a - young American couple who had among their belongings an attractive little - son of the age of seven—attractive but not practicably companionable - with me, because he knew no English. He had played from his birth with the - little Kanakas on his father's plantation, and had preferred their - language and would learn no other. The family removed to America a month - after I arrived in the islands, and straightway the boy began to lose his - Kanaka and pick up English. By the time he was twelve he hadn't a word of - Kanaka left; the language had wholly departed from his tongue and from his - comprehension. Nine years later, when he was twenty-one, I came upon the - family in one of the lake towns of New York, and the mother told me about - an adventure which her son had been having. By trade he was now a - professional diver. A passenger boat had been caught in a storm on the - lake, and had gone down, carrying her people with her. A few days later - the young diver descended, with his armor on, and entered the berth-saloon - of the boat, and stood at the foot of the companionway, with his hand on - the rail, peering through the dim water. Presently something touched him - on the shoulder, and he turned and found a dead man swaying and bobbing - about him and seemingly inspecting him inquiringly. He was paralyzed with - fright.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p056.jpg (80K)" src="images/p056.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - His entry had disturbed the water, and now he discerned a number of dim - corpses making for him and wagging their heads and swaying their bodies - like sleepy people trying to dance. His senses forsook him, and in that - condition he was drawn to the surface. He was put to bed at home, and was - soon very ill. During some days he had seasons of delirium which lasted - several hours at a time; and while they lasted he talked Kanaka - incessantly and glibly; and Kanaka only. He was still very ill, and he - talked to me in that tongue; but I did not understand it, of course. The - doctor-books tell us that cases like this are not uncommon. Then the - doctors ought to study the cases and find out how to multiply them. Many - languages and things get mislaid in a person's head, and stay mislaid for - lack of this remedy. - </p> - <p> - Many memories of my former visit to the islands came up in my mind while - we lay at anchor in front of Honolulu that night. And pictures—pictures - pictures—an enchanting procession of them! I was impatient for the - morning to come. - </p> - <p> - When it came it brought disappointment, of course. Cholera had broken out - in the town, and we were not allowed to have any communication with the - shore. Thus suddenly did my dream of twenty-nine years go to ruin. - Messages came from friends, but the friends themselves I was not to have - any sight of. My lecture-hall was ready, but I was not to see that, - either. - </p> - <p> - Several of our passengers belonged in Honolulu, and these were sent - ashore; but nobody could go ashore and return. There were people on shore - who were booked to go with us to Australia, but we could not receive them; - to do it would cost us a quarantine-term in Sydney. They could have - escaped the day before, by ship to San Francisco; but the bars had been - put up, now, and they might have to wait weeks before any ship could - venture to give them a passage any whither. And there were hardships for - others. An elderly lady and her son, recreation-seekers from - Massachusetts, had wandered westward, further and further from home, - always intending to take the return track, but always concluding to go - still a little further; and now here they were at anchor before Honolulu - positively their last westward-bound indulgence—they had made up - their minds to that—but where is the use in making up your mind in - this world? It is usually a waste of time to do it. These two would have - to stay with us as far as Australia. Then they could go on around the - world, or go back the way they had come; the distance and the - accommodations and outlay of time would be just the same, whichever of the - two routes they might elect to take. Think of it: a projected excursion of - five hundred miles gradually enlarged, without any elaborate degree of - intention, to a possible twenty-four thousand. However, they were used to - extensions by this time, and did not mind this new one much. - </p> - <p> - And we had with us a lawyer from Victoria, who had been sent out by the - Government on an international matter, and he had brought his wife with - him and left the children at home with the servants and now what was to be - done? Go ashore amongst the cholera and take the risks? Most certainly - not. They decided to go on, to the Fiji islands, wait there a fortnight - for the next ship, and then sail for home. They couldn't foresee that they - wouldn't see a homeward-bound ship again for six weeks, and that no word - could come to them from the children, and no word go from them to the - children in all that time. It is easy to make plans in this world; even a - cat can do it; and when one is out in those remote oceans it is noticeable - that a cat's plans and a man's are worth about the same. There is much the - same shrinkage in both, in the matter of values. - </p> - <p> - There was nothing for us to do but sit about the decks in the shade of the - awnings and look at the distant shore. We lay in luminous blue water; - shoreward the water was green-green and brilliant; at the shore itself it - broke in a long white ruffle, and with no crash, no sound that we could - hear. The town was buried under a mat of foliage that looked like a - cushion of moss. The silky mountains were clothed in soft, rich splendors - of melting color, and some of the cliffs were veiled in slanting mists. I - recognized it all. It was just as I had seen it long before, with nothing - of its beauty lost, nothing of its charm wanting. - </p> - <p> - A change had come, but that was political, and not visible from the ship. - The monarchy of my day was gone, and a republic was sitting in its seat. - It was not a material change. The old imitation pomps, the fuss and - feathers, have departed, and the royal trademark—that is about all - that one could miss, I suppose. That imitation monarchy, was grotesque - enough, in my time; if it had held on another thirty years it would have - been a monarchy without subjects of the king's race. - </p> - <p> - We had a sunset of a very fine sort. The vast plain of the sea was marked - off in bands of sharply-contrasted colors: great stretches of dark blue, - others of purple, others of polished bronze; the billowy mountains showed - all sorts of dainty browns and greens, blues and purples and blacks, and - the rounded velvety backs of certain of them made one want to stroke them, - as one would the sleek back of a cat. The long, sloping promontory - projecting into the sea at the west turned dim and leaden and spectral, - then became suffused with pink—dissolved itself in a pink dream, so - to speak, it seemed so airy and unreal. Presently the cloud-rack was - flooded with fiery splendors, and these were copied on the surface of the - sea, and it made one drunk with delight to look upon it. - </p> - <p> - From talks with certain of our passengers whose home was Honolulu, and - from a sketch by Mrs. Mary H. Krout, I was able to perceive what the - Honolulu of to-day is, as compared with the Honolulu of my time. In my - time it was a beautiful little town, made up of snow-white wooden cottages - deliciously smothered in tropical vines and flowers and trees and shrubs; - and its coral roads and streets were hard and smooth, and as white as the - houses. The outside aspects of the place suggested the presence of a - modest and comfortable prosperity—a general prosperity—perhaps - one might strengthen the term and say universal. There were no fine - houses, no fine furniture. There were no decorations. Tallow candles - furnished the light for the bedrooms, a whale-oil lamp furnished it for - the parlor. Native matting served as carpeting. In the parlor one would - find two or three lithographs on the walls—portraits as a rule: - Kamehameha IV., Louis Kossuth, Jenny Lind; and may be an engraving or two: - Rebecca at the Well, Moses smiting the rock, Joseph's servants finding the - cup in Benjamin's sack. There would be a center table, with books of a - tranquil sort on it: The Whole Duty of Man, Baxter's Saints' Rest, Fox's - Martyrs, Tupper's Proverbial Philosophy, bound copies of The Missionary - Herald and of Father Damon's Seaman's Friend. A melodeon; a music stand, - with 'Willie, We have Missed You', 'Star of the Evening', 'Roll on Silver - Moon', 'Are We Most There', 'I Would not Live Alway', and other songs of - love and sentiment, together with an assortment of hymns. A what-not with - semi-globular glass paperweights, enclosing miniature pictures of ships, - New England rural snowstorms, and the like; sea-shells with Bible texts - carved on them in cameo style; native curios; whale's tooth with - full-rigged ship carved on it. There was nothing reminiscent of foreign - parts, for nobody had been abroad. Trips were made to San Francisco, but - that could not be called going abroad. Comprehensively speaking, nobody - traveled. - </p> - <p> - But Honolulu has grown wealthy since then, and of course wealth has - introduced changes; some of the old simplicities have disappeared. Here is - a modern house, as pictured by Mrs. Krout: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Almost every house is surrounded by extensive lawns and gardens - enclosed by walls of volcanic stone or by thick hedges of the brilliant - hibiscus. - </p> - <p> - "The houses are most tastefully and comfortably furnished; the floors - are either of hard wood covered with rugs or with fine Indian matting, - while there is a preference, as in most warm countries, for rattan or - bamboo furniture; there are the usual accessories of bric-a-brac, - pictures, books, and curios from all parts of the world, for these - island dwellers are indefatigable travelers. - </p> - <p> - "Nearly every house has what is called a lanai. It is a large apartment, - roofed, floored, open on three sides, with a door or a draped archway - opening into the drawing-room. Frequently the roof is formed by the - thick interlacing boughs of the hou tree, impervious to the sun and even - to the rain, except in violent storms. Vines are trained about the sides—the - stephanotis or some one of the countless fragrant and blossoming - trailers which abound in the islands. There are also curtains of matting - that may be drawn to exclude the sun or rain. The floor is bare for - coolness, or partially covered with rugs, and the lanai is prettily - furnished with comfortable chairs, sofas, and tables loaded with - flowers, or wonderful ferns in pots. - </p> - <p> - "The lanai is the favorite reception room, and here at any social - function the musical program is given and cakes and ices are served; - here morning callers are received, or gay riding parties, the ladies in - pretty divided skirts, worn for convenience in riding astride,—the - universal mode adopted by Europeans and Americans, as well as by the - natives. - </p> - <p> - "The comfort and luxury of such an apartment, especially at a seashore - villa, can hardly be imagined. The soft breezes sweep across it, heavy - with the fragrance of jasmine and gardenia, and through the swaying - boughs of palm and mimosa there are glimpses of rugged mountains, their - summits veiled in clouds, of purple sea with the white surf beating - eternally against the reefs, whiter still in the yellow sunlight or the - magical moonlight of the tropics." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There: rugs, ices, pictures, lanais, worldly books, sinful bric-a-brac - fetched from everywhere. And the ladies riding astride. These are changes, - indeed. In my time the native women rode astride, but the white ones - lacked the courage to adopt their wise custom. In my time ice was seldom - seen in Honolulu. It sometimes came in sailing vessels from New England as - ballast; and then, if there happened to be a man-of-war in port and balls - and suppers raging by consequence, the ballast was worth six hundred - dollars a ton, as is evidenced by reputable tradition. But the ice-machine - has traveled all over the world, now, and brought ice within everybody's - reach. In Lapland and Spitzbergen no one uses native ice in our day, - except the bears and the walruses. - </p> - <p> - The bicycle is not mentioned. It was not necessary. We know that it is - there, without inquiring. It is everywhere. But for it, people could never - have had summer homes on the summit of Mont Blanc; before its day, - property up there had but a nominal value. The ladies of the Hawaiian - capital learned too late the right way to occupy a horse—too late to - get much benefit from it. The riding-horse is retiring from business - everywhere in the world. In Honolulu a few years from now he will be only - a tradition. - </p> - <p> - We all know about Father Damien, the French priest who voluntarily forsook - the world and went to the leper island of Molokai to labor among its - population of sorrowful exiles who wait there, in slow-consuming misery, - for death to come and release them from their troubles; and we know that - the thing which he knew beforehand would happen, did happen: that he - became a leper himself, and died of that horrible disease. There was still - another case of self-sacrifice, it appears. I asked after "Billy" - Ragsdale, interpreter to the Parliament in my time—a half-white. He - was a brilliant young fellow, and very popular. As an interpreter he would - have been hard to match anywhere. He used to stand up in the Parliament - and turn the English speeches into Hawaiian and the Hawaiian speeches into - English with a readiness and a volubility that were astonishing. I asked - after him, and was told that his prosperous career was cut short in a - sudden and unexpected way, just as he was about to marry a beautiful - half-caste girl. He discovered, by some nearly invisible sign about his - skin, that the poison of leprosy was in him. The secret was his own, and - might be kept concealed for years; but he would not be treacherous to the - girl that loved him; he would not marry her to a doom like his. And so he - put his affairs in order, and went around to all his friends and bade them - good-bye, and sailed in the leper ship to Molokai. There he died the - loathsome and lingering death that all lepers die. - </p> - <p> - In this place let me insert a paragraph or two from "The Paradise of the - Pacific" (Rev. H. H. Gowen)— - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Poor lepers! It is easy for those who have no relatives or friends - among them to enforce the decree of segregation to the letter, but who - can write of the terrible, the heart-breaking scenes which that - enforcement has brought about? - </p> - <p> - "A man upon Hawaii was suddenly taken away after a summary arrest, - leaving behind him a helpless wife about to give birth to a babe. The - devoted wife with great pain and risk came the whole journey to - Honolulu, and pleaded until the authorities were unable to resist her - entreaty that she might go and live like a leper with her leper husband. - </p> - <p> - "A woman in the prime of life and activity is condemned as an incipient - leper, suddenly removed from her home, and her husband returns to find - his two helpless babes moaning for their lost mother. - </p> - <p> - "Imagine it! The case of the babies is hard, but its bitterness is a - trifle—less than a trifle—less than nothing—compared - to what the mother must suffer; and suffer minute by minute, hour by - hour, day by day, month by month, year by year, without respite, relief, - or any abatement of her pain till she dies. - </p> - <p> - "One woman, Luka Kaaukau, has been living with her leper husband in the - settlement for twelve years. The man has scarcely a joint left, his - limbs are only distorted ulcerated stumps, for four years his wife has - put every particle of food into his mouth. He wanted his wife to abandon - his wretched carcass long ago, as she herself was sound and well, but - Luka said that she was content to remain and wait on the man she loved - till the spirit should be freed from its burden. - </p> - <p> - "I myself have known hard cases enough:—of a girl, apparently in - full health, decorating the church with me at Easter, who before - Christmas is taken away as a confirmed leper; of a mother hiding her - child in the mountains for years so that not even her dearest friends - knew that she had a child alive, that he might not be taken away; of a - respectable white man taken away from his wife and family, and compelled - to become a dweller in the Leper Settlement, where he is counted dead, - even by the insurance companies." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And one great pity of it all is, that these poor sufferers are innocent. - The leprosy does not come of sins which they committed, but of sins - committed by their ancestors, who escaped the curse of leprosy! - </p> - <p> - Mr. Gowan has made record of a certain very striking circumstance. Would - you expect to find in that awful Leper Settlement a custom worthy to be - transplanted to your own country? They have one such, and it is - inexpressibly touching and beautiful. When death sets open the prison-door - of life there, the band salutes the freed soul with a burst of glad music!<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch4" id="ch4"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER IV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>A dozen direct censures are easier to bear than one morganatic - compliment.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Sailed from Honolulu.—From diary: - </p> - <p> - Sept. 2. Flocks of flying fish-slim, shapely, graceful, and intensely - white. With the sun on them they look like a flight of silver - fruit-knives. They are able to fly a hundred yards. - </p> - <p> - Sept. 3. In 9 deg. 50' north latitude, at breakfast. Approaching the - equator on a long slant. Those of us who have never seen the equator are a - good deal excited. I think I would rather see it than any other thing in - the world. We entered the "doldrums" last night—variable winds, - bursts of rain, intervals of calm, with chopping seas and a wobbly and - drunken motion to the ship—a condition of things findable in other - regions sometimes, but present in the doldrums always. The globe-girdling - belt called the doldrums is 20 degrees wide, and the thread called the - equator lies along the middle of it. - </p> - <p> - Sept. 4. Total eclipse of the moon last night. At 7.30 it began to go off. - At total—or about that—it was like a rich rosy cloud with a - tumbled surface framed in the circle and projecting from it—a bulge - of strawberry-ice, so to speak. At half-eclipse the moon was like a gilded - acorn in its cup.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p066.jpg (9K)" src="images/p066.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Sept. 5. Closing in on the equator this noon. A sailor explained to a - young girl that the ship's speed is poor because we are climbing up the - bulge toward the center of the globe; but that when we should once get - over, at the equator, and start down-hill, we should fly. When she asked - him the other day what the fore-yard was, he said it was the front yard, - the open area in the front end of the ship. That man has a good deal of - learning stored up, and the girl is likely to get it all.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p067.jpg (64K)" src="images/p067.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Afternoon. Crossed the equator. In the distance it looked like a blue - ribbon stretched across the ocean. Several passengers kodak'd it. We had - no fool ceremonies, no fantastics, no horse play. All that sort of thing - has gone out. In old times a sailor, dressed as Neptune, used to come in - over the bows, with his suite, and lather up and shave everybody who was - crossing the equator for the first time, and then cleanse these - unfortunates by swinging them from the yard-arm and ducking them three - times in the sea. This was considered funny. Nobody knows why. No, that is - not true. We do know why. Such a thing could never be funny on land; no - part of the old-time grotesque performances gotten up on shipboard to - celebrate the passage of the line could ever be funny on shore—they - would seem dreary and witless to shore people. But the shore people would - change their minds about it at sea, on a long voyage. On such a voyage, - with its eternal monotonies, people's intellects deteriorate; the owners - of the intellects soon reach a point where they almost seem to prefer - childish things to things of a maturer degree. One is often surprised at - the juvenilities which grown people indulge in at sea, and the interest - they take in them, and the consuming enjoyment they get out of them. This - is on long voyages only. The mind gradually becomes inert, dull, blunted; - it loses its accustomed interest in intellectual things; nothing but - horse-play can rouse it, nothing but wild and foolish grotesqueries can - entertain it. On short voyages it makes no such exposure of itself; it - hasn't time to slump down to this sorrowful level. - </p> - <p> - The short-voyage passenger gets his chief physical exercise out of - "horse-billiards"—shovel-board. It is a good game. We play it in - this ship. A quartermaster chalks off a diagram like this-on the deck. - </p> - <p> - The player uses a cue that is like a broom-handle with a quarter-moon of - wood fastened to the end of it. With this he shoves wooden disks the size - of a saucer—he gives the disk a vigorous shove and sends it fifteen - or twenty feet along the deck and lands it in one of the squares if he - can. If it stays there till the inning is played out, it will count as - many points in the game as the figure in the square it has stopped in - represents. The adversary plays to knock that disk out and leave his own - in its place—particularly if it rests upon the 9 or 10 or some other - of the high numbers; but if it rests in the "10off" he backs it up—lands - his disk behind it a foot or two, to make it difficult for its owner to - knock it out of that damaging place and improve his record. When the - inning is played out it may be found that each adversary has placed his - four disks where they count; it may be found that some of them are - touching chalk lines and not counting; and very often it will be found - that there has been a general wreckage, and that not a disk has been left - within the diagram. Anyway, the result is recorded, whatever it is, and - the game goes on. The game is 100 points, and it takes from twenty minutes - to forty to play it, according to luck and the condition of the sea. It is - an exciting game, and the crowd of spectators furnish abundance of - applause for fortunate shots and plenty of laughter for the other kind. It - is a game of skill, but at the same time the uneasy motion of the ship is - constantly interfering with skill; this makes it a chancy game, and the - element of luck comes largely in.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p068.jpg (37K)" src="images/p068.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - We had a couple of grand tournaments, to determine who should be "Champion - of the Pacific"; they included among the participants nearly all the - passengers, of both sexes, and the officers of the ship, and they afforded - many days of stupendous interest and excitement, and murderous exercise—for - horse-billiards is a physically violent game. - </p> - <p> - The figures in the following record of some of the closing games in the - first tournament will show, better than any description, how very chancy - the game is. The losers here represented had all been winners in the - previous games of the series, some of them by fine majorities: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - Chase, - </td> - <td> - 102 - </td> - <td> - Mrs. D., - </td> - <td> - 57 - </td> - <td> - Mortimer, - </td> - <td> - 105 - </td> - <td> - The Surgeon, - </td> - <td> - 92 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Miss C., - </td> - <td> - 105 - </td> - <td> - Mrs. T., - </td> - <td> - 9 - </td> - <td> - Clemens, - </td> - <td> - 101 - </td> - <td> - Taylor, - </td> - <td> - 92 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Taylor, - </td> - <td> - 109 - </td> - <td> - Davies, - </td> - <td> - 95 - </td> - <td> - Miss C., - </td> - <td> - 108 - </td> - <td> - Mortimer, - </td> - <td> - 55 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Thomas, - </td> - <td> - 102 - </td> - <td> - Roper, - </td> - <td> - 76 - </td> - <td> - Clemens, - </td> - <td> - 111 - </td> - <td> - Miss C., - </td> - <td> - 89 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Coomber, - </td> - <td> - 106 - </td> - <td> - Chase, - </td> - <td> - 98 - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - And so on; until but three couples of winners were left. Then I beat my - man, young Smith beat his man, and Thomas beat his. This reduced the - combatants to three. Smith and I took the deck, and I led off. At the - close of the first inning I was 10 worse than nothing and Smith had scored - 7. The luck continued against me. When I was 57, Smith was 97—within - 3 of out. The luck changed then. He picked up a 10-off or so, and couldn't - recover. I beat him. - </p> - <p> - The next game would end tournament No. 1. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Thomas and I were the contestants. He won the lead and went to the bat—so - to speak. And there he stood, with the crotch of his cue resting against - his disk while the ship rose slowly up, sank slowly down, rose again, sank - again. She never seemed to rise to suit him exactly. She started up once - more; and when she was nearly ready for the turn, he let drive and landed - his disk just within the left-hand end of the 10. (Applause). The umpire - proclaimed "a good 10," and the game-keeper set it down. I played: my disk - grazed the edge of Mr. Thomas's disk, and went out of the diagram. (No - applause.) - </p> - <p> - Mr. Thomas played again—and landed his second disk alongside of the - first, and almost touching its right-hand side. "Good 10." (Great - applause.) - </p> - <p> - I played, and missed both of them. (No applause.) - </p> - <p> - Mr. Thomas delivered his third shot and landed his disk just at the right - of the other two. " Good 10." (Immense applause.) - </p> - <p> - There they lay, side by side, the three in a row. It did not seem possible - that anybody could miss them. Still I did it. (Immense silence.) - </p> - <p> - Mr. Thomas played his last disk. It seems incredible, but he actually - landed that disk alongside of the others, and just to the right of them-a - straight solid row of 4 disks. (Tumultuous and long-continued applause.) - </p> - <p> - Then I played my last disk. Again it did not seem possible that anybody - could miss that row—a row which would have been 14 inches long if - the disks had been clamped together; whereas, with the spaces separating - them they made a longer row than that. But I did it. It may be that I was - getting nervous. - </p> - <p> - I think it unlikely that that innings has ever had its parallel in the - history of horse-billiards. To place the four disks side by side in the 10 - was an extraordinary feat; indeed, it was a kind of miracle. To miss them - was another miracle. It will take a century to produce another man who can - place the four disks in the 10; and longer than that to find a man who - can't knock them out. I was ashamed of my performance at the time, but now - that I reflect upon it I see that it was rather fine and difficult. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Thomas kept his luck, and won the game, and later the championship. - </p> - <p> - In a minor tournament I won the prize, which was a Waterbury watch. I put - it in my trunk. In Pretoria, South Africa, nine months afterward, my - proper watch broke down and I took the Waterbury out, wound it, set it by - the great clock on the Parliament House (8.05), then went back to my room - and went to bed, tired from a long railway journey. The parliamentary - clock had a peculiarity which I was not aware of at the time—a - peculiarity which exists in no other clock, and would not exist in that - one if it had been made by a sane person; on the half-hour it strikes the - succeeding hour, then strikes the hour again, at the proper time. I lay - reading and smoking awhile; then, when I could hold my eyes open no longer - and was about to put out the light, the great clock began to boom, and I - counted ten. I reached for the Waterbury to see how it was getting along. - It was marking 9.30. It seemed rather poor speed for a three-dollar watch, - but I supposed that the climate was affecting it. I shoved it half an hour - ahead; and took to my book and waited to see what would happen. At 10 the - great clock struck ten again. I looked—the Waterbury was marking - half-past 10. This was too much speed for the money, and it troubled me. I - pushed the hands back a half hour, and waited once more; I had to, for I - was vexed and restless now, and my sleepiness was gone. By and by the - great clock struck 11. The Waterbury was marking 10.30. I pushed it ahead - half an hour, with some show of temper. By and by the great clock struck - 11 again. The Waterbury showed up 11.30, now, and I beat her brains out - against the bedstead. I was sorry next day, when I found out.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p072.jpg (22K)" src="images/p072.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - To return to the ship. - </p> - <p> - The average human being is a perverse creature; and when he isn't that, he - is a practical joker. The result to the other person concerned is about - the same: that is, he is made to suffer. The washing down of the decks - begins at a very early hour in all ships; in but few ships are any - measures taken to protect the passengers, either by waking or warning - them, or by sending a steward to close their ports. And so the deckwashers - have their opportunity, and they use it. They send a bucket of water - slashing along the side of the ship and into the ports, drenching the - passenger's clothes, and often the passenger himself. This good old custom - prevailed in this ship, and under unusually favorable circumstances, for - in the blazing tropical regions a removable zinc thing like a sugarshovel - projects from the port to catch the wind and bring it in; this thing - catches the wash-water and brings it in, too—and in flooding - abundance. Mrs. I., an invalid, had to sleep on the locker—sofa - under her port, and every time she over-slept and thus failed to take care - of herself, the deck-washers drowned her out. - </p> - <p> - And the painters, what a good time they had! This ship would be going into - dock for a month in Sydney for repairs; but no matter, painting was going - on all the time somewhere or other. The ladies' dresses were constantly - getting ruined, nevertheless protests and supplications went for nothing. - Sometimes a lady, taking an afternoon nap on deck near a ventilator or - some other thing that didn't need painting, would wake up by and by and - find that the humorous painter had been noiselessly daubing that thing and - had splattered her white gown all over with little greasy yellow spots. - </p> - <p> - The blame for this untimely painting did not lie with the ship's officers, - but with custom. As far back as Noah's time it became law that ships must - be constantly painted and fussed at when at sea; custom grew out of the - law, and at sea custom knows no death; this custom will continue until the - sea goes dry. - </p> - <p> - Sept. 8.—Sunday. We are moving so nearly south that we cross only - about two meridians of longitude a day. This morning we were in longitude - 178 west from Greenwich, and 57 degrees west from San Francisco. To-morrow - we shall be close to the center of the globe—the 180th degree of - west longitude and 180th degree of east longitude. - </p> - <p> - And then we must drop out a day—lose a day out of our lives, a day - never to be found again. We shall all die one day earlier than from the - beginning of time we were foreordained to die. We shall be a day - behindhand all through eternity. We shall always be saying to the other - angels, "Fine day today," and they will be always retorting, "But it isn't - to-day, it's tomorrow." We shall be in a state of confusion all the time - and shall never know what true happiness is.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p074.jpg (21K)" src="images/p074.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Next Day. Sure enough, it has happened. Yesterday it was September 8, - Sunday; to-day, per the bulletin-board at the head of the companionway, it - is September 10, Tuesday. There is something uncanny about it. And - uncomfortable. In fact, nearly unthinkable, and wholly unrealizable, when - one comes to consider it. While we were crossing the 180th meridian it was - Sunday in the stern of the ship where my family were, and Tuesday in the - bow where I was. They were there eating the half of a fresh apple on the - 8th, and I was at the same time eating the other half of it on the 10th—and - I could notice how stale it was, already. The family were the same age - that they were when I had left them five minutes before, but I was a day - older now than I was then. The day they were living in stretched behind - them half way round the globe, across the Pacific Ocean and America and - Europe; the day I was living in stretched in front of me around the other - half to meet it. They were stupendous days for bulk and stretch; - apparently much larger days than we had ever been in before. All previous - days had been but shrunk-up little things by comparison. The difference in - temperature between the two days was very marked, their day being hotter - than mine because it was closer to the equator. - </p> - <p> - Along about the moment that we were crossing the Great Meridian a child - was born in the steerage, and now there is no way to tell which day it was - born on. The nurse thinks it was Sunday, the surgeon thinks it was - Tuesday. The child will never know its own birthday. It will always be - choosing first one and then the other, and will never be able to make up - its mind permanently. This will breed vacillation and uncertainty in its - opinions about religion, and politics, and business, and sweethearts, and - everything, and will undermine its principles, and rot them away, and make - the poor thing characterless, and its success in life impossible. Every - one in the ship says so. And this is not all—in fact, not the worst. - For there is an enormously rich brewer in the ship who said as much as ten - days ago, that if the child was born on his birthday he would give it ten - thousand dollars to start its little life with. His birthday was Monday, - the 9th of September. - </p> - <p> - If the ships all moved in the one direction—westward, I mean—the - world would suffer a prodigious loss—in the matter of valuable time, - through the dumping overboard on the Great Meridian of such multitudes of - days by ships crews and passengers. But fortunately the ships do not all - sail west, half of them sail east. So there is no real loss. These latter - pick up all the discarded days and add them to the world's stock again; - and about as good as new, too; for of course the salt water preserves - them.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch5" id="ch5"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER V. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Noise proves nothing. Often a hen who has merely laid an egg cackles as - if she had laid an asteroid.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - WEDNESDAY, Sept. 11. In this world we often make mistakes of judgment. We - do not as a rule get out of them sound and whole, but sometimes we do. At - dinner yesterday evening-present, a mixture of Scotch, English, American, - Canadian, and Australasian folk—a discussion broke out about the - pronunciation of certain Scottish words. This was private ground, and the - non-Scotch nationalities, with one exception, discreetly kept still. But I - am not discreet, and I took a hand. I didn't know anything about the - subject, but I took a hand just to have something to do. At that moment - the word in dispute was the word three. One Scotchman was claiming that - the peasantry of Scotland pronounced it three, his adversaries claimed - that they didn't—that they pronounced it 'thraw'. The solitary Scot - was having a sultry time of it, so I thought I would enrich him with my - help. In my position I was necessarily quite impartial, and was equally as - well and as ill equipped to fight on the one side as on the other. So I - spoke up and said the peasantry pronounced the word three, not thraw. It - was an error of judgment. There was a moment of astonished and ominous - silence, then weather ensued. The storm rose and spread in a surprising - way, and I was snowed under in a very few minutes. It was a bad defeat for - me—a kind of Waterloo. It promised to remain so, and I wished I had - had better sense than to enter upon such a forlorn enterprise. But just - then I had a saving thought—at least a thought that offered a - chance. While the storm was still raging, I made up a Scotch couplet, and - then spoke up and said: - </p> - <p> - "Very well, don't say any more. I confess defeat. I thought I knew, but I - see my mistake. I was deceived by one of your Scotch poets." - </p> - <p> - "A Scotch poet! O come! Name him." - </p> - <p> - "Robert Burns." - </p> - <p> - It is wonderful the power of that name. These men looked doubtful—but - paralyzed, all the same. They were quite silent for a moment; then one of - them said—with the reverence in his voice which is always present in - a Scotchman's tone when he utters the name. - </p> - <p> - "Does Robbie Burns say—what does he say?" - </p> - <p> - "This is what he says: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - 'There were nae bairns but only three—<br /> Ane at the breast, - twa at the knee.'"<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - It ended the discussion. There was no man there profane enough, disloyal - enough, to say any word against a thing which Robert Burns had settled. I - shall always honor that great name for the salvation it brought me in this - time of my sore need. - </p> - <p> - It is my belief that nearly any invented quotation, played with - confidence, stands a good chance to deceive. There are people who think - that honesty is always the best policy. This is a superstition; there are - times when the appearance of it is worth six of it. - </p> - <p> - We are moving steadily southward-getting further and further down under - the projecting paunch of the globe. Yesterday evening we saw the Big - Dipper and the north star sink below the horizon and disappear from our - world. No, not "we," but they. They saw it—somebody saw it—and - told me about it. But it is no matter, I was not caring for those things, - I am tired of them, any way. I think they are well enough, but one doesn't - want them always hanging around. My interest was all in the Southern - Cross. I had never seen that. I had heard about it all my life, and it was - but natural that I should be burning to see it. No other constellation - makes so much talk. I had nothing against the Big Dipper—and - naturally couldn't have anything against it, since it is a citizen of our - own sky, and the property of the United States—but I did want it to - move out of the way and give this foreigner a chance. Judging by the size - of the talk which the Southern Cross had made, I supposed it would need a - sky all to itself. - </p> - <p> - But that was a mistake. We saw the Cross to-night, and it is not large. - Not large, and not strikingly bright. But it was low down toward the - horizon, and it may improve when it gets up higher in the sky. It is - ingeniously named, for it looks just as a cross would look if it looked - like something else. But that description does not describe; it is too - vague, too general, too indefinite. It does after a fashion suggest a - cross—a cross that is out of repair—or out of drawing; not - correctly shaped. It is long, with a short cross-bar, and the cross-bar is - canted out of the straight line.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p079.jpg (15K)" src="images/p079.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It consists of four large stars and one little one. The little one is out - of line and further damages the shape. It should have been placed at the - intersection of the stem and the cross-bar. If you do not draw an - imaginary line from star to star it does not suggest a cross—nor - anything in particular. - </p> - <p> - One must ignore the little star, and leave it out of the combination—it - confuses everything. If you leave it out, then you can make out of the - four stars a sort of cross—out of true; or a sort of kite—out - of true; or a sort of coffin-out of true. - </p> - <p> - Constellations have always been troublesome things to name. If you give - one of them a fanciful name, it will always refuse to live up to it; it - will always persist in not resembling the thing it has been named for. - Ultimately, to satisfy the public, the fanciful name has to be discarded - for a common-sense one, a manifestly descriptive one. The Great Bear - remained the Great Bear—and unrecognizable as such—for - thousands of years; and people complained about it all the time, and quite - properly; but as soon as it became the property of the United States, - Congress changed it to the Big Dipper, and now every body is satisfied, - and there is no more talk about riots. I would not change the Southern - Cross to the Southern Coffin, I would change it to the Southern Kite; for - up there in the general emptiness is the proper home of a kite, but not - for coffins and crosses and dippers. In a little while, now—I cannot - tell exactly how long it will be—the globe will belong to the - English-speaking race; and of course the skies also. Then the - constellations will be re-organized, and polished up, and re-named—the - most of them "Victoria," I reckon, but this one will sail thereafter as - the Southern Kite, or go out of business. Several towns and things, here - and there, have been named for Her Majesty already.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p080.jpg (11K)" src="images/p080.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In these past few days we are plowing through a mighty Milky Way of - islands. They are so thick on the map that one would hardly expect to find - room between them for a canoe; yet we seldom glimpse one. Once we saw the - dim bulk of a couple of them, far away, spectral and dreamy things; - members of the Horne-Alofa and Fortuna. On the larger one are two rival - native kings—and they have a time together. They are Catholics; so - are their people. The missionaries there are French priests. - </p> - <p> - From the multitudinous islands in these regions the "recruits" for the - Queensland plantations were formerly drawn; are still drawn from them, I - believe. Vessels fitted up like old-time slavers came here and carried off - the natives to serve as laborers in the great Australian province. In the - beginning it was plain, simple man-stealing, as per testimony of the - missionaries. This has been denied, but not disproven. Afterward it was - forbidden by law to "recruit" a native without his consent, and - governmental agents were sent in all recruiting vessels to see that the - law was obeyed—which they did, according to the recruiting people; - and which they sometimes didn't, according to the missionaries. A man - could be lawfully recruited for a three-years term of service; he could - volunteer for another term if he so chose; when his time was up he could - return to his island. And would also have the means to do it; for the - government required the employer to put money in its hands for this - purpose before the recruit was delivered to him. - </p> - <p> - Captain Wawn was a recruiting ship-master during many years. From his - pleasant book one gets the idea that the recruiting business was quite - popular with the islanders, as a rule. And yet that did not make the - business wholly dull and uninteresting; for one finds rather frequent - little breaks in the monotony of it—like this, for instance: - </p> - <p> - "The afternoon of our arrival at Leper Island the schooner was lying - almost becalmed under the lee of the lofty central portion of the island, - about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. The boats were in sight at - some distance. The recruiter-boat had run into a small nook on the rocky - coast, under a high bank, above which stood a solitary hut backed by dense - forest. The government agent and mate in the second boat lay about 400 - yards to the westward. - </p> - <p> - "Suddenly we heard the sound of firing, followed by yells from the natives - on shore, and then we saw the recruiter-boat push out with a seemingly - diminished crew. The mate's boat pulled quickly up, took her in tow, and - presently brought her alongside, all her own crew being more or less hurt. - It seems the natives had called them into the place on pretence of - friendship. A crowd gathered about the stern of the boat, and several - fellows even got into her. All of a sudden our men were attacked with - clubs and tomahawks. The recruiter escaped the first blows aimed at him, - making play with his fists until he had an opportunity to draw his - revolver. 'Tom Sayers,' a Mare man, received a tomahawk blow on the head - which laid the scalp open but did not penetrate his skull, fortunately. - 'Bobby Towns,' another Mare boatman, had both his thumbs cut in warding - off blows, one of them being so nearly severed from the hand that the - doctors had to finish the operation. Lihu, a Lifu boy, the recruiter's - special attendant, was cut and pricked in various places, but nowhere - seriously. Jack, an unlucky Tanna recruit, who had been engaged to act as - boatman, received an arrow through his forearm, the head of which—apiece - of bone seven or eight inches long—was still in the limb, protruding - from both sides, when the boats returned. The recruiter himself would have - got off scot-free had not an arrow pinned one of his fingers to the loom - of the steering-oar just as they were getting off. The fight had been - short but sharp. The enemy lost two men, both shot dead." - </p> - <p> - The truth is, Captain Wawn furnishes such a crowd of instances of fatal - encounters between natives and French and English recruiting-crews (for - the French are in the business for the plantations of New Caledonia), that - one is almost persuaded that recruiting is not thoroughly popular among - the islanders; else why this bristling string of attacks and bloodcurdling - slaughter? The captain lays it all to "Exeter Hall influence." But for the - meddling philanthropists, the native fathers and mothers would be fond of - seeing their children carted into exile and now and then the grave, - instead of weeping about it and trying to kill the kind recruiters.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch6" id="ch6"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER VI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>He was as shy as a newspaper is when referring to its own merits.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Captain Wawn is crystal-clear on one point: He does not approve of - missionaries. They obstruct his business. They make "Recruiting," as he - calls it ("Slave-Catching," as they call it in their frank way) a trouble - when it ought to be just a picnic and a pleasure excursion. The - missionaries have their opinion about the manner in which the Labor - Traffic is conducted, and about the recruiter's evasions of the law of the - Traffic, and about the traffic itself—and it is distinctly - uncomplimentary to the Traffic and to everything connected with it, - including the law for its regulation. Captain Wawn's book is of very - recent date; I have by me a pamphlet of still later date—hot from - the press, in fact—by Rev. Wm. Gray, a missionary; and the book and - the pamphlet taken together make exceedingly interesting reading, to my - mind. - </p> - <p> - Interesting, and easy to understand—except in one detail, which I - will mention presently. It is easy to understand why the Queensland sugar - planter should want the Kanaka recruit: he is cheap. Very cheap, in fact. - These are the figures paid by the planter: L20 to the recruiter for - getting the Kanaka or "catching" him, as the missionary phrase goes; L3 to - the Queensland government for "superintending" the importation; L5 - deposited with the Government for the Kanaka's passage home when his three - years are up, in case he shall live that long; about L25 to the Kanaka - himself for three years' wages and clothing; total payment for the use of - a man three years, L53; or, including diet, L60. Altogether, a hundred - dollars a year. One can understand why the recruiter is fond of the - business; the recruit costs him a few cheap presents (given to the - recruit's relatives, not to the recruit himself), and the recruit is worth - L20 to the recruiter when delivered in Queensland. All this is clear - enough; but the thing that is not clear is, what there is about it all to - persuade the recruit. He is young and brisk; life at home in his beautiful - island is one lazy, long holiday to him; or if he wants to work he can - turn out a couple of bags of copra per week and sell it for four or five - shillings a bag. In Queensland he must get up at dawn and work from eight - to twelve hours a day in the canefields—in a much hotter climate - than he is used to—and get less than four shillings a week for it.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p084.jpg (20K)" src="images/p084.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I cannot understand his willingness to go to Queensland. It is a deep - puzzle to me. Here is the explanation, from the planter's point of view; - at least I gather from the missionary's pamphlet that it is the planter's: - </p> - <p> - "When he comes from his home he is a savage, pure and simple. He feels no - shame at his nakedness and want of adornment. When he returns home he does - so well dressed, sporting a Waterbury watch, collars, cuffs, boots, and - jewelry. He takes with him one or more boxes—["Box" is English for - trunk.]—well filled with clothing, a musical instrument or two, and - perfumery and other articles of luxury he has learned to appreciate." - </p> - <p> - For just one moment we have a seeming flash of comprehension of, the - Kanaka's reason for exiling himself: he goes away to acquire civilization. - Yes, he was naked and not ashamed, now he is clothed and knows how to be - ashamed; he was unenlightened; now he has a Waterbury watch; he was - unrefined, now he has jewelry, and something to make him smell good; he - was a nobody, a provincial, now he has been to far countries and can show - off.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p085.jpg (22K)" src="images/p085.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It all looks plausible—for a moment. Then the missionary takes hold - of this explanation and pulls it to pieces, and dances on it, and damages - it beyond recognition. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Admitting that the foregoing description is the average one, the - average sequel is this: The cuffs and collars, if used at all, are - carried off by youngsters, who fasten them round the leg, just below the - knee, as ornaments. The Waterbury, broken and dirty, finds its way to - the trader, who gives a trifle for it; or the inside is taken out, the - wheels strung on a thread and hung round the neck. Knives, axes, calico, - and handkerchiefs are divided among friends, and there is hardly one of - these apiece. The boxes, the keys often lost on the road home, can be - bought for 2s. 6d. They are to be seen rotting outside in almost any - shore village on Tanna. (I speak of what I have seen.) A returned Kanaka - has been furiously angry with me because I would not buy his trousers, - which he declared were just my fit. He sold them afterwards to one of my - Aniwan teachers for 9d. worth of tobacco—a pair of trousers that - probably cost him 8s. or 10s. in Queensland. A coat or shirt is handy - for cold weather. The white handkerchiefs, the 'senet' (perfumery), the - umbrella, and perhaps the hat, are kept. The boots have to take their - chance, if they do not happen to fit the copra trader. 'Senet' on the - hair, streaks of paint on the face, a dirty white handkerchief round the - neck, strips of turtle shell in the ears, a belt, a sheath and knife, - and an umbrella constitute the rig of returned Kanaka at home the day - after landing." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - A hat, an umbrella, a belt, a neckerchief. Otherwise stark naked. All in a - day the hard-earned "civilization" has melted away to this. And even these - perishable things must presently go. Indeed, there is but a single detail - of his civilization that can be depended on to stay by him: according to - the missionary, he has learned to swear. This is art, and art is long, as - the poet says. - </p> - <p> - In all countries the laws throw light upon the past. The Queensland law - for the regulation of the Labor Traffic is a confession. It is a - confession that the evils charged by the missionaries upon the traffic had - existed in the past, and that they still existed when the law was made. - The missionaries make a further charge: that the law is evaded by the - recruiters, and that the Government Agent sometimes helps them to do it. - Regulation 31 reveals two things: that sometimes a young fool of a recruit - gets his senses back, after being persuaded to sign away his liberty for - three years, and dearly wants to get out of the engagement and stay at - home with his own people; and that threats, intimidation, and force are - used to keep him on board the recruiting-ship, and to hold him to his - contract. Regulation 31 forbids these coercions. The law requires that he - shall be allowed to go free; and another clause of it requires the - recruiter to set him ashore—per boat, because of the prevalence of - sharks. Testimony from Rev. Mr. Gray: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "There are 'wrinkles' for taking the penitent Kanaka. My first - experience of the Traffic was a case of this kind in 1884. A vessel - anchored just out of sight of our station, word was brought to me that - some boys were stolen, and the relatives wished me to go and get them - back. The facts were, as I found, that six boys had recruited, had - rushed into the boat, the Government Agent informed me. They had all - 'signed'; and, said the Government Agent, 'on board they shall remain.' - I was assured that the six boys were of age and willing to go. Yet on - getting ready to leave the ship I found four of the lads ready to come - ashore in the boat! This I forbade. One of them jumped into the water - and persisted in coming ashore in my boat. When appealed to, the - Government Agent suggested that we go and leave him to be picked up by - the ship's boat, a quarter mile distant at the time!" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The law and the missionaries feel for the repentant recruit—and - properly, one may be permitted to think, for he is only a youth and - ignorant and persuadable to his hurt—but sympathy for him is not - kept in stock by the recruiter. Rev. Mr. Gray says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "A captain many years in the traffic explained to me how a penitent - could be taken. 'When a boy jumps overboard we just take a boat and pull - ahead of him, then lie between him and the shore. If he has not tired - himself swimming, and passes the boat, keep on heading him in this way. - The dodge rarely fails. The boy generally tires of swimming, gets into - the boat of his own accord, and goes quietly on board." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Yes, exhaustion is likely to make a boy quiet. If the distressed boy had - been the speaker's son, and the captors savages, the speaker would have - been surprised to see how differently the thing looked from the new point - of view; however, it is not our custom to put ourselves in the other - person's place. Somehow there is something pathetic about that - disappointed young savage's resignation. I must explain, here, that in the - traffic dialect, "boy" does not always mean boy; it means a youth above - sixteen years of age. That is by Queensland law the age of consent, though - it is held that recruiters allow themselves some latitude in guessing at - ages. - </p> - <p> - Captain Wawn of the free spirit chafes under the annoyance of "cast-iron - regulations." They and the missionaries have poisoned his life. He grieves - for the good old days, vanished to come no more. See him weep; hear him - cuss between the lines! - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "For a long time we were allowed to apprehend and detain all deserters - who had signed the agreement on board ship, but the 'cast-iron' - regulations of the Act of 1884 put a stop to that, allowing the Kanaka - to sign the agreement for three years' service, travel about in the ship - in receipt of the regular rations, cadge all he could, and leave when he - thought fit, so long as he did not extend his pleasure trip to - Queensland." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Rev. Mr. Gray calls this same restrictive cast-iron law a "farce." "There - is as much cruelty and injustice done to natives by acts that are legal as - by deeds unlawful. The regulations that exist are unjust and inadequate—unjust - and inadequate they must ever be." He furnishes his reasons for his - position, but they are too long for reproduction here. - </p> - <p> - However, if the most a Kanaka advantages himself by a three-years course - in civilization in Queensland, is a necklace and an umbrella and a showy - imperfection in the art of swearing, it must be that all the profit of the - traffic goes to the white man. This could be twisted into a plausible - argument that the traffic ought to be squarely abolished. - </p> - <p> - However, there is reason for hope that that can be left alone to achieve - itself. It is claimed that the traffic will depopulate its sources of - supply within the next twenty or thirty years. Queensland is a very - healthy place for white people—death-rate 12 in 1,000 of the - population—but the Kanaka death-rate is away above that. The vital - statistics for 1893 place it at 52; for 1894 (Mackay district), 68. The - first six months of the Kanaka's exile are peculiarly perilous for him - because of the rigors of the new climate. The death-rate among the new men - has reached as high as 180 in the 1,000. In the Kanaka's native home his - death-rate is 12 in time of peace, and 15 in time of war. Thus exile to - Queensland—with the opportunity to acquire civilization, an - umbrella, and a pretty poor quality of profanity—is twelve times as - deadly for him as war. Common Christian charity, common humanity, does - seem to require, not only that these people be returned to their homes, - but that war, pestilence, and famine be introduced among them for their - preservation. - </p> - <p> - Concerning these Pacific isles and their peoples an eloquent prophet spoke - long years ago—five and fifty years ago. In fact, he spoke a little - too early. Prophecy is a good line of business, but it is full of risks. - This prophet was the Right Rev. M. Russell, LL.D., D.C.L., of Edinburgh: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Is the tide of civilization to roll only to the foot of the Rocky - Mountains, and is the sun of knowledge to set at last in the waves of - the Pacific? No; the mighty day of four thousand years is drawing to its - close; the sun of humanity has performed its destined course; but long - ere its setting rays are extinguished in the west, its ascending beams - have glittered on the isles of the eastern seas . . . . And now we see - the race of Japhet setting forth to people the isles, and the seeds of - another Europe and a second England sown in the regions of the sun. But - mark the words of the prophecy: 'He shall dwell in the tents of Shem, - and Canaan shall be his servant.' It is not said Canaan shall be his - slave. To the Anglo-Saxon race is given the scepter of the globe, but - there is not given either the lash of the slave-driver or the rack of - the executioner. The East will not be stained with the same atrocities - as the West; the frightful gangrene of an enthralled race is not to mar - the destinies of the family of Japhet in the Oriental world; humanizing, - not destroying, as they advance; uniting with, not enslaving, the - inhabitants with whom they dwell, the British race may," etc., etc. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And he closes his vision with an invocation from Thomson: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Come, bright Improvement! on the car of Time, And rule the spacious - world from clime to clime." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Very well, Bright Improvement has arrived, you see, with her civilization, - and her Waterbury, and her umbrella, and her third-quality profanity, and - her humanizing-not-destroying machinery, and her hundred-and-eighty - death-rate, and everything is going along just as handsome! - </p> - <p> - But the prophet that speaks last has an advantage over the pioneer in the - business. Rev. Mr. Gray says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "What I am concerned about is that we as a Christian nation should wipe - out these races to enrich ourselves." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And he closes his pamphlet with a grim Indictment which is as eloquent in - its flowerless straightforward English as is the hand-painted rhapsody of - the early prophet: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "My indictment of the Queensland-Kanaka Labor Traffic is this - </p> - <p> - "1. It generally demoralizes and always impoverishes the Kanaka, - deprives him of his citizenship, and depopulates the islands fitted to - his home. - </p> - <p> - "2. It is felt to lower the dignity of the white agricultural laborer in - Queensland, and beyond a doubt it lowers his wages there. - </p> - <p> - "3. The whole system is fraught with danger to Australia and the islands - on the score of health. - </p> - <p> - "4. On social and political grounds the continuance of the Queensland - Kanaka Labor Traffic must be a barrier to the true federation of the - Australian colonies. - </p> - <p> - "5. The Regulations under which the Traffic exists in Queensland are - inadequate to prevent abuses, and in the nature of things they must - remain so. - </p> - <p> - "6. The whole system is contrary to the spirit and doctrine of the - Gospel of Jesus Christ. The Gospel requires us to help the weak, but the - Kanaka is fleeced and trodden down. - </p> - <p> - "7. The bed-rock of this Traffic is that the life and liberty of a black - man are of less value than those of a white man. And a Traffic that has - grown out of 'slave-hunting' will certainly remain to the end not unlike - its origin." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p090.jpg (11K)" src="images/p090.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch7" id="ch7"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER VII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Truth is the most valuable thing we have. Let us economize it.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - From Diary:—For a day or two we have been plowing among an invisible - vast wilderness of islands, catching now and then a shadowy glimpse of a - member of it. There does seem to be a prodigious lot of islands this year; - the map of this region is freckled and fly-specked all over with them. - Their number would seem to be uncountable. We are moving among the Fijis - now—224 islands and islets in the group. In front of us, to the - west, the wilderness stretches toward Australia, then curves upward to New - Guinea, and still up and up to Japan; behind us, to the east, the - wilderness stretches sixty degrees across the wastes of the Pacific; south - of us is New Zealand. Somewhere or other among these myriads Samoa is - concealed, and not discoverable on the map. Still, if you wish to go - there, you will have no trouble about finding it if you follow the - directions given by Robert Louis Stevenson to Dr. Conan Doyle and to Mr. - J. M. Barrie. "You go to America, cross the continent to San Francisco, - and then it's the second turning to the left." To get the full flavor of - the joke one must take a glance at the map. - </p> - <p> - Wednesday, September 11.—Yesterday we passed close to an island or - so, and recognized the published Fiji characteristics: a broad belt of - clean white coral sand around the island; back of it a graceful fringe of - leaning palms, with native huts nestling cosily among the shrubbery at - their bases; back of these a stretch of level land clothed in tropic - vegetation; back of that, rugged and picturesque mountains. A detail of - the immediate foreground: a mouldering ship perched high up on a - reef-bench. This completes the composition, and makes the picture - artistically perfect.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p092.jpg (16K)" src="images/p092.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In the afternoon we sighted Suva, the capital of the group, and threaded - our way into the secluded little harbor—a placid basin of brilliant - blue and green water tucked snugly in among the sheltering hills. A few - ships rode at anchor in it—one of them a sailing vessel flying the - American flag; and they said she came from Duluth! There's a journey! - Duluth is several thousand miles from the sea, and yet she is entitled to - the proud name of Mistress of the Commercial Marine of the United States - of America. There is only one free, independent, unsubsidized American - ship sailing the foreign seas, and Duluth owns it. All by itself that ship - is the American fleet. All by itself it causes the American name and power - to be respected in the far regions of the globe. All by itself it - certifies to the world that the most populous civilized nation, in the - earth has a just pride in her stupendous stretch of sea-front, and is - determined to assert and maintain her rightful place as one of the Great - Maritime Powers of the Planet. All by itself it is making foreign eyes - familiar with a Flag which they have not seen before for forty years, - outside of the museum. For what Duluth has done, in building, equipping, - and maintaining at her sole expense the American Foreign Commercial Fleet, - and in thus rescuing the American name from shame and lifting it high for - the homage of the nations, we owe her a debt of gratitude which our hearts - shall confess with quickened beats whenever her name is named henceforth. - Many national toasts will die in the lapse of time, but while the flag - flies and the Republic survives, they who live under their shelter will - still drink this one, standing and uncovered: Health and prosperity to - Thee, O Duluth, American Queen of the Alien Seas! - </p> - <p> - Row-boats began to flock from the shore; their crews were the first - natives we had seen. These men carried no overplus of clothing, and this - was wise, for the weather was hot. Handsome, great dusky men they were, - muscular, clean-limbed, and with faces full of character and intelligence. - It would be hard to find their superiors anywhere among the dark races, I - should think.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p093.jpg (17K)" src="images/p093.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Everybody went ashore to look around, and spy out the land, and have that - luxury of luxuries to sea-voyagers—a land-dinner. And there we saw - more natives: Wrinkled old women, with their flat mammals flung over their - shoulders, or hanging down in front like the cold-weather drip from the - molasses-faucet; plump and smily young girls, blithe and content, easy and - graceful, a pleasure to look at; young matrons, tall, straight, comely, - nobly built, sweeping by with chin up, and a gait incomparable for - unconscious stateliness and dignity; majestic young men—athletes for - build and muscle—clothed in a loose arrangement of dazzling white, - with bronze breast and bronze legs naked, and the head a cannon-swab of - solid hair combed straight out from the skull and dyed a rich brick-red. - Only sixty years ago they were sunk in darkness; now they have the - bicycle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p094.jpg (82K)" src="images/p094.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - We strolled about the streets of the white folks' little town, and around - over the hills by paths and roads among European dwellings and gardens and - plantations, and past clumps of hibiscus that made a body blink, the great - blossoms were so intensely red; and by and by we stopped to ask an elderly - English colonist a question or two, and to sympathize with him concerning - the torrid weather; but he was surprised, and said: - </p> - <p> - "This? This is not hot. You ought to be here in the summer time once." - </p> - <p> - "We supposed that this was summer; it has the ear-marks of it. You could - take it to almost any country and deceive people with it. But if it isn't - summer, what does it lack?" - </p> - <p> - "It lacks half a year. This is mid-winter."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p095.jpg (19K)" src="images/p095.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I had been suffering from colds for several months, and a sudden change of - season, like this, could hardly fail to do me hurt. It brought on another - cold. It is odd, these sudden jumps from season to season. A fortnight ago - we left America in mid-summer, now it is midwinter; about a week hence we - shall arrive in Australia in the spring. - </p> - <p> - After dinner I found in the billiard-room a resident whom I had known - somewhere else in the world, and presently made some new friends and drove - with them out into the country to visit his Excellency the head of the - State, who was occupying his country residence, to escape the rigors of - the winter weather, I suppose, for it was on breezy high ground and much - more comfortable than the lower regions, where the town is, and where the - winter has full swing, and often sets a person's hair afire when he takes - off his hat to bow. There is a noble and beautiful view of ocean and - islands and castellated peaks from the governor's high-placed house, and - its immediate surroundings lie drowsing in that dreamy repose and serenity - which are the charm of life in the Pacific Islands. - </p> - <p> - One of the new friends who went out there with me was a large man, and I - had been admiring his size all the way. I was still admiring it as he - stood by the governor on the veranda, talking; then the Fijian butler - stepped out there to announce tea, and dwarfed him. Maybe he did not quite - dwarf him, but at any rate the contrast was quite striking. Perhaps that - dark giant was a king in a condition of political suspension. I think that - in the talk there on the veranda it was said that in Fiji, as in the - Sandwich Islands, native kings and chiefs are of much grander size and - build than the commoners. This man was clothed in flowing white vestments, - and they were just the thing for him; they comported well with his great - stature and his kingly port and dignity. European clothes would have - degraded him and made him commonplace. I know that, because they do that - with everybody that wears them. - </p> - <p> - It was said that the old-time devotion to chiefs and reverence for their - persons still survive in the native commoner, and in great force. The - educated young gentleman who is chief of the tribe that live in the region - about the capital dresses in the fashion of high-class European gentlemen, - but even his clothes cannot damn him in the reverence of his people. Their - pride in his lofty rank and ancient lineage lives on, in spite of his lost - authority and the evil magic of his tailor. He has no need to defile - himself with work, or trouble his heart with the sordid cares of life; the - tribe will see to it that he shall not want, and that he shall hold up his - head and live like a gentleman. I had a glimpse of him down in the town. - Perhaps he is a descendant of the last king—the king with the - difficult name whose memory is preserved by a notable monument of - cut-stone which one sees in the enclosure in the middle of the town. - Thakombau—I remember, now; that is the name. It is easier to - preserve it on a granite block than in your head. - </p> - <p> - Fiji was ceded to England by this king in 1858. One of the gentlemen - present at the governor's quoted a remark made by the king at the time of - the session—a neat retort, and with a touch of pathos in it, too. - The English Commissioner had offered a crumb of comfort to Thakombau by - saying that the transfer of the kingdom to Great Britain was merely "a - sort of hermit-crab formality, you know." "Yes," said poor Thakombau, "but - with this difference—the crab moves into an unoccupied shell, but - mine isn't." - </p> - <p> - However, as far as I can make out from the books, the King was between the - devil and the deep sea at the time, and hadn't much choice. He owed the - United States a large debt—a debt which he could pay if allowed - time, but time was denied him. He must pay up right away or the warships - would be upon him. To protect his people from this disaster he ceded his - country to Britain, with a clause in the contract providing for the - ultimate payment of the American debt. - </p> - <p> - In old times the Fijians were fierce fighters; they were very religious, - and worshiped idols; the big chiefs were proud and haughty, and they were - men of great style in many ways; all chiefs had several wives, the biggest - chiefs sometimes had as many as fifty; when a chief was dead and ready for - burial, four or five of his wives were strangled and put into the grave - with him. In 1804 twenty-seven British convicts escaped from Australia to - Fiji, and brought guns and ammunition with them. Consider what a power - they were, armed like that, and what an opportunity they had. If they had - been energetic men and sober, and had had brains and known how to use - them, they could have achieved the sovereignty of the archipelago - twenty-seven kings and each with eight or nine islands under his scepter. - But nothing came of this chance. They lived worthless lives of sin and - luxury, and died without honor—in most cases by violence. Only one - of them had any ambition; he was an Irishman named Connor. He tried to - raise a family of fifty children, and scored forty-eight. He died - lamenting his failure. It was a foolish sort of avarice. Many a father - would have been rich enough with forty. - </p> - <p> - It is a fine race, the Fijians, with brains in their heads, and an - inquiring turn of mind. It appears that their savage ancestors had a - doctrine of immortality in their scheme of religion—with - limitations. That is to say, their dead friend would go to a happy - hereafter if he could be accumulated, but not otherwise. They drew the - line; they thought that the missionary's doctrine was too sweeping, too - comprehensive. They called his attention to certain facts. For instance, - many of their friends had been devoured by sharks; the sharks, in their - turn, were caught and eaten by other men; later, these men were captured - in war, and eaten by the enemy. The original persons had entered into the - composition of the sharks; next, they and the sharks had become part of - the flesh and blood and bone of the cannibals. How, then, could the - particles of the original men be searched out from the final conglomerate - and put together again? The inquirers were full of doubts, and considered - that the missionary had not examined the matter with the gravity and - attention which so serious a thing deserved. - </p> - <p> - The missionary taught these exacting savages many valuable things, and got - from them one—a very dainty and poetical idea: Those wild and - ignorant poor children of Nature believed that the flowers, after they - perish, rise on the winds and float away to the fair fields of heaven, and - flourish there forever in immortal beauty!<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch8" id="ch8"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER VIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no - distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - When one glances at the map the members of the stupendous island - wilderness of the Pacific seem to crowd upon each other; but no, there is - no crowding, even in the center of a group; and between groups there are - lonely wide deserts of sea. Not everything is known about the islands, - their peoples and their languages. A startling reminder of this is - furnished by the fact that in Fiji, twenty years ago, were living two - strange and solitary beings who came from an unknown country and spoke an - unknown language. "They were picked up by a passing vessel many hundreds - of miles from any known land, floating in the same tiny canoe in which - they had been blown out to sea. When found they were but skin and bone. No - one could understand what they said, and they have never named their - country; or, if they have, the name does not correspond with that of any - island on any chart. They are now fat and sleek, and as happy as the day - is long. In the ship's log there is an entry of the latitude and longitude - in which they were found, and this is probably all the clue they will ever - have to their lost homes."—[Forbes's "Two Years in Fiji."] - </p> - <p> - What a strange and romantic episode it is; and how one is tortured with - curiosity to know whence those mysterious creatures came, those Men - Without a Country, errant waifs who cannot name their lost home, wandering - Children of Nowhere. - </p> - <p> - Indeed, the Island Wilderness is the very home of romance and dreams and - mystery. The loneliness, the solemnity, the beauty, and the deep repose of - this wilderness have a charm which is all their own for the bruised spirit - of men who have fought and failed in the struggle for life in the great - world; and for men who have been hunted out of the great world for crime; - and for other men who love an easy and indolent existence; and for others - who love a roving free life, and stir and change and adventure; and for - yet others who love an easy and comfortable career of trading and - money-getting, mixed with plenty of loose matrimony by purchase, divorce - without trial or expense, and limitless spreeing thrown in to make life - ideally perfect. - </p> - <p> - We sailed again, refreshed. - </p> - <p> - The most cultivated person in the ship was a young Englishman whose home - was in New Zealand. He was a naturalist. His learning in his specialty was - deep and thorough, his interest in his subject amounted to a passion, he - had an easy gift of speech; and so, when he talked about animals it was a - pleasure to listen to him. And profitable, too, though he was sometimes - difficult to understand because now and then he used scientific - technicalities which were above the reach of some of us. They were pretty - sure to be above my reach, but as he was quite willing to explain them I - always made it a point to get him to do it. I had a fair knowledge of his - subject—layman's knowledge—to begin with, but it was his - teachings which crystalized it into scientific form and clarity—in a - word, gave it value. - </p> - <p> - His special interest was the fauna of Australasia, and his knowledge of - the matter was as exhaustive as it was accurate. I already knew a good - deal about the rabbits in Australasia and their marvelous fecundity, but - in my talks with him I found that my estimate of the great hindrance and - obstruction inflicted by the rabbit pest upon traffic and travel was far - short of the facts. He told me that the first pair of rabbits imported - into Australasia bred so wonderfully that within six months rabbits were - so thick in the land that people had to dig trenches through them to get - from town to town. - </p> - <p> - He told me a great deal about worms, and the kangaroo, and other - coleoptera, and said he knew the history and ways of all such - pachydermata. He said the kangaroo had pockets, and carried its young in - them when it couldn't get apples. And he said that the emu was as big as - an ostrich, and looked like one, and had an amorphous appetite and would - eat bricks. Also, that the dingo was not a dingo at all, but just a wild - dog; and that the only difference between a dingo and a dodo was that - neither of them barked; otherwise they were just the same. He said that - the only game-bird in Australia was the wombat, and the only song-bird the - larrikin, and that both were protected by government. The most beautiful - of the native birds was the bird of Paradise. Next came the two kinds of - lyres; not spelt the same. He said the one kind was dying out, the other - thickening up. He explained that the "Sundowner" was not a bird it was a - man; sundowner was merely the Australian equivalent of our word, tramp. He - is a loafer, a hard drinker, and a sponge. He tramps across the country in - the sheep-shearing season, pretending to look for work; but he always - times himself to arrive at a sheep-run just at sundown, when the day's - labor ends; all he wants is whisky and supper and bed and breakfast; he - gets them and then disappears. The naturalist spoke of the bell bird, the - creature that at short intervals all day rings out its mellow and - exquisite peal from the deeps of the forest. It is the favorite and best - friend of the weary and thirsty sundowner; for he knows that wherever the - bell bird is, there is water; and he goes somewhere else. The naturalist - said that the oddest bird in Australasia was the, Laughing Jackass, and - the biggest the now extinct Great Moa. - </p> - <p> - The Moa stood thirteen feet high, and could step over an ordinary man's - head or kick his hat off; and his head, too, for that matter. He said it - was wingless, but a swift runner. The natives used to ride it. It could - make forty miles an hour, and keep it up for four hundred miles and come - out reasonably fresh. It was still in existence when the railway was - introduced into New Zealand; still in existence, and carrying the mails. - The railroad began with the same schedule it has now: two expresses a - week-time, twenty miles an hour. The company exterminated the moa to get - the mails.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p103.jpg (46K)" src="images/p103.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Speaking of the indigenous coneys and bactrian camels, the naturalist said - that the coniferous and bacteriological output of Australasia was - remarkable for its many and curious departures from the accepted laws - governing these species of tubercles, but that in his opinion Nature's - fondness for dabbling in the erratic was most notably exhibited in that - curious combination of bird, fish, amphibian, burrower, crawler, - quadruped, and Christian called the Ornithorhynchus—grotesquest of - animals, king of the animalculae of the world for versatility of character - and make-up. Said he: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "You can call it anything you want to, and be right. It is a fish, for - it lives in the river half the time; it is a land animal, for it resides - on the land half the time; it is an amphibian, since it likes both and - does not know which it prefers; it is a hybernian, for when times are - dull and nothing much going on it buries itself under the mud at the - bottom of a puddle and hybernates there a couple of weeks at a time; it - is a kind of duck, for it has a duck-bill and four webbed paddles; it is - a fish and quadruped together, for in the water it swims with the - paddles and on shore it paws itself across country with them; it is a - kind of seal, for it has a seal's fur; it is carnivorous, herbivorous, - insectivorous, and vermifuginous, for it eats fish and grass and - butterflies, and in the season digs worms out of the mud and devours - them; it is clearly a bird, for it lays eggs, and hatches them; it is - clearly a mammal, for it nurses its young; and it is manifestly a kind - of Christian, for it keeps the Sabbath when there is anybody around, and - when there isn't, doesn't. It has all the tastes there are except - refined ones, it has all the habits there are except good ones. - </p> - <p> - "It is a survival—a survival of the fittest. Mr. Darwin invented - the theory that goes by that name, but the Ornithorhynchus was the first - to put it to actual experiment and prove that it could be done. Hence it - should have as much of the credit as Mr. Darwin. It was never in the - Ark; you will find no mention of it there; it nobly stayed out and - worked the theory. Of all creatures in the world it was the only one - properly equipped for the test. The Ark was thirteen months afloat, and - all the globe submerged; no land visible above the flood, no vegetation, - no food for a mammal to eat, nor water for a mammal to drink; for all - mammal food was destroyed, and when the pure floods from heaven and the - salt oceans of the earth mingled their waters and rose above the - mountain tops, the result was a drink which no bird or beast of ordinary - construction could use and live. But this combination was nuts for the - Ornithorhynchus, if I may use a term like that without offense. Its - river home had always been salted by the flood-tides of the sea. On the - face of the Noachian deluge innumerable forest trees were floating. Upon - these the Ornithorhynchus voyaged in peace; voyaged from clime to clime, - from hemisphere to hemisphere, in contentment and comfort, in virile - interest in the constant change of scene, in humble thankfulness for its - privileges, in ever-increasing enthusiasm in the development of the - great theory upon whose validity it had staked its life, its fortunes, - and its sacred honor, if I may use such expressions without impropriety - in connection with an episode of this nature. - </p> - <p> - "It lived the tranquil and luxurious life of a creature of independent - means. Of things actually necessary to its existence and its happiness - not a detail was wanting. When it wished to walk, it scrambled along the - tree-trunk; it mused in the shade of the leaves by day, it slept in - their shelter by night; when it wanted the refreshment of a swim, it had - it; it ate leaves when it wanted a vegetable diet, it dug under the bark - for worms and grubs; when it wanted fish it caught them, when it wanted - eggs it laid them. If the grubs gave out in one tree it swam to another; - and as for fish, the very opulence of the supply was an embarrassment. - And finally, when it was thirsty it smacked its chops in gratitude over - a blend that would have slain a crocodile. - </p> - <p> - "When at last, after thirteen months of travel and research in all the - Zones it went aground on a mountain-summit, it strode ashore, saying in - its heart, 'Let them that come after me invent theories and dream dreams - about the Survival of the Fittest if they like, but I am the first that - has done it! - </p> - <p> - "This wonderful creature dates back like the kangaroo and many other - Australian hydrocephalous invertebrates, to an age long anterior to the - advent of man upon the earth; they date back, indeed, to a time when a - causeway hundreds of miles wide, and thousands of miles long, joined - Australia to Africa, and the animals of the two countries were alike, - and all belonged to that remote geological epoch known to science as the - Old Red Grindstone Post-Pleosaurian. Later the causeway sank under the - sea; subterranean convulsions lifted the African continent a thousand - feet higher than it was before, but Australia kept her old level. In - Africa's new climate the animals necessarily began to develop and shade - off into new forms and families and species, but the animals of - Australia as necessarily remained stationary, and have so remained until - this day. In the course of some millions of years the African - Ornithorhynchus developed and developed and developed, and sluffed off - detail after detail of its make-up until at last the creature became - wholly disintegrated and scattered. Whenever you see a bird or a beast - or a seal or an otter in Africa you know that he is merely a sorry - surviving fragment of that sublime original of whom I have been speaking—that - creature which was everything in general and nothing in particular—the - opulently endowed 'e pluribus unum' of the animal world. - </p> - <p> - "Such is the history of the most hoary, the most ancient, the most - venerable creature that exists in the earth today—Ornithorhynchus - Platypus Extraordinariensis—whom God preserve!" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p105.jpg (38K)" src="images/p105.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - When he was strongly moved he could rise and soar like that with ease. And - not only in the prose form, but in the poetical as well. He had written - many pieces of poetry in his time, and these manuscripts he lent around - among the passengers, and was willing to let them be copied. It seemed to - me that the least technical one in the series, and the one which reached - the loftiest note, perhaps, was his— - </p> - <h3> - INVOCATION. - </h3> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <br /> "Come forth from thy oozy couch,<br /> O Ornithorhynchus dear!<br /> - And greet with a cordial claw<br /> The stranger that longs to hear<br /> - <br /> "From thy own own lips the tale<br /> Of thy origin all unknown:<br /> - Thy misplaced bone where flesh should be<br /> And flesh where should - be bone;<br /> <br /> "And fishy fin where should be paw,<br /> And - beaver-trowel tail,<br /> And snout of beast equip'd with teeth<br /> - Where gills ought to prevail.<br /> <br /> "Come, Kangaroo, the good and - true<br /> Foreshortened as to legs,<br /> And body tapered like a - churn,<br /> And sack marsupial, i' fegs,<br /> <br /> "And tells us why - you linger here,<br /> Thou relic of a vanished time,<br /> When all - your friends as fossils sleep,<br /> Immortalized in lime!"<br /> <br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - Perhaps no poet is a conscious plagiarist; but there seems to be warrant - for suspecting that there is no poet who is not at one time or another an - unconscious one. The above verses are indeed beautiful, and, in a way, - touching; but there is a haunting something about them which unavoidably - suggests the Sweet Singer of Michigan. It can hardly be doubted that the - author had read the works of that poet and been impressed by them. It is - not apparent that he has borrowed from them any word or yet any phrase, - but the style and swing and mastery and melody of the Sweet Singer all are - there. Compare this Invocation with "Frank Dutton"—particularly - stanzas first and seventeenth—and I think the reader will feel - convinced that he who wrote the one had read the other: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - I.<br /> <br /> "Frank Dutton was as fine a lad<br /> As ever you wish to - see,<br /> And he was drowned in Pine Island Lake<br /> On earth no more - will he be,<br /> His age was near fifteen years,<br /> And he was a - motherless boy,<br /> He was living with his grandmother<br /> When he - was drowned, poor boy."<br /> <br /> <br /> XVII.<br /> <br /> "He was - drowned on Tuesday afternoon,<br /> On Sunday he was found,<br /> And - the tidings of that drowned boy<br /> Was heard for miles around.<br /> - His form was laid by his mother's side,<br /> Beneath the cold, cold - ground,<br /> His friends for him will drop a tear<br /> When they view - his little mound."<br /> <br /> <i>The Sentimental Song Book.<br /> By - Mrs. Julia Moore, p. 36.</i> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <h2> - <a name="ch9" id="ch9"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER IX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It is your human environment that makes climate.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Sept. 15—Night. Close to Australia now. Sydney 50 miles distant. - </p> - <p> - That note recalls an experience. The passengers were sent for, to come up - in the bow and see a fine sight. It was very dark. One could not follow - with the eye the surface of the sea more than fifty yards in any direction - it dimmed away and became lost to sight at about that distance from us. - But if you patiently gazed into the darkness a little while, there was a - sure reward for you. Presently, a quarter of a mile away you would see a - blinding splash or explosion of light on the water—a flash so sudden - and so astonishingly brilliant that it would make you catch your breath; - then that blotch of light would instantly extend itself and take the - corkscrew shape and imposing length of the fabled sea-serpent, with every - curve of its body and the "break" spreading away from its head, and the - wake following behind its tail clothed in a fierce splendor of living - fire. And my, but it was coming at a lightning gait! Almost before you - could think, this monster of light, fifty feet long, would go flaming and - storming by, and suddenly disappear. And out in the distance whence he - came you would see another flash; and another and another and another, and - see them turn into sea-serpents on the instant; and once sixteen flashed - up at the same time and came tearing towards us, a swarm of wiggling - curves, a moving conflagration, a vision of bewildering beauty, a - spectacle of fire and energy whose equal the most of those people will not - see again until after they are dead. - </p> - <p> - It was porpoises—porpoises aglow with phosphorescent light. They - presently collected in a wild and magnificent jumble under the bows, and - there they played for an hour, leaping and frollicking and carrying on, - turning summersaults in front of the stem or across it and never getting - hit, never making a miscalculation, though the stem missed them only about - an inch, as a rule. They were porpoises of the ordinary length—eight - or ten feet—but every twist of their bodies sent a long procession - of united and glowing curves astern. That fiery jumble was an enchanting - thing to look at, and we stayed out the performance; one cannot have such - a show as that twice in a lifetime. The porpoise is the kitten of the sea; - he never has a serious thought, he cares for nothing but fun and play. But - I think I never saw him at his winsomest until that night. It was near a - center of civilization, and he could have been drinking. - </p> - <p> - By and by, when we had approached to somewhere within thirty miles of - Sydney Heads the great electric light that is posted on one of those lofty - ramparts began to show, and in time the little spark grew to a great sun - and pierced the firmament of darkness with a far-reaching sword of light. - </p> - <p> - Sydney Harbor is shut in behind a precipice that extends some miles like a - wall, and exhibits no break to the ignorant stranger. It has a break in - the middle, but it makes so little show that even Captain Cook sailed by - it without seeing it. Near by that break is a false break which resembles - it, and which used to make trouble for the mariner at night, in the early - days before the place was lighted. It caused the memorable disaster to the - Duncan Dunbar, one of the most pathetic tragedies in the history of that - pitiless ruffian, the sea. The ship was a sailing vessel; a fine and - favorite passenger packet, commanded by a popular captain of high - reputation. She was due from England, and Sydney was waiting, and counting - the hours; counting the hours, and making ready to give her a - heart-stirring welcome; for she was bringing back a great company of - mothers and daughters, the long-missed light and bloom of life of Sydney - homes; daughters that had been years absent at school, and mothers that - had been with them all that time watching over them. Of all the world only - India and Australasia have by custom freighted ships and fleets with their - hearts, and know the tremendous meaning of that phrase; only they know - what the waiting is like when this freightage is entrusted to the fickle - winds, not steam, and what the joy is like when the ship that is returning - this treasure comes safe to port and the long dread is over. - </p> - <p> - On board the Duncan Dunbar, flying toward Sydney Heads in the waning - afternoon, the happy home-comers made busy preparation, for it was not - doubted that they would be in the arms of their friends before the day was - done; they put away their sea-going clothes and put on clothes meeter for - the meeting, their richest and their loveliest, these poor brides of the - grave. But the wind lost force, or there was a miscalculation, and before - the Heads were sighted the darkness came on. It was said that ordinarily - the captain would have made a safe offing and waited for the morning; but - this was no ordinary occasion; all about him were appealing faces, faces - pathetic with disappointment. So his sympathy moved him to try the - dangerous passage in the dark. He had entered the Heads seventeen times, - and believed he knew the ground. So he steered straight for the false - opening, mistaking it for the true one. He did not find out that he was - wrong until it was too late. There was no saving the ship. The great seas - swept her in and crushed her to splinters and rubbish upon the rock tushes - at the base of the precipice. Not one of all that fair and gracious - company was ever seen again alive. The tale is told to every stranger that - passes the spot, and it will continue to be told to all that come, for - generations; but it will never grow old, custom cannot stale it, the - heart-break that is in it can never perish out of it. - </p> - <p> - There were two hundred persons in the ship, and but one survived the - disaster. He was a sailor. A huge sea flung him up the face of the - precipice and stretched him on a narrow shelf of rock midway between the - top and the bottom, and there he lay all night. At any other time he would - have lain there for the rest of his life, without chance of discovery; but - the next morning the ghastly news swept through Sydney that the Duncan - Dunbar had gone down in sight of home, and straightway the walls of the - Heads were black with mourners; and one of these, stretching himself out - over the precipice to spy out what might be seen below, discovered this - miraculously preserved relic of the wreck. Ropes were brought and the - nearly impossible feat of rescuing the man was accomplished. He was a - person with a practical turn of mind, and he hired a hall in Sydney and - exhibited himself at sixpence a head till he exhausted the output of the - gold fields for that year. - </p> - <p> - We entered and cast anchor, and in the morning went oh-ing and ah-ing in - admiration up through the crooks and turns of the spacious and beautiful - harbor—a harbor which is the darling of Sydney and the wonder of the - world. It is not surprising that the people are proud of it, nor that they - put their enthusiasm into eloquent words. A returning citizen asked me - what I thought of it, and I testified with a cordiality which I judged - would be up to the market rate. I said it was beautiful—superbly - beautiful. Then by a natural impulse I gave God the praise. The citizen - did not seem altogether satisfied. He said:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p113.jpg (13K)" src="images/p113.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "It is beautiful, of course it's beautiful—the Harbor; but that - isn't all of it, it's only half of it; Sydney's the other half, and it - takes both of them together to ring the supremacy-bell. God made the - Harbor, and that's all right; but Satan made Sydney." - </p> - <p> - Of course I made an apology; and asked him to convey it to his friend. He - was right about Sydney being half of it. It would be beautiful without - Sydney, but not above half as beautiful as it is now, with Sydney added. - It is shaped somewhat like an oak-leaf—a roomy sheet of lovely blue - water, with narrow off-shoots of water running up into the country on both - sides between long fingers of land, high wooden ridges with sides sloped - like graves. Handsome villas are perched here and there on these ridges, - snuggling amongst the foliage, and one catches alluring glimpses of them - as the ship swims by toward the city. The city clothes a cluster of hills - and a ruffle of neighboring ridges with its undulating masses of masonry, - and out of these masses spring towers and spires and other architectural - dignities and grandeurs that break the flowing lines and give - picturesqueness to the general effect. - </p> - <p> - The narrow inlets which I have mentioned go wandering out into the land - everywhere and hiding themselves in it, and pleasure-launches are always - exploring them with picnic parties on board. It is said by trustworthy - people that if you explore them all you will find that you have covered - 700 miles of water passage. But there are liars everywhere this year, and - they will double that when their works are in good going order. October - was close at hand, spring was come. It was really spring—everybody - said so; but you could have sold it for summer in Canada, and nobody would - have suspected. It was the very weather that makes our home summers the - perfection of climatic luxury; I mean, when you are out in the wood or by - the sea. But these people said it was cool, now—a person ought to - see Sydney in the summer time if he wanted to know what warm weather is; - and he ought to go north ten or fifteen hundred miles if he wanted to know - what hot weather is. They said that away up there toward the equator the - hens laid fried eggs. Sydney is the place to go to get information about - other people's climates. It seems to me that the occupation of Unbiased - Traveler Seeking Information is the pleasantest and most irresponsible - trade there is. The traveler can always find out anything he wants to, - merely by asking. He can get at all the facts, and more. Everybody helps - him, nobody hinders him. Anybody who has an old fact in stock that is no - longer negotiable in the domestic market will let him have it at his own - price. An accumulation of such goods is easily and quickly made. They cost - almost nothing and they bring par in the foreign market. Travelers who - come to America always freight up with the same old nursery tales that - their predecessors selected, and they carry them back and always work them - off without any trouble in the home market. - </p> - <p> - If the climates of the world were determined by parallels of latitude, - then we could know a place's climate by its position on the map; and so we - should know that the climate of Sydney was the counterpart of the climate - of Columbia, S. C., and of Little Rock, Arkansas, since Sydney is about - the same distance south of the equator that those other towns are north of - it—thirty-four degrees. But no, climate disregards the parallels of - latitude. In Arkansas they have a winter; in Sydney they have the name of - it, but not the thing itself. I have seen the ice in the Mississippi - floating past the mouth of the Arkansas river; and at Memphis, but a - little way above, the Mississippi has been frozen over, from bank to bank. - But they have never had a cold spell in Sydney which brought the mercury - down to freezing point. Once in a mid-winter day there, in the month of - July, the mercury went down to 36 deg., and that remains the memorable - "cold day" in the history of the town. No doubt Little Rock has seen it - below zero. Once, in Sydney, in mid-summer, about New Year's Day, the - mercury went up to 106 deg. in the shade, and that is Sydney's memorable - hot day. That would about tally with Little Rock's hottest day also, I - imagine. My Sydney figures are taken from a government report, and are - trustworthy. In the matter of summer weather Arkansas has no advantage - over Sydney, perhaps, but when it comes to winter weather, that is another - affair. You could cut up an Arkansas winter into a hundred Sydney winters - and have enough left for Arkansas and the poor. - </p> - <p> - The whole narrow, hilly belt of the Pacific side of New South Wales has - the climate of its capital—a mean winter temperature of 54 deg. and - a mean summer one of 71 deg. It is a climate which cannot be improved upon - for healthfulness. But the experts say that 90 deg. in New South Wales is - harder to bear than 112 deg. in the neighboring colony of Victoria, - because the atmosphere of the former is humid, and of the latter dry. The - mean temperature of the southernmost point of New South Wales is the same - as that of Nice—60 deg.—yet Nice is further from the equator - by 460 miles than is the former. - </p> - <p> - But Nature is always stingy of perfect climates; stingier in the case of - Australia than usual. Apparently this vast continent has a really good - climate nowhere but around the edges. - </p> - <p> - If we look at a map of the world we are surprised to see how big Australia - is. It is about two-thirds as large as the United States was before we - added Alaska.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p116.jpg (15K)" src="images/p116.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - But where as one finds a sufficiently good climate and fertile land almost - everywhere in the United States, it seems settled that inside of the - Australian border-belt one finds many deserts and in spots a climate which - nothing can stand except a few of the hardier kinds of rocks. In effect, - Australia is as yet unoccupied. If you take a map of the United States and - leave the Atlantic sea-board States in their places; also the fringe of - Southern States from Florida west to the Mouth of the Mississippi; also a - narrow, inhabited streak up the Mississippi half-way to its head waters; - also a narrow, inhabited border along the Pacific coast: then take a - brushful of paint and obliterate the whole remaining mighty stretch of - country that lies between the Atlantic States and the Pacific-coast strip, - your map will look like the latest map of Australia. - </p> - <p> - This stupendous blank is hot, not to say torrid; a part of it is fertile, - the rest is desert; it is not liberally watered; it has no towns. One has - only to cross the mountains of New South Wales and descend into the - westward-lying regions to find that he has left the choice climate behind - him, and found a new one of a quite different character. In fact, he would - not know by the thermometer that he was not in the blistering Plains of - India. Captain Sturt, the great explorer, gives us a sample of the heat. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The wind, which had been blowing all the morning from the N.E., - increased to a heavy gale, and I shall never forget its withering - effect. I sought shelter behind a large gum-tree, but the blasts of heat - were so terrific that I wondered the very grass did not take fire. This - really was nothing ideal: everything both animate and inanimate gave way - before it; the horses stood with their backs to the wind and their noses - to the ground, without the muscular strength to raise their heads; the - birds were mute, and the leaves of the trees under which we were sitting - fell like a snow shower around us. At noon I took a thermometer graded - to 127 deg., out of my box, and observed that the mercury was up to 125. - Thinking that it had been unduly influenced, I put it in the fork of a - tree close to me, sheltered alike from the wind and the sun. I went to - examine it about an hour afterwards, when I found the mercury had risen - to the-top of the instrument and had burst the bulb, a circumstance that - I believe no traveler has ever before had to record. I cannot find - language to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the intense and - oppressive nature of the heat that prevailed." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That hot wind sweeps over Sydney sometimes, and brings with it what is - called a "dust-storm." It is said that most Australian towns are - acquainted with the dust-storm. I think I know what it is like, for the - following description by Mr. Gape tallies very well with the alkali - duststorm of Nevada, if you leave out the "shovel" part. Still the shovel - part is a pretty important part, and seems to indicate that my Nevada - storm is but a poor thing, after all. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "As we proceeded the altitude became less, and the heat proportionately - greater until we reached Dubbo, which is only 600 feet above sea-level. - It is a pretty town, built on an extensive plain . . . . After the - effects of a shower of rain have passed away the surface of the ground - crumbles into a thick layer of dust, and occasionally, when the wind is - in a particular quarter, it is lifted bodily from the ground in one long - opaque cloud. In the midst of such a storm nothing can be seen a few - yards ahead, and the unlucky person who happens to be out at the time is - compelled to seek the nearest retreat at hand. When the thrifty - housewife sees in the distance the dark column advancing in a steady - whirl towards her house, she closes the doors and windows with all - expedition. A drawing-room, the window of which has been carelessly left - open during a dust-storm, is indeed an extraordinary sight. A lady who - has resided in Dubbo for some years says that the dust lies so thick on - the carpet that it is necessary to use a shovel to remove it." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And probably a wagon. I was mistaken; I have not seen a proper duststorm. - To my mind the exterior aspects and character of Australia are fascinating - things to look at and think about, they are so strange, so weird, so new, - so uncommonplace, such a startling and interesting contrast to the other - sections of the planet, the sections that are known to us all, familiar to - us all. In the matter of particulars—a detail here, a detail there—we - have had the choice climate of New South Wales' seacoast; we have had the - Australian heat as furnished by Captain Sturt; we have had the wonderful - dust-storm; and we have considered the phenomenon of an almost empty hot - wilderness half as big as the United States, with a narrow belt of - civilization, population, and good climate around it.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p118.jpg (19K)" src="images/p118.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch10" id="ch10"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER X. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Everything human is pathetic. The secret source of Humor itself is not - joy but sorrow. There is no humor in heaven.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Captain Cook found Australia in 1770, and eighteen years later the British - Government began to transport convicts to it. Altogether, New South Wales - received 83,000 in 53 years. The convicts wore heavy chains; they were - ill-fed and badly treated by the officers set over them; they were heavily - punished for even slight infractions of the rules; "the cruelest - discipline ever known" is one historian's description of their life.—[The - Story of Australasia. J. S. Laurie.] - </p> - <p> - English law was hard-hearted in those days. For trifling offenses which in - our day would be punished by a small fine or a few days' confinement, men, - women, and boys were sent to this other end of the earth to serve terms of - seven and fourteen years; and for serious crimes they were transported for - life. Children were sent to the penal colonies for seven years for - stealing a rabbit! - </p> - <p> - When I was in London twenty-three years ago there was a new penalty in - force for diminishing garroting and wife-beating—25 lashes on the - bare back with the cat-o'-nine-tails. It was said that this terrible - punishment was able to bring the stubbornest ruffians to terms; and that - no man had been found with grit enough to keep his emotions to himself - beyond the ninth blow; as a rule the man shrieked earlier. That penalty - had a great and wholesome effect upon the garroters and wife-beaters; but - humane modern London could not endure it; it got its law rescinded. Many a - bruised and battered English wife has since had occasion to deplore that - cruel achievement of sentimental "humanity." - </p> - <p> - Twenty-five lashes! In Australia and Tasmania they gave a convict fifty - for almost any little offense; and sometimes a brutal officer would add - fifty, and then another fifty, and so on, as long as the sufferer could - endure the torture and live. In Tasmania I read the entry, in an old - manuscript official record, of a case where a convict was given three - hundred lashes—for stealing some silver spoons. And men got more - than that, sometimes. Who handled the cat? Often it was another convict; - sometimes it was the culprit's dearest comrade; and he had to lay on with - all his might; otherwise he would get a flogging himself for his mercy—for - he was under watch—and yet not do his friend any good: the friend - would be attended to by another hand and suffer no lack in the matter of - full punishment. - </p> - <p> - The convict life in Tasmania was so unendurable, and suicide so difficult - to accomplish that once or twice despairing men got together and drew - straws to determine which of them should kill another of the group—this - murder to secure death to the perpetrator and to the witnesses of it by - the hand of the hangman! - </p> - <p> - The incidents quoted above are mere hints, mere suggestions of what - convict life was like—they are but a couple of details tossed into - view out of a shoreless sea of such; or, to change the figure, they are - but a pair of flaming steeples photographed from a point which hides from - sight the burning city which stretches away from their bases on every - hand. - </p> - <p> - Some of the convicts—indeed, a good many of them—were very bad - people, even for that day; but the most of them were probably not - noticeably worse than the average of the people they left behind them at - home. We must believe this; we cannot avoid it. We are obliged to believe - that a nation that could look on, unmoved, and see starving or freezing - women hanged for stealing twenty-six cents' worth of bacon or rags, and - boys snatched from their mothers, and men from their families, and sent to - the other side of the world for long terms of years for similar trifling - offenses, was a nation to whom the term "civilized" could not in any large - way be applied. And we must also believe that a nation that knew, during - more than forty years, what was happening to those exiles and was still - content with it, was not advancing in any showy way toward a higher grade - of civilization. - </p> - <p> - If we look into the characters and conduct of the officers and gentlemen - who had charge of the convicts and attended to their backs and stomachs, - we must grant again that as between the convict and his masters, and - between both and the nation at home, there was a quite noticeable monotony - of sameness. - </p> - <p> - Four years had gone by, and many convicts had come. Respectable settlers - were beginning to arrive. These two classes of colonists had to be - protected, in case of trouble among themselves or with the natives. It is - proper to mention the natives, though they could hardly count they were so - scarce. At a time when they had not as yet begun to be much disturbed—not - as yet being in the way—it was estimated that in New South Wales - there was but one native to 45,000 acres of territory. - </p> - <p> - People had to be protected. Officers of the regular army did not want this - service—away off there where neither honor nor distinction was to be - gained. So England recruited and officered a kind of militia force of - 1,000 uniformed civilians called the "New South Wales Corps" and shipped - it. - </p> - <p> - This was the worst blow of all. The colony fairly staggered under it. The - Corps was an object-lesson of the moral condition of England outside of - the jails. The colonists trembled. It was feared that next there would be - an importation of the nobility. - </p> - <p> - In those early days the colony was non-supporting. All the necessaries of - life—food, clothing, and all—were sent out from England, and - kept in great government store-houses, and given to the convicts and sold - to the settlers—sold at a trifling advance upon cost. The Corps saw - its opportunity. Its officers went into commerce, and in a most lawless - way. They went to importing rum, and also to manufacturing it in private - stills, in defiance of the government's commands and protests. They - leagued themselves together and ruled the market; they boycotted the - government and the other dealers; they established a close monopoly and - kept it strictly in their own hands. When a vessel arrived with spirits, - they allowed nobody to buy but themselves, and they forced the owner to - sell to them at a price named by themselves—and it was always low - enough. They bought rum at an average of two dollars a gallon and sold it - at an average of ten. They made rum the currency of the country—for - there was little or no money—and they maintained their devastating - hold and kept the colony under their heel for eighteen or twenty years - before they were finally conquered and routed by the government. - </p> - <p> - Meantime, they had spread intemperance everywhere. And they had squeezed - farm after farm out of the settlers hands for rum, and thus had - bountifully enriched themselves. When a farmer was caught in the last - agonies of thirst they took advantage of him and sweated him for a drink. - In one instance they sold a man a gallon of rum worth two dollars for a - piece of property which was sold some years later for $100,000. When the - colony was about eighteen or twenty years old it was discovered that the - land was specially fitted for the wool-culture. Prosperity followed, - commerce with the world began, by and by rich mines of the noble metals - were opened, immigrants flowed in, capital likewise. The result is the - great and wealthy and enlightened commonwealth of New South Wales. - </p> - <p> - It is a country that is rich in mines, wool ranches, trams, railways, - steamship lines, schools, newspapers, botanical gardens, art galleries, - libraries, museums, hospitals, learned societies; it is the hospitable - home of every species of culture and of every species of material - enterprise, and there is a, church at every man's door, and a race-track - over the way.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p123.jpg (23K)" src="images/p123.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch11" id="ch11"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that - is in it—and stop there; lest we be like the cat that sits down on a - hot stove-lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove-lid again—and - that is well; but also she will never sit down on a cold one any more.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - All English-speaking colonies are made up of lavishly hospitable people, - and New South Wales and its capital are like the rest in this. The - English-speaking colony of the United States of America is always called - lavishly hospitable by the English traveler. As to the other - English-speaking colonies throughout the world from Canada all around, I - know by experience that the description fits them. I will not go more - particularly into this matter, for I find that when writers try to - distribute their gratitude here and there and yonder by detail they run - across difficulties and do some ungraceful stumbling. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Gape ("New South Wales and Victoria in 1885 "), tried to distribute - his gratitude, and was not lucky: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The inhabitants of Sydney are renowned for their hospitality. The - treatment which we experienced at the hands of this generous-hearted - people will help more than anything else to make us recollect with - pleasure our stay amongst them. In the character of hosts and hostesses - they excel. The 'new chum' needs only the acquaintanceship of one of - their number, and he becomes at once the happy recipient of numerous - complimentary invitations and thoughtful kindnesses. Of the towns it has - been our good fortune to visit, none have portrayed home so faithfully - as Sydney." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Nobody could say it finer than that. If he had put in his cork then, and - stayed away from Dubbo——but no; heedless man, he pulled it - again. Pulled it when he was away along in his book, and his memory of - what he had said about Sydney had grown dim:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p125.jpg (7K)" src="images/p125.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "We cannot quit the promising town of Dubbo without testifying, in warm - praise, to the kind-hearted and hospitable usages of its inhabitants. - Sydney, though well deserving the character it bears of its kindly - treatment of strangers, possesses a little formality and reserve. In - Dubbo, on the contrary, though the same congenial manners prevail, there - is a pleasing degree of respectful familiarity which gives the town a - homely comfort not often met with elsewhere. In laying on one side our - pen we feel contented in having been able, though so late in this work, - to bestow a panegyric, however unpretentious, on a town which, though - possessing no picturesque natural surroundings, nor interesting - architectural productions, has yet a body of citizens whose hearts - cannot but obtain for their town a reputation for benevolence and - kind-heartedness." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - I wonder what soured him on Sydney. It seems strange that a pleasing - degree of three or four fingers of respectful familiarity should fill a - man up and give him the panegyrics so bad. For he has them, the worst way—any - one can see that. A man who is perfectly at himself does not throw cold - detraction at people's architectural productions and picturesque - surroundings, and let on that what he prefers is a Dubbonese dust-storm - and a pleasing degree of respectful familiarity. No, these are old, old - symptoms; and when they appear we know that the man has got the - panegyrics. - </p> - <p> - Sydney has a population of 400,000. When a stranger from America steps - ashore there, the first thing that strikes him is that the place is eight - or nine times as large as he was expecting it to be; and the next thing - that strikes him is that it is an English city with American trimmings. - Later on, in Melbourne, he will find the American trimmings still more in - evidence; there, even the architecture will often suggest America; a - photograph of its stateliest business street might be passed upon him for - a picture of the finest street in a large American city. I was told that - the most of the fine residences were the city residences of squatters. The - name seemed out of focus somehow. When the explanation came, it offered a - new instance of the curious changes which words, as well as animals, - undergo through change of habitat and climate. With us, when you speak of - a squatter you are always supposed to be speaking of a poor man, but in - Australia when you speak of a squatter you are supposed to be speaking of - a millionaire; in America the word indicates the possessor of a few acres - and a doubtful title, in Australia it indicates a man whose landfront is - as long as a railroad, and whose title has been perfected in one way or - another; in America the word indicates a man who owns a dozen head of live - stock, in Australia a man who owns anywhere from fifty thousand up to half - a million head; in America the word indicates a man who is obscure and not - important, in Australia a man who is prominent and of the first - importance; in America you take off your hat to no squatter, in Australia - you do; in America if your uncle is a squatter you keep it dark, in - Australia you advertise it; in America if your friend is a squatter - nothing comes of it, but with a squatter for your friend in Australia you - may sup with kings if there are any around.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p127.jpg (27K)" src="images/p127.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In Australia it takes about two acres and a half of pastureland (some - people say twice as many), to support a sheep; and when the squatter has - half a million sheep his private domain is about as large as Rhode Island, - to speak in general terms. His annual wool crop may be worth a quarter or - a half million dollars. - </p> - <p> - He will live in a palace in Melbourne or Sydney or some other of the large - cities, and make occasional trips to his sheep-kingdom several hundred - miles away in the great plains to look after his battalions of riders and - shepherds and other hands. He has a commodious dwelling out there, and if - he approve of you he will invite you to spend a week in it, and will make - you at home and comfortable, and let you see the great industry in all its - details, and feed you and slake you and smoke you with the best that money - can buy. - </p> - <p> - On at least one of these vast estates there is a considerable town, with - all the various businesses and occupations that go to make an important - town; and the town and the land it stands upon are the property of the - squatters. I have seen that town, and it is not unlikely that there are - other squatter-owned towns in Australia. - </p> - <p> - Australia supplies the world not only with fine wool, but with mutton - also. The modern invention of cold storage and its application in ships - has created this great trade. In Sydney I visited a huge establishment - where they kill and clean and solidly freeze a thousand sheep a day, for - shipment to England. - </p> - <p> - The Australians did not seem to me to differ noticeably from Americans, - either in dress, carriage, ways, pronunciation, inflections, or general - appearance. There were fleeting and subtle suggestions of their English - origin, but these were not pronounced enough, as a rule, to catch one's - attention. The people have easy and cordial manners from the beginning—from - the moment that the introduction is completed. This is American. To put it - in another way, it is English friendliness with the English shyness and - self-consciousness left out. - </p> - <p> - Now and then—but this is rare—one hears such words as piper - for paper, lydy for lady, and tyble for table fall from lips whence one - would not expect such pronunciations to come. There is a superstition - prevalent in Sydney that this pronunciation is an Australianism, but - people who have been "home"—as the native reverently and lovingly - calls England—know better. It is "costermonger." All over - Australasia this pronunciation is nearly as common among servants as it is - in London among the uneducated and the partially educated of all sorts and - conditions of people. That mislaid 'y' is rather striking when a person - gets enough of it into a short sentence to enable it to show up. In the - hotel in Sydney the chambermaid said, one morning: - </p> - <p> - "The tyble is set, and here is the piper; and if the lydy is ready I'll - tell the wyter to bring up the breakfast." - </p> - <p> - I have made passing mention, a moment ago, of the native Australasian's - custom of speaking of England as "home." It was always pretty to hear it, - and often it was said in an unconsciously caressing way that made it - touching; in a way which transmuted a sentiment into an embodiment, and - made one seem to see Australasia as a young girl stroking mother England's - old gray head. - </p> - <p> - In the Australasian home the table-talk is vivacious and unembarrassed; it - is without stiffness or restraint. This does not remind one of England so - much as it does of America. But Australasia is strictly democratic, and - reserves and restraints are things that are bred by differences of rank. - </p> - <p> - English and colonial audiences are phenomenally alert and responsive. - Where masses of people are gathered together in England, caste is - submerged, and with it the English reserve; equality exists for the - moment, and every individual is free; so free from any consciousness of - fetters, indeed, that the Englishman's habit of watching himself and - guarding himself against any injudicious exposure of his feelings is - forgotten, and falls into abeyance—and to such a degree indeed, that - he will bravely applaud all by himself if he wants to—an exhibition - of daring which is unusual elsewhere in the world. - </p> - <p> - But it is hard to move a new English acquaintance when he is by himself, - or when the company present is small and new to him. He is on his guard - then, and his natural reserve is to the fore. This has given him the false - reputation of being without humor and without the appreciation of humor. - </p> - <p> - Americans are not Englishmen, and American humor is not English humor; but - both the American and his humor had their origin in England, and have - merely undergone changes brought about by changed conditions and a new - environment. About the best humorous speeches I have yet heard were a - couple that were made in Australia at club suppers—one of them by an - Englishman, the other by an Australian.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p131.jpg (9K)" src="images/p131.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch12" id="ch12"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are those who scoff at the schoolboy, calling him frivolous and - shallow: Yet it was the schoolboy who said "Faith is believing what you - know ain't so."</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - In Sydney I had a large dream, and in the course of talk I told it to a - missionary from India who was on his way to visit some relatives in New - Zealand. I dreamed that the visible universe is the physical person of - God; that the vast worlds that we see twinkling millions of miles apart in - the fields of space are the blood corpuscles in His veins; and that we and - the other creatures are the microbes that charge with multitudinous life - the corpuscles. - </p> - <p> - Mr. X., the missionary, considered the dream awhile, then said: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "It is not surpassable for magnitude, since its metes and bounds are the - metes and bounds of the universe itself; and it seems to me that it - almost accounts for a thing which is otherwise nearly unaccountable—the - origin of the sacred legends of the Hindoos. Perhaps they dream them, - and then honestly believe them to be divine revelations of fact. It - looks like that, for the legends are built on so vast a scale that it - does not seem reasonable that plodding priests would happen upon such - colossal fancies when awake." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - He told some of the legends, and said that they were implicitly believed - by all classes of Hindoos, including those of high social position and - intelligence; and he said that this universal credulity was a great - hindrance to the missionary in his work. Then he said something like this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At home, people wonder why Christianity does not make faster progress - in India. They hear that the Indians believe easily, and that they have - a natural trust in miracles and give them a hospitable reception. Then - they argue like this: since the Indian believes easily, place - Christianity before them and they must believe; confirm its truths by - the biblical miracles, and they will no longer doubt. The natural - deduction is, that as Christianity makes but indifferent progress in - India, the fault is with us: we are not fortunate in presenting the - doctrines and the miracles. - </p> - <p> - "But the truth is, we are not by any means so well equipped as they - think. We have not the easy task that they imagine. To use a military - figure, we are sent against the enemy with good powder in our guns, but - only wads for bullets; that is to say, our miracles are not effective; - the Hindoos do not care for them; they have more extraordinary ones of - their own. All the details of their own religion are proven and - established by miracles; the details of ours must be proven in the same - way. When I first began my work in India I greatly underestimated the - difficulties thus put upon my task. A correction was not long in coming. - I thought as our friends think at home—that to prepare my - childlike wonder-lovers to listen with favor to my grave message I only - needed to charm the way to it with wonders, marvels, miracles. With full - confidence I told the wonders performed by Samson, the strongest man - that had ever lived—for so I called him. - </p> - <p> - "At first I saw lively anticipation and strong interest in the faces of - my people, but as I moved along from incident to incident of the great - story, I was distressed to see that I was steadily losing the sympathy - of my audience. I could not understand it. It was a surprise to me, and - a disappointment. Before I was through, the fading sympathy had paled to - indifference. Thence to the end the indifference remained; I was not - able to make any impression upon it. - </p> - <p> - "A good old Hindoo gentleman told me where my trouble lay. He said 'We - Hindoos recognize a god by the work of his hands—we accept no - other testimony. Apparently, this is also the rule with you Christians. - And we know when a man has his power from a god by the fact that he does - things which he could not do, as a man, with the mere powers of a man. - Plainly, this is the Christian's way also, of knowing when a man is - working by a god's power and not by his own. You saw that there was a - supernatural property in the hair of Samson; for you perceived that when - his hair was gone he was as other men. It is our way, as I have said. - There are many nations in the world, and each group of nations has its - own gods, and will pay no worship to the gods of the others. Each group - believes its own gods to be strongest, and it will not exchange them - except for gods that shall be proven to be their superiors in power. Man - is but a weak creature, and needs the help of gods—he cannot do - without it. Shall he place his fate in the hands of weak gods when there - may be stronger ones to be found? That would be foolish. No, if he hear - of gods that are stronger than his own, he should not turn a deaf ear, - for it is not a light matter that is at stake. How then shall he - determine which gods are the stronger, his own or those that preside - over the concerns of other nations? By comparing the known works of his - own gods with the works of those others; there is no other way. Now, - when we make this comparison, we are not drawn towards the gods of any - other nation. Our gods are shown by their works to be the strongest, the - most powerful. The Christians have but few gods, and they are new—new, - and not strong; as it seems to us. They will increase in number, it is - true, for this has happened with all gods, but that time is far away, - many ages and decades of ages away, for gods multiply slowly, as is meet - for beings to whom a thousand years is but a single moment. Our own gods - have been born millions of years apart. The process is slow, the - gathering of strength and power is similarly slow. In the slow lapse of - the ages the steadily accumulating power of our gods has at last become - prodigious. We have a thousand proofs of this in the colossal character - of their personal acts and the acts of ordinary men to whom they have - given supernatural qualities. To your Samson was given supernatural - power, and when he broke the withes, and slew the thousands with the - jawbone of an ass, and carried away the gate's of the city upon his - shoulders, you were amazed—and also awed, for you recognized the - divine source of his strength. But it could not profit to place these - things before your Hindoo congregation and invite their wonder; for they - would compare them with the deed done by Hanuman, when our gods infused - their divine strength into his muscles; and they would be indifferent to - them—as you saw. In the old, old times, ages and ages gone by, - when our god Rama was warring with the demon god of Ceylon, Rama - bethought him to bridge the sea and connect Ceylon with India, so that - his armies might pass easily over; and he sent his general, Hanuman, - inspired like your own Samson with divine strength, to bring the - materials for the bridge. In two days Hanuman strode fifteen hundred - miles, to the Himalayas, and took upon his shoulder a range of those - lofty mountains two hundred miles long, and started with it toward - Ceylon. It was in the night; and, as he passed along the plain, the - people of Govardhun heard the thunder of his tread and felt the earth - rocking under it, and they ran out, and there, with their snowy summits - piled to heaven, they saw the Himalayas passing by. And as this huge - continent swept along overshadowing the earth, upon its slopes they - discerned the twinkling lights of a thousand sleeping villages, and it - was as if the constellations were filing in procession through the sky. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p135.jpg (54K)" src="images/p135.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - While they were looking, Hanuman stumbled, and a small ridge of red - sandstone twenty miles long was jolted loose and fell. Half of its - length has wasted away in the course of the ages, but the other ten - miles of it remain in the plain by Govardhun to this day as proof of the - might of the inspiration of our gods. You must know, yourself, that - Hanuman could not have carried those mountains to Ceylon except by the - strength of the gods. You know that it was not done by his own strength, - therefore, you know that it was done by the strength of the gods, just - as you know that Samson carried the gates by the divine strength and not - by his own. I think you must concede two things: First, That in carrying - the gates of the city upon his shoulders, Samson did not establish the - superiority of his gods over ours; secondly, That his feat is not - supported by any but verbal evidence, while Hanuman's is not only - supported by verbal evidence, but this evidence is confirmed, - established, proven, by visible, tangible evidence, which is the - strongest of all testimony. We have the sandstone ridge, and while it - remains we cannot doubt, and shall not. Have you the gates?'" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch13" id="ch13"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The timid man yearns for full value and asks a tenth. The bold man - strikes for double value and compromises on par.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - One is sure to be struck by the liberal way in which Australasia spends - money upon public works—such as legislative buildings, town halls, - hospitals, asylums, parks, and botanical gardens. I should say that where - minor towns in America spend a hundred dollars on the town hall and on - public parks and gardens, the like towns in Australasia spend a thousand. - And I think that this ratio will hold good in the matter of hospitals, - also. I have seen a costly and well-equipped, and architecturally handsome - hospital in an Australian village of fifteen hundred inhabitants. It was - built by private funds furnished by the villagers and the neighboring - planters, and its running expenses were drawn from the same sources. I - suppose it would be hard to match this in any country. This village was - about to close a contract for lighting its streets with the electric - light, when I was there. That is ahead of London. London is still obscured - by gas—gas pretty widely scattered, too, in some of the districts; - so widely indeed, that except on moonlight nights it is difficult to find - the gas lamps. - </p> - <p> - The botanical garden of Sydney covers thirty-eight acres, beautifully laid - out and rich with the spoil of all the lands and all the climes of the - world. The garden is on high ground in the middle of the town, overlooking - the great harbor, and it adjoins the spacious grounds of Government House—fifty-six - acres; and at hand also, is a recreation ground containing eighty-two - acres. In addition, there are the zoological gardens, the race-course, and - the great cricket-grounds where the international matches are played. - Therefore there is plenty of room for reposeful lazying and lounging, and - for exercise too, for such as like that kind of work. - </p> - <p> - There are four specialties attainable in the way of social pleasure. If - you enter your name on the Visitor's Book at Government House you will - receive an invitation to the next ball that takes place there, if nothing - can be proven against you. And it will be very pleasant; for you will see - everybody except the Governor, and add a number of acquaintances and - several friends to your list. The Governor will be in England. He always - is. The continent has four or five governors, and I do not know how many - it takes to govern the outlying archipelago; but anyway you will not see - them. When they are appointed they come out from England and get - inaugurated, and give a ball, and help pray for rain, and get aboard ship - and go back home. And so the Lieutenant-Governor has to do all the work. I - was in Australasia three months and a half, and saw only one Governor. The - others were at home. - </p> - <p> - The Australasian Governor would not be so restless, perhaps, if he had a - war, or a veto, or something like that to call for his reserve-energies, - but he hasn't. There isn't any war, and there isn't any veto in his hands. - And so there is really little or nothing doing in his line. The country - governs itself, and prefers to do it; and is so strenuous about it and so - jealous of its independence that it grows restive if even the Imperial - Government at home proposes to help; and so the Imperial veto, while a - fact, is yet mainly a name. - </p> - <p> - Thus the Governor's functions are much more limited than are a Governor's - functions with us. And therefore more fatiguing. He is the apparent head - of the State, he is the real head of Society. He represents culture, - refinement, elevated sentiment, polite life, religion; and by his example - he propagates these, and they spread and flourish and bear good fruit. He - creates the fashion, and leads it. His ball is the ball of balls, and his - countenance makes the horse-race thrive. - </p> - <p> - He is usually a lord, and this is well; for his position compels him to - lead an expensive life, and an English lord is generally well equipped for - that. - </p> - <p> - Another of Sydney's social pleasures is the visit to the Admiralty House; - which is nobly situated on high ground overlooking the water. The trim - boats of the service convey the guests thither; and there, or on board the - flag-ship, they have the duplicate of the hospitalities of Government - House. The Admiral commanding a station in British waters is a magnate of - the first degree, and he is sumptuously housed, as becomes the dignity of - his office.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p140.jpg (52K)" src="images/p140.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Third in the list of special pleasures is the tour of the harbor in a fine - steam pleasure-launch. Your richer friends own boats of this kind, and - they will invite you, and the joys of the trip will make a long day seem - short. - </p> - <p> - And finally comes the shark-fishing. Sydney Harbor is populous with the - finest breeds of man-eating sharks in the world. Some people make their - living catching them; for the Government pays a cash bounty on them. The - larger the shark the larger the bounty, and some of the sharks are twenty - feet long. You not only get the bounty, but everything that is in the - shark belongs to you. Sometimes the contents are quite valuable. - </p> - <p> - The shark is the swiftest fish that swims. The speed of the fastest - steamer afloat is poor compared to his. And he is a great gad-about, and - roams far and wide in the oceans, and visits the shores of all of them, - ultimately, in the course of his restless excursions. I have a tale to - tell now, which has not as yet been in print. In 1870 a young stranger - arrived in Sydney, and set about finding something to do; but he knew no - one, and brought no recommendations, and the result was that he got no - employment. He had aimed high, at first, but as time and his money wasted - away he grew less and less exacting, until at last he was willing to serve - in the humblest capacities if so he might get bread and shelter. But luck - was still against him; he could find no opening of any sort. Finally his - money was all gone. He walked the streets all day, thinking; he walked - them all night, thinking, thinking, and growing hungrier and hungrier. At - dawn he found himself well away from the town and drifting aimlessly along - the harbor shore. As he was passing by a nodding shark-fisher the man - looked up and said—— - </p> - <p> - "Say, young fellow, take my line a spell, and change my luck for me." - </p> - <p> - "How do you know I won't make it worse?" - </p> - <p> - "Because you can't. It has been at its worst all night. If you can't - change it, no harm's done; if you do change it, it's for the better, of - course. Come." - </p> - <p> - "All right, what will you give?" - </p> - <p> - "I'll give you the shark, if you catch one." - </p> - <p> - "And I will eat it, bones and all. Give me the line." - </p> - <p> - "Here you are. I will get away, now, for awhile, so that my luck won't - spoil yours; for many and many a time I've noticed that if——there, - pull in, pull in, man, you've got a bite! I knew how it would be. Why, I - knew you for a born son of luck the minute I saw you. All right—he's - landed." - </p> - <p> - It was an unusually large shark—"a full nineteen-footer," the - fisherman said, as he laid the creature open with his knife. - </p> - <p> - "Now you rob him, young man, while I step to my hamper for a fresh bait. - There's generally something in them worth going for. You've changed my - luck, you see. But my goodness, I hope you haven't changed your own." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, it wouldn't matter; don't worry about that. Get your bait. I'll rob - him." - </p> - <p> - When the fisherman got back the young man had just finished washing his - hands in the bay, and was starting away. - </p> - <p> - "What, you are not going?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes. Good-bye." - </p> - <p> - "But what about your shark?" - </p> - <p> - "The shark? Why, what use is he to me?" - </p> - <p> - "What use is he? I like that. Don't you know that we can go and report him - to Government, and you'll get a clean solid eighty shillings bounty? Hard - cash, you know. What do you think about it now?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, well, you can collect it." - </p> - <p> - "And keep it? Is that what you mean?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "Well, this is odd. You're one of those sort they call eccentrics, I - judge. The saying is, you mustn't judge a man by his clothes, and I'm - believing it now. Why yours are looking just ratty, don't you know; and - yet you must be rich." - </p> - <p> - "I am." - </p> - <p> - The young man walked slowly back to the town, deeply musing as he went. He - halted a moment in front of the best restaurant, then glanced at his - clothes and passed on, and got his breakfast at a "stand-up." There was a - good deal of it, and it cost five shillings. He tendered a sovereign, got - his change, glanced at his silver, muttered to himself, "There isn't - enough to buy clothes with," and went his way. - </p> - <p> - At half-past nine the richest wool-broker in Sydney was sitting in his - morning-room at home, settling his breakfast with the morning paper. A - servant put his head in and said: - </p> - <p> - "There's a sundowner at the door wants to see you, sir." - </p> - <p> - "What do you bring that kind of a message here for? Send him about his - business." - </p> - <p> - "He won't go, sir. I've tried." - </p> - <p> - "He won't go? That's—why, that's unusual. He's one of two things, - then: he's a remarkable person, or he's crazy. Is he crazy?" - </p> - <p> - "No, sir. He don't look it." - </p> - <p> - "Then he's remarkable. What does he say he wants?" - </p> - <p> - "He won't tell, sir; only says it's very important." - </p> - <p> - "And won't go. Does he say he won't go?" - </p> - <p> - "Says he'll stand there till he sees you, sir, if it's all day." - </p> - <p> - "And yet isn't crazy. Show him up." - </p> - <p> - The sundowner was shown in. The broker said to himself, "No, he's not - crazy; that is easy to see; so he must be the other thing." - </p> - <p> - Then aloud, "Well, my good fellow, be quick about it; don't waste any - words; what is it you want?" - </p> - <p> - "I want to borrow a hundred thousand pounds." - </p> - <p> - "Scott! (It's a mistake; he is crazy . . . . No—he can't be—not - with that eye.) Why, you take my breath away. Come, who are you?" - </p> - <p> - "Nobody that you know." - </p> - <p> - "What is your name?" - </p> - <p> - "Cecil Rhodes." - </p> - <p> - "No, I don't remember hearing the name before. Now then—just for - curiosity's sake—what has sent you to me on this extraordinary - errand?" - </p> - <p> - "The intention to make a hundred thousand pounds for you and as much for - myself within the next sixty days." - </p> - <p> - "Well, well, well. It is the most extraordinary idea that—sit down—you - interest me. And somehow you—well, you fascinate me; I think that - that is about the word. And it isn't your proposition—no, that - doesn't fascinate me; it's something else, I don't quite know what; - something that's born in you and oozes out of you, I suppose. Now then - just for curiosity's sake again, nothing more: as I understand it, it is - your desire to bor——" - </p> - <p> - "I said intention." - </p> - <p> - "Pardon, so you did. I thought it was an unheedful use of the word—an - unheedful valuing of its strength, you know." - </p> - <p> - "I knew its strength." - </p> - <p> - "Well, I must say—but look here, let me walk the floor a little, my - mind is getting into a sort of whirl, though you don't seem disturbed any. - (Plainly this young fellow isn't crazy; but as to his being remarkable—well, - really he amounts to that, and something over.) Now then, I believe I am - beyond the reach of further astonishment. Strike, and spare not. What is - your scheme?" - </p> - <p> - "To buy the wool crop—deliverable in sixty days." - </p> - <p> - "What, the whole of it?" - </p> - <p> - "The whole of it." - </p> - <p> - "No, I was not quite out of the reach of surprises, after all. Why, how - you talk! Do you know what our crop is going to foot up?" - </p> - <p> - "Two and a half million sterling—maybe a little more." - </p> - <p> - "Well, you've got your statistics right, any way. Now, then, do you know - what the margins would foot up, to buy it at sixty days?" - </p> - <p> - "The hundred thousand pounds I came here to get." - </p> - <p> - "Right, once more. Well, dear me, just to see what would happen, I wish - you had the money. And if you had it, what would you do with it?" - </p> - <p> - "I shall make two hundred thousand pounds out of it in sixty days." - </p> - <p> - "You mean, of course, that you might make it if——" - </p> - <p> - "I said 'shall'." - </p> - <p> - "Yes, by George, you did say 'shall'! You are the most definite devil I - ever saw, in the matter of language. Dear, dear, dear, look here! Definite - speech means clarity of mind. Upon my word I believe you've got what you - believe to be a rational reason, for venturing into this house, an entire - stranger, on this wild scheme of buying the wool crop of an entire colony - on speculation. Bring it out—I am prepared—acclimatized, if I - may use the word. Why would you buy the crop, and why would you make that - sum out of it? That is to say, what makes you think you——" - </p> - <p> - "I don't think—I know." - </p> - <p> - "Definite again. How do you know?" - </p> - <p> - "Because France has declared war against Germany, and wool has gone up - fourteen per cent. in London and is still rising." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, in-deed? Now then, I've got you! Such a thunderbolt as you have just - let fly ought to have made me jump out of my chair, but it didn't stir me - the least little bit, you see. And for a very simple reason: I have read - the morning paper. You can look at it if you want to. The fastest ship in - the service arrived at eleven o'clock last night, fifty days out from - London. All her news is printed here. There are no war-clouds anywhere; - and as for wool, why, it is the low-spiritedest commodity in the English - market. It is your turn to jump, now . . . . Well, why, don't you jump? - Why do you sit there in that placid fashion, when——" - </p> - <p> - "Because I have later news." - </p> - <p> - "Later news? Oh, come—later news than fifty days, brought steaming - hot from London by the——" - </p> - <p> - "My news is only ten days old." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, Mun-chausen, hear the maniac talk! Where did you get it?" - </p> - <p> - "Got it out of a shark."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p147.jpg (38K)" src="images/p147.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "Oh, oh, oh, this is too much! Front! call the police bring the gun—raise - the town! All the asylums in Christendom have broken loose in the single - person of——" - </p> - <p> - "Sit down! And collect yourself. Where is the use in getting excited? Am I - excited? There is nothing to get excited about. When I make a statement - which I cannot prove, it will be time enough for you to begin to offer - hospitality to damaging fancies about me and my sanity." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, a thousand, thousand pardons! I ought to be ashamed of myself, and I - am ashamed of myself for thinking that a little bit of a circumstance like - sending a shark to England to fetch back a market report——" - </p> - <p> - "What does your middle initial stand for, sir?" - </p> - <p> - "Andrew. What are you writing?" - </p> - <p> - "Wait a moment. Proof about the shark—and another matter. Only ten - lines. There—now it is done. Sign it." - </p> - <p> - "Many thanks—many. Let me see; it says—it says oh, come, this - is interesting! Why—why—look here! prove what you say here, - and I'll put up the money, and double as much, if necessary, and divide - the winnings with you, half and half. There, now—I've signed; make - your promise good if you can. Show me a copy of the London Times only ten - days old." - </p> - <p> - "Here it is—and with it these buttons and a memorandum book that - belonged to the man the shark swallowed. Swallowed him in the Thames, - without a doubt; for you will notice that the last entry in the book is - dated 'London,' and is of the same date as the Times, and says, 'Ber - confequentz der Kreigeseflarun, reife ich heute nach Deutchland ab, aur - bak ich mein leben auf dem Ultar meines Landes legen mag'——, - as clean native German as anybody can put upon paper, and means that in - consequence of the declaration of war, this loyal soul is leaving for home - to-day, to fight. And he did leave, too, but the shark had him before the - day was done, poor fellow." - </p> - <p> - "And a pity, too. But there are times for mourning, and we will attend to - this case further on; other matters are pressing, now. I will go down and - set the machinery in motion in a quiet way and buy the crop. It will cheer - the drooping spirits of the boys, in a transitory way. Everything is - transitory in this world. Sixty days hence, when they are called to - deliver the goods, they will think they've been struck by lightning. But - there is a time for mourning, and we will attend to that case along with - the other one. Come along, I'll take you to my tailor. What did you say - your name is?" - </p> - <p> - "Cecil Rhodes." - </p> - <p> - "It is hard to remember. However, I think you will make it easier by and - by, if you live. There are three kinds of people—Commonplace Men, - Remarkable Men, and Lunatics. I'll classify you with the Remarkables, and - take the chances." - </p> - <p> - The deal went through, and secured to the young stranger the first fortune - he ever pocketed. - </p> - <p> - The people of Sydney ought to be afraid of the sharks, but for some reason - they do not seem to be. On Saturdays the young men go out in their boats, - and sometimes the water is fairly covered with the little sails. A boat - upsets now and then, by accident, a result of tumultuous skylarking; - sometimes the boys upset their boat for fun—such as it is with - sharks visibly waiting around for just such an occurrence. The young - fellows scramble aboard whole—sometimes—not always. Tragedies - have happened more than once. While I was in Sydney it was reported that a - boy fell out of a boat in the mouth of the Paramatta river and screamed - for help and a boy jumped overboard from another boat to save him from the - assembling sharks; but the sharks made swift work with the lives of both. - </p> - <p> - The government pays a bounty for the shark; to get the bounty the - fishermen bait the hook or the seine with agreeable mutton; the news - spreads and the sharks come from all over the Pacific Ocean to get the - free board. In time the shark culture will be one of the most successful - things in the colony.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch14" id="ch14"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XIV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>We can secure other people's approval, if we do right and try hard; but - our own is worth a hundred of it, and no way has been found out of - securing that.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - My health had broken down in New York in May; it had remained in a - doubtful but fairish condition during a succeeding period of 82 days; it - broke again on the Pacific. It broke again in Sydney, but not until after - I had had a good outing, and had also filled my lecture engagements. This - latest break lost me the chance of seeing Queensland. In the - circumstances, to go north toward hotter weather was not advisable. - </p> - <p> - So we moved south with a westward slant, 17 hours by rail to the capital - of the colony of Victoria, Melbourne—that juvenile city of sixty - years, and half a million inhabitants. On the map the distance looked - small; but that is a trouble with all divisions of distance in such a vast - country as Australia. The colony of Victoria itself looks small on the map—looks - like a county, in fact—yet it is about as large as England, - Scotland, and Wales combined. Or, to get another focus upon it, it is just - 80 times as large as the state of Rhode Island, and one-third as large as - the State of Texas. - </p> - <p> - Outside of Melbourne, Victoria seems to be owned by a handful of - squatters, each with a Rhode Island for a sheep farm. That is the - impression which one gathers from common talk, yet the wool industry of - Victoria is by no means so great as that of New South Wales. The climate - of Victoria is favorable to other great industries—among others, - wheat-growing and the making of wine. - </p> - <p> - We took the train at Sydney at about four in the afternoon. It was - American in one way, for we had a most rational sleeping car; also the car - was clean and fine and new—nothing about it to suggest the rolling - stock of the continent of Europe. But our baggage was weighed, and extra - weight charged for. That was continental. Continental and troublesome. Any - detail of railroading that is not troublesome cannot honorably be - described as continental. - </p> - <p> - The tickets were round-trip ones—to Melbourne, and clear to Adelaide - in South Australia, and then all the way back to Sydney. Twelve hundred - more miles than we really expected to make; but then as the round trip - wouldn't cost much more than the single trip, it seemed well enough to buy - as many miles as one could afford, even if one was not likely to need - them. A human being has a natural desire to have more of a good thing than - he needs. - </p> - <p> - Now comes a singular thing: the oddest thing, the strangest thing, the - most baffling and unaccountable marvel that Australasia can show. At the - frontier between New South Wales and Victoria our multitude of passengers - were routed out of their snug beds by lantern-light in the morning in the - biting-cold of a high altitude to change cars on a road that has no break - in it from Sydney to Melbourne! Think of the paralysis of intellect that - gave that idea birth; imagine the boulder it emerged from on some - petrified legislator's shoulders.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p152.jpg (24K)" src="images/p152.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It is a narrow-gage road to the frontier, and a broader gauge thence to - Melbourne. The two governments were the builders of the road and are the - owners of it. One or two reasons are given for this curious state of - things. One is, that it represents the jealousy existing between the - colonies—the two most important colonies of Australasia. What the - other one is, I have forgotten. But it is of no consequence. It could be - but another effort to explain the inexplicable. - </p> - <p> - All passengers fret at the double-gauge; all shippers of freight must of - course fret at it; unnecessary expense, delay, and annoyance are imposed - upon everybody concerned, and no one is benefitted. - </p> - <p> - Each Australian colony fences itself off from its neighbor with a - custom-house. Personally, I have no objection, but it must be a good deal - of inconvenience to the people. We have something resembling it here and - there in America, but it goes by another name. The large empire of the - Pacific coast requires a world of iron machinery, and could manufacture it - economically on the spot if the imposts on foreign iron were removed. But - they are not. Protection to Pennsylvania and Alabama forbids it. The - result to the Pacific coast is the same as if there were several rows of - custom-fences between the coast and the East. Iron carted across the - American continent at luxurious railway rates would be valuable enough to - be coined when it arrived. - </p> - <p> - We changed cars. This was at Albury. And it was there, I think, that the - growing day and the early sun exposed the distant range called the Blue - Mountains. Accurately named. "My word!" as the Australians say, but it was - a stunning color, that blue. Deep, strong, rich, exquisite; towering and - majestic masses of blue—a softly luminous blue, a smouldering blue, - as if vaguely lit by fires within. It extinguished the blue of the sky—made - it pallid and unwholesome, whitey and washed-out. A wonderful color—just - divine. - </p> - <p> - A resident told me that those were not mountains; he said they were - rabbit-piles. And explained that long exposure and the over-ripe condition - of the rabbits was what made them look so blue. This man may have been - right, but much reading of books of travel has made me distrustful of - gratis information furnished by unofficial residents of a country. The - facts which such people give to travelers are usually erroneous, and often - intemperately so. The rabbit-plague has indeed been very bad in Australia, - and it could account for one mountain, but not for a mountain range, it - seems to me. It is too large an order. - </p> - <p> - We breakfasted at the station. A good breakfast, except the coffee; and - cheap. The Government establishes the prices and placards them. The - waiters were men, I think; but that is not usual in Australasia. The usual - thing is to have girls. No, not girls, young ladies—generally - duchesses. Dress? They would attract attention at any royal levee in - Europe. Even empresses and queens do not dress as they do. Not that they - could not afford it, perhaps, but they would not know how. - </p> - <p> - All the pleasant morning we slid smoothly along over the plains, through - thin—not thick—forests of great melancholy gum trees, with - trunks rugged with curled sheets of flaking bark—erysipelas - convalescents, so to speak, shedding their dead skins. And all along were - tiny cabins, built sometimes of wood, sometimes of gray-blue corrugated - iron; and the doorsteps and fences were clogged with children—rugged - little simply-clad chaps that looked as if they had been imported from the - banks of the Mississippi without breaking bulk.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p155.jpg (85K)" src="images/p155.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - And there were little villages, with neat stations well placarded with - showy advertisements—mainly of almost too self-righteous brands of - "sheepdip." If that is the name—and I think it is. It is a stuff - like tar, and is dabbed on to places where the shearer clips a piece out - of the sheep. It bars out the flies, and has healing properties, and a nip - to it which makes the sheep skip like the cattle on a thousand hills. It - is not good to eat. That is, it is not good to eat except when mixed with - railroad coffee. It improves railroad coffee. Without it railroad coffee - is too vague. But with it, it is quite assertive and enthusiastic. By - itself, railroad coffee is too passive; but sheep-dip makes it wake up and - get down to business. I wonder where they get railroad coffee? - </p> - <p> - We saw birds, but not a kangaroo, not an emu, not an ornithorhynchus, not - a lecturer, not a native. Indeed, the land seemed quite destitute of game. - But I have misused the word native. In Australia it is applied to - Australian-born whites only. I should have said that we saw no Aboriginals—no - "blackfellows." And to this day I have never seen one. In the great - museums you will find all the other curiosities, but in the curio of - chiefest interest to the stranger all of them are lacking. We have at home - an abundance of museums, and not an American Indian in them. It is clearly - an absurdity, but it never struck me before.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch15" id="ch15"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Truth is stranger than fiction—to some people, but I am - measurably familiar with it.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because Fiction is obliged to - stick to possibilities; Truth isn't.</i> - </p> - <p> - Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The air was balmy and delicious, the sunshine radiant; it was a charming - excursion. In the course of it we came to a town whose odd name was famous - all over the world a quarter of a century ago—Wagga-Wagga. This was - because the Tichborne Claimant had kept a butcher-shop there. It was out - of the midst of his humble collection of sausages and tripe that he soared - up into the zenith of notoriety and hung there in the wastes of space a - time, with the telescopes of all nations leveled at him in unappeasable - curiosity—curiosity as to which of the two long-missing persons he - was: Arthur Orton, the mislaid roustabout of Wapping, or Sir Roger - Tichborne, the lost heir of a name and estates as old as English history. - We all know now, but not a dozen people knew then; and the dozen kept the - mystery to themselves and allowed the most intricate and fascinating and - marvelous real-life romance that has ever been played upon the world's - stage to unfold itself serenely, act by act, in a British court by the - long and laborious processes of judicial development. - </p> - <p> - When we recall the details of that great romance we marvel to see what - daring chances truth may freely take in constructing a tale, as compared - with the poor little conservative risks permitted to fiction. The - fiction-artist could achieve no success with the materials of this - splendid Tichborne romance. - </p> - <p> - He would have to drop out the chief characters; the public would say such - people are impossible. He would have to drop out a number of the most - picturesque incidents; the public would say such things could never - happen. And yet the chief characters did exist, and the incidents did - happen. - </p> - <p> - It cost the Tichborne estates $400,000 to unmask the Claimant and drive - him out; and even after the exposure multitudes of Englishmen still - believed in him. It cost the British Government another $400,000 to - convict him of perjury; and after the conviction the same old multitudes - still believed in him; and among these believers were many educated and - intelligent men; and some of them had personally known the real Sir Roger. - The Claimant was sentenced to 14 years' imprisonment. When he got out of - prison he went to New York and kept a whisky saloon in the Bowery for a - time, then disappeared from view. - </p> - <p> - He always claimed to be Sir Roger Tichborne until death called for him. - This was but a few months ago—not very much short of a generation - since he left Wagga-Wagga to go and possess himself of his estates. On his - death-bed he yielded up his secret, and confessed in writing that he was - only Arthur Orton of Wapping, able seaman and butcher—that and - nothing more. But it is scarcely to be doubted that there are people whom - even his dying confession will not convince. The old habit of assimilating - incredibilities must have made strong food a necessity in their case; a - weaker article would probably disagree with them. - </p> - <p> - I was in London when the Claimant stood his trial for perjury. I attended - one of his showy evenings in the sumptuous quarters provided for him from - the purses of his adherents and well-wishers. He was in evening dress, and - I thought him a rather fine and stately creature. There were about - twenty-five gentlemen present; educated men, men moving in good society, - none of them commonplace; some of them were men of distinction, none of - them were obscurities. They were his cordial friends and admirers. It was - "Sir Roger," always "Sir Roger," on all hands; no one withheld the title, - all turned it from the tongue with unction, and as if it tasted good. - </p> - <p> - For many years I had had a mystery in stock. Melbourne, and only - Melbourne, could unriddle it for me. In 1873 I arrived in London with my - wife and young child, and presently received a note from Naples signed by - a name not familiar to me. It was not Bascom, and it was not Henry; but I - will call it Henry Bascom for convenience's sake. This note, of about six - lines, was written on a strip of white paper whose end-edges were ragged. - I came to be familiar with those strips in later years. Their size and - pattern were always the same. Their contents were usually to the same - effect: would I and mine come to the writer's country-place in England on - such and such a date, by such and such a train, and stay twelve days and - depart by such and such a train at the end of the specified time? A - carriage would meet us at the station. - </p> - <p> - These invitations were always for a long time ahead; if we were in Europe, - three months ahead; if we were in America, six to twelve months ahead. - They always named the exact date and train for the beginning and also for - the end of the visit. - </p> - <p> - This first note invited us for a date three months in the future. It asked - us to arrive by the 4.10 p.m. train from London, August 6th. The carriage - would be waiting. The carriage would take us away seven days later-train - specified. And there were these words: "Speak to Tom Hughes." - </p> - <p> - I showed the note to the author of "Tom Brown at Rugby," and he said: - "Accept, and be thankful." - </p> - <p> - He described Mr. Bascom as being a man of genius, a man of fine - attainments, a choice man in every way, a rare and beautiful character. He - said that Bascom Hall was a particularly fine example of the stately - manorial mansion of Elizabeth's days, and that it was a house worth going - a long way to see—like Knowle; that Mr. B. was of a social - disposition; liked the company of agreeable people, and always had samples - of the sort coming and going. - </p> - <p> - We paid the visit. We paid others, in later years—the last one in - 1879. Soon after that Mr. Bascom started on a voyage around the world in a - steam yacht—a long and leisurely trip, for he was making - collections, in all lands, of birds, butterflies, and such things. - </p> - <p> - The day that President Garfield was shot by the assassin Guiteau, we were - at a little watering place on Long Island Sound; and in the mail matter of - that day came a letter with the Melbourne post-mark on it. It was for my - wife, but I recognized Mr. Bascom's handwriting on the envelope, and - opened it. It was the usual note—as to paucity of lines—and - was written on the customary strip of paper; but there was nothing usual - about the contents. The note informed my wife that if it would be any - assuagement of her grief to know that her husband's lecture-tour in - Australia was a satisfactory venture from the beginning to the end, he, - the writer, could testify that such was the case; also, that her husband's - untimely death had been mourned by all classes, as she would already know - by the press telegrams, long before the reception of this note; that the - funeral was attended by the officials of the colonial and city - governments; and that while he, the writer, her friend and mine, had not - reached Melbourne in time to see the body, he had at least had the sad - privilege of acting as one of the pall-bearers. Signed, "Henry Bascom." - </p> - <p> - My first thought was, why didn't he have the coffin opened? He would have - seen that the corpse was an imposter, and he could have gone right ahead - and dried up the most of those tears, and comforted those sorrowing - governments, and sold the remains and sent me the money. - </p> - <p> - I did nothing about the matter. I had set the law after living lecture - doubles of mine a couple of times in America, and the law had not been - able to catch them; others in my trade had tried to catch their - impostor-doubles and had failed. Then where was the use in harrying a - ghost? None—and so I did not disturb it. I had a curiosity to know - about that man's lecture-tour and last moments, but that could wait. When - I should see Mr. Bascom he would tell me all about it. But he passed from - life, and I never saw him again.. My curiosity faded away. - </p> - <p> - However, when I found that I was going to Australia it revived. And - naturally: for if the people should say that I was a dull, poor thing - compared to what I was before I died, it would have a bad effect on - business. Well, to my surprise the Sydney journalists had never heard of - that impostor! I pressed them, but they were firm—they had never - heard of him, and didn't believe in him. - </p> - <p> - I could not understand it; still, I thought it would all come right in - Melbourne. The government would remember; and the other mourners. At the - supper of the Institute of Journalists I should find out all about the - matter. But no—it turned out that they had never heard of it. - </p> - <p> - So my mystery was a mystery still. It was a great disappointment. I - believed it would never be cleared up—in this life—so I - dropped it out of my mind. - </p> - <p> - But at last! just when I was least expecting it—— - </p> - <p> - However, this is not the place for the rest of it; I shall come to the - matter again, in a far-distant chapter.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch16" id="ch16"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There is a Moral sense, and there is an Immoral Sense. History shows us - that the Moral Sense enables us to perceive morality and how to avoid it, - and that the Immoral Sense enables us to perceive immorality and how to - enjoy it.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Melbourne spreads around over an immense area of ground. It is a stately - city architecturally as well as in magnitude. It has an elaborate system - of cable-car service; it has museums, and colleges, and schools, and - public gardens, and electricity, and gas, and libraries, and theaters, and - mining centers, and wool centers, and centers of the arts and sciences, - and boards of trade, and ships, and railroads, and a harbor, and social - clubs, and journalistic clubs, and racing clubs, and a squatter club - sumptuously housed and appointed, and as many churches and banks as can - make a living. In a word, it is equipped with everything that goes to make - the modern great city. It is the largest city of Australasia, and fills - the post with honor and credit. It has one specialty; this must not be - jumbled in with those other things. It is the mitred Metropolitan of the - Horse-Racing Cult. Its race-ground is the Mecca of Australasia. On the - great annual day of sacrifice—the 5th of November, Guy Fawkes's Day—business - is suspended over a stretch of land and sea as wide as from New York to - San Francisco, and deeper than from the northern lakes to the Gulf of - Mexico; and every man and woman, of high degree or low, who can afford the - expense, put away their other duties and come. They begin to swarm in by - ship and rail a fortnight before the day, and they swarm thicker and - thicker day after day, until all the vehicles of transportation are taxed - to their uttermost to meet the demands of the occasion, and all hotels and - lodgings are bulging outward because of the pressure from within. They - come a hundred thousand strong, as all the best authorities say, and they - pack the spacious grounds and grandstands and make a spectacle such as is - never to be seen in Australasia elsewhere. - </p> - <p> - It is the "Melbourne Cup" that brings this multitude together. Their - clothes have been ordered long ago, at unlimited cost, and without bounds - as to beauty and magnificence, and have been kept in concealment until - now, for unto this day are they consecrate. I am speaking of the ladies' - clothes; but one might know that. - </p> - <p> - And so the grand-stands make a brilliant and wonderful spectacle, a - delirium of color, a vision of beauty. The champagne flows, everybody is - vivacious, excited, happy; everybody bets, and gloves and fortunes change - hands right along, all the time. Day after day the races go on, and the - fun and the excitement are kept at white heat; and when each day is done, - the people dance all night so as to be fresh for the race in the morning. - And at the end of the great week the swarms secure lodgings and - transportation for next year, then flock away to their remote homes and - count their gains and losses, and order next year's Cup-clothes, and then - lie down and sleep two weeks, and get up sorry to reflect that a whole - year must be put in somehow or other before they can be wholly happy - again. - </p> - <p> - The Melbourne Cup is the Australasian National Day. It would be difficult - to overstate its importance. It overshadows all other holidays and - specialized days of whatever sort in that congeries of colonies. - Overshadows them? I might almost say it blots them out. Each of them gets - attention, but not everybody's; each of them evokes interest, but not - everybody's; each of them rouses enthusiasm, but not everybody's; in each - case a part of the attention, interest, and enthusiasm is a matter of - habit and custom, and another part of it is official and perfunctory. Cup - Day, and Cup Day only, commands an attention, an interest, and an - enthusiasm which are universal—and spontaneous, not perfunctory. Cup - Day is supreme—it has no rival. I can call to mind no specialized - annual day, in any country, which can be named by that large name—Supreme. - I can call to mind no specialized annual day, in any country, whose - approach fires the whole land with a conflagration of conversation and - preparation and anticipation and jubilation. No day save this one; but - this one does it. - </p> - <p> - In America we have no annual supreme day; no day whose approach makes the - whole nation glad. We have the Fourth of July, and Christmas, and - Thanksgiving. Neither of them can claim the primacy; neither of them can - arouse an enthusiasm which comes near to being universal. Eight grown - Americans out of ten dread the coming of the Fourth, with its pandemonium - and its perils, and they rejoice when it is gone—if still alive. The - approach of Christmas brings harassment and dread to many excellent - people. They have to buy a cart-load of presents, and they never know what - to buy to hit the various tastes; they put in three weeks of hard and - anxious work, and when Christmas morning comes they are so dissatisfied - with the result, and so disappointed that they want to sit down and cry. - Then they give thanks that Christmas comes but once a year. The observance - of Thanksgiving Day—as a function—has become general of late - years. The Thankfulness is not so general. This is natural. Two-thirds of - the nation have always had hard luck and a hard time during the year, and - this has a calming effect upon their enthusiasm. - </p> - <p> - We have a supreme day—a sweeping and tremendous and tumultuous day, - a day which commands an absolute universality of interest and excitement; - but it is not annual. It comes but once in four years; therefore it cannot - count as a rival of the Melbourne Cup. - </p> - <p> - In Great Britain and Ireland they have two great days—Christmas and - the Queen's birthday. But they are equally popular; there is no supremacy. - </p> - <p> - I think it must be conceded that the position of the Australasian Day is - unique, solitary, unfellowed; and likely to hold that high place a long - time. - </p> - <p> - The next things which interest us when we travel are, first, the people; - next, the novelties; and finally the history of the places and countries - visited. Novelties are rare in cities which represent the most advanced - civilization of the modern day. When one is familiar with such cities in - the other parts of the world he is in effect familiar with the cities of - Australasia. The outside aspects will furnish little that is new. There - will be new names, but the things which they represent will sometimes be - found to be less new than their names. There may be shades of difference, - but these can easily be too fine for detection by the incompetent eye of - the passing stranger. In the larrikin he will not be able to discover a - new species, but only an old one met elsewhere, and variously called - loafer, rough, tough, bummer, or blatherskite, according to his - geographical distribution. The larrikin differs by a shade from those - others, in that he is more sociable toward the stranger than they, more - kindly disposed, more hospitable, more hearty, more friendly. At least it - seemed so to me, and I had opportunity to observe. In Sydney, at least. In - Melbourne I had to drive to and from the lecture-theater, but in Sydney I - was able to walk both ways, and did it. Every night, on my way home at - ten, or a quarter past, I found the larrikin grouped in considerable force - at several of the street corners, and he always gave me this pleasant - salutation: - </p> - <p> - "Hello, Mark!" - </p> - <p> - "Here's to you, old chap!<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p166.jpg (78K)" src="images/p166.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "Say—Mark!—is he dead?"—a reference to a passage in some - book of mine, though I did not detect, at that time, that that was its - source. And I didn't detect it afterward in Melbourne, when I came on the - stage for the first time, and the same question was dropped down upon me - from the dizzy height of the gallery. It is always difficult to answer a - sudden inquiry like that, when you have come unprepared and don't know - what it means. I will remark here—if it is not an indecorum—that - the welcome which an American lecturer gets from a British colonial - audience is a thing which will move him to his deepest deeps, and veil his - sight and break his voice. And from Winnipeg to Africa, experience will - teach him nothing; he will never learn to expect it, it will catch him as - a surprise each time. The war-cloud hanging black over England and America - made no trouble for me. I was a prospective prisoner of war, but at - dinners, suppers, on the platform, and elsewhere, there was never anything - to remind me of it. This was hospitality of the right metal, and would - have been prominently lacking in some countries, in the circumstances. - </p> - <p> - And speaking of the war-flurry, it seemed to me to bring to light the - unexpected, in a detail or two. It seemed to relegate the war-talk to the - politicians on both sides of the water; whereas whenever a prospective war - between two nations had been in the air theretofore, the public had done - most of the talking and the bitterest. The attitude of the newspapers was - new also. I speak of those of Australasia and India, for I had access to - those only. They treated the subject argumentatively and with dignity, not - with spite and anger. That was a new spirit, too, and not learned of the - French and German press, either before Sedan or since. I heard many public - speeches, and they reflected the moderation of the journals. The outlook - is that the English-speaking race will dominate the earth a hundred years - from now, if its sections do not get to fighting each other. It would be a - pity to spoil that prospect by baffling and retarding wars when - arbitration would settle their differences so much better and also so much - more definitely. - </p> - <p> - No, as I have suggested, novelties are rare in the great capitals of - modern times. Even the wool exchange in Melbourne could not be told from - the familiar stock exchange of other countries. Wool brokers are just like - stockbrokers; they all bounce from their seats and put up their hands and - yell in unison—no stranger can tell what—and the president - calmly says "Sold to Smith & Co., threpence farthing—next!"—when - probably nothing of the kind happened; for how should he know? - </p> - <p> - In the museums you will find acres of the most strange and fascinating - things; but all museums are fascinating, and they do so tire your eyes, - and break your back, and burn out your vitalities with their consuming - interest. You always say you will never go again, but you do go. The - palaces of the rich, in Melbourne, are much like the palaces of the rich - in America, and the life in them is the same; but there the resemblance - ends. The grounds surrounding the American palace are not often large, and - not often beautiful, but in the Melbourne case the grounds are often - ducally spacious, and the climate and the gardeners together make them as - beautiful as a dream. It is said that some of the country seats have - grounds—domains—about them which rival in charm and magnitude - those which surround the country mansion of an English lord; but I was not - out in the country; I had my hands full in town. - </p> - <p> - And what was the origin of this majestic city and its efflorescence of - palatial town houses and country seats? Its first brick was laid and its - first house built by a passing convict. Australian history is almost - always picturesque; indeed, it is so curious and strange, that it is - itself the chiefest novelty the country has to offer, and so it pushes the - other novelties into second and third place. It does not read like - history, but like the most beautiful lies. And all of a fresh new sort, no - mouldy old stale ones. It is full of surprises, and adventures, and - incongruities, and contradictions, and incredibilities; but they are all - true, they all happened.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p169.jpg (11K)" src="images/p169.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch17" id="ch17"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The English are mentioned in the Bible: Blessed are the meek, for they - shall inherit the earth.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - When we consider the immensity of the British Empire in territory, - population, and trade, it requires a stern exercise of faith to believe in - the figures which represent Australasia's contribution to the Empire's - commercial grandeur. As compared with the landed estate of the British - Empire, the landed estate dominated by any other Power except one—Russia—is - not very impressive for size. My authorities make the British Empire not - much short of a fourth larger than the Russian Empire. Roughly - proportioned, if you will allow your entire hand to represent the British - Empire, you may then cut off the fingers a trifle above the middle joint - of the middle finger, and what is left of the hand will represent Russia. - The populations ruled by Great Britain and China are about the same—400,000,000 - each. No other Power approaches these figures. Even Russia is left far - behind.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p171.jpg (23K)" src="images/p171.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The population of Australasia—4,000,000—sinks into - nothingness, and is lost from sight in that British ocean of 400,000,000. - Yet the statistics indicate that it rises again and shows up very - conspicuously when its share of the Empire's commerce is the matter under - consideration. The value of England's annual exports and imports is stated - at three billions of dollars,—[New South Wales Blue Book.]—and - it is claimed that more than one-tenth of this great aggregate is - represented by Australasia's exports to England and imports from England. - In addition to this, Australasia does a trade with countries other than - England, amounting to a hundred million dollars a year, and a domestic - intercolonial trade amounting to a hundred and fifty millions. - </p> - <p> - In round numbers the 4,000,000 buy and sell about $600,000,000 worth of - goods a year. It is claimed that about half of this represents commodities - of Australasian production. The products exported annually by India are - worth a trifle over $500,000,000.1 Now, here are some faith-straining - figures: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - Indian production (300,000,000 population), - </td> - <td> - $500,000,000. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Australasian production (4,000,000 population), - </td> - <td> - $300,000,000. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - That is to say, the product of the individual Indian, annually (for export - some whither), is worth $1.75; that of the individual Australasian (for - export some whither), $75! Or, to put it in another way, the Indian family - of man and wife and three children sends away an annual result worth - $8.75, while the Australasian family sends away $375 worth. - </p> - <p> - There are trustworthy statistics furnished by Sir Richard Temple and - others, which show that the individual Indian's whole annual product, both - for export and home use, is worth in gold only $7.50; or, $37.50 for the - family-aggregate. Ciphered out on a like ratio of multiplication, the - Australasian family's aggregate production would be nearly $1,600. Truly, - nothing is so astonishing as figures, if they once get started. - </p> - <p> - We left Melbourne by rail for Adelaide, the capital of the vast Province - of South Australia—a seventeen-hour excursion. On the train we found - several Sydney friends; among them a Judge who was going out on circuit, - and was going to hold court at Broken Hill, where the celebrated silver - mine is. It seemed a curious road to take to get to that region. Broken - Hill is close to the western border of New South Wales, and Sydney is on - the eastern border. A fairly straight line, 700 miles long, drawn westward - from Sydney, would strike Broken Hill, just as a somewhat shorter one - drawn west from Boston would strike Buffalo. The way the Judge was - traveling would carry him over 2,000 miles by rail, he said; southwest - from Sydney down to Melbourne, then northward up to Adelaide, then a cant - back northeastward and over the border into New South Wales once more—to - Broken Hill. It was like going from Boston southwest to Richmond, - Virginia, then northwest up to Erie, Pennsylvania, then a cant back - northeast and over the border—to Buffalo, New York. - </p> - <p> - But the explanation was simple. Years ago the fabulously rich silver - discovery at Broken Hill burst suddenly upon an unexpectant world. Its - stocks started at shillings, and went by leaps and bounds to the most - fanciful figures. It was one of those cases where the cook puts a month's - wages into shares, and comes next month and buys your house at your own - price, and moves into it herself; where the coachman takes a few shares, - and next month sets up a bank; and where the common sailor invests the - price of a spree, and the next month buys out the steamship company and - goes into business on his own hook. In a word, it was one of those - excitements which bring multitudes of people to a common center with a - rush, and whose needs must be supplied, and at once. Adelaide was close - by, Sydney was far away. Adelaide threw a short railway across the border - before Sydney had time to arrange for a long one; it was not worth while - for Sydney to arrange at all. The whole vast trade-profit of Broken Hill - fell into Adelaide's hands, irrevocably. New South Wales law furnishes for - Broken Hill and sends her Judges 2,000 miles—mainly through alien - countries—to administer it, but Adelaide takes the dividends and - makes no moan. - </p> - <p> - We started at 4.20 in the afternoon, and moved across level plains until - night. In the morning we had a stretch of "scrub" country—the kind - of thing which is so useful to the Australian novelist. In the scrub the - hostile aboriginal lurks, and flits mysteriously about, slipping out from - time to time to surprise and slaughter the settler; then slipping back - again, and leaving no track that the white man can follow. In the scrub - the novelist's heroine gets lost, search fails of result; she wanders here - and there, and finally sinks down exhausted and unconscious, and the - searchers pass within a yard or two of her, not suspecting that she is - near, and by and by some rambler finds her bones and the pathetic diary - which she had scribbled with her failing hand and left behind. Nobody can - find a lost heroine in the scrub but the aboriginal "tracker," and he will - not lend himself to the scheme if it will interfere with the novelist's - plot. The scrub stretches miles and miles in all directions, and looks - like a level roof of bush-tops without a break or a crack in it—as - seamless as a blanket, to all appearance. One might as well walk under - water and hope to guess out a route and stick to it, I should think. Yet - it is claimed that the aboriginal "tracker" was able to hunt out people - lost in the scrub. Also in the "bush"; also in the desert; and even follow - them over patches of bare rocks and over alluvial ground which had to all - appearance been washed clear of footprints. - </p> - <p> - From reading Australian books and talking with the people, I became - convinced that the aboriginal tracker's performances evince a craft, a - penetration, a luminous sagacity, and a minuteness and accuracy of - observation in the matter of detective-work not found in nearly so - remarkable a degree in any other people, white or colored. In an official - account of the blacks of Australia published by the government of - Victoria, one reads that the aboriginal not only notices the faint marks - left on the bark of a tree by the claws of a climbing opossum, but knows - in some way or other whether the marks were made to-day or yesterday.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p175.jpg (64K)" src="images/p175.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - And there is the case, on record where A., a settler, makes a bet with B., - that B. may lose a cow as effectually as he can, and A. will produce an - aboriginal who will find her. B. selects a cow and lets the tracker see - the cow's footprint, then be put under guard. B. then drives the cow a few - miles over a course which drifts in all directions, and frequently doubles - back upon itself; and he selects difficult ground all the time, and once - or twice even drives the cow through herds of other cows, and mingles her - tracks in the wide confusion of theirs. He finally brings his cow home; - the aboriginal is set at liberty, and at once moves around in a great - circle, examining all cow-tracks until he finds the one he is after; then - sets off and follows it throughout its erratic course, and ultimately - tracks it to the stable where B. has hidden the cow. Now wherein does one - cow-track differ from another? There must be a difference, or the tracker - could not have performed the feat; a difference minute, shadowy, and not - detectible by you or me, or by the late Sherlock Holmes, and yet - discernible by a member of a race charged by some people with occupying - the bottom place in the gradations of human intelligence.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch18" id="ch18"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It is easier to stay out than get out.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The train was now exploring a beautiful hill country, and went twisting in - and out through lovely little green valleys. There were several varieties - of gum trees; among them many giants. Some of them were bodied and barked - like the sycamore; some were of fantastic aspect, and reminded one of the - quaint apple trees in Japanese pictures. And there was one peculiarly - beautiful tree whose name and breed I did not know. The foliage seemed to - consist of big bunches of pine-spines, the lower half of each bunch a rich - brown or old-gold color, the upper half a most vivid and strenuous and - shouting green. The effect was altogether bewitching. The tree was - apparently rare. I should say that the first and last samples of it seen - by us were not more than half an hour apart. There was another tree of - striking aspect, a kind of pine, we were told. Its foliage was as fine as - hair, apparently, and its mass sphered itself above the naked straight - stem like an explosion of misty smoke. It was not a sociable sort; it did - not gather in groups or couples, but each individual stood far away from - its nearest neighbor. It scattered itself in this spacious and exclusive - fashion about the slopes of swelling grassy great knolls, and stood in the - full flood of the wonderful sunshine; and as far as you could see the tree - itself you could also see the ink-black blot of its shadow on the shining - green carpet at its feet. - </p> - <p> - On some part of this railway journey we saw gorse and broom—importations - from England—and a gentleman who came into our compartment on a - visit tried to tell me which—was which; but as he didn't know, he - had difficulty. He said he was ashamed of his ignorance, but that he had - never been confronted with the question before during the fifty years and - more that he had spent in Australia, and so he had never happened to get - interested in the matter. But there was no need to be ashamed. The most of - us have his defect. We take a natural interest in novelties, but it is - against nature to take an interest in familiar things. The gorse and the - broom were a fine accent in the landscape. Here and there they burst out - in sudden conflagrations of vivid yellow against a background of sober or - sombre color, with a so startling effect as to make a body catch his - breath with the happy surprise of it. And then there was the wattle, a - native bush or tree, an inspiring cloud of sumptuous yellow bloom. It is a - favorite with the Australians, and has a fine fragrance, a quality usually - wanting in Australian blossoms. - </p> - <p> - The gentleman who enriched me with the poverty of his information about - the gorse and the broom told me that he came out from England a youth of - twenty and entered the Province of South Australia with thirty-six - shillings in his pocket—an adventurer without trade, profession, or - friends, but with a clearly-defined purpose in his head: he would stay - until he was worth L200, then go back home. He would allow himself five - years for the accumulation of this fortune. - </p> - <p> - "That was more than fifty years ago," said he. "And here I am, yet." - </p> - <p> - As he went out at the door he met a friend, and turned and introduced him - to me, and the friend and I had a talk and a smoke. I spoke of the - previous conversation and said there was something very pathetic about - this half century of exile, and that I wished the L200 scheme had - succeeded.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p178.jpg (67K)" src="images/p178.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "With him? Oh, it did. It's not so sad a case. He is modest, and he left - out some of the particulars. The lad reached South Australia just in time - to help discover the Burra-Burra copper mines. They turned out L700,000 in - the first three years. Up to now they have yielded L20,000,000. He has had - his share. Before that boy had been in the country two years he could have - gone home and bought a village; he could go now and buy a city, I think. - No, there is nothing very pathetic about his case. He and his copper - arrived at just a handy time to save South Australia. It had got mashed - pretty flat under the collapse of a land boom a while before." There it is - again; picturesque history—Australia's specialty. In 1829 South - Australia hadn't a white man in it. In 1836 the British Parliament erected - it—still a solitude—into a Province, and gave it a governor - and other governmental machinery. Speculators took hold, now, and - inaugurated a vast land scheme, and invited immigration, encouraging it - with lurid promises of sudden wealth. It was well worked in London; and - bishops, statesmen, and all sorts of people made a rush for the land - company's shares. Immigrants soon began to pour into the region of - Adelaide and select town lots and farms in the sand and the mangrove - swamps by the sea. The crowds continued to come, prices of land rose high, - then higher and still higher, everybody was prosperous and happy, the boom - swelled into gigantic proportions. A village of sheet iron huts and - clapboard sheds sprang up in the sand, and in these wigwams fashion made - display; richly-dressed ladies played on costly pianos, London swells in - evening dress and patent-leather boots were abundant, and this fine - society drank champagne, and in other ways conducted itself in this - capital of humble sheds as it had been accustomed to do in the - aristocratic quarters of the metropolis of the world. The provincial - government put up expensive buildings for its own use, and a palace with - gardens for the use of its governor. The governor had a guard, and - maintained a court. Roads, wharves, and hospitals were built. All this on - credit, on paper, on wind, on inflated and fictitious values—on the - boom's moonshine, in fact. This went on handsomely during four or five - years. Then all of a sudden came a smash. Bills for a huge amount drawn by - the governor upon the Treasury were dishonored, the land company's credit - went up in smoke, a panic followed, values fell with a rush, the - frightened immigrants seized their gripsacks and fled to other lands, - leaving behind them a good imitation of a solitude, where lately had been - a buzzing and populous hive of men. - </p> - <p> - Adelaide was indeed almost empty; its population had fallen to 3,000. - During two years or more the death-trance continued. Prospect of revival - there was none; hope of it ceased. Then, as suddenly as the paralysis had - come, came the resurrection from it. Those astonishingly rich copper mines - were discovered, and the corpse got up and danced. - </p> - <p> - The wool production began to grow; grain-raising followed—followed - so vigorously, too, that four or five years after the copper discovery, - this little colony, which had had to import its breadstuffs formerly, and - pay hard prices for them—once $50 a barrel for flour—had - become an exporter of grain. - </p> - <p> - The prosperities continued. After many years Providence, desiring to show - especial regard for New South Wales and exhibit loving interest in its - welfare which should certify to all nations the recognition of that - colony's conspicuous righteousness and distinguished well-deserving, - conferred upon it that treasury of inconceivable riches, Broken Hill; and - South Australia went over the border and took it, giving thanks. - </p> - <p> - Among our passengers was an American with a unique vocation. Unique is a - strong word, but I use it justifiably if I did not misconceive what the - American told me; for I understood him to say that in the world there was - not another man engaged in the business which he was following. He was - buying the kangaroo-skin crop; buying all of it, both the Australian crop - and the Tasmanian; and buying it for an American house in New York. The - prices were not high, as there was no competition, but the year's - aggregate of skins would cost him L30,000. I had had the idea that the - kangaroo was about extinct in Tasmania and well thinned out on the - continent. In America the skins are tanned and made into shoes. After the - tanning, the leather takes a new name—which I have forgotten—I - only remember that the new name does not indicate that the kangaroo - furnishes the leather. There was a German competition for a while, some - years ago, but that has ceased. The Germans failed to arrive at the secret - of tanning the skins successfully, and they withdrew from the business. - Now then, I suppose that I have seen a man whose occupation is really - entitled to bear that high epithet—unique. And I suppose that there - is not another occupation in the world that is restricted to the hands of - a sole person. I can think of no instance of it. There is more than one - Pope, there is more than one Emperor, there is even more than one living - god, walking upon the earth and worshiped in all sincerity by large - populations of men. I have seen and talked with two of these Beings myself - in India, and I have the autograph of one of them. It can come good, by - and by, I reckon, if I attach it to a "permit." - </p> - <p> - Approaching Adelaide we dismounted from the train, as the French say, and - were driven in an open carriage over the hills and along their slopes to - the city. It was an excursion of an hour or two, and the charm of it could - not be overstated, I think. The road wound around gaps and gorges, and - offered all varieties of scenery and prospect—mountains, crags, - country homes, gardens, forests—color, color, color everywhere, and - the air fine and fresh, the skies blue, and not a shred of cloud to mar - the downpour of the brilliant sunshine. And finally the mountain gateway - opened, and the immense plain lay spread out below and stretching away - into dim distances on every hand, soft and delicate and dainty and - beautiful. On its near edge reposed the city. - </p> - <p> - We descended and entered. There was nothing to remind one of the humble - capital, of huts and sheds of the long-vanished day of the land-boom. No, - this was a modern city, with wide streets, compactly built; with fine - homes everywhere, embowered in foliage and flowers, and with imposing - masses of public buildings nobly grouped and architecturally beautiful. - </p> - <p> - There was prosperity, in the air; for another boom was on. Providence, - desiring to show especial regard for the neighboring colony on the west - called Western Australia—and exhibit loving interest in its welfare - which should certify to all nations the recognition of that colony's - conspicuous righteousness and distinguished well-deserving, had recently - conferred upon it that majestic treasury of golden riches, Coolgardie; and - now South Australia had gone around the corner and taken it, giving - thanks. Everything comes to him who is patient and good, and waits. - </p> - <p> - But South Australia deserves much, for apparently she is a hospitable home - for every alien who chooses to come; and for his religion, too. She has a - population, as per the latest census, of only 320,000-odd, and yet her - varieties of religion indicate the presence within her borders of samples - of people from pretty nearly every part of the globe you can think of. - Tabulated, these varieties of religion make a remarkable show. One would - have to go far to find its match. I copy here this cosmopolitan curiosity, - and it comes from the published census: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Church of England, - </td> - <td> - 89,271 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Roman Catholic, - </td> - <td> - 47,179 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Wesleyan, - </td> - <td> - 49,159 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Lutheran, - </td> - <td> - 23,328 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Presbyterian, - </td> - <td> - 18,206 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Congregationalist, - </td> - <td> - 11,882 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Bible Christian, - </td> - <td> - 15,762 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Primitive Methodist, - </td> - <td> - 11,654 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Baptist, - </td> - <td> - 17,547 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Christian Brethren, - </td> - <td> - 465 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Methodist New Connexion, - </td> - <td> - 39 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Unitarian, - </td> - <td> - 688 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Church of Christ, - </td> - <td> - 3,367 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Society of Friends, - </td> - <td> - 100 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Salvation Army, - </td> - <td> - 4,356 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - New Jerusalem Church, - </td> - <td> - 168 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Jews, - </td> - <td> - 840 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Protestants (undefined), - </td> - <td> - 5,532 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Mohammedans, - </td> - <td> - 299 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Confucians, etc, - </td> - <td> - 3,884 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Other religions, - </td> - <td> - 1,719 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Object, - </td> - <td> - 6,940 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Not stated, - </td> - <td> - 8,046 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Total, - </td> - <td> - 320,431 - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - The item in the above list "Other religions" includes the following as - returned: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - Agnostics, Atheists, Believers in Christ, Buddhists, Calvinists, - Christadelphians, Christians, Christ's Chapel, Christian Israelites, - Christian Socialists, Church of God, Cosmopolitans, Deists, - Evangelists, Exclusive Brethren, Free Church, Free Methodists, - Freethinkers, Followers of Christ, Gospel Meetings, Greek Church, - Infidels, Maronites, Memnonists, Moravians, Mormons, Naturalists, - Orthodox, Others (indefinite), Pagans, Pantheists, Plymouth Brethren, - Rationalists, Reformers, Secularists, Seventh-day Adventists, Shaker, - Shintoists, Spiritualists, Theosophists, Town (City) Mission, Welsh - Church, Huguenot, Hussite, Zoroastrians, Zwinglian, - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - About 64 roads to the other world. You see how healthy the religious - atmosphere is. Anything can live in it. Agnostics, Atheists, Freethinkers, - Infidels, Mormons, Pagans, Indefinites they are all there. And all the big - sects of the world can do more than merely live in it: they can spread, - flourish, prosper. All except the Spiritualists and the Theosophists. That - is the most curious feature of this curious table. What is the matter with - the specter? Why do they puff him away? He is a welcome toy everywhere - else in the world.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p183.jpg (24K)" src="images/p183.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch19" id="ch19"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XIX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Pity is for the living, Envy is for the dead.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The successor of the sheet-iron hamlet of the mangrove marshes has that - other Australian specialty, the Botanical Gardens. We cannot have these - paradises. The best we could do would be to cover a vast acreage under - glass and apply steam heat. But it would be inadequate, the lacks would - still be so great: the confined sense, the sense of suffocation, the - atmospheric dimness, the sweaty heat—these would all be there, in - place of the Australian openness to the sky, the sunshine and the breeze. - Whatever will grow under glass with us will flourish rampantly out of - doors in Australia.—[The greatest heat in Victoria, that there is an - authoritative record of, was at Sandhurst, in January, 1862. The - thermometer then registered 117 degrees in the shade. In January, 1880, - the heat at Adelaide, South Australia, was 172 degrees in the sun.] - </p> - <p> - When the white man came the continent was nearly as poor, in variety of - vegetation, as the desert of Sahara; now it has everything that grows on - the earth. In fact, not Australia only, but all Australasia has levied - tribute upon the flora of the rest of the world; and wherever one goes the - results appear, in gardens private and public, in the woodsy walls of the - highways, and in even the forests. If you see a curious or beautiful tree - or bush or flower, and ask about it, the people, answering, usually name a - foreign country as the place of its origin—India, Africa, Japan, - China, England, America, Java, Sumatra, New Guinea, Polynesia, and so on. - </p> - <p> - In the Zoological Gardens of Adelaide I saw the only laughing jackass that - ever showed any disposition to be courteous to me. This one opened his - head wide and laughed like a demon; or like a maniac who was consumed with - humorous scorn over a cheap and degraded pun. It was a very human laugh. - If he had been out of sight I could have believed that the laughter came - from a man. It is an odd-looking bird, with a head and beak that are much - too large for its body. In time man will exterminate the rest of the wild - creatures of Australia, but this one will probably survive, for man is his - friend and lets him alone. Man always has a good reason for his charities - towards wild things, human or animal when he has any. In this case the - bird is spared because he kills snakes. If L. J. will take my advice he - will not kill all of them.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p185.jpg (47K)" src="images/p185.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In that garden I also saw the wild Australian dog—the dingo. He was - a beautiful creature—shapely, graceful, a little wolfish in some of - his aspects, but with a most friendly eye and sociable disposition. The - dingo is not an importation; he was present in great force when the whites - first came to the continent. It may be that he is the oldest dog in the - universe; his origin, his descent, the place where his ancestors first - appeared, are as unknown and as untraceable as are the camel's. He is the - most precious dog in the world, for he does not bark. But in an evil hour - he got to raiding the sheep-runs to appease his hunger, and that sealed - his doom. He is hunted, now, just as if he were a wolf. He has been - sentenced to extermination, and the sentence will be carried out. This is - all right, and not objectionable. The world was made for man—the - white man.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p187.jpg (66K)" src="images/p187.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - South Australia is confusingly named. All of the colonies have a southern - exposure except one—Queensland. Properly speaking, South Australia - is middle Australia. It extends straight up through the center of the - continent like the middle board in a center-table. It is 2,000 miles high, - from south to north, and about a third as wide. A wee little spot down in - its southeastern corner contains eight or nine-tenths of its population; - the other one or two-tenths are elsewhere—as elsewhere as they could - be in the United States with all the country between Denver and Chicago, - and Canada and the Gulf of Mexico to scatter over. There is plenty of - room. - </p> - <p> - A telegraph line stretches straight up north through that 2,000 miles of - wilderness and desert from Adelaide to Port Darwin on the edge of the - upper ocean. South Australia built the line; and did it in 1871-2 when her - population numbered only 185,000. It was a great work; for there were no - roads, no paths; 1,300 miles of the route had been traversed but once - before by white men; provisions, wire, and poles had to be carried over - immense stretches of desert; wells had to be dug along the route to supply - the men and cattle with water. - </p> - <p> - A cable had been previously laid from Port Darwin to Java and thence to - India, and there was telegraphic communication with England from India. - And so, if Adelaide could make connection with Port Darwin it meant - connection with the whole world. The enterprise succeeded. One could watch - the London markets daily, now; the profit to the wool-growers of Australia - was instant and enormous. - </p> - <p> - A telegram from Melbourne to San Francisco covers approximately 20,000 - miles—the equivalent of five-sixths of the way around the globe. It - has to halt along the way a good many times and be repeated; still, but - little time is lost. These halts, and the distances between them, are here - tabulated.—[From "Round the Empire." (George R. Parkin), all but the - last two.] - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - - </td> - <td> - Miles. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Melbourne-Mount Gambier, - </td> - <td> - 300 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Mount Gambier-Adelaide, - </td> - <td> - 270 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Adelaide-Port Augusta, - </td> - <td> - 200 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Port Augusta-Alice Springs, - </td> - <td> - 1,036 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Alice Springs-Port Darwin, - </td> - <td> - 898 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Port Darwin-Banjoewangie, - </td> - <td> - 1,150 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Banjoewangie-Batavia, - </td> - <td> - 480 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Batavia-Singapore, - </td> - <td> - 553 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Singapore-Penang, - </td> - <td> - 399 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Penang-Madras, - </td> - <td> - 1,280 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Madras-Bombay, - </td> - <td> - 650 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Bombay-Aden, - </td> - <td> - 1,662 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Aden-Suez, - </td> - <td> - 1,346 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Suez-Alexandria, - </td> - <td> - 224 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Alexandria-Malta, - </td> - <td> - 828 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Malta-Gibraltar, - </td> - <td> - 1,008 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Gibraltar-Falmouth, - </td> - <td> - 1,061 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - Falmouth-London, - </td> - <td> - 350 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - London-New York, - </td> - <td> - 2,500 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> - New York-San Francisco, - </td> - <td> - 3,500 - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - I was in Adelaide again, some months later, and saw the multitudes gather - in the neighboring city of Glenelg to commemorate the Reading of the - Proclamation—in 1836—which founded the Province. If I have at - any time called it a Colony, I withdraw the discourtesy. It is not a - Colony, it is a Province; and officially so. Moreover, it is the only one - so named in Australasia. There was great enthusiasm; it was the Province's - national holiday, its Fourth of July, so to speak. It is the pre-eminent - holiday; and that is saying much, in a country where they seem to have a - most un-English mania for holidays. Mainly they are workingmen's holidays; - for in South Australia the workingman is sovereign; his vote is the desire - of the politician—indeed, it is the very breath of the politician's - being; the parliament exists to deliver the will of the workingman, and - the government exists to execute it. The workingman is a great power - everywhere in Australia, but South Australia is his paradise. He has had a - hard time in this world, and has earned a paradise. I am glad he has found - it. The holidays there are frequent enough to be bewildering to the - stranger. I tried to get the hang of the system, but was not able to do - it. - </p> - <p> - You have seen that the Province is tolerant, religious-wise. It is so - politically, also. One of the speakers at the Commemoration banquet—the - Minister of Public Works-was an American, born and reared in New England. - There is nothing narrow about the Province, politically, or in any other - way that I know of. Sixty-four religions and a Yankee cabinet minister. No - amount of horse-racing can damn this community. - </p> - <p> - The mean temperature of the Province is 62 deg. The death-rate is 13 in - the 1,000—about half what it is in the city of New York, I should - think, and New York is a healthy city. Thirteen is the death-rate for the - average citizen of the Province, but there seems to be no death-rate for - the old people. There were people at the Commemoration banquet who could - remember Cromwell. There were six of them. These Old Settlers had all been - present at the original Reading of the Proclamation, in 1836. They showed - signs of the blightings and blastings of time, in their outward aspect, - but they were young within; young and cheerful, and ready to talk; ready - to talk, and talk all you wanted; in their turn, and out of it. They were - down for six speeches, and they made 42. The governor and the cabinet and - the mayor were down for 42 speeches, and they made 6. They have splendid - grit, the Old Settlers, splendid staying power. But they do not hear well, - and when they see the mayor going through motions which they recognize as - the introducing of a speaker, they think they are the one, and they all - get up together, and begin to respond, in the most animated way; and the - more the mayor gesticulates, and shouts "Sit down! Sit down!" the more - they take it for applause, and the more excited and reminiscent and - enthusiastic they get; and next, when they see the whole house laughing - and crying, three of them think it is about the bitter old-time hardships - they are describing, and the other three think the laughter is caused by - the jokes they have been uncorking—jokes of the vintage of 1836—and - then the way they do go on! And finally when ushers come and plead, and - beg, and gently and reverently crowd them down into their seats, they say, - "Oh, I'm not tired—I could bang along a week!" and they sit there - looking simple and childlike, and gentle, and proud of their oratory, and - wholly unconscious of what is going on at the other end of the room. And - so one of the great dignitaries gets a chance, and begins his carefully - prepared speech, impressively and with solemnity— - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "When we, now great and prosperous and powerful, bow our heads in - reverent wonder in the contemplation of those sublimities of energy, of - wisdom, of forethought, of——" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Up come the immortal six again, in a body, with a joyous "Hey, I've - thought of another one!" and at it they go, with might and main, hearing - not a whisper of the pandemonium that salutes them, but taking all the - visible violences for applause, as before, and hammering joyously away - till the imploring ushers pray them into their seats again. And a pity, - too; for those lovely old boys did so enjoy living their heroic youth - over, in these days of their honored antiquity; and certainly the things - they had to tell were usually worth the telling and the hearing.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p190.jpg (52K)" src="images/p190.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It was a stirring spectacle; stirring in more ways than one, for it was - amazingly funny, and at the same time deeply pathetic; for they had seen - so much, these time-worn veterans, and had suffered so much; and had built - so strongly and well, and laid the foundations of their commonwealth so - deep, in liberty and tolerance; and had lived to see the structure rise to - such state and dignity and hear themselves so praised for their honorable - work. - </p> - <p> - One of these old gentlemen told me some things of interest afterward; - things about the aboriginals, mainly. He thought them intelligent—remarkably - so in some directions—and he said that along with their unpleasant - qualities they had some exceedingly good ones; and he considered it a - great pity that the race had died out. He instanced their invention of the - boomerang and the "weet-weet" as evidences of their brightness; and as - another evidence of it he said he had never seen a white man who had - cleverness enough to learn to do the miracles with those two toys that the - aboriginals achieved. He said that even the smartest whites had been - obliged to confess that they could not learn the trick of the boomerang in - perfection; that it had possibilities which they could not master. The - white man could not control its motions, could not make it obey him; but - the aboriginal could. He told me some wonderful things—some almost - incredible things—which he had seen the blacks do with the boomerang - and the weet-weet. They have been confirmed to me since by other early - settlers and by trustworthy books.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p194.jpg (37K)" src="images/p194.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It is contended—and may be said to be conceded—that the - boomerang was known to certain savage tribes in Europe in Roman times. In - support of this, Virgil and two other Roman poets are quoted. It is also - contended that it was known to the ancient Egyptians. - </p> - <p> - One of two things, either some one with a boomerang arrived in Australia - in the days of antiquity before European knowledge of the thing had been - lost, or the Australian aboriginal reinvented it. It will take some time - to find out which of these two propositions is the fact. But there is no - hurry.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch20" id="ch20"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It is by the goodness of God that in our country we have those three - unspeakably precious things: freedom of speech, freedom of conscience, and - the prudence never to practice either of them.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - From diary: - </p> - <p> - Mr. G. called. I had not seen him since Nauheim, Germany—several - years ago; the time that the cholera broke out at Hamburg. We talked of - the people we had known there, or had casually met; and G. said: - </p> - <p> - "Do you remember my introducing you to an earl—the Earl of C.?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes. That was the last time I saw you. You and he were in a carriage, - just starting—belated—for the train. I remember it." - </p> - <p> - "I remember it too, because of a thing which happened then which I was not - looking for. He had told me a while before, about a remarkable and - interesting Californian whom he had met and who was a friend of yours, and - said that if he should ever meet you he would ask you for some particulars - about that Californian. The subject was not mentioned that day at Nauheim, - for we were hurrying away, and there was no time; but the thing that - surprised me was this: when I introduced you, you said, 'I am glad to meet - your lordship again.' The 'again' was the surprise. He is a little hard of - hearing, and didn't catch that word, and I thought you hadn't intended - that he should. As we drove off I had only time to say, 'Why, what do you - know about him?' and I understood you to say, 'Oh, nothing, except that he - is the quickest judge of——' Then we were gone, and I didn't - get the rest. I wondered what it was that he was such a quick judge of. I - have thought of it many times since, and still wondered what it could be. - He and I talked it over, but could not guess it out. He thought it must be - fox-hounds or horses, for he is a good judge of those—no one is a - better. But you couldn't know that, because you didn't know him; you had - mistaken him for some one else; it must be that, he said, because he knew - you had never met him before. And of course you hadn't had you?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, I had." - </p> - <p> - "Is that so? Where?" - </p> - <p> - "At a fox-hunt, in England." - </p> - <p> - "How curious that is. Why, he hadn't the least recollection of it. Had you - any conversation with him?" - </p> - <p> - "Some—yes." - </p> - <p> - "Well, it left not the least impression upon him. What did you talk - about?" - </p> - <p> - "About the fox. I think that was all." - </p> - <p> - "Why, that would interest him; that ought to have left an impression. What - did he talk about?" - </p> - <p> - "The fox." - </p> - <p> - "It's very curious. I don't understand it. Did what he said leave an - impression upon you?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes. It showed me that he was a quick judge of—however, I will tell - you all about it, then you will understand. It was a quarter of a century - ago 1873 or '74. I had an American friend in London named F., who was fond - of hunting, and his friends the Blanks invited him and me to come out to a - hunt and be their guests at their country place. In the morning the mounts - were provided, but when I saw the horses I changed my mind and asked - permission to walk. I had never seen an English hunter before, and it - seemed to me that I could hunt a fox safer on the ground. I had always - been diffident about horses, anyway, even those of the common altitudes, - and I did not feel competent to hunt on a horse that went on stilts. So - then Mrs. Blank came to my help and said I could go with her in the - dog-cart and we would drive to a place she knew of, and there we should - have a good glimpse of the hunt as it went by. - </p> - <p> - "When we got to that place I got out and went and leaned my elbows on a - low stone wall which enclosed a turfy and beautiful great field with heavy - wood on all its sides except ours. Mrs. Blank sat in the dog-cart fifty - yards away, which was as near as she could get with the vehicle. I was - full of interest, for I had never seen a fox-hunt. I waited, dreaming and - imagining, in the deep stillness and impressive tranquility which reigned - in that retired spot. Presently, from away off in the forest on the left, - a mellow bugle-note came floating; then all of a sudden a multitude of - dogs burst out of that forest and went tearing by and disappeared in the - forest on the right; there was a pause, and then a cloud of horsemen in - black caps and crimson coats plunged out of the left-hand forest and went - flaming across the field like a prairie-fire, a stirring sight to see. - There was one man ahead of the rest, and he came spurring straight at me. - He was fiercely excited. It was fine to see him ride; he was a master - horseman. He came like a storm till he was within seven feet of me, where - I was leaning on the wall, then he stood his horse straight up in the air - on his hind toe-nails, and shouted like a demon: - </p> - <p> - "'Which way'd the fox go?' - </p> - <p> - "I didn't much like the tone, but I did not let on; for he was excited, - you know. But I was calm; so I said softly, and without acrimony: - </p> - <p> - "'Which fox?'<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p198.jpg (51K)" src="images/p198.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "It seemed to anger him. I don't know why; and he thundered out: - </p> - <p> - "'WHICH fox? Why, THE fox? Which way did the FOX go?' - </p> - <p> - "I said, with great gentleness—even argumentatively: - </p> - <p> - "'If you could be a little more definite—a little less vague—because - I am a stranger, and there are many foxes, as you will know even better - than I, and unless I know which one it is that you desire to identify, and——' - </p> - <p> - "'You're certainly the damdest idiot that has escaped in a thousand - years!' and he snatched his great horse around as easily as I would snatch - a cat, and was away like a hurricane. A very excitable man. - </p> - <p> - "I went back to Mrs. Blank, and she was excited, too—oh, all alive. - She said: - </p> - <p> - "'He spoke to you!—didn't he?' - </p> - <p> - "'Yes, it is what happened.' - </p> - <p> - "'I knew it! I couldn't hear what he said, but I knew he spoke to you! Do - you know who it was? It was Lord C., and he is Master of the Buckhounds! - Tell me—what do you think of him?' - </p> - <p> - "'Him? Well, for sizing-up a stranger, he's got the most sudden and - accurate judgment of any man I ever saw.' - </p> - <p> - "It pleased her. I thought it would." - </p> - <p> - G. got away from Nauheim just in time to escape being shut in by the - quarantine-bars on the frontiers; and so did we, for we left the next day. - But G. had a great deal of trouble in getting by the Italian custom-house, - and we should have fared likewise but for the thoughtfulness of our - consul-general in Frankfort. He introduced me to the Italian - consul-general, and I brought away from that consulate a letter which made - our way smooth. It was a dozen lines merely commending me in a general way - to the courtesies of servants in his Italian Majesty's service, but it was - more powerful than it looked. In addition to a raft of ordinary baggage, - we had six or eight trunks which were filled exclusively with dutiable - stuff—household goods purchased in Frankfort for use in Florence, - where we had taken a house. I was going to ship these through by express; - but at the last moment an order went throughout Germany forbidding the - moving of any parcels by train unless the owner went with them. This was a - bad outlook. We must take these things along, and the delay sure to be - caused by the examination of them in the custom-house might lose us our - train. I imagined all sorts of terrors, and enlarged them steadily as we - approached the Italian frontier. We were six in number, clogged with all - that baggage, and I was courier for the party—the most incapable one - they ever employed. - </p> - <p> - We arrived, and pressed with the crowd into the immense custom-house, and - the usual worries began; everybody crowding to the counter and begging to - have his baggage examined first, and all hands clattering and chattering - at once. It seemed to me that I could do nothing; it would be better to - give it all up and go away and leave the baggage. I couldn't speak the - language; I should never accomplish anything. Just then a tall handsome - man in a fine uniform was passing by and I knew he must be the - station-master—and that reminded me of my letter. I ran to him and - put it into his hands. He took it out of the envelope, and the moment his - eye caught the royal coat of arms printed at its top, he took off his cap - and made a beautiful bow to me, and said in English: - </p> - <p> - "Which is your baggage? Please show it to me." - </p> - <p> - I showed him the mountain. Nobody was disturbing it; nobody was interested - in it; all the family's attempts to get attention to it had failed—except - in the case of one of the trunks containing the dutiable goods. It was - just being opened. My officer said: - </p> - <p> - "There, let that alone! Lock it. Now chalk it. Chalk all of the lot. Now - please come and show me the hand-baggage." - </p> - <p> - He plowed through the waiting crowd, I following, to the counter, and he - gave orders again, in his emphatic military way: - </p> - <p> - "Chalk these. Chalk all of them." - </p> - <p> - Then he took off his cap and made that beautiful bow again, and went his - way. By this time these attentions had attracted the wonder of that acre - of passengers, and the whisper had gone around that the royal family were - present getting their baggage chalked; and as we passed down in review on - our way to the door, I was conscious of a pervading atmosphere of envy - which gave me deep satisfaction. - </p> - <p> - But soon there was an accident. My overcoat pockets were stuffed with - German cigars and linen packages of American smoking tobacco, and a porter - was following us around with this overcoat on his arm, and gradually - getting it upside down. Just as I, in the rear of my family, moved by the - sentinels at the door, about three hatfuls of the tobacco tumbled out on - the floor. One of the soldiers pounced upon it, gathered it up in his - arms, pointed back whence I had come, and marched me ahead of him past - that long wall of passengers again—he chattering and exulting like a - devil, they smiling in peaceful joy, and I trying to look as if my pride - was not hurt, and as if I did not mind being brought to shame before these - pleased people who had so lately envied me. But at heart I was cruelly - humbled.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p203.jpg (54K)" src="images/p203.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - When I had been marched two-thirds of the long distance and the misery of - it was at the worst, the stately station-master stepped out from - somewhere, and the soldier left me and darted after him and overtook him; - and I could see by the soldier's excited gestures that he was betraying to - him the whole shabby business. The station-master was plainly very angry. - He came striding down toward me, and when he was come near he began to - pour out a stream of indignant Italian; then suddenly took off his hat and - made that beautiful bow and said: - </p> - <p> - "Oh, it is you! I beg a thousands pardons! This idiot here—-" He - turned to the exulting soldier and burst out with a flood of white-hot - Italian lava, and the next moment he was bowing, and the soldier and I - were moving in procession again—he in the lead and ashamed, this - time, I with my chin up. And so we marched by the crowd of fascinated - passengers, and I went forth to the train with the honors of war. Tobacco - and all.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p205.jpg (17K)" src="images/p205.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch21" id="ch21"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Man will do many things to get himself loved, he will do all things to - get himself envied.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Before I saw Australia I had never heard of the "weet-weet" at all. I met - but few men who had seen it thrown—at least I met but few who - mentioned having seen it thrown. Roughly described, it is a fat wooden - cigar with its butt-end fastened to a flexible twig. The whole thing is - only a couple of feet long, and weighs less than two ounces. This feather—so - to call it—is not thrown through the air, but is flung with an - underhanded throw and made to strike the ground a little way in front of - the thrower; then it glances and makes a long skip; glances again, skips - again, and again and again, like the flat stone which a boy sends skating - over the water. The water is smooth, and the stone has a good chance; so a - strong man may make it travel fifty or seventy-five yards; but the - weet-weet has no such good chance, for it strikes sand, grass, and earth - in its course. Yet an expert aboriginal has sent it a measured distance of - two hundred and twenty yards. It would have gone even further but it - encountered rank ferns and underwood on its passage and they damaged its - speed. Two hundred and twenty yards; and so weightless a toy—a mouse - on the end of a bit of wire, in effect; and not sailing through the - accommodating air, but encountering grass and sand and stuff at every - jump. It looks wholly impossible; but Mr. Brough Smyth saw the feat and - did the measuring, and set down the facts in his book about aboriginal - life, which he wrote by command of the Victorian Government. - </p> - <p> - What is the secret of the feat? No one explains. It cannot be physical - strength, for that could not drive such a feather-weight any distance. It - must be art. But no one explains what the art of it is; nor how it gets - around that law of nature which says you shall not throw any two-ounce - thing 220 yards, either through the air or bumping along the ground. Rev. - J. G. Woods says: - </p> - <p> - "The distance to which the weet-weet or kangaroo-rat can be thrown is - truly astonishing. I have seen an Australian stand at one side of - Kennington Oval and throw the kangaroo rat completely across it." (Width - of Kennington Oval not stated.) "It darts through the air with the sharp - and menacing hiss of a rifle-ball, its greatest height from the ground - being some seven or eight feet . . . . . . When properly thrown it looks - just like a living animal leaping along . . . . . . Its movements have a - wonderful resemblance to the long leaps of a kangaroo-rat fleeing in - alarm, with its long tail trailing behind it." - </p> - <p> - The Old Settler said that he had seen distances made by the weet-weet, in - the early days, which almost convinced him that it was as extraordinary an - instrument as the boomerang. - </p> - <p> - There must have been a large distribution of acuteness among those naked - skinny aboriginals, or they couldn't have been such unapproachable - trackers and boomerangers and weet-weeters. It must have been - race-aversion that put upon them a good deal of the low-rate intellectual - reputation which they bear and have borne this long time in the world's - estimate of them. - </p> - <p> - They were lazy—always lazy. Perhaps that was their trouble. It is a - killing defect. Surely they could have invented and built a competent - house, but they didn't. And they could have invented and developed the - agricultural arts, but they didn't. They went naked and houseless, and - lived on fish and grubs and worms and wild fruits, and were just plain - savages, for all their smartness. - </p> - <p> - With a country as big as the United States to live and multiply in, and - with no epidemic diseases among them till the white man came with those - and his other appliances of civilization, it is quite probable that there - was never a day in his history when he could muster 100,000 of his race in - all Australia. He diligently and deliberately kept population down by - infanticide—largely; but mainly by certain other methods. He did not - need to practise these artificialities any more after the white man came. - The white man knew ways of keeping down population which were worth - several of his. The white man knew ways of reducing a native population 80 - percent. in 20 years. The native had never seen anything as fine as that - before.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p208.jpg (42K)" src="images/p208.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - For example, there is the case of the country now called Victoria—a - country eighty times as large as Rhode Island, as I have already said. By - the best official guess there were 4,500 aboriginals in it when the whites - came along in the middle of the 'Thirties. Of these, 1,000 lived in - Gippsland, a patch of territory the size of fifteen or sixteen Rhode - Islands: they did not diminish as fast as some of the other communities; - indeed, at the end of forty years there were still 200 of them left. The - Geelong tribe diminished more satisfactorily: from 173 persons it faded to - 34 in twenty years; at the end of another twenty the tribe numbered one - person altogether. The two Melbourne tribes could muster almost 300 when - the white man came; they could muster but twenty, thirty-seven years - later, in 1875. In that year there were still odds and ends of tribes - scattered about the colony of Victoria, but I was told that natives of - full blood are very scarce now. It is said that the aboriginals continue - in some force in the huge territory called Queensland. - </p> - <p> - The early whites were not used to savages. They could not understand the - primary law of savage life: that if a man do you a wrong, his whole tribe - is responsible—each individual of it—and you may take your - change out of any individual of it, without bothering to seek out the - guilty one. When a white killed an aboriginal, the tribe applied the - ancient law, and killed the first white they came across. To the whites - this was a monstrous thing. Extermination seemed to be the proper medicine - for such creatures as this. They did not kill all the blacks, but they - promptly killed enough of them to make their own persons safe. From the - dawn of civilization down to this day the white man has always used that - very precaution. Mrs. Campbell Praed lived in Queensland, as a child, in - the early days, and in her "Sketches of Australian life," we get informing - pictures of the early struggles of the white and the black to reform each - other. - </p> - <p> - Speaking of pioneer days in the mighty wilderness of Queensland, Mrs. - Praed says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At first the natives retreated before the whites; and, except that they - every now and then speared a beast in one of the herds, gave little - cause for uneasiness. But, as the number of squatters increased, each - one taking up miles of country and bringing two or three men in his - train, so that shepherds' huts and stockmen's camps lay far apart, and - defenseless in the midst of hostile tribes, the Blacks' depredations - became more frequent and murder was no unusual event. - </p> - <p> - "The loneliness of the Australian bush can hardly be painted in words. - Here extends mile after mile of primeval forest where perhaps foot of - white man has never trod—interminable vistas where the eucalyptus - trees rear their lofty trunks and spread forth their lanky limbs, from - which the red gum oozes and hangs in fantastic pendants like crimson - stalactites; ravines along the sides of which the long-bladed grass - grows rankly; level untimbered plains alternating with undulating tracts - of pasture, here and there broken by a stony ridge, steep gully, or - dried-up creek. All wild, vast and desolate; all the same monotonous - gray coloring, except where the wattle, when in blossom, shows patches - of feathery gold, or a belt of scrub lies green, glossy, and - impenetrable as Indian jungle. - </p> - <p> - "The solitude seems intensified by the strange sounds of reptiles, - birds, and insects, and by the absence of larger creatures; of which in - the day-time, the only audible signs are the stampede of a herd of - kangaroo, or the rustle of a wallabi, or a dingo stirring the grass as - it creeps to its lair. But there are the whirring of locusts, the - demoniac chuckle of the laughing jack-ass, the screeching of cockatoos - and parrots, the hissing of the frilled lizard, and the buzzing of - innumerable insects hidden under the dense undergrowth. And then at - night, the melancholy wailing of the curlews, the dismal howling of - dingoes, the discordant croaking of tree-frogs, might well shake the - nerves of the solitary watcher." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That is the theater for the drama. When you comprehend one or two other - details, you will perceive how well suited for trouble it was, and how - loudly it invited it. The cattlemen's stations were scattered over that - profound wilderness miles and miles apart—at each station half a - dozen persons. There was a plenty of cattle, the black natives were always - ill-nourished and hungry. The land belonged to them. The whites had not - bought it, and couldn't buy it; for the tribes had no chiefs, nobody in - authority, nobody competent to sell and convey; and the tribes themselves - had no comprehension of the idea of transferable ownership of land. The - ousted owners were despised by the white interlopers, and this opinion was - not hidden under a bushel. More promising materials for a tragedy could - not have been collated. Let Mrs. Praed speak: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At Nie Nie station, one dark night, the unsuspecting hut-keeper, - having, as he believed, secured himself against assault, was lying - wrapped in his blankets sleeping profoundly. The Blacks crept stealthily - down the chimney and battered in his skull while he slept." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - One could guess the whole drama from that little text. The curtain was up. - It would not fall until the mastership of one party or the other was - determined—and permanently: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "There was treachery on both sides. The Blacks killed the Whites when - they found them defenseless, and the Whites slew the Blacks in a - wholesale and promiscuous fashion which offended against my childish - sense of justice. - </p> - <p> - "They were regarded as little above the level of brutes, and in some - cases were destroyed like vermin. - </p> - <p> - "Here is an instance. A squatter, whose station was surrounded by - Blacks, whom he suspected to be hostile and from whom he feared an - attack, parleyed with them from his house-door. He told them it was - Christmas-time—a time at which all men, black or white, feasted; - that there were flour, sugar-plums, good things in plenty in the store, - and that he would make for them such a pudding as they had never dreamed - of—a great pudding of which all might eat and be filled. The - Blacks listened and were lost. The pudding was made and distributed. - Next morning there was howling in the camp, for it had been sweetened - with sugar and arsenic!" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p211.jpg (85K)" src="images/p211.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The white man's spirit was right, but his method was wrong. His spirit was - the spirit which the civilized white has always exhibited toward the - savage, but the use of poison was a departure from custom. True, it was - merely a technical departure, not a real one; still, it was a departure, - and therefore a mistake, in my opinion. It was better, kinder, swifter, - and much more humane than a number of the methods which have been - sanctified by custom, but that does not justify its employment. That is, - it does not wholly justify it. Its unusual nature makes it stand out and - attract an amount of attention which it is not entitled to. It takes hold - upon morbid imaginations and they work it up into a sort of exhibition of - cruelty, and this smirches the good name of our civilization, whereas one - of the old harsher methods would have had no such effect because usage has - made those methods familiar to us and innocent. In many countries we have - chained the savage and starved him to death; and this we do not care for, - because custom has inured us to it; yet a quick death by poison is loving - kindness to it. In many countries we have burned the savage at the stake; - and this we do not care for, because custom has inured us to it; yet a - quick death is loving kindness to it. In more than one country we have - hunted the savage and his little children and their mother with dogs and - guns through the woods and swamps for an afternoon's sport, and filled the - region with happy laughter over their sprawling and stumbling flight, and - their wild supplications for mercy; but this method we do not mind, - because custom has inured us to it; yet a quick death by poison is loving - kindness to it. In many countries we have taken the savage's land from - him, and made him our slave, and lashed him every day, and broken his - pride, and made death his only friend, and overworked him till he dropped - in his tracks; and this we do not care for, because custom has inured us - to it; yet a quick death by poison is loving kindness to it. In the - Matabeleland today—why, there we are confining ourselves to - sanctified custom, we Rhodes-Beit millionaires in South Africa and Dukes - in London; and nobody cares, because we are used to the old holy customs, - and all we ask is that no notice—inviting new ones shall be intruded - upon the attention of our comfortable consciences. Mrs. Praed says of the - poisoner, "That squatter deserves to have his name handed down to the - contempt of posterity." - </p> - <p> - I am sorry to hear her say that. I myself blame him for one thing, and - severely, but I stop there. I blame him for, the indiscretion of - introducing a novelty which was calculated to attract attention to our - civilization. There was no occasion to do that. It was his duty, and it is - every loyal man's duty to protect that heritage in every way he can; and - the best way to do that is to attract attention elsewhere. The squatter's - judgment was bad—that is plain; but his heart was right. He is - almost the only pioneering representative of civilization in history who - has risen above the prejudices of his caste and his heredity and tried to - introduce the element of mercy into the superior race's dealings with the - savage. His name is lost, and it is a pity; for it deserves to be handed - down to posterity with homage and reverence. - </p> - <p> - This paragraph is from a London journal: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "To learn what France is doing to spread the blessings of civilization - in her distant dependencies we may turn with advantage to New Caledonia. - With a view to attracting free settlers to that penal colony, M. - Feillet, the Governor, forcibly expropriated the Kanaka cultivators from - the best of their plantations, with a derisory compensation, in spite of - the protests of the Council General of the island. Such immigrants as - could be induced to cross the seas thus found themselves in possession - of thousands of coffee, cocoa, banana, and bread-fruit trees, the - raising of which had cost the wretched natives years of toil whilst the - latter had a few five-franc pieces to spend in the liquor stores of - Noumea." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - You observe the combination? It is robbery, humiliation, and slow, slow - murder, through poverty and the white man's whisky. The savage's gentle - friend, the savage's noble friend, the only magnanimous and unselfish - friend the savage has ever had, was not there with the merciful swift - release of his poisoned pudding. - </p> - <p> - There are many humorous things in the world; among them the white man's - notion that he is less savage than the other savages.—[See Chapter - on Tasmania, post.]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch22" id="ch22"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Nothing is so ignorant as a man's left hand, except a lady's watch.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - You notice that Mrs. Praed knows her art. She can place a thing before you - so that you can see it. She is not alone in that. Australia is fertile in - writers whose books are faithful mirrors of the life of the country and of - its history. The materials were surprisingly rich, both in quality and in - mass, and Marcus Clarke, Raolph Boldrewood, Gordon, Kendall, and the - others, have built out of them a brilliant and vigorous literature, and - one which must endure. Materials—there is no end to them! Why, a - literature might be made out of the aboriginal all by himself, his - character and ways are so freckled with varieties—varieties not - staled by familiarity, but new to us. You do not need to invent any - picturesquenesses; whatever you want in that line he can furnish you; and - they will not be fancies and doubtful, but realities and authentic. In his - history, as preserved by the white man's official records, he is - everything—everything that a human creature can be. He covers the - entire ground. He is a coward—there are a thousand fact to prove it. - He is brave—there are a thousand facts to prove it. He is - treacherous—oh, beyond imagination! he is faithful, loyal, true—the - white man's records supply you with a harvest of instances of it that are - noble, worshipful, and pathetically beautiful. He kills the starving - stranger who comes begging for food and shelter there is proof of it. He - succors, and feeds, and guides to safety, to-day, the lost stranger who - fired on him only yesterday—there is proof of it. He takes his - reluctant bride by force, he courts her with a club, then loves her - faithfully through a long life—it is of record. He gathers to - himself another wife by the same processes, beats and bangs her as a daily - diversion, and by and by lays down his life in defending her from some - outside harm—it is of record. He will face a hundred hostiles to - rescue one of his children, and will kill another of his children because - the family is large enough without it. His delicate stomach turns, at - certain details of the white man's food; but he likes over-ripe fish, and - brazed dog, and cat, and rat, and will eat his own uncle with relish. He - is a sociable animal, yet he turns aside and hides behind his shield when - his mother-in-law goes by. He is childishly afraid of ghosts and other - trivialities that menace his soul, but dread of physical pain is a - weakness which he is not acquainted with. He knows all the great and many - of the little constellations, and has names for them; he has a - symbol-writing by means of which he can convey messages far and wide among - the tribes; he has a correct eye for form and expression, and draws a good - picture; he can track a fugitive by delicate traces which the white man's - eye cannot discern, and by methods which the finest white intelligence - cannot master; he makes a missile which science itself cannot duplicate - without the model—if with it; a missile whose secret baffled and - defeated the searchings and theorizings of the white mathematicians for - seventy years; and by an art all his own he performs miracles with it - which the white man cannot approach untaught, nor parallel after teaching. - Within certain limits this savage's intellect is the alertest and the - brightest known to history or tradition; and yet the poor creature was - never able to invent a counting system that would reach above five, nor a - vessel that he could boil water in. He is the prize-curiosity of all the - races. To all intents and purposes he is dead—in the body; but he - has features that will live in literature. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Philip Chauncy, an officer of the Victorian Government, contributed to - its archives a report of his personal observations of the aboriginals - which has in it some things which I wish to condense slightly and insert - here. He speaks of the quickness of their eyes and the accuracy of their - judgment of the direction of approaching missiles as being quite - extraordinary, and of the answering suppleness and accuracy of limb and - muscle in avoiding the missile as being extraordinary also. He has seen an - aboriginal stand as a target for cricket-balls thrown with great force ten - or fifteen yards, by professional bowlers, and successfully dodge them or - parry them with his shield during about half an hour. One of those balls, - properly placed, could have killed him; "Yet he depended, with the utmost - self-possession, on the quickness of his eye and his agility." - </p> - <p> - The shield was the customary war-shield of his race, and would not be a - protection to you or to me. It is no broader than a stovepipe, and is - about as long as a man's arm. The opposing surface is not flat, but slopes - away from the centerline like a boat's bow. The difficulty about a - cricket-ball that has been thrown with a scientific "twist" is, that it - suddenly changes its course when it is close to its target and comes - straight for the mark when apparently it was going overhead or to one - side. I should not be able to protect myself from such balls for - half-an-hour, or less. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Chauncy once saw "a little native man" throw a cricket-ball 119 yards. - This is said to beat the English professional record by thirteen yards. - </p> - <p> - We have all seen the circus-man bound into the air from a spring-board and - make a somersault over eight horses standing side by side. Mr. Chauncy saw - an aboriginal do it over eleven; and was assured that he had sometimes - done it over fourteen. But what is that to this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "I saw the same man leap from the ground, and in going over he dipped - his head, unaided by his hands, into a hat placed in an inverted - position on the top of the head of another man sitting upright on - horseback—both man and horse being of the average size. The native - landed on the other side of the horse with the hat fairly on his head. - The prodigious height of the leap, and the precision with which it was - taken so as to enable him to dip his head into the hat, exceeded any - feat of the kind I have ever beheld." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - I should think so! On board a ship lately I saw a young Oxford athlete run - four steps and spring into the air and squirm his hips by a side-twist - over a bar that was five and one-half feet high; but he could not have - stood still and cleared a bar that was four feet high. I know this, - because I tried it myself. - </p> - <p> - One can see now where the kangaroo learned its art. - </p> - <p> - Sir George Grey and Mr. Eyre testify that the natives dug wells fourteen - or fifteen feet deep and two feet in diameter at the bore—dug them - in the sand—wells that were "quite circular, carried straight down, - and the work beautifully executed." - </p> - <p> - Their tools were their hands and feet. How did they throw sand out from - such a depth? How could they stoop down and get it, with only two feet of - space to stoop in? How did they keep that sand-pipe from caving in on - them? I do not know. Still, they did manage those seeming impossibilities. - Swallowed the sand, may be. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Chauncy speaks highly of the patience and skill and alert intelligence - of the native huntsman when he is stalking the emu, the kangaroo, and - other game: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "As he walks through the bush his step is light, elastic, and noiseless; - every track on the earth catches his keen eye; a leaf, or fragment of a - stick turned, or a blade of grass recently bent by the tread of one of - the lower animals, instantly arrests his attention; in fact, nothing - escapes his quick and powerful sight on the ground, in the trees, or in - the distance, which may supply him with a meal or warn him of danger. A - little examination of the trunk of a tree which may be nearly covered - with the scratches of opossums ascending and descending is sufficient to - inform him whether one went up the night before without coming down - again or not." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p218.jpg (48K)" src="images/p218.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Fennimore Cooper lost his chance. He would have known how to value these - people. He wouldn't have traded the dullest of them for the brightest - Mohawk he ever invented. - </p> - <p> - All savages draw outline pictures upon bark; but the resemblances are not - close, and expression is usually lacking. But the Australian aboriginal's - pictures of animals were nicely accurate in form, attitude, carriage; and - he put spirit into them, and expression. And his pictures of white people - and natives were pretty nearly as good as his pictures of the other - animals. He dressed his whites in the fashion of their day, both the - ladies and the gentlemen. As an untaught wielder of the pencil it is not - likely that he has his equal among savage people. - </p> - <p> - His place in art—as to drawing, not color-work—is well up, all - things considered. His art is not to be classified with savage art at all, - but on a plane two degrees above it and one degree above the lowest plane - of civilized art. To be exact, his place in art is between Botticelli and - De Maurier. That is to say, he could not draw as well as De Maurier but - better than Boticelli. In feeling, he resembles both; also in grouping and - in his preferences in the matter of subjects. His "corrobboree" of the - Australian wilds reappears in De Maurier's Belgravian ballrooms, with - clothes and the smirk of civilization added; Botticelli's "Spring" is the - "corrobboree" further idealized, but with fewer clothes and more smirk. - And well enough as to intention, but—my word! - </p> - <p> - The aboriginal can make a fire by friction. I have tried that. - </p> - <p> - All savages are able to stand a good deal of physical pain. The Australian - aboriginal has this quality in a well-developed degree. Do not read the - following instances if horrors are not pleasant to you. They were recorded - by the Rev. Henry N. Wolloston, of Melbourne, who had been a surgeon - before he became a clergyman: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - 1. "In the summer of 1852 I started on horseback from Albany, King - George's Sound, to visit at Cape Riche, accompanied by a native on foot. - We traveled about forty miles the first day, then camped by a water-hole - for the night. After cooking and eating our supper, I observed the - native, who had said nothing to me on the subject, collect the hot - embers of the fire together, and deliberately place his right foot in - the glowing mass for a moment, then suddenly withdraw it, stamping on - the ground and uttering a long-drawn guttural sound of mingled pain and - satisfaction. This operation he repeated several times. On my inquiring - the meaning of his strange conduct, he only said, 'Me carpenter-make - 'em' ('I am mending my foot'), and then showed me his charred great toe, - the nail of which had been torn off by a tea-tree stump, in which it had - been caught during the journey, and the pain of which he had borne with - stoical composure until the evening, when he had an opportunity of - cauterizing the wound in the primitive manner above described." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And he proceeded on the journey the next day, "as if nothing had happened"—and - walked thirty miles. It was a strange idea, to keep a surgeon and then do - his own surgery. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - 2. "A native about twenty-five years of age once applied to me, as a - doctor, to extract the wooden barb of a spear, which, during a fight in - the bush some four months previously, had entered his chest, just - missing the heart, and penetrated the viscera to a considerable depth. - The spear had been cut off, leaving the barb behind, which continued to - force its way by muscular action gradually toward the back; and when I - examined him I could feel a hard substance between the ribs below the - left blade-bone. I made a deep incision, and with a pair of forceps - extracted the barb, which was made, as usual, of hard wood about four - inches long and from half an inch to an inch thick. It was very smooth, - and partly digested, so to speak, by the maceration to which it had been - exposed during its four months' journey through the body. The wound made - by the spear had long since healed, leaving only a small cicatrix; and - after the operation, which the native bore without flinching, he - appeared to suffer no pain. Indeed, judging from his good state of - health, the presence of the foreign matter did not materially annoy him. - He was perfectly well in a few days." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - But No. 3 is my favorite. Whenever I read it I seem to enjoy all that the - patient enjoyed—whatever it was: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - 3. "Once at King George's Sound a native presented himself to me with - one leg only, and requested me to supply him with a wooden leg. He had - traveled in this maimed state about ninety-six miles, for this purpose. - I examined the limb, which had been severed just below the knee, and - found that it had been charred by fire, while about two inches of the - partially calcined bone protruded through the flesh. I at once removed - this with the saw; and having made as presentable a stump of it as I - could, covered the amputated end of the bone with a surrounding of - muscle, and kept the patient a few days under my care to allow the wound - to heal. On inquiring, the native told me that in a fight with other - black-fellows a spear had struck his leg and penetrated the bone below - the knee. Finding it was serious, he had recourse to the following crude - and barbarous operation, which it appears is not uncommon among these - people in their native state. He made a fire, and dug a hole in the - earth only sufficiently large to admit his leg, and deep enough to allow - the wounded part to be on a level with the surface of the ground. He - then surrounded the limb with the live coals or charcoal, which was - replenished until the leg was literally burnt off. The cauterization - thus applied completely checked the hemorrhage, and he was able in a day - or two to hobble down to the Sound, with the aid of a long stout stick, - although he was more than a week on the road." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p220.jpg (64K)" src="images/p220.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - But he was a fastidious native. He soon discarded the wooden leg made for - him by the doctor, because "it had no feeling in it." It must have had as - much as the one he burnt off, I should think. - </p> - <p> - So much for the Aboriginals. It is difficult for me to let them alone. - They are marvelously interesting creatures. For a quarter of a century, - now, the several colonial governments have housed their remnants in - comfortable stations, and fed them well and taken good care of them in - every way. If I had found this out while I was in Australia I could have - seen some of those people—but I didn't. I would walk thirty miles to - see a stuffed one. - </p> - <p> - Australia has a slang of its own. This is a matter of course. The vast - cattle and sheep industries, the strange aspects of the country, and the - strange native animals, brute and human, are matters which would naturally - breed a local slang. I have notes of this slang somewhere, but at the - moment I can call to mind only a few of the words and phrases. They are - expressive ones. The wide, sterile, unpeopled deserts have created - eloquent phrases like "No Man's Land" and the "Never-never Country." Also - this felicitous form: "She lives in the Never-never Country"—that - is, she is an old maid. And this one is not without merit: - "heifer-paddock"—young ladies' seminary. "Bail up" and "stick up" - equivalent of our highwayman-term to "hold up" a stage-coach or a train. - "New-chum" is the equivalent of our "tenderfoot"—new arrival. - </p> - <p> - And then there is the immortal "My word!" We must import it. "M-y word!" - In cold print it is the equivalent of our "Ger-rreat Caesar!" but spoken - with the proper Australian unction and fervency, it is worth six of it for - grace and charm and expressiveness. Our form is rude and explosive; it is - not suited to the drawing-room or the heifer-paddock; but "M-y word!" is, - and is music to the ear, too, when the utterer knows how to say it. I saw - it in print several times on the Pacific Ocean, but it struck me coldly, - it aroused no sympathy. That was because it was the dead corpse of the - thing, the soul was not there—the tones were lacking—the - informing spirit—the deep feeling—the eloquence. But the first - time I heard an Australian say it, it was positively thrilling.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p222.jpg (13K)" src="images/p222.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch23" id="ch23"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Be careless in your dress if you must, but keep a tidy soul.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We left Adelaide in due course, and went to Horsham, in the colony of - Victoria; a good deal of a journey, if I remember rightly, but pleasant. - Horsham sits in a plain which is as level as a floor—one of those - famous dead levels which Australian books describe so often; gray, bare, - sombre, melancholy, baked, cracked, in the tedious long drouths, but a - horizonless ocean of vivid green grass the day after a rain. A country - town, peaceful, reposeful, inviting, full of snug homes, with garden - plots, and plenty of shrubbery and flowers. - </p> - <p> - "Horsham, October 17. At the hotel. The weather divine. Across the way, in - front of the London Bank of Australia, is a very handsome cottonwood. It - is in opulent leaf, and every leaf perfect. The full power of the - on-rushing spring is upon it, and I imagine I can see it grow. Alongside - the bank and a little way back in the garden there is a row of soaring - fountain-sprays of delicate feathery foliage quivering in the breeze, and - mottled with flashes of light that shift and play through the mass like - flash-lights through an opal—a most beautiful tree, and a striking - contrast to the cottonwood. Every leaf of the cottonwood is distinctly - defined—it is a kodak for faithful, hard, unsentimental detail; the - other an impressionist picture, delicious to look upon, full of a subtle - and exquisite charm, but all details fused in a swoon of vague and soft - loveliness." - </p> - <p> - It turned out, upon inquiry, to be a pepper tree—an importation from - China. It has a silky sheen, soft and rich. I saw some that had long red - bunches of currant-like berries ambushed among the foliage. At a distance, - in certain lights, they give the tree a pinkish tint and a new charm. - </p> - <p> - There is an agricultural college eight miles from Horsham. We were driven - out to it by its chief. The conveyance was an open wagon; the time, - noonday; no wind; the sky without a cloud, the sunshine brilliant—and - the mercury at 92 deg. in the shade. In some countries an indolent - unsheltered drive of an hour and a half under such conditions would have - been a sweltering and prostrating experience; but there was nothing of - that in this case. It is a climate that is perfect. There was no sense of - heat; indeed, there was no heat; the air was fine and pure and - exhilarating; if the drive had lasted half a day I think we should not - have felt any discomfort, or grown silent or droopy or tired. Of course, - the secret of it was the exceeding dryness of the atmosphere. In that - plain 112 deg. in the shade is without doubt no harder upon a man than is - 88 or 90 deg. in New York. - </p> - <p> - The road lay through the middle of an empty space which seemed to me to be - a hundred yards wide between the fences. I was not given the width in - yards, but only in chains and perches—and furlongs, I think. I would - have given a good deal to know what the width was, but I did not pursue - the matter. I think it is best to put up with information the way you get - it; and seem satisfied with it, and surprised at it, and grateful for it, - and say, "My word!" and never let on. It was a wide space; I could tell - you how wide, in chains and perches and furlongs and things, but that - would not help you any. Those things sound well, but they are shadowy and - indefinite, like troy weight and avoirdupois; nobody knows what they mean. - When you buy a pound of a drug and the man asks you which you want, troy - or avoirdupois, it is best to say "Yes," and shift the subject.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p224.jpg (9K)" src="images/p224.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - They said that the wide space dates from the earliest sheep and - cattle-raising days. People had to drive their stock long distances—immense - journeys—from worn-out places to new ones where were water and fresh - pasturage; and this wide space had to be left in grass and unfenced, or - the stock would have starved to death in the transit. - </p> - <p> - On the way we saw the usual birds—the beautiful little green - parrots, the magpie, and some others; and also the slender native bird of - modest plumage and the eternally-forgettable name—the bird that is - the smartest among birds, and can give a parrot 30 to 1 in the game and - then talk him to death. I cannot recall that bird's name. I think it - begins with M. I wish it began with G. or something that a person can - remember. - </p> - <p> - The magpie was out in great force, in the fields and on the fences. He is - a handsome large creature, with snowy white decorations, and is a singer; - he has a murmurous rich note that is lovely. He was once modest, even - diffident; but he lost all that when he found out that he was Australia's - sole musical bird. He has talent, and cuteness, and impudence; and in his - tame state he is a most satisfactory pet—never coming when he is - called, always coming when he isn't, and studying disobedience as an - accomplishment. He is not confined, but loafs all over the house and - grounds, like the laughing jackass. I think he learns to talk, I know he - learns to sing tunes, and his friends say that he knows how to steal - without learning. I was acquainted with a tame magpie in Melbourne. He had - lived in a lady's house several years, and believed he owned it. The lady - had tamed him, and in return he had tamed the lady. He was always on deck - when not wanted, always having his own way, always tyrannizing over the - dog, and always making the cat's life a slow sorrow and a martyrdom. He - knew a number of tunes and could sing them in perfect time and tune; and - would do it, too, at any time that silence was wanted; and then encore - himself and do it again; but if he was asked to sing he would go out and - take a walk. - </p> - <p> - It was long believed that fruit trees would not grow in that baked and - waterless plain around Horsham, but the agricultural college has - dissipated that idea. Its ample nurseries were producing oranges, - apricots, lemons, almonds, peaches, cherries, 48 varieties of apples—in - fact, all manner of fruits, and in abundance. The trees did not seem to - miss the water; they were in vigorous and flourishing condition. - </p> - <p> - Experiments are made with different soils, to see what things thrive best - in them and what climates are best for them. A man who is ignorantly - trying to produce upon his farm things not suited to its soil and its - other conditions can make a journey to the college from anywhere in - Australia, and go back with a change of scheme which will make his farm - productive and profitable. - </p> - <p> - There were forty pupils there—a few of them farmers, relearning - their trade, the rest young men mainly from the cities—novices. It - seemed a strange thing that an agricultural college should have an - attraction for city-bred youths, but such is the fact. They are good - stuff, too; they are above the agricultural average of intelligence, and - they come without any inherited prejudices in favor of hoary ignorances - made sacred by long descent. - </p> - <p> - The students work all day in the fields, the nurseries, and the - shearing-sheds, learning and doing all the practical work of the business—three - days in a week. On the other three they study and hear lectures. They are - taught the beginnings of such sciences as bear upon agriculture—like - chemistry, for instance. We saw the sophomore class in sheep-shearing - shear a dozen sheep. They did it by hand, not with the machine. The sheep - was seized and flung down on his side and held there; and the students - took off his coat with great celerity and adroitness. Sometimes they - clipped off a sample of the sheep, but that is customary with shearers, - and they don't mind it; they don't even mind it as much as the sheep. They - dab a splotch of sheep-dip on the place and go right ahead. - </p> - <p> - The coat of wool was unbelievably thick. Before the shearing the sheep - looked like the fat woman in the circus; after it he looked like a bench. - He was clipped to the skin; and smoothly and uniformly. The fleece comes - from him all in one piece and has the spread of a blanket. - </p> - <p> - The college was flying the Australian flag—the gridiron of England - smuggled up in the northwest corner of a big red field that had the random - stars of the Southern Cross wandering around over it. - </p> - <p> - From Horsham we went to Stawell. By rail. Still in the colony of Victoria. - Stawell is in the gold-mining country. In the bank-safe was half a peck of - surface-gold—gold dust, grain gold; rich; pure in fact, and pleasant - to sift through one's fingers; and would be pleasanter if it would stick. - And there were a couple of gold bricks, very heavy to handle, and worth - $7,500 a piece. They were from a very valuable quartz mine; a lady owns - two-thirds of it; she has an income of $75,000 a month from it, and is - able to keep house. - </p> - <p> - The Stawell region is not productive of gold only; it has great vineyards, - and produces exceptionally fine wines. One of these vineyards—the - Great Western, owned by Mr. Irving—is regarded as a model. Its - product has reputation abroad. It yields a choice champagne and a fine - claret, and its hock took a prize in France two or three years ago. The - champagne is kept in a maze of passages under ground, cut in the rock, to - secure it an even temperature during the three-year term required to - perfect it. In those vaults I saw 120,000 bottles of champagne. The colony - of Victoria has a population of 1,000,000, and those people are said to - drink 25,000,000 bottles of champagne per year. The dryest community on - the earth. The government has lately reduced the duty upon foreign wines. - That is one of the unkindnesses of Protection. A man invests years of work - and a vast sum of money in a worthy enterprise, upon the faith of existing - laws; then the law is changed, and the man is robbed by his own - government. - </p> - <p> - On the way back to Stawell we had a chance to see a group of boulders - called the Three Sisters—a curiosity oddly located; for it was upon - high ground, with the land sloping away from it, and no height above it - from whence the boulders could have rolled down. Relics of an early - ice-drift, perhaps. They are noble boulders. One of them has the size and - smoothness and plump sphericity of a balloon of the biggest pattern.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p228.jpg (23K)" src="images/p228.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The road led through a forest of great gum-trees, lean and scraggy and - sorrowful. The road was cream-white—a clayey kind of earth, - apparently. Along it toiled occasional freight wagons, drawn by long - double files of oxen. Those wagons were going a journey of two hundred - miles, I was told, and were running a successful opposition to the - railway! The railways are owned and run by the government. - </p> - <p> - Those sad gums stood up out of the dry white clay, pictures of patience - and resignation. It is a tree that can get along without water; still it - is fond of it—ravenously so. It is a very intelligent tree and will - detect the presence of hidden water at a distance of fifty feet, and send - out slender long root-fibres to prospect it. They will find it; and will - also get at it even through a cement wall six inches thick. Once a cement - water-pipe under ground at Stawell began to gradually reduce its output, - and finally ceased altogether to deliver water. Upon examining into the - matter it was found stopped up, wadded compactly with a mass of - root-fibres, delicate and hair-like. How this stuff had gotten into the - pipe was a puzzle for some little time; finally it was found that it had - crept in through a crack that was almost invisible to the eye. A gum tree - forty feet away had tapped the pipe and was drinking the water.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch24" id="ch24"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXIV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There is no such thing as "the Queen's English." The property has gone - into the hands of a joint stock company and we own the bulk of the shares!</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Frequently, in Australia, one has cloud-effects of an unfamiliar sort. We - had this kind of scenery, finely staged, all the way to Ballarat. - Consequently we saw more sky than country on that journey. At one time a - great stretch of the vault was densely flecked with wee ragged-edged - flakes of painfully white cloud-stuff, all of one shape and size, and - equidistant apart, with narrow cracks of adorable blue showing between. - The whole was suggestive of a hurricane of snow-flakes drifting across the - skies. By and by these flakes fused themselves together in interminable - lines, with shady faint hollows between the lines, the long satin-surfaced - rollers following each other in simulated movement, and enchantingly - counterfeiting the majestic march of a flowing sea. Later, the sea - solidified itself; then gradually broke up its mass into innumerable lofty - white pillars of about one size, and ranged these across the firmament, in - receding and fading perspective, in the similitude of a stupendous - colonnade—a mirage without a doubt flung from the far Gates of the - Hereafter. - </p> - <p> - The approaches to Ballarat were beautiful. The features, great green - expanses of rolling pasture-land, bisected by eye-contenting hedges of - commingled new-gold and old-gold gorse—and a lovely lake. One must - put in the pause, there, to fetch the reader up with a slight jolt, and - keep him from gliding by without noticing the lake. One must notice it; - for a lovely lake is not as common a thing along the railways of Australia - as are the dry places. Ninety-two in the shade again, but balmy and - comfortable, fresh and bracing. A perfect climate. - </p> - <p> - Forty-five years ago the site now occupied by the City of Ballarat was a - sylvan solitude as quiet as Eden and as lovely. Nobody had ever heard of - it. On the 25th of August, 1851, the first great gold-strike made in - Australia was made here. The wandering prospectors who made it scraped up - two pounds and a half of gold the first day-worth $600. A few days later - the place was a hive—a town. The news of the strike spread - everywhere in a sort of instantaneous way—spread like a flash to the - very ends of the earth. A celebrity so prompt and so universal has hardly - been paralleled in history, perhaps. It was as if the name BALLARAT had - suddenly been written on the sky, where all the world could read it at - once. - </p> - <p> - The smaller discoveries made in the colony of New South Wales three months - before had already started emigrants toward Australia; they had been - coming as a stream, but they came as a flood, now. A hundred thousand - people poured into Melbourne from England and other countries in a single - month, and flocked away to the mines. The crews of the ships that brought - them flocked with them; the clerks in the government offices followed; so - did the cooks, the maids, the coachmen, the butlers, and the other - domestic servants; so did the carpenters, the smiths, the plumbers, the - painters, the reporters, the editors, the lawyers, the clients, the - barkeepers, the bummers, the blacklegs, the thieves, the loose women, the - grocers, the butchers, the bakers, the doctors, the druggists, the nurses; - so did the police; even officials of high and hitherto envied place threw - up their positions and joined the procession. This roaring avalanche swept - out of Melbourne and left it desolate, Sunday-like, paralyzed, everything - at a stand-still, the ships lying idle at anchor, all signs of life - departed, all sounds stilled save the rasping of the cloud-shadows as they - scraped across the vacant streets. - </p> - <p> - That grassy and leafy paradise at Ballarat was soon ripped open, and - lacerated and scarified and gutted, in the feverish search for its hidden - riches. There is nothing like surface-mining to snatch the graces and - beauties and benignities out of a paradise, and make an odious and - repulsive spectacle of it. - </p> - <p> - What fortunes were made! Immigrants got rich while the ship unloaded and - reloaded—and went back home for good in the same cabin they had come - out in! Not all of them. Only some. I saw the others in Ballarat myself, - forty-five years later—what were left of them by time and death and - the disposition to rove. They were young and gay, then; they are - patriarchal and grave, now; and they do not get excited any more. They - talk of the Past. They live in it. Their life is a dream, a retrospection. - </p> - <p> - Ballarat was a great region for "nuggets." No such nuggets were found in - California as Ballarat produced. In fact, the Ballarat region has yielded - the largest ones known to history. Two of them weighed about 180 pounds - each, and together were worth $90,000. They were offered to any poor - person who would shoulder them and carry them away. Gold was so plentiful - that it made people liberal like that. - </p> - <p> - Ballarat was a swarming city of tents in the early days. Everybody was - happy, for a time, and apparently prosperous. Then came trouble. The - government swooped down with a mining tax. And in its worst form, too; for - it was not a tax upon what the miner had taken out, but upon what he was - going to take out—if he could find it. It was a license-tax—license - to work his claim—and it had to be paid before he could begin - digging. - </p> - <p> - Consider the situation. No business is so uncertain as surface-mining. - Your claim may be good, and it may be worthless. It may make you well off - in a month; and then again you may have to dig and slave for half a year, - at heavy expense, only to find out at last that the gold is not there in - cost-paying quantity, and that your time and your hard work have been - thrown away. It might be wise policy to advance the miner a monthly sum to - encourage him to develop the country's riches; but to tax him monthly in - advance instead—why, such a thing was never dreamed of in America. - There, neither the claim itself nor its products, howsoever rich or poor, - were taxed. - </p> - <p> - The Ballarat miners protested, petitioned, complained—it was of no - use; the government held its ground, and went on collecting the tax. And - not by pleasant methods, but by ways which must have been very galling to - free people. The rumblings of a coming storm began to be audible. - </p> - <p> - By and by there was a result; and I think it may be called the finest - thing in Australasian history. It was a revolution—small in size; - but great politically; it was a strike for liberty, a struggle for a - principle, a stand against injustice and oppression. It was the Barons and - John, over again; it was Hampden and Ship-Money; it was Concord and - Lexington; small beginnings, all of them, but all of them great in - political results, all of them epoch-making. It is another instance of a - victory won by a lost battle. It adds an honorable page to history; the - people know it and are proud of it. They keep green the memory of the men - who fell at the Eureka Stockade, and Peter Lalor has his monument. - </p> - <p> - The surface-soil of Ballarat was full of gold. This soil the miners ripped - and tore and trenched and harried and disembowled, and made it yield up - its immense treasure. Then they went down into the earth with deep shafts, - seeking the gravelly beds of ancient rivers and brooks—and found - them. They followed the courses of these streams, and gutted them, sending - the gravel up in buckets to the upper world, and washing out of it its - enormous deposits of gold. The next biggest of the two monster nuggets - mentioned above came from an old river-channel 180 feet under ground. - </p> - <p> - Finally the quartz lodes were attacked. That is not poor-man's mining. - Quartz-mining and milling require capital, and staying-power, and - patience. Big companies were formed, and for several decades, now, the - lodes have been successfully worked, and have yielded great wealth. Since - the gold discovery in 1853 the Ballarat mines—taking the three kinds - of mining together—have contributed to the world's pocket something - over three hundred millions of dollars, which is to say that this nearly - invisible little spot on the earth's surface has yielded about one-fourth - as much gold in forty-four years as all California has yielded in - forty-seven. The Californian aggregate, from 1848 to 1895, inclusive, as - reported by the Statistician of the United States Mint, is $1,265,217,217. - </p> - <p> - A citizen told me a curious thing about those mines. With all my - experience of mining I had never heard of anything of the sort before. The - main gold reef runs about north and south—of course—for that - is the custom of a rich gold reef. At Ballarat its course is between walls - of slate. Now the citizen told me that throughout a stretch of twelve - miles along the reef, the reef is crossed at intervals by a straight black - streak of a carbonaceous nature—a streak in the slate; a streak no - thicker than a pencil—and that wherever it crosses the reef you will - certainly find gold at the junction. It is called the Indicator. Thirty - feet on each side of the Indicator (and down in the slate, of course) is a - still finer streak—a streak as fine as a pencil mark; and indeed, - that is its name Pencil Mark. Whenever you find the Pencil Mark you know - that thirty feet from it is the Indicator; you measure the distance, - excavate, find the Indicator, trace it straight to the reef, and sink your - shaft; your fortune is made, for certain. If that is true, it is curious. - And it is curious anyway. - </p> - <p> - Ballarat is a town of only 40,000 population; and yet, since it is in - Australia, it has every essential of an advanced and enlightened big city. - This is pure matter of course. I must stop dwelling upon these things. It - is hard to keep from dwelling upon them, though; for it is difficult to - get away from the surprise of it. I will let the other details go, this - time, but I must allow myself to mention that this little town has a park - of 326 acres; a flower garden of 83 acres, with an elaborate and expensive - fernery in it and some costly and unusually fine statuary; and an - artificial lake covering 600 acres, equipped with a fleet of 200 shells, - small sail boats, and little steam yachts.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p236.jpg (55K)" src="images/p236.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - At this point I strike out some other praiseful things which I was tempted - to add. I do not strike them out because they were not true or not well - said, but because I find them better said by another man—and a man - more competent to testify, too, because he belongs on the ground, and - knows. I clip them from a chatty speech delivered some years ago by Mr. - William Little, who was at that time mayor of Ballarat: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The language of our citizens, in this as in other parts of Australasia, - is mostly healthy Anglo-Saxon, free from Americanisms, vulgarisms, and - the conflicting dialects of our Fatherland, and is pure enough to suit a - Trench or a Latham. Our youth, aided by climatic influence, are in point - of physique and comeliness unsurpassed in the Sunny South. Our young men - are well ordered; and our maidens, 'not stepping over the bounds of - modesty,' are as fair as Psyches, dispensing smiles as charming as - November flowers." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The closing clause has the seeming of a rather frosty compliment, but that - is apparent only, not real. November is summer-time there. - </p> - <p> - His compliment to the local purity of the language is warranted. It is - quite free from impurities; this is acknowledged far and wide. As in the - German Empire all cultivated people claim to speak Hanovarian German, so - in Australasia all cultivated people claim to speak Ballarat English. Even - in England this cult has made considerable progress, and now that it is - favored by the two great Universities, the time is not far away when - Ballarat English will come into general use among the educated classes of - Great Britain at large. Its great merit is, that it is shorter than - ordinary English—that is, it is more compressed. At first you have - some difficulty in understanding it when it is spoken as rapidly as the - orator whom I have quoted speaks it. An illustration will show what I - mean. When he called and I handed him a chair, he bowed and said: - </p> - <p> - "Q." - </p> - <p> - Presently, when we were lighting our cigars, he held a match to mine and I - said: - </p> - <p> - "Thank you," and he said: - </p> - <p> - "Km." - </p> - <p> - Then I saw. 'Q' is the end of the phrase "I thank you" 'Km' is the end of - the phrase "You are welcome." Mr. Little puts no emphasis upon either of - them, but delivers them so reduced that they hardly have a sound. All - Ballarat English is like that, and the effect is very soft and pleasant; - it takes all the hardness and harshness out of our tongue and gives to it - a delicate whispery and vanishing cadence which charms the ear like the - faint rustling of the forest leaves.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch25" id="ch25"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>"Classic." A book which people praise and don't read.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - On the rail again—bound for Bendigo. From diary: - </p> - <p> - October 23. Got up at 6, left at 7.30; soon reached Castlemaine, one of - the rich gold-fields of the early days; waited several hours for a train; - left at 3.40 and reached Bendigo in an hour. For comrade, a Catholic - priest who was better than I was, but didn't seem to know it—a man - full of graces of the heart, the mind, and the spirit; a lovable man. He - will rise. He will be a bishop some day. Later an Archbishop. Later a - Cardinal. Finally an Archangel, I hope. And then he will recall me when I - say, "Do you remember that trip we made from Ballarat to Bendigo, when you - were nothing but Father C., and I was nothing to what I am now?" It has - actually taken nine hours to come from Ballarat to Bendigo. We could have - saved seven by walking. However, there was no hurry.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p240.jpg (52K)" src="images/p240.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Bendigo was another of the rich strikes of the early days. It does a great - quartz-mining business, now—that business which, more than any other - that I know of, teaches patience, and requires grit and a steady nerve. - The town is full of towering chimney-stacks, and hoisting-works, and looks - like a petroleum-city. Speaking of patience; for example, one of the local - companies went steadily on with its deep borings and searchings without - show of gold or a penny of reward for eleven years—then struck it, - and became suddenly rich. The eleven years' work had cost $55,000, and the - first gold found was a grain the size of a pin's head. It is kept under - locks and bars, as a precious thing, and is reverently shown to the - visitor, "hats off." When I saw it I had not heard its history. - </p> - <p> - "It is gold. Examine it—take the glass. Now how much should you say - it is worth?" - </p> - <p> - I said: - </p> - <p> - "I should say about two cents; or in your English dialect, four - farthings." - </p> - <p> - "Well, it cost L11,000." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, come!" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, it did. Ballarat and Bendigo have produced the three monumental - nuggets of the world, and this one is the monumentalest one of the three. - The other two represent L9,000 a piece; this one a couple of thousand - more. It is small, and not much to look at, but it is entitled to (its) - name—Adam. It is the Adam-nugget of this mine, and its children run - up into the millions." - </p> - <p> - Speaking of patience again, another of the mines was worked, under heavy - expenses, during 17 years before pay was struck, and still another one - compelled a wait of 21 years before pay was struck; then, in both - instances, the outlay was all back in a year or two, with compound - interest. - </p> - <p> - Bendigo has turned out even more gold than Ballarat. The two together have - produced $650,000,000 worth—which is half as much as California - produced. - </p> - <p> - It was through Mr. Blank—not to go into particulars about his name—it - was mainly through Mr. Blank that my stay in Bendigo was made memorably - pleasant and interesting. He explained this to me himself. He told me that - it was through his influence that the city government invited me to the - town-hall to hear complimentary speeches and respond to them; that it was - through his influence that I had been taken on a long pleasure-drive - through the city and shown its notable features; that it was through his - influence that I was invited to visit the great mines; that it was through - his influence that I was taken to the hospital and allowed to see the - convalescent Chinaman who had been attacked at midnight in his lonely hut - eight weeks before by robbers, and stabbed forty-six times and scalped - besides; that it was through his influence that when I arrived this awful - spectacle of piecings and patchings and bandagings was sitting up in his - cot letting on to read one of my books; that it was through his influence - that efforts had been made to get the Catholic Archbishop of Bendigo to - invite me to dinner; that it was through his influence that efforts had - been made to get the Anglican Bishop of Bendigo to ask me to supper; that - it was through his influence that the dean of the editorial fraternity had - driven me through the woodsy outlying country and shown me, from the - summit of Lone Tree Hill, the mightiest and loveliest expanse of - forest-clad mountain and valley that I had seen in all Australia. And when - he asked me what had most impressed me in Bendigo and I answered and said - it was the taste and the public spirit which had adorned the streets with - 105 miles of shade trees, he said that it was through his influence that - it had been done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p243.jpg (20K)" src="images/p243.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - But I am not representing him quite correctly. He did not say it was - through his influence that all these things had happened—for that - would have been coarse; he merely conveyed that idea; conveyed it so - subtly that I only caught it fleetingly, as one catches vagrant faint - breaths of perfume when one traverses the meadows in summer; conveyed it - without offense and without any suggestion of egoism or ostentation—but - conveyed it, nevertheless. - </p> - <p> - He was an Irishman; an educated gentleman; grave, and kindly, and - courteous; a bachelor, and about forty-five or possibly fifty years old, - apparently. He called upon me at the hotel, and it was there that we had - this talk. He made me like him, and did it without trouble. This was - partly through his winning and gentle ways, but mainly through the amazing - familiarity with my books which his conversation showed. He was down to - date with them, too; and if he had made them the study of his life he - could hardly have been better posted as to their contents than he was. He - made me better satisfied with myself than I had ever been before. It was - plain that he had a deep fondness for humor, yet he never laughed; he - never even chuckled; in fact, humor could not win to outward expression on - his face at all. No, he was always grave—tenderly, pensively grave; - but he made me laugh, all along; and this was very trying—and very - pleasant at the same time—for it was at quotations from my own - books. - </p> - <p> - When he was going, he turned and said: - </p> - <p> - "You don't remember me?" - </p> - <p> - "I? Why, no. Have we met before?" - </p> - <p> - "No, it was a matter of correspondence." - </p> - <p> - "Correspondence?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, many years ago. Twelve or fifteen. Oh, longer than that. But of - course you——" A musing pause. Then he said: - </p> - <p> - "Do you remember Corrigan Castle?" - </p> - <p> - "N-no, I believe I don't. I don't seem to recall the name." - </p> - <p> - He waited a moment, pondering, with the door-knob in his hand, then - started out; but turned back and said that I had once been interested in - Corrigan Castle, and asked me if I would go with him to his quarters in - the evening and take a hot Scotch and talk it over. I was a teetotaler and - liked relaxation, so I said I would. - </p> - <p> - We drove from the lecture-hall together about half-past ten. He had a most - comfortably and tastefully furnished parlor, with good pictures on the - walls, Indian and Japanese ornaments on the mantel, and here and there, - and books everywhere-largely mine; which made me proud. The light was - brilliant, the easy chairs were deep-cushioned, the arrangements for - brewing and smoking were all there. We brewed and lit up; then he passed a - sheet of note-paper to me and said— - </p> - <p> - "Do you remember that?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, yes, indeed!" - </p> - <p> - The paper was of a sumptuous quality. At the top was a twisted and - interlaced monogram printed from steel dies in gold and blue and red, in - the ornate English fashion of long years ago; and under it, in neat gothic - capitals was this—printed in blue: - </p> - <p> - THE MARK TWAIN CLUB CORRIGAN CASTLE ............187.. - </p> - <p> - "My!" said I, "how did you come by this?" - </p> - <p> - "I was President of it." - </p> - <p> - "No!—you don't mean it." - </p> - <p> - "It is true. I was its first President. I was re-elected annually as long - as its meetings were held in my castle—Corrigan—which was five - years." - </p> - <p> - Then he showed me an album with twenty-three photographs of me in it. Five - of them were of old dates, the others of various later crops; the list - closed with a picture taken by Falk in Sydney a month before. - </p> - <p> - "You sent us the first five; the rest were bought." - </p> - <p> - This was paradise! We ran late, and talked, talked, talked—subject, - the Mark Twain Club of Corrigan Castle, Ireland. - </p> - <p> - My first knowledge of that Club dates away back; all of twenty years, I - should say. It came to me in the form of a courteous letter, written on - the note-paper which I have described, and signed "By order of the - President; C. PEMBROKE, Secretary." It conveyed the fact that the Club had - been created in my honor, and added the hope that this token of - appreciation of my work would meet with my approval. - </p> - <p> - I answered, with thanks; and did what I could to keep my gratification - from over-exposure. - </p> - <p> - It was then that the long correspondence began. A letter came back, by - order of the President, furnishing me the names of the members-thirty-two - in number. With it came a copy of the Constitution and By-Laws, in - pamphlet form, and artistically printed. The initiation fee and dues were - in their proper place; also, schedule of meetings—monthly—for - essays upon works of mine, followed by discussions; quarterly for business - and a supper, without essays, but with after-supper speeches; also there - was a list of the officers: President, Vice-President, Secretary, - Treasurer, etc. The letter was brief, but it was pleasant reading, for it - told me about the strong interest which the membership took in their new - venture, etc., etc. It also asked me for a photograph—a special one. - I went down and sat for it and sent it—with a letter, of course. - </p> - <p> - Presently came the badge of the Club, and very dainty and pretty it was; - and very artistic. It was a frog peeping out from a graceful tangle of - grass-sprays and rushes, and was done in enamels on a gold basis, and had - a gold pin back of it. After I had petted it, and played with it, and - caressed it, and enjoyed it a couple of hours, the light happened to fall - upon it at a new angle, and revealed to me a cunning new detail; with the - light just right, certain delicate shadings of the grass-blades and - rush-stems wove themselves into a monogram—mine! You can see that - that jewel was a work of art. And when you come to consider the intrinsic - value of it, you must concede that it is not every literary club that - could afford a badge like that. It was easily worth $75, in the opinion of - Messrs. Marcus and Ward of New York. They said they could not duplicate it - for that and make a profit.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p247.jpg (6K)" src="images/p247.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - By this time the Club was well under way; and from that time forth its - secretary kept my off-hours well supplied with business. He reported the - Club's discussions of my books with laborious fullness, and did his work - with great spirit and ability. As a, rule, he synopsized; but when a - speech was especially brilliant, he short-handed it and gave me the best - passages from it, written out. There were five speakers whom he - particularly favored in that way: Palmer, Forbes, Naylor, Norris, and - Calder. Palmer and Forbes could never get through a speech without - attacking each other, and each in his own way was formidably effective—Palmer - in virile and eloquent abuse, Forbes in courtly and elegant but scalding - satire. I could always tell which of them was talking without looking for - his name. Naylor had a polished style and a happy knack at felicitous - metaphor; Norris's style was wholly without ornament, but enviably - compact, lucid, and strong. But after all, Calder was the gem. He never - spoke when sober, he spoke continuously when he wasn't. And certainly they - were the drunkest speeches that a man ever uttered. They were full of good - things, but so incredibly mixed up and wandering that it made one's head - swim to follow him. They were not intended to be funny, but they were,—funny - for the very gravity which the speaker put into his flowing miracles of - incongruity. In the course of five years I came to know the styles of the - five orators as well as I knew the style of any speaker in my own club at - home. - </p> - <p> - These reports came every month. They were written on foolscap, 600 words - to the page, and usually about twenty-five pages in a report—a good - 15,000 words, I should say,—a solid week's work. The reports were - absorbingly entertaining, long as they were; but, unfortunately for me, - they did not come alone. They were always accompanied by a lot of - questions about passages and purposes in my books, which the Club wanted - answered; and additionally accompanied every quarter by the Treasurer's - report, and the Auditor's report, and the Committee's report, and the - President's review, and my opinion of these was always desired; also - suggestions for the good of the Club, if any occurred to me. - </p> - <p> - By and by I came to dread those things; and this dread grew and grew and - grew; grew until I got to anticipating them with a cold horror. For I was - an indolent man, and not fond of letter-writing, and whenever these things - came I had to put everything by and sit down—for my own peace of - mind—and dig and dig until I got something out of my head which - would answer for a reply. I got along fairly well the first year; but for - the succeeding four years the Mark Twain Club of Corrigan Castle was my - curse, my nightmare, the grief and misery of my life. And I got so, so - sick of sitting for photographs. I sat every year for five years, trying - to satisfy that insatiable organization. Then at last I rose in revolt. I - could endure my oppressions no longer. I pulled my fortitude together and - tore off my chains, and was a free man again, and happy. From that day I - burned the secretary's fat envelopes the moment they arrived, and by and - by they ceased to come. - </p> - <p> - Well, in the sociable frankness of that night in Bendigo I brought this - all out in full confession. Then Mr. Blank came out in the same frank way, - and with a preliminary word of gentle apology said that he was the Mark - Twain Club, and the only member it had ever had! - </p> - <p> - Why, it was matter for anger, but I didn't feel any. He said he never had - to work for a living, and that by the time he was thirty life had become a - bore and a weariness to him. He had no interests left; they had paled and - perished, one by one, and left him desolate. He had begun to think of - suicide. Then all of a sudden he thought of that happy idea of starting an - imaginary club, and went straightway to work at it, with enthusiasm and - love. He was charmed with it; it gave him something to do. It elaborated - itself on his hands;—it became twenty times more complex and - formidable than was his first rude draft of it. Every new addition to his - original plan which cropped up in his mind gave him a fresh interest and a - new pleasure. He designed the Club badge himself, and worked over it, - altering and improving it, a number of days and nights; then sent to - London and had it made. It was the only one that was made. It was made for - me; the "rest of the Club" went without. - </p> - <p> - He invented the thirty-two members and their names. He invented the five - favorite speakers and their five separate styles. He invented their - speeches, and reported them himself. He would have kept that Club going - until now, if I hadn't deserted, he said. He said he worked like a slave - over those reports; each of them cost him from a week to a fortnight's - work, and the work gave him pleasure and kept him alive and willing to be - alive. It was a bitter blow to him when the Club died. - </p> - <p> - Finally, there wasn't any Corrigan Castle. He had invented that, too. - </p> - <p> - It was wonderful—the whole thing; and altogether the most ingenious - and laborious and cheerful and painstaking practical joke I have ever - heard of. And I liked it; liked to hear him tell about it; yet I have been - a hater of practical jokes from as long back as I can remember. Finally he - said— - </p> - <p> - "Do you remember a note from Melbourne fourteen or fifteen years ago, - telling about your lecture tour in Australia, and your death and burial in - Melbourne?—a note from Henry Bascomb, of Bascomb Hall, Upper - Holywell, Hants." - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "I wrote it." - </p> - <p> - "M-y-word!" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, I did it. I don't know why. I just took the notion, and carried it - out without stopping to think. It was wrong. It could have done harm. I - was always sorry about it afterward. You must forgive me. I was Mr. - Bascom's guest on his yacht, on his voyage around the world. He often - spoke of you, and of the pleasant times you had had together in his home; - and the notion took me, there in Melbourne, and I imitated his hand, and - wrote the letter." - </p> - <p> - So the mystery was cleared up, after so many, many years.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p251.jpg (21K)" src="images/p251.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch26" id="ch26"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are people who can do all fine and heroic things but one! keep - from telling their happinesses to the unhappy.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - After visits to Maryborough and some other Australian towns, we presently - took passage for New Zealand. If it would not look too much like showing - off, I would tell the reader where New Zealand is; for he is as I was; he - thinks he knows. And he thinks he knows where Hertzegovina is; and how to - pronounce pariah; and how to use the word unique without exposing himself - to the derision of the dictionary. But in truth, he knows none of these - things. There are but four or five people in the world who possess this - knowledge, and these make their living out of it. They travel from place - to place, visiting literary assemblages, geographical societies, and seats - of learning, and springing sudden bets that these people do not know these - things. Since all people think they know them, they are an easy prey to - these adventurers. Or rather they were an easy prey until the law - interfered, three months ago, and a New York court decided that this kind - of gambling is illegal, "because it traverses Article IV, Section 9, of - the Constitution of the United States, which forbids betting on a sure - thing." This decision was rendered by the full Bench of the New York - Supreme Court, after a test sprung upon the court by counsel for the - prosecution, which showed that none of the nine Judges was able to answer - any of the four questions. - </p> - <p> - All people think that New Zealand is close to Australia or Asia, or - somewhere, and that you cross to it on a bridge. But that is not so. It is - not close to anything, but lies by itself, out in the water. It is nearest - to Australia, but still not near. The gap between is very wide. It will be - a surprise to the reader, as it was to me, to learn that the distance from - Australia to New Zealand is really twelve or thirteen hundred miles, and - that there is no bridge. I learned this from Professor X., of Yale - University, whom I met in the steamer on the great lakes when I was - crossing the continent to sail across the Pacific. I asked him about New - Zealand, in order to make conversation. I supposed he would generalize a - little without compromising himself, and then turn the subject to - something he was acquainted with, and my object would then be attained; - the ice would be broken, and we could go smoothly on, and get acquainted, - and have a pleasant time. But, to my surprise, he was not only not - embarrassed by my question, but seemed to welcome it, and to take a - distinct interest in it. He began to talk—fluently, confidently, - comfortably; and as he talked, my admiration grew and grew; for as the - subject developed under his hands, I saw that he not only knew where New - Zealand was, but that he was minutely familiar with every detail of its - history, politics, religions, and commerce, its fauna, flora, geology, - products, and climatic peculiarities. When he was done, I was lost in - wonder and admiration, and said to myself, he knows everything; in the - domain of human knowledge he is king. - </p> - <p> - I wanted to see him do more miracles; and so, just for the pleasure of - hearing him answer, I asked him about Hertzegovina, and pariah, and - unique. But he began to generalize then, and show distress. I saw that - with New Zealand gone, he was a Samson shorn of his locks; he was as other - men. This was a curious and interesting mystery, and I was frank with him, - and asked him to explain it. - </p> - <p> - He tried to avoid it at first; but then laughed and said that after all, - the matter was not worth concealment, so he would let me into the secret. - In substance, this is his story: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Last autumn I was at work one morning at home, when a card came up—the - card of a stranger. Under the name was printed a line which showed that - this visitor was Professor of Theological Engineering in Wellington - University, New Zealand. I was troubled—troubled, I mean, by the - shortness of the notice. College etiquette required that he be at once - invited to dinner by some member of the Faculty—invited to dine on - that day—not, put off till a subsequent day. I did not quite know - what to do. College etiquette requires, in the case of a foreign guest, - that the dinner-talk shall begin with complimentary references to his - country, its great men, its services to civilization, its seats of - learning, and things like that; and of course the host is responsible, - and must either begin this talk himself or see that it is done by some - one else. I was in great difficulty; and the more I searched my memory, - the more my trouble grew. I found that I knew nothing about New Zealand. - I thought I knew where it was, and that was all. I had an impression - that it was close to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and that one went - over to it on a bridge. This might turn out to be incorrect; and even if - correct, it would not furnish matter enough for the purpose at the - dinner, and I should expose my College to shame before my guest; he - would see that I, a member of the Faculty of the first University in - America, was wholly ignorant of his country, and he would go away and - tell this, and laugh at it. The thought of it made my face burn. - </p> - <p> - "I sent for my wife and told her how I was situated, and asked for her - help, and she thought of a thing which I might have thought of myself, - if I had not been excited and worried. She said she would go and tell - the visitor that I was out but would be in in a few minutes; and she - would talk, and keep him busy while I got out the back way and hurried - over and make Professor Lawson give the dinner. For Lawson knew - everything, and could meet the guest in a creditable way and save the - reputation of the University. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p253.jpg (34K)" src="images/p253.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - I ran to Lawson, but was disappointed. He did not know anything about - New Zealand. He said that, as far as his recollection went it was close - to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and you go over to it on a bridge; - but that was all he knew. It was too bad. Lawson was a perfect - encyclopedia of abstruse learning; but now in this hour of our need, it - turned out that he did not know any useful thing. - </p> - <p> - "We consulted. He saw that the reputation of the University was in very - real peril, and he walked the floor in anxiety, talking, and trying to - think out some way to meet the difficulty. Presently he decided that we - must try the rest of the Faculty—some of them might know about New - Zealand. So we went to the telephone and called up the professor of - astronomy and asked him, and he said that all he knew was, that it was - close to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and you went over to it on—— - </p> - <p> - "We shut him off and called up the professor of biology, and he said - that all he knew was that it was close to Aus——. - </p> - </blockquote> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p254a.jpg (6K)" src="images/p254a.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - - - </td> - <td> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p254b.jpg (5K)" src="images/p254b.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <blockquote> - <p> - "We shut him off, and sat down, worried and disheartened, to see if we - could think up some other scheme. We shortly hit upon one which promised - well, and this one we adopted, and set its machinery going at once. It - was this. Lawson must give the dinner. The Faculty must be notified by - telephone to prepare. We must all get to work diligently, and at the end - of eight hours and a half we must come to dinner acquainted with New - Zealand; at least well enough informed to appear without discredit - before this native. To seem properly intelligent we should have to know - about New Zealand's population, and politics, and form of government, - and commerce, and taxes, and products, and ancient history, and modern - history, and varieties of religion, and nature of the laws, and their - codification, and amount of revenue, and whence drawn, and methods of - collection, and percentage of loss, and character of climate, and—well, - a lot of things like that; we must suck the maps and cyclopedias dry. - And while we posted up in this way, the Faculty's wives must flock over, - one after the other, in a studiedly casual way, and help my wife keep - the New Zealander quiet, and not let him get out and come interfering - with our studies. The scheme worked admirably; but it stopped business, - stopped it entirely. - </p> - <p> - "It is in the official log-book of Yale, to be read and wondered at by - future generations—the account of the Great Blank Day—the - memorable Blank Day—the day wherein the wheels of culture were - stopped, a Sunday silence prevailed all about, and the whole University - stood still while the Faculty read-up and qualified itself to sit at - meat, without shame, in the presence of the Professor of Theological - Engineering from New Zealand: - </p> - <p> - "When we assembled at the dinner we were miserably tired and worn—but - we were posted. Yes, it is fair to claim that. In fact, erudition is a - pale name for it. New Zealand was the only subject; and it was just - beautiful to hear us ripple it out. And with such an air of - unembarrassed ease, and unostentatious familiarity with detail, and - trained and seasoned mastery of the subject-and oh, the grace and - fluency of it! - </p> - <p> - "Well, finally somebody happened to notice that the guest was looking - dazed, and wasn't saying anything. So they stirred him up, of course. - Then that man came out with a good, honest, eloquent compliment that - made the Faculty blush. He said he was not worthy to sit in the company - of men like these; that he had been silent from admiration; that he had - been silent from another cause also—silent from shame—silent - from ignorance! 'For,' said he, 'I, who have lived eighteen years in New - Zealand and have served five in a professorship, and ought to know much - about that country, perceive, now, that I know almost nothing about it. - I say it with shame, that I have learned fifty times, yes, a hundred - times more about New Zealand in these two hours at this table than I - ever knew before in all the eighteen years put together. I was silent - because I could not help myself. What I knew about taxes, and policies, - and laws, and revenue, and products, and history, and all that multitude - of things, was but general, and ordinary, and vague-unscientific, in a - word—and it would have been insanity to expose it here to the - searching glare of your amazingly accurate and all-comprehensive - knowledge of those matters, gentlemen. I beg you to let me sit silent—as - becomes me. But do not change the subject; I can at least follow you, in - this one; whereas if you change to one which shall call out the full - strength of your mighty erudition, I shall be as one lost. If you know - all this about a remote little inconsequent patch like New Zealand, ah, - what wouldn't you know about any other Subject!'" - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p255.jpg (18K)" src="images/p255.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch27" id="ch27"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Man is the Only Animal that Blushes. Or needs to.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - <i>The universal brotherhood of man is our most precious possession, what - there is of it.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - FROM DIARY: - </p> - <p> - November 1—noon. A fine day, a brilliant sun. Warm in the sun, cold - in the shade—an icy breeze blowing out of the south. A solemn long - swell rolling up northward. It comes from the South Pole, with nothing in - the way to obstruct its march and tone its energy down. I have read - somewhere that an acute observer among the early explorers—Cook? or - Tasman?—accepted this majestic swell as trustworthy circumstantial - evidence that no important land lay to the southward, and so did not waste - time on a useless quest in that direction, but changed his course and went - searching elsewhere. - </p> - <p> - Afternoon. Passing between Tasmania (formerly Van Diemen's Land) and - neighboring islands—islands whence the poor exiled Tasmanian savages - used to gaze at their lost homeland and cry; and die of broken hearts. How - glad I am that all these native races are dead and gone, or nearly so. The - work was mercifully swift and horrible in some portions of Australia. As - far as Tasmania is concerned, the extermination was complete: not a native - is left. It was a strife of years, and decades of years. The Whites and - the Blacks hunted each other, ambushed each other, butchered each other. - The Blacks were not numerous. But they were wary, alert, cunning, and they - knew their country well. They lasted a long time, few as they were, and - inflicted much slaughter upon the Whites. - </p> - <p> - The Government wanted to save the Blacks from ultimate extermination, if - possible. One of its schemes was to capture them and coop them up, on a - neighboring island, under guard. Bodies of Whites volunteered for the - hunt, for the pay was good—L5 for each Black captured and delivered, - but the success achieved was not very satisfactory. The Black was naked, - and his body was greased. It was hard to get a grip on him that would - hold. The Whites moved about in armed bodies, and surprised little - families of natives, and did make captures; but it was suspected that in - these surprises half a dozen natives were killed to one caught—and - that was not what the Government desired. - </p> - <p> - Another scheme was to drive the natives into a corner of the island and - fence them in by a cordon of men placed in line across the country; but - the natives managed to slip through, constantly, and continue their - murders and arsons. - </p> - <p> - The governor warned these unlettered savages by printed proclamation that - they must stay in the desolate region officially appointed for them! The - proclamation was a dead letter; the savages could not read it. Afterward a - picture-proclamation was issued. It was painted up on boards, and these - were nailed to trees in the forest.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p258.jpg (53K)" src="images/p258.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Herewith is a photographic reproduction of this fashion-plate. - Substantially it means: - </p> - <p> - 1. The Governor wishes the Whites and the Blacks to love each other; - </p> - <p> - 2. He loves his black subjects; - </p> - <p> - 3. Blacks who kill Whites will be hanged; - </p> - <p> - 4. Whites who kill Blacks will be hanged. - </p> - <p> - Upon its several schemes the Government spent L30,000 and employed the - labors and ingenuities of several thousand Whites for a long time with - failure as a result. Then, at last, a quarter of a century after the - beginning of the troubles between the two races, the right man was found. - No, he found himself. This was George Augustus Robinson, called in history - "The Conciliator." He was not educated, and not conspicuous in any way. He - was a working bricklayer, in Hobart Town. But he must have been an amazing - personality; a man worth traveling far to see. It may be his counterpart - appears in history, but I do not know where to look for it. - </p> - <p> - He set himself this incredible task: to go out into the wilderness, the - jungle, and the mountain-retreats where the hunted and implacable savages - were hidden, and appear among them unarmed, speak the language of love and - of kindness to them, and persuade them to forsake their homes and the wild - free life that was so dear to them, and go with him and surrender to the - hated Whites and live under their watch and ward, and upon their charity - the rest of their lives! On its face it was the dream of a madman. - </p> - <p> - In the beginning, his moral-suasion project was sarcastically dubbed the - sugar plum speculation. If the scheme was striking, and new to the world's - experience, the situation was not less so. It was this. The White - population numbered 40,000 in 1831; the Black population numbered three - hundred. Not 300 warriors, but 300 men, women, and children. The Whites - were armed with guns, the Blacks with clubs and spears. The Whites had - fought the Blacks for a quarter of a century, and had tried every - thinkable way to capture, kill, or subdue them; and could not do it. If - white men of any race could have done it, these would have accomplished - it. But every scheme had failed, the splendid 300, the matchless 300 were - unconquered, and manifestly unconquerable. They would not yield, they - would listen to no terms, they would fight to the bitter end. Yet they had - no poet to keep up their heart, and sing the marvel of their magnificent - patriotism. - </p> - <p> - At the end of five-and-twenty years of hard fighting, the surviving 300 - naked patriots were still defiant, still persistent, still efficacious - with their rude weapons, and the Governor and the 40,000 knew not which - way to turn, nor what to do. - </p> - <p> - Then the Bricklayer—that wonderful man—proposed to go out into - the wilderness, with no weapon but his tongue, and no protection but his - honest eye and his humane heart; and track those embittered savages to - their lairs in the gloomy forests and among the mountain snows. Naturally, - he was considered a crank. But he was not quite that. In fact, he was a - good way short of that. He was building upon his long and intimate - knowledge of the native character. The deriders of his project were right—from - their standpoint—for they believed the natives to be mere wild - beasts; and Robinson was right, from his standpoint—for he believed - the natives to be human beings. The truth did really lie between the two. - The event proved that Robinson's judgment was soundest; but about once a - month for four years the event came near to giving the verdict to the - deriders, for about that frequently Robinson barely escaped falling under - the native spears. - </p> - <p> - But history shows that he had a thinking head, and was not a mere wild - sentimentalist. For instance, he wanted the war parties called in before - he started unarmed upon his mission of peace. He wanted the best chance of - success—not a half-chance. And he was very willing to have help; and - so, high rewards were advertised, for any who would go unarmed with him. - This opportunity was declined. Robinson persuaded some tamed natives of - both sexes to go with him—a strong evidence of his persuasive - powers, for those natives well knew that their destruction would be almost - certain. As it turned out, they had to face death over and over again. - </p> - <p> - Robinson and his little party had a difficult undertaking upon their - hands. They could not ride off, horseback, comfortably into the woods and - call Leonidas and his 300 together for a talk and a treaty the following - day; for the wild men were not in a body; they were scattered, immense - distances apart, over regions so desolate that even the birds could not - make a living with the chances offered—scattered in groups of - twenty, a dozen, half a dozen, even in groups of three. And the mission - must go on foot. Mr. Bonwick furnishes a description of those horrible - regions, whereby it will be seen that even fugitive gangs of the hardiest - and choicest human devils the world has seen—the convicts set apart - to people the "Hell of Macquarrie Harbor Station"—were never able, - but once, to survive the horrors of a march through them, but starving and - struggling, and fainting and failing, ate each other, and died: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Onward, still onward, was the order of the indomitable Robinson. No one - ignorant of the western country of Tasmania can form a correct idea of - the traveling difficulties. While I was resident in Hobart Town, the - Governor, Sir John Franklin, and his lady, undertook the western journey - to Macquarrie Harbor, and suffered terribly. One man who assisted to - carry her ladyship through the swamps, gave me his bitter experience of - its miseries. Several were disabled for life. No wonder that but one - party, escaping from Macquarrie Harbor convict settlement, arrived at - the civilized region in safety. Men perished in the scrub, were lost in - snow, or were devoured by their companions. This was the territory - traversed by Mr. Robinson and his Black guides. All honor to his - intrepidity, and their wonderful fidelity! When they had, in the depth - of winter, to cross deep and rapid rivers, pass among mountains six - thousand feet high, pierce dangerous thickets, and find food in a - country forsaken even by birds, we can realize their hardships. - </p> - <p> - "After a frightful journey by Cradle Mountain, and over the lofty - plateau of Middlesex Plains, the travelers experienced unwonted misery, - and the circumstances called forth the best qualities of the noble - little band. Mr. Robinson wrote afterwards to Mr. Secretary Burnett some - details of this passage of horrors. In that letter, of Oct 2, 1834, he - states that his Natives were very reluctant to go over the dreadful - mountain passes; that 'for seven successive days we continued traveling - over one solid body of snow;' that 'the snows were of incredible depth;' - that 'the Natives were frequently up to their middle in snow.' But still - the ill-clad, ill-fed, diseased, and way-worn men and women were - sustained by the cheerful voice of their unconquerable friend, and - responded most nobly to his call." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Mr. Bonwick says that Robinson's friendly capture of the Big River tribe - remember, it was a whole tribe—"was by far the grandest feature of - the war, and the crowning glory of his efforts." The word "war" was not - well chosen, and is misleading. There was war still, but only the Blacks - were conducting it—the Whites were holding off until Robinson could - give his scheme a fair trial. I think that we are to understand that the - friendly capture of that tribe was by far the most important thing, the - highest in value, that happened during the whole thirty years of truceless - hostilities; that it was a decisive thing, a peaceful Waterloo, the - surrender of the native Napoleon and his dreaded forces, the happy ending - of the long strife. For "that tribe was the terror of the colony," its - chief "the Black Douglas of Bush households." - </p> - <p> - Robinson knew that these formidable people were lurking somewhere, in some - remote corner of the hideous regions just described, and he and his - unarmed little party started on a tedious and perilous hunt for them. At - last, "there, under the shadows of the Frenchman's Cap, whose grim cone - rose five thousand feet in the uninhabited westward interior," they were - found. It was a serious moment. Robinson himself believed, for once, that - his mission, successful until now, was to end here in failure, and that - his own death-hour had struck. - </p> - <p> - The redoubtable chief stood in menacing attitude, with his eighteen-foot - spear poised; his warriors stood massed at his back, armed for battle, - their faces eloquent with their long-cherished loathing for white men. - "They rattled their spears and shouted their war-cry." Their women were - back of them, laden with supplies of weapons, and keeping their 150 eager - dogs quiet until the chief should give the signal to fall on. - </p> - <p> - "I think we shall soon be in the resurrection," whispered a member of - Robinson's little party. - </p> - <p> - "I think we shall," answered Robinson; then plucked up heart and began his - persuasions—in the tribe's own dialect, which surprised and pleased - the chief. Presently there was an interruption by the chief: - </p> - <p> - "Who are you?" - </p> - <p> - "We are gentlemen." - </p> - <p> - "Where are your guns?" - </p> - <p> - "We have none." - </p> - <p> - The warrior was astonished. - </p> - <p> - "Where your little guns?" (pistols). - </p> - <p> - "We have none." - </p> - <p> - A few minutes passed—in by-play—suspense—discussion - among the tribesmen—Robinson's tamed squaws ventured to cross the - line and begin persuasions upon the wild squaws. Then the chief stepped - back "to confer with the old women—the real arbiters of savage war." - Mr. Bonwick continues: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "As the fallen gladiator in the arena looks for the signal of life or - death from the president of the amphitheatre, so waited our friends in - anxious suspense while the conference continued. In a few minutes, - before a word was uttered, the women of the tribe threw up their arms - three times. This was the inviolable sign of peace! Down fell the - spears. Forward, with a heavy sigh of relief, and upward glance of - gratitude, came the friends of peace. The impulsive natives rushed forth - with tears and cries, as each saw in the other's ranks a loved one of - the past. - </p> - <p> - "It was a jubilee of joy. A festival followed. And, while tears flowed - at the recital of woe, a corrobory of pleasant laughter closed the - eventful day." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - In four years, without the spilling of a drop of blood, Robinson brought - them all in, willing captives, and delivered them to the white governor, - and ended the war which powder and bullets, and thousands of men to use - them, had prosecuted without result since 1804. - </p> - <p> - Marsyas charming the wild beasts with his music—that is fable; but - the miracle wrought by Robinson is fact. It is history—and - authentic; and surely, there is nothing greater, nothing more - reverence-compelling in the history of any country, ancient or modern. - </p> - <p> - And in memory of the greatest man Australasia ever developed or ever will - develop, there is a stately monument to George Augustus Robinson, the - Conciliator in—no, it is to another man, I forget his name. - </p> - <p> - However, Robertson's own generation honored him, and in manifesting it - honored themselves. The Government gave him a money-reward and a thousand - acres of land; and the people held mass-meetings and praised him and - emphasized their praise with a large subscription of money. - </p> - <p> - A good dramatic situation; but the curtain fell on another: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "When this desperate tribe was thus captured, there was much surprise to - find that the L30,000 of a little earlier day had been spent, and the - whole population of the colony placed under arms, in contention with an - opposing force of sixteen men with wooden spears! Yet such was the fact. - The celebrated Big River tribe, that had been raised by European fears - to a host, consisted of sixteen men, nine women, and one child. With a - knowledge of the mischief done by these few, their wonderful marches and - their widespread aggressions, their enemies cannot deny to them the - attributes of courage and military tact. A Wallace might harass a large - army with a small and determined band; but the contending parties were - at least equal in arms and civilization. The Zulus who fought us in - Africa, the Maories in New Zealand, the Arabs in the Soudan, were far - better provided with weapons, more advanced in the science of war, and - considerably more numerous, than the naked Tasmanians. Governor Arthur - rightly termed them a noble race." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - These were indeed wonderful people, the natives. They ought not to have - been wasted. They should have been crossed with the Whites. It would have - improved the Whites and done the Natives no harm. - </p> - <p> - But the Natives were wasted, poor heroic wild creatures. They were - gathered together in little settlements on neighboring islands, and - paternally cared for by the Government, and instructed in religion, and - deprived of tobacco, because the superintendent of the Sunday-school was - not a smoker, and so considered smoking immoral. - </p> - <p> - The Natives were not used to clothes, and houses, and regular hours, and - church, and school, and Sunday-school, and work, and the other misplaced - persecutions of civilization, and they pined for their lost home and their - wild free life. Too late they repented that they had traded that heaven - for this hell. They sat homesick on their alien crags, and day by day - gazed out through their tears over the sea with unappeasable longing - toward the hazy bulk which was the specter of what had been their - paradise; one by one their hearts broke and they died. - </p> - <p> - In a very few years nothing but a scant remnant remained alive. A handful - lingered along into age. In 1864 the last man died, in 1876 the last woman - died, and the Spartans of Australasia were extinct.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p266.jpg (40K)" src="images/p266.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The Whites always mean well when they take human fish out of the ocean and - try to make them dry and warm and happy and comfortable in a chicken coop; - but the kindest-hearted white man can always be depended on to prove - himself inadequate when he deals with savages. He cannot turn the - situation around and imagine how he would like it to have a well-meaning - savage transfer him from his house and his church and his clothes and his - books and his choice food to a hideous wilderness of sand and rocks and - snow, and ice and sleet and storm and blistering sun, with no shelter, no - bed, no covering for his and his family's naked bodies, and nothing to eat - but snakes and grubs and 'offal. This would be a hell to him; and if he - had any wisdom he would know that his own civilization is a hell to the - savage—but he hasn't any, and has never had any; and for lack of it - he shut up those poor natives in the unimaginable perdition of his - civilization, committing his crime with the very best intentions, and saw - those poor creatures waste away under his tortures; and gazed at it, - vaguely troubled and sorrowful, and wondered what could be the matter with - them. One is almost betrayed into respecting those criminals, they were so - sincerely kind, and tender, and humane; and well-meaning. - </p> - <p> - <i>They</i> didn't know why those exiled savages faded away, and they did - their honest best to reason it out. And one man, in a like case in New - South Wales, did reason it out and arrive at a solution: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - <i>"It is from the wrath of God, which is revealed from heaven against - cold ungodliness and unrighteousness of men."</i> - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That settles it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch28" id="ch28"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Let us be thankful for the fools. But for them the rest of us could not - succeed.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The aphorism does really seem true: "Given the Circumstances, the Man will - appear." But the man musn't appear ahead of time, or it will spoil - everything. In Robinson's case the Moment had been approaching for a - quarter of a century—and meantime the future Conciliator was - tranquilly laying bricks in Hobart. When all other means had failed, the - Moment had arrived, and the Bricklayer put down his trowel and came - forward. Earlier he would have been jeered back to his trowel again. It - reminds me of a tale that was told me by a Kentuckian on the train when we - were crossing Montana. He said the tale was current in Louisville years - ago. He thought it had been in print, but could not remember. At any rate, - in substance it was this, as nearly as I can call it back to mind. - </p> - <p> - A few years before the outbreak of the Civil War it began to appear that - Memphis, Tennessee, was going to be a great tobacco entrepot—the - wise could see the signs of it. At that time Memphis had a wharf boat, of - course. There was a paved sloping wharf, for the accommodation of freight, - but the steamers landed on the outside of the wharfboat, and all loading - and unloading was done across it, between steamer and shore. A number of - wharfboat clerks were needed, and part of the time, every day, they were - very busy, and part of the time tediously idle. They were boiling over - with youth and spirits, and they had to make the intervals of idleness - endurable in some way; and as a rule, they did it by contriving practical - jokes and playing them upon each other. - </p> - <p> - The favorite butt for the jokes was Ed Jackson, because he played none - himself, and was easy game for other people's—for he always believed - whatever was told him. - </p> - <p> - One day he told the others his scheme for his holiday. He was not going - fishing or hunting this time—no, he had thought out a better plan. - Out of his $40 a month he had saved enough for his purpose, in an - economical way, and he was going to have a look at New York. - </p> - <p> - It was a great and surprising idea. It meant travel—immense travel—in - those days it meant seeing the world; it was the equivalent of a voyage - around it in ours. At first the other youths thought his mind was - affected, but when they found that he was in earnest, the next thing to be - thought of was, what sort of opportunity this venture might afford for a - practical joke. - </p> - <p> - The young men studied over the matter, then held a secret consultation and - made a plan. The idea was, that one of the conspirators should offer Ed a - letter of introduction to Commodore Vanderbilt, and trick him into - delivering it. It would be easy to do this. But what would Ed do when he - got back to Memphis? That was a serious matter. He was good-hearted, and - had always taken the jokes patiently; but they had been jokes which did - not humiliate him, did not bring him to shame; whereas, this would be a - cruel one in that way, and to play it was to meddle with fire; for with - all his good nature, Ed was a Southerner—and the English of that - was, that when he came back he would kill as many of the conspirators as - he could before falling himself. However, the chances must be taken—it - wouldn't do to waste such a joke as that. - </p> - <p> - So the letter was prepared with great care and elaboration. It was signed - Alfred Fairchild, and was written in an easy and friendly spirit. It - stated that the bearer was the bosom friend of the writer's son, and was - of good parts and sterling character, and it begged the Commodore to be - kind to the young stranger for the writer's sake. It went on to say, "You - may have forgotten me, in this long stretch of time, but you will easily - call me back out of your boyhood memories when I remind you of how we - robbed old Stevenson's orchard that night; and how, while he was chasing - down the road after us, we cut across the field and doubled back and sold - his own apples to his own cook for a hat-full of doughnuts; and the time - that we——" and so forth and so on, bringing in names of - imaginary comrades, and detailing all sorts of wild and absurd and, of - course, wholly imaginary schoolboy pranks and adventures, but putting them - into lively and telling shape. - </p> - <p> - With all gravity Ed was asked if he would like to have a letter to - Commodore Vanderbilt, the great millionaire. It was expected that the - question would astonish Ed, and it did. - </p> - <p> - "What? Do you know that extraordinary man?" - </p> - <p> - "No; but my father does. They were schoolboys together. And if you like, - I'll write and ask father. I know he'll be glad to give it to you for my - sake." - </p> - <p> - Ed could not find words capable of expressing his gratitude and delight. - The three days passed, and the letter was put into his bands. He started - on his trip, still pouring out his thanks while he shook good-bye all - around. And when he was out of sight his comrades let fly their laughter - in a storm of happy satisfaction—and then quieted down, and were - less happy, less satisfied. For the old doubts as to the wisdom of this - deception began to intrude again. - </p> - <p> - Arrived in New York, Ed found his way to Commodore Vanderbilt's business - quarters, and was ushered into a large anteroom, where a score of people - were patiently awaiting their turn for a two-minute interview with the - millionaire in his private office. A servant asked for Ed's card, and got - the letter instead. Ed was sent for a moment later, and found Mr. - Vanderbilt alone, with the letter—open—in his hand. - </p> - <p> - "Pray sit down, Mr. —er—" - </p> - <p> - "Jackson." - </p> - <p> - "Ah—sit down, Mr. Jackson. By the opening sentences it seems to be a - letter from an old friend. Allow me—I will run my eye through it. He - says he says—why, who is it?" He turned the sheet and found the - signature. "Alfred Fairchild—hm—Fairchild—I don't recall - the name. But that is nothing—a thousand names have gone from me. He - says—he says-hm-hmoh, dear, but it's good! Oh, it's rare! I don't - quite remember it, but I seem to it'll all come back to me presently. He - says—he says—hm—hm-oh, but that was a game! Oh, - spl-endid! How it carries me back! It's all dim, of course it's a long - time ago—and the names—some of the names are wavery and - indistinct—but sho', I know it happened—I can feel it! and - lord, how it warms my heart, and brings back my lost youth! Well, well, - well, I've got to come back into this work-a-day world now—business - presses and people are waiting—I'll keep the rest for bed to-night, - and live my youth over again. And you'll thank Fairchild for me when you - see him—I used to call him Alf, I think—and you'll give him my - gratitude for—what this letter has done for the tired spirit of a - hard-worked man; and tell him there isn't anything that I can do for him - or any friend of his that I won't do. And as for you, my lad, you are my - guest; you can't stop at any hotel in New York. Sit. where you are a - little while, till I get through with these people, then we'll go home. - I'll take care of you, my boy—make yourself easy as to that." - </p> - <p> - Ed stayed a week, and had an immense time—and never suspected that - the Commodore's shrewd eye was on him, and that he was daily being weighed - and measured and analyzed and tried and tested. - </p> - <p> - Yes, he had an immense time; and never wrote home, but saved it all up to - tell when he should get back. Twice, with proper modesty and decency, he - proposed to end his visit, but the Commodore said, "No—wait; leave - it to me; I'll tell you when to go." - </p> - <p> - In those days the Commodore was making some of those vast combinations of - his—consolidations of warring odds and ends of railroads into - harmonious systems, and concentrations of floating and rudderless commerce - in effective centers—and among other things his farseeing eye had - detected the convergence of that huge tobacco-commerce, already spoken of, - toward Memphis, and he had resolved to set his grasp upon it and make it - his own. - </p> - <p> - The week came to an end. Then the Commodore said: - </p> - <p> - "Now you can start home. But first we will have some more talk about that - tobacco matter. I know you now. I know your abilities as well as you know - them yourself—perhaps better. You understand that tobacco matter; - you understand that I am going to take possession of it, and you also - understand the plans which I have matured for doing it. What I want is a - man who knows my mind, and is qualified to represent me in Memphis, and be - in supreme command of that important business—and I appoint you." - </p> - <p> - "Me!" - </p> - <p> - "Yes. Your salary will be high—of course-for you are representing - me. Later you will earn increases of it, and will get them. You will need - a small army of assistants; choose them yourself—and carefully. Take - no man for friendship's sake; but, all things being equal, take the man - you know, take your friend, in preference to the stranger." After some - further talk under this head, the Commodore said: - </p> - <p> - "Good-bye, my boy, and thank Alf for me, for sending you to me." - </p> - <p> - When Ed reached Memphis he rushed down to the wharf in a fever to tell his - great news and thank the boys over and over again for thinking to give him - the letter to Mr. Vanderbilt. It happened to be one of those idle times. - Blazing hot noonday, and no sign of life on the wharf. But as Ed threaded - his way among the freight piles, he saw a white linen figure stretched in - slumber upon a pile of grain-sacks under an awning, and said to himself, - "That's one of them," and hastened his step; next, he said, "It's Charley—it's - Fairchild good"; and the next moment laid an affectionate hand on the - sleeper's shoulder. The eyes opened lazily, took one glance, the face - blanched, the form whirled itself from the sack-pile, and in an instant Ed - was alone and Fairchild was flying for the wharf-boat like the wind! - </p> - <p> - Ed was dazed, stupefied. Was Fairchild crazy? What could be the meaning of - this? He started slow and dreamily down toward the wharf-boat; turned the - corner of a freight-pile and came suddenly upon two of the boys. They were - lightly laughing over some pleasant matter; they heard his step, and - glanced up just as he discovered them; the laugh died abruptly; and before - Ed could speak they were off, and sailing over barrels and bales like - hunted deer. Again Ed was paralyzed. Had the boys all gone mad? What could - be the explanation of this extraordinary conduct? And so, dreaming along, - he reached the wharf-boat, and stepped aboard—nothing but silence - there, and vacancy. He crossed the deck, turned the corner to go down the - outer guard, heard a fervent— - </p> - <p> - "O lord!" and saw a white linen form plunge overboard.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p274.jpg (62K)" src="images/p274.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The youth came up coughing and strangling, and cried out— - </p> - <p> - "Go 'way from here! You let me alone. I didn't do it, I swear I didn't!" - </p> - <p> - "Didn't do what?" - </p> - <p> - "Give you the——" - </p> - <p> - "Never mind what you didn't do—come out of that! What makes you all - act so? What have I done?" - </p> - <p> - "You? Why you haven't done anything. But——" - </p> - <p> - "Well, then, what have you got against me? What do you all treat me so - for?" - </p> - <p> - "I—er—but haven't you got anything against us?" - </p> - <p> - "Of course not. What put such a thing into your head?" - </p> - <p> - "Honor bright—you haven't? - </p> - <p> - "Honor bright." - </p> - <p> - "Swear it!" - </p> - <p> - "I don't know what in the world you mean, but I swear it, anyway." - </p> - <p> - "And you'll shake hands with me?" - </p> - <p> - "Goodness knows I'll be glad to! Why, I'm just starving to shake hands - with somebody!" - </p> - <p> - The swimmer muttered, "Hang him, he smelt a rat and never delivered the - letter!—but it's all right, I'm not going to fetch up the subject." - And he crawled out and came dripping and draining to shake hands. First - one and then another of the conspirators showed up cautiously—armed - to the teeth—took in the amicable situation, then ventured warily - forward and joined the love-feast. - </p> - <p> - And to Ed's eager inquiry as to what made them act as they had been - acting, they answered evasively, and pretended that they had put it up as - a joke, to see what he would do. It was the best explanation they could - invent at such short notice. And each said to himself, "He never delivered - that letter, and the joke is on us, if he only knew it or we were dull - enough to come out and tell." - </p> - <p> - Then, of course, they wanted to know all about the trip; and he said— - </p> - <p> - "Come right up on the boiler deck and order the drinks—it's my - treat. I'm going to tell you all about it. And to-night it's my treat - again—and we'll have oysters and a time!" - </p> - <p> - When the drinks were brought and cigars lighted, Ed said: - </p> - <p> - "Well, when I delivered the letter to Mr. Vanderbilt——" - </p> - <p> - "Great Scott!" - </p> - <p> - "Gracious, how you scared me. What's the matter?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh—er—nothing. Nothing—it was a tack in the - chair-seat," said one. - </p> - <p> - "But you all said it. However, no matter. When I delivered the letter——" - </p> - <p> - "Did you deliver it?" And they looked at each other as people might who - thought that maybe they were dreaming. - </p> - <p> - Then they settled to listening; and as the story deepened and its marvels - grew, the amazement of it made them dumb, and the interest of it took - their breath. They hardly uttered a whisper during two hours, but sat like - petrifactions and drank in the immortal romance. At last the tale was - ended, and Ed said— - </p> - <p> - "And it's all owing to you, boys, and you'll never find me ungrateful—bless - your hearts, the best friends a fellow ever had! You'll all have places; I - want every one of you. I know you—I know you 'by the back,' as the - gamblers say. You're jokers, and all that, but you're sterling, with the - hallmark on. And Charley Fairchild, you shall be my first assistant and - right hand, because of your first-class ability, and because you got me - the letter, and for your father's sake who wrote it for me, and to please - Mr. Vanderbilt, who said it would! And here's to that great man—drink - hearty!" - </p> - <p> - Yes, when the Moment comes, the Man appears—even if he is a thousand - miles away, and has to be discovered by a practical joke.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch29" id="ch29"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXVIX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>When people do not respect us we are sharply offended; yet deep down in - his private heart no man much respects himself.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Necessarily, the human interest is the first interest in the log-book of - any country. The annals of Tasmania, in whose shadow we were sailing, are - lurid with that feature. Tasmania was a convict-dump, in old times; this - has been indicated in the account of the Conciliator, where reference is - made to vain attempts of desperate convicts to win to permanent freedom, - after escaping from Macquarrie Harbor and the "Gates of Hell." In the - early days Tasmania had a great population of convicts, of both sexes and - all ages, and a bitter hard life they had. In one spot there was a - settlement of juvenile convicts—children—who had been sent - thither from their home and their friends on the other side of the globe - to expiate their "crimes."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p278.jpg (64K)" src="images/p278.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In due course our ship entered the estuary called the Derwent, at whose - head stands Hobart, the capital of Tasmania. The Derwent's shores furnish - scenery of an interesting sort. The historian Laurie, whose book, "The - Story of Australasia," is just out, invoices its features with - considerable truth and intemperance: "The marvelous picturesqueness of - every point of view, combined with the clear balmy atmosphere and the - transparency of the ocean depths, must have delighted and deeply - impressed" the early explorers. "If the rock-bound coasts, sullen, - defiant, and lowering, seemed uninviting, these were occasionally broken - into charmingly alluring coves floored with golden sand, clad with - evergreen shrubbery, and adorned with every variety of indigenous wattle, - she-oak, wild flower, and fern, from the delicately graceful 'maiden-hair' - to the palm-like 'old man'; while the majestic gum-tree, clean and smooth - as the mast of 'some tall ammiral' pierces the clear air to the height of - 230 feet or more." - </p> - <p> - It looked so to me. "Coasting along Tasman's Peninsula, what a shock of - pleasant wonder must have struck the early mariner on suddenly sighting - Cape Pillar, with its cluster of black-ribbed basaltic columns rising to a - height of 900 feet, the hydra head wreathed in a turban of fleecy cloud, - the base lashed by jealous waves spouting angry fountains of foam." - </p> - <p> - That is well enough, but I did not suppose those snags were 900 feet high. - Still they were a very fine show. They stood boldly out by themselves, and - made a fascinatingly odd spectacle. But there was nothing about their - appearance to suggest the heads of a hydra. They looked like a row of - lofty slabs with their upper ends tapered to the shape of a carving-knife - point; in fact, the early voyager, ignorant of their great height, might - have mistaken them for a rusty old rank of piles that had sagged this way - and that out of the perpendicular. - </p> - <p> - The Peninsula is lofty, rocky, and densely clothed with scrub, or brush, - or both. It is joined to the main by a low neck. At this junction was - formerly a convict station called Port Arthur—a place hard to escape - from. Behind it was the wilderness of scrub, in which a fugitive would - soon starve; in front was the narrow neck, with a cordon of chained dogs - across it, and a line of lanterns, and a fence of living guards, armed. We - saw the place as we swept by—that is, we had a glimpse of what we - were told was the entrance to Port Arthur. The glimpse was worth - something, as a remembrancer, but that was all. - </p> - <p> - The voyage thence up the Derwent Frith displays a grand succession of - fairy visions, in its entire length elsewhere unequaled. In gliding over - the deep blue sea studded with lovely islets luxuriant to the water's - edge, one is at a loss which scene to choose for contemplation and to - admire most. When the Huon and Bruni have been passed, there seems no - possible chance of a rival; but suddenly Mount Wellington, massive and - noble like his brother Etna, literally heaves in sight, sternly guarded on - either hand by Mounts Nelson and Rumney; presently we arrive at Sullivan's - Cove—Hobart! - </p> - <p> - It is an attractive town. It sits on low hills that slope to the harbor—a - harbor that looks like a river, and is as smooth as one. Its still surface - is pictured with dainty reflections of boats and grassy banks and - luxuriant foliage. Back of the town rise highlands that are clothed in - woodland loveliness, and over the way is that noble mountain, Wellington, - a stately bulk, a most majestic pile. How beautiful is the whole region, - for form, and grouping, and opulence, and freshness of foliage, and - variety of color, and grace and shapeliness of the hills, the capes, the - promontories; and then, the splendor of the sunlight, the dim rich - distances, the charm of the water-glimpses! And it was in this paradise - that the yellow-liveried convicts were landed, and the Corps-bandits - quartered, and the wanton slaughter of the kangaroo-chasing black - innocents consummated on that autumn day in May, in the brutish old time. - It was all out of keeping with the place, a sort of bringing of heaven and - hell together. - </p> - <p> - The remembrance of this paradise reminds me that it was at Hobart that we - struck the head of the procession of Junior Englands. We were to encounter - other sections of it in New Zealand, presently, and others later in Natal. - Wherever the exiled Englishman can find in his new home resemblances to - his old one, he is touched to the marrow of his being; the love that is in - his heart inspires his imagination, and these allied forces transfigure - those resemblances into authentic duplicates of the revered originals. It - is beautiful, the feeling which works this enchantment, and it compels - one's homage; compels it, and also compels one's assent—compels it - always—even when, as happens sometimes, one does not see the - resemblances as clearly as does the exile who is pointing them out. - </p> - <p> - The resemblances do exist, it is quite true; and often they cunningly - approximate the originals—but after all, in the matter of certain - physical patent rights there is only one England. Now that I have sampled - the globe, I am not in doubt. There is a beauty of Switzerland, and it is - repeated in the glaciers and snowy ranges of many parts of the earth; - there is a beauty of the fiord, and it is repeated in New Zealand and - Alaska; there is a beauty of Hawaii, and it is repeated in ten thousand - islands of the Southern seas; there is a beauty of the prairie and the - plain, and it is repeated here and there in the earth; each of these is - worshipful, each is perfect in its way, yet holds no monopoly of its - beauty; but that beauty which is England is alone—it has no - duplicate. - </p> - <p> - It is made up of very simple details—just grass, and trees, and - shrubs, and roads, and hedges, and gardens, and houses, and vines, and - churches, and castles, and here and there a ruin—and over it all a - mellow dream-haze of history. But its beauty is incomparable, and all its - own. - </p> - <p> - Hobart has a peculiarity—it is the neatest town that the sun shines - on; and I incline to believe that it is also the cleanest. However that - may be, its supremacy in neatness is not to be questioned. There cannot be - another town in the world that has no shabby exteriors; no rickety gates - and fences, no neglected houses crumbling to ruin, no crazy and unsightly - sheds, no weed-grown front-yards of the poor, no back-yards littered with - tin cans and old boots and empty bottles, no rubbish in the gutters, no - clutter on the sidewalks, no outer-borders fraying out into dirty lanes - and tin-patched huts. No, in Hobart all the aspects are tidy, and all a - comfort to the eye; the modestest cottage looks combed and brushed, and - has its vines, its flowers, its neat fence, its neat gate, its comely cat - asleep on the window ledge. - </p> - <p> - We had a glimpse of the museum, by courtesy of the American gentleman who - is curator of it. It has samples of half-a-dozen different kinds of - marsupials—[A marsupial is a plantigrade vertebrate whose specialty - is its pocket. In some countries it is extinct, in the others it is rare. - The first American marsupials were Stephen Girard, Mr. Astor and the - opossum; the principal marsupials of the Southern Hemisphere are Mr. - Rhodes, and the kangaroo. I, myself, am the latest marsupial. Also, I - might boast that I have the largest pocket of them all. But there is - nothing in that.]—one, the "Tasmanian devil;" that is, I think he - was one of them. And there was a fish with lungs. When the water dries up - it can live in the mud. Most curious of all was a parrot that kills sheep. - On one great sheep-run this bird killed a thousand sheep in a whole year. - He doesn't want the whole sheep, but only the kidney-fat. This restricted - taste makes him an expensive bird to support. To get the fat he drives his - beak in and rips it out; the wound is mortal. This parrot furnishes a - notable example of evolution brought about by changed conditions. When the - sheep culture was introduced, it presently brought famine to the parrot by - exterminating a kind of grub which had always thitherto been the parrot's - diet. The miseries of hunger made the bird willing to eat raw flesh, since - it could get no other food, and it began to pick remnants of meat from - sheep skins hung out on the fences to dry. It soon came to prefer sheep - meat to any other food, and by and by it came to prefer the kidney-fat to - any other detail of the sheep. The parrot's bill was not well shaped for - digging out the fat, but Nature fixed that matter; she altered the bill's - shape, and now the parrot can dig out kidney-fat better than the Chief - Justice of the Supreme Court, or anybody else, for that matter—even - an Admiral. - </p> - <p> - And there was another curiosity—quite a stunning one, I thought: - Arrow-heads and knives just like those which Primeval Man made out of - flint, and thought he had done such a wonderful thing—yes, and has - been humored and coddled in that superstition by this age of admiring - scientists until there is probably no living with him in the other world - by now. Yet here is his finest and nicest work exactly duplicated in our - day; and by people who have never heard of him or his works: by aborigines - who lived in the islands of these seas, within our time. And they not only - duplicated those works of art but did it in the brittlest and most - treacherous of substances—glass: made them out of old brandy bottles - flung out of the British camps; millions of tons of them. It is time for - Primeval Man to make a little less noise, now. He has had his day. He is - not what he used to be. We had a drive through a bloomy and odorous - fairy-land, to the Refuge for the Indigent—a spacious and - comfortable home, with hospitals, etc., for both sexes. There was a crowd - in there, of the oldest people I have ever seen. It was like being - suddenly set down in a new world—a weird world where Youth has never - been, a world sacred to Age, and bowed forms, and wrinkles. Out of the 359 - persons present, 223 were ex-convicts, and could have told stirring tales, - no doubt, if they had been minded to talk; 42 of the 359 were past 80, and - several were close upon 90; the average age at death there is 76 years. As - for me, I have no use for that place; it is too healthy. Seventy is old - enough—after that, there is too much risk. Youth and gaiety might - vanish, any day—and then, what is left? Death in life; death without - its privileges, death without its benefits. There were 185 women in that - Refuge, and 81 of them were ex-convicts. - </p> - <p> - The steamer disappointed us. Instead of making a long visit at Hobart, as - usual, she made a short one. So we got but a glimpse of Tasmania, and then - moved on.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch30" id="ch30"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Nature makes the locust with an appetite for crops; man would have made - him with an appetite for sand.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We spent part of an afternoon and a night at sea, and reached Bluff, in - New Zealand, early in the morning. Bluff is at the bottom of the middle - island, and is away down south, nearly forty-seven degrees below the - equator. It lies as far south of the line as Quebec lies north of it, and - the climates of the two should be alike; but for some reason or other it - has not been so arranged. Quebec is hot in the summer and cold in the - winter, but Bluff's climate is less intense; the cold weather is not very - cold, the hot weather is not very hot; and the difference between the - hottest month and the coldest is but 17 degrees Fahrenheit. - </p> - <p> - In New Zealand the rabbit plague began at Bluff. The man who introduced - the rabbit there was banqueted and lauded; but they would hang him, now, - if they could get him. In England the natural enemy of the rabbit is - detested and persecuted; in the Bluff region the natural enemy of the - rabbit is honored, and his person is sacred. The rabbit's natural enemy in - England is the poacher, in Bluff its natural enemy is the stoat, the - weasel, the ferret, the cat, and the mongoose. In England any person below - the Heir who is caught with a rabbit in his possession must satisfactorily - explain how it got there, or he will suffer fine and imprisonment, - together with extinction of his peerage; in Bluff, the cat found with a - rabbit in its possession does not have to explain—everybody looks - the other way; the person caught noticing would suffer fine and - imprisonment, with extinction of peerage. This is a sure way to undermine - the moral fabric of a cat. Thirty years from now there will not be a moral - cat in New Zealand. Some think there is none there now. In England the - poacher is watched, tracked, hunted—he dare not show his face; in - Bluff the cat, the weasel, the stoat, and the mongoose go up and down, - whither they will, unmolested. By a law of the legislature, posted where - all may read, it is decreed that any person found in possession of one of - these creatures (dead) must satisfactorily explain the circumstances or - pay a fine of not less than L5, nor more than L20. The revenue from this - source is not large. Persons who want to pay a hundred dollars for a dead - cat are getting rarer and rarer every day. This is bad, for the revenue - was to go to the endowment of a University. All governments are more or - less short-sighted: in England they fine the poacher, whereas he ought to - be banished to New Zealand. New Zealand would pay his way, and give him - wages. - </p> - <p> - It was from Bluff that we ought to have cut across to the west coast and - visited the New Zealand Switzerland, a land of superb scenery, made up of - snowy grandeurs, and mighty glaciers, and beautiful lakes; and over there, - also, are the wonderful rivals of the Norwegian and Alaskan fiords; and - for neighbor, a waterfall of 1,900 feet; but we were obliged to postpone - the trip to some later and indefinite time.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p286.jpg (11K)" src="images/p286.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - November 6. A lovely summer morning; brilliant blue sky. A few miles out - from Invercargill, passed through vast level green expanses snowed over - with sheep. Fine to see. The green, deep and very vivid sometimes; at - other times less so, but delicate and lovely. A passenger reminds me that - I am in "the England of the Far South." - </p> - <p> - Dunedin, same date. The town justifies Michael Davitt's praises. The - people are Scotch. They stopped here on their way from home to heaven—thinking - they had arrived. The population is stated at 40,000, by Malcolm Ross, - journalist; stated by an M. P. at 60,000. A journalist cannot lie. - </p> - <p> - To the residence of Dr. Hockin. He has a fine collection of books relating - to New Zealand; and his house is a museum of Maori art and antiquities. He - has pictures and prints in color of many native chiefs of the past—some - of them of note in history. There is nothing of the savage in the faces; - nothing could be finer than these men's features, nothing more - intellectual than these faces, nothing more masculine, nothing nobler than - their aspect. The aboriginals of Australia and Tasmania looked the savage, - but these chiefs looked like Roman patricians. The tattooing in these - portraits ought to suggest the savage, of course, but it does not. The - designs are so flowing and graceful and beautiful that they are a most - satisfactory decoration. It takes but fifteen minutes to get reconciled to - the tattooing, and but fifteen more to perceive that it is just the thing. - After that, the undecorated European face is unpleasant and ignoble.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p287.jpg (27K)" src="images/p287.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Dr. Hockiun gave us a ghastly curiosity—a lignified caterpillar with - a plant growing out of the back of its neck—a plant with a slender - stem 4 inches high. It happened not by accident, but by design—Nature's - design. This caterpillar was in the act of loyally carrying out a law - inflicted upon him by Nature—a law purposely inflicted upon him to - get him into trouble—a law which was a trap; in pursuance of this - law he made the proper preparations for turning himself into a night-moth; - that is to say, he dug a little trench, a little grave, and then stretched - himself out in it on his stomach and partially buried himself—then - Nature was ready for him. She blew the spores of a peculiar fungus through - the air with a purpose. Some of them fell into a crease in the back of the - caterpillar's neck, and began to sprout and grow—for there was soil - there—he had not washed his neck. The roots forced themselves down - into the worm's person, and rearward along through its body, sucking up - the creature's juices for sap; the worm slowly died, and turned to wood. - And here he was now, a wooden caterpillar, with every detail of his former - physique delicately and exactly preserved and perpetuated, and with that - stem standing up out of him for his monument—monument commemorative - of his own loyalty and of Nature's unfair return for it. - </p> - <p> - Nature is always acting like that. Mrs. X. said (of course) that the - caterpillar was not conscious and didn't suffer. She should have known - better. No caterpillar can deceive Nature. If this one couldn't suffer, - Nature would have known it and would have hunted up another caterpillar. - Not that she would have let this one go, merely because it was defective. - No. She would have waited and let him turn into a night-moth; and then - fried him in the candle. - </p> - <p> - Nature cakes a fish's eyes over with parasites, so that it shan't be able - to avoid its enemies or find its food. She sends parasites into a - star-fish's system, which clog up its prongs and swell them and make them - so uncomfortable that the poor creature delivers itself from the prong to - ease its misery; and presently it has to part with another prong for the - sake of comfort, and finally with a third. If it re-grows the prongs, the - parasite returns and the same thing is repeated. And finally, when the - ability to reproduce prongs is lost through age, that poor old star-fish - can't get around any more, and so it dies of starvation. - </p> - <p> - In Australia is prevalent a horrible disease due to an "unperfected - tapeworm." Unperfected—that is what they call it, I do not know why, - for it transacts business just as well as if it were finished and frescoed - and gilded, and all that. - </p> - <p> - November 9. To the museum and public picture gallery with the president of - the Society of Artists. Some fine pictures there, lent by the S. of A. - several of them they bought, the others came to them by gift. Next, to the - gallery of the S. of A.—annual exhibition—just opened. Fine. - Think of a town like this having two such collections as this, and a - Society of Artists. It is so all over Australasia. If it were a monarchy - one might understand it. I mean an absolute monarchy, where it isn't - necessary to vote money, but take it. Then art flourishes. But these - colonies are republics—republics with a wide suffrage; voters of - both sexes, this one of New Zealand. In republics, neither the government - nor the rich private citizen is much given to propagating art. All over - Australasia pictures by famous European artists are bought for the public - galleries by the State and by societies of citizens. Living citizens—not - dead ones. They rob themselves to give, not their heirs. This S. of A. - here owns its building built it by subscription.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch31" id="ch31"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The spirit of wrath—not the words—is the sin; and the - spirit of wrath is cursing. We begin to swear before we can talk.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - November 11. On the road. This train-express goes twenty and one-half - miles an hour, schedule time; but it is fast enough, the outlook upon sea - and land is so interesting, and the cars so comfortable. They are not - English, and not American; they are the Swiss combination of the two. A - narrow and railed porch along the side, where a person can walk up and - down. A lavatory in each car. This is progress; this is nineteenth-century - spirit. In New Zealand, these fast expresses run twice a week. It is well - to know this if you want to be a bird and fly through the country at a - 20-mile gait; otherwise you may start on one of the five wrong days, and - then you will get a train that can't overtake its own shadow. - </p> - <p> - By contrast, these pleasant cars call to mind the branch-road cars at - Maryborough, Australia, and the passengers' talk about the branch-road and - the hotel. - </p> - <p> - Somewhere on the road to Maryborough I changed for a while to a - smoking-carriage. There were two gentlemen there; both riding backward, - one at each end of the compartment. They were acquaintances of each other. - I sat down facing the one that sat at the starboard window. He had a good - face, and a friendly look, and I judged from his dress that he was a - dissenting minister. He was along toward fifty. Of his own motion he - struck a match, and shaded it with his hand for me to light my cigar. I - take the rest from my diary: - </p> - <p> - In order to start conversation I asked him something about Maryborough. He - said, in a most pleasant—even musical voice, but with quiet and - cultured decision: - </p> - <p> - "It's a charming town, with a hell of a hotel." - </p> - <p> - I was astonished. It seemed so odd to hear a minister swear out loud. He - went placidly on: - </p> - <p> - "It's the worst hotel in Australia. Well, one may go further, and say in - Australasia."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p292.jpg (66K)" src="images/p292.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "Bad beds?" - </p> - <p> - "No—none at all. Just sand-bags." - </p> - <p> - "The pillows, too?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, the pillows, too. Just sand. And not a good quality of sand. It - packs too hard, and has never been screened. There is too much gravel in - it. It is like sleeping on nuts." - </p> - <p> - "Isn't there any good sand?" - </p> - <p> - "Plenty of it. There is as good bed-sand in this region as the world can - furnish. Aerated sand—and loose; but they won't buy it. They want - something that will pack solid, and petrify." - </p> - <p> - "How are the rooms?" - </p> - <p> - "Eight feet square; and a sheet of iced oil-cloth to step on in the - morning when you get out of the sand-quarry." - </p> - <p> - "As to lights?" - </p> - <p> - "Coal-oil lamp." - </p> - <p> - "A good one?" - </p> - <p> - "No. It's the kind that sheds a gloom." - </p> - <p> - "I like a lamp that burns all night." - </p> - <p> - "This one won't. You must blow it out early." - </p> - <p> - "That is bad. One might want it again in the night. Can't find it in the - dark." - </p> - <p> - "There's no trouble; you can find it by the stench." - </p> - <p> - "Wardrobe?" - </p> - <p> - "Two nails on the door to hang seven suits of clothes on if you've got - them." - </p> - <p> - "Bells?" - </p> - <p> - "There aren't any." - </p> - <p> - "What do you do when you want service?" - </p> - <p> - "Shout. But it won't fetch anybody." - </p> - <p> - "Suppose you want the chambermaid to empty the slopjar?" - </p> - <p> - "There isn't any slop-jar. The hotels don't keep them. That is, outside of - Sydney and Melbourne." - </p> - <p> - "Yes, I knew that. I was only talking. It's the oddest thing in Australia. - Another thing: I've got to get up in the dark, in the morning, to take the - 5 o'clock train. Now if the boots——" - </p> - <p> - "There isn't any." - </p> - <p> - "Well, the porter." - </p> - <p> - "There isn't any." - </p> - <p> - "But who will call me?" - </p> - <p> - "Nobody. You'll call yourself. And you'll light yourself, too. There'll - not be a light burning in the halls or anywhere. And if you don't carry a - light, you'll break your neck." - </p> - <p> - "But who will help me down with my baggage?" - </p> - <p> - "Nobody. However, I will tell you what to do. In Maryborough there's an - American who has lived there half a lifetime; a fine man, and prosperous - and popular. He will be on the lookout for you; you won't have any - trouble. Sleep in peace; he will rout you out, and you will make your - train. Where is your manager?" - </p> - <p> - "I left him at Ballarat, studying the language. And besides, he had to go - to Melbourne and get us ready for New Zealand. I've not tried to pilot - myself before, and it doesn't look easy." - </p> - <p> - "Easy! You've selected the very most difficult piece of railroad in - Australia for your experiment. There are twelve miles of this road which - no man without good executive ability can ever hope—tell me, have - you good executive ability? first-rate executive ability?" - </p> - <p> - "I—well, I think so, but——" - </p> - <p> - "That settles it. The tone of——oh, you wouldn't ever make it - in the world. However, that American will point you right, and you'll go. - You've got tickets?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes—round trip; all the way to Sydney." - </p> - <p> - "Ah, there it is, you see! You are going in the 5 o'clock by Castlemaine—twelve - miles—instead of the 7.15 by Ballarat—in order to save two - hours of fooling along the road. Now then, don't interrupt—let me - have the floor. You're going to save the government a deal of hauling, but - that's nothing; your ticket is by Ballarat, and it isn't good over that - twelve miles, and so——" - </p> - <p> - "But why should the government care which way I go?" - </p> - <p> - "Goodness knows! Ask of the winds that far away with fragments strewed the - sea, as the boy that stood on the burning deck used to say. The government - chooses to do its railway business in its own way, and it doesn't know as - much about it as the French. In the beginning they tried idiots; then they - imported the French—which was going backwards, you see; now it runs - the roads itself—which is going backwards again, you see. Why, do - you know, in order to curry favor with the voters, the government puts - down a road wherever anybody wants it—anybody that owns two sheep - and a dog; and by consequence we've got, in the colony of Victoria, 800 - railway stations, and the business done at eighty of them doesn't foot up - twenty shillings a week." - </p> - <p> - "Five dollars? Oh, come!" - </p> - <p> - "It's true. It's the absolute truth." - </p> - <p> - "Why, there are three or four men on wages at every station." - </p> - <p> - "I know it. And the station-business doesn't pay for the sheep-dip to - sanctify their coffee with. It's just as I say. And accommodating? Why, if - you shake a rag the train will stop in the midst of the wilderness to pick - you up. All that kind of politics costs, you see. And then, besides, any - town that has a good many votes and wants a fine station, gets it. Don't - you overlook that Maryborough station, if you take an interest in - governmental curiosities. Why, you can put the whole population of - Maryborough into it, and give them a sofa apiece, and have room for more. - You haven't fifteen stations in America that are as big, and you probably - haven't five that are half as fine. Why, it's perfectly elegant. And the - clock! Everybody will show you the clock. There isn't a station in Europe - that's got such a clock. It doesn't strike—and that's one mercy. It - hasn't any bell; and as you'll have cause to remember, if you keep your - reason, all Australia is simply bedamned with bells.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p295.jpg (70K)" src="images/p295.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - On every quarter-hour, night and day, they jingle a tiresome chime of half - a dozen notes—all the clocks in town at once, all the clocks in - Australasia at once, and all the very same notes; first, downward scale: - mi, re, do, sol—then upward scale: sol, si, re, do—down again: - mi, re, do, sol—up again: sol, si, re, do—then the clock—say - at midnight clang—clang—clang—clang—clang—clang—clang—clang—clang— - clang——and, by that time you're—hello, what's all this - excitement about? Oh I see—a runaway—scared by the train; why, - you wouldn't think this train could scare anything. Well, of cours, when - they build and run eighty stations at a loss and a lot of palace-stations - and clocks like Maryborough's at another loss, the government has got to - economize somewhere hasn't it? Very well look at the rolling stock. That's - where they save the money. Why, that train from Maryborough will consist - of eighteen freight-cars and two passenger-kennels; cheap, poor, shabby, - slovenly; no drinking water, no sanitary arrangements, every imaginable - inconvenience; and slow?—oh, the gait of cold molasses; no - air-brake, no springs, and they'll jolt your head off every time they - start or stop. That's where they make their little economies, you see. - They spend tons of money to house you palatially while you wait fifteen - minutes for a train, then degrade you to six hours' convict-transportation - to get the foolish outlay back. What a rational man really needs is - discomfort while he's waiting, then his journey in a nice train would be a - grateful change. But no, that would be common sense—and out of place - in a government. And then, besides, they save in that other little detail, - you know—repudiate their own tickets, and collect a poor little - illegitimate extra shilling out of you for that twelve miles, and——" - </p> - <p> - "Well, in any case——" - </p> - <p> - "Wait—there's more. Leave that American out of the account and see - what would happen. There's nobody on hand to examine your ticket when you - arrive. But the conductor will come and examine it when the train is ready - to start. It is too late to buy your extra ticket now; the train can't - wait, and won't. You must climb out." - </p> - <p> - "But can't I pay the conductor?" - </p> - <p> - "No, he is not authorized to receive the money, and he won't. You must - climb out. There's no other way. I tell you, the railway management is - about the only thoroughly European thing here—continentally European - I mean, not English. It's the continental business in perfection; down - fine. Oh, yes, even to the peanut-commerce of weighing baggage." - </p> - <p> - The train slowed up at his place. As he stepped out he said: - </p> - <p> - "Yes, you'll like Maryborough. Plenty of intelligence there. It's a - charming place—with a hell of a hotel." - </p> - <p> - Then he was gone. I turned to the other gentleman: - </p> - <p> - "Is your friend in the ministry?" - </p> - <p> - "No—studying for it."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch32" id="ch32"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The man with a new idea is a Crank until the idea succeeds.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - It was Junior England all the way to Christchurch—in fact, just a - garden. And Christchurch is an English town, with an English-park annex, - and a winding English brook just like the Avon—and named the Avon; - but from a man, not from Shakespeare's river. Its grassy banks are - bordered by the stateliest and most impressive weeping willows to be found - in the world, I suppose. They continue the line of a great ancestor; they - were grown from sprouts of the willow that sheltered Napoleon's grave in - St. Helena. It is a settled old community, with all the serenities, the - graces, the conveniences, and the comforts of the ideal home-life. If it - had an established Church and social inequality it would be England over - again with hardly a lack. - </p> - <p> - In the museum we saw many curious and interesting things; among others a - fine native house of the olden time, with all the details true to the - facts, and the showy colors right and in their proper places. All the - details: the fine mats and rugs and things; the elaborate and wonderful - wood carvings—wonderful, surely, considering who did them—wonderful - in design and particularly in execution, for they were done with admirable - sharpness and exactness, and yet with no better tools than flint and jade - and shell could furnish; and the totem-posts were there, ancestor above - ancestor, with tongues protruded and hands clasped comfortably over - bellies containing other people's ancestors—grotesque and ugly - devils, every one, but lovingly carved, and ably; and the stuffed natives - were present, in their proper places, and looking as natural as life; and - the housekeeping utensils were there, too, and close at hand the carved - and finely ornamented war canoe. - </p> - <p> - And we saw little jade gods, to hang around the neck—not - everybody's, but sacred to the necks of natives of rank. Also jade - weapons, and many kinds of jade trinkets—all made out of that - excessively hard stone without the help of any tool of iron. And some of - these things had small round holes bored through them—nobody knows - how it was done; a mystery, a lost art. I think it was said that if you - want such a hole bored in a piece of jade now, you must send it to London - or Amsterdam where the lapidaries are.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p298.jpg (52K)" src="images/p298.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Also we saw a complete skeleton of the giant Moa. It stood ten feet high, - and must have been a sight to look at when it was a living bird. It was a - kicker, like the ostrich; in fight it did not use its beak, but its foot. - It must have been a convincing kind of kick. If a person had his back to - the bird and did not see who it was that did it, he would think he had - been kicked by a wind-mill. - </p> - <p> - There must have been a sufficiency of moas in the old forgotten days when - his breed walked the earth. His bones are found in vast masses, all - crammed together in huge graves. They are not in caves, but in the ground. - Nobody knows how they happened to get concentrated there. Mind, they are - bones, not fossils. This means that the moa has not been extinct very - long. Still, this is the only New Zealand creature which has no mention in - that otherwise comprehensive literature, the native legends. This is a - significant detail, and is good circumstantial evidence that the moa has - been extinct 500 years, since the Maori has himself—by tradition—been - in New Zealand since the end of the fifteenth century. He came from an - unknown land—the first Maori did—then sailed back in his canoe - and brought his tribe, and they removed the aboriginal peoples into the - sea and into the ground and took the land. That is the tradition. That - that first Maori could come, is understandable, for anybody can come to a - place when he isn't trying to; but how that discoverer found his way back - home again without a compass is his secret, and he died with it in him. - His language indicates that he came from Polynesia. He told where he came - from, but he couldn't spell well, so one can't find the place on the map, - because people who could spell better than he could, spelt the resemblance - all out of it when they made the map. However, it is better to have a map - that is spelt right than one that has information in it. - </p> - <p> - In New Zealand women have the right to vote for members of the - legislature, but they cannot be members themselves. The law extending the - suffrage to them went into effect in 1893. The population of Christchurch - (census of 1891) was 31,454. The first election under the law was held in - November of that year. Number of men who voted, 6,313; number of women who - voted, 5,989. These figures ought to convince us that women are not as - indifferent about politics as some people would have us believe. In New - Zealand as a whole, the estimated adult female population was 139,915; of - these 109,461 qualified and registered their names on the rolls 78.23 per - cent. of the whole. Of these, 90,290 went to the polls and voted—85.18 - per cent. Do men ever turn out better than that—in America or - elsewhere? Here is a remark to the other sex's credit, too—I take it - from the official report: - </p> - <p> - "A feature of the election was the orderliness and sobriety of the people. - Women were in no way molested." - </p> - <p> - At home, a standing argument against woman suffrage has always been that - women could not go to the polls without being insulted. The arguments - against woman suffrage have always taken the easy form of prophecy. The - prophets have been prophesying ever since the woman's rights movement - began in 1848—and in forty-seven years they have never scored a hit. - </p> - <p> - Men ought to begin to feel a sort of respect for their mothers and wives - and sisters by this time. The women deserve a change of attitude like - that, for they have wrought well. In forty-seven years they have swept an - imposingly large number of unfair laws from the statute books of America. - In that brief time these serfs have set themselves free—essentially. - Men could not have done so much for themselves in that time without - bloodshed—at least they never have; and that is argument that they - didn't know how. The women have accomplished a peaceful revolution, and a - very beneficent one; and yet that has not convinced the average man that - they are intelligent, and have courage and energy and perseverance and - fortitude. It takes much to convince the average man of anything; and - perhaps nothing can ever make him realize that he is the average woman's - inferior—yet in several important details the evidence seems to show - that that is what he is. Man has ruled the human race from the beginning—but - he should remember that up to the middle of the present century it was a - dull world, and ignorant and stupid; but it is not such a dull world now, - and is growing less and less dull all the time. This is woman's - opportunity—she has had none before. I wonder where man will be in - another forty-seven years? - </p> - <p> - In the New Zealand law occurs this: "The word person wherever it occurs - throughout the Act includes woman." - </p> - <p> - That is promotion, you see. By that enlargement of the word, the matron - with the garnered wisdom and experience of fifty years becomes at one jump - the political equal of her callow kid of twenty-one. The white population - of the colony is 626,000, the Maori population is 42,000. The whites elect - seventy members of the House of Representatives, the Maoris four. The - Maori women vote for their four members. - </p> - <p> - November 16. After four pleasant days in Christchurch, we are to leave at - midnight to-night. Mr. Kinsey gave me an ornithorhynchus, and I am taming - it. - </p> - <p> - Sunday, 17th. Sailed last night in the Flora, from Lyttelton. - </p> - <p> - So we did. I remember it yet. The people who sailed in the Flora that - night may forget some other things if they live a good while, but they - will not live long enough to forget that. The Flora is about the - equivalent of a cattle-scow; but when the Union Company find it - inconvenient to keep a contract and lucrative to break it, they smuggle - her into passenger service, and "keep the change." - </p> - <p> - They give no notice of their projected depredation; you innocently buy - tickets for the advertised passenger boat, and when you get down to - Lyttelton at midnight, you find that they have substituted the scow. They - have plenty of good boats, but no competition—and that is the - trouble. It is too late now to make other arrangements if you have - engagements ahead. - </p> - <p> - It is a powerful company, it has a monopoly, and everybody is afraid of it—including - the government's representative, who stands at the end of the stage-plank - to tally the passengers and see that no boat receives a greater number - than the law allows her to carry. This conveniently-blind representative - saw the scow receive a number which was far in excess of its privilege, - and winked a politic wink and said nothing. The passengers bore with - meekness the cheat which had been put upon them, and made no complaint. - </p> - <p> - It was like being at home in America, where abused passengers act in just - the same way. A few days before, the Union Company had discharged a - captain for getting a boat into danger, and had advertised this act as - evidence of its vigilance in looking after the safety of the passengers—for - thugging a captain costs the company nothing, but when opportunity offered - to send this dangerously overcrowded tub to sea and save a little trouble - and a tidy penny by it, it forgot to worry about the passenger's safety. - </p> - <p> - The first officer told me that the Flora was privileged to carry 125 - passengers. She must have had all of 200 on board. All the cabins were - full, all the cattle-stalls in the main stable were full, the spaces at - the heads of companionways were full, every inch of floor and table in the - swill-room was packed with sleeping men and remained so until the place - was required for breakfast, all the chairs and benches on the hurricane - deck were occupied, and still there were people who had to walk about all - night! - </p> - <p> - If the Flora had gone down that night, half of the people on board would - have been wholly without means of escape. - </p> - <p> - The owners of that boat were not technically guilty of conspiracy to - commit murder, but they were morally guilty of it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p303.jpg (52K)" src="images/p303.