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diff --git a/29469.txt b/29469.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f06375 --- /dev/null +++ b/29469.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1318 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Supplementary Chapter to the Bible in +Spain, by George Borrow, Edited by Thomas J. Wise + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Supplementary Chapter to the Bible in Spain + + +Author: George Borrow + +Editor: Thomas J. Wise + +Release Date: July 20, 2009 [eBook #29469] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE +BIBLE IN SPAIN*** + + +Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, +UK, for kindly supplying the images from which this transcription was +made. + + [Picture: Cover of pamphlet] + + [Picture: Facsimile of last page of pamphlet] + + + + + + A + SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER + TO + THE BIBLE IN SPAIN + + + _Inspired by_ + FORD'S "HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN SPAIN." + + BY + GEORGE BORROW + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION + 1913 + + + + +PREFATORY NOTE + + +In 1845 Richard Ford published his _Hand-Book for Travellers in Spain and +Readers at Home_ [2 Vols. 8vo.], a work which still commands attention, +and the compilation of which is said to have occupied its author for more +than sixteen years. In conformity with the wish of Ford (who had himself +favourably reviewed _The Bible in Spain_) Borrow undertook to produce a +study of the _Hand-Book_ for _The Quarterly Review_. The following Essay +was the result. + +But the Essay, brilliant as it is, was not a 'Review.' Not until page 6 +of the suppressed edition (p. 25 of the present edition) is reached is +the _Hand-Book_ even mentioned, and but little concerning it appears +thereafter. Lockhart, then editing the _Quarterly_, proposed to render +it more suitable for the purpose for which it had been intended by +himself interpolating a series of extracts from Ford's volumes. But +Borrow would tolerate no interference with his work, and promptly +withdrew the Essay, which had meanwhile been set up in type. The +following letter, addressed by Lockhart to Ford, sufficiently explains +the position: + + _London_, + _June_ 13_th_, 1845. + + _Dear Ford_, + + '_El Gitano_' _sent me a paper on the_ "_Hand-Book_" _which I read + with delight_. _It seemed just another capital chapter of his_ + "_Bible in Spain_," _and I thought_, _as there was hardly a word of_ + '_review_,' _and no extract giving the least notion of the peculiar + merits and style of the_ "_Hand-Book_," _that I could easily_ (_as is + my constant custom_) _supply the humbler part myself_, _and so + present at once a fair review of the work_, _and a lively specimen of + our friend's vein of eloquence in exordio_. + + _But_, _behold_! _he will not allow any tampering_ . . . _I now write + to condole with you_; _for I am very sensible_, _after all_, _that + you run a great risk in having your book committed to hands far less + competent for treating it or any other book of Spanish interest than + Borrow's would have been_ . . . _but I consider that_, _after all_, + _in the case of a new author_, _it is the first duty of_ "_The + Quarterly Review_" _to introduce that author fully and fairly to the + public_. + + _Ever Yours Truly_, + _J. G. Lockhart_. + +The action of Lockhart in seeking to amend his Essay excited Borrow's +keenest indignation, and induced him to produce the following amusing +squib:-- + + _Would it not be more dignified_ + _To run up debts on every side_, + _And then to pay your debts refuse_, + _Than write for rascally Reviews_? + _And lectures give to great and small_, + _In pot-house_, _theatre_, _and town-hall_, + _Wearing your brains by night and day_ + _To win the means to pay your way_? + _I vow by him who reigns in_ [_hell_], + _It would be more respectable_! + +This squib was never printed by Borrow. I chanced to light upon it +recently in a packet of his as yet unpublished verse. + +The Essay itself is far too interesting, and far too characteristic of +its author, to be permitted to remain any longer inaccessible; hence the +present reprint. The original is a folio pamphlet, extending to twelve +numbered pages. Of this pamphlet no more than two copies would appear to +have been struck off, and both are fortunately extant to-day. One of +these was formerly in the possession of Dr. William J. Knapp, and is now +the property of the Hispanic Society of New York. The second example is +in my own library. This was Borrow's own copy, and is freely corrected +in his handwriting throughout. From this copy the present edition has +been printed, and in preparing it the whole of the corrections and +additions made by Borrow to the text of the original pamphlet have been +adopted. + +A reduced facsimile of the last page of the pamphlet serves as +frontispiece to the present volume. + + T. J. W. + + + + +A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE BIBLE IN SPAIN + + +Does Gibraltar, viewing the horrors which are continually taking place in +Spain, and which, notwithstanding their frequent grotesqueness, have +drawn down upon that country the indignation of the entire civilized +world, never congratulate herself on her severance from the peninsula, +for severed she is morally and physically? Who knows what is passing in +the bosom of the old Rock? Yet on observing the menacing look which she +casts upon Spain across the neutral ground, we have thought that provided +she could speak it would be something after the following fashion:-- + +Accursed land! I hate thee; and, far from being a defence, will +invariably prove a thorn in thy side, a source of humiliation and +ignominy, a punishment for thy sorceries, thy abominations and +idolatries--thy cruelty, thy cowardice and miserable pride; I will look +on whilst thy navies are burnt in my many bays, and thy armies perish +before my eternal walls--I will look on whilst thy revenues are defrauded +and ruined, and thy commerce becomes a bye word and a laughing-stock, and +I will exult the while and shout--'I am an instrument in the hand of the +Lord, even I, the old volcanic hill--I have pertained to the Moor and the +Briton--they have unfolded their banners from my heights, and I have been +content--I have belonged solely to the irrational beings of nature, and +no human hum invaded my solitudes; the eagle nestled on my airy crags, +and the tortoise and the sea-calf dreamed in my watery caverns +undisturbed; even then I was content, for I was aloof from Spain and her +sons. The days of my shame were those when I was clasped in her embraces +and was polluted by her crimes; when I was a forced partaker in her bad +faith, soul-subduing tyranny, and degrading fanaticism; when I heard only +her bragging tongue, and was redolent of nought but the breath of her +smoke-loving borrachos; when I was a prison for her convicts and a +garrison for her rabble soldiery--Spain, accursed land, I hate thee: may +I, like my African neighbour, become a house and a retreat only for vile +baboons rather than the viler Spaniard. May I sink beneath the