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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
+<title>A Supplementary Chapter to the Bible in Spain, by George Borrow</title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Supplementary Chapter to the Bible in
+Spain, by George Borrow, Edited by Thomas J. Wise
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Supplementary Chapter to the Bible in Spain
+
+
+Author: George Borrow
+
+Editor: Thomas J. Wise
+
+Release Date: July 20, 2009 [eBook #29469]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE
+BIBLE IN SPAIN***
+</pre>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David
+Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org.&nbsp; Many thanks to Norfolk and
+Norwich Millennium Library, UK, for kindly supplying the images
+from which this transcription was made.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/cover.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cover of pamphlet"
+title=
+"Cover of pamphlet"
+src="images/cover.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p0b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Facsimile of last page of pamphlet"
+title=
+"Facsimile of last page of pamphlet"
+src="images/p0s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h1><span class="smcap">a</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">supplementary chapter</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">to</span><br />
+THE BIBLE IN SPAIN</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>Inspired by</i><br />
+<span class="smcap">ford&rsquo;s</span> &ldquo;<span
+class="smcap">hand-book for travellers in
+spain</span>.&rdquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br />
+GEORGE BORROW</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">London</span>:<br />
+<span class="smcap">printed for private circulation</span><br />
+1913</p>
+<h2><!-- page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+7</span>PREFATORY NOTE</h2>
+<p>In 1845 Richard Ford published his <i>Hand-Book for Travellers
+in Spain and Readers at Home</i> [2 Vols. 8vo.], a work which
+still commands attention, and the compilation of which is said to
+have occupied its author for more than sixteen years.&nbsp; In
+conformity with the wish of Ford (who had himself favourably
+reviewed <i>The Bible in Spain</i>) Borrow undertook to produce a
+study of the <i>Hand-Book</i> for <i>The Quarterly
+Review</i>.&nbsp; The following Essay was the result.</p>
+<p>But the Essay, brilliant as it is, was not a
+&lsquo;Review.&rsquo;&nbsp; Not until page 6 of the suppressed
+edition (p. 25 of the present edition) is reached is the
+<i>Hand-Book</i> even mentioned, and but little concerning it
+appears thereafter.&nbsp; Lockhart, then editing the
+<i>Quarterly</i>, proposed to render it more suitable for the
+purpose for which it had been intended by himself interpolating a
+series of extracts from Ford&rsquo;s volumes.&nbsp; But Borrow
+would tolerate no interference with his work, and promptly <!--
+page 8--><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+8</span>withdrew the Essay, which had meanwhile been set up in
+type.&nbsp; The following letter, addressed by Lockhart to Ford,
+sufficiently explains the position:</p>
+<blockquote><p style="text-align: right"><i>London</i>,<br />
+<i>June</i> 13<i>th</i>, 1845.</p>
+<p><i>Dear Ford</i>,</p>
+<p>&lsquo;<i>El Gitano</i>&rsquo; <i>sent me a paper on the</i>
+&ldquo;<i>Hand-Book</i>&rdquo; <i>which I read with
+delight</i>.&nbsp; <i>It seemed just another capital chapter of
+his</i> &ldquo;<i>Bible in Spain</i>,&rdquo; <i>and I
+thought</i>, <i>as there was hardly a word of</i>
+&lsquo;<i>review</i>,&rsquo; <i>and no extract giving the least
+notion of the peculiar merits and style of the</i>
+&ldquo;<i>Hand-Book</i>,&rdquo; <i>that I could easily</i> (<i>as
+is my constant custom</i>) <i>supply the humbler part myself</i>,
+<i>and so present at once a fair review of the work</i>, <i>and a
+lively specimen of our friend&rsquo;s vein of eloquence in
+exordio</i>.</p>
+<p><i>But</i>, <i>behold</i>! <i>he will not allow any
+tampering</i> . . . <i>I now write to condole with you</i>;
+<i>for I am very sensible</i>, <i>after all</i>, <i>that you run
+a great risk in having your book committed to hands far less
+competent for treating it or any other book of Spanish interest
+than Borrow&rsquo;s would have been</i> . . . <i>but I consider
+that</i>, <i>after all</i>, <i>in the case of a new author</i>,
+<i>it is the first duty of</i> &ldquo;<i>The Quarterly
+Review</i>&rdquo; <i>to introduce that author fully and fairly to
+the public</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Ever Yours Truly</i>,<br />
+<i>J. G. Lockhart</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><!-- page 9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+9</span>The action of Lockhart in seeking to amend his Essay
+excited Borrow&rsquo;s keenest indignation, and induced him to
+produce the following amusing squib:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p><i>Would it not be more dignified</i><br />
+<i>To run up debts on every side</i>,<br />
+<i>And then to pay your debts refuse</i>,<br />
+<i>Than write for rascally Reviews</i>?<br />
+<i>And lectures give to great and small</i>,<br />
+<i>In pot-house</i>, <i>theatre</i>, <i>and town-hall</i>,<br />
+<i>Wearing your brains by night and day</i><br />
+<i>To win the means to pay your way</i>?<br />
+<i>I vow by him who reigns in</i> [<i>hell</i>],<br />
+<i>It would be more respectable</i>!</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>This squib was never printed by Borrow.&nbsp; I chanced to
+light upon it recently in a packet of his as yet unpublished
+verse.</p>
+<p>The Essay itself is far too interesting, and far too
+characteristic of its author, to be permitted to remain any
+longer inaccessible; hence the present reprint.&nbsp; The
+original is a folio pamphlet, extending to twelve numbered
+pages.&nbsp; Of this pamphlet no more than two copies would
+appear to have been struck off, and both are fortunately extant
+to-day.&nbsp; One of these was formerly in the possession of Dr.