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I had a cattle-stall in the main stable—a cavern fitted up with a - long double file of two-storied bunks, the files separated by a calico - partition—twenty men and boys on one side of it, twenty women and - girls on the other. The place was as dark as the soul of the Union - Company, and smelt like a kennel. When the vessel got out into the heavy - seas and began to pitch and wallow, the cavern prisoners became - immediately seasick, and then the peculiar results that ensued laid all my - previous experiences of the kind well away in the shade. And the wails, - the groans, the cries, the shrieks, the strange ejaculations—it was - wonderful. - </p> - <p> - The women and children and some of the men and boys spent the night in - that place, for they were too ill to leave it; but the rest of us got up, - by and by, and finished the night on the hurricane-deck. - </p> - <p> - That boat was the foulest I was ever in; and the smell of the breakfast - saloon when we threaded our way among the layers of steaming passengers - stretched upon its floor and its tables was incomparable for efficiency. - </p> - <p> - A good many of us got ashore at the first way-port to seek another ship. - After a wait of three hours we got good rooms in the Mahinapua, a wee - little bridal-parlor of a boat—only 205 tons burthen; clean and - comfortable; good service; good beds; good table, and no crowding. The - seas danced her about like a duck, but she was safe and capable. - </p> - <p> - Next morning early she went through the French Pass—a narrow gateway - of rock, between bold headlands—so narrow, in fact, that it seemed - no wider than a street. The current tore through there like a mill-race, - and the boat darted through like a telegram. The passage was made in half - a minute; then we were in a wide place where noble vast eddies swept - grandly round and round in shoal water, and I wondered what they would do - with the little boat. They did as they pleased with her. They picked her - up and flung her around like nothing and landed her gently on the solid, - smooth bottom of sand—so gently, indeed, that we barely felt her - touch it, barely felt her quiver when she came to a standstill. The water - was as clear as glass, the sand on the bottom was vividly distinct, and - the fishes seemed to be swimming about in nothing. Fishing lines were - brought out, but before we could bait the hooks the boat was off and away - again.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p304.jpg (14K)" src="images/p304.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch33" id="ch33"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Let us be grateful to Adam our benefactor. He cut us out of the - "blessing of idleness," and won for us the "curse of labor."</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We soon reached the town of Nelson, and spent the most of the day there, - visiting acquaintances and driving with them about the garden—the - whole region is a garden, excepting the scene of the "Maungatapu Murders," - of thirty years ago. That is a wild place—wild and lonely; an ideal - place for a murder. It is at the base of a vast, rugged, densely timbered - mountain. In the deep twilight of that forest solitude four desperate - rascals—Burgess, Sullivan, Levy, and Kelley—ambushed - themselves beside the mountain-trail to murder and rob four travelers—Kempthorne, - Mathieu, Dudley, and De Pontius, the latter a New Yorker. A harmless old - laboring man came wandering along, and as his presence was an - embarrassment, they choked him, hid him, and then resumed their watch for - the four. They had to wait a while, but eventually everything turned out - as they desired. - </p> - <p> - That dark episode is the one large event in the history of Nelson. The - fame of it traveled far. Burgess made a confession. It is a remarkable - paper. For brevity, succinctness, and concentration, it is perhaps without - its peer in the literature of murder. There are no waste words in it; - there is no obtrusion of matter not pertinent to the occasion, nor any - departure from the dispassionate tone proper to a formal business - statement—for that is what it is: a business statement of a murder, - by the chief engineer of it, or superintendent, or foreman, or whatever - one may prefer to call him. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "We were getting impatient, when we saw four men and a pack-horse - coming. I left my cover and had a look at the men, for Levy had told me - that Mathieu was a small man and wore a large beard, and that it was a - chestnut horse. I said, 'Here they come.' They were then a good distance - away; I took the caps off my gun, and put fresh ones on. I said, 'You - keep where you are, I'll put them up, and you give me your gun while you - tie them.' It was arranged as I have described. The men came; they - arrived within about fifteen yards when I stepped up and said, 'Stand! - bail up!' That means all of them to get together. I made them fall back - on the upper side of the road with their faces up the range, and - Sullivan brought me his gun, and then tied their hands behind them. The - horse was very quiet all the time, he did not move. When they were all - tied, Sullivan took the horse up the hill, and put him in the bush; he - cut the rope and let the swags—[A "swag" is a kit, a pack, small - baggage.]—fall on the ground, and then came to me. We then marched - the men down the incline to the creek; the water at this time barely - running. Up this creek we took the men; we went, I daresay, five or six - hundred yards up it, which took us nearly half-an-hour to accomplish. - Then we turned to the right up the range; we went, I daresay, one - hundred and fifty yards from the creek, and there we sat down with the - men. I said to Sullivan, 'Put down your gun and search these men,' which - he did. I asked them their several names; they told me. I asked them if - they were expected at Nelson. They said, 'No.' If such their lives would - have been spared. In money we took L60 odd. I said, 'Is this all you - have? You had better tell me.' Sullivan said, 'Here is a bag of gold.' I - said, 'What's on that pack-horse? Is there any gold?' when Kempthorne - said, 'Yes, my gold is in the portmanteau, and I trust you will not take - it all.' 'Well,' I said, 'we must take you away one at a time, because - the range is steep just here, and then we will let you go.' They said, - 'All right,' most cheerfully. We tied their feet, and took Dudley with - us; we went about sixty yards with him. This was through a scrub. It was - arranged the night previously that it would be best to choke them, in - case the report of the arms might be heard from the road, and if they - were missed they never would be found. So we tied a handkerchief over - his eyes, when Sullivan took the sash off his waist, put it round his - neck, and so strangled him. Sullivan, after I had killed the old - laboring man, found fault with the way he was choked. He said, 'The next - we do I'll show you my way.' I said, 'I have never done such a thing - before. I have shot a man, but never choked one.' We returned to the - others, when Kempthorne said, 'What noise was that?' I said it was - caused by breaking through the scrub. This was taking too much time, so - it was agreed to shoot them. With that I said, 'We'll take you no - further, but separate you, and then loose one of you, and he can relieve - the others.' So with that, Sullivan took De Pontius to the left of where - Kempthorne was sitting. I took Mathieu to the right. I tied a strap - round his legs, and shot him with a revolver. He yelled, I ran from him - with my gun in my hand, I sighted Kempthorne, who had risen to his feet. - I presented the gun, and shot him behind the right ear; his life's blood - welled from him, and he died instantaneously. Sullivan had shot De - Pontius in the meantime, and then came to me. I said, 'Look to Mathieu,' - indicating the spot where he lay. He shortly returned and said, 'I had - to "chiv" that fellow, he was not dead,' a cant word, meaning that he - had to stab him. Returning to the road we passed where De Pontius lay - and was dead. Sullivan said, 'This is the digger, the others were all - storekeepers; this is the digger, let's cover him up, for should the - others be found, they'll think he done it and sloped,' meaning he had - gone. So with that we threw all the stones on him, and then left him. - This bloody work took nearly an hour and a half from the time we stopped - the men." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Anyone who reads that confession will think that the man who wrote it was - destitute of emotions, destitute of feeling. That is partly true. As - regarded others he was plainly without feeling—utterly cold and - pitiless; but as regarded himself the case was different. While he cared - nothing for the future of the murdered men, he cared a great deal for his - own. It makes one's flesh creep to read the introduction to his - confession. The judge on the bench characterized it as "scandalously - blasphemous," and it certainly reads so, but Burgess meant no blasphemy. - He was merely a brute, and whatever he said or wrote was sure to expose - the fact. His redemption was a very real thing to him, and he was as - jubilantly happy on the gallows as ever was Christian martyr at the stake. - We dwellers in this world are strangely made, and mysteriously - circumstanced. We have to suppose that the murdered men are lost, and that - Burgess is saved; but we cannot suppress our natural regrets. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Written in my dungeon drear this 7th of August, in the year of Grace, - 1866. To God be ascribed all power and glory in subduing the rebellious - spirit of a most guilty wretch, who has been brought, through the - instrumentality of a faithful follower of Christ, to see his wretched - and guilty state, inasmuch as hitherto he has led an awful and wretched - life, and through the assurance of this faithful soldier of Christ, he - has been led and also believes that Christ will yet receive and cleanse - him from all his deep-dyed and bloody sins. I lie under the imputation - which says, 'Come now and let us reason together, saith the Lord: though - your sins be as scarlet, they shall be as white as snow; though they be - red like crimson, they shall be as wool.' On this promise I rely." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - We sailed in the afternoon late, spent a few hours at New Plymouth, then - sailed again and reached Auckland the next day, November 20th, and - remained in that fine city several days. Its situation is commanding, and - the sea-view is superb. There are charming drives all about, and by - courtesy of friends we had opportunity to enjoy them. From the grassy - crater-summit of Mount Eden one's eye ranges over a grand sweep and - variety of scenery—forests clothed in luxuriant foliage, rolling - green fields, conflagrations of flowers, receding and dimming stretches of - green plain, broken by lofty and symmetrical old craters—then the - blue bays twinkling and sparkling away into the dreamy distances where the - mountains loom spiritual in their veils of haze. - </p> - <p> - It is from Auckland that one goes to Rotorua, the region of the renowned - hot lakes and geysers—one of the chief wonders of New Zealand; but I - was not well enough to make the trip. The government has a sanitorium - there, and everything is comfortable for the tourist and the invalid. The - government's official physician is almost over-cautious in his estimates - of the efficacy of the baths, when he is talking about rheumatism, gout, - paralysis, and such things; but when he is talking about the effectiveness - of the waters in eradicating the whisky-habit, he seems to have no - reserves. The baths will cure the drinking-habit no matter how chronic it - is—and cure it so effectually that even the desire to drink - intoxicants will come no more. There should be a rush from Europe and - America to that place; and when the victims of alcoholism find out what - they can get by going there, the rush will begin.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p309.jpg (54K)" src="images/p309.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The Thermal-springs District of New Zealand comprises an area of upwards - of 600,000 acres, or close on 1,000 square miles. Rotorua is the favorite - place. It is the center of a rich field of lake and mountain scenery; from - Rotorua as a base the pleasure-seeker makes excursions. The crowd of sick - people is great, and growing. Rotorua is the Carlsbad of Australasia. - </p> - <p> - It is from Auckland that the Kauri gum is shipped. For a long time now - about 8,000 tons of it have been brought into the town per year. It is - worth about $300 per ton, unassorted; assorted, the finest grades are - worth about $1,000. It goes to America, chiefly. It is in lumps, and is - hard and smooth, and looks like amber—the light-colored like new - amber, and the dark brown like rich old amber. And it has the pleasant - feel of amber, too. Some of the light-colored samples were a tolerably - fair counterfeit of uncut South African diamonds, they were so perfectly - smooth and polished and transparent. It is manufactured into varnish; a - varnish which answers for copal varnish and is cheaper. - </p> - <p> - The gum is dug up out of the ground; it has been there for ages. It is the - sap of the Kauri tree. Dr. Campbell of Auckland told me he sent a cargo of - it to England fifty years ago, but nothing came of the venture. Nobody - knew what to do with it; so it was sold at L5 a ton, to light fires with. - </p> - <p> - November 26—3 P.M., sailed. Vast and beautiful harbor. Land all - about for hours. Tangariwa, the mountain that "has the same shape from - every point of view." That is the common belief in Auckland. And so it has—from - every point of view except thirteen. Perfect summer weather. Large school - of whales in the distance. Nothing could be daintier than the puffs of - vapor they spout up, when seen against the pink glory of the sinking sun, - or against the dark mass of an island reposing in the deep blue shadow of - a storm cloud . . . . Great Barrier rock standing up out of the sea away - to the left. Sometime ago a ship hit it full speed in a fog—20 miles - out of her course—140 lives lost; the captain committed suicide - without waiting a moment. He knew that, whether he was to blame or not, - the company owning the vessel would discharge him and make a devotion—to—passengers' - safety advertisement out of it, and his chance to make a livelihood would - be permanently gone.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch34" id="ch34"></a>XXXIV. - </h2> - <p> - Let us not be too particular. It is better to have old second-hand - diamonds than none at all. - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - November 27. To-day we reached Gisborne, and anchored in a big bay; there - was a heavy sea on, so we remained on board. - </p> - <p> - We were a mile from shore; a little steam-tug put out from the land; she - was an object of thrilling interest; she would climb to the summit of a - billow, reel drunkenly there a moment, dim and gray in the driving storm - of spindrift, then make a plunge like a diver and remain out of sight - until one had given her up, then up she would dart again, on a steep slant - toward the sky, shedding Niagaras of water from her forecastle—and - this she kept up, all the way out to us. She brought twenty-five - passengers in her stomach—men and women—mainly a traveling - dramatic company. In sight on deck were the crew, in sou'westers, yellow - waterproof canvas suits, and boots to the thigh. The deck was never quiet - for a moment, and seldom nearer level than a ladder, and noble were the - seas which leapt aboard and went flooding aft. We rove a long line to the - yard-arm, hung a most primitive basketchair to it and swung it out into - the spacious air of heaven, and there it swayed, pendulum-fashion, waiting - for its chance—then down it shot, skillfully aimed, and was grabbed - by the two men on the forecastle.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p313.jpg (56K)" src="images/p313.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - A young fellow belonging to our crew was in the chair, to be a protection - to the lady-comers. At once a couple of ladies appeared from below, took - seats in his lap, we hoisted them into the sky, waited a moment till the - roll of the ship brought them in overhead, then we lowered suddenly away, - and seized the chair as it struck the deck. We took the twenty-five - aboard, and delivered twenty-five into the tug—among them several - aged ladies, and one blind one—and all without accident. It was a - fine piece of work. - </p> - <p> - Ours is a nice ship, roomy, comfortable, well-ordered, and satisfactory. - Now and then we step on a rat in a hotel, but we have had no rats on - shipboard lately; unless, perhaps in the Flora; we had more serious things - to think of there, and did not notice. I have noticed that it is only in - ships and hotels which still employ the odious Chinese gong, that you find - rats. The reason would seem to be, that as a rat cannot tell the time of - day by a clock, he won't stay where he cannot find out when dinner is - ready. - </p> - <p> - November 29. The doctor tells me of several old drunkards, one spiritless - loafer, and several far-gone moral wrecks who have been reclaimed by the - Salvation Army and have remained staunch people and hard workers these two - years. Wherever one goes, these testimonials to the Army's efficiency are - forthcoming . . . . This morning we had one of those whizzing green - Ballarat flies in the room, with his stunning buzz-saw noise—the - swiftest creature in the world except the lightning-flash. It is a - stupendous force that is stored up in that little body. If we had it in a - ship in the same proportion, we could spin from Liverpool to New York in - the space of an hour—the time it takes to eat luncheon. The New - Zealand express train is called the Ballarat Fly . . . . Bad teeth in the - colonies. A citizen told me they don't have teeth filled, but pull them - out and put in false ones, and that now and then one sees a young lady - with a full set. She is fortunate. I wish I had been born with false teeth - and a false liver and false carbuncles. I should get along better. - </p> - <p> - December 2. Monday. Left Napier in the Ballarat Fly the one that goes - twice a week. From Napier to Hastings, twelve miles; time, fifty-five - minutes—not so far short of thirteen miles an hour . . . . A perfect - summer day; cool breeze, brilliant sky, rich vegetation. Two or three - times during the afternoon we saw wonderfully dense and beautiful forests, - tumultuously piled skyward on the broken highlands—not the customary - roof-like slant of a hillside, where the trees are all the same height. - The noblest of these trees were of the Kauri breed, we were told—the - timber that is now furnishing the wood-paving for Europe, and is the best - of all wood for that purpose. Sometimes these towering upheavals of - forestry were festooned and garlanded with vine-cables, and sometimes the - masses of undergrowth were cocooned in another sort of vine of a delicate - cobwebby texture—they call it the "supplejack," I think. Tree ferns - everywhere—a stem fifteen feet high, with a graceful chalice of - fern-fronds sprouting from its top—a lovely forest ornament. And - there was a ten-foot reed with a flowing suit of what looked like yellow - hair hanging from its upper end. I do not know its name, but if there is - such a thing as a scalp-plant, this is it. A romantic gorge, with a brook - flowing in its bottom, approaching Palmerston North. - </p> - <p> - Waitukurau. Twenty minutes for luncheon. With me sat my wife and daughter, - and my manager, Mr. Carlyle Smythe. I sat at the head of the table, and - could see the right-hand wall; the others had their backs to it. On that - wall, at a good distance away, were a couple of framed pictures. I could - not see them clearly, but from the groupings of the figures I fancied that - they represented the killing of Napoleon III's son by the Zulus in South - Africa. I broke into the conversation, which was about poetry and cabbage - and art, and said to my wife— - </p> - <p> - "Do you remember when the news came to Paris——" - </p> - <p> - "Of the killing of the Prince?" - </p> - <p> - (Those were the very words I had in my mind.) "Yes, but what Prince?" - </p> - <p> - "Napoleon. Lulu." - </p> - <p> - "What made you think of that?" - </p> - <p> - "I don't know." - </p> - <p> - There was no collusion. She had not seen the pictures, and they had not - been mentioned. She ought to have thought of some recent news that came to - Paris, for we were but seven months from there and had been living there a - couple of years when we started on this trip; but instead of that she - thought of an incident of our brief sojourn in Paris of sixteen years - before. - </p> - <p> - Here was a clear case of mental telegraphy; of mind-transference; of my - mind telegraphing a thought into hers. How do I know? Because I - telegraphed an error. For it turned out that the pictures did not - represent the killing of Lulu at all, nor anything connected with Lulu. - She had to get the error from my head—it existed nowhere else.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch35" id="ch35"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The Autocrat of Russia possesses more power than any other man in the - earth; but he cannot stop a sneeze.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - WAUGANUI, December 3. A pleasant trip, yesterday, per Ballarat Fly. Four - hours. I do not know the distance, but it must have been well along toward - fifty miles. The Fly could have spun it out to eight hours and not - discommoded me; for where there is comfort, and no need for hurry, speed - is of no value—at least to me; and nothing that goes on wheels can - be more comfortable, more satisfactory, than the New Zealand trains. - Outside of America there are no cars that are so rationally devised. When - you add the constant presence of charming scenery and the nearly constant - absence of dust—well, if one is not content then, he ought to get - out and walk. That would change his spirit, perhaps? I think so. At the - end of an hour you would find him waiting humbly beside the track, and - glad to be taken aboard again. - </p> - <p> - Much horseback riding, in and around this town; many comely girls in cool - and pretty summer gowns; much Salvation Army; lots of Maoris; the faces - and bodies of some of the old ones very tastefully frescoed. Maori Council - House over the river—large, strong, carpeted from end to end with - matting, and decorated with elaborate wood carvings, artistically - executed. The Maoris were very polite. - </p> - <p> - I was assured by a member of the House of Representatives that the native - race is not decreasing, but actually increasing slightly. It is another - evidence that they are a superior breed of savages. I do not call to mind - any savage race that built such good houses, or such strong and ingenious - and scientific fortresses, or gave so much attention to agriculture, or - had military arts and devices which so nearly approached the white man's. - These, taken together with their high abilities in boat-building, and - their tastes and capacities in the ornamental arts modify their savagery - to a semi-civilization—or at least to, a quarter-civilization.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p319.jpg (16K)" src="images/p319.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It is a compliment to them that the British did not exterminate them, as - they did the Australians and the Tasmanians, but were content with - subduing them, and showed no desire to go further. And it is another - compliment to them that the British did not take the whole of their - choicest lands, but left them a considerable part, and then went further - and protected them from the rapacities of landsharks—a protection - which the New Zealand Government still extends to them. And it is still - another compliment to the Maoris that the Government allows native - representation—in both the legislature and the cabinet, and gives - both sexes the vote. And in doing these things the Government also - compliments itself; it has not been the custom of the world for conquerors - to act in this large spirit toward the conquered. - </p> - <p> - The highest class white men who lived among the Maoris in the earliest - time had a high opinion of them and a strong affection for them. Among the - whites of this sort was the author of "Old New Zealand;" and Dr. Campbell - of Auckland was another. Dr. Campbell was a close friend of several - chiefs, and has many pleasant things to say of their fidelity, their - magnanimity, and their generosity. Also of their quaint notions about the - white man's queer civilization, and their equally quaint comments upon it. - One of them thought the missionary had got everything wrong end first and - upside down. "Why, he wants us to stop worshiping and supplicating the - evil gods, and go to worshiping and supplicating the Good One! There is no - sense in that. A good god is not going to do us any harm." - </p> - <p> - The Maoris had the tabu; and had it on a Polynesian scale of - comprehensiveness and elaboration. Some of its features could have been - importations from India and Judea. Neither the Maori nor the Hindoo of - common degree could cook by a fire that a person of higher caste had used, - nor could the high Maori or high Hindoo employ fire that had served a man - of low grade; if a low-grade Maori or Hindoo drank from a vessel belonging - to a high-grade man, the vessel was defiled, and had to be destroyed. - There were other resemblances between Maori tabu and Hindoo caste-custom.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p320.jpg (16K)" src="images/p320.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Yesterday a lunatic burst into my quarters and warned me that the Jesuits - were going to "cook" (poison) me in my food, or kill me on the stage at - night. He said a mysterious sign was visible upon my posters and meant my - death. He said he saved Rev. Mr. Haweis's life by warning him that there - were three men on his platform who would kill him if he took his eyes off - them for a moment during his lecture. The same men were in my audience - last night, but they saw that he was there. "Will they be there again - to-night?" He hesitated; then said no, he thought they would rather take a - rest and chance the poison. This lunatic has no delicacy. But he was not - uninteresting. He told me a lot of things. He said he had "saved so many - lecturers in twenty years, that they put him in the asylum." I think he - has less refinement than any lunatic I have met. - </p> - <p> - December 8. A couple of curious war-monuments here at Wanganui. One is in - honor of white men "who fell in defence of law and order against - fanaticism and barbarism." Fanaticism. We Americans are English in blood, - English in speech, English in religion, English in the essentials of our - governmental system, English in the essentials of our civilization; and - so, let us hope, for the honor of the blend, for the honor of the blood, - for the honor of the race, that that word got there through lack of - heedfulness, and will not be suffered to remain. If you carve it at - Thermopylae, or where Winkelried died, or upon Bunker Hill monument, and - read it again "who fell in defence of law and order against fanaticism" - you will perceive what the word means, and how mischosen it is. Patriotism - is Patriotism. Calling it Fanaticism cannot degrade it; nothing can - degrade it. Even though it be a political mistake, and a thousand times a - political mistake, that does not affect it; it is honorable—always - honorable, always noble—and privileged to hold its head up and look - the nations in the face. It is right to praise these brave white men who - fell in the Maori war—they deserve it; but the presence of that word - detracts from the dignity of their cause and their deeds, and makes them - appear to have spilt their blood in a conflict with ignoble men, men not - worthy of that costly sacrifice. But the men were worthy. It was no shame - to fight them. They fought for their homes, they fought for their country; - they bravely fought and bravely fell; and it would take nothing from the - honor of the brave Englishmen who lie under the monument, but add to it, - to say that they died in defense of English laws and English homes against - men worthy of the sacrifice—the Maori patriots. - </p> - <p> - The other monument cannot be rectified. Except with dynamite. It is a - mistake all through, and a strangely thoughtless one. It is a monument - erected by white men to Maoris who fell fighting with the whites and - against their own people, in the Maori war. "Sacred to the memory of the - brave men who fell on the 14th of May, 1864," etc. On one side are the - names of about twenty Maoris. It is not a fancy of mine; the monument - exists. I saw it. It is an object-lesson to the rising generation. It - invites to treachery, disloyalty, unpatriotism. Its lesson, in frank terms - is, "Desert your flag, slay your people, burn their homes, shame your - nationality—we honor such." - </p> - <p> - December 9. Wellington. Ten hours from Wanganui by the Fly. December 12. - It is a fine city and nobly situated. A busy place, and full of life and - movement. Have spent the three days partly in walking about, partly in - enjoying social privileges, and largely in idling around the magnificent - garden at Hutt, a little distance away, around the shore. I suppose we - shall not see such another one soon. - </p> - <p> - We are packing to-night for the return-voyage to Australia. Our stay in - New Zealand has been too brief; still, we are not unthankful for the - glimpse which we have had of it. - </p> - <p> - The sturdy Maoris made the settlement of the country by the whites rather - difficult. Not at first—but later. At first they welcomed the - whites, and were eager to trade with them—particularly for muskets; - for their pastime was internecine war, and they greatly preferred the - white man's weapons to their own. War was their pastime—I use the - word advisedly. They often met and slaughtered each other just for a lark, - and when there was no quarrel. The author of "Old New Zealand" mentions a - case where a victorious army could have followed up its advantage and - exterminated the opposing army, but declined to do it; explaining naively - that "if we did that, there couldn't be any more fighting." In another - battle one army sent word that it was out of ammunition, and would be - obliged to stop unless the opposing army would send some. It was sent, and - the fight went on. - </p> - <p> - In the early days things went well enough. The natives sold land without - clearly understanding the terms of exchange, and the whites bought it - without being much disturbed about the native's confusion of mind. But by - and by the Maori began to comprehend that he was being wronged; then there - was trouble, for he was not the man to swallow a wrong and go aside and - cry about it. He had the Tasmanian's spirit and endurance, and a notable - share of military science besides; and so he rose against the oppressor, - did this gallant "fanatic," and started a war that was not brought to a - definite end until more than a generation had sped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch36" id="ch36"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are several good protections against temptations, but the surest - is cowardice.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Names are not always what they seem. The common Welsh name Bzjxxllwep - is pronounced Jackson.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Friday, December 13. Sailed, at 3 p.m., in the 'Mararoa'. Summer seas and - a good ship—life has nothing better. - </p> - <p> - Monday. Three days of paradise. Warm and sunny and smooth; the sea a - luminous Mediterranean blue . . . . One lolls in a long chair all day - under deck-awnings, and reads and smokes, in measureless content. One does - not read prose at such a time, but poetry. I have been reading the poems - of Mrs. Julia A. Moore, again, and I find in them the same grace and - melody that attracted me when they were first published, twenty years ago, - and have held me in happy bonds ever since. - </p> - <p> - "The Sentimental Song Book" has long been out of print, and has been - forgotten by the world in general, but not by me. I carry it with me - always—it and Goldsmith's deathless story. - </p> - <p> - Indeed, it has the same deep charm for me that the Vicar of Wakefield has, - and I find in it the same subtle touch—the touch that makes an - intentionally humorous episode pathetic and an intentionally pathetic one - funny. In her time Mrs. Moore was called "the Sweet Singer of Michigan," - and was best known by that name. I have read her book through twice today, - with the purpose of determining which of her pieces has most merit, and I - am persuaded that for wide grasp and sustained power, "William Upson" may - claim first place— - </p> - <h3> - WILLIAM UPSON. - </h3> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <br /> <br /> Air—"The Major's Only Son."<br /> Come all good - people far and near,<br /> Oh, come and see what you can hear,<br /> - It's of a young man true and brave,<br /> That is now sleeping in his - grave.<br /> <br /> Now, William Upson was his name<br /> If it's not - that, it's all the same<br /> He did enlist in a cruel strife,<br /> And - it caused him to lose his life.<br /> <br /> He was Perry Upson's eldest - son,<br /> His father loved his noble son,<br /> This son was nineteen - years of age<br /> When first in the rebellion he engaged.<br /> <br /> - His father said that he might go,<br /> But his dear mother she said - no,<br /> "Oh! stay at home, dear Billy," she said,<br /> But she could - not turn his head.<br /> <br /> He went to Nashville, in Tennessee,<br /> - There his kind friends he could not see;<br /> He died among strangers, - so far away,<br /> They did not know where his body lay.<br /> <br /> He - was taken sick and lived four weeks,<br /> And Oh! how his parents - weep,<br /> But now they must in sorrow mourn,<br /> For Billy has gone - to his heavenly home.<br /> <br /> Oh! if his mother could have seen her - son,<br /> For she loved him, her darling son;<br /> If she could heard - his dying prayer,<br /> It would ease her heart till she met him there.<br /> - <br /> How it would relieve his mother's heart<br /> To see her son from - this world depart,<br /> And hear his noble words of love,<br /> As he - left this world for that above.<br /> <br /> Now it will relieve his - mother's heart,<br /> For her son is laid in our graveyard;<br /> For - now she knows that his grave is near,<br /> She will not shed so many - tears.<br /> <br /> Although she knows not that it was her son,<br /> For - his coffin could not be opened<br /> It might be someone in his place,<br /> - For she could not see his noble face.<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - December, 17. Reached Sydney. - </p> - <p> - December, 19. In the train. Fellow of 30 with four valises; a slim - creature, with teeth which made his mouth look like a neglected - churchyard. He had solidified hair—solidified with pomatum; it was - all one shell. He smoked the most extraordinary cigarettes—made of - some kind of manure, apparently. These and his hair made him smell like - the very nation. He had a low-cut vest on, which exposed a deal of frayed - and broken and unclean shirtfront. Showy studs, of imitation gold—they - had made black disks on the linen. Oversized sleeve buttons of imitation - gold, the copper base showing through. Ponderous watch-chain of imitation - gold. I judge that he couldn't tell the time by it, for he asked Smythe - what time it was, once. He wore a coat which had been gay when it was - young; 5-o'clock-tea-trousers of a light tint, and marvelously soiled; - yellow mustache with a dashing upward whirl at the ends; foxy shoes, - imitation patent leather. He was a novelty—an imitation dude. He - would have been a real one if he could have afforded it. But he was - satisfied with himself. You could see it in his expression, and in all his - attitudes and movements. He was living in a dude dreamland where all his - squalid shams were genuine, and himself a sincerity. It disarmed - criticism, it mollified spite, to see him so enjoy his imitation languors, - and arts, and airs, and his studied daintinesses of gesture and - misbegotten refinements. It was plain to me that he was imagining himself - the Prince of Wales, and was doing everything the way he thought the - Prince would do it. For bringing his four valises aboard and stowing them - in the nettings, he gave his porter four cents, and lightly apologized for - the smallness of the gratuity—just with the condescendingest little - royal air in the world. He stretched himself out on the front seat and - rested his pomatum-cake on the middle arm, and stuck his feet out of the - window, and began to pose as the Prince and work his dreams and languors - for exhibition; and he would indolently watch the blue films curling up - from his cigarette, and inhale the stench, and look so grateful; and would - flip the ash away with the daintiest gesture, unintentionally displaying - his brass ring in the most intentional way; why, it was as good as being - in Marlborough House itself to see him do it so like.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p327.jpg (17K)" src="images/p327.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - There was other scenery in the trip. That of the Hawksbury river, in the - National Park region, fine—extraordinarily fine, with spacious views - of stream and lake imposingly framed in woody hills; and every now and - then the noblest groupings of mountains, and the most enchanting - rearrangements of the water effects. Further along, green flats, thinly - covered with gum forests, with here and there the huts and cabins of small - farmers engaged in raising children. Still further along, arid stretches, - lifeless and melancholy. Then Newcastle, a rushing town, capital of the - rich coal regions. Approaching Scone, wide farming and grazing levels, - with pretty frequent glimpses of a troublesome plant—a particularly - devilish little prickly pear, daily damned in the orisons of the - agriculturist; imported by a lady of sentiment, and contributed gratis to - the colony. Blazing hot, all day. - </p> - <p> - December 20. Back to Sydney. Blazing hot again. From the newspaper, and - from the map, I have made a collection of curious names of Australasian - towns, with the idea of making a poem out of them: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <br /> <br /> Tumut<br /> Takee<br /> Murriwillumba<br /> Bowral<br /> - Ballarat<br /> Mullengudgery<br /> Murrurundi<br /> Wagga-Wagga<br /> - Wyalong<br /> Murrumbidgee<br /> Goomeroo<br /> Wolloway<br /> Wangary<br /> - Wanilla<br /> Worrow<br /> Koppio<br /> Yankalilla<br /> Yaranyacka<br /> - Yackamoorundie<br /> Kaiwaka<br /> Coomooroo<br /> Tauranga<br /> Geelong<br /> - Tongariro<br /> Kaikoura<br /> Wakatipu<br /> Oohipara<br /> Waitpinga<br /> - Goelwa<br /> Munno Para<br /> Nangkita<br /> Myponga<br /> Kapunda<br /> - Kooringa<br /> Penola<br /> Nangwarry<br /> Kongorong<br /> Comaum<br /> - Koolywurtie<br /> Killanoola<br /> Naracoorte<br /> Muloowurtie<br /> - Binnum<br /> Wallaroo<br /> Wirrega<br /> Mundoora<br /> Hauraki<br /> - Rangiriri<br /> Teawamute<br /> Taranaki<br /> Toowoomba<br /> Goondiwindi<br /> - Jerrilderie<br /> Whangaroa<br /> Wollongong<br /> Woolloomooloo<br /> - Bombola<br /> Coolgardie<br /> Bendigo<br /> Coonamble<br /> Cootamundra<br /> - Woolgoolga<br /> Mittagong<br /> Jamberoo<br /> Kondoparinga<br /> Kuitpo<br /> - Tungkillo<br /> Oukaparinga<br /> Talunga<br /> Yatala<br /> Parawirra<br /> - Moorooroo<br /> Whangarei<br /> Woolundunga<br /> Booleroo<br /> Pernatty<br /> - Parramatta<br /> Taroom<br /> Narrandera<br /> Deniliquin<br /> Kawakawa.<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - It may be best to build the poem now, and make the weather help - </p> - <h3> - A SWELTERING DAY IN AUSTRALIA. - </h3> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <br /> <br /> (To be read soft and low, with the lights turned down.)<br /> - <br /> The Bombola faints in the hot Bowral tree,<br /> Where fierce - Mullengudgery's smothering fires<br /> Far from the breezes of - Coolgardie<br /> Burn ghastly and blue as the day expires;<br /> <br /> - And Murriwillumba complaineth in song<br /> For the garlanded bowers of - Woolloomooloo,<br /> And the Ballarat Fly and the lone Wollongong<br /> - They dream of the gardens of Jamberoo;<br /> <br /> The wallabi sighs - for the Murrubidgee,<br /> For the velvety sod of the Munno Parah,<br /> - Where the waters of healing from Muloowurtie<br /> Flow dim in the - gloaming by Yaranyackah;<br /> <br /> The Koppio sorrows for lost - Wolloway,<br /> And sigheth in secret for Murrurundi,<br /> The - Whangeroo wombat lamenteth the day<br /> That made him an exile from - Jerrilderie;<br /> <br /> The Teawamute Tumut from Wirrega's glade,<br /> - The Nangkita swallow, the Wallaroo swan,<br /> They long for the peace - of the Timaru shade<br /> And thy balmy soft airs, O sweet Mittagong!<br /> - <br /> The Kooringa buffalo pants in the sun,<br /> The Kondoparinga - lies gaping for breath,<br /> The Kongorong Camaum to the shadow has - won,<br /> But the Goomeroo sinks in the slumber of death;<br /> <br /> - In the weltering hell of the Moorooroo plain<br /> The Yatala Wangary - withers and dies,<br /> And the Worrow Wanilla, demented with pain,<br /> - To the Woolgoolga woodlands despairingly flies;<br /> <br /> Sweet - Nangwarry's desolate, Coonamble wails,<br /> And Tungkillo Kuito in - sables is drest,<br /> For the Whangerei winds fall asleep in the sails<br /> - And the Booleroo life-breeze is dead in the west.<br /> <br /> Mypongo, - Kapunda, O slumber no more<br /> Yankalilla, Parawirra, be warned<br /> - There's death in the air!<br /> Killanoola, wherefore<br /> Shall the - prayer of Penola be scorned?<br /> <br /> Cootamundra, and Takee, and - Wakatipu,<br /> Toowoomba, Kaikoura are lost<br /> From Onkaparinga to - far Oamaru<br /> All burn in this hell's holocaust!<br /> <br /> - Paramatta and Binnum are gone to their rest<br /> In the vale of - Tapanni Taroom,<br /> Kawakawa, Deniliquin—all that was best<br /> - In the earth are but graves and a tomb!<br /> <br /> Narrandera mourns, - Cameron answers not<br /> When the roll of the scathless we cry<br /> - Tongariro, Goondiwindi, Woolundunga, the spot<br /> Is mute and forlorn - where ye lie. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - Those are good words for poetry. Among the best I have ever seen. There - are 81 in the list. I did not need them all, but I have knocked down 66 of - them; which is a good bag, it seems to me, for a person not in the - business. Perhaps a poet laureate could do better, but a poet laureate - gets wages, and that is different. When I write poetry I do not get any - wages; often I lose money by it. The best word in that list, and the most - musical and gurgly, is Woolloomoolloo. It is a place near Sydney, and is a - favorite pleasure-resort. It has eight O's in it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p330.jpg (4K)" src="images/p330.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch37" id="ch37"></a>CHAPTER XXXVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>To succeed in the other trades, capacity must be shown; in the law, - concealment of it will do.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - MONDAY,—December 23, 1895. Sailed from Sydney for Ceylon in the P. - & O. steamer 'Oceana'. A Lascar crew mans this ship—the first I - have seen. White cotton petticoat and pants; barefoot; red shawl for belt; - straw cap, brimless, on head, with red scarf wound around it; complexion a - rich dark brown; short straight black hair; whiskers fine and silky; - lustrous and intensely black. Mild, good faces; willing and obedient - people; capable, too; but are said to go into hopeless panics when there - is danger. They are from Bombay and the coast thereabouts. Left some of - the trunks in Sydney, to be shipped to South Africa by a vessel advertised - to sail three months hence. The proverb says: "Separate not yourself from - your baggage." - </p> - <p> - This 'Oceana' is a stately big ship, luxuriously appointed. She has - spacious promenade decks. Large rooms; a surpassingly comfortable ship. - The officers' library is well selected; a ship's library is not usually - that . . . . For meals, the bugle call, man-of-war fashion; a pleasant - change from the terrible gong . . . . Three big cats—very friendly - loafers; they wander all over the ship; the white one follows the chief - steward around like a dog. There is also a basket of kittens. One of these - cats goes ashore, in port, in England, Australia, and India, to see how - his various families are getting along, and is seen no more till the ship - is ready to sail. No one knows how he finds out the sailing date, but no - doubt he comes down to the dock every day and takes a look, and when he - sees baggage and passengers flocking in, recognizes that it is time to get - aboard. This is what the sailors believe. . . .<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p332.jpg (24K)" src="images/p332.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The Chief Engineer has been in the China and India trade thirty three - years, and has had but three Christmases at home in that time . . . . - Conversational items at dinner, "Mocha! sold all over the world! It is not - true. In fact, very few foreigners except the Emperor of Russia have ever - seen a grain of it, or ever will, while they live." Another man said: - "There is no sale in Australia for Australian wine. But it goes to France - and comes back with a French label on it, and then they buy it." I have - heard that the most of the French-labeled claret in New York is made in - California. And I remember what Professor S. told me once about Veuve - Cliquot—if that was the wine, and I think it was. He was the guest - of a great wine merchant whose town was quite near that vineyard, and this - merchant asked him if very much V. C. was drunk in America. - </p> - <p> - "Oh, yes," said S., "a great abundance of it." - </p> - <p> - "Is it easy to be had?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, yes—easy as water. All first and second-class hotels have it." - </p> - <p> - "What do you pay for it?" - </p> - <p> - "It depends on the style of the hotel—from fifteen to twenty-five - francs a bottle." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, fortunate country! Why, it's worth 100 francs right here on the - ground." - </p> - <p> - "No!" - </p> - <p> - "Yes!" - </p> - <p> - "Do you mean that we are drinking a bogus Veuve-Cliquot over there?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes—and there was never a bottle of the genuine in America since - Columbus's time. That wine all comes from a little bit of a patch of - ground which isn't big enough to raise many bottles; and all of it that is - produced goes every year to one person—the Emperor of Russia. He - takes the whole crop in advance, be it big or little." - </p> - <p> - January 4, 1896. Christmas in Melbourne, New Year's Day in Adelaide, and - saw most of the friends again in both places . . . . Lying here at anchor - all day—Albany (King George's Sound), Western Australia. It is a - perfectly landlocked harbor, or roadstead—spacious to look at, but - not deep water. Desolate-looking rocks and scarred hills. Plenty of ships - arriving now, rushing to the new gold-fields. The papers are full of - wonderful tales of the sort always to be heard in connection with new gold - diggings. A sample: a youth staked out a claim and tried to sell half for - L5; no takers; he stuck to it fourteen days, starving, then struck it rich - and sold out for L10,000. . . About sunset, strong breeze blowing, got up - the anchor. We were in a small deep puddle, with a narrow channel leading - out of it, minutely buoyed, to the sea. - </p> - <p> - I stayed on deck to see how we were going to manage it with such a big - ship and such a strong wind. On the bridge our giant captain, in uniform; - at his side a little pilot in elaborately gold-laced uniform; on the - forecastle a white mate and quartermaster or two, and a brilliant crowd of - lascars standing by for business. Our stern was pointing straight at the - head of the channel; so we must turn entirely around in the puddle—and - the wind blowing as described. It was done, and beautifully. It was done - by help of a jib. We stirred up much mud, but did not touch the bottom. We - turned right around in our tracks—a seeming impossibility. We had - several casts of quarter-less 5, and one cast of half 4—27 feet; we - were drawing 26 astern. By the time we were entirely around and pointed, - the first buoy was not more than a hundred yards in front of us. It was a - fine piece of work, and I was the only passenger that saw it. However, the - others got their dinner; the P. & O. Company got mine . . . . More - cats developed. Smythe says it is a British law that they must be carried; - and he instanced a case of a ship not allowed to sail till she sent for a - couple. The bill came, too: "Debtor, to 2 cats, 20 shillings." . . . News - comes that within this week Siam has acknowledged herself to be, in - effect, a French province. It seems plain that all savage and - semi-civilized countries are going to be grabbed . . . . A vulture on - board; bald, red, queer-shaped head, featherless red places here and there - on his body, intense great black eyes set in featherless rims of inflamed - flesh; dissipated look; a businesslike style, a selfish, conscienceless, - murderous aspect—the very look of a professional assassin, and yet a - bird which does no murder. What was the use of getting him up in that - tragic style for so innocent a trade as his? For this one isn't the sort - that wars upon the living, his diet is offal—and the more out of - date it is the better he likes it. Nature should give him a suit of rusty - black; then he would be all right, for he would look like an undertaker - and would harmonize with his business; whereas the way he is now he is - horribly out of true. - </p> - <p> - January 5. At 9 this morning we passed Cape Leeuwin (lioness) and ceased - from our long due-west course along the southern shore of Australia. - Turning this extreme southwestern corner, we now take a long straight - slant nearly N. W., without a break, for Ceylon. As we speed northward it - will grow hotter very fast—but it isn't chilly, now. . . . The - vulture is from the public menagerie at Adelaide—a great and - interesting collection. It was there that we saw the baby tiger solemnly - spreading its mouth and trying to roar like its majestic mother. It - swaggered, scowling, back and forth on its short legs just as it had seen - her do on her long ones, and now and then snarling viciously, exposing its - teeth, with a threatening lift of its upper lip and bristling moustache; - and when it thought it was impressing the visitors, it would spread its - mouth wide and do that screechy cry which it meant for a roar, but which - did not deceive. It took itself quite seriously, and was lovably comical. - And there was a hyena—an ugly creature; as ugly as the tiger-kitty - was pretty. It repeatedly arched its back and delivered itself of such a - human cry; a startling resemblance; a cry which was just that of a grown - person badly hurt. In the dark one would assuredly go to its assistance—and - be disappointed . . . . Many friends of Australasian Federation on board. - They feel sure that the good day is not far off, now. But there seems to - be a party that would go further—have Australasia cut loose from the - British Empire and set up housekeeping on her own hook. It seems an unwise - idea. They point to the United States, but it seems to me that the cases - lack a good deal of being alike. Australasia governs herself wholly—there - is no interference; and her commerce and manufactures are not oppressed in - any way. If our case had been the same we should not have gone out when we - did. - </p> - <p> - January 13. Unspeakably hot. The equator is arriving again. We are within - eight degrees of it. Ceylon present. Dear me, it is beautiful! And most - sumptuously tropical, as to character of foliage and opulence of it. "What - though the spicy breezes blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle"—an eloquent - line, an incomparable line; it says little, but conveys whole libraries of - sentiment, and Oriental charm and mystery, and tropic deliciousness—a - line that quivers and tingles with a thousand unexpressed and - inexpressible things, things that haunt one and find no articulate voice . - . . . Colombo, the capital. An Oriental town, most manifestly; and - fascinating. - </p> - <p> - In this palatial ship the passengers dress for dinner. The ladies' - toilettes make a fine display of color, and this is in keeping with the - elegance of the vessel's furnishings and the flooding brilliancies of the - electric light. On the stormy Atlantic one never sees a man in evening - dress, except at the rarest intervals; and then there is only one, not - two; and he shows up but once on the voyage—the night before the - ship makes port—the night when they have the "concert" and do the - amateur wailings and recitations. He is the tenor, as a rule . . . . There - has been a deal of cricket-playing on board; it seems a queer game for a - ship, but they enclose the promenade deck with nettings and keep the ball - from flying overboard, and the sport goes very well, and is properly - violent and exciting . . . . We must part from this vessel here. - </p> - <p> - January 14. Hotel Bristol. Servant Brompy. Alert, gentle, smiling, winning - young brown creature as ever was. Beautiful shining black hair combed back - like a woman's, and knotted at the back of his head—tortoise-shell - comb in it, sign that he is a Singhalese; slender, shapely form; jacket; - under it is a beltless and flowing white cotton gown—from neck - straight to heel; he and his outfit quite unmasculine. It was an - embarrassment to undress before him.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p338.jpg (51K)" src="images/p338.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - We drove to the market, using the Japanese jinriksha—our first - acquaintanceship with it. It is a light cart, with a native to draw it. He - makes good speed for half-an-hour, but it is hard work for him; he is too - slight for it. After the half-hour there is no more pleasure for you; your - attention is all on the man, just as it would be on a tired horse, and - necessarily your sympathy is there too. There's a plenty of these - 'rickshas, and the tariff is incredibly cheap. - </p> - <p> - I was in Cairo years ago. That was Oriental, but there was a lack. When - you are in Florida or New Orleans you are in the South—that is - granted; but you are not in the South; you are in a modified South, a - tempered South. Cairo was a tempered Orient—an Orient with an - indefinite something wanting. That feeling was not present in Ceylon. - Ceylon was Oriental in the last measure of completeness—utterly - Oriental; also utterly tropical; and indeed to one's unreasoning spiritual - sense the two things belong together. All the requisites were present. The - costumes were right; the black and brown exposures, unconscious of - immodesty, were right; the juggler was there, with his basket, his snakes, - his mongoose, and his arrangements for growing a tree from seed to foliage - and ripe fruitage before one's eyes; in sight were plants and flowers - familiar to one on books but in no other way—celebrated, desirable, - strange, but in production restricted to the hot belt of the equator; and - out a little way in the country were the proper deadly snakes, and fierce - beasts of prey, and the wild elephant and the monkey. And there was that - swoon in the air which one associates with the tropics, and that smother - of heat, heavy with odors of unknown flowers, and that sudden invasion of - purple gloom fissured with lightnings,—then the tumult of crashing - thunder and the downpour and presently all sunny and smiling again; all - these things were there; the conditions were complete, nothing was - lacking. And away off in the deeps of the jungle and in the remotenesses - of the mountains were the ruined cities and mouldering temples, mysterious - relics of the pomps of a forgotten time and a vanished race—and this - was as it should be, also, for nothing is quite satisfyingly Oriental that - lacks the somber and impressive qualities of mystery and antiquity. - </p> - <p> - The drive through the town and out to the Galle Face by the seashore, what - a dream it was of tropical splendors of bloom and blossom, and Oriental - conflagrations of costume! The walking groups of men, women, boys, girls, - babies—each individual was a flame, each group a house afire for - color. And such stunning colors, such intensely vivid colors, such rich - and exquisite minglings and fusings of rainbows and lightnings! And all - harmonious, all in perfect taste; never a discordant note; never a color - on any person swearing at another color on him or failing to harmonize - faultlessly with the colors of any group the wearer might join. The stuffs - were silk—thin, soft, delicate, clinging; and, as a rule, each piece - a solid color: a splendid green, a splendid blue, a splendid yellow, a - splendid purple, a splendid ruby, deep, and rich with smouldering fires—they - swept continuously by in crowds and legions and multitudes, glowing, - flashing, burning, radiant; and every five seconds came a burst of - blinding red that made a body catch his breath, and filled his heart with - joy. And then, the unimaginable grace of those costumes! Sometimes a - woman's whole dress was but a scarf wound about her person and her head, - sometimes a man's was but a turban and a careless rag or two—in both - cases generous areas of polished dark skin showing—but always the - arrangement compelled the homage of the eye and made the heart sing for - gladness. - </p> - <p> - I can see it to this day, that radiant panorama, that wilderness of rich - color, that incomparable dissolving-view of harmonious tints, and lithe - half-covered forms, and beautiful brown faces, and gracious and graceful - gestures and attitudes and movements, free, unstudied, barren of stiffness - and restraint, and— - </p> - <p> - Just then, into this dream of fairyland and paradise a grating dissonance - was injected. - </p> - <p> - Out of a missionary school came marching, two and two, sixteen prim and - pious little Christian black girls, Europeanly clothed—dressed, to - the last detail, as they would have been dressed on a summer Sunday in an - English or American village. Those clothes—oh, they were unspeakably - ugly! Ugly, barbarous, destitute of taste, destitute of grace, repulsive - as a shroud. I looked at my womenfolk's clothes—just full-grown - duplicates of the outrages disguising those poor little abused creatures—and - was ashamed to be seen in the street with them. Then I looked at my own - clothes, and was ashamed to be seen in the street with myself.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p343.jpg (47K)" src="images/p343.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - However, we must put up with our clothes as they are—they have their - reason for existing. They are on us to expose us—to advertise what - we wear them to conceal. They are a sign; a sign of insincerity; a sign of - suppressed vanity; a pretense that we despise gorgeous colors and the - graces of harmony and form; and we put them on to propagate that lie and - back it up. But we do not deceive our neighbor; and when we step into - Ceylon we realize that we have not even deceived ourselves. We do love - brilliant colors and graceful costumes; and at home we will turn out in a - storm to see them when the procession goes by—and envy the wearers. - We go to the theater to look at them and grieve that we can't be clothed - like that. We go to the King's ball, when we get a chance, and are glad of - a sight of the splendid uniforms and the glittering orders. When we are - granted permission to attend an imperial drawing-room we shut ourselves up - in private and parade around in the theatrical court-dress by the hour, - and admire ourselves in the glass, and are utterly happy; and every member - of every governor's staff in democratic America does the same with his - grand new uniform—and if he is not watched he will get himself - photographed in it, too. When I see the Lord Mayor's footman I am - dissatisfied with my lot. Yes, our clothes are a lie, and have been - nothing short of that these hundred years. They are insincere, they are - the ugly and appropriate outward exposure of an inward sham and a moral - decay. - </p> - <p> - The last little brown boy I chanced to notice in the crowds and swarms of - Colombo had nothing on but a twine string around his waist, but in my - memory the frank honesty of his costume still stands out in pleasant - contrast with the odious flummery in which the little Sunday-school - dowdies were masquerading.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p344.jpg (8K)" src="images/p344.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch38" id="ch38"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Prosperity is the best protector of principle.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - EVENING—14th. Sailed in the Rosetta. This is a poor old ship, and - ought to be insured and sunk. As in the 'Oceana', just so here: everybody - dresses for dinner; they make it a sort of pious duty. These fine and - formal costumes are a rather conspicuous contrast to the poverty and - shabbiness of the surroundings . . . . If you want a slice of a lime at - four o'clock tea, you must sign an order on the bar. Limes cost 14 cents a - barrel. - </p> - <p> - January 18th. We have been running up the Arabian Sea, latterly. Closing - up on Bombay now, and due to arrive this evening. - </p> - <p> - January 20th. Bombay! A bewitching place, a bewildering place, an - enchanting place—the Arabian Nights come again? It is a vast city; - contains about a million inhabitants. Natives, they are, with a slight - sprinkling of white people—not enough to have the slightest - modifying effect upon the massed dark complexion of the public. It is - winter here, yet the weather is the divine weather of June, and the - foliage is the fresh and heavenly foliage of June. There is a rank of - noble great shade trees across the way from the hotel, and under them sit - groups of picturesque natives of both sexes; and the juggler in his turban - is there with his snakes and his magic; and all day long the cabs and the - multitudinous varieties of costumes flock by. It does not seem as if one - could ever get tired of watching this moving show, this shining and - shifting spectacle . . . . In the great bazar the pack and jam of natives - was marvelous, the sea of rich-colored turbans and draperies an inspiring - sight, and the quaint and showy Indian architecture was just the right - setting for it. Toward sunset another show; this is the drive around the - sea-shore to Malabar Point, where Lord Sandhurst, the Governor of the - Bombay Presidency, lives. Parsee palaces all along the first part of the - drive; and past them all the world is driving; the private carriages of - wealthy Englishmen and natives of rank are manned by a driver and three - footmen in stunning oriental liveries—two of these turbaned statues - standing up behind, as fine as monuments. Sometimes even the public - carriages have this superabundant crew, slightly modified—one to - drive, one to sit by and see it done, and one to stand up behind and yell—yell - when there is anybody in the way, and for practice when there isn't. It - all helps to keep up the liveliness and augment the general sense of - swiftness and energy and confusion and pow-wow. - </p> - <p> - In the region of Scandal Point—felicitous name—where there are - handy rocks to sit on and a noble view of the sea on the one hand, and on - the other the passing and repassing whirl and tumult of gay carriages, are - great groups of comfortably-off Parsee women—perfect flower-beds of - brilliant color, a fascinating spectacle. Tramp, tramp, tramping along the - road, in singles, couples, groups, and gangs, you have the working-man and - the working-woman—but not clothed like ours. Usually the man is a - nobly-built great athlete, with not a rag on but his loin-handkerchief; - his color a deep dark brown, his skin satin, his rounded muscles knobbing - it as if it had eggs under it. Usually the woman is a slender and shapely - creature, as erect as a lightning-rod, and she has but one thing on—a - bright-colored piece of stuff which is wound about her head and her body - down nearly half-way to her knees, and which clings like her own skin. Her - legs and feet are bare, and so are her arms, except for her fanciful - bunches of loose silver rings on her ankles and on her arms. She has - jewelry bunched on the side of her nose also, and showy cluster-rings on - her toes. When she undresses for bed she takes off her jewelry, I suppose. - If she took off anything more she would catch cold. As a rule she has a - large shiney brass water jar of graceful shape on her head, and one of her - naked arms curves up and the hand holds it there. She is so straight, so - erect, and she steps with such style, and such easy grace and dignity; and - her curved arm and her brazen jar are such a help to the picture—indeed, - our working-women cannot begin with her as a road-decoration.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p347.jpg (18K)" src="images/p347.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It is all color, bewitching color, enchanting color—everywhere all - around—all the way around the curving great opaline bay clear to - Government House, where the turbaned big native 'chuprassies' stand - grouped in state at the door in their robes of fiery red, and do most - properly and stunningly finish up the splendid show and make it - theatrically complete. I wish I were a 'chuprassy'. - </p> - <p> - This is indeed India! the land of dreams and romance, of fabulous wealth - and fabulous poverty, of splendor and rags, of palaces and hovels, of - famine and pestilence, of genii and giants and Aladdin lamps, of tigers - and elephants, the cobra and the jungle, the country of a hundred nations - and a hundred tongues, of a thousand religions and two million gods, - cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, - grandmother of legend, great-grandmother of tradition, whose yesterdays - bear date with the mouldering antiquities of the rest of the nations—the - one sole country under the sun that is endowed with an imperishable - interest for alien prince and alien peasant, for lettered and ignorant, - wise and fool, rich and poor, bond and free, the one land that all men - desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give - that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the globe combined. Even - now, after the lapse of a year, the delirium of those days in Bombay has - not left me, and I hope never will. It was all new, no detail of it - hackneyed. And India did not wait for morning, it began at the hotel—straight - away. The lobbies and halls were full of turbaned, and fez'd and - embroidered, cap'd, and barefooted, and cotton-clad dark natives, some of - them rushing about, others at rest squatting, or sitting on the ground; - some of them chattering with energy, others still and dreamy; in the - dining-room every man's own private native servant standing behind his - chair, and dressed for a part in the Arabian Nights. - </p> - <p> - Our rooms were high up, on the front. A white man—he was a burly - German—went up with us, and brought three natives along to see to - arranging things. About fourteen others followed in procession, with the - hand-baggage; each carried an article—and only one; a bag, in some - cases, in other cases less. One strong native carried my overcoat, another - a parasol, another a box of cigars, another a novel, and the last man in - the procession had no load but a fan. It was all done with earnestness and - sincerity, there was not a smile in the procession from the head of it to - the tail of it. Each man waited patiently, tranquilly, in no sort of - hurry, till one of us found time to give him a copper, then he bent his - head reverently, touched his forehead with his fingers, and went his way. - They seemed a soft and gentle race, and there was something both winning - and touching about their demeanor.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p349.jpg (28K)" src="images/p349.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - There was a vast glazed door which opened upon the balcony. It needed - closing, or cleaning, or something, and a native got down on his knees and - went to work at it. He seemed to be doing it well enough, but perhaps he - wasn't, for the burly German put on a look that betrayed dissatisfaction, - then without explaining what was wrong, gave the native a brisk cuff on - the jaw and then told him where the defect was. It seemed such a shame to - do that before us all. The native took it with meekness, saying nothing, - and not showing in his face or manner any resentment. I had not seen the - like of this for fifty years. It carried me back to my boyhood, and - flashed upon me the forgotten fact that this was the usual way of - explaining one's desires to a slave. I was able to remember that the - method seemed right and natural to me in those days, I being born to it - and unaware that elsewhere there were other methods; but I was also able - to remember that those unresented cuffings made me sorry for the victim - and ashamed for the punisher. My father was a refined and kindly - gentleman, very grave, rather austere, of rigid probity, a sternly just - and upright man, albeit he attended no church and never spoke of religious - matters, and had no part nor lot in the pious joys of his Presbyterian - family, nor ever seemed to suffer from this deprivation. He laid his hand - upon me in punishment only twice in his life, and then not heavily; once - for telling him a lie—which surprised me, and showed me how - unsuspicious he was, for that was not my maiden effort. He punished me - those two times only, and never any other member of the family at all; yet - every now and then he cuffed our harmless slave boy, Lewis, for trifling - little blunders and awkwardnesses. My father had passed his life among the - slaves from his cradle up, and his cuffings proceeded from the custom of - the time, not from his nature. When I was ten years old I saw a man fling - a lump of iron-ore at a slaveman in anger, for merely doing something - awkwardly—as if that were a crime. It bounded from the man's skull, - and the man fell and never spoke again. He was dead in an hour. I knew the - man had a right to kill his slave if he wanted to, and yet it seemed a - pitiful thing and somehow wrong, though why wrong I was not deep enough to - explain if I had been asked to do it. Nobody in the village approved of - that murder, but of course no one said much about it. - </p> - <p> - It is curious—the space-annihilating power of thought. For just one - second, all that goes to make the me in me was in a Missourian village, on - the other side of the globe, vividly seeing again these forgotten pictures - of fifty years ago, and wholly unconscious of all things but just those; - and in the next second I was back in Bombay, and that kneeling native's - smitten cheek was not done tingling yet! Back to boyhood—fifty - years; back to age again, another fifty; and a flight equal to the - circumference of the globe-all in two seconds by the watch! - </p> - <p> - Some natives—I don't remember how many—went into my bedroom, - now, and put things to rights and arranged the mosquito-bar, and I went to - bed to nurse my cough. It was about nine in the evening. What a state of - things! For three hours the yelling and shouting of natives in the hall - continued, along with the velvety patter of their swift bare feet—what - a racket it was! They were yelling orders and messages down three flights. - Why, in the matter of noise it amounted to a riot, an insurrection, a - revolution. And then there were other noises mixed up with these and at - intervals tremendously accenting them—roofs falling in, I judged, - windows smashing, persons being murdered, crows squawking, and deriding, - and cursing, canaries screeching, monkeys jabbering, macaws blaspheming, - and every now and then fiendish bursts of laughter and explosions of - dynamite. By midnight I had suffered all the different kinds of shocks - there are, and knew that I could never more be disturbed by them, either - isolated or in combination. Then came peace—stillness deep and - solemn and lasted till five. - </p> - <p> - Then it all broke loose again. And who re-started it? The Bird of Birds - the Indian crow. I came to know him well, by and by, and be infatuated - with him. I suppose he is the hardest lot that wears feathers. Yes, and - the cheerfulest, and the best satisfied with himself. He never arrived at - what he is by any careless process, or any sudden one; he is a work of - art, and "art is long"; he is the product of immemorial ages, and of deep - calculation; one can't make a bird like that in a day. He has been - reincarnated more times than Shiva; and he has kept a sample of each - incarnation, and fused it into his constitution. In the course of his - evolutionary promotions, his sublime march toward ultimate perfection, he - has been a gambler, a low comedian, a dissolute priest, a fussy woman, a - blackguard, a scoffer, a liar, a thief, a spy, an informer, a trading - politician, a swindler, a professional hypocrite, a patriot for cash, a - reformer, a lecturer, a lawyer, a conspirator, a rebel, a royalist, a - democrat, a practicer and propagator of irreverence, a meddler, an - intruder, a busybody, an infidel, and a wallower in sin for the mere love - of it. The strange result, the incredible result, of this patient - accumulation of all damnable traits is, that he does not know what care - is, he does not know what sorrow is, he does not know what remorse is, his - life is one long thundering ecstasy of happiness, and he will go to his - death untroubled, knowing that he will soon turn up again as an author or - something, and be even more intolerably capable and comfortable than ever - he was before. - </p> - <p> - In his straddling wide forward-step, and his springy side-wise series of - hops, and his impudent air, and his cunning way of canting his head to one - side upon occasion, he reminds one of the American blackbird. But the - sharp resemblances stop there. He is much bigger than the blackbird; and - he lacks the blackbird's trim and slender and beautiful build and shapely - beak; and of course his sober garb of gray and rusty black is a poor and - humble thing compared with the splendid lustre of the blackbird's metallic - sables and shifting and flashing bronze glories. The blackbird is a - perfect gentleman, in deportment and attire, and is not noisy, I believe, - except when holding religious services and political conventions in a - tree; but this Indian sham Quaker is just a rowdy, and is always noisy - when awake—always chaffing, scolding, scoffing, laughing, ripping, - and cursing, and carrying on about something or other. I never saw such a - bird for delivering opinions. Nothing escapes him; he notices everything - that happens, and brings out his opinion about it, particularly if it is a - matter that is none of his business. And it is never a mild opinion, but - always violent—violent and profane—the presence of ladies does - not affect him. His opinions are not the outcome of reflection, for he - never thinks about anything, but heaves out the opinion that is on top in - his mind, and which is often an opinion about some quite different thing - and does not fit the case. But that is his way; his main idea is to get - out an opinion, and if he stopped to think he would lose chances. - </p> - <p> - I suppose he has no enemies among men. The whites and Mohammedans never - seemed to molest him; and the Hindoos, because of their religion, never - take the life of any creature, but spare even the snakes and tigers and - fleas and rats.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p355.jpg (63K)" src="images/p355.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - If I sat on one end of the balcony, the crows would gather on the railing - at the other end and talk about me; and edge closer, little by little, - till I could almost reach them; and they would sit there, in the most - unabashed way, and talk about my clothes, and my hair, and my complexion, - and probable character and vocation and politics, and how I came to be in - India, and what I had been doing, and how many days I had got for it, and - how I had happened to go unhanged so long, and when would it probably come - off, and might there be more of my sort where I came from, and when would - they be hanged,—and so on, and so on, until I could not longer - endure the embarrassment of it; then I would shoo them away, and they - would circle around in the air a little while, laughing and deriding and - mocking, and presently settle on the rail and do it all over again. - </p> - <p> - They were very sociable when there was anything to eat—oppressively - so. With a little encouragement they would come in and light on the table - and help me eat my breakfast; and once when I was in the other room and - they found themselves alone, they carried off everything they could lift; - and they were particular to choose things which they could make no use of - after they got them. In India their number is beyond estimate, and their - noise is in proportion. I suppose they cost the country more than the - government does; yet that is not a light matter. Still, they pay; their - company pays; it would sadden the land to take their cheerful voice out of - it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p356.jpg (13K)" src="images/p356.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch39" id="ch39"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XXXIX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>By trying we can easily learn to endure adversity. Another man's, I - mean.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - You soon find your long-ago dreams of India rising in a sort of vague and - luscious moonlight above the horizon-rim of your opaque consciousness, and - softly lighting up a thousand forgotten details which were parts of a - vision that had once been vivid to you when you were a boy, and steeped - your spirit in tales of the East. The barbaric gorgeousnesses, for - instance; and the princely titles, the sumptuous titles, the sounding - titles,—how good they taste in the mouth! The Nizam of Hyderabad; - the Maharajah of Travancore; the Nabob of Jubbelpore; the Begum of Bhopal; - the Nawab of Mysore; the Ranee of Gulnare; the Ahkoond of Swat's; the Rao - of Rohilkund; the Gaikwar of Baroda. Indeed, it is a country that runs - richly to name. The great god Vishnu has 108—108 special ones—108 - peculiarly holy ones—names just for Sunday use only. I learned the - whole of Vishnu's 108 by heart once, but they wouldn't stay; I don't - remember any of them now but John W. - </p> - <p> - And the romances connected with those princely native houses—to this - day they are always turning up, just as in the old, old times. They were - sweating out a romance in an English court in Bombay a while before we - were there. In this case a native prince, 16 1/2 years old, who has been - enjoying his titles and dignities and estates unmolested for fourteen - years, is suddenly haled into court on the charge that he is rightfully no - prince at all, but a pauper peasant; that the real prince died when two - and one-half years old; that the death was concealed, and a peasant child - smuggled into the royal cradle, and that this present incumbent was that - smuggled substitute. This is the very material that so many oriental tales - have been made of. - </p> - <p> - The case of that great prince, the Gaikwar of Baroda, is a reversal of the - theme. When that throne fell vacant, no heir could be found for some time, - but at last one was found in the person of a peasant child who was making - mud pies in a village street, and having an innocent good time. But his - pedigree was straight; he was the true prince, and he has reigned ever - since, with none to dispute his right. - </p> - <p> - Lately there was another hunt for an heir to another princely house, and - one was found who was circumstanced about as the Gaikwar had been. His - fathers were traced back, in humble life, along a branch of the ancestral - tree to the point where it joined the stem fourteen generations ago, and - his heirship was thereby squarely established. The tracing was done by - means of the records of one of the great Hindoo shrines, where princes on - pilgrimage record their names and the date of their visit. This is to keep - the prince's religious account straight, and his spiritual person safe; - but the record has the added value of keeping the pedigree authentic, too. - </p> - <p> - When I think of Bombay now, at this distance of time, I seem to have a - kaleidoscope at my eye; and I hear the clash of the glass bits as the - splendid figures change, and fall apart, and flash into new forms, figure - after figure, and with the birth of each new form I feel my skin crinkle - and my nerve-web tingle with a new thrill of wonder and delight. These - remembered pictures float past me in a sequence of contracts; following - the same order always, and always whirling by and disappearing with the - swiftness of a dream, leaving me with the sense that the actuality was the - experience of an hour, at most, whereas it really covered days, I think. - </p> - <p> - The series begins with the hiring of a "bearer"—native man-servant—a - person who should be selected with some care, because as long as he is in - your employ he will be about as near to you as your clothes. - </p> - <p> - In India your day may be said to begin with the "bearer's" knock on the - bedroom door, accompanied by a formula of words—a formula which is - intended to mean that the bath is ready. It doesn't really seem to mean - anything at all. But that is because you are not used to "bearer" English. - You will presently understand. - </p> - <p> - Where he gets his English is his own secret. There is nothing like it - elsewhere in the earth; or even in paradise, perhaps, but the other place - is probably full of it. You hire him as soon as you touch Indian soil; for - no matter what your sex is, you cannot do without him. He is messenger, - valet, chambermaid, table-waiter, lady's maid, courier—he is - everything. He carries a coarse linen clothes-bag and a quilt; he sleeps - on the stone floor outside your chamber door, and gets his meals you do - not know where nor when; you only know that he is not fed on the premises, - either when you are in a hotel or when you are a guest in a private house. - His wages are large—from an Indian point of view—and he feeds - and clothes himself out of them. We had three of him in two and a half - months. The first one's rate was thirty rupees a month that is to say, - twenty-seven cents a day; the rate of the others, Rs. 40 (40 rupees) a - month. A princely sum; for the native switchman on a railway and the - native servant in a private family get only Rs. 7 per month, and the - farm-hand only 4. The two former feed and clothe themselves and their - families on their $1.90 per month; but I cannot believe that the farmhand - has to feed himself on his $1.08. I think the farm probably feeds him, and - that the whole of his wages, except a trifle for the priest, go to the - support of his family. That is, to the feeding of his family; for they - live in a mud hut, hand-made, and, doubtless, rent-free, and they wear no - clothes; at least, nothing more than a rag. And not much of a rag at that, - in the case of the males. However, these are handsome times for the - farm-hand; he was not always the child of luxury that he is now. The Chief - Commissioner of the Central Provinces, in a recent official utterance - wherein he was rebuking a native deputation for complaining of hard times, - reminded them that they could easily remember when a farm-hand's wages - were only half a rupee (former value) a month—that is to say, less - than a cent a day; nearly $2.90 a year. If such a wage-earner had a good - deal of a family—and they all have that, for God is very good to - these poor natives in some ways—he would save a profit of fifteen - cents, clean and clear, out of his year's toil; I mean a frugal, thrifty - person would, not one given to display and ostentation. And if he owed - $13.50 and took good care of his health, he could pay it off in ninety - years. Then he could hold up his head, and look his creditors in the face - again. - </p> - <p> - Think of these facts and what they mean. India does not consist of cities. - There are no cities in India—to speak of. Its stupendous population - consists of farm-laborers. India is one vast farm—one almost - interminable stretch of fields with mud fences between. . . Think of the - above facts; and consider what an incredible aggregate of poverty they - place before you. - </p> - <p> - The first Bearer that applied, waited below and sent up his - recommendations. That was the first morning in Bombay. We read them over; - carefully, cautiously, thoughtfully. There was not a fault to find with - them—except one; they were all from Americans. Is that a slur? If it - is, it is a deserved one. In my experience, an American's recommendation - of a servant is not usually valuable. We are too good-natured a race; we - hate to say the unpleasant thing; we shrink from speaking the unkind truth - about a poor fellow whose bread depends upon our verdict; so we speak of - his good points only, thus not scrupling to tell a lie—a silent lie—for - in not mentioning his bad ones we as good as say he hasn't any. The only - difference that I know of between a silent lie and a spoken one is, that - the silent lie is a less respectable one than the other. And it can - deceive, whereas the other can't—as a rule. We not only tell the - silent lie as to a servant's faults, but we sin in another way: we - overpraise his merits; for when it comes to writing recommendations of - servants we are a nation of gushers. And we have not the Frenchman's - excuse. In France you must give the departing servant a good - recommendation; and you must conceal his faults; you have no choice. If - you mention his faults for the protection of the next candidate for his - services, he can sue you for damages; and the court will award them, too; - and, moreover, the judge will give you a sharp dressing-down from the - bench for trying to destroy a poor man's character, and rob him of his - bread. I do not state this on my own authority, I got it from a French - physician of fame and repute—a man who was born in Paris, and had - practiced there all his life. And he said that he spoke not merely from - common knowledge, but from exasperating personal experience. - </p> - <p> - As I was saying, the Bearer's recommendations were all from American - tourists; and St. Peter would have admitted him to the fields of the blest - on them—I mean if he is as unfamiliar with our people and our ways - as I suppose he is. According to these recommendations, Manuel X. was - supreme in all the arts connected with his complex trade; and these - manifold arts were mentioned—and praised-in detail. His English was - spoken of in terms of warm admiration—admiration verging upon - rapture. I took pleased note of that, and hoped that some of it might be - true. - </p> - <p> - We had to have some one right away; so the family went down stairs and - took him a week on trial; then sent him up to me and departed on their - affairs. I was shut up in my quarters with a bronchial cough, and glad to - have something fresh to look at, something new to play with. Manuel filled - the bill; Manuel was very welcome. He was toward fifty years old, tall, - slender, with a slight stoop—an artificial stoop, a deferential - stoop, a stoop rigidified by long habit—with face of European mould; - short hair intensely black; gentle black eyes, timid black eyes, indeed; - complexion very dark, nearly black in fact; face smooth-shaven. He was - bareheaded and barefooted, and was never otherwise while his week with us - lasted; his clothing was European, cheap, flimsy, and showed much wear.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p362.jpg (10K)" src="images/p362.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - He stood before me and inclined his head (and body) in the pathetic Indian - way, touching his forehead with the finger-ends of his right hand, in - salute. I said: - </p> - <p> - "Manuel, you are evidently Indian, but you seem to have a Spanish name - when you put it all together. How is that?" - </p> - <p> - A perplexed look gathered in his face; it was plain that he had not - understood—but he didn't let on. He spoke back placidly. - </p> - <p> - "Name, Manuel. Yes, master." - </p> - <p> - "I know; but how did you get the name?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, yes, I suppose. Think happen so. Father same name, not mother." - </p> - <p> - I saw that I must simplify my language and spread my words apart, if I - would be understood by this English scholar. - </p> - <p> - "Well—then—how—did—your—father—get—his - name?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, he,"—brightening a little—"he Christian—Portygee; - live in Goa; I born Goa; mother not Portygee, mother native-high-caste - Brahmin—Coolin Brahmin; highest caste; no other so high caste. I - high-caste Brahmin, too. Christian, too, same like father; high-caste - Christian Brahmin, master—Salvation Army." - </p> - <p> - All this haltingly, and with difficulty. Then he had an inspiration, and - began to pour out a flood of words that I could make nothing of; so I - said: - </p> - <p> - "There—don't do that. I can't understand Hindostani." - </p> - <p> - "Not Hindostani, master—English. Always I speaking English sometimes - when I talking every day all the time at you." - </p> - <p> - "Very well, stick to that; that is intelligible. It is not up to my hopes, - it is not up to the promise of the recommendations, still it is English, - and I understand it. Don't elaborate it; I don't like elaborations when - they are crippled by uncertainty of touch." - </p> - <p> - "Master?" - </p> - <p> - "Oh, never mind; it was only a random thought; I didn't expect you to - understand it. How did you get your English; is it an acquirement, or just - a gift of God?" - </p> - <p> - After some hesitation—piously: - </p> - <p> - "Yes, he very good. Christian god very good, Hindoo god very good, too. - Two million Hindoo god, one Christian god—make two million and one. - All mine; two million and one god. I got a plenty. Sometime I pray all - time at those, keep it up, go all time every day; give something at - shrine, all good for me, make me better man; good for me, good for my - family, dam good." - </p> - <p> - Then he had another inspiration, and went rambling off into fervent - confusions and incoherencies, and I had to stop him again. I thought we - had talked enough, so I told him to go to the bathroom and clean it up and - remove the slops—this to get rid of him. He went away, seeming to - understand, and got out some of my clothes and began to brush them. I - repeated my desire several times, simplifying and re-simplifying it, and - at last he got the idea. Then he went away and put a coolie at the work, - and explained that he would lose caste if he did it himself; it would be - pollution, by the law of his caste, and it would cost him a deal of fuss - and trouble to purify himself and accomplish his rehabilitation. He said - that that kind of work was strictly forbidden to persons of caste, and as - strictly restricted to the very bottom layer of Hindoo society—the - despised 'Sudra' (the toiler, the laborer). He was right; and apparently - the poor Sudra has been content with his strange lot, his insulting - distinction, for ages and ages—clear back to the beginning of - things, so to speak. Buckle says that his name—laborer—is a - term of contempt; that it is ordained by the Institutes of Menu (900 B.C.) - that if a Sudra sit on a level with his superior he shall be exiled or - branded—[Without going into particulars I will remark that as a rule - they wear no clothing that would conceal the brand.—M. T.] . . . if - he speak contemptuously of his superior or insult him he shall suffer - death; if he listen to the reading of the sacred books he shall have - burning oil poured in his ears; if he memorize passages from them he shall - be killed; if he marry his daughter to a Brahmin the husband shall go to - hell for defiling himself by contact with a woman so infinitely his - inferior; and that it is forbidden to a Sudra to acquire wealth. "The bulk - of the population of India," says Bucklet—[Population to-day, - 300,000,000.]—"is the Sudras—the workers, the farmers, the - creators of wealth." - </p> - <p> - Manuel was a failure, poor old fellow. His age was against him. He was - desperately slow and phenomenally forgetful. When he went three blocks on - an errand he would be gone two hours, and then forget what it was he went - for. When he packed a trunk it took him forever, and the trunk's contents - were an unimaginable chaos when he got done. He couldn't wait - satisfactorily at table—a prime defect, for if you haven't your own - servant in an Indian hotel you are likely to have a slow time of it and go - away hungry. We couldn't understand his English; he couldn't understand - ours; and when we found that he couldn't understand his own, it seemed - time for us to part. I had to discharge him; there was no help for it. But - I did it as kindly as I could, and as gently. We must part, said I, but I - hoped we should meet again in a better world. It was not true, but it was - only a little thing to say, and saved his feelings and cost me nothing. - </p> - <p> - But now that he was gone, and was off my mind and heart, my spirits began - to rise at once, and I was soon feeling brisk and ready to go out and have - adventures. Then his newly-hired successor flitted in, touched his - forehead, and began to fly around here, there, and everywhere, on his - velvet feet, and in five minutes he had everything in the room "ship-shape - and Bristol fashion," as the sailors say, and was standing at the salute, - waiting for orders. Dear me, what a rustler he was after the slumbrous way - of Manuel, poor old slug! All my heart, all my affection, all my - admiration, went out spontaneously to this frisky little forked black - thing, this compact and compressed incarnation of energy and force and - promptness and celerity and confidence, this smart, smily, engaging, - shiney-eyed little devil, feruled on his upper end by a gleaming fire-coal - of a fez with a red-hot tassel dangling from it. I said, with deep - satisfaction— - </p> - <p> - "You'll suit. What is your name?" - </p> - <p> - He reeled it mellowly off. - </p> - <p> - "Let me see if I can make a selection out of it—for business uses, I - mean; we will keep the rest for Sundays. Give it to me in installments." - </p> - <p> - He did it. But there did not seem to be any short ones, except Mousa—which - suggested mouse. It was out of character; it was too soft, too quiet, too - conservative; it didn't fit his splendid style. I considered, and said— - </p> - <p> - "Mousa is short enough, but I don't quite like it. It seems colorless—inharmonious—inadequate; - and I am sensitive to such things. How do you think Satan would do?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, master. Satan do wair good." - </p> - <p> - It was his way of saying "very good." - </p> - <p> - There was a rap at the door. Satan covered the ground with a single skip; - there was a word or two of Hindostani, then he disappeared. Three minutes - later he was before me again, militarily erect, and waiting for me to - speak first. - </p> - <p> - "What is it, Satan?" - </p> - <p> - "God want to see you." - </p> - <p> - "Who?" - </p> - <p> - "God. I show him up, master?" - </p> - <p> - "Why, this is so unusual, that—that—well, you see indeed I am - so unprepared—I don't quite know what I do mean. Dear me, can't you - explain? Don't you see that this is a most ex——" - </p> - <p> - "Here his card, master." - </p> - <p> - Wasn't it curious—and amazing, and tremendous, and all that? Such a - personage going around calling on such as I, and sending up his card, like - a mortal—sending it up by Satan. It was a bewildering collision of - the impossibles. But this was the land of the Arabian Nights, this was - India! and what is it that cannot happen in India? - </p> - <p> - We had the interview. Satan was right—the Visitor was indeed a God - in the conviction of his multitudinous followers, and was worshiped by - them in sincerity and humble adoration. They are troubled by no doubts as - to his divine origin and office. They believe in him, they pray to him, - they make offerings to him, they beg of him remission of sins; to them his - person, together with everything connected with it, is sacred; from his - barber they buy the parings of his nails and set them in gold, and wear - them as precious amulets. - </p> - <p> - I tried to seem tranquilly conversational and at rest, but I was not. - Would you have been? I was in a suppressed frenzy of excitement and - curiosity and glad wonder. I could not keep my eyes off him. I was looking - upon a god, an actual god, a recognized and accepted god; and every detail - of his person and his dress had a consuming interest for me. And the - thought went floating through my head, "He is worshiped—think of it—he - is not a recipient of the pale homage called compliment, wherewith the - highest human clay must make shift to be satisfied, but of an infinitely - richer spiritual food: adoration, worship!—men and women lay their - cares and their griefs and their broken hearts at his feet; and he gives - them his peace; and they go away healed." - </p> - <p> - And just then the Awful Visitor said, in the simplest way—"There is - a feature of the philosophy of Huck Finn which"—and went luminously - on with the construction of a compact and nicely-discriminated literary - verdict. - </p> - <p> - It is a land of surprises—India! I had had my ambitions—I had - hoped, and almost expected, to be read by kings and presidents and - emperors—but I had never looked so high as That. It would be false - modesty to pretend that I was not inordinately pleased. I was. I was much - more pleased than I should have been with a compliment from a man. - </p> - <p> - He remained half an hour, and I found him a most courteous and charming - gentleman. The godship has been in his family a good while, but I do not - know how long. He is a Mohammedan deity; by earthly rank he is a prince; - not an Indian but a Persian prince. He is a direct descendant of the - Prophet's line. He is comely; also young—for a god; not forty, - perhaps not above thirty-five years old. He wears his immense honors with - tranquil grace, and with a dignity proper to his awful calling. He speaks - English with the ease and purity of a person born to it. I think I am not - overstating this. He was the only god I had ever seen, and I was very - favorably impressed. When he rose to say good-bye, the door swung open and - I caught the flash of a red fez, and heard these words, reverently said— - </p> - <p> - "Satan see God out?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." And these mis-mated Beings passed from view Satan in the lead and - The Other following after.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p368.jpg (19K)" src="images/p368.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch40" id="ch40"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XL. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Few of us can stand prosperity. Another man's, I mean.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The next picture in my mind is Government House, on Malabar Point, with - the wide sea-view from the windows and broad balconies; abode of His - Excellency the Governor of the Bombay Presidency—a residence which - is European in everything but the native guards and servants, and is a - home and a palace of state harmoniously combined. - </p> - <p> - That was England, the English power, the English civilization, the modern - civilization—with the quiet elegancies and quiet colors and quiet - tastes and quiet dignity that are the outcome of the modern cultivation. - And following it came a picture of the ancient civilization of India—an - hour in the mansion of a native prince: Kumar Schri Samatsinhji Bahadur of - the Palitana State. - </p> - <p> - The young lad, his heir, was with the prince; also, the lad's sister, a - wee brown sprite, very pretty, very serious, very winning, delicately - moulded, costumed like the daintiest butterfly, a dear little fairyland - princess, gravely willing to be friendly with the strangers, but in the - beginning preferring to hold her father's hand until she could take stock - of them and determine how far they were to be trusted. She must have been - eight years old; so in the natural (Indian) order of things she would be a - bride in three or four years from now, and then this free contact with the - sun and the air and the other belongings of out-door nature and - comradeship with visiting male folk would end, and she would shut herself - up in the zenana for life, like her mother, and by inherited habit of mind - would be happy in that seclusion and not look upon it as an irksome - restraint and a weary captivity. - </p> - <p> - The game which the prince amuses his leisure with—however, never - mind it, I should never be able to describe it intelligibly. I tried to - get an idea of it while my wife and daughter visited the princess in the - zenana, a lady of charming graces and a fluent speaker of English, but I - did not make it out. It is a complicated game, and I believe it is said - that nobody can learn to play it well—but an Indian. And I was not - able to learn how to wind a turban. It seemed a simple art and easy; but - that was a deception. It is a piece of thin, delicate stuff a foot wide or - more, and forty or fifty feet long; and the exhibitor of the art takes one - end of it in his two hands, and winds it in and out intricately about his - head, twisting it as he goes, and in a minute or two the thing is - finished, and is neat and symmetrical and fits as snugly as a mould.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p370.jpg (13K)" src="images/p370.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - We were interested in the wardrobe and the jewels, and in the silverware, - and its grace of shape and beauty and delicacy of ornamentation. The - silverware is kept locked up, except at meal-times, and none but the chief - butler and the prince have keys to the safe. I did not clearly understand - why, but it was not for the protection of the silver. It was either to - protect the prince from the contamination which his caste would suffer if - the vessels were touched by low-caste hands, or it was to protect his - highness from poison. Possibly it was both. I believe a salaried taster - has to taste everything before the prince ventures it—an ancient and - judicious custom in the East, and has thinned out the tasters a good deal, - for of course it is the cook that puts the poison in. If I were an Indian - prince I would not go to the expense of a taster, I would eat with the - cook. - </p> - <p> - Ceremonials are always interesting; and I noted that the Indian - good-morning is a ceremonial, whereas ours doesn't amount to that. In - salutation the son reverently touches the father's forehead with a small - silver implement tipped with vermillion paste which leaves a red spot - there, and in return the son receives the father's blessing. Our good - morning is well enough for the rowdy West, perhaps, but would be too - brusque for the soft and ceremonious East. - </p> - <p> - After being properly necklaced, according to custom, with great garlands - made of yellow flowers, and provided with betel-nut to chew, this pleasant - visit closed, and we passed thence to a scene of a different sort: from - this glow of color and this sunny life to those grim receptacles of the - Parsee dead, the Towers of Silence. There is something stately about that - name, and an impressiveness which sinks deep; the hush of death is in it. - We have the Grave, the Tomb, the Mausoleum, God's Acre, the Cemetery; and - association has made them eloquent with solemn meaning; but we have no - name that is so majestic as that one, or lingers upon the ear with such - deep and haunting pathos. - </p> - <p> - On lofty ground, in the midst of a paradise of tropical foliage and - flowers, remote from the world and its turmoil and noise, they stood—the - Towers of Silence; and away below was spread the wide groves of cocoa - palms, then the city, mile on mile, then the ocean with its fleets of - creeping ships all steeped in a stillness as deep as the hush that - hallowed this high place of the dead. The vultures were there. They stood - close together in a great circle all around the rim of a massive low tower—waiting; - stood as motionless as sculptured ornaments, and indeed almost deceived - one into the belief that that was what they were. Presently there was a - slight stir among the score of persons present, and all moved reverently - out of the path and ceased from talking. A funeral procession entered the - great gate, marching two and two, and moved silently by, toward the Tower. - The corpse lay in a shallow shell, and was under cover of a white cloth, - but was otherwise naked. The bearers of the body were separated by an - interval of thirty feet from the mourners. They, and also the mourners, - were draped all in pure white, and each couple of mourners was - figuratively bound together by a piece of white rope or a handkerchief—though - they merely held the ends of it in their hands. Behind the procession - followed a dog, which was led in a leash. When the mourners had reached - the neighborhood of the Tower—neither they nor any other human being - but the bearers of the dead must approach within thirty feet of it—they - turned and went back to one of the prayer-houses within the gates, to pray - for the spirit of their dead. The bearers unlocked the Tower's sole door - and disappeared from view within. In a little while they came out bringing - the bier and the white covering-cloth, and locked the door again. Then the - ring of vultures rose, flapping their wings, and swooped down into the - Tower to devour the body. Nothing was left of it but a clean-picked - skeleton when they flocked-out again a few minutes afterward.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p373.jpg (61K)" src="images/p373.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The principle which underlies and orders everything connected with a - Parsee funeral is Purity. By the tenets of the Zoroastrian religion, the - elements, Earth, Fire, and Water, are sacred, and must not be contaminated - by contact with a dead body. Hence corpses must not be burned, neither - must they be buried. None may touch the dead or enter the Towers where - they repose except certain men who are officially appointed for that - purpose. They receive high pay, but theirs is a dismal life, for they must - live apart from their species, because their commerce with the dead - defiles them, and any who should associate with them would share their - defilement. When they come out of the Tower the clothes they are wearing - are exchanged for others, in a building within the grounds, and the ones - which they have taken off are left behind, for they are contaminated, and - must never be used again or suffered to go outside the grounds. These - bearers come to every funeral in new garments. So far as is known, no - human being, other than an official corpse-bearer—save one—has - ever entered a Tower of Silence after its consecration. Just a hundred - years ago a European rushed in behind the bearers and fed his brutal - curiosity with a glimpse of the forbidden mysteries of the place. This - shabby savage's name is not given; his quality is also concealed. These - two details, taken in connection with the fact that for his extraordinary - offense the only punishment he got from the East India Company's - Government was a solemn official "reprimand"—suggest the suspicion - that he was a European of consequence. The same public document which - contained the reprimand gave warning that future offenders of his sort, if - in the Company's service, would be dismissed; and if merchants, suffer - revocation of license and exile to England. - </p> - <p> - The Towers are not tall, but are low in proportion to their circumference, - like a gasometer. If you should fill a gasometer half way up with solid - granite masonry, then drive a wide and deep well down through the center - of this mass of masonry, you would have the idea of a Tower of Silence. On - the masonry surrounding the well the bodies lie, in shallow trenches which - radiate like wheel-spokes from the well. The trenches slant toward the - well and carry into it the rainfall. Underground drains, with charcoal - filters in them, carry off this water from the bottom of the well. - </p> - <p> - When a skeleton has lain in the Tower exposed to the rain and the flaming - sun a month it is perfectly dry and clean. Then the same bearers that - brought it there come gloved and take it up with tongs and throw it into - the well. There it turns to dust. It is never seen again, never touched - again, in the world. Other peoples separate their dead, and preserve and - continue social distinctions in the grave—the skeletons of kings and - statesmen and generals in temples and pantheons proper to skeletons of - their degree, and the skeletons of the commonplace and the poor in places - suited to their meaner estate; but the Parsees hold that all men rank - alike in death—all are humble, all poor, all destitute. In sign of - their poverty they are sent to their grave naked, in sign of their - equality the bones of the rich, the poor, the illustrious and the obscure - are flung into the common well together. At a Parsee funeral there are no - vehicles; all concerned must walk, both rich and poor, howsoever great the - distance to be traversed may be. In the wells of the Five Towers of - Silence is mingled the dust of all the Parsee men and women and children - who have died in Bombay and its vicinity during the two centuries which - have elapsed since the Mohammedan conquerors drove the Parsees out of - Persia, and into that region of India. The earliest of the five towers was - built by the Modi family something more than 200 years ago, and it is now - reserved to the heirs of that house; none but the dead of that blood are - carried thither. - </p> - <p> - The origin of at least one of the details of a Parsee funeral is not now - known—the presence of the dog. Before a corpse is borne from the - house of mourning it must be uncovered and exposed to the gaze of a dog; a - dog must also be led in the rear of the funeral. Mr. Nusserwanjee - Byramjee, Secretary to the Parsee Punchayet, said that these formalities - had once had a meaning and a reason for their institution, but that they - were survivals whose origin none could now account for. Custom and - tradition continue them in force, antiquity hallows them. It is thought - that in ancient times in Persia the dog was a sacred animal and could - guide souls to heaven; also that his eye had the power of purifying - objects which had been contaminated by the touch of the dead; and that - hence his presence with the funeral cortege provides an ever-applicable - remedy in case of need. - </p> - <p> - The Parsees claim that their method of disposing of the dead is an - effective protection of the living; that it disseminates no corruption, no - impurities of any sort, no disease-germs; that no wrap, no garment which - has touched the dead is allowed to touch the living afterward; that from - the Towers of Silence nothing proceeds which can carry harm to the outside - world. These are just claims, I think. As a sanitary measure, their system - seems to be about the equivalent of cremation, and as sure. We are - drifting slowly—but hopefully—toward cremation in these days. - It could not be expected that this progress should be swift, but if it be - steady and continuous, even if slow, that will suffice. When cremation - becomes the rule we shall cease to shudder at it; we should shudder at - burial if we allowed ourselves to think what goes on in the grave. - </p> - <p> - The dog was an impressive figure to me, representing as he did a mystery - whose key is lost. He was humble, and apparently depressed; and he let his - head droop pensively, and looked as if he might be trying to call back to - his mind what it was that he had used to symbolize ages ago when he began - his function. There was another impressive thing close at hand, but I was - not privileged to see it. That was the sacred fire—a fire which is - supposed to have been burning without interruption for more than two - centuries; and so, living by the same heat that was imparted to it so long - ago. - </p> - <p> - The Parsees are a remarkable community. There are only about 60,000 in - Bombay, and only about half as many as that in the rest of India; but they - make up in importance what they lack in numbers. They are highly educated, - energetic, enterprising, progressive, rich, and the Jew himself is not - more lavish or catholic in his charities and benevolences. The Parsees - build and endow hospitals, for both men and animals; and they and their - womenkind keep an open purse for all great and good objects. They are a - political force, and a valued support to the government. They have a pure - and lofty religion, and they preserve it in its integrity and order their - lives by it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p378.jpg (11K)" src="images/p378.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - We took a final sweep of the wonderful view of plain and city and ocean, - and so ended our visit to the garden and the Towers of Silence; and the - last thing I noticed was another symbol—a voluntary symbol this one; - it was a vulture standing on the sawed-off top of a tall and slender and - branchless palm in an open space in the ground; he was perfectly - motionless, and looked like a piece of sculpture on a pillar. And he had a - mortuary look, too, which was in keeping with the place.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch41" id="ch41"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There is an old-time toast which is golden for its beauty. "When you - ascend the hill of prosperity may you not meet a friend."</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The next picture that drifts across the field of my memory is one which is - connected with religious things. We were taken by friends to see a Jain - temple. It was small, and had many flags or streamers flying from poles - standing above its roof; and its little battlements supported a great many - small idols or images. Upstairs, inside, a solitary Jain was praying or - reciting aloud in the middle of the room. Our presence did not interrupt - him, nor even incommode him or modify his fervor. Ten or twelve feet in - front of him was the idol, a small figure in a sitting posture. It had the - pinkish look of a wax doll, but lacked the doll's roundness of limb and - approximation to correctness of form and justness of proportion. Mr. - Gandhi explained every thing to us. He was delegate to the Chicago Fair - Congress of Religions. It was lucidly done, in masterly English, but in - time it faded from me, and now I have nothing left of that episode but an - impression: a dim idea of a religious belief clothed in subtle - intellectual forms, lofty and clean, barren of fleshly grossnesses; and - with this another dim impression which connects that intellectual system - somehow with that crude image, that inadequate idol—how, I do not - know. Properly they do not seem to belong together. Apparently the idol - symbolized a person who had become a saint or a god through accessions of - steadily augmenting holiness acquired through a series of reincarnations - and promotions extending over many ages; and was now at last a saint and - qualified to vicariously receive worship and transmit it to heaven's - chancellery. Was that it? - </p> - <p> - And thence we went to Mr. Premchand Roychand's bungalow, in Lovelane, - Byculla, where an Indian prince was to receive a deputation of the Jain - community who desired to congratulate him upon a high honor lately - conferred upon him by his sovereign, Victoria, Empress of India. She had - made him a knight of the order of the Star of India. It would seem that - even the grandest Indian prince is glad to add the modest title "Sir" to - his ancient native grandeurs, and is willing to do valuable service to win - it. He will remit taxes liberally, and will spend money freely upon the - betterment of the condition of his subjects, if there is a knighthood to - be gotten by it. And he will also do good work and a deal of it to get a - gun added to the salute allowed him by the British Government. Every year - the Empress distributes knighthoods and adds guns for public services done - by native princes. The salute of a small prince is three or four guns; - princes of greater consequence have salutes that run higher and higher, - gun by gun,—oh, clear away up to eleven; possibly more, but I did - not hear of any above eleven-gun princes. I was told that when a four-gun - prince gets a gun added, he is pretty troublesome for a while, till the - novelty wears off, for he likes the music, and keeps hunting up pretexts - to get himself saluted. It may be that supremely grand folk, like the - Nyzam of Hyderabad and the Gaikwar of Baroda, have more than eleven guns, - but I don't know. - </p> - <p> - When we arrived at the bungalow, the large hall on the ground floor was - already about full, and carriages were still flowing into the grounds. The - company present made a fine show, an exhibition of human fireworks, so to - speak, in the matters of costume and comminglings of brilliant color. The - variety of form noticeable in the display of turbans was remarkable. We - were told that the explanation of this was, that this Jain delegation was - drawn from many parts of India, and that each man wore the turban that was - in vogue in his own region. This diversity of turbans made a beautiful - effect. - </p> - <p> - I could have wished to start a rival exhibition there, of Christian hats - and clothes. I would have cleared one side of the room of its Indian - splendors and repacked the space with Christians drawn from America, - England, and the Colonies, dressed in the hats and habits of now, and of - twenty and forty and fifty years ago. It would have been a hideous - exhibition, a thoroughly devilish spectacle. Then there would have been - the added disadvantage of the white complexion. It is not an unbearably - unpleasant complexion when it keeps to itself, but when it comes into - competition with masses of brown and black the fact is betrayed that it is - endurable only because we are used to it. Nearly all black and brown skins - are beautiful, but a beautiful white skin is rare. How rare, one may learn - by walking down a street in Paris, New York, or London on a week-day—particularly - an unfashionable street—and keeping count of the satisfactory - complexions encountered in the course of a mile. Where dark complexions - are massed, they make the whites look bleached-out, unwholesome, and - sometimes frankly ghastly. I could notice this as a boy, down South in the - slavery days before the war. The splendid black satin skin of the South - African Zulus of Durban seemed to me to come very close to perfection. I - can see those Zulus yet—'ricksha athletes waiting in front of the - hotel for custom; handsome and intensely black creatures, moderately - clothed in loose summer stuffs whose snowy whiteness made the black all - the blacker by contrast. Keeping that group in my mind, I can compare - those complexions with the white ones which are streaming past this London - window now:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p382.jpg (69K)" src="images/p382.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - A lady. Complexion, new parchment. Another lady. Complexion, old - parchment. - </p> - <p> - Another. Pink and white, very fine. - </p> - <p> - Man. Grayish skin, with purple areas. - </p> - <p> - Man. Unwholesome fish-belly skin. - </p> - <p> - Girl. Sallow face, sprinkled with freckles. - </p> - <p> - Old woman. Face whitey-gray. - </p> - <p> - Young butcher. Face a general red flush. - </p> - <p> - Jaundiced man—mustard yellow. - </p> - <p> - Elderly lady. Colorless skin, with two conspicuous moles. - </p> - <p> - Elderly man—a drinker. Boiled-cauliflower nose in a flabby face - veined with purple crinklings. - </p> - <p> - Healthy young gentleman. Fine fresh complexion. - </p> - <p> - Sick young man. His face a ghastly white. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - No end of people whose skins are dull and characterless modifications of - the tint which we miscall white. Some of these faces are pimply; some - exhibit other signs of diseased blood; some show scars of a tint out of a - harmony with the surrounding shades of color. The white man's complexion - makes no concealments. It can't. It seemed to have been designed as a - catch-all for everything that can damage it. Ladies have to paint it, and - powder it, and cosmetic it, and diet it with arsenic, and enamel it, and - be always enticing it, and persuading it, and pestering it, and fussing at - it, to make it beautiful; and they do not succeed. But these efforts show - what they think of the natural complexion, as distributed. As distributed - it needs these helps. The complexion which they try to counterfeit is one - which nature restricts to the few—to the very few. To ninety-nine - persons she gives a bad complexion, to the hundredth a good one. The - hundredth can keep it—how long? Ten years, perhaps. - </p> - <p> - The advantage is with the Zulu, I think. He starts with a beautiful - complexion, and it will last him through. And as for the Indian brown—firm, - smooth, blemishless, pleasant and restful to the eye, afraid of no color, - harmonizing with all colors and adding a grace to them all—I think - there is no sort of chance for the average white complexion against that - rich and perfect tint. - </p> - <p> - To return to the bungalow. The most gorgeous costumes present were worn by - some children. They seemed to blaze, so bright were the colors, and so - brilliant the jewels strewing over the rich materials. These children were - professional nautch-dancers, and looked like girls, but they were boys. - They got up by ones and twos and fours, and danced and sang to an - accompaniment of weird music. Their posturings and gesturings were - elaborate and graceful, but their voices were stringently raspy and - unpleasant, and there was a good deal of monotony about the tune. - </p> - <p> - By and by there was a burst of shouts and cheers outside and the prince - with his train entered in fine dramatic style. He was a stately man, he - was ideally costumed, and fairly festooned with ropes of gems; some of the - ropes were of pearls, some were of uncut great emeralds—emeralds - renowned in Bombay for their quality and value. Their size was marvelous, - and enticing to the eye, those rocks. A boy—a princeling—was - with the prince, and he also was a radiant exhibition. - </p> - <p> - The ceremonies were not tedious. The prince strode to his throne with the - port and majesty—and the sternness—of a Julius Caesar coming - to receive and receipt for a back-country kingdom and have it over and get - out, and no fooling. There was a throne for the young prince, too, and the - two sat there, side by side, with their officers grouped at either hand - and most accurately and creditably reproducing the pictures which one sees - in the books—pictures which people in the prince's line of business - have been furnishing ever since Solomon received the Queen of Sheba and - showed her his things. The chief of the Jain delegation read his paper of - congratulations, then pushed it into a beautifully engraved silver - cylinder, which was delivered with ceremony into the prince's hands and at - once delivered by him without ceremony into the hands of an officer. I - will copy the address here. It is interesting, as showing what an Indian - prince's subject may have opportunity to thank him for in these days of - modern English rule, as contrasted with what his ancestor would have given - them opportunity to thank him for a century and a half ago—the days - of freedom unhampered by English interference. A century and a half ago an - address of thanks could have been put into small space. It would have - thanked the prince— - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - 1. For not slaughtering too many of his people upon mere caprice; - </p> - <p> - 2. For not stripping them bare by sudden and arbitrary tax levies, and - bringing famine upon them; - </p> - <p> - 3. For not upon empty pretext destroying the rich and seizing their - property; - </p> - <p> - 4. For not killing, blinding, imprisoning, or banishing the relatives of - the royal house to protect the throne from possible plots; - </p> - <p> - 5. For not betraying the subject secretly, for a bribe, into the hands - of bands of professional Thugs, to be murdered and robbed in the - prince's back lot. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Those were rather common princely industries in the old times, but they - and some others of a harsh sort ceased long ago under English rule. Better - industries have taken their place, as this Address from the Jain community - will show: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Your Highness,—We the undersigned members of the Jain community - of Bombay have the pleasure to approach your Highness with the - expression of our heartfelt congratulations on the recent conference on - your Highness of the Knighthood of the Most Exalted Order of the Star of - India. Ten years ago we had the pleasure and privilege of welcoming your - Highness to this city under circumstances which have made a memorable - epoch in the history of your State, for had it not been for a generous - and reasonable spirit that your Highness displayed in the negotiations - between the Palitana Durbar and the Jain community, the conciliatory - spirit that animated our people could not have borne fruit. That was the - first step in your Highness's administration, and it fitly elicited the - praise of the Jain community, and of the Bombay Government. A decade of - your Highness's administration, combined with the abilities, training, - and acquirements that your Highness brought to bear upon it, has justly - earned for your Highness the unique and honourable distinction—the - Knighthood of the Most Exalted Order of the Star of India, which we - understand your Highness is the first to enjoy among Chiefs of your - Highness's rank and standing. And we assure your Highness that for this - mark of honour that has been conferred on you by Her Most Gracious - Majesty, the Queen-Empress, we feel no less proud than your Highness. - Establishment of commercial factories, schools, hospitals, etc., by your - Highness in your State has marked your Highness's career during these - ten years, and we trust that your Highness will be spared to rule over - your people with wisdom and foresight, and foster the many reforms that - your Highness has been pleased to introduce in your State. We again - offer your Highness our warmest felicitations for the honour that has - been conferred on you. We beg to remain your Highness's obedient - servants." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Factories, schools, hospitals, reforms. The prince propagates that kind of - things in the modern times, and gets knighthood and guns for it. - </p> - <p> - After the address the prince responded with snap and brevity; spoke a - moment with half a dozen guests in English, and with an official or two in - a native tongue; then the garlands were distributed as usual, and the - function ended.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch42" id="ch42"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Each person is born to one possession which outvalues all his others—his - last breath.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Toward midnight, that night, there was another function. This was a Hindoo - wedding—no, I think it was a betrothal ceremony. Always before, we - had driven through streets that were multitudinous and tumultuous with - picturesque native life, but now there was nothing of that. We seemed to - move through a city of the dead. There was hardly a suggestion of life in - those still and vacant streets. Even the crows were silent. But everywhere - on the ground lay sleeping natives-hundreds and hundreds. They lay - stretched at full length and tightly wrapped in blankets, heads and all. - Their attitude and their rigidity counterfeited death.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p387.jpg (41K)" src="images/p387.