billows, +which is my foretold fate, ere I become again a parcel of Spain--accursed +land, I hate thee, and so long as I can uphold my brow will still look +menacingly on Spain.' + +Strong language this, it will perhaps be observed--but when the rocks +speak strong language may be expected, and it is no slight matter which +will set stones a-speaking. Surely, if ever there was a time for +Gibraltar to speak, it is the present, and we leave it to our readers to +determine whether the above is not a real voice from Gibraltar heard by +ourselves one moonlight night at Algeziras, as with our hands in our +pockets we stood on the pier, staring across the bay in the direction of +the rock. + +'Poor Spain, unfortunate Spain!' we have frequently heard Spaniards +exclaim. Were it worth while asking the Spaniard a reason for anything +he says or does, we should be tempted to ask him why he apostrophizes his +country in this manner. If she is wretched and miserable and bleeding, +has she anything but what she richly deserves, and has brought down upon +her own head? By Spain we of course mean the Spanish nation--for as for +the country, it is so much impassible matter, so much rock and sand, +chalk and clay--with which we have for the moment nothing to do. It has +pleased her to play an arrant jade's part, the part of a _mula falsa_, a +vicious mule, and now, and not for the first time, the brute has been +chastised--there she lies on the road amidst the dust, the blood running +from her nose. Did our readers ever peruse the book of the adventures of +the Squire Marcos de Obregon? {13} No! How should our readers have +perused the scarce book of the life and adventures of Obregon? never +mind! we to whom it has been given to hear the voice of Gibraltar whilst +standing on the pier of Algeziras one moonlight evening, with our hands +in our pockets, jingling the cuartos which they contained, have read with +considerable edification the adventures of the said Marcos, and will tell +the reader a story out of the book of his life. So it came to pass that +in one of his journeys the Senor de Obregon found himself on the back of +a mule, which, to use his own expression, had the devil in her body, a +regular jade, which would neither allow herself to be shod or saddled +without making all the resistance in her power--was in the habit of +flinging herself down whenever she came to a sandy place, and rolling +over with her heels in the air. An old muleteer, who observed her +performing this last prank, took pity on her rider, and said, "Gentleman +student, I wish to give you a piece of advice with respect to that +animal"--and then he gave Marcos the piece of advice, which Marcos +received with the respect due to a man of the muleteer's experience, and +proceeded on his way. Coming to a sandy place shortly after, he felt +that the mule was, as usual, about to give way to her _penchant_, +whereupon, without saying a word to any body, he followed the advice of +the muleteer and with a halter which he held in his hand struck with all +fury the jade between the two ears. Down fell the mule in the dust, and, +rolling on her side, turned up the whites of her eyes. 'And as I stood +by looking at her,' said Marcos, 'I was almost sorry that I had struck +her so hard, seeing how she turned up the whites of her eyes. At length, +however, I took a luncheon of bread, and steeping it in wine from my +bota, I thrust it between her jaws, and thus revived her; and I assure +you that from that moment she never played any tricks with me, but +behaved both formally and genteelly under all circumstances, but +especially when going over sandy ground. I am told, however, that as +soon as I parted with her she fell into her old pranks, refusing to be +shod or saddled--rushing up against walls and scarifying the leg of her +rider, and flinging herself down in all sandy places.' Now we say, +without the slightest regard to contradiction, knowing that no one save a +Spaniard will contradict us, that Spain has invariably proved herself +just such a jade as the mule of the cavalier De Obregon: with a kind and +merciful rider what will she not do? Look at her, how she refuses to be +bridled or shod--how she scarifies the poor man's leg against rude walls, +how ill she behaves in sandy places, and how occasionally diving her head +between her fore-legs and kicking up behind she causes him to perform a +somersault in the air to the no small discomposure of his Spanish +gravity; but let her once catch a Tartar who will give her the garrote +right well between the ears, and she can behave as well as any body. One +of the best of her riders was Charles the First. How the brute lay +floundering in the dust on the plains of Villalar, turning up the whites +of her eyes, the blood streaming thick from her dishonest nose! There +she lay, the Fleming staring at her, with the garrote in his hand. +That's right, Fleming! give it her again--and withhold the sopa till the +very last extremity. + +Then there was Napoleon again, who made her taste the garrote; she was +quiet enough under him, but he soon left her and went to ride other +jades, and his place was filled by those who, though they had no liking +for her, had not vigour enough to bring her down on her side. She is +down, however, at present, if ever she was in her life--blood streaming +from her nose amidst the dust, the whites of her eyes turned up very +much, whilst staring at her with uplifted garrote stands Narvaez. + +Yes, there lies Spain, and who can pity her?--she could kick off the kind +and generous Espartero, who, though he had a stout garrote in his hand, +and knew what kind of conditioned creature she was, forbore to strike +her, to his own mighty cost and damage. She kicked off him, and took +up--whom? a regular muleteer, neither more nor less. We have nothing +further to say about him; he is at present in his proper calling, we bear +him no ill-will, and only wish that God may speed him. But never shall +we forget the behaviour of the jade some two years ago. O the yell that +she set up, the true mulish yell--knowing all the time that she had +nothing to fear from her rider, knowing that he would not strike her +between the ears. 