+William J. Knapp, and is now the property of the Hispanic Society
+of New York.&nbsp; The second example is in my own library.&nbsp;
+This was Borrow&rsquo;s own copy, and is freely <!-- page 10--><a
+name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>corrected in
+his handwriting throughout.&nbsp; From this copy the present
+edition has been printed, and in preparing it the whole of the
+corrections and additions made by Borrow to the text of the
+original pamphlet have been adopted.</p>
+<p>A reduced facsimile of the last page of the pamphlet serves as
+frontispiece to the present volume.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">T. J. W.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 11--><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+11</span>A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE BIBLE IN SPAIN</h2>
+<p>Does Gibraltar, viewing the horrors which are continually
+taking place in Spain, and which, notwithstanding their frequent
+grotesqueness, have drawn down upon that country the indignation
+of the entire civilized world, never congratulate herself on her
+severance from the peninsula, for severed she is morally and
+physically?&nbsp; Who knows what is passing in the bosom of the
+old Rock?&nbsp; Yet on observing the menacing look which she
+casts upon Spain across the neutral ground, we have thought that
+provided she could speak it would be something after the
+following fashion:&mdash;</p>
+<p>Accursed land! I hate thee; and, far from being a defence,
+will invariably prove a thorn in thy side, a source of
+humiliation and ignominy, a punishment for thy sorceries, thy
+abominations and idolatries&mdash;thy cruelty, thy cowardice and
+miserable pride; I will <!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 12</span>look on whilst thy navies are burnt
+in my many bays, and thy armies perish before my eternal
+walls&mdash;I will look on whilst thy revenues are defrauded and
+ruined, and thy commerce becomes a bye word and a laughing-stock,
+and I will exult the while and shout&mdash;&lsquo;I am an
+instrument in the hand of the Lord, even I, the old volcanic
+hill&mdash;I have pertained to the Moor and the Briton&mdash;they
+have unfolded their banners from my heights, and I have been
+content&mdash;I have belonged solely to the irrational beings of
+nature, and no human hum invaded my solitudes; the eagle nestled
+on my airy crags, and the tortoise and the sea-calf dreamed in my
+watery caverns undisturbed; even then I was content, for I was
+aloof from Spain and her sons.&nbsp; The days of my shame were
+those when I was clasped in her embraces and was polluted by her
+crimes; when I was a forced partaker in her bad faith,
+soul-subduing tyranny, and degrading fanaticism; when I heard
+only her bragging tongue, and was redolent of nought but the
+breath of her smoke-loving borrachos; when I was a prison for her
+convicts and a garrison for her rabble soldiery&mdash;Spain,
+accursed land, I hate thee: may I, like my African neighbour,
+become a house and a retreat only for vile baboons rather than
+the viler Spaniard.&nbsp; May I sink beneath the billows, which
+is my foretold fate, ere I become again a parcel of
+Spain&mdash;accursed land, I hate thee, and so long as I can
+uphold my brow will still look menacingly on Spain.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+13</span>Strong language this, it will perhaps be
+observed&mdash;but when the rocks speak strong language may be
+expected, and it is no slight matter which will set stones
+a-speaking.&nbsp; Surely, if ever there was a time for Gibraltar
+to speak, it is the present, and we leave it to our readers to
+determine whether the above is not a real voice from Gibraltar
+heard by ourselves one moonlight night at Algeziras, as with our
+hands in our pockets we stood on the pier, staring across the bay
+in the direction of the rock.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Poor Spain, unfortunate Spain!&rsquo; we have
+frequently heard Spaniards exclaim.&nbsp; Were it worth while
+asking the Spaniard a reason for anything he says or does, we
+should be tempted to ask him why he apostrophizes his country in
+this manner.&nbsp; If she is wretched and miserable and bleeding,
+has she anything but what she richly deserves, and has brought
+down upon her own head?&nbsp; By Spain we of course mean the
+Spanish nation&mdash;for as for the country, it is so much
+impassible matter, so much rock and sand, chalk and
+clay&mdash;with which we have for the moment nothing to do.&nbsp;
+It has pleased her to play an arrant jade&rsquo;s part, the part
+of a <i>mula falsa</i>, a vicious mule, and now, and not for the
+first time, the brute has been chastised&mdash;there she lies on
+the road amidst the dust, the blood running from her nose.&nbsp;
+Did our readers ever peruse the book of the adventures of the
+Squire Marcos de Obregon? <a name="citation13"></a><a
+href="#footnote13" class="citation">[13]</a>&nbsp; No!&nbsp; How
+should our <!-- page 14--><a name="page14"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 14</span>readers have perused the scarce book
+of the life and adventures of Obregon? never mind! we to whom it
+has been given to hear the voice of Gibraltar whilst standing on
+the pier of Algeziras one moonlight evening, with our hands in
+our pockets, jingling the cuartos which they contained, have read
+with considerable edification the adventures of the said Marcos,
+and will tell the reader a story out of the book of his
+life.&nbsp; So it came to pass that in one of his journeys the
+Se&ntilde;or de Obregon found himself on the back of a mule,
+which, to use his own expression, had the devil in her body, a
+regular jade, which would neither allow herself to be shod or
+saddled without making all the resistance in her power&mdash;was
+in the habit of flinging herself down whenever she came to a
+sandy place, and rolling over with her heels in the air.&nbsp; An
+old muleteer, who observed her performing this last prank, took
+pity on her rider, and said, &ldquo;Gentleman student, I wish to
+give you a piece of advice with respect to that
+animal&rdquo;&mdash;and then he gave Marcos the piece of advice,
+which Marcos received with the respect due to a man of the
+muleteer&rsquo;s experience, and proceeded on his way.&nbsp;
+Coming to a sandy place shortly after, he felt that the mule was,
+as usual, about to give way to her <i>penchant</i>, whereupon,
+without saying a word to any body, he followed the advice of the
+muleteer and with a halter which he held in his hand struck with
+all fury the jade between the two ears.&nbsp; Down fell the mule
+in the dust, and, rolling on <!-- page 15--><a
+name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>her side,
+turned up the whites of her eyes.&nbsp; &lsquo;And as I stood by
+looking at her,&rsquo; said Marcos, &lsquo;I was almost sorry
+that I had struck her so hard, seeing how she turned up the
+whites of her eyes.&nbsp; At length, however, I took a luncheon
+of bread, and steeping it in wine from my bota, I thrust it
+between her jaws, and thus revived her; and I assure you that
+from that moment she never played any tricks with me, but behaved
+both formally and genteelly under all circumstances, but
+especially when going over sandy ground.&nbsp; I am told,
+however, that as soon as I parted with her she fell into her old
+pranks, refusing to be shod or saddled&mdash;rushing up against
+walls and scarifying the leg of her rider, and flinging herself
+down in all sandy places.&rsquo;&nbsp; Now we say, without the
+slightest regard to contradiction, knowing that no one save a
+Spaniard will contradict us, that Spain has invariably proved
+herself just such a jade as the mule of the cavalier De Obregon:
+with a kind and merciful rider what will she not do?&nbsp; Look
+at her, how she refuses to be bridled or shod&mdash;how she
+scarifies the poor man&rsquo;s leg against rude walls, how ill
+she behaves in sandy places, and how occasionally diving her head
+between her fore-legs and kicking up behind she causes him to
+perform a somersault in the air to the no small discomposure of
+his Spanish gravity; but let her once catch a Tartar who will
+give her the garrote right well between the ears, and she can
+behave as well as any body.&nbsp; One of the best of her riders
+was Charles the <!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 16</span>First.&nbsp; How the brute lay
+floundering in the dust on the plains of Villalar, turning up the
+whites of her eyes, the blood streaming thick from her dishonest
+nose!&nbsp; There she lay, the Fleming staring at her, with the
+garrote in his hand.&nbsp; That&rsquo;s right, Fleming! give it
+her again&mdash;and withhold the sopa till the very last
+extremity.</p>
+<p>Then there was Napoleon again, who made her taste the garrote;
+she was quiet enough under him, but he soon left her and went to
+ride other jades, and his place was filled by those who, though
+they had no liking for her, had not vigour enough to bring her
+down on her side.&nbsp; She is down, however, at present, if ever
+she was in her life&mdash;blood streaming from her nose amidst
