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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:53:10 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:53:10 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/30130-0.txt b/30130-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a36fcb1 --- /dev/null +++ b/30130-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8904 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30130 *** + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + +1) Passages in italics are surrounded by _underscores_. + +2) A few chapter sub-headings do not end with a period. For consistency, + obvious errors have been corrected by ending these with a period. + +3) A few obvious misprints where sentences did not end with a period have + been corrected. + +4) The words "manoeuvres" and "manoeuvre" use oe ligature in the original. + +5) The following misprints have been corrected: + "which we pet in our" corrected to "which we put in our" (page 243) + "Britian" corrected to "Britain" (page 271) + +6) Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in + spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and ligature usage have been retained. + + + + + DUE SOUTH + OR + CUBA PAST AND PRESENT + + + BY + MATURIN M. BALLOU + AUTHOR OF "DUE WEST; OR ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS" + + + BOSTON AND NEW YORK + HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY + The Riverside Press, Cambridge + + + Copyright, 1885, + By MATURIN M. BALLOU. + + _All rights reserved._ + + + ELEVENTH IMPRESSION + + + _The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A._ + Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these +pages, entitled "Due West; or Round the World in Ten Months," has +suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, +which consists of notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn +in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been to present a +comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict +the political and moral darkness which have so long enshrouded it. +A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful +flora and vegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty +enjoyment to the author that he desires to share the pleasure with +the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical +position of the island, its present critical condition, and the +proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it +at present of unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, +Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, and both are so Moorish +as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics. + + M. M. B. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + PAGE + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. 24 + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. 46 + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. 70 + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. 88 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. 102 + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. 125 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafés. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. 144 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Army. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortége. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. 166 + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor-General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. 184 + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. 200 + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. -- The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. 219 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from San + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. 236 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of San Domingo. -- General Emancipation. 260 + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. 282 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. 300 + + + + + DUE SOUTH. + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. + + +We left Boston in a blustering snow-storm on the morning of February +25th, and reached New York city to find it also clothed in a wintry +garb, Broadway being lined on either side of its entire length with +tall piles of snow, like haycocks, prepared for carting away during +the coming night. Next morning, when we drove to the dock to take +passage on board the steamship Cienfuegos, the snow-mounds had all +been removed. The mail steamer sailed promptly at the hour assigned, +hauled out into the stream by a couple of noisy little tugs, with +two-inch hawsers made fast to stem and stern. Before sunset the pilot +left the ship, which was then headed due south for Nassau, N. P., +escorted by large fields of floating ice, here and there decked with +lazy snow-white sea-gulls. The sharp northwest wind, though +blustering and aggressive, was in our favor, and the ship spread all +her artificial wings as auxiliary to her natural motor. We doubled +Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout well in towards the shore, sighting on +the afternoon of the fourth day the Island of Abaco, largest of the +Bahama Isles, with its famous "Hole in the Wall" and sponge-lined +shore. The woolen clothing worn when we came on board ship had already +become oppressive, the cabin thermometer indicating 72° Fahrenheit. +With nothing to engage the eye save the blue sky and the bluer water, +the most is made of every circumstance at sea, and even trivial +occurrences become notable. The playful dolphins went through their +aquatic pantomime for our amusement. Half a dozen of them started off +just ahead of the cutwater, and raced the ship for two hours, keeping +exactly the same relative distance ahead without any apparent effort. +Scores of others leaped out of the water and plunged in again in +graceful curves, as though they enjoyed the sport. A tiny land bird +flew on board, and was chased all over the ship by one or two +juveniles until caught, panting and trembling with the unwonted +exertion. Presently it was given its liberty, partook freely of bread +crumbs and drank of fresh water, then assumed a perch aloft, where it +carefully dressed its feathers, and after thanking its entertainers +with a few cheerful notes it extended its wings and launched out into +space, no land being in sight. The broken mainmast of a ship, +floating, with considerable top hamper attached, was passed within a +cable's length, suggestive of a recent wreck, and inducing a thousand +dreary surmises. At first it was announced as the sea serpent, but its +true nature was soon obvious. At midnight, March 1st, Nassau light +hove in sight, dimmed by a thin, soft haze, which hung over the water, +and through which the light, by some law of refraction, seemed to be +coming out to meet the ship. Overhead all was bright,--almost dazzling +with unnumbered stars and familiar constellations, like silver +spangles on a background of blue velvet. We anchored off the island an +hour before daylight, the harbor being too shallow to admit the ship. +A forbidding sand bar blocks the entrance, inside of which the water +is but fifteen feet deep. Indeed, Nassau would have no harbor at all +were it not that nature has kindly placed Hog Island in the form of a +break-water, just off the town. The vibrating hull of the Cienfuegos +was once more at rest; the stout heart-throbs, the panting and +trembling, of the great engine had ceased; the wheelhouse and decks +were deserted, and one was fain to turn in below for a brief nap +before landing on this the most populous of the Bahamas. + +The island, which was settled by Europeans as early as 1629, embraces +nearly a hundred square miles, forming an oasis in the desert of +waters. It is sixteen miles long and about one half as wide, +containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, more or less, who can hardly +be designated as an enterprising community. On first landing, +everything strikes the visitor as being peculiarly foreign,--almost +unique. The town is situated on the northerly front of the island, +extending along the shore for a couple of miles, and back to a crest +of land which rises to nearly the height of a hundred feet. This +elevation is crowned by the residence of the English Governor-General, +in front of which may be seen a colossal but not admirable statue of +Columbus. The town boasts a small public library, a museum, theatre, +several small churches, a prison, a hospital, and a bank. The +government maintains one company of infantry, composed of black men, +officered by whites. It must be admitted that they present a fine +military appearance when on parade. Nassau has long been a popular +resort for invalids who seek a soft, equable climate, and as it lies +between the warm South Atlantic and the Gulf Stream it is +characterized by the usual temperature of the tropics. There seemed to +be a certain enervating influence in the atmosphere, under the effects +of which the habitués of the place were plainly struck with a spirit +of indolence. The difference between those just arrived and the +regular guests of the Victoria Hotel, in this respect, could not fail +to be observed. The languidly oppressive warmth imparts a certain +softness to manners, a voluptuous love of idleness, and a glow to the +affections which are experienced with less force at the North. Neither +snow nor frost is ever encountered here, and yet it is as near to +Boston or New York as is the city of Chicago. The temperature, we are +told, never falls below 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, the +variations rarely exceeding five degrees in twenty-four hours. In +Florida a change of twenty degrees is not unusual within the period of +a single day. The thermometer stood at 73° on the first day of March, +and everything was bathed in soft sunlight. + +It is somewhat singular that an island like New Providence, which is +practically without soil, should be so remarkably productive in its +vegetation. It is surrounded by low-lying coral reefs, and is itself +composed of coral and limestone. These, pulverized, actually form the +earth out of which spring noble palm, banana, ceiba, orange, lemon, +tamarind, almond, mahogany, and cocoanut trees, with a hundred and one +other varieties of fruits, flowers, and woods, including the +bread-fruit tree, that natural food for indolent natives of equatorial +regions. Of course in such a soil the plough is unknown, its +substitutes being the pickaxe and crowbar. However, science teaches us +that all soils are but broken and decomposed rock, pulverized by +various agencies acting through long periods of time. So the molten +lava which once poured from the fiery mouth of Vesuvius has become the +soil of thriving vineyards, which produce the priceless Lachryma +Christi wine. This transformation is not accomplished in a lifetime, +but is the result of ages of slow disintegration. + +Among other flowering trees, some strikingly beautiful specimens of +the alligator-pear in full bloom were observed, the blossom suggesting +the passion-flower. While our favorite garden plants at the North are +satisfied to bloom upon lowly bushes, at the South they are far more +ambitious, and develop into tall trees, though sometimes at the +partial expense of their fragrance. The air was full of sweet perfume +from the white blossoms of the shaddock, contrasting with the deep +glossy green of its thick-set leaves, the spicy pimento and cinnamon +trees being also noticeable. With all this charming floral effect the +bird melody which greets the ear in Florida was wanting, though it +would seem to be so natural an adjunct to the surroundings. Nature's +never-failing rule of compensation is manifested here: all the +attractions are not bestowed upon any one class; brilliancy of +feathers and sweetness of song do not go together. The torrid zone +endows the native birds with brilliant plumage, while the colder North +gives its feathered tribes the winning charm of melody. + +The soil of these Bahama Islands, composed of such unpromising +ingredients, shows in its prolific yield how much vegetation depends +for its sustenance upon atmospheric air, especially in tropical +climes. The landlord of the Victoria Hotel told us, as an evidence of +the fertility of the soil, that radish seeds which were planted on the +first day of the month would sufficiently mature and ripen by the +twenty-first--that is in three weeks--for use upon the table; and also +that potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons were relatively +expeditious in ripening here after planting. Our mind reverted to the +jugglers of Madras and Bombay, who made an orange-tree grow from the +seed, and bear fruit before our very eyes, at a single sitting. + +The luscious pineapple, zapota, mango, pomegranate, guava, star-apple, +citron, custard-apple, mammee, and other fruits abound. The +profuseness and variety of beautiful ferns and orchidaceous plants +will also be sure to attract the attention of the Northern visitor. +The rocky formation of the soil produces good natural roads, so that a +long drive in the environs of Nassau is like a pleasure excursion over +a well-macadamized thoroughfare. We were told of a delightful drive of +fifteen miles in length which follows the sea beach the whole +distance, but did not find time to test its attractions, though +strongly tempted by the excellence of the roads. Here, as in other +tropical regions, each month has its special floral display, although +there are many, and indeed a majority, of the plants which continue to +flower all the year round. We observed that the stone walls and +hedges were now and again covered for short spaces with the +coral-vine, whose red blossoms, so pleasing to the eye, emit no odor. +The yellow jasmine was dazzlingly conspicuous everywhere, and very +fragrant. Red and white roses, various species of cacti, and +tube-roses bloomed before the rude thatched cabins of the negroes in +the environs, as well as in the tiny front gardens of the whites in +the streets of the town; while red, white, and pink oleanders grew as +tall as trees, and flower here every month in the year. The +night-blooming cereus abounds, opening just at sunset, and closing +again at break of day. The outside leaves of this poetical flower are +of a pale green, the inner ones of a pure wax-like white, and the +petals light yellow. Complete, it is about eight inches long, and from +twelve to fifteen in circumference. + +While we drove through the suburbs, slatternly, half-clothed family +groups of negroes watched us with curious eyes, and on the road aged +colored men and women were occasionally met, who saluted us with grave +dignity. No one seemed to be at work; sunshine was the only +perceptible thing going on, ripening the fruits and vegetables by its +genial rays, while the negroes waited for the harvest. Like the birds, +they had no occasion to sow, but only to pluck and to eat. There was, +both in and out of the town, a tumble-down, mouldy aspect to the +dwellings, which seemed to be singularly neglected and permitted to +lapse into decay. With the exception of the town of Nassau, and its +immediate environs, New Providence is nearly all water and wilderness; +it has some circumscribed lakes, but no mountains, rivers, or +rivulets. The island is justly famous for the beauty and variety of +its lovely flowers. It is true that the rose is not quite equal in +color, development, and fragrance to ours of the North; Nature has so +many indigenous flowers on which to expend her liberality that she +bestows less attention upon this, the loveliest of them all. The +Cherokee rose, single-leafed, now so rare with us, seems here to have +found a congenial foreign home. In the suburbs of Nassau are many +attractive flowers, fostered only by the hand of Nature. Among them +was the triangular cactus, with its beautiful yellow blossom, like a +small sunflower, supported by a deep green triangular stem. + +The pendulous cactus was also hanging here and there on walls and tree +trunks, in queer little jointed, pipe-stem branches. The royal palm, +that king of tropical vegetation, is not very abundant here, but yet +sufficiently so to characterize the place. Its roots resemble those of +asparagus, and are innumerable. Another peculiarity of the palm is +that it starts a full-sized trunk; therefore, not the diameter, but +the height, determines its age, which is recorded by annual concentric +rings clearly defined upon its tall, straight stem. + +During the late civil war in the United States, when blockade runners +made this place a port of call and a harbor for refitting, it was by +English connivance practically a Confederate port. The officers and +sailors expended their ill-gotten wealth with the usual lavishness of +the irresponsible, the people of Nassau reaping thereby a fabulous +harvest in cash. This was quite demoralizing to honest industry, and, +as might be expected, a serious reaction has followed. Legitimate +trade and industry will require years before they can reassert +themselves. Sudden and seeming prosperity is almost sure to be equally +transitory. We were told that, during the entire period in which the +Confederates resorted here under the open encouragement and protection +of England, the town was the scene of the most shameful drunken orgies +from morning until night. Lewdness and crime were rampant. Officers +played pitch-penny on the veranda of the Victoria Hotel with gold +eagles, and affiliated openly with negresses. The evil influence upon +all concerned was inevitable, and its poisonous effect is not yet +obliterated. + +Three quarters of the present population are negroes, but of course +all trace of the aborigines has disappeared. It is curious and +interesting to know what Columbus thought of them. He wrote to his +royal mistress, after having explored these Bahamas, as follows: "This +country excels all others as far as the day surpasses the night in +splendor; the natives love their neighbors as themselves: their +conversation is the sweetest imaginable, and their faces are always +smiling. So gentle and so affectionate are they that I swear to your +highness there is no better people in the world." + +The negroes are mostly engaged in cultivating patches of pineapples, +and yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables; a large number of the +males employ themselves also in fishing and gathering sponges. It will +be remembered that from this locality comes the principal supply of +coarse sponge for Europe and America. There is also a considerable +trade, carried on in a small way, in fine turtle-shell, which is +polished in an exquisite manner, and manufactured by the natives into +ornaments. Though the Bahama sponges are not equal to those obtained +in the Mediterranean, still they are marketable, and Nassau exports +half a million dollars' worth annually. It is a curious fact that +sponges can be propagated by cuttings taken from living specimens, +which, when attached to a piece of board and sunk in the sea, will +increase and multiply. Thus the finest Mediterranean specimens may be +successfully transplanted to the coral reefs of these islands, the +only requisite to their sustenance seeming to be a coralline shore and +limestone surroundings. Another important industry which gives +employment to a considerable number of the inhabitants is the canning +of pineapples, a process which is equivalent to preserving them for +any length of time. One firm on Bay Street, as we were informed, +canned and exported nearly a million of pines in one season, lately; +and another, engaged in the fresh-fruit trade, shipped to the States +fifteen cargoes of pines in one year, besides many thousands of +cocoanuts. These are not all raised in Nassau, but this port is made +the headquarters for collecting and disposing of the fruit grown upon +what are termed the out-islands, as well as marketing the large +product of its own soil. It is but a short drive inland to the +extensive pineapple fields, where the handsome fruit may be seen in +the several stages of growth, varying according to the season of the +year. If intended for exportation, the fruit is gathered green; if for +canning purposes, the riper it is the better. The visitor will also be +impressed by the beauty and grace of the cocoanut trees, their pinnate +leaves often a hundred feet from the ground, notwithstanding the bare +cylindrical stem attains a thickness of only two feet. + +The Royal Victoria Hotel, though bearing a loyal name, is kept by an +American, and is a very substantial, capacious building, composed of +native limestone, four stories high, three of which are surrounded by +wide piazzas, which afford the shade so necessary in a land of +perpetual summer. The native stone of which the island is composed is +so soft when first quarried that it can easily be cut or sawed into +any shape desired, but it hardens very rapidly after exposure to the +atmosphere. The hotel will accommodate three hundred guests, and is a +positive necessity for the comfort and prosperity of the place. It was +built and is owned by the British government, who erected it some +twenty-five years since. At the time of our arrival there was gathered +under the lofty Moorish portico of the hotel a most picturesque group +of negroes, of both sexes and of all ages, their ebony faces forming a +strong contrast to the background of well-whitewashed walls. Some of +the women were dressed in neat calico gowns, and wore broad-brimmed +straw hats; some were in rags, hatless, shoeless, and barelegged; some +had high-colored kerchiefs wound turban-like about their woolly heads; +and some wore scarlet shawls, the sight of which would have driven a +Spanish bull raving mad. There were coquettish mulatto girls with +bouquets for sale, and fancy flowers wrought of shells; these last of +most exquisite workmanship. Specimens of this native shell-work were +sent to the Vienna Exposition, where they received honorable mention, +and were afterwards purchased and presented to the Prince of Wales. +Old gray-haired negroes, with snow-white beards on a black ground, +offered fruits in great variety,--zapotas, mangoes, pineapples, and +grape-fruit. Others had long strings of sponges for sale, wound +round their shoulders like huge snakes; some of these were good, but +many were utterly useless. No one knows this better than the cunning +negroes themselves, but strangers, only touching at Nassau, they do +not expect to see again, and there is proverbially cheating in all +trades but ours. A bright, thrifty-looking colored woman had spread +out her striped shawl upon the ground, and on this arrayed a really +fine collection of conch-shells for sale, delicately polished, and of +choice shapes. When first brought to the surface by the divers they +are not infrequently found to contain pearls imbedded in the palatable +and nutritious meat. These pearls are generally of a pinkish hue, and +greatly prized by the jewelers. Now and then a diver will realize a +hundred dollars for one of them. From the conch-shell also come the +best shell cameos. A smart half-breed offered canes of ebony, lignum +vitæ, lance, and orange wood, all of native growth. He was dressed in +a white linen jacket, pantaloons to match, with a semi-military cap, +cocked on one side of his head,--quite a colored dude. The women who +sell native-made baskets are most persistent, but if you purchase of +them make your own change, for they are apt to take money away for +this purpose and to forget to return. Negro nature is frail, +characterized at Nassau by theft and licentiousness, but great crimes +are rare. If you have occasion to hire a boat for a sail in the +harbor, be sure to find and employ "Bushy," a tall, intelligent +darkey, the best boatman and stroke-oar in Nassau. + +Bushy showed us what he called a fish-whip, made from the whipray, a +fish quite new to us, but indigenous to these waters. With a body +shaped like a flounder, it has a tail often ten feet long, tapering +from about one inch in thickness at the butt to an eighth of an inch +at the small end. When dried this resembles whalebone, and makes a +good coach-whip. There is a great variety of fish in and about the +Bahamas. We saw, just landed at Nassau, a jew-fish, which takes the +same place here that the halibut fills at the North, being cut into +steaks and fried in a similar manner. They are among the largest of +edible fish, and this specimen weighed about four hundred pounds. +According to Bushy, at certain seasons of the year the jew-fish lies +dormant upon the sandy bottom, and refuses to take the bait. In these +transparent waters he is easily seen when in this condition, and the +native fishermen then dive down and place a stout hook in his mouth! +Though this may sound like a "fish story," we were assured by others +of its truth. Bushy undertook to give us the names of the various +fishes which abound here, but the long list of them and his peculiar +pronunciation drove us nearly wild. Still a few are remembered; such +as the yellow-tailed snapper, striped snapper, pork-fish, angel-fish, +cat-fish, hound-fish, the grouper, sucking-fish, and so on. Both +harbor and deep sea fishing afford the visitor to Nassau excellent +amusement, and many sportsmen go thither annually from New York solely +for its enjoyment. + +The colored people of Nassau, as we were assured by one competent to +speak upon the subject, form a religious community, according to the +ordinary acceptation of the term. They are very fond of church-going, +and of singing and shouting on all religious occasions. Nervously +emotional, they work themselves up to a hysterical condition so +furious as to threaten their sanity, but having naturally so little of +that qualification, they are pretty safe. No people could possibly be +more superstitious. They shut up and double lock the doors and windows +of their cabins at night to keep out evil spirits. There are regular +professional man-witches among them, persons a little shrewder and +more cunning than their fellows. The very ignorant believe in a sort +of fetichism, so that when a boat starts on a sponge-fishing trip, the +obeah man is called upon for some coöperation and mysticism, to insure +a successful return of the crew. The sponge fishermen have several +hundred boats regularly licensed, and measuring on an average twenty +tons each. On favorable occasions these men lay aside their legitimate +calling, and become for the time being wreckers, an occupation which +verges only too closely upon piracy. The intricate navigation of these +waters, dotted by hundreds of small reefs and islands, and which can +be traversed by only three safe channels, has furnished in former +years a large amount of shipwrecked merchandise to Nassau. The +wrecking business at best is extremely demoralizing, unfitting any +community of men for legitimate industry, as we know very well by the +experience gained on our own Florida shore. Men who have cruised +fruitlessly for months in search of a profitable wreck will sometimes +be tempted to decoy a ship from her proper course, and lead her upon +the rocks, by a display of false lights. + +In front of the Victoria Hotel are some noble specimens of the ceiba, +or silk-cotton tree, as it is called here, the finest and loftiest we +have seen in any country. These trees, naturally slow growers, must +be over a century in age, and afford, by their widespread branches, a +shade equally graceful and grateful. Like the india-rubber trees of +Asia, these ceibas have at least one half of their anaconda-like roots +exposed upon the surface of the ground, dividing the lower portion of +the stem into supporting buttresses, a curious piece of finesse on the +part of nature to overcome the disadvantage of insufficient soil. The +tree bears annually a large seed-pod, packed with cotton of a soft, +silky texture, and hence its name. It is, however, suitable neither +for timber nor fuel, and the small product of cotton is seldom if ever +gathered. The islanders are proud of a single specimen of the banyan +tree of considerable size, which they show to all visitors; but it +cannot be indigenous--it must have been brought in its youth from +Asia. There is, however, in these West Indian isles, the black +mangrove, with very similar habit to the banyan. The limbs spread to +such an extent from the trunk as to require support to prevent them +from breaking off or bending to the ground by their own weight; but to +obviate this, nature has endowed the tree with a peculiar growth. When +the branches have become so heavy as to be no longer able to support +themselves, they send forth from the under side sprigs which, rapidly +descending to the ground, take root like the banyan, and become +supporting columns to the heavy branches above. So the writer has seen +in Hindostan a vine which grew, almost leafless, closely +entwined around the trees to the very top, whence it descended, took +fresh root, and ascended the nearest adjoining tree, until it had gone +on binding an entire grove in a ligneous rope. Long tendrils of the +love-vine, that curious aerial creeper, which feeds on air alone, +were seen hanging across some of the low branches of the Nassau trees, +and we were told that the plant will grow equally well if hung upon a +nail indoors. Emblematic of true affection, it clings, like Japanese +ivy, tenaciously to the object it fixes upon. One specimen was shown +to us which had developed to the size of the human hand from a single +leaf carelessly pinned by a guest to one of the chamber walls of the +hotel. + +There are said to be six hundred of the Bahama islands, large and +small, of which Nassau is the capital, and there, as already +intimated, the English Governor-General resides. This numerical +calculation is undoubtedly correct; many are mere rocky islets, and +not more than twenty have fixed inhabitants. Is there anything more +wonderful in nature than that these hundreds of isles should have been +built up from the bottom of the sea by insects so small as to be +microscopic? All lie north of Cuba and St. Domingo, just opposite the +Gulf of Mexico, easily accessible from our own shores by a short and +pleasant sea-voyage of three or four days. They are especially +inviting to those persons who have occasion to avoid the rigor of +Northern winters. People threatened with consumption seek Nassau on +sanitary principles, and yet it was found upon inquiry that many +natives die of that insidious disease, which rapidly runs its career +when it is first developed in a tropical climate. To the author it +would seem that consumptives might find resorts better adapted to the +recovery of their health. Intermittent fever, also, is not unknown at +Nassau. + +The sea gardens, as they are called, situated just off the shores of +the island, are well worth a visit; where, by means of a simple +instrument of wood and glass, one is enabled to look many fathoms +below the surface of the water, which is here so remarkable for its +transparency. These water glasses are all of home manufacture, easily +improvised, being formed of a small wooden box three or four inches +square, open at the top, and having a water-tight glass bottom. With +the glass portion slightly submerged, one is enabled to see distinctly +the beautiful coral reefs, with their marvelous surroundings. There +are displayed tiny caves and grottoes of white coral of great delicacy +and variety, star-fishes, sea-urchins, growing sponges, sea-fans, and +gaudy-colored tropical fishes, including the humming-bird-fish, and +others like butterflies with mottled fins and scales, and that little +oddity the rainbow-fish. The prevailing color of this attractive +creature is dark green, but the tinted margins of its scales so +reflect the light as to show all the colors of the rainbow, and hence +its name. When bottled in alcohol, these fairy-like denizens of the +deep lose their brilliancy, which they exhibit only in their native +element. This unique display is greatly enhanced in beauty by the +clearness of the Bahama waters, and the reflected light from the +snow-white sandy bottom, dotted here and there by curious and delicate +shells of opalescent lustre. One longs to descend among these coral +bowers,--these mermaid-gardens,--and pluck of the submarine flora in +its purple, yellow, and scarlet freshness. + +It will be remembered that Columbus wrote home to his royal patrons +that the fish which abounded in the seas partook of the same novelty +which characterized everything else in the New World. This was about +four hundred years ago, before the great Genoese had discovered Cuba. +"The fish," as he wrote, "rivaled the birds in tropical brilliancy of +color, the scales of some of them glancing back the rays of light like +precious stones, as they sported about the ships and flashed gleams of +gold and silver through the clear water." + +The surface life of these translucent waters is also extremely +interesting. Here the floating jelly-fish, called, from its +phosphorescence, the glow-worm of the sea, is observed in great +variety, sheltering little colonies of young fishes within its +tentacles, which rush forth for a moment to capture some passing mite, +and as quickly return again to their shelter. One takes up a handful +of the floating gulf-weed and finds, within the pale yellow leaves and +berries, tiny pipe-fish, sea-horses, and the little nest-building +antennarius, thus forming a buoyant home for parasites, crabs, and +mollusks, itself a sort of mistletoe of the ocean. The young of the +mackerel and the herring glance all about just beneath the surface +near the shore, like myriad pieces of silver. Now and again that +particolored formation of marine life, the Portuguese man-of-war, is +observed, its long ventral fins spread out like human fingers to +steady it upon the surface of the water. Verily, the German scientist +who says there is more of animal life beneath the surface of the sea +than above it cannot be far amiss. This seems to be the more +reasonable when we consider the relative proportions of land and +water. The whole surface of the globe is supposed to have an area of +about two hundred million square miles. Of these only about fifty +millions are dry land. Within the harbor of Nassau the divisions of +shoal and deep water presented most singular and clearly defined +lines of color, azure, purple, and orange-leaf green,--so marked as to +be visible half a mile away. All was beneath a sky so deeply and +serenely blue as constantly to recall the arching heavens of middle +India. + +The Bahama Banks is a familiar expression to most of us, but perhaps +few clearly understand the significance of the term, which is applied +to a remarkable plateau at the western extremity of the archipelago, +occupying a space between two and three hundred miles long, and about +one third as wide. These banks, as they are called, rise almost +perpendicularly from an unfathomable depth of water, and are of coral +formation. In sailing over them the bottom is distinctly seen from the +ship's deck, the depth of water being almost uniformly forty to fifty +feet. Some years since, when the author was crossing these banks in a +sailing ship, a death occurred among the foremast hands, and the usual +sea burial followed. The corpse was sewn up in a hammock, with iron +weights at the feet, the more readily to sink it. After reading the +burial service the body was launched into the sea from a grating +rigged out of a gangway amidship. The waters were perfectly calm, and +the barque had but little headway. Indeed, we lay almost as still as +though anchored, so that the body was seen to descend slowly alongside +until it reached the calcareous, sandy bottom, where it assumed an +upright and strangely lifelike position, as though standing upon its +feet. An ominous silence reigned among the watching crew, and it was a +decided relief to all hands when a northerly wind sprang up, filling +the canvas and giving the vessel steerage way. + +So many years have passed since the occurrence of the scene just +related that we may give its sequel without impropriety, though, at +the same time, we expose the venal character of Spanish officials. The +man we buried on the Bahama Banks had died of small-pox, though no +other person on board showed any symptoms of the disease. On entering +the harbor of Havana, three days later, we had been hailed from Moro +Castle and had returned the usual answer. A couple of doubloons in +gold made the boarding officer conveniently blind, and a similar fee +thrust quietly into the doctor's hand insured a "clean bill of +health," under which we were permitted to land! The alternative was +twenty-one days' quarantine. + +Fort Montague, mounting four rusty guns, "with ne'er a touch-hole to +any on 'em," as Bushy informed us, stands upon a projecting point +about a mile from the town of Nassau, the road thither forming a +delightful evening promenade, or drive. The fort is old, crumbling, +and time-worn, but was once occupied by the buccaneers as a most +important stronghold commanding the narrow channel. These sea-robbers +imposed a heavy tax upon all shipping passing this way, and for many +years realized a large income from this source. It was only piracy in +another form. Most vessels found it cheaper to pay than to fight. When +the notorious Black Beard had his headquarters at Nassau, he sought no +such pretext, but preyed upon all commerce alike, provided the vessels +were not too well armed to be captured. This notorious pirate had an +innate love for cruelty, and often tortured his captives without any +apparent purpose, after the fashion of our Western Indians. When the +English lashed the mutineers of Delhi and Cawnpore to the muzzles of +their cannon and blew them to pieces, they were enacting no new +tragedy; legend and history tell us that Black Beard, the pirate of +the Windward Passage, set them that example many years before. His +rule was to murder all prisoners who would not join his ship, and +those whom he took fighting, that is, with arms in their hands, were +subjected to torture, one form of which was that of lashing captives +to the cannon's mouth and applying the match. Fort Montague is not +occupied by even a corporal's guard to-day, and is of no efficiency +whatever against modern gunnery. The reader will thus observe that the +principal business which has engaged Nassau heretofore has been +wrecking, buccaneering, privateering, and blockade running. + +Some noted characters have found an asylum here, first and last. After +Lord Dunmore left Virginia he sought official position and made a home +on the island. He was appointed governor, and some of the buildings +erected by him are still pointed out to the visitor, especially that +known as the Old Fort, just back of the Victoria Hotel, crowning the +height. His summer seat, known as the Hermitage, is a quaint old +place, still in fair condition, and surrounded by oaks and cocoanut +trees, near the sea. Such matters do not often get into history, but +legend tells us that some strange orgies took place at the Hermitage, +where the play was for heavy stakes, and the drinking was of a similar +excessive character. + +Another well-known individual who sought to make a home here, and also +to escape from all former associations, was the notorious +Blennerhasset, a name familiar in connection with Aaron Burr. After +his trial, it will be remembered that he suddenly disappeared, and +was heard of no more. He left his country for his country's good, +changing his name to that of Carr. His objective point was Nassau; +there his undoubted talent and legal ability were duly recognized and +he was appointed government attorney, officiating in that capacity for +a number of years. Having deserted his first wife, he found another to +console him upon the island. At last wife number one appeared upon the +island. She had discovered his hiding-place, and a domestic war +ensued. Wife number two carried the day and the rightful spouse was +sent away and paid an annuity to keep away. The pretended Mr. Carr is +said to have finally lapsed into habits of excessive intemperance, and +to have found a stranger's grave on the island. + +Much of the drinking water, and certainly the best in use at Nassau, +as well as on some of the neighboring islands, is procured in a +remarkable, though very simple manner, from the sea. Not far from +shore, on the coral reefs, there are never-failing fresh water +springs, bubbling up from the bottom through the salt water with such +force as clearly to indicate their locality. Over these ocean springs +the people place sunken barrels filled with sand, one above another, +the bottoms and tops being displaced. The fresh water is thus +conducted to the surface through the column of sand, which forms a +perfect filterer. Such a crude arrangement is only temporary, liable +to be displaced by any severe storm which should agitate the +surrounding waters. If destroyed in the hurricane season, these +structures are not renewed until settled weather. In so small and low +lying an island as that of Nassau, it is very plain that this crystal +liquid, pure and tasteless, cannot come from any rainfall upon the +soil, and its existence, therefore, suggests a problem, the solving of +which we submit to the scientists. + +On the arid shores of the Persian Gulf, where rain so seldom falls, +and where there are no rills to refresh the parched soil, fresh water +is also obtained from submerged springs beneath the salt water. Here +it is brought to the surface by divers, who descend with a leather +bag, the mouth of which being opened over the bubbling spring is +quickly filled and closed again, being drawn to the surface by those +who are left there to assist the diver, who hastens upward for air. In +descending his feet are weighted with stones, which being cast off at +the proper moment, he naturally rises at once to the surface. This +operation is repeated until a sufficient quantity of fresh water is +procured. There is no mystery, however, as to the source of these +springs. The rain first falls on the distant mountains, and finding +its way downward through the fissures of rocky ledges, pursues its +course until it gushes forth in the bed of the gulf. + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. + + +After leaving Nassau we stood northward for half a day in order to get +a safe and proper channel out of the crooked Bahamas, where there is +more of shoal than of navigable waters, leaving a score of small +islands behind us inhabited only by turtles, flamingoes, and sea +birds. But we were soon steaming due south again towards our objective +point, the island of Cuba, five hundred miles away. San Salvador was +sighted on our starboard bow, the spot where Columbus first landed in +the New World, though even this fact has not escaped the specious +arguments of the iconoclasts. Nevertheless, we gazed upon it with +reverent credulity. It will be found laid down on most English maps as +Cat Island, and is now the home of two or three thousand colored +people. San Salvador is nearly as large as New Providence, and is said +to claim some special advantages over that island in the quality of +its fruits. It is claimed that the oranges grown here are the sweetest +and best in the world, the same excellence being attributed to its +abundant yield of pineapples and other tropical fruits. + +There are so many of these small islands in the Bahama group that the +geographers may be excused for the heterogeneous manner in which they +have placed them on the common maps. To find their true and relative +position one must consult the sailing-charts, where absolute +correctness is supposed to be found, a prime necessity in such +intricate navigation. The total population of the Bahamas has been +ascertained, by census, to be a fraction less than forty thousand. + +The voyager in these latitudes is constantly saluted by gentle breezes +impregnated with tropical fragrance, intensified in effect by the +distant view of cocoanut, palmetto, and banana trees, clothing the +islands and growing down to the water's very edge. As we glide along, +gazing shoreward, now and again little groups of swallows seem to be +flitting only a few feet above the water for a considerable distance, +and then suddenly disappearing beneath the waves. These are +flying-fish enjoying an air bath, either in frolic or in fear; +pursued, may be, by some aqueous enemy, to escape from whom they essay +these aerial flights. The numerous islands, very many of which are +uninhabited, have yet their recorded names, more or less +characteristic, such as Rum Key, Turk's Island,--famous for the export +of salt,--Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Great and Little Inagua, Crooked +Island, and so on, all more or less noted for the disastrous wrecks +which have occurred on their low coralline shores. Our Northern cities +are largely dependent upon the Bahamas for their early annual supplies +of pineapples, cocoanuts, oranges, bananas, and some vegetables, in +which they are all more or less prolific. Here also is the harvest +field of the conchologist, the beaches and coral reefs affording an +abundant supply of exquisitely colored shells, of all imaginable +shapes, including the large and valuable conch-shell, of which many +thousand dollars' worth are annually exported, the contents first +serving the divers for food. + +It was interesting to remain on deck at night and watch the heavens, +as we glided silently through the phosphorescent sea. Was it possible +the grand luminary, which rendered objects so plain that one could +almost read fine print with no other help, shone solely by borrowed +light? We all know it to be so, and also that Venus, Mars, Jupiter, +and Saturn shine in a similar manner with light reflected from the +sun. It was curious to adjust the telescope and bring the starry +system nearer to the vision. If we direct our gaze upon a planet we +find its disk sharply defined; change the direction and let it rest +upon a star, and we have only a point of light, more or less +brilliant. The glass reveals to us the fact that the star-dust which +we call the Milky Way is an aggregation of innumerable single suns. +Sweeping the arching blue with the telescope, we find some stars are +golden, some green, others purple, many silvery-white, and some are +twins. Probably there is no such thing as stars of the first and +second magnitude, as the common expression names them. It is most +likely only a question of distance, which regulates the brightness to +our vision. Science reduces the distances of heavenly bodies from our +earth to figures, but they are so immense as to be simply bewildering. +At the North the moon is silvery, but in tropical skies at night it +becomes golden, glowing, and luxurious in its splendor, never pale and +wan as it seems with us. + +When the lonely lighthouse which marks Cape Maysi, at the easterly +point of Cuba, hove in sight on the starboard bow, the dim form of the +mountains of Hayti was also visible on the opposite horizon. A +subterranean connection is believed to exist between the mountain +ranges of the two islands. + +When the outline of the Haytian mountains was in view, it was very +natural to express a wish to visit the island at some convenient time. +This led to some intelligent and interesting remarks from a compagnon +de voyage, who had resided for two years at Port-au-Prince, the +capital. "Unless you are compelled to land there," said he, "I advise +you to avoid Hayti." He fully confirmed the reports of its barbarous +condition, and declared it to be in a rapid decadence, as regarded +every desirable element of civilization. In the country, a short +distance from either Gonaives, Jacmel, or Port-au-Prince, where the +mass of the negro population live, Voudou worship and cannibalism are +quite common at the present time. The influence of the Voudou priests +is so much feared by the government that the horrible practice is +little interfered with. When the officials are forced to take +cognizance of the crime, the lightest possible punishment is imposed +upon the convicted parties. The island of San Domingo is about half +the size of Cuba, Hayti occupying one third of the western portion, +the rest of the territory belonging to the republic of San Domingo. +"As to Port-au-Prince," said our informant, "it is the dirtiest place +I have ever seen in any part of the world." Nevertheless, the historic +interest clustering about the island is very great. It was the seat of +the first Spanish colony founded in the New World. Its soil has been +bathed in the blood of Europeans as well as of its aboriginal +inhabitants. For three hundred years it was the arena of fierce +struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English, passing +alternately under the dominion of each of these powers, until finally, +torn by insurrection and civil war, in 1804 it achieved its +independence. The city of San Domingo, capital of the republic, is the +oldest existing settlement by white men in the New World, having been +founded in 1494 by Bartholomew Columbus. It contains to-day a little +less than seven thousand inhabitants. + +We gave Cape Maysi a wide berth, as a dangerous reef makes out from +the land, eastward, for a mile or more. The fixed light at this point +is a hundred and thirty feet above sea level, and is visible nearly +twenty miles off shore. + +We were running through the Windward Passage, as it was called by the +early navigators, and whence one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its +way northward. The Gulf Stream! Who can explain the mystery of its +motive power; what keeps its tepid waters in a course of thousands of +miles from mingling with the rest of the sea; whence does it come? The +accepted theories are familiar enough, but we do not believe them. +Maury says the Gulf of Mexico is its fountain, and its mouth is the +Arctic Sea. The maps make the eastern shore of Cuba terminate as +sharply as a needle's point, but it proved to be very blunt in +reality, as it forms the gateway to the Caribbean Sea, where the +irregular coast line runs due north and south for the distance of many +leagues. It is a low, rocky shore for the most part, but rises +gradually as it recedes inland, until it assumes the form of hills so +lofty as to merit the designation of mountains. + +There was on board of our ship an intelligent resident of Santiago, +who was enthusiastic in his description of the plains and valleys +lying beyond the hills which stood so prominently on the coast,--hills +probably older than any tongue in which we could describe them. The +Scriptural Garden of Eden has absolutely been placed here by +supposition on the part of traveled people. The temperature is simply +perfect, if we are to believe our informant; the vegetation is of a +primitive delicacy and beauty unequaled elsewhere; the fruits are +fabulously abundant and of the most perfect flavor; the water bubbles +forth from springs of crystal purity, and the flora is so lovely as to +inspire the most indifferent beholder with delight. "It is called the +Garden of Cuba," said the American Consul of Cienfuegos, "but many go +further, and declare it to be the location of the original Paradise." +Certain it is that the few Americans who have sought this so highly +praised region, though compelled to deny themselves the ordinary +comforts to be found in more accessible resorts, have admitted with +emphasis that nature, pure and undefiled, was here to be enjoyed in +unstinted measure. + +The hills bordering the shore and extending some distance inland +contain much undeveloped mineral wealth, such as iron, silver, and +gold. A mine of the former product is now being profitably worked by +an American company, and the ore regularly shipped to Pennsylvania for +smelting. This ore has special properties which render it more than +usually valuable, and it is even claimed to be the best iron mine in +the world. There is a strangely solitary and inhospitable appearance +about this portion of the island, devoid as it is of all human +habitations, and fringed either with long reaches of lonely +snow-white beach or rugged brown rocks. The volcanic appearance of the +land is significant of former upheavals, and this immediate region is +still occasionally troubled with geological chills and fever. + +The nights of early March in this latitude were exceedingly beautiful, +and solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. The full +moon looked down upon and was reflected by waters of perfect +smoothness. River navigation could not have been more quiet than were +these nights on the blue Caribbean Sea. The air was as mild as June in +New England, while at night the Southern Cross and the North Star +blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we steered westward after +doubling the cape, both of these heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, +the constellation on our port side, and the North Star on the +starboard. Each day, at the noon hour, the passengers were interested +in watching the officers of the ship while they were "taking the sun," +to determine the latitude and longitude. Shall we put the process into +simple form for the information of the uninitiated? When the sun +reaches the meridian, or culminating point of ascension, the exact +moment is indicated by the instrument known as a quadrant, adjusted to +the eye of the observer. The figures marked on the quadrant give the +latitude of the ship at the moment of meridian. The ship's time is +then made to correspond, that is to say, it must indicate 12 o'clock, +M., after which it is compared with the chronometer's Greenwich time, +and the difference enables the observer to determine the longitude. As +fifteen miles are allowed to the minute, there will be nine hundred +miles to the hour. The importance of absolute correctness in the +chronometer will at once be realized, since, were it only three +minutes out of the way, it would render the calculation as to +longitude wrong by nearly fifty miles, which might be, and doubtless +often has been, the cause of wrecking a ship upon rocks laid down upon +the charts, but supposed to be far away. With the chronometer and the +quadrant observation correctly ascertained, the sailing-master can +prick off his exact situation on the chart. So long as the weather +will permit a clear view of the sun at noon, the ship's precise +location on the wide waste of waters can be known; but when continuous +cloudy weather prevails, the ship's course is calculated by what is +called dead reckoning, depending upon the speed and distance run as +indicated by the log, which is cast hourly under such circumstances, +and becomes the main factor in calculating the position of the ship. +Of course the result cannot be very accurate, but is a dernier +ressort. When land is in sight no observation is necessary, as the +bearing of the ship is then unmistakably defined. + +The sea was like molten sapphire as we glided swiftly along the +southern coast of Cuba, watching the gracefully undulating shore. The +mountains rose higher and higher, until they culminated in the lofty +peak of Pico Turquino (blue mountain), over ten thousand feet high, as +lately ascertained by actual measurement. There are coves and bays +along this coast where oysters _do_ grow upon trees, ridiculous as the +assertion first strikes the ear. The mangrove-trees extend their roots +from the shore into the sea, to which the oysters affix themselves, +growing and thriving until plucked by the fishermen. They are small +and of an inferior species compared with those of our own coast, but +are freely eaten in the island. Near the shore hereabouts are many +islets containing from three to five square miles, some of which are +quite barren, while others are delicious gardens, full of tropical +fruit trees, flowers, and odoriferous plants, where Paul and Virginia +might have felt quite at home, wandering hand in hand. + +Soon after passing the remarkably sheltered port of Guantanamo, which +was for nearly a century the most notorious piratical rendezvous in +the West Indies, the famous castle of Santiago is seen. It is known as +Moro Castle, but it antedates the more familiar Moro of Havana by a +full century. This antique, yellow, Moorish-looking stronghold--which +modern gunnery would destroy in about eight minutes--is picturesque to +the last degree, with its crumbling, honeycombed battlements, and +queer little flanking turrets, grated windows, and shadowy towers. It +is built upon the face of a lofty dun-colored rock, upon whose +precipitous side the fortification is terraced. It stands just at the +entrance of the narrow channel leading to the city, so that in passing +in one can easily exchange oral greetings with the sentry on the outer +battlement. What strikingly artistic pictures the light and shade +together formed with those time-stained walls, as we steamed slowly by +them! On the ocean side, directly under the castle, the sea has worn a +gaping cave, so deep that it has not been explored within the memory +of the people living in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty entrance +is in form as perfect an arch as could be drawn by the pencil of a +skillful architect. As is usual with such formations all over the +world, there is a romantic legend concerning the cave related as +connected with the olden time, and there is also a prevailing +superstition, that no one attempting to explore it will live to +return. + +In passing up the channel two or three little forts of queer +construction are seen, supplementing the larger one, placed upon +jutting headlands. The Moro of Santiago is now used as a prison for +political offenders; its days of defensive importance ended with the +period of the buccaneers, against whose crude means of warfare it was +an ample protection. As we steamed past it that sunny afternoon, +stimulated by the novelty of everything about us, a crowd of pallid, +sorrowful faces appeared at the grated windows, watching us +listlessly. Two days later five of them, who were condemned patriots, +were led out upon those ramparts and shot, their bodies falling into +the sea, and eight were sent to the penal settlement of Ceuta. Spain +extends no mercy to those who dare to raise their hands or voices in +favor of freedom; her political existence is sustained only in an +atmosphere of oppression and cruelty. Every page of her history is a +tableau of bloodshed and torture. The narrow winding channel which +leads from the open sea to the harbor passes through low hills and +broad meadows covered with rank verdure, cocoanut groves, and little +fishing hamlets. Thrifty laurels, palms with their graceful plumes of +foliage, and intensely green bananas line the way, with here and there +upon the banks a pleasant country house in the midst of a pretty +garden of flowering shrubs. So close is the shore all the while that +one seems to be navigating upon the land, gliding among trees and over +greensward rather than on blue water. Presently we pass a sharp angle +of the hills into a broad, sheltered bay, and before us lies the +quaint, rambling old city of Santiago de Cuba, built upon a hillside, +like Tangier in Africa, and nearly as Oriental as that capital of +Morocco. The first most conspicuous objects to meet the eye are the +twin towers of the ancient cathedral which have withstood so many +earthquakes. The weather-beaten old quartermaster on our forecastle +applies the match to his brass twelve-pounder, awaking a whole +broadside of echoes among the mountains, the big chain rushes swiftly +through the hawse-hole, and the ship swings at her anchor in the +middle of the picturesque bay. + +A boat was promptly secured with which to land at this ancient city, +founded by Velasquez. From the moment one touches the shore a sense of +being in a foreign land forces itself upon the new-comer. The +half-unintelligible language, the people, the architecture, the +manners, the vegetation, even the very atmosphere and the intensity of +the sunshine, are novel and attractive. It is easy to convey our +partial impressions of a new place, however unique it may be, but not +our inward sensations. The former are tangible, as it were, and may be +depicted; the latter are like atmospheric air, which cannot be seen, +but is felt. The many-colored, one-story houses of Santiago are +Moorish in architecture, ranged in narrow streets, which cross each +other at right angles with considerable regularity, but with roadways +in an almost impassable condition, lined with sidewalks of ten or +fifteen inches in width. These thoroughfares were once paved with +cobblestones, but are now characterized by dirt and neglect, a stream +of offensive water constantly percolating through them, in which +little naked children are at play. No wonder that the city is +annually decimated by yellow fever; the surprise is that it does not +prevail there every month in the year. The boys and girls of the lower +classes, white and black, are not thought to require clothing until +they are about nine years of age. A few negresses were observed +sitting on the ground, at the corners of the streets, beside their +baskets containing sweet cakes, mouldy biscuits, bananas, and +grape-fruit, the uninviting appearance of which seemed to indicate +that they were in the last stage of collapse. Was it possible any one +could eat such stuff? As we passed and repassed these patient waiters, +certainly no purchasers appeared. How the forty-five thousand +inhabitants manage to achieve a living it would be difficult to +imagine, for the town seemed to be as dead and void of all activity as +Cordova, in far-off Spain, the sleepiest city in all Europe. Santiago +has not a single bookstore within its limits. No other place in +Christendom, with so numerous a population, could exist, outside of +Spain, without some literary resort. There are here three or four +spacious two-story club-houses, with some pretension to neatness and +social accommodations; but then no Cuban town of any size would be +complete without these anti-domestic institutions, where the male +population may congregate for evening entertainment. The interior +arrangements of these club-houses were entirely exposed to view, as we +passed by the iron-grated windows, devoid of curtains, blinds, or +screens of any sort, and extending from ceiling to floor. + +Santiago dates back to the year of our Lord 1514, making it the oldest +city in the New World, next to San Domingo, and it will be remembered +as the place whence Cortez sailed, in 1519, to invade Mexico. Here +also has been the seat of modern rebellion against the arbitrary and +bitterly oppressive rule of the home government. The city is situated +six hundred miles southeast of Havana, and, after Matanzas, comes next +to it in commercial importance, its exports reaching the handsome +annual aggregate of eight millions of dollars. It is the terminus of +two lines of railways, which pass through the sugar districts, and +afford transportation for this great staple. Three leagues inland, +among the mountains, are situated the famous Cobre copper mines, said +to be of superior richness, and whence, in the days of their active +working, four million dollars' worth of the ore has been exported in +one year. This was the amount shipped in 1841, and so late as 1867 six +thousand tons were exported in ten months. Not content with realizing +a very large income from the mines by way of taxes upon the product, +the Spanish government increased these excise charges to such an +extent as to absorb the entire profits of the works and kill the +enterprise, so that the rich ores of Cobre now rest undisturbed in the +earth. It seems there is an Indian village near the copper mines, +whose people are represented to be the only living descendants of the +aborigines,--the Caribs whom Columbus found here on first landing. +Careful inquiry, however, led us seriously to doubt the authenticity +of the story. Probably this people are peculiar in their language, and +isolation may have caused them to differ in some respects from the +inhabitants of the valley and plains, but four centuries must have +destroyed every trace of the early inhabitants of Cuba. Having been +from the very outset enslaved and brutally treated by the Spaniards, +it is believed that as early as the year of our Lord 1700 they had +utterly disappeared, and some historians say no trace even was to be +found of the native race one century after the settlement of the +island by Europeans. + +The head of the Church of Rome in Cuba is located here, it being an +archbishop's see; and the elaborate ceremonials which occasionally +take place attract people from the most distant cities of the island. +We chanced to be present when the bishop was passing into the +cathedral, clothed in full canonicals and accompanied by church +dignitaries bearing a canopy above his head. Observing our little +party as strangers, though in the midst of a stately ceremony, the +bishop graciously made us a sign of recognition. The cathedral of +Santiago is the largest in Cuba, but extremely simple in its interior +arrangements; and so, indeed, are all the churches on the island. As +to the exterior, the façade resembles the cathedral of Havana, being +of the same porous stone, which always presents a crumbled and mottled +surface. The inside decorations are childish and fanciful, consisting +mostly of artificial flowers of colored paper, crudely formed by +inexperienced hands into stars, wreaths, and crosses. One innovation +was noticed in this church: a saint on the right of the altar was +mounted upon a wooden horse, with spear in rest à la militaire, +forming a most incongruous figure. In the church of Matanzas, visited +a week or two later, the effigy of our Saviour was observed to be half +dressed in female attire, a glaring absurdity which the author has +once before seen in the Spanish convent-church of Burgos. In the +Matanzas church alluded to, boys and girls of nine and ten years were +seen at the confessional. Could absurdity be carried to a greater +height? These with negro women form nearly all the audiences to be met +with in the Cuban churches, unless upon festal occasions. The men +manifest their indifference by their absence, and white women are +scarcely represented. Besides the cathedral, Santiago has three or +four other old churches, small and dilapidated, within whose sombre +walls one seems to have stepped back into the fifteenth century. Upon +strolling accidentally into one of these we felt a chill suffuse the +whole system, like that realized on descending into a dark, undrained +cellar. + +The multiplicity and gaudiness of the drinking-saloons and bar-rooms +were particularly noticeable in passing along the principal streets, +and all were doing a thriving business, judging from appearances. The +Cubans drink lightly, but they drink often, and are especially +addicted to gin, which is dealt out to them at an extraordinarily low +price. It appears that people can consume a much larger quantity of +spirituous liquors here without becoming intoxicated than they can do +at the North. It is very rare to see a person overcome by this +indulgence in Cuba, and yet, as was afterwards observed in Cienfuegos, +Matanzas, and Havana, the common people begin the day with a very +liberal dram, and follow it up with frequent libations until +bed-time,--tippling at every convenient opportunity. A few of the +better class of private houses were constructed with courts in the +centre, where flowers and tropical fruits were growing luxuriantly. +These dwellings were confined to no special quarter of the town, but +were as often found next to a commercial warehouse or a negro shanty +as elsewhere. The dogs, horses, and Chinese coolies were all in +wretched condition. One might count the ribs of the first two a long +way off, while the latter were ragged, lame, half-starved, and many +of them blind. Animals are the recipients of the severest sort of +usage both in Cuba and Spain. Few vehicles were to be seen, as +merchandise is mostly transported on the backs of mules and ponies, +and these animals are seldom shod. + +The town is lighted with gas, or rather it was so illuminated a few +weeks since; but it was quietly whispered about that the corporation +had failed to pay for this service last year, and that the monopoly +itself was on the verge of bankruptcy, like nearly everything else of +a business character in Cuba. The gaslights certainly appeared pale +and sickly enough, as though only half confirmed in the purpose of +giving any light at all, and were prematurely extinguished in many of +the streets. In the shops, whose fronts were all open, like those of +Canton and Yokohama, the clerks were to be seen in their shirt +sleeves, guiltless of vests or collars, coquetting over calicoes and +gaudy-colored merinos with mulatto girls decked in cheap jewelry, and +with negresses wearing enormous hoop-earrings. At the approach of +evening the bar-rooms and saloons, with a liberal display of +looking-glasses, bottles of colored liquors, gin, and glitter, were +dazzling to behold. The marble tables were crowded with domino and +card players, each sipping at intervals his favorite tipple. The +sidewalks are so narrow that the pedestrian naturally seeks the middle +of the street as a pathway, and the half a dozen victorias and four +volantes which form the means of transportation in Santiago, and which +are constantly wandering about in search of a job, manage to meet or +to overtake one perpetually; causing first a right oblique, then a +left oblique, movement, with such regularity as to amount to an +endless zig-zag. We did not exactly appreciate the humor of this +annoyance, but perhaps the drivers did. After climbing and descending +these narrow, dirty streets by daylight and by gaslight, and watching +the local characteristics for a few hours, one is only too happy to +take a boat back to the ship, and leave all behind. + +A desire for a cold bath and a good swim is natural in this climate +after sunset, but beware of indulging this inclination in the waters +of Santiago. Under that smooth, inviting surface, glistening beneath +the rays of a full moon, lurk myriads of sharks. They are large, +hungry, man-eating creatures, the tigers of the ocean, and the dread +of all local boatmen here. To fall overboard in these waters, however +good a swimmer one may be, is simply to be devoured. At Singapore, +Sumatra, or Batavia, a Malay will for a consideration dive into the +waters of the Malacca Straits, armed with a long, sharp knife, boldly +attack a shark, and rip open his bowels at the moment when he turns on +his side to give the deadly bite. But on that coast this dreaded fish +appears singly; it is rare to see two of them together; while Santiago +harbor seems to swarm with them, the dark dorsal fin of the +threatening creatures just parting the surface of the sea, and +betraying their presence. Lying at anchor between our ship and the +shore was a trig Spanish corvette,--an American-built vessel, by the +way, though belonging to the navy of Spain. It was curious at times to +watch her crew being drilled in various martial manoeuvres. While an +officer was exercising the men at furling topsails, a few days before +our arrival, a foretopman fell from aloft into the sea. Under +ordinary circumstances and in most waters, the man could easily have +been saved, but not so in this instance. He did not even rise to the +surface. A struggle for portions of his body between half a dozen +ravenous sharks was observed alongside the corvette, and all was +quickly over. The foretopman had been torn limb from limb and +instantly devoured. + +The over-stimulated brain felt no inclination for sleep on this first +night in the harbor, the situation was so novel, and the night itself +one to suggest poetic thoughts. The moon was creeping slowly across +the blue vault, like a great phantom mingling with the lambent purity +of the stars. We sat silently watching the heavens, the water, and the +shore; saw the lights go out one after another among the clustering +dwellings, and the street gas-burners shut off here and there, until +by and by the drowsy town was wrapped in almost perfect darkness. Only +the ripple of the sea alongside the ship broke the silence, or the +sudden splash of some large fish, leaping out of and falling back into +the water. It seemed as though no sky was ever before of such +marvelous blue depth, no water so full of mystery, no shore so clad in +magic verdure, and no night ever of such resplendent clearness. The +landing-steps and grating had been rigged out from a broad porthole on +the spar deck, where a quartermaster was awaiting the return of the +purser and a party of gentlemen who were making late, or rather early, +hours on shore; for it was nearly two o'clock in the morning, and the +weary seaman, who had sat down at his post on the grating, was snoring +like a wheezy trombone. The measured tread fore and aft of the second +officer, who kept the anchor watch, was the only evidence of +wakefulness that disturbed our lonely mood. A similar night scene was +vividly called to mind as experienced in Typhoon Bay, below Hong Kong, +a few years since. + +In the harbor, next morning, a sunken wreck was pointed out to us, +which was partially visible at low tide, not far from the shore. Only +the ribs and stanchions are still held together by the stout keel +timbers and lower sheathing. This wreck has lain there unheeded for +years, yet what a story these old timbers might tell, had they only a +tongue with which to give voice to their experience!--literally the +experience of ages. We refer to the remains of the old St. Paul, one +of the ships of the great Spanish Armada that Philip II. sent to +England in 1588, being one of the very few of that famous flotilla +that escaped destruction at the time. What a historical memento is the +old wreck! After a checkered career, in which this ancient craft had +breasted the waves of innumerable seas and withstood the storms of +nearly three centuries, she was burned to the water's edge here in the +harbor of Santiago a few years since, and sunk, where her remains now +lie, covered with slime and barnacles,--a striking emblem of the +nation whose flag she once proudly bore. During the last years of her +career afloat she was used for transporting troops from Europe, and as +a Spanish guard-ship in these seas by the local government. It is +doubtful if it is generally known that this relic of the Spanish +Armada is in existence. Curio-hunters, once put upon the scent, will +probably soon reduce these ancient timbers to chips, and a crop of +canes and snuff-boxes, more or less hideous and more or less +counterfeit, will ensue. + +Here we got our first experience of the present currency,--the +valueless circulating medium of Cuba. When one has occasion to visit +the island it is best to take American funds, either in bank-bills or +gold, sufficient to meet all ordinary expenses. Our bank-bills and our +gold are both at a premium. This will also save all necessity for +drawing on home through any local bankers, who have a way of charging +for the accommodation quite after the style of everything Spanish. The +hotel-keepers will require their pay on the basis of Spanish gold, but +will cheerfully allow a premium of six per cent. on American gold or +American bank-bills. As to the banks in Cuba, all are shaky, so to +speak; several have lately failed, and the others might as well do so. +It is not long since the president of the Havana Savings Bank placed a +pistol at his temple and blew his brains out. Mercantile credit may be +said to be dead, and business nearly at a standstill. Commercial +honesty is hardly to be expected from a bankrupt community, where the +people seem only to be engaged in the sale and purchase of lottery +tickets, a habit participated in by all classes. + +What little gold and silver coin there is found in circulation is +mutilated; every piece of money, large and small, has been subjected +to the ingenious punch, and thus has lost a portion of its intrinsic +value. American gold and silver, not having been thus clipped, justly +commands a six per cent. premium. + +The circulating medium upon the island is paper scrip, precisely +similar to that used in this country before the resumption of specie +payment. This scrip is dirty beyond endurance, and one absolutely +hesitates to take it in making change. + +When our currency became soiled and torn we could exchange it for new, +but there is no such facility in Cuba. One dollar of our money will +purchase $2.45 of this scrip. It passes current, and really seems to +answer the necessities of trade, but even the Cubans are not deceived +by it. They know that it is really worthless, being based upon +nothing, and issued indiscriminately by a bankrupt government. The +paper-mill grinds it out in five, ten, twenty, and fifty cent pieces +as fast as it can be put into circulation, while no one knows how much +has been issued. But one thing is known; namely, that every authorized +issue of a given sum has been enormously exceeded in amount. + +Within about five years, or less, an issue of bank-bills and of this +small currency was entrusted to an establishment in the United States, +when fourteen millions of dollars were printed in _addition_ to the +amount authorized! All were duly receipted for and signed by corrupt +Spanish officials, who coolly divided these millions among themselves! +The Captain-General of Cuba during whose administration this financial +stroke was accomplished came to the island a poor man, and returned to +Spain in two years possessed of three million dollars! + +There is no more beautiful or safe harbor in the world than that of +Santiago de Cuba, commercially speaking, as it is completely +land-locked and protected on all sides from storms; but for the same +reason it is as close and hot an anchorage as can be found in the +tropics. An intelligent resident gave us 80° Fahrenheit as the average +temperature of the year, though the thermometer showed a more +ambitious figure during our brief stay. There are but two seasons, +the wet and the dry, the latter extending from September to May. The +city might have an excellent water supply if there were sufficient +enterprise among the citizens to cause it to be conducted by pipes +from the springs in the neighboring hills. It is now wretchedly +deficient in this respect, causing both suffering and ill health in a +climate especially demanding this prime necessity of life. + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. + + +To reach Cienfuegos, our next objective point, one takes water +conveyance, the common roads in this district being, if possible, a +degree worse than elsewhere. It is therefore necessary to double Cape +Cruz, and perform a coasting voyage along the southern shore of the +island of about four hundred miles. This is really delightful sailing +in any but the hurricane months; that is, between the middle of August +and the middle of October. It would seem that this should be quite a +commercial thoroughfare, but it is surprising how seldom a +sailing-vessel is seen on the voyage, and it is still more rare to +meet a steamship. Our passage along the coast was delightful: the +undulating hills, vales, and plains seemed to be quietly gliding past +us of their own volition; the tremor of the ship did not suggest +motion of the hull, but a sense of delight at the moving panorama so +clearly depicted. No extensive range of waters in either hemisphere is +so proverbially smooth as the Caribbean Sea, during eight months of +the year, but a stout hull and good seamanship are demanded during the +remaining four, especially if coming from the northward over the +Bahama Banks and through the Windward Passage, as described in these +chapters. + +The city of Trinidad, perched upon a hillside, is passed at the +distance of a few miles, being pleasantly situated more than a league +from the coast. The town of Casilda is its commercial port. This +arrangement was adopted in the early days as a partial protection +against the frequent inroads of the buccaneers, who ceased to be +formidable when separated from their ships. Trinidad was once the +centre of the prosperous coffee trade of Cuba, but is now, and has +been for many years, commercially wrecked. It is very beautifully +located, with Mount Vijia for its background, in what is declared to +be the healthiest district upon the island. But it is an ancient city, +comparatively deserted, its date being nearly contemporary with that +of Santiago. Cienfuegos, its successful business rival, is on the +contrary quite modern, exhibiting many features of thrift and +activity, and is counted the third commercial city of Cuba. Like +Cardenas, it is called an American capital. It has some twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, a large proportion of whom speak English, nine +tenths of its commerce being with the United States. In this immediate +neighborhood Columbus, on his second voyage, saw with astonishment the +mysterious king who spoke to his subjects only by signs, and that +group of men who wore long white tunics like the monks of mercy, while +the rest of the people were entirely naked. The town is low and level, +occupying a broad plane. The streets are of fair width, crossing each +other at right angles, and are kept neat and clean. The harbor is an +excellent and spacious one, admitting of vessels being moored at the +wharves, a commercial convenience unknown at Santiago, Matanzas, or +Havana. The navies of all the world might rendezvous here and not +crowd each other. Three rivers, the Canudo, Saludo, and Danuyi, empty +into the bay, and each is navigable for a considerable distance +inland, a matter of great importance in a country so devoid of good +roads. The parti-colored houses are of the usual Cuban type, mostly of +one story, built with a patio or open courtyard in the centre, well +filled with flowering plants, among which were observed the attractive +coral-tree, which resembles a baby palm, and the universal banana. + +The Plaza of Cienfuegos forms a large, well-arranged square, where an +out-door military concert is given twice a week, a universal practice +in all Cuban cities. It is laid out with excellent taste, its broad +paths nicely paved, and the whole lighted at night with numerous +ornamental gas-lamps. The vegetation is both attractive and +characteristic, consisting of palms, laurels, and flowering shrubs, +mingled with which are some exotics from the North, which droop with a +homesick aspect. Plants, like human beings, will pine for their native +atmosphere. If it be more rigorous and less genial at the North, still +there is a bracing, tonic effect, imparting life and strength, which +is wanting in the low latitudes. On one side of this fine square is +the government house and barracks, opposite to which is an open-air +theatre, and in front is the cathedral with any number of discordant +bells. The little English sparrow seems to be ubiquitous, and as +pugnacious here as on Boston Common, or the Central Park of New York. +Boyish games are very similar the world over: young Cuba was playing +marbles after the orthodox fashion, knuckle-down. It was very pitiful +to behold the army of beggars in so small a city, but begging is +synonymous with the Spanish name, both in her European and colonial +possessions. Here the maimed, halt, and blind meet one at every turn. +Saturday is the harvest day for beggars in the Cuban cities, on which +occasion they go about by scores from door to door, carrying a large +canvas bag. Each family and shop is supplied with a quantity of small +rolls of bread, specially baked for the purpose, and one of which is +nearly always given to the applicant on that day, so the mendicant's +bag becomes full of rolls. These, mixed with vegetables, bits of fish, +and sometimes meat and bones when they can be procured, are boiled +into a soup, thus keeping soul and body together in the poor creatures +during the week. + +Cienfuegos is situated in the midst of a sugar-producing district, +where soil and climate are both favorable, and over twenty large +plantations are to be seen within a radius of two or three leagues. +The export from them, as we were informed by the courteous editor of +"La Opinion," a local paper, aggregates thirty thousand hogsheads +annually. The visitor should not fail to make an excursion to some +representative plantation, where it is impossible not to be much +interested and practically informed. One of these sugar estates, +situated less than two leagues from the town, was found to be +furnished with a complete outfit of the most modern machinery, which +had cost the proprietor a quarter of a million dollars. It was working +with the usual favorable results, though at the present price of sugar +no profit can accrue to the planter. The plantation presented a busy +scene. During the grinding season the machinery is run night and day, +but is obliged to lie idle for eight months out of the year. + +In the uncultivated fields through which we passed when driving out to +the sugar estate, the prickly pear grew close to the ground in great +luxuriance, as it is seen on our Western prairies. Its thick leaves, +so green as to be dense with color, impart the effect of greensward at +a short distance. On close inspection it was seen to be the star +cactus, which like the Northern thistle kills all other vegetation +within its reach. Here and there the wild ipecacuanha with its bright +red blossom was observed, but the fields, except those devoted to the +cane, were very barren near Cienfuegos. + +Sugar-cane is cultivated like Indian corn, which it also resembles in +appearance. It is first planted in rows, not in hills, and must be +hoed and weeded until it gets high enough to shade its roots. Then it +may be left to itself until it reaches maturity. This refers to the +first laying out of a plantation, which will afterwards continue +fruitful for years by very simple processes of renewal. When +thoroughly ripe the cane is of a light golden yellow, streaked here +and there with red. The top is dark green, with long narrow leaves +depending,--very much like those of the corn stalk,--from the centre +of which shoots upwards a silvery stem a couple of feet in height, and +from its tip grows a white fringed plume, of a delicate lilac hue. The +effect of a large field at its maturity, lying under a torrid sun and +gently yielding to the breeze, is very fine, a picture to live in the +memory ever after. In the competition between the products of +beet-root sugar and that from sugar-cane, the former controls the +market, because it can be produced at a cheaper rate, besides which +its production is stimulated by nearly all of the European states +through the means of liberal subsidies both to the farmer and to the +manufacturer. Beet sugar, however, does not possess so high a +percentage of true saccharine matter as does the product of the cane, +the latter seeming to be nature's most direct mode of supplying us +with the article. The Cuban planters have one advantage over all other +sugar-cane producing countries, in the great and inexhaustible +fertility of the soil of the island. For instance: one to two +hogsheads of sugar to the acre is considered a good yield in Jamaica, +but in Cuba three hogsheads is the average. Fertilizing of any sort is +rarely employed in the cane-fields, while in beet farming it is the +principal agent of success. + +Though the modern machinery, as lately adopted on the plantations, is +very expensive, still the result achieved by it is so much superior to +that of the old methods of manufacture that the small planters are +being driven from the market. Slave labor cannot compete with +machinery. The low price of sugar renders economy imperative in all +branches of the business, in order to leave a margin for profit. A +planter informed the author that he should spread all of his molasses +upon the cane-fields this year as a fertilizer, rather than send it to +a distant market and receive only what it cost. He further said that +thousands of acres of sugar-cane would be allowed to rot in the fields +this season, as it would cost more to cut, grind, pack, and send it to +market than could be realized for the manufactured article. Had the +price of sugar remained this year at a figure which would afford the +planters a fair profit, it might have been the means of tiding over +the chasm of bankruptcy which has long stared them in the face, and +upon the brink of which they now stand. But with a more than average +crop, both as to quantity and quality, whether to gather it or not is +a problem. Under these circumstances it is difficult to say what is to +become, financially, of the people of Cuba. Sugar is their great +staple, but all business has been equally depressed upon the island, +under the bane of civil wars, extortionate taxation, and oppressive +rule. + +If you visit Cienfuegos you will take rooms at the Hotel Union, as +being the least objectionable of the two public houses which the city +contains, and there you will make the acquaintance of Jane, who is an +institution in herself. Indeed, she will doubtless board your ship +when it first arrives, so as to enlighten you concerning the +excellences of the Union over its rival establishment, which will also +be sure to be represented. Jane is interpreter and general factotum of +that delectable posada, the Union, and being the only one in the house +who speaks either French or English, she becomes an important factor +in your calculations. Jane's nationality is a pleasing mystery, but +she may be classed as a Portuguese quadroon. Venus did not preside at +her birth, but, by means of the puff-ball and egg-shell powder, she +strives to harmonize her mottled features. Being interpreter, +waitress, hotel-runner, and chambermaid, she is no idler, and fully +earns the quarter eagle you naturally hand her at leave-taking. In +visiting the neighboring sugar plantation Jane acts as your guide, on +which occasion her independence will be sure to challenge admiration. +She salutes slave or master with equal familiarity, conducts you +through each process of the elaborate works, from the engine to the +crushing mill, and so on, until you reach the centrifugal machine, +where the glistening crystals of pure sugar fall into an open +receptacle ready for packing and shipment. She takes you into the +slave-quarters among the pickaninnies, hens, pigs, and pigeons, +looking on blandly and chewing huge pieces of cane while you +distribute the bright ten cent pieces with which you filled your +pocket at starting. If Jane slyly pinches a papoose and causes it to +yell, it is only for fun; she means no harm, though the dusky mite +gets smartly slapped by its mother for misbehaving. The cabin floor of +bare earth is sure to be covered with these little naked, sprawling +objects, like ants. On the way back to town Jane orders the postilion +to drive into the private grounds of a palatial Cuban residence, where +she boldly announces herself and party to the proprietor in good +rolling Spanish. It is the home of Señor N----, a wealthy merchant of +the city. We are received as though we belonged to the royal family. +The hospitable owner speaks English fluently, and answers our thousand +and one questions with tireless courtesy, takes us into his superb +fruit garden (of which more anon), then introduces us to his domestic +quarters, where everything appears refined, faultlessly neat, and +tasteful. If you go to the railroad station, as usual the evening +before departure, in order to secure tickets and get your baggage +labeled,--for the cars start in the morning before daylight,--Jane +will accompany you, riding by your side in the victoria. Excuse her if +she orders the calash thrown back, as she appears bonnetless in a +loud, theatrical costume, trimmed with red and yellow, and carrying a +bouquet in her freckled hands. It is her opportunity, and she looks +triumphantly at the street loungers in passing. If you are charged on +your bill a Delmonico price for a mythical lunch to be taken with you +on the journey to Matanzas, and which Jane has forgotten to put up, +pay without wrangling; it saves time and temper. + +The tropical garden which we visited just outside of Cienfuegos +embraced a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty +exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending to +the ground with the weight of its ripening fruit; the alligator pear +was marvelously beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and +color, the passion-flower; the soft delicate foliage of the tamarind +was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, +the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree) +being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time +by a single, pendent, glutinous bud nearly as large as a pineapple. +The date-palm, so suggestive of the far East, and the only one we had +seen in Cuba, was represented by a choice specimen, imported in its +youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform +and graceful shape, full of the green fruit, with here and there a +ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rusty-coated +fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad-spreading trees +depended the grape-fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as +gold, while the orange, lime, and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green +and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every turn, and filled the +garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with its tall, straight +stem and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. Guava, fig, +custard-apple, and bread-fruit trees, all were in bearing. Our +hospitable host plucked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his +chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or +elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, +of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had +turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Gan Eden. Through this +orchard of Hesperides we were accompanied also by the proprietor's two +lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise +in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory +with photographic fidelity. + +Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once +more to examine his beautiful specimens of the banana, which, with its +sister fruit the plantain, forms so important a staple of food in Cuba +and throughout all tropical regions. It seems that the female banana +tree bears more fruit than the male, but not so large. The average +clusters of the former comprise here about one hundred, but the latter +rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct specimens of the +cucumber-shaped product. From the centre of its large broad leaves, +which gather at the top, when it has reached the height of twelve or +fifteen feet there springs forth a large purple bud ten inches long, +shaped like a huge acorn, though more pointed. This cone hangs +suspended from a strong stem, upon which a leaf unfolds, displaying a +cluster of young fruit. As soon as these are large enough to support +the heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf +drops off, and another unfolds, exposing its little brood of fruit; +and so the process goes on until six or eight rings of young bananas +are started, forming, as we have said, bunches numbering from seventy +to a hundred. The banana is a herbaceous plant, and after fruiting its +top dies; but it annually sprouts up again fresh from the roots. From +the unripe fruit, dried in the sun, a palatable and nutritious flour +is made. + +No matter where one may be, in town or country, in the east or west +end of the island, Santiago or Havana, the lottery-ticket vender is +there. Men, women, and children are employed to peddle the tickets, +cripples especially being pressed into the service in the hope of +exciting the sympathies of strangers and thus creating purchasers. It +may be said to be about the only prosperous business at present going +on in this thoroughly demoralized island. Half the people seem to +think of nothing else, and talk of dreaming that such and such +combinations of numbers will bring good luck. Some will buy only even +numbers, others believe that the odd ones stand the best chance of +winning; in short, all the gambling fancies are brought to bear upon +these lotteries. Enough small prizes are doled out to the purchasers +of tickets, by the cunning management, to keep hope and expectation +ever alive in their hearts, and to coax out of them their last dollar +in further investments. "If," said a native resident of Matanzas to +us, "these lotteries, all of which are presided over by the officials, +are honestly conducted, they are the one honest thing in which this +government is concerned. Venal in everything else, why should they be +conscientious in this gambling game?" No one believes in the integrity +of the government, but, strange to say, the masses have implicit faith +in the lotteries. + +At one corner of our hotel in Cienfuegos, there sat upon the sidewalk +of the street a blind beggar, a Chinese coolie, whose miserable, +poverty-stricken appearance elicited a daily trifle from the habitués +of the house. Early one morning we discovered this representative of +want and misery purchasing a lottery ticket. They are so divided and +subdivided, it appears, as to come even within the means of the street +beggars! Speaking of blindness, the multiplicity of people thus +afflicted, especially among negroes and coolies, led to the +enumeration of those met with in a single day; the result was +seventeen. On inquiry it was found that inflammation of the eyes is as +common here as in Egypt, and that it runs a rapid and fatal +course,--fatal to the sight after having once attacked a victim, +unless it receives prompt, judicious, and scientific treatment. + +The Chinese coolies, who are encountered in all parts of the island, +but more especially in the cities, are almost invariably decrepit, +poverty-stricken mendicants, and very frequently blind. They are such +as have been through their eight years' contract, and have been +brought to their present condition by ill-treatment, insufficient +food, and the troubles incident to the climate. In the majority of +cases these coolies have been cheated out of the trifling amount of +wages promised to them, for there is no law in Cuba to which they can +appeal. There are laws which will afford the negro justice if resorted +to under certain circumstances, but none for the coolies. There are +some few Chinamen who have survived every exigency, and are now +engaged in keeping small stores or fruit stands, cigar making, and +other light employments, their only hope being to gain money enough +to carry them back to their native land, and to have a few dollars +left to support them after getting there. There are no Chinese +laundries in Cuba; John cannot compete with the black women in this +occupation, for they are natural washers and ironers. John is only a +skillful imitator. He proves most successful in the cigarette and +cigar factories, where his deft fingers can turn out a more uniform +and handsome article than the Cubans themselves. Machinery is fast +doing away with hand-made cigarettes. At the famous establishment of +La Honradez, in Havana, which we visited some weeks later, one machine +was seen in operation which produced ten thousand complete cigarettes +each hour, or a million per day! Still this same establishment +employed some fifty Chinese in order to supply its trade with the +hand-made article, for home consumption. The Cubans prefer to unroll +and readjust a cigarette before lighting it. This cannot be done with +the machine-made article, which completes its product by a pasting +process. The three machines (an American patent) at the Honradez +factory turn out three millions of cigarettes per day, and this is in +addition to those which are hand-made by the Chinese. + +The landlord of the Hotel Union, at Cienfuegos, will give you plenty +of fruit and cheap Cataline wine, but the meat which is served is poor +and consists mostly of birds. Any other which may be set before you +will hardly be found to be a success, but then one does not crave much +substantial food in this climate. There is a small wild pigeon which +forms a considerable source of food in Cuba, and which breeds several +times in a year. They are snared and shot in large numbers for the +table, but do not show any signs of being exterminated. Ducks and +water-fowl generally abound, and are depended upon to eke out the +short supply of what we term butcher's meat. Three quarters of the +people never partake of other meat than pigeons, poultry, and wild +ducks. Eggs are little used as food, being reserved for hatching +purposes. All families in the country and many in the cities make a +business of raising poultry, but the product is a bird of small +dimensions, not half the size of our common domestic fowls. They are +very cheap, but they are also very poor. The practice is to keep them +alive until they are required for the table, so that they are killed, +picked, and eaten, all in the same hour, and are in consequence very +tough. As the climate permits of hens hatching every month in the +year, the young are constantly coming forward, and one mother annually +produces several broods; chickens, like tropical fruits, are +perennial. + +Sunday is no more a day of rest in Cienfuegos than it is in other +Roman Catholic countries; indeed, it seemed to be distinguished only +by an increase of revelry, the activity of the billiard saloons, the +noisy persistency of the lottery-ticket venders, the boisterousness of +masquerade processions, and a general public rollicking. The city is +not large enough to support a bull-ring, but cock-pits are to be found +all over the island, and the Sabbath is the chosen day for their +exhibitions. It must be a very small and very poor country town in +Cuba which has not its cock-pit. The inveterate gambling propensities +of the people find vent also at dominoes, cards, checkers, and chess +in the bar-rooms, every marble table being in requisition for the +purpose of the games on Sundays. Having noticed the sparse attendance +at the cathedral, we remarked to Jane that the church was quite +empty, whereupon she replied with a significant leer, "True, Señor, +but the jail is full." More than once an underlying vein of sarcasm +was observed in the very pertinent remarks of which Jane was so +happily delivered. + +There are comparatively few slaves to be found on the plantations or +elsewhere in the vicinity of Cienfuegos: in fact, slavery is rapidly +disappearing from the island. "Slave labor is more costly than any +other, all things considered," said a sugar planter to us. "I do not +own one to-day, but I have owned and worked six hundred at a time," he +added. "We pay no tax on the laborers we hire, but on slaves we pay a +heavy head-tax annually." An edict has been promulgated by the home +government, which went into force last year, and which frees one slave +in every four annually, so that on January 1, 1888, all will have +become free. In the mean time the commercial value of slaves has so +decreased in view of their near emancipation that they are not +appraised on an average at over fifty or sixty dollars each. The law +has for a period of many years provided that any slave who pays to his +master his appraised value shall at once receive his free papers. Many +purchase their liberty under this law, and then hire themselves to the +same master or to some other, as they may choose,--at low wages, to be +sure, but including food and shelter. Slaves have always been entitled +by law in Cuba to hold individual property independent of their +masters, and there are few smart ones who have not accumulated more or +less pecuniary means during their servitude. They have had no expenses +to meet in the way of supporting themselves. That has devolved upon +their owners, so that whatever money they have realized by the several +ways open to them has been clear profit. Many slaves have anticipated +the period of their legal release from servitude, and more will do so +during the present year. We also heard of planters who, realizing the +inevitable, have manumitted the few slaves whom they still held in +bondage, and hiring them at merely nominal wages, believed they saved +money by the operation. + +It will be seen, therefore, that slavery as an institution here is +virtually at an end. Low wages will prevail, and this is necessary to +enable the planters to compete with the beet sugar producers of +Europe. In truth, it is a question how long they will be able to do so +at any rate of wages. The modern machinery being so generally adopted +by the sugar-cane planters, while remarkably successful, both, as to +the quality and the quantity of the juice it expresses from the cane, +not only is expensive in first cost, but it requires more intelligent +laborers than were found serviceable with the old process. To supply +the places of the constantly diminishing slaves, emigrants, as they +were called, have heretofore been introduced from the Canary Islands; +men willing to contract for a brief period of years, say eight or ten, +as laborers, and at moderate wages. These people have proved to be +good plantation hands, though not so well able to bear the great heat +of the sun as were the negroes; otherwise they were superior to them, +and better in all respects than the Chinese coolies, who as workers on +the plantations have proved to be utter failures. The mortality among +these Mongolians, as we learned from good authority, had reached as +high as sixty-seven per cent, within eight years of their date of +landing in Cuba, that being also the period of their term of contract. +None have been introduced into the island for several years. This +coolie importation, like the slave-trade with Africa, was a fraud and +an outrage upon humanity, and never paid any one, even in a mercenary +point of view, except the shipowners who brought the deceived natives +from the coast of China. Slavery in Cuba and slavery in our country +were always quite a different thing, and strange to say the laws of +the Spanish government were far more favorable and humane towards the +victims of enforced labor than were those established in our Southern +States. When the American negro ceased to be a slave, he ceased to +cultivate the soil for his master only to cultivate it for himself. +Not so in the tropics. The Cuban negro, in the first place, is of a +far less intelligent type than the colored people in the States; +secondly, the abundance of natural food productions in the low +latitudes, such as fruit, fish, and vegetables, requires of the negro +only to pluck and to eat; clothing and shelter are scarcely needed, +and virtually cost nothing where one may sleep in the open air without +danger every night in the year; and finally, the negro of the tropics +will not work unless he is compelled to. + +There is a certain class of the Spanish slaveholders who have always +fought against negro emancipation in any form,--fought against +manifest destiny as well as against sound principles, fought indeed +against their own clear interest, so wedded were they to the vile +institution of slavery. Yet to every thinking man on the island, it is +clearly apparent that human slavery in Cuba, as everywhere else, has +proved to be a disturber of the public peace, and has retarded more +than anything, else the material and moral progress of the entire +people. It is but a short time since that the editor of a Havana +newspaper, the "Revista Economica," was imprisoned in Moro Castle, and +without even the pretense of a trial afterwards banished from the +island, because he dared to point out the fact in print that the +freeing of the slaves would prove a mutual benefit to man and master, +besides being a grand act of humanity. Two years since the slaves on a +large plantation near Guines refused to work on a holiday which had +always heretofore been granted to them; whereupon the soldiery were +called in to suppress what was called a mutiny of the blacks, +resulting in nine negroes being shot dead, and many others put in +chains to be scourged at leisure. Doomed as we have shown slavery to +be, still it dies hard in Cuba. + +In the vicinity of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Trinidad, in the mountain +regions of the eastern district, there are many lawless +people,--banditti, in fact, who make war for plunder both upon native +and foreign travelers, even resorting in some cases to holding +prisoners for ransoms. Several aggravating instances of the latter +character came to our knowledge while we were on the spot. Since these +notes were commenced five of these robbers have been captured, +including the leader of the band to which they belonged, a notorious +outlaw named Clemente Martinez. They were taken by means of a +stratagem, whereby they were decoyed into an ambush, surrounded, and +captured red-handed, as they fought furiously, knowing that they had +no mercy to expect at the hands of the soldiers. It was the civil +guard at Rancho Veloz who made this successful raid into the hills, +and every one of the prisoners was summarily shot. Such, off-hand +punishment is dangerous, but in this instance it was no more prompt +than just. It is necessary, therefore, to carry arms for self-defense +upon the roads in some parts of the island, and even the countrymen +wear swords when bringing produce to market. Residents having occasion +to go any distance inland take a well-armed guard with them, to +prevent being molested by the desperate refugees who lurk in the hill +country. Undoubtedly many of these lawless bands are composed of +former revolutionists, who are driven to extremes by want of food and +the necessities of life. + +Our journey was continued from Cienfuegos to Havana, by way of +Matanzas, crossing the island nearly at right angles. The traveler +plunges at once by this route into the midst of luxuriant tropical +nature, where the vegetation is seen to special advantage, +characterized by a great variety of cacti and parasitic growth, +flowering trees and ever graceful palms, besides occasional ceibas of +immense size. Though the landscape, somehow, was sad and melancholy, +it gave rise to bright and interesting thoughts in the observer: +doubtless the landscape, like humanity, has its moods. Vegetation, +unlike mankind, seems here never to grow old, never to falter; crop +succeeds crop, harvest follows harvest; nature is inexhaustible,--it +is an endless cycle of abundance. Miles upon miles of the bright, +golden-green sugar-cane lie in all directions, among which, here and +there, is seen the little cluster of low buildings constituting the +negroes' quarters attached to each plantation, and near by is the tall +white chimney of the sugar-mill, emitting its thick volume of +wreathing smoke, like the funnel of a steamboat. A little on one side +stands the planter's house, low and white, surrounded by beautiful +shade trees and clustering groups of flowers. Scores of dusky Africans +give life to the scene, and the sturdy overseer, mounted on his little +Cuban pony, dashes back and forth to keep all hands advantageously at +work. One large gang is busy cutting the tall cane with sharp, +sword-like knives; some are loading the stalks upon ox-carts; some are +driving loads to the mill; some feeding the cane between the great +steel crushers, beneath which pours forth a ceaseless jelly-like +stream, to be conducted by iron pipes to the boilers; men, women, and +children are spreading the crushed refuse to dry in the sun, after +which it will be used for fuel. Coopers are heading up hogsheads full +of the manufactured article, and others are rolling up empty ones to +be filled. + +Some years ago, when the author first visited Cuba, the overseer was +never seen without his long, cutting whip, as well as his sword and +pistols. The latter he wears to-day, but the whip is unseen. The fact +is, the labor on the plantations is now so nearly free labor that +there is little if any downright cruelty exercised as of yore. Or, +rather, we will qualify the remark by saying that there has been a +vast improvement in this respect on the side of humanity. The shadow +of the picture lies in the past. One could not but recall in +imagination the horrors which so long characterized these plantations. +The bloodthirsty spirit of the Spanish slaveholders had free scope +here for centuries, during which time the invaders sacrificed the +entire aboriginal race; and since then millions of Africans have been +slowly murdered by overwork, insufficient food, and the lash, simply +to fill the pockets of their rapacious masters with gold. Few native +Cubans are sugar-planters. These estates are almost universally owned +and carried on by Spaniards from the European peninsula, or other +foreigners, including Englishmen and Americans. + +Occasionally, in the trip across the island, we passed through a crude +but picturesque little hamlet having the unmistakable stamp of +antiquity, with low straggling houses built of rude frames, covered at +side and roof with palm bark and leaves; chimneys there were +none,--none even in the cities,--charcoal only being used for cooking +purposes, and which is performed in the open air. About the door of +the long, rambling posada, a dozen or more horses were seen tied to a +long bar, erected for the purpose, but no wheeled vehicles were there. +The roads are only fit for equestrians, and hardly passable even for +them. At rare intervals one gets a glimpse of the volante, now so +generally discarded in the cities, and which suggested Dr. Holmes's +old chaise, prepared to tumble to pieces in all parts at the same +time. The people, the cabins, and the horses, are all stained with the +red dust of the soil, recalling the Western Indians in their war +paint. This pigment, or colored dirt, penetrates and adheres to +everything, filling the cars and decorating the passengers with a +dingy brick color. It was difficult to realize that these +comparatively indifferent places through which we glided so swiftly +were of importance and the permanent abode of any one. When the cars +stop at the small way-stations, they are instantly invaded by +lottery-ticket sellers, boys with tempting fruit, green cocoanuts, +ripe oranges, and bananas,--all cheap for cash. And here too is the +guava seller, with neatly sealed cans of the favorite preserve. +Indeed, it seems to rain guava jelly in Cuba. Others offer country +cheese, soft and white, with rolls, while in a shanty beside the road +hot coffee and "blue ruin" are dealt out to thirsty souls by a +ponderous mulatto woman. There are always a plenty of the denizens of +the place, in slovenly dresses and slouched hats, hands in pockets, +and puffing cigarettes, who do the heavy standing-round business. +Stray dogs hang about the car-wheels and track to pick up the crumbs +which passengers throw away from their lunch-baskets. Just over the +wild-pineapple hedge close at hand, half a score of naked negro +children hover round the door of a low cabin; the mother, fat and +shining in her one garment, gazes with arms akimbo at the scene of +which she forms a typical part. The engineer imbibes a penny drink of +thin Cataline wine and hastens back to his machine, which has been +taking water from an elevated cistern beside the track, the bell +rings, the whistle sounds, and we are off to repeat the process and +the picture, six or eight leagues further on. Take our advice and +don't attempt to make a meal at one of these stations. The viands are +wretchedly poor, and the price charged is a swindle. + +As we approach Matanzas the scene undergoes a radical change. +Comfortable habitations are multiplied, passable roads appear winding +gracefully about the country, groves and gardens spring into view, +with small and thrifty farms. Superb specimens of the royal palm begin +to appear in abundance, always suggestive of the Corinthian column. +Scattered over the hills and valleys a few fine cattle are seen +cropping the rank verdure. There is no greensward in the tropics, and +hay is never made. The scenery reminds one of Syria and the Nile. + +One sees some vegetable and fruit farms, but sugar raising absorbs +nearly every other interest, the tobacco leaf coming next, now that +coffee is so neglected. The farmer ploughs with the crooked branch of +a tree, having one handle with which to guide the crude machine,--just +such an instrument as is used for the purpose in Egypt to-day, and has +been used there for thousands of years. The cattle are mostly poor, +half-starved creatures,--starved amid a vegetation only too rank and +luxuriant. The dairy receives no attention in Cuba. Butter is seldom +made; the canned article from this country, thin and offensive, is +made to answer the purpose. The climate is too hot to keep butter or +cream without ice, and that is expensive. Human beings, men, women, +and children, look stunted and thin, possessing, however, wonderfully +fine eyes, large, lustrous, and ebony in hue; eyes that alone make +beauty; but the physiognomists have long since learned that eyes of +themselves are no indication of character or moral force. + +The thermometer had stood since early morning at 83°, during the long +ride from Cienfuegos. It was hot and dusty. Notwithstanding the +ceaseless novelty of the scene, one became a little fatigued, a little +weary; but as we approached Matanzas, the refreshing air from off the +Gulf of Mexico suddenly came to our relief, full of a bracing tonic, +and rendering all things tolerable. The sight of the broad harbor, +lying with its flickering surface under the afternoon sun, was +beautiful to behold. + +After all, these tropical regions lack the delicious freshness of the +greensward, of new foliage, and the fine fragrance of the rural North; +they need the invigorating sleep of the seasons from which to awake +refreshed and blooming. Where vegetation is growing and decaying at +the same time, there can never be general freshness and greenness; +eternal summer lacks interest; we crave the frost as well as the +sunshine. Compensation follows fast upon the heels of even a Northern +winter. The tropical loveliness of the vegetation in this attractive +land indicates what Cuba should be, but is not. + +Having accompanied the reader across many degrees of latitude, +effecting a landing and reaching the interior of Cuba, let us now pass +to other considerations of this interesting and important island. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. + + +The island of Cuba was discovered by the great Genoese pilot, on the +28th day of October, 1492. The continent of America was not discovered +until six years later,--in 1498. The name of Columbus flashes a bright +ray over the mental darkness of the period in which he lived, for the +world was then but just awakening from the dull sleep of the Middle +Ages. The discovery of printing heralded the new birth of the republic +of letters, and maritime enterprise received a vigorous impulse. The +shores of the Mediterranean, thoroughly explored and developed, had +endowed the Italian States with extraordinary wealth, and built up a +very respectable mercantile marine. The Portuguese mariners were +venturing farther and farther from the peninsula, and traded with many +distant ports on the extended coast of Africa. + +To the west lay what men supposed to be an illimitable ocean, full of +mystery, peril, and death. A vague conception that islands hitherto +unknown might be met afar off on that strange wilderness of waters was +entertained by some minds, but no one thought of venturing in search +of them. Columbus alone, regarded merely as a brave and intelligent +seaman and pilot, conceived the idea that the earth was spherical, and +that the East Indies, the great El Dorado of the century, might be +reached by circumnavigating the globe. If we picture to ourselves the +mental condition of the age and the state of science, we shall find no +difficulty in conceiving the scorn and incredulity with which the +theory of Columbus was received. We shall not wonder that he was +regarded as a madman or as a fool; we are not surprised to remember +that he encountered repulse upon repulse as he journeyed wearily from +court to court, and pleaded in vain to the sovereigns of Europe for +aid to prosecute his great design. The marvel is that when door after +door was closed against him, when all ears were deaf to his earnest +importunities, when day by day the opposition to his views increased, +when, weary and footsore, he was forced to beg a bit of bread and a +cup of water for his fainting and famishing boy at the door of a +Spanish convent, his reason did not give way, and his great heart did +not break with disappointment. + +But he felt himself to be the instrument of a higher power, and his +soul was then as firm and steadfast as when, launched in his frail +caravél upon the ocean, he pursued day after day and night after +night, amidst a murmuring, discontented, and even mutinous crew, his +westward path across the trackless waters. No doubt he believed +himself to be inspired, or at least specially prompted from above. +This was shown by his tenacious observance of all ceremonies of the +Church, in his unaffected piety, and in that lofty and solemn +enthusiasm which was a characteristic of his whole life. This must +have been the secret in no small degree of the power he exerted so +successfully over his semi-barbarous followers, who were more affected +by awe than by fear. It was the devout and lofty aspect of their +commander which controlled his sailors under circumstances so trying. +We can conceive of his previous sorrows, but what imagination can form +an adequate conception of his hopefulness and gratitude when the +tokens of the neighborhood of land first greeted his senses? What +rapture must have been his when the keel of his barque first grounded +on the shore of San Salvador, and he planted the royal standard in the +soil, as the Viceroy and High-Admiral of Spain in the New World! No +matter what chanced thereafter, a king's favor or a king's +displeasure, royal largesses or royal chains, that moment of noble +exultation was worth a lifetime of trials. + +Columbus first named Cuba "Juana," in honor of Prince John, son of +Ferdinand and Isabella. Subsequently the king named it Fernandina. +This was changed to Santiago, and finally to Ave Maria; but the +aboriginal designation has never been lost, Cuba being its Indian and +only recognized name. The new-comers found the land inhabited by a +most peculiar race, hospitable, inoffensive, timid, fond of the dance +and the rude music of their own people, yet naturally indolent, from +the character of the climate they inhabited. They had some definite +idea of God and heaven, and were governed by patriarchs or kings, +whose word was their only law, and whose age gave them undisputed +precedence. They spoke the dialect of the Lucayos, or Bahamas, from +which islands it is presumed by historians they originated; but it +would seem more reasonable to suppose that both the people of the +Bahamas and of the West India isles came originally from the mainland; +that is, either north or south of the Isthmus of Panama. In numbers +they were vaguely estimated at a million, a calculation the +correctness of which we cannot but doubt. Reliable local authority, +Cubans who have made a study of the early history of the island, +assured the author that the aborigines at the time of Velasquez's +first settlement, say in 1512, could not have exceeded four hundred +thousand. They had but few weapons of offense or defense, and knew not +the use of the bow and arrow. Being a peaceful race and having no wild +animals to contend with, their ingenuity had never been taxed to +invent weapons of warfare against man or beast. The natives were at +once subjected by the new-comers, who reduced them gradually to an +actual state of slavery, and proving hard task-masters, the poor +overworked creatures died by hundreds, until they had nearly +disappeared. The home government then granted permission to import +negroes from the coast of Africa to labor upon the soil and to seek +for gold, which was known to exist in the river courses. Thus +commenced the foreign slave-trade of the West Indies, King Ferdinand +himself sending fifty slaves from Seville to labor in the mines, and +from that time this plague spot upon humanity has festered on the +island. It should be remembered in this connection that previous to +the discoveries of Columbus, negro slavery had been reduced to a +system by the Moors, and thus existed in Spain before the days of the +great Genoese. + +The Spaniards were not content with putting the aborigines to labor +far beyond their power of endurance on the soil where they were born, +but shipped them by hundreds to Spain to be sold in the slave-market +of Seville, the proceeds being turned into the royal treasury. +Columbus himself was the promoter of this outrageous return for the +hospitality he had received at the hands of the natives. Irving +apologetically says he was induced to this course in order to +indemnify the sovereigns of Castile and Leon for the large expense his +expedition had been to them. The fact that the great navigator +originated the slave-trade in the New World cannot be ignored, though +it detracts in no small degree from the glory of his career. + +Although the conquerors have left us but few details respecting these +aborigines, still we know with certainty from the narrative of +Columbus, and those of some of his most intelligent followers, that +they were docile, artless, generous, but inclined to ease; that they +were well-formed, grave, and far from possessing the vivacity of the +natives of the south of Europe. They expressed themselves with a +certain modesty and respect, and were hospitable to the last degree. +Reading between the lines of the records of history, it is manifest +that after their own rules and estimates, their lives were chaste and +proper, though it was admissible for kings to have several wives. +Moreover, though living in a state of nudity, they religiously +observed the decencies of life, and were more outraged by Spanish +lasciviousness than can be clearly expressed. This debasing trait, +together with the greed for gold exhibited by the new-comers, +disabused the minds of the natives as to the celestial origin of their +visitors, a belief which they at first entertained, and which the +Spaniards for mercenary purposes strove to impress upon them. The +labor of this people was limited to the light work necessary to +provide for the prime wants of life, beyond which they knew nothing, +while the bounteous climate of the tropics spared the necessity of +clothing. They preferred hunting and fishing to agriculture; beans and +maize, with the fruits that nature gave them in abundance, rendered +their diet at once simple, nutritious, and entirely adequate to all +their wants. They possessed no quadrupeds of any description, except a +race of voiceless dogs, as they were designated by the early +writers,--why we know not, since they bear no resemblance to the +canine species, but are not very unlike a large rat. This animal is +trapped and eaten by the people on the island to this day, having much +of the flavor and nature of the rabbit. + +The native Cubans were of tawny complexion and beardless, resembling +in many respects the aborigines of North America, and as Columbus +described them in his first communication to his royal patrons, were +"loving, tractable, and peaceable; though entirely naked, their +manners were decorous and praiseworthy." The wonderful fecundity of +the soil, its range of noble mountains, its widespread and +well-watered plains, with its extended coast line and excellent +harbors, all challenged the admiration of the discoverers, so that +Columbus recorded in his journal these words: "It is the most +beautiful island that eyes ever beheld,--full of excellent ports and +profound rivers." And again he says; "It excels all other countries, +as far as the day surpasses the night in brightness and splendor." The +spot where the Spaniards first landed is supposed to be on the east +coast, just west of Nuevitas. "As he approached the island," says +Irving, "he was struck with its magnitude and the grandeur of its +features: its airy mountains, which reminded him of Sicily; its +fertile valleys and long sweeping plains, watered by noble rivers; its +stately forests; its bold promontories and stretching headlands, which +melted away into remotest distance." + +Excursions inland corroborated the favorable impression made by the +country bordering upon the coast. The abundance of yams, Indian corn, +and various fruits, together with the plentifulness of wild cotton, +impressed the explorers most favorably. Their avarice and greed were +also stimulated by the belief that gold was to be found in large +quantities, having received enough to convince them of its actual +presence in the soil, but in the supposition that the precious metal +was to be found in what is termed paying quantities they were +mistaken. + +The Spaniards were not a little surprised to see the natives using +rude pipes, in which they smoked a certain dried leaf with apparent +gratification. Tobacco was indigenous, and in the use of this now +universal narcotic, these simple savages indulged in at least one +luxury. The flora was strongly individualized. The frangipanni, tall +and almost leafless, with thick fleshy shoots, decked with a small +white blossom, was very fragrant and abundant; here also was the wild +passion-flower, in which the Spaniards thought they beheld the emblems +of our Saviour's passion. The golden-hued peta was found beside the +myriad-flowering oleander, while the undergrowth was braided with +cacti and aloes. The poisonous manchineel was observed, a drop of +whose milky juice will burn the flesh like vitriol. Here the invaders +also observed and noted the night-blooming cereus. They were delighted +by fruits of which they knew not the names, such as the custard-apple, +mango, zapota, banana, and others, growing in such rank luxuriance as +to seem miraculous. We can well conceive of the pleasure and surprise +of these adventurous strangers, when first partaking of these new and +delicate products. This was four hundred years ago, and to-day the +same flora and the same luscious food grow there in similar abundance. +Nature in this land of ceaseless summer puts forth strange eagerness, +ever running to fruits, flowers, and fragrance, as if they were +outlets for her exuberant fecundity. + +The inoffensive, unsuspicious natives shared freely everything they +possessed with the invaders. Hospitality was with them an instinct, +fostered by nature all about them; besides which it was a considerable +time before they ceased to believe their guests superior beings +descended from the clouds in their winged vessels. The Indians lived +in villages of two or three hundred houses, built of wood and +palm-leaf, each dwelling containing several families, the whole of one +lineage, and all were governed by caciques or kings, the spirit of the +government being patriarchal. + +We are told by Las Casas, who accompanied Velasquez in all his +expeditions, that "their dances were graceful and their singing +melodious, while with primeval innocence they thought no harm of being +clad only with nature's covering." The description of the gorgeous +hospitality extended to these treacherous invaders is absolutely +touching in the light of our subsequent knowledge. They reared no +sacred temples, nor did they seem to worship idols, and yet some few +antiquities have been preserved which would seem to indicate that the +natives possessed grotesque images, half human and half animal, like +Chinese gods in effect. These were wrought so rudely out of stone as +hardly to convey any fixed idea; vague and imperfect, it is not safe +to define them as idolatrous images. They might have been left here by +a previous race, for, as we are all aware, respectable authorities +hold that this part of the world was originally peopled by +Carthaginians, Israelites, Egyptians, Hindoos, and Africans. Columbus, +in his second voyage to the West Indies, found the stern-post of a +vessel lying on the shore of one of the Leeward isles, which was +strongly presumptive evidence that a European ship had been in these +waters before him. The fact that at this writing, as already +described, there lies in the harbor of Santiago the wreck of the old +St. Paul, which must be over three centuries old, shows how long a +piece of marine architecture may last, submerged in salt water. + +An idol similar to those referred to was dug up in Hayti, and is now +believed to be in the British Museum, drawings of which the author has +seen, and which resemble original religious emblems examined by him in +the caves of Elephanta, at Bombay. This emblem, carved by a people +unacquainted with the use of edge tools, is believed by antiquarians +to afford a degree of light as to the history of worship of the +ancient inhabitants of Hispaniola, and also to form a collateral +support of the conjecture that they sprang from the parent stock of +Asia. According to Las Casas, the native Cubans had a vague tradition +of the formation of the earth, and of all created things; of the +deluge, of the ark, the raven, and the dove. They knew the tradition +of Noah also, according to the same high authority, but for our own +part we do not believe that the aborigines had any knowledge of this +Biblical story. Their priests were fanatics and kept the people in +fear by gross and extravagant means; but as to any formulated system +of religious worship, it may be doubted if the aborigines of Cuba +recognized any at the time of its discovery by Columbus. Unbroken +peace reigned among them, and they turned their hands against no other +people. + +These aborigines exhibited many of the traits universally evinced by +savage races, such as painting their bodies with red earth and +adorning their heads with the feathers of brilliant birds. Much of the +soil is red, almost equal to a pigment, for which purpose it was +employed by the natives. They lived mostly in the open air, weaving +themselves hammocks in which they slept, suspended among the trees. +The cotton which they spun grew wild, but tobacco they planted and +cultivated after a rude fashion. The iguana and the voiceless dog, +already spoken of, were hunted and eaten, the former of the lizard +family, the latter scarcely more than fifteen inches long. They had +domestic birds which they fattened and ate. Their only arms were +lances tipped with sea-shells, and a sort of wooden sword, both of +which were more for display than for use. Fish they caught in nets and +also with hooks made of bones. Their boats, or canoes, were formed of +the dug-out trunks of trees, and some of these canoes, as Columbus +tells us, were sufficiently large to accommodate fifty men. An ancient +writer upon this subject says the oars were well formed and properly +fitted, but were used only with the power of the arms, that is as +paddles, no rowlocks being cut in the boat. The speed attained by +them was remarkable, reaching four leagues an hour when an effort to +that end was made by the occupants. A large canoe, made from the +straight trunk of a mahogany tree, is described as having been five +feet in width and seventy-five feet long. This craft was propelled by +twenty-five oarsmen on each side, a steersman in the stern, and a +lookout at the prow. This was a cacique's barge, in which he made +visits of state along shore and up the rivers. + +History has preserved a remarkable and characteristic speech made by a +venerable cacique, who approached Columbus with great reverence on the +occasion of his second visit to Cuba, and who, after presenting him +with a basket of ripe fruit, said: "Whether you are divinities or +mortal men, we know not. You have come into these countries with a +force, against which, were we inclined to resist, it would be folly. +We are all therefore at your mercy; but if you are men, subject to +mortality like ourselves, you cannot be unapprised that after this +life there is another, wherein a very different portion is allotted to +good and bad men. If therefore you expect to die, and believe, with +us, that every one is to be rewarded in a future state according to +his conduct in the present, you will do no hurt to those who do none +to you." This was duly interpreted to Columbus by a native whom he had +taken to Spain, and who had there acquired the Spanish language. His +name was Didacus, and the date of the speech was July 7, 1492. The +truth of this version is attested by Herrera and others. + +The reception which Bartholomew Columbus, who was appointed Deputy +Governor in the absence of the Admiral, afterwards met with in his +progress through the island to collect tribute from the several +caciques manifested not only kindness and submission, but also +munificence. Having heard of the eagerness of the strangers for gold, +such of them as possessed any brought it forth and freely bestowed it +upon the Spaniards. Those who had not gold brought abundance of +cotton. One cacique in the interior, named Behechio, invited the +Deputy Governor to a state entertainment, on which occasion he was +received with great ceremony. As he approached the king's dwelling, +the royal wives, thirty in number, carrying branches of palm in their +hands, came forth to greet the guest with song and dance. These +matrons were succeeded by a train of virgins. The first wore aprons of +cotton, the last were arrayed only in the innocence of nature, their +hair flowing long and freely about their shoulders and necks. Their +limbs were finely proportioned, and their complexions, though brown, +were smooth, shining, and lovely. The Spaniards were struck with +admiration, believing that they beheld the dryads of the woods and the +nymphs of the ancient fables. The branches which they bore were +delivered to the strangers with low obeisance, indicating entire +submission. When the Spaniards entered the rural palace, amid songs +and the rude music of the people, they found there a plentiful and, +according to the Indian mode of living, a sumptuous banquet prepared +for them. + +After the repast the guests were each conducted to separate lodgings, +and each provided with a cotton hammock. On the next day feasting and +games were resumed; dancing and singing closed each evening for four +consecutive days, and when the Deputy Governor and his people +departed, they were laden with gifts by their generous entertainers, +who also accompanied them far on their way. This episode will perhaps +serve better to give us a just insight into the condition and +character of the aborigines of Cuba at that early period than any +amount of detailed description possibly could. + +These aborigines, according to Las Casas, had no tradition even, +touching their own origin, and when asked about it only shook their +heads and pointed to the sky. Antiquarians have endeavored to draw +some reliable or at least reasonable deductions from the collection of +bones and skeletons found in the mountain caves of the island, but no +conclusion worthy of record has ever been arrived at. Still, upon +these evidences some scientists pin their faith that Cuba was a +portion of the primitive world. Speaking of these caves, there are +many subterranean openings on the island, down which rivers of +considerable size abruptly disappear, not again to be met with, though +it is reasonably presumed that they find their way through the rocks +and soil to the sea-coast. + +During the ten years subsequent to its discovery, Columbus visited and +partially explored the island at four different times, the last being +in 1502, four years previous to his death, which took place at +Valladolid in 1506. It seems singular to us that his investigations +left him still ignorant of the fact that Cuba was an island, and not a +part of a new continent. This conviction remained with him during his +lifetime. It was not until 1511 that the Spaniards commenced to +colonize the island, when Diego Columbus, then Governor of San +Domingo, sent an expedition of three hundred men for the purpose, +under the command of Diego Velasquez, whose landing was disputed by +the natives. A period of ten years had served to open their eyes to +Spanish lust and lore of gold, and from having at first regarded them +as superior beings, entitled to their obedience, they were finally +thus driven to fight them in self-defense. But what could naked +savages, armed only with clubs and spears, accomplish against +Europeans, trained soldiers, furnished with firearms, protected by +plate armor, and accompanied by bloodhounds,--men who had learned the +art of war by fighting successfully with the valiant Moors? The +natives were at once overpowered and hundreds were slaughtered. From +that time forth they became the slaves of their conquerors; a fact +which reconciles us in some degree in the light of poetical justice to +the fact that Amerigo Vespucci, who followed in the footsteps of +others, yet took the honors of discovery so far as to give his name to +the largest quarter of the globe. + +Diego Velasquez, the earliest Governor of the island, appears to have +been an energetic and efficient magistrate, and to have administered +affairs with vigor and intelligence. He did not live, however, in a +period when justice ever erred on the side of mercy, and his harsh and +cruel treatment of the aborigines will always remain a stain upon his +memory. The native population soon dwindled away under the sway of the +Spaniards, who imposed tasks upon them far beyond their physical +powers of endurance. The victims of this hardship had no one to +befriend them at that time, and no one has done them justice in +history. The few glimpses of their character which have come down to +us are of a nature greatly to interest us in this now extinct race. +Their one fault was in trusting the invaders at all. At the outset +they could have swept them from the face of the earth, but, once +permitted to establish themselves, they soon became too powerful to be +driven out of the land. A native chief, whose only crime was that of +taking up arms in defense of the integrity of his little territory, +fell into the hands of Velasquez, and was cruelly burned at the stake, +near what is now the town of Yara, as a punishment for his patriotism. +The words of this unfortunate but brave chief (Hatuey), extorted by +the torments which he suffered, were: "I prefer hell to heaven, if +there are Spaniards in heaven!" + +In point of energetic action and material progress, Velasquez reminds +us of a later Governor-General, the famous Tacon. In a single decade, +Velasquez founded the seven cities of Baracoa, Santiago de Cuba, +Trinidad, Bayamo, Puerto del Principe, St. Spiritus, and, on the south +coast near Batabano, Havana, since removed to its present site. He +caused the mines to be opened and rendered them profitable, introduced +valuable breeds of cattle, instituted agricultural enterprise, and +opened a large trade with San Domingo, Jamaica, and the Spanish +peninsula. Population increased rapidly, thousands of persons +emigrating annually from Europe, tempted by the inviting stories of +the returned explorers. Emigration schemes were approved and fostered +by the home government, and thus a large community was rapidly divided +among the several cities upon the island. Still this new province was +considered mainly in the light of a military depot by the Spanish +throne, in its famous operations at that period in Mexico. The fact +that it was destined to prove the richest jewel in the Castilian +crown, and a mine of wealth to the Spanish treasury, was not dreamed +of at that date in its history. Even the enthusiastic followers of +Cortez, who sought that fabulous El Dorado in the New World, had no +promise for this gem of the Caribbean Sea; but, in spite of every side +issue and all contending interests, the island continued to grow in +numbers and importance, while its native resources were far beyond the +appreciation of the home government. + +Thus Cuba became the headquarters of the Spanish power in the West, +forming the point of departure for those military expeditions which, +though circumscribed in numbers, were yet so formidable in the energy +of the leaders, and in the arms, discipline, courage, fanaticism, and +avarice of their followers, that they were amply adequate to carry out +the vast scheme of conquest for which they were designed. It was hence +that Cortez embarked for the conquest of Mexico; a gigantic +undertaking, a slight glance at which will recall to the mind of the +reader the period of history to which we would direct his attention. + +Landing upon the continent (1518) with a little band scarcely more +than half the complement of a modern regiment, Cortez prepared to +traverse an unknown country, thronged by savage tribes with whose +character, habits, and means of defense he was wholly unacquainted. +This romantic adventure, worthy of the palmiest days of chivalry, was +finally crowned with success, though checkered with various fortunes, +and stained with bloody episodes that prove how the threads of courage +and ferocity are inseparably blended in the woof and warp of Spanish +character. It must be remembered, however, that the spirit of the age +was harsh, relentless, and intolerant, and that if the Aztecs, +idolaters and sacrificers of human victims, found no mercy at the +hands of the fierce Catholics whom Cortez commanded, neither did the +Indians of our own section of the continent fare much better at the +hands of men professing to be disciples of a purer faith, and coming +to these shores, not as warriors, but themselves persecuted fugitives. + +The Spanish generals who invaded Mexico encountered a people who had +attained a far higher point of civilization than their red brethren of +the outlying Caribbean Islands, or those of the northeastern portion +of the continent. Vast pyramids, imposing sculptures, curious arms, +fanciful garments, various kinds of manufactures, the relics of which +strongly interest the student of the past, filled the invaders with +surprise. There was much that was curious and startling in their +mythology, and the capital of the Mexican empire presented a strange +and fascinating spectacle to the eyes of Cortez. The rocky +amphitheatre in the midst of which it was built still remains +unchanged, but the great lake which surrounded it, traversed by +causeways and covered with floating gardens laden with flowers, is +gone. + +The star of the Aztec dynasty set in blood. In vain did the +inhabitants of the conquered city, roused to madness by the cruelty +and extortion of the victors, expel them from their midst. Cortez +refused to flee farther than the shore; the light of his burning +galleys rekindled the desperate valor of his followers, and Mexico +fell, as a few years after did Peru under the perfidy and sword of +Pizarro, thus completing the scheme of conquest, and giving Spain a +colonial empire far more splendid than that of any other power in +Christendom. + +Of the agents in this vast scheme of territorial aggrandizement, we +see Cortez dying in obscurity and Pizarro assassinated in his palace, +while retributive justice has overtaken the monarchy at whose behest +the richest portions of the Western Continent were violently wrested +from their native possessors. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. + + +Baracoa lies one hundred miles northeast from Santiago, and was the +capital of the island as first established by Velasquez. Here Leo X. +erected in 1518 the first cathedral in Cuba. The town is situated on +the north coast, near the eastern extremity of the island, having a +small but deep harbor, and a considerable trade in the shipping of +sugar and fruits to this country. The population at present numbers +about six thousand. Five years after the settlement of Baracoa, the +capital was moved to Santiago de Cuba, where it remained until 1589, +when Havana was formally declared to be the capital of the island, its +first Captain-General being Juan de Tejada. The city was captured and +partially destroyed by a French pirate in 1638, and afterwards +suffered a like catastrophe at the hands of the buccaneers of combined +nationality, embracing some disaffected Spaniards. So late as 1760 +Havana was captured and held by the English, under the Duke of +Albemarle, but was restored to Spain, after a brief occupancy, in +1763. The first grand impulse to the material prosperity of the city, +anomalous though it may seem, was given through its capture by the +British. It is true that the victors seized everything by force, but +they also taught the listless people how to repair their losses, and +how to multiply prosperity. The port of Havana, accustomed heretofore +to receive the visits of half a score of European vessels annually, +suddenly became the rendezvous of a thousand ships in the same period +of time, much to the surprise of the inhabitants. Bourbon in nature as +the Spaniards were and still are, they could not but profit by the +brilliant example of their enemies, and from that time forward the +city grew rapidly in commercial importance, and has continued to do +so, notwithstanding the rivalry of Matanzas, Santiago, Cienfuegos, and +other ports, as well as the drawbacks of civil war and business +stagnation. + +These buccaneers of the West Indies, to whom we have so often alluded, +were composed mostly of English, French, and Dutch adventurers, whose +bitter hatred the Spaniards early incurred. They were for a long time +their terror and scourge, being the real masters of the ocean in these +latitudes. They feared no enemy and spared none, while by shocking +acts of needless cruelty they proved themselves fiends in human shape. +Among these rovers there were often found men particularly fitted for +the adventurous career they had adopted, men who combined remarkable +executive ability with a spirit of daring bravery and a total +disregard of all laws, human and divine. By a few such leaders the +bands of freebooters were held in hand, and preserved their +organization for many years; obedience to the word of their chief, +after he was once chosen as such, being the one inviolable law of +their union. The romance of the sea owes its most startling chapters +to the career of these pirates. Sometimes their principal rendezvous +was at the Isle of Pines; at others further north among the Bahamas, +Nassau being one of their favorite resorts. + +In the mean time, under numerous and often changed Captains-General, +the island of Cuba increased in population by free emigration from +Spain, and by the constant importations of slaves from Africa. It may +be said to have been governed by a military despotism from the very +outset to the present time; and nothing short of such an arbitrary +rule could maintain the connection between the island and so exacting +a mother country, more than three thousand miles across the ocean. +Accordingly we find the Captain-General invested with unlimited power. +He is in fact a viceroy appointed by the crown of Spain, and +accountable only to the reigning sovereign for his administration of +the colony. His rule is absolute. He has the power of life and death +in his hands. He can by his arbitrary will send into exile any person +who resides in the island whom he considers inimical to the interests +of the home government. Of the exercise of this power instances are +constantly occurring, as in the case of the editor of the "Revista +Economica," already recorded. He can at will suspend the operation of +the laws and ordinances, can destroy or confiscate property, and in +short, the island may be said to be in a perpetual state of siege. + +Such is the infirmity of human nature that few individuals can be +safely trusted with despotic power; accordingly we find no +Captain-General whose administration will bear the test of rigid +examination. Indeed, the venality of a majority of these officials +has been so gross as to have passed into a proverb. It is not to be +expected that officers from Spain should consult the true interests of +the Cubans; they are not sent hither for that purpose, but merely to +look after the revenue of the crown, and to swell it to the very +uttermost. The office of Governor-General is of course a brilliant +prize, for which there are plenty of aspirants eagerly struggling, +while the means by which a candidate is most likely to succeed in +obtaining the appointment presupposes a character of an inferior +order. This official knows that he cannot count on a long term of +office, and hence he makes no effort to study the interests or gain +the good-will of the people over whom he presides. He has a twofold +object only in view: namely, to keep the revenue well up to the mark, +and to enrich himself as speedily as possible. The princely salary he +receives--fifty thousand dollars per annum, with a palace and +household attendants supplied--is but a portion of the income which, +by a system of peculation, he is enabled to divert to his private +coffers. As a rule, the Captain-General comes out to Cuba a poor man, +and returns a rich one, however brief his term of office. + +Occasionally during the lapse of years a true and patriotic man has +filled this important post, when the remarkable elements of prosperity +contained within the limits of this peerless land were rapidly +developed and advanced. Such an one was Don Luis de las Casas, whose +name is cherished by all patriotic Cubans, as also is that of Don +Francisco de Arrango, an accomplished statesman and a native of +Havana. He was educated in Spain, and designed to follow the law as a +profession. This man, being thoroughly acquainted with the +possibilities of the island and the condition and wants of his +countrymen, succeeded in procuring the amelioration of some of the +most flagrant abuses of the colonial system. In his argument for +reform before the home government, he told them that serious dissent +permeated every class of the community, and was bid in return to +employ a still more stringent system of rule. To this Arrango replied +that force was not remedy, and that to effectually reform the +rebellious they must first reform the laws. His earnest reason carried +conviction, and finally won concession. By his exertions the staple +productions of the island were so much increased that the revenue, in +place of falling short of the expenses of the government as his +enemies had predicted, soon yielded a large surplus. He early raised +his voice against the iniquitous slave trade, and suggested the +introduction of white labor, though he admitted that the immediate and +wholesale abolition of slavery was impracticable. This was the rock on +which he split, as it regarded his influence with the Spaniards in +Cuba, that is, with the planters and rich property holders. Slavery +with them was a sine qua non. Many of them owned a thousand Africans +each, and the institution, as an arbitrary power as well as the means +of wealth, was ever dear to the Spanish heart. Former and subsequent +Captains-General not only secretly encouraged the clandestine +importation of slaves, after issuing an edict prohibiting it, but +profited pecuniarily by the business. It was owing to his exertions +that the duty on coffee, spirits, and cotton was remitted for a period +of ten years, and that machinery for the sugar plantations was allowed +to be imported into Cuba from the United States free of all duty. + +The patriotic services of Arrango were appreciated by the court of +Madrid, although he was at times the inflexible opponent of its +selfish schemes. The Cross of Charles III. showed the esteem in which +he was held by that monarch. With a modesty which did him honor he +declined to accept a title of nobility which was afterwards tendered +to him by his king. This patriotic son of Cuba was at heart a +republican, and declared that the king could make noblemen, but God +only could make gentlemen. In 1813, when, by the adoption of the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba became entitled to representation in the +general Cortes,--a privilege but briefly enjoyed,--he went to Madrid +as a deputy, and there achieved the crowning glory of his useful life: +namely, the opening of the ports of the island to foreign trade. In +1817 he returned to his native land with the rank of Counselor of +State and Financial Intendant of Cuba, also possessing the Grand Cross +of the Order of Isabella. He died in 1837, at the age of seventy-two, +after a long and eminently useful life, bequeathing large sums of +money for various public purposes in his native isle. + +When the invasion of Spain, which took place in 1808, produced the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba was considered entitled, as we have stated, +to enjoy its benefits, and it was so announced by royal statute; but +political revolution at home and a manifest restiveness upon the +island finally led in 1836 to the revoking of this royal statute, +which had never been practically operative, and the old Constitution +was proclaimed. + +Up to this period of time the various political events at home had +disturbed but slightly the tranquillity of this rich province of +Spain. The Cubans, although sensible of the progress of public +intelligence and wealth under the protection of a few enlightened +governors and through the influence of some distinguished and +patriotic individuals, still felt that these advances were slow, +partial, and limited. The most intelligent realized that there was no +regular system; that the public interests were sure to suffer, +confided to officials entrusted with unlimited power. They frequently +saw themselves betrayed by a cupidity which impelled the authorities +to enrich themselves in every possible way at the expense of general +suffering. Added to these sources of discontent was the powerful +influence exerted by the spectacle of the rapidly increasing greatness +of the United States, where a portion of the Cuban youths were wont to +receive their education. No matter in what political faith these +youths had left home, they were sure to return republicans. + +There also were the examples of Mexico and Spanish South America, +which had recently conquered with their blood their emancipation from +monarchy. Liberal ideas were naturally diffused by Cubans who had +traveled either in Europe or North America, there imbibing the spirit +of modern civilization. But with a fatuity and obstinacy which has +always characterized her, the mother country resolved to ignore all +causes of discontent, and their significant influence as manifested by +the people of the island. In place of yielding to the popular current +and introducing a liberal and mild system of government, she drew the +reins yet tighter, curtailing many former privileges. Thus it was that +blind persistence in the fatal principle of despotic domination +relaxed the natural bonds uniting Cuba and the mother country, and +infused gall into the hearts of the governed. Obedience still +continued, but it was the dangerous obedience of terror, not the +secure and instinctive spirit of loyalty. + +This severity on the part of the home government has naturally given +rise to several attempts to cast off the Spanish yoke. The first +occurred in 1823, when Simon Bolivar offered to aid the disaffected +party by throwing an invading force into the island. Another was made +in 1826, and a third in 1828. In 1848 a conspiracy was formed at +Cienfuegos and Trinidad to establish Cuban independence, under the +leadership of General Narciso Lopez; but finding that his plans were +premature, he escaped to this country, and here arranged a descent +upon the island, which he led in person: this was in 1850. General +Lopez, however, was not seconded by the timid natives, though they had +freely pledged themselves to do so, and his expedition, after winning +one decisive battle and several important skirmishes, was at last +overpowered and its leader promptly executed. General Lopez was an +adopted citizen of Cuba, and was married to one of her daughters. He +was executed at the age of fifty-two. + +The Lopez expedition would seem to have been the most serious and best +organized attempt at revolution in Cuba by invasion, though there have +been formidable attempts since. From 1868 to 1876 Cuba may be said to +have been in a state of chronic civil war. This outbreak was led by +Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, an able lawyer and wealthy planter of +Bayamo, in the eastern department of the island. He raised the +standard of independence on his estate, Demajagua, supported at the +outset by less than fifty men. This was in October, 1868, and by the +middle of November he had an organized army of twelve thousand men; +poorly armed, it must be admitted, but united in purpose and of +determined will. That portion of the island contiguous to Santiago, +and between that city and Cienfuegos, was for a long period almost +entirely in possession of the patriot forces. Here many sanguinary +battles were fought with varying fortune, at terrible sacrifice of +life, especially on the part of the government troops, over one +hundred thousand of whom, first and last, are known to have perished +in that district. Spain actually sent one hundred and forty-five +thousand enlisted men to Cuba during the eight years of active +warfare. Of this number those who finally returned to the European +peninsula were but a few hundreds! It was publicly stated in the +Cortes of Madrid that not enough of that immense force ever returned +to fill a single regiment! The climate was far more fatal to these +soldiers than were patriot bullets. The warfare was conducted by the +native Cubans mostly on the guerrilla plan, and was ten times more +destructive to the imported soldiers than to themselves. Discipline +counted for little or nothing in contending with men who fought +single-handed and from ambush, decimating the ranks of an invading +column, who in turn could only fire at random. + +Exhaustion and promised concessions, which were, as usual with the +Spanish government, never fulfilled, finally brought this struggle to +an end; but it cost Spain many millions of dollars and the lives of +over a hundred and fifty thousand men, saying nothing of the +destruction of an enormous amount of property on the island, belonging +to loyal Spaniards. Miles upon miles of thrifty plantations, with all +their buildings and machinery, were laid waste, and remain so to this +day. + +Since 1876 there have been roving bands of insurgents in existence, +causing the authorities more or less serious trouble, leading them at +times to make serious attempts at their entire suppression. But the +mountains and half-inaccessible forests of the eastern department +still serve to secrete many armed and disaffected people, whose +frequent outbreaks are made public by the slow process of oral +information. The press is forbidden to publish any news of this +character. Thus it will be seen that, although the spirit of liberty +may slumber in the island, it is by no means dead, nor is the intense +hatred which exists between the home-born Spaniard and the native +Cuban growing less from year to year. Indeed, the insurrection of +Trinidad and Cienfuegos (1868) still smoulders, and any extreme +political exigency would be liable to cause it to blaze forth with +renewed force. The region where the insurgents have always made their +rendezvous, and which they have virtually held for years, is nearest +to Guantanamo and Santiago. This mountainous district is the resort of +all runaway slaves, escaped criminals, and those designated as +insurgents. These together form at the present time a roving community +of several hundred desperate men. These refugees, divided into small +bands, make predatory raids upon travelers and loyal planters, as we +have described, to keep themselves supplied with the necessities of +life other than those afforded by the prolific hand of Nature. +Occasionally they are organized by some fresh leader, some daring +native, stimulated by a spirit of patriotism, and possessing some +executive ability; then follows a systematic outbreak of just +sufficient importance to harass the government, and to form, perhaps, +an excuse for demanding a fresh regiment of victims from the European +peninsula. Such a guerrilla contest engages the worst passions of the +combatants, and quarter is neither asked nor given when they come face +to face. The bloodthirsty acts of both sides, as related to the author +during his late visit to the spot, are too horrible to record in these +pages. It is not legitimate warfare, but rather wholesale murder, +which characterizes these occasions, and there is no expedient of +destruction not resorted to by both the refugees and the pursuing +soldiers. The nature of the country favors the revolutionists, and +determines their mode of conflict. Thus far, when the irregular bands +have been strong enough to meet these detachments of regulars sent +into their neighborhood to capture them, they have nearly always +beaten them gallantly, and this has served to perpetuate their hopes, +desperate as is a cause which only outlaws, escaped criminals, and +slaves dare to fight for. These people appear to be well supplied with +arms and ammunition, which it is said are smuggled to them from +sympathizers in this country, particularly from Florida. Though their +ranks are supposed to embrace but small numbers, still they form a +nucleus at all times, about which discontented spirits may gather. +Thus it is found necessary to quarter a foreign army of thirty +thousand soldiers upon the people at the present time, while half the +navy of Spain lies anchored in the ports of the island. + +One great drawback and defect in the character of the native Cubans +is a want of self-reliance. The remedy for the outrageous oppression +under which they have so long struggled lies within themselves; "for +they can conquer who believe they can." In the consciousness of +strength is strength, but the Creole republicans have never yet +evinced the necessary degree of true manhood to challenge general +outside sympathy, or to command the respect of other nationalities. +The numerous revolutionary outbreaks upon the island--so frequent in +the last half century as to be chronic--have all been of the most +insignificant character, compared with the importance of the occasion +and the object in view. These efforts have mostly been made from +without, almost entirely unsupported from within the borders of Cuba, +with the exception of that of 1868. It appears incredible that an +intelligent people, within so short a distance of our Southern coast, +constantly visited by the citizens of a free republic, and having the +example of successful revolt set them by the men of the same race, +both in the North and the South, weighed down by oppression almost +without parallel, should never have aimed an effectual blow at their +oppressors. It would seem that the softness of the unrivaled climate +of those skies, beneath which it is luxury only to exist, has unnerved +this people, and that the effeminate spirit of the original +inhabitants had descended in retribution to the posterity of their +conquerors. + +In closing these brief chapters relating to the early history of the +island of Cuba, and in bringing the record up to our own period, some +natural reflections suggest themselves as to the present condition of +the mother country. We follow with more than passing interest the +condition of Spain, whose history is so closely interwoven with our +own. From the close of the fifteenth century our paths have run on in +parallel lines, but while we have gone on increasing in power and +wealth, she has sunk in the scale of decadence with a rapidity no less +surprising than has been the speed of our own progress. At the +commencement of the sixteenth century Spain threatened to become the +mistress of the world, as Rome had been before her. She may be said to +have at that period dominated Europe. In art she was in the very +foremost position: Murillo, Velasquez, Ribera, and other famous +painters were her honored sons. In literature she was also +distinguished: both Cervantes and Lope de Vega contributed to her +greatness and lasting fame. While, in discoverers and conquerors, she +sent forth Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. The banners of Castile and +Aragon floated alike on the Pacific and the margin of the Indian +Ocean. Her ships sailed in every sea, and brought home freights of +fabulous value from all the regions of the earth. Her manufacturers +produced the richest silks and velvets; her soil yielded corn and +wine; her warriors were adventurous and brave; her soldiers inherited +the gallantry of the followers of Charles V.; her cities were the +splendid abodes of luxury, refinement, and elegance. She was the court +of Europe, the acknowledged leader of chivalry and of grandeur. + +This is the picture of what Spain was at no remote period of time, but +in her instance we have an example showing us that states are no more +exempt than individuals from the mutability of fate. So was it with +Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, and Rome, though in their case we look far +back into the vista of history to recall the change, whereas in the +instance of Spain we are contemporary witnesses. From a first-class +power, how rapidly she has sunk into comparative insignificance! She +has been shorn of her wealthy colonies, one after another, in the East +and in the West, holding with feeble grasp a few inconsiderable +islands only besides this gem of the Antilles, the choicest jewel of +her crown. Extremely poor and deeply indebted, she has managed for +years to extort by means of the most outrageous system of taxation a +large share of her entire revenue from the island of Cuba, her home +population having long since become exhausted by over-burdensome +imposts. Her nobles of to-day are an effeminate, soulless, and +imbecile race, while the common people, with some excellent qualities, +are yet ignorant, cruel, and passionate. The whole country is divided +against itself, the tottering throne being with difficulty upheld. +Even the elements have of late seemed to combine against her, +decimating whole cities of her southern possessions by earthquakes, +and smiting her people with pestilence. + +This simple statement of her present situation is patent to all who +read and observe. It is not an overdrawn picture. In it the moralist +beholds the retributive justice of providence. As Spain in the +plenitude of her power was ambitious, cruel, and perfidious, so has +the measure which she meted out to others been in return accorded to +herself. As with fire and sword she swept the Aztec and the Incas from +Mexico and Peru, so was she at last driven from these genial countries +by their revolted inhabitants. The spoiler has been despoiled, the +victor has been vanquished, and thus has Spain met the just fate +clearly menaced by the Scriptures to those who smite with the sword. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. + + +Having thus briefly glanced at the historical and political story of +Cuba,--whose very name seems bathed in sunshine and fragrance, yet +bedewed with human tears,--let us now consider its peculiarities of +climate, soil, and population, together with its geographical +characteristics. The form of the island is quite irregular, resembling +the blade of a Turkish scimitar slightly curved back, or that of a +long narrow crescent, presenting its convex side to the north. It +stretches away in this shape from east to west, throwing its western +end into a curve, as if to form a barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of +Mexico, and as if at some ancient period it had formed a part of the +American continent; severed on its north side from the Florida +peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf Stream, and from Yucatan, on its +southwestern point, by a current setting into the Gulf. Two broad +channels are thus formed, by either of which the Mexican Gulf is +entered. + +These channels are nearly of the same width, somewhat exceeding a +hundred miles each, the northern passage being a few miles the +broader. The Bahama Banks extend along its northern coast-line about +fifty or sixty miles distant, where commences the group of many small +isles known as the Bahamas, and of which we have already treated. On +her eastern extreme, near Cape Maysi, Cuba is within about fifty miles +of the western shore of Hayti, from which it is separated by the +Windward Passage. The southern shore is washed by the Caribbean Sea, +which is also here and there interspersed with small islands of little +importance. One hundred and fifty miles due south lies the British +island of Jamaica, with a superficial area of over four thousand +square miles. Still further to the eastward, on the other side of +Hayti, lies Porto Rico (like Cuba a Spanish possession), and the two +groups of islands known as the Leeward and Windward isles. These are +of various nationalities, including English, French, and Dutch, thus +completing the entire region familiarly known to us as the West +Indies. + +In approaching the coast from the Windward isles, the observant +traveler will notice the fields of what is called gulf-weed, which +floats upon the surface of the sea. It is a unique genus, found +nowhere except in these tropical waters, and must not be confounded +with the sea-weed encountered by Atlantic steamers off the Banks of +Newfoundland, and about the edges of the Gulf Stream in that region. +This singular and interesting weed propagates itself on the waves, and +there sustains, as on the shore of New Providence, zoöphytes and +mollusks which also abound in these latitudes. The poetical theory +relating to this sargasso, and possibly to the animals that cling to +it, is that it marks the site of an Atlantic continent sunk long ages +since, and that, transformed from a rooting to a floating plant, it +wanders round and round as if in search of the rocks upon which it +once grew. The southern shore of Cuba presents much of special +interest to the conchologist in the variety and beauty of the +sea-shells that abound upon its beaches. The water is of an exquisite +color, a brilliant green, very changeable, like liquid opal. Were an +artist truthfully to depict it, he would be called color-mad. Northern +skies are never reflected in waters of such fanciful hues. Some +beautiful specimens of white corals are found here, but they are not a +characteristic of the coast. + +On that portion bordering the Old Bahama Channel, and also opposite +the Isle of Pines, which Columbus named Evangelista,--on this south +shore, large numbers of turtles are taken annually, which produce the +best quality of tortoise-shell. It is strange that the habits of these +creatures down here in the Caribbean Sea should so closely resemble +those of the tiny tortoises described by Thoreau as frequenting Walden +Pond. The female turtle digs the hole in which to deposit her eggs on +the sandy beach, just above the margin of high tide, generally +choosing a moonlight night for the purpose. The hole is often so large +that the turtle will require an hour of industrious labor to dig it to +her entire satisfaction. Observing the strictest silence, the +turtle-hunter steals upon the animal, and with a single motion turns +it upon its back, rendering it utterly helpless, after which it can be +secured at will. Thousands are annually caught in this manner. + +It is a curious fact worth recalling to memory that four hundred +years ago, when Columbus first landed upon the island, he found that +the aborigines kept turtle corrals near the beach, amply supplied with +these animals. From them they procured eggs, and also furnished +themselves with the only meat which it was possible to obtain, if we +except that of the little "voiceless dog" which they hunted, and such +birds as they could snare. Probably as many turtles were taken by +those Carib Indians in 1492 as are caught by the fishermen this year +of our Lord, in the same waters, showing how inexhaustible is the +supply of Neptune's kingdom. Modern epicures may not therefore claim +any distinction as to the priority of discovery touching turtle soup +and turtle steaks, both of which were certainly indulged in by the +Caribs in Columbus' time, and probably they were in vogue many +centuries previous. + +One neither departs from nor approaches the Cuban shore without +crossing that marvelous ocean river, the Gulf Stream, with banks and +bottom of cold water, while its body and surface are warm. Its color, +in the region of the gulf where it seems to have its rise, is indigo +blue, so distinct that the eye can follow its line of demarkation +where it joins the common waters of the sea in their prairie-green. +Its surface temperature on the coast of the United States is from 75° +to 80° Fahrenheit. Its current, of a uniform speed of four to five +miles per hour, expends immense power in its course, and moves a body +of water in the latitude of the Carolina coast fully two hundred miles +wide. This aqueous body exceeds in quantity the rivers of the +Mississippi and the Amazon multiplied one thousand times. Its +temperature diminishes very gradually, while it moves thousands of +leagues, until one branch loses itself in Arctic regions, and the +other breaks on the coast of Europe. It is well known to navigators +that one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its outlet northward from the +Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage, and that here the current +extends to the depth of eight hundred fathoms; the width, however, in +this section is not over ten miles. It will be nothing new to tell the +reader that the sea, especially in its proximity to the continents, +has a similar topographical conformation beneath its surface. The +bottom consists of hills, mountains, and valleys, like the surface of +the earth upon which we live. A practical illustration of the fact is +afforded in the soundings taken by the officers of our Coast Survey in +the Caribbean Sea, where a valley was found giving a water depth of +three thousand fathoms, twenty-five miles south of Cuba. The Cayman +islands, in that neighborhood, are the summit of mountains bordering +this deep valley at the bottom of the sea. It is known to extend over +seven hundred miles, from between Cuba and Jamaica nearly to the head +of the bay of Honduras, with an average breadth of eighty miles. How +suggestive the subject of these submarine Alps! Thus the island of +Grand Cayman, scarcely twenty feet above sea level, is the top of a +mountain twenty thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet above the +bottom of the submarine valley beside which it rises,--an altitude +exceeding that of any mountain on the North American continent. A +little more than five miles, or say twenty-seven thousand feet, is the +greatest depth yet sounded at sea. + +With an extensive coast-line particularly well adapted for the +purpose, smuggling is at all times successfully carried on in Cuba, +stimulated by an almost prohibitory tariff. It is well understood that +many of the most prosperous merchants in Havana are secretly engaged +in this business. The blindness of minor officials is easily +purchased. The eastern department of the island is most notorious for +this class of illegal trade. It was through these agencies that the +revolutionists were so well supplied with arms, ammunition, and other +necessities during the eight years of civil war. While we are writing +these lines, the cable brings us news of a fresh landing of +"filibusters" on the shores in this immediate neighborhood. + +Cuba is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and compared with +the others has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory, +being about as large as England proper, without the principality of +Wales. Its greatest length from east to west is very nearly eight +hundred miles; its narrowest part is over twenty miles, and its +average width about forty miles. The circumference of the island is +set down at two thousand miles, and it is supposed to contain +thirty-five thousand square miles. The face of the interior is +undulating, with an average level of three hundred feet above the +surface of the sea. The narrow form of the island, and the chain of +mountains which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a +limited course for its rivers, and consequently most of these in the +rainy season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are +nearly dried up. Those streams which sustain themselves at all seasons +are well stocked with fine fish, and afford to lovers of the piscatory +art admirable sport. Near their mouths some of the rivers, like those +of the opposite coast of Florida, are frequented by crocodiles. + +The chain of mountains running through the centre of the island, more +or less broken in its course, is lofty in the east, but gradually +diminishes in elevation towards the west, until it becomes a series of +gently undulating hills of one or two hundred feet above sea level, +ceasing as a connected range in the vicinity of Matanzas. On the +easterly end this range of mountains approaches the south coast +between Puerto Principe and Trinidad. The country lying between Cape +Cruz, Cape Maysi, and the town of Holguin has the highest elevations; +the most lofty point, Turquino, lately measured, has a height of ten +thousand eight hundred feet. Illustrative of the great revolutions +which the globe has undergone in its several geological epochs, +petrified shells and bivalves are found on the summits of these +highest peaks, surrounded by coral rocks, both of which differ +entirely from those at present existing on the shores of the Antilles. +An immense bowlder was pointed out to us on the summit of La Gran +Piedra, at an elevation of five thousand feet, of totally different +composition from any other rocks on the island. The great mystery is +how such a mass of solid stone could have got there. Most of these +mountains are thickly wooded, some of them to their very tops, and +appear to be in a perpetual state of verdure. There are mahogany trees +in these hills reported to be of almost fabulous dimensions, besides +other trees of great age. Some idea of the excellence of the timber +grown in Cuba may be had from the fact that over one hundred Spanish +ships of war--some of which were of the largest size, mounting a +hundred and twenty guns--have been built from native stock at the port +of Havana. + +Copper ore is found in abundance, as well as silver and iron, in the +mountains. Snow is never known to fall even in these elevated +districts, and of course in no other part of the island. In the +interior, the extreme heat of the low-lying sea-coast and cities is +not experienced, and the yellow fever is unknown. Low, level swampy +land is found only on the southern coast, where there are some wild +deer, wild cats and dogs, which are hunted; the former introduced into +Cuba half a century since, the two latter descended from domestic +animals. Large tracts of undulating country are without trees, +affording good pasturage. In some of the mountains are extensive +caves, not unlike the caves of Bellamar near the city of Matanzas, in +which are still to be found the bones of an unknown race, while +several of these elevations are so precipitous as to be nearly +inaccessible. + +Travelers who have visited the Bay of Biscay, on the French and +Spanish shore near Biarritz, have observed how the rocks have been +worn into caverns, arches, alcoves, and honeycombed formations by the +action of the waters for centuries. Just so the soft limestone strata +beneath the surface of Cuba, in many portions of the island, have been +hollowed out, tunneled, and formed into caves, by the tremendous +downpour and wash of tropical rains. So the action of the sea has +created a cave under Moro Castle, at the mouth of the harbor of +Havana, as well as under that other Moro which stands guard over the +entrance of Santiago de Cuba. The existence of these subterranean +caverns has often led to serious accidents. In some instances +buildings which were by chance erected just over them have suddenly +been swallowed up as though by an earthquake. + +Many of the rivers are navigable for short distances. The longest is +the Cauto, in the eastern department, which, rising in the Sierra del +Cobre, passes between Holguin and Jiguani, and empties on the south +coast a little north of Manzanillo. It is navigable for half its +length, between fifty and sixty leagues. The river Ay has falls in its +course two hundred feet high, and a natural bridge spanning it, nearly +as remarkable as that of Virginia. The Sagua le Grande is navigable +for five leagues, and the same may be said of the river Sasa. The +Agabama, emptying on the south coast near Trinidad, is also partially +navigable. There are two hundred and sixty rivers in all, independent +of rivulets and torrents. So abundantly is the island supplied with +fresh-water springs, especially on the south side, that the pure +liquid filters through the fissures of the stratified rock in such +quantities as to form, by hydrostatic pressure, springs in the sea +itself some distance from the shore. The sulphurous and thermal +springs of San Diego are the resort of numerous invalids annually, who +come hither from Europe and America. + +The coast and harbors of Cuba are carefully marked for the purpose of +navigation by eighteen well-placed lighthouses, visible from fifteen +to twenty miles at sea, according to the importance of the surrounding +points. That which stands in Moro Castle, on the south side of the +harbor's entrance at Havana, is eighty feet in height and about a +hundred and fifty from the level of the sea. It is visible in clear +weather twenty miles from shore. In honor of a former Governor-General +this lighthouse bears the inscription "O'Donnell, 1844," in mammoth +letters. So plain and safe is the entrance to this harbor, which in +the narrowest part is some hundred yards wide, that a pilot is hardly +necessary, though foreign vessels generally take one. There is little +or no tide on this part of the coast, the variations never exceeding +two feet. No regular ebb and flow is therefore observable, but when +the land breeze rises there is a very slight tide-way setting out of +the harbor. No country in the world of the size of this island has so +many large and fine harbors. They number twenty-nine on its northern +side and twenty-eight on the southern. The well-defined water-line +along the yellow, rusty rocks of the coast shows the mark of ages, and +also that there has been no upheaval since the land took its present +shape. Where there are no regular harbors the shore is indented with +numerous deep channels forming inlets, safe only for native boatmen, +as the winding course of the blue waters covers myriads of sunken +rocks. On the southern side, opposite the Isle of Pines, there are +some beautiful reaches of beach, over which the gentle surf rolls +continuously with a murmur so soft as to seem like the whispered +secrets of the sea. Yet what frightful historic memories brood over +these deep waters of the Archipelago, where for nearly two centuries +floated and fought the ships of sea-robbers of every nationality, and +where the cunning but guilty slave-clippers, fresh from the coast of +Africa, loaded with kidnapped men and women, made their harbor! With +all their dreamy beauty, the tropics are full of sadness, both in +their past and present history. + +The occasional hurricanes, which prove so disastrous to the Bahamas +and other isles in the immediate vicinity of Cuba, rarely extend their +influence to its shores, but the bursts of fury which these usually +tranquil seas sometimes indulge in are not excelled in violence in the +worst typhoon regions. + +The nearest port of the island to this continent is Matanzas, lying +due south from Cape Sable, Florida, a distance of a hundred and thirty +miles. Havana is located some sixty miles west of Matanzas, and it is +here that the island divides the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, whose +coast-line, measuring six thousand miles, finds the outlet of its +commerce along the shore of Cuba, almost within range of the guns in +Moro Castle. Lying thus at our very door as it were, this island +stands like a sentinel, guarding the approaches of the Gulf of Mexico, +whose waters wash the shores of five of the United States, and by +virtue of the same position barring the entrance of the great river +which drains half the continent of North America. Nor does the +importance of the situation end here. Cuba keeps watch and ward over +our communication with California by way of the isthmus. The peculiar +formation of the southeastern shore of this continent, and the +prevalence of the trade-winds, with the oceanic current from east to +west, make the ocean passage skirting the shore of Cuba the natural +outlet for the commerce also of Venezuela, New Granada, Costa Rica, +and Nicaragua. It is not surprising, therefore, when we realize the +commanding position of the island, that so much of interest attaches +to its ultimate destiny. + +Cuba seems formed to become the very button on Fortune's cap. No +wonder that the Abbé Raynal pronounced it to be the boulevard of the +New World, or that the Spanish historian called it the fairest emerald +in the crown of Ferdinand and Isabella. Under any other government in +Christendom than that of Spain, the island would to-day have been one +vast smiling garden, for its natural advantages are absolutely +unequaled. To oppress and rob its inhabitants has been the unvarying +policy of the home government from first to last. The undisguised +system has been to extort from them every farthing possible in the way +of taxes. No legitimate business could sustain itself against the +enormous exactions of the Spanish rule. Coffee and cotton planting +have been absolutely driven out of the island by the taxes imposed +upon their production. In short, the mother country has carried her +system of oppression and despotism in Cuba to the utmost stretch of +human audacity. + +Probably no place has a finer or more desirable climate than has the +main portion of Cuba, with the clear atmosphere of the low latitudes, +no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and a season of endless summer. We +do not wonder that the Northern invalid turns instinctively towards so +inviting a clime, where Nature in all her moods is so regal. The +appearance of the sky at night is far brighter and more beautiful than +at the North. The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency +with the departure of the day. Sunset is remarkable for its soft +mellow beauty, all too brief to a New England eye accustomed to the +lingering brilliancy of our twilights. For more than half a century +the island has been the resort of invalids from colder climes in +search of health, especially those laboring under pulmonary +affections. Such have rarely failed to realize more or less benefit +from the mild and equable temperature. The climate so uniformly soft +and soothing, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so +delicious and abundant, give it a character akin to fairyland. Here +Nature seems ever in a tender, loving mood, the very opposite of her +cold temperament at the North. + +The best time to visit the island, for those who do so in search of +health, is from the beginning of January to the middle of May. It is +imprudent to remain in the cities of Cuba later than the latter +period, as the fever season then commences. The invalid will find that +very many physical comforts, and some things deemed imperative at +home, must be sacrificed here as quite unattainable: such, for +instance, as good beds, strict cleanliness, good milk, and sweet +butter. The climatic advantages must suffice for such deprivations. +During the greater portion of the year it is dry and hot, the rainy +season commencing in June and ending in September. The northeast +trade-winds blow over the island from March to October, and though it +is especially important to avoid all draughts in the tropics, still +one can always find a sufficiently cool and comfortable temperature +somewhere, when the trade-wind prevails. To persons in the early +stages of consumption this region holds forth great promise of relief; +the author can bear witness of remarkable benefit having been realized +in many instances. At the period of the year when New England invalids +most require to avoid the rigors of the prevailing east winds, namely, +in February, March, April, and early May, the island of Cuba is in the +glory of high summer, and enjoying the healthiest period of its annual +returns. When consumption originates in the island,--as was also found +to be the case at Nassau,--it runs its course to a fatal end with such +rapidity that the natives consider it to be a contagious disease. +Early in May the unacclimated would do well to leave, taking passage +up the Gulf to New Orleans, or across the Gulf Stream, which here runs +thirty-two miles in width, to Key West, Florida, thence by boat to +Tampa Bay, and by railroad to Sanford, and by the St. John's River to +St. Augustine, enjoying a brief stay at the latter places, where every +requisite convenience can be enjoyed. Jacksonville should not be +missed, and by coming north thus slowly and pleasantly, the change of +climate is not realized, and June weather will greet the returning +traveler with genial warmth. + +Owing to the proximity of the northwestern part of Cuba to our own +continent, the climate is somewhat variable, and at a height of five +hundred feet above the level of the sea, ice is sometimes, though +rarely formed; but, as has already been said in these notes, snow +never falls upon the island. At long intervals Cuba has been visited +by brief hailstorms, and persons who tell you this will add, "but we +never have known it in our day." In the cities and near the swamps, +the yellow fever, that scourge of all hot climates, prevails from the +middle of June to the last of October; but in the interior of the +island, where the visitor is at a wholesome distance from humidity and +stagnant water, it is no more unhealthy than our own cities in summer. +It is doubtful if Havana, even in the fever season, is any more +unhealthy than New Orleans at the same period of the year. Fevers of +different degrees of malignity prevail from May to November, and +occasionally throughout the year. Among these the yellow fever is the +most dangerous, and sooner or later all resident foreigners seem to +suffer from it, as a sort of acclimation; once experienced, however, +one is seldom attacked a second time. In the ports yellow fever is +often induced by carelessness and exposure; excesses on the part of +foreign sailors are frequently the cause of its fatal attack upon +them. The thermometer is never known to rise so high in Havana or +Santiago, the opposite extremes of the island, as it does sometimes in +New York and Boston. The average temperature is recorded as being 77°, +maximum 89°, minimum 50° Fahrenheit. We have been thus elaborate as +regards this matter because it is of such general interest to all +invalids who annually seek an equable clime. + +The principal cities are Havana, with a population of nearly three +hundred thousand; Matanzas, with fifty thousand; Puerto Principe, +thirty thousand; Cienfuegos, twenty-five thousand; Trinidad, fourteen +thousand; San Salvador, ten thousand; Manzanillo, Cardenas, Nuevitas, +Sagua la Grande, and Mariel. Among its largest and finest harbors +those of Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Nipe, and Nuevitas are the best; +the bay of Matanzas is also large, but shallow. This city stands next +to Havana in population, but not in commercial importance. It is said +to be healthier than the capital, but it lacks those attractions of +life and gayety which are essential even to invalids to render them +contented. The streets are wide, and many of the Moorish +characteristics of Spanish cities, so common in both this island and +the European peninsula, are wanting here. It was built much later and +more under foreign direction than Havana. The secret of the superior +health of Matanzas over that of the capital is undoubtedly because of +its better drainage and general cleanliness. + +Located in one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city +extends up the picturesque and verdant hills by which the bay is +surrounded, in the form of an amphitheatre. The fortifications are of +rather a meagre character, and could not withstand a well organized +attack for half an hour. Modern improvements in the construction of +heavy guns and projectiles have rendered all the forts in Cuba of no +importance as a means of defense against a first-class invading fleet. +The custom house is the most prominent building which strikes the eye +on approaching the city by water; though built of stone, it is only +one story in height, and was erected at the commencement of the +present century. On the heights above the city the inhabitants have +planted their country seats, from whence the view of the widespreading +bay forms a delightful picture. The climate is thought to be +especially adapted for the cure of throat and lung diseases, and the +city is annually resorted to by those seeking relief from these +troubles, as also by those afflicted with neuralgia and rheumatism. +The first land made by southern-bound steamers from Boston and New +York is the Monte del Pan, or Bread Mountain, forming a lofty +background for the city. There are three large churches in Matanzas, a +well appointed and spacious theatre, a bull-ring, and cock-pits. +Statistics show that the custom-house receipts of the port reach about +two million dollars annually. There are two railroads connecting the +city with Havana, one of which runs also to the interior southeasterly +to Cienfuegos, Sagua, and Villa Clara, intersecting a rich +sugar-producing country, from whence it brings a large amount of +freight to the coast for shipment. On these Cuban roads one rides in +American-built cars, drawn by American engines, and often run by +American engineers. Railroads were in use in Cuba before they were +adopted in any other Spanish-speaking country, and there are now +nearly a thousand miles in active operation on the island. + +Matanzas is bounded on the north by the river Yumuri, and on the south +by that of San Juan. The town is built upon the site of a former +Indian village, known to the early discoverers by the name of Yucayo. +It is upon the whole a well-built city, containing some small public +squares and a pretty Plaza de Armas, like that of Havana, ornamented +with choice trees and flowers, with a statue of Ferdinand VII. in its +centre. It was in this square that Gabriel Concepcion de la Valdez, a +mulatto poet and patriot of Cuba, was shot by the soldiers of the +line. He was accused of complicity with the slave insurrection of +1844, when the blacks attempted to gain their freedom. At the time of +his execution the first volley fired by the troops failed to touch a +vital spot, and the brave victim, bleeding from many wounds, still +stood erect, facing his executioners. He then pointed to his heart, +and said in a calm clear voice, "Aim here!" The order was at once +obeyed, and the second volley sent the heroic man to that haven where +there is no distinction as to color. This martyr, of whom +comparatively little is known to the public, possessed all the true +elements of a poet. Many of his productions have been preserved in +print, and some were translated and republished in England a few years +since. + +The Plaza of Matanzas is small, smaller even than that of Cienfuegos, +but it presents within its circumscribed space a great variety of +tropical trees and flowers, over which stand, sentinel-like, a few +royal palms with their ashen-gray stems and concentric rings. The star +of Bethlehem, fifteen feet high, was here seen full of lovely scarlet +blossoms; the southern jasmine, yellow as gold, was in its glory; +mignonette, grown to a graceful tree of twenty feet in height, was +fragrant and full of blossoms, close beside the delicate vinca, decked +in white and red. Some broad-leaved bananas were thriving in the +Plaza, while creeping all over that tree and shrub combined, the +Spanish bayonet, were pink, purple, and white morning-glories, at once +so familiar and suggestive. Opposite the Plaza are several government +offices, and two or three very large, fine club-houses, remarkable for +the excellence of their appointments and the spaciousness of the +public rooms. Club life prevails in Matanzas, as usual at the expense +of domestic life, just as it does in Havana, being very much like +London in this respect. It is forbidden to discuss politics in these +clubs, the hours being occupied mostly over games of chance, such as +cards, dominoes, chess, and checkers. Gambling is as natural and +national in Cuba as in China. Many Chinese are seen about the streets +and stores of Matanzas, as, indeed, all over the island--poor fellows +who have survived their apprenticeship and are now free. They are +peaceful, do not drink spirits, work from morning until night, never +meddle with politics, and live on one half they can earn, so as to +save enough to return to their beloved native land. You may persuade +him to assent to any form of religion as a temporary duty, but John is +a heathen at heart, and a heathen he will die. + +The famous afternoon drive of Matanzas was formerly the San Carlos +Paseo. It has fine possibilities, and is lined and beautifully +ornamented with thrifty Indian laurels. It overlooks the spacious +harbor and outer bay, but is now utterly neglected and abandoned; even +the roadway is green with vegetation and gullied with deep hollows. It +is the coolest place in the city at the evening hour, but the people +have become so poor that there are hardly a dozen private vehicles +owned in the city, and, consequently, its famous drive is deserted. +Matanzas, like all the cities of Cuba, is under the shadow of +depressed business, the evidences of which meet one on all hands. + +The two objects of special interest to strangers who visit Matanzas +are, first, the valley of the Yumuri, which may be described briefly +as a narrow gorge four miles long, through which flows the river of +the same name. The view of this lovely valley will recall, to any one +who has visited Spain, the Vega of Granada. There are several +positions from which to obtain a good view of the valley, but that +enjoyed from the Chapel of Monserrate, on the hill just back of the +town, is nearest, and was most satisfactory to us. The view includes a +valley, peaceful, tropical, and verdant, embracing plantations, +groves, and farms, in the midst of which the river glides like a +silver thread through the verdure, and empties into the Bay of +Matanzas. The universal belief is that this vale was once a vast, deep +lake, walled across the present seaward opening of the valley, from +whence a fall may have existed as a natural overflow. Some fearful +convulsion of nature rent this bowl and precipitated the lake into the +ocean, leaving only the river's course. + +The second object of note which the visitor will not willingly miss is +a sight of the famous caves of Bellamar, situated about two leagues +from the city proper. It is customary to make this trip in a volante, +and it is quite the thing to ride, at least once, in this unique +vehicle, the only article ever invented in Cuba. The road to the +caves is extremely rough, and this vehicle is best adapted to pass +over the irregularities. If there are only gentlemen of the party, go +on horseback. On entering the caves the visitor should throw off any +extra clothing that can conveniently be left behind, as it is very +warm within, and on coming out, unless one has an extra garment to put +on, too great a change of temperature will be realized. These singular +caves lead three hundred feet and more beneath the surface, and +present beauties to the eye incident to all such subterranean +formations. They were discovered accidentally, a few years since, by +some stone quarriers, who, on opening into them, imagined they had +broken the crust of the earth. In driving to the caves the Bay Street +road, through the city, should be taken, which forms one of the finest +thoroughfares of any Cuban town. The architecture of the dwellings is +that of combined Italian, Grecian, and Moorish, ornamented with +colonnades and verandas of stone and iron. Fine as the façades of +these houses are,--none above one story in height,--they present a +faded and forlorn aspect, a sort of dead-and-alive appearance, yet in +accordance with life and business, not only in Matanzas, but all over +the island. This one boulevard of Matanzas ends by the shore of the +bay, where the fine marine view will cause you to forget all other +impressions for the moment, but you will not tarry here. Turning +eastward you soon strike the road to the caves, and _such_ a road--it +is like the bed of a dry mountain torrent. + +Persons visiting Matanzas must make up their minds to be content with +indifferent hotel accommodations. In fact there are no really good +hotels in Cuba; those which exist are poor and expensive. On the +inland routes away from the cities there are none, and the humble +hostelries, or posadas, as they are called, are so indifferent in +point of comforts as not to deserve the name of inns. As a rule, +invalids rarely go beyond the cities to remain over night. Brief and +pleasant sojourns may be made at Havana, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, and +Sagua la Grande, from whence excursions can be made by rail or +otherwise and return on the same day. Let us qualify these remarks, as +applied to the Hotel Louvre at Matanzas. There was a degree of +picturesqueness about this establishment which was not without its +attraction, and it was certainly the most cleanly public house in +which we found a temporary home while on the island. Its rooms +surrounded a bright clean court, or patio, planted with creeping +vines, palmettos, bananas, and some fragrant flowering shrubs. The +dining-room is virtually out of doors, being open on all sides, and +opposite the hotel is a small plaza with tropical trees, backed by an +old, musty church, whose bell had the true Spanish trick of giving +tongue at most inopportune moments. The rooms of the Louvre are quite +circumscribed as to space, and the partitions separating the +apartments do not reach to the ceiling, so that privacy, night or day, +is out of the question. The floors are all tiled in white marble, and +the attendance is courteous. One does not look for a choice bill of +fare in Cuba, and therefore will not be disappointed on that score. +You will be charged Fifth Avenue prices, however, if you do not get +Fifth Avenue accommodations. If you have learned in your travels to +observe closely, to study men as well as localities, to enjoy Nature +in her ever-varying moods, and to delight in luxurious fruits, +flowers, and vegetation, you will find quite enough to occupy and +amuse the mind, and make you forget altogether the grosser senses of +appetite. + +Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of Cuba, and +is located well inland. The trade of the place, from the want of water +carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the number of +its inhabitants, which aggregates nearly thirty-one thousand. The +product of the neighborhood, to find means of export, must first make +its way twelve and a half leagues to Nuevitas, from whence, in return, +it receives its foreign supplies. The two places are now, however, +connected by a railroad. Puerto Principe is about one hundred and +fifty leagues from Havana. Its original location, as founded by +Velasquez in 1514, was at Nuevitas, but the inhabitants, when the +place was feeble in numbers, were forced to remove from the coast to +avoid the fierce incursions of the pirates, as did the people of +Trinidad, who removed from the harbor of Casilda. + +Cardenas is situated a hundred and twenty miles from Havana on the +north coast, and is the youngest town of note in Cuba, having been +founded so late as 1827. It has a population of between four and five +thousand. Its prosperity is mostly owing to the great fertility of the +land by which it is surrounded. It is called the American city, +because of the large number of Americans doing business here, and also +because the English language is so universally spoken by the people +who reside in the place. The Plaza contains an excellent marble statue +of Columbus, and is tastefully ornamented with tropical verdure. In +the harbor of Cardenas is seen one of those curious springs of fresh +water which bubble up beneath the salt sea. The city is the centre of +a sugar-producing district, and a considerable portion of the sugar +crop of the vicinity of Havana is also shipped from this port to +America. It is connected with both the metropolis and Matanzas by +rail, and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary +time for doing so. + +Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island, +are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of +it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable +timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might, +with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone, +which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of +the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture +are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never +be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have +not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are +passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the +Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the +purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well +as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything +practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. + + +Havana is a thoroughly representative city,--Cuban and nothing else. +Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being +the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been +reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with +its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall +sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the +harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the +Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city +side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind +the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of +Spain,--the banner of blood and gold. So many and strong +fortifications show how important the home government regard the +place. + +The harbor or bay is shaped like one's outspread hand, with the wrist +for an entrance, and is populous with the ships of all nations. It +presents at all times a scene of great maritime activity. Besides the +national ships of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers +from Europe and America are coming and going daily, also coasting +steamers from the eastern and southern shores of the island, added to +regular lines for Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea. The +large ferry steamers plying constantly between the city and the Regla +shore, the fleet of little sailing boats, foreign yachts, and +rowboats, glancing in the burning sunlight, create a scene of great +maritime interest. + +The city presents a large extent of public buildings, cathedrals, +antique and venerable churches. It has been declared in its prosperity +to be the richest place for its number of square miles in the world, +but this cannot be said of it at the present time. There is nothing +grand in its appearance as one enters the harbor and comes to anchor, +though Baron Humboldt pronounced it the gayest and most picturesque +sight in America. Its multitude of churches, domes, and steeples are +not architecturally remarkable, and are dominated by the colossal +prison near the shore. This immense quadrangular edifice flanks the +Punta, and is designed to contain five thousand prisoners at a time. +The low hills which make up the distant background are not +sufficiently high to add much to the general effect. The few palm +trees which catch the eye here and there give an Oriental aspect to +the scene, quite in harmony with the atmospheric tone of intense +sunshine. Unlike Santiago or Matanzas, neither the city nor its +immediate environs is elevated, so that the whole impression is that +of flatness, requiring some strength of background to form a complete +picture. The martial appearance of the Moro and the Cabanas, +bristling with cannon, is the most vivid effect of the scene, taken as +a whole. It might be a portion of continental Spain broken away from +European moorings, and floated hither to find anchorage in the +Caribbean Sea. One is also reminded of Malta, in the farther +Mediterranean, and yet the city of Valetta, bright, sunny, and +elevated, is quite unlike Havana, though Fortress St. Angelo overlooks +and guards the place as the Moro does this tropical harbor, and Cuba +is the Italy of America. + +The waters of the harbor, admittedly one of the finest in the world, +are most of the time extremely dirty. Many years ago a canal was +commenced which was designed to create a flowage calculated to keep +the harbor clear of the constantly accumulating filth, but it was +never finished, and there remains an evidence of Spanish inefficiency, +while the harbor continues to be a vast cesspool. It would be supposed +that in a fever-haunted region, great attention would be bestowed upon +the matter of drainage, but this is not the case in Havana, or other +cities of the island. Most of the effort made in this direction is +surface drainage, the liquid thus exposed quickly evaporating in the +hot sunshine, or being partially absorbed by the soil over which it +passes. + +Havana contains numerous institutions of learning: a Royal University, +founded in 1733, a medical and law school, and chairs of all the +natural sciences. In spite of their liberal purposes and capabilities, +however, there is a blight hanging over them. Pupils enlist cautiously +and reluctantly. Among other schools there is a Royal Seminary for +girls, scarcely more than a name, a free school of sculpture and +painting, and a mercantile school, with a few private institutions of +learning. There is a fairly good museum of natural history, and just +outside the city a botanical garden. Still the means of education are +very limited in Cuba, an evidence of which is the fact that so many of +her youth of both sexes are sent to this country for educational +purposes. An order was at one time issued by the government +prohibiting this, but its arbitrary nature was so very outrageous, +even for a Spanish government, that it was permitted to become a dead +letter. What are called free schools, as we use the term, are not +known in the island; the facilities for obtaining even the simplest +education are very poor. Boys and girls, so far as any attempt is made +to educate them, are taught separately, and really under the eye of +the Church. Priests and nuns are the agents, the former notoriously +making a cloak of their profession for vile and selfish purposes. If +we speak decidedly upon this subject, yet we do so with less emphasis +than do the Cubans. The girls are taught embroidery and etiquette, +considered to be the chief and about the only things necessary for +them to know. These young girls are women at the age of thirteen or +fourteen, and frequently mothers of families before they are twenty. +Of course they fade early. In domestic life the husband is literally +lord and master, the wife, ostensibly at least, is all obedience. +There is no woman's rights association on the island, nor even a +Dorcas society. While young and unmarried, the ladies are strict +adherents to all the conventionalities of Spanish etiquette, which is +of the most exacting character, but after marriage the sex is perhaps +as French as the Parisians, and as gay as the Viennese, under the +stimulus of fast and fashionable society. + +The reason of the edict issued by the government forbidding parents +to send their children to this country for educational purposes was +obvious. The young Cubans during their residence here imbibed liberal +ideas as to our republican form of government, which they freely +promulgated and advocated on their return to their native island. Even +those who had been educated in France or England, and they were +numerous, readily sympathized with the pupils returned from America, +and became a dangerous element. Long before the first Lopez +expedition, these sons of planters and rich merchants had formed +themselves into a secret society, with the avowed purpose of freeing +Cuba sooner or later from the Spanish yoke. + +The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel, +after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall, +though the population has long since extended its dwellings and +business structures far into what was, half a century since, the +suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and +decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved +or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of +Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental +Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are +no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and +in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides +in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of +respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless +she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit, +etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes +seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a +portable seat, or a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble +floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette +says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle, +and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule. + +The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving +them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone +so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into +suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the +atmosphere. The façades of the town houses are nearly always covered +with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue, +harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will +strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system +observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy +as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon +the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors +give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the +broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two +full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad +verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house, +some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors +are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'être; namely, to absorb +the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of +the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of +vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object +stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities +which will strike the stranger. + +The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open +square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is +attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room, +chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family +vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common +by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second +story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family +chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends +round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems, +it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with +it. + +With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in +far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to look about for the +Alhambra. An air of rude grandeur reigns over these houses, the +architecture being Gothic and Saracenic. In the more ancient portions +of the town little picturesque balconies of iron or wood jut out from +the second-story windows, where the houses rise to the dignity of two +stories. From these balconies hang little naked children, like small +performers upon the trapeze, until the passer-by fears for their +lives. The travel in the narrow streets is regulated by law, and so +divided that only certain ones are used for vehicles going north, and +others for those traveling south. Thus, vehicles bound into the city +from the Paseo go by the way of Obispo Street, but must return by +O'Riley Street, so that no two ever meet in these narrow +thoroughfares,--a plan which might be advantageously adopted +elsewhere. + +The rooms of the houses are lofty and the floors stuccoed or tiled in +marble, while the walls and ceilings are frequently ornamented in +fresco, the excellence of the workmanship varying in accordance with +the owner's means. The most striking peculiarity of the town-house in +Cuba is the precaution taken to render it safe against sudden attack. +Every man's house is literally his castle here, each accessible window +being secured with stout iron bars, reaching from the top to the +bottom, while bullet-proof doors bar the entrance,--the whole +seriously suggestive of jails and lunatic asylums. No carpets are used +even in the parlors, though a long rug is sometimes placed between the +inevitable double row of rocking-chairs. The best floors are laid in +white marble and jasper. The great heat of the climate renders even +wooden floors quite insupportable. The visitor is apt to find his bed +rather unsatisfactory, it being formed by stretching a coarse canvas +upon a framework, with an upper and under sheet. Mattresses are not +used by the natives, who reject them as being too warm to sleep upon, +but the liberality evinced in the shape of mosquito netting is as +commendable as it is necessary. + +The public vehicle called a victoria is a sort of four-wheeled calash, +and it has entirely superseded the volante for city use. There are +thousands of them about the town, forming a collection of wretchedly +wornout carriages, drawn by horses in a like condition. The drivers +occupy an elevated seat, and are composed equally of whites and +negroes. The charge for a passage from point to point within the city +is forty cents in Cuban paper money, equal to sixteen cents of our +currency; three times that sum is charged if engaged for the hour. The +streets are in a very bad condition and sadly need repairing. The +roads leading out to the suburbs in every direction are full of deep +holes, and are badly gullied by the heavy rains. The streets, even +about the paseos, are so impregnated with filth, here and there, as to +be sickening to the senses of the passer-by. Once in three or four +weeks somebody is awakened to the exigency of the situation, and a +gang of men is put to work to cleanse the principal thoroughfares, but +this serves only a temporary purpose. We were told that the reason for +this neglect was that no one was regularly paid for work; even the +police had not received any pay for seven months, and many refused to +serve longer. The soldiery had not been paid their small stipend for +nearly a year, but enlisted men sent out from Spain, forming the army, +are more easily kept together and more amenable to discipline than any +civil body of officials could be. "With everybody and everything so +enormously taxed," we ventured to suggest to our informants, "there +should be no lack of pecuniary means wherewith to carry on all +departments of the government. Pray what becomes of all this money?" +The reply was, "Who can say?" with a significant shrug of the +shoulders. With all the exactions of the officials, and with the +collection of nearly thirty millions of dollars annually, but a moiety +finds its way into the national treasury. Peculation is reduced to a +science, and is practiced from the highest to the lowest official sent +out by the home government. "Spain has squeezed the orange nearly +dry," said a distinguished Cuban to us in Matanzas, "and a collapse is +inevitable. We are anxiously waiting to see it come; any change would +be for the better. We were long threatened with a war of races, if we +did not sustain Spanish rule in the island. That is, if we were not +loyal to the Madrid authorities, the slaves should be freed to prey +upon us. Blood would flow like water. The incendiary torch would be +placed in the hands of the negroes, and they should be incited to +burn, steal, and ravish! Cuba should be Spanish or African. There was +a time when this threat had great force, and its execution was indeed +to be dreaded; but that time is past, and no such fear now exists. The +slaves are being gradually freed, and are amalgamating with the rest +of the populace. The slow liberation of the blacks has accustomed them +to freedom, and any organized outrage from that source has ceased to +be feared." + +Why all the bells in Havana should be rung furiously and continuously +every morning about daylight, one cannot exactly understand. There +does not seem to be any concert of action in this awful conspiracy +against sleep; but the tumult thus brought about would certainly seem +to be sufficient to "wake the isle from its propriety." From every +square with its church, and every church with its towers, this +brazen-tongued clamor is relentlessly poured forth. In most Christian +lands one good bell is all-sufficient for a church steeple, but here +they have them in the plural, and all striving to excel each other at +the same moment. Of course no one is able to sleep amid such an +outburst of noise, or within the radius of a league. Bells and +mosquitoes are two of the prevailing nuisances of this thrice-sunny +city. Nor must we forget to add to these aggravations the ceaseless, +triumphant crowing of the game-cocks, the noisiest and most boastful +of birds, large numbers of which are kept by the citizens purely for +gambling purposes in the cock-pit. Besides these "professional" birds, +every nook and corner is filled with fowls kept for brooding purposes, +each bird family with its crower. + +We have said that the Cuban ladies rarely stir abroad except in a +vehicle, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are certainly +good housekeepers in this respect. While our ladies are busy sweeping +the city sidewalks with their trailing dresses, these wisely leave +that business to the gangs of criminals detailed from prison to fill +that office, with their limbs chained and a heavy ball attached to +preserve their equilibrium,--though we should qualify this remark by +saying that these condemned men, once so common upon the streets and +highways, were not seen during our late visit to Havana. It is, +perhaps, owing to the home-keeping habits of the ladies that the feet +of the Cuban señoritas are such marvels of smallness and delicacy, +seemingly made rather for ornament than for use. You catch a glimpse +of them as they step into their victorias, and perceive that they are +daintily shod in French slippers, the soles of which are scarcely more +substantial than brown paper. Their feet are made for ornament and for +dancing. Though they possess a roundness of form that leaves nothing +to be desired in symmetry of figure, still they are light as a +sylph,--so buoyant, clad in muslin and lace, that it would seem as if +a breeze might waft them away like a summer cloud. Passionately fond +of dancing, they tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their worship +of Terpsichore, stimulated by those Cuban airs which are at once so +sweet and so brilliant. + +There is a striking and endearing charm about the Cuban ladies, their +every motion being replete with a native grace. Every limb is elastic +and supple. Their voices are sweet and low, while the subdued tone of +their complexions is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black +eyes, that alternately swim in melting lustre, and sparkle in +expressive glances. If their comeliness matures, like the fruits of +their native clime, early and rapidly, it is sad to know that it also +fades prematurely. One looks in vain for that serene loveliness +combined with age which so frequently challenges our admiration at the +North. Their costume is never ostentatious, though often costly, and +sometimes a little too mixed or variegated when seen in public. At +home, however, nothing of this sort is observed. There the dress is +usually composed of the most delicate muslin, the finest linen, and +richest silks. We must admit that one rarely sees elsewhere such +contrasts in colors upon the person of the fair sex as are at times +encountered upon the Paseo. It would drive a French modiste wild to +see the proprieties so outraged. It requires all the proverbial beauty +of these señoras and señoritas to carry off respectably such +combinations as scarlet and yellow, blue and purple, orange and green; +but they do it by sheer force of their beautiful eyes and finely +rounded figures. It must be acknowledged that the element of native +refinement is too often wanting, and that the whole exhibition of the +sex is just a little prononcée. They have no intellectual resort, but +lead a life of decided ease and pleasure much too closely bordering +upon the sensuous, their forced idleness being in itself an incentive +to immorality and intrigue. The indifferent work they perform is +light and simple; a little sewing and embroidery, followed by the +siesta, divides the hours of the day. Those who can afford to keep +their victorias wait until nearly sunset for a drive, and then go to +respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the caballeros on the +paseos; afterwards to the Parque de Isabella II., to listen to the +military band, and then, perhaps, to join in the mazy dance. That +these ladies are capable of deep feeling and practical sympathy on +such occasions as would naturally draw these qualities forth, we know +by experience. When the patriot forces were poorly armed, with but +scant material, and ammunition was short, these fair patriots gave +freely of their most valuable jewels as a contribution to the cause of +liberty. + +A sad instance illustrative of this fact was told us by a resident of +Havana. The young ladies and matrons of a certain circle in the city, +at the commencement of the year 1872, had put their diamonds and +precious stones together to realize money for forwarding supplies to +the insurgents under Cespedes, who was then operating in the vicinity +of Santiago. The jewels were secretly intrusted to a brother of one of +the ladies, a young man who had just reached the age of twenty-two. +His part of the business was the most difficult to perform, but he +finally succeeded in realizing over four thousand dollars in gold for +the gems intrusted to him. Fortunately the money was at once forwarded +to the patriot leader through a safe and reliable channel. Hardly had +the business been accomplished to the satisfaction of all concerned +when the young Cuban was secretly denounced to the Governor-General as +a suspected person. The settings and jewels had all been disposed of +so as to be beyond recognition, and it is not known to this day how +the brother's complicity with his sisters and their friends was +divulged, but presumedly it was through the Jew pawnbrokers. The +brother was arrested and thrown into Moro Castle, where he was +subjected to the closest examination to find out his accomplices. +Loyal and affectionate, he could not be made to speak. He was finally +offered his freedom and permission to leave the island if he would +divulge all. The government reasoned that if they could make a witness +of him they would succeed in serving their own interest best, as by +sacrificing one prisoner they might gain knowledge of many disaffected +people whom they did not even suspect of disloyalty. One of the +sisters of the prisoner determined to assume the guilt, and declare +that her brother was the unknowing agent of her purpose; but when at +last satisfied that this would not free him, she reluctantly gave up +the design. The young Cuban maintained his silence. No publicity was +given to the matter. He was brought before a military tribunal--so +much is known. The sentence never publicly transpired. Like most +political prisoners who pass within the walls of Moro Castle, his fate +remains a secret. + +There are two sides to every picture; even light casts its shadow, and +we feel constrained to speak plainly. Social life in the island is +certainly at a very low ebb, and unblushing licentiousness prevails. +That there are many and noble exceptions only renders the opposite +fact the more prominent. This immorality is more particularly among +the home Spaniards, whose purpose it is to remain here long enough to +gain a certain amount of money, and then to return to the mother +country to enjoy it. They look upon all associations contracted here +as of a temporary character, and the matter of morality does not +affect them in the least. Domestic comforts are few, and, as we have +intimated, literature is hardly recognized. The almost entire absence +of books or reading matter of any sort is remarkable. A few daily and +weekly newspapers, under rigid censorship, supply all the taste for +letters. Married women seem to sink far below their husbands in +influence. The domestic affections are not cultivated; in short, home +to the average Cuban is only a place to sleep,--not of peaceful +enjoyment. His meals are rarely taken with his family, but all spare +hours are absorbed at the club. Domestic infidelity is prevalent, and +female virtue but little esteemed. Priest-craft and king-craft have +been the curse of both Spain and Cuba. Here, as in Italy, the +outrageous and thinly-disguised immorality of the priesthood poisons +many an otherwise unpolluted fount, and thus all classes are liable to +infection. Popery and slavery are both largely to be charged with the +low condition of morals, though the influence of the former has of +late years been much curtailed, both in Spain and in Cuba. The young +women are the slaves of local customs, as already intimated, and +cannot go abroad even to church without a duenna,--a fact which in +itself proves the debased standard of morals. The men appear to have +no religion at all, but the women very generally attend early mass and +go periodically to confessional. No one seems to think it strange for +a white man to have a colony of mulatto children, even though he be +also the father of a white family! Many have only the mulatto family, +and seem content. These are generally the home Spaniards, already +spoken of, and when their fortunes are secured they recklessly sever +all local ties and responsibilities and return to Spain. This is no +new thing, as there are many families in Cuba of fair position +socially, and often of considerable wealth, whose members are by the +right of classification quadroons. Miscegenation has greatly +complicated social matters, and in half a century, more or less, it +may produce a distinctive class, who will be better able to assert and +sustain their rights than those who have preceded them. + +The class of home Spaniards who have emigrated to Cuba has always been +of a questionable character. The description of them by Cervantes in +his time will apply in our own day with equal force. He says: "The +island is the refuge of the profligates of Spain, a sanctuary for +homicides, a skulking-place for gamblers and sharpers, and a +receptacle for women of free manners,--a place of delusion to many, of +amelioration to few." + +One peculiarity which is sure to strike the stranger unpleasantly, and +to which allusion has incidentally been made, whether in public or +private houses, in the stores or in the streets, is that the colored +children of both sexes, under eight and nine years of age, are +permitted to go about in a state of nudity. In the country, among the +Montero class, this custom also extends to the white children. The +colored men who labor in the streets and on the wharves wear only a +short pair of linen pantaloons, displaying a muscular development +which any white man might envy. The remarkable contrast in the +powerful frames of these dusky Africans and the puny Asiatic coolies +is extraordinary. On the plantations and small farms the slaves wear +but one garment, just sufficient for decency. The great heat when +exposed to the sun is the reason, probably, rather than any economical +idea. + +The populace of Havana is eminently a festive one. Men luxuriate in +the café, or spend their evenings in worse places. A brief period of +the morning only is given to business, the rest of the day and night +to melting lassitude, smoking, and luxurious ease. Evidences of +satiety, languor, and dullness, the weakened capacity for enjoyment, +are sadly conspicuous, the inevitable sequence of indolence and vice. +The arts and sciences seldom disturb the thoughts of such people. +Here, as in many European cities, Lazarus and Dives elbow each other, +and an Oriental confusion of quarters prevails. The pretentious +town-house is side by side with the humble quarters of the artisan, or +even the negro hut, about which swarm the naked juveniles of color, a +half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of +this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon +some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but +being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to +some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong +contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements +of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored +where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain +seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is +the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms +most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes, +ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though +there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people +of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most +hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance +of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were +told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and +hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was +obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true. + +Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to +improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us +state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found +where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta +fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh +from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by +much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It +is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of, +refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of +the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The +island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less +similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs. +Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative +properties. + +In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets +at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores, +workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the +master in his shirt-sleeves, surrounded by his family, clerks, and +all white employees, sitting in full sight at breakfast, generally in +the business room itself. The midday siesta, an hour later, if not a +necessity in this climate, is a universal custom. The shopkeeper, even +as he sits on duty, drops his head upon his arm and sleeps for an +hour, more or less. The negro and his master both succumb to the same +influence, catching their forty winks, while the ladies, if not +reclining, "lose themselves" with heads resting against the backs of +the universal rocking-chairs. One interior seen by the passer-by is as +like another as two peas. A Cuban's idea of a well-furnished +sitting-room is fully met by a dozen cane-bottom rocking-chairs, and a +few poor chromos on the walls. These rocking-chairs are ranged in two +even lines, reaching from the window to the rear of the room, with a +narrow woollen mat between them on the marble floor, each chair being +conspicuously flanked by a cuspidor. This parlor arrangement is so +nearly universal as to be absolutely ludicrous. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafés. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. + + +On no other occasion is the difference between the manners of a +Protestant and Catholic community so strongly marked as on the +Sabbath. In the former, a sober seriousness stamps the deportment of +the people, even when they are not engaged in devotional exercises; in +the latter, worldly pleasures and religious forms are pursued, as it +were, at the same time, or follow each other in incongruous +succession. We would not have the day made tedious, and it can only be +so to triflers; to the true Christian it will ever be characterized by +thoughtfulness and repose. The Parisian flies from the church to the +railway station to join some picnic excursion, or to assist at the +race-course, or he passes with a careless levity from St. Geneviève to +the dance booths of the Champs Elysées. In New Orleans, the Creole who +has just bent his knee before the altar repairs to the theatre to pass +the evening; and the Cuban goes from the absolution of the priest to +the hurly-burly of the bull-ring or the cock-pit. + +The influence of fifteen minutes in the church, if salutary, would +seem to be quickly dissipated by the attraction of the gaming-table +and the masked ball. Even the Sunday ceremonial of the Church is a +pageant: the splendid robes of the officiating priest, changed in the +course of the service like the costume of actors in a drama; the +music, to Protestant ears operatic and exciting; the clouds of incense +scattering their intoxicating perfumes; the chanting in a strange +tongue, unknown to the majority of the worshipers,--all tend to give +the Roman Catholic services a carnival character. Far be it from us, +however, to charge these congregations with an undue levity, or a lack +of sincerity. Many a lovely Creole kneels upon the marble floor +entirely estranged from the brilliant groups around her, and +apparently unconscious for the time of the admiration she excites. +There are many, no doubt, who look beyond the glittering symbols to +the great truths of the Being whom they are intended to typify. The +impression made by the Sabbath ceremonials of the Church strikes us as +evanescent, more pleasing to the fancy than informing to the +understanding. Still, if the Sabbath in Catholic countries is not +wholly devoted to religious observances, neither are the week days +wholly absorbed by business and by careless pleasures. The churches +are always open, silently but eloquently inviting to devotion, and it +is much to be able to step aside at any moment from the temptations, +business, and cares of life into an atmosphere of seclusion and +religion. The solemn quiet of an old cathedral on a week day is +impressive from its very contrast to the tumult outside. Within its +venerable walls the light seems chastened, as it falls through stained +panes and paints the images of Christian saints and martyrs on the +pavement of the aisles. A half unwilling reverence is apt to stimulate +us on such an occasion, however skeptical we may be. + +The Sabbath in Havana breaks upon the citizens amid the ringing of +bells, the firing of cannon from the forts, the noise of trumpets, and +the roll of the drum. It is no day of physical rest here, and the +mechanical trades are uninterrupted. It is the chosen period for the +military reviews, the masked ball, and the bull-fight. The stores are +open as usual, the same cries are heard on the streets, and the +lottery tickets are vended on every corner. The individuals who devote +themselves to this business are in numbers like an army with banners. +They rend the air with their cries, promising good luck to all +purchasers, while they flourish their scissors with one hand, and +thrust the sheet of printed numbers in your face with the other, ready +to cut any desired ticket or portion of a ticket. The day proves +equally propitious for the omnipresent organ-grinder and his +ludicrously-dressed little monkey, à la Napoleon; the Chinese peddler; +the orange and banana dealer; and the universal cigarette purveyor. +Still, the rough Montero from the country, with his long line of +loaded mules or ponies, respectfully raises his broad Panama with one +hand while he makes the sign of the cross with the other as he passes +the church door. The churches of Havana look very old and shabby +compared with those of peninsular Spain, where the splendor of church +ornamentation reaches its acme. + +In and about the commercial part of the town, the out-door gambler +forms a conspicuous feature of the Sabbath, seated upon a cloth spread +upon the ground, and armed with cards, dice, cups, and other +instruments. With voluble tongue and expressive pantomime urging the +passer-by to try his luck, he meets with varying success. Many who are +drawn into the net are adroitly permitted to win a little, and +afterwards to lose much. Sailors on shore for a day's liberty are +profitable game for these thimble-riggers, as they are called with us. +Both Spaniards and Creoles patronize them, and occasionally a negro +tries his luck with a trifle. In open squares, or at the intersection +of several streets, one sometimes sees a carpet spread upon the +ground, upon which an athlete accompanied by a couple of expert boys, +dressed in high-colored tights ornamented with spangles, diverts the +throng by exhibiting gymnastics. At the close of the performance, a +young girl in a fancy dress and with long, flowing hair passes among +the spectators and gathers a few shillings. Not far away is observed +Punch and Judy in the height of a successful quarrel to the music of a +harp and a violin. The automatic contestants pound and pommel each +other after the conventional fashion. + +The city abounds in well-arranged squares, often ornamented by the +royal palm, always a figure of majesty and beauty, with here and there +a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel, +which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is +strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same +family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may +be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the +tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either +extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green, +contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light slate color. +It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a +bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as +though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts +great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found +dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups, +or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the +eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long +avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee +plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue. + +The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept +square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the +great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one +corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot +where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated +on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while. +The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime, +though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his +death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas +fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous +old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was +sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age +was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was +erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their +shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it +is opened but once a year to the public,--on the 16th of November, +which is the feast day of San Cristobal, when mass is celebrated in +honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of +Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings. + +This square is divided into neatly kept paths, and planted with +fragrant flowers, conspicuous among which were observed the white and +red camellias, while a grateful air of coolness was diffused by the +playing of a fountain into a broad basin, ornamented by a marble +statue of Ferdinand VII. The Creoles are passionately fond of music, +and this park used to be the headquarters of all out-door concerts. +Their favorite airs are waltzes and native dances, with not a little +of the Offenbach spirit in them. The guitar is the favorite domestic +musical instrument here, as in peninsular Spain, and both sexes are as +a rule clever performers upon it. Evening music in the open air is +always attractive, but nowhere is its influence more keenly felt than +under the mellow effulgence of tropical nights. Nowhere can we +conceive of a musical performance listened to with more relish and +appreciation than in the Plaza de Armas or the Parque de Isabella in +Havana. The latter place on the occasion of the concerts is the resort +of all classes. Here friends meet, flirtations are carried on, toilets +are displayed, and lovers woo. Even the humble classes are seen in +large numbers quietly strolling on the outer portions of the Plaza +listening to the fine performances of the band, and quietly enjoying +the music, "tamed and led by this enchantress still." The balmy nature +of the climate permits the ladies to dispense with shawls or wraps of +any sort; bonnets they very seldom wear, so that they sit in their +vehicles, or alighting appropriate the chairs arranged for the purpose +lining the broad central path, and thus appear in full evening dress, +bare arms, and necks supplemented by most elaborate coiffures. Even +the black lace mantilla, so commonly thrown over the head and +shoulders in the cities of Spain, is discarded of an evening on the +Plaza de Isabella. + +It was very amusing to sit here near the marble statue of the ex-queen +(which is, by the way, a wonderful likeness of Queen Victoria), where +the band, composed of sixty instrumental performers, discoursed +admirable music, and to observe young Cuba abroad, represented by boys +and girls of ten and twelve years dressed like young ladies and +gentlemen, sauntering arm in arm through the broad paths. These +children attend balls given by grown-up people, and are painted and +bedizened and decked out like their elders,--a singular fashion in +Cuban cities. It is true they not infrequently fall asleep on such +occasions in rocking-chairs and in odd corners, overcome by fatigue, +as the hours of festivity creep on towards the morning. Childhood is +ignored. Youth of a dozen years is introduced to the habits of people +thrice that age. We were sadly told, by one who is himself a parent, +that most children in the island but twelve years of age know the +delicate relations of the sexes as well as they would ever know them. +What else could be expected in an atmosphere so wretchedly immoral? +Small boys dressed in stovepipe hats and swallow-tail coats, and +little misses in long dresses with low necks look like mountebanks. + +Opposite the Plaza de Isabella, on the Tacon Theatre side of the +square, are situated the most fashionable cafés and restaurants of the +capital, where "life" commences at nine o'clock in the evening and +rages fast and furious until the small hours of the morning. In these +resorts, which are one blaze of light, every gas-burner reflected by +dozens of mirrors, the marble tables are all occupied by vivacious +patrons. Some are playing dominoes, some few are engaged at games of +chess, others are busy over checkers or cards, and all are gambling. +Even the lookers-on at the games freely stake their money on the +fortunes of the several players. The whole scene is one of noise and +confusion, fifty tongues giving voice at the same time. If a Spaniard +or Creole loses a dollar he gesticulates and argues about it as though +thousands were involved in the issue. These people represent all +classes. Some are in their shirt-sleeves, some roughly clothed, some +in full evening dress; Spaniards, Creoles, mulattoes, and occasionally +an unmistakable European. They drink often, but not strong liquors, +and one is surprised to hear coffee so often called for in place of +wine. The games are kept up until two or three o'clock in the morning. +Loitering about the doors beggars always form the shadow of the scene; +some lame, some blind, mostly negroes and coolies; now and then there +is seen among them an intelligent but sad white face, which looks +rather than utters its appeal. These are often the recipients of the +successful gambler's bounty. Now and again a lottery-ticket vender +comes in and makes the circuit of the tables, always disposing of more +or less chances, sometimes selling a whole ticket, price one doubloon, +or seventeen dollars. As we watch the scene a daintily dressed youth +with shining beaver lounges in, accompanied by one of the demi-monde +gayly dressed and sparkling with jewelry which betrays her want of +modesty. She is of the true Andalusian type, olive complexion, +coal-black hair with eyes to match, and long dark lashes; petite in +figure and youthful, but aged in experience. Bonnetless, her luxuriant +hair is set high upon her head, held by a square tortoise-shell comb, +and carelessly thrown off her forehead with a parting on one side. Be +sure some sad story underlies her career. She is of just that gypsy +cast that painters love to delineate. They sit down at a side table +and order ices, cake, and champagne. These are consumed amid jests and +laughter, the spurious champagne, at a fabulous cost, is drunk +merrily, the hours creep on, and the couple retire to give place to +others, after having furnished a picture of the fast, false life of +these brilliant, but dissipated haunts. + +Some of these cafés are more exclusive than others, where respectable +ladies and gentlemen can retire after the band has ceased its +performance, and enjoy the cooling influence of an ice. The Louvre, +just opposite the Plaza de Isabella and adjoining the Tacon Theatre, +is one of such. These establishments couple with their current evening +business that of the manufacture of choice preserves for domestic use +and also for export, the fruits of the island supplying the basis for +nearly a hundred varieties of fruit preserves, which find large sales +in our Northern cities and in Europe. + +In carnival week these cafés do an immense business; it is the harvest +of their year. People who can hardly afford three meals a day pinch +themselves and suffer much self-denial that they may have money to +spend in carnival week. The public masquerade balls, which then take +place, allure all classes. The celebrations of the occasion culminate +in a grand public masquerade ball given in the Tacon Theatre. The +floor of the parquette is temporarily raised to a level with the +boxes and the stage, the entire floor or lower part of the house being +converted into a grand ball-room. The boxes and galleries are thrown +open free to the public. The music, furnished by two military bands, +alternating in their performance, is kept up until broad daylight, +while the participants come and go as they please. A little after +midnight an organization called the comparzas comes upon the scene. It +is composed of men, boys, and women, all masked, who have practiced +for the occasion some emblematic dance to perform for their own and +the public amusement. The other dancers give way and the new-comers +perform, in harlequin fashion, their allotted parts. Towards morning a +large paper globe is suspended from the ceiling and lowered to within +a certain height from the floor. Blindfolded volunteers of both sexes, +furnished with sticks, are permitted to walk towards and try to hit +it. Scores fail, others just graze the globe of paper, all amid loud +laughter from the spectators. Finally some one hits the globe full and +fair, bringing down the contents amid vociferous applause. Then +commences a general scramble for the contents, consisting of bonbons, +toys, and fancy trinkets. + +The celebrated Tacon Theatre faces the Paseo de Isabella, and is built +on the corner of San Rafael Street. It is a capacious structure, but +extremely plain and unimpressive in its exterior appearance. It has +five tiers of boxes and a spacious parquette, the latter furnished +with separate arm-chair seats for six hundred persons. The entire +seating capacity of the house is a trifle over three thousand, and the +auditorium is of the horseshoe shape. The lattice-work finish before +the boxes is very light and graceful in effect, ornamented with gilt, +and so open as to display the dresses and pretty feet of the fair +occupants to the best advantage. The frescos are in good style, and +the ornamentation, without being excessive, is in excellent and +harmonious taste. A large, magnificent glass chandelier, lighted with +gas, and numerous smaller ones extending from the boxes give a +brilliant light to this elegant house, which is one of the largest +theatres in the world. The scene is a remarkable one when tier upon +tier is filled with gayly dressed ladies, powdered and rouged as Cuban +women are apt to be, in the most liberal manner. The parquette is +reserved for gentlemen, and when the audience is assembled forms a +striking contrast to the rest of the house, as they always appear in +dark evening dress, and between the acts put on their tall black +beaver hats. These audiences have their own special modes of +exhibiting appreciation or applause, when captivated by a prima +donna's or a danseuse's efforts to please them. At favorable moments +during the performance the artist is showered with bouquets; white +doves are set free from the boxes, bearing laudatory verses fastened +to their wings; gentlemen throw their hats upon the stage, and +sometimes even purses weighted with gold. Tiny balloons are started +with long streamers of colored ribbon attached; jewelry in the shape +of bracelets and rings is conveyed over the footlights; in short, +these Spaniards are sometimes extraordinarily demonstrative. A furore +has sometimes cost these caballeros large sums of money. But we are +describing the past rather than the immediate present, for the +scarcity of pecuniary means has put an end to nearly all such +extravagances. The Havanese are peculiar in their tastes. While Miss +Adelaide Phillips was more than once the recipient of extravagant +favors on the Tacon Theatre stage, Jenny Lind did not pay her +professional expenses when she sang there. + +The military are always in attendance in large numbers at the theatre, +as at all public gatherings in Cuba, their only perceptible use being +to stare the ladies out of countenance and to obstruct the +passageways. In front of the main entrance to the theatre is an open +area decorated with tropical plants and trees, where a group of the +crimson hibiscus was observed, presenting a gorgeous effect of color. +The other places of amusement in Havana, of a dramatic character, are +the Payret Theatre, very large, seating twenty-five hundred; the +Albisu Theatre, and the Circo, Teatro de Jané, this latter combining a +theatre with a circus. + +As a place of amusement and instruction combined we should be remiss +not to mention the Casino of Havana. It is carried on by an organized +society formed on the basis of a club and has, we were told, over one +hundred members. The Casino occupies a fine building, fronting Obispo +Street, and close to the parks. It supports a free school for teaching +the English and French languages and drawing. After some fifteen years +of successful existence the society has become one of the institutions +of the metropolis. The halls and apartments are large, lofty, and very +finely furnished with all domestic conveniences except sleeping +accommodations. Here dramatic entertainments are frequently given, +mostly by amateurs, and generally for charitable purposes. The main +ball-room of the Casino is handsomely decorated and is the scene of +occasional masked balls, after the true Madrid style, where many an +intrigue is consummated which does not always end without bloodshed. +It is the favorite resort of all the high officials of Havana, who +have within their possible reach too few social entertainments not to +make the most of those presented at the Casino. During the carnival +season the ball-room of the establishment is said to present, in the +form of nightly masquerade balls, scenes which for gayety and +picturesqueness cannot be surpassed in Europe. + +Old Havana is certainly eclipsed by the really fine broad streets and +the palatial buildings which have sprung up outside of her ancient +limits. In point of picturesqueness the old town has precedence. Near +where the Indian Paseo and the Plaza de Isabella II. join each other, +a portion of the old wall which once surrounded the city is still to +be seen, with its crumbling bastions and ivy-grown débris. Sufficient +is left to show that the wall was a remarkably substantial one and an +efficient defense against the modes of attack prevalent when it was +built. The Indian Paseo commences opposite the Campo de Marte, and is +so called from the large marble fountain dedicated to that aboriginal +idea. This elaborate structure was executed in Italy at large expense. +Its principal figure is an Indian maiden, allegorical of Havana, +supporting a shield bearing the arms of the city. These paseos are +admirably ornamented on either side by a continuous line of laurel +trees whose thick foliage gives admirable shade. On either side of the +long central promenade the well-paved streets are broad and handsome, +being ornamented with high buildings of a domestic and public +character and of good architectural effect. The Matanzas & Havana +Railroad depot is situated just opposite one end of the Campo de +Marte, its freight yard extending also along the Paseo for an entire +block, detracing much from the fine effect of the broad street. The +trains and noisy engines being thus brought into the midst of the +dwellings and business centre of the city render it very +objectionable. The guests of the Telegrafo Hotel can bear testimony as +to the nuisance thus created, being awakened at all sorts of +unreasonable hours by the engine bell and steam whistle. + +The Botanical Garden is situated about a mile from the city proper, +adjoining which are the attractive grounds of the Governor General's +country-house. Both are open to the public and richly repay a visit. +The Governor's grounds are shaded by a great variety of tropical trees +and flowers. Here was seen what is called the water rose, pink in +color and nearly double the size of our pond lily, recalling the +Egyptian lotus, to which family it would seem it must belong. +Altogether, the place is a wilderness of blossoms, composed of exotic +and native flowers. There is also an interesting aviary to be seen +here, and a small artificial lake is covered with curious web-footed +birds and brilliant-feathered ducks. The gardens seem to be neglected, +but they are very lovely in their native luxuriance. Dead wood and +decaying leaves are always a concomitant of such gardens in the low +latitudes. If the roses and heliotropes are in full bloom, some other +flowering shrub alongside is taking its rest and looks rusty, so that +the whole garden is never in a glow of beauty at one time, as is the +case with us in June. The noble alley of palms, the great variety of +trees, blossoms, and shrubs, the music of the fountains, and the +tropical flavor permeating everything were all in the harmony of +languid beauty. The coral tree, that lovely freak of vegetation, was +in bloom, its small but graceful stem, seven or eight feet in height, +being topped above the gracefully pendent leaves with a bit of +vegetable coral of deepest red, and in the form of the sea growth from +which it takes its name. The star cactus was in full flower, the +scarlet buds starting out from the flat surface of the thick leaves +after a queer and original fashion. The bread-fruit tree, with its +large, melon-like product, hung heavy with the nourishing esculent. +The Carolina tree, with gorgeous blossoms like military pompons, +blazed here and there, overshadowing the large, pure white, and +beautiful campanile, with hanging flowers, like metallic bells, after +which the plant is named. Here too was a great variety of the scarlet +hibiscus and the garland of night (galan de noche), which grows like a +young palm to eight or nine feet, throwing out from the centre-of its +drooping foliage a cluster of brown blossoms tipped with white, shaped +like a mammoth bunch of grapes. It blooms at night and is fragrant +only by moon and starlight. Cuba presents an inexhaustible field for +the botanist, and in its wilder portions recalls the island of Ceylon +in the Indian Ocean. As Ceylon is called the pearl of India so is Cuba +the pearl of the Antilles. + +To reach the Governor's Garden one turns west from the Campo de Marte +and takes the Calzada de la Reina, which followed about a mile in a +straight line becomes the Paseo de Tacon, really but a continuation of +the former street, commencing at the statue of Carlos III., a colossal +monument placed in the middle of the broad driveway. This Paseo forms +the favorite evening drive of the citizens, where the ladies in +victorias and the gentlemen either as equestrians or on foot pass and +repass each other, gayly saluting, the ladies with a coquettish +flourish of the fan, and the gentlemen with a peculiar wave of the +hand. It is in fact the Champs Elysées of Havana, but the road is +sadly out of repair and as dusty as an ash-pit. + +The Alameda--every large Spanish city has a spot so designated--skirts +the shore of the harbor on the city side, near the south end of +Oficios Street, and is a favorite resort for promenaders at the +evening hour. Here a refreshing coolness is breathed from off the sea. +This Alameda de Paula might be a continuation of the Neapolitan +Chiaja. With characteristics quite different, still these shores +constantly remind one of the Mediterranean, Sorrento, Amalfi, and +Capri, recalling the shadows which daily creep up the heights of San +Elmo and disappear with the setting sun behind the orange groves. +Sometimes it would seem to be the grand problem of humanity, why the +loveliest regions of the earth and the softest climates should be +apportioned to the share of slaves and despots. + +The cathedral of Havana, on Empedrado Street, is a structure of much +interest, its rude pillared front of defaced and moss-grown stone +plainly telling of the wear of time. The two lofty towers are hung +with many bells, which daily call with their brazen tongues to matins +and vespers. Some of these bells are very ancient. The church is not +elaborately ornamented,--it rather strikes one with its unusual +plainness. It contains a few oil paintings of moderate merit, and also +the tomb where the ashes of Columbus so long reposed. All that is +visible of this tomb, which is on the right of the altar, is a marble +tablet six or eight feet square, upon which, in high relief, is a bust +of the great discoverer. As a work of art, the less said of this +effigy the better. Beneath the image is an inscription sufficiently +bombastic and Spanish in tone, but therein we observed no mention was +made of the chains and imprisonment with which an ungrateful country +rewarded this man whom history so delights to honor. It will be +remembered that Columbus died at Valladolid in 1506. In 1513 his +remains were transferred to Seville, preparatory to their being sent, +as desired in his will, to St. Domingo, to which city they were +removed in 1536. When that island was ceded to France, they were +brought with great pomp to Havana in a national ship (January 15, +1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high +authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and +are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this +association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet +thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty +dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The +high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry +mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The +stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was +annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was +observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend +in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population +present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from +curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de +la Concepcion. + +All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains +the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have +seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that +this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up +into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive +view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before +a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here +in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the +practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call +your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions: +one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another +is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these +bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has +caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a +danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a +victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as +merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many +years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to +vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such +things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the +sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for +priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgetting many saintly +garments wrought in gold and studded with precious stones. Perhaps you +will think, as we did, that such things are but tinsel before Him whom +they are supposed to honor. Such dazzling paraphernalia may attract +the ignorant or the thoughtless--may make followers, but not +converts. Conviction is not the child of fancy, but of judgment. + +In an anteroom at the left of the altar there are also to be seen +utensils of silver and gold, with many costly ornaments for use before +the altar on special church occasions. One of these is a triumph of +delicate workmanship and of the silversmith's art. It is in the form +of a Gothic tower of very elaborate and artistic design, composed of +solid silver, ornamented with gold and precious stones. One regards +this thoroughly useless disposal of money with the thought that the +articles were better sold and the proceeds bestowed in worthy charity. +It would then fulfill a far more Christian purpose than that of adding +glitter to church pomp and ceremony. + +To witness the observance of Holy Week, commencing with Palm Sunday, +in Havana, one would be impressed with a conviction that the people +were at heart devout Roman Catholics. The occasion is solemnly +observed. On Sunday the old cathedral is crowded by people who come to +obtain branches of holy palm from the priests. The old bell-ringer +becomes an important agent of the ceremonies, and the solemn spirit of +the occasion seems to imbue all classes of the Havanese. On Holy +Thursday, just before midday, the bells of all the churches cease to +ring, and every vehicle in the city disappears from the streets as if +by magic. The garrison marches through the principal thoroughfares in +silence, with measured tread and arms reversed. The national flags +upon the shipping, and on all the forts from Moro to the Castillo del +Principe, are displayed at half mast. The cathedral and the churches +are draped in mourning. On Friday, the effigy of our Saviour's body +is carried in solemn procession, men and priests marching with heads +uncovered, and devout women of the common classes, especially colored +ones, kneeling in the street as it passes. On Saturday, at ten o'clock +in the morning, the old bell-ringer suddenly starts a merry peal from +the cathedral tower--the bells of La Merced, San Agustin, Santa Clara, +and Santa Cataline follow; the town awakens to gayety as from a +lethargic sleep. Whites and negroes rush through the streets like mad; +vehicles of all sorts again make their appearance, the forts and +national ships are dressed in holiday flags, and the town is shaken +with reiterated salutes from a hundred cannons. + +Military mass, as performed within the cathedral, seemed more like a +theatrical show than a solemn religious service. On the occasion +referred to, the congregation as usual was sparse, and consisted +almost exclusively of women, who seem to do penance for both sexes in +Cuba. The military band which led the column of infantry marched in, +playing a quick operatic air, deploying to one side for the soldiery +to pass towards the altar. The time-keeping steps of the soldiery upon +the marble floor mingled with drum, fife, and organ. Through all this, +one caught now and then the monotonous voice of a shaven-headed +priest, reciting his prescribed part at the altar, kneeling and +reading at intervals. The busy censer boys in white gowns; the flaring +candles casting long shadows athwart the high altar; the files of +soldiers kneeling and rising at the tap of the drum; the atmosphere +clouded with the fumes of burning incense,--all combined to make up a +singularly dramatic picture. The gross mummery witnessed at the temple +of Buddha in Ceylon differed only in form, scarcely in degree. + +The wealth of the churches of the monks in the island was formerly +proverbial, but of late the rich perquisites which the priests were so +long permitted to extort from the credulous public have been diverted +so as to flow into the coffers of the crown. A military depotism +brooks no rival in authority. The priests at one time possessed large +tracts of land in Cuba, and their revenue therefrom, especially when +they were improved as sugar plantations, was very large. These lands +have all been confiscated by the government, and with the loss of +their property the power of the monks has declined and their numbers +have also diminished. Still the liberty of public worship is denied to +all save Roman Catholics. Since the suppression of monastic +institutions, some of the convents have been utilized for hospitals, +government storehouses, and other public offices in Havana. There are +some manifest incongruities that suggest themselves as existing +between Church and state upon the island. For instance, the Church +recognizes the unity of all races and even permits marriage between +all, but here steps in the civil law of Cuba and prohibits marriage +between white persons and those having any taint of negro blood. In +consequence of this,--nature always asserting herself regardless of +conventionalities,--a quasi family arrangement often exists between +white men and mulatto or quadroon women, whereby the children are +recognized as legitimate. But should either party come under the +discipline of the Church, the relationship must terminate. Again, as +is perfectly well known, many of the priests, under a thin disguise, +lead domestic lives, where a family of children exist under the care +of a single mother, who is debarred from the honest name of wife by +the laws of celibacy which are stringently held as the inexorable +rule of the Church. + +If the priesthood keep from cock-fighting and gambling, says a late +writer on the subject, notwithstanding many other departures from +propriety, they are considered respectable. Can there be any wonder +that the masses of men in Cuba recognize no religious obligations, +since none save Roman Catholicism is tolerated, and that, through its +priesthood, is so disgraced? + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Array. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortége. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. + + +The Inquisition, as it regards the Church of Rome, is suppressed in +Cuba, but the political inquisition, as exercised by the government on +the island, is even more diabolical than that of the former Jesuitical +organization, because it is more secret in its murderous deeds, not +one half of the horrors of which will ever be publicly known. Moro +Castle is full of political prisoners, who are thinned out by +executions, starvation, and hardships generally, from day to day, only +to make room for fresh victims. He who enters those grim portals +leaves all hope behind. Political trials there are none, but of +political arrests there are endless numbers. The life of every citizen +is at the disposal of the Captain-General. If a respectable person is +arrested, as one suspected of animosity towards the government, he +simply disappears. His friends dare not press his defense, or inquire +too closely as to his case, lest they, too, should be incarcerated on +suspicion, never again to regain their liberty. A maxim of Spanish law +is that every accused person is guilty, until he proves himself +innocent! As a large majority of the people, in their hearts, +sympathize with the revolutionists, and are revolutionists in secret, +they are liable to say or to do some trifling thing unwittingly, upon +which the lynx-eyed officials seize as evidence of guilt, and their +arrest follows. What fearful stories the dungeons of Moro could reveal +had they tongue with which to speak! + +Obispo and O'Riley streets are the principal shopping thoroughfares of +the metropolis, containing many fine stores for the sale of dry goods, +millinery, china, glassware, and jewelry. These shops are generally +quite open in front. Standing at the end, and looking along either of +these thoroughfares, one gets a curious perspective view. The +party-colored awnings often stretch entirely across the narrow +streets, reminding one of a similar effect in Canton, where straw +matting takes the place of canvas, forming a sort of open marquee. The +queer names adopted for the stores never fail to afford a theme of +amusement; the drawling cries of the fruit-dealers and peripatetic +tradesmen giving an added interest. The merchant in Havana does not +designate his establishment by placing his own name upon his sign, but +adopts some fancy title, such as Diana, America, The Star, Virtue, The +Golden Lion, and so on, which titles are paraded in gilt letters over +the door. The Spanish people are always prodigal in names, making the +sun, moon and stars, gods and goddesses, all do duty in designating +their stores, villas, and plantations. Nearly every town on the island +is named after some apostle or saint. The tradesmen are thorough Jews +in their style of dealing with the public, and no one thinks of paying +them the price which they first demand for an article. It is their +practice in naming a price to make allowance for reduction; they +expect to be bargained with, or cheapened at least one half. The +ladies commonly make their purchases late in the afternoon or evening, +stopping in their victorias at the doors of the shops, from whence the +articles they desire are brought by the shopmen and deftly displayed +on the street. When lighted up at night the stores are really +brilliant and attractive, presenting quite a holiday appearance; but +customers are sadly wanting in these days of business depression. "I +have been compelled to dismiss my salesmen and do their work myself," +said a dry-goods merchant to us; "we dare not give credit, and few +persons have cash to spare in these times." + +One of the principal causes of the present bankrupt condition of the +people of Cuba is the critical period of transition through which the +island is passing from slave to free labor; besides which there is the +exhaustion consequent upon years of civil war and a succession of bad +crops. Labor is becoming dearer and sugar cheaper. The Spaniards are +slow to adopt labor-saving machinery, or new ideas of any sort, and +those not already supplied have neither capital nor credit with which +to procure the new machinery for sugar-making. The enormous production +of European beet-sugar has cut off all Continental demand for their +staple, and has in some degree superseded its use in America. +Brigandage is on the increase, as poverty and want of legitimate +employment prevail. Money, when it can be borrowed at all, is at a +ruinous interest. The army of office-holders still manage to extort +considerable sums in the aggregate from the people, under the guise of +necessary taxes. Financial ruin stares all in the face. It is a sad +thing to say, but only too true, that among people heretofore +considered above suspicion in commercial transactions great dishonesty +prevails, pecuniary distress and lack of credit driving men, once in +good standing, to defraud their creditors at home and abroad. Estates +and plantations are not only heavily mortgaged, but the prospective +crops are in the same condition, in many cases. In former prosperous +years the planters have been lavish spenders of money, ever ready to +use their credit to the full extent, until their interest account has +consumed their principal. The expensive habits acquired under the +promptings of large profits and a sure market are difficult to +overcome, and people who never anticipated the present state of +affairs are now forced to exercise economy and self-denial. Cuban +planters and their families, in years past, came to our most +fashionable watering-places decked with jewels of almost fabulous +value, and they lavished gold like water; most of these individuals +considered themselves to be rich beyond the chances of fortune. Their +profuse style of living was a source of envy; their liberality to +landlords and to servants was demoralizing, as it regarded the tariff +of hotel prices for more steady-going people. Thousands of human +beings were yielding their enforced labor to fill these spendthrifts' +purses, and sugar was king. The picture has its reverse. Civil war has +supervened, the slaves are being freed, sugar is no longer a bonanza, +and the rich man of yesterday is the bankrupt of to-day. Truly riches +have wings. + +Spain keeps a large and effective force of soldiers upon the +island,--an army out of all proportion in numbers to the territory or +people she holds in subjection. The present military force must +number some forty thousand, rank and file, and the civil department +fully equals the army in number; and all are home Spaniards. A large +portion of the military are kept in the eastern department of the +island, which is and has ever been the locality where revolutionary +outbreaks occur. Eighty per cent, of all the soldiers ever sent to +Cuba have perished there! It is as Castelar once pronounced the island +to be, in the Cortes at Madrid, namely, the Campo Santo of the Spanish +army. Exposure, a miserable commissariat, the climate, and insurgent +bullets combine to thin the ranks of the army like a raging +pestilence. We were informed by a responsible party that twenty-five +per cent, of the newly-arrived soldiers died in their first year, +during what is called their acclimation. Foreigners who visit Cuba for +business or pleasure do so at the most favorable season; they are not +subjected to hardships nor exposed in malarial districts. The +soldiers, on the contrary, are sent indiscriminately into the fever +districts at the worst season, besides being called upon to endure +hardships, all the time, which predispose them to fatal diseases. + +There are known to be organized juntas of revolutionists at Key West, +Florida, in Hayti, and also in New York city, whose designs upon the +Cuban government keep the authorities on the island in a state of +chronic alarm. A revolutionary spirit is felt to be all the while +smouldering in the hearts of this oppressed people, and hence the +tyrannous espionage, and the cruelty exercised towards suspected +persons. So enormous are the expenses, military and civil, which are +required to sustain the government, under these circumstances, that +Cuba to-day, notwithstanding the heavy taxes extorted from her +populace, is an annual expense to the throne. Formerly the snug sum of +seven or eight millions of dollars was the yearly contribution which +the island made to the royal treasury, after paying local army, navy, +and civil expenses. This handsome sum was over and above the pickings +and stealings of the venal officials. As to the Cuban sympathizers at +Key West, Florida, a recent visit to that port, just opposite to the +island on the hither side of the Gulf Stream, showed us that they +formed a large proportion of the population of that thrifty American +town. On a day which was the anniversary of some patriotic occasion +relating to the island, hundreds of Cuban flags (the single star of +free Cuba) were seen displayed upon the dwellings and public places. +There are believed to be two thousand Creoles residing here, who have +either been expelled from the island for political reasons, or who +have escaped from thence as suspected patriots. These people are very +generally engaged in the manufacture of the well-known Key West +cigars. + +The Spanish army is governed with an iron hand. Military law knows no +mercy, and it is always more or less a lapse into barbarism where it +takes precedence. The ranks are filled by conscription in Spain, and +when the men first arrive at Havana they are the rawest recruits +imaginable. Soldiers who have been doing garrison duty are sent inland +to fill the decimated ranks of various stations, and room is thus made +for the recruits, who are at once put to work, enduring a course of +severe discipline and drill. They land from the transports, many of +them, hatless, barefooted, and in a filthy condition, with scarcely a +whole garment among a regiment of them. The writer could hardly +believe, on witnessing the scene, that they were not a set of +criminals being transported for penal servitude. Fatigue dresses no +doubt awaited them at the barracks, and after a while they would be +served with a cheap uniform, coarse shoes, and straw hats. They are +like sheep being driven to the shambles, and are quite as helpless. +Twenty-five per cent, and upwards of these recruits are usually under +the sod before the close of a twelve-month! + +Sometimes the hardship they have to endure breeds rebellion among +them, but woe betide those who commit any overt act, or become leaders +of any organized attempt to obtain justice. The service requires +frequent victims as examples to enforce the rigid discipline. The +punishment by the garrote is a common resort. It is a machine +contrived to choke the victim to death without suspending him in the +air. At the same time it is fatal in another way, namely, by severing +the spinal column just below its connection with the brain. The +condemned man is placed upon a chair fixed on a platform, leaning his +head and neck back into a sort of iron yoke or frame prepared to +receive it. Here an iron collar is clasped about the throat. At the +appointed moment a screw is suddenly turned by the executioner, +stationed behind the condemned, and instantaneous death follows. This +would seem to be more merciful than hanging, whereby death is produced +by the lingering process of suffocation, to say nothing of the many +mishaps which so often occur upon the gallows. This mode of punishment +is looked upon by the army as a disgrace, and they much prefer the +legitimate death of a soldier, which is to fall by the bullets of his +comrades when condemned to die. + +The writer witnessed one of these military executions, early on a +clear April morning, which took place in the rear of the barracks near +La Punta. It was a trying experience, and recalled to mind the +execution of the mulatto poet and patriot, Valdez, which had occurred +a few years before in the Plaza at Matanzas. It was a sight to chill +the blood even under a tropical sun. A soldier of the line was to be +shot for some act of insubordination against the stringent rules of +the army, and that the punishment might prove a forcible example to +his comrades the battalion to which he belonged was drawn up on parade +to witness the cruel scene. The immediate file of twelve men to which +the victim had belonged were supplied with muskets by their officer, +and we were told that, according to custom, one musket was left +without ball, so that each one might hope that his was not the hand to +slay his former comrade. A sense of mercy would still lead them all to +aim faithfully, so that lingering pain might be avoided. + +The order was given: the bright morning sun shone like living fire +along the polished barrels of the guns, as the fatal muzzles all +ranged in point at the body of the condemned. "Fire!" said the +commanding officer. A quick, rattling report followed, accompanied by +a thin cloud of smoke, which was at once dispersed by the sea breeze, +showing the still upright form of the victim. Though wounded in many +places, no vital spot had been touched, nor did he fall until the +sergeant, at a sign from his officer, advanced with a reserved musket, +and quickly blew out his brains! His body was removed. The troops were +formed into column, the band struck up a lively air, and thus was a +human being launched into eternity. + +Few current matters strike the stranger as being more peculiar than +the Cuban milkman's mode of supplying the required aliment to his town +customers. He has no cart bearing shining cans, they in turn filled +with milk, or with what purports to be milk; his mode is direct, and +admits of no question as to purity. Driving his sober kine from door +to door, he deliberately milks then and there just the quantity +required by each customer, delivers it, and drives on to the next. The +patient animal becomes as familiar with the residences of her master's +customers as he is himself, and stops unbidden, at regular intervals, +before the proper doors, often followed by a pretty little calf, which +amuses itself by gazing enviously at the process, being prevented from +interfering by a leather muzzle. Sometimes the flow of milk is checked +by an effort of the animal herself, when she seems to realize that the +calf is not getting its share of nourishment. The driver then promptly +brings the calf to the mother's side, and removes the muzzle long +enough to give the little one a brief chance. The cow freely yields +her milk while the calf is close to her, and the milkman, muzzling the +calf, adroitly milks into his measure. The same mode is adopted in +India and the south of Spain. There are at least two good reasons for +delivering milk in hot climates after this fashion. First, there can +be no adulteration of the article; and second, it is sure to be fresh +and sweet. This last is a special desideratum in a climate where ice +is an expensive luxury, and the difficulty of keeping milk from +becoming acid is very great. The effect upon the cow is by no means +salutary, causing the animal to produce much less in quantity than +when milked clean at regularly fixed hours, as with us. Goats are +often driven about for the same purpose and used in the same manner. +It was a surprise not to see more of these animals in Cuba, a country +especially adapted to them. Cows thrive best upon grass, of which +there is comparatively little in the tropics,--vegetation runs to +larger development; but goats eat anything green, and do well nearly +anywhere. It is a singular fact that sheep transported to this climate +cease gradually to produce wool. After three or four generations they +grow only a simple covering, more like hair than wool, and resemble +goats rather than sheep. + +Glass is scarcely known in Cuban windows; the glazier has yet to make +his début in Havana. The most pretentious as well as the humblest of +the town-houses have the broad, high, projecting window, reaching from +floor to ceiling, secured only by heavy horizontal iron bars, +prison-like in effect, through which, as one passes along the narrow +streets, it is nearly impossible to avoid glancing in upon domestic +scenes that frequently exhibit the female portion of the family en +déshabillé. Sometimes a loose lace curtain intervenes, but even this +is unusual, the freest circulation of fresh air being quite necessary. +The eye penetrates the whole interior of domestic life, as at Yokohama +or Tokio. Indeed, the manners of the female occupants seem to court +this attention from without, coming freely as they do to the windows +to chat with passers-by. Once inside of these dwelling-houses there +are no doors, curtains alone shutting off the communication between +chambers, sitting-rooms, and corridors. These curtains, when not +looped up, are sufficient to keep out persons of the household or +strangers, it being the custom always to speak, in place of knocking, +before passing a curtain; but the little naked negro children, male +and female, creep under these curtains without restraint, while +parrots, pigeons, and fowls generally make common use of all nooks and +corners of the house. Doors might keep these out of one's room, but +curtains do not. The division walls between the apartments in private +houses, like those in the hotels, often reach but two thirds of the +way up to the walls, thus affording free circulation of air, but +rendering privacy impossible. One reason why the Cubans all possess +such broad expanded chests is doubtless owing to the fact that their +lungs find free action at all times. They live, as it were, in the +open air. The effect of this upon strangers is seen and felt, +producing a sense of physical exhilaration, fine spirits, and a good +appetite. It would be impossible to live in a dwelling-house built in +our close, secure style, if it were placed in the city of Havana. The +laundress takes possession of the roof of the house during the day, +but it is the place of social gathering at night, when the family and +their guests enjoy the sea-breeze which sweeps in from the Gulf of +Mexico. On a clear, bright moonlight night the effect is very striking +as one looks across the house-tops, nearly all being upon a level. +Many cheerful circles are gathered here and there, some dancing to the +notes of a guitar, some singing, and others engaged in quiet games. +Merry peals of laughter come from one direction and another, telling +of light and thoughtless hearts among the family groups. Occasionally +there is borne along the range of roofs the swelling but distant +strains of the military band playing in the Plaza de Isabella, while +the moon looks calmly down from a sky whose intensely blue vault is +only broken by stars. + +The cemetery, or Campo Santo, of Havana is situated about three miles +outside of the city. A high wall incloses the grounds, in which +oven-like niches are prepared for the reception of the coffins +containing the bodies of the wealthy residents, while the poor are +thrown into shallow graves, often several bodies together in a long +trench, negroes and whites, without a coffin of any sort. Upon them is +thrown quicklime to promote rapid decomposition. The cremation which +forms the mode of disposing of the bodies of the deceased as practiced +in India is far less objectionable. + +The funeral cortége is unique in Havana. The hearse, drawn by four +black horses, is gilded and decked like a car of Juggernaut, and +driven by a flunkey in a cocked hat covered with gold braid, a scarlet +coat alive with brass buttons and gilt ornaments, and top boots which, +as he sits, reach half-way to his chin. This individual flourishes a +whip like a fishing-pole, and is evidently very proud of his position. +Beside the hearse walk six hired mourners on either side, dressed in +black, with cocked hats and swallow-tail coats. Fifteen or twenty +victorias follow, containing only male mourners. The driver in +scarlet, the twelve swallow-tails in black, and the occupants of the +victorias each and all are smoking cigars as though their lives +depended upon the successful operation. And so the cortége files into +the Campo Santo. + +Not far from La Punta there is a structure, protected from the public +gaze by a high wall, where the slaves of either sex belonging to the +citizens of Havana are brought for punishment. Within are a series of +whipping-posts, to which these poor creatures are bound before +applying the lash to their bare bodies. The sight of this fiendish +procedure is cut off from the public, but more than one person has +told us of having heard the agonizing cries of the victims. And yet +there are people who will tell us these poor creatures are far better +off than when in their native country. One slave-owner said it was +necessary to make an example of some member of all large households of +slaves each month, in order to keep them under discipline! Another +said, "I never whip my slaves; it may be necessary upon a plantation, +but not in domestic circles in town. When they have incurred my +displeasure, they are deprived of some small creature comfort, or +denied certain liberties, which punishment seems to answer every +object." So it will be seen that all slave-holders are not cruel. Some +seem as judicious and reasonable as is possible under the miserable +system of slavery. + +Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of +the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in +what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits +of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded +the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron +fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides +was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square +pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north, +Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east +side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon. +His administration has been more praised and more censured than that +of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This Campo de +Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes +generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious +walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have +been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and +pleasure-ground. + +Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in +Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject, +doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general +reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel +Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to +be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being +opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke +English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed +the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars +per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table +fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish +was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one +desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather +than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as +being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but +little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously +offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in +summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary +rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in +peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of +Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who +have chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for +instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no +use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was +thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by +the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet +accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse. +There is the San Carlos Hotel, near the wharves, which is more of a +family than a travelers' resort; the Hotel Pasaje, in Prado Street, +quite central; Hotel Europe, in La Plaza de San Francisco; and Hotels +Central and Ingleterra: the last two are opposite the Plaza de +Isabella, and are in the midst of noise and gayety. Arrangements can +be made at any of these houses for board by the day, or on the +European plan; all have restaurants. + +There are some very attractive summer resorts in the environs of the +city, one of the nearest and prettiest of which is El Cerro (the +hill), one league from town. It has a number of remarkably pleasant +country-seats, some of which have extensive gardens, rivaling that of +the Captain-General in extent. But to reach Cerro one has to drive +over a road which is in such want of repair as to be dangerous, +gullied by the rains, and exhibiting holes two feet deep, liable to +break the horses' legs and the wheels of the vehicles. Here is a road, +close to Havana, with stones weighing hundreds of pounds on the +surface, in the very wheel-tracks. Handsome hedges of the wild pine, +the aloe, and the Spanish bayonet line the road, where an occasional +royal palm, the emblem of majesty, stands alone, adding grandeur to +all the surroundings. If you drive out to Cerro, put on a linen +duster; otherwise you will be likely to come back looking like a +miller's apprentice. Not far beyond Cerro there lies some beautiful +country, reached by the same miserable road. Puentes Grandes, a small +village near the falls of the Almendares River, is but two miles +further north than Cerro, and adjoining this place, a couple of miles +further, is a small, picturesque village called Ceiba, from the +abundance of that species of tree which once flourished there. These +two places have some interesting country residences, where the +wealthiest citizens of Havana spend their summers. The village of +Quemados is also in this immediate neighborhood, about a couple of +leagues from town; here is situated the Havana Hippodrome, where +horse-races take place in the winter season. We must not forget to +mention Vedado, on the seashore, whither the Havanese drive oftenest +on Sundays; it is also connected with the city by steam-cars and +omnibus. There are some fine villas here, and it is quite a Cuban +watering-place, affording excellent bathing facilities. Vedado has +wide streets, and, after the city, seems to be remarkably clean and +neat. + +The Bishop's Garden, so called because some half century since it was +the residence of the Bishop of Havana, is about four miles from the +city, on the line of the Marianao railroad. It must have been a +delightful place when in its prime and properly cared for; even now, +in its ruins, it is extremely interesting. There are a score, more or +less, of broken, moss-grown statues, stone balustrades, and stone +capitals lying among the luxuriant vegetation, indicating what was +once here. Its alleys of palms, over two hundred years in age, the +thrifty almond-trees, and the gaudy-colored piñons, with their +honeysuckle-like bloom, delight the eye. The flamboyant absolutely +blazed in its gorgeous flowers, like ruddy flames, all over the +grounds. The remarkable fan-palm spread out its branches like a +peacock's tail, screening vistas here and there. Through these grounds +flows a small swift stream, which has its rise in the mountains some +miles inland, its bright and sparkling waters imparting an added +beauty to the place. By simple irrigating means this stream is made to +fertilize a considerable tract of land used as vegetable gardens, +lying between Tulipan and Havana. The Bishop's Garden still contains +large stone basins for swimming purposes, cascades, fountains, and +miniature lakes, all rendered possible by means of this small, clear, +deep river. The neglected place is sadly suggestive of decay, with its +moss-covered paths, tangled undergrowth, and untrimmed foliage. +Nothing, however, can mar the glory of the grand immemorial palms. + +The town of Tulipan, in which is the Bishop's Garden, is formed of +neat and pleasant residences of citizens desiring to escape the bustle +and closeness of the city. The houses are half European or American in +their architecture, modified to suit the climate. Here the American +Consul-General has a delightfully chosen home, surrounded by pleasant +shade, and characterized by lofty, cool apartments; with bright, snowy +marble floors, plenty of space, and perfect ventilation. Mr. Williams +is a gentleman unusually well fitted for the responsible position he +fills, having been a resident of Cuba for many years, and speaking the +language like a native. In his intensely patriotic sentiments he is a +typical American. It is not out of place for us to acknowledge here +our indebtedness to him for much important information relating to +the island. + +The most celebrated mineral springs in Cuba are to be found at San +Diego, where there are hot sulphur waters, springs bubbling +ceaselessly from the earth, and for which great virtues are claimed. +The springs are situated west of Havana, between thirty and forty +leagues, at the base of the southern slope of the mountains. These +waters are freely drank, as well as bathed in, and are highly charged +with sulphureted hydrogen, and contain sulphate of lime and carbonate +of magnesia. There are some diseases of women for which the San Diego +waters are considered to be a specific, and remarkable cures are +authenticated. Rheumatism and skin diseases are specially treated by +the local physician. There is a very fair hotel at San Diego, located +near the baths, and many Americans speak warmly in praise of the place +as a health resort. + +Next to the springs of San Diego, those of Madruga are notable, +situated between Matanzas and Havana, and which can be reached by +rail. The character of these springs is very similar to those of San +Diego, though of lower temperature. They are used both for bathing and +for drinking. Madruga is more easily accessible from the metropolis +than is San Diego. There is also a good physician resident in the +village. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. + + +The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and +quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even +excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of +Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The +scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes +indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only +procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a +distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from +Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was +through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication +was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends +on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them, +until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers. + +The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of +Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have +never seen equaled elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris +colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is +ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are +virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and +double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be +measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical +ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as +ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to +the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much +used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being +curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors +which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was +closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited +by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if +reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple. +Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by +alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a +dull, lustreless gray. + +The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table +extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches +resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus +insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in +the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the +large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block +from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh +sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies. + +The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name +the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the +government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to +pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The +boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the +government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine +lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but +even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost +precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the +Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the +stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting +for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long +suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have +learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make +no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels. + +The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship +of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by +way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the +reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement. + +One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that +of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent +individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a +notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring +and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the +pretentious title of King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a +fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any +other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters +to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes +extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans. +With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately +imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even +that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and +to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said +to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having +been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto. +His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have +given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed +a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His +masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of +him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise +and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies +or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired. +Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends +upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is +known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally +turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more +profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to +be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even +to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity, +being stimulated by the excessive and unreasonable excise duties +imposed upon the necessities of life. + +When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a +very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal +authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were +practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a +contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in +broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of +the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even +in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on +in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a +determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously +about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent +hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing +their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and +dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first +moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of +smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with +life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and +day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to +little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was +only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the +contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials. +The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely +defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws +failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want +of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties among the shoals +frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was +offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as +pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was +offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be +the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the +authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken +that those who were most interested should be made aware of their +purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too +much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered +to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign +punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The +government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object. + +It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months +subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred. +Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of +the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the +Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening +in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music, +had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and +found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the +stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the +tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between +the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though +bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their +part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure, +wrapped in a half military cloak, might have been observed watching +the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After +observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other +face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes +of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard, +the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without +being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manoeuvre, +requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment +the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a +bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the +shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed. + +The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the +gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the +Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a +perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at +the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the +stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as +though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The +drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some +regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered +the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a +large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged +in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised +satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the +new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak, +tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the +perspiration from his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise +and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:-- + +"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?" + +"One who has important information to impart to the government," was +the quiet reply. + +"But why seek this manner of audience?" + +"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear." + +"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?" + +"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency." + +"But I do mind it very seriously." + +"It can be explained by and by." + +"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your +business here?" + +"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any +information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger. +"Is it not so?" + +"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to +say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly." + +"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise +I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate." + +"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"-- + +"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn +state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"-- + +"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon." + +"True, but"-- + +"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward +involves unconditional pardon to the informant." + +"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the +leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti." + +"Ay." + +"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make." + +"Speak, then." + +"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will +grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you +require?" + +"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor. + +"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have +been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?" + +"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently. + +"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply. + +"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered +the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this +precaution. + +"Even if I were a leader among these men?" + +The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man +before him a searching glance, then said:-- + +"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot +our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you +shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card." + +"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully +trust these words, else I should not have ventured here." + +"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious," +continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from +his seat. + +"It is well. I will speak without further parley. The man for whom you +have offered the largest reward--ay, dead or alive--is before you!" + +"And you are"-- + +"Captain Marti!" + +Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some +lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively +cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his +right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not +unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of +similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the +table, saying:-- + +"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the +future, not fighting." + +"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of +thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that, +provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law +demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to +secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added. + +"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply. + +"We understand each other then." + +Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a +verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after, +the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement, +with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the +circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers. + +Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the +scene which we have described, then, summoning the officer of the +guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved +and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not +made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been +condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid. + +On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay +under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost +activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of +the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully +did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among +the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he +was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage +places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores +were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels +were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one +of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the +would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a +rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few +hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but +still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied +the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous +became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon +was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the +ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look +very deeply into the business, and they believed that Marti had +really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him +to his presence and said to Marti:-- + +"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am +prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and +unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark +the word _past_ offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new +disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as +though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an +order upon the treasury for the sum"-- + +"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back, +and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward. + +"What does this mean?" asked Tacon. + +"Permit me to explain, Excellency." + +"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor. + +"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to +the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal." + +"Speak out. Let us know what it is." + +"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the +money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the +coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with +fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply +compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense, +which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of +twenty-five years shall revert to the government." + +"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the +Governor. + +"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing +to leave. + +"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably +accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought." + +As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw +that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered +that he should always have the man under his control, and so the +proposal was finally accepted and confirmed. + +The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this +extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they +were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and +realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old +business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the +largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the +article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired +for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the +government. + +Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to +see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him +that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in +Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast, +he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the +privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and +best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the +Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of +this monopoly were never made public. + +Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these +are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which +are believed to be authentic. + +Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba, +none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled +the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning +to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful +character, for although he followed out with energy the various +improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were +often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people +generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he +vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built +a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new +roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and +opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus +laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the +formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also +practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical +effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the +gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the +public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement. + +In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting +a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were +formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our +American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude, +arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were +counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed +for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There +was undoubtedly much of right mingled with his wrongs, but if he left +lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many +tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be +throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of +justice--wild justice--prompting him. Some of the stories still +current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case, +while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as +exercised in the contract with Captain Marti. + +On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as +in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration; +indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday +for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each +with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude +African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic +and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks +representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on +dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to +point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one +they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate +way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on +the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead +calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief. +But what it all means except improving a special occasion for +wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will +puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is +but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually +imported into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however, +from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be +remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years. + +The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these +notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under +the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four +miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and +thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two +thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied +upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its +whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two +thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by +springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than +that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English +physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which +has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is +remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary +invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford +good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky +islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition +in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of +precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur, +quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is +reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a +month. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. + + +There is a regularly organized lottery in Havana, to which the +government lends its name, and which has semi-monthly drawings. These +drawings are made in public, and great care is taken to impress the +people with the idea of their entire fairness. The authorities realize +over a million dollars annually by the tax which is paid into the +treasury on these most questionable enterprises. The lottery is +patronized by high and low, the best mercantile houses devoting a +regular sum monthly to the purchase of tickets on behalf of their +firms. One individual of this class told the writer that no drawing +had taken place within the last ten years at Havana in which the firm +of which he was a member had not been interested to the extent of at +least one doubloon, that is, one whole ticket. The mode usually is, +however, to purchase several fractional parts of tickets, so as to +multiply the chances. On being asked what was the result of the ten +years of speculation in this line, the reply was that the books of the +firm would show, as it was entered therein like any other line of +purchases. Curious to find an authentic instance as an example, the +matter was followed up until the result was found. It seemed that this +house had averaged about four hundred dollars per annum expended for +lottery tickets, that is, four thousand dollars in the last ten years. +On the credit side they had received in prizes about nineteen hundred +dollars, making a loss of twenty-one hundred dollars. "But then," +remarked our informant, "we may get a big prize one of these +days,--who knows?" + +The lottery here proves to be as great a curse as it does in Italy, +where its demoralizing effects are more apparent. The poorer classes, +even including the slaves and free negroes, are regular purchasers, +and occasionally a prize is realized among them, which stimulates to +increased ventures. A few years since, some slaves upon a plantation +near Alquizar purchased a single ticket, clubbing together in order to +raise the money. These Africans drew a prize of forty thousand +dollars, which sum was honestly paid to them, and they purchased their +freedom at once, dividing a very pretty amount for each as a capital +to begin business on his own account. + +"And pray what became of those liberated men?" we asked of our +informant. "Singular to say I can tell you," he answered. "Others felt +the same interest you express, and they have been followed in their +subsequent career. There were sixteen of the party, who realized equal +portions of the prize. They were valuable slaves, and paid an average +of fifteen hundred dollars each for their free papers. This left them +a thousand dollars each. Two returned to Africa. Four joined the +insurgents at Santiago, in 1870, and were probably shot. The remainder +drank themselves to death in Havana, or died by fevers induced +through intemperate habits." "Did you ever know a man, white or black, +who drew a prize of any large amount, who was not the worse for it +after a short time?" we asked. "Perhaps not," was his honest reply. A +miserable creature came into the vestibule of the Telegrafo Hotel one +day begging. After he had departed we were told that a few years ago +he was possessed of a fortune. "Why is he in this condition?" we +asked. "He was engaged in a good business," said our informant, "drew +a large prize in the lottery, sold out his establishment, and gave +himself up to pleasure, gambling, and drink. That is all that is left +of him now. He has just come out of the hospital, where he was treated +for paralysis." + +Honestly conducted as these lotteries are generally believed to be, +their very stability and the just payment of prizes but makes them the +more baleful and dangerous in their influence upon the public. As +carried on in Havana, the lottery business is the most wholesale mode +of gambling ever witnessed. Though some poor man may become +comparatively wealthy through their means, once in twenty years, yet +in the mean time thousands are impoverished in their mad zeal to +purchase tickets though it cost them the last dollar they possess. The +government thus fosters a taste for gambling and supplies the ready +means, while any one at all acquainted with the Spanish character must +know that the populace need no prompting in a vice to which they seem +to take intuitively. No people, unless it be the Chinese, are so +addicted to all games of chance upon which money can be staked. + +Spaniards, and especially Cuban Spaniards, receive credit for being +extremely hospitable, and to a certain extent this is true; but one +soon learns to regard the extravagant manifestations which so often +characterize their domestic etiquette as rather empty and heartless. +Let a stranger enter the house of a Cuban for the first time, +especially if he be a foreigner, and the host or hostess of the +mansion at once places all things they possess at his service, yet no +one thinks for a single moment of interpreting this offer literally. +The family vehicle is at your order, or the loan of a saddle horse, +and in such small kindnesses they are always generous; but when they +beg you to accept a ring, a book, or a valuable toy, because you have +been liberal in your praise of the article, you are by no means to do +so. Another trait of character which suggests itself in this +connection is the universal habit of profuse compliment common among +Cuban ladies. Flattery is a base coin at best, but it is current here. +The ladies listen to these compliments as a matter of course from +their own countrymen or such Frenchmen as have settled among them, but +if an American takes occasion to express his honest admiration to a +Creole, her delight is at once manifest. Both the French and Spanish +are extremely gallant to the gentler sex, but it requires no argument +to show that woman under either nationality is far less esteemed and +honored than she is with us in America. + +The bonnet, which forms so important a part of a lady's costume in +Europe and America, is rarely worn by the Creoles, and strangers who +appear on the streets of Havana with the latest fashion of this ever +varying article are regarded with curiosity, though so many American +and English ladies visit the island annually. In place of a bonnet, +when any covering is considered desirable for the head, the Cuban +ladies generally wear a long black veil, richly wrought, and gathered +at the back of the head upon the clustered braid of hair, which is +always black and luxuriant. More frequently, however, even this +appendage is not seen, and they drive in the Paseo or through the +streets with their heads entirely uncovered, save by the sheltering +hood of the victoria. When necessity calls them abroad in the early or +middle hours of the day, there is generally a canvas screen buttoned +to the dasher and extended to the top of the calash, to shut out the +too ardent rays of the sun. Full dress, on all state occasions, is +black, but white is universally worn by the ladies in domestic life, +forming a rich contrast to the olive complexions of the women. +Sometimes in the Paseo, when enjoying the evening drive, these fair +creatures indulge in strange contrasts of colors in dress. They also +freely make use of a cosmetic called cascarilla, made from eggshells +finely powdered and mixed with the white of the egg. This forms an +adhesive paste, with which they at times enamel themselves, so that +faces and necks that are naturally dark resemble those of persons who +are white as pearls. + +There is one indispensable article, without which a Cuban lady would +feel herself absolutely lost. The fan is a positive necessity to her, +and she learns its coquettish and graceful use from childhood. Formed +of various rich materials, it glitters in her tiny hand like a gaudy +butterfly, now half, now wholly shading her radiant face, which +quickly peeps out again from behind its shelter, like the moon from +out a passing cloud. This little article, always costly, sometimes +very expensive, in her hand seems in its eloquence of motion almost to +speak. She has a witching flirt with it that expresses scorn; a +graceful wave of complacence; an abrupt closing of it that indicates +vexation or anger; a gradual and cautious opening of its folds that +signifies reluctant forgiveness; in short, the language of the fan in +the hand of a Cuban lady is a wonderfully adroit and expressive +pantomime that requires no interpreter, for, like the Chinese written +language, it cannot be spoken. + +It may be the prodigality of nature in respect to Flora's kingdom +which has retarded the development of a love for flowers among the +people of the island. Doubtless if Maréchal Niel roses, Jacqueminots, +jonquils, and lilies of the valley were as abundant with us in every +field as clover, dandelions, and buttercups, we should hardly regard +them with so much delight as we do. It is not common to see flowers +under cultivation as they are at the North. They spring up too readily +in a wild state from the fertile soil. One cannot pass over half a +league on an inland road without his senses being regaled and +delighted by the natural floral fragrance, heliotrope, honeysuckle, +sweet pea, and orange blossoms predominating. The jasmine and Cape +rose, though less fragrant, are delightful to the eye, and cluster +everywhere among the hedges, groves, and coffee estates. There is a +blossoming shrub, the native name of which we do not remember, but +which is remarkable for its multitudinous crimson flowers, so +seductive to the humming-birds that they hover about it all day long, +burying themselves in its blossoms until petal and wing seem one. At +first upright, a little later the gorgeous bells droop downward and +fall to the ground unwithered, being poetically called Cupid's tears. +Flowers abound here which are only known to us in our hothouses, whose +brilliant colors, like those of the cactus, scarlet, yellow, and blue, +are quite in harmony with the surroundings, where everything is aglow. +There was pointed out to us a specimen of the frangipanni, a tall and +nearly leafless plant bearing a milk-white flower, and resembling the +tuberose in fragrance, but in form much like our Cherokee rose. This +plant, it will be remembered, was so abundant and so pleasant to the +senses as to attract the attention of the early explorers who +accompanied Columbus across the sea. + +There seems to be at times a strange narcotic influence in the +atmosphere of the island, realized more especially inland, where the +visitor is partially removed from the winds which commonly blow from +the Gulf in the after part of the day. So potent has the writer felt +this influence that at first it was supposed to be the effect of some +powerful and medicinal plant abounding in the neighborhood; but on +inquiry it was found that this delightful sense of ease and indolent +luxuriousness was not an unusual experience, particularly among +strangers, and was solely attributable to the narcotic of the soft +climate. By gently yielding to this influence one seemed to dream +while awake, and though the sense of hearing is diminished, that of +the olfactories appears to be increased, and pleasant odors float on +every passing breeze. One feels at peace with all human nature, and a +sense of voluptuous ease overspreads the body. Others have experienced +and remarked upon this sensation of idle happiness. The only +unpleasant realizing sense during the enjoyment of this condition is +the fear that some human voice, or some chance noise, loud and abrupt, +may arouse the dreamer from his trance. + +Specimens of the Indian fig, as it is called here, will be sure to +attract the visitor's eye on his inland excursions. It clasps, +entwines, and finally, serpent-like, kills the loftiest forest +monarchs, and taking their place, firmly roots itself and becomes a +stately tree, fattening upon its ill-gotten possession. Its unfading +leaf of vivid green is beautiful to look upon, in spite of its known +and treacherous character. In many respects it typifies the Spanish +discoverers of this beautiful isle, who gradually possessed themselves +of its glorious heritage by the destruction of its legitimate owners. + +The manner in which that prolific tree, the cocoanut palm, is +propagated was a curious and interesting study for a leisure hour, the +germination having been with us heretofore an unsolved riddle. Within +the hard shell of the nut, among the mass of rich creamy substance, +near the large end, is a small white lump like the stalk of a young +mushroom, called the ovule. This little finger-like germ of the future +tree gradually forces itself through one of the three eyes always to +be found on the cocoanut. What giant power is concealed within that +tiny ovule, apparently so soft and insignificant! Having pierced its +way through the first shell, it then gradually rends the outer coat of +fibrous covering and curves upward towards the light. Into the inner +shell which it has vacated, it throws little fibrous threads which +slowly absorb the albumen, and thus sustain its new life as it rapidly +develops. First a few leaves grow upward, which from the very outset +begin to assume the pinnate form of the cocoanut leaf, while, +stretching earthward, a myriad of little threads of roots bury +themselves in the ground. Though the tree will grow to a height of +sixty feet or more, these roots will never individually exceed the +size of the fingers on one's hand. In five or six years the tree will +produce its first cluster of cocoanuts, and for several years will go +on increasing in fruitfulness and yielding a bountiful crop for fifty +or sixty years. It was a constant wonder how these cocoanut trees +could sustain an upright position with such a weight of ripening fruit +clustered beneath the shade of their tufted tops. + +As regards the cost of living in the island, it may be said to average +higher to the stranger than in the United States. At the city hotels +and large boarding houses the charge is modified from four or five +dollars per day; if a special bargain is made for a considerable +period, it is customary to give a reduction on transient rates of ten +or fifteen per cent. Among the small towns in the interior, at the +houses of entertainment, which are wretchedly poor as a rule, the +charges are exorbitant, and strangers are looked upon as fair game. +This, however, is no more so than in continental Europe, where, though +the accommodations are better, the general treatment is the same. The +luscious and healthful fruits of the country form a large share of the +provisions of the table in Cuba, and are always freely provided. A +fair quality of claret wine, imported from Spain, is also regularly +placed before the guest free of charge, it being the ordinary drink of +the people; but beware of calling for other wines, and particularly +champagne, unless you are prepared to be swindled by the price charged +in your bill. Of course you get only imitation champagne,--that is to +be expected; you do the same nearly everywhere. There is not enough +pure champagne manufactured in Europe to supply the Paris and London +markets alone. The mode of cooking is very similar to the French, plus +the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime +necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba, +however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table +which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content +to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the +curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to +compensate for many small annoyances. + +One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on +the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated +about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by +rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that +between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the +result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over +nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently +demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The +water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly +depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three +or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines +is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on +the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by +Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary +for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in +Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is +impossible to find in the metropolis. + +Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious +place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives +indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling +combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds +become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could +not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other +in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as +long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and +the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of +gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these +contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being +reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted +priest, as eager in the result as the professionals themselves. The +cock-pit is a circular building, thirty or forty feet in diameter, +resembling on the outside a huge haystack. The size, however, is +regulated according to the population of the immediate neighborhood. +The seats are raised in a circle, one above another, about a central +ring in which the contest takes place. The ground is covered with +sawdust or tan. The birds are of a native game breed, and are subject +from chickenhood to a peculiar course of treatment. The English +game-cock is prized here only for crossing with the native breed. He +cannot equal the Spanish bird in the necessary qualities of pluck and +endurance. + +The food of the game-cock when in training is regulated with great +care, carefully weighed, and a certain number of ounces is given to +him three times a day, so that the bird, like a race-horse, is never +permitted to grow fat, but is kept in what is called fighting +condition. Some days before a contest they are fed with a few ounces +of raw meat once during the twenty-four hours, which, being kept +always a little hungry, they devour with avidity. Greater care as to +diet and exercise could not be taken by pugilists training for a +conflict. The feathers of these fighting-cocks are closely cropped in +a jaunty style; the neck and head, to the length of three inches, is +completely plucked of all feathers, the comb being trimmed close to +the crown. The flesh which is thus left bare is daily rubbed with rum +until it becomes hardened and calloused. Brief encounters are +permitted among them under proper restrictions, when they are young. +No fear is felt that they will seriously injure each other, until they +are old enough to have the sharp steel gaffs affixed upon the spurs +with which nature has supplied them. Then, like men armed with sword +and dagger, they attack each other with fatal earnestness, making the +blood flow at every stroke. It is singular that the birds are so +determined upon the fight that no amount of loud cries, or challenges +between the betters, or jeers by the excited audience, disturbs them +in the least. + +The author witnessed one of these exhibitions at Guines. The +fighting-ring of the cock-pit was some twelve feet in diameter, the +seating capacity being arranged for about a hundred persons or more, +and each bench was fully occupied. The two birds pitted against each +other were carefully weighed, and the result was announced to the +audience. They were then passed in review, held in the hands of their +respective owners, and betting at once commenced as to which would +win the victory. In the mean time the two birds seemed quietly +awaiting their time, and by the knowing way in which both surveyed the +surroundings and the assembled people, they really appeared as if they +understood the business in hand. There was no struggling on their part +to get out of the hands of those who held them. Presently they were +passed into the care of the umpires, two of whom officiated, and who +then affixed the steel gaffs to the spurs of the contestants. The two +birds were then placed on the ground inside of the ring, opposite each +other. No sooner did they feel themselves fairly on their feet than +both crowed triumphantly, eying each other with fell intent. + +Then commenced a series of bird-tactics, each partially advancing and +pretending to retreat as if to draw on his antagonist, pecking the +while at imaginary kernels of corn on the ground. In the mean time the +audience almost held its breath in anticipation of the cunningly +deferred onset. Presently the two birds, as if by one impulse, rushed +towards each other, and a simultaneous attack took place. The contest, +when the birds are armed with steel gaffs, rarely lasts more than +eight or ten minutes before one or both are so injured as to end the +fight. The money staked upon the fight is won by those backing the +bird which survives, or is longest in dying. When the artificial spurs +are not used, and the birds fight in their natural state, the battle +sometimes lasts for an hour, but is always fatal in the end to one or +the other, or both. Eyes are pecked out, wings and legs broken, necks +pierced again and again; still they fight on until death ensues. +During the fight the excitement is intense, and a babel of voices +reigns within the structure, the betting being loud, rapid, and high. +Thus in a small way the cock-fight is as cruel and as demoralizing as +that other national game, the terrible bull-fight, indigenous to Spain +and her colonies. + +Cuba has justly been called the garden of the world, perpetual summer +smiling upon its shores, and its natural wealth and possibilities +baffling even the imagination. The waters which surround it, as we +have seen, abound with a variety of fishes, whose bright colors, +emulating the tints of precious stones and the prismatic hues of the +rainbow, astonish and delight the eye of the stranger. Stately and +peculiar trees enliven the picturesque landscape. Throughout the woods +and groves flit a variety of birds, whose dazzling colors defy the +palette of the artist. Here the loquacious parrot utters his harsh +natural notes; there the red flamingo watches by the shore of the +lagoon, the waters dyed by the reflection of his scarlet plumage. It +would require a volume to describe the vegetable and animal kingdom of +Cuba, but among the most familiar birds are the golden robin, the +bluebird, the catbird, the Spanish woodpecker, the gaudy-plumed +paroquet, and the pedoreva, with its red throat and breast and its +pea-green head and body. There is also a great variety of wild +pigeons, blue, gray, and white; the English lady-bird, with a blue +head, scarlet breast, and green and white back; the indigo-bird, the +golden-winged woodpecker, the ibis, and many smaller species, like the +humming-bird. Of this latter family there are said to be sixty +different varieties, each sufficiently individualized in size and +other peculiarities to be easily identified by ornithologists. Some +of these birds are actually no larger in body than butterflies, and +with not so large a spread of wing. A humming-bird's nest, composed of +cotton interlaced with horse-hair, was shown the author at Buena +Esperanza, a plantation near Guines. It was about twice the size of a +lady's thimble, and contained two eggs, no larger than common peas. +The nest was a marvel of perfection, the cotton being bound cunningly +and securely together by the long horse-hairs, of which there were not +more than three or four. Human fingers could not have done it so +deftly. Probably the bird that built the nest and laid the eggs did +not weigh, all fledged, over half an ounce! Parrots settle on the sour +orange trees when the fruit is ripe, and fifty may be secured by a net +at a time. The Creoles stew and eat them as we do pigeons; the flesh +is tough, and as there are plenty of fine water-fowl and marsh birds +about the lagoons as easily procured, one is at a loss to account for +the taste that leads to eating parrots. The brown pelican is seen in +great numbers sailing lazily over the water and dipping for fish. + +Strange is the ubiquity of the crows; one sees them in middle India, +China, and Japan. They ravage our New England cornfields, and in +Ceylon,--equatorial Ceylon,--they absolutely swarm. When one, +therefore, finds them saucy, noisy, thieving, even in Cuba, it is not +surprising that the fact should be remarked upon, though here the +species differs somewhat from those referred to, being known as the +Jack-crow or turkey-buzzard. In the far East, like the vulture, the +crow is considered a natural scavenger or remover of carrion, and the +same excuse is made for him in Cuba and Florida. But is he not more of +a freebooter and feathered bandit,--in short, a prowling thief +generally? Nature has few birds or animals upon her varied list with +which we would find fault, but the crow,--well, having nothing to say +in its favor, let us drop the subject. Parrots, paroquets, tiny indigo +birds, pedorevas, and robins,--yes, these are all in harmony with +mingled fragrance and sunshine, but the coal-black crow, with his bad +habits and hoarse bird-profanity, bah! When these West Indian islands +were first settled by Spanish emigrants, they were the home of myriads +of birds of every tropical variety, but to-day the feathered beauties +and merry songsters have been entirely driven away from some of the +smaller islands, and decimated on others, by the demand for bird's +wings with which to deck ladies' bonnets in Europe and America. +Sportsmen have found it profitable to visit the tropics solely for the +purpose of shooting these rainbow-colored creatures for ornaments. +Aside from the loss to general interest and beauty in nature caused by +this wholesale destruction of the feathered tribe, another and quite +serious result has been the consequence. A plague of vermin has +followed the withdrawal of these little insect-killers. It is so +natural to look for them amid such luxuriant vegetation that they +become conspicuous by their absence. Now and again, however, the ears +are gratefully saluted by the trilling and sustained notes of some +hidden songster, whose music is entirely in tune with the surrounding +loveliness, but truly delightful song-birds have ever been rare in the +low latitudes, where there is more of color than song. + +Those agriculturists who possess sufficient means confine themselves +solely to the raising of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, the former +principally employing capital. Indian corn, which the first settlers +found indigenous here, is quite neglected, and when raised at all it +is used before ripening, almost universally, as green fodder; very +little is ripened and gathered as grain. It is found that horses and +cattle can be kept in good condition and strength, while performing +the usual labor required of them, by feeding them on a liberal +allowance of cornstalks, given in the green state, before the corn has +begun to form on the cob. The Cubans will tell you that the nourishing +principle which forms the grain is in the stalk and leaves, and if fed +in that state before ripening further, the animals obtain all the +sustaining properties which they require. The climate is particularly +adapted to the raising of oranges, but there is very little attention +given to propagating this universally popular fruit, more especially +since the increased production which has taken place on the other side +of the Gulf Stream in Florida. Three years after the seed of this +fruit is deposited in suitable soil in Cuba the tree becomes ten or +twelve feet in height, and in the fourth year rarely produces less +than a hundred oranges, while at ten years of age it commonly bears +three and four thousand, thus proving, with proper care, extremely +profitable. It will be remembered that it is the longest lived of +succulent fruit trees. There are specimens still extant in Cuba known +to be one hundred years old. The oranges produced in Florida are of +equally good quality, and bring a better price in the market, but the +crop is subject to more contingencies and liability to loss than in +Cuba. The frost not infrequently ruins a whole season's yield in the +peninsula in one or two severe nights, while frost is never +experienced upon the island. + +It seems unreasonable that when the generous, fruitful soil of Cuba is +capable of producing two or three crops of vegetables annually, the +agricultural wealth of the island should be so poorly developed. +Thousands upon thousands of acres of fertile soil are still in their +virgin condition. It is capable of supporting a population of almost +any density,--certainly from eight to ten millions of people might +find goodly homes here, and yet the largest estimate at the present +time gives only a million and a half of inhabitants. When one treads +the fertile soil and beholds the clustering fruits in such abundance, +the citron, the star-apple, the perfumed pineapple, the luscious +banana, and other fruits for which our language has no name, not +forgetting the various noble woods which caused Columbus to exclaim +with pleasure, and to mention the palm and the pine growing together, +characteristic types of Arctic and equatorial vegetation, we are +struck with the thought of how much Providence and how little man has +done for this Eden of the Gulf. We long to see it peopled by men who +can appreciate the gifts of nature, men who are willing to do their +part in recognition of her fruitfulness and who will second her +spontaneous bounty. + +Nowhere on the face of the globe would well-directed, intelligent +labor meet with a richer reward, nowhere would repose from labor be so +sweet. The hour of rest here sinks upon the face of nature with a +peculiar charm; the night breeze, in never-failing regularity, comes +with its gentle wing to fan the weary frame, and no danger lurks in +its breath. It has free scope through the unglazed windows, and +blowing fresh from the broad surface of the Mexican Gulf, it bears a +goodly tonic to the system. Beautifully blue are the heavens and +festally bright the stars of a tropical night, where familiar +constellations greet us with brighter radiance and new ones charm the +eye with their novelty. Preëminent in brilliancy among them is the +Southern Cross, a galaxy of stars that never greets us in the North. +At midnight its glittering framework stands erect. That solemn hour +past the Cross declines. How glorious the nights where such a heavenly +sentinel indicates the watches! "How often have we heard our guides +exclaim in the savannas of Venezuela," says Humboldt, "or in the +deserts extending from Lima to Truxillo, 'Midnight is past, the Cross +begins to bend.'" Cuba is indeed a land of enchantment, where nature +is beautiful and bountiful, and where mere existence is a luxury, but +it requires the infusion of a sterner, a more self-reliant, +self-denying and enterprising race to test its capabilities and to +astonish the world with its productiveness. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards Compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. --The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. + + +The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only +one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of. +It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches +are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present +notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique +vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its +extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the +peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At +first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards +in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to +ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is +most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the +deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently +its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every +impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is +very light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When +traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast +of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and +traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the +left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the +vehicle. + +If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and +there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often +added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the +shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the +calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great +pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented +for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes +even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed +negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or +silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the +knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more +especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the +freight. + +Were it not for the few railroads and steamboat routes which are +maintained, communication between the several parts of the island +would be almost impossible. During the rainy season especially, inland +travel is impracticable for wheels. China or Central Africa is equally +well off in this respect. Nearly all transportation, except it be on +the line of the railroads, is accomplished on mule-back, or on the +little Cuban horses. The fact is, road making is yet to be introduced +into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in +the environs of cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed +of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in +America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the +island than this absence of means for internal communication. In +Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford +facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was +first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most +bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was +the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of +property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city +proper. + +One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the +traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon +him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the +government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a +considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps +visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to +desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such +idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in +Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority. +Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor +desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh +permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show +your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which +you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says +it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at +police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin is quite as +uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must +hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the +contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are +sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your +correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well +as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the +receipt thereof. + +Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight +is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its +indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibitions are given at +Havana on each recurring Sunday afternoon, the same day that is chosen +for the brutal sport in Madrid and other Spanish peninsular cities. +The arena devoted to this purpose will seat about ten thousand +persons. The ground upon which the fight takes place occupies about an +acre, and is situated on the Regla side of the harbor, in the Plaza de +Toros. The seats are raised one above another, in a complete circle, +at a secure height from the dangerous struggle. Sometimes, in his +furious onslaughts, the bull throws himself completely over the stout +boards which separate him from the spectators, when a wild stampede +occurs. + +On the occasion of the fight witnessed by the author, after a shrill +flourish of trumpets a large bull was let loose from apartments +beneath the seats, the door of which opened into the arena. The poor +creature came from utter darkness, where he had been kept for many +hours, into a blaze of bright sunlight, which confused him for a +moment, and he pawed the ground excitedly, while he rolled his big +fierce eyeballs as though he suspected some trick had been played upon +him. Presently, having become accustomed to the light, he glared from +one side to the other as if to take in the situation, and see who it +was that dared to oppose him. + +In the ring, distributed here and there, were some half a dozen +professional fighters on foot, called banderilleros and chulos, +besides which there were two on horseback, known as picadors. The +former held scarlet flags in their hands, with which to confuse and +tease the bull; the latter were armed with a long pole each, at the +end of which was a sharp piece of steel capable of wounding the bull, +but not deeply or dangerously. These fighters were a hardened set of +villains, if the human countenance can be relied upon as showing forth +the inner man. They rushed towards the animal and flaunted their flags +before his eyes, striving to excite and draw him on to attack them. +They seemed reckless, but very expert, agile, and wary. Every effort +was made to worry and torment the bull to a state of frenzy. Barbs +were thrust into his neck and back by the banderilleros, with small +rockets attached. These exploded into his very flesh, which they +burned and tore. Thrusts from the horsemen's spears also gave harsh, +if not dangerous wounds, so that the animal bled freely at many +points. + +When the infuriated beast made a rush at one of his tormentors, they +adroitly sprang on one side, or, if too closely pressed, these +practiced athletes with a handspring leaped over the high board fence. +Whichever way he turned the bull met a fresh enemy and another device +of torment, until at last the poor creature was frantically mad. The +fight then became more earnest, the bull rushing first at one and +then another of his enemies, but the practiced fighters were too wary +for him; he could not change position so quickly as they could. +Finally, the bull turned his attention to the horses and made madly +first at the one which was nearest, and though he received a tearing +wound along his spine from the horseman's spear, he ripped the horse's +bowels open with his horns and threw him upon the ground, with his +rider under him. The men on foot rushed to the rescue and drew off the +bull by fresh attacks and by flaunting the flags before his eyes. In +the mean time, the rider was got out from beneath the horse, which lay +dying. The bull, finding that he could revenge himself on the horses, +transferred his attention to the other and threw him to the ground +with his rider, but received another long wound upon his own back. +Leaving the two horses lying nearly dead, the bull again turned upon +the banderilleros, rushing with such headlong speed at them that he +buried his sharp horns several inches in the timbers of the fence. It +was even a struggle for him to extract them. The purpose is not to +give the bull any fatal wounds, but to worry and torment him to the +last degree of endurance. This struggle was kept up for twenty minutes +or more, when the poor creature, bleeding from a hundred wounds, +seemed nearly exhausted. Then, at a sign from the director, there was +a grand flourish of trumpets, and the matador, a skillful swordsman +and the hero of the occasion, entered the ring to close with the bull, +singly. The other fighters withdrew and the matador advanced with a +scarlet flag in one hand and his naked sword in the other. The bull +stood at bay, too much worn by the fight and loss of blood to +voluntarily attack this single enemy. The matador advanced and lured +him to an attack by flaunting his flag. A few feeble rushes were made +by the bleeding animal, until, in a last effort to drive his horns +into this new enemy, he staggered heavily forward. This time the +matador did not leap to one side, but received the bull upon the point +of his Toledo blade, which was aimed at a spot just back of the horns, +where the brain meets the spinal column. As the bull comes on with his +head bent down to the charge, this spot is exposed, and forms a fair +target for a practiced hand. The effect was electrical. The bull +staggered, reeled from side to side for an instant, and then fell +dead. Four bulls were destroyed in a like manner that afternoon, and, +in their gallant fight for their lives, they killed seven horses, +trampling their riders in two instances almost fatally, though they +are protected by a sort of leather armor on their limbs and body. +During the fight with the second bull, which was an extremely fierce +and powerful creature, a young girl of eighteen dressed in male +attire, who was trained to the brutal business, took an active part in +the arena with the banderilleros. One remarkable feat which she +performed was that of leaping by means of a pole completely over the +bull when he was charging at her. At Madrid, where the author +witnessed a similar exhibition, the introduction of a young girl among +the fighters was omitted, but otherwise the performance was nearly +identical. At the close of each act of the murderous drama, six horses +gayly caparisoned with bells and plumes dashed into the arena led by +attendants, and chains being attached to the bodies of the dead +animals, they were drawn out at great speed through a gate opened for +the purpose, amid another flourish of trumpets and the shouts of the +excited multitude. + +The worst of all this is that the influence of such outrageous cruelty +is lasting. It infects the beholders with a like spirit. In fact, it +is contagious. We all know how hard the English people became in the +time of Henry VIII. and Bloody Mary. + +In this struggle of the bull ring there is no gallantry or true +bravery displayed on the part of the professional fighters. They run +but little personal risk, practiced as they are, sheltered and +protected by artificial means and armed with keen weapons, whereas the +bull has only his horns to protect himself from his many tormentors. +There is no possible escape for him; his fate is sealed from the +moment he enters the ring. All the true bravery exhibited is on his +part; he is always the attacking party, and were the exhibition to be +attempted in an open field, even armed as they are, he would drive +every one of his enemies out of sight. The much-lauded matador does +not take his position in front of the animal until it is very nearly +exhausted by loss of blood and long-continued, furious fighting. In +our estimation, he encounters far less risk than does the humblest of +the banderilleros or chulos, who torment the bull face to face in the +fullness of his physical strength and courage. Still, instances are +not wanting wherein these matadors have been seriously wounded and +even killed by a frantic and dying bull, who has roused himself for a +last final struggle. + +Whatever colonial modification the Spanish character may have +apparently undergone in Cuba, the Creole is Castilian still in his +love for the cruel sports of the arena. Great is the similitude also +between the modern Spaniard and the ancient Roman in this respect. As +the Spanish language more closely resembles Latin than does the +Italian, so do the Spanish people show more of Roman blood than the +natives of Italy themselves. _Panem et circenses_ (bread and +circuses!) was the cry of the old Roman populace, and to gratify their +wishes millions of sesterces were lavished, and hecatombs of human +victims slain in the splendid amphitheatres erected by the masters of +the world in all the cities subject to their sway. And so _pan y +toros_ (bread and bulls!) is the imperious demand of the Spaniards, to +which the government is forced to respond. The parallel may be pursued +still further. The proudest ladies of Rome, maids and matrons, gazed +with liveliest interest upon the dying gladiators who hewed each other +in pieces, or on the Christians who perished in conflict with the wild +beasts, half starved to give them battle. So the señoras and señoritas +of Madrid, Seville, Malaga, and Havana enjoy, with keen delight, the +terrible spectacle of bulls slaughtered by picadors and matadors, and +gallant horses ripped up and disemboweled by the horns of their brute +adversaries. It is true that the ameliorating spirit of Christianity +is evinced in the changes which the arena has undergone. Human lives +are no longer designedly sacrificed wholesale in the bloody contests, +yet the bull-fight is sufficiently barbarous and atrocious. It is a +national institution, indicative of national character. + +To look upon the serenity of Cuban ladies, driving in the Paseo or +listening to the nightly music in the Plaza de Isabella, one could not +possibly imagine them to be lacking in tenderness, or that there was +in them sufficient hardihood to witness such exhibitions as we have +described, and yet one third of the audience on the occasion spoken of +was composed of the gentler sex. They are almost universally handsome, +being rather below the average height of the sex with us, but +possessing an erect and dignified carriage. Their form, always rounded +to a delicate fullness, is quite perfection in point of model. Their +dark hair and olive complexions are well matched,--the latter without +a particle of natural carmine. The eyes are a match for the hair, +being large and beautifully expressive, with a most irresistible dash +of languor in them,--but not the languor of illness. It is really +difficult to conceive of an ugly woman with such eyes as they all +possess in Cuba,--the Moorish, Andalusian eye. The Cuban women have +also been justly famed for their graceful carriage, and it is indeed +the poetry of motion, singular as it may appear, when it is remembered +that for them to walk abroad is such a rarity. It is not the simple +progressive motion alone, but also the harmonious play of features, +the coquettish undulation of the face, the exquisite disposition of +costume, and the modulation of voice, that engage the beholder and +lend a happy charm to every attitude and every step. + +The gentlemen as a rule are good-looking, though they are much +smaller, lighter, and more agile than the average American. The lazy +life they so universally lead tends to make them less manly than a +more active one would do. It seems to be a rule among them never to do +for themselves that which a slave can do for them. This is +demonstrated in the style of the volante, where the small horse is +made not only to draw the vehicle, but also to carry a large negro on +his back as driver. Now, if reins were used, there would be no +occasion for the postilion at all, but a Spaniard or Creole would +think it demeaning to drive his own vehicle. With abundance of +leisure, and the ever present influences of their genial clime, where +the heart's blood leaps more swiftly to the promptings of the +imagination and where the female form earliest attains its maturity, +the West Indians seem peculiarly adapted for romance and for love. The +consequent adventures constantly occurring among them often culminate +in startling tragedies, and afford plots in which a French +feuilletonist would revel. + +The nobility of Cuba, so called, is composed of rather homespun +material, to say the least, of it. There may be some fifty individuals +dubbed with the title of marquis, and as many more with that of count, +most of whom have acquired their wealth and position by carrying on +extensive sugar plantations. These are sneeringly designated by the +humble classes as sugar noblemen, and not inappropriately so, as +nearly all of these aristocratic gentlemen have purchased their titles +outright for money. Not the least consideration is exercised by the +Spanish throne as to the fitness of these ambitious individuals for +honorary distinction. It is a mere question of money, and if this be +forthcoming the title follows as a natural sequence. Twenty-five +thousand dollars will purchase any title. Such things are done in +other lands, but not quite so openly. And yet the tone of Cuban +society in its higher circles is found to be rather aristocratic and +exclusive. The native of Old Spain does not endeavor to conceal his +contempt for foreigners of all classes, and as to the Creoles, he +simply scorns to meet them on social grounds, shielding his +inferiority of intelligence under a cloak of hauteur, assuming the +wings of the eagle, but possessing only the eyes of the owl. Thus the +Castilians and Creoles are ever at antagonism, both socially and +politically. The bitterness of feeling existing between them can +hardly be exaggerated. The sugar planter, the coffee planter, the +merchant, and the liberal professions stand in the order in which we +have named them, as regards their relative degree of social +importance, but wealth, in fact, has the same charm here as elsewhere +in Christendom, and the millionaire has the entrée to all classes. + +The Monteros or yeomanry of the island inhabit the less cultivated and +cheaper portions of the soil, entering the cities only to dispose of +their surplus produce, and acting as the marketmen of the populous +districts. When they stir abroad, in nearly all parts of the island, +they are armed with a sword, and in the eastern sections about +Santiago, or even Cienfuegos, they also carry pistols in the holsters +of their saddles. Formerly this was indispensable for self-protection, +but at this time weapons are more rarely worn. Still the arming of the +Monteros has always been encouraged by the authorities, as they form a +sort of militia at all times available against negro insurrection, a +calamity in fear of which such communities must always live. The +Montero is rarely a slaveholder, but is frequently engaged on the +sugar plantations during the busy season as an overseer, and, to his +discredit be it said, he generally proves to be a hard taskmaster, +entertaining an intuitive dislike to the negroes. + +An evidence of the contagious character of cruelty was given in a +circumstance coming under the author's observation on a certain +plantation at Alquizar, where a manifest piece of severity led him to +appeal to the proprietor in behalf of a female slave. The request for +mercy was promptly granted, and the acting overseer, himself a +mulatto, was quietly reprimanded for his cruelty. "You will find," +said our host, "that colored men always make the hardest masters when +placed over their own race, but they have heretofore been much +employed on the island in this capacity, because a sense of pride +makes them faithful to the proprietor's interest. That man is himself +a slave," he added, pointing to the sub-overseer, who still stood +among the negroes, whip in hand. + +The Montero sometimes hires a free colored man to help him in the +planting season on his little patch of vegetable garden, in such work +as a Yankee would do for himself, but these small farmers trust mostly +to the exuberant fertility of the soil, and spare themselves all +manual labor, save that of gathering the produce and taking it to +market. They form, nevertheless, a very important and interesting +class of the population. They marry very young, the girls at thirteen +and fifteen, the young men from sixteen to eighteen, and almost +invariably rear large families. Pineapples and children are a +remarkably sure crop in the tropics. The increase among them during +the last half century has been very large, much more in proportion +than in any other class of the community, and they seem to be +approaching a degree of importance, at least numerically, which will +render them eventually like the American farmers, the bone and sinew +of the land. There is room enough for them and to spare, for hardly +more than one tenth of the land is under actual cultivation, a vast +portion being still covered by virgin forests and uncleared savannas. +The great and glaring misfortune--next to that of living under a +government permitting neither civil nor religious liberty, where +church and state are alike debased as the tools of despotism,--is +their want of educational facilities. Books and schools they have +none. Barbarism itself is scarcely less cultured. We were told that +the people had of late been somewhat aroused from this condition of +lethargy concerning education, and some effort has recently been made +among the more intelligent to afford their children opportunities for +instruction. But at the present writing, the Egyptian fellah is not +more ignorant than the rural population of Cuba, who as a mass possess +all the indolence and few of the virtues of the aborigines. + +There is one highly creditable characteristic evinced by the Monteros +as a class, and that is their temperate habits in regard to indulgence +in stimulating drinks. As a beverage they do not use ardent spirits, +and seem to have no taste or desire for the article, though they drink +the ordinary claret--rarely anything stronger. This applies to the +country people, not to the residents of the cities. The latter quickly +contract the habit of gin drinking, as already described. There is one +prominent vice to which the Monteros are indisputably addicted; +namely, that of gambling. It seems to be a natural as well as a +national trait, the appliances for which are so constantly at hand in +the form of lottery tickets and the cock-pits that they can hardly +escape the baleful influences. There are some who possess sufficient +strength of character and intelligence to avoid it altogether, but +with the majority it is the regular resort for each leisure hour. One +of their own statesmen, Castelar, told the Spaniards, not long since, +that gambling was the tax laid upon fools. + +Perhaps the best place at which to study the appearance and character +of the Monteros is at the Central Market, where they come daily by +hundreds from the country in the early morning to sell their produce, +accompanied by long lines of mules or horses with well-laden panniers. +It is a motley crowd that one meets there, where purchasers and +salesmen mingle promiscuously. From six to nine o'clock, A. M., it is +the busiest place in all Havana. Negroes and mulattoes, Creoles and +Spaniards, Chinamen and Monteros, men and women, beggars, purchasers, +and slaves, all come to the market on the Calzada de la Reina. Here +the display of fruits and vegetables is something marvelous, both in +variety and in picturesqueness of arrangement. This locality is the +natural resort of the mendicants, who pick up a trifle in the way of +provisions from one and another, as people who do not feel disposed to +bestow money will often give food to the indigent. This market was the +only place in the city where it was possible to purchase flowers, but +here one or two humble dealers came at early morn to dispose of such +buds and blossoms as they found in demand. A blind Chinese coolie was +found sitting on the sidewalk every morning, at the corner of the +Calzada de la Reina, just opposite the market, and he elicited a +trifle from us now and again. One morning a couple of roses and a +sprig of lemon verbena were added to his small gratuity. The effect +upon that sightless countenance was electrical, and the poor +mendicant, having only pantomime with which to express his delight, +seemed half frantic. The money fell to the ground, but the flowers +were pressed passionately to his breast. + +Did it remind him, we thought, of perfumes which had once delighted +his youthful senses in far-off Asia, before he had been decoyed to a +foreign land and into semi-slavery, to be deprived of health, liberty, +sight, hope, everything? + +The Cuban beggars have a dash of originality in their ideas as to the +successful prosecution of their calling; we mean those "native and to +the manor born." Some of them possess two and even three cadaverous +dogs, taught to follow closely at their heels, as they wander about, +and having the same shriveled-up, half-starved aspect as their +masters. One beggar, who was quite a cripple, had his daily seat in a +sort of wheelbarrow, at the corner of Paseo Street, opposite the Plaza +de Isabella. This man was always accompanied by a parrot of gaudy +plumage, perched familiarly on his shoulder. Now and then the cripple +put some favorite bird-food between his own lips, which the parrot +extracted and appropriated with such promptness as to indicate a good +appetite. Another solicitor of alms, quite old and bent, had an +amusing companion in a little gray squirrel, with a collar and string +attached, the animal being as mischievous as a monkey, now and then +hiding in one of the mendicant's several pockets, sometimes coming +forth to crack and eat a nut upon his owner's shoulder. A blind +beggar, of Creole nationality, sat all day long in the hot sun, on the +Alameda de Paula near the Hotel San Carlos, whose companion was a +chimpanzee monkey. The little half-human creature held out its hand +with a piteous expression to every passer-by, and deposited whatever +he received in his master's pocket. These pets serve to attract +attention, if not commiseration, and we observed that the men did not +beg in vain. + +The acme of originality, however, was certainly reached in the case of +a remarkable Creole beggar whose regular post is on the west corner of +the Central Market. This man is perhaps thirty-five or forty years of +age, and possesses a fine head, a handsome face, and piercing black +eyes. He is of small body, and his lower limbs are so withered as to +be entirely useless; so he sits with them curled up in a low, broad +basket, in which he is daily brought to the spot, locomotion in his +case being out of the question. He wears the cleanest of linen, and +his faultless cuffs and ruffled shirt-bosom are decked with solid gold +studs. He is bareheaded, but his thick black hair is carefully +dressed, and parted with mathematical precision in the middle. He +wears neither coat nor vest, but his lower garments are neatly adapted +to his deformity, and are of broadcloth. This man does not utter a +word, but extends his hand pleasantly, with an appealing look from his +handsome eyes, which often elicits a silver real from the passer-by. +We acknowledge to having been thus influenced more than once, in our +morning walks, by a sympathy which it would be difficult to analyze. +We had seen a colored dude selling canes at Nassau, but a dude +mendicant, and a cripple at that, was a physical anomaly. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from St. + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. + + +The first sugar plantation established in Cuba was in 1595, nearly +three hundred years since. These plantations are the least attractive +in external appearance, but the most profitable pecuniarily, of all +agricultural investments in the tropics, though at the present writing +there is a depression in prices of sugar which has brought about a +serious complication of affairs. The markets of the world have become +glutted with the article, owing to the enormous over-production in +Europe from the beet. The plantations devoted to the raising of the +sugar-cane in Cuba spread out their extensive fields, covered with the +corn-like stalks, without any relief to the eye, though here and there +the graceful feathery branches of the palm are seen. The fields are +divided off into squares of three or four acres each, between which a +roadway is left for ox-teams to pass for gathering purposes. On some +of the largest estates tramways have been laid, reaching from the +several sections of the plantation to the doors of the grinding-mill. +A mule, by this means, is enabled to draw as large a load as a pair +of oxen on plain ground, and with much more ease and promptness. + +About the houses of the owner and the overseer, graceful fruit trees, +such as bananas and cocoanuts, with some flowering and fragrant +plants, are grouped, forming inviting shade and producing a +picturesque effect. Not far away, the low cabins of the blacks are +half hidden by plantain and mango trees, surrounded by cultivated +patches devoted to yams, sweet potatoes, and the like. Some of the +small gardens planted by these dusky Africans showed judgment and +taste in their management. Chickens and pigs, which were the private +property of the negroes, were cooped up just behind the cabins. Many +of these plantations employ from four to five hundred blacks, and in +some instances the number will reach seven hundred on extensive +estates, though the tendency of the new and improved machinery is to +constantly reduce the number of hands required, and to increase the +degree of intelligence necessary in those employed. Added to these +employees there must also be many head of cattle,--oxen, horses, and +mules. The annual running expenditure of one of these large estates +will reach two hundred thousand dollars, more or less, for which +outlay there is realized, under favorable circumstances, a million +five hundred thousand pounds of sugar, worth, in good seasons, five +cents per pound at the nearest shipping point. + +There are a few of the small estates which still employ ox-power for +grinding the cane, but American steam-engines have almost entirely +taken the place of animal power; indeed, as we have shown, it will no +longer pay to produce sugar by the primitive processes. This creates +a constant demand for engineers and machinists, for whom the Cubans +depend upon this country. We were told that there were not less than +two hundred Bostonians at the present time thus engaged on Cuban +estates. A Spaniard or Creole would as soon attempt to fly like a bird +as to learn how to run a steam-engine or regulate a line of shafting. +It requires more intelligence and mechanical skill, as a rule, than +the most faithful slaves possess. A careful calculation shows that in +return for the services of this small band of employees taken from our +shores, this country takes eighty per cent. of all the sugar produced +upon the island! Twelve per cent. is consumed by peninsular Spain, +thus leaving but eight per cent. of this product for distribution +elsewhere. + +During the grinding season, which begins about the first of December +and ends in April, a large, well-managed sugar plantation in Cuba is a +scene of the utmost activity and most unremitting labor. Time is +doubly precious during the harvesting period, for when the cane is +ripe there should be no delay in expressing the juice. If left too +long in the field it becomes crystallized, deteriorating both in its +quality and in the amount of juice which is obtained. The oxen +employed often die before the season is at an end, from overwork +beneath a torrid sun. The slaves are allowed but four or five hours +sleep out of the twenty-four, and being worked by watches during the +night, the mill does not lie idle for an hour after it is started +until the grinding season is closed. If the slaves are thus driven +during this period, throughout the rest of the year their task is +comparatively light, and they may sleep ten hours out of the +twenty-four, if they choose. According to the Spanish slave +code,--always more or less of a dead letter,--the blacks can be kept +at work in Cuba only from sunrise to sunset, with an interval of two +hours for repose and food in the middle of the day. But this is not +regarded in the sugar harvest season, which period, after all, the +slaves do not seem so much to dread, for then they are granted more +privileges and are better fed, given more variety of food and many +other little luxuries which they are known to prize. + +On Sunday afternoons and evenings on most of the plantations the +slaves are given their time, and are permitted, even in the harvest +season, to amuse themselves after their own chosen fashion. On such +occasions the privilege is often improved by the blacks to indulge in +native African dances, crude and rude enough, but very amusing to +witness. The music for the dancers is supplied by a home-made drum, +and by that alone, the negro who plays it being to the lookers-on +quite as much of a curiosity as those who perform the grotesque +dances. This humble musician writhes, wriggles, twists himself like a +corkscrew, and all the while beats time, accompanying his notes with +cries and howls, reminding one of the Apache Indian when engaged in a +war dance. It is astonishing to witness to what a degree of excitement +this negro drummer will work himself up, often fairly frothing at the +mouth. A buxom wench and her mate step forward and perform a wild, +sensuous combination of movements, a sort of negro can-can, like those +dancing girls one sees in India, striving to express sentiments of +love, jealousy, and passion by their pantomime, though these negroes +are far less refined in their gestures. When these two are exhausted, +others take their place, with very similar movements. The same +drummer labors all the while, perspiring copiously, and seeming to get +his full share of satisfaction out of the queer performance. This is +almost their only amusement, though the Chinese coolies who have been +distributed upon the plantations have taught the negroes some of their +queer games, one, particularly, resembling dominoes. The author saw a +set of dominoes made out of native ebony wood by an African slave, +which were of finer finish than machinery turns out, delicately inlaid +with ivory from alligators' teeth, indicating the points upon each +piece. We were told that the only tool the maker had with which to +execute his delicate task was a rude jack-knife. We have said that the +negroes find in the singular dance referred to their one amusement, +but they sometimes engage among themselves in a game of ball, after a +fashion all their own, which it would drive a Yankee base-ball player +frantic to attempt to analyze. + +The sugar-cane yields but one crop in a year. There are several +varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally +cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to +warrant the getting-up of steam at the grinding-mill and the time when +the heat and the rain spoil its qualities, all the sugar for the +season must be made; hence the necessity for great industry on the +large estates. In Louisiana the grinding season lasts but about eight +weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar +produced on the island and comparing it with that of the +mainland,--the growth of Louisiana,--chemists could find no difference +as to the quality of the true saccharine principle contained in each. +The Cuban sugar, compared with beet-sugar, however, is said to yield +of saccharine matter one quarter more in any given quantity. + +In society the sugar planter holds a higher rank than the coffee +planter, as we have already intimated; merely in the scale of wealth, +however, for it requires five times the capital to carry on a sugar +estate that would serve for a coffee estate. Some of the large sugar +plantations have been owned and carried on by Jesuit priests--we were +about to write ex-Jesuit priests, but that would not be quite correct, +for once a member of this order one is bound to it for all time. The +priest or acknowledged member of the organization may be forced for +prudential reasons to temporarily change his occupation, but he cannot +sever himself from the responsibilities which he has once voluntarily +assumed. There was a time when much of the landed and fertile property +of the island was controlled by the Church,--in fact owned by it, +though often by very questionable titles. The original owners, under +cunning pressure, perhaps on a threatened death-bed, were induced to +will all to the Church; or as an act of deep penance for some crime +divulged at the confessional, they yielded up all. To preserve this +property and possibly to cause it to produce an income for the Church, +certain priests became active planters. Extreme ecclesiastic rule, as +has been said, is greatly modified in Spain and her colonies, the +natural reaction of the hateful days of the Inquisition. + +As the sugar plantation surpasses the coffee in wealth, so the coffee +estate surpasses the sugar in every natural beauty and attractiveness. +A coffee plantation, well and properly laid out, is one of the most +beautiful gardens that can well be conceived of, in its variety and +loveliness baffling description. An estate devoted to this purpose +usually covers a hundred acres, more or less, planted in regular +squares of one acre or thereabouts, intersected by broad alleys lined +with palms, mangoes, bananas, oranges, and other fruits; as the +coffee, unlike the sugar cane, requires partial protection from the +ardor of the sun. Mingled with the trees are lemons, limes, +pomegranates, Cape jasmines, and a species of wild heliotrope, +fragrant as the morning. Occasionally in the wide reach of the estate +there is seen a solitary, broad-spreading ceiba, in hermit-like +isolation from other trees, but shading a fragrant undergrowth. +Conceive of this beautiful arrangement, and then of the whole when in +flower; the coffee, with its milk-white blossoms, so abundant that it +seems as though a pure white cloud of snow had fallen there, and left +the rest of the vegetation fresh and green. Interspersed in these +fragrant alleys dividing the coffee plants is the red of the Mexican +rose, the flowering pomegranate, the yellow jasmine, and the large, +gaudy flower of the penon, shrouding its parent stem in a cloak of +scarlet. Here too are seen clusters of the graceful yellow flag, and +many wild flowers, unknown by name, entwining their tender stems about +the base of the fruit trees. In short, a coffee plantation is a +perfect floral paradise, full of fragrance and repose. + +The writer's experience was mainly gained at and about the estate of +the late Dr. Finley, a Scotch physician long resident upon the island. +He had named his plantation after the custom with a fancy title, and +called it Buena Esperanza. Here was seen the mignonette tree twenty +feet high, full of pale yellow and green blossoms, as fragrant as is +its little namesake, which we put in our conservatories. There were +also fuchsias, blue, red, yellow, and green, this last hue quite new +to us. The night-blooming cereus was in rank abundance, together with +the flor de pascua, or Easter flower, so lovely in its cream-colored, +wax-like blossom. The Indian poui, with its saffron-colored flowers, +was strikingly conspicuous, and there too was that pleasant little +favorite, the damask rose. It seemed as if all out-doors was an exotic +garden, full of marvelous beauty. What daily miracles nature is +performing under our only half-observant eyes! Behold, where the paths +intersect each other, a beautiful convolvulus has entwined itself +about that dead and decaying tree, clothing the gray old trunk with +pale but lovely flowers; just as we deck our human dead for the grave. + +It was the revolution in San Domingo which gave the first great +stimulus to the culture of the coffee plant in Cuba, an enterprise +which has gradually faded out in the last decade, though not +absolutely obliterated. The refugees from the opposite shore sought +shelter wherever they could find it among the nearest islands of the +Archipelago, and large numbers made their new homes in the eastern +department of Cuba, near the cities of Trinidad and Santiago. Here +they turned lands which had been idle for three and four centuries +into smiling gardens, and the production of the favorite berry became +very profitable for a series of years, many cargoes being shipped +annually to this country from the two ports just named. The production +of sugar, however, has always maintained precedence, dividing the +honor to-day only with tobacco in the manufactured state. Coffee does +not figure to any extent in the statistics of exports. Exorbitant +taxation and the cruel ravages of civil war, in the coffee districts +especially, are largely the cause of the loss of an important and +profitable industry. + +Some amusing experiments with a mimosa or sensitive plant served to +fill a leisure hour at Buena Esperanza, under our host's intelligent +direction. It grew wild and luxuriantly within a few feet of the broad +piazza of the country-house. Close by it was a morning-glory, which +was in remarkable fullness and freshness of bloom, its gay profuseness +of purple, pink, and variegated white making it indeed the glory of +the morning. It was a surprise to find the mimosa of such similar +habits with its neighbor, the morning-glory, regularly folding its +leaves and going to sleep when the shades of evening deepened, but +awaking bright and early with the first breath of the morn. So +sensitive is this most curious plant, so full of nerves, as our host +expressed it, that it would not only shrink instantly, like unveiled +modesty, at the touch of one's hand, but even at the near approach of +some special organisms, ere they had extended a hand towards it. Five +persons tried the experiment before the sixth illustrated the fact +that touch was not absolutely necessary to cause the leaves to shrivel +up or shrink through seeming fear. Our host even intimated that when +the mimosa had become familiar with a congenial person its timidity +would vanish, and it could be handled gently by that individual +without outraging its sensibility. Of this, however, we saw no +positive evidence. If Mr. Darwin had supplemented his chapters on the +monkey by a paper relating to the mimosa, he might possibly have +enabled us to find a mutual confirmation in them of some fine-spun +theory. + +The three great staple productions of Cuba are sugar, the sweetener; +coffee, the tonic; and tobacco, the narcotic of half the world. The +first of these, as we have shown, is the greatest source of wealth, +having also the preference as to purity and excellence over any other +saccharine production. Its manufacture also yields molasses, which +forms an important article of export, besides which a spirituous +liquor, called aguardiente, is distilled in considerable quantities +from the molasses. The cane, which grows to about the size of a large +walking-stick, or well-developed cornstalk, is cut off near the ground +and conveyed in the green state, though it is called ripe, to the +mill, where it is crushed to a complete pulp between stones or iron +rollers. After the juice is thus extracted the material left is spread +out in the sun to dry, and is after being thus "cured" used for fuel +beneath the steam-boilers, which afford both power to the engine and +the means of boiling the juice. Lime-water is employed to neutralize +any free acid as well as to separate the vegetable matter. The +granulation and crystallization are effected in large flat pans, or +now more commonly by centrifugal machines, rotating at great speed. It +is then crushed and packed either in hogsheads or in boxes for +exportation; canvas bags are also being largely employed, as they are +easier to pack on board ship, and also to handle generally. A +plantation is renewed when deemed necessary, by laying the green canes +horizontally in the ground, when new and vigorous shoots spring up +from every joint, showing the great fertility of the soil. + +Coffee was introduced by the French into Martinique in 1727, but it +did not make its appearance in Cuba until forty years later, or, to be +exact, in 1769. The decadence of this branch of agriculture is due +not only to the causes we have already named, but also to the inferior +mode of cultivation adopted on the island. It was predicted some years +before it commenced, and when the crash came the markets of the world +were also found to be greatly overstocked with the article. While some +planters introduced improved methods and economy in the conduct of +their estates, others abandoned the business altogether, and turned +their fields either into sugar-raising, fruits or tobacco. Precisely +the same trouble was experienced in the island of Ceylon, which was at +one time a great coffee-raising centre, but now its planters are many +of them abandoning the business, while others adopt new seed and new +methods of culture. In Cuba it was found that the plants had been +grown too closely together and subjected to too close pruning, while +the product, which was gathered by hand, yielded a mixture of ripe and +unripe berries. In the countries where coffee originated, a very +different method of harvesting is adopted. The Arabs plant the +coffee-shrubs much farther apart, allow them to grow to considerable +height, and gather the crop by shaking the tree, a method which +secures only the ripe berries. After a few weeks, or even days, the +field is gone over a second time, when the green berries have become +fit to gather, and readily fall to the ground. + +A coffee estate well managed, that is, combined with the rearing of +fruits and vegetables intermingled, thus affording the required shade +for the main crop, proves fairly profitable in Cuba to-day, and were +this industry not hampered and handicapped by excessive taxes, it +would attract many new planters. The coffee ripens from August to +December, the nuts then becoming about the size of our cherries. The +coffee-berry is the seed of the fruit, two of which are contained in +each kernel, having their flat surfaces together, surrounded by a soft +pulp. The ripe berries are dried by exposure to the sun's rays, then +bruised in a mill, by which means the seeds are separated from the +berry. They are then screened to cleanse them, after which they are +bagged, and the coffee is ready for market. Some planters take great +care to sort their crop by hand, in which operation the negro women +become very expert. By dividing the berries into first and second +qualities as to size and cleanliness, a better aggregated price is +realized for the entire harvest. Not only are the coffee estates much +more pleasing to the eye than the sugar plantations, but they are also +much more in harmony with the feelings of the philanthropist. There is +here no such exigency in getting in the harvest, leading to the +overwork of the slaves, as on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +Indeed, we were assured that it was quite possible to carry on a +coffee estate with white labor. When, heretofore, a negro has been +brought to the block in Havana, or any other Cuban city, the price +realized for him has always been materially affected by the question +whether he had been employed on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +If he had been thus employed it was considered that his life has been +unduly shortened, and he sold accordingly at a lower price. At the +present time few negroes are bought or sold, as their market value has +become merely nominal. There is no good reason why white labor is not +suited to the coffee and tobacco estates. When the field labor upon +the sugar estates is almost wholly performed by machinery, that is, +the cane cut by a reaper, there will be so much less exposure to the +sun that white hands, under proper management, can perform it. + +Tobacco, indigenous to both Cuba and the United States, is a great +source of revenue upon the island. Its cultivation involves +considerable labor and expense, as the soil must be carefully chosen +and prepared, and the crop is an exhaustive one to the land; but the +cultivation does not require machinery, like sugar-cane, nor quite so +much care as does the growing coffee. It is valued in accordance with +the locality from which it comes, some sections being especially +adapted to its production. That of the greatest market value, and used +in the manufacture of the highest-cost cigars, is grown in the most +westerly division of the island, known as the Vuelta de Abajo (Lower +Valley). The whole western portion of Cuba is not by any means +suitable to the production of tobacco. The region of the best tobacco +is comprised within a small parallelogram of very limited extent. +Beyond this, up to the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine +color, but of inferior aroma. From Consolacion to San Christoval the +tobacco is very "hot,"--to use a local phrase,--harsh, and strong, and +from San Christoval to Guanajay the quality is inferior up to Holguin +y Cuba, where better tobacco is produced. The fertile valley of Los +Guines produces poor smoking-tobacco, but an article excellent for the +manufacture of snuff. On the banks of the Rio San Sebastian, are also +some estates which produce the very best quality of tobacco. Thus +it will be seen that certain properties of soil operate more directly +in producing a fine grade of tobacco than any slight variation of +climate. Possibly a chemical analysis of the soil of the Vuelta de +Abajo would enable the intelligent cultivator to supply to other lands +the ingredients wanted to make them produce equally good tobacco. A +fairly marketable article, however, is grown in nearly any part of the +island. Its cultivation is thought to produce a full ten per cent. +upon the capital invested, the annual crop of Cuba being estimated in +value at about twenty-three million dollars. The number of tobacco +planters is said to be about fifteen thousand, large and small. On +many tobacco farms the labor is nearly all performed by white hands. +Some coolies and some negroes are also employed even on small estates. + +When it is remembered that so small a portion of the land is under +cultivation, and yet that Cuba exports annually a hundred million +dollars worth of sugar and molasses, besides coffee, tobacco, fruits, +and precious woods, it will be realized what might be accomplished, +under a liberal system of government, upon this gem of the Caribbean +Sea. Cacao, rice, plantains, indigo, and cotton, besides Indian corn +and many nutritious vegetables, might be profitably cultivated to a +much larger degree than is now done. It is a curious and remarkable +fact, suggesting a striking moral, that with the inexhaustible +fertility of the soil, with an endless summer that gives the laborer +two and even three crops a year, agriculture generally yields in Cuba +a lower percentage of profit than in our stern Northern latitudes, +where the farmer has to wrench, as it were, the half-reluctant crop +from the ground. It must be remembered that in Cuba there are numerous +fruits and vegetables not enumerated in these pages, which do not +enter into commerce, and which spring spontaneously from the fertile +soil. In the possession of a thrifty population the island would be +made to blossom like a rose, but as it now is, it forms only a garden +growing wild, cultivated here and there in patches. None of the fine +natural fruits have ever been improved by careful culture and the +intelligent selection of kinds, so that in many respects they will not +compare in perfection with our average strawberries, plums, pears, and +peaches. Their unfulfilled possibilities remain to be developed by +intelligent treatment. + +The plantain, which may be said to be the bread of the common people, +requires to be planted but once. The stem bears freely, like the +banana of the same family, at the end of eight months, and then +withering to the ground renews itself again from the roots. Sweet +potatoes once planted require care only to prevent their too great +luxuriance, and for this purpose a plough is passed through them +before the wet season, and as many of the vines as can be freely +plucked up are removed from the field. The sugar-cane, on virgin soil, +will last and prove productive for twenty years. The coffee shrub or +tree will bear luxuriantly for forty or fifty years. The cocoanut palm +is peculiar to all tropical climates, and in Cuba, as in the Malacca +Straits and India, bears an important share in sustaining the life of +the people, supplying milk, shade, and material for a hundred domestic +uses. It grows in luxuriant thriftiness all over the island, in high +and low land, in forests, and down to the very shore washed by the +Gulf Stream. It is always graceful and picturesque, imparting an +oriental aspect to everything which surrounds it. It is estimated +that over ten million acres of native forests, covered by valuable +wood, still remain untouched by the woodman's axe, especially on and +about the mountain range, which extends nearly the entire length of +the island, like the vertebræ of an immense whale. + +About the coffee plantations, and indeed throughout the rural portions +of the country, there is a curious little insect called a cocuyo, +answering in its general characteristics and nature to our firefly, +though it is quadruple its size, and far the most brilliant insect of +its kind known to naturalists. They float in phosphorescent clouds +over the vegetation, emitting a lurid halo, like fairy torch-bearers +to elfin crews. One at first sight is apt to compare them to a shower +of stars. They come in multitudes immediately after the wet season +sets in, prevailing more or less, however, all the year round. Their +advent is always hailed with delight by the slave children, as well as +by children of a larger growth. They are caught by the slaves in any +desired numbers and confined in tiny cages of wicker, giving them +sufficient light in their cabins at night for ordinary purposes, and +forming the only artificial light permitted them. We have seen a +string of the little cages containing the glittering insects hung in a +slave-cabin in festoons, like colored lamps in fancy-goods stores in +America. The effect of the evanescent light thus produced is very +peculiar, but the number of insects employed insures a sufficiently +steady effect for ordinary purposes. These little creatures are +brought into Havana by young Creole children and by women, for sale to +the ladies, who sometimes in the evenings wear a small cage hung to +the wrist containing a few of the cocuyos, and the light thus produced +is nearly equal to a small candle. Some ladies wear a belt of them at +night, ingeniously fastened about the waist, others a necklace, and +the effect is highly amusing. In the ballroom they are worn in the +flounces of ladies' dresses, where they glisten very much like +diamonds and other precious stones. Strange to say, there is a natural +hook near the head of the firefly, by which it can be attached to the +dress without apparent injury to it. The town ladies keep little cages +of these insects as pets, feeding them on sugar, of which they appear +to be immoderately fond. On the plantations, when a fresh supply is +desired, one has only to wait until evening, when hundreds can be +secured with a thread net at the end of a pole. By holding a cocuyo up +in the out-door air for a few moments, large numbers are at once +attracted to the spot. In size they are about an inch long, and a +little over an eighth of an inch in breadth. + +There is an insidious and much dreaded insect with which the planters +have to contend on the sugar and coffee plantations, but which is not +met with in the cities; namely, the red ant, a much more formidable +foe than any one not acquainted with its ravages would believe. These +little creatures possess a power altogether out of proportion to their +insignificant size, eating into the heart of the hardest wood, neither +cedar, iron-wood, nor even lignum-vitæ being proof against them. They +are not seen at the surface, as they never touch the outer shell of +the wood whose heart they are consuming. A beam or rafter which has +been attacked by them looks as good as when new, to the casual +observer, until it is sounded and found to be hollow, a mere shell in +fact. Even in passing from one piece of timber to another, the red +ant does so by covered ways, and is thus least seen when most busy. +The timbers of an entire roof have been found hollowed out and +deprived entirely of their supporting strength without the presence of +the insect enemy being even suspected until chance betrayed the +useless character of the supports. For some unknown reason, upright +timbers are rarely attacked by them, but those in a reclining or +horizontal position are their choice. These destructive red ants are +nearly always to be found in tropical countries, as in India, Batavia, +and Sumatra, where they build mounds in the jungle half the size of +the natives' cabins. They may be seen marching like an invading army +in columns containing myriads across the fields of southern India. + +The interior landscape, more particularly of the middle district of +the island, is here and there ornamented by fine specimens of the +ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, which is often seen a hundred feet in +height, with stout and widespread branches, giving the idea of great +firmness and stability. It sends up a massive sinewy trunk for some +fifty feet, when it divides into branches covered with a dense canopy +of leaves, expanded like an umbrella, and forming a perfect shade +against the power of the torrid sun. The ceiba is slow of growth, but +attains to great age, specimens thriving when Columbus first landed +here being, as we were assured, still extant. Next to the royal palm, +it is the most remarkable of all the trees which loom up beneath the +brilliant purple skies of Cuba. The negroes have a superstition that +the ceiba is a magic tree haunted by spirits, a singular notion also +shared by the colored people of Nassau, though these two islands are +so many hundreds of miles apart and have never had any natural +connection. There is certainly something weird in the loneliness and +solitary grandeur of the tree. Next to the palm and ceiba in beauty +and picturesqueness of effect is the tamarind tree, with its deep +green and delicate foliage, presenting a singular and curious aspect +when thickly looped on every branch with hanging chocolate-colored +pods. + +Under the noonday sun, sitting in the deep shade of some lofty ceiba, +one may watch with curious eyes the myriads of many-hued, broad-winged +butterflies, mingling orange, crimson, and steel-blue in dazzling +combinations, as they flit through the ambient atmosphere with a +background of shining, evergreen foliage, the hum of insects and the +carol of birds forming a soft lullaby inviting sleep. Naturalists tell +us that no less than three hundred distinct species of butterflies are +found in Cuba, ranging in size from a common house-fly to a +humming-bird. The day dies with a suddenness almost startling, so that +one passes from sunshine to starlight as if by magic. Then the cocuyo +takes up the activity of insect life, flashing its miniature torches +over the plantations, and peeping out from among the dense foliage, +while the stars sing their evening hymn of silent praise. + +The Cubans have a peculiar mode of harnessing their oxen, similar to +that seen in the far East and also in some parts of Europe, as at San +Sebastian, on the Bay of Biscay. A stout wooden bar is placed at the +root of the horns, and so securely bound to them with thongs that the +animal draws, or rather pushes, by the head and frontlet, without +chafing. The Cuban oxen have a hole pierced in their nostrils, through +which a metallic ring is secured, and to this a rope is attached, +serving as reins with which to guide the animal. This mode of +harnessing certainly seems to enable the oxen to bring more strength +to bear upon the purpose for which they are employed than when the +yoke is placed, as is the case with us, about the throat and +shoulders. The greatest power of horned animals undoubtedly lies in +the head and neck, and the question arises whether in placing the yoke +on the neck and breast we do not get it out of reach of the exercise +of that strength, and cause the animal to draw the load behind him by +the mere force of his bodily weight and impetus. The West Indian +animal is small, and often of the cream-colored breed, mild-eyed and +docile, of which one sees such choice specimens in Italy and +especially on the plains of Lombardy. + +Not quite satisfied with the conclusion first arrived at, we gave this +subject of the harnessing of oxen a second consideration, and in +carefully watching the operation of the frontlet-bar we detected at +least one very cruel and objectionable feature in this mode of +harnessing. The animals are necessarily so bound to the bar that to +move their heads one way or the other is a simple impossibility, while +our mode of yoking oxen leaves them very much at liberty in the use of +their heads, thus enabling them to shake off flies and other biting +insects which may tease them, whereas the eyes of a Cuban ox are often +seen infested with flies which he cannot get rid of while in harness, +however he may be beset by them. This alone, in a climate where biting +insects swarm all the year round, is a most serious objection to the +frontlet-bar as compared with the yoke. + +The Cuban horse deserves more than a mere mention in this connection. +He is a remarkably valuable animal, especially adapted to the climate +and to the service required of him. Though small and delicate of limb +he can carry a great weight, and his gait is not unlike that of our +pacing horses, though with much less lateral motion, and is remarkably +easy for the rider, certainly forming the easiest gait combined with +rapidity of motion possessed by any breed. He has great power of +endurance, is a small eater, requiring no grain as a general thing, +but is satisfied with the green leaves and stalks of the corn, upon +which he keeps in good condition and flesh. He is a docile little +creature, easily taught and easily taken care of. The Cuban horse +knows no shelter except the heavens above him, for there are no barns +in Cuba; but he will no more wander away from his master's door, where +he stands at nearly all hours of the day with the saddle on his back, +than would a favorite dog. The Montero inherits all the love of his +Moorish ancestors for the horse, and never stirs abroad except upon +his back. He considers himself established for life when he possesses +a good horse, a sharp Toledo blade, and a pair of silver spurs. Being +from childhood accustomed to the saddle, it is natural for him to be a +good rider, and there are none better even in Arabia. He is apt to +tell big stories about his little horse, intimating its descent direct +from the Kochlani, or King Solomon's breed, and to endow it with +marvelous qualities of speed and endurance. The Montero is never heard +to boast of his wife, his children, or any other possession, but he +does "blow" for his horse. + +One of this class stood beside his pony one warm afternoon opposite +the Hotel Telegrafo, where a few of the guests were seated under the +broad veranda. The sleek, well-formed animal elicited some +complimentary remarks, which gratified the owner, who spoke English +after the style of his people. He indulged in praises of the horse, +especially as to the ease and steadiness of his gait, and offered a +bet that he could ride round the outside of the Campo de Marte on him +and return to the spot where he stood, at ordinary speed, carrying a +full glass of water without spilling a tablespoonful of the liquid; +such is the ease of motion of these animals trained to what is called +the paso gualtrapeo. Four corners were to be turned by the Cuban, as +well as half a mile of distance accomplished. The small bet suggested +was readily taken, and the full tumbler of water brought out of the +house. The Cuban mounted his pony and rode round the park with the +speed of a bird, easily winning his bet. + +The visitor, as he proceeds inland, will frequently observe on the +fronts of the dwellings attempts at representations in colors of birds +and various animals, resembling anything rather than what they are +apparently designed to depict. The most striking characteristics are +the gaudy coloring and the remarkable size. Pigeons present the +colossal appearance of ostriches, and dogs are exceedingly elephantine +in their proportions. Space would not be adequate to picture horses +and cattle. Especially in the suburbs of the cities this fancy may be +observed, where attempts at portraying domestic scenes present some +original ideas as to grouping. If such ludicrous objects were to be +met with anywhere else but in Cuba they would be called caricatures. +Here they are regarded with the utmost complacency, and innocently +considered to be artistic and ornamental. Noticing something of the +same sort in Vevay, Switzerland, not long since, the author found on +inquiry that it was the incipient art effort of a Spanish Creole, who +had wandered thither from the island. + +The policy of the home government has been to suppress, so far as +possible, all knowledge of matters in general relating to Cuba; +especially to prevent the making public of any statistical information +regarding the internal resources, all accounts of its current growth, +prosperity, or otherwise. Rigidly-enforced rules accomplished this +seclusiveness for many years, until commercial relations with the +"outside barbarians" rendered this no longer possible. No official +chart of Havana, its harbor, or that of any other Cuban city has ever +been made public. Spain has seemed to desire to draw a curtain before +this tropical jewel, lest its dazzling brightness should tempt the +cupidity of some other nation. Notwithstanding this, our war +department at Washington contains complete drawings of every important +fortification, and charts of every important harbor in Cuba. Since +1867 we have been connected with Cuba by submarine cable, and through +her with Jamaica since 1870. The local government exercises, however, +strict surveillance over telegraphic communications. + +The political condition of Cuba is what might be expected of a +Castilian colony, ruled and governed by such a policy as prevails +here. Like the home government, she presents a remarkable instance of +the standstill policy, and from one of the most powerful and wealthy +kingdoms of Europe, Spain has sunk to the position of the humblest and +poorest. Other nations have labored and succeeded in the race of +progress, while her adherence to ancient institutions and her +dignified contempt for "modern innovations" have become a species of +retrogression, which has placed her far below all her sister +governments. The true Hidalgo spirit, which wraps itself up in an +antique garb and shrugs its shoulders at the advance of other nations, +still rules over the realm of Ferdinand and Isabella, while its +high-roads swarm with gypsies and banditti, as tokens of decaying +power. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of St. Domingo. -- General Emancipation. + + +The consumption of tobacco in the form of cigars is almost incredibly +large in Cuba, and for the city of Havana alone it has been estimated +to amount to an aggregate cost of five million dollars per annum. +Every man, woman, and child appears to be addicted to the habit. It +strikes a Northerner as rather odd for a lady to sit smoking her +cigarette in her parlor, but this is not at all rare. The men of all +degrees smoke everywhere, in the dwelling-house, in the street, in the +theatre, in the cafés, and in the counting-room; eating, drinking, +and truly it would also seem, sleeping, they smoke, smoke, smoke. At +the tables d'hôte of the hotels it is not unusual to see a Cuban take +a few whiffs of a cigarette between the several courses, and lights +are burning close at hand to enable him to do so. If a party of +gentlemen are invited to dine together, the host so orders that a +packet of the finest cigarettes is frequently passed to his guests, +with a lighted taper, in the course of the meal, and at its close some +favorite brand of the more substantial cigar is furnished to all. +Thus, tobacco is consumed on every occasion, in the council-chamber, +the court, at funerals, in the domestic circles, at feasts, and on the +out-door drive. The slave and his master, the maid and her mistress, +boy and man, all, all smoke. It seems odd that one does not scent +Havana far out at sea before the land is sighted. + +We were told that gentlemen who have the means to procure them smoke +on an average what is equivalent to a dozen cigars per day, and those +of the other sex addicted to the habit consume half that quantity. Of +late the larger proportion, however, takes the form of cigarettes, +which are far more subtle in effect when used to excess. The +consequence of this large home consumption, in addition to the export +of the article, is that a very numerous class of the population is +engaged in the manufacture, and little stores devoted solely to this +business are plentifully sprinkled all about the metropolis. The +imperial factory of La Honradez, already described, occupies a whole +city square, and is one of its curiosities, producing from three to +four million cigarettes per diem. This house enjoys special +governmental protection, and makes its annual contribution to the +royal household of Madrid of the best of its manufactured goods. A +snuff-taker is rarely to be met with, and few, if any, chew the weed, +if we except the stevedores and foreign sailors to be seen about the +shore and shipping. Havana has no wharves, properly speaking; vessels +are loaded and discharged by means of lighters or scows. The negroes +become passionately fond of the pipe, inhaling into their lungs the +rich, powerful narcotic and driving it out again at their nostrils in +slow, heavy clouds, half dozing over the dreamy effect. The postilion +who waits for a fare upon the street passes half his time in this way, +dreaming over his pipe of pure Havana, or renewing constantly his +cigarette. The price of manufactured tobacco in Cuba is about one half +that which we pay for the same article in America, either at wholesale +or retail, as shipping expenses, export duty, and import duty must be +added to the price charged to the consumer. + +In discussing this habit one naturally looks back about four hundred +years, recalling the amazement of the Spanish discoverers, when they +first landed here, at seeing the Indians smoking a native weed which +was called tobacco. The practice was, at that time, entirely unknown +in Europe, though now indulged in as a luxury by nearly half the +population of the globe. + +We have only a partial idea at the North of the true character of +tropical fruits, since only a small portion of them are of such a +nature as to admit of exportation, and such as are forwarded to us +must be gathered in an unripe condition in order to survive a short +sea-voyage. The orange which we eat in Boston or New York, therefore, +is a very different-flavored fruit from the same when partaken of in +Havana or Florida. The former has been picked green and ripened on +shipboard, as a general thing; the latter was perhaps on the tree an +hour before you ate it, ripened under its native skies and upon its +parent stem. So of the banana, one of the most delightful and +nutritious of all West Indian fruits, which grows everywhere in Cuba +with prodigal profuseness,--though we are told that as regards this +fruit it is claimed that, like some varieties of our pear, it ripens +as well off the tree as on it; and the same is the case with some +other fleshy fruits. After the banana has attained its full growth, +the final process of ripening commences, as it were, within itself; +that is to say, the fruit ceases to depend upon the tree for +sustenance or farther development. The pulp becomes gradually +sweetened and softened, chiefly by the change of the starch into more +or less of soluble sugar. When the bananas are shipped to our Northern +markets they are as green as the leaves of the trees on which they +grew. Most of us have seen cartloads of them in this condition landing +at our city wharves. Placed in an even temperature and in darkness +they will ripen and become as yellow as gold in a very few days. + +The banana and plantain differ from each other much as an apple and a +potato differ; the latter should always be cooked before eating, but +the former may be either eaten raw or cooked, according to the taste. +The banana is gathered at three different stages of its growth. At a +quarter of its maturity it is rather milky, and contains much starch. +Roasted in ashes, or boiled in water, it forms a very nourishing food, +and is a good substitute for bread. If eaten at three fourths of its +growth it is less nourishing, but contains more sugar. Lastly, when +perfectly ripe, it develops an acrid principle, both wholesome and +palatable. The fig banana is a favorite species, and forms a universal +dessert in the ripe state with the Creoles. A frequent reference is +made to it in these notes because of its importance. The enormous +productiveness of the plant and its nutritious character assure to the +humble classes an abundant subsistence. People may go freely into the +wild lands and find edible bananas at any time, without money and +without price. In the cities the charge for them is so moderate that a +person must be poor indeed who cannot afford a liberal quantity of +them daily. + +Some of the other fruits are the mango, pomegranate, pineapple, +zapota, tamarind, citron, fig, cocoa, lemon, rose-apple, and +breadfruit. Japan, India, and Ceylon afford nothing more fascinating +or strange in their vegetable kingdoms than this favored isle. The +fruits are simply wonderful in variety and perfection. One eats eggs, +custard, and butter off the trees. Though all these fruits are +universally eaten, the orange seems to be the Creole's favorite, and +if he be a person of even ordinary means, he seldom rises in the +morning until he has drunk his cup of coffee and eaten a couple of +oranges, brought fresh and prepared for him by a servant. The practice +is one into which the visitor falls very pleasantly, and finds it no +less refreshing than agreeable. It seems to rain oranges in Havana. +They are scarcely less cheap than the luscious banana. + +The rose-apple grows on one of the most symmetrical trees in Cuba, +with strong, oval, glossy leaves. The blossoms are large, white, and +of pleasant odor, followed by a round fruit about as large as a +well-developed California peach, with a smooth skin, cream-colored +within and without. The pulp is as firm as a ripe seckel pear, and the +taste is so strong of otto-of-rose that more than one at a time palls +upon the palate. It is much used among the Cubans as an agreeable +flavoring for soups and puddings. Of the fruit trees the lemon is +perhaps the most attractive to the eye; for though small and dwarfish, +yet it presents the flowers, small green lemons, and the ripe yellow +fruit all together, reminding one of the Eastern alma. The green +leaves when young are nearly as fragrant as the lemon verbena. + +The mammee is a curious fruit growing on lofty, umbrageous trees, +appearing as musk-melons would look if seen hanging in elm-trees. +Large and high-flavored, the fruit is solid in texture like the +American quince. The flavor of the mammee resembles our peach, though +not quite so delicate. Its color when ripe is a light yellow. + +The mango is nearly as abundant and prolific as the banana, and yet it +came originally from the far East. It grows upon a very handsome tree, +the leaves being long, lanceolate, polished, and hanging in dense +masses of dark-green foliage. In size it is like a full-grown New +England apple tree. The mango is about thrice the size of an egg plum, +and when ripe is yellow in color, and grows in long pendant bunches. +When this fruit is at its best it is very juicy, and may be sucked +away like a grape. The negroes are immoderately fond of it, and when +permitted to do so are apt to make themselves ill by their greediness. + +The cocoa-nut tree grows to the height of fifty feet and more, +differing from the royal palm by its drooping nature. At its summit is +a waving tuft of dark green, glossy, pinnate leaves, from ten to +fifteen feet in length, like mammoth plumes, immediately under which +are suspended the nuts in heavy bunches, often weighing three hundred +pounds. When the nut has attained nearly its full size, it is said to +be in the milk, and it then furnishes a delightful, cooling, and +healthful beverage. In taste it is sweetish, and its effect is that of +a slight diuretic. + +The sapotilla is a noble fruit tree, with feathery, glossy leaves. The +blossoms are white and bell-shaped, with an agreeable perfume like an +apple-blossom. The fruit is round, about the size of a peach, the +skin being rough and dark like a russet apple or a potato, but when +fully ripe it is delicious, and melts away in the mouth like a +custard. + +The pineapple, that king of fruits, though in itself presenting such a +fine appearance, is the plainest of all in its humble manner of +growth. It is found wild in Cuba, and there are several varieties +cultivated, none quite equal, it seemed to us, to those found in +Singapore and other equatorial islands. Its style of growth is the +same in either hemisphere. It grows singly upon its low stem, reaching +to a height of eighteen or twenty inches above the ground. A single +fruit-stem pushes up from the earth, blossoms, and in about eighteen +months from the planting it matures a single apple, weighing three or +four pounds and upwards; and what a royal fruit it is! A field well +covered with the yellow, ripening apples is a very beautiful sight. +Though the plant produces but one apple at a time, it will continue to +yield an annual crop for three or four years, if cultivated. It is +raised from slips, planted much as our farmers set out young cabbages +or lettuce. + +The custard-apple grows wild, but is also cultivated and thereby much +improved. Its color externally is green, and it has a tough skin, is +of a subacid flavor, and as full of little flat black seeds as a shad +is of bones. It is much used in Cuba for flavoring purposes, and is +soft and juicy, each specimen weighing from a pound to a pound and a +half. The star-apple is so called because when cut through +transversely its centre presents the figure of a star. Even when quite +ripe the interior is green in color. Its flavor is exquisite, like +strawberries and cream, and it is eaten with a spoon, the outside +skin forming as it were a shell or cup. + +The guava tree is small and resembles our young cherry trees. The +fruit is about the size of the lime, which it much resembles. It is +made little use of in its natural condition, but is in universal +demand as a preserve; the jelly made from it is famous all over the +world. When it is freshly cut, one will scent a whole room for hours +with its distinctive flavor. + +The pomegranate, a general favorite in the torrid zone, flourishes in +Cuba, but is seen in much greater perfection in Africa. It is doubtful +if it is indigenous here, though it is now found in such abundance, +and as much depended upon for a food supply as apples are with us. +Doubtless the reader has seen the bush in bearing in our hothouses, +the fruit when cut being full of red seeds glistening like rubies. + +The tamarind is a universal and thrifty tree in the island, lofty and +umbrageous, a quick grower and yet long-lived. The fruit is contained +in a pod,--like a full, ripe pea-pod,--covering mahogany-colored +seeds. The pulp when ripe and fresh is as soft as marmalade, and quite +palatable; its flavor is sugared acid. Steeped in water it forms a +delightful and cooling beverage, much used as a drink in the tropics. + +The orange, lime, lemon, and citron are too well known to require +detailed description. The wild or bitter orange is much used for +hedges: its deep green glossy foliage and its fragrant blossoms and +its golden fruit make such hedges strikingly effective. The rind of +the bitter orange is used to make a sweetmeat with which we are all +familiar. + +More than once the Moorish garden of the Alcazar, at Seville, and the +garden of Hesperides, at Cannes, were recalled in hours of delightful +wanderings among the orange groves of Cuba. Yet these latter are +neglected, or at least not generously cultivated, no such care being +given to them as is bestowed upon the orange orchards of Florida; but +the glowing sun and ardent breath of the tropics ask little aid from +the hand of man in perfecting their products. The fruits and flowers +of the American Archipelago--"air-woven children of light"--are not +only lavishly prolific, but perfect of their kind. No wonder that +scientists and botanists become poetical in their descriptions of +these regions. + +The royal palm, so often alluded to, grows to the height of seventy +feet, more or less. It is singular that it should have no substance in +the interior of its trunk, though the outside to the thickness of a +couple of inches makes the finest of boards, and when seasoned is so +hard as to turn a board-nail at a single stroke of the hammer. It is +remarkable also that a palm tree which grows so high has such tiny, +thread-like roots, which, however, are innumerable. The top of the +palm yields a vegetable which is used as food and when boiled is +nutritious and palatable, resembling our cauliflower. Though there are +many species of palm in Cuba, one seldom sees the fan-palm, which +forms such a distinctive feature in equatorial regions as at Penang +and Singapore. + +Humboldt thought that the entire island was once a forest of palms, +mingled with lime and orange trees. The mulberry tree, if not +indigenous, was found here at so early a period that it is a matter of +doubt as to its having been imported from other lands. It grows to +great perfection, and has led to several attempts in the direction of +silk-raising, the silkworm also proving more prolific even than in +Japan. Some of the fine, hard fancy woods of Cuba were employed in the +finish of apartments in the Escurial palace near Madrid. Ebony, +rosewood, fustic, lancewood, mahogany, and other choice woods are very +abundant, especially the mahogany, which grows to enormous size. The +exportation of them has only taken place where these woods were best +located for river transportation to harbors on the coast. The interior +of the island is so inaccessible that it has hardly been explored. +There are fertile valleys there of two hundred miles in length and +thirty in width, with an average temperature of 75°, a maximum of 88°, +and a minimum of 52°, thus affording a most perfect and healthful +climate, favorable to human and to vegetable life, and it should be +remembered that malarial diseases or yellow fever are unknown in the +districts removed from the coast, and no one ever heard of sunstroke +in Cuba. + +It is somewhat remarkable that there should be no poisonous animals or +reptiles in the island, but so we were creditably informed. Snakes of +various species abound, but are considered entirely harmless, though +they are sometimes destructive to domestic fowls. During a pleasant +trip between San Antonio and Alquizar in a volante with a hospitable +planter of that region, this subject happened to be under discussion, +when we saw in the roadway a snake six or eight feet long, and as +large round as the middle of one's arm. On pointing it out to our +friend, he merely told us its species, and declared that a child might +sleep with it unharmed. In the mean time it was a relief to see the +innocent creature hasten to secrete itself in a lime hedge close at +hand. Lizards, tarantulas, and chameleons are frequently seen, but +are considered to be harmless. One often awakes in the morning to see +lizards upon his chamber wall, searching for flies and insects, upon +which they feed. + +The Cuban bloodhound, of which we hear so much, is not a native of the +island, but belongs to an imported breed, resembling the English +mastiff, though with larger head and limbs. He is by nature a fierce, +bloodthirsty animal, but the particular qualities which fit him for +tracing the runaway slaves are almost entirely acquired by careful +training. This is accomplished by experts in the business, who are +sometimes Monteros, and sometimes French overseers of plantations who +are out of work or regular engagement. Each estate keeps some of these +dogs as a precautionary measure, but they are seldom called into use +of late, for so certain is the slave that he will be instantly +followed as soon as missed, and inevitably traced by the hounds, that +he rarely attempts to escape from his master unless under some +peculiarly aggravating cause. It may even be doubted whether a slave +would be pursued to-day were he to attempt to escape, because slavery +is so very near its last gasp. In one respect this is an advantage to +the negroes, since the master, feeling this indifference, grants the +blacks more freedom of action. So perfect of scent is the Cuban +bloodhound that the master has only to obtain a bit of clothing left +behind by the runaway and give it to the hound to smell. The dog will +then follow the slave through a whole population of his class, and +with his nose to the ground lead straight to his hiding-place. + +For three centuries Cuba has been the hotbed of African slavery. Few, +if any, have been imported during the last thirty years, that is to +say since 1855, during which year some cargoes were successfully run. +In 1816, the Spanish government, in a solemn treaty, declared its +conviction of the injustice of the slave trade. On the 23d of +September, 1817, in consideration of four hundred thousand pounds +sterling paid as an equivalent by Great Britain, Spain ratified a +treaty proclaiming that the slave trade should cease throughout all +the dominions of that country on the 30th day of May, 1820, and that +it should not afterwards be lawful for any Spanish subject to purchase +slaves. It was further declared by the home government that all blacks +brought from Africa subsequent to that date should be at once set +free, and the vessel on which they were transported should be +confiscated, while the captain, crew, and others concerned should be +punished with ten years' penal servitude. Yet, as all the world knows, +this was nothing more than a dead letter so far as Cuba was concerned, +and so late as 1845, statistics show an arrival of imported slaves +from Africa of fifteen thousand negroes annually, for the previous +twenty years. Tacon, Governor-General from June, 1834, until April, +1838, like his predecessors and successors made no secret of receiving +seventeen dollars per head,--that is one doubloon,--on every slave +landed. Other officials spent their fees on themselves or hoarded them +for a fortune to be enjoyed on returning home to Spain, but Tacon +expended his in beautifying Havana and its environs. That the home +government secretly fostered the slave trade, notwithstanding the +solemn treaty entered into with Great Britain, no one pretends to +deny. + +The coolie system, which was latterly substituted for that of the +importation of Africans, was commenced in 1847, but it was only +slavery under another form, being in point of humanity even more +objectionable. Fully seventy per cent. of the Chinese coolies died +during the eight years they were bound by their contract to serve +their masters! Even after that period was completed, unjust laws and +schemes were adopted to retain their services whenever the planters +desired it; but the truth is, the planters, after a thorough +experience, were generally glad to get rid of the Mongolians. All of +them were decoyed from home under false pretenses and large promises, +and only arrived in Cuba to find themselves virtually slaves. But +there was no help for them. They were thousands of miles from China, +in a land of whose language they knew nothing, and so they were +obliged to submit. If after their term of service expired they +succeeded in reaching Havana, or other Cuban cities, and by becoming +fruit peddlers or engaging in any other occupation tried to earn +sufficient money to carry them back to their native land, they still +were brutally treated by all parties, and were ever at the mercy of +the venal police. On the plantations they received perhaps a little +more consideration than the blacks, simply because they were less +tractable and more dangerous on account of their greater degree of +intelligence and keener sense of the wrong done them. The planter, +always short of laborers, has heretofore been willing to pay the +shipping-agencies four hundred dollars for a newly-arrived coolie, +whose services he thus secured for eight years, the coolies at the +expiration of the period to receive a mere nominal sum, out of which +they have mostly been cheated by some means or other. The whole +business of coolie importation is vile beyond measure, and must have +included in its aggregate over three hundred thousand Chinese. There +are still believed to be some sixty thousand left upon the island, +most of whom remain because they have no means of returning to their +native land. Half of these subsist by begging. Broken in health and +spirits, they await the coming of that final liberator who is the last +friend of suffering humanity. + +The Chinese are best adapted to the work of the cigar factories, where +they excel in the occupation of cigar and cigarette making, and many +hundreds are thus employed in Havana. But they are totally unfit for +plantation labor, under the hardships of which their feeble frames +succumb. They prove themselves very good servants in the cities, being +very quick to learn, and ready to adapt themselves to any light +occupation. A Chinaman is sly, cunning, and, to a certain degree, +enterprising; but he must be trusted cautiously. As a house-servant, +footman, cook, or waiter he is admirable. Here, in this to him foreign +land, he cannot suppress his instinct for gambling; it seems to be +born in him, and he will often lose in an hour the hard accumulation +of months, or even years. As to the lottery, he is always the +purchaser of portions of tickets at every drawing, and occasionally +becomes a winner. A thrifty Chinaman, for there are some such even in +Havana, bearing the characteristic name of Ah-Lee, connected with a +bricabrac store on the Calzada de la Reina, held a lucky number in the +lottery drawn during our brief stay at the Hotel Telegrafo. When the +prizes were announced, he found that he was entitled to five hundred +dollars. The agents tried to pay Ah-Lee in Cuban currency, but he was +too smart for them, and showed them their own announcement promising +to cash all prizes, with the usual discount, in gold. So Ah-Lee got +his prize finally in gold. We were told by one whose experience was +extensive, and whose testimony was worthy of respect, that the coolies +would lie and steal with such apparent innocence as to deceive the +most wary, and that as regards their moral nature it seemed to be +totally undeveloped. For our own part we still sympathize with John. +He has been so outrageously cheated and abused from the hour when he +stepped on board the transport ship which brought him from China up to +the present time that he has learned the trick of it. If he is not +strong enough to demand his rights, we certainly hope that he may have +sufficient cunning to obtain them by outwitting his adversaries. + +In their slave condition the Chinese coolies and the negroes were at +times so affected by a spirit of superstition as to cause them to +commit suicide, the latter actuated, as it seemed, by a feeling of +despair, the former through a vindictive spirit towards their masters. +Both were also moved by a superstitious conviction that their spirits +would at once be returned to their native land, to inhabit a sort of +spirit paradise or intermediate state between earth and heaven. It is +very strange that so peculiar and so similar a belief should be +indigenous in the minds of such distinctive races. At the period when +the free importation from Africa was carried on, the most difficult +thing the planters had to contend with was a proneness to suicide on +the part of those slaves who were newly imported, and who entertained +this same remarkable idea. + +Though we abhor the entire system of Cuban labor, yet it cannot be +denied that the slaves, so far as material comfort goes, are better +lodged, fed, and cared for than four fifths of the population of +Ireland and India, and, furthermore, this comparison will hold good as +regards a large portion of continental Europe. A well-fed, well-kept +negro is twice as valuable, twice as serviceable to his master as a +neglected one, and no one knows this better than the master who +governs his slaves on purely mercenary grounds, and is yet very +careful to supply liberally their physical wants. These slaves are +descended from various African tribes, whose characteristics are so +marked as to be easily discernible even by strangers. The Congoes are +small in stature, but very agile and good workers, and in past years +they have been a favorite tribe. The Fantees are a larger race of +negroes, hard to manage, and possessing a revengeful nature. Those +from the Gold Coast are still more powerful in body, but are +good-natured and well-liked by planters. The Ebros are less black than +those already named, almost mulatto in complexion, and make favorite +house servants. The Ashantees are of another prominent tribe, and are +also popular as plantation hands, but not numerous. + +The tattooed faces, bodies, and limbs of a large portion of the +slaves, especially of the hands upon the plantations, shows their +African nativity, while the smooth skin and generally greater degree +of intelligence of others show them to have been born in slavery upon +the island. These latter are mostly sought for service in the cities. +They are remarkably healthy when not overworked, and form the most +vigorous part of the population. When an epidemic breaks out among +the blacks, it seems to carry them off by wholesale, proving much more +fatal than among the whites. Cholera, small-pox, and pneumonia +sometimes sweep them off at a fearful rate. It is a curious fact that +if a negro is really ill, he requires just twice as much medicine to +affect him as a white person. + +There are said to be three hundred thousand free negroes on the +island, of whom comparatively few are found inland upon the +plantations; they are all inclined to congregate in the cities and +large towns, where, truth compels us to say, they prove to be an idle +and vicious class, and as a body useless both to themselves and to the +public. There are believed to be at present in Cuba about one hundred +and forty thousand male and about sixty thousand female slaves. To +carry on the great industry of the island as systematized by the +planters, this number of hands is entirely inadequate. It is sometimes +asked how there came to be so many free negroes in the island. It +should be clearly understood that the laws which govern Cuba are made +by the home government, not by the planters or natives of Cuba, and +that indirectly these laws have long favored emancipation of the +blacks. For many years any slave has enjoyed the right to go to a +magistrate and have himself appraised, and upon paying the price thus +set upon himself he can receive his free papers. The valuation is made +by three persons, of whom the master appoints one, and the magistrate +two. The slave may pay by installments of fifty dollars at a time, but +he owes his full service to his master until the last and entire +payment is made. If the valuation be twelve hundred dollars, after the +slave has paid one hundred he owns one twelfth of himself, and the +master eleven twelfths, and so on. Until all is paid, however, the +master's dominion over the slave is complete. There has also long been +another peculiar law in operation. A slave may on the same valuation +compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay the money +in full, and this has often been done where slave and master disagree. +This law, as will be seen, must have operated as it was designed to +do, as a check upon masters, and as an inducement for them to remove +special causes of complaint and dissatisfaction. It has also enabled +slaveholders of the better class, in the case of ill-usage of blacks, +to relieve them by paying down their appraised value and appropriating +their services to themselves. All this relates to the past rather than +the present, since, as we have explained, the relationship of slave +and master is now so nearly at an end as to render such arrangements +inoperative. + +There was a law promulgated in 1870,--the outgrowth of the revolution +of 1868, which dethroned Isabella II.,--declaring every slave in Cuba +to be free after reaching the age of sixty, and also freeing the +children of all slaves born subsequent to that year. But that law has +been ignored altogether, and was not permitted even to be announced +officially upon the island. In the first place, few hard worked slaves +survive to the age of sixty; and in the second place, the children +have no one to look after or to enforce their rights. Spain never yet +kept troth with her subjects, or with anybody else, and the passage of +the law referred to was simply a piece of political finesse, designed +for the eye of the European states, and more particularly to soothe +England, which country had lately showed considerable feeling and +restlessness touching the disregard of all treaties between herself +and Spain. + +The slaves who still remain upon the plantations appear in all outward +circumstances to be thoughtless and comparatively content; their light +and cheerful nature seems to lift them above the influence of brutal +treatment when it is encountered. That they have been called upon to +suffer much by being overtasked and cruelly punished in the past, +there is no doubt whatever, but it may be safely stated that their +condition has been greatly improved of late. The owners are obliged by +law to instruct the slaves in the Catholic faith, but this has never +been heeded to any extent by the planters, though all the children are +baptized in infancy. The law relative to the treatment of the negroes +also prescribes a certain quantity and quality of food to be regularly +furnished to them, but the masters are generally liberal in this +respect, and exceed the requirements of the law, as their mercenary +interest is obviously in that direction. The masters know by +experience that slaves will not work well unless well fed. With no +education or culture whatever, their intelligence remains at the +lowest ebb. "With plenty of food and sleep," said an owner to us, +"they are as easily managed as any other domestic animals." + +Until latterly the slaves have been carefully watched at night, but +nearly all these precautions against their escaping from servitude +seem to have been dropped. They are no longer locked up in corral, +their special night quarters. Of course they are kept within certain +bounds, but the rigorous surveillance under which they have always +lived is no longer in force. The two sexes are nominally separated, +but as there is no strict recognition of the marital relation, and +free intercommunication between them really exists, the state of +morality may be imagined. It has always been customary for mothers to +receive certain consideration and partial relief from hard labor +during a reasonable period prior to and subsequent to their +confinement, with encouraging gifts from the masters, which has caused +them generally to covet the condition of maternity. Still the +proportion of female slaves on the plantations has always been so +small, compared with that of the other sex, that not nearly so many +children are born as would be supposed. Female slaves have generally +been sent to town service, even when born on the plantations. + +It has always been clearly understood that the births on the part of +the negroes in Cuba have not nearly kept pace with the number of +deaths among them, even under apparently favorable circumstances. One +has not far to look for the reason of this. Promiscuous intercourse is +undoubtedly the predisposing cause, which is always an outgrowth of a +largely unequal division of the sexes. On the plantations the male +negroes outnumber the females ten to one. In the cities the males are +as five to one. When the slave trade was carried on between Africa and +the island, the plan was to bring over males only, but it was hardly +practicable to adhere strictly to the rule, so women were not declined +when a cargo was being made up and nearly completed. Thus a disparity +was inaugurated which has continued to the present day, with only a +slight equalizing tendency. + +The present plan of freeing the slaves recommends itself to all +persons who fully understand the position, and if it be honestly +carried out will soon obliterate the crime of enforced labor upon the +island. A sudden freeing of the blacks, that is, all at once, would +have been attended with much risk to all parties, although justice and +humanity demand their liberation. France tried the experiment in St. +Domingo, and the result was a terrible state of anarchy. Not only did +she lose possession of the island, but the people settled down by +degrees into all the horrors of African savagery, even to cannibalism. +England followed, and generously paid the British planters of Jamaica +for all their slaves, giving the latter unconditional freedom. Of +course this ruined the island commercially, but it was strict justice, +nevertheless. Extreme measures are open to objection even in behalf of +justice. It was hoped that the freed negroes of Jamaica would become +thrifty and industrious, earning fair wages, and that crops would +still be remunerative, but it was not so. The negro of the tropics +will only work when he is compelled, and in the West Indies he has +scarcely more to do, as it regards sustaining life, than to pluck of +the wild fruits and to eat. The sugar plantations of Jamaica have +simply ceased to exist. + +Every reasonable Cuban has long realized that the freedom of the +blacks was but a question of time, and that it must soon be brought +about, but how this could be accomplished without rendering them +liable to the terrible consequences which befell St. Domingo was a +serious problem. The commercial wreck of Jamaica had less terror for +them as an example, since of late their own condition could in that +respect hardly be worse. Therefore, the manumitting of one slave in +every four annually, so organized that all shall be free on January 1, +1888, is considered with great favor by the people generally, except +the most radical of old Spaniards. All are thus prepared for the +change, which is so gradually brought about as to cause no great +shock. It is not unreasonable to believe that the instantaneous +freeing of all the slaves would have led to mutual destruction of +whites and blacks all over the island. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. + + +The author's first visit to the island of Cuba was during the year +1845, at a period when the slave traffic was vigorously, though +surreptitiously carried on between Africa and the island. The trade +was continued so late as 1853, and occasional cargoes were brought +over even later, slavers having been captured on the south coast two +years subsequent to the last named date. The slave vessels generally +sought a landing on the south side, both as being nearest and safest +for them, but when they were hard pressed they made a port wherever it +could be most easily reached. A favorite point at the time of which we +speak, was in the Bay of Broa, on the south coast, nearly opposite to +the Isle of Pines. It was here in 1845 that the author witnessed a +scene which forms the theme of the following chapter. A superior +knowledge of all the hidden bays and inlets of the south side gave the +contrabandists great advantages over any pursuing vessel, and their +lighter draught of water enabled them to navigate their small crafts +where it was impossible for a heavy ship to follow. + +We were on a brief visit to the coffee estate of Don Herero, near +Guines, and having expressed a desire to visit the southern coast, our +host proposed that we should do so together on the following day. We +were to start on horseback quite early in the morning, so as to +accomplish the distance before the heat of the sun should become +oppressive. + +The early day is almost as beautiful as the evenings of this region, a +fact to which we were fully awakened at an early hour, after a +refreshing night's sleep. Don Herero was already awaiting us on the +broad piazza, which we reached in time to see the slaves, directed by +an overseer, file past the house towards the field. "A couple of hours +before sunrise," said our host, "is the best time for them to work, +and we add these two hours to their noon rest, so that it divides the +labor to better advantage and avoids the midday heat." There were +perhaps seventy or eighty of this gang of slaves, one fifth only being +women. Don Herero went among them and exchanged some pleasant words, +mostly with the women, one of whom, evidently in a delicate situation, +he singled out and led aside, directing her to return to the huts. It +seemed that she had prepared to go to the field, but he did not +approve of it, and she acquiesced good naturedly. It was observed also +that he gave her a piece of money with a pleasant word, bidding her to +purchase some coveted piece of finery,--probably a gaudy "bandana," of +whose bright colors the negro women are very fond, binding them +turban-fashion about their curly heads. Another passion among the +Cuban negresses is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even +brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained. + +As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted +upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their +manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South +American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At +first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the +entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road, +like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural +English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere, +still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance +of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along +at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated +district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by +hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented +shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and +prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with +small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and +abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of +wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their +surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs +of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of +whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which +he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette +sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and +whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline. + +A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle +rise of ground, which opened to our view the ocean, and a line of +coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite +early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which +stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more +distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to +disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift +the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time, +however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero +observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen +such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured +us that with the exercise of a little patience we should soon be +rewarded by a clear and extensive view. So dismounting and lighting +our cigars we leaned upon the saddles of the horses and watched the +wreaths of the mist bank gradually dissolving. To the eastward there +jutted out a promontory with a considerable elevation, behind which +the sun began to show his florid countenance. Presently the indistinct +outline of a graceful tracery of spars and cordage greeted the eye +through the misty gauze, growing steadily more and more distinct and +gradually descending towards the sea level, until at last there lay +before us in full view, with a look of treacherous tranquillity, the +dark, low hull of a brigantine. + +"A slaver!" was the mutual and simultaneous exclamation which burst +from our lips as we gazed intently on the small but symmetrical +vessel. + +Don Herero looked particularly intelligent, but said nothing. There +could be no doubt as to the trade which engaged such a clipper craft. +No legitimate commerce was suggested by her appearance, no honest +trade demanded such manifest sacrifice of carrying capacity. It was +very natural that her guilty character should add interest to her +appearance and cause us to examine her very minutely. A short distance +from where we stood there was gathered a group of a dozen or more +persons, who silently regarded the brigantine, but they evinced no +surprise at her appearance there so close to the shore. She was of a +most graceful model, perfect in every line, with bows almost as sharp +as a knife. The rig was also quite unusual and entirely new to us. Her +deck was flush fore and aft. Not so much as an inch of rise was +allowed for a quarter-deck, a style which gave large stowage capacity +below deck, the level of which came up to within a couple of feet of +the cappings of the bulwarks. As we have before intimated, it required +no interpreter to indicate what business the brigantine was engaged +in. A single glance at her, lying in so unfrequented a place, was +enough. The rakish craft was of Baltimore build, of about two hundred +tons measurement, and, like many another vessel turned out by the +Maryland builders, was designed to make successfully the famous middle +passage to or from the coast of Cuba, loaded with kidnapped negroes +from the shores of Africa. The two requisites of these clippers were +great speed and large stowage capacity for a human freight. + +At first it appeared as though Don Herero had purposely brought us +here to witness the scene, but this he insisted was not the case, +declaring that the presence of the slaver was a surprise to him. Be +that as it may, it was clear that a cargo of negroes was about to be +landed, and certain rapid signals had been exchanged by flags from a +neighboring hut ever since the mist lifted. Repulsive as the idea was +to a Northerner, still it would do no good to avoid the sight, and so +we resolved to witness the disembarkation. Our friend, though a +slaveholder, was so more by force of circumstances than through his +own choice; he did not defend the institution at all. His solemn +convictions were entirely against slavery, and he more than once said +he heartily wished that some means might be devised which should +gradually and effectually relieve the planters from the entire system +and its many troubles. Don Herero now lies in one of the tombs in the +Campo Santo, near Havana, but were he living he would doubtless +rejoice at the present manner of solving a question which was so +involved in perplexity during the last of his days. + +While we were exchanging some remarks upon the subject, our attention +was suddenly drawn towards another striking object upon the waters of +the bay. + +Nearly a league beyond the slaver, looming up above the mist, we could +now make out three topmasts, clearly defined, the stately set of +which, with their firm and substantial rig, betrayed the fact that +there floated beneath them the hull of a French or an English +man-of-war, such as was commissioned at that time to cruise in these +waters for the purpose of intercepting and capturing the vessels +engaged in the African slave trade. + +"A cruiser has scented the brigantine," said Don Herero. + +"It certainly appears so," we affirmed. + +"Unless there be sharp eyes on board the little craft, the cruiser +will be down upon her before her people even suspect their danger." + +"The brigantine can hardly escape, at any rate," we suggested. + +"Don't be too sure," said Don Herero. + +It was impossible for our friend to suppress the nervous anxiety which +so manifestly actuated him as he viewed the new phase of affairs. + +"Look! Look!" he exclaimed. + +While he spoke, a drapery of snow-white canvas fell like magic from +the spars of the slaver, ready to catch the first breath of the breeze +which the stranger was bringing down with him, though the larger +vessel was still partially wrapped in a thin bank or cloud of fog. A +couple of long sweeps were rigged out of either bow of the brigantine, +and her prow, which just before was heading shoreward, was swung to +seaward, while her canvas was trimmed to catch the first breath of the +on-coming breeze. + +"This looks like business," said Don Herero with emphasis, at the same +time shading his eyes with both hands to get a better view of the +situation. + +"Can you define the new-comer's nationality?" we asked. + +"Not yet." + +"See! she is now in full sight." + +"French!" exclaimed Don Herero, as the tri-colors were clearly visible +hanging from her peak. + +"What will the cruiser do with the brigantine?" we asked. + +"First catch your hare," said our friend. + +Our host then explained that the slaver had evidently intended to land +her cargo under cover of the night, but had been prevented by the mist +from coming to anchor in time. Fog, being so seldom known on this +coast, had not entered into their calculations. She had most likely +felt her way towards the shore by soundings, and was waiting for full +daylight when we discovered her. + +While this explanation was being made, the brigantine had already got +steerage way upon her, aided by the steady application of the sweeps, +and her sharp bow was headed off shore. Nothing on the sea, unless it +were a steamer, could hold speed with these fly-aways, which were +built for just such emergencies as the present. The gradually +freshening breeze had now dispersed the mist, and the two vessels were +clearly in view from the shore and to each other. The remarkable +interest of the scene increased with each moment. Don Herero, with all +the excitability of his nationality, could hardly contain himself as +he walked rapidly back and forth, always keeping his eyes towards the +sea. + +The cruiser had come down under an easy spread of canvas, wearing a +jib, three topsails, fore, main, and mizzen, and her spanker. It did +not appear as if she had any previous intimation of the presence of +the slaver, but rather that she was on the watch for just such a +quarry as chance had placed within reach of her guns. The moment she +discovered the brigantine, and at a signal which we could not hear +upon the land, a hundred dark objects peopled her shrouds and spars, +and sail after sail of heavy duck was rapidly dropped and sheeted +home, until the mountain of canvas began to force the large hull +through the water with increasing speed. + +In the mean time the lesser craft had been by no means idle. In +addition to the regular square and fore and aft sails of a brigantine, +she had a mizzen-mast stepped well aft not more than four feet from +her taffrail, upon which she had hoisted a spanker and gaff-topsail, +thus completing a most graceful and effective rig, and spreading a +vast amount of canvas for a vessel of her moderate tonnage. It was +quite impossible to take one's eyes off the two vessels. It was a race +for life with the slaver, whose people worked with good effect at the +sweeps and in trimming their sails to make the most out of the light +but favorable wind that was filling them. The larger vessel would have +made better headway in a stiff breeze or half a gale of wind, but the +present moderate breeze favored the guilty little brigantine, which +was every moment forging ahead and increasing the distance between +herself and her enemy. + +"Do you see that commotion on the cruiser's bow?" asked our friend +eagerly. + +"Some men are gathered on the starboard bow," was our answer. + +"Ay, and now she runs out a gun!" + +That was plain enough to see. The cruiser trained a bow-chaser to bear +on the slaver, and the boom of the gun came sluggishly over the sea a +few seconds after the puff of smoke was seen. A quick eye could see +the dash of the shot just astern of the brigantine, where it must have +cast the spray over her quarter-deck. After a moment's delay, as if to +get the true range, a second, third, and fourth shot followed, each +ricochetting through and over the slight waves either to starboard or +port of the slaver, without any apparent effect. The brigantine, still +employing her sweeps, and with canvas well trimmed, took no notice of +the shots. + +Every time the gun was discharged on board the cruiser, it became +necessary to fall off her course just a point or two in order to get a +proper aim, and her captain was quick to see the disadvantage of this, +as he was only assisting the slaver to widen the distance between +them. It would seem to the uninitiated to be the easiest thing +possible to cripple the brigantine by a few well directed shots, but +when sailing in the wake of an enemy this is by no means so easily +done. Besides, the distance between the two vessels, which was +considerable, was momentarily increasing. Notwithstanding that the +broad spread of canvas on board the slaver made her a conspicuous +mark, still, so far as could be seen or judged of by her movements, +she remained untouched by half a dozen shots, more or less, which the +cruiser sent after her as she slipped away from her big adversary. We +could even see that the sweeps were now taken in, showing that the +master of the slaver considered the game to be in his own hands. + +"The brigantine steers due south," said our friend, rubbing his hands +together eagerly. "She will lead the Frenchman a wild goose chase +among the Cayman Isles, where he will be most likely to run aground +with his heavy draught of water. The sea round about for leagues is +underlaid by treacherous coral reefs. We shall see, we shall see," he +reiterated. + +"But they must certainly have a good pilot on board the cruiser," we +ventured to say. + +"Undoubtedly," replied Don Herero, "but the brigantine is built with a +centre-board, thus having, as it were, a portable keel, and can sail +anywhere that a man could swim, while the cruiser, with all her +armament, must draw nearly three fathoms. A ship will sometimes follow +a chase into dangerous water." + +"True," we responded, "the brigantine's safety lies in seeking shoal +water." + +"You are right, and that will be her game." + +In half an hour both vessels were hull down in the offing, and were +soon invisible from our point of view. The early ride and subsequent +excitement had developed in us a healthy appetite, and we were +strongly reminded of the fact that we had not breakfasted. We were +near the little hamlet of Lenore, where there was a small inn, which +we had passed on the way, and towards which we now turned our horses' +heads. A breakfast of boiled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee was +prepared for us and well served, much to our surprise, supplemented by +a large dish of various fruits, ripe and delicious. Don Herero had +left us for a few moments while the breakfast was preparing, and it +must have been owing to his intelligent instructions that we were so +nicely served, for, as a rule, country posadas in Cuba are places to +be avoided, being neither cleanly nor comfortable. For strangers they +are not entirely safe, as they are frequented by a very rough class of +people. These idlers do not indulge in spirituous liquors to excess, +partaking only of the light Cataline wine in universal use both in +Spain and her colonies. Intemperance is little seen outside the large +cities, but gambling and quarreling are ever rampant among the class +who frequent these posadas. In the present instance there were a dozen +and more individuals in the Lenore inn who were more or less connected +with the expected arrival of the slave brigantine, and the +disappointment caused by the arrival upon the scene of the French +cruiser had put them all in a very bad humor. Angry words were being +exchanged among them in the large reception apartment, and Don Herero +suggested that we should finish our cigars under an inviting shade in +the rear of the posada. + +At our host's suggestion a neighboring coffee plantation was visited, +and its floral and vegetable beauties thoroughly enjoyed. It was in +the very height of fragrance and promise, the broad expanse of the +plantation, as far as the eye could extend, being in full bloom. Some +hours were agreeably passed in examining the estate, the slaves' +quarters, and the domestic arrangements, and also in partaking of the +hospitalities of the generous owner, after which we rode back to +Lenore. + +"We must not miss the closing act of our little drama," said Don +Herero, significantly. + +"The closing act?" we inquired. + +"Certainly. You do not suppose we have yet done with the brigantine?" + +"Oh, the brigantine. Will she dare to return, now the cruiser has +discovered her?" + +"Of course she will, after dropping her pursuer. Strange that these +French cruisers do not understand these things better; but so it is." + +And Don Herero explained that the French cruisers watched the southern +coasts of the island, while the English cruised on the northern shore, +attempted to blockade it, and also cruised farther seaward, on the +line between Africa and Cuba. A couple of American men-of-war, engaged +in the same purpose of suppressing the slave trade, patrolled the +African coast. It was nearly night before we got through our dinner at +the posada. Just as we were preparing to leave the table, the landlord +came in and announced to Don Herero that if we desired to witness the +close of the morning's business in the bay, we must hurry up to the +plateau. + +We hastened to our former position, reaching it just in time to see +the brigantine again rounding the headland. She now ran in close to +the shore, where there seemed to be hardly water sufficient to float +her, but the exactness and system which characterized her movements +showed that her commander was not a stranger to the little bay in +which he had brought his vessel. All was instantly bustle and +activity, both on board and on shore. There were not more than twenty +people to be seen at the shore, but each one knew his business, and +went about it intelligently. There was no more loud talking or +disputation. These men, all armed, were accustomed to this sort of +thing, and had evidently been awaiting the slaver's arrival for some +days. They were a rough-looking set of desperadoes, among whom we +recognized several who had been at the posada. + +The brigantine was quickly moored as near to the shore as possible, +and a broad gangway of wood was laid from her deck to a projecting +rock, over which a long line of dark objects was hurried, like a flock +of sheep, and nearly as naked as when born into the world. We walked +down to the landing-place, in order to get a closer view. The line of +human beings who came out from below the deck of the slaver were +mostly full-grown men, but occasionally a woman or a boy came out and +hastened forward with the rest. As we drew nearer, one or two of the +women, it was observed, had infants in their arms, little unconscious +creatures, sound asleep, and so very young that they must have been +born on the voyage. How the entire scene appealed to our indignation +and sympathy! What misery these poor creatures must have endured, +cooped up for twenty-one days in that circumscribed space! They were +all shockingly emaciated, having sustained life on a few ounces of +rice and a few gills of water daily distributed to them. The +atmosphere, thoroughly poisoned when so confined, had proved fatal to +a large number. As we stood there, one dark body was passed up from +below the deck and quietly dropped into the bay. Life was extinct. It +was quite impossible to suppress a shudder as we looked upon the +disgraceful scene, which being observed Don Herero said,-- + +"They look bad enough now, but a few days in the open air, with a +plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits, and sweet water to drink, will +bring them round. They will get a good bath directly at the first +river they cross, which is the thing they most require." + +While our friend was speaking, four tall, gaunt, fierce-looking +negroes passed us, shackled two by two at the wrists. Their eyes +rolled curiously about, full of wonder at all they saw, everything was +to them so strange. They knew no more than children just born what was +in store for them. + +"Poor fellows!" we ejaculated. Perhaps they detected sympathy in the +tone of voice in which the words were uttered. They could not +understand their purport, but all four were observed to turn their +eyes quickly towards us, with an intelligent expression. + +"These are Ashantees," said Don Herero. "They have thriven but poorly +on their small allowance of nourishment, but they will improve rapidly +like the rest, now they have landed. They belong to a powerful tribe +in Africa, and are rarely captured and sold to the factories on the +coast. They are sturdy and serviceable fellows, but they must be +humored. The lash will not subdue them. They bring a high price in +Havana for harbor workers." + +Hastening back to the posada, a large basket of cassava bread and an +abundance of ripe bananas and oranges, with half a dozen bottles of +wine, were procured. With these, carried by a couple of colored boys, +we hastened back to the landing-place in time to distribute the +refreshments to all the women and boys. The balance of the provisions +were dealt out to the few men who had not already been hurried away +from the spot. It is impossible to describe the surprise and grateful +expression upon those dusky faces among the half-famished creatures, +as they eagerly swallowed a portion of the wine, and ate freely of the +delicious fruit and nourishing bread. + +We were told afterwards that there were about three hundred and fifty +of these poor creatures originally embarked, and over three hundred +were landed. Perhaps between thirty and forty had died on the passage, +unable to sustain life under such awful circumstances, packed, as they +necessarily were, almost like herring in a box. Once a day, in fair +weather, thirty or forty at a time were permitted to pass a half hour +on deck. That was all the respite from their confinement which they +enjoyed during the three weeks' voyage. The horrors of the "middle +passage" have not been exaggerated. + +"They must have lost many of their number by death, on the voyage," we +suggested to Don Herero, as we observed their weak and tremulous +condition. + +"Doubtless," was the response. + +"And what do they do in that case?" + +"They have the ocean always alongside," was his significant reply. + +"They throw them over as they did that body just now?" we asked. + +"Exactly. And many a poor sick creature is cast into the sea before +life is extinct," he continued. + +"That is adding murder to piracy," was our natural and indignant +rejoinder. + +"Hush!" said Don Herero, "these are sensitive people, and desperate +ones, as well. I should find it difficult to protect you if they were +to overhear and understand such words." + +We realized that his remarks were true enough. We were in a land of +slavery, and that meant that everything evil was possible. + +The last of the living freight had been landed, and arranged in +marching trim they were turned with their faces inland, staggering as +they went, their swollen and cramped limbs hardly able to sustain the +weight of their bodies. They were all secured with handcuffs, twenty +in a lot, between whom,--there being ten on a side,--a pole was +placed, and each was fastened by a chain running through the steel +handcuffs to the pole. An armed Spaniard directed each lot. The faces +of all were quite expressionless. They had just endured such horrors +packed beneath the deck of the brigantine that the present change must +have been welcome to them, lame as they were. + +We had been so completely engaged in watching the colored gangs and in +moving up to our lookout station of the early morning that our +thoughts had not reverted to anything else, but as the last lot filed +by there boomed over the waters of the bay the heavy report of a gun, +at once calling our attention seaward. A change had come over the +scene. That which has taken some space to relate had transpired with +great rapidity. Night had settled over the scene, but the moon and +stars were so marvelously bright as to render objects almost as plain +as by day. The ocean lay like a sheet of silver, luminous with the +reflected light poured upon it by the sparkling skies. Looking towards +the southeast, we saw the French cruiser rounding the headland which +formed the eastern arm of the little bay, and she had already sent a +shot across the water aimed at the brigantine. Don Herero had +prognosticated correctly. The slaver had led the cruiser a fruitless +chase and lost her among the islands, and then returning to her former +anchorage had successfully discharged her cargo. Her tactics could not +have been anticipated by the cruiser, yet had an armed party been left +behind in boats, the brigantine might have been captured on her +return. But then again, if the cruiser had left a portion of her crew +at this point, the slaver would have been notified by the friends on +shore, and would have sought a landing elsewhere. + +The brigantine had cast off her moorings and was now standing seaward, +with her sails filled. We could distinctly see a quarter boat leave +her side manned by some of her crew, who at once pulled towards the +nearest landing. At the same time a bright blaze sprang up on board +the slaver just amidships, and in a moment more it crept, like a +living serpent, from shroud to shroud and from spar to spar, until the +graceful brigantine was one sheet of flame! It was dazzling to look +upon, even at the distance where we stood, the body of high-reaching +flame being sharply defined against the background of sky and blue +water. + +While we watched the glowing view the cruiser cautiously changed her +course and bore away, for fire was an enemy with which she could not +contend. Presently there arose a shower of blazing matter heavenward, +while a confused shock and a dull rumbling report filled the +atmosphere, as the guilty brigantine was blown to atoms! Hemmed in as +she was there could be no hope of escape. Her mission was ended, and +her crew followed their usual orders, to destroy the ship rather than +permit her to fall a prize to any government cruisers. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. + + +Everything in Cuba has an aspect of antiquity quite Egyptian. The +style of the buildings is not unlike that of the Orient, while the +trees and vegetable products increase the resemblance. The tall, +majestic palms, the graceful cocoanut trees, the dwellings of the +lower classes and many other peculiarities give to the scenery an +Eastern aspect quite impressive. It is impossible to describe the +vividness with which each object, artificial or natural, house or +tree, stands out in the clear liquid light where there is no haze to +interrupt the view. Indeed, it is impossible to express how +essentially everything differs in this sunny island from our own +country. The language, the people, the climate, the manners and +customs, the architecture, the foliage, the flowers, all offer broad +contrasts to what the American has so lately left behind him. It is +but a long cannon shot, as it were, off our southern coast, yet once +upon its soil the stranger seems to have been transported to another +quarter of the globe. It would require but little effort of the +imagination to believe one's self in distant Syria, or some remoter +part of Asia. + +One never tires of watching the African population, either in town or +country. During the hours which the slaves are allowed to themselves, +they are oftenest seen working on their own allotted piece of ground, +where they raise favorite fruits and vegetables, besides corn for +fattening the pig penned up near by, and for which the drover who +regularly visits the plantations will pay them in good hard money. +Thus it has been the case, in years past, that thrifty slaves have +earned the means of purchasing their freedom, after which they have +sought the cities, and have swelled the large numbers of free negroes +who naturally tend towards these populous centres. Some become +caleseros, some labor upon the water-front of the town as stevedores, +porters, and the like, but the majority are confirmed idlers. In the +cities even the slaves have always had a less arduous task to perform +than those on the plantations. They are less exposed to the sun, and +are as a rule allowed more freedom and privileges. The women never +fail to exhibit the true negro taste for cheap jewelry. A few gaudy +ribbons and a string of high-colored glass beads about the neck are +greatly prized by them. Sometimes the mistress of a good looking +negress takes great pleasure in decking her immediate attendant in +grand style, with big gold finger rings, large hoop earrings, wide +gold necklace, and the like. A bright calico gown and a flaring +bandana kerchief bound about the head generally complete the costume +of these petted slaves. There was one sight observed in the church of +Santa Clara of significance in this connection. Before the altar all +distinction ceased, and the negress knelt on the same bit of carpet +beside the mistress. + +The native soil of Cuba is so rich that a touch of the hoe prepares it +for the plant. It is said to be unsurpassed in the world in this +respect, and only equaled by Australia. The Monteros have little more +to do than to gather produce, which they carry daily to the nearest +market, and which also forms their own healthful and palatable food. +Nowhere are the necessities of life so easily supplied, or are men so +delicately nurtured. And yet to our Northern eye these Monteros seemed +rather a forlorn sort of people, forming a class by themselves, and +regarded with disdain by the Spaniards and most Creoles, as our +Southern slaveholders used to regard the poor whites of the South. If +one may judge by appearances they are nearly as poor in purse as they +can be. Their home, rude and lowly, consists generally of a cabin with +a bamboo frame, covered by a palm-leaf roof, and with an earthen +floor. There are a few broken hedges, and numbers of ragged or naked +children. Pigs, hens, goats, all stroll ad libitum in and out of the +cabin. The Montero's tools--few and poorly adapted--are Egyptian-like +in primitiveness, while the few vegetables are scarcely cultivated at +all. The chaparral about his cabin is low, tangled, and thorny, but it +is remarkable what a redeeming effect a few graceful palms impart to +the crudeness of the picture. + +The Montero raises, perhaps, some sweet potatoes, which, by the bye, +reach a very large size in Cuban soil. He has also a little patch of +corn, but _such_ corn. When ripe it is only three or four feet in +height, or less than half the average of our New England growth, the +ears mere nubbins. This corn grows, however, all the year round, and +is fed green to horses and cattle. All this is done upon a very small +scale. No one lays in a stock of anything perishable. The farmer's or +the citizen's present daily necessities alone are provided for. +Idleness and tobacco occupy most of the Montero's time, varied by the +semi-weekly attractions of the cock-pit. The amount of sustaining food +which can be realized from one of these little patches of ground, so +utterly neglected, is something beyond credence to those who have not +looked bountiful nature in the face in Cuba. + +While traveling in the vicinity of Guines, the author stopped at one +of these lonely Montero homes to obtain water and refreshment for his +horse. These were promptly furnished in the form of a pail of water +and a bundle of green cornstalks. In the mean time the rude +hospitality of the cabin was proffered to us, and we gladly sat down +to partake of cocoanut milk and bananas. One of the family pets of the +cabin consisted of a tall white bird of the crane species, which, +regardless of goat, kid, hens, chickens, and children, came boldly to +our side as though accustomed to be petted, and greedily devoured the +banana which was peeled for him and cut into tempting bits. One wing +had evidently been cut so that the bird could not fly away, but his +long, vigorous legs would have defied pursuit, had he desired to +escape. Four children, two of each sex, two of whom were white and two +mulatto, quite naked, and less than ten years of age, kept close to +the Montero's Creole wife, watching us with big, wondering eyes, and +fingers thrust into their mouths. What relationship they bore to the +household was not clearly apparent. On rising to depart and attempting +to pay for the entertainment, the master of the cabin, with true Cuban +hospitality, declined all remuneration; but a handful of small silver +divided among the children satisfied all, and we parted with a hearty +pressure of the hand. + +The richest soil of the island is black, which is best adapted to +produce the sugar-cane, and is mostly devoted, if eligibly located, to +that purpose. To a Northerner, accustomed to see so much enrichment +expended upon the soil to force from it an annual return, this +profuseness of unstimulated yield is a surprise. The red soil of Cuba, +which is impregnated with the oxide of iron, is less rich, and is +better adapted to the coffee plantation. The mulatto-colored earth is +considered to be inferior to either of the others named, but is by no +means unproductive, being preferred by the tobacco growers, who, +however, often mingle a percentage of other soils with it, as we +mingle barnyard refuse with our natural soil. Some tobacco planters +have resorted by way of experiment to the use of guano, hoping to +stimulate the native properties of the soil, but its effect was found +to be not only exhausting to the land, but also bad for the leaf, +rendering it rank and unfit for delicate use. + +Coal is found near Havana, though it is of rather an inferior quality, +and, so far as we could learn, is but little used, the planters +depending mostly upon the refuse of the cane with which to run their +boilers and engines. Trees have been only too freely used for fuel +while accessible, but great care is now taken to utilize the cane +after the juice is expressed. Trees, which are so much needed in this +climate for shade purposes, have mostly disappeared near Havana. When +Columbus first landed here he wrote home to Spain that the island was +so thickly wooded as to be impassable. + +The lovely climate and beautiful land are rendered gloomy by the state +of oppression under which they suffer. The exuberant soil groans with +the burdens which are heaped upon it. The people are not safe from +prying inquiry at bed or board. Their every action is watched, their +slightest words noted and perhaps distorted. They can sing no song of +liberty, and even to hum an air wedded to republican verse is to +provoke suspicion. The press is muzzled by the iron hand of power. Two +hours before a daily paper is distributed on the streets of Havana, a +copy must be sent to the government censor. When it is returned with +his indorsement it may be issued to the public. The censorship of the +telegraph is also as rigorously enforced. Nor do private letters +through the mails escape espionage. No passenger agent in Havana dares +to sell a ticket for the departure of a stranger or citizen without +first seeing that the individual's passport is indorsed by the police. +Foreign soldiers fatten upon the people, or at least they eat out +their substance, and every town near the coast is a garrison, every +interior village a military depot. + +Upon landing, if well advised, one is liberal to the petty officials. +Chalk is cheap. A five-dollar gold-piece smooths the way wonderfully, +and causes the inspector to cross one's baggage with his chalk and no +questions asked. No gold, no chalk! Every article must be scrupulously +examined. It is cheapest to pay, humiliating as it is, and thus +purchase immunity. + +As a specimen of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Havana +to-day, a case is presented which occurred during our stay at the +Telegrafo Hotel. A native citizen was waylaid by three men and robbed +of his pocket-book and watch, about fifty rods from the hotel, at +eight o'clock in the evening. The rascal who secured the booty, +threatening his victim all the while with a knife at his throat, +instantly ran away, but the citizen succeeded in holding on to the +other two men until his outcries brought the police to the spot. The +two accomplices were at once imprisoned. Three days later they were +brought before an authorized court, and tried for the robbery. Being +taken red-handed, as it were, one would suppose their case was clear +enough, and that they would be held until they gave up their +accomplice. Not so, however. The victim of the robbery, who had lost a +hundred and sixty dollars in money and a valuable gold watch, was +coolly rebuked for carrying so much property about his person, and the +case was dismissed! Had the sufferer been a home Spaniard possibly the +result would have been different. The inference is plain and doubtless +correct, that the official received half the stolen property, provided +he would liberate the culprits. Sometimes, as we were assured, the +victim outbids the rogues, and exemplary punishment follows! + +Flour of a good commercial quality sells at present in Boston for six +dollars per barrel. Why should it cost fourteen dollars in Havana and +other ports of Cuba? Because Spain demands a tax of one hundred per +cent. to be paid into the royal treasury upon this prime necessity of +life. This one example is sufficient to illustrate her policy, which +is to extort from the Cubans every possible cent that can be obtained. +The extraordinary taxation imposed upon their subjects by the German +and Austrian governments is carried to the very limit, it would seem, +of endurance, but taxation in Cuba goes far beyond anything of the +sort in Europe. Spain now asks us to execute with her a "favorable" +reciprocity treaty. Such a treaty as she proposes would be of very +great benefit to Spain, no doubt, but of none, or comparatively none, +to us. Whatever we seemingly do for Cuba in the matter of such a +treaty we should do indirectly for Spain. She it is who will reap all +the benefit. She has still upon her hands some fifty to sixty thousand +civil and military individuals, who are supported by a miserable +system of exaction as high and petty officials in this misgoverned +island. + +It is for the interest of this army of locusts in possession to keep +up the present state of affairs,--it is bread and butter to them, +though it be death to the Cubans. Relieved of the enormous taxation +and oppression generally which her people labor under in every +department of life, Cuba would gradually assume a condition of thrift +and plenty. But while she is so trodden upon, so robbed in order to +support in luxury a host of rapacious Spaniards, and forbidden any +voice in the control of her own affairs, all the treaty concessions +which we could make to Spain would only serve to keep up and +perpetuate the great farce. Such a treaty as is proposed would be in +reality granting to Spain a subsidy of about thirty million dollars +per annum! This conclusion was arrived at after consultation with +three of the principal United States consuls on the island. Cuba +purchases very little from us; she has not a consuming population of +over three hundred thousand. The common people, negroes, and Chinese +do not each expend five dollars a year for clothing. Rice, codfish, +and dried beef, with the abundant fruits, form their support. Little +or none of these come from the United States. The few consumers wear +goods which we cannot, or at least do not produce. A reciprocity +treaty with such a people means, therefore, giving them a splendid +annual subsidy. + +Taxed by the government to the very last extreme, the landlords, +shopkeepers, and all others who work for hire have also learned the +trick of it, and practice a similar game on every possible victim. +Seeing a small desirable text book in a shop on the Calle de Obrapia, +we asked the price. + +"Two dollars, gold, señor," was the answer. + +"Why do you charge just double the price one would pay for it in +Madrid, Paris, or New York?" we asked. + +"Because we are so heavily taxed," was the reply, and the shopman went +on to illustrate. + +Each small retail store is taxed three hundred dollars for the right +to do business. As the store increases in size and importance the tax +is increased. A new tax of six per cent. on the amount of all other +taxation has just been added, to cover the cost of collecting the +whole! A war tax of twenty-five per cent. upon incomes was laid in +1868, and though the war has been ended ten years it is still +collected. Every citizen or resident in Havana is obliged to supply +himself with a document which is called a cedula, or paper of +identification, at an annual cost of five dollars in gold. Every +merchant who places a sign outside of his door is taxed so much per +letter annually. Clerks in private establishments have to pay two and +one half per cent. of their quarterly salaries to government. +Railroads pay a tax of ten per cent. upon all passage money received, +and the same on all freight money. Petty officials invent and impose +fines upon the citizens for the most trifling things, and strangers +are mulcted in various sums of money whenever a chance occurs, +generally liquidating the demand rather than to be at the cost of time +and money to contest their rights. The very beggars in the streets, +blind, lame, or diseased, if found in possession of money, are forced +to share it with officials on some outrageous pretext. All these +things taken into consideration show us why the shopkeeper of Havana +must charge double price for his merchandise. We have only named a few +items of taxation which happen to occur to us, and which only form a +commencement of the long list. + +It is nearly impossible at present to collect a note or an account on +the island. Several of the guests at the Telegrafo had come from the +United States solely upon these fruitless errands, each having the +same experience to relate. Dishonest debtors take advantage of the +general state of bankruptcy which exists, and plead utter inability to +meet their obligations, while others, who would gladly pay their +honest debts if it were possible, have not the means to do so. + +There is considerable counterfeit paper money in circulation, and we +were told that the banks of the city of Havana actually paid it out +knowingly over their own counters, mixed in with genuine bills,--a +presumed perquisite of the bank officers! This unprecedented fraud +was not put a stop to until the merchants and private bankers +threatened to have the doors of the banks closed by popular force if +the outrage was longer continued. Could such a public fraud be carried +on under any other than a Spanish government? It is not pleasant to +record the fact, but it is nevertheless true that the Spaniards in +Cuba are artful, untruthful, unreliable even in small things, with no +apparent sense of honor, and seeking just now mainly how they can best +avoid their honest obligations. As evil communications are contagious, +the Cubans have become more or less impregnated with this spirit of +commercial dishonesty. It must be admitted that of true, conscientious +principles neither party has any to spare. + +The writer has often been asked about Moro Castle. Much has been said +about its "impregnable" character, but modern military science will +not recognize any such theory. A thousand chances are liable to +happen, any one of which might give the place into the hands of an +invading force. Has it not already been twice taken? Though it may be +said that auxiliary forts have been added since those experiences, +nevertheless modern artillery would make but short work of the boasted +defenses of Havana, and would knock the metropolis itself all to +pieces in a few hours, while lying out of range from Moro Castle. No +invading force need attack from the seaward side, unless it should be +found particularly desirable to do so. The place could be easily +taken, as the French took Algiers, by landing a sufficient force in +the rear. With the exception of the fortresses in and about Havana, +the island, with its two thousand miles of coast line and nearly one +hundred accessible harbors, is certainly very poorly prepared to +resist an invading enemy. Cuba's boasted military or defensive +strength is chimerical. + +That the island naturally belongs to this country is a fact so plain +as to have been conceded by all authorities. In this connection one is +forcibly reminded of the words of Jefferson in a letter to President +Monroe, so long ago as 1823, wherein he says: "I candidly confess that +I have ever looked on Cuba as the most interesting addition which +could be made to our system of States. The control which, with Florida +Point, this island would give us over the Gulf of Mexico and the +countries and the isthmus bordering it, would fill up the measure of +our political well-being." Is it generally known that Cuba was once +freely offered to this government? During the presidency of Jefferson, +while Spain was bowed beneath the yoke of France, the people of the +island, feeling themselves incompetent to maintain their independence, +sent a deputation to Washington city proposing its annexation to the +federal system of North America. The President, however, declined to +even consider the proffered acquisition. Again, in 1848, President +Polk authorized our minister at Madrid to offer a hundred million +dollars for a fee simple of the island, but it was rejected by Spain. + +Completely divided against itself, the mystery is how Cuba has been so +long sustained in its present system. Spain has crowded regiment after +regiment of her army into the island. It was like pouring water into a +sieve, the troops being absorbed by death almost as fast as they could +be landed. The combined slaughter brought about by patriot bullets, +hardships, exposure, fever, and every possible adverse circumstance +has been enormous beyond belief. In spite of all this sacrifice of +human life, besides millions of gold expended annually, what does +Spain gain by holding tenaciously to her title of the island? Nothing, +absolutely nothing. The time has long passed when the system of +extortion enforced upon the Cubans served to recuperate the royal +treasury. The tide has entirely changed in this respect, and though +the taxation has been increased, still the home government is mulcted +in the sum of six or eight millions of dollars annually to keep up the +present worse than useless system. The deficit of the Cuban budget for +the present year, as we were credibly informed, could not be less than +eight millions of dollars. How is Spain to meet this continuous drain +upon her resources? She is already financially bankrupt. It is in this +political strait that she seeks a one-sided treaty with the United +States, by means of which she hopes to eke out her possession of the +island a few years longer, through our liberality,--a treaty by which +she would gain some thirty millions of dollars annually, and we should +be just so much the poorer. + +As regards the final destiny of Cuba, that question will be settled by +certain economic laws which are as sure in their operation as are +those of gravitation. No matter what our wishes may be in the matter, +such individual desires are as nothing when arraigned against natural +laws. The commerce of the island is a stronger factor in the problem +than mere politics; it is the active agent of civilization all over +the world. It is not cannon, but ships; not gunpowder, but peaceful +freights, which settle the great questions of mercantile communities. +Krupp's hundred-ton guns will not control the fate of Cuba, but sugar +will. We have only to ask ourselves, Whither does the great commercial +interest of the island point? It is in the direction in which the +largest portion of her products find their market. If this were +England, towards that land her industry and her people would look +hopefully, but as it is the United States who take over ninety per +cent. of her entire exports, towards the country of the Stars and +Stripes she stretches out her hands, and asks for favorable treaties. + +At the present moment she has reached a crisis, where her condition is +absolutely desperate. The hour is big with fate to the people of Cuba. +As long as European soil will produce beets, the product of the cane +will find no market on that side of the Atlantic. Cuba must in the +future depend as much upon the United States as does Vermont, +Mississippi, New York, Ohio, or any other State. The effort to bring +about a reciprocal treaty of commerce with us is but the expression of +a natural tendency to closer bonds with this country. Thus it will be +seen that as regards her commercial existence, Cuba is already within +the economic orbit of our Union, though she seems to be so far away +politically. The world's centre of commercial gravity is changing very +fast by reason of the great and rapid development of the United +States, and all lands surrounding the union must conform to the +prevailing lines of motion. + +It is with infinite reluctance that the temporary sojourner in Cuba +leaves her delicious shores. A brief residence in the island passes +like a midsummer night's dream, while the memories one brings away +seem almost like delusive spots of the imagination. Smiling skies and +smiling waters; groves of palms and oranges; the bloom of the +heliotrope, the jasmine and the rose; flights of strange and gaudy +birds; tropic nights at once luxurious and calm; clouds of fireflies +floating like unsphered stars on the night breeze; graceful figures of +dark-eyed señoritas in diaphanous drapery; picturesque groups of +Monteros, relieved by the dusky faces and stalwart forms of the sons +of Africa; undulating volantes, military pageants, ecclesiastical +processions, frowning fortresses, grim batteries, white sails, +fountains raining silver; all these images mingle in brilliant +kaleidoscopic combinations, changing and varying as the mind's eye +seeks to fix their features. Long after his departure from the +enchanting island, the traveler beholds these visions in the still +watches of the night, and again listens to the dash of the sea-green +waves at the foot of the Moro and the Punta, the roll of the drum and +the crash of arms upon the ramparts, or hears in fancy the thrilling +strains of music from the military band in the Paseo de Isabella. + +If it were possible to contemplate only the beautiful that nature has +so prodigally lavished on this Eden of the Gulf, shutting out all that +man has done and is doing to mar the blessings of heaven, while +closing our eyes to the myriad forms of human misery that assail them +on every hand, then a visit to or a residence in Cuba would present a +succession of unalloyed pleasures, delightful as a poet's dream. But +the dark side of the picture will force itself upon us. The American +traveler, keenly alive to the social and political aspects of life, +appreciates in full force the evils that challenge his observation at +every step. If he contrasts the natural scenery with the familiar +pictures of home, he cannot help also contrasting the political +condition of the people with that of his own country. The existence, +almost under the shadow of the flag of the freest institutions the +earth ever knew, of a government as purely despotic as that of the +autocrat of Russia is a monstrous fact that must startle the most +indifferent observer. + +To go hence to Cuba is not merely to pass over a few degrees of +latitude,--it is to take a step from the nineteenth century back into +the dark ages. In the clime of sunshine and endless summer, we are in +the land of starless political darkness. Lying under the lee of a land +where every man is a sovereign is a realm where the lives, liberties, +and fortunes of all are held at the will of a single individual, who +acknowledges fealty only to a nominal ruler more than three thousand +miles across the sea. + +In close proximity to a country where the taxes are self-imposed and +so light as to be almost unfelt is one where each free family pays +over five hundred dollars per annum, directly and indirectly, for the +support of a system of bigoted tyranny, scarcely equaled +elsewhere,--forming an aggregate sum of over twenty-six millions of +dollars. For all this extortion no equivalent is received. No +representation, no utterance, for tongue or pen are alike proscribed; +no share of public honors, no office, no emolument. The industry of +the people is crippled, their intercourse with other nations is +hampered in every conceivable manner, and every liberal aspiration of +the human soul stifled in its birth. Can good morals and Christian +lives be expected of a people who are so down-trodden? + +Salubrious in climate, varied in production, and most fortunately +situated for commerce, there must yet be a grand future in store for +Cuba. Washed by the Gulf Stream on half her border, while the +Mississippi pours out its riches on one side and the Amazon on the +other, her home is naturally within our own constellation of stars, +and some of those who read these pages may live to see such a +consummation. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by +Maturin M. Ballou + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30130 *** diff --git a/30130-h/30130-h.htm b/30130-h/30130-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..598b548 --- /dev/null +++ b/30130-h/30130-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9093 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Due South, by Maturin M. Ballou. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + hr.full { width : 65%; } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30130 ***</div> + +<p><b>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:</b></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p> +1. A few chapter sub-headings do not end with a period in the original. For +consistency, obvious errors have been corrected by ending these with a period.<br /><br /> + +2. A few obvious misprints where sentences did not end with a period have been corrected.<br /><br /> + +3. The following misprints have been corrected:<br /> + "which we pet in our" corrected to "which we put in our" (page 243)<br /> + "Britian" corrected to "Britain" (page 271)<br /><br /> + +4. Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in +spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and ligature usage have been retained. +</p></div> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h1>DUE SOUTH</h1> +<h5>OR</h5> +<h2>CUBA PAST AND PRESENT<br /><br /><br /></h2> + + +<h5>BY</h5> +<h3>MATURIN M. BALLOU</h3> +<h5>AUTHOR OF "DUE WEST; OR ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS"<br /><br /><br /><br /></h5> + + +<h5>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</h5> +<h4>HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY</h4> +<h5>The Riverside Press, Cambridge</h5> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p style='text-align:center;'>Copyright, 1885,<br /> +By MATURIN M. BALLOU.<br /><br /> + +<i>All rights reserved.</i><br /><br /><br /><br /> + + +ELEVENTH IMPRESSION<br /><br /><br /><br /> + + +<i>The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A.</i><br /> +Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these +pages, entitled "Due West; or Round the World in Ten Months," has +suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, +which consists of notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn +in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been to present a +comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict +the political and moral darkness which have so long enshrouded it. +A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful +flora and vegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty +enjoyment to the author that he desires to share the pleasure with +the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical +position of the island, its present critical condition, and the +proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it +at present of unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, +Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, and both are so Moorish +as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics.</p> + +<p style='text-align:right;'>M. M. B.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></td><td><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td> +Departure. — On Board Ship. — Arrival at Nassau. — Capital +of the Bahamas. — Climate. — Soil. — Fruits and Flowers. +— Magic Fertility. — Colored Population. — The Blockade +Runners. — Population. — Products. — A Picturesque Local +Scene. — Superstition. — Fish Story. — The Silk-Cotton +Tree. — Remarkable Vegetation. — The Sea Gardens. — Marine +Animal Life. — The Bahama Banks. — Burial at Sea. — Venal +Officials. — Historical Characters. — The Early Buccaneers. +— Diving for Drinking-Water. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Among the Islands. — San Salvador. — A Glimpse at the Stars. — Hayti. — The +Gulf Stream. — The Caribbean Sea. — +Latitude and Longitude. — The Southern Coast of Cuba. — A +Famous Old Fortress. — Fate of Political Prisoners. — The +Oldest City in Cuba. — The Aborigines. — Cuban Cathedrals. +— Drinking Saloons. — Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. — Scenes +in Santiago de Cuba. — Devoured by Sharks. — Lying at +Anchor. — Wreck of a Historic Ship. — Cuban Circulating +Medium. — Tropical Temperature. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Doubling Cape Cruz. — Trinidad. — Cienfuegos. — The Plaza. +— Beggars. — Visit to a Sugar Plantation. — Something +about Sugar. — An Original Character. — A Tropical Fruit +Garden. — Cuban Hospitality. — The Banana. — Lottery +Tickets. — Chinese Coolies. — Blindness in Cuba. — Birds +and Poultry. — The Cock-Pit. — Negro Slavery, To-Day. — +Spanish Slaveholders. — A Slave Mutiny. — A Pleasant +Journey across the Island. — Pictures of the Interior. — +Scenery about Matanzas. — The Tropics and the North +contrasted. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Great Genoese Pilot. — Discovery of Cuba. — Its Various +Names. — Treatment of the Natives. — Tobacco! — Flora of +the Island. — Strange Idols. — Antiquity. — Habits of the +Aborigines. — Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. — A +Native Entertainment. — Paying Tribute. — Ancient Remains. +— Wrong Impression of Columbus. — First Attempt at +Colonization. — Battle with the Indians. — First Governor +of Cuba. — Founding Cities. — Emigration from Spain. — +Conquest of Mexico. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Baracoa, the First Capital. — West Indian Buccaneers. — +Military Despotism. — A Perpetual State of Siege. — A +Patriotic Son of Cuba. — Political Condition of the Island. +— Education of Cuban Youths. — Attempts at Revolution. — +Fate of General Narciso Lopez. — The Late Civil War and its +Leader. — Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. — +Stronghold of the Insurgents. — Guerrillas. — Want of +Self-Reliance. — Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. — +What Spain was. — What Spain is. — Rise and Fall of an +Empire. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Geographical. — A Remarkable Weed. — Turtle-Hunting. — +Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. — The Gulf Stream. — Deep-Sea +Soundings. — Mountain Range of Cuba. — Curious Geological +Facts. — Subterranean Caverns. — Wild Animals. — The +Rivers of the Island. — Fine Harbors. — Historic Memories +of the Caribbean Sea. — Sentinel of the Gulf. — Importance +of the Position. — Climate. — Hints for Invalids. — +Matanzas. — Execution of a Patriot. — Valley of Yumuri; +Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +City of Havana. — First Impressions. — The Harbor. — +Institutions. — Lack of Educational Facilities. — Cuban +Women. — Street Etiquette. — Architecture. — Domestic +Arrangements. — Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. — +Public Vehicles. — Uncleanliness of the Streets. — Spanish +or African! — The Church Bells. — Home-Keeping Habits of +Ladies. — Their Patriotism. — Personal Characteristics. — +Low Ebb of Social Life. — Priestcraft. — Female Virtue. — +Domestic Ties. — A Festive Population. — Cosmetics. — +Sea-Bathing. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Sabbath Scenes in Havana. — Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. +— City Squares and their Ornamentation. — The Cathedral. — +Tomb of Columbus. — Plaza de Armas. — Out-Door Concerts. — +Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. — Superbly Appointed Cafés. +— Gambling. — Lottery Tickets. — Fast Life. — Masquerade +Balls. — Carnival Days. — The Famous Tacon Theatre. — The +Havana Casino. — Public Statues. — Beauties of the +Governor's Garden. — The Alameda. — The Old Bell-Ringer. — +Military Mass. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Political Inquisition. — Fashionable Streets of the City. — +Tradesmen's Signs. — Bankrupt Condition of Traders. — The +Spanish Army. — Exiled Patriots. — Arrival of Recruits. — +The Garrote. — A Military Execution. — Cuban Milk Dealers. +— Exposure of Domestic Life. — Living in the Open Air. — +The Campo Santo of Havana. — A Funeral Cortége. — Punishing +Slaves. — Campo de Marte. — Hotel Telegrafo. — Environs of +the City. — Bishop's Garden. — Consul-General Williams. — +Mineral Springs. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Fish-Market of Havana. — The Dying Dolphin. — Tax upon +the Trade. — Extraordinary Monopoly. — Harbor Boats. — A +Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. — King of the Isle of +Pines. — The Offered Reward. — Sentinels in the Plaza de +Armas. — The Governor-General and the Intruder. — "I am +Captain Marti!" — The Betrayal. — The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. +— The Pardon and the Reward. — Tacon's Stewardship and +Official Career. — Monopoly of Theatricals. — A Negro +Festival. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Havana Lottery. — Its Influence. — Hospitality of the +Cubans. — About Bonnets. — The Creole Lady's Face. — Love +of Flowers. — An Atmospheric Narcotic. — The Treacherous +Indian Fig. — How the Cocoanut is propagated. — Cost of +Living in Cuba. — Spurious Liquors. — A Pleasant Health +Resort. — The Cock-Pit. — Game-Birds. — Their Management. +— A Cuban Cock-Fight. — Garden of the World. — About +Birds. — Stewed Owl! — Slaughter of the Innocents. — The +Various Fruits. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Traveling by Volante. — Want of Inland Communication. — +Americans Profitable Customers. — The Cruel National Game. +— The Plaza de Toros. — Description of a Bull-Fight. — The +Infection of Cruelty. — The Romans and Spaniards compared. +— Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" — Women at the +Fight. — The Nobility of the Island. — The Monteros. — +Ignorance of the Common People. — Scenes in the Central +Market, Havana. — Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. — An Original +Style of Dude. — A Mendicant Prince. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Introduction of Sugar-Cane. — Sugar Plantations. — Mode of +Manufacture. — Slaves on the Plantations. — African +Amusements. — The Grinding Season. — The Coffee +Plantations. — A Floral Paradise. — Refugees from San +Domingo. — Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. — Three +Staple Productions of Cuba. — Raising Coffee and Tobacco. — +Best Soils for the Tobacco. — Agricultural Possibilities. — +The Cuban Fire-Fly. — A Much-Dreaded Insect. — The Ceiba +Tree. — About Horses and Oxen. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XIV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Consumption of Tobacco. — The Delicious Fruits of the +Tropics. — Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. — +The Royal Palm. — The Mulberry Tree. — Silk Culture. — The +Island once covered by Forests. — No Poisonous Reptiles. — +The Cuban Bloodhound. — Hotbed of African Slavery. — +Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. — The Coolie System of +Slavery. — Ah-Lee draws a Prize. — Native African Races. — +Negroes buying their Freedom. — Laws favoring the Slaves. — +Example of San Domingo. — General Emancipation. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_260">260</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Slave Trade with Africa. — Where the Slavers made their +Landing. — An Early Morning Ride. — Slaves marching to +Daily Labor. — Fragrance of the Early Day. — Mist upon the +Waters. — A Slave Ship. — A Beautiful but Guilty +Brigantine. — A French Cruiser. — Cunning Seamanship. — A +Wild Goose Chase. — A Cuban Posada. — Visit to a Coffee +Estate. — Landing a Slave Cargo. — A Sight to challenge +Sympathy and Indignation. — Half-Starved Victims. — +Destruction of the Slave Ship. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_282">282</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XVI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Antique Appearance of Everything. — The Yeomen of Cuba. — A +Montero's Home. — Personal Experience. — The Soil of the +Island. — Oppression by the Government. — Spanish Justice +in Havana. — Tax upon the Necessities of Life. — The +Proposed Treaty with Spain. — A One-Sided Proposition. — A +Much Taxed People. — Some of the Items of Taxation. — Fraud +and Bankruptcy. — The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. — +Destiny of Cuba. — A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. — +Political Condition. — Pictures of Memory. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_300">300</a></td></tr> + +</table> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1>DUE SOUTH.</h1> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Departure. — On Board Ship. — Arrival at Nassau. — Capital +of the Bahamas. — Climate. — Soil. — Fruits and Flowers. +— Magic Fertility. — Colored Population. — The Blockade +Runners. — Population. — Products. — A Picturesque Local +Scene. — Superstition. — Fish Story. — The Silk-Cotton +Tree. — Remarkable Vegetation. — The Sea Gardens. — Marine +Animal Life. — The Bahama Banks. — Burial at Sea. — Venal +Officials. — Historical Characters. — The Early Buccaneers. +— Diving for Drinking-Water. +</div> + +<p>We left Boston in a blustering snow-storm on the morning of February +25th, and reached New York city to find it also clothed in a wintry +garb, Broadway being lined on either side of its entire length with +tall piles of snow, like haycocks, prepared for carting away during +the coming night. Next morning, when we drove to the dock to take +passage on board the steamship Cienfuegos, the snow-mounds had all +been removed. The mail steamer sailed promptly at the hour assigned, +hauled out into the stream by a couple of noisy little tugs, with +two-inch hawsers made fast to stem and stern. Before sunset the pilot +left the ship, which was then headed due south for Nassau, N. P., +escorted by large fields of floating ice, here and there decked with +lazy snow-white sea-gulls. The sharp northwest wind, though +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> +blustering and aggressive, was in our favor, and the ship spread all +her artificial wings as auxiliary to her natural motor. We doubled +Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout well in towards the shore, sighting on +the afternoon of the fourth day the Island of Abaco, largest of the +Bahama Isles, with its famous "Hole in the Wall" and sponge-lined +shore. The woolen clothing worn when we came on board ship had already +become oppressive, the cabin thermometer indicating 72° Fahrenheit. +With nothing to engage the eye save the blue sky and the bluer water, +the most is made of every circumstance at sea, and even trivial +occurrences become notable. The playful dolphins went through their +aquatic pantomime for our amusement. Half a dozen of them started off +just ahead of the cutwater, and raced the ship for two hours, keeping +exactly the same relative distance ahead without any apparent effort. +Scores of others leaped out of the water and plunged in again in +graceful curves, as though they enjoyed the sport. A tiny land bird +flew on board, and was chased all over the ship by one or two +juveniles until caught, panting and trembling with the unwonted +exertion. Presently it was given its liberty, partook freely of bread +crumbs and drank of fresh water, then assumed a perch aloft, where it +carefully dressed its feathers, and after thanking its entertainers +with a few cheerful notes it extended its wings and launched out into +space, no land being in sight. The broken mainmast of a ship, +floating, with considerable top hamper attached, was passed within a +cable's length, suggestive of a recent wreck, and inducing a thousand +dreary surmises. At first it was announced as the sea serpent, but its +true nature was soon obvious. At midnight, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>March 1st, Nassau light +hove in sight, dimmed by a thin, soft haze, which hung over the water, +and through which the light, by some law of refraction, seemed to be +coming out to meet the ship. Overhead all was bright,—almost dazzling +with unnumbered stars and familiar constellations, like silver +spangles on a background of blue velvet. We anchored off the island an +hour before daylight, the harbor being too shallow to admit the ship. +A forbidding sand bar blocks the entrance, inside of which the water +is but fifteen feet deep. Indeed, Nassau would have no harbor at all +were it not that nature has kindly placed Hog Island in the form of a +break-water, just off the town. The vibrating hull of the Cienfuegos +was once more at rest; the stout heart-throbs, the panting and +trembling, of the great engine had ceased; the wheelhouse and decks +were deserted, and one was fain to turn in below for a brief nap +before landing on this the most populous of the Bahamas.</p> + +<p>The island, which was settled by Europeans as early as 1629, embraces +nearly a hundred square miles, forming an oasis in the desert of +waters. It is sixteen miles long and about one half as wide, +containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, more or less, who can hardly +be designated as an enterprising community. On first landing, +everything strikes the visitor as being peculiarly foreign,—almost +unique. The town is situated on the northerly front of the island, +extending along the shore for a couple of miles, and back to a crest +of land which rises to nearly the height of a hundred feet. This +elevation is crowned by the residence of the English Governor-General, +in front of which may be seen a colossal but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>not admirable statue of +Columbus. The town boasts a small public library, a museum, theatre, +several small churches, a prison, a hospital, and a bank. The +government maintains one company of infantry, composed of black men, +officered by whites. It must be admitted that they present a fine +military appearance when on parade. Nassau has long been a popular +resort for invalids who seek a soft, equable climate, and as it lies +between the warm South Atlantic and the Gulf Stream it is +characterized by the usual temperature of the tropics. There seemed to +be a certain enervating influence in the atmosphere, under the effects +of which the habitués of the place were plainly struck with a spirit +of indolence. The difference between those just arrived and the +regular guests of the Victoria Hotel, in this respect, could not fail +to be observed. The languidly oppressive warmth imparts a certain +softness to manners, a voluptuous love of idleness, and a glow to the +affections which are experienced with less force at the North. Neither +snow nor frost is ever encountered here, and yet it is as near to +Boston or New York as is the city of Chicago. The temperature, we are +told, never falls below 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, the +variations rarely exceeding five degrees in twenty-four hours. In +Florida a change of twenty degrees is not unusual within the period of +a single day. The thermometer stood at 73° on the first day of March, +and everything was bathed in soft sunlight.</p> + +<p>It is somewhat singular that an island like New Providence, which is +practically without soil, should be so remarkably productive in its +vegetation. It is surrounded by low-lying coral reefs, and is itself +composed of coral and limestone. These, pulverized, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>actually form the +earth out of which spring noble palm, banana, ceiba, orange, lemon, +tamarind, almond, mahogany, and cocoanut trees, with a hundred and one +other varieties of fruits, flowers, and woods, including the +bread-fruit tree, that natural food for indolent natives of equatorial +regions. Of course in such a soil the plough is unknown, its +substitutes being the pickaxe and crowbar. However, science teaches us +that all soils are but broken and decomposed rock, pulverized by +various agencies acting through long periods of time. So the molten +lava which once poured from the fiery mouth of Vesuvius has become the +soil of thriving vineyards, which produce the priceless Lachryma +Christi wine. This transformation is not accomplished in a lifetime, +but is the result of ages of slow disintegration.</p> + +<p>Among other flowering trees, some strikingly beautiful specimens of +the alligator-pear in full bloom were observed, the blossom suggesting +the passion-flower. While our favorite garden plants at the North are +satisfied to bloom upon lowly bushes, at the South they are far more +ambitious, and develop into tall trees, though sometimes at the +partial expense of their fragrance. The air was full of sweet perfume +from the white blossoms of the shaddock, contrasting with the deep +glossy green of its thick-set leaves, the spicy pimento and cinnamon +trees being also noticeable. With all this charming floral effect the +bird melody which greets the ear in Florida was wanting, though it +would seem to be so natural an adjunct to the surroundings. Nature's +never-failing rule of compensation is manifested here: all the +attractions are not bestowed upon any one class; brilliancy of +feathers and sweetness of song do not go together. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>The torrid zone +endows the native birds with brilliant plumage, while the colder North +gives its feathered tribes the winning charm of melody.</p> + +<p>The soil of these Bahama Islands, composed of such unpromising +ingredients, shows in its prolific yield how much vegetation depends +for its sustenance upon atmospheric air, especially in tropical +climes. The landlord of the Victoria Hotel told us, as an evidence of +the fertility of the soil, that radish seeds which were planted on the +first day of the month would sufficiently mature and ripen by the +twenty-first—that is in three weeks—for use upon the table; and also +that potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons were relatively +expeditious in ripening here after planting. Our mind reverted to the +jugglers of Madras and Bombay, who made an orange-tree grow from the +seed, and bear fruit before our very eyes, at a single sitting.</p> + +<p>The luscious pineapple, zapota, mango, pomegranate, guava, star-apple, +citron, custard-apple, mammee, and other fruits abound. The +profuseness and variety of beautiful ferns and orchidaceous plants +will also be sure to attract the attention of the Northern visitor. +The rocky formation of the soil produces good natural roads, so that a +long drive in the environs of Nassau is like a pleasure excursion over +a well-macadamized thoroughfare. We were told of a delightful drive of +fifteen miles in length which follows the sea beach the whole +distance, but did not find time to test its attractions, though +strongly tempted by the excellence of the roads. Here, as in other +tropical regions, each month has its special floral display, although +there are many, and indeed a majority, of the plants which continue to +flower all <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>the year round. We observed that the stone walls and +hedges were now and again covered for short spaces with the +coral-vine, whose red blossoms, so pleasing to the eye, emit no odor. +The yellow jasmine was dazzlingly conspicuous everywhere, and very +fragrant. Red and white roses, various species of cacti, and +tube-roses bloomed before the rude thatched cabins of the negroes in +the environs, as well as in the tiny front gardens of the whites in +the streets of the town; while red, white, and pink oleanders grew as +tall as trees, and flower here every month in the year. The +night-blooming cereus abounds, opening just at sunset, and closing +again at break of day. The outside leaves of this poetical flower are +of a pale green, the inner ones of a pure wax-like white, and the +petals light yellow. Complete, it is about eight inches long, and from +twelve to fifteen in circumference.</p> + +<p>While we drove through the suburbs, slatternly, half-clothed family +groups of negroes watched us with curious eyes, and on the road aged +colored men and women were occasionally met, who saluted us with grave +dignity. No one seemed to be at work; sunshine was the only +perceptible thing going on, ripening the fruits and vegetables by its +genial rays, while the negroes waited for the harvest. Like the birds, +they had no occasion to sow, but only to pluck and to eat. There was, +both in and out of the town, a tumble-down, mouldy aspect to the +dwellings, which seemed to be singularly neglected and permitted to +lapse into decay. With the exception of the town of Nassau, and its +immediate environs, New Providence is nearly all water and wilderness; +it has some circumscribed lakes, but no mountains, rivers, or +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +rivulets. The island is justly famous for the beauty and variety of +its lovely flowers. It is true that the rose is not quite equal in +color, development, and fragrance to ours of the North; Nature has so +many indigenous flowers on which to expend her liberality that she +bestows less attention upon this, the loveliest of them all. The +Cherokee rose, single-leafed, now so rare with us, seems here to have +found a congenial foreign home. In the suburbs of Nassau are many +attractive flowers, fostered only by the hand of Nature. Among them +was the triangular cactus, with its beautiful yellow blossom, like a +small sunflower, supported by a deep green triangular stem.</p> + +<p>The pendulous cactus was also hanging here and there on walls and tree +trunks, in queer little jointed, pipe-stem branches. The royal palm, +that king of tropical vegetation, is not very abundant here, but yet +sufficiently so to characterize the place. Its roots resemble those of +asparagus, and are innumerable. Another peculiarity of the palm is +that it starts a full-sized trunk; therefore, not the diameter, but +the height, determines its age, which is recorded by annual concentric +rings clearly defined upon its tall, straight stem.</p> + +<p>During the late civil war in the United States, when blockade runners +made this place a port of call and a harbor for refitting, it was by +English connivance practically a Confederate port. The officers and +sailors expended their ill-gotten wealth with the usual lavishness of +the irresponsible, the people of Nassau reaping thereby a fabulous +harvest in cash. This was quite demoralizing to honest industry, and, +as might be expected, a serious reaction has followed. Legitimate +trade and industry will require years <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>before they can reassert +themselves. Sudden and seeming prosperity is almost sure to be equally +transitory. We were told that, during the entire period in which the +Confederates resorted here under the open encouragement and protection +of England, the town was the scene of the most shameful drunken orgies +from morning until night. Lewdness and crime were rampant. Officers +played pitch-penny on the veranda of the Victoria Hotel with gold +eagles, and affiliated openly with negresses. The evil influence upon +all concerned was inevitable, and its poisonous effect is not yet +obliterated.</p> + +<p>Three quarters of the present population are negroes, but of course +all trace of the aborigines has disappeared. It is curious and +interesting to know what Columbus thought of them. He wrote to his +royal mistress, after having explored these Bahamas, as follows: "This +country excels all others as far as the day surpasses the night in +splendor; the natives love their neighbors as themselves: their +conversation is the sweetest imaginable, and their faces are always +smiling. So gentle and so affectionate are they that I swear to your +highness there is no better people in the world."</p> + +<p>The negroes are mostly engaged in cultivating patches of pineapples, +and yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables; a large number of the +males employ themselves also in fishing and gathering sponges. It will +be remembered that from this locality comes the principal supply of +coarse sponge for Europe and America. There is also a considerable +trade, carried on in a small way, in fine turtle-shell, which is +polished in an exquisite manner, and manufactured by the natives into +ornaments. Though the Bahama <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>sponges are not equal to those obtained +in the Mediterranean, still they are marketable, and Nassau exports +half a million dollars' worth annually. It is a curious fact that +sponges can be propagated by cuttings taken from living specimens, +which, when attached to a piece of board and sunk in the sea, will +increase and multiply. Thus the finest Mediterranean specimens may be +successfully transplanted to the coral reefs of these islands, the +only requisite to their sustenance seeming to be a coralline shore and +limestone surroundings. Another important industry which gives +employment to a considerable number of the inhabitants is the canning +of pineapples, a process which is equivalent to preserving them for +any length of time. One firm on Bay Street, as we were informed, +canned and exported nearly a million of pines in one season, lately; +and another, engaged in the fresh-fruit trade, shipped to the States +fifteen cargoes of pines in one year, besides many thousands of +cocoanuts. These are not all raised in Nassau, but this port is made +the headquarters for collecting and disposing of the fruit grown upon +what are termed the out-islands, as well as marketing the large +product of its own soil. It is but a short drive inland to the +extensive pineapple fields, where the handsome fruit may be seen in +the several stages of growth, varying according to the season of the +year. If intended for exportation, the fruit is gathered green; if for +canning purposes, the riper it is the better. The visitor will also be +impressed by the beauty and grace of the cocoanut trees, their pinnate +leaves often a hundred feet from the ground, notwithstanding the bare +cylindrical stem attains a thickness of only two feet.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +The Royal Victoria Hotel, though bearing a loyal name, is kept by an +American, and is a very substantial, capacious building, composed of +native limestone, four stories high, three of which are surrounded by +wide piazzas, which afford the shade so necessary in a land of +perpetual summer. The native stone of which the island is composed is +so soft when first quarried that it can easily be cut or sawed into +any shape desired, but it hardens very rapidly after exposure to the +atmosphere. The hotel will accommodate three hundred guests, and is a +positive necessity for the comfort and prosperity of the place. It was +built and is owned by the British government, who erected it some +twenty-five years since. At the time of our arrival there was gathered +under the lofty Moorish portico of the hotel a most picturesque group +of negroes, of both sexes and of all ages, their ebony faces forming a +strong contrast to the background of well-whitewashed walls. Some of +the women were dressed in neat calico gowns, and wore broad-brimmed +straw hats; some were in rags, hatless, shoeless, and barelegged; some +had high-colored kerchiefs wound turban-like about their woolly heads; +and some wore scarlet shawls, the sight of which would have driven a +Spanish bull raving mad. There were coquettish mulatto girls with +bouquets for sale, and fancy flowers wrought of shells; these last of +most exquisite workmanship. Specimens of this native shell-work were +sent to the Vienna Exposition, where they received honorable mention, +and were afterwards purchased and presented to the Prince of Wales. +Old gray-haired negroes, with snow-white beards on a black ground, +offered fruits in great variety,—zapotas, mangoes, pineapples, and +grape-fruit. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>Others had long strings of sponges for sale, wound +round their shoulders like huge snakes; some of these were good, but +many were utterly useless. No one knows this better than the cunning +negroes themselves, but strangers, only touching at Nassau, they do +not expect to see again, and there is proverbially cheating in all +trades but ours. A bright, thrifty-looking colored woman had spread +out her striped shawl upon the ground, and on this arrayed a really +fine collection of conch-shells for sale, delicately polished, and of +choice shapes. When first brought to the surface by the divers they +are not infrequently found to contain pearls imbedded in the palatable +and nutritious meat. These pearls are generally of a pinkish hue, and +greatly prized by the jewelers. Now and then a diver will realize a +hundred dollars for one of them. From the conch-shell also come the +best shell cameos. A smart half-breed offered canes of ebony, lignum +vitæ, lance, and orange wood, all of native growth. He was dressed in +a white linen jacket, pantaloons to match, with a semi-military cap, +cocked on one side of his head,—quite a colored dude. The women who +sell native-made baskets are most persistent, but if you purchase of +them make your own change, for they are apt to take money away for +this purpose and to forget to return. Negro nature is frail, +characterized at Nassau by theft and licentiousness, but great crimes +are rare. If you have occasion to hire a boat for a sail in the +harbor, be sure to find and employ "Bushy," a tall, intelligent +darkey, the best boatman and stroke-oar in Nassau.</p> + +<p>Bushy showed us what he called a fish-whip, made from the whipray, a +fish quite new to us, but indigenous <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>to these waters. With a body +shaped like a flounder, it has a tail often ten feet long, tapering +from about one inch in thickness at the butt to an eighth of an inch +at the small end. When dried this resembles whalebone, and makes a +good coach-whip. There is a great variety of fish in and about the +Bahamas. We saw, just landed at Nassau, a jew-fish, which takes the +same place here that the halibut fills at the North, being cut into +steaks and fried in a similar manner. They are among the largest of +edible fish, and this specimen weighed about four hundred pounds. +According to Bushy, at certain seasons of the year the jew-fish lies +dormant upon the sandy bottom, and refuses to take the bait. In these +transparent waters he is easily seen when in this condition, and the +native fishermen then dive down and place a stout hook in his mouth! +Though this may sound like a "fish story," we were assured by others +of its truth. Bushy undertook to give us the names of the various +fishes which abound here, but the long list of them and his peculiar +pronunciation drove us nearly wild. Still a few are remembered; such +as the yellow-tailed snapper, striped snapper, pork-fish, angel-fish, +cat-fish, hound-fish, the grouper, sucking-fish, and so on. Both +harbor and deep sea fishing afford the visitor to Nassau excellent +amusement, and many sportsmen go thither annually from New York solely +for its enjoyment.</p> + +<p>The colored people of Nassau, as we were assured by one competent to +speak upon the subject, form a religious community, according to the +ordinary acceptation of the term. They are very fond of church-going, +and of singing and shouting on all religious <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>occasions. Nervously +emotional, they work themselves up to a hysterical condition so +furious as to threaten their sanity, but having naturally so little of +that qualification, they are pretty safe. No people could possibly be +more superstitious. They shut up and double lock the doors and windows +of their cabins at night to keep out evil spirits. There are regular +professional man-witches among them, persons a little shrewder and +more cunning than their fellows. The very ignorant believe in a sort +of fetichism, so that when a boat starts on a sponge-fishing trip, the +obeah man is called upon for some coöperation and mysticism, to insure +a successful return of the crew. The sponge fishermen have several +hundred boats regularly licensed, and measuring on an average twenty +tons each. On favorable occasions these men lay aside their legitimate +calling, and become for the time being wreckers, an occupation which +verges only too closely upon piracy. The intricate navigation of these +waters, dotted by hundreds of small reefs and islands, and which can +be traversed by only three safe channels, has furnished in former +years a large amount of shipwrecked merchandise to Nassau. The +wrecking business at best is extremely demoralizing, unfitting any +community of men for legitimate industry, as we know very well by the +experience gained on our own Florida shore. Men who have cruised +fruitlessly for months in search of a profitable wreck will sometimes +be tempted to decoy a ship from her proper course, and lead her upon +the rocks, by a display of false lights.</p> + +<p>In front of the Victoria Hotel are some noble specimens of the ceiba, +or silk-cotton tree, as it is called here, the finest and loftiest we +have seen in any <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>country. These trees, naturally slow growers, must +be over a century in age, and afford, by their widespread branches, a +shade equally graceful and grateful. Like the india-rubber trees of +Asia, these ceibas have at least one half of their anaconda-like roots +exposed upon the surface of the ground, dividing the lower portion of +the stem into supporting buttresses, a curious piece of finesse on the +part of nature to overcome the disadvantage of insufficient soil. The +tree bears annually a large seed-pod, packed with cotton of a soft, +silky texture, and hence its name. It is, however, suitable neither +for timber nor fuel, and the small product of cotton is seldom if ever +gathered. The islanders are proud of a single specimen of the banyan +tree of considerable size, which they show to all visitors; but it +cannot be indigenous—it must have been brought in its youth from +Asia. There is, however, in these West Indian isles, the black +mangrove, with very similar habit to the banyan. The limbs spread to +such an extent from the trunk as to require support to prevent them +from breaking off or bending to the ground by their own weight; but to +obviate this, nature has endowed the tree with a peculiar growth. When +the branches have become so heavy as to be no longer able to support +themselves, they send forth from the under side sprigs which, rapidly +descending to the ground, take root like the banyan, and become +supporting columns to the heavy branches above. So the writer has seen +in Hindostan a vine which grew, almost leafless, closely +entwined around the trees to the very top, whence it descended, took +fresh root, and ascended the nearest adjoining tree, until it had gone +on binding an entire grove in a ligneous rope. Long tendrils of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +love-vine, that curious aerial creeper, which feeds on air alone, +were seen hanging across some of the low branches of the Nassau trees, +and we were told that the plant will grow equally well if hung upon a +nail indoors. Emblematic of true affection, it clings, like Japanese +ivy, tenaciously to the object it fixes upon. One specimen was shown +to us which had developed to the size of the human hand from a single +leaf carelessly pinned by a guest to one of the chamber walls of the +hotel.</p> + +<p>There are said to be six hundred of the Bahama islands, large and +small, of which Nassau is the capital, and there, as already +intimated, the English Governor-General resides. This numerical +calculation is undoubtedly correct; many are mere rocky islets, and +not more than twenty have fixed inhabitants. Is there anything more +wonderful in nature than that these hundreds of isles should have been +built up from the bottom of the sea by insects so small as to be +microscopic? All lie north of Cuba and St. Domingo, just opposite the +Gulf of Mexico, easily accessible from our own shores by a short and +pleasant sea-voyage of three or four days. They are especially +inviting to those persons who have occasion to avoid the rigor of +Northern winters. People threatened with consumption seek Nassau on +sanitary principles, and yet it was found upon inquiry that many +natives die of that insidious disease, which rapidly runs its career +when it is first developed in a tropical climate. To the author it +would seem that consumptives might find resorts better adapted to the +recovery of their health. Intermittent fever, also, is not unknown at +Nassau.</p> + +<p>The sea gardens, as they are called, situated just <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>off the shores of +the island, are well worth a visit; where, by means of a simple +instrument of wood and glass, one is enabled to look many fathoms +below the surface of the water, which is here so remarkable for its +transparency. These water glasses are all of home manufacture, easily +improvised, being formed of a small wooden box three or four inches +square, open at the top, and having a water-tight glass bottom. With +the glass portion slightly submerged, one is enabled to see distinctly +the beautiful coral reefs, with their marvelous surroundings. There +are displayed tiny caves and grottoes of white coral of great delicacy +and variety, star-fishes, sea-urchins, growing sponges, sea-fans, and +gaudy-colored tropical fishes, including the humming-bird-fish, and +others like butterflies with mottled fins and scales, and that little +oddity the rainbow-fish. The prevailing color of this attractive +creature is dark green, but the tinted margins of its scales so +reflect the light as to show all the colors of the rainbow, and hence +its name. When bottled in alcohol, these fairy-like denizens of the +deep lose their brilliancy, which they exhibit only in their native +element. This unique display is greatly enhanced in beauty by the +clearness of the Bahama waters, and the reflected light from the +snow-white sandy bottom, dotted here and there by curious and delicate +shells of opalescent lustre. One longs to descend among these coral +bowers,—these mermaid-gardens,—and pluck of the submarine flora in +its purple, yellow, and scarlet freshness.</p> + +<p>It will be remembered that Columbus wrote home to his royal patrons +that the fish which abounded in the seas partook of the same novelty +which characterized everything else in the New World. This was about +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +four hundred years ago, before the great Genoese had discovered Cuba. +"The fish," as he wrote, "rivaled the birds in tropical brilliancy of +color, the scales of some of them glancing back the rays of light like +precious stones, as they sported about the ships and flashed gleams of +gold and silver through the clear water."</p> + +<p>The surface life of these translucent waters is also extremely +interesting. Here the floating jelly-fish, called, from its +phosphorescence, the glow-worm of the sea, is observed in great +variety, sheltering little colonies of young fishes within its +tentacles, which rush forth for a moment to capture some passing mite, +and as quickly return again to their shelter. One takes up a handful +of the floating gulf-weed and finds, within the pale yellow leaves and +berries, tiny pipe-fish, sea-horses, and the little nest-building +antennarius, thus forming a buoyant home for parasites, crabs, and +mollusks, itself a sort of mistletoe of the ocean. The young of the +mackerel and the herring glance all about just beneath the surface +near the shore, like myriad pieces of silver. Now and again that +particolored formation of marine life, the Portuguese man-of-war, is +observed, its long ventral fins spread out like human fingers to +steady it upon the surface of the water. Verily, the German scientist +who says there is more of animal life beneath the surface of the sea +than above it cannot be far amiss. This seems to be the more +reasonable when we consider the relative proportions of land and +water. The whole surface of the globe is supposed to have an area of +about two hundred million square miles. Of these only about fifty +millions are dry land. Within the harbor of Nassau the divisions of +shoal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>and deep water presented most singular and clearly defined +lines of color, azure, purple, and orange-leaf green,—so marked as to +be visible half a mile away. All was beneath a sky so deeply and +serenely blue as constantly to recall the arching heavens of middle +India.</p> + +<p>The Bahama Banks is a familiar expression to most of us, but perhaps +few clearly understand the significance of the term, which is applied +to a remarkable plateau at the western extremity of the archipelago, +occupying a space between two and three hundred miles long, and about +one third as wide. These banks, as they are called, rise almost +perpendicularly from an unfathomable depth of water, and are of coral +formation. In sailing over them the bottom is distinctly seen from the +ship's deck, the depth of water being almost uniformly forty to fifty +feet. Some years since, when the author was crossing these banks in a +sailing ship, a death occurred among the foremast hands, and the usual +sea burial followed. The corpse was sewn up in a hammock, with iron +weights at the feet, the more readily to sink it. After reading the +burial service the body was launched into the sea from a grating +rigged out of a gangway amidship. The waters were perfectly calm, and +the barque had but little headway. Indeed, we lay almost as still as +though anchored, so that the body was seen to descend slowly alongside +until it reached the calcareous, sandy bottom, where it assumed an +upright and strangely lifelike position, as though standing upon its +feet. An ominous silence reigned among the watching crew, and it was a +decided relief to all hands when a northerly wind sprang up, filling +the canvas and giving the vessel steerage way.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +So many years have passed since the occurrence of the scene just +related that we may give its sequel without impropriety, though, at +the same time, we expose the venal character of Spanish officials. The +man we buried on the Bahama Banks had died of small-pox, though no +other person on board showed any symptoms of the disease. On entering +the harbor of Havana, three days later, we had been hailed from Moro +Castle and had returned the usual answer. A couple of doubloons in +gold made the boarding officer conveniently blind, and a similar fee +thrust quietly into the doctor's hand insured a "clean bill of +health," under which we were permitted to land! The alternative was +twenty-one days' quarantine.</p> + +<p>Fort Montague, mounting four rusty guns, "with ne'er a touch-hole to +any on 'em," as Bushy informed us, stands upon a projecting point +about a mile from the town of Nassau, the road thither forming a +delightful evening promenade, or drive. The fort is old, crumbling, +and time-worn, but was once occupied by the buccaneers as a most +important stronghold commanding the narrow channel. These sea-robbers +imposed a heavy tax upon all shipping passing this way, and for many +years realized a large income from this source. It was only piracy in +another form. Most vessels found it cheaper to pay than to fight. When +the notorious Black Beard had his headquarters at Nassau, he sought no +such pretext, but preyed upon all commerce alike, provided the vessels +were not too well armed to be captured. This notorious pirate had an +innate love for cruelty, and often tortured his captives without any +apparent purpose, after the fashion of our Western Indians. When the +English lashed the mutineers of Delhi and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>Cawnpore to the muzzles of +their cannon and blew them to pieces, they were enacting no new +tragedy; legend and history tell us that Black Beard, the pirate of +the Windward Passage, set them that example many years before. His +rule was to murder all prisoners who would not join his ship, and +those whom he took fighting, that is, with arms in their hands, were +subjected to torture, one form of which was that of lashing captives +to the cannon's mouth and applying the match. Fort Montague is not +occupied by even a corporal's guard to-day, and is of no efficiency +whatever against modern gunnery. The reader will thus observe that the +principal business which has engaged Nassau heretofore has been +wrecking, buccaneering, privateering, and blockade running.</p> + +<p>Some noted characters have found an asylum here, first and last. After +Lord Dunmore left Virginia he sought official position and made a home +on the island. He was appointed governor, and some of the buildings +erected by him are still pointed out to the visitor, especially that +known as the Old Fort, just back of the Victoria Hotel, crowning the +height. His summer seat, known as the Hermitage, is a quaint old +place, still in fair condition, and surrounded by oaks and cocoanut +trees, near the sea. Such matters do not often get into history, but +legend tells us that some strange orgies took place at the Hermitage, +where the play was for heavy stakes, and the drinking was of a similar +excessive character.</p> + +<p>Another well-known individual who sought to make a home here, and also +to escape from all former associations, was the notorious +Blennerhasset, a name familiar in connection with Aaron Burr. After +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +his trial, it will be remembered that he suddenly disappeared, and +was heard of no more. He left his country for his country's good, +changing his name to that of Carr. His objective point was Nassau; +there his undoubted talent and legal ability were duly recognized and +he was appointed government attorney, officiating in that capacity for +a number of years. Having deserted his first wife, he found another to +console him upon the island. At last wife number one appeared upon the +island. She had discovered his hiding-place, and a domestic war +ensued. Wife number two carried the day and the rightful spouse was +sent away and paid an annuity to keep away. The pretended Mr. Carr is +said to have finally lapsed into habits of excessive intemperance, and +to have found a stranger's grave on the island.</p> + +<p>Much of the drinking water, and certainly the best in use at Nassau, +as well as on some of the neighboring islands, is procured in a +remarkable, though very simple manner, from the sea. Not far from +shore, on the coral reefs, there are never-failing fresh water +springs, bubbling up from the bottom through the salt water with such +force as clearly to indicate their locality. Over these ocean springs +the people place sunken barrels filled with sand, one above another, +the bottoms and tops being displaced. The fresh water is thus +conducted to the surface through the column of sand, which forms a +perfect filterer. Such a crude arrangement is only temporary, liable +to be displaced by any severe storm which should agitate the +surrounding waters. If destroyed in the hurricane season, these +structures are not renewed until settled weather. In so small and low +lying an island as that of Nassau, it is very plain that this crystal +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +liquid, pure and tasteless, cannot come from any rainfall upon the +soil, and its existence, therefore, suggests a problem, the solving of +which we submit to the scientists.</p> + +<p>On the arid shores of the Persian Gulf, where rain so seldom falls, +and where there are no rills to refresh the parched soil, fresh water +is also obtained from submerged springs beneath the salt water. Here +it is brought to the surface by divers, who descend with a leather +bag, the mouth of which being opened over the bubbling spring is +quickly filled and closed again, being drawn to the surface by those +who are left there to assist the diver, who hastens upward for air. In +descending his feet are weighted with stones, which being cast off at +the proper moment, he naturally rises at once to the surface. This +operation is repeated until a sufficient quantity of fresh water is +procured. There is no mystery, however, as to the source of these +springs. The rain first falls on the distant mountains, and finding +its way downward through the fissures of rocky ledges, pursues its +course until it gushes forth in the bed of the gulf.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Among the Islands. — San Salvador. — A Glimpse at the +Stars. — Hayti. — The Gulf Stream. — The Caribbean Sea. — +Latitude and Longitude. — The Southern Coast of Cuba. — A +Famous Old Fortress. — Fate of Political Prisoners. — The +Oldest City in Cuba. — The Aborigines. — Cuban Cathedrals. +— Drinking Saloons. — Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. — Scenes +in Santiago de Cuba. — Devoured by Sharks. — Lying at +Anchor. — Wreck of a Historic Ship. — Cuban Circulating +Medium. — Tropical Temperature. +</div> + +<p>After leaving Nassau we stood northward for half a day in order to get +a safe and proper channel out of the crooked Bahamas, where there is +more of shoal than of navigable waters, leaving a score of small +islands behind us inhabited only by turtles, flamingoes, and sea +birds. But we were soon steaming due south again towards our objective +point, the island of Cuba, five hundred miles away. San Salvador was +sighted on our starboard bow, the spot where Columbus first landed in +the New World, though even this fact has not escaped the specious +arguments of the iconoclasts. Nevertheless, we gazed upon it with +reverent credulity. It will be found laid down on most English maps as +Cat Island, and is now the home of two or three thousand colored +people. San Salvador is nearly as large as New Providence, and is said +to claim some special advantages over that island in the quality of +its fruits. It is claimed that the oranges grown here are the sweetest +and best in the world, the same excellence being attributed to its +abundant yield of pineapples and other tropical fruits.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +There are so many of these small islands in the Bahama group that the +geographers may be excused for the heterogeneous manner in which they +have placed them on the common maps. To find their true and relative +position one must consult the sailing-charts, where absolute +correctness is supposed to be found, a prime necessity in such +intricate navigation. The total population of the Bahamas has been +ascertained, by census, to be a fraction less than forty thousand.</p> + +<p>The voyager in these latitudes is constantly saluted by gentle breezes +impregnated with tropical fragrance, intensified in effect by the +distant view of cocoanut, palmetto, and banana trees, clothing the +islands and growing down to the water's very edge. As we glide along, +gazing shoreward, now and again little groups of swallows seem to be +flitting only a few feet above the water for a considerable distance, +and then suddenly disappearing beneath the waves. These are +flying-fish enjoying an air bath, either in frolic or in fear; +pursued, may be, by some aqueous enemy, to escape from whom they essay +these aerial flights. The numerous islands, very many of which are +uninhabited, have yet their recorded names, more or less +characteristic, such as Rum Key, Turk's Island,—famous for the export +of salt,—Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Great and Little Inagua, Crooked +Island, and so on, all more or less noted for the disastrous wrecks +which have occurred on their low coralline shores. Our Northern cities +are largely dependent upon the Bahamas for their early annual supplies +of pineapples, cocoanuts, oranges, bananas, and some vegetables, in +which they are all more or less prolific. Here also is the harvest +field of the conchologist, the beaches <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>and coral reefs affording an +abundant supply of exquisitely colored shells, of all imaginable +shapes, including the large and valuable conch-shell, of which many +thousand dollars' worth are annually exported, the contents first +serving the divers for food.</p> + +<p>It was interesting to remain on deck at night and watch the heavens, +as we glided silently through the phosphorescent sea. Was it possible +the grand luminary, which rendered objects so plain that one could +almost read fine print with no other help, shone solely by borrowed +light? We all know it to be so, and also that Venus, Mars, Jupiter, +and Saturn shine in a similar manner with light reflected from the +sun. It was curious to adjust the telescope and bring the starry +system nearer to the vision. If we direct our gaze upon a planet we +find its disk sharply defined; change the direction and let it rest +upon a star, and we have only a point of light, more or less +brilliant. The glass reveals to us the fact that the star-dust which +we call the Milky Way is an aggregation of innumerable single suns. +Sweeping the arching blue with the telescope, we find some stars are +golden, some green, others purple, many silvery-white, and some are +twins. Probably there is no such thing as stars of the first and +second magnitude, as the common expression names them. It is most +likely only a question of distance, which regulates the brightness to +our vision. Science reduces the distances of heavenly bodies from our +earth to figures, but they are so immense as to be simply bewildering. +At the North the moon is silvery, but in tropical skies at night it +becomes golden, glowing, and luxurious in its splendor, never pale and +wan as it seems with us.</p> + +<p>When the lonely lighthouse which marks Cape <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>Maysi, at the easterly +point of Cuba, hove in sight on the starboard bow, the dim form of the +mountains of Hayti was also visible on the opposite horizon. A +subterranean connection is believed to exist between the mountain +ranges of the two islands.</p> + +<p>When the outline of the Haytian mountains was in view, it was very +natural to express a wish to visit the island at some convenient time. +This led to some intelligent and interesting remarks from a compagnon +de voyage, who had resided for two years at Port-au-Prince, the +capital. "Unless you are compelled to land there," said he, "I advise +you to avoid Hayti." He fully confirmed the reports of its barbarous +condition, and declared it to be in a rapid decadence, as regarded +every desirable element of civilization. In the country, a short +distance from either Gonaives, Jacmel, or Port-au-Prince, where the +mass of the negro population live, Voudou worship and cannibalism are +quite common at the present time. The influence of the Voudou priests +is so much feared by the government that the horrible practice is +little interfered with. When the officials are forced to take +cognizance of the crime, the lightest possible punishment is imposed +upon the convicted parties. The island of San Domingo is about half +the size of Cuba, Hayti occupying one third of the western portion, +the rest of the territory belonging to the republic of San Domingo. +"As to Port-au-Prince," said our informant, "it is the dirtiest place +I have ever seen in any part of the world." Nevertheless, the historic +interest clustering about the island is very great. It was the seat of +the first Spanish colony founded in the New World. Its soil has been +bathed in the blood of Europeans as well as of its aboriginal +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +inhabitants. For three hundred years it was the arena of fierce +struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English, passing +alternately under the dominion of each of these powers, until finally, +torn by insurrection and civil war, in 1804 it achieved its +independence. The city of San Domingo, capital of the republic, is the +oldest existing settlement by white men in the New World, having been +founded in 1494 by Bartholomew Columbus. It contains to-day a little +less than seven thousand inhabitants.</p> + +<p>We gave Cape Maysi a wide berth, as a dangerous reef makes out from +the land, eastward, for a mile or more. The fixed light at this point +is a hundred and thirty feet above sea level, and is visible nearly +twenty miles off shore.</p> + +<p>We were running through the Windward Passage, as it was called by the +early navigators, and whence one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its +way northward. The Gulf Stream! Who can explain the mystery of its +motive power; what keeps its tepid waters in a course of thousands of +miles from mingling with the rest of the sea; whence does it come? The +accepted theories are familiar enough, but we do not believe them. +Maury says the Gulf of Mexico is its fountain, and its mouth is the +Arctic Sea. The maps make the eastern shore of Cuba terminate as +sharply as a needle's point, but it proved to be very blunt in +reality, as it forms the gateway to the Caribbean Sea, where the +irregular coast line runs due north and south for the distance of many +leagues. It is a low, rocky shore for the most part, but rises +gradually as it recedes inland, until it assumes the form of hills so +lofty as to merit the designation of mountains.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +There was on board of our ship an intelligent resident of Santiago, +who was enthusiastic in his description of the plains and valleys +lying beyond the hills which stood so prominently on the coast,—hills +probably older than any tongue in which we could describe them. The +Scriptural Garden of Eden has absolutely been placed here by +supposition on the part of traveled people. The temperature is simply +perfect, if we are to believe our informant; the vegetation is of a +primitive delicacy and beauty unequaled elsewhere; the fruits are +fabulously abundant and of the most perfect flavor; the water bubbles +forth from springs of crystal purity, and the flora is so lovely as to +inspire the most indifferent beholder with delight. "It is called the +Garden of Cuba," said the American Consul of Cienfuegos, "but many go +further, and declare it to be the location of the original Paradise." +Certain it is that the few Americans who have sought this so highly +praised region, though compelled to deny themselves the ordinary +comforts to be found in more accessible resorts, have admitted with +emphasis that nature, pure and undefiled, was here to be enjoyed in +unstinted measure.</p> + +<p>The hills bordering the shore and extending some distance inland +contain much undeveloped mineral wealth, such as iron, silver, and +gold. A mine of the former product is now being profitably worked by +an American company, and the ore regularly shipped to Pennsylvania for +smelting. This ore has special properties which render it more than +usually valuable, and it is even claimed to be the best iron mine in +the world. There is a strangely solitary and inhospitable appearance +about this portion of the island, devoid as it is of all human +habitations, and fringed either with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>long reaches of lonely +snow-white beach or rugged brown rocks. The volcanic appearance of the +land is significant of former upheavals, and this immediate region is +still occasionally troubled with geological chills and fever.</p> + +<p>The nights of early March in this latitude were exceedingly beautiful, +and solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. The full +moon looked down upon and was reflected by waters of perfect +smoothness. River navigation could not have been more quiet than were +these nights on the blue Caribbean Sea. The air was as mild as June in +New England, while at night the Southern Cross and the North Star +blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we steered westward after +doubling the cape, both of these heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, +the constellation on our port side, and the North Star on the +starboard. Each day, at the noon hour, the passengers were interested +in watching the officers of the ship while they were "taking the sun," +to determine the latitude and longitude. Shall we put the process into +simple form for the information of the uninitiated? When the sun +reaches the meridian, or culminating point of ascension, the exact +moment is indicated by the instrument known as a quadrant, adjusted to +the eye of the observer. The figures marked on the quadrant give the +latitude of the ship at the moment of meridian. The ship's time is +then made to correspond, that is to say, it must indicate 12 o'clock, +M., after which it is compared with the chronometer's Greenwich time, +and the difference enables the observer to determine the longitude. As +fifteen miles are allowed to the minute, there will be nine hundred +miles to the hour. The importance of absolute correctness +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +in the chronometer will at once be realized, since, were it only three +minutes out of the way, it would render the calculation as to +longitude wrong by nearly fifty miles, which might be, and doubtless +often has been, the cause of wrecking a ship upon rocks laid down upon +the charts, but supposed to be far away. With the chronometer and the +quadrant observation correctly ascertained, the sailing-master can +prick off his exact situation on the chart. So long as the weather +will permit a clear view of the sun at noon, the ship's precise +location on the wide waste of waters can be known; but when continuous +cloudy weather prevails, the ship's course is calculated by what is +called dead reckoning, depending upon the speed and distance run as +indicated by the log, which is cast hourly under such circumstances, +and becomes the main factor in calculating the position of the ship. +Of course the result cannot be very accurate, but is a dernier +ressort. When land is in sight no observation is necessary, as the +bearing of the ship is then unmistakably defined.</p> + +<p>The sea was like molten sapphire as we glided swiftly along the +southern coast of Cuba, watching the gracefully undulating shore. The +mountains rose higher and higher, until they culminated in the lofty +peak of Pico Turquino (blue mountain), over ten thousand feet high, as +lately ascertained by actual measurement. There are coves and bays +along this coast where oysters <i>do</i> grow upon trees, ridiculous as the +assertion first strikes the ear. The mangrove-trees extend their roots +from the shore into the sea, to which the oysters affix themselves, +growing and thriving until plucked by the fishermen. They are small +and of an inferior species compared with those <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>of our own coast, but +are freely eaten in the island. Near the shore hereabouts are many +islets containing from three to five square miles, some of which are +quite barren, while others are delicious gardens, full of tropical +fruit trees, flowers, and odoriferous plants, where Paul and Virginia +might have felt quite at home, wandering hand in hand.</p> + +<p>Soon after passing the remarkably sheltered port of Guantanamo, which +was for nearly a century the most notorious piratical rendezvous in +the West Indies, the famous castle of Santiago is seen. It is known as +Moro Castle, but it antedates the more familiar Moro of Havana by a +full century. This antique, yellow, Moorish-looking stronghold—which +modern gunnery would destroy in about eight minutes—is picturesque to +the last degree, with its crumbling, honeycombed battlements, and +queer little flanking turrets, grated windows, and shadowy towers. It +is built upon the face of a lofty dun-colored rock, upon whose +precipitous side the fortification is terraced. It stands just at the +entrance of the narrow channel leading to the city, so that in passing +in one can easily exchange oral greetings with the sentry on the outer +battlement. What strikingly artistic pictures the light and shade +together formed with those time-stained walls, as we steamed slowly by +them! On the ocean side, directly under the castle, the sea has worn a +gaping cave, so deep that it has not been explored within the memory +of the people living in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty entrance +is in form as perfect an arch as could be drawn by the pencil of a +skillful architect. As is usual with such formations all over the +world, there is a romantic legend concerning the cave related as +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +connected with the olden time, and there is also a prevailing +superstition, that no one attempting to explore it will live to +return.</p> + +<p>In passing up the channel two or three little forts of queer +construction are seen, supplementing the larger one, placed upon +jutting headlands. The Moro of Santiago is now used as a prison for +political offenders; its days of defensive importance ended with the +period of the buccaneers, against whose crude means of warfare it was +an ample protection. As we steamed past it that sunny afternoon, +stimulated by the novelty of everything about us, a crowd of pallid, +sorrowful faces appeared at the grated windows, watching us +listlessly. Two days later five of them, who were condemned patriots, +were led out upon those ramparts and shot, their bodies falling into +the sea, and eight were sent to the penal settlement of Ceuta. Spain +extends no mercy to those who dare to raise their hands or voices in +favor of freedom; her political existence is sustained only in an +atmosphere of oppression and cruelty. Every page of her history is a +tableau of bloodshed and torture. The narrow winding channel which +leads from the open sea to the harbor passes through low hills and +broad meadows covered with rank verdure, cocoanut groves, and little +fishing hamlets. Thrifty laurels, palms with their graceful plumes of +foliage, and intensely green bananas line the way, with here and there +upon the banks a pleasant country house in the midst of a pretty +garden of flowering shrubs. So close is the shore all the while that +one seems to be navigating upon the land, gliding among trees and over +greensward rather than on blue water. Presently we pass a sharp angle +of the hills into a broad, sheltered bay, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>and before us lies the +quaint, rambling old city of Santiago de Cuba, built upon a hillside, +like Tangier in Africa, and nearly as Oriental as that capital of +Morocco. The first most conspicuous objects to meet the eye are the +twin towers of the ancient cathedral which have withstood so many +earthquakes. The weather-beaten old quartermaster on our forecastle +applies the match to his brass twelve-pounder, awaking a whole +broadside of echoes among the mountains, the big chain rushes swiftly +through the hawse-hole, and the ship swings at her anchor in the +middle of the picturesque bay.</p> + +<p>A boat was promptly secured with which to land at this ancient city, +founded by Velasquez. From the moment one touches the shore a sense of +being in a foreign land forces itself upon the new-comer. The +half-unintelligible language, the people, the architecture, the +manners, the vegetation, even the very atmosphere and the intensity of +the sunshine, are novel and attractive. It is easy to convey our +partial impressions of a new place, however unique it may be, but not +our inward sensations. The former are tangible, as it were, and may be +depicted; the latter are like atmospheric air, which cannot be seen, +but is felt. The many-colored, one-story houses of Santiago are +Moorish in architecture, ranged in narrow streets, which cross each +other at right angles with considerable regularity, but with roadways +in an almost impassable condition, lined with sidewalks of ten or +fifteen inches in width. These thoroughfares were once paved with +cobblestones, but are now characterized by dirt and neglect, a stream +of offensive water constantly percolating through them, in which +little naked children are at play. No wonder that the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>city is +annually decimated by yellow fever; the surprise is that it does not +prevail there every month in the year. The boys and girls of the lower +classes, white and black, are not thought to require clothing until +they are about nine years of age. A few negresses were observed +sitting on the ground, at the corners of the streets, beside their +baskets containing sweet cakes, mouldy biscuits, bananas, and +grape-fruit, the uninviting appearance of which seemed to indicate +that they were in the last stage of collapse. Was it possible any one +could eat such stuff? As we passed and repassed these patient waiters, +certainly no purchasers appeared. How the forty-five thousand +inhabitants manage to achieve a living it would be difficult to +imagine, for the town seemed to be as dead and void of all activity as +Cordova, in far-off Spain, the sleepiest city in all Europe. Santiago +has not a single bookstore within its limits. No other place in +Christendom, with so numerous a population, could exist, outside of +Spain, without some literary resort. There are here three or four +spacious two-story club-houses, with some pretension to neatness and +social accommodations; but then no Cuban town of any size would be +complete without these anti-domestic institutions, where the male +population may congregate for evening entertainment. The interior +arrangements of these club-houses were entirely exposed to view, as we +passed by the iron-grated windows, devoid of curtains, blinds, or +screens of any sort, and extending from ceiling to floor.</p> + +<p>Santiago dates back to the year of our Lord 1514, making it the oldest +city in the New World, next to San Domingo, and it will be remembered +as the place whence Cortez sailed, in 1519, to invade Mexico. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +Here also has been the seat of modern rebellion against the arbitrary and +bitterly oppressive rule of the home government. The city is situated +six hundred miles southeast of Havana, and, after Matanzas, comes next +to it in commercial importance, its exports reaching the handsome +annual aggregate of eight millions of dollars. It is the terminus of +two lines of railways, which pass through the sugar districts, and +afford transportation for this great staple. Three leagues inland, +among the mountains, are situated the famous Cobre copper mines, said +to be of superior richness, and whence, in the days of their active +working, four million dollars' worth of the ore has been exported in +one year. This was the amount shipped in 1841, and so late as 1867 six +thousand tons were exported in ten months. Not content with realizing +a very large income from the mines by way of taxes upon the product, +the Spanish government increased these excise charges to such an +extent as to absorb the entire profits of the works and kill the +enterprise, so that the rich ores of Cobre now rest undisturbed in the +earth. It seems there is an Indian village near the copper mines, +whose people are represented to be the only living descendants of the +aborigines,—the Caribs whom Columbus found here on first landing. +Careful inquiry, however, led us seriously to doubt the authenticity +of the story. Probably this people are peculiar in their language, and +isolation may have caused them to differ in some respects from the +inhabitants of the valley and plains, but four centuries must have +destroyed every trace of the early inhabitants of Cuba. Having been +from the very outset enslaved and brutally treated by the Spaniards, +it is believed that as early as the year of our Lord 1700 they had +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +utterly disappeared, and some historians say no trace even was to be +found of the native race one century after the settlement of the +island by Europeans.</p> + +<p>The head of the Church of Rome in Cuba is located here, it being an +archbishop's see; and the elaborate ceremonials which occasionally +take place attract people from the most distant cities of the island. +We chanced to be present when the bishop was passing into the +cathedral, clothed in full canonicals and accompanied by church +dignitaries bearing a canopy above his head. Observing our little +party as strangers, though in the midst of a stately ceremony, the +bishop graciously made us a sign of recognition. The cathedral of +Santiago is the largest in Cuba, but extremely simple in its interior +arrangements; and so, indeed, are all the churches on the island. As +to the exterior, the façade resembles the cathedral of Havana, being +of the same porous stone, which always presents a crumbled and mottled +surface. The inside decorations are childish and fanciful, consisting +mostly of artificial flowers of colored paper, crudely formed by +inexperienced hands into stars, wreaths, and crosses. One innovation +was noticed in this church: a saint on the right of the altar was +mounted upon a wooden horse, with spear in rest à la militaire, +forming a most incongruous figure. In the church of Matanzas, visited +a week or two later, the effigy of our Saviour was observed to be half +dressed in female attire, a glaring absurdity which the author has +once before seen in the Spanish convent-church of Burgos. In the +Matanzas church alluded to, boys and girls of nine and ten years were +seen at the confessional. Could absurdity be carried to a greater +height? These with negro women form nearly all the audiences to be met +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +with in the Cuban churches, unless upon festal occasions. The men +manifest their indifference by their absence, and white women are +scarcely represented. Besides the cathedral, Santiago has three or +four other old churches, small and dilapidated, within whose sombre +walls one seems to have stepped back into the fifteenth century. Upon +strolling accidentally into one of these we felt a chill suffuse the +whole system, like that realized on descending into a dark, undrained +cellar.</p> + +<p>The multiplicity and gaudiness of the drinking-saloons and bar-rooms +were particularly noticeable in passing along the principal streets, +and all were doing a thriving business, judging from appearances. The +Cubans drink lightly, but they drink often, and are especially +addicted to gin, which is dealt out to them at an extraordinarily low +price. It appears that people can consume a much larger quantity of +spirituous liquors here without becoming intoxicated than they can do +at the North. It is very rare to see a person overcome by this +indulgence in Cuba, and yet, as was afterwards observed in Cienfuegos, +Matanzas, and Havana, the common people begin the day with a very +liberal dram, and follow it up with frequent libations until +bed-time,—tippling at every convenient opportunity. A few of the +better class of private houses were constructed with courts in the +centre, where flowers and tropical fruits were growing luxuriantly. +These dwellings were confined to no special quarter of the town, but +were as often found next to a commercial warehouse or a negro shanty +as elsewhere. The dogs, horses, and Chinese coolies were all in +wretched condition. One might count the ribs of the first two a long +way off, while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>the latter were ragged, lame, half-starved, and many +of them blind. Animals are the recipients of the severest sort of +usage both in Cuba and Spain. Few vehicles were to be seen, as +merchandise is mostly transported on the backs of mules and ponies, +and these animals are seldom shod.</p> + +<p>The town is lighted with gas, or rather it was so illuminated a few +weeks since; but it was quietly whispered about that the corporation +had failed to pay for this service last year, and that the monopoly +itself was on the verge of bankruptcy, like nearly everything else of +a business character in Cuba. The gaslights certainly appeared pale +and sickly enough, as though only half confirmed in the purpose of +giving any light at all, and were prematurely extinguished in many of +the streets. In the shops, whose fronts were all open, like those of +Canton and Yokohama, the clerks were to be seen in their shirt +sleeves, guiltless of vests or collars, coquetting over calicoes and +gaudy-colored merinos with mulatto girls decked in cheap jewelry, and +with negresses wearing enormous hoop-earrings. At the approach of +evening the bar-rooms and saloons, with a liberal display of +looking-glasses, bottles of colored liquors, gin, and glitter, were +dazzling to behold. The marble tables were crowded with domino and +card players, each sipping at intervals his favorite tipple. The +sidewalks are so narrow that the pedestrian naturally seeks the middle +of the street as a pathway, and the half a dozen victorias and four +volantes which form the means of transportation in Santiago, and which +are constantly wandering about in search of a job, manage to meet or +to overtake one perpetually; causing first a right oblique, then a +left oblique, movement, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>with such regularity as to amount to an +endless zig-zag. We did not exactly appreciate the humor of this +annoyance, but perhaps the drivers did. After climbing and descending +these narrow, dirty streets by daylight and by gaslight, and watching +the local characteristics for a few hours, one is only too happy to +take a boat back to the ship, and leave all behind.</p> + +<p>A desire for a cold bath and a good swim is natural in this climate +after sunset, but beware of indulging this inclination in the waters +of Santiago. Under that smooth, inviting surface, glistening beneath +the rays of a full moon, lurk myriads of sharks. They are large, +hungry, man-eating creatures, the tigers of the ocean, and the dread +of all local boatmen here. To fall overboard in these waters, however +good a swimmer one may be, is simply to be devoured. At Singapore, +Sumatra, or Batavia, a Malay will for a consideration dive into the +waters of the Malacca Straits, armed with a long, sharp knife, boldly +attack a shark, and rip open his bowels at the moment when he turns on +his side to give the deadly bite. But on that coast this dreaded fish +appears singly; it is rare to see two of them together; while Santiago +harbor seems to swarm with them, the dark dorsal fin of the +threatening creatures just parting the surface of the sea, and +betraying their presence. Lying at anchor between our ship and the +shore was a trig Spanish corvette,—an American-built vessel, by the +way, though belonging to the navy of Spain. It was curious at times to +watch her crew being drilled in various martial manœuvres. While an +officer was exercising the men at furling topsails, a few days before +our arrival, a foretopman fell from aloft into <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>the sea. Under +ordinary circumstances and in most waters, the man could easily have +been saved, but not so in this instance. He did not even rise to the +surface. A struggle for portions of his body between half a dozen +ravenous sharks was observed alongside the corvette, and all was +quickly over. The foretopman had been torn limb from limb and +instantly devoured.</p> + +<p>The over-stimulated brain felt no inclination for sleep on this first +night in the harbor, the situation was so novel, and the night itself +one to suggest poetic thoughts. The moon was creeping slowly across +the blue vault, like a great phantom mingling with the lambent purity +of the stars. We sat silently watching the heavens, the water, and the +shore; saw the lights go out one after another among the clustering +dwellings, and the street gas-burners shut off here and there, until +by and by the drowsy town was wrapped in almost perfect darkness. Only +the ripple of the sea alongside the ship broke the silence, or the +sudden splash of some large fish, leaping out of and falling back into +the water. It seemed as though no sky was ever before of such +marvelous blue depth, no water so full of mystery, no shore so clad in +magic verdure, and no night ever of such resplendent clearness. The +landing-steps and grating had been rigged out from a broad porthole on +the spar deck, where a quartermaster was awaiting the return of the +purser and a party of gentlemen who were making late, or rather early, +hours on shore; for it was nearly two o'clock in the morning, and the +weary seaman, who had sat down at his post on the grating, was snoring +like a wheezy trombone. The measured tread fore and aft of the second +officer, who kept the anchor <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>watch, was the only evidence of +wakefulness that disturbed our lonely mood. A similar night scene was +vividly called to mind as experienced in Typhoon Bay, below Hong Kong, +a few years since.</p> + +<p>In the harbor, next morning, a sunken wreck was pointed out to us, +which was partially visible at low tide, not far from the shore. Only +the ribs and stanchions are still held together by the stout keel +timbers and lower sheathing. This wreck has lain there unheeded for +years, yet what a story these old timbers might tell, had they only a +tongue with which to give voice to their experience!—literally the +experience of ages. We refer to the remains of the old St. Paul, one +of the ships of the great Spanish Armada that Philip II. sent to +England in 1588, being one of the very few of that famous flotilla +that escaped destruction at the time. What a historical memento is the +old wreck! After a checkered career, in which this ancient craft had +breasted the waves of innumerable seas and withstood the storms of +nearly three centuries, she was burned to the water's edge here in the +harbor of Santiago a few years since, and sunk, where her remains now +lie, covered with slime and barnacles,—a striking emblem of the +nation whose flag she once proudly bore. During the last years of her +career afloat she was used for transporting troops from Europe, and as +a Spanish guard-ship in these seas by the local government. It is +doubtful if it is generally known that this relic of the Spanish +Armada is in existence. Curio-hunters, once put upon the scent, will +probably soon reduce these ancient timbers to chips, and a crop of +canes and snuff-boxes, more or less hideous and more or less +counterfeit, will ensue.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +Here we got our first experience of the present currency,—the +valueless circulating medium of Cuba. When one has occasion to visit +the island it is best to take American funds, either in bank-bills or +gold, sufficient to meet all ordinary expenses. Our bank-bills and our +gold are both at a premium. This will also save all necessity for +drawing on home through any local bankers, who have a way of charging +for the accommodation quite after the style of everything Spanish. The +hotel-keepers will require their pay on the basis of Spanish gold, but +will cheerfully allow a premium of six per cent. on American gold or +American bank-bills. As to the banks in Cuba, all are shaky, so to +speak; several have lately failed, and the others might as well do so. +It is not long since the president of the Havana Savings Bank placed a +pistol at his temple and blew his brains out. Mercantile credit may be +said to be dead, and business nearly at a standstill. Commercial +honesty is hardly to be expected from a bankrupt community, where the +people seem only to be engaged in the sale and purchase of lottery +tickets, a habit participated in by all classes.</p> + +<p>What little gold and silver coin there is found in circulation is +mutilated; every piece of money, large and small, has been subjected +to the ingenious punch, and thus has lost a portion of its intrinsic +value. American gold and silver, not having been thus clipped, justly +commands a six per cent. premium.</p> + +<p>The circulating medium upon the island is paper scrip, precisely +similar to that used in this country before the resumption of specie +payment. This scrip is dirty beyond endurance, and one absolutely +hesitates to take it in making change.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +When our currency became soiled and torn we could exchange it for new, +but there is no such facility in Cuba. One dollar of our money will +purchase $2.45 of this scrip. It passes current, and really seems to +answer the necessities of trade, but even the Cubans are not deceived +by it. They know that it is really worthless, being based upon +nothing, and issued indiscriminately by a bankrupt government. The +paper-mill grinds it out in five, ten, twenty, and fifty cent pieces +as fast as it can be put into circulation, while no one knows how much +has been issued. But one thing is known; namely, that every authorized +issue of a given sum has been enormously exceeded in amount.</p> + +<p>Within about five years, or less, an issue of bank-bills and of this +small currency was entrusted to an establishment in the United States, +when fourteen millions of dollars were printed in <i>addition</i> to the +amount authorized! All were duly receipted for and signed by corrupt +Spanish officials, who coolly divided these millions among themselves! +The Captain-General of Cuba during whose administration this financial +stroke was accomplished came to the island a poor man, and returned to +Spain in two years possessed of three million dollars!</p> + +<p>There is no more beautiful or safe harbor in the world than that of +Santiago de Cuba, commercially speaking, as it is completely +land-locked and protected on all sides from storms; but for the same +reason it is as close and hot an anchorage as can be found in the +tropics. An intelligent resident gave us 80° Fahrenheit as the average +temperature of the year, though the thermometer showed a more +ambitious figure during our brief stay. There are but two seasons, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +the wet and the dry, the latter extending from September to May. The +city might have an excellent water supply if there were sufficient +enterprise among the citizens to cause it to be conducted by pipes +from the springs in the neighboring hills. It is now wretchedly +deficient in this respect, causing both suffering and ill health in a +climate especially demanding this prime necessity of life.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Doubling Cape Cruz. — Trinidad. — Cienfuegos. — The Plaza. +— Beggars. — Visit to a Sugar Plantation. — Something +about Sugar. — An Original Character. — A Tropical Fruit +Garden. — Cuban Hospitality. — The Banana. — Lottery +Tickets. — Chinese Coolies. — Blindness in Cuba. — Birds +and Poultry. — The Cock-Pit. — Negro Slavery, To-Day. — +Spanish Slaveholders. — A Slave Mutiny. — A Pleasant +Journey across the Island. — Pictures of the Interior. — +Scenery about Matanzas. — The Tropics and the North contrasted. +</div> + + +<p>To reach Cienfuegos, our next objective point, one takes water +conveyance, the common roads in this district being, if possible, a +degree worse than elsewhere. It is therefore necessary to double Cape +Cruz, and perform a coasting voyage along the southern shore of the +island of about four hundred miles. This is really delightful sailing +in any but the hurricane months; that is, between the middle of August +and the middle of October. It would seem that this should be quite a +commercial thoroughfare, but it is surprising how seldom a +sailing-vessel is seen on the voyage, and it is still more rare to +meet a steamship. Our passage along the coast was delightful: the +undulating hills, vales, and plains seemed to be quietly gliding past +us of their own volition; the tremor of the ship did not suggest +motion of the hull, but a sense of delight at the moving panorama so +clearly depicted. No extensive range of waters in either hemisphere is +so proverbially smooth as the Caribbean Sea, during eight months of +the year, but a stout hull and good seamanship are demanded during the +remaining four, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>especially if coming from the northward over the +Bahama Banks and through the Windward Passage, as described in these +chapters.</p> + +<p>The city of Trinidad, perched upon a hillside, is passed at the +distance of a few miles, being pleasantly situated more than a league +from the coast. The town of Casilda is its commercial port. This +arrangement was adopted in the early days as a partial protection +against the frequent inroads of the buccaneers, who ceased to be +formidable when separated from their ships. Trinidad was once the +centre of the prosperous coffee trade of Cuba, but is now, and has +been for many years, commercially wrecked. It is very beautifully +located, with Mount Vijia for its background, in what is declared to +be the healthiest district upon the island. But it is an ancient city, +comparatively deserted, its date being nearly contemporary with that +of Santiago. Cienfuegos, its successful business rival, is on the +contrary quite modern, exhibiting many features of thrift and +activity, and is counted the third commercial city of Cuba. Like +Cardenas, it is called an American capital. It has some twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, a large proportion of whom speak English, nine +tenths of its commerce being with the United States. In this immediate +neighborhood Columbus, on his second voyage, saw with astonishment the +mysterious king who spoke to his subjects only by signs, and that +group of men who wore long white tunics like the monks of mercy, while +the rest of the people were entirely naked. The town is low and level, +occupying a broad plane. The streets are of fair width, crossing each +other at right angles, and are kept neat and clean. The harbor is an +excellent and spacious one, admitting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> of vessels being moored at the +wharves, a commercial convenience unknown at Santiago, Matanzas, or +Havana. The navies of all the world might rendezvous here and not +crowd each other. Three rivers, the Canudo, Saludo, and Danuyi, empty +into the bay, and each is navigable for a considerable distance +inland, a matter of great importance in a country so devoid of good +roads. The parti-colored houses are of the usual Cuban type, mostly of +one story, built with a patio or open courtyard in the centre, well +filled with flowering plants, among which were observed the attractive +coral-tree, which resembles a baby palm, and the universal banana.</p> + +<p>The Plaza of Cienfuegos forms a large, well-arranged square, where an +out-door military concert is given twice a week, a universal practice +in all Cuban cities. It is laid out with excellent taste, its broad +paths nicely paved, and the whole lighted at night with numerous +ornamental gas-lamps. The vegetation is both attractive and +characteristic, consisting of palms, laurels, and flowering shrubs, +mingled with which are some exotics from the North, which droop with a +homesick aspect. Plants, like human beings, will pine for their native +atmosphere. If it be more rigorous and less genial at the North, still +there is a bracing, tonic effect, imparting life and strength, which +is wanting in the low latitudes. On one side of this fine square is +the government house and barracks, opposite to which is an open-air +theatre, and in front is the cathedral with any number of discordant +bells. The little English sparrow seems to be ubiquitous, and as +pugnacious here as on Boston Common, or the Central Park of New York. +Boyish games are very similar the world over: young Cuba was playing +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +marbles after the orthodox fashion, knuckle-down. It was very pitiful +to behold the army of beggars in so small a city, but begging is +synonymous with the Spanish name, both in her European and colonial +possessions. Here the maimed, halt, and blind meet one at every turn. +Saturday is the harvest day for beggars in the Cuban cities, on which +occasion they go about by scores from door to door, carrying a large +canvas bag. Each family and shop is supplied with a quantity of small +rolls of bread, specially baked for the purpose, and one of which is +nearly always given to the applicant on that day, so the mendicant's +bag becomes full of rolls. These, mixed with vegetables, bits of fish, +and sometimes meat and bones when they can be procured, are boiled +into a soup, thus keeping soul and body together in the poor creatures +during the week.</p> + +<p>Cienfuegos is situated in the midst of a sugar-producing district, +where soil and climate are both favorable, and over twenty large +plantations are to be seen within a radius of two or three leagues. +The export from them, as we were informed by the courteous editor of +"La Opinion," a local paper, aggregates thirty thousand hogsheads +annually. The visitor should not fail to make an excursion to some +representative plantation, where it is impossible not to be much +interested and practically informed. One of these sugar estates, +situated less than two leagues from the town, was found to be +furnished with a complete outfit of the most modern machinery, which +had cost the proprietor a quarter of a million dollars. It was working +with the usual favorable results, though at the present price of sugar +no profit can accrue to the planter. The plantation presented a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> busy +scene. During the grinding season the machinery is run night and day, +but is obliged to lie idle for eight months out of the year.</p> + +<p>In the uncultivated fields through which we passed when driving out to +the sugar estate, the prickly pear grew close to the ground in great +luxuriance, as it is seen on our Western prairies. Its thick leaves, +so green as to be dense with color, impart the effect of greensward at +a short distance. On close inspection it was seen to be the star +cactus, which like the Northern thistle kills all other vegetation +within its reach. Here and there the wild ipecacuanha with its bright +red blossom was observed, but the fields, except those devoted to the +cane, were very barren near Cienfuegos.</p> + +<p>Sugar-cane is cultivated like Indian corn, which it also resembles in +appearance. It is first planted in rows, not in hills, and must be +hoed and weeded until it gets high enough to shade its roots. Then it +may be left to itself until it reaches maturity. This refers to the +first laying out of a plantation, which will afterwards continue +fruitful for years by very simple processes of renewal. When +thoroughly ripe the cane is of a light golden yellow, streaked here +and there with red. The top is dark green, with long narrow leaves +depending,—very much like those of the corn stalk,—from the centre +of which shoots upwards a silvery stem a couple of feet in height, and +from its tip grows a white fringed plume, of a delicate lilac hue. The +effect of a large field at its maturity, lying under a torrid sun and +gently yielding to the breeze, is very fine, a picture to live in the +memory ever after. In the competition between the products of +beet-root sugar and that from sugar-cane,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> the former controls the +market, because it can be produced at a cheaper rate, besides which +its production is stimulated by nearly all of the European states +through the means of liberal subsidies both to the farmer and to the +manufacturer. Beet sugar, however, does not possess so high a +percentage of true saccharine matter as does the product of the cane, +the latter seeming to be nature's most direct mode of supplying us +with the article. The Cuban planters have one advantage over all other +sugar-cane producing countries, in the great and inexhaustible +fertility of the soil of the island. For instance: one to two +hogsheads of sugar to the acre is considered a good yield in Jamaica, +but in Cuba three hogsheads is the average. Fertilizing of any sort is +rarely employed in the cane-fields, while in beet farming it is the +principal agent of success.</p> + +<p>Though the modern machinery, as lately adopted on the plantations, is +very expensive, still the result achieved by it is so much superior to +that of the old methods of manufacture that the small planters are +being driven from the market. Slave labor cannot compete with +machinery. The low price of sugar renders economy imperative in all +branches of the business, in order to leave a margin for profit. A +planter informed the author that he should spread all of his molasses +upon the cane-fields this year as a fertilizer, rather than send it to +a distant market and receive only what it cost. He further said that +thousands of acres of sugar-cane would be allowed to rot in the fields +this season, as it would cost more to cut, grind, pack, and send it to +market than could be realized for the manufactured article. Had the +price of sugar remained this year at a figure which would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> afford the +planters a fair profit, it might have been the means of tiding over +the chasm of bankruptcy which has long stared them in the face, and +upon the brink of which they now stand. But with a more than average +crop, both as to quantity and quality, whether to gather it or not is +a problem. Under these circumstances it is difficult to say what is to +become, financially, of the people of Cuba. Sugar is their great +staple, but all business has been equally depressed upon the island, +under the bane of civil wars, extortionate taxation, and oppressive +rule.</p> + +<p>If you visit Cienfuegos you will take rooms at the Hotel Union, as +being the least objectionable of the two public houses which the city +contains, and there you will make the acquaintance of Jane, who is an +institution in herself. Indeed, she will doubtless board your ship +when it first arrives, so as to enlighten you concerning the +excellences of the Union over its rival establishment, which will also +be sure to be represented. Jane is interpreter and general factotum of +that delectable posada, the Union, and being the only one in the house +who speaks either French or English, she becomes an important factor +in your calculations. Jane's nationality is a pleasing mystery, but +she may be classed as a Portuguese quadroon. Venus did not preside at +her birth, but, by means of the puff-ball and egg-shell powder, she +strives to harmonize her mottled features. Being interpreter, +waitress, hotel-runner, and chambermaid, she is no idler, and fully +earns the quarter eagle you naturally hand her at leave-taking. In +visiting the neighboring sugar plantation Jane acts as your guide, on +which occasion her independence will be sure to challenge admiration. +She salutes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> slave or master with equal familiarity, conducts you +through each process of the elaborate works, from the engine to the +crushing mill, and so on, until you reach the centrifugal machine, +where the glistening crystals of pure sugar fall into an open +receptacle ready for packing and shipment. She takes you into the +slave-quarters among the pickaninnies, hens, pigs, and pigeons, +looking on blandly and chewing huge pieces of cane while you +distribute the bright ten cent pieces with which you filled your +pocket at starting. If Jane slyly pinches a papoose and causes it to +yell, it is only for fun; she means no harm, though the dusky mite +gets smartly slapped by its mother for misbehaving. The cabin floor of +bare earth is sure to be covered with these little naked, sprawling +objects, like ants. On the way back to town Jane orders the postilion +to drive into the private grounds of a palatial Cuban residence, where +she boldly announces herself and party to the proprietor in good +rolling Spanish. It is the home of Señor N——, a wealthy merchant of +the city. We are received as though we belonged to the royal family. +The hospitable owner speaks English fluently, and answers our thousand +and one questions with tireless courtesy, takes us into his superb +fruit garden (of which more anon), then introduces us to his domestic +quarters, where everything appears refined, faultlessly neat, and +tasteful. If you go to the railroad station, as usual the evening +before departure, in order to secure tickets and get your baggage +labeled,—for the cars start in the morning before daylight,—Jane +will accompany you, riding by your side in the victoria. Excuse her if +she orders the calash thrown back, as she appears bonnetless in a +loud, theatrical costume,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> trimmed with red and yellow, and carrying a +bouquet in her freckled hands. It is her opportunity, and she looks +triumphantly at the street loungers in passing. If you are charged on +your bill a Delmonico price for a mythical lunch to be taken with you +on the journey to Matanzas, and which Jane has forgotten to put up, +pay without wrangling; it saves time and temper.</p> + +<p>The tropical garden which we visited just outside of Cienfuegos +embraced a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty +exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending to +the ground with the weight of its ripening fruit; the alligator pear +was marvelously beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and +color, the passion-flower; the soft delicate foliage of the tamarind +was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, +the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree) +being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time +by a single, pendent, glutinous bud nearly as large as a pineapple. +The date-palm, so suggestive of the far East, and the only one we had +seen in Cuba, was represented by a choice specimen, imported in its +youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform +and graceful shape, full of the green fruit, with here and there a +ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rusty-coated +fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad-spreading trees +depended the grape-fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as +gold, while the orange, lime, and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green +and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every turn, and filled the +garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> its tall, straight +stem and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. Guava, fig, +custard-apple, and bread-fruit trees, all were in bearing. Our +hospitable host plucked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his +chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or +elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, +of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had +turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Gan Eden. Through this +orchard of Hesperides we were accompanied also by the proprietor's two +lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise +in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory +with photographic fidelity.</p> + +<p>Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once +more to examine his beautiful specimens of the banana, which, with its +sister fruit the plantain, forms so important a staple of food in Cuba +and throughout all tropical regions. It seems that the female banana +tree bears more fruit than the male, but not so large. The average +clusters of the former comprise here about one hundred, but the latter +rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct specimens of the +cucumber-shaped product. From the centre of its large broad leaves, +which gather at the top, when it has reached the height of twelve or +fifteen feet there springs forth a large purple bud ten inches long, +shaped like a huge acorn, though more pointed. This cone hangs +suspended from a strong stem, upon which a leaf unfolds, displaying a +cluster of young fruit. As soon as these are large enough to support +the heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf +drops off, and another unfolds, exposing its little brood of fruit; +and so the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> process goes on until six or eight rings of young bananas +are started, forming, as we have said, bunches numbering from seventy +to a hundred. The banana is a herbaceous plant, and after fruiting its +top dies; but it annually sprouts up again fresh from the roots. From +the unripe fruit, dried in the sun, a palatable and nutritious flour +is made.</p> + +<p>No matter where one may be, in town or country, in the east or west +end of the island, Santiago or Havana, the lottery-ticket vender is +there. Men, women, and children are employed to peddle the tickets, +cripples especially being pressed into the service in the hope of +exciting the sympathies of strangers and thus creating purchasers. It +may be said to be about the only prosperous business at present going +on in this thoroughly demoralized island. Half the people seem to +think of nothing else, and talk of dreaming that such and such +combinations of numbers will bring good luck. Some will buy only even +numbers, others believe that the odd ones stand the best chance of +winning; in short, all the gambling fancies are brought to bear upon +these lotteries. Enough small prizes are doled out to the purchasers +of tickets, by the cunning management, to keep hope and expectation +ever alive in their hearts, and to coax out of them their last dollar +in further investments. "If," said a native resident of Matanzas to +us, "these lotteries, all of which are presided over by the officials, +are honestly conducted, they are the one honest thing in which this +government is concerned. Venal in everything else, why should they be +conscientious in this gambling game?" No one believes in the integrity +of the government, but, strange to say, the masses have implicit faith +in the lotteries.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>At one corner of our hotel in Cienfuegos, there sat upon the sidewalk +of the street a blind beggar, a Chinese coolie, whose miserable, +poverty-stricken appearance elicited a daily trifle from the habitués +of the house. Early one morning we discovered this representative of +want and misery purchasing a lottery ticket. They are so divided and +subdivided, it appears, as to come even within the means of the street +beggars! Speaking of blindness, the multiplicity of people thus +afflicted, especially among negroes and coolies, led to the +enumeration of those met with in a single day; the result was +seventeen. On inquiry it was found that inflammation of the eyes is as +common here as in Egypt, and that it runs a rapid and fatal +course,—fatal to the sight after having once attacked a victim, +unless it receives prompt, judicious, and scientific treatment.</p> + +<p>The Chinese coolies, who are encountered in all parts of the island, +but more especially in the cities, are almost invariably decrepit, +poverty-stricken mendicants, and very frequently blind. They are such +as have been through their eight years' contract, and have been +brought to their present condition by ill-treatment, insufficient +food, and the troubles incident to the climate. In the majority of +cases these coolies have been cheated out of the trifling amount of +wages promised to them, for there is no law in Cuba to which they can +appeal. There are laws which will afford the negro justice if resorted +to under certain circumstances, but none for the coolies. There are +some few Chinamen who have survived every exigency, and are now +engaged in keeping small stores or fruit stands, cigar making, and +other light employments, their only hope being to gain money<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> enough +to carry them back to their native land, and to have a few dollars +left to support them after getting there. There are no Chinese +laundries in Cuba; John cannot compete with the black women in this +occupation, for they are natural washers and ironers. John is only a +skillful imitator. He proves most successful in the cigarette and +cigar factories, where his deft fingers can turn out a more uniform +and handsome article than the Cubans themselves. Machinery is fast +doing away with hand-made cigarettes. At the famous establishment of +La Honradez, in Havana, which we visited some weeks later, one machine +was seen in operation which produced ten thousand complete cigarettes +each hour, or a million per day! Still this same establishment +employed some fifty Chinese in order to supply its trade with the +hand-made article, for home consumption. The Cubans prefer to unroll +and readjust a cigarette before lighting it. This cannot be done with +the machine-made article, which completes its product by a pasting +process. The three machines (an American patent) at the Honradez +factory turn out three millions of cigarettes per day, and this is in +addition to those which are hand-made by the Chinese.</p> + +<p>The landlord of the Hotel Union, at Cienfuegos, will give you plenty +of fruit and cheap Cataline wine, but the meat which is served is poor +and consists mostly of birds. Any other which may be set before you +will hardly be found to be a success, but then one does not crave much +substantial food in this climate. There is a small wild pigeon which +forms a considerable source of food in Cuba, and which breeds several +times in a year. They are snared and shot in large numbers for the +table, but do not show any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> signs of being exterminated. Ducks and +water-fowl generally abound, and are depended upon to eke out the +short supply of what we term butcher's meat. Three quarters of the +people never partake of other meat than pigeons, poultry, and wild +ducks. Eggs are little used as food, being reserved for hatching +purposes. All families in the country and many in the cities make a +business of raising poultry, but the product is a bird of small +dimensions, not half the size of our common domestic fowls. They are +very cheap, but they are also very poor. The practice is to keep them +alive until they are required for the table, so that they are killed, +picked, and eaten, all in the same hour, and are in consequence very +tough. As the climate permits of hens hatching every month in the +year, the young are constantly coming forward, and one mother annually +produces several broods; chickens, like tropical fruits, are +perennial.</p> + +<p>Sunday is no more a day of rest in Cienfuegos than it is in other +Roman Catholic countries; indeed, it seemed to be distinguished only +by an increase of revelry, the activity of the billiard saloons, the +noisy persistency of the lottery-ticket venders, the boisterousness of +masquerade processions, and a general public rollicking. The city is +not large enough to support a bull-ring, but cock-pits are to be found +all over the island, and the Sabbath is the chosen day for their +exhibitions. It must be a very small and very poor country town in +Cuba which has not its cock-pit. The inveterate gambling propensities +of the people find vent also at dominoes, cards, checkers, and chess +in the bar-rooms, every marble table being in requisition for the +purpose of the games on Sundays. Having noticed the sparse attendance +at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> cathedral, we remarked to Jane that the church was quite +empty, whereupon she replied with a significant leer, "True, Señor, +but the jail is full." More than once an underlying vein of sarcasm +was observed in the very pertinent remarks of which Jane was so +happily delivered.</p> + +<p>There are comparatively few slaves to be found on the plantations or +elsewhere in the vicinity of Cienfuegos: in fact, slavery is rapidly +disappearing from the island. "Slave labor is more costly than any +other, all things considered," said a sugar planter to us. "I do not +own one to-day, but I have owned and worked six hundred at a time," he +added. "We pay no tax on the laborers we hire, but on slaves we pay a +heavy head-tax annually." An edict has been promulgated by the home +government, which went into force last year, and which frees one slave +in every four annually, so that on January 1, 1888, all will have +become free. In the mean time the commercial value of slaves has so +decreased in view of their near emancipation that they are not +appraised on an average at over fifty or sixty dollars each. The law +has for a period of many years provided that any slave who pays to his +master his appraised value shall at once receive his free papers. Many +purchase their liberty under this law, and then hire themselves to the +same master or to some other, as they may choose,—at low wages, to be +sure, but including food and shelter. Slaves have always been entitled +by law in Cuba to hold individual property independent of their +masters, and there are few smart ones who have not accumulated more or +less pecuniary means during their servitude. They have had no expenses +to meet in the way of supporting themselves. That<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> has devolved upon +their owners, so that whatever money they have realized by the several +ways open to them has been clear profit. Many slaves have anticipated +the period of their legal release from servitude, and more will do so +during the present year. We also heard of planters who, realizing the +inevitable, have manumitted the few slaves whom they still held in +bondage, and hiring them at merely nominal wages, believed they saved +money by the operation.</p> + +<p>It will be seen, therefore, that slavery as an institution here is +virtually at an end. Low wages will prevail, and this is necessary to +enable the planters to compete with the beet sugar producers of +Europe. In truth, it is a question how long they will be able to do so +at any rate of wages. The modern machinery being so generally adopted +by the sugar-cane planters, while remarkably successful, both, as to +the quality and the quantity of the juice it expresses from the cane, +not only is expensive in first cost, but it requires more intelligent +laborers than were found serviceable with the old process. To supply +the places of the constantly diminishing slaves, emigrants, as they +were called, have heretofore been introduced from the Canary Islands; +men willing to contract for a brief period of years, say eight or ten, +as laborers, and at moderate wages. These people have proved to be +good plantation hands, though not so well able to bear the great heat +of the sun as were the negroes; otherwise they were superior to them, +and better in all respects than the Chinese coolies, who as workers on +the plantations have proved to be utter failures. The mortality among +these Mongolians, as we learned from good authority, had reached as +high as sixty-seven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> per cent, within eight years of their date of +landing in Cuba, that being also the period of their term of contract. +None have been introduced into the island for several years. This +coolie importation, like the slave-trade with Africa, was a fraud and +an outrage upon humanity, and never paid any one, even in a mercenary +point of view, except the shipowners who brought the deceived natives +from the coast of China. Slavery in Cuba and slavery in our country +were always quite a different thing, and strange to say the laws of +the Spanish government were far more favorable and humane towards the +victims of enforced labor than were those established in our Southern +States. When the American negro ceased to be a slave, he ceased to +cultivate the soil for his master only to cultivate it for himself. +Not so in the tropics. The Cuban negro, in the first place, is of a +far less intelligent type than the colored people in the States; +secondly, the abundance of natural food productions in the low +latitudes, such as fruit, fish, and vegetables, requires of the negro +only to pluck and to eat; clothing and shelter are scarcely needed, +and virtually cost nothing where one may sleep in the open air without +danger every night in the year; and finally, the negro of the tropics +will not work unless he is compelled to.</p> + +<p>There is a certain class of the Spanish slaveholders who have always +fought against negro emancipation in any form,—fought against +manifest destiny as well as against sound principles, fought indeed +against their own clear interest, so wedded were they to the vile +institution of slavery. Yet to every thinking man on the island, it is +clearly apparent that human slavery in Cuba, as everywhere else, has +proved to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> a disturber of the public peace, and has retarded more +than anything, else the material and moral progress of the entire +people. It is but a short time since that the editor of a Havana +newspaper, the "Revista Economica," was imprisoned in Moro Castle, and +without even the pretense of a trial afterwards banished from the +island, because he dared to point out the fact in print that the +freeing of the slaves would prove a mutual benefit to man and master, +besides being a grand act of humanity. Two years since the slaves on a +large plantation near Guines refused to work on a holiday which had +always heretofore been granted to them; whereupon the soldiery were +called in to suppress what was called a mutiny of the blacks, +resulting in nine negroes being shot dead, and many others put in +chains to be scourged at leisure. Doomed as we have shown slavery to +be, still it dies hard in Cuba.</p> + +<p>In the vicinity of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Trinidad, in the mountain +regions of the eastern district, there are many lawless +people,—banditti, in fact, who make war for plunder both upon native +and foreign travelers, even resorting in some cases to holding +prisoners for ransoms. Several aggravating instances of the latter +character came to our knowledge while we were on the spot. Since these +notes were commenced five of these robbers have been captured, +including the leader of the band to which they belonged, a notorious +outlaw named Clemente Martinez. They were taken by means of a +stratagem, whereby they were decoyed into an ambush, surrounded, and +captured red-handed, as they fought furiously, knowing that they had +no mercy to expect at the hands of the soldiers. It was the civil guard +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +at Rancho Veloz who made this successful raid into the hills, +and every one of the prisoners was summarily shot. Such, off-hand +punishment is dangerous, but in this instance it was no more prompt +than just. It is necessary, therefore, to carry arms for self-defense +upon the roads in some parts of the island, and even the countrymen +wear swords when bringing produce to market. Residents having occasion +to go any distance inland take a well-armed guard with them, to +prevent being molested by the desperate refugees who lurk in the hill +country. Undoubtedly many of these lawless bands are composed of +former revolutionists, who are driven to extremes by want of food and +the necessities of life.</p> + +<p>Our journey was continued from Cienfuegos to Havana, by way of +Matanzas, crossing the island nearly at right angles. The traveler +plunges at once by this route into the midst of luxuriant tropical +nature, where the vegetation is seen to special advantage, +characterized by a great variety of cacti and parasitic growth, +flowering trees and ever graceful palms, besides occasional ceibas of +immense size. Though the landscape, somehow, was sad and melancholy, +it gave rise to bright and interesting thoughts in the observer: +doubtless the landscape, like humanity, has its moods. Vegetation, +unlike mankind, seems here never to grow old, never to falter; crop +succeeds crop, harvest follows harvest; nature is inexhaustible,—it +is an endless cycle of abundance. Miles upon miles of the bright, +golden-green sugar-cane lie in all directions, among which, here and +there, is seen the little cluster of low buildings constituting the +negroes' quarters attached to each plantation, and near by is the tall +white chimney of the sugar-mill,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> emitting its thick volume of +wreathing smoke, like the funnel of a steamboat. A little on one side +stands the planter's house, low and white, surrounded by beautiful +shade trees and clustering groups of flowers. Scores of dusky Africans +give life to the scene, and the sturdy overseer, mounted on his little +Cuban pony, dashes back and forth to keep all hands advantageously at +work. One large gang is busy cutting the tall cane with sharp, +sword-like knives; some are loading the stalks upon ox-carts; some are +driving loads to the mill; some feeding the cane between the great +steel crushers, beneath which pours forth a ceaseless jelly-like +stream, to be conducted by iron pipes to the boilers; men, women, and +children are spreading the crushed refuse to dry in the sun, after +which it will be used for fuel. Coopers are heading up hogsheads full +of the manufactured article, and others are rolling up empty ones to +be filled.</p> + +<p>Some years ago, when the author first visited Cuba, the overseer was +never seen without his long, cutting whip, as well as his sword and +pistols. The latter he wears to-day, but the whip is unseen. The fact +is, the labor on the plantations is now so nearly free labor that +there is little if any downright cruelty exercised as of yore. Or, +rather, we will qualify the remark by saying that there has been a +vast improvement in this respect on the side of humanity. The shadow +of the picture lies in the past. One could not but recall in +imagination the horrors which so long characterized these plantations. +The bloodthirsty spirit of the Spanish slaveholders had free scope +here for centuries, during which time the invaders sacrificed the +entire aboriginal race; and since then millions of Africans have been +slowly murdered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> by overwork, insufficient food, and the lash, simply +to fill the pockets of their rapacious masters with gold. Few native +Cubans are sugar-planters. These estates are almost universally owned +and carried on by Spaniards from the European peninsula, or other +foreigners, including Englishmen and Americans.</p> + +<p>Occasionally, in the trip across the island, we passed through a crude +but picturesque little hamlet having the unmistakable stamp of +antiquity, with low straggling houses built of rude frames, covered at +side and roof with palm bark and leaves; chimneys there were +none,—none even in the cities,—charcoal only being used for cooking +purposes, and which is performed in the open air. About the door of +the long, rambling posada, a dozen or more horses were seen tied to a +long bar, erected for the purpose, but no wheeled vehicles were there. +The roads are only fit for equestrians, and hardly passable even for +them. At rare intervals one gets a glimpse of the volante, now so +generally discarded in the cities, and which suggested Dr. Holmes's +old chaise, prepared to tumble to pieces in all parts at the same +time. The people, the cabins, and the horses, are all stained with the +red dust of the soil, recalling the Western Indians in their war +paint. This pigment, or colored dirt, penetrates and adheres to +everything, filling the cars and decorating the passengers with a +dingy brick color. It was difficult to realize that these +comparatively indifferent places through which we glided so swiftly +were of importance and the permanent abode of any one. When the cars +stop at the small way-stations, they are instantly invaded by +lottery-ticket sellers, boys with tempting fruit, green cocoanuts, +ripe oranges, and bananas,—all cheap for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> cash. And here too is the +guava seller, with neatly sealed cans of the favorite preserve. +Indeed, it seems to rain guava jelly in Cuba. Others offer country +cheese, soft and white, with rolls, while in a shanty beside the road +hot coffee and "blue ruin" are dealt out to thirsty souls by a +ponderous mulatto woman. There are always a plenty of the denizens of +the place, in slovenly dresses and slouched hats, hands in pockets, +and puffing cigarettes, who do the heavy standing-round business. +Stray dogs hang about the car-wheels and track to pick up the crumbs +which passengers throw away from their lunch-baskets. Just over the +wild-pineapple hedge close at hand, half a score of naked negro +children hover round the door of a low cabin; the mother, fat and +shining in her one garment, gazes with arms akimbo at the scene of +which she forms a typical part. The engineer imbibes a penny drink of +thin Cataline wine and hastens back to his machine, which has been +taking water from an elevated cistern beside the track, the bell +rings, the whistle sounds, and we are off to repeat the process and +the picture, six or eight leagues further on. Take our advice and +don't attempt to make a meal at one of these stations. The viands are +wretchedly poor, and the price charged is a swindle.</p> + +<p>As we approach Matanzas the scene undergoes a radical change. +Comfortable habitations are multiplied, passable roads appear winding +gracefully about the country, groves and gardens spring into view, +with small and thrifty farms. Superb specimens of the royal palm begin +to appear in abundance, always suggestive of the Corinthian column. +Scattered over the hills and valleys a few fine cattle are seen +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +cropping the rank verdure. There is no greensward in the tropics, and +hay is never made. The scenery reminds one of Syria and the Nile.</p> + +<p>One sees some vegetable and fruit farms, but sugar raising absorbs +nearly every other interest, the tobacco leaf coming next, now that +coffee is so neglected. The farmer ploughs with the crooked branch of +a tree, having one handle with which to guide the crude machine,—just +such an instrument as is used for the purpose in Egypt to-day, and has +been used there for thousands of years. The cattle are mostly poor, +half-starved creatures,—starved amid a vegetation only too rank and +luxuriant. The dairy receives no attention in Cuba. Butter is seldom +made; the canned article from this country, thin and offensive, is +made to answer the purpose. The climate is too hot to keep butter or +cream without ice, and that is expensive. Human beings, men, women, +and children, look stunted and thin, possessing, however, wonderfully +fine eyes, large, lustrous, and ebony in hue; eyes that alone make +beauty; but the physiognomists have long since learned that eyes of +themselves are no indication of character or moral force.</p> + +<p>The thermometer had stood since early morning at 83°, during the long +ride from Cienfuegos. It was hot and dusty. Notwithstanding the +ceaseless novelty of the scene, one became a little fatigued, a little +weary; but as we approached Matanzas, the refreshing air from off the +Gulf of Mexico suddenly came to our relief, full of a bracing tonic, +and rendering all things tolerable. The sight of the broad harbor, +lying with its flickering surface under the afternoon sun, was +beautiful to behold.</p> + +<p>After all, these tropical regions lack the delicious +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +freshness of the greensward, of new foliage, and the fine fragrance of the rural North; +they need the invigorating sleep of the seasons from which to awake +refreshed and blooming. Where vegetation is growing and decaying at +the same time, there can never be general freshness and greenness; +eternal summer lacks interest; we crave the frost as well as the +sunshine. Compensation follows fast upon the heels of even a Northern +winter. The tropical loveliness of the vegetation in this attractive +land indicates what Cuba should be, but is not.</p> + +<p>Having accompanied the reader across many degrees of latitude, +effecting a landing and reaching the interior of Cuba, let us now pass +to other considerations of this interesting and important island.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +The Great Genoese Pilot. — Discovery of Cuba. — Its Various +Names. — Treatment of the Natives. — Tobacco! — Flora of +the Island. — Strange Idols. — Antiquity. — Habits of the +Aborigines. — Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. — A +Native Entertainment. — Paying Tribute. — Ancient Remains. +— Wrong Impression of Columbus. — First Attempt at +Colonization. — Battle with the Indians. — First Governor +of Cuba. — Founding Cities. — Emigration from Spain. — +Conquest of Mexico. +</div> + +<p>The island of Cuba was discovered by the great Genoese pilot, on the +28th day of October, 1492. The continent of America was not discovered +until six years later,—in 1498. The name of Columbus flashes a bright +ray over the mental darkness of the period in which he lived, for the +world was then but just awakening from the dull sleep of the Middle +Ages. The discovery of printing heralded the new birth of the republic +of letters, and maritime enterprise received a vigorous impulse. The +shores of the Mediterranean, thoroughly explored and developed, had +endowed the Italian States with extraordinary wealth, and built up a +very respectable mercantile marine. The Portuguese mariners were +venturing farther and farther from the peninsula, and traded with many +distant ports on the extended coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>To the west lay what men supposed to be an illimitable ocean, full of +mystery, peril, and death. A vague conception that islands hitherto +unknown might be met afar off on that strange wilderness of waters was +entertained by some minds, but no one thought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> of venturing in search +of them. Columbus alone, regarded merely as a brave and intelligent +seaman and pilot, conceived the idea that the earth was spherical, and +that the East Indies, the great El Dorado of the century, might be +reached by circumnavigating the globe. If we picture to ourselves the +mental condition of the age and the state of science, we shall find no +difficulty in conceiving the scorn and incredulity with which the +theory of Columbus was received. We shall not wonder that he was +regarded as a madman or as a fool; we are not surprised to remember +that he encountered repulse upon repulse as he journeyed wearily from +court to court, and pleaded in vain to the sovereigns of Europe for +aid to prosecute his great design. The marvel is that when door after +door was closed against him, when all ears were deaf to his earnest +importunities, when day by day the opposition to his views increased, +when, weary and footsore, he was forced to beg a bit of bread and a +cup of water for his fainting and famishing boy at the door of a +Spanish convent, his reason did not give way, and his great heart did +not break with disappointment.</p> + +<p>But he felt himself to be the instrument of a higher power, and his +soul was then as firm and steadfast as when, launched in his frail +caravél upon the ocean, he pursued day after day and night after +night, amidst a murmuring, discontented, and even mutinous crew, his +westward path across the trackless waters. No doubt he believed +himself to be inspired, or at least specially prompted from above. +This was shown by his tenacious observance of all ceremonies of the +Church, in his unaffected piety, and in that lofty and solemn +enthusiasm which was a characteristic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> of his whole life. This must +have been the secret in no small degree of the power he exerted so +successfully over his semi-barbarous followers, who were more affected +by awe than by fear. It was the devout and lofty aspect of their +commander which controlled his sailors under circumstances so trying. +We can conceive of his previous sorrows, but what imagination can form +an adequate conception of his hopefulness and gratitude when the +tokens of the neighborhood of land first greeted his senses? What +rapture must have been his when the keel of his barque first grounded +on the shore of San Salvador, and he planted the royal standard in the +soil, as the Viceroy and High-Admiral of Spain in the New World! No +matter what chanced thereafter, a king's favor or a king's +displeasure, royal largesses or royal chains, that moment of noble +exultation was worth a lifetime of trials.</p> + +<p>Columbus first named Cuba "Juana," in honor of Prince John, son of +Ferdinand and Isabella. Subsequently the king named it Fernandina. +This was changed to Santiago, and finally to Ave Maria; but the +aboriginal designation has never been lost, Cuba being its Indian and +only recognized name. The new-comers found the land inhabited by a +most peculiar race, hospitable, inoffensive, timid, fond of the dance +and the rude music of their own people, yet naturally indolent, from +the character of the climate they inhabited. They had some definite +idea of God and heaven, and were governed by patriarchs or kings, +whose word was their only law, and whose age gave them undisputed +precedence. They spoke the dialect of the Lucayos, or Bahamas, from +which islands it is presumed by historians they originated; but it +would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> seem more reasonable to suppose that both the people of the +Bahamas and of the West India isles came originally from the mainland; +that is, either north or south of the Isthmus of Panama. In numbers +they were vaguely estimated at a million, a calculation the +correctness of which we cannot but doubt. Reliable local authority, +Cubans who have made a study of the early history of the island, +assured the author that the aborigines at the time of Velasquez's +first settlement, say in 1512, could not have exceeded four hundred +thousand. They had but few weapons of offense or defense, and knew not +the use of the bow and arrow. Being a peaceful race and having no wild +animals to contend with, their ingenuity had never been taxed to +invent weapons of warfare against man or beast. The natives were at +once subjected by the new-comers, who reduced them gradually to an +actual state of slavery, and proving hard task-masters, the poor +overworked creatures died by hundreds, until they had nearly +disappeared. The home government then granted permission to import +negroes from the coast of Africa to labor upon the soil and to seek +for gold, which was known to exist in the river courses. Thus +commenced the foreign slave-trade of the West Indies, King Ferdinand +himself sending fifty slaves from Seville to labor in the mines, and +from that time this plague spot upon humanity has festered on the +island. It should be remembered in this connection that previous to +the discoveries of Columbus, negro slavery had been reduced to a +system by the Moors, and thus existed in Spain before the days of the +great Genoese.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards were not content with putting the aborigines to labor +far beyond their power of endurance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> on the soil where they were born, +but shipped them by hundreds to Spain to be sold in the slave-market +of Seville, the proceeds being turned into the royal treasury. +Columbus himself was the promoter of this outrageous return for the +hospitality he had received at the hands of the natives. Irving +apologetically says he was induced to this course in order to +indemnify the sovereigns of Castile and Leon for the large expense his +expedition had been to them. The fact that the great navigator +originated the slave-trade in the New World cannot be ignored, though +it detracts in no small degree from the glory of his career.</p> + +<p>Although the conquerors have left us but few details respecting these +aborigines, still we know with certainty from the narrative of +Columbus, and those of some of his most intelligent followers, that +they were docile, artless, generous, but inclined to ease; that they +were well-formed, grave, and far from possessing the vivacity of the +natives of the south of Europe. They expressed themselves with a +certain modesty and respect, and were hospitable to the last degree. +Reading between the lines of the records of history, it is manifest +that after their own rules and estimates, their lives were chaste and +proper, though it was admissible for kings to have several wives. +Moreover, though living in a state of nudity, they religiously +observed the decencies of life, and were more outraged by Spanish +lasciviousness than can be clearly expressed. This debasing trait, +together with the greed for gold exhibited by the new-comers, +disabused the minds of the natives as to the celestial origin of their +visitors, a belief which they at first entertained, and which the +Spaniards for mercenary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> purposes strove to impress upon them. The +labor of this people was limited to the light work necessary to +provide for the prime wants of life, beyond which they knew nothing, +while the bounteous climate of the tropics spared the necessity of +clothing. They preferred hunting and fishing to agriculture; beans and +maize, with the fruits that nature gave them in abundance, rendered +their diet at once simple, nutritious, and entirely adequate to all +their wants. They possessed no quadrupeds of any description, except a +race of voiceless dogs, as they were designated by the early +writers,—why we know not, since they bear no resemblance to the +canine species, but are not very unlike a large rat. This animal is +trapped and eaten by the people on the island to this day, having much +of the flavor and nature of the rabbit.