'Come here, you scoundrel, and we will make a +bell-clapper of your head, and of your bowels a string to hang it +by'--that was the cry of the Barcelonese, presently echoed in every town +and village throughout Spain--and that cry was raised immediately after +he had remitted the mulct which he had imposed on Barcelona for +unprovoked rebellion. But the mule is quiet enough now; no such yell is +heard now at Barcelona, or in any nook or corner of Spain. No, no--the +Caballero was kicked out of the saddle, and the muleteer sprang up--There +she lies, the brute! _Bien hecho_, _Narvaez_--Don't spare the garrote +nor the mule! + +It is very possible that from certain passages which we have written +above, some of our readers may come to the conclusion that we must be +partisans either of Espartero or Narvaez, perhaps of both. In such case, +however, they would do us wrong. Having occasion at present to speak of +Spain, we could hardly omit taking some notice of what has been lately +going on in the country, and of the two principal performers in the late +_funcion_. We have not been inattentive observers of it; and have, +moreover, some knowledge of the country; but any such feeling as +partisanship we disclaim. Of Narvaez, the muleteer, we repeat that we +have nothing more to say, his character is soon read. Of the +caballero--of Espartero, we take this opportunity of observing that the +opinion which we at first entertained of him, grounded on what we had +heard, was anything but favourable. We thought him a grasping ambitious +man; and, like many others in Spain, merely wishing for power for the +lust thereof; but we were soon undeceived by his conduct when the reins +of government fell into his hand. That he was ambitious we have no +doubt; but his ambition was of the noble and generous kind; he wished to +become the regenerator of his country--to heal her sores, and at the same +time to reclaim her vices--to make her really strong and powerful--and, +above all, independent of France. But all his efforts were foiled by the +wilfulness of the animal--she observed his gentleness, which she mistook +for fear, a common mistake with jades--gave a kick, and good bye to +Espartero! There is, however, one blot in Espartero's career; we allude +to it with pain, for in every other point we believe him to have been a +noble and generous character; but his treatment of Cordova cannot be +commended on any principle of honour or rectitude. Cordova was his +friend and benefactor, to whom he was mainly indebted for his advancement +in the army. Espartero was a brave soldier, with some talent for +military matters. But when did either bravery or talent serve as +credentials for advancement in the Spanish service? He would have +remained at the present day a major or a colonel but for the friendship +of Cordova, who, amongst other things, was a courtier, and who was raised +to the command of the armies of Spain by a court intrigue--which command +he resigned into the hands of Espartero when the revolution of the Granja +and the downfall of his friends, the Moderados, compelled him to take +refuge in France. The friendship of Cordova and Espartero had been so +well known that for a long time it was considered that the latter was +merely holding the command till his friend might deem it safe and prudent +to return and resume it. Espartero, however, had conceived widely +different views. After the return of Cordova to Spain he caused him to +be exiled under some pretence or other. He doubtless feared him, and +perhaps with reason; but the man had been his friend and benefactor, and +to the relations which had once existed between them Cordova himself +alludes in a manifesto which he printed at Badajoz when on his way to +Portugal, and which contains passages of considerable pathos. Is there +not something like retribution in the fact that Espartero is now himself +in exile? + +Cordova! His name is at present all but forgotten, yet it was at one +time in the power of that man to have made himself master of the +destinies of Spain. He was at the head of the army--was the favourite of +Christina--and was, moreover, in the closest connexion with the Moderado +party--the most unscrupulous, crafty, and formidable of all the factions +which in these latter times have appeared in the bloody circus of Spain. +But if ever there was a man, a real man of flesh and blood, who in every +tittle answered to one of the best of the many well-drawn characters in +Le Sage's wonderful novel--one of the masters of Gil Blas, a certain Don +Mathias, who got up at midday, and rasped tobacco whilst lolling on the +sofa, till the time arrived for dressing and strolling forth to the +prado--a thorough Spanish coxcomb highly perfumed, who wrote love-letters +to himself bearing the names of noble ladies--brave withal and ever ready +to vindicate his honour at the sword's point, provided he was not called +out too early of a morning--it was this self-same Don Cordova, who we +repeat had the destinies of Spain at one time in his power, and who, had +he managed his cards well, and death had not intervened, might at the +present moment have occupied the self-same position which Narvaez fills +with so much credit to himself. The man had lots of courage, was well +versed in the art military; and once, to his honour be it said, whilst +commanding a division of the Christine army, defeated Zumalacarregui in +his own defiles; but, like Don Mathias, he was fond of champagne suppers +with actresses, and would always postpone a battle for a ball or a +horse-race. About five years ago we were lying off Lisbon in a steamer +in our way from Spain. The morning was fine, and we were upon deck +staring vacantly about us, as is our custom, with our hands in our +pockets, when a large barge with an awning, and manned by many rowers, +came dashing through the water and touched the vessel's side. Some +people came on board, of whom, however, we took but little notice, +continuing with our hands in our pockets staring sometimes at the river, +and sometimes at the castle of Saint George, the most remarkable object +connected with the 'white city,' which strikes the eye from the Tagus. +In a minute or two the steward came running up to us from the cabin, and +said, 'There are two or three strange people below who seem to want +something; but what it is we can't make out, for we don't understand +them. Now I heard you talking 'Moors' the other day to the black cook, +so pray have the kindness to come and say two or three words in Moors to +the people below.' Whereupon, without any hesitation, we followed the +steward into the cabin. 'Here's one who can jabber Moors with you,' +bawled he, bustling up to the new comers. On observing the strangers, +however, who sat on one of the sofas, instead of addressing them in +'Moors,' we took our hands out of our pockets, drew ourselves up, and +making a most ceremonious bow, exclaimed in pure and sonorous Castilian, +'Cavaliers, at your feet! What may it please you to command?' + +The strangers, who had looked somewhat blank at the first appearance of +our figure, no sooner heard us address them in this manner than they +uttered a simultaneous 'Ola!' and, springing up, advanced towards us with +countenances irradiated with smiles. They were three in number, to say +nothing of a tall loutish fellow with something of the look of a +domestic, who stood at some distance. All three were evidently +gentlemen--one was a lad about twenty, the other might be some ten years +older--but the one who stood between the two, and who immediately +confronted us, was evidently the principal. He might be about forty, and +was tall and rather thin; his hair was of the darkest brown; his face +strongly marked and exceedingly expressive; his nose was fine, so was his +forehead, and his eyes sparkled like diamonds beneath a pair of bushy +brows slightly grizzled. He had one disagreeable feature--his +mouth--which was wide and sensual-looking to a high degree. He was +dressed with elegance--his brown surtout was faultless; shirt of the +finest Holland, frill to correspond, and fine ruby pin. In a very +delicate and white hand he held a delicate white handkerchief perfumed +with the best atar-de-nuar of Abderrahman. 