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The plague was not in Bombay then, but it is devastating the city now. The - shops are deserted, now, half of the people have fled, and of the - remainder the smitten perish by shoals every day. No doubt the city looks - now in the daytime as it looked then at night. When we had pierced deep - into the native quarter and were threading its narrow dim lanes, we had to - go carefully, for men were stretched asleep all about and there was hardly - room to drive between them. And every now and then a swarm of rats would - scamper across past the horses' feet in the vague light—the forbears - of the rats that are carrying the plague from house to house in Bombay - now. The shops were but sheds, little booths open to the street; and the - goods had been removed, and on the counters families were sleeping, - usually with an oil lamp present. Recurrent dead watches, it looked like. - </p> - <p> - But at last we turned a corner and saw a great glare of light ahead. It - was the home of the bride, wrapped in a perfect conflagration of - illuminations,—mainly gas-work designs, gotten up specially for the - occasion. Within was abundance of brilliancy—flames, costumes, - colors, decorations, mirrors—it was another Aladdin show. - </p> - <p> - The bride was a trim and comely little thing of twelve years, dressed as - we would dress a boy, though more expensively than we should do it, of - course. She moved about very much at her ease, and stopped and talked with - the guests and allowed her wedding jewelry to be examined. It was very - fine. Particularly a rope of great diamonds, a lovely thing to look at and - handle. It had a great emerald hanging to it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p388.jpg (82K)" src="images/p388.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The bridegroom was not present. He was having betrothal festivities of his - own at his father's house. As I understood it, he and the bride were to - entertain company every night and nearly all night for a week or more, - then get married, if alive. Both of the children were a little elderly, as - brides and grooms go, in India—twelve; they ought to have been - married a year or two sooner; still to a stranger twelve seems quite young - enough. - </p> - <p> - A while after midnight a couple of celebrated and high-priced nautch-girls - appeared in the gorgeous place, and danced and sang. With them were men - who played upon strange instruments which made uncanny noises of a sort to - make one's flesh creep.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p389.jpg (15K)" src="images/p389.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - One of these instruments was a pipe, and to its music the girls went - through a performance which represented snake charming. It seemed a - doubtful sort of music to charm anything with, but a native gentleman - assured me that snakes like it and will come out of their holes and listen - to it with every evidence of refreshment and gratitude. He said that at an - entertainment in his grounds once, the pipe brought out half a dozen - snakes, and the music had to be stopped before they would be persuaded to - go. Nobody wanted their company, for they were bold, familiar, and - dangerous; but no one would kill them, of course, for it is sinful for a - Hindoo to kill any kind of a creature. - </p> - <p> - We withdrew from the festivities at two in the morning. Another picture, - then—but it has lodged itself in my memory rather as a stage-scene - than as a reality. It is of a porch and short flight of steps crowded with - dark faces and ghostly-white draperies flooded with the strong glare from - the dazzling concentration of illuminations; and midway of the steps one - conspicuous figure for accent—a turbaned giant, with a name - according to his size: Rao Bahadur Baskirao Balinkanje Pitale, Vakeel to - his Highness the Gaikwar of Baroda. Without him the picture would not have - been complete; and if his name had been merely Smith, he wouldn't have - answered. Close at hand on house-fronts on both sides of the narrow street - were illuminations of a kind commonly employed by the natives—scores - of glass tumblers (containing tapers) fastened a few inches apart all over - great latticed frames, forming starry constellations which showed out - vividly against their black backgrounds. As we drew away into the distance - down the dim lanes the illuminations gathered together into a single mass, - and glowed out of the enveloping darkness like a sun. - </p> - <p> - Then again the deep silence, the skurrying rats, the dim forms stretched - everywhere on the ground; and on either hand those open booths - counterfeiting sepulchres, with counterfeit corpses sleeping motionless in - the flicker of the counterfeit death lamps. And now, a year later, when I - read the cablegrams I seem to be reading of what I myself partly saw—saw - before it happened—in a prophetic dream, as it were. One cablegram - says, "Business in the native town is about suspended. Except the wailing - and the tramp of the funerals. There is but little life or movement. The - closed shops exceed in number those that remain open." Another says that - 325,000 of the people have fled the city and are carrying the plague to - the country. Three days later comes the news, "The population is reduced - by half." The refugees have carried the disease to Karachi; "220 cases, - 214 deaths." A day or two later, "52 fresh cases, all of which proved - fatal." - </p> - <p> - The plague carries with it a terror which no other disease can excite; for - of all diseases known to men it is the deadliest—by far the - deadliest. "Fifty-two fresh cases—all fatal." It is the Black Death - alone that slays like that. We can all imagine, after a fashion, the - desolation of a plague-stricken city, and the stupor of stillness broken - at intervals by distant bursts of wailing, marking the passing of - funerals, here and there and yonder, but I suppose it is not possible for - us to realize to ourselves the nightmare of dread and fear that possesses - the living who are present in such a place and cannot get away. That half - million fled from Bombay in a wild panic suggests to us something of what - they were feeling, but perhaps not even they could realize what the half - million were feeling whom they left stranded behind to face the stalking - horror without chance of escape. Kinglake was in Cairo many years ago - during an epidemic of the Black Death, and he has imagined the terrors - that creep into a man's heart at such a time and follow him until they - themselves breed the fatal sign in the armpit, and then the delirium with - confused images, and home-dreams, and reeling billiard-tables, and then - the sudden blank of death: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "To the contagionist, filled as he is with the dread of final causes, - having no faith in destiny, nor in the fixed will of God, and with none - of the devil-may-care indifference which might stand him instead of - creeds—to such one, every rag that shivers in the breeze of a - plague-stricken city has this sort of sublimity. If by any terrible - ordinance he be forced to venture forth, he sees death dangling from - every sleeve; and, as he creeps forward, he poises his shuddering limbs - between the imminent jacket that is stabbing at his right elbow and the - murderous pelisse that threatens to mow him clean down as it sweeps - along on his left. But most of all he dreads that which most of all he - should love—the touch of a woman's dress; for mothers and wives, - hurrying forth on kindly errands from the bedsides of the dying, go - slouching along through the streets more willfully and less courteously - than the men. For a while it may be that the caution of the poor - Levantine may enable him to avoid contact, but sooner or later, perhaps, - the dreaded chance arrives; that bundle of linen, with the dark tearful - eyes at the top of it, that labors along with the voluptuous clumsiness - of Grisi—she has touched the poor Levantine with the hem of her - sleeve! From that dread moment his peace is gone; his mind for ever - hanging upon the fatal touch invites the blow which he fears; he watches - for the symptoms of plague so carefully, that sooner or later they come - in truth. The parched mouth is a sign—his mouth is parched; the - throbbing brain—his brain does throb; the rapid pulse—he - touches his own wrist (for he dares not ask counsel of any man lest he - be deserted), he touches his wrist, and feels how his frighted blood - goes galloping out of his heart. There is nothing but the fatal swelling - that is wanting to make his sad conviction complete; immediately, he has - an odd feel under the arm—no pain, but a little straining of the - skin; he would to God it were his fancy that were strong enough to give - him that sensation; this is the worst of all. It now seems to him that - he could be happy and contented with his parched mouth, and his - throbbing brain, and his rapid pulse, if only he could know that there - were no swelling under the left arm; but dares he try?—in a moment - of calmness and deliberation he dares not; but when for a while he has - writhed under the torture of suspense, a sudden strength of will drives - him to seek and know his fate; he touches the gland, and finds the skin - sane and sound but under the cuticle there lies a small lump like a - pistol-bullet, that moves as he pushes it. Oh! but is this for all - certainty, is this the sentence of death? Feel the gland of the other - arm. There is not the same lump exactly, yet something a little like it. - Have not some people glands naturally enlarged?—would to heaven he - were one! So he does for himself the work of the plague, and when the - Angel of Death thus courted does indeed and in truth come, he has only - to finish that which has been so well begun; he passes his fiery hand - over the brain of the victim, and lets him rave for a season, but all - chance-wise, of people and things once dear, or of people and things - indifferent. Once more the poor fellow is back at his home in fair - Provence, and sees the sundial that stood in his childhood's garden—sees - his mother, and the long-since forgotten face of that little dear sister—(he - sees her, he says, on a Sunday morning, for all the church bells are - ringing); he looks up and down through the universe, and owns it well - piled with bales upon bales of cotton, and cotton eternal—so much - so that he feels—he knows—he swears he could make that - winning hazard, if the billiard-table would not slant upwards, and if - the cue were a cue worth playing with; but it is not—it's a cue - that won't move—his own arm won't move—in short, there's the - devil to pay in the brain of the poor Levantine; and perhaps, the next - night but one he becomes the 'life and the soul' of some squalling - jackal family, who fish him out by the foot from his shallow and sandy - grave." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch43" id="ch43"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Hunger is the handmaid of genius</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - One day during our stay in Bombay there was a criminal trial of a most - interesting sort, a terribly realistic chapter out of the "Arabian - Nights," a strange mixture of simplicities and pieties and murderous - practicalities, which brought back the forgotten days of Thuggee and made - them live again; in fact, even made them believable. It was a case where a - young girl had been assassinated for the sake of her trifling ornaments, - things not worth a laborer's day's wages in America. This thing could have - been done in many other countries, but hardly with the cold business-like - depravity, absence of fear, absence of caution, destitution of the sense - of horror, repentance, remorse, exhibited in this case. Elsewhere the - murderer would have done his crime secretly, by night, and without - witnesses; his fears would have allowed him no peace while the dead body - was in his neighborhood; he would not have rested until he had gotten it - safe out of the way and hidden as effectually as he could hide it. But - this Indian murderer does his deed in the full light of day, cares nothing - for the society of witnesses, is in no way incommoded by the presence of - the corpse, takes his own time about disposing of it, and the whole party - are so indifferent, so phlegmatic, that they take their regular sleep as - if nothing was happening and no halters hanging over them; and these five - bland people close the episode with a religious service. The thing reads - like a Meadows-Taylor Thug-tale of half a century ago, as may be seen by - the official report of the trial: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At the Mazagon Police Court yesterday, Superintendent Nolan again - charged Tookaram Suntoo Savat Baya, woman, her daughter Krishni, and - Gopal Vithoo Bhanayker, before Mr. Phiroze Hoshang Dastur, Fourth - Presidency Magistrate, under sections 302 and 109 of the Code, with - having on the night of the 30th of December last murdered a Hindoo girl - named Cassi, aged 12, by strangulation, in the room of a chawl at - Jakaria Bunder, on the Sewriroad, and also with aiding and abetting each - other in the commission of the offense. - </p> - <p> - "Mr. F. A. Little, Public Prosecutor, conducted the case on behalf of - the Crown, the accused being undefended. - </p> - <p> - "Mr. Little applied under the provisions of the Criminal Procedure Code - to tender pardon to one of the accused, Krishni, woman, aged 22, on her - undertaking to make a true and full statement of facts under which the - deceased girl Cassi was murdered. - </p> - <p> - "The Magistrate having granted the Public Prosecutor's application, the - accused Krishni went into the witness-box, and, on being examined by Mr. - Little, made the following confession:—I am a mill-hand employed - at the Jubilee Mill. I recollect the day (Tuesday); on which the body of - the deceased Cassi was found. Previous to that I attended the mill for - half a day, and then returned home at 3 in the afternoon, when I saw - five persons in the house, viz.: the first accused Tookaram, who is my - paramour, my mother, the second accused Baya, the accused Gopal, and two - guests named Ramji Daji and Annaji Gungaram. Tookaram rented the room of - the chawl situated at Jakaria Bunder-road from its owner, Girdharilal - Radhakishan, and in that room I, my paramour, Tookaram, and his younger - brother, Yesso Mahadhoo, live. Since his arrival in Bombay from his - native country Yesso came and lived with us. When I returned from the - mill on the afternoon of that day, I saw the two guests seated on a cot - in the veranda, and a few minutes after the accused Gopal came and took - his seat by their side, while I and my mother were seated inside the - room. Tookaram, who had gone out to fetch some 'pan' and betelnuts, on - his return home had brought the two guests with him. After returning - home he gave them 'pan supari'. While they were eating it my mother came - out of the room and inquired of one of the guests, Ramji, what had - happened to his foot, when he replied that he had tried many remedies, - but they had done him no good. My mother then took some rice in her hand - and prophesied that the disease which Ramji was suffering from would not - be cured until he returned to his native country. In the meantime the - deceased Casi came from the direction of an out-house, and stood in - front on the threshold of our room with a 'lota' in her hand. Tookaram - then told his two guests to leave the room, and they then went up the - steps towards the quarry. After the guests had gone away, Tookaram - seized the deceased, who had come into the room, and he afterwards put a - waistband around her, and tied her to a post which supports a loft. - After doing this, he pressed the girl's throat, and, having tied her - mouth with the 'dhotur' (now shown in Court), fastened it to the post. - Having killed the girl, Tookaram removed her gold head ornament and a - gold 'putlee', and also took charge of her 'lota'. Besides these two - ornaments Cassi had on her person ear-studs, a nose-ring, some silver - toe-rings, two necklaces, a pair of silver anklets and bracelets. - Tookaram afterwards tried to remove the silver amulets, the ear-studs, - and the nose-ring; but he failed in his attempt. While he was doing so, - I, my mother, and Gopal were present. After removing the two gold - ornaments, he handed them over to Gopal, who was at the time standing - near me. When he killed Cassi, Tookaram threatened to strangle me also - if I informed any one of this. Gopal and myself were then standing at - the door of our room, and we both were threatened by Tookaram. My - mother, Baya, had seized the legs of the deceased at the time she was - killed, and whilst she was being tied to the post. Cassi then made a - noise. Tookaram and my mother took part in killing the girl. After the - murder her body was wrapped up in a mattress and kept on the loft over - the door of our room. When Cassi was strangled, the door of the room was - fastened from the inside by Tookaram. This deed was committed shortly - after my return home from work in the mill. Tookaram put the body of the - deceased in the mattress, and, after it was left on the loft, he went to - have his head shaved by a barber named Sambhoo Raghoo, who lives only - one door away from me. My mother and myself then remained in the - possession of the information. I was slapped and threatened by my - paramour, Tookaram, and that was the only reason why I did not inform - any one at that time. When I told Tookaram that I would give information - of the occurrence, he slapped me. The accused Gopal was asked by - Tookaram to go back to his room, and he did so, taking away with him the - two gold ornaments and the 'lota'. Yesso Mahadhoo, a brother-in-law of - Tookaram, came to the house and asked Tookaram why he was washing, the - water-pipe being just opposite. Tookaram replied that he was washing his - dhotur, as a fowl had polluted it. About 6 o'clock of the evening of - that day my mother gave me three pice and asked me to buy a cocoanut, - and I gave the money to Yessoo, who went and fetched a cocoanut and some - betel leaves. When Yessoo and others were in the room I was bathing, - and, after I finished my bath, my mother took the cocoanut and the betel - leaves from Yessoo, and we five went to the sea. The party consisted of - Tookaram, my mother, Yessoo, Tookaram's younger brother, and myself. On - reaching the seashore, my mother made the offering to the sea, and - prayed to be pardoned for what we had done. Before we went to the sea, - some one came to inquire after the girl Cassi. The police and other - people came to make these inquiries both before and after we left the - house for the seashore. The police questioned my mother about the girl, - and she replied that Cassi had come to her door, but had left. The next - day the police questioned Tookaram, and he, too, gave a similar reply. - This was said the same night when the search was made for the girl. - After the offering was made to the sea, we partook of the cocoanut and - returned home, when my mother gave me some food; but Tookaram did not - partake of any food that night. After dinner I and my mother slept - inside the room, and Tookaram slept on a cot near his brother-in-law, - Yessoo Mahadhoo, just outside the door. That was not the usual place - where Tookaram slept. He usually slept inside the room. The body of the - deceased remained on the loft when I went to sleep. The room in which we - slept was locked, and I heard that my paramour, Tookaram, was restless - outside. About 3 o'clock the following morning Tookaram knocked at the - door, when both myself and my mother opened it. He then told me to go to - the steps leading to the quarry, and see if any one was about. Those - steps lead to a stable, through which we go to the quarry at the back of - the compound. When I got to the steps I saw no one there. Tookaram asked - me if any one was there, and I replied that I could see no one about. He - then took the body of the deceased from the loft, and having wrapped it - up in his saree, asked me to accompany him to the steps of the quarry, - and I did so. The 'saree' now produced here was the same. Besides the - 'saree', there was also a 'cholee' on the body. He then carried the body - in his arms, and went up the steps, through the stable, and then to the - right hand towards a Sahib's bungalow, where Tookaram placed the body - near a wall. All the time I and my mother were with him. When the body - was taken down, Yessoo was lying on the cot. After depositing the body - under the wall, we all returned home, and soon after 5 a.m. the police - again came and took Tookaram away. About an hour after they returned and - took me and my mother away. We were questioned about it, when I made a - statement. Two hours later I was taken to the room, and I pointed out - this waistband, the 'dhotur', the mattress, and the wooden post to - Superintendent Nolan and Inspectors Roberts and Rashanali, in the - presence of my mother and Tookaram. Tookaram killed the girl Cassi for - her ornaments, which he wanted for the girl to whom he was shortly going - to be married. The body was found in the same place where it was - deposited by Tookaram." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The criminal side of the native has always been picturesque, always - readable. The Thuggee and one or two other particularly outrageous - features of it have been suppressed by the English, but there is enough of - it left to keep it darkly interesting. One finds evidence of these - survivals in the newspapers. Macaulay has a light-throwing passage upon - this matter in his great historical sketch of Warren Hastings, where he is - describing some effects which followed the temporary paralysis of - Hastings' powerful government brought about by Sir Philip Francis and his - party: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The natives considered Hastings as a fallen man; and they acted after - their kind. Some of our readers may have seen, in India, a cloud of - crows pecking a sick vulture to death—no bad type of what happens - in that country as often as fortune deserts one who has been great and - dreaded. In an instant all the sycophants, who had lately been ready to - lie for him, to forge for him, to pander for him, to poison for him, - hasten to purchase the favor of his victorious enemies by accusing him. - An Indian government has only to let it be understood that it wishes a - particular man to be ruined, and in twenty-four hours it will be - furnished with grave charges, supported by depositions so full and - circumstantial that any person unaccustomed to Asiatic mendacity would - regard them as decisive. It is well if the signature of the destined - victim is not counterfeited at the foot of some illegal compact, and if - some treasonable paper is not slipped into a hiding-place in his house." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That was nearly a century and a quarter ago. An article in one of the - chief journals of India (the Pioneer) shows that in some respects the - native of to-day is just what his ancestor was then. Here are niceties of - so subtle and delicate a sort that they lift their breed of rascality to a - place among the fine arts, and almost entitle it to respect: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The records of the Indian courts might certainly be relied upon to - prove that swindlers as a class in the East come very close to, if they - do not surpass, in brilliancy of execution and originality of design the - most expert of their fraternity in Europe and America. India in especial - is the home of forgery. There are some particular districts which are - noted as marts for the finest specimens of the forger's handiwork. The - business is carried on by firms who possess stores of stamped papers to - suit every emergency. They habitually lay in a store of fresh stamped - papers every year, and some of the older and more thriving houses can - supply documents for the past forty years, bearing the proper water-mark - and possessing the genuine appearance of age. Other districts have - earned notoriety for skilled perjury, a pre-eminence that excites a - respectful admiration when one thinks of the universal prevalence of the - art, and persons desirous of succeeding in false suits are ready to pay - handsomely to avail themselves of the services of these local experts as - witnesses." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Various instances illustrative of the methods of these swindlers are - given. They exhibit deep cunning and total depravity on the part of the - swindler and his pals, and more obtuseness on the part of the victim than - one would expect to find in a country where suspicion of your neighbor - must surely be one of the earliest things learned. The favorite subject is - the young fool who has just come into a fortune and is trying to see how - poor a use he can put it to. I will quote one example: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Sometimes another form of confidence trick is adopted, which is - invariably successful. The particular pigeon is spotted, and, his - acquaintance having been made, he is encouraged in every form of vice. - When the friendship is thoroughly established, the swindler remarks to - the young man that he has a brother who has asked him to lend him - Rs.10,000. The swindler says he has the money and would lend it; but, as - the borrower is his brother, he cannot charge interest. So he proposes - that he should hand the dupe the money, and the latter should lend it to - the swindler's brother, exacting a heavy pre-payment of interest which, - it is pointed out, they may equally enjoy in dissipation. The dupe sees - no objection, and on the appointed day receives Rs.7,000 from the - swindler, which he hands over to the confederate. The latter is profuse - in his thanks, and executes a promissory note for Rs.10,000, payable to - bearer. The swindler allows the scheme to remain quiescent for a time, - and then suggests that, as the money has not been repaid and as it would - be unpleasant to sue his brother, it would be better to sell the note in - the bazaar. The dupe hands the note over, for the money he advanced was - not his, and, on being informed that it would be necessary to have his - signature on the back so as to render the security negotiable, he signs - without any hesitation. The swindler passes it on to confederates, and - the latter employ a respectable firm of solicitors to ask the dupe if - his signature is genuine. He admits it at once, and his fate is sealed. - A suit is filed by a confederate against the dupe, two accomplices being - made co-defendants. They admit their Signatures as indorsers, and the - one swears he bought the note for value from the dupe The latter has no - defense, for no court would believe the apparently idle explanation of - the manner in which he came to endorse the note." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There is only one India! It is the only country that has a monopoly of - grand and imposing specialties. When another country has a remarkable - thing, it cannot have it all to itself—some other country has a - duplicate. But India—that is different. Its marvels are its own; the - patents cannot be infringed; imitations are not possible. And think of the - size of them, the majesty of them, the weird and outlandish character of - the most of them! - </p> - <p> - There is the Plague, the Black Death: India invented it; India is the - cradle of that mighty birth. - </p> - <p> - The Car of Juggernaut was India's invention. - </p> - <p> - So was the Suttee; and within the time of men still living eight hundred - widows willingly, and, in fact, rejoicingly, burned themselves to death on - the bodies of their dead husbands in a single year. Eight hundred would do - it this year if the British government would let them. - </p> - <p> - Famine is India's specialty. Elsewhere famines are inconsequential - incidents—in India they are devastating cataclysms; in one case they - annihilate hundreds; in the other, millions. - </p> - <p> - India has 2,000,000 gods, and worships them all. In religion all other - countries are paupers; India is the only millionaire. - </p> - <p> - With her everything is on a giant scale—even her poverty; no other - country can show anything to compare with it. And she has been used to - wealth on so vast a scale that she has to shorten to single words the - expressions describing great sums. She describes 100,000 with one word—a - 'lahk'; she describes ten millions with one word—a 'crore'. - </p> - <p> - In the bowels of the granite mountains she has patiently carved out dozens - of vast temples, and made them glorious with sculptured colonnades and - stately groups of statuary, and has adorned the eternal walls with noble - paintings. She has built fortresses of such magnitude that the - show-strongholds of the rest of the world are but modest little things by - comparison; palaces that are wonders for rarity of materials, delicacy and - beauty of workmanship, and for cost; and one tomb which men go around the - globe to see. It takes eighty nations, speaking eighty languages, to - people her, and they number three hundred millions. - </p> - <p> - On top of all this she is the mother and home of that wonder of wonders—caste—and - of that mystery of mysteries, the satanic brotherhood of the Thugs. - </p> - <p> - India had the start of the whole world in the beginning of things. She had - the first civilization; she had the first accumulation of material wealth; - she was populous with deep thinkers and subtle intellects; she had mines, - and woods, and a fruitful soil. It would seem as if she should have kept - the lead, and should be to-day not the meek dependent of an alien master, - but mistress of the world, and delivering law and command to every tribe - and nation in it. But, in truth, there was never any possibility of such - supremacy for her. If there had been but one India and one language—but - there were eighty of them! Where there are eighty nations and several - hundred governments, fighting and quarreling must be the common business - of life; unity of purpose and policy are impossible; out of such elements - supremacy in the world cannot come. Even caste itself could have had the - defeating effect of a multiplicity of tongues, no doubt; for it separates - a people into layers, and layers, and still other layers, that have no - community of feeling with each other; and in such a condition of things as - that, patriotism can have no healthy growth. - </p> - <p> - It was the division of the country into so many States and nations that - made Thuggee possible and prosperous. It is difficult to realize the - situation. But perhaps one may approximate it by imagining the States of - our Union peopled by separate nations, speaking separate languages, with - guards and custom-houses strung along all frontiers, plenty of - interruptions for travelers and traders, interpreters able to handle all - the languages very rare or non-existent, and a few wars always going on - here and there and yonder as a further embarrassment to commerce and - excursioning. It would make intercommunication in a measure ungeneral. - India had eighty languages, and more custom-houses than cats. No clever - man with the instinct of a highway robber could fail to notice what a - chance for business was here offered. India was full of clever men with - the highwayman instinct, and so, quite naturally, the brotherhood of the - Thugs came into being to meet the long-felt want. - </p> - <p> - How long ago that was nobody knows—centuries, it is supposed. One of - the chiefest wonders connected with it was the success with which it kept - its secret. The English trader did business in India two hundred years and - more before he ever heard of it; and yet it was assassinating its - thousands all around him every year, the whole time.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch44" id="ch44"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLIV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The old saw says, "Let a sleeping dog lie." Right.... Still, when there - is much at stake it is better to get a newspaper to do it.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - FROM DIARY: - </p> - <p> - January 28. I learned of an official Thug-book the other day. I was not - aware before that there was such a thing. I am allowed the temporary use - of it. We are making preparations for travel. Mainly the preparations are - purchases of bedding. This is to be used in sleeping berths in the trains; - in private houses sometimes; and in nine-tenths of the hotels. It is not - realizable; and yet it is true. It is a survival; an apparently - unnecessary thing which in some strange way has outlived the conditions - which once made it necessary. It comes down from a time when the railway - and the hotel did not exist; when the occasional white traveler went - horseback or by bullock-cart, and stopped over night in the small - dak-bungalow provided at easy distances by the government—a shelter, - merely, and nothing more. He had to carry bedding along, or do without. - The dwellings of the English residents are spacious and comfortable and - commodiously furnished, and surely it must be an odd sight to see half a - dozen guests come filing into such a place and dumping blankets and - pillows here and there and everywhere. But custom makes incongruous things - congruous. - </p> - <p> - One buys the bedding, with waterproof hold-all for it at almost any shop—there - is no difficulty about it. - </p> - <p> - January 30. What a spectacle the railway station was, at train-time! It - was a very large station, yet when we arrived it seemed as if the whole - world was present—half of it inside, the other half outside, and - both halves, bearing mountainous head-loads of bedding and other freight, - trying simultaneously to pass each other, in opposing floods, in one - narrow door. These opposing floods were patient, gentle, long-suffering - natives, with whites scattered among them at rare intervals; and wherever - a white man's native servant appeared, that native seemed to have put - aside his natural gentleness for the time and invested himself with the - white man's privilege of making a way for himself by promptly shoving all - intervening black things out of it. In these exhibitions of authority - Satan was scandalous. He was probably a Thug in one of his former - incarnations.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p402.jpg (59K)" src="images/p402.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Inside the great station, tides upon tides of rainbow-costumed natives - swept along, this way and that, in massed and bewildering confusion, - eager, anxious, belated, distressed; and washed up to the long trains and - flowed into them with their packs and bundles, and disappeared, followed - at once by the next wash, the next wave. And here and there, in the midst - of this hurly-burly, and seemingly undisturbed by it, sat great groups of - natives on the bare stone floor,—young, slender brown women, old, - gray wrinkled women, little soft brown babies, old men, young men, boys; - all poor people, but all the females among them, both big and little, - bejeweled with cheap and showy nose-rings, toe-rings, leglets, and - armlets, these things constituting all their wealth, no doubt. These - silent crowds sat there with their humble bundles and baskets and small - household gear about them, and patiently waited—for what? A train - that was to start at some time or other during the day or night! They - hadn't timed themselves well, but that was no matter—the thing had - been so ordered from on high, therefore why worry? There was plenty of - time, hours and hours of it, and the thing that was to happen would happen—there - was no hurrying it. - </p> - <p> - The natives traveled third class, and at marvelously cheap rates. They - were packed and crammed into cars that held each about fifty; and it was - said that often a Brahmin of the highest caste was thus brought into - personal touch, and consequent defilement, with persons of the lowest - castes—no doubt a very shocking thing if a body could understand it - and properly appreciate it. Yes, a Brahmin who didn't own a rupee and - couldn't borrow one, might have to touch elbows with a rich hereditary - lord of inferior caste, inheritor of an ancient title a couple of yards - long, and he would just have to stand it; for if either of the two was - allowed to go in the cars where the sacred white people were, it probably - wouldn't be the august poor Brahmin. There was an immense string of those - third-class cars, for the natives travel by hordes; and a weary hard night - of it the occupants would have, no doubt. - </p> - <p> - When we reached our car, Satan and Barney had already arrived there with - their train of porters carrying bedding and parasols and cigar boxes, and - were at work. We named him Barney for short; we couldn't use his real - name, there wasn't time. - </p> - <p> - It was a car that promised comfort; indeed, luxury. Yet the cost of it—well, - economy could no further go; even in France; not even in Italy. It was - built of the plainest and cheapest partially-smoothed boards, with a - coating of dull paint on them, and there was nowhere a thought of - decoration. The floor was bare, but would not long remain so when the dust - should begin to fly. Across one end of the compartment ran a netting for - the accommodation of hand-baggage; at the other end was a door which would - shut, upon compulsion, but wouldn't stay shut; it opened into a narrow - little closet which had a wash-bowl in one end of it, and a place to put a - towel, in case you had one with you—and you would be sure to have - towels, because you buy them with the bedding, knowing that the railway - doesn't furnish them. On each side of the car, and running fore and aft, - was a broad leather-covered sofa to sit on in the day and sleep on at - night. Over each sofa hung, by straps, a wide, flat, leather-covered shelf—to - sleep on. In the daytime you can hitch it up against the wall, out of the - way—and then you have a big unencumbered and most comfortable room - to spread out in. No car in any country is quite its equal for comfort - (and privacy) I think. For usually there are but two persons in it; and - even when there are four there is but little sense of impaired privacy. - Our own cars at home can surpass the railway world in all details but that - one: they have no cosiness; there are too many people together. - </p> - <p> - At the foot of each sofa was a side-door, for entrance and exit. Along the - whole length of the sofa on each side of the car ran a row of large - single-plate windows, of a blue tint—blue to soften the bitter glare - of the sun and protect one's eyes from torture. These could be let down - out of the way when one wanted the breeze. In the roof were two oil lamps - which gave a light strong enough to read by; each had a green-cloth - attachment by which it could be covered when the light should be no longer - needed. - </p> - <p> - While we talked outside with friends, Barney and Satan placed the - hand-baggage, books, fruits, and soda-bottles in the racks, and the - hold-alls and heavy baggage in the closet, hung the overcoats and - sun-helmets and towels on the hooks, hoisted the two bed-shelves up out of - the way, then shouldered their bedding and retired to the third class. - </p> - <p> - Now then, you see what a handsome, spacious, light, airy, homelike place - it was, wherein to walk up and down, or sit and write, or stretch out and - read and smoke. A central door in the forward end of the compartment - opened into a similar compartment. It was occupied by my wife and - daughter. About nine in the evening, while we halted a while at a station, - Barney and Satan came and undid the clumsy big hold-alls, and spread the - bedding on the sofas in both compartments—mattresses, sheets, gay - coverlets, pillows, all complete; there are no chambermaids in India—apparently - it was an office that was never heard of. Then they closed the - communicating door, nimbly tidied up our place, put the night-clothing on - the beds and the slippers under them, then returned to their own quarters. - </p> - <p> - January 31. It was novel and pleasant, and I stayed awake as long as I - could, to enjoy it, and to read about those strange people the Thugs. In - my sleep they remained with me, and tried to strangle me. The leader of - the gang was that giant Hindoo who was such a picture in the strong light - when we were leaving those Hindoo betrothal festivities at two o'clock in - the morning—Rao Bahadur Baskirao Balinkanje Pitale, Vakeel to the - Gaikwar of Baroda. It was he that brought me the invitation from his - master to go to Baroda and lecture to that prince—and now he was - misbehaving in my dreams. But all things can happen in dreams. It is - indeed as the Sweet Singer of Michigan says—irrelevantly, of course, - for the one and unfailing great quality which distinguishes her poetry - from Shakespeare's and makes it precious to us is its stern and simple - irrelevancy: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - My heart was gay and happy, - </p> - <p> - This was ever in my mind, - </p> - <p> - There is better times a coming, - </p> - <p> - And I hope some day to find - </p> - <p> - Myself capable of composing, - </p> - <p> - It was my heart's delight - </p> - <p> - To compose on a sentimental subject - </p> - <p> - If it came in my mind just right. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - —["The Sentimental Song Book," p. 49; theme, "The Author's Early - Life," 19th stanza.] - </p> - <p> - Barroda. Arrived at 7 this morning. The dawn was just beginning to show. - It was forlorn to have to turn out in a strange place at such a time, and - the blinking lights in the station made it seem night still. But the - gentlemen who had come to receive us were there with their servants, and - they make quick work; there was no lost time. We were soon outside and - moving swiftly through the soft gray light, and presently were comfortably - housed—with more servants to help than we were used to, and with - rather embarassingly important officials to direct them. But it was - custom; they spoke Ballarat English, their bearing was charming and - hospitable, and so all went well. - </p> - <p> - Breakfast was a satisfaction. Across the lawns was visible in the distance - through the open window an Indian well, with two oxen tramping leisurely - up and down long inclines, drawing water; and out of the stillness came - the suffering screech of the machinery—not quite musical, and yet - soothingly melancholy and dreamy and reposeful—a wail of lost - spirits, one might imagine. And commemorative and reminiscent, perhaps; - for of course the Thugs used to throw people down that well when they were - done with them. - </p> - <p> - After breakfast the day began, a sufficiently busy one. We were driven by - winding roads through a vast park, with noble forests of great trees, and - with tangles and jungles of lovely growths of a humbler sort; and at one - place three large gray apes came out and pranced across the road—a - good deal of a surprise and an unpleasant one, for such creatures belong - in the menagerie, and they look artificial and out of place in a - wilderness. - </p> - <p> - We came to the city, by and by, and drove all through it. Intensely - Indian, it was, and crumbly, and mouldering, and immemorially old, to all - appearance. And the houses—oh, indescribably quaint and curious they - were, with their fronts an elaborate lace-work of intricate and beautiful - wood-carving, and now and then further adorned with rude pictures of - elephants and princes and gods done in shouting colors; and all the ground - floors along these cramped and narrow lanes occupied as shops—shops - unbelievably small and impossibly packed with merchantable rubbish, and - with nine-tenths-naked natives squatting at their work of hammering, - pounding, brazing, soldering, sewing, designing, cooking, measuring out - grain, grinding it, repairing idols—and then the swarm of ragged and - noisy humanity under the horses' feet and everywhere, and the pervading - reek and fume and smell! It was all wonderful and delightful. - </p> - <p> - Imagine a file of elephants marching through such a crevice of a street - and scraping the paint off both sides of it with their hides. How big they - must look, and how little they must make the houses look; and when the - elephants are in their glittering court costume, what a contrast they must - make with the humble and sordid surroundings. And when a mad elephant goes - raging through, belting right and left with his trunk, how do these swarms - of people get out of the way? I suppose it is a thing which happens now - and then in the mad season (for elephants have a mad season).<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p409.jpg (47K)" src="images/p409.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I wonder how old the town is. There are patches of building—massive - structures, monuments, apparently—that are so battered and worn, and - seemingly so tired and so burdened with the weight of age, and so dulled - and stupefied with trying to remember things they forgot before history - began, that they give one the feeling that they must have been a part of - original Creation. This is indeed one of the oldest of the princedoms of - India, and has always been celebrated for its barbaric pomps and - splendors, and for the wealth of its princes.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p410.jpg (70K)" src="images/p410.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="ch45" id="ch45"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>It takes your enemy and your friend, working together, to hurt you to - the heart; the one to slander you and the other to get the news to you.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Out of the town again; a long drive through open country, by winding roads - among secluded villages nestling in the inviting shade of tropic - vegetation, a Sabbath stillness everywhere, sometimes a pervading sense of - solitude, but always barefoot natives gliding by like spirits, without - sound of footfall, and others in the distance dissolving away and - vanishing like the creatures of dreams. Now and then a string of stately - camels passed by—always interesting things to look at—and they - were velvet-shod by nature, and made no noise. Indeed, there were no - noises of any sort in this paradise. Yes, once there was one, for a - moment: a file of native convicts passed along in charge of an officer, - and we caught the soft clink of their chains. In a retired spot, resting - himself under a tree, was a holy person—a naked black fakeer, thin - and skinny, and whitey-gray all over with ashes. - </p> - <p> - By and by to the elephant stables, and I took a ride; but it was by - request—I did not ask for it, and didn't want it; but I took it, - because otherwise they would have thought I was afraid, which I was. The - elephant kneels down, by command—one end of him at a time—and - you climb the ladder and get into the howdah, and then he gets up, one end - at a time, just as a ship gets up over a wave; and after that, as he - strides monstrously about, his motion is much like a ship's motion. The - mahout bores into the back of his head with a great iron prod and you - wonder at his temerity and at the elephant's patience, and you think that - perhaps the patience will not last; but it does, and nothing happens. The - mahout talks to the elephant in a low voice all the time, and the elephant - seems to understand it all and to be pleased with it; and he obeys every - order in the most contented and docile way. Among these twenty-five - elephants were two which were larger than any I had ever seen before, and - if I had thought I could learn to not be afraid, I would have taken one of - them while the police were not looking. - </p> - <p> - In the howdah-house there were many howdahs that were made of silver, one - of gold, and one of old ivory, and equipped with cushions and canopies of - rich and costly stuffs. The wardrobe of the elephants was there, too; vast - velvet covers stiff and heavy with gold embroidery; and bells of silver - and gold; and ropes of these metals for fastening the things on—harness, - so to speak; and monster hoops of massive gold for the elephant to wear on - his ankles when he is out in procession on business of state. - </p> - <p> - But we did not see the treasury of crown jewels, and that was a - disappointment, for in mass and richness it ranks only second in India. By - mistake we were taken to see the new palace instead, and we used up the - last remnant of our spare time there. It was a pity, too; for the new - palace is mixed modern American-European, and has not a merit except - costliness. It is wholly foreign to India, and impudent and out of place. - The architect has escaped. This comes of overdoing the suppression of the - Thugs; they had their merits. The old palace is oriental and charming, and - in consonance with the country. The old palace would still be great if - there were nothing of it but the spacious and lofty hall where the durbars - are held. It is not a good place to lecture in, on account of the echoes, - but it is a good place to hold durbars in and regulate the affairs of a - kingdom, and that is what it is for. If I had it I would have a durbar - every day, instead of once or twice a year. - </p> - <p> - The prince is an educated gentleman. His culture is European. He has been - in Europe five times. People say that this is costly amusement for him, - since in crossing the sea he must sometimes be obliged to drink water from - vessels that are more or less public, and thus damage his caste. To get it - purified again he must make pilgrimage to some renowned Hindoo temples and - contribute a fortune or two to them. His people are like the other - Hindoos, profoundly religious; and they could not be content with a master - who was impure. - </p> - <p> - We failed to see the jewels, but we saw the gold cannon and the silver one—they - seemed to be six-pounders. They were not designed for business, but for - salutes upon rare and particularly important state occasions. An ancestor - of the present Gaikwar had the silver one made, and a subsequent ancestor - had the gold one made, in order to outdo him. - </p> - <p> - This sort of artillery is in keeping with the traditions of Baroda, which - was of old famous for style and show. It used to entertain visiting rajahs - and viceroys with tiger-fights, elephant-fights, illuminations, and - elephant-processions of the most glittering and gorgeous character. - </p> - <p> - It makes the circus a pale, poor thing. - </p> - <p> - In the train, during a part of the return journey from Baroda, we had the - company of a gentleman who had with him a remarkable looking dog. I had - not seen one of its kind before, as far as I could remember; though of - course I might have seen one and not noticed it, for I am not acquainted - with dogs, but only with cats. This dog's coat was smooth and shiny and - black, and I think it had tan trimmings around the edges of the dog, and - perhaps underneath. It was a long, low dog, with very short, strange legs—legs - that curved inboard, something like parentheses turned the wrong way (. - Indeed, it was made on the plan of a bench for length and lowness. It - seemed to be satisfied, but I thought the plan poor, and structurally - weak, on account of the distance between the forward supports and those - abaft. With age the dog's back was likely to sag; and it seemed to me that - it would have been a stronger and more practicable dog if it had had some - more legs. It had not begun to sag yet, but the shape of the legs showed - that the undue weight imposed upon them was beginning to tell. It had a - long nose, and floppy ears that hung down, and a resigned expression of - countenance. I did not like to ask what kind of a dog it was, or how it - came to be deformed, for it was plain that the gentleman was very fond of - it, and naturally he could be sensitive about it. From delicacy I thought - it best not to seem to notice it too much. No doubt a man with a dog like - that feels just as a person does who has a child that is out of true. The - gentleman was not merely fond of the dog, he was also proud of it—just - the same again, as a mother feels about her child when it is an idiot. I - could see that he was proud of it, not-withstanding it was such a long dog - and looked so resigned and pious. It had been all over the world with him, - and had been pilgriming like that for years and years. It had traveled - 50,000 miles by sea and rail, and had ridden in front of him on his horse - 8,000. It had a silver medal from the Geographical Society of Great - Britain for its travels, and I saw it. It had won prizes in dog shows, - both in India and in England—I saw them. He said its pedigree was on - record in the Kennel Club, and that it was a well-known dog. He said a - great many people in London could recognize it the moment they saw it. I - did not say anything, but I did not think it anything strange; I should - know that dog again, myself, yet I am not careful about noticing dogs. He - said that when he walked along in London, people often stopped and looked - at the dog. Of course I did not say anything, for I did not want to hurt - his feelings, but I could have explained to him that if you take a great - long low dog like that and waddle it along the street anywhere in the - world and not charge anything, people will stop and look. He was gratified - because the dog took prizes. But that was nothing; if I were built like - that I could take prizes myself. I wished I knew what kind of a dog it - was, and what it was for, but I could not very well ask, for that would - show that I did not know. Not that I want a dog like that, but only to - know the secret of its birth.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p413.jpg (23K)" src="images/p413.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I think he was going to hunt elephants with it, because I know, from - remarks dropped by him, that he has hunted large game in India and Africa, - and likes it. But I think that if he tries to hunt elephants with it, he - is going to be disappointed. - </p> - <p> - I do not believe that it is suited for elephants. It lacks energy, it - lacks force of character, it lacks bitterness. These things all show in - the meekness and resignation of its expression. It would not attack an - elephant, I am sure of it. It might not run if it saw one coming, but it - looked to me like a dog that would sit down and pray. - </p> - <p> - I wish he had told me what breed it was, if there are others; but I shall - know the dog next time, and then if I can bring myself to it I will put - delicacy aside and ask. If I seem strangely interested in dogs, I have a - reason for it; for a dog saved me from an embarrassing position once, and - that has made me grateful to these animals; and if by study I could learn - to tell some of the kinds from the others, I should be greatly pleased. I - only know one kind apart, yet, and that is the kind that saved me that - time. I always know that kind when I meet it, and if it is hungry or lost - I take care of it. The matter happened in this way: - </p> - <p> - It was years and years ago. I had received a note from Mr. Augustin Daly - of the Fifth Avenue Theatre, asking me to call the next time I should be - in New York. I was writing plays, in those days, and he was admiring them - and trying to get me a chance to get them played in Siberia. I took the - first train—the early one—the one that leaves Hartford at 8.29 - in the morning. At New Haven I bought a paper, and found it filled with - glaring display-lines about a "bench-show" there. I had often heard of - bench-shows, but had never felt any interest in them, because I supposed - they were lectures that were not well attended. It turned out, now, that - it was not that, but a dog-show. There was a double-leaded column about - the king-feature of this one, which was called a Saint Bernard, and was - worth $10,000, and was known to be the largest and finest of his species - in the world. I read all this with interest, because out of my school-boy - readings I dimly remembered how the priests and pilgrims of St. Bernard - used to go out in the storms and dig these dogs out of the snowdrifts when - lost and exhausted, and give them brandy and save their lives, and drag - them to the monastery and restore them with gruel. - </p> - <p> - Also, there was a picture of this prize-dog in the paper, a noble great - creature with a benignant countenance, standing by a table. He was placed - in that way so that one could get a right idea of his great dimensions. - You could see that he was just a shade higher than the table—indeed, - a huge fellow for a dog. Then there was a description which went into the - details. It gave his enormous weight—150 1/2 pounds, and his length - 4 feet 2 inches, from stem to stern-post; and his height—3 feet 1 - inch, to the top of his back. The pictures and the figures so impressed - me, that I could see the beautiful colossus before me, and I kept on - thinking about him for the next two hours; then I reached New York, and he - dropped out of my mind. - </p> - <p> - In the swirl and tumult of the hotel lobby I ran across Mr. Daly's - comedian, the late James Lewis, of beloved memory, and I casually - mentioned that I was going to call upon Mr. Daly in the evening at 8. He - looked surprised, and said he reckoned not. For answer I handed him Mr. - Daly's note. Its substance was: "Come to my private den, over the theater, - where we cannot be interrupted. And come by the back way, not the front. - No. 642 Sixth Avenue is a cigar shop; pass through it and you are in a - paved court, with high buildings all around; enter the second door on the - left, and come up stairs." - </p> - <p> - "Is this all?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes," I said. - </p> - <p> - "Well, you'll never get in" - </p> - <p> - "Why?" - </p> - <p> - "Because you won't. Or if you do you can draw on me for a hundred dollars; - for you will be the first man that has accomplished it in twenty-five - years. I can't think what Mr. Daly can have been absorbed in. He has - forgotten a most important detail, and he will feel humiliated in the - morning when he finds that you tried to get in and couldn't." - </p> - <p> - "Why, what is the trouble?" - </p> - <p> - "I'll tell you. You see——" - </p> - <p> - At that point we were swept apart by the crowd, somebody detained me with - a moment's talk, and we did not get together again. But it did not matter; - I believed he was joking, anyway. - </p> - <p> - At eight in the evening I passed through the cigar shop and into the court - and knocked at the second door. - </p> - <p> - "Come in!" - </p> - <p> - I entered. It was a small room, carpetless, dusty, with a naked deal - table, and two cheap wooden chairs for furniture. A giant Irishman was - standing there, with shirt collar and vest unbuttoned, and no coat on. I - put my hat on the table, and was about to say something, when the Irishman - took the innings himself. And not with marked courtesy of tone: - </p> - <p> - "Well, sor, what will <i>you</i> have?"<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p418.jpg (45K)" src="images/p418.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I was a little disconcerted, and my easy confidence suffered a shrinkage. - The man stood as motionless as Gibraltar, and kept his unblinking eye upon - me. It was very embarrassing, very humiliating. I stammered at a false - start or two; then—— - </p> - <p> - "I have just run down from——" - </p> - <p> - "Av ye plaze, ye'll not smoke here, ye understand." - </p> - <p> - I laid my cigar on the window-ledge; chased my flighty thoughts a moment, - then said in a placating manner: - </p> - <p> - "I—I have come to see Mr. Daly." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, ye have, have ye?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes" - </p> - <p> - "Well, ye'll not see him." - </p> - <p> - "But he asked <i>me</i> to come." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, <i>he</i> did, did <i>he</i>?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes, <i>he</i> sent me this note, and——" - </p> - <p> - "Lemme see it." - </p> - <p> - For a moment I fancied there would be a change in the atmosphere, now; but - this idea was premature. The big man was examining the note searchingly - under the gas-jet. A glance showed me that he had it upside down—disheartening - evidence that he could not read.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p420.jpg (13K)" src="images/p420.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - "Is ut his own handwrite?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes—he wrote it himself." - </p> - <p> - "He did, did he?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "H'm. Well, then, why ud he write it like that?" - </p> - <p> - "How do you mean?" - </p> - <p> - "I mane, why wudn't he put his naime to ut?" - </p> - <p> - "His name is to it. That's not it—you are looking at my name." - </p> - <p> - I thought that that was a home shot, but he did not betray that he had - been hit. He said: - </p> - <p> - "It's not an aisy one to spell; how do you pronounce ut?" - </p> - <p> - "Mark Twain." - </p> - <p> - "H'm. H'm. Mike Train. H'm. I don't remember ut. What is it ye want to see - him about?" - </p> - <p> - "It isn't I that want to see him, he wants to see me." - </p> - <p> - "Oh, he does, does he?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." - </p> - <p> - "What does he want to see ye about?" - </p> - <p> - "I don't know." - </p> - <p> - "Ye don't know! And ye confess it, becod! Well, I can tell ye wan thing—ye'll - not see him. Are ye in the business?" - </p> - <p> - "What business?" - </p> - <p> - "The show business." - </p> - <p> - A fatal question. I recognized that I was defeated. If I answered no, he - would cut the matter short and wave me to the door without the grace of a - word—I saw it in his uncompromising eye; if I said I was a lecturer, - he would despise me, and dismiss me with opprobrious words; if I said I - was a dramatist, he would throw me out of the window. I saw that my case - was hopeless, so I chose the course which seemed least humiliating: I - would pocket my shame and glide out without answering. The silence was - growing lengthy. - </p> - <p> - "I'll ask ye again. Are ye in the show business yerself?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes!" - </p> - <p> - I said it with splendid confidence; for in that moment the very twin of - that grand New Haven dog loafed into the room, and I saw that Irishman's - eye light eloquently with pride and affection. - </p> - <p> - "Ye are? And what is it?" - </p> - <p> - "I've got a bench-show in New Haven." - </p> - <p> - The weather did change then. - </p> - <p> - "You don't say, sir! And that's your show, sir! Oh, it's a grand show, - it's a wonderful show, sir, and a proud man I am to see your honor this - day. And ye'll be an expert, sir, and ye'll know all about dogs—more - than ever they know theirselves, I'll take me oath to ut."<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p423.jpg (52K)" src="images/p423.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I said, with modesty: - </p> - <p> - "I believe I have some reputation that way. In fact, my business requires - it." - </p> - <p> - "Ye have some reputation, your honor! Bedad I believe you! There's not a - jintleman in the worrld that can lay over ye in the judgmint of a dog, - sir. Now I'll vinture that your honor'll know that dog's dimensions there - better than he knows them his own self, and just by the casting of your - educated eye upon him. Would you mind giving a guess, if ye'll be so - good?" - </p> - <p> - I knew that upon my answer would depend my fate. If I made this dog bigger - than the prize-dog, it would be bad diplomacy, and suspicious; if I fell - too far short of the prizedog, that would be equally damaging. The dog was - standing by the table, and I believed I knew the difference between him - and the one whose picture I had seen in the newspaper to a shade. I spoke - promptly up and said: - </p> - <p> - "It's no trouble to guess this noble creature's figures: height, three - feet; length, four feet and three-quarters of an inch; weight, a hundred - and forty-eight and a quarter." - </p> - <p> - The man snatched his hat from its peg and danced on it with joy, shouting: - </p> - <p> - "Ye've hardly missed it the hair's breadth, hardly the shade of a shade, - your honor! Oh, it's the miraculous eye ye've got, for the judgmint of a - dog!" - </p> - <p> - And still pouring out his admiration of my capacities, he snatched off his - vest and scoured off one of the wooden chairs with it, and scrubbed it and - polished it, and said: - </p> - <p> - "There, sit down, your honor, I'm ashamed of meself that I forgot ye were - standing all this time; and do put on your hat, ye mustn't take cold, it's - a drafty place; and here is your cigar, sir, a getting cold, I'll give ye - a light. There. The place is all yours, sir, and if ye'll just put your - feet on the table and make yourself at home, I'll stir around and get a - candle and light ye up the ould crazy stairs and see that ye don't come to - anny harm, for be this time Mr. Daly'll be that impatient to see your - honor that he'll be taking the roof off."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p425.jpg (15K)" src="images/p425.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - He conducted me cautiously and tenderly up the stairs, lighting the way - and protecting me with friendly warnings, then pushed the door open and - bowed me in and went his way, mumbling hearty things about my wonderful - eye for points of a dog. Mr. Daly was writing and had his back to me. He - glanced over his shoulder presently, then jumped up and said— - </p> - <p> - "Oh, dear me, I forgot all about giving instructions. I was just writing - you to beg a thousand pardons. But how is it you are here? How did you get - by that Irishman? You are the first man that's done it in five and twenty - years. You didn't bribe him, I know that; there's not money enough in New - York to do it. And you didn't persuade him; he is all ice and iron: there - isn't a soft place nor a warm one in him anywhere. What is your secret? - Look here; you owe me a hundred dollars for unintentionally giving you a - chance to perform a miracle—for it is a miracle that you've done." - </p> - <p> - "That is all right," I said, "collect it of Jimmy Lewis." - </p> - <p> - That good dog not only did me that good turn in the time of my need, but - he won for me the envious reputation among all the theatrical people from - the Atlantic to the Pacific of being the only man in history who had ever - run the blockade of Augustin Daly's back door.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch46" id="ch46"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>If the desire to kill and the opportunity to kill came always together, - who would escape hanging.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - On the Train. Fifty years ago, when I was a boy in the then remote and - sparsely peopled Mississippi valley, vague tales and rumors of a - mysterious body of professional murderers came wandering in from a country - which was constructively as far from us as the constellations blinking in - space—India; vague tales and rumors of a sect called Thugs, who - waylaid travelers in lonely places and killed them for the contentment of - a god whom they worshiped; tales which everybody liked to listen to and - nobody believed, except with reservations. It was considered that the - stories had gathered bulk on their travels. The matter died down and a - lull followed. Then Eugene Sue's "Wandering Jew" appeared, and made great - talk for a while. One character in it was a chief of Thugs—"Feringhea"—a - mysterious and terrible Indian who was as slippery and sly as a serpent, - and as deadly; and he stirred up the Thug interest once more. But it did - not last. It presently died again this time to stay dead. - </p> - <p> - At first glance it seems strange that this should have happened; but - really it was not strange—on the contrary—it was natural; I - mean on our side of the water. For the source whence the Thug tales mainly - came was a Government Report, and without doubt was not republished in - America; it was probably never even seen there. Government Reports have no - general circulation. They are distributed to the few, and are not always - read by those few. I heard of this Report for the first time a day or two - ago, and borrowed it. It is full of fascinations; and it turns those dim, - dark fairy tales of my boyhood days into realities. - </p> - <p> - The Report was made in 1839 by Major Sleeman, of the Indian Service, and - was printed in Calcutta in 1840. It is a clumsy, great, fat, poor sample - of the printer's art, but good enough for a government printing-office in - that old day and in that remote region, perhaps. To Major Sleeman was - given the general superintendence of the giant task of ridding India of - Thuggee, and he and his seventeen assistants accomplished it. It was the - Augean Stables over again. Captain Vallancey, writing in a Madras journal - in those old times, makes this remark: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The day that sees this far-spread evil eradicated from India and known - only in name, will greatly tend to immortalize British rule in the - East." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - He did not overestimate the magnitude and difficulty of the work, nor the - immensity of the credit which would justly be due to British rule in case - it was accomplished. - </p> - <p> - Thuggee became known to the British authorities in India about 1810, but - its wide prevalence was not suspected; it was not regarded as a serious - matter, and no systematic measures were taken for its suppression until - about 1830. About that time Major Sleeman captured Eugene Sue's - Thug-chief, "Feringhea," and got him to turn King's evidence. The - revelations were so stupefying that Sleeman was not able to believe them. - Sleeman thought he knew every criminal within his jurisdiction, and that - the worst of them were merely thieves; but Feringhea told him that he was - in reality living in the midst of a swarm of professional murderers; that - they had been all about him for many years, and that they buried their - dead close by. These seemed insane tales; but Feringhea said come and see—and - he took him to a grave and dug up a hundred bodies, and told him all the - circumstances of the killings, and named the Thugs who had done the work. - It was a staggering business. Sleeman captured some of these Thugs and - proceeded to examine them separately, and with proper precautions against - collusion; for he would not believe any Indian's unsupported word. The - evidence gathered proved the truth of what Feringhea had said, and also - revealed the fact that gangs of Thugs were plying their trade all over - India. The astonished government now took hold of Thuggee, and for ten - years made systematic and relentless war upon it, and finally destroyed - it. Gang after gang was captured, tried, and punished. The Thugs were - harried and hunted from one end of India to the other. The government got - all their secrets out of them; and also got the names of the members of - the bands, and recorded them in a book, together with their birthplaces - and places of residence. - </p> - <p> - The Thugs were worshipers of Bhowanee; and to this god they sacrificed - anybody that came handy; but they kept the dead man's things themselves, - for the god cared for nothing but the corpse. Men were initiated into the - sect with solemn ceremonies. Then they were taught how to strangle a - person with the sacred choke-cloth, but were not allowed to perform - officially with it until after long practice. No half-educated strangler - could choke a man to death quickly enough to keep him from uttering a - sound—a muffled scream, gurgle, gasp, moan, or something of the - sort; but the expert's work was instantaneous: the cloth was whipped - around the victim's neck, there was a sudden twist, and the head fell - silently forward, the eyes starting from the sockets; and all was over. - The Thug carefully guarded against resistance. It was usual to to get the - victims to sit down, for that was the handiest position for business. - </p> - <p> - If the Thug had planned India itself it could not have been more - conveniently arranged for the needs of his occupation. - </p> - <p> - There were no public conveyances. There were no conveyances for hire. The - traveler went on foot or in a bullock cart or on a horse which he bought - for the purpose. As soon as he was out of his own little State or - principality he was among strangers; nobody knew him, nobody took note of - him, and from that time his movements could no longer be traced. He did - not stop in towns or villages, but camped outside of them and sent his - servants in to buy provisions. There were no habitations between villages. - Whenever he was between villages he was an easy prey, particularly as he - usually traveled by night, to avoid the heat. He was always being - overtaken by strangers who offered him the protection of their company, or - asked for the protection of his—and these strangers were often - Thugs, as he presently found out to his cost. The landholders, the native - police, the petty princes, the village officials, the customs officers - were in many cases protectors and harborers of the Thugs, and betrayed - travelers to them for a share of the spoil. At first this condition of - things made it next to impossible for the government to catch the - marauders; they were spirited away by these watchful friends. All through - a vast continent, thus infested, helpless people of every caste and kind - moved along the paths and trails in couples and groups silently by night, - carrying the commerce of the country—treasure, jewels, money, and - petty batches of silks, spices, and all manner of wares. It was a paradise - for the Thug. - </p> - <p> - When the autumn opened, the Thugs began to gather together by pre-concert. - Other people had to have interpreters at every turn, but not the Thugs; - they could talk together, no matter how far apart they were born, for they - had a language of their own, and they had secret signs by which they knew - each other for Thugs; and they were always friends. Even their diversities - of religion and caste were sunk in devotion to their calling, and the - Moslem and the high-caste and low-caste Hindoo were staunch and - affectionate brothers in Thuggery. - </p> - <p> - When a gang had been assembled, they had religious worship, and waited for - an omen. They had definite notions about the omens. The cries of certain - animals were good omens, the cries of certain other creatures were bad - omens. A bad omen would stop proceedings and send the men home. - </p> - <p> - The sword and the strangling-cloth were sacred emblems. The Thugs - worshiped the sword at home before going out to the assembling-place; the - strangling-cloth was worshiped at the place of assembly. The chiefs of - most of the bands performed the religious ceremonies themselves; but the - Kaets delegated them to certain official stranglers (Chaurs). The rites of - the Kaets were so holy that no one but the Chaur was allowed to touch the - vessels and other things used in them. - </p> - <p> - Thug methods exhibit a curious mixture of caution and the absence of it; - cold business calculation and sudden, unreflecting impulse; but there were - two details which were constant, and not subject to caprice: patient - persistence in following up the prey, and pitilessness when the time came - to act. - </p> - <p> - Caution was exhibited in the strength of the bands. They never felt - comfortable and confident unless their strength exceeded that of any party - of travelers they were likely to meet by four or fivefold. Yet it was - never their purpose to attack openly, but only when the victims were off - their guard. When they got hold of a party of travelers they often moved - along in their company several days, using all manner of arts to win their - friendship and get their confidence. At last, when this was accomplished - to their satisfaction, the real business began. A few Thugs were privately - detached and sent forward in the dark to select a good killing-place and - dig the graves. When the rest reached the spot a halt was called, for a - rest or a smoke. The travelers were invited to sit. By signs, the chief - appointed certain Thugs to sit down in front of the travelers as if to - wait upon them, others to sit down beside them and engage them in - conversation, and certain expert stranglers to stand behind the travelers - and be ready when the signal was given. The signal was usually some - commonplace remark, like "Bring the tobacco." Sometimes a considerable - wait ensued after all the actors were in their places—the chief was - biding his time, in order to make everything sure. Meantime, the talk - droned on, dim figures moved about in the dull light, peace and - tranquility reigned, the travelers resigned themselves to the pleasant - reposefulness and comfort of the situation, unconscious of the - death-angels standing motionless at their backs. The time was ripe, now, - and the signal came: "Bring the tobacco." There was a mute swift movement, - all in the same instant the men at each victim's sides seized his hands, - the man in front seized his feet, and pulled, the man at his back whipped - the cloth around his neck and gave it a twist—the head sunk forward, - the tragedy was over. The bodies were stripped and covered up in the - graves, the spoil packed for transportation, then the Thugs gave pious - thanks to Bhowanee, and departed on further holy service. - </p> - <p> - The Report shows that the travelers moved in exceedingly small groups—twos, - threes, fours, as a rule; a party with a dozen in it was rare. The Thugs - themselves seem to have been the only people who moved in force. They went - about in gangs of 10, 15, 25, 40, 60, 100, 150, 200, 250, and one gang of - 310 is mentioned. Considering their numbers, their catch was not - extraordinary—particularly when you consider that they were not in - the least fastidious, but took anybody they could get, whether rich or - poor, and sometimes even killed children. Now and then they killed women, - but it was considered sinful to do it, and unlucky. The "season" was six - or eight months long. One season the half dozen Bundelkand and Gwalior - gangs aggregated 712 men, and they murdered 210 people. One season the - Malwa and Kandeish gangs aggregated 702 men, and they murdered 232. One - season the Kandeish and Berar gangs aggregated 963 men, and they murdered - 385 people. - </p> - <p> - Here is the tally-sheet of a gang of sixty Thugs for a whole season—gang - under two noted chiefs, "Chotee and Sheik Nungoo from Gwalior": - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Left Poora, in Jhansee, and on arrival at Sarora murdered a traveler. - </p> - <p> - "On nearly reaching Bhopal, met 3 Brahmins, and murdered them. - </p> - <p> - "Cross the Nerbudda; at a village called Hutteea, murdered a Hindoo. - </p> - <p> - "Went through Aurungabad to Walagow; there met a Havildar of the barber - caste and 5 sepoys (native soldiers); in the evening came to Jokur, and - in the morning killed them near the place where the treasure-bearers - were killed the year before. - </p> - <p> - "Between Jokur and Dholeea met a sepoy of the shepherd caste; killed him - in the jungle. - </p> - <p> - "Passed through Dholeea and lodged in a village; two miles beyond, on - the road to Indore, met a Byragee (beggar-holy mendicant); murdered him - at the Thapa. - </p> - <p> - "In the morning, beyond the Thapa, fell in with 3 Marwarie travelers; - murdered them. - </p> - <p> - "Near a village on the banks of the Taptee met 4 travelers and killed - them. - </p> - <p> - "Between Choupra and Dhoreea met a Marwarie; murdered him. - </p> - <p> - "At Dhoreea met 3 Marwaries; took them two miles and murdered them. - </p> - <p> - "Two miles further on, overtaken by three treasure-bearers; took them - two miles and murdered them in the jungle. - </p> - <p> - "Came on to Khurgore Bateesa in Indore, divided spoil, and dispersed. - </p> - <p> - "A total of 27 men murdered on one expedition." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Chotee (to save his neck) was informer, and furnished these facts. Several - things are noticeable about his resume. 1. Business brevity; 2, absence of - emotion; 3, smallness of the parties encountered by the 60; 4, variety in - character and quality of the game captured; 5, Hindoo and Mohammedan - chiefs in business together for Bhowanee; 6, the sacred caste of the - Brahmins not respected by either; 7, nor yet the character of that - mendicant, that Byragee. - </p> - <p> - A beggar is a holy creature, and some of the gangs spared him on that - account, no matter how slack business might be; but other gangs - slaughtered not only him, but even that sacredest of sacred creatures, the - fakeer—that repulsive skin-and-bone thing that goes around naked and - mats his bushy hair with dust and dirt, and so beflours his lean body with - ashes that he looks like a specter. Sometimes a fakeer trusted a shade too - far in the protection of his sacredness. In the middle of a tally-sheet of - Feringhea's, who had been out with forty Thugs, I find a case of the kind. - After the killing of thirty-nine men and one woman, the fakeer appears on - the scene: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Approaching Doregow, met 3 pundits; also a fakeer, mounted on a pony; - he was plastered over with sugar to collect flies, and was covered with - them. Drove off the fakeer, and killed the other three. - </p> - <p> - "Leaving Doregow, the fakeer joined again, and went on in company to - Raojana; met 6 Khutries on their way from Bombay to Nagpore. Drove off - the fakeer with stones, and killed the 6 men in camp, and buried them in - the grove. - </p> - <p> - "Next day the fakeer joined again; made him leave at Mana. Beyond there, - fell in with two Kahars and a sepoy, and came on towards the place - selected for the murder. When near it, the fakeer came again. Losing all - patience with him, gave Mithoo, one of the gang, 5 rupees ($2.50) to - murder him, and take the sin upon himself. All four were strangled, - including the fakeer. Surprised to find among the fakeer's effects 30 - pounds of coral, 350 strings of small pearls, 15 strings of large - pearls, and a gilt necklace." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It it curious, the little effect that time has upon a really interesting - circumstance. This one, so old, so long ago gone down into oblivion, reads - with the same freshness and charm that attach to the news in the morning - paper; one's spirits go up, then down, then up again, following the - chances which the fakeer is running; now you hope, now you despair, now - you hope again; and at last everything comes out right, and you feel a - great wave of personal satisfaction go weltering through you, and without - thinking, you put out your hand to pat Mithoo on the back, when—puff! - the whole thing has vanished away, there is nothing there; Mithoo and all - the crowd have been dust and ashes and forgotten, oh, so many, many, many - lagging years! And then comes a sense of injury: you don't know whether - Mithoo got the swag, along with the sin, or had to divide up the swag and - keep all the sin himself. There is no literary art about a government - report. It stops a story right in the most interesting place. - </p> - <p> - These reports of Thug expeditions run along interminably in one monotonous - tune: "Met a sepoy—killed him; met 5 pundits—killed them; met - 4 Rajpoots and a woman—killed them"—and so on, till the - statistics get to be pretty dry. But this small trip of Feringhea's Forty - had some little variety about it. Once they came across a man hiding in a - grave—a thief; he had stolen 1,100 rupees from Dhunroj Seith of - Parowtee. They strangled him and took the money. They had no patience with - thieves. They killed two treasure-bearers, and got 4,000 rupees. They came - across two bullocks "laden with copper pice," and killed the four drivers - and took the money. There must have been half a ton of it. I think it - takes a double handful of pice to make an anna, and 16 annas to make a - rupee; and even in those days the rupee was worth only half a dollar. - Coming back over their tracks from Baroda, they had another picturesque - stroke of luck: "'The Lohars of Oodeypore' put a traveler in their charge - for safety." Dear, dear, across this abyssmal gulf of time we still see - Feringhea's lips uncover his teeth, and through the dim haze we catch the - incandescent glimmer of his smile. He accepted that trust, good man; and - so we know what went with the traveler. - </p> - <p> - Even Rajahs had no terrors for Feringhea; he came across an - elephant-driver belonging to the Rajah of Oodeypore and promptly strangled - him. - </p> - <p> - "A total of 100 men and 5 women murdered on this expedition." - </p> - <p> - Among the reports of expeditions we find mention of victims of almost - every quality and estate: - </p> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - Native soldiers. - Fakeers. - Mendicants. - Holy-water carriers. - Carpenters. - Peddlers. - Tailors. - Blacksmiths. - Policemen (native). - Pastry cooks. - Grooms. - Mecca pilgrims. - Chuprassies. - Treasure-bearers. - Children. - Cowherds. - Gardeners. - Shopkeepers. - Palanquin-bearers. - Farmers. - Bullock-drivers. - Male servants seeking work. - Women servants seeking work. - Shepherds. - Archers. - Table-waiters. - Weavers. - Priests. - Bankers. - Boatmen. - Merchants. - Grass-cutters. -</pre> - <p> - Also a prince's cook; and even the water-carrier of that sublime lord of - lords and king of kings, the Governor-General of India! How broad they - were in their tastes! They also murdered actors—poor wandering - barnstormers. There are two instances recorded; the first one by a gang of - Thugs under a chief who soils a great name borne by a better man—Kipling's - deathless "Gungadin": - </p> - <p> - "After murdering 4 sepoys, going on toward Indore, met 4 strolling - players, and persuaded them to come with us, on the pretense that we would - see their performance at the next stage. Murdered them at a temple near - Bhopal." - </p> - <p> - Second instance: - </p> - <p> - "At Deohuttee, joined by comedians. Murdered them eastward of that place." - </p> - <p> - But this gang was a particularly bad crew. On that expedition they - murdered a fakeer and twelve beggars. And yet Bhowanee protected them; for - once when they were strangling a man in a wood when a crowd was going by - close at hand and the noose slipped and the man screamed, Bhowanee made a - camel burst out at the same moment with a roar that drowned the scream; - and before the man could repeat it the breath was choked out of his body. - </p> - <p> - The cow is so sacred in India that to kill her keeper is an awful - sacrilege, and even the Thugs recognized this; yet now and then the lust - for blood was too strong, and so they did kill a few cow-keepers. In one - of these instances the witness who killed the cowherd said, "In Thuggee - this is strictly forbidden, and is an act from which no good can come. I - was ill of a fever for ten days afterward. I do believe that evil will - follow the murder of a man with a cow. If there be no cow it does not - signify." Another Thug said he held the cowherd's feet while this witness - did the strangling. He felt no concern, "because the bad fortune of such a - deed is upon the strangler and not upon the assistants; even if there - should be a hundred of them." - </p> - <p> - There were thousands of Thugs roving over India constantly, during many - generations. They made Thuggee a hereditary vocation and taught it to - their sons and to their son's sons. Boys were in full membership as early - as 16 years of age; veterans were still at work at 70. What was the - fascination, what was the impulse? Apparently, it was partly piety, - largely gain, and there is reason to suspect that the sport afforded was - the chiefest fascination of all. Meadows Taylor makes a Thug in one of his - books claim that the pleasure of killing men was the white man's - beast-hunting instinct enlarged, refined, ennobled. I will quote the - passage:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch47" id="ch47"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Simple rules for saving money: To save half, when you are fired by an - eager impulse to contribute to a charity, wait, and count forty. To save - three-quarters, count sixty. To save it all, count sixty-five.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The Thug said: - </p> - <p> - "How many of you English are passionately devoted to sporting! Your days - and months are passed in its excitement. A tiger, a panther, a buffalo or - a hog rouses your utmost energies for its destruction—you even risk - your lives in its pursuit. How much higher game is a Thug's!" - </p> - <p> - That must really be the secret of the rise and development of Thuggee. The - joy of killing! the joy of seeing killing done—these are traits of - the human race at large. We white people are merely modified Thugs; Thugs - fretting under the restraints of a not very thick skin of civilization; - Thugs who long ago enjoyed the slaughter of the Roman arena, and later the - burning of doubtful Christians by authentic Christians in the public - squares, and who now, with the Thugs of Spain and Nimes, flock to enjoy - the blood and misery of the bullring. We have no tourists of either sex or - any religion who are able to resist the delights of the bull-ring when - opportunity offers; and we are gentle Thugs in the hunting-season, and - love to chase a tame rabbit and kill it. Still, we have made some - progress-microscopic, and in truth scarcely worth mentioning, and - certainly nothing to be proud of—still, it is progress: we no longer - take pleasure in slaughtering or burning helpless men. We have reached a - little altitude where we may look down upon the Indian Thugs with a - complacent shudder; and we may even hope for a day, many centuries hence, - when our posterity will look down upon us in the same way. - </p> - <p> - There are many indications that the Thug often hunted men for the mere - sport of it; that the fright and pain of the quarry were no more to him - than are the fright and pain of the rabbit or the stag to us; and that he - was no more ashamed of beguiling his game with deceits and abusing its - trust than are we when we have imitated a wild animal's call and shot it - when it honored us with its confidence and came to see what we wanted: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Madara, son of Nihal, and I, Ramzam, set out from Kotdee in the cold - weather and followed the high road for about twenty days in search of - travelers, until we came to Selempore, where we met a very old man going - to the east. We won his confidence in this manner: he carried a load - which was too heavy for his old age; I said to him, 'You are an old man, - I will aid you in carrying your load, as you are from my part of the - country.' He said, 'Very well, take me with you.' So we took him with us - to Selempore, where we slept that night. We woke him next morning before - dawn and set out, and at the distance of three miles we seated him to - rest while it was still very dark. Madara was ready behind him, and - strangled him. He never spoke a word. He was about 60 or 70 years of - age." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Another gang fell in with a couple of barbers and persuaded them to come - along in their company by promising them the job of shaving the whole crew—30 - Thugs. At the place appointed for the murder 15 got shaved, and actually - paid the barbers for their work. Then killed them and took back the money. - </p> - <p> - A gang of forty-two Thugs came across two Brahmins and a shopkeeper on the - road, beguiled them into a grove and got up a concert for their - entertainment. While these poor fellows were listening to the music the - stranglers were standing behind them; and at the proper moment for - dramatic effect they applied the noose. - </p> - <p> - The most devoted fisherman must have a bite at least as often as once a - week or his passion will cool and he will put up his tackle. The - tiger-sportsman must find a tiger at least once a fortnight or he will get - tired and quit. The elephant-hunter's enthusiasm will waste away little by - little, and his zeal will perish at last if he plod around a month without - finding a member of that noble family to assassinate. - </p> - <p> - But when the lust in the hunter's heart is for the noblest of all - quarries, man, how different is the case! and how watery and poor is the - zeal and how childish the endurance of those other hunters by comparison. - Then, neither hunger, nor thirst, nor fatigue, nor deferred hope, nor - monotonous disappointment, nor leaden-footed lapse of time can conquer the - hunter's patience or weaken the joy of his quest or cool the splendid rage - of his desire. Of all the hunting-passions that burn in the breast of man, - there is none that can lift him superior to discouragements like these but - the one—the royal sport, the supreme sport, whose quarry is his - brother. By comparison, tiger-hunting is a colorless poor thing, for all - it has been so bragged about. - </p> - <p> - Why, the Thug was content to tramp patiently along, afoot, in the wasting - heat of India, week after week, at an average of nine or ten miles a day, - if he might but hope to find game some time or other and refresh his - longing soul with blood. Here is an instance: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "I (Ramzam) and Hyder set out, for the purpose of strangling travelers, - from Guddapore, and proceeded via the Fort of Julalabad, Newulgunge, - Bangermow, on the banks of the Ganges (upwards of 100 miles), from - whence we returned by another route. Still no travelers! till we reached - Bowaneegunge, where we fell in with a traveler, a boatman; we inveigled - him and about two miles east of there Hyder strangled him as he stood—for - he was troubled and afraid, and would not sit. We then made a long - journey (about 130 miles) and reached Hussunpore Bundwa, where at the - tank we fell in with a traveler—he slept there that night; next - morning we followed him and tried to win his confidence; at the distance - of two miles we endeavored to induce him to sit down—but he would - not, having become aware of us. I attempted to strangle him as he walked - along, but did not succeed; both of us then fell upon him, he made a - great outcry, 'They are murdering me!' at length we strangled him and - flung his body into a well. After this we returned to our homes, having - been out a month and traveled about 260 miles. A total of two men - murdered on the expedition." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - And here is another case-related by the terrible Futty Khan, a man with a - tremendous record, to be re-mentioned by and by: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "I, with three others, traveled for about 45 days a distance of about - 200 miles in search of victims along the highway to Bundwa and returned - by Davodpore (another 200 miles) during which journey we had only one - murder, which happened in this manner. Four miles to the east of - Noubustaghat we fell in with a traveler, an old man. I, with Koshal and - Hyder, inveigled him and accompanied him that day within 3 miles of - Rampoor, where, after dark, in a lonely place, we got him to sit down - and rest; and while I kept him in talk, seated before him, Hyder behind - strangled him: he made no resistance. Koshal stabbed him under the arms - and in the throat, and we flung the body into a running stream. We got - about 4 or 5 rupees each ($2 or $2.50). We then proceeded homewards. A - total of one man murdered on this expedition." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There. They tramped 400 miles, were gone about three months, and harvested - two dollars and a half apiece. But the mere pleasure of the hunt was - sufficient. That was pay enough. They did no grumbling. - </p> - <p> - Every now and then in this big book one comes across that pathetic remark: - "we tried to get him to sit down but he would not." It tells the whole - story. Some accident had awakened the suspicion in him that these smooth - friends who had been petting and coddling him and making him feel so safe - and so fortunate after his forlorn and lonely wanderings were the dreaded - Thugs; and now their ghastly invitation to "sit and rest" had confirmed - its truth. He knew there was no help for him, and that he was looking his - last upon earthly things, but "he would not sit." No, not that—it - was too awful to think of! - </p> - <p> - There are a number of instances which indicate that when a man had once - tasted the regal joys of man-hunting he could not be content with the dull - monotony of a crimeless life after ward. Example, from a Thug's testimony: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "We passed through to Kurnaul, where we found a former Thug named - Junooa, an old comrade of ours, who had turned religious mendicant and - become a disciple and holy. He came to us in the serai and weeping with - joy returned to his old trade." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Neither wealth nor honors nor dignities could satisfy a reformed Thug for - long. He would throw them all away, someday, and go back to the lurid - pleasures of hunting men, and being hunted himself by the British. - </p> - <p> - Ramzam was taken into a great native grandee's service and given authority - over five villages. "My authority extended over these people to summons - them to my presence, to make them stand or sit. I dressed well, rode my - pony, and had two sepoys, a scribe and a village guard to attend me. - During three years I used to pay each village a monthly visit, and no one - suspected that I was a Thug! The chief man used to wait on me to transact - business, and as I passed along, old and young made their salaam to me." - </p> - <p> - And yet during that very three years he got leave of absence "to attend a - wedding," and instead went off on a Thugging lark with six other Thugs and - hunted the highway for fifteen days!—with satisfactory results. - </p> - <p> - Afterwards he held a great office under a Rajah. There he had ten miles of - country under his command and a military guard of fifteen men, with - authority to call out 2,000 more upon occasion. But the British got on his - track, and they crowded him so that he had to give himself up. See what a - figure he was when he was gotten up for style and had all his things on: - "I was fully armed—a sword, shield, pistols, a matchlock musket and - a flint gun, for I was fond of being thus arrayed, and when so armed - feared not though forty men stood before me." - </p> - <p> - He gave himself up and proudly proclaimed himself a Thug. Then by request - he agreed to betray his friend and pal, Buhram, a Thug with the most - tremendous record in India. "I went to the house where Buhram slept (often - has he led our gangs!) I woke him, he knew me well, and came outside to - me. It was a cold night, so under pretence of warming myself, but in - reality to have light for his seizure by the guards, I lighted some straw - and made a blaze. We were warming our hands. The guards drew around us. I - said to them, 'This is Buhram,' and he was seized just as a cat seizes a - mouse. Then Buhram said, 'I am a Thug! my father was a Thug, my - grandfather was a Thug, and I have thugged with many!'" - </p> - <p> - So spoke the mighty hunter, the mightiest of the mighty, the Gordon - Cumming of his day. Not much regret noticeable in it.—["Having - planted a bullet in the shoulder-bone of an elephant, and caused the - agonized creature to lean for support against a tree, I proceeded to brew - some coffee. Having refreshed myself, taking observations of the - elephant's spasms and writhings between the sips, I resolved to make - experiments on vulnerable points, and, approaching very near, I fired - several bullets at different parts of his enormous skull. He only - acknowledged the shots by a salaam-like movement of his trunk, with the - point of which he gently touched the wounds with a striking and peculiar - action. Surprised and shocked to find that I was only prolonging the - suffering of the noble beast, which bore its trials with such dignified - composure, I resolved to finish the proceeding with all possible despatch, - and accordingly opened fire upon him from the left side. Aiming at the - shoulder, I fired six shots with the two-grooved rifle, which must have - eventually proved mortal, after which I fired six shots at the same part - with the Dutch six-founder. Large tears now trickled down from his eyes, - which he slowly shut and opened, his colossal frame shivered convulsively, - and falling on his side he expired."—Gordon Cumming.] - </p> - <p> - So many many times this Official Report leaves one's curiosity - unsatisfied. For instance, here is a little paragraph out of the record of - a certain band of 193 Thugs, which has that defect: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Fell in with Lall Sing Subahdar and his family, consisting of nine - persons. Traveled with them two days, and the third put them all to - death except the two children, little boys of one and a half years old." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There it stops. What did they do with those poor little fellows? What was - their subsequent history? Did they purpose training them up as Thugs? How - could they take care of such little creatures on a march which stretched - over several months? No one seems to have cared to ask any questions about - the babies. But I do wish I knew. - </p> - <p> - One would be apt to imagine that the Thugs were utterly callous, utterly - destitute of human feelings, heartless toward their own families as well - as toward other people's; but this was not so. Like all other Indians, - they had a passionate love for their kin. A shrewd British officer who - knew the Indian character, took that characteristic into account in laying - his plans for the capture of Eugene Sue's famous Feringhea. He found out - Feringhea's hiding-place, and sent a guard by night to seize him, but the - squad was awkward and he got away. However, they got the rest of the - family—the mother, wife, child, and brother—and brought them - to the officer, at Jubbulpore; the officer did not fret, but bided his - time: "I knew Feringhea would not go far while links so dear to him were - in my hands." He was right. Feringhea knew all the danger he was running - by staying in the neighborhood, still he could not tear himself away. The - officer found that he divided his time between five villages where be had - relatives and friends who could get news for him from his family in - Jubbulpore jail; and that he never slept two consecutive nights in the - same village. The officer traced out his several haunts, then pounced upon - all the five villages on the one night and at the same hour, and got his - man. - </p> - <p> - Another example of family affection. A little while previously to the - capture of Feringhea's family, the British officer had captured - Feringhea's foster-brother, leader of a gang of ten, and had tried the - eleven and condemned them to be hanged. Feringhea's captured family - arrived at the jail the day before the execution was to take place. The - foster-brother, Jhurhoo, entreated to be allowed to see the aged mother - and the others. The prayer was granted, and this is what took place—it - is the British officer who speaks: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "In the morning, just before going to the scaffold, the interview took - place before me. He fell at the old woman's feet and begged that she - would relieve him from the obligations of the milk with which she had - nourished him from infancy, as he was about to die before he could - fulfill any of them. She placed her hands on his head, and he knelt, and - she said she forgave him all, and bid him die like a man." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - If a capable artist should make a picture of it, it would be full of - dignity and solemnity and pathos; and it could touch you. You would - imagine it to be anything but what it was. There is reverence there, and - tenderness, and gratefulness, and compassion, and resignation, and - fortitude, and self-respect—and no sense of disgrace, no thought of - dishonor. Everything is there that goes to make a noble parting, and give - it a moving grace and beauty and dignity. And yet one of these people is a - Thug and the other a mother of Thugs! The incongruities of our human - nature seem to reach their limit here. - </p> - <p> - I wish to make note of one curious thing while I think of it. One of the - very commonest remarks to be found in this bewildering array of Thug - confessions is this: - </p> - <p> - "Strangled him and threw him in a well!" In one case they threw sixteen - into a well—and they had thrown others in the same well before. It - makes a body thirsty to read about it. - </p> - <p> - And there is another very curious thing. The bands of Thugs had private - graveyards. They did not like to kill and bury at random, here and there - and everywhere. They preferred to wait, and toll the victims along, and - get to one of their regular burying-places ('bheels') if they could. In - the little kingdom of Oude, which was about half as big as Ireland and - about as big as the State of Maine, they had two hundred and seventy-four - 'bheels'. They were scattered along fourteen hundred miles of road, at an - average of only five miles apart, and the British government traced out - and located each and every one of them and set them down on the map. - </p> - <p> - The Oude bands seldom went out of their own country, but they did a - thriving business within its borders. So did outside bands who came in and - helped. Some of the Thug leaders of Oude were noted for their successful - careers. Each of four of them confessed to above 300 murders; another to - nearly 400; our friend Ramzam to 604—he is the one who got leave of - absence to attend a wedding and went thugging instead; and he is also the - one who betrayed Buhram to the British. - </p> - <p> - But the biggest records of all were the murder-lists of Futty Khan and - Buhram. Futty Khan's number is smaller than Ramzam's, but he is placed at - the head because his average is the best in Oude-Thug history per year of - service. His slaughter was 508 men in twenty years, and he was still a - young man when the British stopped his industry. Buhram's list was 931 - murders, but it took him forty years. His average was one man and nearly - all of another man per month for forty years, but Futty Khan's average was - two men and a little of another man per month during his twenty years of - usefulness. - </p> - <p> - There is one very striking thing which I wish to call attention to. You - have surmised from the listed callings followed by the victims of the - Thugs that nobody could travel the Indian roads unprotected and live to - get through; that the Thugs respected no quality, no vocation, no - religion, nobody; that they killed every unarmed man that came in their - way. That is wholly true—with one reservation. In all the long file - of Thug confessions an English traveler is mentioned but once—and - this is what the Thug says of the circumstance: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "He was on his way from Mhow to Bombay. We studiously avoided him. He - proceeded next morning with a number of travelers who had sought his - protection, and they took the road to Baroda." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - We do not know who he was; he flits across the page of this rusty old book - and disappears in the obscurity beyond; but he is an impressive figure, - moving through that valley of death serene and unafraid, clothed in the - might of the English name. - </p> - <p> - We have now followed the big official book through, and we understand what - Thuggee was, what a bloody terror it was, what a desolating scourge it - was. In 1830 the English found this cancerous organization imbedded in the - vitals of the empire, doing its devastating work in secrecy, and assisted, - protected, sheltered, and hidden by innumerable confederates—big and - little native chiefs, customs officers, village officials, and native - police, all ready to lie for it, and the mass of the people, through fear, - persistently pretending to know nothing about its doings; and this - condition of things had existed for generations, and was formidable with - the sanctions of age and old custom. If ever there was an unpromising - task, if ever there was a hopeless task in the world, surely it was - offered here—the task of conquering Thuggee. But that little handful - of English officials in India set their sturdy and confident grip upon it, - and ripped it out, root and branch! How modest do Captain Vallancey's - words sound now, when we read them again, knowing what we know: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The day that sees this far-spread evil completely eradicated from - India, and known only in name, will greatly tend to immortalize British - rule in the East." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It would be hard to word a claim more modestly than that for this most - noble work.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch48" id="ch48"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Grief can take care of itself; but to get the full value of a joy you - must have somebody to divide it with.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We left Bombay for Allahabad by a night train. It is the custom of the - country to avoid day travel when it can conveniently be done. But there is - one trouble: while you can seemingly "secure" the two lower berths by - making early application, there is no ticket as witness of it, and no - other producible evidence in case your proprietorship shall chance to be - challenged. The word "engaged" appears on the window, but it doesn't state - who the compartment is engaged, for. If your Satan and your Barney arrive - before somebody else's servants, and spread the bedding on the two sofas - and then stand guard till you come, all will be well; but if they step - aside on an errand, they may find the beds promoted to the two shelves, - and somebody else's demons standing guard over their master's beds, which - in the meantime have been spread upon your sofas. - </p> - <p> - You do not pay anything extra for your sleeping place; that is where the - trouble lies. If you buy a fare-ticket and fail to use it, there is room - thus made available for someone else; but if the place were secured to you - it would remain vacant, and yet your ticket would secure you another place - when you were presently ready to travel. - </p> - <p> - However, no explanation of such a system can make it seem quite rational - to a person who has been used to a more rational system. If our people had - the arranging of it, we should charge extra for securing the place, and - then the road would suffer no loss if the purchaser did not occupy it. - </p> - <p> - The present system encourages good manners—and also discourages - them. If a young girl has a lower berth and an elderly lady comes in, it - is usual for the girl to offer her place to this late comer; and it is - usual for the late comer to thank her courteously and take it. But the - thing happens differently sometimes. When we were ready to leave Bombay my - daughter's satchels were holding possession of her berth—a lower - one. At the last moment, a middle-aged American lady swarmed into the - compartment, followed by native porters laden with her baggage. She was - growling and snarling and scolding, and trying to make herself - phenomenally disagreeable; and succeeding. Without a word, she hoisted the - satchels into the hanging shelf, and took possession of that lower berth. - </p> - <p> - On one of our trips Mr. Smythe and I got out at a station to walk up and - down, and when we came back Smythe's bed was in the hanging shelf and an - English cavalry officer was in bed on the sofa which he had lately been - occupying. It was mean to be glad about it, but it is the way we are made; - I could not have been gladder if it had been my enemy that had suffered - this misfortune. We all like to see people in trouble, if it doesn't cost - us anything. I was so happy over Mr. Smythe's chagrin that I couldn't go - to sleep for thinking of it and enjoying it. I knew he supposed the - officer had committed the robbery himself, whereas without a doubt the - officer's servant had done it without his knowledge. Mr. Smythe kept this - incident warm in his heart, and longed for a chance to get even with - somebody for it. Sometime afterward the opportunity came, in Calcutta. We - were leaving on a 24-hour journey to Darjeeling. Mr. Barclay, the general - superintendent, has made special provision for our accommodation, Mr. - Smythe said; so there was no need to hurry about getting to the train; - consequently, we were a little late. - </p> - <p> - When we arrived, the usual immense turmoil and confusion of a great Indian - station were in full blast. It was an immoderately long train, for all the - natives of India were going by it somewhither, and the native officials - were being pestered to frenzy by belated and anxious people. They didn't - know where our car was, and couldn't remember having received any orders - about it. It was a deep disappointment; moreover, it looked as if our half - of our party would be left behind altogether. Then Satan came running and - said he had found a compartment with one shelf and one sofa unoccupied, - and had made our beds and had stowed our baggage. We rushed to the place, - and just as the train was ready to pull out and the porters were slamming - the doors to, all down the line, an officer of the Indian Civil Service, a - good friend of ours, put his head in and said:— - </p> - <p> - "I have been hunting for you everywhere. What are you doing here? Don't - you know——" - </p> - <p> - The train started before he could finish. Mr. Smythe's opportunity was - come. His bedding, on the shelf, at once changed places with the bedding—a - stranger's—that was occupying the sofa that was opposite to mine. - About ten o'clock we stopped somewhere, and a large Englishman of official - military bearing stepped in. We pretended to be asleep. The lamps were - covered, but there was light enough for us to note his look of surprise. - He stood there, grand and fine, peering down at Smythe, and wondering in - silence at the situation. After a bit he said:— - </p> - <p> - "Well!" And that was all. - </p> - <p> - But that was enough. It was easy to understand. It meant: "This is - extraordinary. This is high-handed. I haven't had an experience like this - before." - </p> - <p> - He sat down on his baggage, and for twenty minutes we watched him through - our eyelashes, rocking and swaying there to the motion of the train. Then - we came to a station, and he got up and went out, muttering: "I must find - a lower berth, or wait over." His servant came presently and carried away - his things.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p450.jpg (41K)" src="images/p450.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Mr. Smythe's sore place was healed, his hunger for revenge was satisfied. - But he couldn't sleep, and neither could I; for this was a venerable old - car, and nothing about it was taut. The closet door slammed all night, and - defied every fastening we could invent. We got up very much jaded, at - dawn, and stepped out at a way station; and, while we were taking a cup of - coffee, that Englishman ranged up alongside, and somebody said to him: - </p> - <p> - "So you didn't stop off, after all?" - </p> - <p> - "No. The guard found a place for me that had been engaged and not - occupied. I had a whole saloon car all to myself—oh, quite palatial! - I never had such luck in my life." - </p> - <p> - That was our car, you see. We moved into it, straight off, the family and - all. But I asked the English gentleman to remain, and he did. A pleasant - man, an infantry colonel; and doesn't know, yet, that Smythe robbed him of - his berth, but thinks it was done by Smythe's servant without Smythe's - knowledge. He was assisted in gathering this impression. - </p> - <p> - The Indian trains are manned by natives exclusively. The Indian stations - except very large and important ones—are manned entirely by natives, - and so are the posts and telegraphs. The rank and file of the police are - natives. All these people are pleasant and accommodating. One day I left - an express train to lounge about in that perennially ravishing show, the - ebb and flow and whirl of gaudy natives, that is always surging up and - down the spacious platform of a great Indian station; and I lost myself in - the ecstasy of it, and when I turned, the train was moving swiftly away. I - was going to sit down and wait for another train, as I would have done at - home; I had no thought of any other course. But a native official, who had - a green flag in his hand, saw me, and said politely: - </p> - <p> - "Don't you belong in the train, sir?" - </p> - <p> - "Yes." I said. - </p> - <p> - He waved his flag, and the train came back! And he put me aboard with as - much ceremony as if I had been the General Superintendent. They are kindly - people, the natives. The face and the bearing that indicate a surly spirit - and a bad heart seemed to me to be so rare among Indians—so nearly - non-existent, in fact—that I sometimes wondered if Thuggee wasn't a - dream, and not a reality. The bad hearts are there, but I believe that - they are in a small, poor minority. One thing is sure: They are much the - most interesting people in the world—and the nearest to being - incomprehensible. At any rate, the hardest to account for. Their character - and their history, their customs and their religion, confront you with - riddles at every turn-riddles which are a trifle more perplexing after - they are explained than they were before. You can get the facts of a - custom—like caste, and Suttee, and Thuggee, and so on—and with - the facts a theory which tries to explain, but never quite does it to your - satisfaction. You can never quite understand how so strange a thing could - have been born, nor why. - </p> - <p> - For instance—the Suttee. This is the explanation of it: - </p> - <p> - A woman who throws away her life when her husband dies is instantly joined - to him again, and is forever afterward happy with him in heaven; her - family will build a little monument to her, or a temple, and will hold her - in honor, and, indeed, worship her memory always; they will themselves be - held in honor by the public; the woman's self-sacrifice has conferred a - noble and lasting distinction upon her posterity. And, besides, see what - she has escaped: If she had elected to live, she would be a disgraced - person; she could not remarry; her family would despise her and disown - her; she would be a friendless outcast, and miserable all her days. - </p> - <p> - Very well, you say, but the explanation is not complete yet. How did - people come to drift into such a strange custom? What was the origin of - the idea? "Well, nobody knows; it was probably a revelation sent down by - the gods." One more thing: Why was such a cruel death chosen—why - wouldn't a gentle one have answered? "Nobody knows; maybe that was a - revelation, too." - </p> - <p> - No—you can never understand it. It all seems impossible. You resolve - to believe that a widow never burnt herself willingly, but went to her - death because she was afraid to defy public opinion. But you are not able - to keep that position. History drives you from it. Major Sleeman has a - convincing case in one of his books. In his government on the Nerbudda he - made a brave attempt on the 28th of March, 1828, to put down Suttee on his - own hook and without warrant from the Supreme Government of India. He - could not foresee that the Government would put it down itself eight - months later. The only backing he had was a bold nature and a - compassionate heart. He issued his proclamation abolishing the Suttee in - his district. On the morning of Tuesday—note the day of the week—the - 24th of the following November, Ummed Singh Upadhya, head of the most - respectable and most extensive Brahmin family in the district, died, and - presently came a deputation of his sons and grandsons to beg that his old - widow might be allowed to burn herself upon his pyre. Sleeman threatened - to enforce his order, and punish severely any man who assisted; and he - placed a police guard to see that no one did so. From the early morning - the old widow of sixty-five had been sitting on the bank of the sacred - river by her dead, waiting through the long hours for the permission; and - at last the refusal came instead. In one little sentence Sleeman gives you - a pathetic picture of this lonely old gray figure: all day and all night - "she remained sitting by the edge of the water without eating or - drinking." The next morning the body of the husband was burned to ashes in - a pit eight feet square and three or four feet deep, in the view of - several thousand spectators. Then the widow waded out to a bare rock in - the river, and everybody went away but her sons and other relations. All - day she sat there on her rock in the blazing sun without food or drink, - and with no clothing but a sheet over her shoulders. - </p> - <p> - The relatives remained with her and all tried to persuade her to desist - from her purpose, for they deeply loved her. She steadily refused. Then a - part of the family went to Sleeman's house, ten miles away, and tried - again to get him to let her burn herself. He refused, hoping to save her - yet. - </p> - <p> - All that day she scorched in her sheet on the rock, and all that night she - kept her vigil there in the bitter cold. Thursday morning, in the sight of - her relatives, she went through a ceremonial which said more to them than - any words could have done; she put on the dhaja (a coarse red turban) and - broke her bracelets in pieces. By these acts she became a dead person in - the eye of the law, and excluded from her caste forever. By the iron rule - of ancient custom, if she should now choose to live she could never return - to her family. Sleeman was in deep trouble. If she starved herself to - death her family would be disgraced; and, moreover, starving would be a - more lingering misery than the death by fire. He went back in the evening - thoroughly worried. The old woman remained on her rock, and there in the - morning he found her with her dhaja still on her head. "She talked very - collectedly, telling me that she had determined to mix her ashes with - those of her departed husband, and should patiently wait my permission to - do so, assured that God would enable her to sustain life till that was - given, though she dared not eat or drink. Looking at the sun, then rising - before her over a long and beautiful reach of the river, she said calmly, - 'My soul has been for five days with my husband's near that sun; nothing - but my earthly frame is left; and this, I know, you will in time suffer to - be mixed with his ashes in yonder pit, because it is not in your nature or - usage wantonly to prolong the miseries of a poor old woman.'" - </p> - <p> - He assured her that it was his desire and duty to save her, and to urge - her to live, and to keep her family from the disgrace of being thought her - murderers. But she said she "was not afraid of their being thought so; - that they had all, like good children, done everything in their power to - induce her to live, and to abide with them; and if I should consent I know - they would love and honor me, but my duties to them have now ended. I - commit them all to your care, and I go to attend my husband, Ummed Singh - Upadhya, with whose ashes on the funeral pile mine have been already three - times mixed." - </p> - <p> - She believed that she and he had been upon the earth three several times - as wife and husband, and that she had burned herself to death three times - upon his pyre. That is why she said that strange thing. Since she had - broken her bracelets and put on the red turban she regarded herself as a - corpse; otherwise she would not have allowed herself to do her husband the - irreverence of pronouncing his name. "This was the first time in her long - life that she had ever uttered her husband's name, for in India no woman, - high or low, ever pronounces the name of her husband." - </p> - <p> - Major Sleeman still tried to shake her purpose. He promised to build her a - fine house among the temples of her ancestors upon the bank of the river - and make handsome provision for her out of rent-free lands if she would - consent to live; and if she wouldn't he would allow no stone or brick to - ever mark the place where she died. But she only smiled and said, "My - pulse has long ceased to beat, my spirit has departed; I shall suffer - nothing in the burning; and if you wish proof, order some fire and you - shall see this arm consumed without giving me any pain." - </p> - <p> - Sleeman was now satisfied that he could not alter her purpose. He sent for - all the chief members of the family and said he would suffer her to burn - herself if they would enter into a written engagement to abandon the - suttee in their family thenceforth. They agreed; the papers were drawn out - and signed, and at noon, Saturday, word was sent to the poor old woman. - She seemed greatly pleased. The ceremonies of bathing were gone through - with, and by three o'clock she was ready and the fire was briskly burning - in the pit. She had now gone without food or drink during more than four - days and a half. She came ashore from her rock, first wetting her sheet in - the waters of the sacred river, for without that safeguard any shadow - which might fall upon her would convey impurity to her; then she walked to - the pit, leaning upon one of her sons and a nephew—the distance was - a hundred and fifty yards. - </p> - <p> - "I had sentries placed all around, and no other person was allowed to - approach within five paces. She came on with a calm and cheerful - countenance, stopped once, and casting her eyes upwards, said, 'Why have - they kept me five days from thee, my husband?' On coming to the sentries - her supporters stopped and remained standing; she moved on, and walked - once around the pit, paused a moment, and while muttering a prayer, threw - some flowers into the fire. She then walked up deliberately and steadily - to the brink, stepped into the centre of the flame, sat down, and leaning - back in the midst as if reposing upon a couch, was consumed without - uttering a shriek or betraying one sign of agony." - </p> - <p> - It is fine and beautiful. It compels one's reverence and respect—no, - has it freely, and without compulsion. We see how the custom, once - started, could continue, for the soul of it is that stupendous power, - Faith; faith brought to the pitch of effectiveness by the cumulative force - of example and long use and custom; but we cannot understand how the first - widows came to take to it. That is a perplexing detail. - </p> - <p> - Sleeman says that it was usual to play music at the suttee, but that the - white man's notion that this was to drown the screams of the martyr is not - correct; that it had a quite different purpose. It was believed that the - martyr died prophecying; that the prophecies sometimes foretold disaster, - and it was considered a kindness to those upon whom it was to fall to - drown the voice and keep them in ignorance of the misfortune that was to - come.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch49" id="ch49"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER XLIX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>He had had much experience of physicians, and said "the only way to - keep your health is to eat what you don't want, drink what you don't like, - and do what you'd druther not."</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - It was a long journey—two nights, one day, and part of another day, - from Bombay eastward to Allahabad; but it was always interesting, and it - was not fatiguing. At first the night travel promised to be fatiguing, but - that was on account of pyjamas. This foolish night-dress consists of - jacket and drawers. Sometimes they are made of silk, sometimes of a raspy, - scratchy, slazy woolen material with a sandpaper surface. The drawers are - loose elephant-legged and elephant-waisted things, and instead of - buttoning around the body there is a drawstring to produce the required - shrinkage. The jacket is roomy, and one buttons it in front. Pyjamas are - hot on a hot night and cold on a cold night—defects which a - nightshirt is free from. I tried the pyjamas in order to be in the - fashion; but I was obliged to give them up, I couldn't stand them. There - was no sufficient change from day-gear to night-gear. I missed the - refreshing and luxurious sense, induced by the night-gown, of being - undressed, emancipated, set free from restraints and trammels. In place of - that, I had the worried, confined, oppressed, suffocated sense of being - abed with my clothes on. All through the warm half of the night the coarse - surfaces irritated my skin and made it feel baked and feverish, and the - dreams which came in the fitful flurries of slumber were such as distress - the sleep of the damned, or ought to; and all through the cold other half - of the night I could get no time for sleep because I had to employ it all - in stealing blankets. But blankets are of no value at such a time; the - higher they are piled the more effectively they cork the cold in and keep - it from getting out. The result is that your legs are ice, and you know - how you will feel by and by when you are buried. In a sane interval I - discarded the pyjamas, and led a rational and comfortable life - thenceforth.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p458.jpg (40K)" src="images/p458.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Out in the country in India, the day begins early. One sees a plain, - perfectly flat, dust-colored and brick-yardy, stretching limitlessly away - on every side in the dim gray light, striped everywhere with hard-beaten - narrow paths, the vast flatness broken at wide intervals by bunches of - spectral trees that mark where villages are; and along all the paths are - slender women and the black forms of lanky naked men moving, to their - work, the women with brass water-jars on their heads, the men carrying - hoes. The man is not entirely naked; always there is a bit of white rag, a - loin-cloth; it amounts to a bandage, and is a white accent on his black - person, like the silver band around the middle of a pipe-stem. Sometimes - he also wears a fluffy and voluminous white turban, and this adds a second - accent. He then answers properly to Miss Gordon Cumming's flash-light - picture of him—as a person who is dressed in "a turban and a pocket - handkerchief." - </p> - <p> - All day long one has this monotony of dust-colored dead levels and - scattering bunches of trees and mud villages. You soon realize that India - is not beautiful; still there is an enchantment about it that is - beguiling, and which does not pall. You cannot tell just what it is that - makes the spell, perhaps, but you feel it and confess it, nevertheless. Of - course, at bottom, you know in a vague way that it is history; it is that - that affects you, a haunting sense of the myriads of human lives that have - blossomed, and withered, and perished here, repeating and repeating and - repeating, century after century, and age after age, the barren and - meaningless process; it is this sense that gives to this forlorn, uncomely - land power to speak to the spirit and make friends with it; to speak to it - with a voice bitter with satire, but eloquent with melancholy. The deserts - of Australia and the ice-barrens of Greenland have no speech, for they - have no venerable history; with nothing to tell of man and his vanities, - his fleeting glories and his miseries, they have nothing wherewith to - spiritualize their ugliness and veil it with a charm. - </p> - <p> - There is nothing pretty about an Indian village—a mud one—and - I do not remember that we saw any but mud ones on that long flight to - Allahabad. It is a little bunch of dirt-colored mud hovels jammed together - within a mud wall. As a rule, the rains had beaten down parts of some of - the houses, and this gave the village the aspect of a mouldering and hoary - ruin. I believe the cattle and the vermin live inside the wall; for I saw - cattle coming out and cattle going in; and whenever I saw a villager, he - was scratching. This last is only circumstantial evidence, but I think it - has value. The village has a battered little temple or two, big enough to - hold an idol, and with custom enough to fat-up a priest and keep him - comfortable. Where there are Mohammedans there are generally a few sorry - tombs outside the village that have a decayed and neglected look. The - villages interested me because of things which Major Sleeman says about - them in his books—particularly what he says about the division of - labor in them. He says that the whole face of India is parceled out into - estates of villages; that nine-tenths of the vast population of the land - consist of cultivators of the soil; that it is these cultivators who - inhabit the villages; that there are certain "established" village - servants—mechanics and others who are apparently paid a wage by the - village at large, and whose callings remain in certain families and are - handed down from father to son, like an estate. He gives a list of these - established servants: Priest, blacksmith, carpenter, accountant, - washerman, basketmaker, potter, watchman, barber, shoemaker, brazier, - confectioner, weaver, dyer, etc. In his day witches abounded, and it was - not thought good business wisdom for a man to marry his daughter into a - family that hadn't a witch in it, for she would need a witch on the - premises to protect her children from the evil spells which would - certainly be cast upon them by the witches connected with the neighboring - families. - </p> - <p> - The office of midwife was hereditary in the family of the basket-maker. It - belonged to his wife. She might not be competent, but the office was hers, - anyway. Her pay was not high—25 cents for a boy, and half as much - for a girl. The girl was not desired, because she would be a disastrous - expense by and by. As soon as she should be old enough to begin to wear - clothes for propriety's sake, it would be a disgrace to the family if she - were not married; and to marry her meant financial ruin; for by custom the - father must spend upon feasting and wedding-display everything he had and - all he could borrow—in fact, reduce himself to a condition of - poverty which he might never more recover from. - </p> - <p> - It was the dread of this prospective ruin which made the killing of - girl-babies so prevalent in India in the old days before England laid the - iron hand of her prohibitions upon the piteous slaughter. One may judge of - how prevalent the custom was, by one of Sleeman's casual electrical - remarks, when he speaks of children at play in villages—<i>where - girl-voices were never heard!