</p> + +<p>The native Cubans were of tawny complexion and beardless, resembling +in many respects the aborigines of North America, and as Columbus +described them in his first communication to his royal patrons, were +"loving, tractable, and peaceable; though entirely naked, their +manners were decorous and praiseworthy." The wonderful fecundity of +the soil, its range of noble mountains, its widespread and +well-watered plains, with its extended coast line and excellent +harbors, all challenged the admiration of the discoverers, so that +Columbus recorded in his journal these words: "It is the most +beautiful island that eyes ever beheld,—full of excellent ports and +profound rivers." And again he says; "It excels all other countries, +as far as the day surpasses the night in brightness and splendor." The +spot where the Spaniards first landed is supposed to be on the east +coast, just west of Nuevitas. "As he approached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the island," says +Irving, "he was struck with its magnitude and the grandeur of its +features: its airy mountains, which reminded him of Sicily; its +fertile valleys and long sweeping plains, watered by noble rivers; its +stately forests; its bold promontories and stretching headlands, which +melted away into remotest distance."</p> + +<p>Excursions inland corroborated the favorable impression made by the +country bordering upon the coast. The abundance of yams, Indian corn, +and various fruits, together with the plentifulness of wild cotton, +impressed the explorers most favorably. Their avarice and greed were +also stimulated by the belief that gold was to be found in large +quantities, having received enough to convince them of its actual +presence in the soil, but in the supposition that the precious metal +was to be found in what is termed paying quantities they were +mistaken.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards were not a little surprised to see the natives using +rude pipes, in which they smoked a certain dried leaf with apparent +gratification. Tobacco was indigenous, and in the use of this now +universal narcotic, these simple savages indulged in at least one +luxury. The flora was strongly individualized. The frangipanni, tall +and almost leafless, with thick fleshy shoots, decked with a small +white blossom, was very fragrant and abundant; here also was the wild +passion-flower, in which the Spaniards thought they beheld the emblems +of our Saviour's passion. The golden-hued peta was found beside the +myriad-flowering oleander, while the undergrowth was braided with +cacti and aloes. The poisonous manchineel was observed, a drop of +whose milky juice will burn the flesh like vitriol. Here the invaders +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +also observed and noted the night-blooming cereus. They were delighted +by fruits of which they knew not the names, such as the custard-apple, +mango, zapota, banana, and others, growing in such rank luxuriance as +to seem miraculous. We can well conceive of the pleasure and surprise +of these adventurous strangers, when first partaking of these new and +delicate products. This was four hundred years ago, and to-day the +same flora and the same luscious food grow there in similar abundance. +Nature in this land of ceaseless summer puts forth strange eagerness, +ever running to fruits, flowers, and fragrance, as if they were +outlets for her exuberant fecundity.</p> + +<p>The inoffensive, unsuspicious natives shared freely everything they +possessed with the invaders. Hospitality was with them an instinct, +fostered by nature all about them; besides which it was a considerable +time before they ceased to believe their guests superior beings +descended from the clouds in their winged vessels. The Indians lived +in villages of two or three hundred houses, built of wood and +palm-leaf, each dwelling containing several families, the whole of one +lineage, and all were governed by caciques or kings, the spirit of the +government being patriarchal.</p> + +<p>We are told by Las Casas, who accompanied Velasquez in all his +expeditions, that "their dances were graceful and their singing +melodious, while with primeval innocence they thought no harm of being +clad only with nature's covering." The description of the gorgeous +hospitality extended to these treacherous invaders is absolutely +touching in the light of our subsequent knowledge. They reared no +sacred temples, nor did they seem to worship idols, and yet some few +antiquities have been preserved which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> would seem to indicate that the +natives possessed grotesque images, half human and half animal, like +Chinese gods in effect. These were wrought so rudely out of stone as +hardly to convey any fixed idea; vague and imperfect, it is not safe +to define them as idolatrous images. They might have been left here by +a previous race, for, as we are all aware, respectable authorities +hold that this part of the world was originally peopled by +Carthaginians, Israelites, Egyptians, Hindoos, and Africans. Columbus, +in his second voyage to the West Indies, found the stern-post of a +vessel lying on the shore of one of the Leeward isles, which was +strongly presumptive evidence that a European ship had been in these +waters before him. The fact that at this writing, as already +described, there lies in the harbor of Santiago the wreck of the old +St. Paul, which must be over three centuries old, shows how long a +piece of marine architecture may last, submerged in salt water.</p> + +<p>An idol similar to those referred to was dug up in Hayti, and is now +believed to be in the British Museum, drawings of which the author has +seen, and which resemble original religious emblems examined by him in +the caves of Elephanta, at Bombay. This emblem, carved by a people +unacquainted with the use of edge tools, is believed by antiquarians +to afford a degree of light as to the history of worship of the +ancient inhabitants of Hispaniola, and also to form a collateral +support of the conjecture that they sprang from the parent stock of +Asia. According to Las Casas, the native Cubans had a vague tradition +of the formation of the earth, and of all created things; of the +deluge, of the ark, the raven, and the dove. They knew the tradition +of Noah also, according to the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> high authority, but for our own +part we do not believe that the aborigines had any knowledge of this +Biblical story. Their priests were fanatics and kept the people in +fear by gross and extravagant means; but as to any formulated system +of religious worship, it may be doubted if the aborigines of Cuba +recognized any at the time of its discovery by Columbus. Unbroken +peace reigned among them, and they turned their hands against no other +people.</p> + +<p>These aborigines exhibited many of the traits universally evinced by +savage races, such as painting their bodies with red earth and +adorning their heads with the feathers of brilliant birds. Much of the +soil is red, almost equal to a pigment, for which purpose it was +employed by the natives. They lived mostly in the open air, weaving +themselves hammocks in which they slept, suspended among the trees. +The cotton which they spun grew wild, but tobacco they planted and +cultivated after a rude fashion. The iguana and the voiceless dog, +already spoken of, were hunted and eaten, the former of the lizard +family, the latter scarcely more than fifteen inches long. They had +domestic birds which they fattened and ate. Their only arms were +lances tipped with sea-shells, and a sort of wooden sword, both of +which were more for display than for use. Fish they caught in nets and +also with hooks made of bones. Their boats, or canoes, were formed of +the dug-out trunks of trees, and some of these canoes, as Columbus +tells us, were sufficiently large to accommodate fifty men. An ancient +writer upon this subject says the oars were well formed and properly +fitted, but were used only with the power of the arms, that is as +paddles, no rowlocks being cut in the boat. The speed attained by +them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> was remarkable, reaching four leagues an hour when an effort to +that end was made by the occupants. A large canoe, made from the +straight trunk of a mahogany tree, is described as having been five +feet in width and seventy-five feet long. This craft was propelled by +twenty-five oarsmen on each side, a steersman in the stern, and a +lookout at the prow. This was a cacique's barge, in which he made +visits of state along shore and up the rivers.</p> + +<p>History has preserved a remarkable and characteristic speech made by a +venerable cacique, who approached Columbus with great reverence on the +occasion of his second visit to Cuba, and who, after presenting him +with a basket of ripe fruit, said: "Whether you are divinities or +mortal men, we know not. You have come into these countries with a +force, against which, were we inclined to resist, it would be folly. +We are all therefore at your mercy; but if you are men, subject to +mortality like ourselves, you cannot be unapprised that after this +life there is another, wherein a very different portion is allotted to +good and bad men. If therefore you expect to die, and believe, with +us, that every one is to be rewarded in a future state according to +his conduct in the present, you will do no hurt to those who do none +to you." This was duly interpreted to Columbus by a native whom he had +taken to Spain, and who had there acquired the Spanish language. His +name was Didacus, and the date of the speech was July 7, 1492. The +truth of this version is attested by Herrera and others.</p> + +<p>The reception which Bartholomew Columbus, who was appointed Deputy +Governor in the absence of the Admiral, afterwards met with in his +progress through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> the island to collect tribute from the several +caciques manifested not only kindness and submission, but also +munificence. Having heard of the eagerness of the strangers for gold, +such of them as possessed any brought it forth and freely bestowed it +upon the Spaniards. Those who had not gold brought abundance of +cotton. One cacique in the interior, named Behechio, invited the +Deputy Governor to a state entertainment, on which occasion he was +received with great ceremony. As he approached the king's dwelling, +the royal wives, thirty in number, carrying branches of palm in their +hands, came forth to greet the guest with song and dance. These +matrons were succeeded by a train of virgins. The first wore aprons of +cotton, the last were arrayed only in the innocence of nature, their +hair flowing long and freely about their shoulders and necks. Their +limbs were finely proportioned, and their complexions, though brown, +were smooth, shining, and lovely. The Spaniards were struck with +admiration, believing that they beheld the dryads of the woods and the +nymphs of the ancient fables. The branches which they bore were +delivered to the strangers with low obeisance, indicating entire +submission. When the Spaniards entered the rural palace, amid songs +and the rude music of the people, they found there a plentiful and, +according to the Indian mode of living, a sumptuous banquet prepared +for them.</p> + +<p>After the repast the guests were each conducted to separate lodgings, +and each provided with a cotton hammock. On the next day feasting and +games were resumed; dancing and singing closed each evening for four +consecutive days, and when the Deputy Governor and his people +departed, they were laden with gifts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> by their generous entertainers, +who also accompanied them far on their way. This episode will perhaps +serve better to give us a just insight into the condition and +character of the aborigines of Cuba at that early period than any +amount of detailed description possibly could.</p> + +<p>These aborigines, according to Las Casas, had no tradition even, +touching their own origin, and when asked about it only shook their +heads and pointed to the sky. Antiquarians have endeavored to draw +some reliable or at least reasonable deductions from the collection of +bones and skeletons found in the mountain caves of the island, but no +conclusion worthy of record has ever been arrived at. Still, upon +these evidences some scientists pin their faith that Cuba was a +portion of the primitive world. Speaking of these caves, there are +many subterranean openings on the island, down which rivers of +considerable size abruptly disappear, not again to be met with, though +it is reasonably presumed that they find their way through the rocks +and soil to the sea-coast.</p> + +<p>During the ten years subsequent to its discovery, Columbus visited and +partially explored the island at four different times, the last being +in 1502, four years previous to his death, which took place at +Valladolid in 1506. It seems singular to us that his investigations +left him still ignorant of the fact that Cuba was an island, and not a +part of a new continent. This conviction remained with him during his +lifetime. It was not until 1511 that the Spaniards commenced to +colonize the island, when Diego Columbus, then Governor of San +Domingo, sent an expedition of three hundred men for the purpose, +under the command of Diego Velasquez, whose landing was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> disputed by +the natives. A period of ten years had served to open their eyes to +Spanish lust and lore of gold, and from having at first regarded them +as superior beings, entitled to their obedience, they were finally +thus driven to fight them in self-defense. But what could naked +savages, armed only with clubs and spears, accomplish against +Europeans, trained soldiers, furnished with firearms, protected by +plate armor, and accompanied by bloodhounds,—men who had learned the +art of war by fighting successfully with the valiant Moors? The +natives were at once overpowered and hundreds were slaughtered. From +that time forth they became the slaves of their conquerors; a fact +which reconciles us in some degree in the light of poetical justice to +the fact that Amerigo Vespucci, who followed in the footsteps of +others, yet took the honors of discovery so far as to give his name to +the largest quarter of the globe.</p> + +<p>Diego Velasquez, the earliest Governor of the island, appears to have +been an energetic and efficient magistrate, and to have administered +affairs with vigor and intelligence. He did not live, however, in a +period when justice ever erred on the side of mercy, and his harsh and +cruel treatment of the aborigines will always remain a stain upon his +memory. The native population soon dwindled away under the sway of the +Spaniards, who imposed tasks upon them far beyond their physical +powers of endurance. The victims of this hardship had no one to +befriend them at that time, and no one has done them justice in +history. The few glimpses of their character which have come down to +us are of a nature greatly to interest us in this now extinct race. +Their one fault was in trusting the invaders at all. At the outset +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +they could have swept them from the face of the earth, but, once +permitted to establish themselves, they soon became too powerful to be +driven out of the land. A native chief, whose only crime was that of +taking up arms in defense of the integrity of his little territory, +fell into the hands of Velasquez, and was cruelly burned at the stake, +near what is now the town of Yara, as a punishment for his patriotism. +The words of this unfortunate but brave chief (Hatuey), extorted by +the torments which he suffered, were: "I prefer hell to heaven, if +there are Spaniards in heaven!"</p> + +<p>In point of energetic action and material progress, Velasquez reminds +us of a later Governor-General, the famous Tacon. In a single decade, +Velasquez founded the seven cities of Baracoa, Santiago de Cuba, +Trinidad, Bayamo, Puerto del Principe, St. Spiritus, and, on the south +coast near Batabano, Havana, since removed to its present site. He +caused the mines to be opened and rendered them profitable, introduced +valuable breeds of cattle, instituted agricultural enterprise, and +opened a large trade with San Domingo, Jamaica, and the Spanish +peninsula. Population increased rapidly, thousands of persons +emigrating annually from Europe, tempted by the inviting stories of +the returned explorers. Emigration schemes were approved and fostered +by the home government, and thus a large community was rapidly divided +among the several cities upon the island. Still this new province was +considered mainly in the light of a military depot by the Spanish +throne, in its famous operations at that period in Mexico. The fact +that it was destined to prove the richest jewel in the Castilian +crown, and a mine of wealth to the Spanish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> treasury, was not dreamed +of at that date in its history. Even the enthusiastic followers of +Cortez, who sought that fabulous El Dorado in the New World, had no +promise for this gem of the Caribbean Sea; but, in spite of every side +issue and all contending interests, the island continued to grow in +numbers and importance, while its native resources were far beyond the +appreciation of the home government.</p> + +<p>Thus Cuba became the headquarters of the Spanish power in the West, +forming the point of departure for those military expeditions which, +though circumscribed in numbers, were yet so formidable in the energy +of the leaders, and in the arms, discipline, courage, fanaticism, and +avarice of their followers, that they were amply adequate to carry out +the vast scheme of conquest for which they were designed. It was hence +that Cortez embarked for the conquest of Mexico; a gigantic +undertaking, a slight glance at which will recall to the mind of the +reader the period of history to which we would direct his attention.</p> + +<p>Landing upon the continent (1518) with a little band scarcely more +than half the complement of a modern regiment, Cortez prepared to +traverse an unknown country, thronged by savage tribes with whose +character, habits, and means of defense he was wholly unacquainted. +This romantic adventure, worthy of the palmiest days of chivalry, was +finally crowned with success, though checkered with various fortunes, +and stained with bloody episodes that prove how the threads of courage +and ferocity are inseparably blended in the woof and warp of Spanish +character. It must be remembered, however, that the spirit of the age +was harsh, relentless, and intolerant, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>and that if the Aztecs, +idolaters and sacrificers of human victims, found no mercy at the +hands of the fierce Catholics whom Cortez commanded, neither did the +Indians of our own section of the continent fare much better at the +hands of men professing to be disciples of a purer faith, and coming +to these shores, not as warriors, but themselves persecuted fugitives.</p> + +<p>The Spanish generals who invaded Mexico encountered a people who had +attained a far higher point of civilization than their red brethren of +the outlying Caribbean Islands, or those of the northeastern portion +of the continent. Vast pyramids, imposing sculptures, curious arms, +fanciful garments, various kinds of manufactures, the relics of which +strongly interest the student of the past, filled the invaders with +surprise. There was much that was curious and startling in their +mythology, and the capital of the Mexican empire presented a strange +and fascinating spectacle to the eyes of Cortez. The rocky +amphitheatre in the midst of which it was built still remains +unchanged, but the great lake which surrounded it, traversed by +causeways and covered with floating gardens laden with flowers, is +gone.</p> + +<p>The star of the Aztec dynasty set in blood. In vain did the +inhabitants of the conquered city, roused to madness by the cruelty +and extortion of the victors, expel them from their midst. Cortez +refused to flee farther than the shore; the light of his burning +galleys rekindled the desperate valor of his followers, and Mexico +fell, as a few years after did Peru under the perfidy and sword of +Pizarro, thus completing the scheme of conquest, and giving Spain a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +colonial empire far more splendid than that of any other power in +Christendom.</p> + +<p>Of the agents in this vast scheme of territorial aggrandizement, we +see Cortez dying in obscurity and Pizarro assassinated in his palace, +while retributive justice has overtaken the monarchy at whose behest +the richest portions of the Western Continent were violently wrested +from their native possessors.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Baracoa, the First Capital. — West Indian Buccaneers. — +Military Despotism. — A Perpetual State of Siege. — A +Patriotic Son of Cuba. — Political Condition of the Island. +— Education of Cuban Youths. — Attempts at Revolution. — +Fate of General Narciso Lopez. — The Late Civil War and its +Leader. — Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. — +Stronghold of the Insurgents. — Guerrillas. — Want of +Self-Reliance. — Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. — +What Spain was. — What Spain is. — Rise and Fall of an Empire. +</div> + +<p>Baracoa lies one hundred miles northeast from Santiago, and was the +capital of the island as first established by Velasquez. Here Leo X. +erected in 1518 the first cathedral in Cuba. The town is situated on +the north coast, near the eastern extremity of the island, having a +small but deep harbor, and a considerable trade in the shipping of +sugar and fruits to this country. The population at present numbers +about six thousand. Five years after the settlement of Baracoa, the +capital was moved to Santiago de Cuba, where it remained until 1589, +when Havana was formally declared to be the capital of the island, its +first Captain-General being Juan de Tejada. The city was captured and +partially destroyed by a French pirate in 1638, and afterwards +suffered a like catastrophe at the hands of the buccaneers of combined +nationality, embracing some disaffected Spaniards. So late as 1760 +Havana was captured and held by the English, under the Duke of +Albemarle, but was restored to Spain, after a brief occupancy, in +1763. The first grand impulse to the material prosperity of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +the city, anomalous though it may seem, was given through its capture by the +British. It is true that the victors seized everything by force, but +they also taught the listless people how to repair their losses, and +how to multiply prosperity. The port of Havana, accustomed heretofore +to receive the visits of half a score of European vessels annually, +suddenly became the rendezvous of a thousand ships in the same period +of time, much to the surprise of the inhabitants. Bourbon in nature as +the Spaniards were and still are, they could not but profit by the +brilliant example of their enemies, and from that time forward the +city grew rapidly in commercial importance, and has continued to do +so, notwithstanding the rivalry of Matanzas, Santiago, Cienfuegos, and +other ports, as well as the drawbacks of civil war and business +stagnation.</p> + +<p>These buccaneers of the West Indies, to whom we have so often alluded, +were composed mostly of English, French, and Dutch adventurers, whose +bitter hatred the Spaniards early incurred. They were for a long time +their terror and scourge, being the real masters of the ocean in these +latitudes. They feared no enemy and spared none, while by shocking +acts of needless cruelty they proved themselves fiends in human shape. +Among these rovers there were often found men particularly fitted for +the adventurous career they had adopted, men who combined remarkable +executive ability with a spirit of daring bravery and a total +disregard of all laws, human and divine. By a few such leaders the +bands of freebooters were held in hand, and preserved their +organization for many years; obedience to the word of their chief, +after he was once chosen as such, being the one inviolable +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +law of their union. The romance of the sea owes its most startling chapters +to the career of these pirates. Sometimes their principal rendezvous +was at the Isle of Pines; at others further north among the Bahamas, +Nassau being one of their favorite resorts.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, under numerous and often changed Captains-General, +the island of Cuba increased in population by free emigration from +Spain, and by the constant importations of slaves from Africa. It may +be said to have been governed by a military despotism from the very +outset to the present time; and nothing short of such an arbitrary +rule could maintain the connection between the island and so exacting +a mother country, more than three thousand miles across the ocean. +Accordingly we find the Captain-General invested with unlimited power. +He is in fact a viceroy appointed by the crown of Spain, and +accountable only to the reigning sovereign for his administration of +the colony. His rule is absolute. He has the power of life and death +in his hands. He can by his arbitrary will send into exile any person +who resides in the island whom he considers inimical to the interests +of the home government. Of the exercise of this power instances are +constantly occurring, as in the case of the editor of the "Revista +Economica," already recorded. He can at will suspend the operation of +the laws and ordinances, can destroy or confiscate property, and in +short, the island may be said to be in a perpetual state of siege.</p> + +<p>Such is the infirmity of human nature that few individuals can be +safely trusted with despotic power; accordingly we find no +Captain-General whose administration will bear the test of rigid +examination. Indeed, the venality of a majority of these officials +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +has been so gross as to have passed into a proverb. It is not to be +expected that officers from Spain should consult the true interests of +the Cubans; they are not sent hither for that purpose, but merely to +look after the revenue of the crown, and to swell it to the very +uttermost. The office of Governor-General is of course a brilliant +prize, for which there are plenty of aspirants eagerly struggling, +while the means by which a candidate is most likely to succeed in +obtaining the appointment presupposes a character of an inferior +order. This official knows that he cannot count on a long term of +office, and hence he makes no effort to study the interests or gain +the good-will of the people over whom he presides. He has a twofold +object only in view: namely, to keep the revenue well up to the mark, +and to enrich himself as speedily as possible. The princely salary he +receives—fifty thousand dollars per annum, with a palace and +household attendants supplied—is but a portion of the income which, +by a system of peculation, he is enabled to divert to his private +coffers. As a rule, the Captain-General comes out to Cuba a poor man, +and returns a rich one, however brief his term of office.</p> + +<p>Occasionally during the lapse of years a true and patriotic man has +filled this important post, when the remarkable elements of prosperity +contained within the limits of this peerless land were rapidly +developed and advanced. Such an one was Don Luis de las Casas, whose +name is cherished by all patriotic Cubans, as also is that of Don +Francisco de Arrango, an accomplished statesman and a native of +Havana. He was educated in Spain, and designed to follow the law as a +profession. This man, being thoroughly acquainted with the +possibilities of the island and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> condition and wants of his +countrymen, succeeded in procuring the amelioration of some of the +most flagrant abuses of the colonial system. In his argument for +reform before the home government, he told them that serious dissent +permeated every class of the community, and was bid in return to +employ a still more stringent system of rule. To this Arrango replied +that force was not remedy, and that to effectually reform the +rebellious they must first reform the laws. His earnest reason carried +conviction, and finally won concession. By his exertions the staple +productions of the island were so much increased that the revenue, in +place of falling short of the expenses of the government as his +enemies had predicted, soon yielded a large surplus. He early raised +his voice against the iniquitous slave trade, and suggested the +introduction of white labor, though he admitted that the immediate and +wholesale abolition of slavery was impracticable. This was the rock on +which he split, as it regarded his influence with the Spaniards in +Cuba, that is, with the planters and rich property holders. Slavery +with them was a sine qua non. Many of them owned a thousand Africans +each, and the institution, as an arbitrary power as well as the means +of wealth, was ever dear to the Spanish heart. Former and subsequent +Captains-General not only secretly encouraged the clandestine +importation of slaves, after issuing an edict prohibiting it, but +profited pecuniarily by the business. It was owing to his exertions +that the duty on coffee, spirits, and cotton was remitted for a period +of ten years, and that machinery for the sugar plantations was allowed +to be imported into Cuba from the United States free of all duty.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +The patriotic services of Arrango were appreciated by the court of +Madrid, although he was at times the inflexible opponent of its +selfish schemes. The Cross of Charles III. showed the esteem in which +he was held by that monarch. With a modesty which did him honor he +declined to accept a title of nobility which was afterwards tendered +to him by his king. This patriotic son of Cuba was at heart a +republican, and declared that the king could make noblemen, but God +only could make gentlemen. In 1813, when, by the adoption of the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba became entitled to representation in the +general Cortes,—a privilege but briefly enjoyed,—he went to Madrid +as a deputy, and there achieved the crowning glory of his useful life: +namely, the opening of the ports of the island to foreign trade. In +1817 he returned to his native land with the rank of Counselor of +State and Financial Intendant of Cuba, also possessing the Grand Cross +of the Order of Isabella. He died in 1837, at the age of seventy-two, +after a long and eminently useful life, bequeathing large sums of +money for various public purposes in his native isle.</p> + +<p>When the invasion of Spain, which took place in 1808, produced the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba was considered entitled, as we have stated, +to enjoy its benefits, and it was so announced by royal statute; but +political revolution at home and a manifest restiveness upon the +island finally led in 1836 to the revoking of this royal statute, +which had never been practically operative, and the old Constitution +was proclaimed.</p> + +<p>Up to this period of time the various political events at home had +disturbed but slightly the tranquillity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> of this rich province of +Spain. The Cubans, although sensible of the progress of public +intelligence and wealth under the protection of a few enlightened +governors and through the influence of some distinguished and +patriotic individuals, still felt that these advances were slow, +partial, and limited. The most intelligent realized that there was no +regular system; that the public interests were sure to suffer, +confided to officials entrusted with unlimited power. They frequently +saw themselves betrayed by a cupidity which impelled the authorities +to enrich themselves in every possible way at the expense of general +suffering. Added to these sources of discontent was the powerful +influence exerted by the spectacle of the rapidly increasing greatness +of the United States, where a portion of the Cuban youths were wont to +receive their education. No matter in what political faith these +youths had left home, they were sure to return republicans.</p> + +<p>There also were the examples of Mexico and Spanish South America, +which had recently conquered with their blood their emancipation from +monarchy. Liberal ideas were naturally diffused by Cubans who had +traveled either in Europe or North America, there imbibing the spirit +of modern civilization. But with a fatuity and obstinacy which has +always characterized her, the mother country resolved to ignore all +causes of discontent, and their significant influence as manifested by +the people of the island. In place of yielding to the popular current +and introducing a liberal and mild system of government, she drew the +reins yet tighter, curtailing many former privileges. Thus it was that +blind persistence in the fatal principle of despotic domination +relaxed the natural bonds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> uniting Cuba and the mother country, and +infused gall into the hearts of the governed. Obedience still +continued, but it was the dangerous obedience of terror, not the +secure and instinctive spirit of loyalty.</p> + +<p>This severity on the part of the home government has naturally given +rise to several attempts to cast off the Spanish yoke. The first +occurred in 1823, when Simon Bolivar offered to aid the disaffected +party by throwing an invading force into the island. Another was made +in 1826, and a third in 1828. In 1848 a conspiracy was formed at +Cienfuegos and Trinidad to establish Cuban independence, under the +leadership of General Narciso Lopez; but finding that his plans were +premature, he escaped to this country, and here arranged a descent +upon the island, which he led in person: this was in 1850. General +Lopez, however, was not seconded by the timid natives, though they had +freely pledged themselves to do so, and his expedition, after winning +one decisive battle and several important skirmishes, was at last +overpowered and its leader promptly executed. General Lopez was an +adopted citizen of Cuba, and was married to one of her daughters. He +was executed at the age of fifty-two.</p> + +<p>The Lopez expedition would seem to have been the most serious and best +organized attempt at revolution in Cuba by invasion, though there have +been formidable attempts since. From 1868 to 1876 Cuba may be said to +have been in a state of chronic civil war. This outbreak was led by +Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, an able lawyer and wealthy planter of +Bayamo, in the eastern department of the island. He raised the +standard of independence on his estate, Demajagua, supported at the +outset by less than fifty men. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> was in October, 1868, and by the +middle of November he had an organized army of twelve thousand men; +poorly armed, it must be admitted, but united in purpose and of +determined will. That portion of the island contiguous to Santiago, +and between that city and Cienfuegos, was for a long period almost +entirely in possession of the patriot forces. Here many sanguinary +battles were fought with varying fortune, at terrible sacrifice of +life, especially on the part of the government troops, over one +hundred thousand of whom, first and last, are known to have perished +in that district. Spain actually sent one hundred and forty-five +thousand enlisted men to Cuba during the eight years of active +warfare. Of this number those who finally returned to the European +peninsula were but a few hundreds! It was publicly stated in the +Cortes of Madrid that not enough of that immense force ever returned +to fill a single regiment! The climate was far more fatal to these +soldiers than were patriot bullets. The warfare was conducted by the +native Cubans mostly on the guerrilla plan, and was ten times more +destructive to the imported soldiers than to themselves. Discipline +counted for little or nothing in contending with men who fought +single-handed and from ambush, decimating the ranks of an invading +column, who in turn could only fire at random.</p> + +<p>Exhaustion and promised concessions, which were, as usual with the +Spanish government, never fulfilled, finally brought this struggle to +an end; but it cost Spain many millions of dollars and the lives of +over a hundred and fifty thousand men, saying nothing of the +destruction of an enormous amount of property on the island, belonging +to loyal Spaniards. Miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> upon miles of thrifty plantations, with all +their buildings and machinery, were laid waste, and remain so to this +day.</p> + +<p>Since 1876 there have been roving bands of insurgents in existence, +causing the authorities more or less serious trouble, leading them at +times to make serious attempts at their entire suppression. But the +mountains and half-inaccessible forests of the eastern department +still serve to secrete many armed and disaffected people, whose +frequent outbreaks are made public by the slow process of oral +information. The press is forbidden to publish any news of this +character. Thus it will be seen that, although the spirit of liberty +may slumber in the island, it is by no means dead, nor is the intense +hatred which exists between the home-born Spaniard and the native +Cuban growing less from year to year. Indeed, the insurrection of +Trinidad and Cienfuegos (1868) still smoulders, and any extreme +political exigency would be liable to cause it to blaze forth with +renewed force. The region where the insurgents have always made their +rendezvous, and which they have virtually held for years, is nearest +to Guantanamo and Santiago. This mountainous district is the resort of +all runaway slaves, escaped criminals, and those designated as +insurgents. These together form at the present time a roving community +of several hundred desperate men. These refugees, divided into small +bands, make predatory raids upon travelers and loyal planters, as we +have described, to keep themselves supplied with the necessities of +life other than those afforded by the prolific hand of Nature. +Occasionally they are organized by some fresh leader, some daring +native, stimulated by a spirit of patriotism, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>and possessing some +executive ability; then follows a systematic outbreak of just +sufficient importance to harass the government, and to form, perhaps, +an excuse for demanding a fresh regiment of victims from the European +peninsula. Such a guerrilla contest engages the worst passions of the +combatants, and quarter is neither asked nor given when they come face +to face. The bloodthirsty acts of both sides, as related to the author +during his late visit to the spot, are too horrible to record in these +pages. It is not legitimate warfare, but rather wholesale murder, +which characterizes these occasions, and there is no expedient of +destruction not resorted to by both the refugees and the pursuing +soldiers. The nature of the country favors the revolutionists, and +determines their mode of conflict. Thus far, when the irregular bands +have been strong enough to meet these detachments of regulars sent +into their neighborhood to capture them, they have nearly always +beaten them gallantly, and this has served to perpetuate their hopes, +desperate as is a cause which only outlaws, escaped criminals, and +slaves dare to fight for. These people appear to be well supplied with +arms and ammunition, which it is said are smuggled to them from +sympathizers in this country, particularly from Florida. Though their +ranks are supposed to embrace but small numbers, still they form a +nucleus at all times, about which discontented spirits may gather. +Thus it is found necessary to quarter a foreign army of thirty +thousand soldiers upon the people at the present time, while half the +navy of Spain lies anchored in the ports of the island.</p> + +<p>One great drawback and defect in the character<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> of the native Cubans +is a want of self-reliance. The remedy for the outrageous oppression +under which they have so long struggled lies within themselves; "for +they can conquer who believe they can." In the consciousness of +strength is strength, but the Creole republicans have never yet +evinced the necessary degree of true manhood to challenge general +outside sympathy, or to command the respect of other nationalities. +The numerous revolutionary outbreaks upon the island—so frequent in +the last half century as to be chronic—have all been of the most +insignificant character, compared with the importance of the occasion +and the object in view. These efforts have mostly been made from +without, almost entirely unsupported from within the borders of Cuba, +with the exception of that of 1868. It appears incredible that an +intelligent people, within so short a distance of our Southern coast, +constantly visited by the citizens of a free republic, and having the +example of successful revolt set them by the men of the same race, +both in the North and the South, weighed down by oppression almost +without parallel, should never have aimed an effectual blow at their +oppressors. It would seem that the softness of the unrivaled climate +of those skies, beneath which it is luxury only to exist, has unnerved +this people, and that the effeminate spirit of the original +inhabitants had descended in retribution to the posterity of their +conquerors.</p> + +<p>In closing these brief chapters relating to the early history of the +island of Cuba, and in bringing the record up to our own period, some +natural reflections suggest themselves as to the present condition of +the mother country. We follow with more than passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> interest the +condition of Spain, whose history is so closely interwoven with our +own. From the close of the fifteenth century our paths have run on in +parallel lines, but while we have gone on increasing in power and +wealth, she has sunk in the scale of decadence with a rapidity no less +surprising than has been the speed of our own progress. At the +commencement of the sixteenth century Spain threatened to become the +mistress of the world, as Rome had been before her. She may be said to +have at that period dominated Europe. In art she was in the very +foremost position: Murillo, Velasquez, Ribera, and other famous +painters were her honored sons. In literature she was also +distinguished: both Cervantes and Lope de Vega contributed to her +greatness and lasting fame. While, in discoverers and conquerors, she +sent forth Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. The banners of Castile and +Aragon floated alike on the Pacific and the margin of the Indian +Ocean. Her ships sailed in every sea, and brought home freights of +fabulous value from all the regions of the earth. Her manufacturers +produced the richest silks and velvets; her soil yielded corn and +wine; her warriors were adventurous and brave; her soldiers inherited +the gallantry of the followers of Charles V.; her cities were the +splendid abodes of luxury, refinement, and elegance. She was the court +of Europe, the acknowledged leader of chivalry and of grandeur.</p> + +<p>This is the picture of what Spain was at no remote period of time, but +in her instance we have an example showing us that states are no more +exempt than individuals from the mutability of fate. So was it with +Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, and Rome, though in their case we look far +back into the vista of history to recall the change, whereas in the +instance of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> Spain we are contemporary witnesses. From a first-class +power, how rapidly she has sunk into comparative insignificance! She +has been shorn of her wealthy colonies, one after another, in the East +and in the West, holding with feeble grasp a few inconsiderable +islands only besides this gem of the Antilles, the choicest jewel of +her crown. Extremely poor and deeply indebted, she has managed for +years to extort by means of the most outrageous system of taxation a +large share of her entire revenue from the island of Cuba, her home +population having long since become exhausted by over-burdensome +imposts. Her nobles of to-day are an effeminate, soulless, and +imbecile race, while the common people, with some excellent qualities, +are yet ignorant, cruel, and passionate. The whole country is divided +against itself, the tottering throne being with difficulty upheld. +Even the elements have of late seemed to combine against her, +decimating whole cities of her southern possessions by earthquakes, +and smiting her people with pestilence.</p> + +<p>This simple statement of her present situation is patent to all who +read and observe. It is not an overdrawn picture. In it the moralist +beholds the retributive justice of providence. As Spain in the +plenitude of her power was ambitious, cruel, and perfidious, so has +the measure which she meted out to others been in return accorded to +herself. As with fire and sword she swept the Aztec and the Incas from +Mexico and Peru, so was she at last driven from these genial countries +by their revolted inhabitants. The spoiler has been despoiled, the +victor has been vanquished, and thus has Spain met the just fate +clearly menaced by the Scriptures to those who smite with the sword.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Geographical. — A Remarkable Weed. — Turtle-Hunting. — +Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. — The Gulf Stream. — Deep-Sea +Soundings. — Mountain Range of Cuba. — Curious Geological +Facts. — Subterranean Caverns. — Wild Animals. — The +Rivers of the Island. — Fine Harbors. — Historic Memories +of the Caribbean Sea. — Sentinel of the Gulf. — Importance +of the Position. — Climate. — Hints for Invalids. — +Matanzas. — Execution of a Patriot. — Valley of Yumuri; +Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. +</div> + +<p>Having thus briefly glanced at the historical and political story of +Cuba,—whose very name seems bathed in sunshine and fragrance, yet +bedewed with human tears,—let us now consider its peculiarities of +climate, soil, and population, together with its geographical +characteristics. The form of the island is quite irregular, resembling +the blade of a Turkish scimitar slightly curved back, or that of a +long narrow crescent, presenting its convex side to the north. It +stretches away in this shape from east to west, throwing its western +end into a curve, as if to form a barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of +Mexico, and as if at some ancient period it had formed a part of the +American continent; severed on its north side from the Florida +peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf Stream, and from Yucatan, on its +southwestern point, by a current setting into the Gulf. Two broad +channels are thus formed, by either of which the Mexican Gulf is +entered.</p> + +<p>These channels are nearly of the same width, somewhat +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +exceeding a hundred miles each, the northern passage being a few miles the +broader. The Bahama Banks extend along its northern coast-line about +fifty or sixty miles distant, where commences the group of many small +isles known as the Bahamas, and of which we have already treated. On +her eastern extreme, near Cape Maysi, Cuba is within about fifty miles +of the western shore of Hayti, from which it is separated by the +Windward Passage. The southern shore is washed by the Caribbean Sea, +which is also here and there interspersed with small islands of little +importance. One hundred and fifty miles due south lies the British +island of Jamaica, with a superficial area of over four thousand +square miles. Still further to the eastward, on the other side of +Hayti, lies Porto Rico (like Cuba a Spanish possession), and the two +groups of islands known as the Leeward and Windward isles. These are +of various nationalities, including English, French, and Dutch, thus +completing the entire region familiarly known to us as the West +Indies.</p> + +<p>In approaching the coast from the Windward isles, the observant +traveler will notice the fields of what is called gulf-weed, which +floats upon the surface of the sea. It is a unique genus, found +nowhere except in these tropical waters, and must not be confounded +with the sea-weed encountered by Atlantic steamers off the Banks of +Newfoundland, and about the edges of the Gulf Stream in that region. +This singular and interesting weed propagates itself on the waves, and +there sustains, as on the shore of New Providence, zoöphytes and +mollusks which also abound in these latitudes. The poetical theory +relating to this sargasso, and possibly to the animals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> that cling to +it, is that it marks the site of an Atlantic continent sunk long ages +since, and that, transformed from a rooting to a floating plant, it +wanders round and round as if in search of the rocks upon which it +once grew. The southern shore of Cuba presents much of special +interest to the conchologist in the variety and beauty of the +sea-shells that abound upon its beaches. The water is of an exquisite +color, a brilliant green, very changeable, like liquid opal. Were an +artist truthfully to depict it, he would be called color-mad. Northern +skies are never reflected in waters of such fanciful hues. Some +beautiful specimens of white corals are found here, but they are not a +characteristic of the coast.</p> + +<p>On that portion bordering the Old Bahama Channel, and also opposite +the Isle of Pines, which Columbus named Evangelista,—on this south +shore, large numbers of turtles are taken annually, which produce the +best quality of tortoise-shell. It is strange that the habits of these +creatures down here in the Caribbean Sea should so closely resemble +those of the tiny tortoises described by Thoreau as frequenting Walden +Pond. The female turtle digs the hole in which to deposit her eggs on +the sandy beach, just above the margin of high tide, generally +choosing a moonlight night for the purpose. The hole is often so large +that the turtle will require an hour of industrious labor to dig it to +her entire satisfaction. Observing the strictest silence, the +turtle-hunter steals upon the animal, and with a single motion turns +it upon its back, rendering it utterly helpless, after which it can be +secured at will. Thousands are annually caught in this manner.</p> + +<p>It is a curious fact worth recalling to memory that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> four hundred +years ago, when Columbus first landed upon the island, he found that +the aborigines kept turtle corrals near the beach, amply supplied with +these animals. From them they procured eggs, and also furnished +themselves with the only meat which it was possible to obtain, if we +except that of the little "voiceless dog" which they hunted, and such +birds as they could snare. Probably as many turtles were taken by +those Carib Indians in 1492 as are caught by the fishermen this year +of our Lord, in the same waters, showing how inexhaustible is the +supply of Neptune's kingdom. Modern epicures may not therefore claim +any distinction as to the priority of discovery touching turtle soup +and turtle steaks, both of which were certainly indulged in by the +Caribs in Columbus' time, and probably they were in vogue many +centuries previous.</p> + +<p>One neither departs from nor approaches the Cuban shore without +crossing that marvelous ocean river, the Gulf Stream, with banks and +bottom of cold water, while its body and surface are warm. Its color, +in the region of the gulf where it seems to have its rise, is indigo +blue, so distinct that the eye can follow its line of demarkation +where it joins the common waters of the sea in their prairie-green. +Its surface temperature on the coast of the United States is from 75° +to 80° Fahrenheit. Its current, of a uniform speed of four to five +miles per hour, expends immense power in its course, and moves a body +of water in the latitude of the Carolina coast fully two hundred miles +wide. This aqueous body exceeds in quantity the rivers of the +Mississippi and the Amazon multiplied one thousand times. Its +temperature diminishes very gradually, while it moves thousands of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +leagues, until one branch loses itself in Arctic regions, and the +other breaks on the coast of Europe. It is well known to navigators +that one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its outlet northward from the +Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage, and that here the current +extends to the depth of eight hundred fathoms; the width, however, in +this section is not over ten miles. It will be nothing new to tell the +reader that the sea, especially in its proximity to the continents, +has a similar topographical conformation beneath its surface. The +bottom consists of hills, mountains, and valleys, like the surface of +the earth upon which we live. A practical illustration of the fact is +afforded in the soundings taken by the officers of our Coast Survey in +the Caribbean Sea, where a valley was found giving a water depth of +three thousand fathoms, twenty-five miles south of Cuba. The Cayman +islands, in that neighborhood, are the summit of mountains bordering +this deep valley at the bottom of the sea. It is known to extend over +seven hundred miles, from between Cuba and Jamaica nearly to the head +of the bay of Honduras, with an average breadth of eighty miles. How +suggestive the subject of these submarine Alps! Thus the island of +Grand Cayman, scarcely twenty feet above sea level, is the top of a +mountain twenty thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet above the +bottom of the submarine valley beside which it rises,—an altitude +exceeding that of any mountain on the North American continent. A +little more than five miles, or say twenty-seven thousand feet, is the +greatest depth yet sounded at sea.</p> + +<p>With an extensive coast-line particularly well adapted for the +purpose, smuggling is at all times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> successfully carried on in Cuba, +stimulated by an almost prohibitory tariff. It is well understood that +many of the most prosperous merchants in Havana are secretly engaged +in this business. The blindness of minor officials is easily +purchased. The eastern department of the island is most notorious for +this class of illegal trade. It was through these agencies that the +revolutionists were so well supplied with arms, ammunition, and other +necessities during the eight years of civil war. While we are writing +these lines, the cable brings us news of a fresh landing of +"filibusters" on the shores in this immediate neighborhood.</p> + +<p>Cuba is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and compared with +the others has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory, +being about as large as England proper, without the principality of +Wales. Its greatest length from east to west is very nearly eight +hundred miles; its narrowest part is over twenty miles, and its +average width about forty miles. The circumference of the island is +set down at two thousand miles, and it is supposed to contain +thirty-five thousand square miles. The face of the interior is +undulating, with an average level of three hundred feet above the +surface of the sea. The narrow form of the island, and the chain of +mountains which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a +limited course for its rivers, and consequently most of these in the +rainy season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are +nearly dried up. Those streams which sustain themselves at all seasons +are well stocked with fine fish, and afford to lovers of the piscatory +art admirable sport. Near their mouths some of the rivers, like those +of the opposite coast of Florida, are frequented by crocodiles.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +The chain of mountains running through the centre of the island, more +or less broken in its course, is lofty in the east, but gradually +diminishes in elevation towards the west, until it becomes a series of +gently undulating hills of one or two hundred feet above sea level, +ceasing as a connected range in the vicinity of Matanzas. On the +easterly end this range of mountains approaches the south coast +between Puerto Principe and Trinidad. The country lying between Cape +Cruz, Cape Maysi, and the town of Holguin has the highest elevations; +the most lofty point, Turquino, lately measured, has a height of ten +thousand eight hundred feet. Illustrative of the great revolutions +which the globe has undergone in its several geological epochs, +petrified shells and bivalves are found on the summits of these +highest peaks, surrounded by coral rocks, both of which differ +entirely from those at present existing on the shores of the Antilles. +An immense bowlder was pointed out to us on the summit of La Gran +Piedra, at an elevation of five thousand feet, of totally different +composition from any other rocks on the island. The great mystery is +how such a mass of solid stone could have got there. Most of these +mountains are thickly wooded, some of them to their very tops, and +appear to be in a perpetual state of verdure. There are mahogany trees +in these hills reported to be of almost fabulous dimensions, besides +other trees of great age. Some idea of the excellence of the timber +grown in Cuba may be had from the fact that over one hundred Spanish +ships of war—some of which were of the largest size, mounting a +hundred and twenty guns—have been built from native stock at the port +of Havana.</p> + +<p>Copper ore is found in abundance, as well as silver<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> and iron, in the +mountains. Snow is never known to fall even in these elevated +districts, and of course in no other part of the island. In the +interior, the extreme heat of the low-lying sea-coast and cities is +not experienced, and the yellow fever is unknown. Low, level swampy +land is found only on the southern coast, where there are some wild +deer, wild cats and dogs, which are hunted; the former introduced into +Cuba half a century since, the two latter descended from domestic +animals. Large tracts of undulating country are without trees, +affording good pasturage. In some of the mountains are extensive +caves, not unlike the caves of Bellamar near the city of Matanzas, in +which are still to be found the bones of an unknown race, while +several of these elevations are so precipitous as to be nearly +inaccessible.</p> + +<p>Travelers who have visited the Bay of Biscay, on the French and +Spanish shore near Biarritz, have observed how the rocks have been +worn into caverns, arches, alcoves, and honeycombed formations by the +action of the waters for centuries. Just so the soft limestone strata +beneath the surface of Cuba, in many portions of the island, have been +hollowed out, tunneled, and formed into caves, by the tremendous +downpour and wash of tropical rains. So the action of the sea has +created a cave under Moro Castle, at the mouth of the harbor of +Havana, as well as under that other Moro which stands guard over the +entrance of Santiago de Cuba. The existence of these subterranean +caverns has often led to serious accidents. In some instances +buildings which were by chance erected just over them have suddenly +been swallowed up as though by an earthquake.</p> + +<p>Many of the rivers are navigable for short distances. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>The longest is +the Cauto, in the eastern department, which, rising in the Sierra del +Cobre, passes between Holguin and Jiguani, and empties on the south +coast a little north of Manzanillo. It is navigable for half its +length, between fifty and sixty leagues. The river Ay has falls in its +course two hundred feet high, and a natural bridge spanning it, nearly +as remarkable as that of Virginia. The Sagua le Grande is navigable +for five leagues, and the same may be said of the river Sasa. The +Agabama, emptying on the south coast near Trinidad, is also partially +navigable. There are two hundred and sixty rivers in all, independent +of rivulets and torrents. So abundantly is the island supplied with +fresh-water springs, especially on the south side, that the pure +liquid filters through the fissures of the stratified rock in such +quantities as to form, by hydrostatic pressure, springs in the sea +itself some distance from the shore. The sulphurous and thermal +springs of San Diego are the resort of numerous invalids annually, who +come hither from Europe and America.</p> + +<p>The coast and harbors of Cuba are carefully marked for the purpose of +navigation by eighteen well-placed lighthouses, visible from fifteen +to twenty miles at sea, according to the importance of the surrounding +points. That which stands in Moro Castle, on the south side of the +harbor's entrance at Havana, is eighty feet in height and about a +hundred and fifty from the level of the sea. It is visible in clear +weather twenty miles from shore. In honor of a former Governor-General +this lighthouse bears the inscription "O'Donnell, 1844," in mammoth +letters. So plain and safe is the entrance to this harbor, which in +the narrowest part is some hundred yards wide,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> that a pilot is hardly +necessary, though foreign vessels generally take one. There is little +or no tide on this part of the coast, the variations never exceeding +two feet. No regular ebb and flow is therefore observable, but when +the land breeze rises there is a very slight tide-way setting out of +the harbor. No country in the world of the size of this island has so +many large and fine harbors. They number twenty-nine on its northern +side and twenty-eight on the southern. The well-defined water-line +along the yellow, rusty rocks of the coast shows the mark of ages, and +also that there has been no upheaval since the land took its present +shape. Where there are no regular harbors the shore is indented with +numerous deep channels forming inlets, safe only for native boatmen, +as the winding course of the blue waters covers myriads of sunken +rocks. On the southern side, opposite the Isle of Pines, there are +some beautiful reaches of beach, over which the gentle surf rolls +continuously with a murmur so soft as to seem like the whispered +secrets of the sea. Yet what frightful historic memories brood over +these deep waters of the Archipelago, where for nearly two centuries +floated and fought the ships of sea-robbers of every nationality, and +where the cunning but guilty slave-clippers, fresh from the coast of +Africa, loaded with kidnapped men and women, made their harbor! With +all their dreamy beauty, the tropics are full of sadness, both in +their past and present history.</p> + +<p>The occasional hurricanes, which prove so disastrous to the Bahamas +and other isles in the immediate vicinity of Cuba, rarely extend their +influence to its shores, but the bursts of fury which these usually +tranquil seas sometimes indulge in are not excelled in violence in the +worst typhoon regions.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +The nearest port of the island to this continent is Matanzas, lying +due south from Cape Sable, Florida, a distance of a hundred and thirty +miles. Havana is located some sixty miles west of Matanzas, and it is +here that the island divides the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, whose +coast-line, measuring six thousand miles, finds the outlet of its +commerce along the shore of Cuba, almost within range of the guns in +Moro Castle. Lying thus at our very door as it were, this island +stands like a sentinel, guarding the approaches of the Gulf of Mexico, +whose waters wash the shores of five of the United States, and by +virtue of the same position barring the entrance of the great river +which drains half the continent of North America. Nor does the +importance of the situation end here. Cuba keeps watch and ward over +our communication with California by way of the isthmus. The peculiar +formation of the southeastern shore of this continent, and the +prevalence of the trade-winds, with the oceanic current from east to +west, make the ocean passage skirting the shore of Cuba the natural +outlet for the commerce also of Venezuela, New Granada, Costa Rica, +and Nicaragua. It is not surprising, therefore, when we realize the +commanding position of the island, that so much of interest attaches +to its ultimate destiny.</p> + +<p>Cuba seems formed to become the very button on Fortune's cap. No +wonder that the Abbé Raynal pronounced it to be the boulevard of the +New World, or that the Spanish historian called it the fairest emerald +in the crown of Ferdinand and Isabella. Under any other government in +Christendom than that of Spain, the island would to-day have been one +vast smiling garden, for its natural advantages are absolutely +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +unequaled. To oppress and rob its inhabitants has been the unvarying +policy of the home government from first to last. The undisguised +system has been to extort from them every farthing possible in the way +of taxes. No legitimate business could sustain itself against the +enormous exactions of the Spanish rule. Coffee and cotton planting +have been absolutely driven out of the island by the taxes imposed +upon their production. In short, the mother country has carried her +system of oppression and despotism in Cuba to the utmost stretch of +human audacity.</p> + +<p>Probably no place has a finer or more desirable climate than has the +main portion of Cuba, with the clear atmosphere of the low latitudes, +no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and a season of endless summer. We +do not wonder that the Northern invalid turns instinctively towards so +inviting a clime, where Nature in all her moods is so regal. The +appearance of the sky at night is far brighter and more beautiful than +at the North. The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency +with the departure of the day. Sunset is remarkable for its soft +mellow beauty, all too brief to a New England eye accustomed to the +lingering brilliancy of our twilights. For more than half a century +the island has been the resort of invalids from colder climes in +search of health, especially those laboring under pulmonary +affections. Such have rarely failed to realize more or less benefit +from the mild and equable temperature. The climate so uniformly soft +and soothing, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so +delicious and abundant, give it a character akin to fairyland. Here +Nature seems ever in a tender, loving mood, the very opposite of her +cold temperament at the North.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +The best time to visit the island, for those who do so in search of +health, is from the beginning of January to the middle of May. It is +imprudent to remain in the cities of Cuba later than the latter +period, as the fever season then commences. The invalid will find that +very many physical comforts, and some things deemed imperative at +home, must be sacrificed here as quite unattainable: such, for +instance, as good beds, strict cleanliness, good milk, and sweet +butter. The climatic advantages must suffice for such deprivations. +During the greater portion of the year it is dry and hot, the rainy +season commencing in June and ending in September. The northeast +trade-winds blow over the island from March to October, and though it +is especially important to avoid all draughts in the tropics, still +one can always find a sufficiently cool and comfortable temperature +somewhere, when the trade-wind prevails. To persons in the early +stages of consumption this region holds forth great promise of relief; +the author can bear witness of remarkable benefit having been realized +in many instances. At the period of the year when New England invalids +most require to avoid the rigors of the prevailing east winds, namely, +in February, March, April, and early May, the island of Cuba is in the +glory of high summer, and enjoying the healthiest period of its annual +returns. When consumption originates in the island,—as was also found +to be the case at Nassau,—it runs its course to a fatal end with such +rapidity that the natives consider it to be a contagious disease. +Early in May the unacclimated would do well to leave, taking passage +up the Gulf to New Orleans, or across the Gulf Stream, which here runs +thirty-two miles in width,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> to Key West, Florida, thence by boat to +Tampa Bay, and by railroad to Sanford, and by the St. John's River to +St. Augustine, enjoying a brief stay at the latter places, where every +requisite convenience can be enjoyed. Jacksonville should not be +missed, and by coming north thus slowly and pleasantly, the change of +climate is not realized, and June weather will greet the returning +traveler with genial warmth.</p> + +<p>Owing to the proximity of the +northwestern part of Cuba to our own continent, the climate is +somewhat variable, and at a height of five hundred feet above the +level of the sea, ice is sometimes, though rarely formed; but, as has +already been said in these notes, snow never falls upon the island. At +long intervals Cuba has been visited by brief hailstorms, and persons +who tell you this will add, "but we never have known it in our day." +In the cities and near the swamps, the yellow fever, that scourge of +all hot climates, prevails from the middle of June to the last of +October; but in the interior of the island, where the visitor is at a +wholesome distance from humidity and stagnant water, it is no more +unhealthy than our own cities in summer. It is doubtful if Havana, +even in the fever season, is any more unhealthy than New Orleans at +the same period of the year. Fevers of different degrees of malignity +prevail from May to November, and occasionally throughout the year. +Among these the yellow fever is the most dangerous, and sooner or +later all resident foreigners seem to suffer from it, as a sort of +acclimation; once experienced, however, one is seldom attacked a +second time. In the ports yellow fever is often induced by +carelessness and exposure; excesses on the part of foreign sailors are +frequently the cause of its fatal attack<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> upon them. The thermometer +is never known to rise so high in Havana or Santiago, the opposite +extremes of the island, as it does sometimes in New York and Boston. +The average temperature is recorded as being 77°, maximum 89°, minimum +50° Fahrenheit. We have been thus elaborate as regards this matter +because it is of such general interest to all invalids who annually +seek an equable clime.</p> + +<p>The principal cities are Havana, with a population of nearly three +hundred thousand; Matanzas, with fifty thousand; Puerto Principe, +thirty thousand; Cienfuegos, twenty-five thousand; Trinidad, fourteen +thousand; San Salvador, ten thousand; Manzanillo, Cardenas, Nuevitas, +Sagua la Grande, and Mariel. Among its largest and finest harbors +those of Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Nipe, and Nuevitas are the best; +the bay of Matanzas is also large, but shallow. This city stands next +to Havana in population, but not in commercial importance. It is said +to be healthier than the capital, but it lacks those attractions of +life and gayety which are essential even to invalids to render them +contented. The streets are wide, and many of the Moorish +characteristics of Spanish cities, so common in both this island and +the European peninsula, are wanting here. It was built much later and +more under foreign direction than Havana. The secret of the superior +health of Matanzas over that of the capital is undoubtedly because of +its better drainage and general cleanliness.</p> + +<p>Located in one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city +extends up the picturesque and verdant hills by which the bay is +surrounded, in the form of an amphitheatre. The fortifications are of +rather a meagre character, and could not withstand a well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> organized +attack for half an hour. Modern improvements in the construction of +heavy guns and projectiles have rendered all the forts in Cuba of no +importance as a means of defense against a first-class invading fleet. +The custom house is the most prominent building which strikes the eye +on approaching the city by water; though built of stone, it is only +one story in height, and was erected at the commencement of the +present century. On the heights above the city the inhabitants have +planted their country seats, from whence the view of the widespreading +bay forms a delightful picture. The climate is thought to be +especially adapted for the cure of throat and lung diseases, and the +city is annually resorted to by those seeking relief from these +troubles, as also by those afflicted with neuralgia and rheumatism. +The first land made by southern-bound steamers from Boston and New +York is the Monte del Pan, or Bread Mountain, forming a lofty +background for the city. There are three large churches in Matanzas, a +well appointed and spacious theatre, a bull-ring, and cock-pits. +Statistics show that the custom-house receipts of the port reach about +two million dollars annually. There are two railroads connecting the +city with Havana, one of which runs also to the interior southeasterly +to Cienfuegos, Sagua, and Villa Clara, intersecting a rich +sugar-producing country, from whence it brings a large amount of +freight to the coast for shipment. On these Cuban roads one rides in +American-built cars, drawn by American engines, and often run by +American engineers. Railroads were in use in Cuba before they were +adopted in any other Spanish-speaking country, and there are now +nearly a thousand miles in active operation on the island.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +Matanzas is bounded on the north by the river Yumuri, and on the south +by that of San Juan. The town is built upon the site of a former +Indian village, known to the early discoverers by the name of Yucayo. +It is upon the whole a well-built city, containing some small public +squares and a pretty Plaza de Armas, like that of Havana, ornamented +with choice trees and flowers, with a statue of Ferdinand VII. in its +centre. It was in this square that Gabriel Concepcion de la Valdez, a +mulatto poet and patriot of Cuba, was shot by the soldiers of the +line. He was accused of complicity with the slave insurrection of +1844, when the blacks attempted to gain their freedom. At the time of +his execution the first volley fired by the troops failed to touch a +vital spot, and the brave victim, bleeding from many wounds, still +stood erect, facing his executioners. He then pointed to his heart, +and said in a calm clear voice, "Aim here!" The order was at once +obeyed, and the second volley sent the heroic man to that haven where +there is no distinction as to color. This martyr, of whom +comparatively little is known to the public, possessed all the true +elements of a poet. Many of his productions have been preserved in +print, and some were translated and republished in England a few years +since.</p> + +<p>The Plaza of Matanzas is small, smaller even than that of Cienfuegos, +but it presents within its circumscribed space a great variety of +tropical trees and flowers, over which stand, sentinel-like, a few +royal palms with their ashen-gray stems and concentric rings. The star +of Bethlehem, fifteen feet high, was here seen full of lovely scarlet +blossoms; the southern jasmine, yellow as gold, was in its glory; +mignonette, grown to a graceful tree of twenty feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> in height, was +fragrant and full of blossoms, close beside the delicate vinca, decked +in white and red. Some broad-leaved bananas were thriving in the +Plaza, while creeping all over that tree and shrub combined, the +Spanish bayonet, were pink, purple, and white morning-glories, at once +so familiar and suggestive. Opposite the Plaza are several government +offices, and two or three very large, fine club-houses, remarkable for +the excellence of their appointments and the spaciousness of the +public rooms. Club life prevails in Matanzas, as usual at the expense +of domestic life, just as it does in Havana, being very much like +London in this respect. It is forbidden to discuss politics in these +clubs, the hours being occupied mostly over games of chance, such as +cards, dominoes, chess, and checkers. Gambling is as natural and +national in Cuba as in China. Many Chinese are seen about the streets +and stores of Matanzas, as, indeed, all over the island—poor fellows +who have survived their apprenticeship and are now free. They are +peaceful, do not drink spirits, work from morning until night, never +meddle with politics, and live on one half they can earn, so as to +save enough to return to their beloved native land. You may persuade +him to assent to any form of religion as a temporary duty, but John is +a heathen at heart, and a heathen he will die.</p> + +<p>The famous afternoon drive of Matanzas was formerly the San Carlos +Paseo. It has fine possibilities, and is lined and beautifully +ornamented with thrifty Indian laurels. It overlooks the spacious +harbor and outer bay, but is now utterly neglected and abandoned; even +the roadway is green with vegetation and gullied with deep hollows. It +is the coolest place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> in the city at the evening hour, but the people +have become so poor that there are hardly a dozen private vehicles +owned in the city, and, consequently, its famous drive is deserted. +Matanzas, like all the cities of Cuba, is under the shadow of +depressed business, the evidences of which meet one on all hands.</p> + +<p>The two objects of special interest to strangers who visit Matanzas +are, first, the valley of the Yumuri, which may be described briefly +as a narrow gorge four miles long, through which flows the river of +the same name. The view of this lovely valley will recall, to any one +who has visited Spain, the Vega of Granada. There are several +positions from which to obtain a good view of the valley, but that +enjoyed from the Chapel of Monserrate, on the hill just back of the +town, is nearest, and was most satisfactory to us. The view includes a +valley, peaceful, tropical, and verdant, embracing plantations, +groves, and farms, in the midst of which the river glides like a +silver thread through the verdure, and empties into the Bay of +Matanzas. The universal belief is that this vale was once a vast, deep +lake, walled across the present seaward opening of the valley, from +whence a fall may have existed as a natural overflow. Some fearful +convulsion of nature rent this bowl and precipitated the lake into the +ocean, leaving only the river's course.</p> + +<p>The second object of note which the visitor will not willingly miss is +a sight of the famous caves of Bellamar, situated about two leagues +from the city proper. It is customary to make this trip in a volante, +and it is quite the thing to ride, at least once, in this unique +vehicle, the only article ever invented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> in Cuba. The road to the +caves is extremely rough, and this vehicle is best adapted to pass +over the irregularities. If there are only gentlemen of the party, go +on horseback. On entering the caves the visitor should throw off any +extra clothing that can conveniently be left behind, as it is very +warm within, and on coming out, unless one has an extra garment to put +on, too great a change of temperature will be realized. These singular +caves lead three hundred feet and more beneath the surface, and +present beauties to the eye incident to all such subterranean +formations. They were discovered accidentally, a few years since, by +some stone quarriers, who, on opening into them, imagined they had +broken the crust of the earth. In driving to the caves the Bay Street +road, through the city, should be taken, which forms one of the finest +thoroughfares of any Cuban town. The architecture of the dwellings is +that of combined Italian, Grecian, and Moorish, ornamented with +colonnades and verandas of stone and iron. Fine as the façades of +these houses are,—none above one story in height,—they present a +faded and forlorn aspect, a sort of dead-and-alive appearance, yet in +accordance with life and business, not only in Matanzas, but all over +the island. This one boulevard of Matanzas ends by the shore of the +bay, where the fine marine view will cause you to forget all other +impressions for the moment, but you will not tarry here. Turning +eastward you soon strike the road to the caves, and <i>such</i> a road—it +is like the bed of a dry mountain torrent.</p> + +<p>Persons visiting Matanzas must make up their minds to be content with +indifferent hotel accommodations. In fact there are no really good +hotels in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> Cuba; those which exist are poor and expensive. On the +inland routes away from the cities there are none, and the humble +hostelries, or posadas, as they are called, are so indifferent in +point of comforts as not to deserve the name of inns. As a rule, +invalids rarely go beyond the cities to remain over night. Brief and +pleasant sojourns may be made at Havana, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, and +Sagua la Grande, from whence excursions can be made by rail or +otherwise and return on the same day. Let us qualify these remarks, as +applied to the Hotel Louvre at Matanzas. There was a degree of +picturesqueness about this establishment which was not without its +attraction, and it was certainly the most cleanly public house in +which we found a temporary home while on the island. Its rooms +surrounded a bright clean court, or patio, planted with creeping +vines, palmettos, bananas, and some fragrant flowering shrubs. The +dining-room is virtually out of doors, being open on all sides, and +opposite the hotel is a small plaza with tropical trees, backed by an +old, musty church, whose bell had the true Spanish trick of giving +tongue at most inopportune moments. The rooms of the Louvre are quite +circumscribed as to space, and the partitions separating the +apartments do not reach to the ceiling, so that privacy, night or day, +is out of the question. The floors are all tiled in white marble, and +the attendance is courteous. One does not look for a choice bill of +fare in Cuba, and therefore will not be disappointed on that score. +You will be charged Fifth Avenue prices, however, if you do not get +Fifth Avenue accommodations. If you have learned in your travels to +observe closely, to study men as well as localities, to enjoy Nature in her +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +ever-varying moods, and to delight in luxurious fruits, +flowers, and vegetation, you will find quite enough to occupy and +amuse the mind, and make you forget altogether the grosser senses of +appetite.</p> + +<p>Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of Cuba, and +is located well inland. The trade of the place, from the want of water +carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the number of +its inhabitants, which aggregates nearly thirty-one thousand. The +product of the neighborhood, to find means of export, must first make +its way twelve and a half leagues to Nuevitas, from whence, in return, +it receives its foreign supplies. The two places are now, however, +connected by a railroad. Puerto Principe is about one hundred and +fifty leagues from Havana. Its original location, as founded by +Velasquez in 1514, was at Nuevitas, but the inhabitants, when the +place was feeble in numbers, were forced to remove from the coast to +avoid the fierce incursions of the pirates, as did the people of +Trinidad, who removed from the harbor of Casilda.</p> + +<p>Cardenas is situated a hundred and twenty miles from Havana on the +north coast, and is the youngest town of note in Cuba, having been +founded so late as 1827. It has a population of between four and five +thousand. Its prosperity is mostly owing to the great fertility of the +land by which it is surrounded. It is called the American city, +because of the large number of Americans doing business here, and also +because the English language is so universally spoken by the people +who reside in the place. The Plaza contains an excellent marble statue +of Columbus, and is tastefully ornamented with tropical verdure. In +the harbor of Cardenas is seen one of those curious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> springs of fresh +water which bubble up beneath the salt sea. The city is the centre of +a sugar-producing district, and a considerable portion of the sugar +crop of the vicinity of Havana is also shipped from this port to +America. It is connected with both the metropolis and Matanzas by +rail, and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary +time for doing so.</p> + +<p>Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island, +are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of +it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable +timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might, +with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone, +which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of +the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture +are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never +be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have +not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are +passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the +Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the +purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well +as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything +practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +City of Havana. — First Impressions. — The Harbor. — +Institutions. — Lack of Educational Facilities. — Cuban +Women. — Street Etiquette. — Architecture. — Domestic +Arrangements. — Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. — +Public Vehicles. — Uncleanliness of the Streets. — Spanish +or African! — The Church Bells. — Home-Keeping Habits of +Ladies. — Their Patriotism. — Personal Characteristics. — +Low Ebb of Social Life. — Priestcraft. — Female Virtue. — +Domestic Ties. — A Festive Population. — Cosmetics. — Sea-Bathing. +</div> + +<p>Havana is a thoroughly representative city,—Cuban and nothing else. +Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being +the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been +reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with +its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall +sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the +harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the +Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city +side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind +the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of +Spain,—the banner of blood and gold. So many and strong +fortifications show how important the home government regard the +place.</p> + +<p>The harbor or bay is shaped like one's outspread hand, with the wrist +for an entrance, and is populous with the ships of all nations. It +presents at all times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> a scene of great maritime activity. Besides the +national ships of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers +from Europe and America are coming and going daily, also coasting +steamers from the eastern and southern shores of the island, added to +regular lines for Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea. The +large ferry steamers plying constantly between the city and the Regla +shore, the fleet of little sailing boats, foreign yachts, and +rowboats, glancing in the burning sunlight, create a scene of great +maritime interest.</p> + +<p>The city presents a large extent of public buildings, cathedrals, +antique and venerable churches. It has been declared in its prosperity +to be the richest place for its number of square miles in the world, +but this cannot be said of it at the present time. There is nothing +grand in its appearance as one enters the harbor and comes to anchor, +though Baron Humboldt pronounced it the gayest and most picturesque +sight in America. Its multitude of churches, domes, and steeples are +not architecturally remarkable, and are dominated by the colossal +prison near the shore. This immense quadrangular edifice flanks the +Punta, and is designed to contain five thousand prisoners at a time. +The low hills which make up the distant background are not +sufficiently high to add much to the general effect. The few palm +trees which catch the eye here and there give an Oriental aspect to +the scene, quite in harmony with the atmospheric tone of intense +sunshine. Unlike Santiago or Matanzas, neither the city nor its +immediate environs is elevated, so that the whole impression is that +of flatness, requiring some strength of background to form a complete +picture. The martial appearance of the Moro and the Cabanas, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +bristling with cannon, is the most vivid effect of the scene, taken as +a whole. It might be a portion of continental Spain broken away from +European moorings, and floated hither to find anchorage in the +Caribbean Sea. One is also reminded of Malta, in the farther +Mediterranean, and yet the city of Valetta, bright, sunny, and +elevated, is quite unlike Havana, though Fortress St. Angelo overlooks +and guards the place as the Moro does this tropical harbor, and Cuba +is the Italy of America.</p> + +<p>The waters of the harbor, admittedly one of the finest in the world, +are most of the time extremely dirty. Many years ago a canal was +commenced which was designed to create a flowage calculated to keep +the harbor clear of the constantly accumulating filth, but it was +never finished, and there remains an evidence of Spanish inefficiency, +while the harbor continues to be a vast cesspool. It would be supposed +that in a fever-haunted region, great attention would be bestowed upon +the matter of drainage, but this is not the case in Havana, or other +cities of the island. Most of the effort made in this direction is +surface drainage, the liquid thus exposed quickly evaporating in the +hot sunshine, or being partially absorbed by the soil over which it +passes.</p> + +<p>Havana contains numerous institutions of learning: a Royal University, +founded in 1733, a medical and law school, and chairs of all the +natural sciences. In spite of their liberal purposes and capabilities, +however, there is a blight hanging over them. Pupils enlist cautiously +and reluctantly. Among other schools there is a Royal Seminary for +girls, scarcely more than a name, a free school of sculpture and +painting, and a mercantile school, with a few private institutions of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +learning. There is a fairly good museum of natural history, and just +outside the city a botanical garden. Still the means of education are +very limited in Cuba, an evidence of which is the fact that so many of +her youth of both sexes are sent to this country for educational +purposes. An order was at one time issued by the government +prohibiting this, but its arbitrary nature was so very outrageous, +even for a Spanish government, that it was permitted to become a dead +letter. What are called free schools, as we use the term, are not +known in the island; the facilities for obtaining even the simplest +education are very poor. Boys and girls, so far as any attempt is made +to educate them, are taught separately, and really under the eye of +the Church. Priests and nuns are the agents, the former notoriously +making a cloak of their profession for vile and selfish purposes. If +we speak decidedly upon this subject, yet we do so with less emphasis +than do the Cubans. The girls are taught embroidery and etiquette, +considered to be the chief and about the only things necessary for +them to know. These young girls are women at the age of thirteen or +fourteen, and frequently mothers of families before they are twenty. +Of course they fade early. In domestic life the husband is literally +lord and master, the wife, ostensibly at least, is all obedience. +There is no woman's rights association on the island, nor even a +Dorcas society. While young and unmarried, the ladies are strict +adherents to all the conventionalities of Spanish etiquette, which is +of the most exacting character, but after marriage the sex is perhaps +as French as the Parisians, and as gay as the Viennese, under the +stimulus of fast and fashionable society.</p> + +<p>The reason of the edict issued by the government<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> forbidding parents +to send their children to this country for educational purposes was +obvious. The young Cubans during their residence here imbibed liberal +ideas as to our republican form of government, which they freely +promulgated and advocated on their return to their native island. Even +those who had been educated in France or England, and they were +numerous, readily sympathized with the pupils returned from America, +and became a dangerous element. Long before the first Lopez +expedition, these sons of planters and rich merchants had formed +themselves into a secret society, with the avowed purpose of freeing +Cuba sooner or later from the Spanish yoke.</p> + +<p>The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel, +after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall, +though the population has long since extended its dwellings and +business structures far into what was, half a century since, the +suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and +decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved +or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of +Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental +Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are +no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and +in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides +in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of +respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless +she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit, +etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes +seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a +portable seat, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble +floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette +says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle, +and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule.</p> + +<p>The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving +them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone +so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into +suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the +atmosphere. The façades of the town houses are nearly always covered +with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue, +harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will +strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system +observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy +as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon +the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors +give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the +broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two +full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad +verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house, +some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors +are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'être; namely, to absorb +the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of +the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of +vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object +stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities +which will strike the stranger.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open +square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is +attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room, +chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family +vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common +by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second +story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family +chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends +round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems, +it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with +it.</p> + +<p>With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in +far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to look about for the +Alhambra. An air of rude grandeur reigns over these houses, the +architecture being Gothic and Saracenic. In the more ancient portions +of the town little picturesque balconies of iron or wood jut out from +the second-story windows, where the houses rise to the dignity of two +stories. From these balconies hang little naked children, like small +performers upon the trapeze, until the passer-by fears for their +lives. The travel in the narrow streets is regulated by law, and so +divided that only certain ones are used for vehicles going north, and +others for those traveling south. Thus, vehicles bound into the city +from the Paseo go by the way of Obispo Street, but must return by +O'Riley Street, so that no two ever meet in these narrow +thoroughfares,—a plan which might be advantageously adopted +elsewhere.</p> + +<p>The rooms of the houses are lofty and the floors<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> stuccoed or tiled in +marble, while the walls and ceilings are frequently ornamented in +fresco, the excellence of the workmanship varying in accordance with +the owner's means. The most striking peculiarity of the town-house in +Cuba is the precaution taken to render it safe against sudden attack. +Every man's house is literally his castle here, each accessible window +being secured with stout iron bars, reaching from the top to the +bottom, while bullet-proof doors bar the entrance,—the whole +seriously suggestive of jails and lunatic asylums. No carpets are used +even in the parlors, though a long rug is sometimes placed between the +inevitable double row of rocking-chairs. The best floors are laid in +white marble and jasper. The great heat of the climate renders even +wooden floors quite insupportable. The visitor is apt to find his bed +rather unsatisfactory, it being formed by stretching a coarse canvas +upon a framework, with an upper and under sheet. Mattresses are not +used by the natives, who reject them as being too warm to sleep upon, +but the liberality evinced in the shape of mosquito netting is as +commendable as it is necessary.</p> + +<p>The public vehicle called a victoria is a sort of four-wheeled calash, +and it has entirely superseded the volante for city use. There are +thousands of them about the town, forming a collection of wretchedly +wornout carriages, drawn by horses in a like condition. The drivers +occupy an elevated seat, and are composed equally of whites and +negroes. The charge for a passage from point to point within the city +is forty cents in Cuban paper money, equal to sixteen cents of our +currency; three times that sum is charged if engaged for the hour. The +streets are in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> a very bad condition and sadly need repairing. The +roads leading out to the suburbs in every direction are full of deep +holes, and are badly gullied by the heavy rains. The streets, even +about the paseos, are so impregnated with filth, here and there, as to +be sickening to the senses of the passer-by. Once in three or four +weeks somebody is awakened to the exigency of the situation, and a +gang of men is put to work to cleanse the principal thoroughfares, but +this serves only a temporary purpose. We were told that the reason for +this neglect was that no one was regularly paid for work; even the +police had not received any pay for seven months, and many refused to +serve longer. The soldiery had not been paid their small stipend for +nearly a year, but enlisted men sent out from Spain, forming the army, +are more easily kept together and more amenable to discipline than any +civil body of officials could be. "With everybody and everything so +enormously taxed," we ventured to suggest to our informants, "there +should be no lack of pecuniary means wherewith to carry on all +departments of the government. Pray what becomes of all this money?" +The reply was, "Who can say?" with a significant shrug of the +shoulders. With all the exactions of the officials, and with the +collection of nearly thirty millions of dollars annually, but a moiety +finds its way into the national treasury. Peculation is reduced to a +science, and is practiced from the highest to the lowest official sent +out by the home government. "Spain has squeezed the orange nearly +dry," said a distinguished Cuban to us in Matanzas, "and a collapse is +inevitable. We are anxiously waiting to see it come; any change would +be for the better. We were long threatened<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> with a war of races, if we +did not sustain Spanish rule in the island. That is, if we were not +loyal to the Madrid authorities, the slaves should be freed to prey +upon us. Blood would flow like water. The incendiary torch would be +placed in the hands of the negroes, and they should be incited to +burn, steal, and ravish! Cuba should be Spanish or African. There was +a time when this threat had great force, and its execution was indeed +to be dreaded; but that time is past, and no such fear now exists. The +slaves are being gradually freed, and are amalgamating with the rest +of the populace. The slow liberation of the blacks has accustomed them +to freedom, and any organized outrage from that source has ceased to +be feared."</p> + +<p>Why all the bells in Havana should be rung furiously and continuously +every morning about daylight, one cannot exactly understand. There +does not seem to be any concert of action in this awful conspiracy +against sleep; but the tumult thus brought about would certainly seem +to be sufficient to "wake the isle from its propriety." From every +square with its church, and every church with its towers, this +brazen-tongued clamor is relentlessly poured forth. In most Christian +lands one good bell is all-sufficient for a church steeple, but here +they have them in the plural, and all striving to excel each other at +the same moment. Of course no one is able to sleep amid such an +outburst of noise, or within the radius of a league. Bells and +mosquitoes are two of the prevailing nuisances of this thrice-sunny +city. Nor must we forget to add to these aggravations the ceaseless, +triumphant crowing of the game-cocks, the noisiest and most boastful +of birds, large numbers of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> which are kept by the citizens purely for +gambling purposes in the cock-pit. Besides these "professional" birds, +every nook and corner is filled with fowls kept for brooding purposes, +each bird family with its crower.</p> + +<p>We have said that the Cuban ladies rarely stir abroad except in a +vehicle, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are certainly +good housekeepers in this respect. While our ladies are busy sweeping +the city sidewalks with their trailing dresses, these wisely leave +that business to the gangs of criminals detailed from prison to fill +that office, with their limbs chained and a heavy ball attached to +preserve their equilibrium,—though we should qualify this remark by +saying that these condemned men, once so common upon the streets and +highways, were not seen during our late visit to Havana. It is, +perhaps, owing to the home-keeping habits of the ladies that the feet +of the Cuban señoritas are such marvels of smallness and delicacy, +seemingly made rather for ornament than for use. You catch a glimpse +of them as they step into their victorias, and perceive that they are +daintily shod in French slippers, the soles of which are scarcely more +substantial than brown paper. Their feet are made for ornament and for +dancing. Though they possess a roundness of form that leaves nothing +to be desired in symmetry of figure, still they are light as a +sylph,—so buoyant, clad in muslin and lace, that it would seem as if +a breeze might waft them away like a summer cloud. Passionately fond +of dancing, they tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their worship +of Terpsichore, stimulated by those Cuban airs which are at once so +sweet and so brilliant.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +There is a striking and endearing charm about the Cuban ladies, their +every motion being replete with a native grace. Every limb is elastic +and supple. Their voices are sweet and low, while the subdued tone of +their complexions is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black +eyes, that alternately swim in melting lustre, and sparkle in +expressive glances. If their comeliness matures, like the fruits of +their native clime, early and rapidly, it is sad to know that it also +fades prematurely. One looks in vain for that serene loveliness +combined with age which so frequently challenges our admiration at the +North. Their costume is never ostentatious, though often costly, and +sometimes a little too mixed or variegated when seen in public. At +home, however, nothing of this sort is observed. There the dress is +usually composed of the most delicate muslin, the finest linen, and +richest silks. We must admit that one rarely sees elsewhere such +contrasts in colors upon the person of the fair sex as are at times +encountered upon the Paseo. It would drive a French modiste wild to +see the proprieties so outraged. It requires all the proverbial beauty +of these señoras and señoritas to carry off respectably such +combinations as scarlet and yellow, blue and purple, orange and green; +but they do it by sheer force of their beautiful eyes and finely +rounded figures. It must be acknowledged that the element of native +refinement is too often wanting, and that the whole exhibition of the +sex is just a little prononcée. They have no intellectual resort, but +lead a life of decided ease and pleasure much too closely bordering +upon the sensuous, their forced idleness being in itself an incentive +to immorality and intrigue. The indifferent <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>work they perform is +light and simple; a little sewing and embroidery, followed by the +siesta, divides the hours of the day. Those who can afford to keep +their victorias wait until nearly sunset for a drive, and then go to +respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the caballeros on the +paseos; afterwards to the Parque de Isabella II., to listen to the +military band, and then, perhaps, to join in the mazy dance. That +these ladies are capable of deep feeling and practical sympathy on +such occasions as would naturally draw these qualities forth, we know +by experience. When the patriot forces were poorly armed, with but +scant material, and ammunition was short, these fair patriots gave +freely of their most valuable jewels as a contribution to the cause of +liberty.</p> + +<p>A sad instance illustrative of this fact was told us by a resident of +Havana. The young ladies and matrons of a certain circle in the city, +at the commencement of the year 1872, had put their diamonds and +precious stones together to realize money for forwarding supplies to +the insurgents under Cespedes, who was then operating in the vicinity +of Santiago. The jewels were secretly intrusted to a brother of one of +the ladies, a young man who had just reached the age of twenty-two. +His part of the business was the most difficult to perform, but he +finally succeeded in realizing over four thousand dollars in gold for +the gems intrusted to him. Fortunately the money was at once forwarded +to the patriot leader through a safe and reliable channel. Hardly had +the business been accomplished to the satisfaction of all concerned +when the young Cuban was secretly denounced to the Governor-General as +a suspected person. The settings and jewels had all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> been disposed of +so as to be beyond recognition, and it is not known to this day how +the brother's complicity with his sisters and their friends was +divulged, but presumedly it was through the Jew pawnbrokers. The +brother was arrested and thrown into Moro Castle, where he was +subjected to the closest examination to find out his accomplices. +Loyal and affectionate, he could not be made to speak. He was finally +offered his freedom and permission to leave the island if he would +divulge all. The government reasoned that if they could make a witness +of him they would succeed in serving their own interest best, as by +sacrificing one prisoner they might gain knowledge of many disaffected +people whom they did not even suspect of disloyalty. One of the +sisters of the prisoner determined to assume the guilt, and declare +that her brother was the unknowing agent of her purpose; but when at +last satisfied that this would not free him, she reluctantly gave up +the design. The young Cuban maintained his silence. No publicity was +given to the matter. He was brought before a military tribunal—so +much is known. The sentence never publicly transpired. Like most +political prisoners who pass within the walls of Moro Castle, his fate +remains a secret.</p> + +<p>There are two sides to every picture; even light casts its shadow, and +we feel constrained to speak plainly. Social life in the island is +certainly at a very low ebb, and unblushing licentiousness prevails. +That there are many and noble exceptions only renders the opposite +fact the more prominent. This immorality is more particularly among +the home Spaniards, whose purpose it is to remain here long enough to +gain a certain amount of money, and then to return<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> to the mother +country to enjoy it. They look upon all associations contracted here +as of a temporary character, and the matter of morality does not +affect them in the least. Domestic comforts are few, and, as we have +intimated, literature is hardly recognized. The almost entire absence +of books or reading matter of any sort is remarkable. A few daily and +weekly newspapers, under rigid censorship, supply all the taste for +letters. Married women seem to sink far below their husbands in +influence. The domestic affections are not cultivated; in short, home +to the average Cuban is only a place to sleep,—not of peaceful +enjoyment. His meals are rarely taken with his family, but all spare +hours are absorbed at the club. Domestic infidelity is prevalent, and +female virtue but little esteemed. Priest-craft and king-craft have +been the curse of both Spain and Cuba. Here, as in Italy, the +outrageous and thinly-disguised immorality of the priesthood poisons +many an otherwise unpolluted fount, and thus all classes are liable to +infection. Popery and slavery are both largely to be charged with the +low condition of morals, though the influence of the former has of +late years been much curtailed, both in Spain and in Cuba. The young +women are the slaves of local customs, as already intimated, and +cannot go abroad even to church without a duenna,—a fact which in +itself proves the debased standard of morals. The men appear to have +no religion at all, but the women very generally attend early mass and +go periodically to confessional. No one seems to think it strange for +a white man to have a colony of mulatto children, even though he be +also the father of a white family! Many have only the mulatto family, and seem +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +content. These are generally the home Spaniards, already +spoken of, and when their fortunes are secured they recklessly sever +all local ties and responsibilities and return to Spain. This is no +new thing, as there are many families in Cuba of fair position +socially, and often of considerable wealth, whose members are by the +right of classification quadroons. Miscegenation has greatly +complicated social matters, and in half a century, more or less, it +may produce a distinctive class, who will be better able to assert and +sustain their rights than those who have preceded them.</p> + +<p>The class of home Spaniards who have emigrated to Cuba has always been +of a questionable character. The description of them by Cervantes in +his time will apply in our own day with equal force. He says: "The +island is the refuge of the profligates of Spain, a sanctuary for +homicides, a skulking-place for gamblers and sharpers, and a +receptacle for women of free manners,—a place of delusion to many, of +amelioration to few."</p> + +<p>One peculiarity which is sure to strike the stranger unpleasantly, and +to which allusion has incidentally been made, whether in public or +private houses, in the stores or in the streets, is that the colored +children of both sexes, under eight and nine years of age, are +permitted to go about in a state of nudity. In the country, among the +Montero class, this custom also extends to the white children. The +colored men who labor in the streets and on the wharves wear only a +short pair of linen pantaloons, displaying a muscular development +which any white man might envy. The remarkable contrast in the +powerful frames of these dusky Africans and the puny Asiatic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +coolies is extraordinary. On the plantations and small farms the slaves wear +but one garment, just sufficient for decency. The great heat when +exposed to the sun is the reason, probably, rather than any economical +idea.</p> + +<p>The populace of Havana is eminently a festive one. Men luxuriate in +the café, or spend their evenings in worse places. A brief period of +the morning only is given to business, the rest of the day and night +to melting lassitude, smoking, and luxurious ease. Evidences of +satiety, languor, and dullness, the weakened capacity for enjoyment, +are sadly conspicuous, the inevitable sequence of indolence and vice. +The arts and sciences seldom disturb the thoughts of such people. +Here, as in many European cities, Lazarus and Dives elbow each other, +and an Oriental confusion of quarters prevails. The pretentious +town-house is side by side with the humble quarters of the artisan, or +even the negro hut, about which swarm the naked juveniles of color, a +half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of +this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon +some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but +being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to +some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong +contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements +of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored +where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain +seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is +the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms +most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though +there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people +of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most +hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance +of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were +told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and +hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was +obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true.</p> + +<p>Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to +improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us +state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found +where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta +fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh +from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by +much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It +is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of, +refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of +the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The +island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less +similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs. +Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative +properties.</p> + +<p>In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets +at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores, +workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the +master in his shirt-sleeves, surrounded by his family, clerks, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +and all white employees, sitting in full sight at breakfast, generally in +the business room itself. The midday siesta, an hour later, if not a +necessity in this climate, is a universal custom. The shopkeeper, even +as he sits on duty, drops his head upon his arm and sleeps for an +hour, more or less. The negro and his master both succumb to the same +influence, catching their forty winks, while the ladies, if not +reclining, "lose themselves" with heads resting against the backs of +the universal rocking-chairs. One interior seen by the passer-by is as +like another as two peas. A Cuban's idea of a well-furnished +sitting-room is fully met by a dozen cane-bottom rocking-chairs, and a +few poor chromos on the walls. These rocking-chairs are ranged in two +even lines, reaching from the window to the rear of the room, with a +narrow woollen mat between them on the marble floor, each chair being +conspicuously flanked by a cuspidor. This parlor arrangement is so +nearly universal as to be absolutely ludicrous.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Sabbath Scenes in Havana. — Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. +— City Squares and their Ornamentation. — The Cathedral. — +Tomb of Columbus. — Plaza de Armas. — Out-Door Concerts. — +Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. — Superbly Appointed Cafés. +— Gambling. — Lottery Tickets. — Fast Life. — Masquerade +Balls. — Carnival Days. — The Famous Tacon Theatre. — The +Havana Casino. — Public Statues. — Beauties of the +Governor's Garden. — The Alameda. — The Old Bell-Ringer. — +Military Mass. +</div> + +<p>On no other occasion is the difference between the manners of a +Protestant and Catholic community so strongly marked as on the +Sabbath. In the former, a sober seriousness stamps the deportment of +the people, even when they are not engaged in devotional exercises; in +the latter, worldly pleasures and religious forms are pursued, as it +were, at the same time, or follow each other in incongruous +succession. We would not have the day made tedious, and it can only be +so to triflers; to the true Christian it will ever be characterized by +thoughtfulness and repose. The Parisian flies from the church to the +railway station to join some picnic excursion, or to assist at the +race-course, or he passes with a careless levity from St. Geneviève to +the dance booths of the Champs Elysées. In New Orleans, the Creole who +has just bent his knee before the altar repairs to the theatre to pass +the evening; and the Cuban goes from the absolution of the priest to +the hurly-burly of the bull-ring or the cock-pit.</p> + +<p>The influence of fifteen minutes in the church, if +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +salutary, would seem to be quickly dissipated by the attraction of the gaming-table +and the masked ball. Even the Sunday ceremonial of the Church is a +pageant: the splendid robes of the officiating priest, changed in the +course of the service like the costume of actors in a drama; the +music, to Protestant ears operatic and exciting; the clouds of incense +scattering their intoxicating perfumes; the chanting in a strange +tongue, unknown to the majority of the worshipers,—all tend to give +the Roman Catholic services a carnival character. Far be it from us, +however, to charge these congregations with an undue levity, or a lack +of sincerity. Many a lovely Creole kneels upon the marble floor +entirely estranged from the brilliant groups around her, and +apparently unconscious for the time of the admiration she excites. +There are many, no doubt, who look beyond the glittering symbols to +the great truths of the Being whom they are intended to typify. The +impression made by the Sabbath ceremonials of the Church strikes us as +evanescent, more pleasing to the fancy than informing to the +understanding. Still, if the Sabbath in Catholic countries is not +wholly devoted to religious observances, neither are the week days +wholly absorbed by business and by careless pleasures. The churches +are always open, silently but eloquently inviting to devotion, and it +is much to be able to step aside at any moment from the temptations, +business, and cares of life into an atmosphere of seclusion and +religion. The solemn quiet of an old cathedral on a week day is +impressive from its very contrast to the tumult outside. Within its +venerable walls the light seems chastened, as it falls through stained +panes and paints the images of Christian saints and martyrs on +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +the pavement of the aisles. A half unwilling reverence is apt to stimulate +us on such an occasion, however skeptical we may be.</p> + +<p>The Sabbath in Havana breaks upon the citizens amid the ringing of +bells, the firing of cannon from the forts, the noise of trumpets, and +the roll of the drum. It is no day of physical rest here, and the +mechanical trades are uninterrupted. It is the chosen period for the +military reviews, the masked ball, and the bull-fight. The stores are +open as usual, the same cries are heard on the streets, and the +lottery tickets are vended on every corner. The individuals who devote +themselves to this business are in numbers like an army with banners. +They rend the air with their cries, promising good luck to all +purchasers, while they flourish their scissors with one hand, and +thrust the sheet of printed numbers in your face with the other, ready +to cut any desired ticket or portion of a ticket. The day proves +equally propitious for the omnipresent organ-grinder and his +ludicrously-dressed little monkey, à la Napoleon; the Chinese peddler; +the orange and banana dealer; and the universal cigarette purveyor. +Still, the rough Montero from the country, with his long line of +loaded mules or ponies, respectfully raises his broad Panama with one +hand while he makes the sign of the cross with the other as he passes +the church door. The churches of Havana look very old and shabby +compared with those of peninsular Spain, where the splendor of church +ornamentation reaches its acme.</p> + +<p>In and about the commercial part of the town, the out-door gambler +forms a conspicuous feature of the Sabbath, seated upon a cloth spread +upon the ground, and armed with cards, dice, cups, and other instruments. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +With voluble tongue and expressive pantomime urging the +passer-by to try his luck, he meets with varying success. Many who are +drawn into the net are adroitly permitted to win a little, and +afterwards to lose much. Sailors on shore for a day's liberty are +profitable game for these thimble-riggers, as they are called with us. +Both Spaniards and Creoles patronize them, and occasionally a negro +tries his luck with a trifle. In open squares, or at the intersection +of several streets, one sometimes sees a carpet spread upon the +ground, upon which an athlete accompanied by a couple of expert boys, +dressed in high-colored tights ornamented with spangles, diverts the +throng by exhibiting gymnastics. At the close of the performance, a +young girl in a fancy dress and with long, flowing hair passes among +the spectators and gathers a few shillings. Not far away is observed +Punch and Judy in the height of a successful quarrel to the music of a +harp and a violin. The automatic contestants pound and pommel each +other after the conventional fashion.</p> + +<p>The city abounds in well-arranged squares, often ornamented by the +royal palm, always a figure of majesty and beauty, with here and there +a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel, +which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is +strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same +family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may +be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the +tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either +extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green, +contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> slate color. +It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a +bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as +though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts +great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found +dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups, +or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the +eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long +avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee +plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue.</p> + +<p>The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept +square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the +great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one +corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot +where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated +on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while. +The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime, +though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his +death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas +fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous +old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was +sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age +was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was +erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their +shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it +is opened but once a year to the public,—on the 16th of November, +which is the feast day of San Cristobal, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>when mass is celebrated in +honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of +Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings.</p> + +<p>This square is divided into neatly kept paths, and planted with +fragrant flowers, conspicuous among which were observed the white and +red camellias, while a grateful air of coolness was diffused by the +playing of a fountain into a broad basin, ornamented by a marble +statue of Ferdinand VII. The Creoles are passionately fond of music, +and this park used to be the headquarters of all out-door concerts. +Their favorite airs are waltzes and native dances, with not a little +of the Offenbach spirit in them. The guitar is the favorite domestic +musical instrument here, as in peninsular Spain, and both sexes are as +a rule clever performers upon it. Evening music in the open air is +always attractive, but nowhere is its influence more keenly felt than +under the mellow effulgence of tropical nights. Nowhere can we +conceive of a musical performance listened to with more relish and +appreciation than in the Plaza de Armas or the Parque de Isabella in +Havana. The latter place on the occasion of the concerts is the resort +of all classes. Here friends meet, flirtations are carried on, toilets +are displayed, and lovers woo. Even the humble classes are seen in +large numbers quietly strolling on the outer portions of the Plaza +listening to the fine performances of the band, and quietly enjoying +the music, "tamed and led by this enchantress still." The balmy nature +of the climate permits the ladies to dispense with shawls or wraps of +any sort; bonnets they very seldom wear, so that they sit in their +vehicles, or alighting appropriate the chairs arranged for the purpose +lining the broad central path, and thus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> appear in full evening dress, +bare arms, and necks supplemented by most elaborate coiffures. Even +the black lace mantilla, so commonly thrown over the head and +shoulders in the cities of Spain, is discarded of an evening on the +Plaza de Isabella.</p> + +<p>It was very amusing to sit here near the marble statue of the ex-queen +(which is, by the way, a wonderful likeness of Queen Victoria), where +the band, composed of sixty instrumental performers, discoursed +admirable music, and to observe young Cuba abroad, represented by boys +and girls of ten and twelve years dressed like young ladies and +gentlemen, sauntering arm in arm through the broad paths. These +children attend balls given by grown-up people, and are painted and +bedizened and decked out like their elders,—a singular fashion in +Cuban cities. It is true they not infrequently fall asleep on such +occasions in rocking-chairs and in odd corners, overcome by fatigue, +as the hours of festivity creep on towards the morning. Childhood is +ignored. Youth of a dozen years is introduced to the habits of people +thrice that age. We were sadly told, by one who is himself a parent, +that most children in the island but twelve years of age know the +delicate relations of the sexes as well as they would ever know them. +What else could be expected in an atmosphere so wretchedly immoral? +Small boys dressed in stovepipe hats and swallow-tail coats, and +little misses in long dresses with low necks look like mountebanks.</p> + +<p>Opposite the Plaza de Isabella, on the Tacon Theatre side of the +square, are situated the most fashionable cafés and restaurants of the +capital, where "life" commences at nine o'clock in the evening and +rages fast and furious until the small hours of the morning. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +In these resorts, which are one blaze of light, every gas-burner reflected by +dozens of mirrors, the marble tables are all occupied by vivacious +patrons. Some are playing dominoes, some few are engaged at games of +chess, others are busy over checkers or cards, and all are gambling. +Even the lookers-on at the games freely stake their money on the +fortunes of the several players. The whole scene is one of noise and +confusion, fifty tongues giving voice at the same time. If a Spaniard +or Creole loses a dollar he gesticulates and argues about it as though +thousands were involved in the issue. These people represent all +classes. Some are in their shirt-sleeves, some roughly clothed, some +in full evening dress; Spaniards, Creoles, mulattoes, and occasionally +an unmistakable European. They drink often, but not strong liquors, +and one is surprised to hear coffee so often called for in place of +wine. The games are kept up until two or three o'clock in the morning. +Loitering about the doors beggars always form the shadow of the scene; +some lame, some blind, mostly negroes and coolies; now and then there +is seen among them an intelligent but sad white face, which looks +rather than utters its appeal. These are often the recipients of the +successful gambler's bounty. Now and again a lottery-ticket vender +comes in and makes the circuit of the tables, always disposing of more +or less chances, sometimes selling a whole ticket, price one doubloon, +or seventeen dollars. As we watch the scene a daintily dressed youth +with shining beaver lounges in, accompanied by one of the demi-monde +gayly dressed and sparkling with jewelry which betrays her want of +modesty. She is of the true Andalusian type, olive complexion, +coal-black hair with eyes to match, and long dark lashes; petite +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +in figure and youthful, but aged in experience. Bonnetless, her luxuriant +hair is set high upon her head, held by a square tortoise-shell comb, +and carelessly thrown off her forehead with a parting on one side. Be +sure some sad story underlies her career. She is of just that gypsy +cast that painters love to delineate. They sit down at a side table +and order ices, cake, and champagne. These are consumed amid jests and +laughter, the spurious champagne, at a fabulous cost, is drunk +merrily, the hours creep on, and the couple retire to give place to +others, after having furnished a picture of the fast, false life of +these brilliant, but dissipated haunts.