'What can we oblige you in, +cavalier?' said we, as we looked him in the face: and then he took our +hand, our brown hand, into his delicate white one, and whispered +something into our ear--whereupon, turning round to the steward, we +whispered something into his ear. 'I know nothing about it,' said the +steward in a surly tone--we have nothing of the kind on board--no such +article or packet is come; and I tell you what, I don't half like these +fellows; I believe them to be custom-house spies: it was the custom-house +barge they came in, so tell them in Moors to get about their business.' +'The man is a barbarian, sir,' said we to the cavalier; 'but what you +expected is certainly not come.' A deep shade of melancholy came over +the countenance of the cavalier: he looked us wistfully in the face, and +sighed; then, turning to his companions, he said, 'We are disappointed, +but there is no remedy--Vamos, amigos.' Then, making us a low bow, he +left the cabin, followed by his friends. The boat was ready, and the +cavalier was about to descend the side of the vessel--we had also come on +deck--suddenly our eyes met. 'Pardon a stranger, cavalier, if he takes +the liberty of asking your illustrious name.' 'General Cordova,' said +the cavalier in an under voice. We made our lowest bow, pressed our hand +to our heart--he did the same, and in another minute was on his way to +the shore. 'Do you know who that was?' said we to the steward--'that was +the great General Cordova.' 'Cordova, Cordova,' said the steward. +'Well, I really believe I have something for that name. A general do you +say? What a fool I have been--I suppose you couldn't call him back?' +The next moment we were at the ship's side shouting. The boat had by +this time nearly reached the Caesodrea, though, had it reached +Cintra--but stay, Cintra is six leagues from Lisbon--and, moreover, no +boat unless carried can reach Cintra. Twice did we lift up our voice. +At the second shout the boat rested on its oars; and when we added +'Caballeros, vengan ustedes atras,' its head was turned round in a jiffy, +and back it came bounding over the waters with twice its former rapidity. +We are again in the cabin; the three Spaniards, the domestic, ourselves, +and the steward; the latter stands with his back against the door, for +the purpose of keeping out intruders. There is a small chest on the +table, on which all eyes are fixed; and now, at a sign from Cordova, the +domestic advances, in his hand a chisel, which he inserts beneath the lid +of the chest, exerting all the strength of his wrist--the lid flies open, +and discloses some hundreds of genuine Havannah cigars. 'What +obligations am I not under to you!' said Cordova, again taking us by the +hand, 'the very sight of them gives me new life; long have I been +expecting them. A trusty friend at Gibraltar promised to send them, but +they have tarried many weeks: but now to dispose of this treasure.' In a +moment he and his friends were busily employed in filling their pockets. +Yes Cordova, the renowned general, and the two secretaries of a certain +legation at Lisbon--for such were his two friends--are stowing away the +Havannah cigars with all the eagerness of contrabandistas. 'Rascal,' +said Cordova, suddenly turning to his domestic with a furious air and +regular Spanish grimace, 'you are doing nothing; why don't you take +more?' 'I can't hold any more, your worship,' replied the latter in a +piteous tone. 'My pockets are already full; and see how full I am here,' +he continued, pointing to his bosom. 'Peace, bribon,' said his master; +'if your bosom is full, fill your hat, and put it on your head. We owe +you more than we can express,' said he, turning round and addressing us +in the blandest tones. 'But why all this mystery?' we demanded. 'O, +tobacco is a royal monopoly here, you know, so we are obliged to be +cautious.' 'But you came in the custom-house barge?' 'Yes, the +superintendent of the customs lent it to us in order that we might be put +to as little inconvenience as possible. Between ourselves, he knows all +about it; he is only solicitous to avoid any scandal. Really these +Portuguese have some slight tincture of gentility in them, though they +are neither Castilian nor English,' he continued, making us another low +bow. On taking his departure the general gave the steward an ounce of +gold, and having embraced us and kissed us on the cheek, said, 'In a few +weeks I shall be in England, pray come and see me there.' This we +promised faithfully to do, but never had the opportunity; he went on +shore with his cigars, gave a champagne supper to his friends, and the +next morning was a corpse. What a puff of smoke is the breath of man! + +But here before us is a Hand-book for Spain. From what we have written +above it will have been seen that we are not altogether unacquainted with +the country; indeed we plead guilty to having performed the grand tour of +Spain more than once; but why do we say guilty--it is scarcely a thing to +be ashamed of; the country is a magnificent one, and the people are a +highly curious people, and we are by no means sorry that we have made the +acquaintance of either. Detestation of the public policy of Spain, and a +hearty abhorrence of its state creed, we consider by no means +incompatible with a warm admiration for the natural beauties of the +country, and even a zest for Spanish life and manners. We love a ride in +Spain, and the company to be found in a Spanish venta; but the Lord +preserve us from the politics of Spain, and from having anything to do +with the Spaniards in any graver matters than interchanging cigars and +compliments, meetings upon the road (peaceable ones of course), kissing +and embracing (see above). Whosoever wishes to enjoy Spain or the +Spaniards, let him go as a private individual, the humbler in appearance +the better: let him call every beggar Cavalier, every Don a Senor Conde; +praise the water of the place in which he happens to be as the best of +all water; and wherever he goes he will meet with attention and sympathy. +'The strange Cavalier is evidently the child of honourable fathers, +although, poor man, he appears to be, like myself, unfortunate'--will be +the ejaculation of many a proud _tatterdemalion_ who has been refused +charity with formal politeness--whereas should the stranger chuck him +contemptuously an ounce of gold, he may be pretty sure that he has bought +his undying hatred both in this world and the next. + +Here we have a Hand-book for Spain--we mean for travellers in Spain--and +of course for English travellers. The various hand-books which our +friend Mr. Murray has published at different times are very well known, +and their merit generally recognized. We cannot say that we have made +use of any of them ourselves, yet in the course of our peregrinations we +have frequently heard travellers speak in terms of high encomium of their +general truth and exactness, and of the immense mass of information which +they contain. There is one class of people, however, who are by no means +disposed to look upon these publications with a favourable eye--we mean +certain gentry generally known by the name of _valets de place_, for whom +we confess we entertain no particular affection, believing them upon the +whole to be about the most worthless, heartless, and greedy set of +miscreants to be found upon the whole wide continent of Europe. These +gentry, we have reason to know, look with a by no means favourable eye +upon these far-famed publications of Albemarle-street. 