+the dust, the whites of her eyes turned up very much, whilst
+staring at her with uplifted garrote stands Narvaez.</p>
+<p>Yes, there lies Spain, and who can pity her?&mdash;she could
+kick off the kind and generous Espartero, who, though he had a
+stout garrote in his hand, and knew what kind of conditioned
+creature she was, forbore to strike her, to his own mighty cost
+and damage.&nbsp; She kicked off him, and took up&mdash;whom? a
+regular muleteer, neither more nor less.&nbsp; We have nothing
+further to say about him; he is at present in his proper calling,
+we bear him no ill-will, and only wish that God may speed
+him.&nbsp; But never shall we forget the behaviour of the jade
+some two years ago.&nbsp; O the yell that she set up, the true
+mulish yell&mdash;knowing all <!-- page 17--><a
+name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>the time that
+she had nothing to fear from her rider, knowing that he would not
+strike her between the ears.&nbsp; &lsquo;Come here, you
+scoundrel, and we will make a bell-clapper of your head, and of
+your bowels a string to hang it by&rsquo;&mdash;that was the cry
+of the Barcelonese, presently echoed in every town and village
+throughout Spain&mdash;and that cry was raised immediately after
+he had remitted the mulct which he had imposed on Barcelona for
+unprovoked rebellion.&nbsp; But the mule is quiet enough now; no
+such yell is heard now at Barcelona, or in any nook or corner of
+Spain.&nbsp; No, no&mdash;the Caballero was kicked out of the
+saddle, and the muleteer sprang up&mdash;There she lies, the
+brute!&nbsp; <i>Bien hecho</i>, <i>Narvaez</i>&mdash;Don&rsquo;t
+spare the garrote nor the mule!</p>
+<p>It is very possible that from certain passages which we have
+written above, some of our readers may come to the conclusion
+that we must be partisans either of Espartero or Narvaez, perhaps
+of both.&nbsp; In such case, however, they would do us
+wrong.&nbsp; Having occasion at present to speak of Spain, we
+could hardly omit taking some notice of what has been lately
+going on in the country, and of the two principal performers in
+the late <i>funcion</i>.&nbsp; We have not been inattentive
+observers of it; and have, moreover, some knowledge of the
+country; but any such feeling as partisanship we disclaim.&nbsp;
+Of Narvaez, the muleteer, we repeat that we have nothing more to
+say, his character is soon read.&nbsp; Of the caballero&mdash;of
+<!-- page 18--><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+18</span>Espartero, we take this opportunity of observing that
+the opinion which we at first entertained of him, grounded on
+what we had heard, was anything but favourable.&nbsp; We thought
+him a grasping ambitious man; and, like many others in Spain,
+merely wishing for power for the lust thereof; but we were soon
+undeceived by his conduct when the reins of government fell into
+his hand.&nbsp; That he was ambitious we have no doubt; but his
+ambition was of the noble and generous kind; he wished to become
+the regenerator of his country&mdash;to heal her sores, and at
+the same time to reclaim her vices&mdash;to make her really
+strong and powerful&mdash;and, above all, independent of
+France.&nbsp; But all his efforts were foiled by the wilfulness
+of the animal&mdash;she observed his gentleness, which she
+mistook for fear, a common mistake with jades&mdash;gave a kick,
+and good bye to Espartero!&nbsp; There is, however, one blot in
+Espartero&rsquo;s career; we allude to it with pain, for in every
+other point we believe him to have been a noble and generous
+character; but his treatment of Cordova cannot be commended on
+any principle of honour or rectitude.&nbsp; Cordova was his
+friend and benefactor, to whom he was mainly indebted for his
+advancement in the army.&nbsp; Espartero was a brave soldier,
+with some talent for military matters.&nbsp; But when did either
+bravery or talent serve as credentials for advancement in the
+Spanish service?&nbsp; He would have remained at the present day
+a major or a colonel but for the friendship of Cordova, who, <!--
+page 19--><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+19</span>amongst other things, was a courtier, and who was raised
+to the command of the armies of Spain by a court
+intrigue&mdash;which command he resigned into the hands of
+Espartero when the revolution of the Granja and the downfall of
+his friends, the Moderados, compelled him to take refuge in
+France.&nbsp; The friendship of Cordova and Espartero had been so
+well known that for a long time it was considered that the latter
+was merely holding the command till his friend might deem it safe
+and prudent to return and resume it.&nbsp; Espartero, however,
+had conceived widely different views.&nbsp; After the return of
+Cordova to Spain he caused him to be exiled under some pretence
+or other.&nbsp; He doubtless feared him, and perhaps with reason;
+but the man had been his friend and benefactor, and to the
+relations which had once existed between them Cordova himself
+alludes in a manifesto which he printed at Badajoz when on his
+way to Portugal, and which contains passages of considerable
+pathos.&nbsp; Is there not something like retribution in the fact
+that Espartero is now himself in exile?</p>
+<p>Cordova!&nbsp; His name is at present all but forgotten, yet
+it was at one time in the power of that man to have made himself
+master of the destinies of Spain.&nbsp; He was at the head of the
+army&mdash;was the favourite of Christina&mdash;and was,
+moreover, in the closest connexion with the Moderado
+party&mdash;the most unscrupulous, crafty, and formidable of all
+the factions which in these latter times have appeared in the
+bloody circus <!-- page 20--><a name="page20"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 20</span>of Spain.&nbsp; But if ever there was
+a man, a real man of flesh and blood, who in every tittle
+answered to one of the best of the many well-drawn characters in
+Le Sage&rsquo;s wonderful novel&mdash;one of the masters of Gil
+Blas, a certain Don Mathias, who got up at midday, and rasped
+tobacco whilst lolling on the sofa, till the time arrived for
+dressing and strolling forth to the prado&mdash;a thorough
+Spanish coxcomb highly perfumed, who wrote love-letters to
+himself bearing the names of noble ladies&mdash;brave withal and
+ever ready to vindicate his honour at the sword&rsquo;s point,
+provided he was not called out too early of a morning&mdash;it
+was this self-same Don Cordova, who we repeat had the destinies
+of Spain at one time in his power, and who, had he managed his
+cards well, and death had not intervened, might at the present
+moment have occupied the self-same position which Narvaez fills
+with so much credit to himself.&nbsp; The man had lots of
+courage, was well versed in the art military; and once, to his
+honour be it said, whilst commanding a division of the Christine
+army, defeated Zumalacarregui in his own defiles; but, like Don
+Mathias, he was fond of champagne suppers with actresses, and
+would always postpone a battle for a ball or a horse-race.&nbsp;
+About five years ago we were lying off Lisbon in a steamer in our
+way from Spain.&nbsp; The morning was fine, and we were upon deck
+staring vacantly about us, as is our custom, with our hands in
+our pockets, when a large barge with an awning, and manned by
+many <!-- page 21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+21</span>rowers, came dashing through the water and touched the
+vessel&rsquo;s side.&nbsp; Some people came on board, of whom,
+however, we took but little notice, continuing with our hands in
+our pockets staring sometimes at the river, and sometimes at the
+castle of Saint George, the most remarkable object connected with
+the &lsquo;white city,&rsquo; which strikes the eye from the
+Tagus.&nbsp; In a minute or two the steward came running up to us
+from the cabin, and said, &lsquo;There are two or three strange
+people below who seem to want something; but what it is we
+can&rsquo;t make out, for we don&rsquo;t understand them.&nbsp;
+Now I heard you talking &lsquo;Moors&rsquo; the other day to the
+black cook, so pray have the kindness to come and say two or
+three words in Moors to the people below.&rsquo;&nbsp; Whereupon,
+without any hesitation, we followed the steward into the
+cabin.&nbsp; &lsquo;Here&rsquo;s one who can jabber Moors with
+you,&rsquo; bawled he, bustling up to the new comers.&nbsp; On
+observing the strangers, however, who sat on one of the sofas,
+instead of addressing them in &lsquo;Moors,&rsquo; we took our
+hands out of our pockets, drew ourselves up, and making a most
+ceremonious bow, exclaimed in pure and sonorous Castilian,
+&lsquo;Cavaliers, at your feet!&nbsp; What may it please you to
+command?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>The strangers, who had looked somewhat blank at the first
+appearance of our figure, no sooner heard us address them in this
+manner than they uttered a simultaneous &lsquo;Ola!&rsquo; and,
+springing up, advanced towards us with countenances irradiated
+with smiles.&nbsp; <!-- page 22--><a name="page22"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 22</span>They were three in number, to say