</p> + +<p>Some of these cafés are more exclusive than others, where respectable +ladies and gentlemen can retire after the band has ceased its +performance, and enjoy the cooling influence of an ice. The Louvre, +just opposite the Plaza de Isabella and adjoining the Tacon Theatre, +is one of such. These establishments couple with their current evening +business that of the manufacture of choice preserves for domestic use +and also for export, the fruits of the island supplying the basis for +nearly a hundred varieties of fruit preserves, which find large sales +in our Northern cities and in Europe.</p> + +<p>In carnival week these cafés do an immense business; it is the harvest +of their year. People who can hardly afford three meals a day pinch +themselves and suffer much self-denial that they may have money to +spend in carnival week. The public masquerade balls, which then take +place, allure all classes. The celebrations of the occasion culminate +in a grand public masquerade ball given in the Tacon Theatre. The +floor of the parquette is temporarily raised to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> level with the +boxes and the stage, the entire floor or lower part of the house being +converted into a grand ball-room. The boxes and galleries are thrown +open free to the public. The music, furnished by two military bands, +alternating in their performance, is kept up until broad daylight, +while the participants come and go as they please. A little after +midnight an organization called the comparzas comes upon the scene. It +is composed of men, boys, and women, all masked, who have practiced +for the occasion some emblematic dance to perform for their own and +the public amusement. The other dancers give way and the new-comers +perform, in harlequin fashion, their allotted parts. Towards morning a +large paper globe is suspended from the ceiling and lowered to within +a certain height from the floor. Blindfolded volunteers of both sexes, +furnished with sticks, are permitted to walk towards and try to hit +it. Scores fail, others just graze the globe of paper, all amid loud +laughter from the spectators. Finally some one hits the globe full and +fair, bringing down the contents amid vociferous applause. Then +commences a general scramble for the contents, consisting of bonbons, +toys, and fancy trinkets.</p> + +<p>The celebrated Tacon Theatre faces the Paseo de Isabella, and is built +on the corner of San Rafael Street. It is a capacious structure, but +extremely plain and unimpressive in its exterior appearance. It has +five tiers of boxes and a spacious parquette, the latter furnished +with separate arm-chair seats for six hundred persons. The entire +seating capacity of the house is a trifle over three thousand, and the +auditorium is of the horseshoe shape. The lattice-work finish before +the boxes is very light and graceful in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> effect, ornamented with gilt, +and so open as to display the dresses and pretty feet of the fair +occupants to the best advantage. The frescos are in good style, and +the ornamentation, without being excessive, is in excellent and +harmonious taste. A large, magnificent glass chandelier, lighted with +gas, and numerous smaller ones extending from the boxes give a +brilliant light to this elegant house, which is one of the largest +theatres in the world. The scene is a remarkable one when tier upon +tier is filled with gayly dressed ladies, powdered and rouged as Cuban +women are apt to be, in the most liberal manner. The parquette is +reserved for gentlemen, and when the audience is assembled forms a +striking contrast to the rest of the house, as they always appear in +dark evening dress, and between the acts put on their tall black +beaver hats. These audiences have their own special modes of +exhibiting appreciation or applause, when captivated by a prima +donna's or a danseuse's efforts to please them. At favorable moments +during the performance the artist is showered with bouquets; white +doves are set free from the boxes, bearing laudatory verses fastened +to their wings; gentlemen throw their hats upon the stage, and +sometimes even purses weighted with gold. Tiny balloons are started +with long streamers of colored ribbon attached; jewelry in the shape +of bracelets and rings is conveyed over the footlights; in short, +these Spaniards are sometimes extraordinarily demonstrative. A furore +has sometimes cost these caballeros large sums of money. But we are +describing the past rather than the immediate present, for the +scarcity of pecuniary means has put an end to nearly all such +extravagances. The Havanese are peculiar in their tastes. While Miss +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +Adelaide Phillips was more than once the recipient of extravagant +favors on the Tacon Theatre stage, Jenny Lind did not pay her +professional expenses when she sang there.</p> + +<p>The military are always in attendance in large numbers at the theatre, +as at all public gatherings in Cuba, their only perceptible use being +to stare the ladies out of countenance and to obstruct the +passageways. In front of the main entrance to the theatre is an open +area decorated with tropical plants and trees, where a group of the +crimson hibiscus was observed, presenting a gorgeous effect of color. +The other places of amusement in Havana, of a dramatic character, are +the Payret Theatre, very large, seating twenty-five hundred; the +Albisu Theatre, and the Circo, Teatro de Jané, this latter combining a +theatre with a circus.</p> + +<p>As a place of amusement and instruction combined we should be remiss +not to mention the Casino of Havana. It is carried on by an organized +society formed on the basis of a club and has, we were told, over one +hundred members. The Casino occupies a fine building, fronting Obispo +Street, and close to the parks. It supports a free school for teaching +the English and French languages and drawing. After some fifteen years +of successful existence the society has become one of the institutions +of the metropolis. The halls and apartments are large, lofty, and very +finely furnished with all domestic conveniences except sleeping +accommodations. Here dramatic entertainments are frequently given, +mostly by amateurs, and generally for charitable purposes. The main +ball-room of the Casino is handsomely decorated and is the scene of +occasional masked balls, after the true<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> Madrid style, where many an +intrigue is consummated which does not always end without bloodshed. +It is the favorite resort of all the high officials of Havana, who +have within their possible reach too few social entertainments not to +make the most of those presented at the Casino. During the carnival +season the ball-room of the establishment is said to present, in the +form of nightly masquerade balls, scenes which for gayety and +picturesqueness cannot be surpassed in Europe.</p> + +<p>Old Havana is certainly eclipsed by the really fine broad streets and +the palatial buildings which have sprung up outside of her ancient +limits. In point of picturesqueness the old town has precedence. Near +where the Indian Paseo and the Plaza de Isabella II. join each other, +a portion of the old wall which once surrounded the city is still to +be seen, with its crumbling bastions and ivy-grown débris. Sufficient +is left to show that the wall was a remarkably substantial one and an +efficient defense against the modes of attack prevalent when it was +built. The Indian Paseo commences opposite the Campo de Marte, and is +so called from the large marble fountain dedicated to that aboriginal +idea. This elaborate structure was executed in Italy at large expense. +Its principal figure is an Indian maiden, allegorical of Havana, +supporting a shield bearing the arms of the city. These paseos are +admirably ornamented on either side by a continuous line of laurel +trees whose thick foliage gives admirable shade. On either side of the +long central promenade the well-paved streets are broad and handsome, +being ornamented with high buildings of a domestic and public +character and of good architectural effect. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>Matanzas & Havana +Railroad depot is situated just opposite one end of the Campo de +Marte, its freight yard extending also along the Paseo for an entire +block, detracing much from the fine effect of the broad street. The +trains and noisy engines being thus brought into the midst of the +dwellings and business centre of the city render it very +objectionable. The guests of the Telegrafo Hotel can bear testimony as +to the nuisance thus created, being awakened at all sorts of +unreasonable hours by the engine bell and steam whistle.</p> + +<p>The Botanical Garden is situated about a mile from the city proper, +adjoining which are the attractive grounds of the Governor General's +country-house. Both are open to the public and richly repay a visit. +The Governor's grounds are shaded by a great variety of tropical trees +and flowers. Here was seen what is called the water rose, pink in +color and nearly double the size of our pond lily, recalling the +Egyptian lotus, to which family it would seem it must belong. +Altogether, the place is a wilderness of blossoms, composed of exotic +and native flowers. There is also an interesting aviary to be seen +here, and a small artificial lake is covered with curious web-footed +birds and brilliant-feathered ducks. The gardens seem to be neglected, +but they are very lovely in their native luxuriance. Dead wood and +decaying leaves are always a concomitant of such gardens in the low +latitudes. If the roses and heliotropes are in full bloom, some other +flowering shrub alongside is taking its rest and looks rusty, so that +the whole garden is never in a glow of beauty at one time, as is the +case with us in June. The noble alley of palms, the great variety of +trees, blossoms, and shrubs, the music<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> of the fountains, and the +tropical flavor permeating everything were all in the harmony of +languid beauty. The coral tree, that lovely freak of vegetation, was +in bloom, its small but graceful stem, seven or eight feet in height, +being topped above the gracefully pendent leaves with a bit of +vegetable coral of deepest red, and in the form of the sea growth from +which it takes its name. The star cactus was in full flower, the +scarlet buds starting out from the flat surface of the thick leaves +after a queer and original fashion. The bread-fruit tree, with its +large, melon-like product, hung heavy with the nourishing esculent. +The Carolina tree, with gorgeous blossoms like military pompons, +blazed here and there, overshadowing the large, pure white, and +beautiful campanile, with hanging flowers, like metallic bells, after +which the plant is named. Here too was a great variety of the scarlet +hibiscus and the garland of night (galan de noche), which grows like a +young palm to eight or nine feet, throwing out from the centre-of its +drooping foliage a cluster of brown blossoms tipped with white, shaped +like a mammoth bunch of grapes. It blooms at night and is fragrant +only by moon and starlight. Cuba presents an inexhaustible field for +the botanist, and in its wilder portions recalls the island of Ceylon +in the Indian Ocean. As Ceylon is called the pearl of India so is Cuba +the pearl of the Antilles.</p> + +<p>To reach the Governor's Garden one turns west from the Campo de Marte +and takes the Calzada de la Reina, which followed about a mile in a +straight line becomes the Paseo de Tacon, really but a continuation of +the former street, commencing at the statue of Carlos III., a colossal +monument placed in the middle of the broad driveway. This Paseo forms the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +favorite evening drive of the citizens, where the ladies in +victorias and the gentlemen either as equestrians or on foot pass and +repass each other, gayly saluting, the ladies with a coquettish +flourish of the fan, and the gentlemen with a peculiar wave of the +hand. It is in fact the Champs Elysées of Havana, but the road is +sadly out of repair and as dusty as an ash-pit.</p> + +<p>The Alameda—every large Spanish city has a spot so designated—skirts +the shore of the harbor on the city side, near the south end of +Oficios Street, and is a favorite resort for promenaders at the +evening hour. Here a refreshing coolness is breathed from off the sea. +This Alameda de Paula might be a continuation of the Neapolitan +Chiaja. With characteristics quite different, still these shores +constantly remind one of the Mediterranean, Sorrento, Amalfi, and +Capri, recalling the shadows which daily creep up the heights of San +Elmo and disappear with the setting sun behind the orange groves. +Sometimes it would seem to be the grand problem of humanity, why the +loveliest regions of the earth and the softest climates should be +apportioned to the share of slaves and despots.</p> + +<p>The cathedral of Havana, on Empedrado Street, is a structure of much +interest, its rude pillared front of defaced and moss-grown stone +plainly telling of the wear of time. The two lofty towers are hung +with many bells, which daily call with their brazen tongues to matins +and vespers. Some of these bells are very ancient. The church is not +elaborately ornamented,—it rather strikes one with its unusual +plainness. It contains a few oil paintings of moderate merit, and also +the tomb where the ashes of Columbus so long reposed. All that is +visible of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> tomb, which is on the right of the altar, is a marble +tablet six or eight feet square, upon which, in high relief, is a bust +of the great discoverer. As a work of art, the less said of this +effigy the better. Beneath the image is an inscription sufficiently +bombastic and Spanish in tone, but therein we observed no mention was +made of the chains and imprisonment with which an ungrateful country +rewarded this man whom history so delights to honor. It will be +remembered that Columbus died at Valladolid in 1506. In 1513 his +remains were transferred to Seville, preparatory to their being sent, +as desired in his will, to St. Domingo, to which city they were +removed in 1536. When that island was ceded to France, they were +brought with great pomp to Havana in a national ship (January 15, +1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high +authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and +are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this +association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet +thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty +dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The +high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry +mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The +stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was +annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was +observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend +in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population +present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from +curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de +la Concepcion.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains +the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have +seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that +this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up +into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive +view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before +a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here +in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the +practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call +your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions: +one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another +is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these +bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has +caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a +danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a +victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as +merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many +years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to +vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such +things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the +sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for +priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgetting many saintly +garments wrought in gold and studded with precious stones. Perhaps you +will think, as we did, that such things are but tinsel before Him whom +they are supposed to honor. Such dazzling paraphernalia may attract +the ignorant or the thoughtless—may make followers, but not +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +converts. Conviction is not the child of fancy, but of judgment.</p> + +<p>In an anteroom at the left of the altar there are also to be seen +utensils of silver and gold, with many costly ornaments for use before +the altar on special church occasions. One of these is a triumph of +delicate workmanship and of the silversmith's art. It is in the form +of a Gothic tower of very elaborate and artistic design, composed of +solid silver, ornamented with gold and precious stones. One regards +this thoroughly useless disposal of money with the thought that the +articles were better sold and the proceeds bestowed in worthy charity. +It would then fulfill a far more Christian purpose than that of adding +glitter to church pomp and ceremony.</p> + +<p>To witness the observance of Holy Week, commencing with Palm Sunday, +in Havana, one would be impressed with a conviction that the people +were at heart devout Roman Catholics. The occasion is solemnly +observed. On Sunday the old cathedral is crowded by people who come to +obtain branches of holy palm from the priests. The old bell-ringer +becomes an important agent of the ceremonies, and the solemn spirit of +the occasion seems to imbue all classes of the Havanese. On Holy +Thursday, just before midday, the bells of all the churches cease to +ring, and every vehicle in the city disappears from the streets as if +by magic. The garrison marches through the principal thoroughfares in +silence, with measured tread and arms reversed. The national flags +upon the shipping, and on all the forts from Moro to the Castillo del +Principe, are displayed at half mast. The cathedral and the churches +are draped in mourning. On Friday, the effigy of our Saviour's body is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +carried in solemn procession, men and priests marching with heads +uncovered, and devout women of the common classes, especially colored +ones, kneeling in the street as it passes. On Saturday, at ten o'clock +in the morning, the old bell-ringer suddenly starts a merry peal from +the cathedral tower—the bells of La Merced, San Agustin, Santa Clara, +and Santa Cataline follow; the town awakens to gayety as from a +lethargic sleep. Whites and negroes rush through the streets like mad; +vehicles of all sorts again make their appearance, the forts and +national ships are dressed in holiday flags, and the town is shaken +with reiterated salutes from a hundred cannons.</p> + +<p>Military mass, as performed within the cathedral, seemed more like a +theatrical show than a solemn religious service. On the occasion +referred to, the congregation as usual was sparse, and consisted +almost exclusively of women, who seem to do penance for both sexes in +Cuba. The military band which led the column of infantry marched in, +playing a quick operatic air, deploying to one side for the soldiery +to pass towards the altar. The time-keeping steps of the soldiery upon +the marble floor mingled with drum, fife, and organ. Through all this, +one caught now and then the monotonous voice of a shaven-headed +priest, reciting his prescribed part at the altar, kneeling and +reading at intervals. The busy censer boys in white gowns; the flaring +candles casting long shadows athwart the high altar; the files of +soldiers kneeling and rising at the tap of the drum; the atmosphere +clouded with the fumes of burning incense,—all combined to make up a +singularly dramatic picture. The gross mummery witnessed at the temple +of Buddha in Ceylon differed only in form, scarcely in degree.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +The wealth of the churches of the monks in the island was formerly +proverbial, but of late the rich perquisites which the priests were so +long permitted to extort from the credulous public have been diverted +so as to flow into the coffers of the crown. A military depotism +brooks no rival in authority. The priests at one time possessed large +tracts of land in Cuba, and their revenue therefrom, especially when +they were improved as sugar plantations, was very large. These lands +have all been confiscated by the government, and with the loss of +their property the power of the monks has declined and their numbers +have also diminished. Still the liberty of public worship is denied to +all save Roman Catholics. Since the suppression of monastic +institutions, some of the convents have been utilized for hospitals, +government storehouses, and other public offices in Havana. There are +some manifest incongruities that suggest themselves as existing +between Church and state upon the island. For instance, the Church +recognizes the unity of all races and even permits marriage between +all, but here steps in the civil law of Cuba and prohibits marriage +between white persons and those having any taint of negro blood. In +consequence of this,—nature always asserting herself regardless of +conventionalities,—a quasi family arrangement often exists between +white men and mulatto or quadroon women, whereby the children are +recognized as legitimate. But should either party come under the +discipline of the Church, the relationship must terminate. Again, as +is perfectly well known, many of the priests, under a thin disguise, +lead domestic lives, where a family of children exist under the care +of a single mother, who is debarred from the honest name of wife by the laws +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +of celibacy which are stringently held as the inexorable rule of the Church.</p> + +<p>If the priesthood keep from cock-fighting and gambling, says a late +writer on the subject, notwithstanding many other departures from +propriety, they are considered respectable. Can there be any wonder +that the masses of men in Cuba recognize no religious obligations, +since none save Roman Catholicism is tolerated, and that, through its +priesthood, is so disgraced?</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Political Inquisition. — Fashionable Streets of the City. — +Tradesmen's Signs. — Bankrupt Condition of Traders. — The +Spanish Array. — Exiled Patriots. — Arrival of Recruits. — +The Garrote. — A Military Execution. — Cuban Milk Dealers. +— Exposure of Domestic Life. — Living in the Open Air. — +The Campo Santo of Havana. — A Funeral Cortége. — Punishing +Slaves. — Campo de Marte. — Hotel Telegrafo. — Environs of +the City. — Bishop's Garden. — Consul-General Williams. — +Mineral Springs. +</div> + +<p>The Inquisition, as it regards the Church of Rome, is suppressed in +Cuba, but the political inquisition, as exercised by the government on +the island, is even more diabolical than that of the former Jesuitical +organization, because it is more secret in its murderous deeds, not +one half of the horrors of which will ever be publicly known. Moro +Castle is full of political prisoners, who are thinned out by +executions, starvation, and hardships generally, from day to day, only +to make room for fresh victims. He who enters those grim portals +leaves all hope behind. Political trials there are none, but of +political arrests there are endless numbers. The life of every citizen +is at the disposal of the Captain-General. If a respectable person is +arrested, as one suspected of animosity towards the government, he +simply disappears. His friends dare not press his defense, or inquire +too closely as to his case, lest they, too, should be incarcerated on +suspicion, never again to regain their liberty. A maxim of Spanish law +is that every accused person is guilty, until he proves himself +innocent! As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> a large majority of the people, in their hearts, +sympathize with the revolutionists, and are revolutionists in secret, +they are liable to say or to do some trifling thing unwittingly, upon +which the lynx-eyed officials seize as evidence of guilt, and their +arrest follows. What fearful stories the dungeons of Moro could reveal +had they tongue with which to speak!</p> + +<p>Obispo and O'Riley streets are the principal shopping thoroughfares of +the metropolis, containing many fine stores for the sale of dry goods, +millinery, china, glassware, and jewelry. These shops are generally +quite open in front. Standing at the end, and looking along either of +these thoroughfares, one gets a curious perspective view. The +party-colored awnings often stretch entirely across the narrow +streets, reminding one of a similar effect in Canton, where straw +matting takes the place of canvas, forming a sort of open marquee. The +queer names adopted for the stores never fail to afford a theme of +amusement; the drawling cries of the fruit-dealers and peripatetic +tradesmen giving an added interest. The merchant in Havana does not +designate his establishment by placing his own name upon his sign, but +adopts some fancy title, such as Diana, America, The Star, Virtue, The +Golden Lion, and so on, which titles are paraded in gilt letters over +the door. The Spanish people are always prodigal in names, making the +sun, moon and stars, gods and goddesses, all do duty in designating +their stores, villas, and plantations. Nearly every town on the island +is named after some apostle or saint. The tradesmen are thorough Jews +in their style of dealing with the public, and no one thinks of paying +them the price which they first demand for an article. It is their +practice<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> in naming a price to make allowance for reduction; they +expect to be bargained with, or cheapened at least one half. The +ladies commonly make their purchases late in the afternoon or evening, +stopping in their victorias at the doors of the shops, from whence the +articles they desire are brought by the shopmen and deftly displayed +on the street. When lighted up at night the stores are really +brilliant and attractive, presenting quite a holiday appearance; but +customers are sadly wanting in these days of business depression. "I +have been compelled to dismiss my salesmen and do their work myself," +said a dry-goods merchant to us; "we dare not give credit, and few +persons have cash to spare in these times."</p> + +<p>One of the principal causes of the present bankrupt condition of the +people of Cuba is the critical period of transition through which the +island is passing from slave to free labor; besides which there is the +exhaustion consequent upon years of civil war and a succession of bad +crops. Labor is becoming dearer and sugar cheaper. The Spaniards are +slow to adopt labor-saving machinery, or new ideas of any sort, and +those not already supplied have neither capital nor credit with which +to procure the new machinery for sugar-making. The enormous production +of European beet-sugar has cut off all Continental demand for their +staple, and has in some degree superseded its use in America. +Brigandage is on the increase, as poverty and want of legitimate +employment prevail. Money, when it can be borrowed at all, is at a +ruinous interest. The army of office-holders still manage to extort +considerable sums in the aggregate from the people, under the guise of +necessary taxes. Financial ruin stares all in the face.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> It is a sad +thing to say, but only too true, that among people heretofore +considered above suspicion in commercial transactions great dishonesty +prevails, pecuniary distress and lack of credit driving men, once in +good standing, to defraud their creditors at home and abroad. Estates +and plantations are not only heavily mortgaged, but the prospective +crops are in the same condition, in many cases. In former prosperous +years the planters have been lavish spenders of money, ever ready to +use their credit to the full extent, until their interest account has +consumed their principal. The expensive habits acquired under the +promptings of large profits and a sure market are difficult to +overcome, and people who never anticipated the present state of +affairs are now forced to exercise economy and self-denial. Cuban +planters and their families, in years past, came to our most +fashionable watering-places decked with jewels of almost fabulous +value, and they lavished gold like water; most of these individuals +considered themselves to be rich beyond the chances of fortune. Their +profuse style of living was a source of envy; their liberality to +landlords and to servants was demoralizing, as it regarded the tariff +of hotel prices for more steady-going people. Thousands of human +beings were yielding their enforced labor to fill these spendthrifts' +purses, and sugar was king. The picture has its reverse. Civil war has +supervened, the slaves are being freed, sugar is no longer a bonanza, +and the rich man of yesterday is the bankrupt of to-day. Truly riches +have wings.</p> + +<p>Spain keeps a large and effective force of soldiers upon the +island,—an army out of all proportion in numbers to the territory or +people she holds in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> subjection. The present military force must +number some forty thousand, rank and file, and the civil department +fully equals the army in number; and all are home Spaniards. A large +portion of the military are kept in the eastern department of the +island, which is and has ever been the locality where revolutionary +outbreaks occur. Eighty per cent, of all the soldiers ever sent to +Cuba have perished there! It is as Castelar once pronounced the island +to be, in the Cortes at Madrid, namely, the Campo Santo of the Spanish +army. Exposure, a miserable commissariat, the climate, and insurgent +bullets combine to thin the ranks of the army like a raging +pestilence. We were informed by a responsible party that twenty-five +per cent, of the newly-arrived soldiers died in their first year, +during what is called their acclimation. Foreigners who visit Cuba for +business or pleasure do so at the most favorable season; they are not +subjected to hardships nor exposed in malarial districts. The +soldiers, on the contrary, are sent indiscriminately into the fever +districts at the worst season, besides being called upon to endure +hardships, all the time, which predispose them to fatal diseases.</p> + +<p>There are known to be organized juntas of revolutionists at Key West, +Florida, in Hayti, and also in New York city, whose designs upon the +Cuban government keep the authorities on the island in a state of +chronic alarm. A revolutionary spirit is felt to be all the while +smouldering in the hearts of this oppressed people, and hence the +tyrannous espionage, and the cruelty exercised towards suspected +persons. So enormous are the expenses, military and civil, which are +required to sustain the government, under these circumstances, that +Cuba to-day, notwithstanding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> the heavy taxes extorted from her +populace, is an annual expense to the throne. Formerly the snug sum of +seven or eight millions of dollars was the yearly contribution which +the island made to the royal treasury, after paying local army, navy, +and civil expenses. This handsome sum was over and above the pickings +and stealings of the venal officials. As to the Cuban sympathizers at +Key West, Florida, a recent visit to that port, just opposite to the +island on the hither side of the Gulf Stream, showed us that they +formed a large proportion of the population of that thrifty American +town. On a day which was the anniversary of some patriotic occasion +relating to the island, hundreds of Cuban flags (the single star of +free Cuba) were seen displayed upon the dwellings and public places. +There are believed to be two thousand Creoles residing here, who have +either been expelled from the island for political reasons, or who +have escaped from thence as suspected patriots. These people are very +generally engaged in the manufacture of the well-known Key West +cigars.</p> + +<p>The Spanish army is governed with an iron hand. Military law knows no +mercy, and it is always more or less a lapse into barbarism where it +takes precedence. The ranks are filled by conscription in Spain, and +when the men first arrive at Havana they are the rawest recruits +imaginable. Soldiers who have been doing garrison duty are sent inland +to fill the decimated ranks of various stations, and room is thus made +for the recruits, who are at once put to work, enduring a course of +severe discipline and drill. They land from the transports, many of +them, hatless, barefooted, and in a filthy condition, with scarcely a +whole garment among a regiment of them. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> writer could hardly +believe, on witnessing the scene, that they were not a set of +criminals being transported for penal servitude. Fatigue dresses no +doubt awaited them at the barracks, and after a while they would be +served with a cheap uniform, coarse shoes, and straw hats. They are +like sheep being driven to the shambles, and are quite as helpless. +Twenty-five per cent, and upwards of these recruits are usually under +the sod before the close of a twelve-month!</p> + +<p>Sometimes the hardship they have to endure breeds rebellion among +them, but woe betide those who commit any overt act, or become leaders +of any organized attempt to obtain justice. The service requires +frequent victims as examples to enforce the rigid discipline. The +punishment by the garrote is a common resort. It is a machine +contrived to choke the victim to death without suspending him in the +air. At the same time it is fatal in another way, namely, by severing +the spinal column just below its connection with the brain. The +condemned man is placed upon a chair fixed on a platform, leaning his +head and neck back into a sort of iron yoke or frame prepared to +receive it. Here an iron collar is clasped about the throat. At the +appointed moment a screw is suddenly turned by the executioner, +stationed behind the condemned, and instantaneous death follows. This +would seem to be more merciful than hanging, whereby death is produced +by the lingering process of suffocation, to say nothing of the many +mishaps which so often occur upon the gallows. This mode of punishment +is looked upon by the army as a disgrace, and they much prefer the +legitimate death of a soldier, which is to fall by the bullets of his +comrades when condemned to die.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +The writer witnessed one of these military executions, early on a +clear April morning, which took place in the rear of the barracks near +La Punta. It was a trying experience, and recalled to mind the +execution of the mulatto poet and patriot, Valdez, which had occurred +a few years before in the Plaza at Matanzas. It was a sight to chill +the blood even under a tropical sun. A soldier of the line was to be +shot for some act of insubordination against the stringent rules of +the army, and that the punishment might prove a forcible example to +his comrades the battalion to which he belonged was drawn up on parade +to witness the cruel scene. The immediate file of twelve men to which +the victim had belonged were supplied with muskets by their officer, +and we were told that, according to custom, one musket was left +without ball, so that each one might hope that his was not the hand to +slay his former comrade. A sense of mercy would still lead them all to +aim faithfully, so that lingering pain might be avoided.</p> + +<p>The order was given: the bright morning sun shone like living fire +along the polished barrels of the guns, as the fatal muzzles all +ranged in point at the body of the condemned. "Fire!" said the +commanding officer. A quick, rattling report followed, accompanied by +a thin cloud of smoke, which was at once dispersed by the sea breeze, +showing the still upright form of the victim. Though wounded in many +places, no vital spot had been touched, nor did he fall until the +sergeant, at a sign from his officer, advanced with a reserved musket, +and quickly blew out his brains! His body was removed. The troops were +formed into column, the band struck up a lively air, and thus was a +human being launched into eternity.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +Few current matters strike the stranger as being more peculiar than +the Cuban milkman's mode of supplying the required aliment to his town +customers. He has no cart bearing shining cans, they in turn filled +with milk, or with what purports to be milk; his mode is direct, and +admits of no question as to purity. Driving his sober kine from door +to door, he deliberately milks then and there just the quantity +required by each customer, delivers it, and drives on to the next. The +patient animal becomes as familiar with the residences of her master's +customers as he is himself, and stops unbidden, at regular intervals, +before the proper doors, often followed by a pretty little calf, which +amuses itself by gazing enviously at the process, being prevented from +interfering by a leather muzzle. Sometimes the flow of milk is checked +by an effort of the animal herself, when she seems to realize that the +calf is not getting its share of nourishment. The driver then promptly +brings the calf to the mother's side, and removes the muzzle long +enough to give the little one a brief chance. The cow freely yields +her milk while the calf is close to her, and the milkman, muzzling the +calf, adroitly milks into his measure. The same mode is adopted in +India and the south of Spain. There are at least two good reasons for +delivering milk in hot climates after this fashion. First, there can +be no adulteration of the article; and second, it is sure to be fresh +and sweet. This last is a special desideratum in a climate where ice +is an expensive luxury, and the difficulty of keeping milk from +becoming acid is very great. The effect upon the cow is by no means +salutary, causing the animal to produce much less in quantity than +when milked clean at regularly fixed hours, as with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> us. Goats are +often driven about for the same purpose and used in the same manner. +It was a surprise not to see more of these animals in Cuba, a country +especially adapted to them. Cows thrive best upon grass, of which +there is comparatively little in the tropics,—vegetation runs to +larger development; but goats eat anything green, and do well nearly +anywhere. It is a singular fact that sheep transported to this climate +cease gradually to produce wool. After three or four generations they +grow only a simple covering, more like hair than wool, and resemble +goats rather than sheep.</p> + +<p>Glass is scarcely known in Cuban windows; the glazier has yet to make +his début in Havana. The most pretentious as well as the humblest of +the town-houses have the broad, high, projecting window, reaching from +floor to ceiling, secured only by heavy horizontal iron bars, +prison-like in effect, through which, as one passes along the narrow +streets, it is nearly impossible to avoid glancing in upon domestic +scenes that frequently exhibit the female portion of the family en +déshabillé. Sometimes a loose lace curtain intervenes, but even this +is unusual, the freest circulation of fresh air being quite necessary. +The eye penetrates the whole interior of domestic life, as at Yokohama +or Tokio. Indeed, the manners of the female occupants seem to court +this attention from without, coming freely as they do to the windows +to chat with passers-by. Once inside of these dwelling-houses there +are no doors, curtains alone shutting off the communication between +chambers, sitting-rooms, and corridors. These curtains, when not +looped up, are sufficient to keep out persons of the household or +strangers, it being the custom always to speak, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> place of knocking, +before passing a curtain; but the little naked negro children, male +and female, creep under these curtains without restraint, while +parrots, pigeons, and fowls generally make common use of all nooks and +corners of the house. Doors might keep these out of one's room, but +curtains do not. The division walls between the apartments in private +houses, like those in the hotels, often reach but two thirds of the +way up to the walls, thus affording free circulation of air, but +rendering privacy impossible. One reason why the Cubans all possess +such broad expanded chests is doubtless owing to the fact that their +lungs find free action at all times. They live, as it were, in the +open air. The effect of this upon strangers is seen and felt, +producing a sense of physical exhilaration, fine spirits, and a good +appetite. It would be impossible to live in a dwelling-house built in +our close, secure style, if it were placed in the city of Havana. The +laundress takes possession of the roof of the house during the day, +but it is the place of social gathering at night, when the family and +their guests enjoy the sea-breeze which sweeps in from the Gulf of +Mexico. On a clear, bright moonlight night the effect is very striking +as one looks across the house-tops, nearly all being upon a level. +Many cheerful circles are gathered here and there, some dancing to the +notes of a guitar, some singing, and others engaged in quiet games. +Merry peals of laughter come from one direction and another, telling +of light and thoughtless hearts among the family groups. Occasionally +there is borne along the range of roofs the swelling but distant +strains of the military band playing in the Plaza de Isabella, while +the moon looks calmly down from a sky whose intensely blue vault is +only broken by stars.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +The cemetery, or Campo Santo, of Havana is situated about three miles +outside of the city. A high wall incloses the grounds, in which +oven-like niches are prepared for the reception of the coffins +containing the bodies of the wealthy residents, while the poor are +thrown into shallow graves, often several bodies together in a long +trench, negroes and whites, without a coffin of any sort. Upon them is +thrown quicklime to promote rapid decomposition. The cremation which +forms the mode of disposing of the bodies of the deceased as practiced +in India is far less objectionable.</p> + +<p>The funeral cortége is unique in Havana. The hearse, drawn by four +black horses, is gilded and decked like a car of Juggernaut, and +driven by a flunkey in a cocked hat covered with gold braid, a scarlet +coat alive with brass buttons and gilt ornaments, and top boots which, +as he sits, reach half-way to his chin. This individual flourishes a +whip like a fishing-pole, and is evidently very proud of his position. +Beside the hearse walk six hired mourners on either side, dressed in +black, with cocked hats and swallow-tail coats. Fifteen or twenty +victorias follow, containing only male mourners. The driver in +scarlet, the twelve swallow-tails in black, and the occupants of the +victorias each and all are smoking cigars as though their lives +depended upon the successful operation. And so the cortége files into +the Campo Santo.</p> + +<p>Not far from La Punta there is a structure, protected from the public +gaze by a high wall, where the slaves of either sex belonging to the +citizens of Havana are brought for punishment. Within are a series of +whipping-posts, to which these poor creatures<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> are bound before +applying the lash to their bare bodies. The sight of this fiendish +procedure is cut off from the public, but more than one person has +told us of having heard the agonizing cries of the victims. And yet +there are people who will tell us these poor creatures are far better +off than when in their native country. One slave-owner said it was +necessary to make an example of some member of all large households of +slaves each month, in order to keep them under discipline! Another +said, "I never whip my slaves; it may be necessary upon a plantation, +but not in domestic circles in town. When they have incurred my +displeasure, they are deprived of some small creature comfort, or +denied certain liberties, which punishment seems to answer every +object." So it will be seen that all slave-holders are not cruel. Some +seem as judicious and reasonable as is possible under the miserable +system of slavery.</p> + +<p>Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of +the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in +what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits +of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded +the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron +fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides +was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square +pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north, +Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east +side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon. +His administration has been more praised and more censured than that +of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> Campo de +Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes +generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious +walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have +been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and +pleasure-ground.</p> + +<p>Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in +Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject, +doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general +reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel +Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to +be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being +opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke +English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed +the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars +per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table +fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish +was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one +desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather +than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as +being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but +little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously +offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in +summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary +rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in +peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of +Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who have +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for +instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no +use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was +thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by +the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet +accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse. +There is the San Carlos Hotel, near the wharves, which is more of a +family than a travelers' resort; the Hotel Pasaje, in Prado Street, +quite central; Hotel Europe, in La Plaza de San Francisco; and Hotels +Central and Ingleterra: the last two are opposite the Plaza de +Isabella, and are in the midst of noise and gayety. Arrangements can +be made at any of these houses for board by the day, or on the +European plan; all have restaurants.</p> + +<p>There are some very attractive summer resorts in the environs of the +city, one of the nearest and prettiest of which is El Cerro (the +hill), one league from town. It has a number of remarkably pleasant +country-seats, some of which have extensive gardens, rivaling that of +the Captain-General in extent. But to reach Cerro one has to drive +over a road which is in such want of repair as to be dangerous, +gullied by the rains, and exhibiting holes two feet deep, liable to +break the horses' legs and the wheels of the vehicles. Here is a road, +close to Havana, with stones weighing hundreds of pounds on the +surface, in the very wheel-tracks. Handsome hedges of the wild pine, +the aloe, and the Spanish bayonet line the road, where an occasional +royal palm, the emblem of majesty, stands alone, adding grandeur to +all the surroundings. If you drive out to Cerro, put on a linen +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +duster; otherwise you will be likely to come back looking like a +miller's apprentice. Not far beyond Cerro there lies some beautiful +country, reached by the same miserable road. Puentes Grandes, a small +village near the falls of the Almendares River, is but two miles +further north than Cerro, and adjoining this place, a couple of miles +further, is a small, picturesque village called Ceiba, from the +abundance of that species of tree which once flourished there. These +two places have some interesting country residences, where the +wealthiest citizens of Havana spend their summers. The village of +Quemados is also in this immediate neighborhood, about a couple of +leagues from town; here is situated the Havana Hippodrome, where +horse-races take place in the winter season. We must not forget to +mention Vedado, on the seashore, whither the Havanese drive oftenest +on Sundays; it is also connected with the city by steam-cars and +omnibus. There are some fine villas here, and it is quite a Cuban +watering-place, affording excellent bathing facilities. Vedado has +wide streets, and, after the city, seems to be remarkably clean and +neat.</p> + +<p>The Bishop's Garden, so called because some half century since it was +the residence of the Bishop of Havana, is about four miles from the +city, on the line of the Marianao railroad. It must have been a +delightful place when in its prime and properly cared for; even now, +in its ruins, it is extremely interesting. There are a score, more or +less, of broken, moss-grown statues, stone balustrades, and stone +capitals lying among the luxuriant vegetation, indicating what was +once here. Its alleys of palms, over two hundred years in age, the +thrifty almond-trees, and the gaudy-colored<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> piñons, with their +honeysuckle-like bloom, delight the eye. The flamboyant absolutely +blazed in its gorgeous flowers, like ruddy flames, all over the +grounds. The remarkable fan-palm spread out its branches like a +peacock's tail, screening vistas here and there. Through these grounds +flows a small swift stream, which has its rise in the mountains some +miles inland, its bright and sparkling waters imparting an added +beauty to the place. By simple irrigating means this stream is made to +fertilize a considerable tract of land used as vegetable gardens, +lying between Tulipan and Havana. The Bishop's Garden still contains +large stone basins for swimming purposes, cascades, fountains, and +miniature lakes, all rendered possible by means of this small, clear, +deep river. The neglected place is sadly suggestive of decay, with its +moss-covered paths, tangled undergrowth, and untrimmed foliage. +Nothing, however, can mar the glory of the grand immemorial palms.</p> + +<p>The town of Tulipan, in which is the Bishop's Garden, is formed of +neat and pleasant residences of citizens desiring to escape the bustle +and closeness of the city. The houses are half European or American in +their architecture, modified to suit the climate. Here the American +Consul-General has a delightfully chosen home, surrounded by pleasant +shade, and characterized by lofty, cool apartments; with bright, snowy +marble floors, plenty of space, and perfect ventilation. Mr. Williams +is a gentleman unusually well fitted for the responsible position he +fills, having been a resident of Cuba for many years, and speaking the +language like a native. In his intensely patriotic sentiments he is a +typical American. It is not out of place for us to acknowledge here our +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +indebtedness to him for much important information relating to +the island.</p> + +<p>The most celebrated mineral springs in Cuba are to be found at San +Diego, where there are hot sulphur waters, springs bubbling +ceaselessly from the earth, and for which great virtues are claimed. +The springs are situated west of Havana, between thirty and forty +leagues, at the base of the southern slope of the mountains. These +waters are freely drank, as well as bathed in, and are highly charged +with sulphureted hydrogen, and contain sulphate of lime and carbonate +of magnesia. There are some diseases of women for which the San Diego +waters are considered to be a specific, and remarkable cures are +authenticated. Rheumatism and skin diseases are specially treated by +the local physician. There is a very fair hotel at San Diego, located +near the baths, and many Americans speak warmly in praise of the place +as a health resort.</p> + +<p>Next to the springs of San Diego, those of Madruga are notable, +situated between Matanzas and Havana, and which can be reached by +rail. The character of these springs is very similar to those of San +Diego, though of lower temperature. They are used both for bathing and +for drinking. Madruga is more easily accessible from the metropolis +than is San Diego. There is also a good physician resident in the +village.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +The Fish-Market of Havana. — The Dying Dolphin. — Tax upon +the Trade. — Extraordinary Monopoly. — Harbor Boats. — A +Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. — King of the Isle of +Pines. — The Offered Reward. — Sentinels in the Plaza de +Armas. — The Governor General and the Intruder. — "I am +Captain Marti!" — The Betrayal. — The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. +— The Pardon and the Reward. — Tacon's Stewardship and +Official Career. — Monopoly of Theatricals. — A Negro Festival. +</div> + +<p>The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and +quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even +excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of +Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The +scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes +indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only +procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a +distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from +Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was +through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication +was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends +on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them, +until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers.</p> + +<p>The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of +Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have +never seen equaled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris +colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is +ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are +virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and +double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be +measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical +ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as +ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to +the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much +used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being +curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors +which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was +closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited +by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if +reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple. +Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by +alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a +dull, lustreless gray.</p> + +<p>The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table +extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches +resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus +insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in +the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the +large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block +from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh +sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name +the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the +government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to +pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The +boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the +government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine +lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but +even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost +precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the +Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the +stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting +for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long +suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have +learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make +no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels.</p> + +<p>The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship +of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by +way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the +reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement.</p> + +<p>One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that +of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent +individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a +notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring +and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the +pretentious title of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a +fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any +other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters +to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes +extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans. +With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately +imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even +that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and +to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said +to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having +been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto. +His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have +given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed +a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His +masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of +him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise +and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies +or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired. +Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends +upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is +known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally +turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more +profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to +be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even +to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity, +being stimulated by the excessive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> and unreasonable excise duties +imposed upon the necessities of life.</p> + +<p>When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a +very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal +authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were +practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a +contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in +broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of +the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even +in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on +in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a +determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously +about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent +hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing +their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and +dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first +moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of +smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with +life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and +day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to +little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was +only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the +contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials. +The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely +defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws +failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want +of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> among the shoals +frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was +offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as +pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was +offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be +the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the +authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken +that those who were most interested should be made aware of their +purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too +much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered +to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign +punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The +government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object.</p> + +<p>It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months +subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred. +Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of +the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the +Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening +in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music, +had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and +found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the +stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the +tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between +the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though +bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their +part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure, +wrapped in a half military<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> cloak, might have been observed watching +the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After +observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other +face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes +of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard, +the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without +being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manœuvre, +requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment +the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a +bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the +shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed.</p> + +<p>The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the +gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the +Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a +perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at +the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the +stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as +though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The +drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some +regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered +the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a +large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged +in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised +satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the +new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak, +tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the +perspiration from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise +and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:—</p> + +<p>"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?"</p> + +<p>"One who has important information to impart to the government," was +the quiet reply.</p> + +<p>"But why seek this manner of audience?"</p> + +<p>"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear."</p> + +<p>"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?"</p> + +<p>"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency."</p> + +<p>"But I do mind it very seriously."</p> + +<p>"It can be explained by and by."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your +business here?"</p> + +<p>"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any +information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger. +"Is it not so?"</p> + +<p>"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to +say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly."</p> + +<p>"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise +I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate."</p> + +<p>"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"—</p> + +<p>"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn +state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"—</p> + +<p>"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon."</p> + +<p>"True, but"—</p> + +<p>"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward +involves unconditional pardon to the informant."</p> + +<p>"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the +leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +"Ay."</p> + +<p>"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make."</p> + +<p>"Speak, then."</p> + +<p>"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will +grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you +require?"</p> + +<p>"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor.</p> + +<p>"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have +been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?"</p> + +<p>"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently.</p> + +<p>"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered +the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this +precaution.</p> + +<p>"Even if I were a leader among these men?"</p> + +<p>The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man +before him a searching glance, then said:—</p> + +<p>"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot +our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you +shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card."</p> + +<p>"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully +trust these words, else I should not have ventured here."</p> + +<p>"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious," +continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from +his seat.</p> + +<p>"It is well. I will speak without further parley. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +The man for whom you have offered the largest reward—ay, +dead or alive—is before you!"</p> + +<p>"And you are"—</p> + +<p>"Captain Marti!"</p> + +<p>Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some +lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively +cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his +right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not +unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of +similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the +table, saying:—</p> + +<p>"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the +future, not fighting."</p> + +<p>"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of +thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that, +provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law +demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to +secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added.</p> + +<p>"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"We understand each other then."</p> + +<p>Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a +verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after, +the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement, +with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the +circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers.</p> + +<p>Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the +scene which we have described,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> then, summoning the officer of the +guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved +and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not +made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been +condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid.</p> + +<p>On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay +under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost +activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of +the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully +did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among +the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he +was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage +places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores +were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels +were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one +of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the +would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a +rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few +hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but +still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied +the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous +became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon +was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the +ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look +very deeply into the business, and they believed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> that Marti had +really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him +to his presence and said to Marti:—</p> + +<p>"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am +prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and +unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark +the word <i>past</i> offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new +disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as +though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an +order upon the treasury for the sum"—</p> + +<p>"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back, +and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward.</p> + +<p>"What does this mean?" asked Tacon.</p> + +<p>"Permit me to explain, Excellency."</p> + +<p>"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor.</p> + +<p>"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to +the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal."</p> + +<p>"Speak out. Let us know what it is."</p> + +<p>"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the +money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the +coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with +fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply +compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense, +which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of +twenty-five years shall revert to the government."</p> + +<p>"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the +Governor.</p> + +<p>"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing +to leave.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably +accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought."</p> + +<p>As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw +that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered +that he should always have the man under his control, and so the +proposal was finally accepted and confirmed.</p> + +<p>The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this +extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they +were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and +realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old +business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the +largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the +article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired +for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the +government.</p> + +<p>Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to +see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him +that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in +Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast, +he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the +privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and +best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the +Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of +this monopoly were never made public.</p> + +<p>Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these +are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which +are believed to be authentic.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba, +none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled +the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning +to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful +character, for although he followed out with energy the various +improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were +often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people +generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he +vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built +a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new +roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and +opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus +laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the +formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also +practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical +effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the +gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the +public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement.</p> + +<p>In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting +a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were +formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our +American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude, +arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were +counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed +for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There +was undoubtedly much of right<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> mingled with his wrongs, but if he left +lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many +tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be +throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of +justice—wild justice—prompting him. Some of the stories still +current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case, +while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as +exercised in the contract with Captain Marti.</p> + +<p>On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as +in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration; +indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday +for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each +with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude +African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic +and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks +representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on +dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to +point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one +they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate +way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on +the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead +calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief. +But what it all means except improving a special occasion for +wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will +puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is +but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually +imported<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however, +from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be +remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years.</p> + +<p>The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these +notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under +the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four +miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and +thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two +thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied +upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its +whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two +thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by +springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than +that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English +physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which +has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is +remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary +invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford +good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky +islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition +in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of +precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur, +quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is +reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a month.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">The Havana Lottery. — Its Influence. — Hospitality of the +Cubans. — About Bonnets. — The Creole Lady's Face. — Love +of Flowers. — An Atmospheric Narcotic. — The Treacherous +Indian Fig. — How the Cocoanut is propagated. — Cost of +Living in Cuba. — Spurious Liquors. — A Pleasant Health +Resort. — The Cock-Pit. — Game-Birds. — Their Management. +— A Cuban Cock-Fight. — Garden of the World. — About +Birds. — Stewed Owl! — Slaughter of the Innocents. — The +Various Fruits.</div> + + +<p>There is a regularly organized lottery in Havana, to which the +government lends its name, and which has semi-monthly drawings. These +drawings are made in public, and great care is taken to impress the +people with the idea of their entire fairness. The authorities realize +over a million dollars annually by the tax which is paid into the +treasury on these most questionable enterprises. The lottery is +patronized by high and low, the best mercantile houses devoting a +regular sum monthly to the purchase of tickets on behalf of their +firms. One individual of this class told the writer that no drawing +had taken place within the last ten years at Havana in which the firm +of which he was a member had not been interested to the extent of at +least one doubloon, that is, one whole ticket. The mode usually is, +however, to purchase several fractional parts of tickets, so as to +multiply the chances. On being asked what was the result of the ten +years of speculation in this line, the reply was that the books of the +firm would show, as it was entered therein like any other line of purchases. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> +Curious to find an authentic instance as an example, the +matter was followed up until the result was found. It seemed that this +house had averaged about four hundred dollars per annum expended for +lottery tickets, that is, four thousand dollars in the last ten years. +On the credit side they had received in prizes about nineteen hundred +dollars, making a loss of twenty-one hundred dollars. "But then," +remarked our informant, "we may get a big prize one of these +days,—who knows?"</p> + +<p>The lottery here proves to be as great a curse as it does in Italy, +where its demoralizing effects are more apparent. The poorer classes, +even including the slaves and free negroes, are regular purchasers, +and occasionally a prize is realized among them, which stimulates to +increased ventures. A few years since, some slaves upon a plantation +near Alquizar purchased a single ticket, clubbing together in order to +raise the money. These Africans drew a prize of forty thousand +dollars, which sum was honestly paid to them, and they purchased their +freedom at once, dividing a very pretty amount for each as a capital +to begin business on his own account.</p> + +<p>"And pray what became of those liberated men?" we asked of our +informant. "Singular to say I can tell you," he answered. "Others felt +the same interest you express, and they have been followed in their +subsequent career. There were sixteen of the party, who realized equal +portions of the prize. They were valuable slaves, and paid an average +of fifteen hundred dollars each for their free papers. This left them +a thousand dollars each. Two returned to Africa. Four joined the +insurgents at Santiago, in 1870, and were probably shot. The remainder +drank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> themselves to death in Havana, or died by fevers induced +through intemperate habits." "Did you ever know a man, white or black, +who drew a prize of any large amount, who was not the worse for it +after a short time?" we asked. "Perhaps not," was his honest reply. A +miserable creature came into the vestibule of the Telegrafo Hotel one +day begging. After he had departed we were told that a few years ago +he was possessed of a fortune. "Why is he in this condition?" we +asked. "He was engaged in a good business," said our informant, "drew +a large prize in the lottery, sold out his establishment, and gave +himself up to pleasure, gambling, and drink. That is all that is left +of him now. He has just come out of the hospital, where he was treated +for paralysis."</p> + +<p>Honestly conducted as these lotteries are generally believed to be, +their very stability and the just payment of prizes but makes them the +more baleful and dangerous in their influence upon the public. As +carried on in Havana, the lottery business is the most wholesale mode +of gambling ever witnessed. Though some poor man may become +comparatively wealthy through their means, once in twenty years, yet +in the mean time thousands are impoverished in their mad zeal to +purchase tickets though it cost them the last dollar they possess. The +government thus fosters a taste for gambling and supplies the ready +means, while any one at all acquainted with the Spanish character must +know that the populace need no prompting in a vice to which they seem +to take intuitively. No people, unless it be the Chinese, are so +addicted to all games of chance upon which money can be staked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +Spaniards, and especially Cuban Spaniards, receive credit for being +extremely hospitable, and to a certain extent this is true; but one +soon learns to regard the extravagant manifestations which so often +characterize their domestic etiquette as rather empty and heartless. +Let a stranger enter the house of a Cuban for the first time, +especially if he be a foreigner, and the host or hostess of the +mansion at once places all things they possess at his service, yet no +one thinks for a single moment of interpreting this offer literally. +The family vehicle is at your order, or the loan of a saddle horse, +and in such small kindnesses they are always generous; but when they +beg you to accept a ring, a book, or a valuable toy, because you have +been liberal in your praise of the article, you are by no means to do +so. Another trait of character which suggests itself in this +connection is the universal habit of profuse compliment common among +Cuban ladies. Flattery is a base coin at best, but it is current here. +The ladies listen to these compliments as a matter of course from +their own countrymen or such Frenchmen as have settled among them, but +if an American takes occasion to express his honest admiration to a +Creole, her delight is at once manifest. Both the French and Spanish +are extremely gallant to the gentler sex, but it requires no argument +to show that woman under either nationality is far less esteemed and +honored than she is with us in America.</p> + +<p>The bonnet, which forms so important a part of a lady's costume in +Europe and America, is rarely worn by the Creoles, and strangers who +appear on the streets of Havana with the latest fashion of this ever +varying article are regarded with curiosity, though so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> many American +and English ladies visit the island annually. In place of a bonnet, +when any covering is considered desirable for the head, the Cuban +ladies generally wear a long black veil, richly wrought, and gathered +at the back of the head upon the clustered braid of hair, which is +always black and luxuriant. More frequently, however, even this +appendage is not seen, and they drive in the Paseo or through the +streets with their heads entirely uncovered, save by the sheltering +hood of the victoria. When necessity calls them abroad in the early or +middle hours of the day, there is generally a canvas screen buttoned +to the dasher and extended to the top of the calash, to shut out the +too ardent rays of the sun. Full dress, on all state occasions, is +black, but white is universally worn by the ladies in domestic life, +forming a rich contrast to the olive complexions of the women. +Sometimes in the Paseo, when enjoying the evening drive, these fair +creatures indulge in strange contrasts of colors in dress. They also +freely make use of a cosmetic called cascarilla, made from eggshells +finely powdered and mixed with the white of the egg. This forms an +adhesive paste, with which they at times enamel themselves, so that +faces and necks that are naturally dark resemble those of persons who +are white as pearls.</p> + +<p>There is one indispensable article, without which a Cuban lady would +feel herself absolutely lost. The fan is a positive necessity to her, +and she learns its coquettish and graceful use from childhood. Formed +of various rich materials, it glitters in her tiny hand like a gaudy +butterfly, now half, now wholly shading her radiant face, which +quickly peeps out again from behind its shelter, like the moon from +out a passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> cloud. This little article, always costly, sometimes +very expensive, in her hand seems in its eloquence of motion almost to +speak. She has a witching flirt with it that expresses scorn; a +graceful wave of complacence; an abrupt closing of it that indicates +vexation or anger; a gradual and cautious opening of its folds that +signifies reluctant forgiveness; in short, the language of the fan in +the hand of a Cuban lady is a wonderfully adroit and expressive +pantomime that requires no interpreter, for, like the Chinese written +language, it cannot be spoken.</p> + +<p>It may be the prodigality of nature in respect to Flora's kingdom +which has retarded the development of a love for flowers among the +people of the island. Doubtless if Maréchal Niel roses, Jacqueminots, +jonquils, and lilies of the valley were as abundant with us in every +field as clover, dandelions, and buttercups, we should hardly regard +them with so much delight as we do. It is not common to see flowers +under cultivation as they are at the North. They spring up too readily +in a wild state from the fertile soil. One cannot pass over half a +league on an inland road without his senses being regaled and +delighted by the natural floral fragrance, heliotrope, honeysuckle, +sweet pea, and orange blossoms predominating. The jasmine and Cape +rose, though less fragrant, are delightful to the eye, and cluster +everywhere among the hedges, groves, and coffee estates. There is a +blossoming shrub, the native name of which we do not remember, but +which is remarkable for its multitudinous crimson flowers, so +seductive to the humming-birds that they hover about it all day long, +burying themselves in its blossoms until petal and wing seem one. At +first upright, a little later the gorgeous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> bells droop downward and +fall to the ground unwithered, being poetically called Cupid's tears. +Flowers abound here which are only known to us in our hothouses, whose +brilliant colors, like those of the cactus, scarlet, yellow, and blue, +are quite in harmony with the surroundings, where everything is aglow. +There was pointed out to us a specimen of the frangipanni, a tall and +nearly leafless plant bearing a milk-white flower, and resembling the +tuberose in fragrance, but in form much like our Cherokee rose. This +plant, it will be remembered, was so abundant and so pleasant to the +senses as to attract the attention of the early explorers who +accompanied Columbus across the sea.</p> + +<p>There seems to be at times a strange narcotic influence in the +atmosphere of the island, realized more especially inland, where the +visitor is partially removed from the winds which commonly blow from +the Gulf in the after part of the day. So potent has the writer felt +this influence that at first it was supposed to be the effect of some +powerful and medicinal plant abounding in the neighborhood; but on +inquiry it was found that this delightful sense of ease and indolent +luxuriousness was not an unusual experience, particularly among +strangers, and was solely attributable to the narcotic of the soft +climate. By gently yielding to this influence one seemed to dream +while awake, and though the sense of hearing is diminished, that of +the olfactories appears to be increased, and pleasant odors float on +every passing breeze. One feels at peace with all human nature, and a +sense of voluptuous ease overspreads the body. Others have experienced +and remarked upon this sensation of idle happiness. The only +unpleasant realizing sense during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> the enjoyment of this condition is +the fear that some human voice, or some chance noise, loud and abrupt, +may arouse the dreamer from his trance.</p> + +<p>Specimens of the Indian fig, as it is called here, will be sure to +attract the visitor's eye on his inland excursions. It clasps, +entwines, and finally, serpent-like, kills the loftiest forest +monarchs, and taking their place, firmly roots itself and becomes a +stately tree, fattening upon its ill-gotten possession. Its unfading +leaf of vivid green is beautiful to look upon, in spite of its known +and treacherous character. In many respects it typifies the Spanish +discoverers of this beautiful isle, who gradually possessed themselves +of its glorious heritage by the destruction of its legitimate owners.</p> + +<p>The manner in which that prolific tree, the cocoanut palm, is +propagated was a curious and interesting study for a leisure hour, the +germination having been with us heretofore an unsolved riddle. Within +the hard shell of the nut, among the mass of rich creamy substance, +near the large end, is a small white lump like the stalk of a young +mushroom, called the ovule. This little finger-like germ of the future +tree gradually forces itself through one of the three eyes always to +be found on the cocoanut. What giant power is concealed within that +tiny ovule, apparently so soft and insignificant! Having pierced its +way through the first shell, it then gradually rends the outer coat of +fibrous covering and curves upward towards the light. Into the inner +shell which it has vacated, it throws little fibrous threads which +slowly absorb the albumen, and thus sustain its new life as it rapidly +develops. First a few leaves grow upward, which from the very outset +begin to assume the pinnate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> form of the cocoanut leaf, while, +stretching earthward, a myriad of little threads of roots bury +themselves in the ground. Though the tree will grow to a height of +sixty feet or more, these roots will never individually exceed the +size of the fingers on one's hand. In five or six years the tree will +produce its first cluster of cocoanuts, and for several years will go +on increasing in fruitfulness and yielding a bountiful crop for fifty +or sixty years. It was a constant wonder how these cocoanut trees +could sustain an upright position with such a weight of ripening fruit +clustered beneath the shade of their tufted tops.</p> + +<p>As regards the cost of living in the island, it may be said to average +higher to the stranger than in the United States. At the city hotels +and large boarding houses the charge is modified from four or five +dollars per day; if a special bargain is made for a considerable +period, it is customary to give a reduction on transient rates of ten +or fifteen per cent. Among the small towns in the interior, at the +houses of entertainment, which are wretchedly poor as a rule, the +charges are exorbitant, and strangers are looked upon as fair game. +This, however, is no more so than in continental Europe, where, though +the accommodations are better, the general treatment is the same. The +luscious and healthful fruits of the country form a large share of the +provisions of the table in Cuba, and are always freely provided. A +fair quality of claret wine, imported from Spain, is also regularly +placed before the guest free of charge, it being the ordinary drink of +the people; but beware of calling for other wines, and particularly +champagne, unless you are prepared to be swindled by the price charged +in your bill. Of course you get only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> imitation champagne,—that is to +be expected; you do the same nearly everywhere. There is not enough +pure champagne manufactured in Europe to supply the Paris and London +markets alone. The mode of cooking is very similar to the French, plus +the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime +necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba, +however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table +which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content +to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the +curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to +compensate for many small annoyances.</p> + +<p>One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on +the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated +about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by +rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that +between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the +result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over +nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently +demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The +water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly +depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three +or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines +is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on +the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by +Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary +for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is +impossible to find in the metropolis.</p> + +<p>Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious +place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives +indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling +combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds +become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could +not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other +in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as +long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and +the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of +gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these +contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being +reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted +priest, as eager in the result as the professionals themselves. The +cock-pit is a circular building, thirty or forty feet in diameter, +resembling on the outside a huge haystack. The size, however, is +regulated according to the population of the immediate neighborhood. +The seats are raised in a circle, one above another, about a central +ring in which the contest takes place. The ground is covered with +sawdust or tan. The birds are of a native game breed, and are subject +from chickenhood to a peculiar course of treatment. The English +game-cock is prized here only for crossing with the native breed. He +cannot equal the Spanish bird in the necessary qualities of pluck and +endurance.</p> + +<p>The food of the game-cock when in training is regulated with great +care, carefully weighed, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> certain number of ounces is given to +him three times a day, so that the bird, like a race-horse, is never +permitted to grow fat, but is kept in what is called fighting +condition. Some days before a contest they are fed with a few ounces +of raw meat once during the twenty-four hours, which, being kept +always a little hungry, they devour with avidity. Greater care as to +diet and exercise could not be taken by pugilists training for a +conflict. The feathers of these fighting-cocks are closely cropped in +a jaunty style; the neck and head, to the length of three inches, is +completely plucked of all feathers, the comb being trimmed close to +the crown. The flesh which is thus left bare is daily rubbed with rum +until it becomes hardened and calloused. Brief encounters are +permitted among them under proper restrictions, when they are young. +No fear is felt that they will seriously injure each other, until they +are old enough to have the sharp steel gaffs affixed upon the spurs +with which nature has supplied them. Then, like men armed with sword +and dagger, they attack each other with fatal earnestness, making the +blood flow at every stroke. It is singular that the birds are so +determined upon the fight that no amount of loud cries, or challenges +between the betters, or jeers by the excited audience, disturbs them +in the least.</p> + +<p>The author witnessed one of these exhibitions at Guines. The +fighting-ring of the cock-pit was some twelve feet in diameter, the +seating capacity being arranged for about a hundred persons or more, +and each bench was fully occupied. The two birds pitted against each +other were carefully weighed, and the result was announced to the +audience. They were then passed in review, held in the hands of their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +respective owners, and betting at once commenced as to which would +win the victory. In the mean time the two birds seemed quietly +awaiting their time, and by the knowing way in which both surveyed the +surroundings and the assembled people, they really appeared as if they +understood the business in hand. There was no struggling on their part +to get out of the hands of those who held them. Presently they were +passed into the care of the umpires, two of whom officiated, and who +then affixed the steel gaffs to the spurs of the contestants. The two +birds were then placed on the ground inside of the ring, opposite each +other. No sooner did they feel themselves fairly on their feet than +both crowed triumphantly, eying each other with fell intent.</p> + +<p>Then commenced a series of bird-tactics, each partially advancing and +pretending to retreat as if to draw on his antagonist, pecking the +while at imaginary kernels of corn on the ground. In the mean time the +audience almost held its breath in anticipation of the cunningly +deferred onset. Presently the two birds, as if by one impulse, rushed +towards each other, and a simultaneous attack took place. The contest, +when the birds are armed with steel gaffs, rarely lasts more than +eight or ten minutes before one or both are so injured as to end the +fight. The money staked upon the fight is won by those backing the +bird which survives, or is longest in dying. When the artificial spurs +are not used, and the birds fight in their natural state, the battle +sometimes lasts for an hour, but is always fatal in the end to one or +the other, or both. Eyes are pecked out, wings and legs broken, necks +pierced again and again; still they fight on until death ensues. +During the fight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> the excitement is intense, and a babel of voices +reigns within the structure, the betting being loud, rapid, and high. +Thus in a small way the cock-fight is as cruel and as demoralizing as +that other national game, the terrible bull-fight, indigenous to Spain +and her colonies.</p> + +<p>Cuba has justly been called the garden of the world, perpetual summer +smiling upon its shores, and its natural wealth and possibilities +baffling even the imagination. The waters which surround it, as we +have seen, abound with a variety of fishes, whose bright colors, +emulating the tints of precious stones and the prismatic hues of the +rainbow, astonish and delight the eye of the stranger. Stately and +peculiar trees enliven the picturesque landscape. Throughout the woods +and groves flit a variety of birds, whose dazzling colors defy the +palette of the artist. Here the loquacious parrot utters his harsh +natural notes; there the red flamingo watches by the shore of the +lagoon, the waters dyed by the reflection of his scarlet plumage. It +would require a volume to describe the vegetable and animal kingdom of +Cuba, but among the most familiar birds are the golden robin, the +bluebird, the catbird, the Spanish woodpecker, the gaudy-plumed +paroquet, and the pedoreva, with its red throat and breast and its +pea-green head and body. There is also a great variety of wild +pigeons, blue, gray, and white; the English lady-bird, with a blue +head, scarlet breast, and green and white back; the indigo-bird, the +golden-winged woodpecker, the ibis, and many smaller species, like the +humming-bird. Of this latter family there are said to be sixty +different varieties, each sufficiently individualized in size and +other peculiarities to be easily identified by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> ornithologists. Some +of these birds are actually no larger in body than butterflies, and +with not so large a spread of wing. A humming-bird's nest, composed of +cotton interlaced with horse-hair, was shown the author at Buena +Esperanza, a plantation near Guines. It was about twice the size of a +lady's thimble, and contained two eggs, no larger than common peas. +The nest was a marvel of perfection, the cotton being bound cunningly +and securely together by the long horse-hairs, of which there were not +more than three or four. Human fingers could not have done it so +deftly. Probably the bird that built the nest and laid the eggs did +not weigh, all fledged, over half an ounce! Parrots settle on the sour +orange trees when the fruit is ripe, and fifty may be secured by a net +at a time. The Creoles stew and eat them as we do pigeons; the flesh +is tough, and as there are plenty of fine water-fowl and marsh birds +about the lagoons as easily procured, one is at a loss to account for +the taste that leads to eating parrots. The brown pelican is seen in +great numbers sailing lazily over the water and dipping for fish.</p> + +<p>Strange is the ubiquity of the crows; one sees them in middle India, +China, and Japan. They ravage our New England cornfields, and in +Ceylon,—equatorial Ceylon,—they absolutely swarm. When one, +therefore, finds them saucy, noisy, thieving, even in Cuba, it is not +surprising that the fact should be remarked upon, though here the +species differs somewhat from those referred to, being known as the +Jack-crow or turkey-buzzard. In the far East, like the vulture, the +crow is considered a natural scavenger or remover of carrion, and the +same excuse is made for him in Cuba and Florida. But is he not more of a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +freebooter and feathered bandit,—in short, a prowling thief +generally? Nature has few birds or animals upon her varied list with +which we would find fault, but the crow,—well, having nothing to say +in its favor, let us drop the subject. Parrots, paroquets, tiny indigo +birds, pedorevas, and robins,—yes, these are all in harmony with +mingled fragrance and sunshine, but the coal-black crow, with his bad +habits and hoarse bird-profanity, bah! When these West Indian islands +were first settled by Spanish emigrants, they were the home of myriads +of birds of every tropical variety, but to-day the feathered beauties +and merry songsters have been entirely driven away from some of the +smaller islands, and decimated on others, by the demand for bird's +wings with which to deck ladies' bonnets in Europe and America. +Sportsmen have found it profitable to visit the tropics solely for the +purpose of shooting these rainbow-colored creatures for ornaments. +Aside from the loss to general interest and beauty in nature caused by +this wholesale destruction of the feathered tribe, another and quite +serious result has been the consequence. A plague of vermin has +followed the withdrawal of these little insect-killers. It is so +natural to look for them amid such luxuriant vegetation that they +become conspicuous by their absence. Now and again, however, the ears +are gratefully saluted by the trilling and sustained notes of some +hidden songster, whose music is entirely in tune with the surrounding +loveliness, but truly delightful song-birds have ever been rare in the +low latitudes, where there is more of color than song.</p> + +<p>Those agriculturists who possess sufficient means confine themselves +solely to the raising of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, the former +principally employing capital. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +Indian corn, which the first settlers +found indigenous here, is quite neglected, and when raised at all it +is used before ripening, almost universally, as green fodder; very +little is ripened and gathered as grain. It is found that horses and +cattle can be kept in good condition and strength, while performing +the usual labor required of them, by feeding them on a liberal +allowance of cornstalks, given in the green state, before the corn has +begun to form on the cob. The Cubans will tell you that the nourishing +principle which forms the grain is in the stalk and leaves, and if fed +in that state before ripening further, the animals obtain all the +sustaining properties which they require. The climate is particularly +adapted to the raising of oranges, but there is very little attention +given to propagating this universally popular fruit, more especially +since the increased production which has taken place on the other side +of the Gulf Stream in Florida. Three years after the seed of this +fruit is deposited in suitable soil in Cuba the tree becomes ten or +twelve feet in height, and in the fourth year rarely produces less +than a hundred oranges, while at ten years of age it commonly bears +three and four thousand, thus proving, with proper care, extremely +profitable. It will be remembered that it is the longest lived of +succulent fruit trees. There are specimens still extant in Cuba known +to be one hundred years old. The oranges produced in Florida are of +equally good quality, and bring a better price in the market, but the +crop is subject to more contingencies and liability to loss than in +Cuba. The frost not infrequently ruins a whole season's yield in the +peninsula in one or two severe nights, while frost is never +experienced upon the island.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +It seems unreasonable that when the generous, fruitful soil of Cuba is +capable of producing two or three crops of vegetables annually, the +agricultural wealth of the island should be so poorly developed. +Thousands upon thousands of acres of fertile soil are still in their +virgin condition. It is capable of supporting a population of almost +any density,—certainly from eight to ten millions of people might +find goodly homes here, and yet the largest estimate at the present +time gives only a million and a half of inhabitants. When one treads +the fertile soil and beholds the clustering fruits in such abundance, +the citron, the star-apple, the perfumed pineapple, the luscious +banana, and other fruits for which our language has no name, not +forgetting the various noble woods which caused Columbus to exclaim +with pleasure, and to mention the palm and the pine growing together, +characteristic types of Arctic and equatorial vegetation, we are +struck with the thought of how much Providence and how little man has +done for this Eden of the Gulf. We long to see it peopled by men who +can appreciate the gifts of nature, men who are willing to do their +part in recognition of her fruitfulness and who will second her +spontaneous bounty.</p> + +<p>Nowhere on the face of the globe would well-directed, intelligent +labor meet with a richer reward, nowhere would repose from labor be so +sweet. The hour of rest here sinks upon the face of nature with a +peculiar charm; the night breeze, in never-failing regularity, comes +with its gentle wing to fan the weary frame, and no danger lurks in +its breath. It has free scope through the unglazed windows, and +blowing fresh from the broad surface of the Mexican Gulf, it bears a +goodly tonic to the system. Beautifully blue<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> are the heavens and +festally bright the stars of a tropical night, where familiar +constellations greet us with brighter radiance and new ones charm the +eye with their novelty. Preëminent in brilliancy among them is the +Southern Cross, a galaxy of stars that never greets us in the North. +At midnight its glittering framework stands erect. That solemn hour +past the Cross declines. How glorious the nights where such a heavenly +sentinel indicates the watches! "How often have we heard our guides +exclaim in the savannas of Venezuela," says Humboldt, "or in the +deserts extending from Lima to Truxillo, 'Midnight is past, the Cross +begins to bend.'" Cuba is indeed a land of enchantment, where nature +is beautiful and bountiful, and where mere existence is a luxury, but +it requires the infusion of a sterner, a more self-reliant, +self-denying and enterprising race to test its capabilities and to +astonish the world with its productiveness.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Traveling by Volante. — Want of Inland Communication. — +Americans Profitable Customers. — The Cruel National Game. +— The Plaza de Toros. — Description of a Bull-Fight. — The +Infection of Cruelty. — The Romans and Spaniards Compared. +— Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" — Women at the +Fight. — The Nobility of the Island. —The Monteros. — +Ignorance of the Common People. — Scenes in the Central +Market, Havana. — Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. — An Original +Style of Dude. — A Mendicant Prince. +</div> + +<p>The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only +one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of. +It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches +are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present +notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique +vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its +extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the +peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At +first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards +in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to +ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is +most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the +deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently +its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every +impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is very +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> +light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When +traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast +of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and +traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the +left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the +vehicle.</p> + +<p>If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and +there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often +added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the +shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the +calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great +pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented +for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes +even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed +negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or +silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the +knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more +especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the +freight.</p> + +<p>Were it not for the few railroads and steamboat routes which are +maintained, communication between the several parts of the island +would be almost impossible. During the rainy season especially, inland +travel is impracticable for wheels. China or Central Africa is equally +well off in this respect. Nearly all transportation, except it be on +the line of the railroads, is accomplished on mule-back, or on the +little Cuban horses. The fact is, road making is yet to be introduced +into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in +the environs of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed +of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in +America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the +island than this absence of means for internal communication. In +Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford +facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was +first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most +bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was +the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of +property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city +proper.</p> + +<p>One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the +traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon +him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the +government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a +considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps +visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to +desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such +idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in +Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority. +Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor +desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh +permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show +your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which +you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says +it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at +police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> is quite as +uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must +hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the +contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are +sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your +correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well +as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the +receipt thereof.</p> + +<p>Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight +is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its +indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibitions are given at +Havana on each recurring Sunday afternoon, the same day that is chosen +for the brutal sport in Madrid and other Spanish peninsular cities. +The arena devoted to this purpose will seat about ten thousand +persons. The ground upon which the fight takes place occupies about an +acre, and is situated on the Regla side of the harbor, in the Plaza de +Toros. The seats are raised one above another, in a complete circle, +at a secure height from the dangerous struggle. Sometimes, in his +furious onslaughts, the bull throws himself completely over the stout +boards which separate him from the spectators, when a wild stampede +occurs.</p> + +<p>On the occasion of the fight witnessed by the author, after a shrill +flourish of trumpets a large bull was let loose from apartments +beneath the seats, the door of which opened into the arena. The poor +creature came from utter darkness, where he had been kept for many +hours, into a blaze of bright sunlight, which confused him for a +moment, and he pawed the ground excitedly, while he rolled his big +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +fierce eyeballs as though he suspected some trick had been played upon +him. Presently, having become accustomed to the light, he glared from +one side to the other as if to take in the situation, and see who it +was that dared to oppose him.</p> + +<p>In the ring, distributed here and there, were some half a dozen +professional fighters on foot, called banderilleros and chulos, +besides which there were two on horseback, known as picadors. The +former held scarlet flags in their hands, with which to confuse and +tease the bull; the latter were armed with a long pole each, at the +end of which was a sharp piece of steel capable of wounding the bull, +but not deeply or dangerously. These fighters were a hardened set of +villains, if the human countenance can be relied upon as showing forth +the inner man. They rushed towards the animal and flaunted their flags +before his eyes, striving to excite and draw him on to attack them. +They seemed reckless, but very expert, agile, and wary. Every effort +was made to worry and torment the bull to a state of frenzy. Barbs +were thrust into his neck and back by the banderilleros, with small +rockets attached. These exploded into his very flesh, which they +burned and tore. Thrusts from the horsemen's spears also gave harsh, +if not dangerous wounds, so that the animal bled freely at many +points.</p> + +<p>When the infuriated beast made a rush at one of his tormentors, they +adroitly sprang on one side, or, if too closely pressed, these +practiced athletes with a handspring leaped over the high board fence. +Whichever way he turned the bull met a fresh enemy and another device +of torment, until at last the poor creature was frantically mad. The +fight then became<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> more earnest, the bull rushing first at one and +then another of his enemies, but the practiced fighters were too wary +for him; he could not change position so quickly as they could. +Finally, the bull turned his attention to the horses and made madly +first at the one which was nearest, and though he received a tearing +wound along his spine from the horseman's spear, he ripped the horse's +bowels open with his horns and threw him upon the ground, with his +rider under him. The men on foot rushed to the rescue and drew off the +bull by fresh attacks and by flaunting the flags before his eyes. In +the mean time, the rider was got out from beneath the horse, which lay +dying. The bull, finding that he could revenge himself on the horses, +transferred his attention to the other and threw him to the ground +with his rider, but received another long wound upon his own back. +Leaving the two horses lying nearly dead, the bull again turned upon +the banderilleros, rushing with such headlong speed at them that he +buried his sharp horns several inches in the timbers of the fence. It +was even a struggle for him to extract them. The purpose is not to +give the bull any fatal wounds, but to worry and torment him to the +last degree of endurance. This struggle was kept up for twenty minutes +or more, when the poor creature, bleeding from a hundred wounds, +seemed nearly exhausted. Then, at a sign from the director, there was +a grand flourish of trumpets, and the matador, a skillful swordsman +and the hero of the occasion, entered the ring to close with the bull, +singly. The other fighters withdrew and the matador advanced with a +scarlet flag in one hand and his naked sword in the other. The bull +stood at bay, too much worn by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> the fight and loss of blood to +voluntarily attack this single enemy. The matador advanced and lured +him to an attack by flaunting his flag. A few feeble rushes were made +by the bleeding animal, until, in a last effort to drive his horns +into this new enemy, he staggered heavily forward. This time the +matador did not leap to one side, but received the bull upon the point +of his Toledo blade, which was aimed at a spot just back of the horns, +where the brain meets the spinal column. As the bull comes on with his +head bent down to the charge, this spot is exposed, and forms a fair +target for a practiced hand. The effect was electrical. The bull +staggered, reeled from side to side for an instant, and then fell +dead. Four bulls were destroyed in a like manner that afternoon, and, +in their gallant fight for their lives, they killed seven horses, +trampling their riders in two instances almost fatally, though they +are protected by a sort of leather armor on their limbs and body. +During the fight with the second bull, which was an extremely fierce +and powerful creature, a young girl of eighteen dressed in male +attire, who was trained to the brutal business, took an active part in +the arena with the banderilleros. One remarkable feat which she +performed was that of leaping by means of a pole completely over the +bull when he was charging at her. At Madrid, where the author +witnessed a similar exhibition, the introduction of a young girl among +the fighters was omitted, but otherwise the performance was nearly +identical. At the close of each act of the murderous drama, six horses +gayly caparisoned with bells and plumes dashed into the arena led by +attendants, and chains being attached to the bodies of the dead +animals, they were drawn out <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>at great speed through a gate opened for +the purpose, amid another flourish of trumpets and the shouts of the +excited multitude.</p> + +<p>The worst of all this is that the influence of such outrageous cruelty +is lasting. It infects the beholders with a like spirit. In fact, it +is contagious. We all know how hard the English people became in the +time of Henry VIII. and Bloody Mary.</p> + +<p>In this struggle of the bull ring there is no gallantry or true +bravery displayed on the part of the professional fighters. They run +but little personal risk, practiced as they are, sheltered and +protected by artificial means and armed with keen weapons, whereas the +bull has only his horns to protect himself from his many tormentors. +There is no possible escape for him; his fate is sealed from the +moment he enters the ring. All the true bravery exhibited is on his +part; he is always the attacking party, and were the exhibition to be +attempted in an open field, even armed as they are, he would drive +every one of his enemies out of sight. The much-lauded matador does +not take his position in front of the animal until it is very nearly +exhausted by loss of blood and long-continued, furious fighting. In +our estimation, he encounters far less risk than does the humblest of +the banderilleros or chulos, who torment the bull face to face in the +fullness of his physical strength and courage. Still, instances are +not wanting wherein these matadors have been seriously wounded and +even killed by a frantic and dying bull, who has roused himself for a +last final struggle.</p> + +<p>Whatever colonial modification the Spanish character may have +apparently undergone in Cuba, the Creole is Castilian still in his +love for the cruel sports <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>of the arena. Great is the similitude also +between the modern Spaniard and the ancient Roman in this respect. As +the Spanish language more closely resembles Latin than does the +Italian, so do the Spanish people show more of Roman blood than the +natives of Italy themselves. <i>Panem et circenses</i> (bread and +circuses!) was the cry of the old Roman populace, and to gratify their +wishes millions of sesterces were lavished, and hecatombs of human +victims slain in the splendid amphitheatres erected by the masters of +the world in all the cities subject to their sway. And so <i>pan y +toros</i> (bread and bulls!) is the imperious demand of the Spaniards, to +which the government is forced to respond. The parallel may be pursued +still further. The proudest ladies of Rome, maids and matrons, gazed +with liveliest interest upon the dying gladiators who hewed each other +in pieces, or on the Christians who perished in conflict with the wild +beasts, half starved to give them battle. So the señoras and señoritas +of Madrid, Seville, Malaga, and Havana enjoy, with keen delight, the +terrible spectacle of bulls slaughtered by picadors and matadors, and +gallant horses ripped up and disemboweled by the horns of their brute +adversaries. It is true that the ameliorating spirit of Christianity +is evinced in the changes which the arena has undergone. Human lives +are no longer designedly sacrificed wholesale in the bloody contests, +yet the bull-fight is sufficiently barbarous and atrocious. It is a +national institution, indicative of national character.</p> + +<p>To look upon the serenity of Cuban ladies, driving in the Paseo or +listening to the nightly music in the Plaza de Isabella, one could not +possibly imagine them to be lacking in tenderness, or that there was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +in them sufficient hardihood to witness such exhibitions as we have +described, and yet one third of the audience on the occasion spoken of +was composed of the gentler sex. They are almost universally handsome, +being rather below the average height of the sex with us, but +possessing an erect and dignified carriage. Their form, always rounded +to a delicate fullness, is quite perfection in point of model. Their +dark hair and olive complexions are well matched,—the latter without +a particle of natural carmine. The eyes are a match for the hair, +being large and beautifully expressive, with a most irresistible dash +of languor in them,—but not the languor of illness. It is really +difficult to conceive of an ugly woman with such eyes as they all +possess in Cuba,—the Moorish, Andalusian eye. The Cuban women have +also been justly famed for their graceful carriage, and it is indeed +the poetry of motion, singular as it may appear, when it is remembered +that for them to walk abroad is such a rarity. It is not the simple +progressive motion alone, but also the harmonious play of features, +the coquettish undulation of the face, the exquisite disposition of +costume, and the modulation of voice, that engage the beholder and +lend a happy charm to every attitude and every step.</p> + +<p>The gentlemen as a rule are good-looking, though they are much +smaller, lighter, and more agile than the average American. The lazy +life they so universally lead tends to make them less manly than a +more active one would do. It seems to be a rule among them never to do +for themselves that which a slave can do for them. This is +demonstrated in the style of the volante, where the small horse is +made not only to draw the vehicle, but also to carry a large <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>negro on +his back as driver. Now, if reins were used, there would be no +occasion for the postilion at all, but a Spaniard or Creole would +think it demeaning to drive his own vehicle. With abundance of +leisure, and the ever present influences of their genial clime, where +the heart's blood leaps more swiftly to the promptings of the +imagination and where the female form earliest attains its maturity, +the West Indians seem peculiarly adapted for romance and for love. The +consequent adventures constantly occurring among them often culminate +in startling tragedies, and afford plots in which a French +feuilletonist would revel.</p> + +<p>The nobility of Cuba, so called, is composed of rather homespun +material, to say the least, of it. There may be some fifty individuals +dubbed with the title of marquis, and as many more with that of count, +most of whom have acquired their wealth and position by carrying on +extensive sugar plantations. These are sneeringly designated by the +humble classes as sugar noblemen, and not inappropriately so, as +nearly all of these aristocratic gentlemen have purchased their titles +outright for money. Not the least consideration is exercised by the +Spanish throne as to the fitness of these ambitious individuals for +honorary distinction. It is a mere question of money, and if this be +forthcoming the title follows as a natural sequence. Twenty-five +thousand dollars will purchase any title. Such things are done in +other lands, but not quite so openly. And yet the tone of Cuban +society in its higher circles is found to be rather aristocratic and +exclusive. The native of Old Spain does not endeavor to conceal his +contempt for foreigners of all classes, and as to the Creoles, he simply +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +scorns to meet them on social grounds, shielding his +inferiority of intelligence under a cloak of hauteur, assuming the +wings of the eagle, but possessing only the eyes of the owl. Thus the +Castilians and Creoles are ever at antagonism, both socially and +politically. The bitterness of feeling existing between them can +hardly be exaggerated. The sugar planter, the coffee planter, the +merchant, and the liberal professions stand in the order in which we +have named them, as regards their relative degree of social +importance, but wealth, in fact, has the same charm here as elsewhere +in Christendom, and the millionaire has the entrée to all classes.