'They steal away +our honest bread,' said one of them to us the other day at Venice, '_I +Signori forestieri_ find no farther necessity for us since they have +appeared; we are thinking of petitioning the government in order that +they may be prohibited as heretical and republican. Were it not for +these accursed books I should now have the advantage of waiting upon +those _forestieri_'--and he pointed to a fat English squire, who with a +blooming daughter under each arm, was proceeding across the piazza to St. +Marco with no other guide than a 'Murray,' which he held in his hand. +High, however, as was the opinion which we had formed of these Hand-books +from what we had heard concerning them, we were utterly unprepared for +such a treat as has been afforded us by the perusal of the one which now +lies before us--the Hand-book for Spain. + +It is evidently the production of a highly-gifted and accomplished man of +infinite cleverness, considerable learning, and who is moreover +thoroughly acquainted with the subject of which he treats. That he knows +Spain as completely as he knows the lines upon the palm of his hand, is a +fact which cannot fail of forcing itself upon the conviction of any +person who shall merely glance over the pages; yet this is a book not to +be glanced over, for we defy any one to take it up without being seized +with an irresistible inclination to peruse it from the beginning to the +end--so flowing and captivating is the style, and so singular and various +are the objects and events here treated of. We have here a perfect +panorama of Spain, to accomplish which we believe to have been the aim +and intention of the author; and gigantic as the conception was, it is +but doing him justice to say that in our opinion he has fully worked it +out. But what iron application was required for the task--what years of +enormous labour must have been spent in carrying it into effect even +after the necessary materials had been collected--and then the collecting +of the materials themselves--what strange ideas of difficulty and danger +arise in our minds at the sole mention of that most important point! But +here is the work before us; the splendid result of the toil, travel, +genius, and learning of one man, and that man an Englishman. The above +is no overstrained panegyric; we refer our readers to the work itself, +and then fearlessly abandon the matter to their decision. We have here +all Spain before us; mountain, plain, and river, _poblado y +desploblado_--the well known and the mysterious--Barcelona and Batuecas. + +Amidst all the delight and wonder which we have felt, we confess that we +have been troubled by an impertinent thought of which we could not divest +ourselves. We could not help thinking that the author, generous enough +as he has been to the public, has been rather unjust to himself--by +publishing the result of his labours under the present title. A +Hand-book is a Hand-book after all, a very useful thing, but still--The +fact is that we live in an age of humbug, in which every thing to obtain +much note and reputation must depend less upon its own intrinsic merits +than on the name it bears. The present work is about one of the best +books ever written upon Spain; but we are afraid that it will never be +estimated at its proper value; for after all a Hand-book is a Hand-book. +Permit us, your Ladyship, to introduce to you the learned, talented, and +imaginative author of the--shocking! Her Ladyship would faint, and would +never again admit ourselves and our friends to her _soirees_. What a +pity that this delightful book does not bear a more romantic sounding +title--'Wanderings in Spain,' for example; or yet better, 'The Wonders of +the Peninsula.' + +But are we not ourselves doing our author injustice? Aye surely; the man +who could write a book of the character of the one which we have at +present under notice, is above all such paltry considerations, so we may +keep our pity for ourselves. If it please him to cast his book upon the +waters in the present shape, what have we to do but to be grateful?--we +forgot for a moment with what description of man we have to do. This is +no vain empty coxcomb; he cannot but be aware that he has accomplished a +great task; but such paltry considerations as those to which we have +alluded above are not for him but for writers of a widely different stamp +with whom we have nothing to do. + + + +WHAT TO OBSERVE IN SPAIN. + + +Before we proceed to point out the objects best worth seeing in the +Peninsula, many of which are to be seen there only, it may be as well to +mention what is _not_ to be seen: there is no such loss of time as +finding this out oneself, after weary chace and wasted hour. Those who +expect to find well-garnished arsenals, libraries, restaurants, +charitable or literary institutions, canals, railroads, tunnels, +suspension-bridges, steam-engines, omnibuses, manufactories, polytechnic +galleries, pale-ale breweries, and similar appliances and appurtenances +of a high state of political, social, and commercial civilisation, had +better stay at home. In Spain there are no turnpike-trust meetings, no +quarter-sessions, no courts of _justice_, according to the real meaning +of that word, no treadmills, no boards of guardians, no chairmen, +directors, masters-extraordinary of the court of chancery, no assistant +poor-law commissioners. There are no anti-tobacco-teetotal-temperance +meetings, no auxiliary missionary propagating societies, nothing in the +blanket and lying-in asylum line, nothing, in short, worth a revising +barrister of three years' standing's notice. Spain is no country for the +political economist, beyond affording an example of the decline of the +wealth of nations, and offering a wide topic on errors to be avoided, as +well as for experimental theories, plans of reform and amelioration. In +Spain, Nature reigns; she has there lavished her utmost prodigality of +soil and climate which a bad government has for the last three centuries +been endeavouring to counteract. _El cielo y suelo es bueno_, _el +entresuelo malo_, and man, the occupier of the Peninsula _entresol_, +uses, or rather abuses, with incurious apathy the goods with which the +gods have provided him. Spain is a _terra incognita_ to naturalists, +geologists, and every branch of ists and ologists. The material is as +superabundant as native labourers and operatives are deficient. All +these interesting branches of inquiry, healthful and agreeable, as being +out-of-door pursuits, and bringing the amateur in close contact with +nature, offer to embryo authors, who are ambitious to _book something +new_, a more worthy subject than the _decies repetita_ descriptions of +bull-fights and the natural history