</i> - </p> - <p> - The wedding-display folly is still in full force in India, and by - consequence the destruction of girl-babies is still furtively practiced; - but not largely, because of the vigilance of the government and the - sternness of the penalties it levies. - </p> - <p> - In some parts of India the village keeps in its pay three other servants: - an astrologer to tell the villager when he may plant his crop, or make a - journey, or marry a wife, or strangle a child, or borrow a dog, or climb a - tree, or catch a rat, or swindle a neighbor, without offending the alert - and solicitous heavens; and what his dream means, if he has had one and - was not bright enough to interpret it himself by the details of his - dinner; the two other established servants were the tiger-persuader and - the hailstorm discourager. The one kept away the tigers if he could, and - collected the wages anyway, and the other kept off the hailstorms, or - explained why he failed. He charged the same for explaining a failure that - he did for scoring a success. A man is an idiot who can't earn a living in - India. - </p> - <p> - Major Sleeman reveals the fact that the trade union and the boycott are - antiquities in India. India seems to have originated everything. The - "sweeper" belongs to the bottom caste; he is the lowest of the low—all - other castes despise him and scorn his office. But that does not trouble - him. His caste is a caste, and that is sufficient for him, and so he is - proud of it, not ashamed. Sleeman says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "It is perhaps not known to many of my countrymen, even in India, that - in every town and city in the country the right of sweeping the houses - and streets is a monopoly, and is supported entirely by the pride of - castes among the scavengers, who are all of the lowest class. The right - of sweeping within a certain range is recognized by the caste to belong - to a certain member; and if any other member presumes to sweep within - that range, he is excommunicated—no other member will smoke out of - his pipe or drink out of his jug; and he can get restored to caste only - by a feast to the whole body of sweepers. If any housekeeper within a - particular circle happens to offend the sweeper of that range, none of - his filth will be removed till he pacifies him, because no other sweeper - will dare to touch it; and the people of a town are often more - tyrannized over by these people than by any other." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p463.jpg (10K)" src="images/p463.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - A footnote by Major Sleeman's editor, Mr. Vincent Arthur Smith, says that - in our day this tyranny of the sweepers' guild is one of the many - difficulties which bar the progress of Indian sanitary reform. Think of - this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The sweepers cannot be readily coerced, because no Hindoo or Mussulman - would do their work to save his life, nor will he pollute himself by - beating the refractory scavenger." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - They certainly do seem to have the whip-hand; it would be difficult to - imagine a more impregnable position. "The vested rights described in the - text are so fully recognized in practice that they are frequently the - subject of sale or mortgage." - </p> - <p> - Just like a milk-route; or like a London crossing-sweepership. It is said - that the London crossing-sweeper's right to his crossing is recognized by - the rest of the guild; that they protect him in its possession; that - certain choice crossings are valuable property, and are saleable at high - figures. I have noticed that the man who sweeps in front of the Army and - Navy Stores has a wealthy South African aristocratic style about him; and - when he is off his guard, he has exactly that look on his face which you - always see in the face of a man who is saving up his daughter to marry her - to a duke.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p464.jpg (5K)" src="images/p464.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It appears from Sleeman that in India the occupation of elephant-driver is - confined to Mohammedans. I wonder why that is. The water-carrier - ('bheestie') is a Mohammedan, but it is said that the reason of that is, - that the Hindoo's religion does not allow him to touch the skin of dead - kine, and that is what the water-sack is made of; it would defile him. And - it doesn't allow him to eat meat; the animal that furnished the meat was - murdered, and to take any creature's life is a sin. It is a good and - gentle religion, but inconvenient. - </p> - <p> - A great Indian river, at low water, suggests the familiar anatomical - picture of a skinned human body, the intricate mesh of interwoven muscles - and tendons to stand for water-channels, and the archipelagoes of fat and - flesh inclosed by them to stand for the sandbars. Somewhere on this - journey we passed such a river, and on a later journey we saw in the - Sutlej the duplicate of that river. Curious rivers they are; low shores a - dizzy distance apart, with nothing between but an enormous acreage of - sand-flats with sluggish little veins of water dribbling around amongst - them; Saharas of sand, smallpox-pitted with footprints punctured in belts - as straight as the equator clear from the one shore to the other (barring - the channel-interruptions)—a dry-shod ferry, you see. Long railway - bridges are required for this sort of rivers, and India has them. You - approach Allahabad by a very long one. It was now carrying us across the - bed of the Jumna, a bed which did not seem to have been slept in for one - while or more. It wasn't all river-bed—most of it was overflow - ground. - </p> - <p> - Allahabad means "City of God." I get this from the books. From a printed - curiosity—a letter written by one of those brave and confident - Hindoo strugglers with the English tongue, called a "babu"—I got a - more compressed translation: "Godville." It is perfectly correct, but that - is the most that can be said for it. - </p> - <p> - We arrived in the forenoon, and short-handed; for Satan got left behind - somewhere that morning, and did not overtake us until after nightfall. It - seemed very peaceful without him. The world seemed asleep and dreaming. - </p> - <p> - I did not see the native town, I think. I do not remember why; for an - incident connects it with the Great Mutiny, and that is enough to make any - place interesting. But I saw the English part of the city. It is a town of - wide avenues and noble distances, and is comely and alluring, and full of - suggestions of comfort and leisure, and of the serenity which a good - conscience buttressed by a sufficient bank account gives. The bungalows - (dwellings) stand well back in the seclusion and privacy of large enclosed - compounds (private grounds, as we should say) and in the shade and shelter - of trees. Even the photographer and the prosperous merchant ply their - industries in the elegant reserve of big compounds, and the citizens drive - in there upon their business occasions. And not in cabs—no; in the - Indian cities cabs are for the drifting stranger; all the white citizens - have private carriages; and each carriage has a flock of white-turbaned - black footmen and drivers all over it. The vicinity of a lecture-hall - looks like a snowstorm,—and makes the lecturer feel like an opera. - India has many names, and they are correctly descriptive. It is the Land - of Contradictions, the Land of Subtlety and Superstition, the Land of - Wealth and Poverty, the Land of Splendor and Desolation, the Land of - Plague and Famine, the Land of the Thug and the Poisoner, and of the Meek - and the Patient, the Land of the Suttee, the Land of the Unreinstatable - Widow, the Land where All Life is Holy, the Land of Cremation, the Land - where the Vulture is a Grave and a Monument, the Land of the Multitudinous - Gods; and if signs go for anything, it is the Land of the Private - Carriage. - </p> - <p> - In Bombay the forewoman of a millinery shop came to the hotel in her - private carriage to take the measure for a gown—not for me, but for - another. She had come out to India to make a temporary stay, but was - extending it indefinitely; indeed, she was purposing to end her days - there. In London, she said, her work had been hard, her hours long; for - economy's sake she had had to live in shabby rooms and far away from the - shop, watch the pennies, deny herself many of the common comforts of life, - restrict herself in effect to its bare necessities, eschew cabs, travel - third-class by underground train to and from her work, swallowing - coal-smoke and cinders all the way, and sometimes troubled with the - society of men and women who were less desirable than the smoke and the - cinders. But in Bombay, on almost any kind of wages, she could live in - comfort, and keep her carriage, and have six servants in place of the - woman-of-all-work she had had in her English home. Later, in Calcutta, I - found that the Standard Oil clerks had small one-horse vehicles, and did - no walking; and I was told that the clerks of the other large concerns - there had the like equipment. But to return to Allahabad. - </p> - <p> - I was up at dawn, the next morning. In India the tourist's servant does - not sleep in a room in the hotel, but rolls himself up head and ears in - his blanket and stretches himself on the veranda, across the front of his - master's door, and spends the night there. I don't believe anybody's - servant occupies a room. Apparently, the bungalow servants sleep on the - veranda; it is roomy, and goes all around the house. I speak of - menservants; I saw none of the other sex. I think there are none, except - child-nurses. I was up at dawn, and walked around the veranda, past the - rows of sleepers. In front of one door a Hindoo servant was squatting, - waiting for his master to call him. He had polished the yellow shoes and - placed them by the door, and now he had nothing to do but wait. It was - freezing cold, but there he was, as motionless as a sculptured image, and - as patient. It troubled me. I wanted to say to him, "Don't crouch there - like that and freeze; nobody requires it of you; stir around and get - warm." But I hadn't the words.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p468.jpg (33K)" src="images/p468.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I thought of saying 'jeldy jow', but I couldn't remember what it meant, so - I didn't say it. I knew another phrase, but it wouldn't come to my mind. I - moved on, purposing to dismiss him from my thoughts, but his bare legs and - bare feet kept him there. They kept drawing me back from the sunny side to - a point whence I could see him. At the end of an hour he had not changed - his attitude in the least degree. It was a curious and impressive - exhibition of meekness and patience, or fortitude or indifference, I did - not know which. But it worried me, and it was spoiling my morning. In - fact, it spoiled two hours of it quite thoroughly. I quitted this - vicinity, then, and left him to punish himself as much as he might want - to. But up to that time the man had not changed his attitude a hair. He - will always remain with me, I suppose; his figure never grows vague in my - memory. Whenever I read of Indian resignation, Indian patience under - wrongs, hardships, and misfortunes, he comes before me. He becomes a - personification, and stands for India in trouble. And for untold ages - India in trouble has been pursued with the very remark which I was going - to utter but didn't, because its meaning had slipped me: "Jeldy jow!" - ("Come, shove along!") - </p> - <p> - Why, it was the very thing. - </p> - <p> - In the early brightness we made a long drive out to the Fort. Part of the - way was beautiful. It led under stately trees and through groups of native - houses and by the usual village well, where the picturesque gangs are - always flocking to and fro and laughing and chattering; and this time - brawny men were deluging their bronze bodies with the limpid water, and - making a refreshing and enticing show of it; enticing, for the sun was - already transacting business, firing India up for the day. There was - plenty of this early bathing going on, for it was getting toward breakfast - time, and with an unpurified body the Hindoo must not eat.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p472.jpg (54K)" src="images/p472.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Then we struck into the hot plain, and found the roads crowded with - pilgrims of both sexes, for one of the great religious fairs of India was - being held, just beyond the Fort, at the junction of the sacred rivers, - the Ganges and the Jumna. Three sacred rivers, I should have said, for - there is a subterranean one. Nobody has seen it, but that doesn't signify. - The fact that it is there is enough. These pilgrims had come from all over - India; some of them had been months on the way, plodding patiently along - in the heat and dust, worn, poor, hungry, but supported and sustained by - an unwavering faith and belief; they were supremely happy and content, - now; their full and sufficient reward was at hand; they were going to be - cleansed from every vestige of sin and corruption by these holy waters - which make utterly pure whatsoever thing they touch, even the dead and - rotten. It is wonderful, the power of a faith like that, that can make - multitudes upon multitudes of the old and weak and the young and frail - enter without hesitation or complaint upon such incredible journeys and - endure the resultant miseries without repining. It is done in love, or it - is done in fear; I do not know which it is. No matter what the impulse is, - the act born of it is beyond imagination marvelous to our kind of people, - the cold whites. There are choice great natures among us that could - exhibit the equivalent of this prodigious self-sacrifice, but the rest of - us know that we should not be equal to anything approaching it. Still, we - all talk self-sacrifice, and this makes me hope that we are large enough - to honor it in the Hindoo. - </p> - <p> - Two millions of natives arrive at this fair every year. How many start, - and die on the road, from age and fatigue and disease and scanty - nourishment, and how many die on the return, from the same causes, no one - knows; but the tale is great, one may say enormous. Every twelfth year is - held to be a year of peculiar grace; a greatly augmented volume of - pilgrims results then. The twelfth year has held this distinction since - the remotest times, it is said. It is said also that there is to be but - one more twelfth year—for the Ganges. After that, that holiest of - all sacred rivers will cease to be holy, and will be abandoned by the - pilgrim for many centuries; how many, the wise men have not stated. At the - end of that interval it will become holy again. Meantime, the data will be - arranged by those people who have charge of all such matters, the great - chief Brahmins. It will be like shutting down a mint. At a first glance it - looks most unbrahminically uncommercial, but I am not disturbed, being - soothed and tranquilized by their reputation. "Brer fox he lay low," as - Uncle Remus says; and at the judicious time he will spring something on - the Indian public which will show that he was not financially asleep when - he took the Ganges out of the market. - </p> - <p> - Great numbers of the natives along the roads were bringing away holy water - from the rivers. They would carry it far and wide in India and sell it. - Tavernier, the French traveler (17th century), notes that Ganges water is - often given at weddings, "each guest receiving a cup or two, according to - the liberality of the host; sometimes 2,000 or 3,000 rupees' worth of it - is consumed at a wedding." - </p> - <p> - The Fort is a huge old structure, and has had a large experience in - religions. In its great court stands a monolith which was placed there - more than 2,000 years ago to preach (Budhism) by its pious inscription; - the Fort was built three centuries ago by a Mohammedan Emperor—a - resanctification of the place in the interest of that religion. There is a - Hindoo temple, too, with subterranean ramifications stocked with shrines - and idols; and now the Fort belongs to the English, it contains a - Christian Church. Insured in all the companies. - </p> - <p> - From the lofty ramparts one has a fine view of the sacred rivers. They - join at that point—the pale blue Jumna, apparently clean and clear, - and the muddy Ganges, dull yellow and not clean. On a long curved spit - between the rivers, towns of tents were visible, with a multitude of - fluttering pennons, and a mighty swarm of pilgrims. It was a troublesome - place to get down to, and not a quiet place when you arrived; but it was - interesting. There was a world of activity and turmoil and noise, partly - religious, partly commercial; for the Mohammedans were there to curse and - sell, and the Hindoos to buy and pray. It is a fair as well as a religious - festival. Crowds were bathing, praying, and drinking the purifying waters, - and many sick pilgrims had come long journeys in palanquins to be healed - of their maladies by a bath; or if that might not be, then to die on the - blessed banks and so make sure of heaven. There were fakeers in plenty, - with their bodies dusted over with ashes and their long hair caked - together with cow-dung; for the cow is holy and so is the rest of it; so - holy that the good Hindoo peasant frescoes the walls of his hut with this - refuse, and also constructs ornamental figures out of it for the gracing - of his dirt floor. There were seated families, fearfully and wonderfully - painted, who by attitude and grouping represented the families of certain - great gods. There was a holy man who sat naked by the day and by the week - on a cluster of iron spikes, and did not seem to mind it; and another holy - man, who stood all day holding his withered arms motionless aloft, and was - said to have been doing it for years. All of these performers have a cloth - on the ground beside them for the reception of contributions, and even the - poorest of the people give a trifle and hope that the sacrifice will be - blessed to him. At last came a procession of naked holy people marching by - and chanting, and I wrenched myself away.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p474.jpg (11K)" src="images/p474.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch50" id="ch50"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER L. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The man who is ostentatious of his modesty is twin to the statue that - wears a fig-leaf.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The journey to Benares was all in daylight, and occupied but a few hours. - It was admirably dusty. The dust settled upon you in a thick ashy layer - and turned you into a fakeer, with nothing lacking to the role but the cow - manure and the sense of holiness. There was a change of cars about - mid-afternoon at Moghul-serai—if that was the name—and a wait - of two hours there for the Benares train. We could have found a carriage - and driven to the sacred city, but we should have lost the wait. In other - countries a long wait at a station is a dull thing and tedious, but one - has no right to have that feeling in India. You have the monster crowd of - bejeweled natives, the stir, the bustle, the confusion, the shifting - splendors of the costumes—dear me, the delight of it, the charm of - it are beyond speech. The two-hour wait was over too soon. Among other - satisfying things to look at was a minor native prince from the backwoods - somewhere, with his guard of honor, a ragged but wonderfully gaudy gang of - fifty dark barbarians armed with rusty flint-lock muskets. The general - show came so near to exhausting variety that one would have said that no - addition to it could be conspicuous, but when this Falstaff and his - motleys marched through it one saw that that seeming impossibility had - happened. - </p> - <p> - We got away by and by, and soon reached the outer edge of Benares; then - there was another wait; but, as usual, with something to look at. This was - a cluster of little canvas-boxes—palanquins. A canvas-box is not - much of a sight—when empty; but when there is a lady in it, it is an - object of interest. These boxes were grouped apart, in the full blaze of - the terrible sun during the three-quarters of an hour that we tarried - there. They contained zenana ladies. They had to sit up; there was not - room enough to stretch out. They probably did not mind it. They are used - to the close captivity of their dwellings all their lives; when they go a - journey they are carried to the train in these boxes; in the train they - have to be secluded from inspection. Many people pity them, and I always - did it myself and never charged anything; but it is doubtful if this - compassion is valued. While we were in India some good-hearted Europeans - in one of the cities proposed to restrict a large park to the use of - zenana ladies, so that they could go there and in assured privacy go about - unveiled and enjoy the sunshine and air as they had never enjoyed them - before. The good intentions back of the proposition were recognized, and - sincere thanks returned for it, but the proposition itself met with a - prompt declination at the hands of those who were authorized to speak for - the zenana ladies. Apparently, the idea was shocking to the ladies—indeed, - it was quite manifestly shocking. Was that proposition the equivalent of - inviting European ladies to assemble scantily and scandalously clothed in - the seclusion of a private park? It seemed to be about that. - </p> - <p> - Without doubt modesty is nothing less than a holy feeling; and without - doubt the person whose rule of modesty has been transgressed feels the - same sort of wound that he would feel if something made holy to him by his - religion had suffered a desecration. I say "rule of modesty" because there - are about a million rules in the world, and this makes a million standards - to be looked out for. Major Sleeman mentions the case of some high-caste - veiled ladies who were profoundly scandalized when some English young - ladies passed by with faces bare to the world; so scandalized that they - spoke out with strong indignation and wondered that people could be so - shameless as to expose their persons like that. And yet "the legs of the - objectors were naked to mid-thigh." Both parties were clean-minded and - irreproachably modest, while abiding by their separate rules, but they - couldn't have traded rules for a change without suffering considerable - discomfort. All human rules are more or less idiotic, I suppose. It is - best so, no doubt. The way it is now, the asylums can hold the sane - people, but if we tried to shut up the insane we should run out of - building materials. - </p> - <p> - You have a long drive through the outskirts of Benares before you get to - the hotel. And all the aspects are melancholy. It is a vision of dusty - sterility, decaying temples, crumbling tombs, broken mud walls, shabby - huts. The whole region seems to ache with age and penury. It must take ten - thousand years of want to produce such an aspect. We were still outside of - the great native city when we reached the hotel. It was a quiet and - homelike house, inviting, and manifestly comfortable. But we liked its - annex better, and went thither. It was a mile away, perhaps, and stood in - the midst of a large compound, and was built bungalow fashion, everything - on the ground floor, and a veranda all around. They have doors in India, - but I don't know why. They don't fasten, and they stand open, as a rule, - with a curtain hanging in the doorspace to keep out the glare of the sun. - Still, there is plenty of privacy, for no white person will come in - without notice, of course. The native men servants will, but they don't - seem to count. They glide in, barefoot and noiseless, and are in the midst - before one knows it. At first this is a shock, and sometimes it is an - embarrassment; but one has to get used to it, and does. - </p> - <p> - There was one tree in the compound, and a monkey lived in it. At first I - was strongly interested in the tree, for I was told that it was the - renowned peepul—the tree in whose shadow you cannot tell a lie. This - one failed to stand the test, and I went away from it disappointed. There - was a softly creaking well close by, and a couple of oxen drew water from - it by the hour, superintended by two natives dressed in the usual "turban - and pocket-handkerchief." The tree and the well were the only scenery, and - so the compound was a soothing and lonesome and satisfying place; and very - restful after so many activities. There was nobody in our bungalow but - ourselves; the other guests were in the next one, where the table d'hote - was furnished. A body could not be more pleasantly situated. Each room had - the customary bath attached—a room ten or twelve feet square, with a - roomy stone-paved pit in it and abundance of water. One could not easily - improve upon this arrangement, except by furnishing it with cold water and - excluding the hot, in deference to the fervency of the climate; but that - is forbidden. It would damage the bather's health. The stranger is warned - against taking cold baths in India, but even the most intelligent - strangers are fools, and they do not obey, and so they presently get laid - up. I was the most intelligent fool that passed through, that year. But I - am still more intelligent now. Now that it is too late. - </p> - <p> - I wonder if the 'dorian', if that is the name of it, is another - superstition, like the peepul tree. There was a great abundance and - variety of tropical fruits, but the dorian was never in evidence. It was - never the season for the dorian. It was always going to arrive from Burma - sometime or other, but it never did. By all accounts it was a most strange - fruit, and incomparably delicious to the taste, but not to the smell. Its - rind was said to exude a stench of so atrocious a nature that when a - dorian was in the room even the presence of a polecat was a refreshment. - We found many who had eaten the dorian, and they all spoke of it with a - sort of rapture. They said that if you could hold your nose until the - fruit was in your mouth a sacred joy would suffuse you from head to foot - that would make you oblivious to the smell of the rind, but that if your - grip slipped and you caught the smell of the rind before the fruit was in - your mouth, you would faint. There is a fortune in that rind. Some day - somebody will import it into Europe and sell it for cheese.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p479.jpg (19K)" src="images/p479.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Benares was not a disappointment. It justified its reputation as a - curiosity. It is on high ground, and overhangs a grand curve of the - Ganges. It is a vast mass of building, compactly crusting a hill, and is - cloven in all directions by an intricate confusion of cracks which stand - for streets. Tall, slim minarets and beflagged temple-spires rise out of - it and give it picturesqueness, viewed from the river. The city is as busy - as an ant-hill, and the hurly-burly of human life swarming along the web - of narrow streets reminds one of the ants. The sacred cow swarms along, - too, and goes whither she pleases, and takes toll of the grain-shops, and - is very much in the way, and is a good deal of a nuisance, since she must - not be molested. - </p> - <p> - Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than - legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together. From a Hindoo - statement quoted in Rev. Mr. Parker's compact and lucid Guide to Benares, - I find that the site of the town was the beginning-place of the Creation. - It was merely an upright "lingam," at first, no larger than a stove-pipe, - and stood in the midst of a shoreless ocean. This was the work of the God - Vishnu. Later he spread the lingam out till its surface was ten miles - across. Still it was not large enough for the business; therefore he - presently built the globe around it. Benares is thus the center of the - earth. This is considered an advantage. - </p> - <p> - It has had a tumultuous history, both materially and spiritually. It - started Brahminically, many ages ago; then by and by Buddha came in recent - times 2,500 years ago, and after that it was Buddhist during many - centuries—twelve, perhaps—but the Brahmins got the upper hand - again, then, and have held it ever since. It is unspeakably sacred in - Hindoo eyes, and is as unsanitary as it is sacred, and smells like the - rind of the dorian. It is the headquarters of the Brahmin faith, and - one-eighth of the population are priests of that church. But it is not an - overstock, for they have all India as a prey. All India flocks thither on - pilgrimage, and pours its savings into the pockets of the priests in a - generous stream, which never fails. A priest with a good stand on the - shore of the Ganges is much better off than the sweeper of the best - crossing in London. A good stand is worth a world of money. The holy - proprietor of it sits under his grand spectacular umbrella and blesses - people all his life, and collects his commission, and grows fat and rich; - and the stand passes from father to son, down and down and down through - the ages, and remains a permanent and lucrative estate in the family. As - Mr. Parker suggests, it can become a subject of dispute, at one time or - another, and then the matter will be settled, not by prayer and fasting - and consultations with Vishnu, but by the intervention of a much more - puissant power—an English court. In Bombay I was told by an American - missionary that in India there are 640 Protestant missionaries at work. At - first it seemed an immense force, but of course that was a thoughtless - idea. One missionary to 500,000 natives—no, that is not a force; it - is the reverse of it; 640 marching against an intrenched camp of - 300,000,000—the odds are too great. A force of 640 in Benares alone - would have its hands over-full with 8,000 Brahmin priests for adversary. - Missionaries need to be well equipped with hope and confidence, and this - equipment they seem to have always had in all parts of the world. Mr. - Parker has it. It enables him to get a favorable outlook out of statistics - which might add up differently with other mathematicians. For instance: - </p> - <p> - "During the past few years competent observers declare that the number of - pilgrims to Benares has increased." - </p> - <p> - And then he adds up this fact and gets this conclusion: - </p> - <p> - "But the revival, if so it may be called, has in it the marks of death. It - is a spasmodic struggle before dissolution." - </p> - <p> - In this world we have seen the Roman Catholic power dying, upon these same - terms, for many centuries. Many a time we have gotten all ready for the - funeral and found it postponed again, on account of the weather or - something. Taught by experience, we ought not to put on our things for - this Brahminical one till we see the procession move. Apparently one of - the most uncertain things in the world is the funeral of a religion. - </p> - <p> - I should have been glad to acquire some sort of idea of Hindoo theology, - but the difficulties were too great, the matter was too intricate. Even - the mere A, B, C of it is baffling. - </p> - <p> - There is a trinity—Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu—independent - powers, apparently, though one cannot feel quite sure of that, because in - one of the temples there is an image where an attempt has been made to - concentrate the three in one person. The three have other names and plenty - of them, and this makes confusion in one's mind. The three have wives and - the wives have several names, and this increases the confusion. There are - children, the children have many names, and thus the confusion goes on and - on. It is not worth while to try to get any grip upon the cloud of minor - gods, there are too many of them. - </p> - <p> - It is even a justifiable economy to leave Brahma, the chiefest god of all, - out of your studies, for he seems to cut no great figure in India. The - vast bulk of the national worship is lavished upon Shiva and Vishnu and - their families. Shiva's symbol—the "lingam" with which Vishnu began - the Creation—is worshiped by everybody, apparently. It is the - commonest object in Benares. It is on view everywhere, it is garlanded - with flowers, offerings are made to it, it suffers no neglect. Commonly it - is an upright stone, shaped like a thimble—sometimes like an - elongated thimble. This priapus-worship, then, is older than history. Mr. - Parker says that the lingams in Benares "outnumber the inhabitants." - </p> - <p> - In Benares there are many Mohammedan mosques. There are Hindoo temples - without number—these quaintly shaped and elaborately sculptured - little stone jugs crowd all the lanes. The Ganges itself and every - individual drop of water in it are temples. Religion, then, is the - business of Benares, just as gold-production is the business of - Johannesburg. Other industries count for nothing as compared with the vast - and all-absorbing rush and drive and boom of the town's specialty. Benares - is the sacredest of sacred cities. The moment you step across the - sharply-defined line which separates it from the rest of the globe, you - stand upon ineffably and unspeakably holy ground. Mr. Parker says: "It is - impossible to convey any adequate idea of the intense feelings of - veneration and affection with which the pious Hindoo regards 'Holy Kashi' - (Benares)." And then he gives you this vivid and moving picture: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Let a Hindoo regiment be marched through the district, and as soon as - they cross the line and enter the limits of the holy place they rend the - air with cries of 'Kashi ji ki jai jai jai! (Holy Kashi! Hail to thee! - Hail! Hail! Hail)'. The weary pilgrim scarcely able to stand, with age - and weakness, blinded by the dust and heat, and almost dead with - fatigue, crawls out of the oven-like railway carriage and as soon as his - feet touch the ground he lifts up his withered hands and utters the same - pious exclamation. Let a European in some distant city in casual talk in - the bazar mention the fact that he has lived at Benares, and at once - voices will be raised to call down blessings on his head, for a dweller - in Benares is of all men most blessed." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It makes our own religious enthusiasm seem pale and cold. Inasmuch as the - life of religion is in the heart, not the head, Mr. Parker's touching - picture seems to promise a sort of indefinite postponement of that - funeral.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch51" id="ch51"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Let me make the superstitions of a nation and I care not who makes its - laws or its songs either.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Yes, the city of Benares is in effect just a big church, a religious hive, - whose every cell is a temple, a shrine or a mosque, and whose every - conceivable earthly and heavenly good is procurable under one roof, so to - speak—a sort of Army and Navy Stores, theologically stocked. - </p> - <p> - I will make out a little itinerary for the pilgrim; then you will see how - handy the system is, how convenient, how comprehensive. If you go to - Benares with a serious desire to spiritually benefit yourself, you will - find it valuable. I got some of the facts from conversations with the Rev. - Mr. Parker and the others from his Guide to Benares; they are therefore - trustworthy. - </p> - <p> - 1. Purification. At sunrise you must go down to the Ganges and bathe, - pray, and drink some of the water. This is for your general purification. - </p> - <p> - 2. Protection against Hunger. Next, you must fortify yourself against the - sorrowful earthly ill just named. This you will do by worshiping for a - moment in the Cow Temple. By the door of it you will find an image of - Ganesh, son of Shiva; it has the head of an elephant on a human body; its - face and hands are of silver. You will worship it a little, and pass on, - into a covered veranda, where you will find devotees reciting from the - sacred books, with the help of instructors. In this place are groups of - rude and dismal idols. You may contribute something for their support; - then pass into the temple, a grim and stenchy place, for it is populous - with sacred cows and with beggars. You will give something to the beggars, - and "reverently kiss the tails" of such cows as pass along, for these cows - are peculiarly holy, and this act of worship will secure you from hunger - for the day.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p485.jpg (10K)" src="images/p485.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - 3. "The Poor Man's Friend." You will next worship this god. He is at the - bottom of a stone cistern in the temple of Dalbhyeswar, under the shade of - a noble peepul tree on the bluff overlooking the Ganges, so you must go - back to the river. The Poor Man's Friend is the god of material prosperity - in general, and the god of the rain in particular. You will secure - material prosperity, or both, by worshiping him. He is Shiva, under a new - alias, and he abides in the bottom of that cistern, in the form of a stone - lingam. You pour Ganges water over him, and in return for this homage you - get the promised benefits. If there is any delay about the rain, you must - pour water in until the cistern is full; the rain will then be sure to - come. - </p> - <p> - 4. Fever. At the Kedar Ghat you will find a long flight of stone steps - leading down to the river. Half way down is a tank filled with sewage. - Drink as much of it as you want. It is for fever. - </p> - <p> - 5. Smallpox. Go straight from there to the central Ghat. At its upstream - end you will find a small whitewashed building, which is a temple sacred - to Sitala, goddess of smallpox. Her under-study is there—a rude - human figure behind a brass screen. You will worship this for reasons to - be furnished presently.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p487.jpg (37K)" src="images/p487.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - 6. The Well of Fate. For certain reasons you will next go and do homage at - this well. You will find it in the Dandpan Temple, in the city. The - sunlight falls into it from a square hole in the masonry above. You will - approach it with awe, for your life is now at stake. You will bend over - and look. If the fates are propitious, you will see your face pictured in - the water far down in the well. If matters have been otherwise ordered, a - sudden cloud will mask the sun and you will see nothing. This means that - you have not six months to live. If you are already at the point of death, - your circumstances are now serious. There is no time to lose. Let this - world go, arrange for the next one. Handily situated, at your very elbow, - is opportunity for this. You turn and worship the image of Maha Kal, the - Great Fate, and happiness in the life to come is secured. If there is - breath in your body yet, you should now make an effort to get a further - lease of the present life. You have a chance. There is a chance for - everything in this admirably stocked and wonderfully systemized Spiritual - and Temporal Army and Navy Store. You must get yourself carried to the - </p> - <p> - 7. Well of Long Life. This is within the precincts of the mouldering and - venerable Briddhkal Temple, which is one of the oldest in Benares. You - pass in by a stone image of the monkey god, Hanuman, and there, among the - ruined courtyards, you will find a shallow pool of stagnant sewage. It - smells like the best limburger cheese, and is filthy with the washings of - rotting lepers, but that is nothing, bathe in it; bathe in it gratefully - and worshipfully, for this is the Fountain of Youth; these are the Waters - of Long Life. Your gray hairs will disappear, and with them your wrinkles - and your rheumatism, the burdens of care and the weariness of age, and you - will come out young, fresh, elastic, and full of eagerness for the new - race of life. Now will come flooding upon you the manifold desires that - haunt the dear dreams of the morning of life. You will go whither you will - find - </p> - <p> - 8. Fulfillment of Desire. To wit, to the Kameshwar Temple, sacred to Shiva - as the Lord of Desires. Arrange for yours there. And if you like to look - at idols among the pack and jam of temples, there you will find enough to - stock a museum. You will begin to commit sins now with a fresh, new - vivacity; therefore, it will be well to go frequently to a place where you - can get - </p> - <p> - 9. Temporary Cleansing from Sin. To wit, to the Well of the Earring. You - must approach this with the profoundest reverence, for it is unutterably - sacred. It is, indeed, the most sacred place in Benares, the very Holy of - Holies, in the estimation of the people. It is a railed tank, with stone - stairways leading down to the water. The water is not clean. Of course it - could not be, for people are always bathing in it. As long as you choose - to stand and look, you will see the files of sinners descending and - ascending—descending soiled with sin, ascending purged from it. "The - liar, the thief, the murderer, and the adulterer may here wash and be - clean," says the Rev. Mr. Parker, in his book. Very well. I know Mr. - Parker, and I believe it; but if anybody else had said it, I should - consider him a person who had better go down in the tank and take another - wash. The god Vishnu dug this tank. He had nothing to dig with but his - "discus." I do not know what a discus is, but I know it is a poor thing to - dig tanks with, because, by the time this one was finished, it was full of - sweat—Vishnu's sweat. He constructed the site that Benares stands - on, and afterward built the globe around it, and thought nothing of it, - yet sweated like that over a little thing like this tank. One of these - statements is doubtful. I do not know which one it is, but I think it - difficult not to believe that a god who could build a world around Benares - would not be intelligent enough to build it around the tank too, and not - have to dig it. Youth, long life, temporary purification from sin, - salvation through propitiation of the Great Fate—these are all good. - But you must do something more. You must - </p> - <p> - 10. Make Salvation Sure. There are several ways. To get drowned in the - Ganges is one, but that is not pleasant. To die within the limits of - Benares is another; but that is a risky one, because you might be out of - town when your time came. The best one of all is the Pilgrimage Around the - City. You must walk; also, you must go barefoot. The tramp is forty-four - miles, for the road winds out into the country a piece, and you will be - marching five or six days. But you will have plenty of company. You will - move with throngs and hosts of happy pilgrims whose radiant costumes will - make the spectacle beautiful and whose glad songs and holy pans of triumph - will banish your fatigues and cheer your spirit; and at intervals there - will be temples where you may sleep and be refreshed with food. The - pilgrimage completed, you have purchased salvation, and paid for it. But - you may not get it unless you - </p> - <p> - 11. Get Your Redemption Recorded. You can get this done at the Sakhi - Binayak Temple, and it is best to do it, for otherwise you might not be - able to prove that you had made the pilgrimage in case the matter should - some day come to be disputed. That temple is in a lane back of the Cow - Temple. Over the door is a red image of Ganesh of the elephant head, son - and heir of Shiva, and Prince of Wales to the Theological Monarchy, so to - speak. Within is a god whose office it is to record your pilgrimage and be - responsible for you. You will not see him, but you will see a Brahmin who - will attend to the matter and take the money. If he should forget to - collect the money, you can remind him. <i>He</i> knows that your salvation - is now secure, but of course you would like to know it yourself. You have - nothing to do but go and pray, and pay at the - </p> - <p> - 12. Well of the Knowledge of Salvation. It is close to the Golden Temple. - There you will see, sculptured out of a single piece of black marble, a - bull which is much larger than any living bull you have ever seen, and yet - is not a good likeness after all. And there also you will see a very - uncommon thing—an image of Shiva. You have seen his lingam fifty - thousand times already, but this is Shiva himself, and said to be a good - likeness. It has three eyes. He is the only god in the firm that has - three. "The well is covered by a fine canopy of stone supported by forty - pillars," and around it you will find what you have already seen at almost - every shrine you have visited in Benares, a mob of devout and eager - pilgrims. The sacred water is being ladled out to them; with it comes to - them the knowledge, clear, thrilling, absolute, that they are saved; and - you can see by their faces that there is one happiness in this world which - is supreme, and to which no other joy is comparable. You receive your - water, you make your deposit, and now what more would you have? Gold, - diamonds, power, fame? All in a single moment these things have withered - to dirt, dust, ashes. The world has nothing to give you now. For you it is - bankrupt. - </p> - <p> - I do not claim that the pilgrims do their acts of worship in the order and - sequence above charted out in this Itinerary of mine, but I think logic - suggests that they ought to do so. Instead of a helter-skelter worship, we - then have a definite starting-place, and a march which carries the pilgrim - steadily forward by reasoned and logical progression to a definite goal. - Thus, his Ganges bath in the early morning gives him an appetite; he - kisses the cow-tails, and that removes it. It is now business hours, and - longings for material prosperity rise in his mind, and he goes and pours - water over Shiva's symbol; this insures the prosperity, but also brings on - a rain, which gives him a fever. Then he drinks the sewage at the Kedar - Ghat to cure the fever; it cures the fever but gives him the smallpox. He - wishes to know how it is going to turn out; he goes to the Dandpan Temple - and looks down the well. A clouded sun shows him that death is near. - Logically his best course for the present, since he cannot tell at what - moment he may die, is to secure a happy hereafter; this he does, through - the agency of the Great Fate. He is safe, now, for heaven; his next move - will naturally be to keep out of it as long as he can. Therefore he goes - to the Briddhkal Temple and secures Youth and long life by bathing in a - puddle of leper-pus which would kill a microbe. Logically, Youth has - re-equipped him for sin and with the disposition to commit it; he will - naturally go to the fane which is consecrated to the Fulfillment of - Desires, and make arrangements. Logically, he will now go to the Well of - the Earring from time to time to unload and freshen up for further banned - enjoyments. But first and last and all the time he is human, and therefore - in his reflective intervals he will always be speculating in "futures." He - will make the Great Pilgrimage around the city and so make his salvation - absolutely sure; he will also have record made of it, so that it may - remain absolutely sure and not be forgotten or repudiated in the confusion - of the Final Settlement. Logically, also, he will wish to have satisfying - and tranquilizing personal knowledge that that salvation is secure; - therefore he goes to the Well of the Knowledge of Salvation, adds that - completing detail, and then goes about his affairs serene and content; - serene and content, for he is now royally endowed with an advantage which - no religion in this world could give him but his own; for henceforth he - may commit as many million sins as he wants to and nothing can come of it. - </p> - <p> - Thus the system, properly and logically ordered, is neat, compact, clearly - defined, and covers the whole ground. I desire to recommend it to such as - find the other systems too difficult, exacting, and irksome for the uses - of this fretful brief life of ours. - </p> - <p> - However, let me not deceive any one. My Itinerary lacks a detail. I must - put it in. The truth is, that after the pilgrim has faithfully followed - the requirements of the Itinerary through to the end and has secured his - salvation and also the personal knowledge of that fact, there is still an - accident possible to him which can annul the whole thing. If he should - ever cross to the other side of the Ganges and get caught out and die - there he would at once come to life again in the form of an ass. Think of - that, after all this trouble and expense. You see how capricious and - uncertain salvation is there. The Hindoo has a childish and unreasoning - aversion to being turned into an ass. It is hard to tell why. One could - properly expect an ass to have an aversion to being turned into a Hindoo. - One could understand that he could lose dignity by it; also self-respect, - and nine-tenths of his intelligence. But the Hindoo changed into an ass - wouldn't lose anything, unless you count his religion. And he would gain - much—release from his slavery to two million gods and twenty million - priests, fakeers, holy mendicants, and other sacred bacilli; he would - escape the Hindoo hell; he would also escape the Hindoo heaven. These are - advantages which the Hindoo ought to consider; then he would go over and - die on the other side.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p493.jpg (18K)" src="images/p493.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Benares is a religious Vesuvius. In its bowels the theological forces have - been heaving and tossing, rumbling, thundering and quaking, boiling, and - weltering and flaming and smoking for ages. But a little group of - missionaries have taken post at its base, and they have hopes. There are - the Baptist Missionary Society, the Church Missionary Society, the London - Missionary Society, the Wesleyan Missionary Society, and the Zenana Bible - and Medical Mission. They have schools, and the principal work seems to be - among the children. And no doubt that part of the work prospers best, for - grown people everywhere are always likely to cling to the religion they - were brought up in.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p495.jpg (48K)" src="images/p495.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch52" id="ch52"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Wrinkles should merely indicate where smiles have been.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - In one of those Benares temples we saw a devotee working for salvation in - a curious way. He had a huge wad of clay beside him and was making it up - into little wee gods no bigger than carpet tacks. He stuck a grain of rice - into each—to represent the lingam, I think. He turned them out - nimbly, for he had had long practice and had acquired great facility. - Every day he made 2,000 gods, then threw them into the holy Ganges. This - act of homage brought him the profound homage of the pious—also - their coppers. He had a sure living here, and was earning a high place in - the hereafter. - </p> - <p> - The Ganges front is the supreme show-place of Benares. Its tall bluffs are - solidly caked from water to summit, along a stretch of three miles, with a - splendid jumble of massive and picturesque masonry, a bewildering and - beautiful confusion of stone platforms, temples, stair-flights, rich and - stately palaces—nowhere a break, nowhere a glimpse of the bluff - itself; all the long face of it is compactly walled from sight by this - crammed perspective of platforms, soaring stairways, sculptured temples, - majestic palaces, softening away into the distances; and there is - movement, motion, human life everywhere, and brilliantly costumed—streaming - in rainbows up and down the lofty stairways, and massed in metaphorical - flower-gardens on the miles of great platforms at the river's edge. - </p> - <p> - All this masonry, all this architecture represents piety. The palaces were - built by native princes whose homes, as a rule, are far from Benares, but - who go there from time to time to refresh their souls with the sight and - touch of the Ganges, the river of their idolatry. The stairways are - records of acts of piety; the crowd of costly little temples are tokens of - money spent by rich men for present credit and hope of future reward. - Apparently, the rich Christian who spends large sums upon his religion is - conspicuous with us, by his rarity, but the rich Hindoo who doesn't spend - large sums upon his religion is seemingly non-existent. With us the poor - spend money on their religion, but they keep back some to live on. - Apparently, in India, the poor bankrupt themselves daily for their - religion. The rich Hindoo can afford his pious outlays; he gets much glory - for his spendings, yet keeps back a sufficiency of his income for temporal - purposes; but the poor Hindoo is entitled to compassion, for his spendings - keep him poor, yet get him no glory. - </p> - <p> - We made the usual trip up and down the river, seated in chairs under an - awning on the deck of the usual commodious hand-propelled ark; made it two - or three times, and could have made it with increasing interest and - enjoyment many times more; for, of course, the palaces and temples would - grow more and more beautiful every time one saw them, for that happens - with all such things; also, I think one would not get tired of the - bathers, nor their costumes, nor of their ingenuities in getting out of - them and into them again without exposing too much bronze, nor of their - devotional gesticulations and absorbed bead-tellings. - </p> - <p> - But I should get tired of seeing them wash their mouths with that dreadful - water and drink it. In fact, I did get tired of it, and very early, too. - At one place where we halted for a while, the foul gush from a sewer was - making the water turbid and murky all around, and there was a random - corpse slopping around in it that had floated down from up country. Ten - steps below that place stood a crowd of men, women, and comely young - maidens waist deep in the water-and they were scooping it up in their - hands and drinking it. Faith can certainly do wonders, and this is an - instance of it. Those people were not drinking that fearful stuff to - assuage thirst, but in order to purify their souls and the interior of - their bodies. According to their creed, the Ganges water makes everything - pure that it touches—instantly and utterly pure. The sewer water was - not an offence to them, the corpse did not revolt them; the sacred water - had touched both, and both were now snow-pure, and could defile no one. - The memory of that sight will always stay by me; but not by request.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p498.jpg (57K)" src="images/p498.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - A word further concerning the nasty but all-purifying Ganges water. When - we went to Agra, by and by, we happened there just in time to be in at the - birth of a marvel—a memorable scientific discovery—the - discovery that in certain ways the foul and derided Ganges water is the - most puissant purifier in the world! This curious fact, as I have said, - had just been added to the treasury of modern science. It had long been - noted as a strange thing that while Benares is often afflicted with the - cholera she does not spread it beyond her borders. This could not be - accounted for. Mr. Henkin, the scientist in the employ of the government - of Agra, concluded to examine the water. He went to Benares and made his - tests. He got water at the mouths of the sewers where they empty into the - river at the bathing ghats; a cubic centimetre of it contained millions of - germs; at the end of six hours they were all dead. He caught a floating - corpse, towed it to the shore, and from beside it he dipped up water that - was swarming with cholera germs; at the end of six hours they were all - dead. He added swarm after swarm of cholera germs to this water; within - the six hours they always died, to the last sample. Repeatedly, he took - pure well water which was barren of animal life, and put into it a few - cholera germs; they always began to propagate at once, and always within - six hours they swarmed—and were numberable by millions upon - millions. - </p> - <p> - For ages and ages the Hindoos have had absolute faith that the water of - the Ganges was absolutely pure, could not be defiled by any contact - whatsoever, and infallibly made pure and clean whatsoever thing touched - it. They still believe it, and that is why they bathe in it and drink it, - caring nothing for its seeming filthiness and the floating corpses. The - Hindoos have been laughed at, these many generations, but the laughter - will need to modify itself a little from now on. How did they find out the - water's secret in those ancient ages? Had they germ-scientists then? We do - not know. We only know that they had a civilization long before we emerged - from savagery. But to return to where I was before; I was about to speak - of the burning-ghat. - </p> - <p> - They do not burn fakeers—those revered mendicants. They are so holy - that they can get to their place without that sacrament, provided they be - consigned to the consecrating river. We saw one carried to mid-stream and - thrown overboard. He was sandwiched between two great slabs of stone. - </p> - <p> - We lay off the cremation-ghat half an hour and saw nine corpses burned. I - should not wish to see any more of it, unless I might select the parties. - The mourners follow the bier through the town and down to the ghat; then - the bier-bearers deliver the body to some low-caste natives—Doms—and - the mourners turn about and go back home. I heard no crying and saw no - tears, there was no ceremony of parting. Apparently, these expressions of - grief and affection are reserved for the privacy of the home. The dead - women came draped in red, the men in white. They are laid in the water at - the river's edge while the pyre is being prepared. - </p> - <p> - The first subject was a man. When the Doms unswathed him to wash him, he - proved to be a sturdily built, well-nourished and handsome old gentleman, - with not a sign about him to suggest that he had ever been ill. Dry wood - was brought and built up into a loose pile; the corpse was laid upon it - and covered over with fuel. Then a naked holy man who was sitting on high - ground a little distance away began to talk and shout with great energy, - and he kept up this noise right along. It may have been the funeral - sermon, and probably was. I forgot to say that one of the mourners - remained behind when the others went away. This was the dead man's son, a - boy of ten or twelve, brown and handsome, grave and self-possessed, and - clothed in flowing white. He was there to burn his father. He was given a - torch, and while he slowly walked seven times around the pyre the naked - black man on the high ground poured out his sermon more clamorously than - ever. The seventh circuit completed, the boy applied the torch at his - father's head, then at his feet; the flames sprang briskly up with a sharp - crackling noise, and the lad went away. Hindoos do not want daughters, - because their weddings make such a ruinous expense; but they want sons, so - that at death they may have honorable exit from the world; and there is no - honor equal to the honor of having one's pyre lighted by one's son. The - father who dies sonless is in a grievous situation indeed, and is pitied. - Life being uncertain, the Hindoo marries while he is still a boy, in the - hope that he will have a son ready when the day of his need shall come. - But if he have no son, he will adopt one. This answers every purpose. - </p> - <p> - Meantime the corpse is burning, also several others. It is a dismal - business. The stokers did not sit down in idleness, but moved briskly - about, punching up the fires with long poles, and now and then adding - fuel. Sometimes they hoisted the half of a skeleton into the air, then - slammed it down and beat it with the pole, breaking it up so that it would - burn better. They hoisted skulls up in the same way and banged and - battered them. The sight was hard to bear; it would have been harder if - the mourners had stayed to witness it. I had but a moderate desire to see - a cremation, so it was soon satisfied. For sanitary reasons it would be - well if cremation were universal; but this form is revolting, and not to - be recommended. - </p> - <p> - The fire used is sacred, of course—for there is money in it. - Ordinary fire is forbidden; there is no money in it. I was told that this - sacred fire is all furnished by one person, and that he has a monopoly of - it and charges a good price for it. Sometimes a rich mourner pays a - thousand rupees for it. To get to paradise from India is an expensive - thing. Every detail connected with the matter costs something, and helps - to fatten a priest. I suppose it is quite safe to conclude that that - fire-bug is in holy orders.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p501.jpg (16K)" src="images/p501.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Close to the cremation-ground stand a few time-worn stones which are - remembrances of the suttee. Each has a rough carving upon it, representing - a man and a woman standing or walking hand in hand, and marks the spot - where a widow went to her death by fire in the days when the suttee - flourished. Mr. Parker said that widows would burn themselves now if the - government would allow it. The family that can point to one of these - little memorials and say: "She who burned herself there was an ancestress - of ours," is envied. - </p> - <p> - It is a curious people. With them, all life seems to be sacred except - human life. Even the life of vermin is sacred, and must not be taken. The - good Jain wipes off a seat before using it, lest he cause the death - of-some valueless insect by sitting down on it. It grieves him to have to - drink water, because the provisions in his stomach may not agree with the - microbes. Yet India invented Thuggery and the Suttee. India is a hard - country to understand. We went to the temple of the Thug goddess, - Bhowanee, or Kali, or Durga. She has these names and others. She is the - only god to whom living sacrifices are made. Goats are sacrificed to her. - Monkeys would be cheaper.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p503.jpg (72K)" src="images/p503.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - There are plenty of them about the place. Being sacred, they make - themselves very free, and scramble around wherever they please. The temple - and its porch are beautifully carved, but this is not the case with the - idol. Bhowanee is not pleasant to look at. She has a silver face, and a - projecting swollen tongue painted a deep red. She wears a necklace of - skulls. - </p> - <p> - In fact, none of the idols in Benares are handsome or attractive. And what - a swarm of them there is! The town is a vast museum of idols—and all - of them crude, misshapen, and ugly. They flock through one's dreams at - night, a wild mob of nightmares. When you get tired of them in the temples - and take a trip on the river, you find idol giants, flashily painted, - stretched out side by side on the shore. And apparently wherever there is - room for one more lingam, a lingam is there. If Vishnu had foreseen what - his town was going to be, he would have called it Idolville or Lingamburg. - </p> - <p> - The most conspicuous feature of Benares is the pair of slender white - minarets which tower like masts from the great Mosque of Aurangzeb. They - seem to be always in sight, from everywhere, those airy, graceful, - inspiring things. But masts is not the right word, for masts have a - perceptible taper, while these minarets have not. They are 142 feet high, - and only 8 1/2 feet in diameter at the base, and 7 1/2 at the summit—scarcely - any taper at all. These are the proportions of a candle; and fair and - fairylike candles these are. Will be, anyway, some day, when the - Christians inherit them and top them with the electric light. There is a - great view from up there—a wonderful view. A large gray monkey was - part of it, and damaged it. A monkey has no judgment. This one was - skipping about the upper great heights of the mosque—skipping across - empty yawning intervals which were almost too wide for him, and which he - only just barely cleared, each time, by the skin of his teeth. He got me - so nervous that I couldn't look at the view. I couldn't look at anything - but him. Every time he went sailing over one of those abysses my breath - stood still, and when he grabbed for the perch he was going for, I grabbed - too, in sympathy. And he was perfectly indifferent, perfectly unconcerned, - and I did all the panting myself. He came within an ace of losing his life - a dozen times, and I was so troubled about him that I would have shot him - if I had had anything to do it with. But I strongly recommend the view. - There is more monkey than view, and there is always going to be more - monkey while that idiot survives, but what view you get is superb. All - Benares, the river, and the region round about are spread before you. Take - a gun, and look at the view. - </p> - <p> - The next thing I saw was more reposeful. It was a new kind of art. It was - a picture painted on water. It was done by a native. He sprinkled fine - dust of various colors on the still surface of a basin of water, and out - of these sprinklings a dainty and pretty picture gradually grew, a picture - which a breath could destroy. Somehow it was impressive, after so much - browsing among massive and battered and decaying fanes that rest upon - ruins, and those ruins upon still other ruins, and those upon still others - again. It was a sermon, an allegory, a symbol of Instability. Those - creations in stone were only a kind of water pictures, after all. - </p> - <p> - A prominent episode in the Indian career of Warren Hastings had Benares - for its theater. Wherever that extraordinary man set his foot, he left his - mark. He came to Benares in 1781 to collect a fine of L500,000 which he - had levied upon its Rajah, Cheit Singh, on behalf of the East India - Company. Hastings was a long way from home and help. There were, probably, - not a dozen Englishmen within reach; the Rajah was in his fort with his - myriads around him. But no matter. From his little camp in a neighboring - garden, Hastings sent a party to arrest the sovereign. He sent on this - daring mission a couple of hundred native soldiers— sepoys—under - command of three young English lieutenants. The Rajah submitted without a - word. The incident lights up the Indian situation electrically, and gives - one a vivid sense of the strides which the English had made and the - mastership they had acquired in the land since the date of Clive's great - victory. In a quarter of a century, from being nobodies, and feared by - none, they were become confessed lords and masters, feared by all, - sovereigns included, and served by all, sovereigns included. It makes the - fairy tales sound true. The English had not been afraid to enlist native - soldiers to fight against their own people and keep them obedient. And now - Hastings was not afraid to come away out to this remote place with a - handful of such soldiers and send them to arrest a native sovereign. - </p> - <p> - The lieutenants imprisoned the Rajah in his own fort. It was beautiful, - the pluckiness of it, the impudence of it. The arrest enraged the Rajah's - people, and all Benares came storming about the place and threatening - vengeance. And yet, but for an accident, nothing important would have - resulted, perhaps. The mob found out a most strange thing, an almost - incredible thing—that this handful of soldiers had come on this - hardy errand with empty guns and no ammunition. This has been attributed - to thoughtlessness, but it could hardly have been that, for in such large - emergencies as this, intelligent people do think. It must have been - indifference, an over-confidence born of the proved submissiveness of the - native character, when confronted by even one or two stern Britons in - their war paint. But, however that may be, it was a fatal discovery that - the mob had made. They were full of courage, now, and they broke into the - fort and massacred the helpless soldiers and their officers. Hastings - escaped from Benares by night and got safely away, leaving the - principality in a state of wild insurrection; but he was back again within - the month, and quieted it down in his prompt and virile way, and took the - Rajah's throne away from him and gave it to another man. He was a capable - kind of person was Warren Hastings. This was the only time he was ever out - of ammunition. Some of his acts have left stains upon his name which can - never be washed away, but he saved to England the Indian Empire, and that - was the best service that was ever done to the Indians themselves, those - wretched heirs of a hundred centuries of pitiless oppression and abuse.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch53" id="ch53"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>True irreverence is disrespect for another man's god.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - It was in Benares that I saw another living god. That makes two. I believe - I have seen most of the greater and lesser wonders of the world, but I do - not remember that any of them interested me so overwhelmingly as did that - pair of gods. - </p> - <p> - When I try to account for this effect I find no difficulty about it. I - find that, as a rule, when a thing is a wonder to us it is not because of - what we see in it, but because of what others have seen in it. We get - almost all our wonders at second hand. We are eager to see any celebrated - thing—and we never fail of our reward; just the deep privilege of - gazing upon an object which has stirred the enthusiasm or evoked the - reverence or affection or admiration of multitudes of our race is a thing - which we value; we are profoundly glad that we have seen it, we are - permanently enriched from having seen it, we would not part with the - memory of that experience for a great price. And yet that very spectacle - may be the Taj. You cannot keep your enthusiasms down, you cannot keep - your emotions within bounds when that soaring bubble of marble breaks upon - your view. But these are not your enthusiasms and emotions—they are - the accumulated emotions and enthusiasms of a thousand fervid writers, who - have been slowly and steadily storing them up in your heart day by day and - year by year all your life; and now they burst out in a flood and - overwhelm you; and you could not be a whit happier if they were your very - own. By and by you sober down, and then you perceive that you have been - drunk on the smell of somebody else's cork. For ever and ever the memory - of my distant first glimpse of the Taj will compensate me for creeping - around the globe to have that great privilege. - </p> - <p> - But the Taj—with all your inflation of delusive emotions, acquired - at second-hand from people to whom in the majority of cases they were also - delusions acquired at second-hand—a thing which you fortunately did - not think of or it might have made you doubtful of what you imagined were - your own what is the Taj as a marvel, a spectacle and an uplifting and - overpowering wonder, compared with a living, breathing, speaking personage - whom several millions of human beings devoutly and sincerely and - unquestioningly believe to be a God, and humbly and gratefully worship as - a God? - </p> - <p> - He was sixty years old when I saw him. He is called Sri 108 Swami - Bhaskarananda Saraswati. That is one form of it. I think that that is what - you would call him in speaking to him—because it is short. But you - would use more of his name in addressing a letter to him; courtesy would - require this. Even then you would not have to use all of it, but only this - much: - </p> - <p> - Sri 108 Matparamahansrzpairivrajakacharyaswamibhaskaranandasaraswati. - </p> - <p> - You do not put "Esq." after it, for that is not necessary. The word which - opens the volley is itself a title of honor "Sri." The "108" stands for - the rest of his names, I believe. Vishnu has 108 names which he does not - use in business, and no doubt it is a custom of gods and a privilege - sacred to their order to keep 108 extra ones in stock. Just the restricted - name set down above is a handsome property, without the 108. By my count - it has 58 letters in it. This removes the long German words from - competition; they are permanently out of the race. - </p> - <p> - Sri 108 S. B. Saraswati has attained to what among the Hindoos is called - the "state of perfection." It is a state which other Hindoos reach by - being born again and again, and over and over again into this world, - through one re-incarnation after another—a tiresome long job - covering centuries and decades of centuries, and one that is full of - risks, too, like the accident of dying on the wrong side of the Ganges - some time or other and waking up in the form of an ass, with a fresh start - necessary and the numerous trips to be made all over again. But in - reaching perfection, Sri 108 S. B. S. has escaped all that. He is no - longer a part or a feature of this world; his substance has changed, all - earthiness has departed out of it; he is utterly holy, utterly pure; - nothing can desecrate this holiness or stain this purity; he is no longer - of the earth, its concerns are matters foreign to him, its pains and - griefs and troubles cannot reach him. When he dies, Nirvana is his; he - will be absorbed into the substance of the Supreme Deity and be at peace - forever. - </p> - <p> - The Hindoo Scriptures point out how this state is to be reached, but it is - only once in a thousand years, perhaps, that candidate accomplishes it. - This one has traversed the course required, stage by stage, from the - beginning to the end, and now has nothing left to do but wait for the call - which shall release him from a world in which he has now no part nor lot. - First, he passed through the student stage, and became learned in the holy - books. Next he became citizen, householder, husband, and father. That was - the required second stage. Then—like John Bunyan's Christian he bade - perpetual good-bye to his family, as required, and went wandering away. He - went far into the desert and served a term as hermit. Next, he became a - beggar, "in accordance with the rites laid down in the Scriptures," and - wandered about India eating the bread of mendicancy. A quarter of a - century ago he reached the stage of purity. This needs no garment; its - symbol is nudity; he discarded the waist-cloth which he had previously - worn. He could resume it now if he chose, for neither that nor any other - contact can defile him; but he does not choose. - </p> - <p> - There are several other stages, I believe, but I do not remember what they - are. But he has been through them. Throughout the long course he was - perfecting himself in holy learning, and writing commentaries upon the - sacred books. He was also meditating upon Brahma, and he does that now. - </p> - <p> - White marble relief-portraits of him are sold all about India. He lives in - a good house in a noble great garden in Benares, all meet and proper to - his stupendous rank. Necessarily he does not go abroad in the streets. - Deities would never be able to move about handily in any country. If one - whom we recognized and adored as a god should go abroad in our streets, - and the day it was to happen were known, all traffic would be blocked and - business would come to a standstill. - </p> - <p> - This god is comfortably housed, and yet modestly, all things considered, - for if he wanted to live in a palace he would only need to speak and his - worshipers would gladly build it. Sometimes he sees devotees for a moment, - and comforts them and blesses them, and they kiss his feet and go away - happy. Rank is nothing to him, he being a god. To him all men are alike. - He sees whom he pleases and denies himself to whom he pleases. Sometimes - he sees a prince and denies himself to a pauper; at other times he - receives the pauper and turns the prince away. However, he does not - receive many of either class. He has to husband his time for his - meditations. I think he would receive Rev. Mr. Parker at any time. I think - he is sorry for Mr. Parker, and I think Mr. Parker is sorry for him; and - no doubt this compassion is good for both of them. - </p> - <p> - When we arrived we had to stand around in the garden a little while and - wait, and the outlook was not good, for he had been turning away Maharajas - that day and receiving only the riff-raff, and we belonged in between, - somewhere. But presently, a servant came out saying it was all right, he - was coming. - </p> - <p> - And sure enough, he came, and I saw him—that object of the worship - of millions. It was a strange sensation, and thrilling. I wish I could - feel it stream through my veins again. And yet, to me he was not a god, he - was only a Taj. The thrill was not my thrill, but had come to me - secondhand from those invisible millions of believers. By a hand-shake - with their god I had ground-circuited their wire and got their monster - battery's whole charge. - </p> - <p> - He was tall and slender, indeed emaciated. He had a clean cut and - conspicuously intellectual face, and a deep and kindly eye. He looked many - years older than he really was, but much study and meditation and fasting - and prayer, with the arid life he had led as hermit and beggar, could - account for that. He is wholly nude when he receives natives, of whatever - rank they may be, but he had white cloth around his loins now, a - concession to Mr. Parker's European prejudices, no doubt. - </p> - <p> - As soon as I had sobered down a little we got along very well together, - and I found him a most pleasant and friendly deity. He had heard a deal - about Chicago, and showed a quite remarkable interest in it, for a god. It - all came of the World's Fair and the Congress of Religions. If India knows - about nothing else American, she knows about those, and will keep them in - mind one while. - </p> - <p> - He proposed an exchange of autographs, a delicate attention which made me - believe in him, but I had been having my doubts before. He wrote his in - his book, and I have a reverent regard for that book, though the words run - from right to left, and so I can't read it. It was a mistake to print in - that way. It contains his voluminous comments on the Hindoo holy writings, - and if I could make them out I would try for perfection myself. I gave him - a copy of Huckleberry Finn. I thought it might rest him up a little to mix - it in along with his meditations on Brahma, for he looked tired, and I - knew that if it didn't do him any good it wouldn't do him any harm.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p512.jpg (53K)" src="images/p512.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - He has a scholar meditating under him—Mina Bahadur Rana—but we - did not see him. He wears clothes and is very imperfect. He has written a - little pamphlet about his master, and I have that. It contains a wood-cut - of the master and himself seated on a rug in the garden. The portrait of - the master is very good indeed. The posture is exactly that which Brahma - himself affects, and it requires long arms and limber legs, and can be - accumulated only by gods and the india-rubber man. There is a life-size - marble relief of Shri 108, S.B.S. in the garden. It represents him in this - same posture.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p513.jpg (17K)" src="images/p513.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Dear me! It is a strange world. Particularly the Indian division of it. - This pupil, Mina Bahadur Rana, is not a commonplace person, but a man of - distinguished capacities and attainments, and, apparently, he had a fine - worldly career in front of him. He was serving the Nepal Government in a - high capacity at the Court of the Viceroy of India, twenty years ago. He - was an able man, educated, a thinker, a man of property. But the longing - to devote himself to a religious life came upon him, and he resigned his - place, turned his back upon the vanities and comforts of the world, and - went away into the solitudes to live in a hut and study the sacred - writings and meditate upon virtue and holiness and seek to attain them. - This sort of religion resembles ours. Christ recommended the rich to give - away all their property and follow Him in poverty, not in worldly comfort. - American and English millionaires do it every day, and thus verify and - confirm to the world the tremendous forces that lie in religion. Yet many - people scoff at them for this loyalty to duty, and many will scoff at Mina - Bahadur Rana and call him a crank. Like many Christians of great character - and intellect, he has made the study of his Scriptures and the writing of - books of commentaries upon them the loving labor of his life. Like them, - he has believed that his was not an idle and foolish waste of his life, - but a most worthy and honorable employment of it. Yet, there are many - people who will see in those others, men worthy of homage and deep - reverence, but in him merely a crank. But I shall not. He has my - reverence. And I don't offer it as a common thing and poor, but as an - unusual thing and of value. The ordinary reverence, the reverence defined - and explained by the dictionary costs nothing. Reverence for one's own - sacred things—parents, religion, flag, laws, and respect for one's - own beliefs—these are feelings which we cannot even help. They come - natural to us; they are involuntary, like breathing. There is no personal - merit in breathing. But the reverence which is difficult, and which has - personal merit in it, is the respect which you pay, without compulsion, to - the political or religious attitude of a man whose beliefs are not yours. - You can't revere his gods or his politics, and no one expects you to do - that, but you could respect his belief in them if you tried hard enough; - and you could respect him, too, if you tried hard enough. But it is very, - very difficult; it is next to impossible, and so we hardly ever try. If - the man doesn't believe as we do, we say he is a crank, and that settles - it. I mean it does nowadays, because now we can't burn him. - </p> - <p> - We are always canting about people's "irreverence," always charging this - offense upon somebody or other, and thereby intimating that we are better - than that person and do not commit that offense ourselves. Whenever we do - this we are in a lying attitude, and our speech is cant; for none of us - are reverent—in a meritorious way; deep down in our hearts we are - all irreverent. There is probably not a single exception to this rule in - the earth. There is probably not one person whose reverence rises higher - than respect for his own sacred things; and therefore, it is not a thing - to boast about and be proud of, since the most degraded savage has that—and, - like the best of us, has nothing higher. To speak plainly, we despise all - reverences and all objects of reverence which are outside the pale of our - own list of sacred things. And yet, with strange inconsistency, we are - shocked when other people despise and defile the things which are holy to - us. Suppose we should meet with a paragraph like the following, in the - newspapers: - </p> - <p> - "Yesterday a visiting party of the British nobility had a picnic at Mount - Vernon, and in the tomb of Washington they ate their luncheon, sang - popular songs, played games, and danced waltzes and polkas." - </p> - <p> - Should we be shocked? Should we feel outraged? Should we be amazed? Should - we call the performance a desecration? Yes, that would all happen. We - should denounce those people in round terms, and call them hard names.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p516.jpg (30K)" src="images/p516.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - And suppose we found this paragraph in the newspapers: - </p> - <p> - "Yesterday a visiting party of American pork-millionaires had a picnic in - Westminster Abbey, and in that sacred place they ate their luncheon, sang - popular songs, played games, and danced waltzes and polkas." - </p> - <p> - Would the English be shocked? Would they feel outraged? Would they be - amazed? Would they call the performance a desecration? That would all - happen. The pork-millionaires would be denounced in round terms; they - would be called hard names. - </p> - <p> - In the tomb at Mount Vernon lie the ashes of America's most honored son; - in the Abbey, the ashes of England's greatest dead; the tomb of tombs, the - costliest in the earth, the wonder of the world, the Taj, was built by a - great Emperor to honor the memory of a perfect wife and perfect mother, - one in whom there was no spot or blemish, whose love was his stay and - support, whose life was the light of the world to him; in it her ashes - lie, and to the Mohammedan millions of India it is a holy place; to them - it is what Mount Vernon is to Americans, it is what the Abbey is to the - English. - </p> - <p> - Major Sleeman wrote forty or fifty years ago (the italics are mine): - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "I would here enter my humble protest against the quadrille and lunch - parties which are sometimes given to European ladies and gentlemen of - the station at this imperial tomb; drinking and dancing are no doubt - very good things in their season, but they are sadly out of place in a - sepulchre." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Were there any Americans among those lunch parties? If they were invited, - there were. - </p> - <p> - If my imagined lunch-parties in Westminster and the tomb of Washington - should take place, the incident would cause a vast outbreak of bitter - eloquence about Barbarism and Irreverence; and it would come from two sets - of people who would go next day and dance in the Taj if they had a chance. - </p> - <p> - As we took our leave of the Benares god and started away we noticed a - group of natives waiting respectfully just within the gate—a Rajah - from somewhere in India, and some people of lesser consequence. The god - beckoned them to come, and as we passed out the Rajah was kneeling and - reverently kissing his sacred feet. - </p> - <p> - If Barnum—but Barnum's ambitions are at rest. This god will remain - in the holy peace and seclusion of his garden, undisturbed. Barnum could - not have gotten him, anyway. Still, he would have found a substitute that - would answer.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch54" id="ch54"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LIV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Do not undervalue the headache. While it is at its sharpest it seems a - bad investment; but when relief begins, the unexpired remainder is worth - $4 a minute.</i> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - A comfortable railway journey of seventeen and a half hours brought us to - the capital of India, which is likewise the capital of Bengal—Calcutta. - Like Bombay, it has a population of nearly a million natives and a small - gathering of white people. It is a huge city and fine, and is called the - City of Palaces. It is rich in historical memories; rich in British - achievement—military, political, commercial; rich in the results of - the miracles done by that brace of mighty magicians, Clive and Hastings. - And has a cloud kissing monument to one Ochterlony. - </p> - <p> - It is a fluted candlestick 250 feet high. This lingam is the only large - monument in Calcutta, I believe. It is a fine ornament, and will keep - Ochterlony in mind. - </p> - <p> - Wherever you are, in Calcutta, and for miles around, you can see it; and - always when you see it you think of Ochterlony. And so there is not an - hour in the day that you do not think of Ochterlony and wonder who he was. - It is good that Clive cannot come back, for he would think it was for - Plassey; and then that great spirit would be wounded when the revelation - came that it was not. Clive would find out that it was for Ochterlony; and - he would think Ochterlony was a battle. And he would think it was a great - one, too, and he would say, "With three thousand I whipped sixty thousand - and founded the Empire—and there is no monument; this other soldier - must have whipped a billion with a dozen and saved the world." - </p> - <p> - But he would be mistaken. Ochterlony was a man, not a battle. And he did - good and honorable service, too; as good and honorable service as has been - done in India by seventy-five or a hundred other Englishmen of courage, - rectitude, and distinguished capacity. For India has been a fertile - breeding-ground of such men, and remains so; great men, both in war and in - the civil service, and as modest as great. But they have no monuments, and - were not expecting any. Ochterlony could not have been expecting one, and - it is not at all likely that he desired one—certainly not until - Clive and Hastings should be supplied. Every day Clive and Hastings lean - on the battlements of heaven and look down and wonder which of the two the - monument is for; and they fret and worry because they cannot find out, and - so the peace of heaven is spoiled for them and lost. But not for - Ochterlony. Ochterlony is not troubled. He doesn't suspect that it is his - monument. Heaven is sweet and peaceful to him. There is a sort of - unfairness about it all. - </p> - <p> - Indeed, if monuments were always given in India for high achievements, - duty straitly performed, and smirchless records, the landscape would be - monotonous with them. The handful of English in India govern the Indian - myriads with apparent ease, and without noticeable friction, through tact, - training, and distinguished administrative ability, reinforced by just and - liberal laws—and by keeping their word to the native whenever they - give it. - </p> - <p> - England is far from India and knows little about the eminent services - performed by her servants there, for it is the newspaper correspondent who - makes fame, and he is not sent to India but to the continent, to report - the doings of the princelets and the dukelets, and where they are visiting - and whom they are marrying. Often a British official spends thirty or - forty years in India, climbing from grade to grade by services which would - make him celebrated anywhere else, and finishes as a vice-sovereign, - governing a great realm and millions of subjects; then he goes home to - England substantially unknown and unheard of, and settles down in some - modest corner, and is as one extinguished. Ten years later there is a - twenty-line obituary in the London papers, and the reader is paralyzed by - the splendors of a career which he is not sure that he had ever heard of - before. But meanwhile he has learned all about the continental princelets - and dukelets. - </p> - <p> - The average man is profoundly ignorant of countries that lie remote from - his own. When they are mentioned in his presence one or two facts and - maybe a couple of names rise like torches in his mind, lighting up an inch - or two of it and leaving the rest all dark. The mention of Egypt suggests - some Biblical facts and the Pyramids-nothing more. The mention of South - Africa suggests Kimberly and the diamonds and there an end. Formerly the - mention, to a Hindoo, of America suggested a name—George Washington—with - that his familiarity with our country was exhausted. Latterly his - familiarity with it has doubled in bulk; so that when America is mentioned - now, two torches flare up in the dark caverns of his mind and he says, - "Ah, the country of the great man Washington; and of the Holy City—Chicago." - For he knows about the Congress of Religion, and this has enabled him to - get an erroneous impression of Chicago. - </p> - <p> - When India is mentioned to the citizen of a far country it suggests Clive, - Hastings, the Mutiny, Kipling, and a number of other great events; and the - mention of Calcutta infallibly brings up the Black Hole. And so, when that - citizen finds himself in the capital of India he goes first of all to see - the Black Hole of Calcutta—and is disappointed. - </p> - <p> - The Black Hole was not preserved; it is gone, long, long ago. It is - strange. Just as it stood, it was itself a monument; a ready-made one. It - was finished, it was complete, its materials were strong and lasting, it - needed no furbishing up, no repairs; it merely needed to be let alone. It - was the first brick, the Foundation Stone, upon which was reared a mighty - Empire—the Indian Empire of Great Britain. It was the ghastly - episode of the Black Hole that maddened the British and brought Clive, - that young military marvel, raging up from Madras; it was the seed from - which sprung Plassey; and it was that extraordinary battle, whose like had - not been seen in the earth since Agincourt, that laid deep and strong the - foundations of England's colossal Indian sovereignty. - </p> - <p> - And yet within the time of men who still live, the Black Hole was torn - down and thrown away as carelessly as if its bricks were common clay, not - ingots of historic gold. There is no accounting for human beings. - </p> - <p> - The supposed site of the Black Hole is marked by an engraved plate. I saw - that; and better that than nothing. The Black Hole was a prison—a - cell is nearer the right word—eighteen feet square, the dimensions - of an ordinary bedchamber; and into this place the victorious Nabob of - Bengal packed 146 of his English prisoners. There was hardly standing room - for them; scarcely a breath of air was to be got; the time was night, the - weather sweltering hot. Before the dawn came, the captives were all dead - but twenty-three. Mr. Holwell's long account of the awful episode was - familiar to the world a hundred years ago, but one seldom sees in print - even an extract from it in our day. Among the striking things in it is - this. Mr. Holwell, perishing with thirst, kept himself alive by sucking - the perspiration from his sleeves. It gives one a vivid idea of the - situation. He presently found that while he was busy drawing life from one - of his sleeves a young English gentleman was stealing supplies from the - other one. Holwell was an unselfish man, a man of the most generous - impulses; he lived and died famous for these fine and rare qualities; yet - when he found out what was happening to that unwatched sleeve, he took the - precaution to suck that one dry first. The miseries of the Black Hole were - able to change even a nature like his. But that young gentleman was one of - the twenty-three survivors, and he said it was the stolen perspiration - that saved his life. From the middle of Mr. Holwell's narrative I will - make a brief excerpt: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Then a general prayer to Heaven, to hasten the approach of the flames - to the right and left of us, and put a period to our misery. But these - failing, they whose strength and spirits were quite exhausted laid - themselves down and expired quietly upon their fellows: others who had - yet some strength and vigor left made a last effort at the windows, and - several succeeded by leaping and scrambling over the backs and heads of - those in the first rank, and got hold of the bars, from which there was - no removing them. Many to the right and left sunk with the violent - pressure, and were soon suffocated; for now a steam arose from the - living and the dead, which affected us in all its circumstances as if we - were forcibly held with our heads over a bowl full of strong volatile - spirit of hartshorn, until suffocated; nor could the effluvia of the one - be distinguished from the other, and frequently, when I was forced by - the load upon my head and shoulders to hold my face down, I was obliged, - near as I was to the window, instantly to raise it again to avoid - suffocation. I need not, my dear friend, ask your commiseration, when I - tell you, that in this plight, from half an hour past eleven till near - two in the morning, I sustained the weight of a heavy man, with his - knees in my back, and the pressure of his whole body on my head. A Dutch - surgeon who had taken his seat upon my left shoulder, and a Topaz (a - black Christian soldier) bearing on my right; all which nothing could - have enabled me to support but the props and pressure equally sustaining - me all around. The two latter I frequently dislodged by shifting my hold - on the bars and driving my knuckles into their ribs; but my friend above - stuck fast, held immovable by two bars. - </p> - <p> - "I exerted anew my strength and fortitude; but the repeated trials and - efforts I made to dislodge the insufferable incumbrances upon me at last - quite exhausted me; and towards two o'clock, finding I must quit the - window or sink where I was, I resolved on the former, having bore, truly - for the sake of others, infinitely more for life than the best of it is - worth. In the rank close behind me was an officer of one of the ships, - whose name was Cary, and who had behaved with much bravery during the - siege (his wife, a fine woman, though country born, would not quit him, - but accompanied him into the prison, and was one who survived). This - poor wretch had been long raving for water and air; I told him I was - determined to give up life, and recommended his gaining my station. On - my quitting it he made a fruitless attempt to get my place; but the - Dutch surgeon, who sat on my shoulder, supplanted him. Poor Cary - expressed his thankfulness, and said he would give up life too; but it - was with the utmost labor we forced our way from the window (several in - the inner ranks appearing to me dead standing, unable to fall by the - throng and equal pressure around). He laid himself down to die; and his - death, I believe, was very sudden; for he was a short, full, sanguine - man. His strength was great; and, I imagine, had he not retired with me, - I should never have been able to force my way. I was at this time - sensible of no pain, and little uneasiness; I can give you no better - idea of my situation than by repeating my simile of the bowl of spirit - of hartshorn. I found a stupor coming on apace, and laid myself down by - that gallant old man, the Rev. Mr. Jervas Bellamy, who laid dead with - his son, the lieutenant, hand in hand, near the southernmost wall of the - prison. When I had lain there some little time, I still had reflection - enough to suffer some uneasiness in the thought that I should be - trampled upon, when dead, as I myself had done to others. With some - difficulty I raised myself, and gained the platform a second time, where - I presently lost all sensation; the last trace of sensibility that I - have been able to recollect after my laying down, was my sash being - uneasy about my waist, which I untied, and threw from me. Of what passed - in this interval, to the time of my resurrection from this hole of - horrors, I can give you no account." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There was plenty to see in Calcutta, but there was not plenty of time for - it. I saw the fort that Clive built; and the place where Warren Hastings - and the author of the Junius Letters fought their duel; and the great - botanical gardens; and the fashionable afternoon turnout in the Maidan; - and a grand review of the garrison in a great plain at sunrise; and a - military tournament in which great bodies of native soldiery exhibited the - perfection of their drill at all arms, a spectacular and beautiful show - occupying several nights and closing with the mimic storming of a native - fort which was as good as the reality for thrilling and accurate detail, - and better than the reality for security and comfort; we had a pleasure - excursion on the 'Hoogly' by courtesy of friends, and devoted the rest of - the time to social life and the Indian museum. One should spend a month in - the museum, an enchanted palace of Indian antiquities. Indeed, a person - might spend half a year among the beautiful and wonderful things without - exhausting their interest. - </p> - <p> - It was winter. We were of Kipling's "hosts of tourists who travel up and - down India in the cold weather showing how things ought to be managed." It - is a common expression there, "the cold weather," and the people think - there is such a thing. It is because they have lived there half a - lifetime, and their perceptions have become blunted. When a person is - accustomed to 138 in the shade, his ideas about cold weather are not - valuable. I had read, in the histories, that the June marches made between - Lucknow and Cawnpore by the British forces in the time of the Mutiny were - made in that kind of weather—138 in the shade—and had taken it - for historical embroidery. I had read it again in Serjeant-Major - Forbes-Mitchell's account of his military experiences in the Mutiny—at - least I thought I had—and in Calcutta I asked him if it was true, - and he said it was. An officer of high rank who had been in the thick of - the Mutiny said the same. As long as those men were talking about what - they knew, they were trustworthy, and I believed them; but when they said - it was now "cold weather," I saw that they had traveled outside of their - sphere of knowledge and were floundering. I believe that in India "cold - weather" is merely a conventional phrase and has come into use through the - necessity of having some way to distinguish between weather which will - melt a brass door-knob and weather which will only make it mushy. It was - observable that brass ones were in use while I was in Calcutta, showing - that it was not yet time to change to porcelain; I was told the change to - porcelain was not usually made until May. But this cold weather was too - warm for us; so we started to Darjeeling, in the Himalayas—a - twenty-four hour journey.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p523.jpg (8K)" src="images/p523.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch55" id="ch55"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are 869 different forms of lying, but only one of them has been - squarely forbidden. Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy - neighbor.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - FROM DIARY: - </p> - <p> - February 14. We left at 4:30 P.M. Until dark we moved through rich - vegetation, then changed to a boat and crossed the Ganges. - </p> - <p> - February 15. Up with the sun. A brilliant morning, and frosty. A double - suit of flannels is found necessary. The plain is perfectly level, and - seems to stretch away and away and away, dimming and softening, to the - uttermost bounds of nowhere. What a soaring, strenuous, gushing fountain - spray of delicate greenery a bunch of bamboo is! As far as the eye can - reach, these grand vegetable geysers grace the view, their spoutings - refined to steam by distance. And there are fields of bananas, with the - sunshine glancing from the varnished surface of their drooping vast - leaves. And there are frequent groves of palm; and an effective accent is - given to the landscape by isolated individuals of this picturesque family, - towering, clean-stemmed, their plumes broken and hanging ragged, Nature's - imitation of an umbrella that has been out to see what a cyclone is like - and is trying not to look disappointed. And everywhere through the soft - morning vistas we glimpse the villages, the countless villages, the myriad - villages, thatched, built of clean new matting, snuggling among grouped - palms and sheaves of bamboo; villages, villages, no end of villages, not - three hundred yards apart, and dozens and dozens of them in sight all the - time; a mighty City, hundreds of miles long, hundreds of miles broad, made - all of villages, the biggest city in the earth, and as populous as a - European kingdom. I have seen no such city as this before. And there is a - continuously repeated and replenished multitude of naked men in view on - both sides and ahead. We fly through it mile after mile, but still it is - always there, on both sides and ahead—brown-bodied, naked men and - boys, plowing in the fields. But not a woman. In these two hours I have - not seen a woman or a girl working in the fields.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p525.jpg (34K)" src="images/p525.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Those are beautiful verses, and they have remained in my memory all my - life. But if the closing lines are true, let us hope that when we come to - answer the call and deliver the land from its errors, we shall secrete - from it some of our high-civilization ways, and at the same time borrow - some of its pagan ways to enrich our high system with. We have a right to - do this. If we lift those people up, we have a right to lift ourselves up - nine or ten grades or so, at their expense. A few years ago I spent - several weeks at Tolz, in Bavaria. It is a Roman Catholic region, and not - even Benares is more deeply or pervasively or intelligently devout. In my - diary of those days I find this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "We took a long drive yesterday around about the lovely country roads. - But it was a drive whose pleasure was damaged in a couple of ways: by - the dreadful shrines and by the shameful spectacle of gray and venerable - old grandmothers toiling in the fields. The shrines were frequent along - the roads—figures of the Saviour nailed to the cross and streaming - with blood from the wounds of the nails and the thorns. - </p> - <p> - "When missionaries go from here do they find fault with the pagan idols? - I saw many women seventy and even eighty years old mowing and binding in - the fields, and pitchforking the loads into the wagons." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - I was in Austria later, and in Munich. In Munich I saw gray old women - pushing trucks up hill and down, long distances, trucks laden with barrels - of beer, incredible loads. In my Austrian diary I find this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "In the fields I often see a woman and a cow harnessed to the plow, and - a man driving. - </p> - <p> - "In the public street of Marienbad to-day, I saw an old, bent, - gray-fheaded woman, in harness with a dog, drawing a laden sled over - bare dirt roads and bare pavements; and at his ease walked the driver, - smoking his pipe, a hale fellow not thirty years old." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p526.jpg (9K)" src="images/p526.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Five or six years ago I bought an open boat, made a kind of a canvas - wagon-roof over the stern of it to shelter me from sun and rain; hired a - courier and a boatman, and made a twelve-day floating voyage down the - Rhone from Lake Bourget to Marseilles. In my diary of that trip I find - this entry. I was far down the Rhone then: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Passing St. Etienne, 2:15 P.M. On a distant ridge inland, a tall - openwork structure commandingly situated, with a statue of the Virgin - standing on it. A devout country. All down this river, wherever there is - a crag there is a statue of the Virgin on it. I believe I have seen a - hundred of them. And yet, in many respects, the peasantry seem to be - mere pagans, and destitute of any considerable degree of civilization. - </p> - <p> - " . . . . We reached a not very promising looking village about 4 - o'clock, and I concluded to tie up for the day; munching fruit and - fogging the hood with pipe-smoke had grown monotonous; I could not have - the hood furled, because the floods of rain fell unceasingly. The tavern - was on the river bank, as is the custom. It was dull there, and - melancholy—nothing to do but look out of the window into the - drenching rain, and shiver; one could do that, for it was bleak and cold - and windy, and country France furnishes no fire. Winter overcoats did - not help me much; they had to be supplemented with rugs. The raindrops - were so large and struck the river with such force that they knocked up - the water like pebble-splashes. - </p> - <p> - "With the exception of a very occasional woodenshod peasant, nobody was - abroad in this bitter weather—I mean nobody of our sex. But all - weathers are alike to the women in these continental countries. To them - and the other animals, life is serious; nothing interrupts their - slavery. Three of them were washing clothes in the river under the - window when I arrived, and they continued at it as long as there was - light to work by. One was apparently thirty; another—the mother!—above - fifty; the third—grandmother!—so old and worn and gray she - could have passed for eighty; I took her to be that old. They had no - waterproofs nor rubbers, of course; over their shoulders they wore - gunnysacks—simply conductors for rivers of water; some of the - volume reached the ground; the rest soaked in on the way. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p527.jpg (17K)" src="images/p527.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At last a vigorous fellow of thirty-five arrived, dry and comfortable, - smoking his pipe under his big umbrella in an open donkey-cart-husband, - son, and grandson of those women! He stood up in the cart, sheltering - himself, and began to superintend, issuing his orders in a masterly tone - of command, and showing temper when they were not obeyed swiftly enough. - </p> - <p> - "Without complaint or murmur the drowned women patiently carried out the - orders, lifting the immense baskets of soggy, wrung-out clothing into - the cart and stowing them to the man's satisfaction. There were six of - the great baskets, and a man of mere ordinary strength could not have - lifted any one of them. The cart being full now, the Frenchman - descended, still sheltered by his umbrella, entered the tavern, and the - women went drooping homeward, trudging in the wake of the cart, and soon - were blended with the deluge and lost to sight. - </p> - <p> - "When I went down into the public room, the Frenchman had his bottle of - wine and plate of food on a bare table black with grease, and was - 'chomping' like a horse. He had the little religious paper which is in - everybody's hands on the Rhone borders, and was enlightening himself - with the histories of French saints who used to flee to the desert in - the Middle Ages to escape the contamination of woman. For two hundred - years France has been sending missionaries to other savage lands. To - spare to the needy from poverty like hers is fine and true generosity." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - But to get back to India—where, as my favorite poem says— - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - "Every prospect pleases,<br /> And only man is vile."<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - It is because Bavaria and Austria and France have not introduced their - civilization to him yet. But Bavaria and Austria and France are on their - way. They are coming. They will rescue him; they will refine the vileness - out of him. - </p> - <p> - Some time during the forenoon, approaching the mountains, we changed from - the regular train to one composed of little canvas-sheltered cars that - skimmed along within a foot of the ground and seemed to be going fifty - miles an hour when they were really making about twenty. Each car had - seating capacity for half-a-dozen persons; and when the curtains were up - one was substantially out of doors, and could see everywhere, and get all - the breeze, and be luxuriously comfortable. It was not a pleasure - excursion in name only, but in fact. - </p> - <p> - After a while we stopped at a little wooden coop of a station just within - the curtain of the sombre jungle, a place with a deep and dense forest of - great trees and scrub and vines all about it. The royal Bengal tiger is in - great force there, and is very bold and unconventional. From this lonely - little station a message once went to the railway manager in Calcutta: - "Tiger eating station-master on front porch; telegraph instructions." - </p> - <p> - It was there that I had my first tiger hunt. I killed thirteen. We were - presently away again, and the train began to climb the mountains. In one - place seven wild elephants crossed the track, but two of them got away - before I could overtake them. The railway journey up the mountain is forty - miles, and it takes eight hours to make it. It is so wild and interesting - and exciting and enchanting that it ought to take a week. As for the - vegetation, it is a museum. The jungle seemed to contain samples of every - rare and curious tree and bush that we had ever seen or heard of. It is - from that museum, I think, that the globe must have been supplied with the - trees and vines and shrubs that it holds precious. - </p> - <p> - The road is infinitely and charmingly crooked. It goes winding in and out - under lofty cliffs that are smothered in vines and foliage, and around the - edges of bottomless chasms; and all the way one glides by files of - picturesque natives, some carrying burdens up, others going down from - their work in the tea-gardens; and once there was a gaudy wedding - procession, all bright tinsel and color, and a bride, comely and girlish, - who peeped out from the curtains of her palanquin, exposing her face with - that pure delight which the young and happy take in sin for sin's own - sake. - </p> - <p> - By and by we were well up in the region of the clouds, and from that - breezy height we looked down and afar over a wonderful picture—the - Plains of India, stretching to the horizon, soft and fair, level as a - floor, shimmering with heat, mottled with cloud-shadows, and cloven with - shining rivers. Immediately below us, and receding down, down, down, - toward the valley, was a shaven confusion of hilltops, with ribbony roads - and paths squirming and snaking cream-yellow all over them and about them, - every curve and twist sharply distinct. - </p> - <p> - At an elevation of 6,000 feet we entered a thick cloud, and it shut out - the world and kept it shut out. We climbed 1,000 feet higher, then began - to descend, and presently got down to Darjeeling, which is 6,000 feet - above the level of the Plains. - </p> - <p> - We had passed many a mountain village on the way up, and seen some new - kinds of natives, among them many samples of the fighting Ghurkas. They - are not large men, but they are strong and resolute. There are no better - soldiers among Britain's native troops. And we had passed shoals of their - women climbing the forty miles of steep road from the valley to their - mountain homes, with tall baskets on their backs hitched to their - foreheads by a band, and containing a freightage weighing—I will not - say how many hundreds of pounds, for the sum is unbelievable. These were - young women, and they strode smartly along under these astonishing burdens - with the air of people out for a holiday. I was told that a woman will - carry a piano on her back all the way up the mountain; and that more than - once a woman had done it. If these were old women I should regard the - Ghurkas as no more civilized than the Europeans. At the railway station at - Darjeeling you find plenty of cab-substitutes—open coffins, in which - you sit, and are then borne on men's shoulders up the steep roads into the - town.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p531.jpg (53K)" src="images/p531.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Up there we found a fairly comfortable hotel, the property of an - indiscriminate and incoherent landlord, who looks after nothing, but - leaves everything to his army of Indian servants. No, he does look after - the bill—to be just to him—and the tourist cannot do better - than follow his example. I was told by a resident that the summit of - Kinchinjunga is often hidden in the clouds, and that sometimes a tourist - has waited twenty-two days and then been obliged to go away without a - sight of it. And yet went not disappointed; for when he got his hotel bill - he recognized that he was now seeing the highest thing in the Himalayas. - But this is probably a lie. - </p> - <p> - After lecturing I went to the Club that night, and that was a comfortable - place. It is loftily situated, and looks out over a vast spread of - scenery; from it you can see where the boundaries of three countries come - together, some thirty miles away; Thibet is one of them, Nepaul another, - and I think Herzegovina was the other. Apparently, in every town and city - in India the gentlemen of the British civil and military service have a - club; sometimes it is a palatial one, always it is pleasant and homelike. - The hotels are not always as good as they might be, and the stranger who - has access to the Club is grateful for his privilege and knows how to - value it. - </p> - <p> - Next day was Sunday. Friends came in the gray dawn with horses, and my - party rode away to a distant point where Kinchinjunga and Mount Everest - show up best, but I stayed at home for a private view; for it was very - cold, and I was not acquainted with the horses, any way. I got a pipe and - a few blankets and sat for two hours at the window, and saw the sun drive - away the veiling gray and touch up the snow-peaks one after another with - pale pink splashes and delicate washes of gold, and finally flood the - whole mighty convulsion of snow-mountains with a deluge of rich splendors. - </p> - <p> - Kinchinjunga's peak was but fitfully visible, but in the between times it - was vividly clear against the sky—away up there in the blue dome - more than 28,000 feet above sea level—the loftiest land I had ever - seen, by 12,000 feet or more. It was 45 miles away. Mount Everest is a - thousand feet higher, but it was not a part of that sea of mountains piled - up there before me, so I did not see it; but I did not care, because I - think that mountains that are as high as that are disagreeable.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p533.jpg (55K)" src="images/p533.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I changed from the back to the front of the house and spent the rest of - the morning there, watching the swarthy strange tribes flock by from their - far homes in the Himalayas. All ages and both sexes were represented, and - the breeds were quite new to me, though the costumes of the Thibetans made - them look a good deal like Chinamen. The prayer-wheel was a frequent - feature. It brought me near to these people, and made them seem kinfolk of - mine. Through our preacher we do much of our praying by proxy. We do not - whirl him around a stick, as they do, but that is merely a detail.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p534.jpg (11K)" src="images/p534.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The swarm swung briskly by, hour after hour, a strange and striking - pageant. It was wasted there, and it seemed a pity. It should have been - sent streaming through the cities of Europe or America, to refresh eyes - weary of the pale monotonies of the circus-pageant. These people were - bound for the bazar, with things to sell. We went down there, later, and - saw that novel congress of the wild peoples, and plowed here and there - through it, and concluded that it would be worth coming from Calcutta to - see, even if there were no Kinchinjunga and Everest.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch56" id="ch56"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are two times in a man's life when he should not speculate: when - he can't afford it, and when he can.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - On Monday and Tuesday at sunrise we again had fair-to-middling views of - the stupendous mountains; then, being well cooled off and refreshed, we - were ready to chance the weather of the lower world once more. - </p> - <p> - We traveled up hill by the regular train five miles to the summit, then - changed to a little canvas-canopied hand-car for the 35-mile descent. It - was the size of a sleigh, it had six seats and was so low that it seemed - to rest on the ground. It had no engine or other propelling power, and - needed none to help it fly down those steep inclines. It only needed a - strong brake, to modify its flight, and it had that. There was a story of - a disastrous trip made down the mountain once in this little car by the - Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, when the car jumped the track and threw its - passengers over a precipice. It was not true, but the story had value for - me, for it made me nervous, and nervousness wakes a person up and makes - him alive and alert, and heightens the thrill of a new and doubtful - experience. The car could really jump the track, of course; a pebble on - the track, placed there by either accident or malice, at a sharp curve - where one might strike it before the eye could discover it, could derail - the car and fling it down into India; and the fact that the - lieutenant-governor had escaped was no proof that I would have the same - luck. And standing there, looking down upon the Indian Empire from the - airy altitude of 7,000 feet, it seemed unpleasantly far, dangerously far, - to be flung from a handcar. - </p> - <p> - But after all, there was but small danger—for me. What there was, - was for Mr. Pugh, inspector of a division of the Indian police, in whose - company and protection we had come from Calcutta. He had seen long service - as an artillery officer, was less nervous than I was, and so he was to go - ahead of us in a pilot hand-car, with a Ghurka and another native; and the - plan was that when we should see his car jump over a precipice we must put - on our (break) and send for another pilot. It was a good arrangement. Also - Mr. Barnard, chief engineer of the mountain-division of the road, was to - take personal charge of our car, and he had been down the mountain in it - many a time. - </p> - <p> - Everything looked safe. Indeed, there was but one questionable detail - left: the regular train was to follow us as soon as we should start, and - it might run over us. Privately, I thought it would.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p537.jpg (49K)" src="images/p537.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The road fell sharply down in front of us and went corkscrewing in and out - around the crags and precipices, down, down, forever down, suggesting - nothing so exactly or so uncomfortably as a crooked toboggan slide with no - end to it. Mr. Pugh waved his flag and started, like an arrow from a bow, - and before I could get out of the car we were gone too. I had previously - had but one sensation like the shock of that departure, and that was the - gaspy shock that took my breath away the first time that I was discharged - from the summit of a toboggan slide. But in both instances the sensation - was pleasurable—intensely so; it was a sudden and immense - exaltation, a mixed ecstasy of deadly fright and unimaginable joy. I - believe that this combination makes the perfection of human delight. - </p> - <p> - The pilot car's flight down the mountain suggested the swoop of a swallow - that is skimming the ground, so swiftly and smoothly and gracefully it - swept down the long straight reaches and soared in and out of the bends - and around the corners. We raced after it, and seemed to flash by the - capes and crags with the speed of light; and now and then we almost - overtook it—and had hopes; but it was only playing with us; when we - got near, it released its brake, made a spring around a corner, and the - next time it spun into view, a few seconds later, it looked as small as a - wheelbarrow, it was so far away. We played with the train in the same way. - We often got out to gather flowers or sit on a precipice and look at the - scenery, then presently we would hear a dull and growing roar, and the - long coils of the train would come into sight behind and above us; but we - did not need to start till the locomotive was close down upon us—then - we soon left it far behind. It had to stop at every station, therefore it - was not an embarrassment to us. Our brake was a good piece of machinery; - it could bring the car to a standstill on a slope as steep as a - house-roof. - </p> - <p> - The scenery was grand and varied and beautiful, and there was no hurry; we - could always stop and examine it. There was abundance of time. We did not - need to hamper the train; if it wanted the road, we could switch off and - let it go by, then overtake it and pass it later. We stopped at one place - to see the Gladstone Cliff, a great crag which the ages and the weather - have sculptured into a recognizable portrait of the venerable statesman. - Mr. Gladstone is a stockholder in the road, and Nature began this portrait - ten thousand years ago, with the idea of having the compliment ready in - time for the event. - </p> - <p> - We saw a banyan tree which sent down supporting stems from branches which - were sixty feet above the ground. That is, I suppose it was a banyan; its - bark resembled that of the great banyan in the botanical gardens at - Calcutta, that spider-legged thing with its wilderness of vegetable - columns. And there were frequent glimpses of a totally leafless tree upon - whose innumerable twigs and branches a cloud of crimson butterflies had - lighted—apparently. In fact these brilliant red butterflies were - flowers, but the illusion was good. Afterward in South Africa, I saw - another splendid effect made by red flowers. This flower was probably - called the torch-plant—should have been so named, anyway. It had a - slender stem several feet high, and from its top stood up a single tongue - of flame, an intensely red flower of the size and shape of a small - corn-cob. The stems stood three or four feet apart all over a great - hill-slope that was a mile long, and make one think of what the Place de - la Concorde would be if its myriad lights were red instead of white and - yellow. - </p> - <p> - A few miles down the mountain we stopped half an hour to see a Thibetan - dramatic performance. It was in the open air on the hillside. The audience - was composed of Thibetans, Ghurkas, and other unusual people. The costumes - of the actors were in the last degree outlandish, and the performance was - in keeping with the clothes. To an accompaniment of barbarous noises the - actors stepped out one after another and began to spin around with immense - swiftness and vigor and violence, chanting the while, and soon the whole - troupe would be spinning and chanting and raising the dust. They were - performing an ancient and celebrated historical play, and a Chinaman - explained it to me in pidjin English as it went along. The play was - obscure enough without the explanation; with the explanation added, it was - (opake). As a drama this ancient historical work of art was defective, I - thought, but as a wild and barbarous spectacle the representation was - beyond criticism. Far down the mountain we got out to look at a piece of - remarkable loop-engineering—a spiral where the road curves upon - itself with such abruptness that when the regular train came down and - entered the loop, we stood over it and saw the locomotive disappear under - our bridge, then in a few moments appear again, chasing its own tail; and - we saw it gain on it, overtake it, draw ahead past the rear cars, and run - a race with that end of the train. It was like a snake swallowing itself.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p541.jpg (64K)" src="images/p541.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Half-way down the mountain we stopped about an hour at Mr. Barnard's house - for refreshments, and while we were sitting on the veranda looking at the - distant panorama of hills through a gap in the forest, we came very near - seeing a leopard kill a calf.—[It killed it the day before.]—It - is a wild place and lovely. From the woods all about came the songs of - birds,—among them the contributions of a couple of birds which I was - not then acquainted with: the brain-fever bird and the coppersmith. The - song of the brain-fever demon starts on a low but steadily rising key, and - is a spiral twist which augments in intensity and severity with each added - spiral, growing sharper and sharper, and more and more painful, more and - more agonizing, more and more maddening, intolerable, unendurable, as it - bores deeper and deeper and deeper into the listener's brain, until at - last the brain fever comes as a relief and the man dies. I am bringing - some of these birds home to America. They will be a great curiosity there, - and it is believed that in our climate they will multiply like rabbits. - </p> - <p> - The coppersmith bird's note at a certain distance away has the ring of a - sledge on granite; at a certain other distance the hammering has a more - metallic ring, and you might think that the bird was mending a copper - kettle; at another distance it has a more woodeny thump, but it is a thump - that is full of energy, and sounds just like starting a bung. So he is a - hard bird to name with a single name; he is a stone-breaker, coppersmith, - and bung-starter, and even then he is not completely named, for when he is - close by you find that there is a soft, deep, melodious quality in his - thump, and for that no satisfying name occurs to you. You will not mind - his other notes, but when he camps near enough for you to hear that one, - you presently find that his measured and monotonous repetition of it is - beginning to disturb you; next it will weary you, soon it will distress - you, and before long each thump will hurt your head; if this goes on, you - will lose your mind with the pain and misery of it, and go crazy. I am - bringing some of these birds home to America. There is nothing like them - there. They will be a great surprise, and it is said that in a climate - like ours they will surpass expectation for fecundity. - </p> - <p> - I am bringing some nightingales, too, and some cue-owls. I got them in - Italy. The song of the nightingale is the deadliest known to ornithology. - That demoniacal shriek can kill at thirty yards. The note of the cue-owl - is infinitely soft and sweet—soft and sweet as the whisper of a - flute. But penetrating—oh, beyond belief; it can bore through - boiler-iron. It is a lingering note, and comes in triplets, on the one - unchanging key: hoo-o-o, hoo-o-o, hoo-o-o; then a silence of fifteen - seconds, then the triplet again; and so on, all night. At first it is - divine; then less so; then trying; then distressing; then excruciating; - then agonizing, and at the end of two hours the listener is a maniac. - </p> - <p> - And so, presently we took to the hand-car and went flying down the - mountain again; flying and stopping, flying and stopping, till at last we - were in the plain once more and stowed for Calcutta in the regular train. - That was the most enjoyable day I have spent in the earth. For rousing, - tingling, rapturous pleasure there is no holiday trip that approaches the - bird-flight down the Himalayas in a hand-car. It has no fault, no blemish, - no lack, except that there are only thirty-five miles of it instead of - five hundred.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch57" id="ch57"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>She was not quite what you would call refined. She was not quite what - you would call unrefined. She was the kind of person that keeps a parrot.