+nothing of a tall loutish fellow with something of the look of a
+domestic, who stood at some distance.&nbsp; All three were
+evidently gentlemen&mdash;one was a lad about twenty, the other
+might be some ten years older&mdash;but the one who stood between
+the two, and who immediately confronted us, was evidently the
+principal.&nbsp; He might be about forty, and was tall and rather
+thin; his hair was of the darkest brown; his face strongly marked
+and exceedingly expressive; his nose was fine, so was his
+forehead, and his eyes sparkled like diamonds beneath a pair of
+bushy brows slightly grizzled.&nbsp; He had one disagreeable
+feature&mdash;his mouth&mdash;which was wide and sensual-looking
+to a high degree.&nbsp; He was dressed with elegance&mdash;his
+brown surtout was faultless; shirt of the finest Holland, frill
+to correspond, and fine ruby pin.&nbsp; In a very delicate and
+white hand he held a delicate white handkerchief perfumed with
+the best atar-de-nuar of Abderrahman.&nbsp; &lsquo;What can we
+oblige you in, cavalier?&rsquo; said we, as we looked him in the
+face: and then he took our hand, our brown hand, into his
+delicate white one, and whispered something into our
+ear&mdash;whereupon, turning round to the steward, we whispered
+something into his ear.&nbsp; &lsquo;I know nothing about
+it,&rsquo; said the steward in a surly tone&mdash;we have nothing
+of the kind on board&mdash;no such article or packet is come; and
+I tell you what, I don&rsquo;t half like these fellows; I believe
+them to be custom-house spies: it was the custom-house barge <!--
+page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+23</span>they came in, so tell them in Moors to get about their
+business.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;The man is a barbarian, sir,&rsquo;
+said we to the cavalier; &lsquo;but what you expected is
+certainly not come.&rsquo;&nbsp; A deep shade of melancholy came
+over the countenance of the cavalier: he looked us wistfully in
+the face, and sighed; then, turning to his companions, he said,
+&lsquo;We are disappointed, but there is no remedy&mdash;Vamos,
+amigos.&rsquo;&nbsp; Then, making us a low bow, he left the
+cabin, followed by his friends.&nbsp; The boat was ready, and the
+cavalier was about to descend the side of the vessel&mdash;we had
+also come on deck&mdash;suddenly our eyes met.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Pardon a stranger, cavalier, if he takes the liberty of
+asking your illustrious name.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;General
+Cordova,&rsquo; said the cavalier in an under voice.&nbsp; We
+made our lowest bow, pressed our hand to our heart&mdash;he did
+the same, and in another minute was on his way to the
+shore.&nbsp; &lsquo;Do you know who that was?&rsquo; said we to
+the steward&mdash;&lsquo;that was the great General
+Cordova.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;Cordova, Cordova,&rsquo; said the
+steward.&nbsp; &lsquo;Well, I really believe I have something for
+that name.&nbsp; A general do you say?&nbsp; What a fool I have
+been&mdash;I suppose you couldn&rsquo;t call him
+back?&rsquo;&nbsp; The next moment we were at the ship&rsquo;s
+side shouting.&nbsp; The boat had by this time nearly reached the
+Caesodrea, though, had it reached Cintra&mdash;but stay, Cintra
+is six leagues from Lisbon&mdash;and, moreover, no boat unless
+carried can reach Cintra.&nbsp; Twice did we lift up our
+voice.&nbsp; At the second shout the boat rested on its oars; and
+when we added &lsquo;Caballeros, <!-- page 24--><a
+name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>vengan
+ustedes atras,&rsquo; its head was turned round in a jiffy, and
+back it came bounding over the waters with twice its former
+rapidity.&nbsp; We are again in the cabin; the three Spaniards,
+the domestic, ourselves, and the steward; the latter stands with
+his back against the door, for the purpose of keeping out
+intruders.&nbsp; There is a small chest on the table, on which
+all eyes are fixed; and now, at a sign from Cordova, the domestic
+advances, in his hand a chisel, which he inserts beneath the lid
+of the chest, exerting all the strength of his wrist&mdash;the
+lid flies open, and discloses some hundreds of genuine Havannah
+cigars.&nbsp; &lsquo;What obligations am I not under to
+you!&rsquo; said Cordova, again taking us by the hand, &lsquo;the
+very sight of them gives me new life; long have I been expecting
+them.&nbsp; A trusty friend at Gibraltar promised to send them,
+but they have tarried many weeks: but now to dispose of this
+treasure.&rsquo;&nbsp; In a moment he and his friends were busily
+employed in filling their pockets.&nbsp; Yes Cordova, the
+renowned general, and the two secretaries of a certain legation
+at Lisbon&mdash;for such were his two friends&mdash;are stowing
+away the Havannah cigars with all the eagerness of
+contrabandistas.&nbsp; &lsquo;Rascal,&rsquo; said Cordova,
+suddenly turning to his domestic with a furious air and regular
+Spanish grimace, &lsquo;you are doing nothing; why don&rsquo;t
+you take more?&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;I can&rsquo;t hold any more,
+your worship,&rsquo; replied the latter in a piteous tone.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;My pockets are already full; and see how full I am
+here,&rsquo; he continued, <!-- page 25--><a
+name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>pointing to
+his bosom.&nbsp; &lsquo;Peace, bribon,&rsquo; said his master;
+&lsquo;if your bosom is full, fill your hat, and put it on your
+head.&nbsp; We owe you more than we can express,&rsquo; said he,
+turning round and addressing us in the blandest tones.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;But why all this mystery?&rsquo; we demanded.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;O, tobacco is a royal monopoly here, you know, so we are
+obliged to be cautious.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;But you came in the
+custom-house barge?&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;Yes, the superintendent
+of the customs lent it to us in order that we might be put to as
+little inconvenience as possible.&nbsp; Between ourselves, he
+knows all about it; he is only solicitous to avoid any
+scandal.&nbsp; Really these Portuguese have some slight tincture
+of gentility in them, though they are neither Castilian nor
+English,&rsquo; he continued, making us another low bow.&nbsp; On
+taking his departure the general gave the steward an ounce of
+gold, and having embraced us and kissed us on the cheek, said,
+&lsquo;In a few weeks I shall be in England, pray come and see me
+there.&rsquo;&nbsp; This we promised faithfully to do, but never
+had the opportunity; he went on shore with his cigars, gave a
+champagne supper to his friends, and the next morning was a
+corpse.&nbsp; What a puff of smoke is the breath of man!</p>
+<p>But here before us is a Hand-book for Spain.&nbsp; From what
+we have written above it will have been seen that we are not
+altogether unacquainted with the country; indeed we plead guilty
+to having performed the grand tour of Spain more than once; but
+why do we say guilty&mdash;it is scarcely a thing to be ashamed
+of; <!-- page 26--><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+26</span>the country is a magnificent one, and the people are a
+highly curious people, and we are by no means sorry that we have
+made the acquaintance of either.&nbsp; Detestation of the public
+policy of Spain, and a hearty abhorrence of its state creed, we
+consider by no means incompatible with a warm admiration for the
+natural beauties of the country, and even a zest for Spanish life
+and manners.&nbsp; We love a ride in Spain, and the company to be
+found in a Spanish venta; but the Lord preserve us from the
+politics of Spain, and from having anything to do with the
+Spaniards in any graver matters than interchanging cigars and
+compliments, meetings upon the road (peaceable ones of course),
+kissing and embracing (see above).&nbsp; Whosoever wishes to
+enjoy Spain or the Spaniards, let him go as a private individual,
+the humbler in appearance the better: let him call every beggar
+Cavalier, every Don a Se&ntilde;or Conde; praise the water of the
+place in which he happens to be as the best of all water; and
+wherever he goes he will meet with attention and sympathy.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;The strange Cavalier is evidently the child of honourable
+fathers, although, poor man, he appears to be, like myself,
+unfortunate&rsquo;&mdash;will be the ejaculation of many a proud
+<i>tatterdemalion</i> who has been refused charity with formal
+politeness&mdash;whereas should the stranger chuck him
+contemptuously an ounce of gold, he may be pretty sure that he
+has bought his undying hatred both in this world and the
+next.</p>
+<p><!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+27</span>Here we have a Hand-book for Spain&mdash;we mean for
+travellers in Spain&mdash;and of course for English
+travellers.&nbsp; The various hand-books which our friend Mr.