of ollas and ventas. Those who +aspire to the romantic, the poetical, the sentimental, the artistical, +the antiquarian, the classical, in short, to any of the sublime and +beautiful lines, will find both in the past and present state of Spain +subjects enough, in wandering with lead-pencil and note-book through this +singular country, which hovers between Europe and Africa, between +civilisation and barbarism; this is the land of the green valley and +barren mountain, of the boundless plain and the broken sierra, now of +Elysian gardens of the vine, the olive, the orange, and the aloe, then of +trackless, vast, silent, uncultivated wastes, the heritage of the wild +bee. Here we fly from the dull uniformity, the polished monotony of +Europe, to the racy freshness of an original, unchanged country, where +antiquity treads on the heels of to-day, where Paganism disputes the very +altar with Christianity, where indulgence and luxury contend with +privation and poverty, where a want of all that is generous or merciful +is blended with the most devoted heroic virtues, where the most +cold-blooded cruelty is linked with the fiery passions of Africa, where +ignorance and erudition stand in violent and striking contrast. + +Here let the antiquarian pore over the stirring memorials of many +thousand years, the vestiges of Phoenician enterprise, of Roman +magnificence, of Moorish elegance, in that storehouse of ancient customs, +that repository of all elsewhere long forgotten and passed by; here let +him gaze upon those classical monuments, unequalled almost in Greece or +Italy, and on those fairy Aladdin palaces, the creatures of Oriental +gorgeousness and imagination, with which Spain alone can enchant the dull +European; here let the man of feeling dwell on the poetry of her +envy-disarming decay, fallen from her high estate, the dignity of a +dethroned monarch, borne with unrepining self-respect, the last +consolation of the innately noble, which no adversity can take away; here +let the lover of art feed his eyes with the mighty masterpieces of +Italian art, when Raphael and Titian strove to decorate the palaces of +Charles, the great emperor of the age of Leo X., or with the living +nature of Velazquez and Murillo, whose paintings are truly to be seen in +Spain alone; here let the artist sketch the lowly mosque of the Moor, the +lofty cathedral of the Christian, in which God is worshipped in a manner +as nearly befitting His glory as the power and wealth of finite man can +reach; art and nature here offer subjects, from the feudal castle, the +vasty Escorial, the rock-built alcazar of imperial Toledo, the sunny +towers of stately Seville, to the eternal snows and lovely vega of +Granada: let the geologist clamber over mountains of marble, and +metal-pregnant sierras, let the botanist cull from the wild hothouse of +nature plants unknown, unnumbered, matchless in colour, and breathing the +aroma of the sweet south; let all, learned or unlearned, listen to the +song, the guitar, the Castanet; let all mingle with the gay, +good-humoured, temperate peasantry, the finest in the world, free, manly, +and independent, yet courteous and respectful; let all live with the +noble, dignified, high-bred, self-respecting Spaniard; let all share in +their easy, courteous society; let all admire their dark-eyed women, so +frank and natural, to whom the voice of all ages and nations has conceded +the palm of attraction, to whom Venus has bequeathed her magic girdle of +grace and fascination; let all--_sed ohe_! _jam satis_--enough for +starting on this expedition, where, as Don Quixote said, there are +opportunities for what are called adventures elbow deep. + +The following account of the rivers of Spain would do credit to the pen +of Robertson:-- + + 'There are six great rivers in Spain,--the arteries which run between + the seven mountain chains, the vertebras of the geological skeleton. + These six watersheds are each intersected in their extent by others + on a minor scale, by valleys and indentations, in each of which runs + its own stream. Thus the rains and melted snows are all collected in + an infinity of ramifications, and carried by these tributary conduits + into one of the six main trunks, or great rivers: all these, with the + exception of the Ebro, empty themselves into the Atlantic. The Duero + and Tagus, unfortunately for Spain, disembogue in Portugal, thus + becoming a portion of a foreign dominion exactly where their + commercial importance is the greatest. Philip II. saw the true value + of the possession of Portugal, which rounded and consolidated Spain, + and insured to her the possession of these valuable outlets of + internal produce, and inlets for external commerce. Portugal annexed + to Spain gave more real power to his throne than the dominion of + entire continents across the Atlantic. The _Mino_, which is the + shortest of these rivers, runs through a bosom of fertility. The + _Tajo_, Tagus, which the fancy of poets has sanded with gold and + embanked with roses, tracks much of its dreary way through rocks and + comparative barrenness. The _Guadiana_ creeps through lonely + Estremadura, infecting the low plains with miasma. The + _Guadalquivir_ eats out its deep banks amid the sunny olive-clad + regions of Andalucia, as the Ebro divides the levels of Arragon. + Spain abounds with brackish streams, _Salados_, and with salt-mines, + or saline deposits, after the evaporation of the sea-waters. The + central soil is strongly impregnated with saltpetre: always arid, it + every day is becoming more so, from the singular antipathy which the + inhabitants of the interior have against trees. There is nothing to + check the power of evaporation, no shelter to protect or preserve + moisture. The soil becomes more and more baked and calcined; in some + parts it has almost ceased to be available for cultivation: another + serious evil, which arises from want of plantations, is, that the + slopes of hills are everywhere liable to constant denudation of soil + after heavy rain. There is nothing to break the descent of the + water; hence the naked, barren stone summits of many of the sierras, + which have been pared and peeled of every particle capable of + nourishing vegetation; they are skeletons where life is extinct. Not + only is the soil thus lost, but the detritus washed down either forms + bars at the mouths of rivers, or chokes up and raises their beds; + they are thus rendered liable to overflow their banks, and convert + the adjoining plains into pestilential swamps. The supply of water, + which is afforded by periodical rains, and which ought to support the + reservoirs of rivers, is carried off at once in violent floods, + rather than in a gentle gradual disembocation. The volume in the + principal rivers of Spain has diminished, and is diminishing. Rivers + which were navigable are so no longer; the artificial canals which + were to have been substituted remain unfinished: the progress of + deterioration advances, while little is done to counteract or amend + what every year must render more difficult and expensive, while the + means of repair and correction will diminish in equal proportion, + from