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - So far as I am able to judge, nothing has been left undone, either by man - or Nature, to make India the most extraordinary country that the sun - visits on his round. Nothing seems to have been forgotten, nothing over - looked. Always, when you think you have come to the end of her tremendous - specialties and have finished hanging tags upon her as the Land of the - Thug, the Land of the Plague, the Land of Famine, the Land of Giant - Illusions, the Land of Stupendous Mountains, and so forth, another - specialty crops up and another tag is required. I have been overlooking - the fact that India is by an unapproachable supremacy—the Land of - Murderous Wild Creatures. Perhaps it will be simplest to throw away the - tags and generalize her with one all-comprehensive name, as the Land of - Wonders. - </p> - <p> - For many years the British Indian Government has been trying to destroy - the murderous wild creatures, and has spent a great deal of money in the - effort. The annual official returns show that the undertaking is a - difficult one. - </p> - <p> - These returns exhibit a curious annual uniformity in results; the sort of - uniformity which you find in the annual output of suicides in the world's - capitals, and the proportions of deaths by this, that, and the other - disease. You can always come close to foretelling how many suicides will - occur in Paris, London, and New York, next year, and also how many deaths - will result from cancer, consumption, dog-bite, falling out of the window, - getting run over by cabs, etc., if you know the statistics of those - matters for the present year. In the same way, with one year's Indian - statistics before you, you can guess closely at how many people were - killed in that Empire by tigers during the previous year, and the year - before that, and the year before that, and at how many were killed in each - of those years by bears, how many by wolves, and how many by snakes; and - you can also guess closely at how many people are going to be killed each - year for the coming five years by each of those agencies. You can also - guess closely at how many of each agency the government is going to kill - each year for the next five years. - </p> - <p> - I have before me statistics covering a period of six consecutive years. By - these, I know that in India the tiger kills something over 800 persons - every year, and that the government responds by killing about double as - many tigers every year. In four of the six years referred to, the tiger - got 800 odd; in one of the remaining two years he got only 700, but in the - other remaining year he made his average good by scoring 917. He is always - sure of his average. Anyone who bets that the tiger will kill 2,400 people - in India in any three consecutive years has invested his money in a - certainty; anyone who bets that he will kill 2,600 in any three - consecutive years, is absolutely sure to lose. - </p> - <p> - As strikingly uniform as are the statistics of suicide, they are not any - more so than are those of the tiger's annual output of slaughtered human - beings in India. The government's work is quite uniform, too; it about - doubles the tiger's average. In six years the tiger killed 5,000 persons, - minus 50; in the same six years 10,000 tigers were killed, minus 400. - </p> - <p> - The wolf kills nearly as many people as the tiger—700 a year to the - tiger's 800 odd—but while he is doing it, more than 5,000 of his - tribe fall. - </p> - <p> - The leopard kills an average of 230 people per year, but loses 3,300 of - his own mess while he is doing it. - </p> - <p> - The bear kills 100 people per year at a cost of 1,250 of his own tribe. - </p> - <p> - The tiger, as the figures show, makes a very handsome fight against man. - But it is nothing to the elephant's fight. The king of beasts, the lord of - the jungle, loses four of his mess per year, but he kills forty—five - persons to make up for it. - </p> - <p> - But when it comes to killing cattle, the lord of the jungle is not - interested. He kills but 100 in six years—horses of hunters, no - doubt—but in the same six the tiger kills more than 84,000, the - leopard 100,000, the bear 4,000, the wolf 70,000, the hyena more than - 13,000, other wild beasts 27,000, and the snakes 19,000, a grand total of - more than 300,000; an average of 50,000 head per year. - </p> - <p> - In response, the government kills, in the six years, a total of 3,201,232 - wild beasts and snakes. Ten for one. - </p> - <p> - It will be perceived that the snakes are not much interested in cattle; - they kill only 3,000 odd per year. The snakes are much more interested in - man. India swarms with deadly snakes. At the head of the list is the - cobra, the deadliest known to the world, a snake whose bite kills where - the rattlesnake's bite merely entertains. - </p> - <p> - In India, the annual man-killings by snakes are as uniform, as regular, - and as forecastable as are the tiger-average and the suicide-average. - Anyone who bets that in India, in any three consecutive years the snakes - will kill 49,500 persons, will win his bet; and anyone who bets that in - India in any three consecutive years, the snakes will kill 53,500 persons, - will lose his bet. In India the snakes kill 17,000 people a year; they - hardly ever fall short of it; they as seldom exceed it. An insurance - actuary could take the Indian census tables and the government's snake - tables and tell you within sixpence how much it would be worth to insure a - man against death by snake-bite there. If I had a dollar for every person - killed per year in India, I would rather have it than any other property, - as it is the only property in the world not subject to shrinkage. - </p> - <p> - I should like to have a royalty on the government-end of the snake - business, too, and am in London now trying to get it; but when I get it it - is not going to be as regular an income as the other will be if I get - that; I have applied for it. The snakes transact their end of the business - in a more orderly and systematic way than the government transacts its end - of it, because the snakes have had a long experience and know all about - the traffic. You can make sure that the government will never kill fewer - than 110,000 snakes in a year, and that it will newer quite reach 300,000—too - much room for oscillation; good speculative stock, to bear or bull, and - buy and sell long and short, and all that kind of thing, but not eligible - for investment like the other. The man that speculates in the government's - snake crop wants to go carefully. I would not advise a man to buy a single - crop at all—I mean a crop of futures for the possible wobble is - something quite extraordinary. If he can buy six future crops in a bunch, - seller to deliver 1,500,000 altogether, that is another matter. I do not - know what snakes are worth now, but I know what they would be worth then, - for the statistics show that the seller could not come within 427,000 of - carrying out his contract. However, I think that a person who speculates - in snakes is a fool, anyway. He always regrets it afterwards. - </p> - <p> - To finish the statistics. In six years the wild beasts kill 20,000 - persons, and the snakes kill 103,000. In the same six the government kills - 1,073,546 snakes. Plenty left. - </p> - <p> - There are narrow escapes in India. In the very jungle where I killed - sixteen tigers and all those elephants, a cobra bit me but it got well; - everyone was surprised. This could not happen twice in ten years, perhaps. - Usually death would result in fifteen minutes. - </p> - <p> - We struck out westward or northwestward from Calcutta on an itinerary of a - zig-zag sort, which would in the course of time carry us across India to - its northwestern corner and the border of Afghanistan. The first part of - the trip carried us through a great region which was an endless garden—miles - and miles of the beautiful flower from whose juices comes the opium, and - at Muzaffurpore we were in the midst of the indigo culture; thence by a - branch road to the Ganges at a point near Dinapore, and by a train which - would have missed the connection by a week but for the thoughtfulness of - some British officers who were along, and who knew the ways of trains that - are run by natives without white supervision. This train stopped at every - village; for no purpose connected with business, apparently. We put out - nothing, we took nothing aboard. The train bands stepped ashore and - gossiped with friends a quarter of an hour, then pulled out and repeated - this at the succeeding villages. We had thirty-five miles to go and six - hours to do it in, but it was plain that we were not going to make it. It - was then that the English officers said it was now necessary to turn this - gravel train into an express. So they gave the engine-driver a rupee and - told him to fly. It was a simple remedy. After that we made ninety miles - an hour. We crossed the Ganges just at dawn, made our connection, and went - to Benares, where we stayed twenty-four hours and inspected that strange - and fascinating piety-hive again; then left for Lucknow, a city which is - perhaps the most conspicuous of the many monuments of British fortitude - and valor that are scattered about the earth. - </p> - <p> - The heat was pitiless, the flat plains were destitute of grass, and baked - dry by the sun they were the color of pale dust, which was flying in - clouds. But it was much hotter than this when the relieving forces marched - to Lucknow in the time of the Mutiny. Those were the days of 138 deg. in - the shade.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch58" id="ch58"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Make it a point to do something every day that you don't want to do. - This is the golden rule for acquiring the habit of doing your duty without - pain.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - It seems to be settled, now, that among the many causes from which the - Great Mutiny sprang, the main one was the annexation of the kingdom of - Oudh by the East India Company—characterized by Sir Henry Lawrence - as "the most unrighteous act that was ever committed." In the spring of - 1857, a mutinous spirit was observable in many of the native garrisons, - and it grew day by day and spread wider and wider. The younger military - men saw something very serious in it, and would have liked to take hold of - it vigorously and stamp it out promptly; but they were not in authority. - Old men were in the high places of the army—men who should have been - retired long before, because of their great age—and they regarded - the matter as a thing of no consequence. They loved their native soldiers, - and would not believe that anything could move them to revolt. Everywhere - these obstinate veterans listened serenely to the rumbling of the - volcanoes under them, and said it was nothing. - </p> - <p> - And so the propagators of mutiny had everything their own way. They moved - from camp to camp undisturbed, and painted to the native soldier the - wrongs his people were suffering at the hands of the English, and made his - heart burn for revenge. They were able to point to two facts of formidable - value as backers of their persuasions: In Clive's day, native armies were - incoherent mobs, and without effective arms; therefore, they were weak - against Clive's organized handful of well-armed men, but the thing was the - other way, now. The British forces were native; they had been trained by - the British, organized by the British, armed by the British, all the power - was in their hands—they were a club made by British hands to beat - out British brains with. There was nothing to oppose their mass, nothing - but a few weak battalions of British soldiers scattered about India, a - force not worth speaking of. This argument, taken alone, might not have - succeeded, for the bravest and best Indian troops had a wholesome dread of - the white soldier, whether he was weak or strong; but the agitators backed - it with their second and best point— prophecy—a prophecy a - hundred years old. The Indian is open to prophecy at all times; argument - may fail to convince him, but not prophecy. There was a prophecy that a - hundred years from the year of that battle of Clive's which founded the - British Indian Empire, the British power would be overthrown and swept - away by the natives. - </p> - <p> - The Mutiny broke out at Meerut on the 10th of May, 1857, and fired a train - of tremendous historical explosions. Nana Sahib's massacre of the - surrendered garrison of Cawnpore occurred in June, and the long siege of - Lucknow began. The military history of England is old and great, but I - think it must be granted that the crushing of the Mutiny is the greatest - chapter in it. The British were caught asleep and unprepared. They were a - few thousands, swallowed up in an ocean of hostile populations. It would - take months to inform England and get help, but they did not falter or - stop to count the odds, but with English resolution and English devotion - they took up their task, and went stubbornly on with it, through good - fortune and bad, and fought the most unpromising fight that one may read - of in fiction or out of it, and won it thoroughly. - </p> - <p> - The Mutiny broke out so suddenly, and spread with such rapidity that there - was but little time for occupants of weak outlying stations to escape to - places of safety. Attempts were made, of course, but they were attended by - hardships as bitter as death in the few cases which were successful; for - the heat ranged between 120 and 138 in the shade; the way led through - hostile peoples, and food and water were hardly to be had. For ladies and - children accustomed to ease and comfort and plenty, such a journey must - have been a cruel experience. Sir G. O. Trevelyan quotes an example: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "This is what befell Mrs. M——, the wife of the surgeon at a - certain station on the southern confines of the insurrection. 'I heard,' - she says, 'a number of shots fired, and, looking out, I saw my husband - driving furiously from the mess-house, waving his whip. I ran to him, - and, seeing a bearer with my child in his arms, I caught her up, and got - into the buggy. At the mess-house we found all the officers assembled, - together with sixty sepoys, who had remained faithful. We went off in - one large party, amidst a general conflagration of our late homes. We - reached the caravanserai at Chattapore the next morning, and thence - started for Callinger. At this point our sepoy escort deserted us. We - were fired upon by match-lockmen, and one officer was shot dead. We - heard, likewise, that the people had risen at Callinger, so we returned - and walked back ten miles that day. M—— and I carried the - child alternately. Presently Mrs. Smalley died of sunstroke. We had no - food amongst us. An officer kindly lent us a horse. We were very faint. - The Major died, and was buried; also the Sergeant-major and some women. - The bandsmen left us on the nineteenth of June. We were fired at again - by match-lockmen, and changed direction for Allahabad. Our party - consisted of nine gentlemen, two children, the sergeant and his wife. On - the morning of the twentieth, Captain Scott took Lottie on to his horse. - I was riding behind my husband, and she was so crushed between us. She - was two years old on the first of the month. We were both weak through - want of food and the effect of the sun. Lottie and I had no head - covering. M—— had a sepoy's cap I found on the ground. Soon - after sunrise we were followed by villagers armed with clubs and spears. - One of them struck Captain Scott's horse on the leg. He galloped off - with Lottie, and my poor husband never saw his child again. We rode on - several miles, keeping away from villages, and then crossed the river. - Our thirst was extreme. M—— had dreadful cramps, so that I - had to hold him on the horse. I was very uneasy about him. The day - before I saw the drummer's wife eating chupatties, and asked her to give - a piece to the child, which she did. I now saw water in a ravine. The - descent was steep, and our only drinking-vessel was M——'s - cap. Our horse got water, and I bathed my neck. I had no stockings, and - my feet were torn and blistered. Two peasants came in sight, and we were - frightened and rode off. The sergeant held our horse, and M—— - put me up and mounted. I think he must have got suddenly faint, for I - fell and he over me, on the road, when the horse started off. Some time - before he said, and Barber, too, that he could not live many hours. I - felt he was dying before we came to the ravine. He told me his wishes - about his children and myself, and took leave. My brain seemed burnt up. - No tears came. As soon as we fell, the sergeant let go the horse, and it - went off; so that escape was cut off. We sat down on the ground waiting - for death. Poor fellow! he was very weak; his thirst was frightful, and - I went to get him water. Some villagers came, and took my rupees and - watch. I took off my wedding-ring, and twisted it in my hair, and - replaced the guard. I tore off the skirt of my dress to bring water in, - but was no use, for when I returned my beloved's eyes were fixed, and, - though I called and tried to restore him, and poured water into his - mouth, it only rattled in his throat. He never spoke to me again. I held - him in my arms till he sank gradually down. I felt frantic, but could - not cry. I was alone. I bound his head and face in my dress, for there - was no earth to bury him. The pain in my hands and feet was dreadful. I - went down to the ravine, and sat in the water on a stone, hoping to get - off at night and look for Lottie. When I came back from the water, I saw - that they had not taken her little watch, chain, and seals, so I tied - them under my petticoat. In an hour, about thirty villagers came, they - dragged me out of the ravine, and took off my jacket, and found the - little chain. They then dragged me to a village, mocking me all the way, - and disputing as to whom I was to belong to. The whole population came - to look at me. I asked for a bedstead, and lay down outside the door of - a hut. They had a dozen of cows, and yet refused me milk. When night - came, and the village was quiet, some old woman brought me a leafful of - rice. I was too parched to eat, and they gave me water. The morning - after a neighboring Rajah sent a palanquin and a horseman to fetch me, - who told me that a little child and three Sahibs had come to his - master's house. And so the poor mother found her lost one, 'greatly - blistered,' poor little creature. It is not for Europeans in India to - pray that their flight be not in the winter." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - In the first days of June the aged general, Sir Hugh Wheeler commanding - the forces at Cawnpore, was deserted by his native troops; then he moved - out of the fort and into an exposed patch of open flat ground and built a - four-foot mud wall around it. He had with him a few hundred white soldiers - and officers, and apparently more women and children than soldiers. He was - short of provisions, short of arms, short of ammunition, short of military - wisdom, short of everything but courage and devotion to duty. The defense - of that open lot through twenty-one days and nights of hunger, thirst, - Indian heat, and a never-ceasing storm of bullets, bombs, and cannon-balls—a - defense conducted, not by the aged and infirm general, but by a young - officer named Moore—is one of the most heroic episodes in history. - When at last the Nana found it impossible to conquer these starving men - and women with powder and ball, he resorted to treachery, and that - succeeded. He agreed to supply them with food and send them to Allahabad - in boats. Their mud wall and their barracks were in ruins, their - provisions were at the point of exhaustion, they had done all that the - brave could do, they had conquered an honorable compromise,—their - forces had been fearfully reduced by casualties and by disease, they were - not able to continue the contest longer. They came forth helpless but - suspecting no treachery, the Nana's host closed around them, and at a - signal from a trumpet the massacre began. About two hundred women and - children were spared—for the present—but all the men except - three or four were killed. Among the incidents of the massacre quoted by - Sir G. O. Trevelyan, is this: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "When, after the lapse of some twenty minutes, the dead began to - outnumber the living;—when the fire slackened, as the marks grew - few and far between; then the troopers who had been drawn up to the - right of the temple plunged into the river, sabre between teeth, and - pistol in hand. Thereupon two half-caste Christian women, the wives of - musicians in the band of the Fifty-sixth, witnessed a scene which should - not be related at second-hand. 'In the boat where I was to have gone,' - says Mrs. Bradshaw, confirmed throughout by Mrs. Setts, 'was the - school-mistress and twenty-two misses. General Wheeler came last in a - palkee. They carried him into the water near the boat. I stood close by. - He said, 'Carry me a little further towards the boat.' But a trooper - said, 'No, get out here.' As the General got out of the palkee, - head-foremost, the trooper gave him a cut with his sword into the neck, - and he fell into the water. My son was killed near him. I saw it; alas! - alas! Some were stabbed with bayonets; others cut down. Little infants - were torn in pieces. We saw it; we did; and tell you only what we saw. - Other children were stabbed and thrown into the river. The schoolgirls - were burnt to death. I saw their clothes and hair catch fire. In the - water, a few paces off, by the next boat, we saw the youngest daughter - of Colonel Williams. A sepoy was going to kill her with his bayonet. She - said, 'My father was always kind to sepoys.' He turned away, and just - then a villager struck her on the head with a club, and she fell into - the water. These people likewise saw good Mr. Moncrieff, the clergyman, - take a book from his pocket that he never had leisure to open, and heard - him commence a prayer for mercy which he was not permitted to conclude. - Another deponent observed an European making for a drain like a scared - water-rat, when some boatmen, armed with cudgels, cut off his retreat, - and beat him down dead into the mud." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The women and children who had been reserved from the massacre were - imprisoned during a fortnight in a small building, one story high—a - cramped place, a slightly modified Black Hole of Calcutta. They were - waiting in suspense; there was none who could forecaste their fate. - Meantime the news of the massacre had traveled far and an army of rescuers - with Havelock at its head was on its way—at least an army which - hoped to be rescuers. It was crossing the country by forced marches, and - strewing its way with its own dead—men struck down by cholera, and - by a heat which reached 135 deg. It was in a vengeful fury, and it stopped - for nothing—neither heat, nor fatigue, nor disease, nor human - opposition. It tore its impetuous way through hostile forces, winning - victory after victory, but still striding on and on, not halting to count - results. And at last, after this extraordinary march, it arrived before - the walls of Cawnpore, met the Nana's massed strength, delivered a - crushing defeat, and entered. - </p> - <p> - But too late—only a few hours too late. For at the last moment the - Nana had decided upon the massacre of the captive women and children, and - had commissioned three Mohammedans and two Hindoos to do the work. Sir G. - O. Trevelyan says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Thereupon the five men entered. It was the short gloaming of Hindostan—the - hour when ladies take their evening drive. She who had accosted the - officer was standing in the doorway. With her were the native doctor and - two Hindoo menials. That much of the business might be seen from the - veranda, but all else was concealed amidst the interior gloom. Shrieks - and scuffling acquainted those without that the journeymen were earning - their hire. Survur Khan soon emerged with his sword broken off at the - hilt. He procured another from the Nana's house, and a few minutes after - appeared again on the same errand. The third blade was of better temper; - or perhaps the thick of the work was already over. By the time darkness - had closed in, the men came forth and locked up the house for the night. - Then the screams ceased, but the groans lasted till morning. - </p> - <p> - "The sun rose as usual. When he had been up nearly three hours the five - repaired to the scene of their labors over night. They were attended by - a few sweepers, who proceeded to transfer the contents of the house to a - dry well situated behind some trees which grew hard by. 'The bodies,' - says one who was present throughout, 'were dragged out, most of them by - the hair of the head. Those who had clothing worth taking were stripped. - Some of the women were alive. I cannot say how many; but three could - speak. They prayed for the sake of God that an end might be put to their - sufferings. I remarked one very stout woman, a half-caste, who was - severely wounded in both arms, who entreated to be killed. She and two - or three others were placed against the bank of the cut by which - bullocks go down in drawing water. The dead were first thrown in. Yes: - there was a great crowd looking on; they were standing along the walls - of the compound. They were principally city people and villagers. Yes: - there were also sepoys. Three boys were alive. They were fair children. - The eldest, I think, must have been six or seven, and the youngest five - years. They were running around the well (where else could they go to?), - and there was none to save them. No one said a word or tried to save - them.' - </p> - <p> - "At length the smallest of them made an infantile attempt to get away. - The little thing had been frightened past bearing by the murder of one - of the surviving ladies. He thus attracted the observation of a native - who flung him and his companions down the well." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The soldiers had made a march of eighteen days, almost without rest, to - save the women and the children, and now they were too late—all were - dead and the assassin had flown. What happened then, Trevelyan hesitated - to put into words. "Of what took place, the less said is the better." - </p> - <p> - Then he continues: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "But there was a spectacle to witness which might excuse much. Those - who, straight from the contested field, wandered sobbing through the - rooms of the ladies' house, saw what it were well could the outraged - earth have straightway hidden. The inner apartment was ankle-deep in - blood. The plaster was scored with sword-cuts; not high up as where men - have fought, but low down, and about the corners, as if a creature had - crouched to avoid the blow. Strips of dresses, vainly tied around the - handles of the doors, signified the contrivance to which feminine - despair had resorted as a means of keeping out the murderers. Broken - combs were there, and the frills of children's trousers, and torn cuffs - and pinafores, and little round hats, and one or two shoes with burst - latchets, and one or two daguerreotype cases with cracked glasses. An - officer picked up a few curls, preserved in a bit of cardboard, and - marked 'Ned's hair, with love'; but around were strewn locks, some near - a yard in length, dissevered, not as a keepsake, by quite other - scissors." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The battle of Waterloo was fought on the 18th of June, 1815. I do not - state this fact as a reminder to the reader, but as news to him. For a - forgotten fact is news when it comes again. Writers of books have the - fashion of whizzing by vast and renowned historical events with the - remark, "The details of this tremendous episode are too familiar to the - reader to need repeating here." They know that that is not true. It is a - low kind of flattery. They know that the reader has forgotten every detail - of it, and that nothing of the tremendous event is left in his mind but a - vague and formless luminous smudge. Aside from the desire to flatter the - reader, they have another reason for making the remark-two reasons, - indeed. They do not remember the details themselves, and do not want the - trouble of hunting them up and copying them out; also, they are afraid - that if they search them out and print them they will be scoffed at by the - book-reviewers for retelling those worn old things which are familiar to - everybody. They should not mind the reviewer's jeer; he doesn't remember - any of the worn old things until the book which he is reviewing has retold - them to him. - </p> - <p> - I have made the quoted remark myself, at one time and another, but I was - not doing it to flatter the reader; I was merely doing it to save work. If - I had known the details without brushing up, I would have put them in; but - I didn't, and I did not want the labor of posting myself; so I said, "The - details of this tremendous episode are too familiar to the reader to need - repeating here." I do not like that kind of a lie; still, it does save - work. - </p> - <p> - I am not trying to get out of repeating the details of the Siege of - Lucknow in fear of the reviewer; I am not leaving them out in fear that - they would not interest the reader; I am leaving them out partly to save - work; mainly for lack of room. It is a pity, too; for there is not a dull - place anywhere in the great story. - </p> - <p> - Ten days before the outbreak (May 10th) of the Mutiny, all was serene at - Lucknow, the huge capital of Oudh, the kingdom which had recently been - seized by the India Company. There was a great garrison, composed of about - 7,000 native troops and between 700 and 800 whites. These white soldiers - and their families were probably the only people of their race there; at - their elbow was that swarming population of warlike natives, a race of - born soldiers, brave, daring, and fond of fighting. On high ground just - outside the city stood the palace of that great personage, the Resident, - the representative of British power and authority. It stood in the midst - of spacious grounds, with its due complement of outbuildings, and the - grounds were enclosed by a wall—a wall not for defense, but for - privacy. The mutinous spirit was in the air, but the whites were not - afraid, and did not feel much troubled. - </p> - <p> - Then came the outbreak at Meerut, then the capture of Delhi by the - mutineers; in June came the three-weeks leaguer of Sir Hugh Wheeler in his - open lot at Cawnpore—40 miles distant from Lucknow—then the - treacherous massacre of that gallant little garrison; and now the great - revolt was in full flower, and the comfortable condition of things at - Lucknow was instantly changed. - </p> - <p> - There was an outbreak there, and Sir Henry Lawrence marched out of the - Residency on the 30th of June to put it down, but was defeated with heavy - loss, and had difficulty in getting back again. That night the memorable - siege of the Residency—called the siege of Lucknow—began. Sir - Henry was killed three days later, and Brigadier Inglis succeeded him in - command. - </p> - <p> - Outside of the Residency fence was an immense host of hostile and - confident native besiegers; inside it were 480 loyal native soldiers, 730 - white ones, and 500 women and children. - </p> - <p> - In those days the English garrisons always managed to hamper themselves - sufficiently with women and children. - </p> - <p> - The natives established themselves in houses close at hand and began to - rain bullets and cannon-balls into the Residency; and this they kept up, - night and day, during four months and a half, the little garrison - industriously replying all the time. The women and children soon became so - used to the roar of the guns that it ceased to disturb their sleep. The - children imitated siege and defense in their play. The women—with - any pretext, or with none—would sally out into the storm-swept - grounds. The defense was kept up week after week, with stubborn fortitude, - in the midst of death, which came in many forms—by bullet, - small-pox, cholera, and by various diseases induced by unpalatable and - insufficient food, by the long hours of wearying and exhausting overwork - in the daily and nightly battle in the oppressive Indian heat, and by the - broken rest caused by the intolerable pest of mosquitoes, flies, mice, - rats, and fleas.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p559.jpg (42K)" src="images/p559.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Six weeks after the beginning of the siege more than one-half of the - original force of white soldiers was dead, and close upon three-fifths of - the original native force. - </p> - <p> - But the fighting went on just the same. The enemy mined, the English - counter-mined, and, turn about, they blew up each other's posts. The - Residency grounds were honey-combed with the enemy's tunnels. Deadly - courtesies were constantly exchanged—sorties by the English in the - night; rushes by the enemy in the night—rushes whose purpose was to - breach the walls or scale them; rushes which cost heavily, and always - failed. - </p> - <p> - The ladies got used to all the horrors of war—the shrieks of - mutilated men, the sight of blood and death. Lady Inglis makes this - mention in her diary: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Mrs. Bruere's nurse was carried past our door to-day, wounded in the - eye. To extract the bullet it was found necessary to take out the eye—a - fearful operation. Her mistress held her while it was performed." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The first relieving force failed to relieve. It was under Havelock and - Outram; and arrived when the siege had been going on for three months. It - fought its desperate way to Lucknow, then fought its way through the city - against odds of a hundred to one, and entered the Residency; but there was - not enough left of it, then, to do any good. It lost more men in its last - fight than it found in the Residency when it got in. It became captive - itself. - </p> - <p> - The fighting and starving and dying by bullets and disease went steadily - on. Both sides fought with energy and industry. Captain Birch puts this - striking incident in evidence. He is speaking of the third month of the - siege: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "As an instance of the heavy firing brought to bear on our position this - month may be mentioned the cutting down of the upper story of a brick - building simply by musketry firing. This building was in a most exposed - position. All the shots which just missed the top of the rampart cut - into the dead wall pretty much in a straight line, and at length cut - right through and brought the upper story tumbling down. The upper - structure on the top of the brigade-mess also fell in. The Residency - house was a wreck. Captain Anderson's post had long ago been knocked - down, and Innes' post also fell in. These two were riddled with round - shot. As many as 200 were picked up by Colonel Masters." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The exhausted garrison fought doggedly on all through the next month—October. - Then, November 2d, news came Sir Colin Campbell's relieving force would - soon be on its way from Cawnpore. - </p> - <p> - On the 12th the boom of his guns was heard. - </p> - <p> - On the 13th the sounds came nearer—he was slowly, but steadily, - cutting his way through, storming one stronghold after another. - </p> - <p> - On the 14th he captured the Martiniere College, and ran up the British - flag there. It was seen from the Residency. - </p> - <p> - Next he took the Dilkoosha. - </p> - <p> - On the 17th he took the former mess-house of the 32d regiment—a - fortified building, and very strong. "A most exciting, anxious day," - writes Lady Inglis in her diary. "About 4 P.M., two strange officers - walked through our yard, leading their horses"—and by that sign she - knew that communication was established between the forces, that the - relief was real, this time, and that the long siege of Lucknow was ended. - </p> - <p> - The last eight or ten miles of Sir Colin Campbell's march was through seas - of blood. The weapon mainly used was the bayonet, the fighting was - desperate. The way was mile-stoned with detached strong buildings of - stone, fortified, and heavily garrisoned, and these had to be taken by - assault. Neither side asked for quarter, and neither gave it. At the - Secundrabagh, where nearly two thousand of the enemy occupied a great - stone house in a garden, the work of slaughter was continued until every - man was killed. That is a sample of the character of that devastating - march. - </p> - <p> - There were but few trees in the plain at that time, and from the Residency - the progress of the march, step by step, victory by victory, could be - noted; the ascending clouds of battle-smoke marked the way to the eye, and - the thunder of the guns marked it to the ear.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p563.jpg (68K)" src="images/p563.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Sir Colin Campbell had not come to Lucknow to hold it, but to save the - occupants of the Residency, and bring them away. Four or five days after - his arrival the secret evacuation by the troops took place, in the middle - of a dark night, by the principal gate, (the Bailie Guard). The two - hundred women and two hundred and fifty children had been previously - removed. Captain Birch says: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "And now commenced a movement of the most perfect arrangement and - successful generalship—the withdrawal of the whole of the various - forces, a combined movement requiring the greatest care and skill. - First, the garrison in immediate contact with the enemy at the furthest - extremity of the Residency position was marched out. Every other - garrison in turn fell in behind it, and so passed out through the Bailie - Guard gate, till the whole of our position was evacuated. Then - Havelock's force was similarly withdrawn, post by post, marching in rear - of our garrison. After them in turn came the forces of the - Commander-in-Chief, which joined on in the rear of Havelock's force. - Regiment by regiment was withdrawn with the utmost order and regularity. - The whole operation resembled the movement of a telescope. Stern silence - was kept, and the enemy took no alarm." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Lady Inglis, referring to her husband and to General Sir James Outram, - sets down the closing detail of this impressive midnight retreat, in - darkness and by stealth, of this shadowy host through the gate which it - had defended so long and so well: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "At twelve precisely they marched out, John and Sir James Outram - remaining till all had passed, and then they took off their hats to the - Bailie Guard, the scene of as noble a defense as I think history will - ever have to relate." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p565.jpg (21K)" src="images/p565.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch59" id="ch59"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LIX. - </h2> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p566.jpg (63K)" src="images/p566.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - <i>Don't part with your illusions. When they are gone you may still exist - but you have ceased to live.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Often, the surest way to convey misinformation is to tell the strict - truth.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We were driven over Sir Colin Campbell's route by a British officer, and - when I arrived at the Residency I was so familiar with the road that I - could have led a retreat over it myself; but the compass in my head has - been out of order from my birth, and so, as soon as I was within the - battered Bailie Guard and turned about to review the march and imagine the - relieving forces storming their way along it, everything was upside down - and wrong end first in a moment, and I was never able to get straightened - out again. And now, when I look at the battle-plan, the confusion remains. - In me the east was born west, the battle-plans which have the east on the - right-hand side are of no use to me. - </p> - <p> - The Residency ruins are draped with flowering vines, and are impressive - and beautiful. They and the grounds are sacred now, and will suffer no - neglect nor be profaned by any sordid or commercial use while the British - remain masters of India. Within the grounds are buried the dead who gave - up their lives there in the long siege. - </p> - <p> - After a fashion, I was able to imagine the fiery storm that raged night - and day over the place during so many months, and after a fashion I could - imagine the men moving through it, but I could not satisfactorily place - the 200 women, and I could do nothing at all with the 250 children. I knew - by Lady Inglis' diary that the children carried on their small affairs - very much as if blood and carnage and the crash and thunder of a siege - were natural and proper features of nursery life, and I tried to realize - it; but when her little Johnny came rushing, all excitement, through the - din and smoke, shouting, "Oh, mamma, the white hen has laid an egg!" I saw - that I could not do it. Johnny's place was under the bed. I could imagine - him there, because I could imagine myself there; and I think I should not - have been interested in a hen that was laying an egg; my interest would - have been with the parties that were laying the bombshells. I sat at - dinner with one of those children in the Club's Indian palace, and I knew - that all through the siege he was perfecting his teething and learning to - talk; and while to me he was the most impressive object in Lucknow after - the Residency ruins, I was not able to imagine what his life had been - during that tempestuous infancy of his, nor what sort of a curious - surprise it must have been to him to be marched suddenly out into a - strange dumb world where there wasn't any noise, and nothing going on. He - was only forty-one when I saw him, a strangely youthful link to connect - the present with so ancient an episode as the Great Mutiny.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p568.jpg (53K)" src="images/p568.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - By and by we saw Cawnpore, and the open lot which was the scene of Moore's - memorable defense, and the spot on the shore of the Ganges where the - massacre of the betrayed garrison occurred, and the small Indian temple - whence the bugle-signal notified the assassins to fall on. This latter was - a lonely spot, and silent. The sluggish river drifted by, almost - currentless. It was dead low water, narrow channels with vast sandbars - between, all the way across the wide bed; and the only living thing in - sight was that grotesque and solemn bald-headed bird, the Adjutant, - standing on his six-foot stilts, solitary on a distant bar, with his head - sunk between his shoulders, thinking; thinking of his prize, I suppose—the - dead Hindoo that lay awash at his feet, and whether to eat him alone or - invite friends. He and his prey were a proper accent to that mournful - place. They were in keeping with it, they emphasized its loneliness and - its solemnity. - </p> - <p> - And we saw the scene of the slaughter of the helpless women and children, - and also the costly memorial that is built over the well which contains - their remains. The Black Hole of Calcutta is gone, but a more reverent age - is come, and whatever remembrancer still exists of the moving and heroic - sufferings and achievements of the garrisons of Lucknow and Cawnpore will - be guarded and preserved. - </p> - <p> - In Agra and its neighborhood, and afterwards at Delhi, we saw forts, - mosques, and tombs, which were built in the great days of the Mohammedan - emperors, and which are marvels of cost, magnitude, and richness of - materials and ornamentation, creations of surpassing grandeur, wonders - which do indeed make the like things in the rest of the world seem tame - and inconsequential by comparison. I am not purposing to describe them. By - good fortune I had not read too much about them, and therefore was able to - get a natural and rational focus upon them, with the result that they - thrilled, blessed, and exalted me. But if I had previously overheated my - imagination by drinking too much pestilential literary hot Scotch, I - should have suffered disappointment and sorrow. - </p> - <p> - I mean to speak of only one of these many world-renowned buildings, the - Taj Mahal, the most celebrated construction in the earth. I had read a - great deal too much about it. I saw it in the daytime, I saw it in the - moonlight, I saw it near at hand, I saw it from a distance; and I knew all - the time, that of its kind it was <i>the</i> wonder of the world, with no - competitor now and no possible future competitor; and yet, it was not <i>my</i> - Taj. <i>My</i> Taj had been built by excitable literary people; it was - solidly lodged in my head, and I could not blast it out. - </p> - <p> - I wish to place before the reader some of the usual descriptions of the - Taj, and ask him to take note of the impressions left in his mind. These - descriptions do really state the truth—as nearly as the limitations - of language will allow. But language is a treacherous thing, a most unsure - vehicle, and it can seldom arrange descriptive words in such a way that - they will not inflate the facts—by help of the reader's imagination, - which is always ready to take a hand, and work for nothing, and do the - bulk of it at that. - </p> - <p> - I will begin with a few sentences from the excellent little local - guide-book of Mr. Satya Chandra Mukerji. I take them from here and there - in his description: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The inlaid work of the Taj and the flowers and petals that are to be - found on all sides on the surface of the marble evince a most delicate - touch." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That is true. - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The inlaid work, the marble, the flowers, the buds, the leaves, the - petals, and the lotus stems are almost without a rival in the whole of - the civilized world." - </p> - <p> - "The work of inlaying with stones and gems is found in the highest - perfection in the Taj." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Gems, inlaid flowers, buds, and leaves to be found on all sides. What do - you see before you? Is the fairy structure growing? Is it becoming a jewel - casket? - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The whole of the Taj produces a wonderful effect that is equally - sublime and beautiful." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Then Sir William Wilson Hunter: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The Taj Mahal with its beautiful domes, 'a dream of marble,' rises on - the river bank." - </p> - <p> - "The materials are white marble and red sandstone." - </p> - <p> - "The complexity of its design and the delicate intricacy of the - workmanship baffle description." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Sir William continues. I will italicize some of his words: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The mausoleum stands on a raised marble platform at each of whose - corners rises a tall and slender minaret of graceful proportions and of - exquisite beauty. Beyond the platform stretch the two wings, one of - which is itself a mosque of great architectural merit. In the center of - the whole design the mausoleum occupies a square of 186 feet, with the - angles deeply truncated so as to form an unequal octagon. The main - feature in this central pile is the great dome, which swells upward to - nearly two-thirds of a sphere and tapers at its extremity into a pointed - spire crowned by a crescent. Beneath it an enclosure of marble - trellis-work surrounds the tomb of the princess and of her husband, the - Emperor. Each corner of the mausoleum is covered by a similar though - much smaller dome erected on a pediment pierced with graceful Saracenic - arches. Light is admitted into the interior through a double screen of - pierced marble, which tempers the glare of an Indian sky while its - whiteness prevents the mellow effect from degenerating into gloom. The - internal decorations consist of inlaid work in precious stones, such as - agate, jasper, etc., with which every squandril or salient point in the - architecture is richly fretted. Brown and violet marble is also freely - employed in wreaths, scrolls, and lintels to relieve the monotony of - white wall. In regard to color and design, the interior of the Taj may - rank first in the world for purely decorative workmanship; while the - perfect symmetry of its exterior, once seen can never be forgotten, nor - the aerial grace of its domes, rising like marble bubbles into the clear - sky. The Taj represents the most highly elaborated stage of - ornamentation reached by the Indo-Mohammedan builders, the stage in - which the architect ends and the jeweler begins. In its magnificent - gateway the diagonal ornamentation at the corners, which satisfied the - designers of the gateways of Itimad-ud-doulah and Sikandra mausoleums is - superseded by fine marble cables, in bold twists, strong and handsome. - The triangular insertions of white marble and large flowers have in like - manner given place to fine inlaid work. Firm perpendicular lines in - black marble with well proportioned panels of the same material are - effectively used in the interior of the gateway. On its top the Hindu - brackets and monolithic architraves of Sikandra are replaced by Moorish - carped arches, usually single blocks of red sandstone, in the Kiosks and - pavilions which adorn the roof. From the pillared pavilions a - magnificent view is obtained of the Taj gardens below, with the noble - Jumna river at their farther end, and the city and fort of Agra in the - distance. From this beautiful and splendid gateway one passes up a - straight alley shaded by evergreen trees cooled by a broad shallow piece - of water running along the middle of the path to the Taj itself. The Taj - is entirely of marble and gems. The red sandstone of the other - Mohammedan buildings has entirely disappeared, or rather the red - sandstone which used to form the thickness of the walls, is in the Taj - itself overlaid completely with white marble, and the white marble is - itself inlaid with precious stones arranged in lovely patterns of - flowers. A feeling of purity impresses itself on the eye and the mind - from the absence of the coarser material which forms so invariable a - material in Agra architecture. The lower wall and panels are covered - with tulips, oleanders, and fullblown lilies, in flat carving on the - white marble; and although the inlaid work of flowers done in gems is - very brilliant when looked at closely, there is on the whole but little - color, and the all-prevailing sentiment is one of whiteness, silence, - and calm. The whiteness is broken only by the fine color of the inlaid - gems, by lines in black marble, and by delicately written inscriptions, - also in black, from the Koran. Under the dome of the vast mausoleum a - high and beautiful screen of open tracery in white marble rises around - the two tombs, or rather cenotaphs of the emperor and his princess; and - in this marvel of marble the carving has advanced from the old - geometrical patterns to a trellis-work of flowers and foliage, handled - with great freedom and spirit. The two cenotaphs in the center of the - exquisite enclosure have no carving except the plain Kalamdan or oblong - pen-box on the tomb of Emperor Shah Jehan. But both cenotaphs are inlaid - with flowers made of costly gems, and with the ever graceful oleander - scroll." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Bayard Taylor, after describing the details of the Taj, goes on to say: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "On both sides the palm, the banyan, and the feathery bamboo mingle - their foliage; the song of birds meets your ears, and the odor of roses - and lemon flowers sweetens the air. Down such a vista and over such a - foreground rises the Taj. There is no mystery, no sense of partial - failure about the Taj. A thing of perfect beauty and of absolute finish - in every detail, it might pass for the work of genii who knew naught of - the weaknesses and ills with which mankind are beset." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - All of these details are true. But, taken together, they state a falsehood—to - you. You cannot add them up correctly. Those writers know the values of - their words and phrases, but to you the words and phrases convey other and - uncertain values. To those writers their phrases have values which I think - I am now acquainted with; and for the help of the reader I will here - repeat certain of those words and phrases, and follow them with numerals - which shall represent those values—then we shall see the difference - between a writer's ciphering and a mistaken reader's: - </p> - <p> - Precious stones, such as agate, jasper, etc.—5. - </p> - <p> - With which every salient point is richly fretted—5. - </p> - <p> - First in the world for purely decorative workmanship—9. - </p> - <p> - The Taj represents the stage where the architect ends and the jeweler - begins—5. - </p> - <p> - The Taj is entirely of marble and gems—7. - </p> - <p> - Inlaid with precious stones in lovely patterns of flowers—5. - </p> - <p> - The inlaid work of flowers done in gems is very brilliant (followed by a - most important modification which the reader is sure to read too - carelessly)—2. - </p> - <p> - The vast mausoleum—5. - </p> - <p> - This marvel of marble—5. - </p> - <p> - The exquisite enclosure—5. - </p> - <p> - Inlaid with flowers made of costly gems—5. - </p> - <p> - A thing of perfect beauty and absolute finish—5. - </p> - <p> - Those details are correct; the figures which I have placed after them - represent quite fairly their individual values. Then why, as a whole, do - they convey a false impression to the reader? It is because the reader—beguiled - by his heated imagination—masses them in the wrong way. The writer - would mass the first three figures in the following way, and they would - speak the truth. - </p> - <p> - Total—19 - </p> - <p> - But the reader masses them thus—and then they tell a lie—559. - </p> - <p> - The writer would add all of his twelve numerals together, and then the sum - would express the whole truth about the Taj, and the truth only—63. - </p> - <p> - But the reader—always helped by his imagination—would put the - figures in a row one after the other, and get this sum, which would tell - him a noble big lie: - </p> - <p> - 559575255555. - </p> - <p> - You must put in the commas yourself; I have to go on with my work. - </p> - <p> - The reader will always be sure to put the figures together in that wrong - way, and then as surely before him will stand, sparkling in the sun, a - gem-crusted Taj tall as the Matterhorn. - </p> - <p> - I had to visit Niagara fifteen times before I succeeded in getting my - imaginary Falls gauged to the actuality and could begin to sanely and - wholesomely wonder at them for what they were, not what I had expected - them to be. When I first approached them it was with my face lifted toward - the sky, for I thought I was going to see an Atlantic ocean pouring down - thence over cloud-vexed Himalayan heights, a sea-green wall of water sixty - miles front and six miles high, and so, when the toy reality came suddenly - into view—that beruffled little wet apron hanging out to dry—the - shock was too much for me, and I fell with a dull thud. - </p> - <p> - Yet slowly, surely, steadily, in the course of my fifteen visits, the - proportions adjusted themselves to the facts, and I came at last to - realize that a waterfall a hundred and sixty-five feet high and a quarter - of a mile wide was an impressive thing. It was not a dipperful to my - vanished great vision, but it would answer.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p576.jpg (49K)" src="images/p576.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I know that I ought to do with the Taj as I was obliged to do with Niagara—see - it fifteen times, and let my mind gradually get rid of the Taj built in it - by its describers, by help of my imagination, and substitute for it the - Taj of fact. It would be noble and fine, then, and a marvel; not the - marvel which it replaced, but still a marvel, and fine enough. I am a - careless reader, I suppose—an impressionist reader; an impressionist - reader of what is not an impressionist picture; a reader who overlooks the - informing details or masses their sum improperly, and gets only a large - splashy, general effect—an effect which is not correct, and which is - not warranted by the particulars placed before me—particulars which - I did not examine, and whose meanings I did not cautiously and carefully - estimate. It is an effect which is some thirty-five or forty times finer - than the reality, and is therefore a great deal better and more valuable - than the reality; and so, I ought never to hunt up the reality, but stay - miles away from it, and thus preserve undamaged my own private mighty - Niagara tumbling out of the vault of heaven, and my own ineffable Taj, - built of tinted mists upon jeweled arches of rainbows supported by - colonnades of moonlight. It is a mistake for a person with an unregulated - imagination to go and look at an illustrious world's wonder. - </p> - <p> - I suppose that many, many years ago I gathered the idea that the Taj's - place in the achievements of man was exactly the place of the ice-storm in - the achievements of Nature; that the Taj represented man's supremest - possibility in the creation of grace and beauty and exquisiteness and - splendor, just as the ice-storm represents Nature's supremest possibility - in the combination of those same qualities. I do not know how long ago - that idea was bred in me, but I know that I cannot remember back to a time - when the thought of either of these symbols of gracious and unapproachable - perfection did not at once suggest the other. If I thought of the - ice-storm, the Taj rose before me divinely beautiful; if I thought of the - Taj, with its encrustings and inlayings of jewels, the vision of the - ice-storm rose. And so, to me, all these years, the Taj has had no rival - among the temples and palaces of men, none that even remotely approached - it—it was man's architectural ice-storm. - </p> - <p> - Here in London the other night I was talking with some Scotch and English - friends, and I mentioned the ice-storm, using it as a figure—a - figure which failed, for none of them had heard of the ice-storm. One - gentleman, who was very familiar with American literature, said he had - never seen it mentioned in any book. That is strange. And I, myself, was - not able to say that I had seen it mentioned in a book; and yet the autumn - foliage, with all other American scenery, has received full and competent - attention. - </p> - <p> - The oversight is strange, for in America the ice-storm is an event. And it - is not an event which one is careless about. When it comes, the news flies - from room to room in the house, there are bangings on the doors, and - shoutings, "The ice-storm! the ice-storm!" and even the laziest sleepers - throw off the covers and join the rush for the windows. The ice-storm - occurs in midwinter, and usually its enchantments are wrought in the - silence and the darkness of the night. A fine drizzling rain falls hour - after hour upon the naked twigs and branches of the trees, and as it falls - it freezes. In time the trunk and every branch and twig are incased in - hard pure ice; so that the tree looks like a skeleton tree made all of - glass—glass that is crystal-clear. All along the underside of every - branch and twig is a comb of little icicles—the frozen drip. - Sometimes these pendants do not quite amount to icicles, but are round - beads—frozen tears. - </p> - <p> - The weather clears, toward dawn, and leaves a brisk pure atmosphere and a - sky without a shred of cloud in it—and everything is still, there is - not a breath of wind. The dawn breaks and spreads, the news of the storm - goes about the house, and the little and the big, in wraps and blankets, - flock to the window and press together there, and gaze intently out upon - the great white ghost in the grounds, and nobody says a word, nobody - stirs. All are waiting; they know what is coming, and they are waiting - waiting for the miracle. The minutes drift on and on and on, with not a - sound but the ticking of the clock; at last the sun fires a sudden sheaf - of rays into the ghostly tree and turns it into a white splendor of - glittering diamonds. Everybody catches his breath, and feels a swelling in - his throat and a moisture in his eyes-but waits again; for he knows what - is coming; there is more yet. The sun climbs higher, and still higher, - flooding the tree from its loftiest spread of branches to its lowest, - turning it to a glory of white fire; then in a moment, without warning, - comes the great miracle, the supreme miracle, the miracle without its - fellow in the earth; a gust of wind sets every branch and twig to swaying, - and in an instant turns the whole white tree into a spouting and spraying - explosion of flashing gems of every conceivable color; and there it stands - and sways this way and that, flash! flash! flash! a dancing and glancing - world of rubies, emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, the most radiant - spectacle, the most blinding spectacle, the divinest, the most exquisite, - the most intoxicating vision of fire and color and intolerable and - unimaginable splendor that ever any eye has rested upon in this world, or - will ever rest upon outside of the gates of heaven. - </p> - <p> - By all my senses, all my faculties, I know that the icestorm is Nature's - supremest achievement in the domain of the superb and the beautiful; and - by my reason, at least, I know that the Taj is man's ice-storm. - </p> - <p> - In the ice-storm every one of the myriad ice-beads pendant from twig and - branch is an individual gem, and changes color with every motion caused by - the wind; each tree carries a million, and a forest-front exhibits the - splendors of the single tree multiplied by a thousand. - </p> - <p> - It occurs to me now that I have never seen the ice-storm put upon canvas, - and have not heard that any painter has tried to do it. I wonder why that - is. Is it that paint cannot counterfeit the intense blaze of a sun-flooded - jewel? There should be, and must be, a reason, and a good one, why the - most enchanting sight that Nature has created has been neglected by the - brush. - </p> - <p> - Often, the surest way to convey misinformation is to tell the strict - truth. The describers of the Taj have used the word gem in its strictest - sense—its scientific sense. In that sense it is a mild word, and - promises but little to the eye—nothing bright, nothing brilliant, - nothing sparkling, nothing splendid in the way of color. It accurately - describes the sober and unobtrusive gem-work of the Taj; that is, to the - very highly-educated one person in a thousand; but it most falsely - describes it to the 999. But the 999 are the people who ought to be - especially taken care of, and to them it does not mean quiet-colored - designs wrought in carnelians, or agates, or such things; they know the - word in its wide and ordinary sense only, and so to them it means diamonds - and rubies and opals and their kindred, and the moment their eyes fall - upon it in print they see a vision of glorious colors clothed in fire. - </p> - <p> - These describers are writing for the "general," and so, in order to make - sure of being understood, they ought to use words in their ordinary sense, - or else explain. The word fountain means one thing in Syria, where there - is but a handful of people; it means quite another thing in North America, - where there are 75,000,000. If I were describing some Syrian scenery, and - should exclaim, "Within the narrow space of a quarter of a mile square I - saw, in the glory of the flooding moonlight, two hundred noble fountains—imagine - the spectacle!" the North American would have a vision of clustering - columns of water soaring aloft, bending over in graceful arches, bursting - in beaded spray and raining white fire in the moonlight-and he would be - deceived. But the Syrian would not be deceived; he would merely see two - hundred fresh-water springs—two hundred drowsing puddles, as level - and unpretentious and unexcited as so many door-mats, and even with the - help of the moonlight he would not lose his grip in the presence of the - exhibition. My word "fountain" would be correct; it would speak the strict - truth; and it would convey the strict truth to the handful of Syrians, and - the strictest misinformation to the North American millions. With their - gems—and gems—and more gems—and gems again—and - still other gems—the describers of the Taj are within their legal - but not their moral rights; they are dealing in the strictest scientific - truth; and in doing it they succeed to admiration in telling "what ain't - so."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch60" id="ch60"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>SATAN (impatiently) to NEW-COMER. The trouble with you Chicago people - is, that you think you are the best people down here; whereas you are - merely the most numerous.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We wandered contentedly around here and there in India; to Lahore, among - other places, where the Lieutenant-Governor lent me an elephant. This - hospitality stands out in my experiences in a stately isolation. It was a - fine elephant, affable, gentlemanly, educated, and I was not afraid of it. - I even rode it with confidence through the crowded lanes of the native - city, where it scared all the horses out of their senses, and where - children were always just escaping its feet. It took the middle of the - road in a fine independent way, and left it to the world to get out of the - way or take the consequences. I am used to being afraid of collisions when - I ride or drive, but when one is on top of an elephant that feeling is - absent. I could have ridden in comfort through a regiment of runaway - teams. I could easily learn to prefer an elephant to any other vehicle, - partly because of that immunity from collisions, and partly because of the - fine view one has from up there, and partly because of the dignity one - feels in that high place, and partly because one can look in at the - windows and see what is going on privately among the family. The Lahore - horses were used to elephants, but they were rapturously afraid of them - just the same. It seemed curious. Perhaps the better they know the - elephant the more they respect him in that peculiar way. In our own case—we - are not afraid of dynamite till we get acquainted with it. - </p> - <p> - We drifted as far as Rawal Pindi, away up on the Afghan frontier—I - think it was the Afghan frontier, but it may have been Hertzegovina—it - was around there somewhere—and down again to Delhi, to see the - ancient architectural wonders there and in Old Delhi and not describe - them, and also to see the scene of the illustrious assault, in the Mutiny - days, when the British carried Delhi by storm, one of the marvels of - history for impudent daring and immortal valor. - </p> - <p> - We had a refreshing rest, there in Delhi, in a great old mansion which - possessed historical interest. It was built by a rich Englishman who had - become orientalized—so much so that he had a zenana. But he was a - broadminded man, and remained so. To please his harem he built a mosque; - to please himself he built an English church. That kind of a man will - arrive, somewhere. In the Mutiny days the mansion was the British - general's headquarters. It stands in a great garden—oriental fashion—and - about it are many noble trees. The trees harbor monkeys; and they are - monkeys of a watchful and enterprising sort, and not much troubled with - fear. They invade the house whenever they get a chance, and carry off - everything they don't want. One morning the master of the house was in his - bath, and the window was open. Near it stood a pot of yellow paint and a - brush. Some monkeys appeared in the window; to scare them away, the - gentleman threw his sponge at them. They did not scare at all; they jumped - into the room and threw yellow paint all over him from the brush, and - drove him out; then they painted the walls and the floor and the tank and - the windows and the furniture yellow, and were in the dressing-room - painting that when help arrived and routed them.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p585.jpg (55K)" src="images/p585.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Two of these creatures came into my room in the early morning, through a - window whose shutters I had left open, and when I woke one of them was - before the glass brushing his hair, and the other one had my note-book, - and was reading a page of humorous notes and crying. I did not mind the - one with the hair-brush, but the conduct of the other one hurt me; it - hurts me yet. I threw something at him, and that was wrong, for my host - had told me that the monkeys were best left alone. They threw everything - at me that they could lift, and then went into the bathroom to get some - more things, and I shut the door on them. - </p> - <p> - At Jeypore, in Rajputana, we made a considerable stay. We were not in the - native city, but several miles from it, in the small European official - suburb. There were but few Europeans—only fourteen but they were all - kind and hospitable, and it amounted to being at home. In Jeypore we found - again what we had found all about India—that while the Indian - servant is in his way a very real treasure, he will sometimes bear - watching, and the Englishman watches him. If he sends him on an errand, he - wants more than the man's word for it that he did the errand. When fruit - and vegetables were sent to us, a "chit" came with them—a receipt - for us to sign; otherwise the things might not arrive. If a gentleman sent - up his carriage, the chit stated "from" such-and-such an hour "to" - such-and-such an hour—which made it unhandy for the coachman and his - two or three subordinates to put us off with a part of the allotted time - and devote the rest of it to a lark of their own. - </p> - <p> - We were pleasantly situated in a small two-storied inn, in an empty large - compound which was surrounded by a mud wall as high as a man's head. The - inn was kept by nine Hindoo brothers, its owners. They lived, with their - families, in a one-storied building within the compound, but off to one - side, and there was always a long pile of their little comely brown - children loosely stacked in its veranda, and a detachment of the parents - wedged among them, smoking the hookah or the howdah, or whatever they call - it. By the veranda stood a palm, and a monkey lived in it, and led a - lonesome life, and always looked sad and weary, and the crows bothered him - a good deal. - </p> - <p> - The inn cow poked about the compound and emphasized the secluded and - country air of the place, and there was a dog of no particular breed, who - was always present in the compound, and always asleep, always stretched - out baking in the sun and adding to the deep tranquility and reposefulness - of the place, when the crows were away on business. White-draperied - servants were coming and going all the time, but they seemed only spirits, - for their feet were bare and made no sound. Down the lane a piece lived an - elephant in the shade of a noble tree, and rocked and rocked, and reached - about with his trunk, begging of his brown mistress or fumbling the - children playing at his feet. And there were camels about, but they go on - velvet feet, and were proper to the silence and serenity of the - surroundings. - </p> - <p> - The Satan mentioned at the head of this chapter was not our Satan, but the - other one. Our Satan was lost to us. In these later days he had passed out - of our life—lamented by me, and sincerely. I was missing him; I am - missing him yet, after all these months. He was an astonishing creature to - fly around and do things. He didn't always do them quite right, but he did - them, and did them suddenly. There was no time wasted. You would say: - </p> - <p> - "Pack the trunks and bags, Satan." - </p> - <p> - "Wair good" (very good). - </p> - <p> - Then there would be a brief sound of thrashing and slashing and humming - and buzzing, and a spectacle as of a whirlwind spinning gowns and jackets - and coats and boots and things through the air, and then with bow and - touch— - </p> - <p> - "Awready, master." - </p> - <p> - It was wonderful. It made one dizzy. He crumpled dresses a good deal, and - he had no particular plan about the work—at first—except to - put each article into the trunk it didn't belong in. But he soon reformed, - in this matter. Not entirely; for, to the last, he would cram into the - satchel sacred to literature any odds and ends of rubbish that he couldn't - find a handy place for elsewhere. When threatened with death for this, it - did not trouble him; he only looked pleasant, saluted with soldierly - grace, said "Wair good," and did it again next day. - </p> - <p> - He was always busy; kept the rooms tidied up, the boots polished, the - clothes brushed, the wash-basin full of clean water, my dress clothes laid - out and ready for the lecture-hall an hour ahead of time; and he dressed - me from head to heel in spite of my determination to do it myself, - according to my lifelong custom. - </p> - <p> - He was a born boss, and loved to command, and to jaw and dispute with - inferiors and harry them and bullyrag them. He was fine at the railway - station—yes, he was at his finest there. He would shoulder and - plunge and paw his violent way through the packed multitude of natives - with nineteen coolies at his tail, each bearing a trifle of luggage—one - a trunk, another a parasol, another a shawl, another a fan, and so on; one - article to each, and the longer the procession, the better he was suited—and - he was sure to make for some engaged sleeper and begin to hurl the owner's - things out of it, swearing that it was ours and that there had been a - mistake. Arrived at our own sleeper, he would undo the bedding-bundles and - make the beds and put everything to rights and shipshape in two minutes; - then put his head out at a window and have a restful good time abusing his - gang of coolies and disputing their bill until we arrived and made him pay - them and stop his noise. - </p> - <p> - Speaking of noise, he certainly was the noisest little devil in India—and - that is saying much, very much, indeed. I loved him for his noise, but the - family detested him for it. They could not abide it; they could not get - reconciled to it. It humiliated them. As a rule, when we got within six - hundred yards of one of those big railway stations, a mighty racket of - screaming and shrieking and shouting and storming would break upon us, and - I would be happy to myself, and the family would say, with shame: - </p> - <p> - "There—that's Satan. Why do you keep him?" - </p> - <p> - And, sure enough, there in the whirling midst of fifteen hundred wondering - people we would find that little scrap of a creature gesticulating like a - spider with the colic, his black eyes snapping, his fez-tassel dancing, - his jaws pouring out floods of billingsgate upon his gang of beseeching - and astonished coolies. - </p> - <p> - I loved him; I couldn't help it; but the family—why, they could - hardly speak of him with patience. To this day I regret his loss, and wish - I had him back; but they—it is different with them. He was a native, - and came from Surat. Twenty degrees of latitude lay between his birthplace - and Manuel's, and fifteen hundred between their ways and characters and - dispositions. I only liked Manuel, but I loved Satan. This latter's real - name was intensely Indian. I could not quite get the hang of it, but it - sounded like Bunder Rao Ram Chunder Clam Chowder. It was too long for - handy use, anyway; so I reduced it. - </p> - <p> - When he had been with us two or three weeks, he began to make mistakes - which I had difficulty in patching up for him. Approaching Benares one - day, he got out of the train to see if he could get up a misunderstanding - with somebody, for it had been a weary, long journey and he wanted to - freshen up. He found what he was after, but kept up his pow-wow a shade - too long and got left. So there we were in a strange city and no - chambermaid. It was awkward for us, and we told him he must not do so any - more. He saluted and said in his dear, pleasant way, "Wair good." Then at - Lucknow he got drunk. I said it was a fever, and got the family's - compassion, and solicitude aroused; so they gave him a teaspoonful of - liquid quinine and it set his vitals on fire. He made several grimaces - which gave me a better idea of the Lisbon earthquake than any I have ever - got of it from paintings and descriptions. His drunk was still - portentously solid next morning, but I could have pulled him through with - the family if he would only have taken another spoonful of that remedy; - but no, although he was stupefied, his memory still had flickerings of - life; so he smiled a divinely dull smile and said, fumblingly saluting: - </p> - <p> - "Scoose me, mem Saheb, scoose me, Missy Saheb; Satan not prefer it, - please." - </p> - <p> - Then some instinct revealed to them that he was drunk. They gave him - prompt notice that next time this happened he must go. He got out a - maudlin and most gentle "Wair good," and saluted indefinitely. - </p> - <p> - Only one short week later he fell again. And oh, sorrow! not in a hotel - this time, but in an English gentleman's private house. And in Agra, of - all places. So he had to go. When I told him, he said patiently, "Wair - good," and made his parting salute, and went out from us to return no more - forever. Dear me! I would rather have lost a hundred angels than that one - poor lovely devil. What style he used to put on, in a swell hotel or in a - private house—snow-white muslin from his chin to his bare feet, a - crimson sash embroidered with gold thread around his waist, and on his - head a great sea-green turban like to the turban of the Grand Turk. - </p> - <p> - He was not a liar; but he will become one if he keeps on. He told me once - that he used to crack cocoanuts with his teeth when he was a boy; and when - I asked how he got them into his mouth, he said he was upward of six feet - high at that time, and had an unusual mouth. And when I followed him up - and asked him what had become of that other foot, he said a house fell on - him and he was never able to get his stature back again. Swervings like - these from the strict line of fact often beguile a truthful man on and on - until he eventually becomes a liar. - </p> - <p> - His successor was a Mohammedan, Sahadat Mohammed Khan; very dark, very - tall, very grave. He went always in flowing masses of white, from the top - of his big turban down to his bare feet. His voice was low. He glided - about in a noiseless way, and looked like a ghost. He was competent and - satisfactory. But where he was, it seemed always Sunday. It was not so in - Satan's time.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p592.jpg (60K)" src="images/p592.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Jeypore is intensely Indian, but it has two or three features which - indicate the presence of European science and European interest in the - weal of the common public, such as the liberal water-supply furnished by - great works built at the State's expense; good sanitation, resulting in a - degree of healthfulness unusually high for India; a noble pleasure garden, - with privileged days for women; schools for the instruction of native - youth in advanced art, both ornamental and utilitarian; and a new and - beautiful palace stocked with a museum of extraordinary interest and - value. Without the Maharaja's sympathy and purse these beneficences could - not have been created; but he is a man of wide views and large - generosities, and all such matters find hospitality with him. - </p> - <p> - We drove often to the city from the hotel Kaiser-i-Hind, a journey which - was always full of interest, both night and day, for that country road was - never quiet, never empty, but was always India in motion, always a - streaming flood of brown people clothed in smouchings from the rainbow, a - tossing and moiling flood, happy, noisy, a charming and satisfying - confusion of strange human and strange animal life and equally strange and - outlandish vehicles.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p595.jpg (62K)" src="images/p595.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - And the city itself is a curiosity. Any Indian city is that, but this one - is not like any other that we saw. It is shut up in a lofty turreted wall; - the main body of it is divided into six parts by perfectly straight - streets that are more than a hundred feet wide; the blocks of houses - exhibit a long frontage of the most taking architectural quaintnesses, the - straight lines being broken everywhere by pretty little balconies, - pillared and highly ornamented, and other cunning and cozy and inviting - perches and projections, and many of the fronts are curiously pictured by - the brush, and the whole of them have the soft rich tint of strawberry - ice-cream. One cannot look down the far stretch of the chief street and - persuade himself that these are real houses, and that it is all out of - doors—the impression that it is an unreality, a picture, a scene in - a theater, is the only one that will take hold. - </p> - <p> - Then there came a great day when this illusion was more pronounced than - ever. A rich Hindoo had been spending a fortune upon the manufacture of a - crowd of idols and accompanying paraphernalia whose purpose was to - illustrate scenes in the life of his especial god or saint, and this fine - show was to be brought through the town in processional state at ten in - the morning. As we passed through the great public pleasure garden on our - way to the city we found it crowded with natives. That was one sight. Then - there was another. In the midst of the spacious lawns stands the palace - which contains the museum—a beautiful construction of stone which - shows arched colonnades, one above another, and receding, terrace-fashion, - toward the sky. Every one of these terraces, all the way to the top one, - was packed and jammed with natives. One must try to imagine those solid - masses of splendid color, one above another, up and up, against the blue - sky, and the Indian sun turning them all to beds of fire and flame. - </p> - <p> - Later, when we reached the city, and glanced down the chief avenue, - smouldering in its crushed-strawberry tint, those splendid effects were - repeated; for every balcony, and every fanciful bird-cage of a snuggery - countersunk in the house-fronts, and all the long lines of roofs were - crowded with people, and each crowd was an explosion of brilliant color. - </p> - <p> - Then the wide street itself, away down and down and down into the - distance, was alive with gorgeously-clothed people not still, but moving, - swaying, drifting, eddying, a delirious display of all colors and all - shades of color, delicate, lovely, pale, soft, strong, stunning, vivid, - brilliant, a sort of storm of sweetpea blossoms passing on the wings of a - hurricane; and presently, through this storm of color, came swaying and - swinging the majestic elephants, clothed in their Sunday best of - gaudinesses, and the long procession of fanciful trucks freighted with - their groups of curious and costly images, and then the long rearguard of - stately camels, with their picturesque riders. - </p> - <p> - For color, and picturesqueness, and novelty, and outlandishness, and - sustained interest and fascination, it was the most satisfying show I had - ever seen, and I suppose I shall not have the privilege of looking upon - its like again.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch61" id="ch61"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>In the first place God made idiots. This was for practice. Then He made - School Boards.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Suppose we applied no more ingenuity to the instruction of deaf and dumb - and blind children than we sometimes apply in our American public schools - to the instruction of children who are in possession of all their - faculties? The result would be that the deaf and dumb and blind would - acquire nothing. They would live and die as ignorant as bricks and stones. - The methods used in the asylums are rational. The teacher exactly measures - the child's capacity, to begin with; and from thence onwards the tasks - imposed are nicely gauged to the gradual development of that capacity, the - tasks keep pace with the steps of the child's progress, they don't jump - miles and leagues ahead of it by irrational caprice and land in vacancy—according - to the average public-school plan. In the public school, apparently, they - teach the child to spell cat, then ask it to calculate an eclipse; when it - can read words of two syllables, they require it to explain the - circulation of the blood; when it reaches the head of the infant class - they bully it with conundrums that cover the domain of universal - knowledge. This sounds extravagant—and is; yet it goes no great way - beyond the facts. - </p> - <p> - I received a curious letter one day, from the Punjab (you must pronounce - it Punjawb). The handwriting was excellent, and the wording was English—English, - and yet not exactly English. The style was easy and smooth and flowing, - yet there was something subtly foreign about it—A something - tropically ornate and sentimental and rhetorical. It turned out to be the - work of a Hindoo youth, the holder of a humble clerical billet in a - railway office. He had been educated in one of the numerous colleges of - India. Upon inquiry I was told that the country was full of young fellows - of his like. They had been educated away up to the snow-summits of - learning—and the market for all this elaborate cultivation was - minutely out of proportion to the vastness of the product. This market - consisted of some thousands of small clerical posts under the government—the - supply of material for it was multitudinous. If this youth with the - flowing style and the blossoming English was occupying a small railway - clerkship, it meant that there were hundreds and hundreds as capable as - he, or he would be in a high place; and it certainly meant that there were - thousands whose education and capacity had fallen a little short, and that - they would have to go without places. Apparently, then, the colleges of - India were doing what our high schools have long been doing—richly - over-supplying the market for highly-educated service; and thereby doing a - damage to the scholar, and through him to the country. - </p> - <p> - At home I once made a speech deploring the injuries inflicted by the high - school in making handicrafts distasteful to boys who would have been - willing to make a living at trades and agriculture if they had but had the - good luck to stop with the common school. But I made no converts. Not one, - in a community overrun with educated idlers who were above following their - fathers' mechanical trades, yet could find no market for their - book-knowledge. The same mail that brought me the letter from the Punjab, - brought also a little book published by Messrs. Thacker, Spink & Co., - of Calcutta, which interested me, for both its preface and its contents - treated of this matter of over-education. In the preface occurs this - paragraph from the Calcutta Review. For "Government office" read "drygoods - clerkship" and it will fit more than one region of America: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "The education that we give makes the boys a little less clownish in - their manners, and more intelligent when spoken to by strangers. On the - other hand, it has made them less contented with their lot in life, and - less willing to work with their hands. The form which discontent takes - in this country is not of a healthy kind; for, the Natives of India - consider that the only occupation worthy of an educated man is that of a - writership in some office, and especially in a Government office. The - village schoolboy goes back to the plow with the greatest reluctance; - and the town schoolboy carries the same discontent and inefficiency into - his father's workshop. Sometimes these ex-students positively refuse at - first to work; and more than once parents have openly expressed their - regret that they ever allowed their sons to be inveigled to school." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The little book which I am quoting from is called "Indo-Anglian - Literature," and is well stocked with "baboo" English—clerkly - English, booky English, acquired in the schools. Some of it is very funny,—almost - as funny, perhaps, as what you and I produce when we try to write in a - language not our own; but much of it is surprisingly correct and free. If - I were going to quote good English—but I am not. India is well - stocked with natives who speak it and write it as well as the best of us. - I merely wish to show some of the quaint imperfect attempts at the use of - our tongue. There are many letters in the book; poverty imploring help—bread, - money, kindness, office—generally an office, a clerkship, some way - to get food and a rag out of the applicant's unmarketable education; and - food not for himself alone, but sometimes for a dozen helpless relations - in addition to his own family; for those people are astonishingly - unselfish, and admirably faithful to their ties of kinship. Among us I - think there is nothing approaching it. Strange as some of these wailing - and supplicating letters are, humble and even groveling as some of them - are, and quaintly funny and confused as a goodly number of them are, there - is still a pathos about them, as a rule, that checks the rising laugh and - reproaches it. In the following letter "father" is not to be read - literally. In Ceylon a little native beggar-girl embarrassed me by calling - me father, although I knew she was mistaken. I was so new that I did not - know that she was merely following the custom of the dependent and the - supplicant.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p601.jpg (43K)" src="images/p601.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "SIR, - </p> - <p> - "I pray please to give me some action (work) for I am very poor boy I - have no one to help me even so father for it so it seemed in thy good - sight, you give the Telegraph Office, and another work what is your wish - I am very poor boy, this understand what is your wish you my father I am - your son this understand what is your wish. - </p> - <p> - "Your Sirvent, P. C. B." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Through ages of debasing oppression suffered by these people at the hands - of their native rulers, they come legitimately by the attitude and - language of fawning and flattery, and one must remember this in mitigation - when passing judgment upon the native character. It is common in these - letters to find the petitioner furtively trying to get at the white man's - soft religious side; even this poor boy baits his hook with a macerated - Bible-text in the hope that it may catch something if all else fail. - </p> - <p> - Here is an application for the post of instructor in English to some - children: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "My Dear Sir or Gentleman, that your Petitioner has much qualification - in the Language of English to instruct the young boys; I was given to - understand that your of suitable children has to acquire the knowledge - of English language." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - As a sample of the flowery Eastern style, I will take a sentence or two - from a long letter written by a young native to the Lieutenant-Governor of - Bengal—an application for employment: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "HONORED AND MUCH RESPECTED SIR, - </p> - <p> - "I hope your honor will condescend to hear the tale of this poor - creature. I shall overflow with gratitude at this mark of your royal - condescension. The bird-like happiness has flown away from my nest-like - heart and has not hitherto returned from the period whence the rose of - my father's life suffered the autumnal breath of death, in plain English - he passed through the gates of Grave, and from that hour the phantom of - delight has never danced before me." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It is all school-English, book-English, you see; and good enough, too, all - things considered. If the native boy had but that one study he would - shine, he would dazzle, no doubt. But that is not the case. He is situated - as are our public-school children—loaded down with an - over-freightage of other studies; and frequently they are as far beyond - the actual point of progress reached by him and suited to the stage of - development attained, as could be imagined by the insanest fancy. - Apparently—like our public-school boy—he must work, work, - work, in school and out, and play but little. Apparently—like our - public-school boy—his "education" consists in learning things, not - the meaning of them; he is fed upon the husks, not the corn. From several - essays written by native schoolboys in answer to the question of how they - spend their day, I select one—the one which goes most into detail: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "66. At the break of day I rises from my own bed and finish my daily - duty, then I employ myself till 8 o'clock, after which I employ myself - to bathe, then take for my body some sweet meat, and just at 9 1/2 I - came to school to attend my class duty, then at 2 1/2 P. M. I return - from school and engage myself to do my natural duty, then, I engage for - a quarter to take my tiffin, then I study till 5 P. M., after which I - began to play anything which comes in my head. After 8 1/2, half pass to - eight we are began to sleep, before sleeping I told a constable just 11 - o' he came and rose us from half pass eleven we began to read still - morning." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It is not perfectly clear, now that I come to cipher upon it. He gets up - at about 5 in the morning, or along there somewhere, and goes to bed about - fifteen or sixteen hours afterward—that much of it seems straight; - but why he should rise again three hours later and resume his studies till - morning is puzzling. - </p> - <p> - I think it is because he is studying history. History requires a world of - time and bitter hard work when your "education" is no further advanced - than the cat's; when you are merely stuffing yourself with a mixed-up mess - of empty names and random incidents and elusive dates, which no one - teaches you how to interpret, and which, uninterpreted, pay you not a - farthing's value for your waste of time. Yes, I think he had to get up at - halfpast 11 P.M. in order to be sure to be perfect with his history lesson - by noon. With results as follows—from a Calcutta school examination: - </p> - <p> - "Q. Who was Cardinal Wolsey? - </p> - <p> - "Cardinal Wolsey was an Editor of a paper named North Briton. No. 45 of - his publication he charged the King of uttering a lie from the throne. He - was arrested and cast into prison; and after releasing went to France. - </p> - <p> - "3. As Bishop of York but died in disentry in a church on his way to be - blockheaded. - </p> - <p> - "8. Cardinal Wolsey was the son of Edward IV, after his father's death he - himself ascended the throne at the age of (10) ten only, but when he - surpassed or when he was fallen in his twenty years of age at that time he - wished to make a journey in his countries under him, but he was opposed by - his mother to do journey, and according to his mother's example he - remained in the home, and then became King. After many times obstacles and - many confusion he become King and afterwards his brother." - </p> - <p> - There is probably not a word of truth in that. - </p> - <p> - "Q. What is the meaning of 'Ich Dien'? - </p> - <p> - "10. An honor conferred on the first or eldest sons of English Sovereigns. - It is nothing more than some feathers. - </p> - <p> - "11. Ich Dien was the word which was written on the feathers of the blind - King who came to fight, being interlaced with the bridles of the horse. - </p> - <p> - "13. Ich Dien is a title given to Henry VII by the Pope of Rome, when he - forwarded the Reformation of Cardinal Wolsy to Rome, and for this reason - he was called Commander of the faith." - </p> - <p> - A dozen or so of this kind of insane answers are quoted in the book from - that examination. Each answer is sweeping proof, all by itself, that the - person uttering it was pushed ahead of where he belonged when he was put - into history; proof that he had been put to the task of acquiring history - before he had had a single lesson in the art of acquiring it, which is the - equivalent of dumping a pupil into geometry before he has learned the - progressive steps which lead up to it and make its acquirement possible. - Those Calcutta novices had no business with history. There was no excuse - for examining them in it, no excuse for exposing them and their teachers. - They were totally empty; there was nothing to "examine." - </p> - <p> - Helen Keller has been dumb, stone deaf, and stone blind, ever since she - was a little baby a year-and-a-half old; and now at sixteen years of age - this miraculous creature, this wonder of all the ages, passes the Harvard - University examination in Latin, German, French history, belles lettres, - and such things, and does it brilliantly, too, not in a commonplace - fashion. She doesn't know merely things, she is splendidly familiar with - the meanings of them. When she writes an essay on a Shakespearean - character, her English is fine and strong, her grasp of the subject is the - grasp of one who knows, and her page is electric with light. Has Miss - Sullivan taught her by the methods of India and the American public - school? No, oh, no; for then she would be deafer and dumber and blinder - than she was before. It is a pity that we can't educate all the children - in the asylums. - </p> - <p> - To continue the Calcutta exposure: - </p> - <p> - "What is the meaning of a Sheriff?" - </p> - <p> - "25. Sheriff is a post opened in the time of John. The duty of Sheriff - here in Calcutta, to look out and catch those carriages which is rashly - driven out by the coachman; but it is a high post in England. - </p> - <p> - "26. Sheriff was the English bill of common prayer. - </p> - <p> - "27. The man with whom the accusative persons are placed is called - Sheriff. - </p> - <p> - "28. Sheriff—Latin term for 'shrub,' we called broom, worn by the - first earl of Enjue, as an emblem of humility when they went to the - pilgrimage, and from this their hairs took their crest and surname. - </p> - <p> - "29. Sheriff is a kind of titlous sect of people, as Barons, Nobles, etc. - </p> - <p> - "30. Sheriff; a tittle given on those persons who were respective and - pious in England." - </p> - <p> - The students were examined in the following bulky matters: Geometry, the - Solar Spectrum, the Habeas Corpus Act, the British Parliament, and in - Metaphysics they were asked to trace the progress of skepticism from - Descartes to Hume. It is within bounds to say that some of the results - were astonishing. Without doubt, there were students present who justified - their teacher's wisdom in introducing them to these studies; but the fact - is also evident that others had been pushed into these studies to waste - their time over them when they could have been profitably employed in - hunting smaller game. Under the head of Geometry, one of the answers is - this: - </p> - <p> - "49. The whole BD = the whole CA, and so-so-so-so-so-so-so." - </p> - <p> - To me this is cloudy, but I was never well up in geometry. That was the - only effort made among the five students who appeared for examination in - geometry; the other four wailed and surrendered without a fight. They are - piteous wails, too, wails of despair; and one of them is an eloquent - reproach; it comes from a poor fellow who has been laden beyond his - strength by a stupid teacher, and is eloquent in spite of the poverty of - its English. The poor chap finds himself required to explain riddles which - even Sir Isaac Newton was not able to understand: - </p> - <p> - "50. Oh my dear father examiner you my father and you kindly give a number - of pass you my great father. - </p> - <p> - "51. I am a poor boy and have no means to support my mother and two - brothers who are suffering much for want of food. I get four rupees - monthly from charity fund of this place, from which I send two rupees for - their support, and keep two for my own support. Father, if I relate the - unlucky circumstance under which we are placed, then, I think, you will - not be able to suppress the tender tear. - </p> - <p> - "52. Sir which Sir Isaac Newton and other experienced mathematicians - cannot understand I being third of Entrance Class can understand these - which is too impossible to imagine. And my examiner also has put very - tiresome and very heavy propositions to prove." - </p> - <p> - We must remember that these pupils had to do their thinking in one - language, and express themselves in another and alien one. It was a heavy - handicap. I have by me "English as She is Taught"—a collection of - American examinations made in the public schools of Brooklyn by one of the - teachers, Miss Caroline B. Le Row. An extract or two from its pages will - show that when the American pupil is using but one language, and that one - his own, his performance is no whit better than his Indian brother's: - </p> - <p> - "ON HISTORY. - </p> - <p> - "Christopher Columbus was called the father of his Country. Queen Isabella - of Spain sold her watch and chain and other millinery so that Columbus - could discover America. - </p> - <p> - "The Indian wars were very desecrating to the country. - </p> - <p> - "The Indians pursued their warfare by hiding in the bushes and then - scalping them. - </p> - <p> - "Captain John Smith has been styled the father of his country. His life - was saved by his daughter Pochahantas. - </p> - <p> - "The Puritans found an insane asylum in the wilds of America. - </p> - <p> - "The Stamp Act was to make everybody stamp all materials so they should be - null and void. - </p> - <p> - "Washington died in Spain almost broken-hearted. His remains were taken to - the cathedral in Havana. - </p> - <p> - "Gorilla warfare was where men rode on gorillas." - </p> - <p> - In Brooklyn, as in India, they examine a pupil, and when they find out he - doesn't know anything, they put him into literature, or geometry, or - astronomy, or government, or something like that, so that he can properly - display the assification of the whole system: - </p> - <p> - "ON LITERATURE. - </p> - <p> - "'Bracebridge Hall' was written by Henry Irving. - </p> - <p> - "Edgar A. Poe was a very curdling writer. - </p> - <p> - "Beowulf wrote the Scriptures. - </p> - <p> - "Ben Johnson survived Shakespeare in some respects. - </p> - <p> - "In the 'Canterbury Tale' it gives account of King Alfred on his way to - the shrine of Thomas Bucket. - </p> - <p> - "Chaucer was the father of English pottery. - </p> - <p> - "Chaucer was succeeded by H. Wads. Longfellow." - </p> - <p> - We will finish with a couple of samples of "literature," one from America, - the other from India. The first is a Brooklyn public-school boy's attempt - to turn a few verses of the "Lady of the Lake" into prose. You will have - to concede that he did it: - </p> - <p> - "The man who rode on the horse performed the whip and an instrument made - of steel alone with strong ardor not diminishing, for, being tired from - the time passed with hard labor overworked with anger and ignorant with - weariness, while every breath for labor he drew with cries full of sorrow, - the young deer made imperfect who worked hard filtered in sight." - </p> - <p> - The following paragraph is from a little book which is famous in India—the - biography of a distinguished Hindoo judge, Onoocool Chunder Mookerjee; it - was written by his nephew, and is unintentionally funny—in fact, - exceedingly so. I offer here the closing scene. If you would like to - sample the rest of the book, it can be had by applying to the publishers, - Messrs. Thacker, Spink & Co., Calcutta - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "And having said these words he hermetically sealed his lips not to open - them again. All the well-known doctors of Calcutta that could be - procured for a man of his position and wealth were brought,—Doctors - Payne, Fayrer, and Nilmadhub Mookerjee and others; they did what they - could do, with their puissance and knack of medical knowledge, but it - proved after all as if to milk the ram! His wife and children had not - the mournful consolation to hear his last words; he remained sotto voce - for a few hours, and then was taken from us at 6.12 P.m. according to - the caprice of God which passeth understanding." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p608.jpg (7K)" src="images/p608.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch62" id="ch62"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>There are no people who are quite so vulgar as the over-refined ones.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - We sailed from Calcutta toward the end of March; stopped a day at Madras; - two or three days in Ceylon; then sailed westward on a long flight for - Mauritius. From my diary: - </p> - <p> - April 7. We are far abroad upon the smooth waters of the Indian Ocean, - now; it is shady and pleasant and peaceful under the vast spread of the - awnings, and life is perfect again—ideal. - </p> - <p> - The difference between a river and the sea is, that the river looks fluid, - the sea solid—usually looks as if you could step out and walk on it. - </p> - <p> - The captain has this peculiarity—he cannot tell the truth in a - plausible way. In this he is the very opposite of the austere Scot who - sits midway of the table; he cannot tell a lie in an unplausible way. When - the captain finishes a statement the passengers glance at each other - privately, as who should say, "Do you believe that?" When the Scot - finishes one, the look says, "How strange and interesting." The whole - secret is in the manner and method of the two men. The captain is a little - shy and diffident, and he states the simplest fact as if he were a little - afraid of it, while the Scot delivers himself of the most abandoned lie - with such an air of stern veracity that one is forced to believe it - although one knows it isn't so. For instance, the Scot told about a pet - flying-fish he once owned, that lived in a little fountain in his - conservatory, and supported itself by catching birds and frogs and rats in - the neighboring fields. It was plain that no one at the table doubted this - statement. - </p> - <p> - By and by, in the course of some talk about custom-house annoyances, the - captain brought out the following simple everyday incident, but through - his infirmity of style managed to tell it in such a way that it got no - credence. He said: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "I went ashore at Naples one voyage when I was in that trade, and stood - around helping my passengers, for I could speak a little Italian. Two or - three times, at intervals, the officer asked me if I had anything - dutiable about me, and seemed more and more put out and disappointed - every time I told him no. Finally a passenger whom I had helped through - asked me to come out and take something. I thanked him, but excused - myself, saying I had taken a whisky just before I came ashore. - </p> - <p> - "It was a fatal admission. The officer at once made me pay sixpence - import-duty on the whisky-just from ship to shore, you see; and he fined - me L5 for not declaring the goods, another L5 for falsely denying that I - had anything dutiable about me, also L5 for concealing the goods, and - L50 for smuggling, which is the maximum penalty for unlawfully bringing - in goods under the value of sevenpence ha'penny. Altogether, sixty-five - pounds sixpence for a little thing like that." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - The Scot is always believed, yet he never tells anything but lies; whereas - the captain is never believed, although he never tells a lie, so far as I - can judge. If he should say his uncle was a male person, he would probably - say it in such a way that nobody would believe it; at the same time the - Scot could claim that he had a female uncle and not stir a doubt in - anybody's mind. My own luck has been curious all my literary life; I never - could tell a lie that anybody would doubt, nor a truth that anybody would - believe.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p610.jpg (10K)" src="images/p610.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Lots of pets on board—birds and things. In these far countries the - white people do seem to run remarkably to pets. Our host in Cawnpore had a - fine collection of birds—the finest we saw in a private house in - India. And in Colombo, Dr. Murray's great compound and commodious bungalow - were well populated with domesticated company from the woods: frisky - little squirrels; a Ceylon mina walking sociably about the house; a small - green parrot that whistled a single urgent note of call without motion of - its beak; also chuckled; a monkey in a cage on the back veranda, and some - more out in the trees; also a number of beautiful macaws in the trees; and - various and sundry birds and animals of breeds not known to me. But no - cat. Yet a cat would have liked that place.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p611.jpg (17K)" src="images/p611.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - April 9. Tea-planting is the great business in Ceylon, now. A passenger - says it often pays 40 per cent. on the investment. Says there is a boom. - </p> - <p> - April 10. The sea is a Mediterranean blue; and I believe that that is - about the divinest color known to nature. - </p> - <p> - It is strange and fine—Nature's lavish generosities to her - creatures. At least to all of them except man. For those that fly she has - provided a home that is nobly spacious—a home which is forty miles - deep and envelops the whole globe, and has not an obstruction in it. For - those that swim she has provided a more than imperial domain—a - domain which is miles deep and covers four-fifths of the globe. But as for - man, she has cut him off with the mere odds and ends of the creation. She - has given him the thin skin, the meagre skin which is stretched over the - remaining one-fifth—the naked bones stick up through it in most - places. On the one-half of this domain he can raise snow, ice, sand, - rocks, and nothing else. So the valuable part of his inheritance really - consists of but a single fifth of the family estate; and out of it he has - to grub hard to get enough to keep him alive and provide kings and - soldiers and powder to extend the blessings of civilization with. Yet man, - in his simplicity and complacency and inability to cipher, thinks Nature - regards him as the important member of the family—in fact, her - favorite. Surely, it must occur to even his dull head, sometimes, that she - has a curious way of showing it. - </p> - <p> - Afternoon. The captain has been telling how, in one of his Arctic voyages, - it was so cold that the mate's shadow froze fast to the deck and had to be - ripped loose by main strength. And even then he got only about two-thirds - of it back. Nobody said anything, and the captain went away. I think he is - becoming disheartened . . . .<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p613.jpg (92K)" src="images/p613.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Also, to be fair, there is another word of praise due to this ship's - library: it contains no copy of the Vicar of Wakefield, that strange - menagerie of complacent hypocrites and idiots, of theatrical cheap-john - heroes and heroines, who are always showing off, of bad people who are not - interesting, and good people who are fatiguing. A singular book. Not a - sincere line in it, and not a character that invites respect; a book which - is one long waste-pipe discharge of goody-goody puerilities and dreary - moralities; a book which is full of pathos which revolts, and humor which - grieves the heart. There are few things in literature that are more - piteous, more pathetic, than the celebrated "humorous" incident of Moses - and the spectacles. Jane Austen's books, too, are absent from this - library. Just that one omission alone would make a fairly good library out - of a library that hadn't a book in it. - </p> - <p> - Customs in tropic seas. At 5 in the morning they pipe to wash down the - decks, and at once the ladies who are sleeping there turn out and they and - their beds go below. Then one after another the men come up from the bath - in their pyjamas, and walk the decks an hour or two with bare legs and - bare feet. Coffee and fruit served. The ship cat and her kitten now appear - and get about their toilets; next the barber comes and flays us on the - breezy deck.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p615.jpg (38K)" src="images/p615.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Breakfast at 9.30, and the day begins. I do not know how a day could be - more reposeful: no motion; a level blue sea; nothing in sight from horizon - to horizon; the speed of the ship furnishes a cooling breeze; there is no - mail to read and answer; no newspapers to excite you; no telegrams to fret - you or fright you—the world is far, far away; it has ceased to exist - for you—seemed a fading dream, along in the first days; has - dissolved to an unreality now; it is gone from your mind with all its - businesses and ambitions, its prosperities and disasters, its exultations - and despairs, its joys and griefs and cares and worries. They are no - concern of yours any more; they have gone out of your life; they are a - storm which has passed and left a deep calm behind. The people group - themselves about the decks in their snowy white linen, and read, smoke, - sew, play cards, talk, nap, and so on. In other ships the passengers are - always ciphering about when they are going to arrive; out in these seas it - is rare, very rare, to hear that subject broached. In other ships there is - always an eager rush to the bulletin board at noon to find out what the - "run" has been; in these seas the bulletin seems to attract no interest; I - have seen no one visit it; in thirteen days I have visited it only once. - Then I happened to notice the figures of the day's run. On that day there - happened to be talk, at dinner, about the speed of modern ships. I was the - only passenger present who knew this ship's gait. Necessarily, the - Atlantic custom of betting on the ship's run is not a custom here—nobody - ever mentions it. - </p> - <p> - I myself am wholly indifferent as to when we are going to "get in"; if any - one else feels interested in the matter he has not indicated it in my - hearing. If I had my way we should never get in at all. This sort of sea - life is charged with an indestructible charm. There is no weariness, no - fatigue, no worry, no responsibility, no work, no depression of spirits. - There is nothing like this serenity, this comfort, this peace, this deep - contentment, to be found anywhere on land. If I had my way I would sail on - for ever and never go to live on the solid ground again. - </p> - <p> - One of Kipling's ballads has delivered the aspect and sentiment of this - bewitching sea correctly: - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - "The Injian Ocean sets an' smiles<br /> So sof', so bright, so bloomin' - blue;<br /> There aren't a wave for miles an' miles<br /> Excep' the - jiggle from the screw."<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - April 14. It turns out that the astronomical apprentice worked off a - section of the Milky Way on me for the Magellan Clouds. A man of more - experience in the business showed one of them to me last night. It was - small and faint and delicate, and looked like the ghost of a bunch of - white smoke left floating in the sky by an exploded bombshell. - </p> - <p> - Wednesday, April 15. Mauritius. Arrived and anchored off Port Louis 2 A. - M. Rugged clusters of crags and peaks, green to their summits; from their - bases to the sea a green plain with just tilt enough to it to make the - water drain off. I believe it is in 56 E. and 22 S.—a hot tropical - country. The green plain has an inviting look; has scattering dwellings - nestling among the greenery. Scene of the sentimental adventure of Paul - and Virginia. - </p> - <p> - Island under French control—which means a community which depends - upon quarantines, not sanitation, for its health. - </p> - <p> - Thursday, April 16. Went ashore in the forenoon at Port Louis, a little - town, but with the largest variety of nationalities and complexions we - have encountered yet. French, English, Chinese, Arabs, Africans with wool, - blacks with straight hair, East Indians, half-whites, quadroons—and - great varieties in costumes and colors. - </p> - <p> - Took the train for Curepipe at 1.30—two hours' run, gradually - uphill. What a contrast, this frantic luxuriance of vegetation, with the - arid plains of India; these architecturally picturesque crags and knobs - and miniature mountains, with the monotony of the Indian dead-levels. - </p> - <p> - A native pointed out a handsome swarthy man of grave and dignified - bearing, and said in an awed tone, "That is so-and-so; has held office of - one sort or another under this government for 37 years—he is known - all over this whole island and in the other countries of the world perhaps—who - knows? One thing is certain; you can speak his name anywhere in this whole - island, and you will find not one grown person that has not heard it. It - is a wonderful thing to be so celebrated; yet look at him; it makes no - change in him; he does not even seem to know it." - </p> - <p> - Curepipe (means Pincushion or Pegtown, probably). Sixteen miles (two - hours) by rail from Port Louis. At each end of every roof and on the apex - of every dormer window a wooden peg two feet high stands up; in some cases - its top is blunt, in others the peg is sharp and looks like a toothpick. - The passion for this humble ornament is universal. - </p> - <p> - Apparently, there has been only one prominent event in the history of - Mauritius, and that one didn't happen. I refer to the romantic sojourn of - Paul and Virginia here. It was that story that made Mauritius known to the - world, made the name familiar to everybody, the geographical position of - it to nobody. - </p> - <p> - A clergyman was asked to guess what was in a box on a table. It was a - vellum fan painted with the shipwreck, and was "one of Virginia's wedding - gifts." - </p> - <p> - April 18. This is the only country in the world where the stranger is not - asked "How do you like this place?" This is indeed a large distinction. - Here the citizen does the talking about the country himself; the stranger - is not asked to help. You get all sorts of information. From one citizen - you gather the idea that Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and - that heaven was copied after Mauritius. Another one tells you that this is - an exaggeration; that the two chief villages, Port Louis and Curepipe, - fall short of heavenly perfection; that nobody lives in Port Louis except - upon compulsion, and that Curepipe is the wettest and rainiest place in - the world.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p619.jpg (14K)" src="images/p619.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - An English citizen said: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "In the early part of this century Mauritius was used by the French as a - basis from which to operate against England's Indian merchantmen; so - England captured the island and also the neighbor, Bourbon, to stop that - annoyance. England gave Bourbon back; the government in London did not - want any more possessions in the West Indies. If the government had had - a better quality of geography in stock it would not have wasted Bourbon - in that foolish way. A big war will temporarily shut up the Suez Canal - some day and the English ships will have to go to India around the Cape - of Good Hope again; then England will have to have Bourbon and will take - it. - </p> - <p> - "Mauritius was a crown colony until 20 years ago, with a governor - appointed by the Crown and assisted by a Council appointed by himself; - but Pope Hennessey came out as Governor then, and he worked hard to get - a part of the council made elective, and succeeded. So now the whole - council is French, and in all ordinary matters of legislation they vote - together and in the French interest, not the English. The English - population is very slender; it has not votes enough to elect a - legislator. Half a dozen rich French families elect the legislature. - Pope Hennessey was an Irishman, a Catholic, a Home Ruler, M.P., a hater - of England and the English, a very troublesome person and a serious - incumbrance at Westminster; so it was decided to send him out to govern - unhealthy countries, in hope that something would happen to him. But - nothing did. The first experiment was not merely a failure, it was more - than a failure. He proved to be more of a disease himself than any he - was sent to encounter. The next experiment was here. The dark scheme - failed again. It was an off-season and there was nothing but measles - here at the time. Pope Hennessey's health was not affected. He worked - with the French and for the French and against the English, and he made - the English very tired and the French very happy, and lived to have the - joy of seeing the flag he served publicly hissed. His memory is held in - worshipful reverence and affection by the French. - </p> - <p> - "It is a land of extraordinary quarantines. They quarantine a ship for - anything or for nothing; quarantine her for 20 and even 30 days. They - once quarantined a ship because her captain had had the smallpox when he - was a boy. That and because he was English. - </p> - <p> - "The population is very small; small to insignificance. The majority is - East Indian; then mongrels; then negroes (descendants of the slaves of - the French times); then French; then English. There was an American, but - he is dead or mislaid. The mongrels are the result of all kinds of - mixtures; black and white, mulatto and white, quadroon and white, - octoroon and white. And so there is every shade of complexion; ebony, - old mahogany, horsechestnut, sorrel, molasses-candy, clouded amber, - clear amber, old-ivory white, new-ivory white, fish-belly white—this - latter the leprous complexion frequent with the Anglo-Saxon long - resident in tropical climates. - </p> - <p> - "You wouldn't expect a person to be proud of being a Mauritian, now - would you? But it is so. The most of them have never been out of the - island, and haven't read much or studied much, and they think the world - consists of three principal countries—Judaea, France, and - Mauritius; so they are very proud of belonging to one of the three grand - divisions of the globe. They think that Russia and Germany are in - England, and that England does not amount to much. They have heard - vaguely about the United States and the equator, but they think both of - them are monarchies. They think Mount Peter Botte is the highest - mountain in the world, and if you show one of them a picture of Milan - Cathedral he will swell up with satisfaction and say that the idea of - that jungle of spires was stolen from the forest of peg-tops and - toothpicks that makes the roofs of Curepipe look so fine and prickly. - </p> - <p> - "There is not much trade in books. The newspapers educate and entertain - the people. Mainly the latter. They have two pages of large-print - reading-matter-one of them English, the other French. The English page - is a translation of the French one. The typography is super-extra - primitive—in this quality it has not its equal anywhere. There is - no proof-reader now; he is dead. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p621.jpg (31K)" src="images/p621.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Where do they get matter to fill up a page in this little island lost - in the wastes of the Indian Ocean? Oh, Madagascar. They discuss - Madagascar and France. That is the bulk. Then they chock up the rest - with advice to the Government. Also, slurs upon the English - administration. The papers are all owned and edited by creoles—French. - </p> - <p> - "The language of the country is French. Everybody speaks it—has - to. You have to know French particularly mongrel French, the patois - spoken by Tom, Dick, and Harry of the multiform complexions—or you - can't get along. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - "This was a flourishing country in former days, for it made then and still - makes the best sugar in the world; but first the Suez Canal severed it - from the world and left it out in the cold and next the beetroot sugar - helped by bounties, captured the European markets. Sugar is the life of - Mauritius, and it is losing its grip. Its downward course was checked by - the depreciation of the rupee—for the planter pays wages in rupees - but sells his crop for gold—and the insurrection in Cuba and - paralyzation of the sugar industry there have given our prices here a - life-saving lift; but the outlook has nothing permanently favorable about - it. It takes a year to mature the canes—on the high ground three and - six months longer—and there is always a chance that the annual - cyclone will rip the profit out of the crop. In recent times a cyclone - took the whole crop, as you may say; and the island never saw a finer one. - Some of the noblest sugar estates in the island are in deep difficulties. - A dozen of them are investments of English capital; and the companies that - own them are at work now, trying to settle up and get out with a saving of - half the money they put in. You know, in these days, when a country begins - to introduce the tea culture, it means that its own specialty has gone - back on it. Look at Bengal; look at Ceylon. Well, they've begun to - introduce the tea culture, here. - </p> - <p> - "Many copies of Paul and Virginia are sold every year in Mauritius. No - other book is so popular here except the Bible. By many it is supposed to - be a part of the Bible. All the missionaries work up their French on it - when they come here to pervert the Catholic mongrel. It is the greatest - story that was ever written about Mauritius, and the only one."<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch63" id="ch63"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The principal difference between a cat and a lie is that the cat has - only nine lives.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - April 20.—The cyclone of 1892 killed and crippled hundreds of - people; it was accompanied by a deluge of rain, which drowned Port Louis - and produced a water famine. Quite true; for it burst the reservoir and - the water-pipes; and for a time after the flood had disappeared there was - much distress from want of water. - </p> - <p> - This is the only place in the world where no breed of matches can stand - the damp. Only one match in 16 will light.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p622.jpg (12K)" src="images/p622.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The roads are hard and smooth; some of the compounds are spacious, some of - the bungalows commodious, and the roadways are walled by tall bamboo - hedges, trim and green and beautiful; and there are azalea hedges, too, - both the white and the red; I never saw that before. - </p> - <p> - As to healthiness: I translate from to-day's (April 20) Merchants' and - Planters' Gazette, from the article of a regular contributor, "Carminge," - concerning the death of the nephew of a prominent citizen: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - "Sad and lugubrious existence, this which we lead in Mauritius; I - believe there is no other country in the world where one dies more - easily than among us. The least indisposition becomes a mortal malady; a - simple headache develops into meningitis; a cold into pneumonia, and - presently, when we are least expecting it, death is a guest in our - home." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - This daily paper has a meteorological report which tells you what the - weather was day before yesterday. - </p> - <p> - One is never pestered by a beggar or a peddler in this town, so far as I - can see. This is pleasantly different from India. - </p> - <p> - April 22. To such as believe that the quaint product called French - civilization would be an improvement upon the civilization of New Guinea - and the like, the snatching of Madagascar and the laying on of French - civilization there will be fully justified. But why did the English allow - the French to have Madagascar? Did she respect a theft of a couple of - centuries ago? Dear me, robbery by European nations of each other's - territories has never been a sin, is not a sin to-day. To the several - cabinets the several political establishments of the world are - clotheslines; and a large part of the official duty of these cabinets is - to keep an eye on each other's wash and grab what they can of it as - opportunity offers. All the territorial possessions of all the political - establishments in the earth—including America, of course—consist - of pilferings from other people's wash. No tribe, howsoever insignificant, - and no nation, howsoever mighty, occupies a foot of land that was not - stolen. When the English, the French, and the Spaniards reached America, - the Indian tribes had been raiding each other's territorial clothes-lines - for ages, and every acre of ground in the continent had been stolen and - re-stolen 500 times. The English, the French, and the Spaniards went to - work and stole it all over again; and when that was satisfactorily - accomplished they went diligently to work and stole it from each other. In - Europe and Asia and Africa every acre of ground has been stolen several - millions of times. A crime persevered in a thousand centuries ceases to be - a crime, and becomes a virtue. This is the law of custom, and custom - supersedes all other forms of law. Christian governments are as frank - to-day, as open and above-board, in discussing projects for raiding each - other's clothes-lines as ever they were before the Golden Rule came - smiling into this inhospitable world and couldn't get a night's lodging - anywhere. In 150 years England has beneficently retired garment after - garment from the Indian lines, until there is hardly a rag of the original - wash left dangling anywhere. In 800 years an obscure tribe of Muscovite - savages has risen to the dazzling position of Land-Robber-in-Chief; she - found a quarter of the world hanging out to dry on a hundred parallels of - latitude, and she scooped in the whole wash. She keeps a sharp eye on a - multitude of little lines that stretch along the northern boundaries of - India, and every now and then she snatches a hip-rag or a pair of pyjamas. - It is England's prospective property, and Russia knows it; but Russia - cares nothing for that. In fact, in our day land-robbery, claim-jumping, - is become a European governmental frenzy. Some have been hard at it in the - borders of China, in Burma, in Siam, and the islands of the sea; and all - have been at it in Africa. Africa has been as coolly divided up and - portioned out among the gang as if they had bought it and paid for it. And - now straightway they are beginning the old game again—to steal each - other's grabbings. Germany found a vast slice of Central Africa with the - English flag and the English missionary and the English trader scattered - all over it, but with certain formalities neglected—no signs up, - "Keep off the grass," "Trespassers-forbidden," etc.—and she stepped - in with a cold calm smile and put up the signs herself, and swept those - English pioneers promptly out of the country. - </p> - <p> - There is a tremendous point there. It can be put into the form of a maxim: - Get your formalities right—never mind about the moralities. - </p> - <p> - It was an impudent thing; but England had to put up with it. Now, in the - case of Madagascar, the formalities had originally been observed, but by - neglect they had fallen into desuetude ages ago. England should have - snatched Madagascar from the French clothes-line. Without an effort she - could have saved those harmless natives from the calamity of French - civilization, and she did not do it. Now it is too late. - </p> - <p> - The signs of the times show plainly enough what is going to happen. All - the savage lands in the world are going to be brought under subjection to - the Christian governments of Europe. I am not sorry, but glad. This coming - fate might have been a calamity to those savage peoples two hundred years - ago; but now it will in some cases be a benefaction. The sooner the - seizure is consummated, the better for the savages. - </p> - <p> - The dreary and dragging ages of bloodshed and disorder and oppression will - give place to peace and order and the reign of law. When one considers - what India was under her Hindoo and Mohammedan rulers, and what she is - now; when he remembers the miseries of her millions then and the - protections and humanities which they enjoy now, he must concede that the - most fortunate thing that has ever befallen that empire was the - establishment of British supremacy there. The savage lands of the world - are to pass to alien possession, their peoples to the mercies of alien - rulers. Let us hope and believe that they will all benefit by the change. - </p> - <p> - April 23. "The first year they gather shells; the second year they gather - shells and drink; the third year they do not gather shells." (Said of - immigrants to Mauritius.)