+Murray has published at different times are very well known, and
+their merit generally recognized.&nbsp; We cannot say that we
+have made use of any of them ourselves, yet in the course of our
+peregrinations we have frequently heard travellers speak in terms
+of high encomium of their general truth and exactness, and of the
+immense mass of information which they contain.&nbsp; There is
+one class of people, however, who are by no means disposed to
+look upon these publications with a favourable eye&mdash;we mean
+certain gentry generally known by the name of <i>valets de
+place</i>, for whom we confess we entertain no particular
+affection, believing them upon the whole to be about the most
+worthless, heartless, and greedy set of miscreants to be found
+upon the whole wide continent of Europe.&nbsp; These gentry, we
+have reason to know, look with a by no means favourable eye upon
+these far-famed publications of Albemarle-street.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;They steal away our honest bread,&rsquo; said one of them
+to us the other day at Venice, &lsquo;<i>I Signori forestieri</i>
+find no farther necessity for us since they have appeared; we are
+thinking of petitioning the government in order that they may be
+prohibited as heretical and republican.&nbsp; Were it not for
+these accursed books I should now have the advantage of waiting
+upon those <i>forestieri</i>&rsquo;&mdash;and he pointed to a fat
+English squire, who with a <!-- page 28--><a
+name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>blooming
+daughter under each arm, was proceeding across the piazza to St.
+Marco with no other guide than a &lsquo;Murray,&rsquo; which he
+held in his hand.&nbsp; High, however, as was the opinion which
+we had formed of these Hand-books from what we had heard
+concerning them, we were utterly unprepared for such a treat as
+has been afforded us by the perusal of the one which now lies
+before us&mdash;the Hand-book for Spain.</p>
+<p>It is evidently the production of a highly-gifted and
+accomplished man of infinite cleverness, considerable learning,
+and who is moreover thoroughly acquainted with the subject of
+which he treats.&nbsp; That he knows Spain as completely as he
+knows the lines upon the palm of his hand, is a fact which cannot
+fail of forcing itself upon the conviction of any person who
+shall merely glance over the pages; yet this is a book not to be
+glanced over, for we defy any one to take it up without being
+seized with an irresistible inclination to peruse it from the
+beginning to the end&mdash;so flowing and captivating is the
+style, and so singular and various are the objects and events
+here treated of.&nbsp; We have here a perfect panorama of Spain,
+to accomplish which we believe to have been the aim and intention
+of the author; and gigantic as the conception was, it is but
+doing him justice to say that in our opinion he has fully worked
+it out.&nbsp; But what iron application was required for the
+task&mdash;what years of enormous labour must have been spent in
+carrying it into effect even after the necessary materials had
+been collected&mdash;and then the <!-- page 29--><a
+name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>collecting of
+the materials themselves&mdash;what strange ideas of difficulty
+and danger arise in our minds at the sole mention of that most
+important point!&nbsp; But here is the work before us; the
+splendid result of the toil, travel, genius, and learning of one
+man, and that man an Englishman.&nbsp; The above is no
+overstrained panegyric; we refer our readers to the work itself,
+and then fearlessly abandon the matter to their decision.&nbsp;
+We have here all Spain before us; mountain, plain, and river,
+<i>poblado y desploblado</i>&mdash;the well known and the
+mysterious&mdash;Barcelona and Batuecas.</p>
+<p>Amidst all the delight and wonder which we have felt, we
+confess that we have been troubled by an impertinent thought of
+which we could not divest ourselves.&nbsp; We could not help
+thinking that the author, generous enough as he has been to the
+public, has been rather unjust to himself&mdash;by publishing the
+result of his labours under the present title.&nbsp; A Hand-book
+is a Hand-book after all, a very useful thing, but
+still&mdash;The fact is that we live in an age of humbug, in
+which every thing to obtain much note and reputation must depend
+less upon its own intrinsic merits than on the name it
+bears.&nbsp; The present work is about one of the best books ever
+written upon Spain; but we are afraid that it will never be
+estimated at its proper value; for after all a Hand-book is a
+Hand-book.&nbsp; Permit us, your Ladyship, to introduce to you
+the learned, talented, and imaginative author of
+the&mdash;shocking!&nbsp; Her Ladyship would faint, and would
+<!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+30</span>never again admit ourselves and our friends to her
+<i>soir&eacute;es</i>.&nbsp; What a pity that this delightful
+book does not bear a more romantic sounding
+title&mdash;&rsquo;Wanderings in Spain,&rsquo; for example; or
+yet better, &lsquo;The Wonders of the Peninsula.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>But are we not ourselves doing our author injustice?&nbsp; Aye
+surely; the man who could write a book of the character of the
+one which we have at present under notice, is above all such
+paltry considerations, so we may keep our pity for
+ourselves.&nbsp; If it please him to cast his book upon the
+waters in the present shape, what have we to do but to be
+grateful?&mdash;we forgot for a moment with what description of
+man we have to do.&nbsp; This is no vain empty coxcomb; he cannot
+but be aware that he has accomplished a great task; but such
+paltry considerations as those to which we have alluded above are
+not for him but for writers of a widely different stamp with whom
+we have nothing to do.</p>
+<h3><span class="smcap">What to observe in Spain</span>.</h3>
+<p>Before we proceed to point out the objects best worth seeing
+in the Peninsula, many of which are to be seen there only, it may
+be as well to mention what is <i>not</i> to be seen: there is no
+such loss of time as finding this out oneself, after weary chace
+and wasted hour.&nbsp; Those who expect to find well-garnished
+arsenals, libraries, restaurants, charitable or literary
+institutions, canals, railroads, tunnels, suspension-bridges,
+<!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+31</span>steam-engines, omnibuses, manufactories, polytechnic
+galleries, pale-ale breweries, and similar appliances and
+appurtenances of a high state of political, social, and
+commercial civilisation, had better stay at home.&nbsp; In Spain
+there are no turnpike-trust meetings, no quarter-sessions, no
+courts of <i>justice</i>, according to the real meaning of that
+word, no treadmills, no boards of guardians, no chairmen,
+directors, masters-extraordinary of the court of chancery, no
+assistant poor-law commissioners.&nbsp; There are no
+anti-tobacco-teetotal-temperance meetings, no auxiliary
+missionary propagating societies, nothing in the blanket and
+lying-in asylum line, nothing, in short, worth a revising
+barrister of three years&rsquo; standing&rsquo;s notice.&nbsp;
+Spain is no country for the political economist, beyond affording
+an example of the decline of the wealth of nations, and offering
+a wide topic on errors to be avoided, as well as for experimental
+theories, plans of reform and amelioration.&nbsp; In Spain,
+Nature reigns; she has there lavished her utmost prodigality of
+soil and climate which a bad government has for the last three
+centuries been endeavouring to counteract.&nbsp; <i>El cielo y
+suelo es bueno</i>, <i>el entresuelo malo</i>, and man, the
+occupier of the Peninsula <i>entresol</i>, uses, or rather
+abuses, with incurious apathy the goods with which the gods have
+provided him.&nbsp; Spain is a <i>terra incognita</i> to
+naturalists, geologists, and every branch of ists and
+ologists.&nbsp; The material is as superabundant as native
+labourers and operatives are deficient.&nbsp; All <!-- page