the poverty occasioned by the evil, and by the fearful extent + which it will be allowed to attain. The rivers which are really + adapted to navigation are, however, only those which are perpetually + fed by those tributary streams that flow down from mountains which + are covered with snow all the year, and these are not many. The + majority of Spanish rivers are very scanty of water during the summer + time, and very rapid in their flow when filled by rains or melting + snow: during these periods they are impracticable for boats. They + are, moreover, much exhausted by being drained off, bled, for the + purposes of artificial irrigation. The scarcity of rain in the + central table-lands is much against a regular supply of water to the + springs of the rivers: the water is soon sucked up by a parched, + dusty, and thirsty soil, or evaporated by the dryness of the + atmosphere. Many of the _sierras_ are indeed covered with snow, but + to no great depth, and the coating soon melts under the summer suns, + and passes rapidly away.' + +Here we have a sunny little sketch of a certain locality at Seville; it +is too life-like not to have been taken on the spot:-- + + 'The sunny flats under the old Moorish walls, which extend between + the gates of _Carmona_ and _La Carne_, are the haunts of idlers and + of gamesters. The lower classes of Spaniards are constantly gambling + at cards: groups are to be seen playing all day long for wine, love, + or coppers, in the sun, or under their vine-trellises. There is + generally some well-known cock of the walk, a bully, or _guapo_, who + will come up and lay his hands on the cards, and say, 'No one shall + play here but with mine'--_aqui no se juega sino con mis barajas_. + If the gamblers are cowed, they give him _dos cuartos_, a halfpenny + each. If, however, one of the challenged be a spirited fellow, he + defies him. _Aqui no se cobra el barato sino con un punal de + Albacete_--'You get no change here except out of an Albacete knife.' + If the defiance be accepted, _vamos alla_ is the answer--'Let's go to + it.' There's an end then of the cards, all flock to the more + interesting _ecarte_; instances have occurred, where Greek meets + Greek, of their tying the two advanced feet together, and yet + remaining fencing with knife and cloak for a quarter of an hour + before the blow be dealt. The knife is held firmly, the thumb is + pressed straight on the blade, and calculated either for the cut or + thrust, to chip bread and kill men.' + +Apropos of Seville. It is sometimes called we believe La Capital de +Majeza; the proper translation of which we conceive to be the Head +Quarters of Foolery, for nothing more absurd and contemptible than this +Majeza ever came within the sphere of our contemplation. Nevertheless it +constitutes the chief glory of the Sevillians. Every Sevillian, male or +female, rich or poor, handsome or ugly, aspires at a certain period of +life to the character of the majo or maja. We are not going to waste +either space or time by entering into any lengthened detail of this +ridiculous nonsense: indeed, it is quite unnecessary; almost every one of +the books published on Spain, and their name at present is legion, being +crammed with details of this same Majeza--a happy combination of +insolence, ignorance, frippery, and folly. The majo or Tomfool struts +about the streets dressed something like a merry Andrew with jerkin and +tight hose, a faja or girdle of crimson silk round his waist, in which is +sometimes stuck a dagger, his neck exposed, and a queer kind of +half-peaked hat on his head. He smokes continually, thinks there is no +place like Seville, and that he is the prettiest fellow in Seville. His +favourite word is 'Carajo!' The maja or she-simpleton, wears a fan and +mantilla, exhibits a swimming and affected gait, thinks that there's no +place like Seville, that she is the flower of Seville--Carai! is her +favourite exclamation. But enough of these poor ridiculous creatures. +Yet, ridiculous in every respect as they are, these majos and majas find +imitators and admirers in people who might be expected to look down with +contempt upon them and their follies; we have seen, and we tell it with +shame, we have seen Englishmen dressed in Tomfool's livery lounging about +Seville breathing out smoke and affecting the airs of hijos de Sevilla; +and what was yet worse, fair blooming Englishwomen, forgetful of their +rank as daughters of England, appearing a la maja on the banks of the +Guadalquivir, with fan and mantilla, carai and caramba. We wish +sincerely that our countrymen and women whilst travelling abroad would +always bear in mind that they can only be respected or respectable so +long as they maintain their proper character--that of Englishmen and +Englishwomen;--but in attempting to appear French, Italians, and +Spaniards, they only make themselves supremely ridiculous. As the tree +falls, so must it lie. They are children of England; they cannot alter +that fact, therefore let them make the most of it, and after all it is no +bad thing to be a child of England. But what a poor feeble mind must be +his who would deny his country under any circumstances! Therefore, +gentle English travellers, when you go to Seville, amongst other places, +appear there as English, though not obtrusively, and do not disgrace your +country by imitating the airs and graces of creatures whom the other +Spaniards, namely, Castilians, Manchegans, Aragonese, &c., pronounce to +be fools. + + + +THE NORMANS IN SPAIN. + + + 'In the ninth century, the Normans or Northmen made piratical + excursions on the W. coast of Spain. They passed, in 843, from + Lisbon up to the straits and everywhere, as in France, overcame the + unprepared natives, plundering, burning, and destroying. They + captured even Seville itself, September 30, 844, but were met by the + Cordovese Kalif, beaten, and expelled. They were called by the Moors + _Majus_, _Madjous_, _Magioges_ (Conde, i. 282), and by the early + Spanish annalists _Almajuzes_. The root has been erroneously derived + from [Greek text], Magus, magicians or supernatural beings, as they + were almost held to be. The term _Madjous_ was, strictly speaking, + applied by the Moors to those Berbers and Africans who were Pagans or + Muwallads, _i.e._ not believers in the Khoran. The true etymology is + that of the Gog and Magog so frequently mentioned by Ezekiel + (xxxviii. and xxxix.) and in the Revelations (xx. 8) as ravagers of + the earth and nations, May-Gogg, "he that dissolveth,"--the fierce + Normans appeared, coming no one knew from whence, just when the minds + of men were trembling at the approach of the millennium, and thus + were held to be the forerunners of the destroyers of the world. This + name of indefinite gigantic power survived in the _Mogigangas_, or + terrific images, which the Spaniards used to parade in their + religious festivals, like the Gogs and Magogs of our civic wise men + of the East. Thus Andalucia being the half-way point between the N. + and S.E., became the meeting-place of the two great ravaging swarms + which have desolated Europe: here the stalwart children of frozen + Norway, the