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p625.jpg (30K)" src="images/p625.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Population 375,000. 120 sugar factories. - </p> - <p> - Population 1851, 185,000. The increase is due mainly to the introduction - of Indian coolies. They now apparently form the great majority of the - population. They are admirable breeders; their homes are always hazy with - children. Great savers of money. A British officer told me that in India - he paid his servant 10 rupees a month, and he had 11 cousins, uncles, - parents, etc., dependent upon him, and he supported them on his wages. - These thrifty coolies are said to be acquiring land a trifle at a time, - and cultivating it; and may own the island by and by. - </p> - <p> - The Indian women do very hard labor (for wages running from 40 one - hundredths of a rupee for twelve hours' work to 50 one hundredths of a - rupee.) They carry mats of sugar on their heads (70 pounds) all day lading - ships, for half a rupee, and work at gardening all day for less.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p626.jpg (11K)" src="images/p626.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The camaron is a fresh water creature like a cray-fish. It is regarded - here as the world's chiefest delicacy—and certainly it is good. - Guards patrol the streams to prevent poaching it. A fine of Rs.200 or 300 - (they say) for poaching. Bait is thrown in the water; the camaron goes for - it; the fisher drops his loop in and works it around and about the camaron - he has selected, till he gets it over its tail; then there's a jerk or - something to certify the camaron that it is his turn now; he suddenly - backs away, which moves the loop still further up his person and draws it - taut, and his days are ended. - </p> - <p> - Another dish, called palmiste, is like raw turnip-shavings and tastes like - green almonds; is very delicate and good. Costs the life of a palm tree 12 - to 20 years old—for it is the pith. - </p> - <p> - Another dish—looks like greens or a tangle of fine seaweed—is - a preparation of the deadly nightshade. Good enough. - </p> - <p> - The monkeys live in the dense forests on the flanks of the toy mountains, - and they flock down nights and raid the sugar-fields. Also on other - estates they come down and destroy a sort of bean-crop—just for fun, - apparently—tear off the pods and throw them down. - </p> - <p> - The cyclone of 1892 tore down two great blocks of stone buildings in the - center of Port Louis—the chief architectural feature—and left - the uncomely and apparently frail blocks standing. Everywhere in its track - it annihilated houses, tore off roofs, destroyed trees and crops. The men - were in the towns, the women and children at home in the country getting - crippled, killed, frightened to insanity; and the rain deluging them, the - wind howling, the thunder crashing, the lightning glaring. This for an - hour or so. Then a lull and sunshine; many ventured out of safe shelter; - then suddenly here it came again from the opposite point and renewed and - completed the devastation. It is said the Chinese fed the sufferers for - days on free rice.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p628.jpg (35K)" src="images/p628.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Whole streets in Port Louis were laid flat—wrecked. During a minute - and a half the wind blew 123 miles an hour; no official record made after - that, when it may have reached 150. It cut down an obelisk. It carried an - American ship into the woods after breaking the chains of two anchors. - They now use four-two forward, two astern. Common report says it killed - 1,200 in Port Louis alone, in half an hour. Then came the lull of the - central calm—people did not know the barometer was still going down—then - suddenly all perdition broke loose again while people were rushing around - seeking friends and rescuing the wounded. The noise was comparable to - nothing; there is nothing resembling it but thunder and cannon, and these - are feeble in comparison. - </p> - <p> - What there is of Mauritius is beautiful. You have undulating wide expanses - of sugar-cane—a fine, fresh green and very pleasant to the eye; and - everywhere else you have a ragged luxuriance of tropic vegetation of vivid - greens of varying shades, a wild tangle of underbrush, with graceful tall - palms lifting their crippled plumes high above it; and you have stretches - of shady dense forest with limpid streams frolicking through them, - continually glimpsed and lost and glimpsed again in the pleasantest - hide-and-seek fashion; and you have some tiny mountains, some quaint and - picturesque groups of toy peaks, and a dainty little vest-pocket - Matterhorn; and here and there and now and then a strip of sea with a - white ruffle of surf breaks into the view. - </p> - <p> - That is Mauritius; and pretty enough. The details are few, the massed - result is charming, but not imposing; not riotous, not exciting; it is a - Sunday landscape. Perspective, and the enchantments wrought by distance, - are wanting. There are no distances; there is no perspective, so to speak. - Fifteen miles as the crow flies is the usual limit of vision. Mauritius is - a garden and a park combined. It affects one's emotions as parks and - gardens affect them. The surfaces of one's spiritual deeps are pleasantly - played upon, the deeps themselves are not reached, not stirred. - Spaciousness, remote altitudes, the sense of mystery which haunts - apparently inaccessible mountain domes and summits reposing in the sky—these - are the things which exalt the spirit and move it to see visions and dream - dreams. - </p> - <p> - The Sandwich Islands remain my ideal of the perfect thing in the matter of - tropical islands. I would add another story to Mauna Loa's 16,000 feet if - I could, and make it particularly bold and steep and craggy and forbidding - and snowy; and I would make the volcano spout its lava-floods out of its - summit instead of its sides; but aside from these non-essentials I have no - corrections to suggest. I hope these will be attended to; I do not wish to - have to speak of it again.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch64" id="ch64"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXIV. - </h2> - <p> - <i>When your watch gets out of order you have choice of two things to do: - throw it in the fire or take it to the watch-tinker. The former is the - quickest.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The Arundel Castle is the finest boat I have seen in these seas. She is - thoroughly modern, and that statement covers a great deal of ground. She - has the usual defect, the common defect, the universal defect, the defect - that has never been missing from any ship that ever sailed—she has - imperfect beds. Many ships have good beds, but no ship has very good ones. - In the matter of beds all ships have been badly edited, ignorantly edited, - from the beginning. The selection of the beds is given to some hearty, - strong-backed, self-made man, when it ought to be given to a frail woman - accustomed from girlhood to backaches and insomnia. Nothing is so rare, on - either side of the ocean, as a perfect bed; nothing is so difficult to - make. Some of the hotels on both sides provide it, but no ship ever does - or ever did. In Noah's Ark the beds were simply scandalous. Noah set the - fashion, and it will endure in one degree of modification or another till - the next flood. - </p> - <p> - 8 A.M. Passing Isle de Bourbon. Broken-up sky-line of volcanic mountains - in the middle. Surely it would not cost much to repair them, and it seems - inexcusable neglect to leave them as they are. - </p> - <p> - It seems stupid to send tired men to Europe to rest. It is no proper rest - for the mind to clatter from town to town in the dust and cinders, and - examine galleries and architecture, and be always meeting people and - lunching and teaing and dining, and receiving worrying cables and letters. - And a sea voyage on the Atlantic is of no use—voyage too short, sea - too rough. The peaceful Indian and Pacific Oceans and the long stretches - of time are the healing thing.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p631.jpg (25K)" src="images/p631.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - May 2, AM. A fair, great ship in sight, almost the first we have seen in - these weeks of lonely voyaging. We are now in the Mozambique Channel, - between Madagascar and South Africa, sailing straight west for Delagoa - Bay. - </p> - <p> - Last night, the burly chief engineer, middle-aged, was standing telling a - spirited seafaring tale, and had reached the most exciting place, where a - man overboard was washing swiftly astern on the great seas, and uplifting - despairing cries, everybody racing aft in a frenzy of excitement and - fading hope, when the band, which had been silent a moment, began - impressively its closing piece, the English national anthem. As simply as - if he was unconscious of what he was doing, he stopped his story, - uncovered, laid his laced cap against his breast, and slightly bent his - grizzled head. The few bars finished, he put on his cap and took up his - tale again, as naturally as if that interjection of music had been a part - of it. There was something touching and fine about it, and it was moving - to reflect that he was one of a myriad, scattered over every part of the - globe, who by turn was doing as he was doing every hour of the twenty-four—those - awake doing it while the others slept—those impressive bars forever - floating up out of the various climes, never silent and never lacking - reverent listeners. - </p> - <p> - All that I remember about Madagascar is that Thackeray's little Billie - went up to the top of the mast and there knelt him upon his knee, saying, - "I see - </p> - <table summary=""> - <tr> - <td> - <br /> "Jerusalem and Madagascar,<br /> And North and South Amerikee."<br /> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <p> - May 3. Sunday. Fifteen or twenty Africanders who will end their voyage - to-day and strike for their several homes from Delagoa Bay to-morrow, sat - up singing on the afterdeck in the moonlight till 3 A.M. Good fun and - wholesome. And the songs were clean songs, and some of them were hallowed - by tender associations.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p633.jpg (41K)" src="images/p633.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Finally, in a pause, a man asked, "Have you heard about the fellow that - kept a diary crossing the Atlantic?" It was a discord, a wet blanket. The - men were not in the mood for humorous dirt. The songs had carried them to - their homes, and in spirit they sat by those far hearthstones, and saw - faces and heard voices other than those that were about them. And so this - disposition to drag in an old indecent anecdote got no welcome; nobody - answered. The poor man hadn't wit enough to see that he had blundered, but - asked his question again. Again there was no response. It was embarrassing - for him. In his confusion he chose the wrong course, did the wrong thing—began - the anecdote. Began it in a deep and hostile stillness, where had been - such life and stir and warm comradeship before. He delivered himself of - the brief details of the diary's first day, and did it with some - confidence and a fair degree of eagerness. It fell flat. There was an - awkward pause. The two rows of men sat like statues. There was no - movement, no sound. He had to go on; there was no other way, at least none - that an animal of his calibre could think of. At the close of each day's - diary, the same dismal silence followed. When at last he finished his tale - and sprung the indelicate surprise which is wont to fetch a crash of - laughter, not a ripple of sound resulted. It was as if the tale had been - told to dead men. After what seemed a long, long time, somebody sighed, - somebody else stirred in his seat; presently, the men dropped into a low - murmur of confidential talk, each with his neighbor, and the incident was - closed. There were indications that that man was fond of his anecdote; - that it was his pet, his standby, his shot that never missed, his - reputation-maker. But he will never tell it again. No doubt he will think - of it sometimes, for that cannot well be helped; and then he will see a - picture, and always the same picture—the double rank of dead men; - the vacant deck stretching away in dimming perspective beyond them, the - wide desert of smooth sea all abroad; the rim of the moon spying from - behind a rag of black cloud; the remote top of the mizzenmast shearing a - zigzag path through the fields of stars in the deeps of space; and this - soft picture will remind him of the time that he sat in the midst of it - and told his poor little tale and felt so lonesome when he got through. - </p> - <p> - Fifty Indians and Chinamen asleep in a big tent in the waist of the ship - forward; they lie side by side with no space between; the former wrapped - up, head and all, as in the Indian streets, the Chinamen uncovered; the - lamp and things for opium smoking in the center.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p636.jpg (31K)" src="images/p636.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - A passenger said it was ten 2-ton truck loads of dynamite that lately - exploded at Johannesburg. Hundreds killed; he doesn't know how many; limbs - picked up for miles around. Glass shattered, and roofs swept away or - collapsed 200 yards off; fragment of iron flung three and a half miles. - </p> - <p> - It occurred at 3 p.m.; at 6, L65,000 had been subscribed. When this - passenger left, L35,000 had been voted by city and state governments and - L100,000 by citizens and business corporations. When news of the disaster - was telephoned to the Exchange L35,000 were subscribed in the first five - minutes. Subscribing was still going on when he left; the papers had - ceased the names, only the amounts—too many names; not enough room. - L100,000 subscribed by companies and citizens; if this is true, it must be - what they call in Australia "a record"—the biggest instance of a - spontaneous outpour for charity in history, considering the size of the - population it was drawn from, $8 or $10 for each white resident, babies at - the breast included. - </p> - <p> - Monday, May 4. Steaming slowly in the stupendous Delagoa Bay, its dim arms - stretching far away and disappearing on both sides. It could furnish - plenty of room for all the ships in the world, but it is shoal. The lead - has given us 3 1/2 fathoms several times and we are drawing that, lacking - 6 inches. - </p> - <p> - A bold headland—precipitous wall, 150 feet high, very strong, red - color, stretching a mile or so. A man said it was Portuguese blood—battle - fought here with the natives last year. I think this doubtful. Pretty - cluster of houses on the tableland above the red and rolling stretches of - grass and groups of trees, like England. - </p> - <p> - The Portuguese have the railroad (one passenger train a day) to the border—70 - miles—then the Netherlands Company have it. Thousands of tons of - freight on the shore—no cover. This is Portuguese allover—indolence, - piousness, poverty, impotence. - </p> - <p> - Crews of small boats and tugs, all jet black woolly heads and very - muscular. - </p> - <p> - Winter. The South African winter is just beginning now, but nobody but an - expert can tell it from summer. However, I am tired of summer; we have had - it unbroken for eleven months. We spent the afternoon on shore, Delagoa - Bay. A small town—no sights. No carriages. Three 'rickshas, but we - couldn't get them—apparently private. These Portuguese are a rich - brown, like some of the Indians. Some of the blacks have the long horse - heads and very long chins of the negroes of the picture books; but most of - them are exactly like the negroes of our Southern States round faces, flat - noses, good-natured, and easy laughers. - </p> - <p> - Flocks of black women passed along, carrying outrageously heavy bags of - freight on their heads. The quiver of their leg as the foot was planted - and the strain exhibited by their bodies showed what a tax upon their - strength the load was. They were stevedores and doing full stevedore's - work. They were very erect when unladden—from carrying heavy loads - on their heads—just like the Indian women. It gives them a proud - fine carriage. - </p> - <p> - Sometimes one saw a woman carrying on her head a laden and top-heavy - basket the shape of an inverted pyramid—its top the size of a - soup-plate, its base the diameter of a teacup. It required nice balancing—and - got it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p638.jpg (57K)" src="images/p638.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - No bright colors; yet there were a good many Hindoos. - </p> - <p> - The Second Class Passenger came over as usual at "lights out" (11) and we - lounged along the spacious vague solitudes of the deck and smoked the - peaceful pipe and talked. He told me an incident in Mr. Barnum's life - which was evidently characteristic of that great showman in several ways: - </p> - <p> - This was Barnum's purchase of Shakespeare's birthplace, a quarter of a - century ago. The Second Class Passenger was in Jamrach's employ at the - time and knew Barnum well. He said the thing began in this way. One - morning Barnum and Jamrach were in Jamrach's little private snuggery back - of the wilderness of caged monkeys and snakes and other commonplaces of - Jamrach's stock in trade, refreshing themselves after an arduous stroke of - business, Jamrach with something orthodox, Barnum with something heterodox—for - Barnum was a teetotaler. The stroke of business was in the elephant line. - Jamrach had contracted to deliver to Barnum in New York 18 elephants for - $360,000 in time for the next season's opening. Then it occurred to Mr. - Barnum that he needed a "card". He suggested Jumbo. Jamrach said he would - have to think of something else—Jumbo couldn't be had; the Zoo - wouldn't part with that elephant. Barnum said he was willing to pay a - fortune for Jumbo if he could get him. Jamrach said it was no use to think - about it; that Jumbo was as popular as the Prince of Wales and the Zoo - wouldn't dare to sell him; all England would be outraged at the idea; - Jumbo was an English institution; he was part of the national glory; one - might as well think of buying the Nelson monument. Barnum spoke up with - vivacity and said: - </p> - <p> - "It's a first-rate idea. I'll buy the Monument." - </p> - <p> - Jamrach was speechless for a second. Then he said, like one ashamed "You - caught me. I was napping. For a moment I thought you were in earnest." - </p> - <p> - Barnum said pleasantly— - </p> - <p> - "I was in earnest. I know they won't sell it, but no matter, I will not - throw away a good idea for all that. All I want is a big advertisement. I - will keep the thing in mind, and if nothing better turns up I will offer - to buy it. That will answer every purpose. It will furnish me a couple of - columns of gratis advertising in every English and American paper for a - couple of months, and give my show the biggest boom a show ever had in - this world." - </p> - <p> - Jamrach started to deliver a burst of admiration, but was interrupted by - Barnum, who said: - </p> - <p> - "Here is a state of things! England ought to blush." - </p> - <p> - His eye had fallen upon something in the newspaper. He read it through to - himself, then read it aloud. It said that the house that Shakespeare was - born in at Stratford-on-Avon was falling gradually to ruin through - neglect; that the room where the poet first saw the light was now serving - as a butcher's shop; that all appeals to England to contribute money (the - requisite sum stated) to buy and repair the house and place it in the care - of salaried and trustworthy keepers had fallen resultless. Then Barnum - said: - </p> - <p> - "There's my chance. Let Jumbo and the Monument alone for the present—they'll - keep. I'll buy Shakespeare's house. I'll set it up in my Museum in New - York and put a glass case around it and make a sacred thing of it; and - you'll see all America flock there to worship; yes, and pilgrims from the - whole earth; and I'll make them take their hats off, too. In America we - know how to value anything that Shakespeare's touch has made holy. You'll - see."<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p640.jpg (29K)" src="images/p640.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In conclusion the S. C. P. said: - </p> - <p> - "That is the way the thing came about. Barnum did buy Shakespeare's house. - He paid the price asked, and received the properly attested documents of - sale. Then there was an explosion, I can tell you. England rose! That, the - birthplace of the master-genius of all the ages and all the climes—that - priceless possession of Britain—to be carted out of the country like - so much old lumber and set up for sixpenny desecration in a Yankee - show-shop—the idea was not to be tolerated for a moment. England - rose in her indignation; and Barnum was glad to relinquish his prize and - offer apologies. However, he stood out for a compromise; he claimed a - concession—England must let him have Jumbo. And England consented, - but not cheerfully." - </p> - <p> - It shows how, by help of time, a story can grow—even after Barnum - has had the first innings in the telling of it. Mr. Barnum told me the - story himself, years ago. He said that the permission to buy Jumbo was not - a concession; the purchase was made and the animal delivered before the - public knew anything about it. Also, that the securing of Jumbo was all - the advertisement he needed. It produced many columns of newspaper talk, - free of cost, and he was satisfied. He said that if he had failed to get - Jumbo he would have caused his notion of buying the Nelson Monument to be - treacherously smuggled into print by some trusty friend, and after he had - gotten a few hundred pages of gratuitous advertising out of it, he would - have come out with a blundering, obtuse, but warm-hearted letter of - apology, and in a postscript to it would have naively proposed to let the - Monument go, and take Stonehenge in place of it at the same price. - </p> - <p> - It was his opinion that such a letter, written with well-simulated asinine - innocence and gush would have gotten his ignorance and stupidity an amount - of newspaper abuse worth six fortunes to him, and not purchasable for - twice the money. - </p> - <p> - I knew Mr. Barnum well, and I placed every confidence in the account which - he gave me of the Shakespeare birthplace episode. He said he found the - house neglected and going-to decay, and he inquired into the matter and - was told that many times earnest efforts had been made to raise money for - its proper repair and preservation, but without success. He then proposed - to buy it. The proposition was entertained, and a price named—$50,000, - I think; but whatever it was, Barnum paid the money down, without remark, - and the papers were drawn up and executed. He said that it had been his - purpose to set up the house in his Museum, keep it in repair, protect it - from name-scribblers and other desecrators, and leave it by bequest to the - safe and perpetual guardianship of the Smithsonian Institute at - Washington. - </p> - <p> - But as soon as it was found that Shakespeare's house had passed into - foreign hands and was going to be carried across the ocean, England was - stirred as no appeal from the custodians of the relic had ever stirred - England before, and protests came flowing in—and money, too, to stop - the outrage. Offers of repurchase were made—offers of double the - money that Mr. Barnum had paid for the house. He handed the house back, - but took only the sum which it had cost him—but on the condition - that an endowment sufficient for the future safeguarding and maintenance - of the sacred relic should be raised. This condition was fulfilled. - </p> - <p> - That was Barnum's account of the episode; and to the end of his days he - claimed with pride and satisfaction that not England, but America—represented - by him—saved the birthplace of Shakespeare from destruction. - </p> - <p> - At 3 P.M., May 6th, the ship slowed down, off the land, and thoughtfully - and cautiously picked her way into the snug harbor of Durban, South - Africa.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p643.jpg (7K)" src="images/p643.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch65" id="ch65"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXV. - </h2> - <p> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - <i>In statesmanship get the formalities right, never mind about the - moralities.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - FROM DIARY: - </p> - <p> - Royal Hotel. Comfortable, good table, good service of natives and - Madrasis. Curious jumble of modern and ancient city and village, - primitiveness and the other thing. Electric bells, but they don't ring. - Asked why they didn't, the watchman in the office said he thought they - must be out of order; he thought so because some of them rang, but most of - them didn't. Wouldn't it be a good idea to put them in order? He hesitated—like - one who isn't quite sure—then conceded the point. - </p> - <p> - May 7. A bang on the door at 6. Did I want my boots cleaned? Fifteen - minutes later another bang. Did we want coffee? Fifteen later, bang again, - my wife's bath ready; 15 later, my bath ready. Two other bangs; I forget - what they were about. Then lots of shouting back and forth, among the - servants just as in an Indian hotel. - </p> - <p> - Evening. At 4 P.M. it was unpleasantly warm. Half-hour after sunset one - needed a spring overcoat; by 8 a winter one. - </p> - <p> - Durban is a neat and clean town. One notices that without having his - attention called to it. - </p> - <p> - Rickshaws drawn by splendidly built black Zulus, so overflowing with - strength, seemingly, that it is a pleasure, not a pain, to see them snatch - a rickshaw along. They smile and laugh and show their teeth—a - good-natured lot. Not allowed to drink; 2s per hour for one person; 3s for - two; 3d for a course—one person. - </p> - <p> - The chameleon in the hotel court. He is fat and indolent and - contemplative; but is business-like and capable when a fly comes about—reaches - out a tongue like a teaspoon and takes him in. He gums his tongue first. - He is always pious, in his looks. And pious and thankful both, when - Providence or one of us sends him a fly. He has a froggy head, and a back - like a new grave—for shape; and hands like a bird's toes that have - been frostbitten. But his eyes are his exhibition feature. A couple of - skinny cones project from the sides of his head, with a wee shiny bead of - an eye set in the apex of each; and these cones turn bodily like - pivot-guns and point every-which-way, and they are independent of each - other; each has its own exclusive machinery. When I am behind him and C. - in front of him, he whirls one eye rearwards and the other forwards—which - gives him a most Congressional expression (one eye on the constituency and - one on the swag); and then if something happens above and below him he - shoots out one eye upward like a telescope and the other downward—and - this changes his expression, but does not improve it.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p645.jpg (18K)" src="images/p645.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Natives must not be out after the curfew bell without a pass. In Natal - there are ten blacks to one white. - </p> - <p> - Sturdy plump creatures are the women. They comb their wool up to a peak - and keep it in position by stiffening it with brown-red clay—half of - this tower colored, denotes engagement; the whole of it colored denotes - marriage.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p646.jpg (11K)" src="images/p646.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - None but heathen Zulus on the police; Christian ones not allowed. - </p> - <p> - May 9. A drive yesterday with friends over the Berea. Very fine roads and - lofty, overlooking the whole town, the harbor, and the sea-beautiful - views. Residences all along, set in the midst of green lawns with shrubs - and generally one or two intensely red outbursts of poinsettia—the - flaming splotch of blinding red a stunning contrast with the world of - surrounding green. The cactus tree—candelabrum-like; and one twisted - like gray writhing serpents. The "flat-crown" (should be flat-roof)—half - a dozen naked branches full of elbows, slant upward like artificial - supports, and fling a roof of delicate foliage out in a horizontal - platform as flat as a floor; and you look up through this thin floor as - through a green cobweb or veil. The branches are japanesich. All about you - is a bewildering variety of unfamiliar and beautiful trees; one sort - wonderfully dense foliage and very dark green—so dark that you - notice it at once, notwithstanding there are so many orange trees. The - "flamboyant"—not in flower, now, but when in flower lives up to its - name, we are told. Another tree with a lovely upright tassel scattered - among its rich greenery, red and glowing as a firecoal. Here and there a - gum-tree; half a dozen lofty Norfolk Island pines lifting their fronded - arms skyward. Groups of tall bamboo. - </p> - <p> - Saw one bird. Not many birds here, and they have no music—and the - flowers not much smell, they grow so fast. - </p> - <p> - Everything neat and trim and clean like the town. The loveliest trees and - the greatest variety I have ever seen anywhere, except approaching - Darjeeling. Have not heard anyone call Natal the garden of South Africa, - but that is what it probably is. - </p> - <p> - It was when Bishop of Natal that Colenso raised such a storm in the - religious world. The concerns of religion are a vital matter here yet. A - vigilant eye is kept upon Sunday. Museums and other dangerous resorts are - not allowed to be open. You may sail on the Bay, but it is wicked to play - cricket. For a while a Sunday concert was tolerated, upon condition that - it must be admission free and the money taken by collection. But the - collection was alarmingly large and that stopped the matter. They are - particular about babies. A clergyman would not bury a child according to - the sacred rites because it had not been baptized. The Hindoo is more - liberal. He burns no child under three, holding that it does not need - purifying. - </p> - <p> - The King of the Zulus, a fine fellow of 30, was banished six years ago for - a term of seven years. He is occupying Napoleon's old stand—St. - Helena. The people are a little nervous about having him come back, and - they may well be, for Zulu kings have been terrible people sometimes—like - Tchaka, Dingaan, and Cetewayo. - </p> - <p> - There is a large Trappist monastery two hours from Durban, over the - country roads, and in company with Mr. Milligan and Mr. Hunter, general - manager of the Natal government railways, who knew the heads of it, we - went out to see it. - </p> - <p> - There it all was, just as one reads about it in books and cannot believe - that it is so—I mean the rough, hard work, the impossible hours, the - scanty food, the coarse raiment, the Maryborough beds, the tabu of human - speech, of social intercourse, of relaxation, of amusement, of - entertainment, of the presence of woman in the men's establishment. There - it all was. It was not a dream, it was not a lie. And yet with the fact - before one's face it was still incredible. It is such a sweeping - suppression of human instincts, such an extinction of the man as an - individual.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p650.jpg (49K)" src="images/p650.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - La Trappe must have known the human race well. The scheme which he - invented hunts out everything that a man wants and values—and - withholds it from him. Apparently there is no detail that can help make - life worth living that has not been carefully ascertained and placed out - of the Trappist's reach. La Trappe must have known that there were men who - would enjoy this kind of misery, but how did he find it out? - </p> - <p> - If he had consulted you or me he would have been told that his scheme - lacked too many attractions; that it was impossible; that it could never - be floated. But there in the monastery was proof that he knew the human - race better than it knew itself. He set his foot upon every desire that a - man has—yet he floated his project, and it has prospered for two - hundred years, and will go on prospering forever, no doubt. - </p> - <p> - Man likes personal distinction—there in the monastery it is - obliterated. He likes delicious food—there he gets beans and bread - and tea, and not enough of it. He likes to lie softly—there he lies - on a sand mattress, and has a pillow and a blanket, but no sheet. When he - is dining, in a great company of friends, he likes to laugh and chat—there - a monk reads a holy book aloud during meals, and nobody speaks or laughs. - When a man has a hundred friends about him, evenings, he likes to have a - good time and run late—there he and the rest go silently to bed at - 8; and in the dark, too; there is but a loose brown robe to discard, there - are no night-clothes to put on, a light is not needed. Man likes to lie - abed late—there he gets up once or twice in the night to perform - some religious office, and gets up finally for the day at two in the - morning. Man likes light work or none at all—there he labors all day - in the field, or in the blacksmith shop or the other shops devoted to the - mechanical trades, such as shoemaking, saddlery, carpentry, and so on. Man - likes the society of girls and women—there he never has it. He likes - to have his children about him, and pet them and play with them—there - he has none. He likes billiards—there is no table there. He likes - outdoor sports and indoor dramatic and musical and social entertainments—there - are none there. He likes to bet on things—I was told that betting is - forbidden there. When a man's temper is up he likes to pour it out upon - somebody there this is not allowed. A man likes animals—pets; there - are none there. He likes to smoke—there he cannot do it. He likes to - read the news—no papers or magazines come there. A man likes to know - how his parents and brothers and sisters are getting along when he is - away, and if they miss him—there he cannot know. A man likes a - pretty house, and pretty furniture, and pretty things, and pretty colors—there - he has nothing but naked aridity and sombre colors. A man likes—name - it yourself: whatever it is, it is absent from that place. - </p> - <p> - From what I could learn, all that a man gets for this is merely the saving - of his soul. - </p> - <p> - It all seems strange, incredible, impossible. But La Trappe knew the race. - He knew the powerful attraction of unattractiveness; he knew that no life - could be imagined, howsoever comfortless and forbidding, but somebody - would want to try it. - </p> - <p> - This parent establishment of Germans began its work fifteen years ago, - strangers, poor, and unencouraged; it owns 15,000 acres of land now, and - raises grain and fruit, and makes wines, and manufactures all manner of - things, and has native apprentices in its shops, and sends them forth able - to read and write, and also well equipped to earn their living by their - trades. And this young establishment has set up eleven branches in South - Africa, and in them they are christianizing and educating and teaching - wage-yielding mechanical trades to 1,200 boys and girls. Protestant - Missionary work is coldly regarded by the commercial white colonist all - over the heathen world, as a rule, and its product is nicknamed - "rice-Christians" (occupationless incapables who join the church for - revenue only), but I think it would be difficult to pick a flaw in the - work of these Catholic monks, and I believe that the disposition to - attempt it has not shown itself. - </p> - <p> - Tuesday, May 12. Transvaal politics in a confused condition. First the - sentencing of the Johannesburg Reformers startled England by its severity; - on the top of this came Kruger's exposure of the cipher correspondence, - which showed that the invasion of the Transvaal, with the design of - seizing that country and adding it to the British Empire, was planned by - Cecil Rhodes and Beit—which made a revulsion in English feeling, and - brought out a storm against Rhodes and the Chartered Company for degrading - British honor. For a good while I couldn't seem to get at a clear - comprehension of it, it was so tangled. But at last by patient study I - have managed it, I believe. As I understand it, the Uitlanders and other - Dutchmen were dissatisfied because the English would not allow them to - take any part in the government except to pay taxes. Next, as I understand - it, Dr. Kruger and Dr. Jameson, not having been able to make the medical - business pay, made a raid into Matabeleland with the intention of - capturing the capital, Johannesburg, and holding the women and children to - ransom until the Uitlanders and the other Boers should grant to them and - the Chartered Company the political rights which had been withheld from - them. They would have succeeded in this great scheme, as I understand it, - but for the interference of Cecil Rhodes and Mr. Beit, and other Chiefs of - the Matabele, who persuaded their countrymen to revolt and throw off their - allegiance to Germany. This, in turn, as I understand it, provoked the - King of Abyssinia to destroy the Italian army and fall back upon - Johannesburg; this at the instigation of Rhodes, to bull the stock market.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p653.jpg (18K)" src="images/p653.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch66" id="ch66"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXVI. - </h2> - <p> - <i>Every one is a moon, and has a dark side which he never shows to - anybody.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - When I scribbled in my note-book a year ago the paragraph which ends the - preceding chapter, it was meant to indicate, in an extravagant form, two - things: the conflicting nature of the information conveyed by the citizen - to the stranger concerning South African politics, and the resulting - confusion created in the stranger's mind thereby. - </p> - <p> - But it does not seem so very extravagant now. Nothing could in that - disturbed and excited time make South African politics clear or quite - rational to the citizen of the country because his personal interest and - his political prejudices were in his way; and nothing could make those - politics clear or rational to the stranger, the sources of his information - being such as they were.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p655.jpg (48K)" src="images/p655.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - I was in South Africa some little time. When I arrived there the political - pot was boiling fiercely. Four months previously, Jameson had plunged over - the Transvaal border with about 600 armed horsemen at his back, to go to - the "relief of the women and children" of Johannesburg; on the fourth day - of his march the Boers had defeated him in battle, and carried him and his - men to Pretoria, the capital, as prisoners; the Boer government had turned - Jameson and his officers over to the British government for trial, and - shipped them to England; next, it had arrested 64 important citizens of - Johannesburg as raid-conspirators, condemned their four leaders to death, - then commuted the sentences, and now the 64 were waiting, in jail, for - further results. Before midsummer they were all out excepting two, who - refused to sign the petitions for release; 58 had been fined $10,000 each - and enlarged, and the four leaders had gotten off with fines of $125,000 - each with permanent exile added, in one case. - </p> - <p> - Those were wonderfully interesting days for a stranger, and I was glad to - be in the thick of the excitement. Everybody was talking, and I expected - to understand the whole of one side of it in a very little while. - </p> - <p> - I was disappointed. There were singularities, perplexities, - unaccountabilities about it which I was not able to master. I had no - personal access to Boers—their side was a secret to me, aside from - what I was able to gather of it from published statements. My sympathies - were soon with the Reformers in the Pretoria jail, with their friends, and - with their cause. By diligent inquiry in Johannesburg I found out—apparently—all - the details of their side of the quarrel except one—what they - expected to accomplish by an armed rising. - </p> - <p> - Nobody seemed to know. - </p> - <p> - The reason why the Reformers were discontented and wanted some changes - made, seemed quite clear. In Johannesburg it was claimed that the - Uitlanders (strangers, foreigners) paid thirteen-fifteenths of the - Transvaal taxes, yet got little or nothing for it. Their city had no - charter; it had no municipal government; it could levy no taxes for - drainage, water-supply, paving, cleaning, sanitation, policing. There was - a police force, but it was composed of Boers, it was furnished by the - State Government, and the city had no control over it. Mining was very - costly; the government enormously increased the cost by putting burdensome - taxes upon the mines, the output, the machinery, the buildings; by - burdensome imposts upon incoming materials; by burdensome - railway-freight-charges. Hardest of all to bear, the government reserved - to itself a monopoly in that essential thing, dynamite, and burdened it - with an extravagant price. The detested Hollander from over the water held - all the public offices. The government was rank with corruption. The - Uitlander had no vote, and must live in the State ten or twelve years - before he could get one. He was not represented in the Raad (legislature) - that oppressed him and fleeced him. Religion was not free. There were no - schools where the teaching was in English, yet the great majority of the - white population of the State knew no tongue but that. The State would not - pass a liquor law; but allowed a great trade in cheap vile brandy among - the blacks, with the result that 25 per cent. of the 50,000 blacks - employed in the mines were usually drunk and incapable of working. - </p> - <p> - There—it was plain enough that the reasons for wanting some changes - made were abundant and reasonable, if this statement of the existing - grievances was correct. - </p> - <p> - What the Uitlanders wanted was reform—under the existing Republic. - </p> - <p> - What they proposed to do was to secure these reforms by, prayer, petition, - and persuasion. - </p> - <p> - They did petition. Also, they issued a Manifesto, whose very first note is - a bugle-blast of loyalty: "We want the establishment of this Republic as a - true Republic." - </p> - <p> - Could anything be clearer than the Uitlander's statement of the grievances - and oppressions under which they were suffering? Could anything be more - legal and citizen-like and law-respecting than their attitude as expressed - by their Manifesto? No. Those things were perfectly clear, perfectly - comprehensible. - </p> - <p> - But at this point the puzzles and riddles and confusions begin to flock - in. You have arrived at a place which you cannot quite understand. - </p> - <p> - For you find that as a preparation for this loyal, lawful, and in every - way unexceptionable attempt to persuade the government to right their - grievances, the Uitlanders had smuggled a Maxim gun or two and 1,500 - muskets into the town, concealed in oil tanks and coal cars, and had begun - to form and drill military companies composed of clerks, merchants, and - citizens generally. - </p> - <p> - What was their idea? Did they suppose that the Boers would attack them for - petitioning, for redress? That could not be. - </p> - <p> - Did they suppose that the Boers would attack them even for issuing a - Manifesto demanding relief under the existing government? - </p> - <p> - Yes, they apparently believed so, because the air was full of talk of - forcing the government to grant redress if it were not granted peacefully. - </p> - <p> - The Reformers were men of high intelligence. If they were in earnest, they - were taking extraordinary risks. They had enormously valuable properties - to defend; their town was full of women and children; their mines and - compounds were packed with thousands upon thousands of sturdy blacks. If - the Boers attacked, the mines would close, the blacks would swarm out and - get drunk; riot and conflagration and the Boers together might lose the - Reformers more in a day, in money, blood, and suffering, than the desired - political relief could compensate in ten years if they won the fight and - secured the reforms. - </p> - <p> - It is May, 1897, now; a year has gone by, and the confusions of that day - have been to a considerable degree cleared away. Mr. Cecil Rhodes, Dr. - Jameson, and others responsible for the Raid, have testified before the - Parliamentary Committee of Inquiry in London, and so have Mr. Lionel - Phillips and other Johannesburg Reformers, monthly-nurses of the - Revolution which was born dead. These testimonies have thrown light. Three - books have added much to this light: - </p> - <p> - "South Africa As It Is," by Mr. Statham, an able writer partial to the - Boers; "The Story of an African Crisis," by Mr. Garrett, a brilliant - writer partial to Rhodes; and "A Woman's Part in a Revolution," by Mrs. - John Hays Hammond, a vigorous and vivid diarist, partial to the Reformers. - By liquifying the evidence of the prejudiced books and of the prejudiced - parliamentary witnesses and stirring the whole together and pouring it - into my own (prejudiced) moulds, I have got at the truth of that puzzling - South African situation, which is this: - </p> - <p> - 1. The capitalists and other chief men of Johannesburg were fretting under - various political and financial burdens imposed by the State (the South - African Republic, sometimes called "the Transvaal") and desired to procure - by peaceful means a modification of the laws. - </p> - <p> - 2. Mr. Cecil Rhodes, Premier of the British Cape Colony, millionaire, - creator and managing director of the territorially-immense and financially - unproductive South Africa Company; projector of vast schemes for the - unification and consolidation of all the South African States, one - imposing commonwealth or empire under the shadow and general protection of - the British flag, thought he saw an opportunity to make profitable use of - the Uitlander discontent above mentioned—make the Johannesburg cat - help pull out one of his consolidation chestnuts for him. With this view - he set himself the task of warming the lawful and legitimate petitions and - supplications of the Uitlanders into seditious talk, and their frettings - into threatenings—the final outcome to be revolt and armed - rebellion. If he could bring about a bloody collision between those people - and the Boer government, Great Britain would have to interfere; her - interference would be resisted by the Boers; she would chastise them and - add the Transvaal to her South African possessions. It was not a foolish - idea, but a rational and practical one. - </p> - <p> - After a couple of years of judicious plotting, Mr. Rhodes had his reward; - the revolutionary kettle was briskly boiling in Johannesburg, and the - Uitlander leaders were backing their appeals to the government—now - hardened into demands—by threats of force and bloodshed. By the - middle of December, 1895, the explosion seemed imminent. Mr. Rhodes was - diligently helping, from his distant post in Cape Town. He was helping to - procure arms for Johannesburg; he was also arranging to have Jameson break - over the border and come to Johannesburg with 600 mounted men at his back. - Jameson—as per instructions from Rhodes, perhaps—wanted a - letter from the Reformers requesting him to come to their aid. It was a - good idea. It would throw a considerable share of the responsibility of - his invasion upon the Reformers. He got the letter—that famous one - urging him to fly to the rescue of the women and children. He got it two - months before he flew. The Reformers seem to have thought it over and - concluded that they had not done wisely; for the next day after giving - Jameson the implicating document they wanted to withdraw it and leave the - women and children in danger; but they were told that it was too late. The - original had gone to Mr. Rhodes at the Cape. Jameson had kept a copy, - though. - </p> - <p> - From that time until the 29th of December, a good deal of the Reformers' - time was taken up with energetic efforts to keep Jameson from coming to - their assistance. Jameson's invasion had been set for the 26th. The - Reformers were not ready. The town was not united. Some wanted a fight, - some wanted peace; some wanted a new government, some wanted the existing - one reformed; apparently very few wanted the revolution to take place in - the interest and under the ultimate shelter of the Imperial flag—British; - yet a report began to spread that Mr. Rhodes's embarrassing assistance had - for its end this latter object. - </p> - <p> - Jameson was away up on the frontier tugging at his leash, fretting to - burst over the border. By hard work the Reformers got his starting-date - postponed a little, and wanted to get it postponed eleven days. - Apparently, Rhodes's agents were seconding their efforts—in fact - wearing out the telegraph wires trying to hold him back. Rhodes was - himself the only man who could have effectively postponed Jameson, but - that would have been a disadvantage to his scheme; indeed, it could spoil - his whole two years' work. - </p> - <p> - Jameson endured postponement three days, then resolved to wait no longer. - Without any orders—excepting Mr. Rhodes's significant silence—he - cut the telegraph wires on the 29th, and made his plunge that night, to go - to the rescue of the women and children, by urgent request of a letter now - nine days old—as per date,—a couple of months old, in fact. He - read the letter to his men, and it affected them. It did not affect all of - them alike. Some saw in it a piece of piracy of doubtful wisdom, and were - sorry to find that they had been assembled to violate friendly territory - instead of to raid native kraals, as they had supposed. - </p> - <p> - Jameson would have to ride 150 miles. He knew that there were suspicions - abroad in the Transvaal concerning him, but he expected to get through to - Johannesburg before they should become general and obstructive. But a - telegraph wire had been overlooked and not cut. It spread the news of his - invasion far and wide, and a few hours after his start the Boer farmers - were riding hard from every direction to intercept him.<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p664.jpg (74K)" src="images/p664.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - As soon as it was known in Johannesburg that he was on his way to rescue - the women and children, the grateful people put the women and children in - a train and rushed them for Australia. In fact, the approach of - Johannesburg's saviour created panic and consternation there, and a - multitude of males of peaceable disposition swept to the trains like a - sand-storm. The early ones fared best; they secured seats—by sitting - in them—eight hours before the first train was timed to leave. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Rhodes lost no time. He cabled the renowned Johannesburg letter of - invitation to the London press—the gray-headedest piece of ancient - history that ever went over a cable. - </p> - <p> - The new poet laureate lost no time. He came out with a rousing poem - lauding Jameson's prompt and splendid heroism in flying to the rescue of - the women and children; for the poet could not know that he did not fly - until two months after the invitation. He was deceived by the false date - of the letter, which was December 20th. - </p> - <p> - Jameson was intercepted by the Boers on New Year's Day, and on the next - day he surrendered. He had carried his copy of the letter along, and if - his instructions required him—in case of emergency—to see that - it fell into the hands of the Boers, he loyally carried them out. Mrs. - Hammond gives him a sharp rap for his supposed carelessness, and - emphasizes her feeling about it with burning italics: "It was picked up on - the battle-field in a leathern pouch, supposed to be Dr. Jameson's - saddle-bag. <i>Why, in the name of all that is discreet and honorable, - didn't he eat it!</i>" - </p> - <p> - She requires too much. He was not in the service of the Reformers—excepting - ostensibly; he was in the service of Mr. Rhodes. It was the only plain - English document, undarkened by ciphers and mysteries, and responsibly - signed and authenticated, which squarely implicated the Reformers in the - raid, and it was not to Mr. Rhodes's interest that it should be eaten. - Besides, that letter was not the original, it was only a copy. Mr. Rhodes - had the original—and didn't eat it. He cabled it to the London - press. It had already been read in England and America and all over Europe - before Jameson dropped it on the battlefield. If the subordinate's - knuckles deserved a rap, the principal's deserved as many as a couple of - them. - </p> - <p> - That letter is a juicily dramatic incident and is entitled to all its - celebrity, because of the odd and variegated effects which it produced. - All within the space of a single week it had made Jameson an illustrious - hero in England, a pirate in Pretoria, and an ass without discretion or - honor in Johannesburg; also it had produced a poet-laureatic explosion of - colored fireworks which filled the world's sky with giddy splendors, and, - the knowledge that Jameson was coming with it to rescue the women and - children emptied Johannesburg of that detail of the population. For an old - letter, this was much. For a letter two months old, it did marvels; if it - had been a year old it would have done miracles. <<br><br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch67" id="ch67"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXVII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>First catch your Boer, then kick him.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Those latter days were days of bitter worry and trouble for the harassed - Reformers. - </p> - <p> - From Mrs. Hammond we learn that on the 31st (the day after Johannesburg - heard of the invasion), "The Reform Committee repudiates Dr. Jameson's - inroad." - </p> - <p> - It also publishes its intention to adhere to the Manifesto. - </p> - <p> - It also earnestly desires that the inhabitants shall refrain from overt - acts against the Boer government. - </p> - <p> - It also "distributes arms" at the Court House, and furnishes horses "to - the newly-enrolled volunteers." - </p> - <p> - It also brings a Transvaal flag into the committee-room, and the entire - body swear allegiance to it "with uncovered heads and upraised arms." - </p> - <p> - Also "one thousand Lee-Metford rifles have been given out"—to - rebels. - </p> - <p> - Also, in a speech, Reformer Lionel Phillips informs the public that the - Reform Committee Delegation has "been received with courtesy by the - Government Commission," and "been assured that their proposals shall be - earnestly considered." That "while the Reform Committee regretted - Jameson's precipitate action, they would stand by him." - </p> - <p> - Also the populace are in a state of "wild enthusiasm," and "can scarcely - be restrained; they want to go out to meet Jameson and bring him in with - triumphal outcry." - </p> - <p> - Also the British High Commissioner has issued a damnifying proclamation - against Jameson and all British abettors of his game. It arrives January - 1st. - </p> - <p> - It is a difficult position for the Reformers, and full of hindrances and - perplexities. Their duty is hard, but plain: - </p> - <p> - 1. They have to repudiate the inroad, and stand by the inroader. - </p> - <p> - 2. They have to swear allegiance to the Boer government, and distribute - cavalry horses to the rebels. - </p> - <p> - 3. They have to forbid overt acts against the Boer government, and - distribute arms to its enemies. - </p> - <p> - 4. They have to avoid collision with the British government, but still - stand by Jameson and their new oath of allegiance to the Boer government, - taken, uncovered, in presence of its flag. - </p> - <p> - They did such of these things as they could; they tried to do them all; in - fact, did do them all, but only in turn, not simultaneously. In the nature - of things they could not be made to simultane. - </p> - <p> - In preparing for armed revolution and in talking revolution, were the - Reformers "bluffing," or were they in earnest? If they were in earnest, - they were taking great risks—as has been already pointed out. A - gentleman of high position told me in Johannesburg that he had in his - possession a printed document proclaiming a new government and naming its - president—one of the Reform leaders. He said that this proclamation - had been ready for issue, but was suppressed when the raid collapsed. - Perhaps I misunderstood him. Indeed, I must have misunderstood him, for I - have not seen mention of this large incident in print anywhere. - </p> - <p> - Besides, I hope I am mistaken; for, if I am, then there is argument that - the Reformers were privately not serious, but were only trying to scare - the Boer government into granting the desired reforms. - </p> - <p> - The Boer government was scared, and it had a right to be. For if Mr. - Rhodes's plan was to provoke a collision that would compel the - interference of England, that was a serious matter. If it could be shown - that that was also the Reformers' plan and purpose, it would prove that - they had marked out a feasible project, at any rate, although it was one - which could hardly fail to cost them ruinously before England should - arrive. But it seems clear that they had no such plan nor desire. If, when - the worst should come to the worst, they meant to overthrow the - government, they also meant to inherit the assets themselves, no doubt. - </p> - <p> - This scheme could hardly have succeeded. With an army of Boers at their - gates and 50,000 riotous blacks in their midst, the odds against success - would have been too heavy—even if the whole town had been armed. - With only 2,500 rifles in the place, they stood really no chance. - </p> - <p> - To me, the military problems of the situation are of more interest than - the political ones, because by disposition I have always been especially - fond of war. No, I mean fond of discussing war; and fond of giving - military advice. If I had been with Jameson the morning after he started, - I should have advised him to turn back. That was Monday; it was then that - he received his first warning from a Boer source not to violate the - friendly soil of the Transvaal. It showed that his invasion was known. If - I had been with him on Tuesday morning and afternoon, when he received - further warnings, I should have repeated my advice. If I had been with him - the next morning—New Year's—when he received notice that "a - few hundred" Boers were waiting for him a few miles ahead, I should not - have advised, but commanded him to go back. And if I had been with him two - or three hours later—a thing not conceivable to me—I should - have retired him by force; for at that time he learned that the few - hundred had now grown to 800; and that meant that the growing would go on - growing. - </p> - <p> - For, by authority of Mr. Garrett, one knows that Jameson's 600 were only - 530 at most, when you count out his native drivers, etc.; and that the 530 - consisted largely of "green" youths, "raw young fellows," not trained and - war-worn British soldiers; and I would have told Jameson that those lads - would not be able to shoot effectively from horseback in the scamper and - racket of battle, and that there would not be anything for them to shoot - at, anyway, but rocks; for the Boers would be behind the rocks, not out in - the open. I would have told him that 300 Boer sharpshooters behind rocks - would be an overmatch for his 500 raw young fellows on horseback.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p670.jpg (31K)" src="images/p670.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - If pluck were the only thing essential to battle-winning, the English - would lose no battles. But discretion, as well as pluck, is required when - one fights Boers and Red Indians. In South Africa the Briton has always - insisted upon standing bravely up, unsheltered, before the hidden Boer, - and taking the results: Jameson's men would follow the custom. Jameson - would not have listened to me—he would have been intent upon - repeating history, according to precedent. Americans are not acquainted - with the British-Boer war of 1881; but its history is interesting, and - could have been instructive to Jameson if he had been receptive. I will - cull some details of it from trustworthy sources mainly from "Russell's - Natal." Mr. Russell is not a Boer, but a Briton. He is inspector of - schools, and his history is a text-book whose purpose is the instruction - of the Natal English youth. - </p> - <p> - After the seizure of the Transvaal and the suppression of the Boer - government by England in 1877, the Boers fretted for three years, and made - several appeals to England for a restoration of their liberties, but - without result. Then they gathered themselves together in a great - mass-meeting at Krugersdorp, talked their troubles over, and resolved to - fight for their deliverance from the British yoke. (Krugersdorp—the - place where the Boers interrupted the Jameson raid.) The little handful of - farmers rose against the strongest empire in the world. They proclaimed - martial law and the re-establishment of their Republic. They organized - their forces and sent them forward to intercept the British battalions. - This, although Sir Garnet Wolseley had but lately made proclamation that - "so long as the sun shone in the heavens," the Transvaal would be and - remain English territory. And also in spite of the fact that the commander - of the 94th regiment—already on the march to suppress this rebellion—had - been heard to say that "the Boers would turn tail at the first beat of the - big drum."—["South Africa As It Is," by F. Reginald Statham, page - 82. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1897.] - </p> - <p> - Four days after the flag-raising, the Boer force which had been sent - forward to forbid the invasion of the English troops met them at - Bronkhorst Spruit—246 men of the 94th regiment, in command of a - colonel, the big drum beating, the band playing—and the first battle - was fought. It lasted ten minutes. Result: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - British loss, more than 150 officers and men, out of the 246. Surrender - of the remnant. - </p> - <p> - Boer loss—if any—not stated. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - They are fine marksmen, the Boers. From the cradle up, they live on - horseback and hunt wild animals with the rifle. They have a passion for - liberty and the Bible, and care for nothing else. - </p> - <p> - "General Sir George Colley, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief in - Natal, felt it his duty to proceed at once to the relief of the loyalists - and soldiers beleaguered in the different towns of the Transvaal." He - moved out with 1,000 men and some artillery. He found the Boers encamped - in a strong and sheltered position on high ground at Laing's Nek—every - Boer behind a rock. Early in the morning of the 28th January, 1881, he - moved to the attack "with the 58th regiment, commanded by Colonel Deane, a - mounted squadron of 70 men, the 60th Rifles, the Naval Brigade with three - rocket tubes, and the Artillery with six guns." He shelled the Boers for - twenty minutes, then the assault was delivered, the 58th marching up the - slope in solid column. The battle was soon finished, with this result, - according to Russell— - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - British loss in killed and wounded, 174. - </p> - <p> - Boer loss, "trifling." - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - Colonel Deane was killed, and apparently every officer above the grade of - lieutenant was killed or wounded, for the 58th retreated to its camp in - command of a lieutenant. ("Africa as It Is.") - </p> - <p> - That ended the second battle. - </p> - <p> - On the 7th of February General Colley discovered that the Boers were - flanking his position. The next morning he left his camp at Mount Pleasant - and marched out and crossed the Ingogo river with 270 men, started up the - Ingogo heights, and there fought a battle which lasted from noon till - nightfall. He then retreated, leaving his wounded with his military - chaplain, and in recrossing the now swollen river lost some of his men by - drowning. That was the third Boer victory. Result, according to Mr. - Russell— - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - British loss 150 out of 270 engaged. - </p> - <p> - Boer loss, 8 killed, 9 wounded—17. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - There was a season of quiet, now, but at the end of about three weeks Sir - George Colley conceived the idea of climbing, with an infantry and - artillery force, the steep and rugged mountain of Amajuba in the night—a - bitter hard task, but he accomplished it. On the way he left about 200 men - to guard a strategic point, and took about 400 up the mountain with him. - When the sun rose in the morning, there was an unpleasant surprise for the - Boers; yonder were the English troops visible on top of the mountain two - or three miles away, and now their own position was at the mercy of the - English artillery. The Boer chief resolved to retreat—up that - mountain. He asked for volunteers, and got them. - </p> - <p> - The storming party crossed the swale and began to creep up the steeps, - "and from behind rocks and bushes they shot at the soldiers on the skyline - as if they were stalking deer," says Mr. Russell. There was "continuous - musketry fire, steady and fatal on the one side, wild and ineffectual on - the other." The Boers reached the top, and began to put in their ruinous - work. Presently the British "broke and fled for their lives down the - rugged steep." The Boers had won the battle. Result in killed and wounded, - including among the killed the British General: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - British loss, 226, out of 400 engaged. - </p> - <p> - Boer loss, 1 killed, 5 wounded. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - That ended the war. England listened to reason, and recognized the Boer - Republic—a government which has never been in any really awful - danger since, until Jameson started after it with his 500 "raw young - fellows." To recapitulate: - </p> - <p> - The Boer farmers and British soldiers fought 4 battles, and the Boers won - them all. Result of the 4, in killed and wounded: - </p> - <blockquote> - <p> - British loss, 700 men. - </p> - <p> - Boer loss, so far as known, 23 men. - </p> - </blockquote> - <p> - It is interesting, now, to note how loyally Jameson and his several - trained British military officers tried to make their battles conform to - precedent. Mr. Garrett's account of the Raid is much the best one I have - met with, and my impressions of the Raid are drawn from that.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p675.jpg (62K)" src="images/p675.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - When Jameson learned that near Krugersdorp he would find 800 Boers waiting - to dispute his passage, he was not in the least disturbed. He was feeling - as he had felt two or three days before, when he had opened his campaign - with a historic remark to the same purport as the one with which the - commander of the 94th had opened the Boer-British war of fourteen years - before. That Commander's remark was, that the Boers "would turn tail at - the first beat of the big drum." Jameson's was, that with his "raw young - fellows" he could kick the (persons) of the Boers "all round the - Transvaal." He was keeping close to historic precedent. - </p> - <p> - Jameson arrived in the presence of the Boers. They—according to - precedent—were not visible. It was a country of ridges, depressions, - rocks, ditches, moraines of mining-tailings—not even as favorable - for cavalry work as Laing's Nek had been in the former disastrous days. - Jameson shot at the ridges and rocks with his artillery, just as General - Colley had done at the Nek; and did them no damage and persuaded no Boer - to show himself. Then about a hundred of his men formed up to charge the - ridge-according to the 58th's precedent at the Nek; but as they dashed - forward they opened out in a long line, which was a considerable - improvement on the 58th's tactics; when they had gotten to within 200 - yards of the ridge the concealed Boers opened out on them and emptied 20 - saddles. The unwounded dismounted and fired at the rocks over the backs of - their horses; but the return-fire was too hot, and they mounted again, - "and galloped back or crawled away into a clump of reeds for cover, where - they were shortly afterward taken prisoners as they lay among the reeds. - Some thirty prisoners were so taken, and during the night which followed - the Boers carried away another thirty killed and wounded—the wounded - to Krugersdorp hospital. "Sixty per cent. of the assaulted force disposed - of"—according to Mr. Garrett's estimate. - </p> - <p> - It was according to Amajuba precedent, where the British loss was 226 out - of about 400 engaged. - </p> - <p> - Also, in Jameson's camp, that night, "there lay about 30 wounded or - otherwise disabled" men. Also during the night "some 30 or 40 young - fellows got separated from the command and straggled through into - Johannesburg." Altogether a possible 150 men gone, out of his 530. His - lads had fought valorously, but had not been able to get near enough to a - Boer to kick him around the Transvaal. - </p> - <p> - At dawn the next morning the column of something short of 400 whites - resumed its march. Jameson's grit was stubbornly good; indeed, it was - always that. He still had hopes. There was a long and tedious zigzagging - march through broken ground, with constant harassment from the Boers; and - at last the column "walked into a sort of trap," and the Boers "closed in - upon it." "Men and horses dropped on all sides. In the column the feeling - grew that unless it could burst through the Boer lines at this point it - was done for. The Maxims were fired until they grew too hot, and, water - failing for the cool jacket, five of them jammed and went out of action. - The 7-pounder was fired until only half an hour's ammunition was left to - fire with. One last rush was made, and failed, and then the Staats - Artillery came up on the left flank, and the game was up." - </p> - <p> - Jameson hoisted a white flag and surrendered. - </p> - <p> - There is a story, which may not be true, about an ignorant Boer farmer - there who thought that this white flag was the national flag of England. - He had been at Bronkhorst, and Laing's Nek, and Ingogo and Amajuba, and - supposed that the English did not run up their flag excepting at the end - of a fight.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p678.jpg (33K)" src="images/p678.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The following is (as I understand it) Mr. Garrett's estimate of Jameson's - total loss in killed and wounded for the two days: - </p> - <p> - "When they gave in they were minus some 20 per cent. of combatants. There - were 76 casualties. There were 30 men hurt or sick in the wagons. There - were 27 killed on the spot or mortally wounded." - </p> - <p> - Total, 133, out of the original 530. It is just 25 per cent.—[However, - I judge that the total was really 150; for the number of wounded carried - to Krugersdorp hospital was 53; not 30, as Mr. Garrett reports it. The - lady whose guest I was in Krugersdorp gave me the figures. She was head - nurse from the beginning of hostilities (Jan. 1) until the professional - nurses arrived, Jan. 8th. Of the 53, "Three or four were Boers"; I quote - her words.]—This is a large improvement upon the precedents - established at Bronkhorst, Laing's Nek, Ingogo, and Amajuba, and seems to - indicate that Boer marksmanship is not so good now as it was in those - days. But there is one detail in which the Raid-episode exactly repeats - history. By surrender at Bronkhorst, the whole British force disappeared - from the theater of war; this was the case with Jameson's force. - </p> - <p> - In the Boer loss, also, historical precedent is followed with sufficient - fidelity. In the 4 battles named above, the Boer loss, so far as known, - was an average of 6 men per battle, to the British average loss of 175. In - Jameson's battles, as per Boer official report, the Boer loss in killed - was 4. Two of these were killed by the Boers themselves, by accident, the - other by Jameson's army—one of them intentionally, the other by a - pathetic mischance. "A young Boer named Jacobz was moving forward to give - a drink to one of the wounded troopers (Jameson's) after the first charge, - when another wounded man, mistaking his intention; shot him." There were - three or four wounded Boers in the Krugersdorp hospital, and apparently no - others have been reported. Mr. Garrett, "on a balance of probabilities, - fully accepts the official version, and thanks Heaven the killed was not - larger." - </p> - <p> - As a military man, I wish to point out what seems to me to be military - errors in the conduct of the campaign which we have just been considering. - I have seen active service in the field, and it was in the actualities of - war that I acquired my training and my right to speak. I served two weeks - in the beginning of our Civil War, and during all that time commanded a - battery of infantry composed of twelve men. General Grant knew the history - of my campaign, for I told it him. I also told him the principle upon - which I had conducted it; which was, to tire the enemy. I tired out and - disqualified many battalions, yet never had a casualty myself nor lost a - man. General Grant was not given to paying compliments, yet he said - frankly that if I had conducted the whole war much bloodshed would have - been spared, and that what the army might have lost through the - inspiriting results of collision in the field would have been amply made - up by the liberalizing influences of travel. Further endorsement does not - seem to me to be necessary.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p681.jpg (65K)" src="images/p681.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Let us now examine history, and see what it teaches. In the 4 battles - fought in 1881 and the two fought by Jameson, the British loss in killed, - wounded, and prisoners, was substantially 1,300 men; the Boer loss, as far - as is ascertainable, was about 30 men. These figures show that there was a - defect somewhere. It was not in the absence of courage. I think it lay in - the absence of discretion. The Briton should have done one thing or the - other: discarded British methods and fought the Boer with Boer methods, or - augmented his own force until—using British methods—it should - be large enough to equalize results with the Boer. - </p> - <p> - To retain the British method requires certain things, determinable by - arithmetic. If, for argument's sake, we allow that the aggregate of 1,716 - British soldiers engaged in the 4 early battles was opposed by the same - aggregate of Boers, we have this result: the British loss of 700 and the - Boer loss of 23 argues that in order to equalize results in future battles - you must make the British force thirty times as strong as the Boer force. - Mr. Garrett shows that the Boer force immediately opposed to Jameson was - 2,000, and that there were 6,000 more on hand by the evening of the second - day. Arithmetic shows that in order to make himself the equal of the 8,000 - Boers, Jameson should have had 240,000 men, whereas he merely had 530 - boys. From a military point of view, backed by the facts of history, I - conceive that Jameson's military judgment was at fault. - </p> - <p> - Another thing.—Jameson was encumbered by artillery, ammunition, and - rifles. The facts of the battle show that he should have had none of those - things along. They were heavy, they were in his way, they impeded his - march. There was nothing to shoot at but rocks—he knew quite well - that there would be nothing to shoot at but rocks—and he knew that - artillery and rifles have no effect upon rocks. He was badly overloaded - with unessentials. He had 8 Maxims—a Maxim is a kind of Gatling, I - believe, and shoots about 500 bullets per minute; he had one 12 - 1/2-pounder cannon and two 7-pounders; also, 145,000 rounds of ammunition. - He worked the Maxims so hard upon the rocks that five of them became - disabled—five of the Maxims, not the rocks. It is believed that - upwards of 100,000 rounds of ammunition of the various kinds were fired - during the 21 hours that the battles lasted. One man killed. He must have - been much mutilated. It was a pity to bring those futile Maxims along. - Jameson should have furnished himself with a battery of Pudd'nhead Wilson - maxims instead. They are much more deadly than those others, and they are - easily carried, because they have no weight. - </p> - <p> - Mr. Garrett—not very carefully concealing a smile—excuses the - presence of the Maxims by saying that they were of very substantial use - because their sputtering disordered the aim of the Boers, and in that way - saved lives. - </p> - <p> - Three cannon, eight Maxims, and five hundred rifles yielded a result which - emphasized a fact which had already been established—that the - British system of standing out in the open to fight Boers who are behind - rocks is not wise, not excusable, and ought to be abandoned for something - more efficacious. For the purpose of war is to kill, not merely to waste - ammunition. - </p> - <p> - If I could get the management of one of those campaigns, I would know what - to do, for I have studied the Boer. He values the Bible above every other - thing. The most delicious edible in South Africa is "biltong." You will - have seen it mentioned in Olive Schreiner's books. It is what our - plainsmen call "jerked beef." It is the Boer's main standby. He has a - passion for it, and he is right. - </p> - <p> - If I had the command of the campaign I would go with rifles only, no - cumbersome Maxims and cannon to spoil good rocks with. I would move - surreptitiously by night to a point about a quarter of a mile from the - Boer camp, and there I would build up a pyramid of biltong and Bibles - fifty feet high, and then conceal my men all about. In the morning the - Boers would send out spies, and then the rest would come with a rush. I - would surround them, and they would have to fight my men on equal terms, - in the open. There wouldn't be any Amajuba results. - </p> - <p> - —[Just as I am finishing this book an unfortunate dispute has sprung - up between Dr. Jameson and his officers, on the one hand, and Colonel - Rhodes on the other, concerning the wording of a note which Colonel Rhodes - sent from Johannesburg by a cyclist to Jameson just before hostilities - began on the memorable New Year's Day. Some of the fragments of this note - were found on the battlefield after the fight, and these have been pieced - together; the dispute is as to what words the lacking fragments contained. - Jameson says the note promised him a reinforcement of 300 men from - Johannesburg. Colonel Rhodes denies this, and says he merely promised to - send out "some" men "to meet you."] - </p> - <p> - [It seems a pity that these friends should fall out over so little a - thing. If the 300 had been sent, what good would it have done? In 21 hours - of industrious fighting, Jameson's 530 men, with 8 Maxims, 3 cannon, and - 145,000 rounds of ammunition, killed an aggregate of 1 Boer. These - statistics show that a reinforcement of 300 Johannesburgers, armed merely - with muskets, would have killed, at the outside, only a little over a half - of another Boer. This would not have saved the day. It would not even have - seriously affected the general result. The figures show clearly, and with - mathematical violence, that the only way to save Jameson, or even give him - a fair and equal chance with the enemy, was for Johannesburg to send him - 240 Maxims, 90 cannon, 600 carloads of ammunition, and 240,000 men. - Johannesburg was not in a position to do this. Johannesburg has been - called very hard names for not reinforcing Jameson. But in every instance - this has been done by two classes of persons—people who do not read - history, and people, like Jameson, who do not understand what it means, - after they have read it.]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p684.jpg (59K)" src="images/p684.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch68" id="ch68"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXVIII. - </h2> - <p> - <i>None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its - cussedness; but we can try.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - The Duke of Fife has borne testimony that Mr. Rhodes deceived him. That is - also what Mr. Rhodes did with the Reformers. He got them into trouble, and - then stayed out himself. A judicious man. He has always been that. As to - this there was a moment of doubt, once. It was when he was out on his last - pirating expedition in the Matabele country. The cable shouted out that he - had gone unarmed, to visit a party of hostile chiefs. It was true, too; - and this dare-devil thing came near fetching another indiscretion out of - the poet laureate. It would have been too bad, for when the facts were all - in, it turned out that there was a lady along, too, and she also was - unarmed. - </p> - <p> - In the opinion of many people Mr. Rhodes is South Africa; others think he - is only a large part of it. These latter consider that South Africa - consists of Table Mountain, the diamond mines, the Johannesburg gold - fields, and Cecil Rhodes. The gold fields are wonderful in every way. In - seven or eight years they built up, in a desert, a city of a hundred - thousand inhabitants, counting white and black together; and not the - ordinary mining city of wooden shanties, but a city made out of lasting - material. Nowhere in the world is there such a concentration of rich mines - as at Johannesburg. Mr. Bonamici, my manager there, gave me a small gold - brick with some statistics engraved upon it which record the output of - gold from the early days to July, 1895, and exhibit the strides which have - been made in the development of the industry; in 1888 the output was - $4,162,440; the output of the next five and a half years was (total) - $17,585,894); for the single year ending with June, 1895, it was - $45,553,700. - </p> - <p> - The capital which has developed the mines came from England, the mining - engineers from America. This is the case with the diamond mines also. - South Africa seems to be the heaven of the American scientific mining - engineer. He gets the choicest places, and keeps them. His salary is not - based upon what he would get in America, but apparently upon what a whole - family of him would get there. - </p> - <p> - The successful mines pay great dividends, yet the rock is not rich, from a - Californian point of view. Rock which yields ten or twelve dollars a ton - is considered plenty rich enough. It is troubled with base metals to such - a degree that twenty years ago it would have been only about half as - valuable as it is now; for at that time there was no paying way of getting - anything out of such rock but the coarser-grained "free" gold; but the new - cyanide process has changed all that, and the gold fields of the world now - deliver up fifty million dollars' worth of gold per year which would have - gone into the tailing-pile under the former conditions. - </p> - <p> - The cyanide process was new to me, and full of interest; and among the - costly and elaborate mining machinery there were fine things which were - new to me, but I was already familiar with the rest of the details of the - gold-mining industry. I had been a gold miner myself, in my day, and knew - substantially everything that those people knew about it, except how to - make money at it. But I learned a good deal about the Boers there, and - that was a fresh subject. What I heard there was afterwards repeated to me - in other parts of South Africa. Summed up—according to the - information thus gained—this is the Boer: - </p> - <p> - He is deeply religious, profoundly ignorant, dull, obstinate, bigoted, - uncleanly in his habits, hospitable, honest in his dealings with the - whites, a hard master to his black servant, lazy, a good shot, good - horseman, addicted to the chase, a lover of political independence, a good - husband and father, not fond of herding together in towns, but liking the - seclusion and remoteness and solitude and empty vastness and silence of - the veldt; a man of a mighty appetite, and not delicate about what he - appeases it with—well-satisfied with pork and Indian corn and - biltong, requiring only that the quantity shall not be stinted; willing to - ride a long journey to take a hand in a rude all-night dance interspersed - with vigorous feeding and boisterous jollity, but ready to ride twice as - far for a prayer-meeting; proud of his Dutch and Huguenot origin and its - religious and military history; proud of his race's achievements in South - Africa, its bold plunges into hostile and uncharted deserts in search of - free solitudes unvexed by the pestering and detested English, also its - victories over the natives and the British; proudest of all, of the direct - and effusive personal interest which the Deity has always taken in its - affairs. He cannot read, he cannot write; he has one or two newspapers, - but he is, apparently, not aware of it; until latterly he had no schools, - and taught his children nothing, news is a term which has no meaning to - him, and the thing itself he cares nothing about. He hates to be taxed and - resents it. He has stood stock still in South Africa for two centuries and - a half, and would like to stand still till the end of time, for he has no - sympathy with Uitlander notions of progress. He is hungry to be rich, for - he is human; but his preference has been for riches in cattle, not in fine - clothes and fine houses and gold and diamonds. The gold and the diamonds - have brought the godless stranger within his gates, also contamination and - broken repose, and he wishes that they had never been discovered. - </p> - <p> - I think that the bulk of those details can be found in Olive Schreiner's - books, and she would not be accused of sketching the Boer's portrait with - an unfair hand. - </p> - <p> - Now what would you expect from that unpromising material? What ought you - to expect from it? Laws inimical to religious liberty? Yes. Laws denying, - representation and suffrage to the intruder? Yes. Laws unfriendly to - educational institutions? Yes. Laws obstructive of gold production? Yes. - Discouragement of railway expansion? Yes. Laws heavily taxing the intruder - and overlooking the Boer? Yes. - </p> - <p> - The Uitlander seems to have expected something very different from all - that. I do not know why. Nothing different from it was rationally to be - expected. A round man cannot be expected to fit a square hole right away. - He must have time to modify his shape. The modification had begun in a - detail or two, before the Raid, and was making some progress. It has made - further progress since. There are wise men in the Boer government, and - that accounts for the modification; the modification of the Boer mass has - probably not begun yet. If the heads of the Boer government had not been - wise men they would have hanged Jameson, and thus turned a very - commonplace pirate into a holy martyr. But even their wisdom has its - limits, and they will hang Mr. Rhodes if they ever catch him. That will - round him and complete him and make him a saint. He has already been - called by all other titles that symbolize human grandeur, and he ought to - rise to this one, the grandest of all. It will be a dizzy jump from where - he is now, but that is nothing, it will land him in good company and be a - pleasant change for him. - </p> - <p> - Some of the things demanded by the Johannesburgers' Manifesto have been - conceded since the days of the Raid, and the others will follow in time, - no doubt. It was most fortunate for the miners of Johannesburg that the - taxes which distressed them so much were levied by the Boer government, - instead of by their friend Rhodes and his Chartered Company of highwaymen, - for these latter take half of whatever their mining victims find, they do - not stop at a mere percentage. If the Johannesburg miners were under their - jurisdiction they would be in the poorhouse in twelve months. - </p> - <p> - I have been under the impression all along that I had an unpleasant - paragraph about the Boers somewhere in my notebook, and also a pleasant - one. I have found them now. The unpleasant one is dated at an interior - village, and says— - </p> - <p> - "Mr. Z. called. He is an English Afrikander; is an old resident, and has a - Boer wife. He speaks the language, and his professional business is with - the Boers exclusively. He told me that the ancient Boer families in the - great region of which this village is the commercial center are falling - victims to their inherited indolence and dullness in the materialistic - latter-day race and struggle, and are dropping one by one into the grip of - the usurer—getting hopelessly in debt—and are losing their - high place and retiring to second and lower. The Boer's farm does not go - to another Boer when he loses it, but to a foreigner. Some have fallen so - low that they sell their daughters to the blacks." - </p> - <p> - Under date of another South African town I find the note which is - creditable to the Boers: - </p> - <p> - "Dr. X. told me that in the Kafir war 1,500 Kafirs took refuge in a great - cave in the mountains about 90 miles north of Johannesburg, and the Boers - blocked up the entrance and smoked them to death. Dr. X. has been in there - and seen the great array of bleached skeletons—one a woman with the - skeleton of a child hugged to her breast." - </p> - <p> - The great bulk of the savages must go. The white man wants their lands, - and all must go excepting such percentage of them as he will need to do - his work for him upon terms to be determined by himself. Since history has - removed the element of guesswork from this matter and made it certainty, - the humanest way of diminishing the black population should be adopted, - not the old cruel ways of the past. Mr. Rhodes and his gang have been - following the old ways.—They are chartered to rob and slay, and they - lawfully do it, but not in a compassionate and Christian spirit. They rob - the Mashonas and the Matabeles of a portion of their territories in the - hallowed old style of "purchase!" for a song, and then they force a - quarrel and take the rest by the strong hand. They rob the natives of - their cattle under the pretext that all the cattle in the country belonged - to the king whom they have tricked and assassinated. They issue - "regulations" requiring the incensed and harassed natives to work for the - white settlers, and neglect their own affairs to do it. This is slavery, - and is several times worse than was the American slavery which used to - pain England so much; for when this Rhodesian slave is sick, - super-annuated, or otherwise disabled, he must support himself or starve—his - master is under no obligation to support him. - </p> - <p> - The reduction of the population by Rhodesian methods to the desired limit - is a return to the old-time slow-misery and lingering-death system of a - discredited time and a crude "civilization." We humanely reduce an - overplus of dogs by swift chloroform; the Boer humanely reduced an - overplus of blacks by swift suffocation; the nameless but right-hearted - Australian pioneer humanely reduced his overplus of aboriginal neighbors - by a sweetened swift death concealed in a poisoned pudding. All these are - admirable, and worthy of praise; you and I would rather suffer either of - these deaths thirty times over in thirty successive days than linger out - one of the Rhodesian twenty-year deaths, with its daily burden of insult, - humiliation, and forced labor for a man whose entire race the victim - hates. Rhodesia is a happy name for that land of piracy and pillage, and - puts the right stain upon it. - </p> - <p> - Several long journeys—gave us experience of the Cape Colony - railways; easy-riding, fine cars; all the conveniences; thorough - cleanliness; comfortable beds furnished for the night trains. It was in - the first days of June, and winter; the daytime was pleasant, the - nighttime nice and cold. Spinning along all day in the cars it was ecstasy - to breathe the bracing air and gaze out over the vast brown solitudes of - the velvet plains, soft and lovely near by, still softer and lovelier - further away, softest and loveliest of all in the remote distances, where - dim island-hills seemed afloat, as in a sea—a sea made of - dream-stuff and flushed with colors faint and rich; and dear me, the depth - of the sky, and the beauty of the strange new cloud-forms, and the glory - of the sunshine, the lavishness, the wastefulness of it! The vigor and - freshness and inspiration of the air and the sun—well, it was all - just as Olive Schreiner had made it in her books. - </p> - <p> - To me the veldt, in its sober winter garb, was surpassingly beautiful. - There were unlevel stretches where it was rolling and swelling, and rising - and subsiding, and sweeping superbly on and on, and still on and on like - an ocean, toward the faraway horizon, its pale brown deepening by - delicately graduated shades to rich orange, and finally to purple and - crimson where it washed against the wooded hills and naked red crags at - the base of the sky. - </p> - <p> - Everywhere, from Cape Town to Kimberley and from Kimberley to Port - Elizabeth and East London, the towns were well populated with tamed - blacks; tamed and Christianized too, I suppose, for they wore the dowdy - clothes of our Christian civilization. But for that, many of them would - have been remarkably handsome. These fiendish clothes, together with the - proper lounging gait, good-natured face, happy air, and easy laugh, made - them precise counterparts of our American blacks; often where all the - other aspects were strikingly and harmoniously and thrillingly African, a - flock of these natives would intrude, looking wholly out of place, and - spoil it all, making the thing a grating discord, half African and half - American. - </p> - <p> - One Sunday in King William's Town a score of colored women came mincing - across the great barren square dressed—oh, in the last perfection of - fashion, and newness, and expensiveness, and showy mixture of unrelated - colors,—all just as I had seen it so often at home; and in their - faces and their gait was that languishing, aristocratic, divine delight in - their finery which was so familiar to me, and had always been such a - satisfaction to my eye and my heart. I seemed among old, old friends; - friends of fifty years, and I stopped and cordially greeted them. They - broke into a good-fellowship laugh, flashing their white teeth upon me, - and all answered at once. I did not understand a word they said. I was - astonished; I was not dreaming that they would answer in anything but - American.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p693.jpg (25K)" src="images/p693.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The voices, too, of the African women, were familiar to me sweet and - musical, just like those of the slave women of my early days. I followed a - couple of them all over the Orange Free State—no, over its capital—Bloemfontein, - to hear their liquid voices and the happy ripple of their laughter. Their - language was a large improvement upon American. Also upon the Zulu. It had - no Zulu clicks in it; and it seemed to have no angles or corners, no - roughness, no vile s's or other hissing sounds, but was very, very mellow - and rounded and flowing. - </p> - <p> - In moving about the country in the trains, I had opportunity to see a good - many Boers of the veldt. One day at a village station a hundred of them - got out of the third-class cars to feed. - </p> - <p> - Their clothes were very interesting. For ugliness of shapes, and for - miracles of ugly colors inharmoniously associated, they were a record. The - effect was nearly as exciting and interesting as that produced by the - brilliant and beautiful clothes and perfect taste always on view at the - Indian railway stations. One man had corduroy trousers of a faded chewing - gum tint. And they were new—showing that this tint did not come by - calamity, but was intentional; the very ugliest color I have ever seen. A - gaunt, shackly country lout six feet high, in battered gray slouched hat - with wide brim, and old resin-colored breeches, had on a hideous brand-new - woolen coat which was imitation tiger skin—wavy broad stripes of - dazzling yellow and deep brown. I thought he ought to be hanged, and asked - the station-master if it could be arranged. He said no; and not only that, - but said it rudely; said it with a quite unnecessary show of feeling. Then - he muttered something about my being a jackass, and walked away and - pointed me out to people, and did everything he could to turn public - sentiment against me. It is what one gets for trying to do good.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p694.jpg (21K)" src="images/p694.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In the train that day a passenger told me some more about Boer life out in - the lonely veldt. He said the Boer gets up early and sets his "niggers" at - their tasks (pasturing the cattle, and watching them); eats, smokes, - drowses, sleeps; toward evening superintends the milking, etc.; eats, - smokes, drowses; goes to bed at early candlelight in the fragrant clothes - he (and she) have worn all day and every week-day for years. I remember - that last detail, in Olive Schreiner's "Story of an African Farm." And the - passenger told me that the Boers were justly noted for their hospitality. - He told me a story about it. He said that his grace the Bishop of a - certain See was once making a business-progress through the tavernless - veldt, and one night he stopped with a Boer; after supper was shown to - bed; he undressed, weary and worn out, and was soon sound asleep; in the - night he woke up feeling crowded and suffocated, and found the old Boer - and his fat wife in bed with him, one on each side, with all their clothes - on, and snoring. He had to stay there and stand it—awake and - suffering—until toward dawn, when sleep again fell upon him for an - hour. Then he woke again. The Boer was gone, but the wife was still at his - side.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p696.jpg (48K)" src="images/p696.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - Those Reformers detested that Boer prison; they were not used to cramped - quarters and tedious hours, and weary idleness, and early to bed, and - limited movement, and arbitrary and irritating rules, and the absence of - the luxuries which wealth comforts the day and the night with. The - confinement told upon their bodies and their spirits; still, they were - superior men, and they made the best that was to be made of the - circumstances. Their wives smuggled delicacies to them, which helped to - smooth the way down for the prison fare. - </p> - <p> - In the train Mr. B. told me that the Boer jail-guards treated the black - prisoners—even political ones—mercilessly. An African chief - and his following had been kept there nine months without trial, and - during all that time they had been without shelter from rain and sun. He - said that one day the guards put a big black in the stocks for dashing his - soup on the ground; they stretched his legs painfully wide apart, and set - him with his back down hill; he could not endure it, and put back his - hands upon the slope for a support. The guard ordered him to withdraw the - support and kicked him in the back. "Then," said Mr. B., "'the powerful - black wrenched the stocks asunder and went for the guard; a Reform - prisoner pulled him off, and thrashed the guard himself."<br /> <br /> <br /> - <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="ch69" id="ch69"></a><br /> <br /> CHAPTER LXIX. - </h2> - <p> - <i>The very ink with which all history is written is merely fluid - prejudice.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilsons's New Calendar - </p> - <p> - <i>There isn't a Parallel of Latitude but thinks it would have been the - Equator if it had had its rights.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - Next to Mr. Rhodes, to me the most interesting convulsion of nature in - South Africa was the diamond-crater. The Rand gold fields are a stupendous - marvel, and they make all other gold fields small, but I was not a - stranger to gold-mining; the veldt was a noble thing to see, but it was - only another and lovelier variety of our Great Plains; the natives were - very far from being uninteresting, but they were not new; and as for the - towns, I could find my way without a guide through the most of them - because I had learned the streets, under other names, in towns just like - them in other lands; but the diamond mine was a wholly fresh thing, a - splendid and absorbing novelty. Very few people in the world have seen the - diamond in its home. It has but three or four homes in the world, whereas - gold has a million. It is worth while to journey around the globe to see - anything which can truthfully be called a novelty, and the diamond mine is - the greatest and most select and restricted novelty which the globe has in - stock. - </p> - <p> - The Kimberley diamond deposits were discovered about 1869, I think. When - everything is taken into consideration, the wonder is that they were not - discovered five thousand years ago and made familiar to the African world - for the rest of time. For this reason the first diamonds were found on the - surface of the ground. They were smooth and limpid, and in the sunlight - they vomited fire. They were the very things which an African savage of - any era would value above every other thing in the world excepting a glass - bead. For two or three centuries we have been buying his lands, his - cattle, his neighbor, and any other thing he had for sale, for glass beads - and so it is strange that he was indifferent to the diamonds—for he - must have picked them up many and many a time. It would not occur to him - to try to sell them to whites, of course, since the whites already had - plenty of glass beads, and more fashionably shaped, too, than these; but - one would think that the poorer sort of black, who could not afford real - glass, would have been humbly content to decorate himself with the - imitation, and that presently the white trader would notice the things, - and dimly suspect, and carry some of them home, and find out what they - were, and at once empty a multitude of fortune-hunters into Africa. There - are many strange things in human history; one of the strangest is that the - sparkling diamonds laid there so long without exciting any one's interest. - </p> - <p> - The revelation came at last by accident. In a Boer's hut out in the wide - solitude of the plains, a traveling stranger noticed a child playing with - a bright object, and was told it was a piece of glass which had been found - in the veldt. The stranger bought it for a trifle and carried it away; and - being without honor, made another stranger believe it was a diamond, and - so got $125 out of him for it, and was as pleased with himself as if he - had done a righteous thing. In Paris the wronged stranger sold it to a - pawnshop for $10,000, who sold it to a countess for $90,000, who sold it - to a brewer for $800,000, who traded it to a king for a dukedom and a - pedigree, and the king "put it up the spout."—I know these - particulars to be correct.<br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p700.jpg (5K)" src="images/p700.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - The news flew around, and the South African diamond-boom began. The - original traveler—the dishonest one—now remembered that he had - once seen a Boer teamster chocking his wagon-wheel on a steep grade with a - diamond as large as a football, and he laid aside his occupations and - started out to hunt for it, but not with the intention of cheating anybody - out of $125 with it, for he had reformed. - </p> - <p> - We now come to matters more didactic. Diamonds are not imbedded in rock - ledges fifty miles long, like the Johannesburg gold, but are distributed - through the rubbish of a filled-up well, so to speak. The well is rich, - its walls are sharply defined; outside of the walls are no diamonds. The - well is a crater, and a large one. Before it had been meddled with, its - surface was even with the level plain, and there was no sign to suggest - that it was there. The pasturage covering the surface of the Kimberley - crater was sufficient for the support of a cow, and the pasturage - underneath was sufficient for the support of a kingdom; but the cow did - not know it, and lost her chance. - </p> - <p> - The Kimberley crater is roomy enough to admit the Roman Coliseum; the - bottom of the crater has not been reached, and no one can tell how far - down in the bowels of the earth it goes. Originally, it was a - perpendicular hole packed solidly full of blue rock or cement, and - scattered through that blue mass, like raisins in a pudding, were the - diamonds. As deep down in the earth as the blue stuff extends, so deep - will the diamonds be found. - </p> - <p> - There are three or four other celebrated craters near by—a circle - three miles in diameter would enclose them all. They are owned by the De - Beers Company, a consolidation of diamond properties arranged by Mr. - Rhodes twelve or fourteen years ago. The De Beers owns other craters; they - are under the grass, but the De Beers knows where they are, and will open - them some day, if the market should require it. - </p> - <p> - Originally, the diamond deposits were the property of the Orange Free - State; but a judicious "rectification" of the boundary line shifted them - over into the British territory of Cape Colony. A high official of the - Free State told me that the sum of $400,000 was handed to his commonwealth - as a compromise, or indemnity, or something of the sort, and that he - thought his commonwealth did wisely to take the money and keep out of a - dispute, since the power was all on the one side and the weakness all on - the other. The De Beers Company dig out $400,000 worth of diamonds per - week, now. The Cape got the territory, but no profit; for Mr. Rhodes and - the Rothschilds and the other De Beers people own the mines, and they pay - no taxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p702.jpg (18K)" src="images/p702.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - In our day the mines are worked upon scientific principles, under the - guidance of the ablest mining-engineering talent procurable in America. - There are elaborate works for reducing the blue rock and passing it - through one process after another until every diamond it contains has been - hunted down and secured. I watched the "concentrators" at work big tanks - containing mud and water and invisible diamonds—and was told that - each could stir and churn and properly treat 300 car-loads of mud per day - 1,600 pounds to the car-load—and reduce it to 3 car-loads of slush. - I saw the 3 carloads of slush taken to the "pulsators" and there reduced - to a quarter of a load of nice clean dark-colored sand. Then I followed it - to the sorting tables and saw the men deftly and swiftly spread it out and - brush it about and seize the diamonds as they showed up. I assisted, and - once I found a diamond half as large as an almond. It is an exciting kind - of fishing, and you feel a fine thrill of pleasure every time you detect - the glow of one of those limpid pebbles through the veil of dark sand. I - would like to spend my Saturday holidays in that charming sport every now - and then. Of course there are disappointments. Sometimes you find a - diamond which is not a diamond; it is only a quartz crystal or some such - worthless thing. The expert can generally distinguish it from the precious - stone which it is counterfeiting; but if he is in doubt he lays it on a - flatiron and hits it with a sledgehammer. If it is a diamond it holds its - own; if it is anything else, it is reduced to powder. I liked that - experiment very much, and did not tire of repetitions of it. It was full - of enjoyable apprehensions, unmarred by any personal sense of risk. The De - Beers concern treats 8,000 carloads—about 6,000 tons—of blue - rock per day, and the result is three pounds of diamonds. Value, uncut, - $50,000 to $70,000. After cutting, they will weigh considerably less than - a pound, but will be worth four or five times as much as they were before. - </p> - <p> - All the plain around that region is spread over, a foot deep, with blue - rock, placed there by the Company, and looks like a plowed field. Exposure - for a length of time make the rock easier to work than it is when it comes - out of the mine. If mining should cease now, the supply of rock spread - over those fields would furnish the usual 8,000 car-loads per day to the - separating works during three years. The fields are fenced and watched; - and at night they are under the constant inspection of lofty electric - searchlight. They contain fifty or sixty million dollars' worth' of - diamonds, and there is an abundance of enterprising thieves around. - </p> - <p> - In the dirt of the Kimberley streets there is much hidden wealth. Some - time ago the people were granted the privilege of a free wash-up. There - was a general rush, the work was done with thoroughness, and a good - harvest of diamonds was gathered. - </p> - <p> - The deep mining is done by natives. There are many hundreds of them. They - live in quarters built around the inside of a great compound. They are a - jolly and good-natured lot, and accommodating. They performed a war-dance - for us, which was the wildest exhibition I have ever seen. They are not - allowed outside of the compound during their term of service three months, - I think it is, as a rule. They go down the shaft, stand their watch, come - up again, are searched, and go to bed or to their amusements in the - compound; and this routine they repeat, day in and day out.<br /> <br /> - <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p704.jpg (28K)" src="images/p704.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - It is thought that they do not now steal many diamonds successfully. They - used to swallow them, and find other ways of concealing them, but the - white man found ways of beating their various games. One man cut his leg - and shoved a diamond into the wound, but even that project did not - succeed. When they find a fine large diamond they are more likely to - report it than to steal it, for in the former case they get a reward, and - in the latter they are quite apt to merely get into trouble. Some years - ago, in a mine not owned by the De Beers, a black found what has been - claimed to be the largest diamond known to the world's history; and, as a - reward he was released from service and given a blanket, a horse, and five - hundred dollars. It made him a Vanderbilt. He could buy four wives, and - have money left. Four wives are an ample support for a native. With four - wives he is wholly independent, and need never do a stroke of work again. - </p> - <p> - That great diamond weighs 97l carats. Some say it is as big as a piece of - alum, others say it is as large as a bite of rock candy, but the best - authorities agree that it is almost exactly the size of a chunk of ice. - But those details are not important; and in my opinion not trustworthy. It - has a flaw in it, otherwise it would be of incredible value. As it is, it - is held to be worth $2,000,000. After cutting it ought to be worth from - $5,000,000 to $8,000,000, therefore persons desiring to save money should - buy it now. It is owned by a syndicate, and apparently there is no - satisfactory market for it. It is earning nothing; it is eating its head - off. Up to this time it has made nobody rich but the native who found it.<br /> - <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p705.jpg (18K)" src="images/p705.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - He found it in a mine which was being worked by contract. That is to say, - a company had bought the privilege of taking from the mine 5,000,000 - carloads of blue-rock, for a sum down and a royalty. Their speculation had - not paid; but on the very day that their privilege ran out that native - found the $2,000,000-diamond and handed it over to them. Even the diamond - culture is not without its romantic episodes. - </p> - <p> - The Koh-i-Noor is a large diamond, and valuable; but it cannot compete in - these matters with three which—according to legend—are among - the crown trinkets of Portugal and Russia. One of these is held to be - worth $20,000,000; another, $25,000,000, and the third something over - $28,000,000. - </p> - <p> - Those are truly wonderful diamonds, whether they exist or not; and yet - they are of but little importance by comparison with the one wherewith the - Boer wagoner chocked his wheel on that steep grade as heretofore referred - to. In Kimberley I had some conversation with the man who saw the Boer do - that—an incident which had occurred twenty-seven or twenty-eight - years before I had my talk with him. He assured me that that diamond's - value could have been over a billion dollars, but not under it. I believed - him, because he had devoted twenty-seven years to hunting for it, and was - in a position to know. - </p> - <p> - A fitting and interesting finish to an examination of the tedious and - laborious and costly processes whereby the diamonds are gotten out of the - deeps of the earth and freed from the base stuffs which imprison them is - the visit to the De Beers offices in the town of Kimberley, where the - result of each day's mining is brought every day, and, weighed, assorted, - valued, and deposited in safes against shipping-day. An unknown and - unaccredited person cannot get into that place; and it seemed apparent - from the generous supply of warning and protective and prohibitory signs - that were posted all about, that not even the known and accredited can - steal diamonds there without inconvenience. - </p> - <p> - We saw the day's output—shining little nests of diamonds, - distributed a foot apart, along a counter, each nest reposing upon a sheet - of white paper. That day's catch was about $70,000 worth. In the course of - a year half a ton of diamonds pass under the scales there and sleep on - that counter; the resulting money is $18,000,000 or $20,000,000. Profit, - about $12,000,000. - </p> - <p> - Young girls were doing the sorting—a nice, clean, dainty, and - probably distressing employment. Every day ducal incomes sift and sparkle - through the fingers of those young girls; yet they go to bed at night as - poor as they were when they got up in the morning. The same thing next - day, and all the days.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> - <img alt="p707.jpg (15K)" src="images/p707.jpg" width="100%" /><br /> - </div> - <p> - <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <p> - They are beautiful things, those diamonds, in their native state. They are - of various shapes; they have flat surfaces, rounded borders, and never a - sharp edge. They are of all colors and shades of color, from dewdrop white - to actual black; and their smooth and rounded surfaces and contours, - variety of color, and transparent limpidity make them look like piles of - assorted candies. A very light straw color is their commonest tint. It - seemed to me that these uncut gems must be more beautiful than any cut - ones could be; but when a collection of cut ones was brought out, I saw my - mistake. Nothing is so beautiful as a rose diamond with the light playing - through it, except that uncostly thing which is just like it—wavy - sea-water with the sunlight playing through it and striking a white-sand - bottom. - </p> - <p> - Before the middle of July we reached Cape Town, and the end of our African - journeyings. And well satisfied; for, towering above us was Table Mountain—a - reminder that we had now seen each and all of the great features of South - Africa except Mr. Cecil Rhodes. I realize that that is a large exception. - I know quite well that whether Mr. Rhodes is the lofty and worshipful - patriot and statesman that multitudes believe him to be, or Satan come - again, as the rest of the world account him, he is still the most imposing - figure in the British empire outside of England. When he stands on the - Cape of Good Hope, his shadow falls to the Zambesi. He is the only - colonial in the British dominions whose goings and comings are chronicled - and discussed under all the globe's meridians, and whose speeches, - unclipped, are cabled from the ends of the earth; and he is the only - unroyal outsider whose arrival in London can compete for attention with an - eclipse. - </p> - <p> - That he is an extraordinary man, and not an accident of fortune, not even - his dearest South African enemies were willing to deny, so far as I heard - them testify. The whole South African world seemed to stand in a kind of - shuddering awe of him, friend and enemy alike. It was as if he were - deputy-God on the one side, deputy-Satan on the other, proprietor of the - people, able to make them or ruin them by his breath, worshiped by many, - hated by many, but blasphemed by none among the judicious, and even by the - indiscreet in guarded whispers only. - </p> - <p> - What is the secret of his formidable supremacy? One says it is his - prodigious wealth—a wealth whose drippings in salaries and in other - ways support multitudes and make them his interested and loyal vassals; - another says it is his personal magnetism and his persuasive tongue, and - that these hypnotize and make happy slaves of all that drift within the - circle of their influence; another says it is his majestic ideas, his vast - schemes for the territorial aggrandizement of England, his patriotic and - unselfish ambition to spread her beneficent protection and her just rule - over the pagan wastes of Africa and make luminous the African darkness - with the glory of her name; and another says he wants the earth and wants - it for his own, and that the belief that he will get it and let his - friends in on the ground floor is the secret that rivets so many eyes upon - him and keeps him in the zenith where the view is unobstructed. - </p> - <p> - One may take his choice. They are all the same price. One fact is sure: he - keeps his prominence and a vast following, no matter what he does. He - "deceives" the Duke of Fife—it is the Duke's word—but that - does not destroy the Duke's loyalty to him. He tricks the Reformers into - immense trouble with his Raid, but the most of them believe he meant well. - He weeps over the harshly-taxed Johannesburgers and makes them his - friends; at the same time he taxes his Charter-settlers 50 per cent., and - so wins their affection and their confidence that they are squelched with - despair at every rumor that the Charter is to be annulled. He raids and - robs and slays and enslaves the Matabele and gets worlds of - Charter-Christian applause for it. He has beguiled England into buying - Charter waste paper for Bank of England notes, ton for ton, and the - ravished still burn incense to him as the Eventual God of Plenty. He has - done everything he could think of to pull himself down to the ground; he - has done more than enough to pull sixteen common-run great men down; yet - there he stands, to this day, upon his dizzy summit under the dome of the - sky, an apparent permanency, the marvel of the time, the mystery of the - age, an Archangel with wings to half the world, Satan with a tail to the - other half. - </p> - <p> - I admire him, I frankly confess it; and when his time comes I shall buy a - piece of the rope for a keepsake.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> - <h2> - <a name="CONCLUSION" id="CONCLUSION"></a>CONCLUSION. - </h2> - <p> - <i>I have traveled more than anyone else, and I have noticed that even the - angels speak English with an accent.</i> - </p> - <p> - —Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar. - </p> - <p> - I saw Table Rock, anyway—a majestic pile. It is 3,000 feet high. It - is also 17,000 feet high. These figures may be relied upon. I got them in - Cape Town from the two best-informed citizens, men who had made Table Rock - the study of their lives. And I saw Table Bay, so named for its levelness. - I saw the Castle—built by the Dutch East India Company three hundred - years ago—where the Commanding General lives; I saw St. Simon's Bay, - where the Admiral lives. I saw the Government, also the Parliament, where - they quarreled in two languages when I was there, and agreed in none. I - saw the club. I saw and explored the beautiful sea-girt drives that wind - about the mountains and through the paradise where the villas are: Also I - saw some of the fine old Dutch mansions, pleasant homes of the early - times, pleasant homes to-day, and enjoyed the privilege of their - hospitalities. - </p> - <p> - And just before I sailed I saw in one of them a quaint old picture which - was a link in a curious romance—a picture of a pale, intellectual - young man in a pink coat with a high black collar. It was a portrait of - Dr. James Barry, a military surgeon who came out to the Cape fifty years - ago with his regiment. He was a wild young fellow, and was guilty of - various kinds of misbehavior. He was several times reported to - headquarters in England, and it was in each case expected that orders - would come out to deal with him promptly and severely, but for some - mysterious reason no orders of any kind ever came back—nothing came - but just an impressive silence. This made him an imposing and uncanny - wonder to the town. - </p> - <p> - Next, he was promoted—away up. He was made Medical Superintendent - General, and transferred to India. Presently he was back at the Cape again - and at his escapades once more. There were plenty of pretty girls, but - none of them caught him, none of them could get hold of his heart; - evidently he was not a marrying man. And that was another marvel, another - puzzle, and made no end of perplexed talk. Once he was called in the - night, an obstetric service, to do what he could for a woman who was - believed to be dying. He was prompt and scientific, and saved both mother - and child. There are other instances of record which testify to his - mastership of his profession; and many which testify to his love of it and - his devotion to it. Among other adventures of his was a duel of a - desperate sort, fought with swords, at the Castle. He killed his man. - </p> - <p> - The child heretofore mentioned as having been saved by Dr. Barry so long - ago, was named for him, and still lives in Cape Town. He had Dr. Barry's - portrait painted, and gave it to the gentleman in whose old Dutch house I - saw it—the quaint figure in pink coat and high black collar. - </p> - <p> - The story seems to be arriving nowhere. But that is because I have not - finished. Dr. Barry died in Cape Town 30 years ago. It was then discovered - that he was <i>a woman</i>. - </p> - <p> - The legend goes that enquiries—soon silenced—developed the - fact that she was a daughter of a great English house, and that that was - why her Cape wildnesses brought no punishment and got no notice when - reported to the government at home. Her name was an alias. She had - disgraced herself with her people; so she chose to change her name and her - sex and take a new start in the world. - </p> - <p> - We sailed on the 15th of July in the Norman, a beautiful ship, perfectly - appointed. The voyage to England occupied a short fortnight, without a - stop except at Madeira. A good and restful voyage for tired people, and - there were several of us. I seemed to have been lecturing a thousand - years, though it was only a twelvemonth, and a considerable number of the - others were Reformers who were fagged out with their five months of - seclusion in the Pretoria prison. - </p> - <p> - Our trip around the earth ended at the Southampton pier, where we embarked - thirteen months before. It seemed a fine and large thing to have - accomplished—the circumnavigation of this great globe in that little - time, and I was privately proud of it. For a moment. Then came one of - those vanity-snubbing astronomical reports from the Observatory-people, - whereby it appeared that another great body of light had lately flamed up - in the remotenesses of space which was traveling at a gait which would - enable it to do all that I had done in a minute and a half. Human pride is - not worth while; there is always something lying in wait to take the wind - out of it.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> - </p> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Following the Equator, Complete -by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR, COMPLETE *** - -***** This file should be named 2895-h.htm or 2895-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.net/2/8/9/2895/ - -Produced by David Widger - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, -set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to -copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to -protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project -Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you -charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you -do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the -rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose -such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and -research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do -practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is -subject to the trademark license, especially commercial -redistribution. - - - -*** START: FULL LICENSE *** - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project -Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at -http://gutenberg.net/license). - - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy -all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. -If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the -terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or -entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement -and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" -or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the -collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an -individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are -located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from -copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative -works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg -are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project -Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by -freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of -this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with -the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by -keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project -Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in -a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check -the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement -before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or -creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project -Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning -the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United -States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate -access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently -whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, -copied or distributed: - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived -from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is -posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied -and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees -or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work -with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the -work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 -through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the -Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or -1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional -terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked -to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the -permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any -word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or -distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than -"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version -posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.net), -you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a -copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon -request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other -form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided -that - -- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is - owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he - has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the - Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments - must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you - prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax - returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and - sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the - address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to - the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." - -- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or - destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium - and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of - Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any - money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days - of receipt of the work. - -- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set -forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from -both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael -Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the -Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm -collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain -"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or -corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual -property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a -computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by -your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with -your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with -the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a -refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity -providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to -receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy -is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further -opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER -WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO -WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. -If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the -law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be -interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by -the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any -provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance -with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, -promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, -harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, -that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do -or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm -work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any -Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. - - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers -including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists -because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from -people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. -To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 -and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive -Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at -http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent -permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. -Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered -throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at -809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email -business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact -information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official -page at http://pglaf.org - -For additional contact information: - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To -SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any -particular state visit http://pglaf.org - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including including checks, online payments and credit card -donations. To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.net - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - </body> -</html> |