+32--><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>these
+interesting branches of inquiry, healthful and agreeable, as
+being out-of-door pursuits, and bringing the amateur in close
+contact with nature, offer to embryo authors, who are ambitious
+to <i>book something new</i>, a more worthy subject than the
+<i>decies repetita</i> descriptions of bull-fights and the
+natural history of ollas and ventas.&nbsp; Those who aspire to
+the romantic, the poetical, the sentimental, the artistical, the
+antiquarian, the classical, in short, to any of the sublime and
+beautiful lines, will find both in the past and present state of
+Spain subjects enough, in wandering with lead-pencil and
+note-book through this singular country, which hovers between
+Europe and Africa, between civilisation and barbarism; this is
+the land of the green valley and barren mountain, of the
+boundless plain and the broken sierra, now of Elysian gardens of
+the vine, the olive, the orange, and the aloe, then of trackless,
+vast, silent, uncultivated wastes, the heritage of the wild
+bee.&nbsp; Here we fly from the dull uniformity, the polished
+monotony of Europe, to the racy freshness of an original,
+unchanged country, where antiquity treads on the heels of to-day,
+where Paganism disputes the very altar with Christianity, where
+indulgence and luxury contend with privation and poverty, where a
+want of all that is generous or merciful is blended with the most
+devoted heroic virtues, where the most cold-blooded cruelty is
+linked with the fiery passions of Africa, where ignorance and
+erudition stand in violent and striking contrast.</p>
+<p><!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+33</span>Here let the antiquarian pore over the stirring
+memorials of many thousand years, the vestiges of Ph&oelig;nician
+enterprise, of Roman magnificence, of Moorish elegance, in that
+storehouse of ancient customs, that repository of all elsewhere
+long forgotten and passed by; here let him gaze upon those
+classical monuments, unequalled almost in Greece or Italy, and on
+those fairy Aladdin palaces, the creatures of Oriental
+gorgeousness and imagination, with which Spain alone can enchant
+the dull European; here let the man of feeling dwell on the
+poetry of her envy-disarming decay, fallen from her high estate,
+the dignity of a dethroned monarch, borne with unrepining
+self-respect, the last consolation of the innately noble, which
+no adversity can take away; here let the lover of art feed his
+eyes with the mighty masterpieces of Italian art, when Raphael
+and Titian strove to decorate the palaces of Charles, the great
+emperor of the age of Leo X., or with the living nature of
+Velazquez and Murillo, whose paintings are truly to be seen in
+Spain alone; here let the artist sketch the lowly mosque of the
+Moor, the lofty cathedral of the Christian, in which God is
+worshipped in a manner as nearly befitting His glory as the power
+and wealth of finite man can reach; art and nature here offer
+subjects, from the feudal castle, the vasty Escorial, the
+rock-built alcazar of imperial Toledo, the sunny towers of
+stately Seville, to the eternal snows and lovely vega of Granada:
+let the geologist clamber <!-- page 34--><a
+name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>over
+mountains of marble, and metal-pregnant sierras, let the botanist
+cull from the wild hothouse of nature plants unknown, unnumbered,
+matchless in colour, and breathing the aroma of the sweet south;
+let all, learned or unlearned, listen to the song, the guitar,
+the Castanet; let all mingle with the gay, good-humoured,
+temperate peasantry, the finest in the world, free, manly, and
+independent, yet courteous and respectful; let all live with the
+noble, dignified, high-bred, self-respecting Spaniard; let all
+share in their easy, courteous society; let all admire their
+dark-eyed women, so frank and natural, to whom the voice of all
+ages and nations has conceded the palm of attraction, to whom
+Venus has bequeathed her magic girdle of grace and fascination;
+let all&mdash;<i>sed ohe</i>! <i>jam satis</i>&mdash;enough for
+starting on this expedition, where, as Don Quixote said, there
+are opportunities for what are called adventures elbow deep.</p>
+<p>The following account of the rivers of Spain would do credit
+to the pen of Robertson:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;There are six great rivers in
+Spain,&mdash;the arteries which run between the seven mountain
+chains, the vertebras of the geological skeleton.&nbsp; These six
+watersheds are each intersected in their extent by others on a
+minor scale, by valleys and indentations, in each of which runs
+its own stream.&nbsp; Thus the rains and melted snows are all
+collected in an infinity of ramifications, and carried by these
+tributary conduits into one of the six main trunks, or great
+rivers: all these, <!-- page 35--><a name="page35"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 35</span>with the exception of the Ebro, empty
+themselves into the Atlantic.&nbsp; The Duero and Tagus,
+unfortunately for Spain, disembogue in Portugal, thus becoming a
+portion of a foreign dominion exactly where their commercial
+importance is the greatest.&nbsp; Philip II. saw the true value
+of the possession of Portugal, which rounded and consolidated
+Spain, and insured to her the possession of these valuable
+outlets of internal produce, and inlets for external
+commerce.&nbsp; Portugal annexed to Spain gave more real power to
+his throne than the dominion of entire continents across the
+Atlantic.&nbsp; The <i>Mi&ntilde;o</i>, which is the shortest of
+these rivers, runs through a bosom of fertility.&nbsp; The
+<i>Tajo</i>, Tagus, which the fancy of poets has sanded with gold
+and embanked with roses, tracks much of its dreary way through
+rocks and comparative barrenness.&nbsp; The <i>Guadiana</i>
+creeps through lonely Estremadura, infecting the low plains with
+miasma.&nbsp; The <i>Guadalquivir</i> eats out its deep banks
+amid the sunny olive-clad regions of Andalucia, as the Ebro
+divides the levels of Arragon.&nbsp; Spain abounds with brackish
+streams, <i>Salados</i>, and with salt-mines, or saline deposits,
+after the evaporation of the sea-waters.&nbsp; The central soil
+is strongly impregnated with saltpetre: always arid, it every day
+is becoming more so, from the singular antipathy which the
+inhabitants of the interior have against trees.&nbsp; There is
+nothing to check the power of evaporation, no shelter to protect
+or preserve moisture.&nbsp; The soil becomes more <!-- page
+36--><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>and
+more baked and calcined; in some parts it has almost ceased to be
+available for cultivation: another serious evil, which arises
+from want of plantations, is, that the slopes of hills are
+everywhere liable to constant denudation of soil after heavy
+rain.&nbsp; There is nothing to break the descent of the water;
+hence the naked, barren stone summits of many of the sierras,
+which have been pared and peeled of every particle capable of
+nourishing vegetation; they are skeletons where life is
+extinct.&nbsp; Not only is the soil thus lost, but the detritus
+washed down either forms bars at the mouths of rivers, or chokes
+up and raises their beds; they are thus rendered liable to
+overflow their banks, and convert the adjoining plains into
+pestilential swamps.&nbsp; The supply of water, which is afforded
+by periodical rains, and which ought to support the reservoirs of
+rivers, is carried off at once in violent floods, rather than in
+a gentle gradual disembocation.&nbsp; The volume in the principal
+rivers of Spain has diminished, and is diminishing.&nbsp; Rivers
+which were navigable are so no longer; the artificial canals
+which were to have been substituted remain unfinished: the
+progress of deterioration advances, while little is done to
+counteract or amend what every year must render more difficult
+and expensive, while the means of repair and correction will
+diminish in equal proportion, from the poverty occasioned by the
+evil, and by the fearful extent which it will be allowed to