worshippers of Odin, clashed against the Saracens from + torrid Arabia, the followers of Mahomet. Nor can a greater proof be + adduced of the power and relative superiority of the Cordovese Moors + over the other nations of Europe, than this, their successful + resistance to those fierce invaders, who overran without difficulty + the coasts of England, France, Apulia, and Sicily: conquerors + everywhere else, here they were driven back in disgrace. Hence the + bitter hatred of the Normans against the Spanish Moors, hence their + alliances with the Catalans, where a Norman impression yet remains in + architecture; but, as in Sicily, these barbarians, unrecruited from + the North, soon died away, or were assimilated as usual with the more + polished people, whom they had subdued by mere superiority of brute + force.' + +If the Moors called the Norsemen Al Madjus, which according to our author +signifies Gog and Magog, the Norsemen retorted by a far more definite and +expressive nickname; this was Blue-skins or Bluemen, doubtless in +allusion to the livid countenances of the Moors. The battles between the +Moors and the Northmen are frequently mentioned in the Sagas, none of +which, however, are of higher antiquity than the eleventh century. In +none of these chronicles do we find any account of this raid upon Seville +in 844; it was probably a very inconsiderable affair magnified by the +Moors and their historians. Snorre speaks of the terrible attack of +Sigurd, surnamed the Jorsal wanderer, or Jerusalem pilgrim, upon Lisbon +and Cintra, both of which places he took, destroying the Moors by +hundreds. He subsequently 'harried' the southern coasts of Spain on his +voyage to Constantinople. But this occurred some two hundred years after +the affair of Seville mentioned in the Handbook. It does not appear that +the Norse ever made any serious attempt to establish their power in +Spain; had they done so we have no doubt that they would have succeeded. +We entertain all due respect for the courage and chivalry of the Moors, +especially those of Cordova, but we would have backed the Norse, +especially the pagan Norse, against the best of them. The Biarkemal +would soon have drowned the Moorish 'Lelhies.' + + 'Thou Har, who grip'st thy foeman + Right hard, and Rolf the bowman, + And many, many others, + The forky lightning's brothers, + Wake--not for banquet table, + Wake--not with maids to gabble, + But wake for rougher sporting, + For Hildur's bloody courting.' + +Under the head of La Mancha our author has much to say on the subject of +Don Quixote; and to the greater part of what he says we yield our +respectful assent. His observations upon the two principal characters in +that remarkable work display much sound as well as original criticism. +We cannot however agree with him in preferring the second part, which we +think a considerable falling off from the first. We should scarcely +believe the two parts were written by the same hand. We have read +through both various times, but we have always sighed on coming to the +conclusion of the first. It was formerly our custom to read the Don +'pervasively' once every three years; we still keep up that custom _in +part_, and hope to do so whilst life remains. We say _in part_, because +we now conclude with the first part going no farther. We have little +sympathy with the pranks played off upon Sancho and his master by the +Duke and Duchess, to the description of which so much space is devoted; +and as for the affair of Sancho's government at Barataria, it appears to +us full of inconsistency and absurdity. Barataria, we are told, was a +place upon the Duke's estate, consisting of two or three thousand +inhabitants; and of such a place it was very possible for a nobleman to +have made the poor squire governor; but we no sooner get to Barataria +than we find ourselves not in a townlet, but in a _capital_ in Madrid. +The governor at night makes his rounds, attended by 'an immense watch;' +he wanders from one street to another for hours; he encounters all kinds +of adventures, not mock but real adventures, and all kinds of characters, +not mock but real characters; there is talk of bull-circuses, theatres, +gambling-houses, and such like; and all this in a place of two or three +thousand inhabitants, in which, by the way, nothing but a cat is ever +heard stirring after eight o'clock; this we consider to be carrying the +joke rather too far; and it is not Sancho but the reader who is joked +with. But the first part is a widely different affair: all the scenes +are admirable. Should we live a thousand years, we should never forget +the impression made upon us by the adventure of the corpse, where the Don +falls upon the priests who are escorting the bier by torch light, and by +the sequel thereto, his midnight adventures in the Brown Mountain. We +can only speak of these scenes as astonishing--they have never been +equalled in their line. There is another wonderful book which describes +what we may call the city life of Spain, as the other describes the vida +del campo--we allude of course to Le Sage's novel, which as a whole we +prefer to Don Quixote, the characters introduced being certainly more +true to nature than those which appear in the other great work. Shame to +Spain that she has not long since erected a statue to Le Sage, who has +done so much to illustrate her; but miserable envy and jealousy have been +at the bottom of the feeling ever manifested in Spain towards that +illustrious name. There are some few stains in the grand work of Le +Sage. He has imitated without acknowledgment three or four passages +contained in the life of Obregon, a curious work, of which we have +already spoken, and to which on some future occasion we may perhaps +revert. + +But the Hand-book? We take leave of it with the highest respect and +admiration for the author; and recommend it not only to travellers in +Spain, but to the public in general, as a work of a very high order, +written _con amore_ by a man who has devoted his whole time, talents, and +all the various treasures of an extensive learning to its execution. We +repeat that we were totally unprepared for such a literary treat as he +has here placed before us. It is our sincere wish that at his full +convenience he will favour us with something which may claim +consanguinity with the present work. It hardly becomes us to point out +to an author subjects on which to exercise his powers. We shall, +however, take the liberty of hinting that a good history of Spain does +not exist, at least in English--and that not even Shelton produced a +satisfactory translation of the great gem of Spanish literature, 'The +Life and Adventures of Don Quixote.' + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W. + _Edition limited to Thirty Copies_ + + + + +Footnote: + + +{13} Relaciones de la vida del Escudero Marcos de Obregon. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER TO THE BIBLE +IN SPAIN*** + + +******* This file should be named 29469.txt or 29469.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/9/4/6/29469 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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