+attain.&nbsp; The rivers which are really adapted to <!-- page
+37--><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+37</span>navigation are, however, only those which are
+perpetually fed by those tributary streams that flow down from
+mountains which are covered with snow all the year, and these are
+not many.&nbsp; The majority of Spanish rivers are very scanty of
+water during the summer time, and very rapid in their flow when
+filled by rains or melting snow: during these periods they are
+impracticable for boats.&nbsp; They are, moreover, much exhausted
+by being drained off, bled, for the purposes of artificial
+irrigation.&nbsp; The scarcity of rain in the central table-lands
+is much against a regular supply of water to the springs of the
+rivers: the water is soon sucked up by a parched, dusty, and
+thirsty soil, or evaporated by the dryness of the
+atmosphere.&nbsp; Many of the <i>sierras</i> are indeed covered
+with snow, but to no great depth, and the coating soon melts
+under the summer suns, and passes rapidly away.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Here we have a sunny little sketch of a certain locality at
+Seville; it is too life-like not to have been taken on the
+spot:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;The sunny flats under the old Moorish
+walls, which extend between the gates of <i>Carmona</i> and <i>La
+Carne</i>, are the haunts of idlers and of gamesters.&nbsp; The
+lower classes of Spaniards are constantly gambling at cards:
+groups are to be seen playing all day long for wine, love, or
+coppers, in the sun, or under their vine-trellises.&nbsp; There
+is generally some well-known cock of the walk, a bully, or
+<i>guapo</i>, who will come up and lay his hands on the cards,
+and say, &lsquo;No one shall play <!-- page 38--><a
+name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>here but with
+mine&rsquo;&mdash;<i>aqu&iacute; no se juega sino con mis
+barajas</i>.&nbsp; If the gamblers are cowed, they give him
+<i>dos cuartos</i>, a halfpenny each.&nbsp; If, however, one of
+the challenged be a spirited fellow, he defies him.&nbsp;
+<i>Aqu&iacute; no se cobra el barato sino con un punal de
+Albacete</i>&mdash;&lsquo;You get no change here except out of an
+Albacete knife.&rsquo;&nbsp; If the defiance be accepted,
+<i>vamos alla</i> is the answer&mdash;&lsquo;Let&rsquo;s go to
+it.&rsquo;&nbsp; There&rsquo;s an end then of the cards, all
+flock to the more interesting <i>&eacute;cart&eacute;</i>;
+instances have occurred, where Greek meets Greek, of their tying
+the two advanced feet together, and yet remaining fencing with
+knife and cloak for a quarter of an hour before the blow be
+dealt.&nbsp; The knife is held firmly, the thumb is pressed
+straight on the blade, and calculated either for the cut or
+thrust, to chip bread and kill men.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Apropos of Seville.&nbsp; It is sometimes called we believe La
+Capital de Majeza; the proper translation of which we conceive to
+be the Head Quarters of Foolery, for nothing more absurd and
+contemptible than this Majeza ever came within the sphere of our
+contemplation.&nbsp; Nevertheless it constitutes the chief glory
+of the Sevillians.&nbsp; Every Sevillian, male or female, rich or
+poor, handsome or ugly, aspires at a certain period of life to
+the character of the majo or maja.&nbsp; We are not going to
+waste either space or time by entering into any lengthened detail
+of this ridiculous nonsense: indeed, it is quite unnecessary;
+almost every one of the books published on Spain, <!-- page
+39--><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>and
+their name at present is legion, being crammed with details of
+this same Majeza&mdash;a happy combination of insolence,
+ignorance, frippery, and folly.&nbsp; The majo or Tomfool struts
+about the streets dressed something like a merry Andrew with
+jerkin and tight hose, a faja or girdle of crimson silk round his
+waist, in which is sometimes stuck a dagger, his neck exposed,
+and a queer kind of half-peaked hat on his head.&nbsp; He smokes
+continually, thinks there is no place like Seville, and that he
+is the prettiest fellow in Seville.&nbsp; His favourite word is
+&lsquo;Carajo!&rsquo;&nbsp; The maja or she-simpleton, wears a
+fan and mantilla, exhibits a swimming and affected gait, thinks
+that there&rsquo;s no place like Seville, that she is the flower
+of Seville&mdash;Carai! is her favourite exclamation.&nbsp; But
+enough of these poor ridiculous creatures.&nbsp; Yet, ridiculous
+in every respect as they are, these majos and majas find
+imitators and admirers in people who might be expected to look
+down with contempt upon them and their follies; we have seen, and
+we tell it with shame, we have seen Englishmen dressed in
+Tomfool&rsquo;s livery lounging about Seville breathing out smoke
+and affecting the airs of hijos de Sevilla; and what was yet
+worse, fair blooming Englishwomen, forgetful of their rank as
+daughters of England, appearing &agrave; la maja on the banks of
+the Guadalquivir, with fan and mantilla, carai and caramba.&nbsp;
+We wish sincerely that our countrymen and women whilst travelling
+abroad would always bear in mind that they <!-- page 40--><a
+name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>can only be
+respected or respectable so long as they maintain their proper
+character&mdash;that of Englishmen and Englishwomen;&mdash;but in
+attempting to appear French, Italians, and Spaniards, they only
+make themselves supremely ridiculous.&nbsp; As the tree falls, so
+must it lie.&nbsp; They are children of England; they cannot
+alter that fact, therefore let them make the most of it, and
+after all it is no bad thing to be a child of England.&nbsp; But
+what a poor feeble mind must be his who would deny his country
+under any circumstances!&nbsp; Therefore, gentle English
+travellers, when you go to Seville, amongst other places, appear
+there as English, though not obtrusively, and do not disgrace
+your country by imitating the airs and graces of creatures whom
+the other Spaniards, namely, Castilians, Manchegans, Aragonese,
+&amp;c., pronounce to be fools.</p>
+<h3>THE NORMANS IN SPAIN.</h3>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;In the ninth century, the Normans or
+Northmen made piratical excursions on the W. coast of
+Spain.&nbsp; They passed, in 843, from Lisbon up to the straits
+and everywhere, as in France, overcame the unprepared natives,
+plundering, burning, and destroying.&nbsp; They captured even
+Seville itself, September 30, 844, but were met by the Cordovese
+Kalif, beaten, and expelled.&nbsp; They were called by the Moors
+<i>Majus</i>, <i>Madjous</i>, <i>Magioges</i> (Conde, i. 282),
+and by the early Spanish annalists <i>Almajuzes</i>.&nbsp; The
+root has been <!-- page 41--><a name="page41"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 41</span>erroneously derived from
+&Mu;&iota;y&omicron;&sigmaf;, Magus, magicians or supernatural
+beings, as they were almost held to be.&nbsp; The term
+<i>Madjous</i> was, strictly speaking, applied by the Moors to
+those Berbers and Africans who were Pagans or Muwallads,
+<i>i.e.</i> not believers in the Khoran.&nbsp; The true etymology
+is that of the Gog and Magog so frequently mentioned by Ezekiel
+(xxxviii. and xxxix.) and in the Revelations (xx. 8) as ravagers
+of the earth and nations, May-Gogg, &ldquo;he that
+dissolveth,&rdquo;&mdash;the fierce Normans appeared, coming no
+one knew from whence, just when the minds of men were trembling
+at the approach of the millennium, and thus were held to be the
+forerunners of the destroyers of the world.&nbsp; This name of
+indefinite gigantic power survived in the <i>Mogigangas</i>, or
+terrific images, which the Spaniards used to parade in their
+religious festivals, like the Gogs and Magogs of our civic wise
+men of the East.&nbsp; Thus Andalucia being the half-way point
+between the N. and S.E., became the meeting-place of the two
+great ravaging swarms which have desolated Europe: here the
+stalwart children of frozen Norway, the worshippers of Odin,
+clashed against the Saracens from torrid Arabia, the followers of
+Mahomet.&nbsp; Nor can a greater proof be adduced of the power
+and relative superiority of the Cordovese Moors over the other
+nations of Europe, than this, their successful resistance to
+those fierce invaders, who overran without difficulty the coasts
+of England, France, Apulia, and Sicily: conquerors everywhere
+<!-- page 42--><a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+42</span>else, here they were driven back in disgrace.&nbsp;
+Hence the bitter hatred of the Normans against the Spanish Moors,
+hence their alliances with the Catalans, where a Norman
+impression yet remains in architecture; but, as in Sicily, these
+barbarians, unrecruited from the North, soon died away, or were
+assimilated as usual with the more polished people, whom they had
+subdued by mere superiority of brute force.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>If the Moors called the Norsemen Al Madjus, which according to
+our author signifies Gog and Magog, the Norsemen retorted by a
+far more definite and expressive nickname; this was Blue-skins or
+Bluemen, doubtless in allusion to the livid countenances of the
+Moors.&nbsp; The battles between the Moors and the Northmen are
+frequently mentioned in the Sagas, none of which, however, are of
+higher antiquity than the eleventh century.&nbsp; In none of
+these chronicles do we find any account of this raid upon Seville
+in 844; it was probably a very inconsiderable affair magnified by
+the Moors and their historians.&nbsp; Snorre speaks of the
+terrible attack of Sigurd, surnamed the Jorsal wanderer, or
+Jerusalem pilgrim, upon Lisbon and Cintra, both of which places
+he took, destroying the Moors by hundreds.&nbsp; He subsequently
+&lsquo;harried&rsquo; the southern coasts of Spain on his voyage
+to Constantinople.&nbsp; But this occurred some two hundred years
+after the affair of Seville mentioned in the Handbook.&nbsp; It
+does not appear that the Norse ever made any serious attempt to
+<!-- page 43--><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+43</span>establish their power in Spain; had they done so we have
+no doubt that they would have succeeded.&nbsp; We entertain all
+due respect for the courage and chivalry of the Moors, especially
+those of Cordova, but we would have backed the Norse, especially
+the pagan Norse, against the best of them.&nbsp; The Biarkemal
+would soon have drowned the Moorish &lsquo;Lelhies.&rsquo;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Thou Har, who grip&rsquo;st thy foeman<br
+/>
+Right hard, and Rolf the bowman,<br />
+And many, many others,<br />
+The forky lightning&rsquo;s brothers,<br />
+Wake&mdash;not for banquet table,<br />
+Wake&mdash;not with maids to gabble,<br />
+But wake for rougher sporting,<br />
+For Hildur&rsquo;s bloody courting.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Under the head of La Mancha our author has much to say on the
+subject of Don Quixote; and to the greater part of what he says
+we yield our respectful assent.&nbsp; His observations upon the
+two principal characters in that remarkable work display much
+sound as well as original criticism.&nbsp; We cannot however
+agree with him in preferring the second part, which we think a
+considerable falling off from the first.&nbsp; We should scarcely
+believe the two parts were written by the same hand.&nbsp; We
+have read through both various times, but we have always sighed
+on coming to the conclusion of the first.&nbsp; It was formerly
+our custom to read the Don &lsquo;pervasively&rsquo; once every
+<!-- page 44--><a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+44</span>three years; we still keep up that custom <i>in
+part</i>, and hope to do so whilst life remains.&nbsp; We say
+<i>in part</i>, because we now conclude with the first part going
+no farther.&nbsp; We have little sympathy with the pranks played
+off upon Sancho and his master by the Duke and Duchess, to the
+description of which so much space is devoted; and as for the
+affair of Sancho&rsquo;s government at Barataria, it appears to
+us full of inconsistency and absurdity.&nbsp; Barataria, we are
+told, was a place upon the Duke&rsquo;s estate, consisting of two
+or three thousand inhabitants; and of such a place it was very
+possible for a nobleman to have made the poor squire governor;
+but we no sooner get to Barataria than we find ourselves not in a
+townlet, but in a <i>capital</i> in Madrid.&nbsp; The governor at
+night makes his rounds, attended by &lsquo;an immense
+watch;&rsquo; he wanders from one street to another for hours; he
+encounters all kinds of adventures, not mock but real adventures,
+and all kinds of characters, not mock but real characters; there
+is talk of bull-circuses, theatres, gambling-houses, and such
+like; and all this in a place of two or three thousand
+inhabitants, in which, by the way, nothing but a cat is ever
+heard stirring after eight o&rsquo;clock; this we consider to be
+carrying the joke rather too far; and it is not Sancho but the
+reader who is joked with.&nbsp; But the first part is a widely
+different affair: all the scenes are admirable.&nbsp; Should we
+live a thousand years, we should never forget the impression made
+upon us by the adventure <!-- page 45--><a
+name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>of the
+corpse, where the Don falls upon the priests who are escorting
+the bier by torch light, and by the sequel thereto, his midnight
+adventures in the Brown Mountain.&nbsp; We can only speak of
+these scenes as astonishing&mdash;they have never been equalled
+in their line.&nbsp; There is another wonderful book which
+describes what we may call the city life of Spain, as the other
+describes the vida del campo&mdash;we allude of course to Le
+Sage&rsquo;s novel, which as a whole we prefer to Don Quixote,
+the characters introduced being certainly more true to nature
+than those which appear in the other great work.&nbsp; Shame to
+Spain that she has not long since erected a statue to Le Sage,
+who has done so much to illustrate her; but miserable envy and
+jealousy have been at the bottom of the feeling ever manifested
+in Spain towards that illustrious name.&nbsp; There are some few
+stains in the grand work of Le Sage.&nbsp; He has imitated
+without acknowledgment three or four passages contained in the
+life of Obregon, a curious work, of which we have already spoken,
+and to which on some future occasion we may perhaps revert.</p>
+<p>But the Hand-book?&nbsp; We take leave of it with the highest
+respect and admiration for the author; and recommend it not only
+to travellers in Spain, but to the public in general, as a work
+of a very high order, written <i>con amore</i> by a man who has
+devoted his whole time, talents, and all the various treasures of
+an extensive learning to its execution.&nbsp; We repeat that <!--
+page 46--><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+46</span>we were totally unprepared for such a literary treat as
+he has here placed before us.&nbsp; It is our sincere wish that
+at his full convenience he will favour us with something which
+may claim consanguinity with the present work.&nbsp; It hardly
+becomes us to point out to an author subjects on which to
+exercise his powers.&nbsp; We shall, however, take the liberty of
+hinting that a good history of Spain does not exist, at least in
+English&mdash;and that not even Shelton produced a satisfactory
+translation of the great gem of Spanish literature, &lsquo;The
+Life and Adventures of Don Quixote.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 47--><a
+name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span><span
+class="smcap">London</span>:<br />
+Printed for <span class="smcap">Thomas J. Wise</span>, Hampstead,
+N.W.<br />
+<i>Edition limited to Thirty Copies</i></p>
+<h2>Footnote:</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote13"></a><a href="#citation13"
+class="footnote">[13]</a>&nbsp; Relaciones de la vida del
+Escudero Marcos de Obregon.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE BIBLE
+IN SPAIN***</p>
+<pre>
+
+
+***** This file should be named 29469-h.htm or 29469-h.zip******
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