</p> + +<p>The Monteros or yeomanry of the island inhabit the less cultivated and +cheaper portions of the soil, entering the cities only to dispose of +their surplus produce, and acting as the marketmen of the populous +districts. When they stir abroad, in nearly all parts of the island, +they are armed with a sword, and in the eastern sections about +Santiago, or even Cienfuegos, they also carry pistols in the holsters +of their saddles. Formerly this was indispensable for self-protection, +but at this time weapons are more rarely worn. Still the arming of the +Monteros has always been encouraged by the authorities, as they form a +sort of militia at all times available against negro insurrection, a +calamity in fear of which such communities must always live. The +Montero is rarely a slaveholder, but is frequently engaged on the +sugar plantations during the busy season as an overseer, and, to his +discredit be it said, he generally proves to be a hard taskmaster, +entertaining an intuitive dislike to the negroes.</p> + +<p>An evidence of the contagious character of cruelty <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>was given in a +circumstance coming under the author's observation on a certain +plantation at Alquizar, where a manifest piece of severity led him to +appeal to the proprietor in behalf of a female slave. The request for +mercy was promptly granted, and the acting overseer, himself a +mulatto, was quietly reprimanded for his cruelty. "You will find," +said our host, "that colored men always make the hardest masters when +placed over their own race, but they have heretofore been much +employed on the island in this capacity, because a sense of pride +makes them faithful to the proprietor's interest. That man is himself +a slave," he added, pointing to the sub-overseer, who still stood +among the negroes, whip in hand.</p> + +<p>The Montero sometimes hires a free colored man to help him in the +planting season on his little patch of vegetable garden, in such work +as a Yankee would do for himself, but these small farmers trust mostly +to the exuberant fertility of the soil, and spare themselves all +manual labor, save that of gathering the produce and taking it to +market. They form, nevertheless, a very important and interesting +class of the population. They marry very young, the girls at thirteen +and fifteen, the young men from sixteen to eighteen, and almost +invariably rear large families. Pineapples and children are a +remarkably sure crop in the tropics. The increase among them during +the last half century has been very large, much more in proportion +than in any other class of the community, and they seem to be +approaching a degree of importance, at least numerically, which will +render them eventually like the American farmers, the bone and sinew +of the land. There is room enough for them <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>and to spare, for hardly +more than one tenth of the land is under actual cultivation, a vast +portion being still covered by virgin forests and uncleared savannas. +The great and glaring misfortune—next to that of living under a +government permitting neither civil nor religious liberty, where +church and state are alike debased as the tools of despotism,—is +their want of educational facilities. Books and schools they have +none. Barbarism itself is scarcely less cultured. We were told that +the people had of late been somewhat aroused from this condition of +lethargy concerning education, and some effort has recently been made +among the more intelligent to afford their children opportunities for +instruction. But at the present writing, the Egyptian fellah is not +more ignorant than the rural population of Cuba, who as a mass possess +all the indolence and few of the virtues of the aborigines.</p> + +<p>There is one highly creditable characteristic evinced by the Monteros +as a class, and that is their temperate habits in regard to indulgence +in stimulating drinks. As a beverage they do not use ardent spirits, +and seem to have no taste or desire for the article, though they drink +the ordinary claret—rarely anything stronger. This applies to the +country people, not to the residents of the cities. The latter quickly +contract the habit of gin drinking, as already described. There is one +prominent vice to which the Monteros are indisputably addicted; +namely, that of gambling. It seems to be a natural as well as a +national trait, the appliances for which are so constantly at hand in +the form of lottery tickets and the cock-pits that they can hardly +escape the baleful influences. There are some who possess sufficient +strength of character and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>intelligence to avoid it altogether, but +with the majority it is the regular resort for each leisure hour. One +of their own statesmen, Castelar, told the Spaniards, not long since, +that gambling was the tax laid upon fools.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the best place at which to study the appearance and character +of the Monteros is at the Central Market, where they come daily by +hundreds from the country in the early morning to sell their produce, +accompanied by long lines of mules or horses with well-laden panniers. +It is a motley crowd that one meets there, where purchasers and +salesmen mingle promiscuously. From six to nine o'clock, <span class='smcap'>a. m.</span>, it is +the busiest place in all Havana. Negroes and mulattoes, Creoles and +Spaniards, Chinamen and Monteros, men and women, beggars, purchasers, +and slaves, all come to the market on the Calzada de la Reina. Here +the display of fruits and vegetables is something marvelous, both in +variety and in picturesqueness of arrangement. This locality is the +natural resort of the mendicants, who pick up a trifle in the way of +provisions from one and another, as people who do not feel disposed to +bestow money will often give food to the indigent. This market was the +only place in the city where it was possible to purchase flowers, but +here one or two humble dealers came at early morn to dispose of such +buds and blossoms as they found in demand. A blind Chinese coolie was +found sitting on the sidewalk every morning, at the corner of the +Calzada de la Reina, just opposite the market, and he elicited a +trifle from us now and again. One morning a couple of roses and a +sprig of lemon verbena were added to his small gratuity. The effect +upon that sightless countenance was electrical, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>the poor +mendicant, having only pantomime with which to express his delight, +seemed half frantic. The money fell to the ground, but the flowers +were pressed passionately to his breast.</p> + +<p>Did it remind him, we thought, of perfumes which had once delighted +his youthful senses in far-off Asia, before he had been decoyed to a +foreign land and into semi-slavery, to be deprived of health, liberty, +sight, hope, everything?</p> + +<p>The Cuban beggars have a dash of originality in their ideas as to the +successful prosecution of their calling; we mean those "native and to +the manor born." Some of them possess two and even three cadaverous +dogs, taught to follow closely at their heels, as they wander about, +and having the same shriveled-up, half-starved aspect as their +masters. One beggar, who was quite a cripple, had his daily seat in a +sort of wheelbarrow, at the corner of Paseo Street, opposite the Plaza +de Isabella. This man was always accompanied by a parrot of gaudy +plumage, perched familiarly on his shoulder. Now and then the cripple +put some favorite bird-food between his own lips, which the parrot +extracted and appropriated with such promptness as to indicate a good +appetite. Another solicitor of alms, quite old and bent, had an +amusing companion in a little gray squirrel, with a collar and string +attached, the animal being as mischievous as a monkey, now and then +hiding in one of the mendicant's several pockets, sometimes coming +forth to crack and eat a nut upon his owner's shoulder. A blind +beggar, of Creole nationality, sat all day long in the hot sun, on the +Alameda de Paula near the Hotel San Carlos, whose companion was a +chimpanzee monkey. The little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>half-human creature held out its hand +with a piteous expression to every passer-by, and deposited whatever +he received in his master's pocket. These pets serve to attract +attention, if not commiseration, and we observed that the men did not +beg in vain.</p> + +<p>The acme of originality, however, was certainly reached in the case of +a remarkable Creole beggar whose regular post is on the west corner of +the Central Market. This man is perhaps thirty-five or forty years of +age, and possesses a fine head, a handsome face, and piercing black +eyes. He is of small body, and his lower limbs are so withered as to +be entirely useless; so he sits with them curled up in a low, broad +basket, in which he is daily brought to the spot, locomotion in his +case being out of the question. He wears the cleanest of linen, and +his faultless cuffs and ruffled shirt-bosom are decked with solid gold +studs. He is bareheaded, but his thick black hair is carefully +dressed, and parted with mathematical precision in the middle. He +wears neither coat nor vest, but his lower garments are neatly adapted +to his deformity, and are of broadcloth. This man does not utter a +word, but extends his hand pleasantly, with an appealing look from his +handsome eyes, which often elicits a silver real from the passer-by. +We acknowledge to having been thus influenced more than once, in our +morning walks, by a sympathy which it would be difficult to analyze. +We had seen a colored dude selling canes at Nassau, but a dude +mendicant, and a cripple at that, was a physical anomaly.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Introduction of Sugar-Cane. — Sugar Plantations. — Mode of +Manufacture. — Slaves on the Plantations. — African +Amusements. — The Grinding Season. — The Coffee +Plantations. — A Floral Paradise. — Refugees from St. +Domingo. — Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. — Three +Staple Productions of Cuba. — Raising Coffee and Tobacco. — +Best Soils for the Tobacco. — Agricultural Possibilities. — +The Cuban Fire-Fly. — A Much-Dreaded Insect. — The Ceiba +Tree. — About Horses and Oxen. +</div> + +<p>The first sugar plantation established in Cuba was in 1595, nearly +three hundred years since. These plantations are the least attractive +in external appearance, but the most profitable pecuniarily, of all +agricultural investments in the tropics, though at the present writing +there is a depression in prices of sugar which has brought about a +serious complication of affairs. The markets of the world have become +glutted with the article, owing to the enormous over-production in +Europe from the beet. The plantations devoted to the raising of the +sugar-cane in Cuba spread out their extensive fields, covered with the +corn-like stalks, without any relief to the eye, though here and there +the graceful feathery branches of the palm are seen. The fields are +divided off into squares of three or four acres each, between which a +roadway is left for ox-teams to pass for gathering purposes. On some +of the largest estates tramways have been laid, reaching from the +several sections of the plantation to the doors of the grinding-mill. +A mule, by this means, is enabled to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>draw as large a load as a pair +of oxen on plain ground, and with much more ease and promptness.</p> + +<p>About the houses of the owner and the overseer, graceful fruit trees, +such as bananas and cocoanuts, with some flowering and fragrant +plants, are grouped, forming inviting shade and producing a +picturesque effect. Not far away, the low cabins of the blacks are +half hidden by plantain and mango trees, surrounded by cultivated +patches devoted to yams, sweet potatoes, and the like. Some of the +small gardens planted by these dusky Africans showed judgment and +taste in their management. Chickens and pigs, which were the private +property of the negroes, were cooped up just behind the cabins. Many +of these plantations employ from four to five hundred blacks, and in +some instances the number will reach seven hundred on extensive +estates, though the tendency of the new and improved machinery is to +constantly reduce the number of hands required, and to increase the +degree of intelligence necessary in those employed. Added to these +employees there must also be many head of cattle,—oxen, horses, and +mules. The annual running expenditure of one of these large estates +will reach two hundred thousand dollars, more or less, for which +outlay there is realized, under favorable circumstances, a million +five hundred thousand pounds of sugar, worth, in good seasons, five +cents per pound at the nearest shipping point.</p> + +<p>There are a few of the small estates which still employ ox-power for +grinding the cane, but American steam-engines have almost entirely +taken the place of animal power; indeed, as we have shown, it will no +longer pay to produce sugar by the primitive processes. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +This creates a constant demand for engineers and machinists, for whom the Cubans +depend upon this country. We were told that there were not less than +two hundred Bostonians at the present time thus engaged on Cuban +estates. A Spaniard or Creole would as soon attempt to fly like a bird +as to learn how to run a steam-engine or regulate a line of shafting. +It requires more intelligence and mechanical skill, as a rule, than +the most faithful slaves possess. A careful calculation shows that in +return for the services of this small band of employees taken from our +shores, this country takes eighty per cent. of all the sugar produced +upon the island! Twelve per cent. is consumed by peninsular Spain, +thus leaving but eight per cent. of this product for distribution +elsewhere.</p> + +<p>During the grinding season, which begins about the first of December +and ends in April, a large, well-managed sugar plantation in Cuba is a +scene of the utmost activity and most unremitting labor. Time is +doubly precious during the harvesting period, for when the cane is +ripe there should be no delay in expressing the juice. If left too +long in the field it becomes crystallized, deteriorating both in its +quality and in the amount of juice which is obtained. The oxen +employed often die before the season is at an end, from overwork +beneath a torrid sun. The slaves are allowed but four or five hours +sleep out of the twenty-four, and being worked by watches during the +night, the mill does not lie idle for an hour after it is started +until the grinding season is closed. If the slaves are thus driven +during this period, throughout the rest of the year their task is +comparatively light, and they may sleep ten hours out of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> +twenty-four, if they choose. According to the Spanish slave +code,—always more or less of a dead letter,—the blacks can be kept +at work in Cuba only from sunrise to sunset, with an interval of two +hours for repose and food in the middle of the day. But this is not +regarded in the sugar harvest season, which period, after all, the +slaves do not seem so much to dread, for then they are granted more +privileges and are better fed, given more variety of food and many +other little luxuries which they are known to prize.</p> + +<p>On Sunday afternoons and evenings on most of the plantations the +slaves are given their time, and are permitted, even in the harvest +season, to amuse themselves after their own chosen fashion. On such +occasions the privilege is often improved by the blacks to indulge in +native African dances, crude and rude enough, but very amusing to +witness. The music for the dancers is supplied by a home-made drum, +and by that alone, the negro who plays it being to the lookers-on +quite as much of a curiosity as those who perform the grotesque +dances. This humble musician writhes, wriggles, twists himself like a +corkscrew, and all the while beats time, accompanying his notes with +cries and howls, reminding one of the Apache Indian when engaged in a +war dance. It is astonishing to witness to what a degree of excitement +this negro drummer will work himself up, often fairly frothing at the +mouth. A buxom wench and her mate step forward and perform a wild, +sensuous combination of movements, a sort of negro can-can, like those +dancing girls one sees in India, striving to express sentiments of +love, jealousy, and passion by their pantomime, though these negroes +are far less refined in their gestures. When these two are exhausted, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +others take their place, with very similar movements. The same +drummer labors all the while, perspiring copiously, and seeming to get +his full share of satisfaction out of the queer performance. This is +almost their only amusement, though the Chinese coolies who have been +distributed upon the plantations have taught the negroes some of their +queer games, one, particularly, resembling dominoes. The author saw a +set of dominoes made out of native ebony wood by an African slave, +which were of finer finish than machinery turns out, delicately inlaid +with ivory from alligators' teeth, indicating the points upon each +piece. We were told that the only tool the maker had with which to +execute his delicate task was a rude jack-knife. We have said that the +negroes find in the singular dance referred to their one amusement, +but they sometimes engage among themselves in a game of ball, after a +fashion all their own, which it would drive a Yankee base-ball player +frantic to attempt to analyze.</p> + +<p>The sugar-cane yields but one crop in a year. There are several +varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally +cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to +warrant the getting-up of steam at the grinding-mill and the time when +the heat and the rain spoil its qualities, all the sugar for the +season must be made; hence the necessity for great industry on the +large estates. In Louisiana the grinding season lasts but about eight +weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar +produced on the island and comparing it with that of the +mainland,—the growth of Louisiana,—chemists could find no difference +as to the quality of the true saccharine principle contained in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>each. +The Cuban sugar, compared with beet-sugar, however, is said to yield +of saccharine matter one quarter more in any given quantity.</p> + +<p>In society the sugar planter holds a higher rank than the coffee +planter, as we have already intimated; merely in the scale of wealth, +however, for it requires five times the capital to carry on a sugar +estate that would serve for a coffee estate. Some of the large sugar +plantations have been owned and carried on by Jesuit priests—we were +about to write ex-Jesuit priests, but that would not be quite correct, +for once a member of this order one is bound to it for all time. The +priest or acknowledged member of the organization may be forced for +prudential reasons to temporarily change his occupation, but he cannot +sever himself from the responsibilities which he has once voluntarily +assumed. There was a time when much of the landed and fertile property +of the island was controlled by the Church,—in fact owned by it, +though often by very questionable titles. The original owners, under +cunning pressure, perhaps on a threatened death-bed, were induced to +will all to the Church; or as an act of deep penance for some crime +divulged at the confessional, they yielded up all. To preserve this +property and possibly to cause it to produce an income for the Church, +certain priests became active planters. Extreme ecclesiastic rule, as +has been said, is greatly modified in Spain and her colonies, the +natural reaction of the hateful days of the Inquisition.</p> + +<p>As the sugar plantation surpasses the coffee in wealth, so the coffee +estate surpasses the sugar in every natural beauty and attractiveness. +A coffee plantation, well and properly laid out, is one of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>most +beautiful gardens that can well be conceived of, in its variety and +loveliness baffling description. An estate devoted to this purpose +usually covers a hundred acres, more or less, planted in regular +squares of one acre or thereabouts, intersected by broad alleys lined +with palms, mangoes, bananas, oranges, and other fruits; as the +coffee, unlike the sugar cane, requires partial protection from the +ardor of the sun. Mingled with the trees are lemons, limes, +pomegranates, Cape jasmines, and a species of wild heliotrope, +fragrant as the morning. Occasionally in the wide reach of the estate +there is seen a solitary, broad-spreading ceiba, in hermit-like +isolation from other trees, but shading a fragrant undergrowth. +Conceive of this beautiful arrangement, and then of the whole when in +flower; the coffee, with its milk-white blossoms, so abundant that it +seems as though a pure white cloud of snow had fallen there, and left +the rest of the vegetation fresh and green. Interspersed in these +fragrant alleys dividing the coffee plants is the red of the Mexican +rose, the flowering pomegranate, the yellow jasmine, and the large, +gaudy flower of the penon, shrouding its parent stem in a cloak of +scarlet. Here too are seen clusters of the graceful yellow flag, and +many wild flowers, unknown by name, entwining their tender stems about +the base of the fruit trees. In short, a coffee plantation is a +perfect floral paradise, full of fragrance and repose.</p> + +<p>The writer's experience was mainly gained at and about the estate of +the late Dr. Finley, a Scotch physician long resident upon the island. +He had named his plantation after the custom with a fancy title, and +called it Buena Esperanza. Here was seen the mignonette tree twenty +feet high, full of pale <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>yellow and green blossoms, as fragrant as is +its little namesake, which we put in our conservatories. There were +also fuchsias, blue, red, yellow, and green, this last hue quite new +to us. The night-blooming cereus was in rank abundance, together with +the flor de pascua, or Easter flower, so lovely in its cream-colored, +wax-like blossom. The Indian poui, with its saffron-colored flowers, +was strikingly conspicuous, and there too was that pleasant little +favorite, the damask rose. It seemed as if all out-doors was an exotic +garden, full of marvelous beauty. What daily miracles nature is +performing under our only half-observant eyes! Behold, where the paths +intersect each other, a beautiful convolvulus has entwined itself +about that dead and decaying tree, clothing the gray old trunk with +pale but lovely flowers; just as we deck our human dead for the grave.</p> + +<p>It was the revolution in San Domingo which gave the first great +stimulus to the culture of the coffee plant in Cuba, an enterprise +which has gradually faded out in the last decade, though not +absolutely obliterated. The refugees from the opposite shore sought +shelter wherever they could find it among the nearest islands of the +Archipelago, and large numbers made their new homes in the eastern +department of Cuba, near the cities of Trinidad and Santiago. Here +they turned lands which had been idle for three and four centuries +into smiling gardens, and the production of the favorite berry became +very profitable for a series of years, many cargoes being shipped +annually to this country from the two ports just named. The production +of sugar, however, has always maintained precedence, dividing the +honor to-day only with tobacco in the manufactured state. Coffee does +not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>figure to any extent in the statistics of exports. Exorbitant +taxation and the cruel ravages of civil war, in the coffee districts +especially, are largely the cause of the loss of an important and +profitable industry.</p> + +<p>Some amusing experiments with a mimosa or sensitive plant served to +fill a leisure hour at Buena Esperanza, under our host's intelligent +direction. It grew wild and luxuriantly within a few feet of the broad +piazza of the country-house. Close by it was a morning-glory, which +was in remarkable fullness and freshness of bloom, its gay profuseness +of purple, pink, and variegated white making it indeed the glory of +the morning. It was a surprise to find the mimosa of such similar +habits with its neighbor, the morning-glory, regularly folding its +leaves and going to sleep when the shades of evening deepened, but +awaking bright and early with the first breath of the morn. So +sensitive is this most curious plant, so full of nerves, as our host +expressed it, that it would not only shrink instantly, like unveiled +modesty, at the touch of one's hand, but even at the near approach of +some special organisms, ere they had extended a hand towards it. Five +persons tried the experiment before the sixth illustrated the fact +that touch was not absolutely necessary to cause the leaves to shrivel +up or shrink through seeming fear. Our host even intimated that when +the mimosa had become familiar with a congenial person its timidity +would vanish, and it could be handled gently by that individual +without outraging its sensibility. Of this, however, we saw no +positive evidence. If Mr. Darwin had supplemented his chapters on the +monkey by a paper relating to the mimosa, he might possibly have +enabled us to find a mutual confirmation in them of some fine-spun +theory.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +The three great staple productions of Cuba are sugar, the sweetener; +coffee, the tonic; and tobacco, the narcotic of half the world. The +first of these, as we have shown, is the greatest source of wealth, +having also the preference as to purity and excellence over any other +saccharine production. Its manufacture also yields molasses, which +forms an important article of export, besides which a spirituous +liquor, called aguardiente, is distilled in considerable quantities +from the molasses. The cane, which grows to about the size of a large +walking-stick, or well-developed cornstalk, is cut off near the ground +and conveyed in the green state, though it is called ripe, to the +mill, where it is crushed to a complete pulp between stones or iron +rollers. After the juice is thus extracted the material left is spread +out in the sun to dry, and is after being thus "cured" used for fuel +beneath the steam-boilers, which afford both power to the engine and +the means of boiling the juice. Lime-water is employed to neutralize +any free acid as well as to separate the vegetable matter. The +granulation and crystallization are effected in large flat pans, or +now more commonly by centrifugal machines, rotating at great speed. It +is then crushed and packed either in hogsheads or in boxes for +exportation; canvas bags are also being largely employed, as they are +easier to pack on board ship, and also to handle generally. A +plantation is renewed when deemed necessary, by laying the green canes +horizontally in the ground, when new and vigorous shoots spring up +from every joint, showing the great fertility of the soil.</p> + +<p>Coffee was introduced by the French into Martinique in 1727, but it +did not make its appearance in Cuba until forty years later, or, to be +exact, in 1769. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>The decadence of this branch of agriculture is due +not only to the causes we have already named, but also to the inferior +mode of cultivation adopted on the island. It was predicted some years +before it commenced, and when the crash came the markets of the world +were also found to be greatly overstocked with the article. While some +planters introduced improved methods and economy in the conduct of +their estates, others abandoned the business altogether, and turned +their fields either into sugar-raising, fruits or tobacco. Precisely +the same trouble was experienced in the island of Ceylon, which was at +one time a great coffee-raising centre, but now its planters are many +of them abandoning the business, while others adopt new seed and new +methods of culture. In Cuba it was found that the plants had been +grown too closely together and subjected to too close pruning, while +the product, which was gathered by hand, yielded a mixture of ripe and +unripe berries. In the countries where coffee originated, a very +different method of harvesting is adopted. The Arabs plant the +coffee-shrubs much farther apart, allow them to grow to considerable +height, and gather the crop by shaking the tree, a method which +secures only the ripe berries. After a few weeks, or even days, the +field is gone over a second time, when the green berries have become +fit to gather, and readily fall to the ground.</p> + +<p>A coffee estate well managed, that is, combined with the rearing of +fruits and vegetables intermingled, thus affording the required shade +for the main crop, proves fairly profitable in Cuba to-day, and were +this industry not hampered and handicapped by excessive taxes, it +would attract many new planters. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>coffee ripens from August to +December, the nuts then becoming about the size of our cherries. The +coffee-berry is the seed of the fruit, two of which are contained in +each kernel, having their flat surfaces together, surrounded by a soft +pulp. The ripe berries are dried by exposure to the sun's rays, then +bruised in a mill, by which means the seeds are separated from the +berry. They are then screened to cleanse them, after which they are +bagged, and the coffee is ready for market. Some planters take great +care to sort their crop by hand, in which operation the negro women +become very expert. By dividing the berries into first and second +qualities as to size and cleanliness, a better aggregated price is +realized for the entire harvest. Not only are the coffee estates much +more pleasing to the eye than the sugar plantations, but they are also +much more in harmony with the feelings of the philanthropist. There is +here no such exigency in getting in the harvest, leading to the +overwork of the slaves, as on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +Indeed, we were assured that it was quite possible to carry on a +coffee estate with white labor. When, heretofore, a negro has been +brought to the block in Havana, or any other Cuban city, the price +realized for him has always been materially affected by the question +whether he had been employed on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +If he had been thus employed it was considered that his life has been +unduly shortened, and he sold accordingly at a lower price. At the +present time few negroes are bought or sold, as their market value has +become merely nominal. There is no good reason why white labor is not +suited to the coffee and tobacco estates. When the field labor upon the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> +sugar estates is almost wholly performed by machinery, that is, +the cane cut by a reaper, there will be so much less exposure to the +sun that white hands, under proper management, can perform it.</p> + +<p>Tobacco, indigenous to both Cuba and the United States, is a great +source of revenue upon the island. Its cultivation involves +considerable labor and expense, as the soil must be carefully chosen +and prepared, and the crop is an exhaustive one to the land; but the +cultivation does not require machinery, like sugar-cane, nor quite so +much care as does the growing coffee. It is valued in accordance with +the locality from which it comes, some sections being especially +adapted to its production. That of the greatest market value, and used +in the manufacture of the highest-cost cigars, is grown in the most +westerly division of the island, known as the Vuelta de Abajo (Lower +Valley). The whole western portion of Cuba is not by any means +suitable to the production of tobacco. The region of the best tobacco +is comprised within a small parallelogram of very limited extent. +Beyond this, up to the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine +color, but of inferior aroma. From Consolacion to San Christoval the +tobacco is very "hot,"—to use a local phrase,—harsh, and strong, and +from San Christoval to Guanajay the quality is inferior up to Holguin +y Cuba, where better tobacco is produced. The fertile valley of Los +Guines produces poor smoking-tobacco, but an article excellent for the +manufacture of snuff. On the banks of the Rio San Sebastian, are also +some estates which produce the very best quality of tobacco. Thus +it will be seen that certain properties of soil operate more directly +in producing a fine grade of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>tobacco than any slight variation of +climate. Possibly a chemical analysis of the soil of the Vuelta de +Abajo would enable the intelligent cultivator to supply to other lands +the ingredients wanted to make them produce equally good tobacco. A +fairly marketable article, however, is grown in nearly any part of the +island. Its cultivation is thought to produce a full ten per cent. +upon the capital invested, the annual crop of Cuba being estimated in +value at about twenty-three million dollars. The number of tobacco +planters is said to be about fifteen thousand, large and small. On +many tobacco farms the labor is nearly all performed by white hands. +Some coolies and some negroes are also employed even on small estates.</p> + +<p>When it is remembered that so small a portion of the land is under +cultivation, and yet that Cuba exports annually a hundred million +dollars worth of sugar and molasses, besides coffee, tobacco, fruits, +and precious woods, it will be realized what might be accomplished, +under a liberal system of government, upon this gem of the Caribbean +Sea. Cacao, rice, plantains, indigo, and cotton, besides Indian corn +and many nutritious vegetables, might be profitably cultivated to a +much larger degree than is now done. It is a curious and remarkable +fact, suggesting a striking moral, that with the inexhaustible +fertility of the soil, with an endless summer that gives the laborer +two and even three crops a year, agriculture generally yields in Cuba +a lower percentage of profit than in our stern Northern latitudes, +where the farmer has to wrench, as it were, the half-reluctant crop +from the ground. It must be remembered that in Cuba there are numerous +fruits and vegetables not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>enumerated in these pages, which do not +enter into commerce, and which spring spontaneously from the fertile +soil. In the possession of a thrifty population the island would be +made to blossom like a rose, but as it now is, it forms only a garden +growing wild, cultivated here and there in patches. None of the fine +natural fruits have ever been improved by careful culture and the +intelligent selection of kinds, so that in many respects they will not +compare in perfection with our average strawberries, plums, pears, and +peaches. Their unfulfilled possibilities remain to be developed by +intelligent treatment.</p> + +<p>The plantain, which may be said to be the bread of the common people, +requires to be planted but once. The stem bears freely, like the +banana of the same family, at the end of eight months, and then +withering to the ground renews itself again from the roots. Sweet +potatoes once planted require care only to prevent their too great +luxuriance, and for this purpose a plough is passed through them +before the wet season, and as many of the vines as can be freely +plucked up are removed from the field. The sugar-cane, on virgin soil, +will last and prove productive for twenty years. The coffee shrub or +tree will bear luxuriantly for forty or fifty years. The cocoanut palm +is peculiar to all tropical climates, and in Cuba, as in the Malacca +Straits and India, bears an important share in sustaining the life of +the people, supplying milk, shade, and material for a hundred domestic +uses. It grows in luxuriant thriftiness all over the island, in high +and low land, in forests, and down to the very shore washed by the +Gulf Stream. It is always graceful and picturesque, imparting an +oriental aspect to everything which surrounds it. It is estimated +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +that over ten million acres of native forests, covered by valuable +wood, still remain untouched by the woodman's axe, especially on and +about the mountain range, which extends nearly the entire length of +the island, like the vertebræ of an immense whale.</p> + +<p>About the coffee plantations, and indeed throughout the rural portions +of the country, there is a curious little insect called a cocuyo, +answering in its general characteristics and nature to our firefly, +though it is quadruple its size, and far the most brilliant insect of +its kind known to naturalists. They float in phosphorescent clouds +over the vegetation, emitting a lurid halo, like fairy torch-bearers +to elfin crews. One at first sight is apt to compare them to a shower +of stars. They come in multitudes immediately after the wet season +sets in, prevailing more or less, however, all the year round. Their +advent is always hailed with delight by the slave children, as well as +by children of a larger growth. They are caught by the slaves in any +desired numbers and confined in tiny cages of wicker, giving them +sufficient light in their cabins at night for ordinary purposes, and +forming the only artificial light permitted them. We have seen a +string of the little cages containing the glittering insects hung in a +slave-cabin in festoons, like colored lamps in fancy-goods stores in +America. The effect of the evanescent light thus produced is very +peculiar, but the number of insects employed insures a sufficiently +steady effect for ordinary purposes. These little creatures are +brought into Havana by young Creole children and by women, for sale to +the ladies, who sometimes in the evenings wear a small cage hung to +the wrist containing a few of the cocuyos, and the light thus produced +is nearly equal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>to a small candle. Some ladies wear a belt of them at +night, ingeniously fastened about the waist, others a necklace, and +the effect is highly amusing. In the ballroom they are worn in the +flounces of ladies' dresses, where they glisten very much like +diamonds and other precious stones. Strange to say, there is a natural +hook near the head of the firefly, by which it can be attached to the +dress without apparent injury to it. The town ladies keep little cages +of these insects as pets, feeding them on sugar, of which they appear +to be immoderately fond. On the plantations, when a fresh supply is +desired, one has only to wait until evening, when hundreds can be +secured with a thread net at the end of a pole. By holding a cocuyo up +in the out-door air for a few moments, large numbers are at once +attracted to the spot. In size they are about an inch long, and a +little over an eighth of an inch in breadth.</p> + +<p>There is an insidious and much dreaded insect with which the planters +have to contend on the sugar and coffee plantations, but which is not +met with in the cities; namely, the red ant, a much more formidable +foe than any one not acquainted with its ravages would believe. These +little creatures possess a power altogether out of proportion to their +insignificant size, eating into the heart of the hardest wood, neither +cedar, iron-wood, nor even lignum-vitæ being proof against them. They +are not seen at the surface, as they never touch the outer shell of +the wood whose heart they are consuming. A beam or rafter which has +been attacked by them looks as good as when new, to the casual +observer, until it is sounded and found to be hollow, a mere shell in +fact. Even in passing from one piece of timber to another, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>the red +ant does so by covered ways, and is thus least seen when most busy. +The timbers of an entire roof have been found hollowed out and +deprived entirely of their supporting strength without the presence of +the insect enemy being even suspected until chance betrayed the +useless character of the supports. For some unknown reason, upright +timbers are rarely attacked by them, but those in a reclining or +horizontal position are their choice. These destructive red ants are +nearly always to be found in tropical countries, as in India, Batavia, +and Sumatra, where they build mounds in the jungle half the size of +the natives' cabins. They may be seen marching like an invading army +in columns containing myriads across the fields of southern India.</p> + +<p>The interior landscape, more particularly of the middle district of +the island, is here and there ornamented by fine specimens of the +ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, which is often seen a hundred feet in +height, with stout and widespread branches, giving the idea of great +firmness and stability. It sends up a massive sinewy trunk for some +fifty feet, when it divides into branches covered with a dense canopy +of leaves, expanded like an umbrella, and forming a perfect shade +against the power of the torrid sun. The ceiba is slow of growth, but +attains to great age, specimens thriving when Columbus first landed +here being, as we were assured, still extant. Next to the royal palm, +it is the most remarkable of all the trees which loom up beneath the +brilliant purple skies of Cuba. The negroes have a superstition that +the ceiba is a magic tree haunted by spirits, a singular notion also +shared by the colored people of Nassau, though these two islands are +so many hundreds of miles apart <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>and have never had any natural +connection. There is certainly something weird in the loneliness and +solitary grandeur of the tree. Next to the palm and ceiba in beauty +and picturesqueness of effect is the tamarind tree, with its deep +green and delicate foliage, presenting a singular and curious aspect +when thickly looped on every branch with hanging chocolate-colored +pods.</p> + +<p>Under the noonday sun, sitting in the deep shade of some lofty ceiba, +one may watch with curious eyes the myriads of many-hued, broad-winged +butterflies, mingling orange, crimson, and steel-blue in dazzling +combinations, as they flit through the ambient atmosphere with a +background of shining, evergreen foliage, the hum of insects and the +carol of birds forming a soft lullaby inviting sleep. Naturalists tell +us that no less than three hundred distinct species of butterflies are +found in Cuba, ranging in size from a common house-fly to a +humming-bird. The day dies with a suddenness almost startling, so that +one passes from sunshine to starlight as if by magic. Then the cocuyo +takes up the activity of insect life, flashing its miniature torches +over the plantations, and peeping out from among the dense foliage, +while the stars sing their evening hymn of silent praise.</p> + +<p>The Cubans have a peculiar mode of harnessing their oxen, similar to +that seen in the far East and also in some parts of Europe, as at San +Sebastian, on the Bay of Biscay. A stout wooden bar is placed at the +root of the horns, and so securely bound to them with thongs that the +animal draws, or rather pushes, by the head and frontlet, without +chafing. The Cuban oxen have a hole pierced in their nostrils, through +which a metallic ring is secured, and to this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>a rope is attached, +serving as reins with which to guide the animal. This mode of +harnessing certainly seems to enable the oxen to bring more strength +to bear upon the purpose for which they are employed than when the +yoke is placed, as is the case with us, about the throat and +shoulders. The greatest power of horned animals undoubtedly lies in +the head and neck, and the question arises whether in placing the yoke +on the neck and breast we do not get it out of reach of the exercise +of that strength, and cause the animal to draw the load behind him by +the mere force of his bodily weight and impetus. The West Indian +animal is small, and often of the cream-colored breed, mild-eyed and +docile, of which one sees such choice specimens in Italy and +especially on the plains of Lombardy.</p> + +<p>Not quite satisfied with the conclusion first arrived at, we gave this +subject of the harnessing of oxen a second consideration, and in +carefully watching the operation of the frontlet-bar we detected at +least one very cruel and objectionable feature in this mode of +harnessing. The animals are necessarily so bound to the bar that to +move their heads one way or the other is a simple impossibility, while +our mode of yoking oxen leaves them very much at liberty in the use of +their heads, thus enabling them to shake off flies and other biting +insects which may tease them, whereas the eyes of a Cuban ox are often +seen infested with flies which he cannot get rid of while in harness, +however he may be beset by them. This alone, in a climate where biting +insects swarm all the year round, is a most serious objection to the +frontlet-bar as compared with the yoke.</p> + +<p>The Cuban horse deserves more than a mere mention<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> in this connection. +He is a remarkably valuable animal, especially adapted to the climate +and to the service required of him. Though small and delicate of limb +he can carry a great weight, and his gait is not unlike that of our +pacing horses, though with much less lateral motion, and is remarkably +easy for the rider, certainly forming the easiest gait combined with +rapidity of motion possessed by any breed. He has great power of +endurance, is a small eater, requiring no grain as a general thing, +but is satisfied with the green leaves and stalks of the corn, upon +which he keeps in good condition and flesh. He is a docile little +creature, easily taught and easily taken care of. The Cuban horse +knows no shelter except the heavens above him, for there are no barns +in Cuba; but he will no more wander away from his master's door, where +he stands at nearly all hours of the day with the saddle on his back, +than would a favorite dog. The Montero inherits all the love of his +Moorish ancestors for the horse, and never stirs abroad except upon +his back. He considers himself established for life when he possesses +a good horse, a sharp Toledo blade, and a pair of silver spurs. Being +from childhood accustomed to the saddle, it is natural for him to be a +good rider, and there are none better even in Arabia. He is apt to +tell big stories about his little horse, intimating its descent direct +from the Kochlani, or King Solomon's breed, and to endow it with +marvelous qualities of speed and endurance. The Montero is never heard +to boast of his wife, his children, or any other possession, but he +does "blow" for his horse.</p> + +<p>One of this class stood beside his pony one warm afternoon opposite +the Hotel Telegrafo, where a few <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>of the guests were seated under the +broad veranda. The sleek, well-formed animal elicited some +complimentary remarks, which gratified the owner, who spoke English +after the style of his people. He indulged in praises of the horse, +especially as to the ease and steadiness of his gait, and offered a +bet that he could ride round the outside of the Campo de Marte on him +and return to the spot where he stood, at ordinary speed, carrying a +full glass of water without spilling a tablespoonful of the liquid; +such is the ease of motion of these animals trained to what is called +the paso gualtrapeo. Four corners were to be turned by the Cuban, as +well as half a mile of distance accomplished. The small bet suggested +was readily taken, and the full tumbler of water brought out of the +house. The Cuban mounted his pony and rode round the park with the +speed of a bird, easily winning his bet.</p> + +<p>The visitor, as he proceeds inland, will frequently observe on the +fronts of the dwellings attempts at representations in colors of birds +and various animals, resembling anything rather than what they are +apparently designed to depict. The most striking characteristics are +the gaudy coloring and the remarkable size. Pigeons present the +colossal appearance of ostriches, and dogs are exceedingly elephantine +in their proportions. Space would not be adequate to picture horses +and cattle. Especially in the suburbs of the cities this fancy may be +observed, where attempts at portraying domestic scenes present some +original ideas as to grouping. If such ludicrous objects were to be +met with anywhere else but in Cuba they would be called caricatures. +Here they are regarded with the utmost complacency, and innocently +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +considered to be artistic and ornamental. Noticing something of the +same sort in Vevay, Switzerland, not long since, the author found on +inquiry that it was the incipient art effort of a Spanish Creole, who +had wandered thither from the island.</p> + +<p>The policy of the home government has been to suppress, so far as +possible, all knowledge of matters in general relating to Cuba; +especially to prevent the making public of any statistical information +regarding the internal resources, all accounts of its current growth, +prosperity, or otherwise. Rigidly-enforced rules accomplished this +seclusiveness for many years, until commercial relations with the +"outside barbarians" rendered this no longer possible. No official +chart of Havana, its harbor, or that of any other Cuban city has ever +been made public. Spain has seemed to desire to draw a curtain before +this tropical jewel, lest its dazzling brightness should tempt the +cupidity of some other nation. Notwithstanding this, our war +department at Washington contains complete drawings of every important +fortification, and charts of every important harbor in Cuba. Since +1867 we have been connected with Cuba by submarine cable, and through +her with Jamaica since 1870. The local government exercises, however, +strict surveillance over telegraphic communications.</p> + +<p>The political condition of Cuba is what might be expected of a +Castilian colony, ruled and governed by such a policy as prevails +here. Like the home government, she presents a remarkable instance of +the standstill policy, and from one of the most powerful and wealthy +kingdoms of Europe, Spain has sunk to the position of the humblest and +poorest. Other nations have labored and succeeded in the race of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +progress, while her adherence to ancient institutions and her +dignified contempt for "modern innovations" have become a species of +retrogression, which has placed her far below all her sister +governments. The true Hidalgo spirit, which wraps itself up in an +antique garb and shrugs its shoulders at the advance of other nations, +still rules over the realm of Ferdinand and Isabella, while its +high-roads swarm with gypsies and banditti, as tokens of decaying +power.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Consumption of Tobacco. — The Delicious Fruits of the +Tropics. — Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. — +The Royal Palm. — The Mulberry Tree. — Silk Culture. — The +Island once covered by Forests. — No Poisonous Reptiles. — +The Cuban Bloodhound. — Hotbed of African Slavery. — +Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. — The Coolie System of +Slavery. — Ah-Lee draws a Prize. — Native African Races. — +Negroes buying their Freedom. — Laws favoring the Slaves. — +Example of St. Domingo. — General Emancipation. +</div> + +<p>The consumption of tobacco in the form of cigars is almost incredibly +large in Cuba, and for the city of Havana alone it has been estimated +to amount to an aggregate cost of five million dollars per annum. +Every man, woman, and child appears to be addicted to the habit. It +strikes a Northerner as rather odd for a lady to sit smoking her +cigarette in her parlor, but this is not at all rare. The men of all +degrees smoke everywhere, in the dwelling-house, in the street, in the +theatre, in the cafés, and in the counting-room; eating, drinking, +and truly it would also seem, sleeping, they smoke, smoke, smoke. At +the tables d'hôte of the hotels it is not unusual to see a Cuban take +a few whiffs of a cigarette between the several courses, and lights +are burning close at hand to enable him to do so. If a party of +gentlemen are invited to dine together, the host so orders that a +packet of the finest cigarettes is frequently passed to his guests, +with a lighted taper, in the course of the meal, and at its close some +favorite brand of the more substantial <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>cigar is furnished to all. +Thus, tobacco is consumed on every occasion, in the council-chamber, +the court, at funerals, in the domestic circles, at feasts, and on the +out-door drive. The slave and his master, the maid and her mistress, +boy and man, all, all smoke. It seems odd that one does not scent +Havana far out at sea before the land is sighted.</p> + +<p>We were told that gentlemen who have the means to procure them smoke +on an average what is equivalent to a dozen cigars per day, and those +of the other sex addicted to the habit consume half that quantity. Of +late the larger proportion, however, takes the form of cigarettes, +which are far more subtle in effect when used to excess. The +consequence of this large home consumption, in addition to the export +of the article, is that a very numerous class of the population is +engaged in the manufacture, and little stores devoted solely to this +business are plentifully sprinkled all about the metropolis. The +imperial factory of La Honradez, already described, occupies a whole +city square, and is one of its curiosities, producing from three to +four million cigarettes per diem. This house enjoys special +governmental protection, and makes its annual contribution to the +royal household of Madrid of the best of its manufactured goods. A +snuff-taker is rarely to be met with, and few, if any, chew the weed, +if we except the stevedores and foreign sailors to be seen about the +shore and shipping. Havana has no wharves, properly speaking; vessels +are loaded and discharged by means of lighters or scows. The negroes +become passionately fond of the pipe, inhaling into their lungs the +rich, powerful narcotic and driving it out again at their nostrils in +slow, heavy clouds, half dozing over the dreamy effect. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>The postilion +who waits for a fare upon the street passes half his time in this way, +dreaming over his pipe of pure Havana, or renewing constantly his +cigarette. The price of manufactured tobacco in Cuba is about one half +that which we pay for the same article in America, either at wholesale +or retail, as shipping expenses, export duty, and import duty must be +added to the price charged to the consumer.</p> + +<p>In discussing this habit one naturally looks back about four hundred +years, recalling the amazement of the Spanish discoverers, when they +first landed here, at seeing the Indians smoking a native weed which +was called tobacco. The practice was, at that time, entirely unknown +in Europe, though now indulged in as a luxury by nearly half the +population of the globe.</p> + +<p>We have only a partial idea at the North of the true character of +tropical fruits, since only a small portion of them are of such a +nature as to admit of exportation, and such as are forwarded to us +must be gathered in an unripe condition in order to survive a short +sea-voyage. The orange which we eat in Boston or New York, therefore, +is a very different-flavored fruit from the same when partaken of in +Havana or Florida. The former has been picked green and ripened on +shipboard, as a general thing; the latter was perhaps on the tree an +hour before you ate it, ripened under its native skies and upon its +parent stem. So of the banana, one of the most delightful and +nutritious of all West Indian fruits, which grows everywhere in Cuba +with prodigal profuseness,—though we are told that as regards this +fruit it is claimed that, like some varieties of our pear, it ripens +as well off the tree as on it; and the same is the case with some +other fleshy fruits. After <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>the banana has attained its full growth, +the final process of ripening commences, as it were, within itself; +that is to say, the fruit ceases to depend upon the tree for +sustenance or farther development. The pulp becomes gradually +sweetened and softened, chiefly by the change of the starch into more +or less of soluble sugar. When the bananas are shipped to our Northern +markets they are as green as the leaves of the trees on which they +grew. Most of us have seen cartloads of them in this condition landing +at our city wharves. Placed in an even temperature and in darkness +they will ripen and become as yellow as gold in a very few days.</p> + +<p>The banana and plantain differ from each other much as an apple and a +potato differ; the latter should always be cooked before eating, but +the former may be either eaten raw or cooked, according to the taste. +The banana is gathered at three different stages of its growth. At a +quarter of its maturity it is rather milky, and contains much starch. +Roasted in ashes, or boiled in water, it forms a very nourishing food, +and is a good substitute for bread. If eaten at three fourths of its +growth it is less nourishing, but contains more sugar. Lastly, when +perfectly ripe, it develops an acrid principle, both wholesome and +palatable. The fig banana is a favorite species, and forms a universal +dessert in the ripe state with the Creoles. A frequent reference is +made to it in these notes because of its importance. The enormous +productiveness of the plant and its nutritious character assure to the +humble classes an abundant subsistence. People may go freely into the +wild lands and find edible bananas at any time, without money and +without price. In the cities the charge for them is so moderate that a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +person must be poor indeed who cannot afford a liberal quantity of +them daily.</p> + +<p>Some of the other fruits are the mango, pomegranate, pineapple, +zapota, tamarind, citron, fig, cocoa, lemon, rose-apple, and +breadfruit. Japan, India, and Ceylon afford nothing more fascinating +or strange in their vegetable kingdoms than this favored isle. The +fruits are simply wonderful in variety and perfection. One eats eggs, +custard, and butter off the trees. Though all these fruits are +universally eaten, the orange seems to be the Creole's favorite, and +if he be a person of even ordinary means, he seldom rises in the +morning until he has drunk his cup of coffee and eaten a couple of +oranges, brought fresh and prepared for him by a servant. The practice +is one into which the visitor falls very pleasantly, and finds it no +less refreshing than agreeable. It seems to rain oranges in Havana. +They are scarcely less cheap than the luscious banana.</p> + +<p>The rose-apple grows on one of the most symmetrical trees in Cuba, +with strong, oval, glossy leaves. The blossoms are large, white, and +of pleasant odor, followed by a round fruit about as large as a +well-developed California peach, with a smooth skin, cream-colored +within and without. The pulp is as firm as a ripe seckel pear, and the +taste is so strong of otto-of-rose that more than one at a time palls +upon the palate. It is much used among the Cubans as an agreeable +flavoring for soups and puddings. Of the fruit trees the lemon is +perhaps the most attractive to the eye; for though small and dwarfish, +yet it presents the flowers, small green lemons, and the ripe yellow +fruit all together, reminding one of the Eastern alma. The green +leaves when young are nearly as fragrant as the lemon verbena.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> +The mammee is a curious fruit growing on lofty, umbrageous trees, +appearing as musk-melons would look if seen hanging in elm-trees. +Large and high-flavored, the fruit is solid in texture like the +American quince. The flavor of the mammee resembles our peach, though +not quite so delicate. Its color when ripe is a light yellow.</p> + +<p>The mango is nearly as abundant and prolific as the banana, and yet it +came originally from the far East. It grows upon a very handsome tree, +the leaves being long, lanceolate, polished, and hanging in dense +masses of dark-green foliage. In size it is like a full-grown New +England apple tree. The mango is about thrice the size of an egg plum, +and when ripe is yellow in color, and grows in long pendant bunches. +When this fruit is at its best it is very juicy, and may be sucked +away like a grape. The negroes are immoderately fond of it, and when +permitted to do so are apt to make themselves ill by their greediness.</p> + +<p>The cocoa-nut tree grows to the height of fifty feet and more, +differing from the royal palm by its drooping nature. At its summit is +a waving tuft of dark green, glossy, pinnate leaves, from ten to +fifteen feet in length, like mammoth plumes, immediately under which +are suspended the nuts in heavy bunches, often weighing three hundred +pounds. When the nut has attained nearly its full size, it is said to +be in the milk, and it then furnishes a delightful, cooling, and +healthful beverage. In taste it is sweetish, and its effect is that of +a slight diuretic.</p> + +<p>The sapotilla is a noble fruit tree, with feathery, glossy leaves. The +blossoms are white and bell-shaped, with an agreeable perfume like an +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +apple-blossom. The fruit is round, about the size of a peach, the +skin being rough and dark like a russet apple or a potato, but when +fully ripe it is delicious, and melts away in the mouth like a +custard.</p> + +<p>The pineapple, that king of fruits, though in itself presenting such a +fine appearance, is the plainest of all in its humble manner of +growth. It is found wild in Cuba, and there are several varieties +cultivated, none quite equal, it seemed to us, to those found in +Singapore and other equatorial islands. Its style of growth is the +same in either hemisphere. It grows singly upon its low stem, reaching +to a height of eighteen or twenty inches above the ground. A single +fruit-stem pushes up from the earth, blossoms, and in about eighteen +months from the planting it matures a single apple, weighing three or +four pounds and upwards; and what a royal fruit it is! A field well +covered with the yellow, ripening apples is a very beautiful sight. +Though the plant produces but one apple at a time, it will continue to +yield an annual crop for three or four years, if cultivated. It is +raised from slips, planted much as our farmers set out young cabbages +or lettuce.</p> + +<p>The custard-apple grows wild, but is also cultivated and thereby much +improved. Its color externally is green, and it has a tough skin, is +of a subacid flavor, and as full of little flat black seeds as a shad +is of bones. It is much used in Cuba for flavoring purposes, and is +soft and juicy, each specimen weighing from a pound to a pound and a +half. The star-apple is so called because when cut through +transversely its centre presents the figure of a star. Even when quite +ripe the interior is green in color. Its flavor is exquisite, like +strawberries and cream, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>it is eaten with a spoon, the outside +skin forming as it were a shell or cup.</p> + +<p>The guava tree is small and resembles our young cherry trees. The +fruit is about the size of the lime, which it much resembles. It is +made little use of in its natural condition, but is in universal +demand as a preserve; the jelly made from it is famous all over the +world. When it is freshly cut, one will scent a whole room for hours +with its distinctive flavor.</p> + +<p>The pomegranate, a general favorite in the torrid zone, flourishes in +Cuba, but is seen in much greater perfection in Africa. It is doubtful +if it is indigenous here, though it is now found in such abundance, +and as much depended upon for a food supply as apples are with us. +Doubtless the reader has seen the bush in bearing in our hothouses, +the fruit when cut being full of red seeds glistening like rubies.</p> + +<p>The tamarind is a universal and thrifty tree in the island, lofty and +umbrageous, a quick grower and yet long-lived. The fruit is contained +in a pod,—like a full, ripe pea-pod,—covering mahogany-colored +seeds. The pulp when ripe and fresh is as soft as marmalade, and quite +palatable; its flavor is sugared acid. Steeped in water it forms a +delightful and cooling beverage, much used as a drink in the tropics.</p> + +<p>The orange, lime, lemon, and citron are too well known to require +detailed description. The wild or bitter orange is much used for +hedges: its deep green glossy foliage and its fragrant blossoms and +its golden fruit make such hedges strikingly effective. The rind of +the bitter orange is used to make a sweetmeat with which we are all +familiar.</p> + +<p>More than once the Moorish garden of the Alcazar, at Seville, and the +garden of Hesperides, at Cannes, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>were recalled in hours of delightful +wanderings among the orange groves of Cuba. Yet these latter are +neglected, or at least not generously cultivated, no such care being +given to them as is bestowed upon the orange orchards of Florida; but +the glowing sun and ardent breath of the tropics ask little aid from +the hand of man in perfecting their products. The fruits and flowers +of the American Archipelago—"air-woven children of light"—are not +only lavishly prolific, but perfect of their kind. No wonder that +scientists and botanists become poetical in their descriptions of +these regions.</p> + +<p>The royal palm, so often alluded to, grows to the height of seventy +feet, more or less. It is singular that it should have no substance in +the interior of its trunk, though the outside to the thickness of a +couple of inches makes the finest of boards, and when seasoned is so +hard as to turn a board-nail at a single stroke of the hammer. It is +remarkable also that a palm tree which grows so high has such tiny, +thread-like roots, which, however, are innumerable. The top of the +palm yields a vegetable which is used as food and when boiled is +nutritious and palatable, resembling our cauliflower. Though there are +many species of palm in Cuba, one seldom sees the fan-palm, which +forms such a distinctive feature in equatorial regions as at Penang +and Singapore.</p> + +<p>Humboldt thought that the entire island was once a forest of palms, +mingled with lime and orange trees. The mulberry tree, if not +indigenous, was found here at so early a period that it is a matter of +doubt as to its having been imported from other lands. It grows to +great perfection, and has led to several attempts in the direction of +silk-raising, the silkworm also proving +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +more prolific even than in Japan. Some of the fine, hard fancy woods +of Cuba were employed in the finish of apartments in the Escurial +palace near Madrid. Ebony, rosewood, fustic, lancewood, mahogany, and +other choice woods are very abundant, especially the mahogany, which +grows to enormous size. The exportation of them has only taken place +where these woods were best located for river transportation to +harbors on the coast. The interior of the island is so inaccessible +that it has hardly been explored. There are fertile valleys there of +two hundred miles in length and thirty in width, with an average +temperature of 75°, a maximum of 88°, and a minimum of +52°, thus affording a most perfect and healthful climate, +favorable to human and to vegetable life, and it should be remembered +that malarial diseases or yellow fever are unknown in the districts +removed from the coast, and no one ever heard of sunstroke in Cuba.</p> + +<p>It is somewhat remarkable that there should be no poisonous animals or +reptiles in the island, but so we were creditably informed. Snakes of +various species abound, but are considered entirely harmless, though +they are sometimes destructive to domestic fowls. During a pleasant +trip between San Antonio and Alquizar in a volante with a hospitable +planter of that region, this subject happened to be under discussion, +when we saw in the roadway a snake six or eight feet long, and as +large round as the middle of one's arm. On pointing it out to our +friend, he merely told us its species, and declared that a child might +sleep with it unharmed. In the mean time it was a relief to see the +innocent creature hasten to secrete itself in a lime hedge close at +hand. Lizards, tarantulas, and chameleons +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +are frequently seen, but are considered to be harmless. One often +awakes in the morning to see lizards upon his chamber wall, searching +for flies and insects, upon which they feed.</p> + +<p>The Cuban bloodhound, of which we hear so much, is not a native of the +island, but belongs to an imported breed, resembling the English +mastiff, though with larger head and limbs. He is by nature a fierce, +bloodthirsty animal, but the particular qualities which fit him for +tracing the runaway slaves are almost entirely acquired by careful +training. This is accomplished by experts in the business, who are +sometimes Monteros, and sometimes French overseers of plantations who +are out of work or regular engagement. Each estate keeps some of these +dogs as a precautionary measure, but they are seldom called into use +of late, for so certain is the slave that he will be instantly +followed as soon as missed, and inevitably traced by the hounds, that +he rarely attempts to escape from his master unless under some +peculiarly aggravating cause. It may even be doubted whether a slave +would be pursued to-day were he to attempt to escape, because slavery +is so very near its last gasp. In one respect this is an advantage to +the negroes, since the master, feeling this indifference, grants the +blacks more freedom of action. So perfect of scent is the Cuban +bloodhound that the master has only to obtain a bit of clothing left +behind by the runaway and give it to the hound to smell. The dog will +then follow the slave through a whole population of his class, and +with his nose to the ground lead straight to his hiding-place.</p> + +<p>For three centuries Cuba has been the hotbed of African slavery. Few, +if any, have been imported <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>during the last thirty years, that is to +say since 1855, during which year some cargoes were successfully run. +In 1816, the Spanish government, in a solemn treaty, declared its +conviction of the injustice of the slave trade. On the 23d of +September, 1817, in consideration of four hundred thousand pounds +sterling paid as an equivalent by Great Britain, Spain ratified a +treaty proclaiming that the slave trade should cease throughout all +the dominions of that country on the 30th day of May, 1820, and that +it should not afterwards be lawful for any Spanish subject to purchase +slaves. It was further declared by the home government that all blacks +brought from Africa subsequent to that date should be at once set +free, and the vessel on which they were transported should be +confiscated, while the captain, crew, and others concerned should be +punished with ten years' penal servitude. Yet, as all the world knows, +this was nothing more than a dead letter so far as Cuba was concerned, +and so late as 1845, statistics show an arrival of imported slaves +from Africa of fifteen thousand negroes annually, for the previous +twenty years. Tacon, Governor-General from June, 1834, until April, +1838, like his predecessors and successors made no secret of receiving +seventeen dollars per head,—that is one doubloon,—on every slave +landed. Other officials spent their fees on themselves or hoarded them +for a fortune to be enjoyed on returning home to Spain, but Tacon +expended his in beautifying Havana and its environs. That the home +government secretly fostered the slave trade, notwithstanding the +solemn treaty entered into with Great Britain, no one pretends to +deny.</p> + +<p>The coolie system, which was latterly substituted +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> +for that of the importation of Africans, was commenced in 1847, but it was only +slavery under another form, being in point of humanity even more +objectionable. Fully seventy per cent. of the Chinese coolies died +during the eight years they were bound by their contract to serve +their masters! Even after that period was completed, unjust laws and +schemes were adopted to retain their services whenever the planters +desired it; but the truth is, the planters, after a thorough +experience, were generally glad to get rid of the Mongolians. All of +them were decoyed from home under false pretenses and large promises, +and only arrived in Cuba to find themselves virtually slaves. But +there was no help for them. They were thousands of miles from China, +in a land of whose language they knew nothing, and so they were +obliged to submit. If after their term of service expired they +succeeded in reaching Havana, or other Cuban cities, and by becoming +fruit peddlers or engaging in any other occupation tried to earn +sufficient money to carry them back to their native land, they still +were brutally treated by all parties, and were ever at the mercy of +the venal police. On the plantations they received perhaps a little +more consideration than the blacks, simply because they were less +tractable and more dangerous on account of their greater degree of +intelligence and keener sense of the wrong done them. The planter, +always short of laborers, has heretofore been willing to pay the +shipping-agencies four hundred dollars for a newly-arrived coolie, +whose services he thus secured for eight years, the coolies at the +expiration of the period to receive a mere nominal sum, out of which +they have mostly been cheated by some means or other. The whole +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> +business of coolie importation is vile beyond measure, and must have +included in its aggregate over three hundred thousand Chinese. There +are still believed to be some sixty thousand left upon the island, +most of whom remain because they have no means of returning to their +native land. Half of these subsist by begging. Broken in health and +spirits, they await the coming of that final liberator who is the last +friend of suffering humanity.</p> + +<p>The Chinese are best adapted to the work of the cigar factories, where +they excel in the occupation of cigar and cigarette making, and many +hundreds are thus employed in Havana. But they are totally unfit for +plantation labor, under the hardships of which their feeble frames +succumb. They prove themselves very good servants in the cities, being +very quick to learn, and ready to adapt themselves to any light +occupation. A Chinaman is sly, cunning, and, to a certain degree, +enterprising; but he must be trusted cautiously. As a house-servant, +footman, cook, or waiter he is admirable. Here, in this to him foreign +land, he cannot suppress his instinct for gambling; it seems to be +born in him, and he will often lose in an hour the hard accumulation +of months, or even years. As to the lottery, he is always the +purchaser of portions of tickets at every drawing, and occasionally +becomes a winner. A thrifty Chinaman, for there are some such even in +Havana, bearing the characteristic name of Ah-Lee, connected with a +bricabrac store on the Calzada de la Reina, held a lucky number in the +lottery drawn during our brief stay at the Hotel Telegrafo. When the +prizes were announced, he found that he was entitled to five hundred +dollars. The agents tried to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>pay Ah-Lee in Cuban currency, but he was +too smart for them, and showed them their own announcement promising +to cash all prizes, with the usual discount, in gold. So Ah-Lee got +his prize finally in gold. We were told by one whose experience was +extensive, and whose testimony was worthy of respect, that the coolies +would lie and steal with such apparent innocence as to deceive the +most wary, and that as regards their moral nature it seemed to be +totally undeveloped. For our own part we still sympathize with John. +He has been so outrageously cheated and abused from the hour when he +stepped on board the transport ship which brought him from China up to +the present time that he has learned the trick of it. If he is not +strong enough to demand his rights, we certainly hope that he may have +sufficient cunning to obtain them by outwitting his adversaries.</p> + +<p>In their slave condition the Chinese coolies and the negroes were at +times so affected by a spirit of superstition as to cause them to +commit suicide, the latter actuated, as it seemed, by a feeling of +despair, the former through a vindictive spirit towards their masters. +Both were also moved by a superstitious conviction that their spirits +would at once be returned to their native land, to inhabit a sort of +spirit paradise or intermediate state between earth and heaven. It is +very strange that so peculiar and so similar a belief should be +indigenous in the minds of such distinctive races. At the period when +the free importation from Africa was carried on, the most difficult +thing the planters had to contend with was a proneness to suicide on +the part of those slaves who were newly imported, and who entertained +this same remarkable idea.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> +Though we abhor the entire system of Cuban labor, yet it cannot be +denied that the slaves, so far as material comfort goes, are better +lodged, fed, and cared for than four fifths of the population of +Ireland and India, and, furthermore, this comparison will hold good as +regards a large portion of continental Europe. A well-fed, well-kept +negro is twice as valuable, twice as serviceable to his master as a +neglected one, and no one knows this better than the master who +governs his slaves on purely mercenary grounds, and is yet very +careful to supply liberally their physical wants. These slaves are +descended from various African tribes, whose characteristics are so +marked as to be easily discernible even by strangers. The Congoes are +small in stature, but very agile and good workers, and in past years +they have been a favorite tribe. The Fantees are a larger race of +negroes, hard to manage, and possessing a revengeful nature. Those +from the Gold Coast are still more powerful in body, but are +good-natured and well-liked by planters. The Ebros are less black than +those already named, almost mulatto in complexion, and make favorite +house servants. The Ashantees are of another prominent tribe, and are +also popular as plantation hands, but not numerous.</p> + +<p>The tattooed faces, bodies, and limbs of a large portion of the +slaves, especially of the hands upon the plantations, shows their +African nativity, while the smooth skin and generally greater degree +of intelligence of others show them to have been born in slavery upon +the island. These latter are mostly sought for service in the cities. +They are remarkably healthy when not overworked, and form the most +vigorous part of the population. When an epidemic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> +breaks out among the blacks, it seems to carry them off by wholesale, proving +much more fatal than among the whites. Cholera, small-pox, and pneumonia +sometimes sweep them off at a fearful rate. It is a curious fact that +if a negro is really ill, he requires just twice as much medicine to +affect him as a white person.</p> + +<p>There are said to be three hundred thousand free negroes on the +island, of whom comparatively few are found inland upon the +plantations; they are all inclined to congregate in the cities and +large towns, where, truth compels us to say, they prove to be an idle +and vicious class, and as a body useless both to themselves and to the +public. There are believed to be at present in Cuba about one hundred +and forty thousand male and about sixty thousand female slaves. To +carry on the great industry of the island as systematized by the +planters, this number of hands is entirely inadequate. It is sometimes +asked how there came to be so many free negroes in the island. It +should be clearly understood that the laws which govern Cuba are made +by the home government, not by the planters or natives of Cuba, and +that indirectly these laws have long favored emancipation of the +blacks. For many years any slave has enjoyed the right to go to a +magistrate and have himself appraised, and upon paying the price thus +set upon himself he can receive his free papers. The valuation is made +by three persons, of whom the master appoints one, and the magistrate +two. The slave may pay by installments of fifty dollars at a time, but +he owes his full service to his master until the last and entire +payment is made. If the valuation be twelve hundred dollars, after the +slave has paid one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>hundred he owns one twelfth of himself, and the +master eleven twelfths, and so on. Until all is paid, however, the +master's dominion over the slave is complete. There has also long been +another peculiar law in operation. A slave may on the same valuation +compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay the money +in full, and this has often been done where slave and master disagree. +This law, as will be seen, must have operated as it was designed to +do, as a check upon masters, and as an inducement for them to remove +special causes of complaint and dissatisfaction. It has also enabled +slaveholders of the better class, in the case of ill-usage of blacks, +to relieve them by paying down their appraised value and appropriating +their services to themselves. All this relates to the past rather than +the present, since, as we have explained, the relationship of slave +and master is now so nearly at an end as to render such arrangements +inoperative.</p> + +<p>There was a law promulgated in 1870,—the outgrowth of the revolution +of 1868, which dethroned Isabella II.,—declaring every slave in Cuba +to be free after reaching the age of sixty, and also freeing the +children of all slaves born subsequent to that year. But that law has +been ignored altogether, and was not permitted even to be announced +officially upon the island. In the first place, few hard worked slaves +survive to the age of sixty; and in the second place, the children +have no one to look after or to enforce their rights. Spain never yet +kept troth with her subjects, or with anybody else, and the passage of +the law referred to was simply a piece of political finesse, designed +for the eye of the European states, and more particularly to soothe +England, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>which country had lately showed considerable feeling and +restlessness touching the disregard of all treaties between herself +and Spain.</p> + +<p>The slaves who still remain upon the plantations appear in all outward +circumstances to be thoughtless and comparatively content; their light +and cheerful nature seems to lift them above the influence of brutal +treatment when it is encountered. That they have been called upon to +suffer much by being overtasked and cruelly punished in the past, +there is no doubt whatever, but it may be safely stated that their +condition has been greatly improved of late. The owners are obliged by +law to instruct the slaves in the Catholic faith, but this has never +been heeded to any extent by the planters, though all the children are +baptized in infancy. The law relative to the treatment of the negroes +also prescribes a certain quantity and quality of food to be regularly +furnished to them, but the masters are generally liberal in this +respect, and exceed the requirements of the law, as their mercenary +interest is obviously in that direction. The masters know by +experience that slaves will not work well unless well fed. With no +education or culture whatever, their intelligence remains at the +lowest ebb. "With plenty of food and sleep," said an owner to us, +"they are as easily managed as any other domestic animals."</p> + +<p>Until latterly the slaves have been carefully watched at night, but +nearly all these precautions against their escaping from servitude +seem to have been dropped. They are no longer locked up in corral, +their special night quarters. Of course they are kept within certain +bounds, but the rigorous surveillance under which they have always +lived is no longer in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>force. The two sexes are nominally separated, +but as there is no strict recognition of the marital relation, and +free intercommunication between them really exists, the state of +morality may be imagined. It has always been customary for mothers to +receive certain consideration and partial relief from hard labor +during a reasonable period prior to and subsequent to their +confinement, with encouraging gifts from the masters, which has caused +them generally to covet the condition of maternity. Still the +proportion of female slaves on the plantations has always been so +small, compared with that of the other sex, that not nearly so many +children are born as would be supposed. Female slaves have generally +been sent to town service, even when born on the plantations.</p> + +<p>It has always been clearly understood that the births on the part of +the negroes in Cuba have not nearly kept pace with the number of +deaths among them, even under apparently favorable circumstances. One +has not far to look for the reason of this. Promiscuous intercourse is +undoubtedly the predisposing cause, which is always an outgrowth of a +largely unequal division of the sexes. On the plantations the male +negroes outnumber the females ten to one. In the cities the males are +as five to one. When the slave trade was carried on between Africa and +the island, the plan was to bring over males only, but it was hardly +practicable to adhere strictly to the rule, so women were not declined +when a cargo was being made up and nearly completed. Thus a disparity +was inaugurated which has continued to the present day, with only a +slight equalizing tendency.</p> + +<p>The present plan of freeing the slaves recommends +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +itself to all persons who fully understand the position, and if it be honestly +carried out will soon obliterate the crime of enforced labor upon the +island. A sudden freeing of the blacks, that is, all at once, would +have been attended with much risk to all parties, although justice and +humanity demand their liberation. France tried the experiment in St. +Domingo, and the result was a terrible state of anarchy. Not only did +she lose possession of the island, but the people settled down by +degrees into all the horrors of African savagery, even to cannibalism. +England followed, and generously paid the British planters of Jamaica +for all their slaves, giving the latter unconditional freedom. Of +course this ruined the island commercially, but it was strict justice, +nevertheless. Extreme measures are open to objection even in behalf of +justice. It was hoped that the freed negroes of Jamaica would become +thrifty and industrious, earning fair wages, and that crops would +still be remunerative, but it was not so. The negro of the tropics +will only work when he is compelled, and in the West Indies he has +scarcely more to do, as it regards sustaining life, than to pluck of +the wild fruits and to eat. The sugar plantations of Jamaica have +simply ceased to exist.</p> + +<p>Every reasonable Cuban has long realized that the freedom of the +blacks was but a question of time, and that it must soon be brought +about, but how this could be accomplished without rendering them +liable to the terrible consequences which befell St. Domingo was a +serious problem. The commercial wreck of Jamaica had less terror for +them as an example, since of late their own condition could in that +respect hardly be worse. Therefore, the manumitting +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +of one slave in every four annually, so organized that all shall be free +on January 1, 1888, is considered with great favor by the people generally, +except the most radical of old Spaniards. All are thus prepared for the +change, which is so gradually brought about as to cause no great +shock. It is not unreasonable to believe that the instantaneous +freeing of all the slaves would have led to mutual destruction of +whites and blacks all over the island.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">Slave Trade with Africa. — Where the Slavers made their +Landing. — An Early Morning Ride. — Slaves marching to +Daily Labor. — Fragrance of the Early Day. — Mist upon the +Waters. — A Slave Ship. — A Beautiful but Guilty +Brigantine. — A French Cruiser. — Cunning Seamanship. — A +Wild Goose Chase. — A Cuban Posada. — Visit to a Coffee +Estate. — Landing a Slave Cargo. — A Sight to challenge +Sympathy and Indignation. — Half-Starved Victims. — +Destruction of the Slave Ship.</div> + + +<p>The author's first visit to the island of Cuba was during the year +1845, at a period when the slave traffic was vigorously, though +surreptitiously carried on between Africa and the island. The trade +was continued so late as 1853, and occasional cargoes were brought +over even later, slavers having been captured on the south coast two +years subsequent to the last named date. The slave vessels generally +sought a landing on the south side, both as being nearest and safest +for them, but when they were hard pressed they made a port wherever it +could be most easily reached. A favorite point at the time of which we +speak, was in the Bay of Broa, on the south coast, nearly opposite to +the Isle of Pines. It was here in 1845 that the author witnessed a +scene which forms the theme of the following chapter. A superior +knowledge of all the hidden bays and inlets of the south side gave the +contrabandists great advantages over any pursuing vessel, and their +lighter draught of water enabled them to navigate their small crafts +where it was impossible for a heavy ship to follow.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> +We were on a brief visit to the coffee estate of Don Herero, near +Guines, and having expressed a desire to visit the southern coast, our +host proposed that we should do so together on the following day. We +were to start on horseback quite early in the morning, so as to +accomplish the distance before the heat of the sun should become +oppressive.</p> + +<p>The early day is almost as beautiful as the evenings of this region, a +fact to which we were fully awakened at an early hour, after a +refreshing night's sleep. Don Herero was already awaiting us on the +broad piazza, which we reached in time to see the slaves, directed by +an overseer, file past the house towards the field. "A couple of hours +before sunrise," said our host, "is the best time for them to work, +and we add these two hours to their noon rest, so that it divides the +labor to better advantage and avoids the midday heat." There were +perhaps seventy or eighty of this gang of slaves, one fifth only being +women. Don Herero went among them and exchanged some pleasant words, +mostly with the women, one of whom, evidently in a delicate situation, +he singled out and led aside, directing her to return to the huts. It +seemed that she had prepared to go to the field, but he did not +approve of it, and she acquiesced good naturedly. It was observed also +that he gave her a piece of money with a pleasant word, bidding her to +purchase some coveted piece of finery,—probably a gaudy "bandana," of +whose bright colors the negro women are very fond, binding them +turban-fashion about their curly heads. Another passion among the +Cuban negresses is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even +brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> +As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted +upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their +manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South +American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At +first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the +entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road, +like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural +English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere, +still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance +of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along +at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated +district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by +hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented +shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and +prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with +small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and +abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of +wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their +surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs +of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of +whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which +he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette +sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and +whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline.</p> + +<p>A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle +rise of ground, which opened to our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>view the ocean, and a line of +coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite +early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which +stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more +distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to +disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift +the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time, +however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero +observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen +such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured +us that with the exercise of a little patience we should soon be +rewarded by a clear and extensive view. So dismounting and lighting +our cigars we leaned upon the saddles of the horses and watched the +wreaths of the mist bank gradually dissolving. To the eastward there +jutted out a promontory with a considerable elevation, behind which +the sun began to show his florid countenance. Presently the indistinct +outline of a graceful tracery of spars and cordage greeted the eye +through the misty gauze, growing steadily more and more distinct and +gradually descending towards the sea level, until at last there lay +before us in full view, with a look of treacherous tranquillity, the +dark, low hull of a brigantine.</p> + +<p>"A slaver!" was the mutual and simultaneous exclamation which burst +from our lips as we gazed intently on the small but symmetrical +vessel.</p> + +<p>Don Herero looked particularly intelligent, but said nothing. There +could be no doubt as to the trade which engaged such a clipper craft. +No legitimate commerce was suggested by her appearance, no <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>honest +trade demanded such manifest sacrifice of carrying capacity. It was +very natural that her guilty character should add interest to her +appearance and cause us to examine her very minutely. A short distance +from where we stood there was gathered a group of a dozen or more +persons, who silently regarded the brigantine, but they evinced no +surprise at her appearance there so close to the shore. She was of a +most graceful model, perfect in every line, with bows almost as sharp +as a knife. The rig was also quite unusual and entirely new to us. Her +deck was flush fore and aft. Not so much as an inch of rise was +allowed for a quarter-deck, a style which gave large stowage capacity +below deck, the level of which came up to within a couple of feet of +the cappings of the bulwarks. As we have before intimated, it required +no interpreter to indicate what business the brigantine was engaged +in. A single glance at her, lying in so unfrequented a place, was +enough. The rakish craft was of Baltimore build, of about two hundred +tons measurement, and, like many another vessel turned out by the +Maryland builders, was designed to make successfully the famous middle +passage to or from the coast of Cuba, loaded with kidnapped negroes +from the shores of Africa. The two requisites of these clippers were +great speed and large stowage capacity for a human freight.</p> + +<p>At first it appeared as though Don Herero had purposely brought us +here to witness the scene, but this he insisted was not the case, +declaring that the presence of the slaver was a surprise to him. Be +that as it may, it was clear that a cargo of negroes was about to be +landed, and certain rapid signals had been exchanged by flags from a +neighboring hut <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>ever since the mist lifted. Repulsive as the idea was +to a Northerner, still it would do no good to avoid the sight, and so +we resolved to witness the disembarkation. Our friend, though a +slaveholder, was so more by force of circumstances than through his +own choice; he did not defend the institution at all. His solemn +convictions were entirely against slavery, and he more than once said +he heartily wished that some means might be devised which should +gradually and effectually relieve the planters from the entire system +and its many troubles. Don Herero now lies in one of the tombs in the +Campo Santo, near Havana, but were he living he would doubtless +rejoice at the present manner of solving a question which was so +involved in perplexity during the last of his days.</p> + +<p>While we were exchanging some remarks upon the subject, our attention +was suddenly drawn towards another striking object upon the waters of +the bay.</p> + +<p>Nearly a league beyond the slaver, looming up above the mist, we could +now make out three topmasts, clearly defined, the stately set of +which, with their firm and substantial rig, betrayed the fact that +there floated beneath them the hull of a French or an English +man-of-war, such as was commissioned at that time to cruise in these +waters for the purpose of intercepting and capturing the vessels +engaged in the African slave trade.</p> + +<p>"A cruiser has scented the brigantine," said Don Herero.</p> + +<p>"It certainly appears so," we affirmed.</p> + +<p>"Unless there be sharp eyes on board the little craft, the cruiser +will be down upon her before her people even suspect their danger."</p> + +<p>"The brigantine can hardly escape, at any rate," we suggested.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> +"Don't be too sure," said Don Herero.</p> + +<p>It was impossible for our friend to suppress the nervous anxiety which +so manifestly actuated him as he viewed the new phase of affairs.</p> + +<p>"Look! Look!" he exclaimed.</p> + +<p>While he spoke, a drapery of snow-white canvas fell like magic from +the spars of the slaver, ready to catch the first breath of the breeze +which the stranger was bringing down with him, though the larger +vessel was still partially wrapped in a thin bank or cloud of fog. A +couple of long sweeps were rigged out of either bow of the brigantine, +and her prow, which just before was heading shoreward, was swung to +seaward, while her canvas was trimmed to catch the first breath of the +on-coming breeze.</p> + +<p>"This looks like business," said Don Herero with emphasis, at the same +time shading his eyes with both hands to get a better view of the +situation.</p> + +<p>"Can you define the new-comer's nationality?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"Not yet."</p> + +<p>"See! she is now in full sight."</p> + +<p>"French!" exclaimed Don Herero, as the tri-colors were clearly visible +hanging from her peak.</p> + +<p>"What will the cruiser do with the brigantine?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"First catch your hare," said our friend.</p> + +<p>Our host then explained that the slaver had evidently intended to land +her cargo under cover of the night, but had been prevented by the mist +from coming to anchor in time. Fog, being so seldom known on this +coast, had not entered into their calculations. She had most likely +felt her way towards the shore by soundings, and was waiting for full +daylight when we discovered her.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> +While this explanation was being made, the brigantine had already got +steerage way upon her, aided by the steady application of the sweeps, +and her sharp bow was headed off shore. Nothing on the sea, unless it +were a steamer, could hold speed with these fly-aways, which were +built for just such emergencies as the present. The gradually +freshening breeze had now dispersed the mist, and the two vessels were +clearly in view from the shore and to each other. The remarkable +interest of the scene increased with each moment. Don Herero, with all +the excitability of his nationality, could hardly contain himself as +he walked rapidly back and forth, always keeping his eyes towards the +sea.</p> + +<p>The cruiser had come down under an easy spread of canvas, wearing a +jib, three topsails, fore, main, and mizzen, and her spanker. It did +not appear as if she had any previous intimation of the presence of +the slaver, but rather that she was on the watch for just such a +quarry as chance had placed within reach of her guns. The moment she +discovered the brigantine, and at a signal which we could not hear +upon the land, a hundred dark objects peopled her shrouds and spars, +and sail after sail of heavy duck was rapidly dropped and sheeted +home, until the mountain of canvas began to force the large hull +through the water with increasing speed.</p> + +<p>In the mean time the lesser craft had been by no means idle. In +addition to the regular square and fore and aft sails of a brigantine, +she had a mizzen-mast stepped well aft not more than four feet from +her taffrail, upon which she had hoisted a spanker and gaff-topsail, +thus completing a most graceful and effective rig, and spreading a +vast amount of canvas <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>for a vessel of her moderate tonnage. It was +quite impossible to take one's eyes off the two vessels. It was a race +for life with the slaver, whose people worked with good effect at the +sweeps and in trimming their sails to make the most out of the light +but favorable wind that was filling them. The larger vessel would have +made better headway in a stiff breeze or half a gale of wind, but the +present moderate breeze favored the guilty little brigantine, which +was every moment forging ahead and increasing the distance between +herself and her enemy.</p> + +<p>"Do you see that commotion on the cruiser's bow?" asked our friend +eagerly.</p> + +<p>"Some men are gathered on the starboard bow," was our answer.</p> + +<p>"Ay, and now she runs out a gun!"</p> + +<p>That was plain enough to see. The cruiser trained a bow-chaser to bear +on the slaver, and the boom of the gun came sluggishly over the sea a +few seconds after the puff of smoke was seen. A quick eye could see +the dash of the shot just astern of the brigantine, where it must have +cast the spray over her quarter-deck. After a moment's delay, as if to +get the true range, a second, third, and fourth shot followed, each +ricochetting through and over the slight waves either to starboard or +port of the slaver, without any apparent effect. The brigantine, still +employing her sweeps, and with canvas well trimmed, took no notice of +the shots.</p> + +<p>Every time the gun was discharged on board the cruiser, it became +necessary to fall off her course just a point or two in order to get a +proper aim, and her captain was quick to see the disadvantage of this, +as he was only assisting the slaver to widen the distance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>between +them. It would seem to the uninitiated to be the easiest thing +possible to cripple the brigantine by a few well directed shots, but +when sailing in the wake of an enemy this is by no means so easily +done. Besides, the distance between the two vessels, which was +considerable, was momentarily increasing. Notwithstanding that the +broad spread of canvas on board the slaver made her a conspicuous +mark, still, so far as could be seen or judged of by her movements, +she remained untouched by half a dozen shots, more or less, which the +cruiser sent after her as she slipped away from her big adversary. We +could even see that the sweeps were now taken in, showing that the +master of the slaver considered the game to be in his own hands.</p> + +<p>"The brigantine steers due south," said our friend, rubbing his hands +together eagerly. "She will lead the Frenchman a wild goose chase +among the Cayman Isles, where he will be most likely to run aground +with his heavy draught of water. The sea round about for leagues is +underlaid by treacherous coral reefs. We shall see, we shall see," he +reiterated.</p> + +<p>"But they must certainly have a good pilot on board the cruiser," we +ventured to say.</p> + +<p>"Undoubtedly," replied Don Herero, "but the brigantine is built with a +centre-board, thus having, as it were, a portable keel, and can sail +anywhere that a man could swim, while the cruiser, with all her +armament, must draw nearly three fathoms. A ship will sometimes follow +a chase into dangerous water."</p> + +<p>"True," we responded, "the brigantine's safety lies in seeking shoal +water."</p> + +<p>"You are right, and that will be her game."</p> + +<p>In half an hour both vessels were hull down in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>offing, and were +soon invisible from our point of view. The early ride and subsequent +excitement had developed in us a healthy appetite, and we were +strongly reminded of the fact that we had not breakfasted. We were +near the little hamlet of Lenore, where there was a small inn, which +we had passed on the way, and towards which we now turned our horses' +heads. A breakfast of boiled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee was +prepared for us and well served, much to our surprise, supplemented by +a large dish of various fruits, ripe and delicious. Don Herero had +left us for a few moments while the breakfast was preparing, and it +must have been owing to his intelligent instructions that we were so +nicely served, for, as a rule, country posadas in Cuba are places to +be avoided, being neither cleanly nor comfortable. For strangers they +are not entirely safe, as they are frequented by a very rough class of +people. These idlers do not indulge in spirituous liquors to excess, +partaking only of the light Cataline wine in universal use both in +Spain and her colonies. Intemperance is little seen outside the large +cities, but gambling and quarreling are ever rampant among the class +who frequent these posadas. In the present instance there were a dozen +and more individuals in the Lenore inn who were more or less connected +with the expected arrival of the slave brigantine, and the +disappointment caused by the arrival upon the scene of the French +cruiser had put them all in a very bad humor. Angry words were being +exchanged among them in the large reception apartment, and Don Herero +suggested that we should finish our cigars under an inviting shade in +the rear of the posada.</p> + +<p>At our host's suggestion a neighboring coffee plantation +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> +was visited, and its floral and vegetable beauties thoroughly enjoyed. It was in +the very height of fragrance and promise, the broad expanse of the +plantation, as far as the eye could extend, being in full bloom. Some +hours were agreeably passed in examining the estate, the slaves' +quarters, and the domestic arrangements, and also in partaking of the +hospitalities of the generous owner, after which we rode back to +Lenore.</p> + +<p>"We must not miss the closing act of our little drama," said Don +Herero, significantly.</p> + +<p>"The closing act?" we inquired.</p> + +<p>"Certainly. You do not suppose we have yet done with the brigantine?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, the brigantine. Will she dare to return, now the cruiser has +discovered her?"</p> + +<p>"Of course she will, after dropping her pursuer. Strange that these +French cruisers do not understand these things better; but so it is."</p> + +<p>And Don Herero explained that the French cruisers watched the southern +coasts of the island, while the English cruised on the northern shore, +attempted to blockade it, and also cruised farther seaward, on the +line between Africa and Cuba. A couple of American men-of-war, engaged +in the same purpose of suppressing the slave trade, patrolled the +African coast. It was nearly night before we got through our dinner at +the posada. Just as we were preparing to leave the table, the landlord +came in and announced to Don Herero that if we desired to witness the +close of the morning's business in the bay, we must hurry up to the +plateau.</p> + +<p>We hastened to our former position, reaching it just in time to see +the brigantine again rounding the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>headland. She now ran in close to +the shore, where there seemed to be hardly water sufficient to float +her, but the exactness and system which characterized her movements +showed that her commander was not a stranger to the little bay in +which he had brought his vessel. All was instantly bustle and +activity, both on board and on shore. There were not more than twenty +people to be seen at the shore, but each one knew his business, and +went about it intelligently. There was no more loud talking or +disputation. These men, all armed, were accustomed to this sort of +thing, and had evidently been awaiting the slaver's arrival for some +days. They were a rough-looking set of desperadoes, among whom we +recognized several who had been at the posada.</p> + +<p>The brigantine was quickly moored as near to the shore as possible, +and a broad gangway of wood was laid from her deck to a projecting +rock, over which a long line of dark objects was hurried, like a flock +of sheep, and nearly as naked as when born into the world. We walked +down to the landing-place, in order to get a closer view. The line of +human beings who came out from below the deck of the slaver were +mostly full-grown men, but occasionally a woman or a boy came out and +hastened forward with the rest. As we drew nearer, one or two of the +women, it was observed, had infants in their arms, little unconscious +creatures, sound asleep, and so very young that they must have been +born on the voyage. How the entire scene appealed to our indignation +and sympathy! What misery these poor creatures must have endured, +cooped up for twenty-one days in that circumscribed space! They were +all shockingly emaciated, having sustained life on a few ounces of rice +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> +and a few gills of water daily distributed to them. The +atmosphere, thoroughly poisoned when so confined, had proved fatal to +a large number. As we stood there, one dark body was passed up from +below the deck and quietly dropped into the bay. Life was extinct. It +was quite impossible to suppress a shudder as we looked upon the +disgraceful scene, which being observed Don Herero said,—</p> + +<p>"They look bad enough now, but a few days in the open air, with a +plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits, and sweet water to drink, will +bring them round. They will get a good bath directly at the first +river they cross, which is the thing they most require."</p> + +<p>While our friend was speaking, four tall, gaunt, fierce-looking +negroes passed us, shackled two by two at the wrists. Their eyes +rolled curiously about, full of wonder at all they saw, everything was +to them so strange. They knew no more than children just born what was +in store for them.</p> + +<p>"Poor fellows!" we ejaculated. Perhaps they detected sympathy in the +tone of voice in which the words were uttered. They could not +understand their purport, but all four were observed to turn their +eyes quickly towards us, with an intelligent expression.</p> + +<p>"These are Ashantees," said Don Herero. "They have thriven but poorly +on their small allowance of nourishment, but they will improve rapidly +like the rest, now they have landed. They belong to a powerful tribe +in Africa, and are rarely captured and sold to the factories on the +coast. They are sturdy and serviceable fellows, but they must be +humored. The lash will not subdue them. They bring a high price in +Havana for harbor workers."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> +Hastening back to the posada, a large basket of cassava bread and an +abundance of ripe bananas and oranges, with half a dozen bottles of +wine, were procured. With these, carried by a couple of colored boys, +we hastened back to the landing-place in time to distribute the +refreshments to all the women and boys. The balance of the provisions +were dealt out to the few men who had not already been hurried away +from the spot. It is impossible to describe the surprise and grateful +expression upon those dusky faces among the half-famished creatures, +as they eagerly swallowed a portion of the wine, and ate freely of the +delicious fruit and nourishing bread.</p> + +<p>We were told afterwards that there were about three hundred and fifty +of these poor creatures originally embarked, and over three hundred +were landed. Perhaps between thirty and forty had died on the passage, +unable to sustain life under such awful circumstances, packed, as they +necessarily were, almost like herring in a box. Once a day, in fair +weather, thirty or forty at a time were permitted to pass a half hour +on deck. That was all the respite from their confinement which they +enjoyed during the three weeks' voyage. The horrors of the "middle +passage" have not been exaggerated.</p> + +<p>"They must have lost many of their number by death, on the voyage," we +suggested to Don Herero, as we observed their weak and tremulous +condition.</p> + +<p>"Doubtless," was the response.</p> + +<p>"And what do they do in that case?"</p> + +<p>"They have the ocean always alongside," was his significant reply.</p> + +<p>"They throw them over as they did that body just now?" we asked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> +"Exactly. And many a poor sick creature is cast into the sea before +life is extinct," he continued.</p> + +<p>"That is adding murder to piracy," was our natural and indignant +rejoinder.</p> + +<p>"Hush!" said Don Herero, "these are sensitive people, and desperate +ones, as well. I should find it difficult to protect you if they were +to overhear and understand such words."</p> + +<p>We realized that his remarks were true enough. We were in a land of +slavery, and that meant that everything evil was possible.</p> + +<p>The last of the living freight had been landed, and arranged in +marching trim they were turned with their faces inland, staggering as +they went, their swollen and cramped limbs hardly able to sustain the +weight of their bodies. They were all secured with handcuffs, twenty +in a lot, between whom,—there being ten on a side,—a pole was +placed, and each was fastened by a chain running through the steel +handcuffs to the pole. An armed Spaniard directed each lot. The faces +of all were quite expressionless. They had just endured such horrors +packed beneath the deck of the brigantine that the present change must +have been welcome to them, lame as they were.</p> + +<p>We had been so completely engaged in watching the colored gangs and in +moving up to our lookout station of the early morning that our +thoughts had not reverted to anything else, but as the last lot filed +by there boomed over the waters of the bay the heavy report of a gun, +at once calling our attention seaward. A change had come over the +scene. That which has taken some space to relate had transpired with +great rapidity. Night had settled over the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>scene, but the moon and +stars were so marvelously bright as to render objects almost as plain +as by day. The ocean lay like a sheet of silver, luminous with the +reflected light poured upon it by the sparkling skies. Looking towards +the southeast, we saw the French cruiser rounding the headland which +formed the eastern arm of the little bay, and she had already sent a +shot across the water aimed at the brigantine. Don Herero had +prognosticated correctly. The slaver had led the cruiser a fruitless +chase and lost her among the islands, and then returning to her former +anchorage had successfully discharged her cargo. Her tactics could not +have been anticipated by the cruiser, yet had an armed party been left +behind in boats, the brigantine might have been captured on her +return. But then again, if the cruiser had left a portion of her crew +at this point, the slaver would have been notified by the friends on +shore, and would have sought a landing elsewhere.</p> + +<p>The brigantine had cast off her moorings and was now standing seaward, +with her sails filled. We could distinctly see a quarter boat leave +her side manned by some of her crew, who at once pulled towards the +nearest landing. At the same time a bright blaze sprang up on board +the slaver just amidships, and in a moment more it crept, like a +living serpent, from shroud to shroud and from spar to spar, until the +graceful brigantine was one sheet of flame! It was dazzling to look +upon, even at the distance where we stood, the body of high-reaching +flame being sharply defined against the background of sky and blue +water.</p> + +<p>While we watched the glowing view the cruiser cautiously changed her +course and bore away, for fire <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>was an enemy with which she could not +contend. Presently there arose a shower of blazing matter heavenward, +while a confused shock and a dull rumbling report filled the +atmosphere, as the guilty brigantine was blown to atoms! Hemmed in as +she was there could be no hope of escape. Her mission was ended, and +her crew followed their usual orders, to destroy the ship rather than +permit her to fall a prize to any government cruisers.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">Antique Appearance of Everything. — The Yeomen of Cuba. — A Montero's Home. — Personal Experience. — The Soil of the +Island. — Oppression by the Government. — Spanish Justice +in Havana. — Tax upon the Necessities of Life. — The +Proposed Treaty with Spain. — A One-Sided Proposition. — A +Much Taxed People. — Some of the Items of Taxation. — Fraud +and Bankruptcy. — The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. — +Destiny of Cuba. — A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. — +Political Condition. — Pictures of Memory.</div> + + +<p>Everything in Cuba has an aspect of antiquity quite Egyptian. The +style of the buildings is not unlike that of the Orient, while the +trees and vegetable products increase the resemblance. The tall, +majestic palms, the graceful cocoanut trees, the dwellings of the +lower classes and many other peculiarities give to the scenery an +Eastern aspect quite impressive. It is impossible to describe the +vividness with which each object, artificial or natural, house or +tree, stands out in the clear liquid light where there is no haze to +interrupt the view. Indeed, it is impossible to express how +essentially everything differs in this sunny island from our own +country. The language, the people, the climate, the manners and +customs, the architecture, the foliage, the flowers, all offer broad +contrasts to what the American has so lately left behind him. It +is but a long cannon shot, as it were, off our southern coast, yet +once upon its soil the stranger seems to have been transported to +another quarter of the globe. It would require but little effort +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> +of the imagination to believe one's self in distant Syria, or some remoter +part of Asia.</p> + +<p>One never tires of watching the African population, either in town or +country. During the hours which the slaves are allowed to themselves, +they are oftenest seen working on their own allotted piece of ground, +where they raise favorite fruits and vegetables, besides corn for +fattening the pig penned up near by, and for which the drover who +regularly visits the plantations will pay them in good hard money. +Thus it has been the case, in years past, that thrifty slaves have +earned the means of purchasing their freedom, after which they have +sought the cities, and have swelled the large numbers of free negroes +who naturally tend towards these populous centres. Some become +caleseros, some labor upon the water-front of the town as stevedores, +porters, and the like, but the majority are confirmed idlers. In the +cities even the slaves have always had a less arduous task to perform +than those on the plantations. They are less exposed to the sun, and +are as a rule allowed more freedom and privileges. The women never +fail to exhibit the true negro taste for cheap jewelry. A few gaudy +ribbons and a string of high-colored glass beads about the neck are +greatly prized by them. Sometimes the mistress of a good looking +negress takes great pleasure in decking her immediate attendant in +grand style, with big gold finger rings, large hoop earrings, wide +gold necklace, and the like. A bright calico gown and a flaring +bandana kerchief bound about the head generally complete the costume +of these petted slaves. There was one sight observed in the church of +Santa Clara of significance in this connection. Before the altar all +distinction ceased, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>and the negress knelt on the same bit of carpet +beside the mistress.</p> + +<p>The native soil of Cuba is so rich that a touch of the hoe prepares it +for the plant. It is said to be unsurpassed in the world in this +respect, and only equaled by Australia. The Monteros have little more +to do than to gather produce, which they carry daily to the nearest +market, and which also forms their own healthful and palatable food. +Nowhere are the necessities of life so easily supplied, or are men so +delicately nurtured. And yet to our Northern eye these Monteros seemed +rather a forlorn sort of people, forming a class by themselves, and +regarded with disdain by the Spaniards and most Creoles, as our +Southern slaveholders used to regard the poor whites of the South. If +one may judge by appearances they are nearly as poor in purse as they +can be. Their home, rude and lowly, consists generally of a cabin with +a bamboo frame, covered by a palm-leaf roof, and with an earthen +floor. There are a few broken hedges, and numbers of ragged or naked +children. Pigs, hens, goats, all stroll ad libitum in and out of the +cabin. The Montero's tools—few and poorly adapted—are Egyptian-like +in primitiveness, while the few vegetables are scarcely cultivated at +all. The chaparral about his cabin is low, tangled, and thorny, but it +is remarkable what a redeeming effect a few graceful palms impart to +the crudeness of the picture.</p> + +<p>The Montero raises, perhaps, some sweet potatoes, which, by the bye, +reach a very large size in Cuban soil. He has also a little patch of +corn, but <i>such</i> corn. When ripe it is only three or four feet in +height, or less than half the average of our New <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>England growth, the +ears mere nubbins. This corn grows, however, all the year round, and +is fed green to horses and cattle. All this is done upon a very small +scale. No one lays in a stock of anything perishable. The farmer's or +the citizen's present daily necessities alone are provided for. +Idleness and tobacco occupy most of the Montero's time, varied by the +semi-weekly attractions of the cock-pit. The amount of sustaining food +which can be realized from one of these little patches of ground, so +utterly neglected, is something beyond credence to those who have not +looked bountiful nature in the face in Cuba.</p> + +<p>While traveling in the vicinity of Guines, the author stopped at one +of these lonely Montero homes to obtain water and refreshment for his +horse. These were promptly furnished in the form of a pail of water +and a bundle of green cornstalks. In the mean time the rude +hospitality of the cabin was proffered to us, and we gladly sat down +to partake of cocoanut milk and bananas. One of the family pets of the +cabin consisted of a tall white bird of the crane species, which, +regardless of goat, kid, hens, chickens, and children, came boldly to +our side as though accustomed to be petted, and greedily devoured the +banana which was peeled for him and cut into tempting bits. One wing +had evidently been cut so that the bird could not fly away, but his +long, vigorous legs would have defied pursuit, had he desired to +escape. Four children, two of each sex, two of whom were white and two +mulatto, quite naked, and less than ten years of age, kept close to +the Montero's Creole wife, watching us with big, wondering eyes, and +fingers thrust into their mouths. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>What relationship they bore to the +household was not clearly apparent. On rising to depart and attempting +to pay for the entertainment, the master of the cabin, with true Cuban +hospitality, declined all remuneration; but a handful of small silver +divided among the children satisfied all, and we parted with a hearty +pressure of the hand.</p> + +<p>The richest soil of the island is black, which is best adapted to +produce the sugar-cane, and is mostly devoted, if eligibly located, to +that purpose. To a Northerner, accustomed to see so much enrichment +expended upon the soil to force from it an annual return, this +profuseness of unstimulated yield is a surprise. The red soil of Cuba, +which is impregnated with the oxide of iron, is less rich, and is +better adapted to the coffee plantation. The mulatto-colored earth is +considered to be inferior to either of the others named, but is by no +means unproductive, being preferred by the tobacco growers, who, +however, often mingle a percentage of other soils with it, as we +mingle barnyard refuse with our natural soil. Some tobacco planters +have resorted by way of experiment to the use of guano, hoping to +stimulate the native properties of the soil, but its effect was found +to be not only exhausting to the land, but also bad for the leaf, +rendering it rank and unfit for delicate use.</p> + +<p>Coal is found near Havana, though it is of rather an inferior quality, +and, so far as we could learn, is but little used, the planters +depending mostly upon the refuse of the cane with which to run their +boilers and engines. Trees have been only too freely used for fuel +while accessible, but great care is now taken to utilize the cane +after the juice is expressed. Trees, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>which are so much needed in this +climate for shade purposes, have mostly disappeared near Havana. When +Columbus first landed here he wrote home to Spain that the island was +so thickly wooded as to be impassable.</p> + +<p>The lovely climate and beautiful land are rendered gloomy by the state +of oppression under which they suffer. The exuberant soil groans with +the burdens which are heaped upon it. The people are not safe from +prying inquiry at bed or board. Their every action is watched, their +slightest words noted and perhaps distorted. They can sing no song of +liberty, and even to hum an air wedded to republican verse is to +provoke suspicion. The press is muzzled by the iron hand of power. Two +hours before a daily paper is distributed on the streets of Havana, a +copy must be sent to the government censor. When it is returned with +his indorsement it may be issued to the public. The censorship of the +telegraph is also as rigorously enforced. Nor do private letters +through the mails escape espionage. No passenger agent in Havana dares +to sell a ticket for the departure of a stranger or citizen without +first seeing that the individual's passport is indorsed by the police. +Foreign soldiers fatten upon the people, or at least they eat out +their substance, and every town near the coast is a garrison, every +interior village a military depot.</p> + +<p>Upon landing, if well advised, one is liberal to the petty officials. +Chalk is cheap. A five-dollar gold-piece smooths the way wonderfully, +and causes the inspector to cross one's baggage with his chalk and no +questions asked. No gold, no chalk! Every article must be scrupulously +examined. It is cheapest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>to pay, humiliating as it is, and thus +purchase immunity.</p> + +<p>As a specimen of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Havana +to-day, a case is presented which occurred during our stay at the +Telegrafo Hotel. A native citizen was waylaid by three men and robbed +of his pocket-book and watch, about fifty rods from the hotel, at +eight o'clock in the evening. The rascal who secured the booty, +threatening his victim all the while with a knife at his throat, +instantly ran away, but the citizen succeeded in holding on to the +other two men until his outcries brought the police to the spot. The +two accomplices were at once imprisoned. Three days later they were +brought before an authorized court, and tried for the robbery. Being +taken red-handed, as it were, one would suppose their case was clear +enough, and that they would be held until they gave up their +accomplice. Not so, however. The victim of the robbery, who had lost a +hundred and sixty dollars in money and a valuable gold watch, was +coolly rebuked for carrying so much property about his person, and the +case was dismissed! Had the sufferer been a home Spaniard possibly the +result would have been different. The inference is plain and doubtless +correct, that the official received half the stolen property, provided +he would liberate the culprits. Sometimes, as we were assured, the +victim outbids the rogues, and exemplary punishment follows!</p> + +<p>Flour of a good commercial quality sells at present in Boston for six +dollars per barrel. Why should it cost fourteen dollars in Havana and +other ports of Cuba? Because Spain demands a tax of one hundred per +cent. to be paid into the royal treasury upon <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>this prime necessity of +life. This one example is sufficient to illustrate her policy, which +is to extort from the Cubans every possible cent that can be obtained. +The extraordinary taxation imposed upon their subjects by the German +and Austrian governments is carried to the very limit, it would seem, +of endurance, but taxation in Cuba goes far beyond anything of the +sort in Europe. Spain now asks us to execute with her a "favorable" +reciprocity treaty. Such a treaty as she proposes would be of very +great benefit to Spain, no doubt, but of none, or comparatively none, +to us. Whatever we seemingly do for Cuba in the matter of such a +treaty we should do indirectly for Spain. She it is who will reap all +the benefit. She has still upon her hands some fifty to sixty thousand +civil and military individuals, who are supported by a miserable +system of exaction as high and petty officials in this misgoverned +island.</p> + +<p>It is for the interest of this army of locusts in possession to keep +up the present state of affairs,—it is bread and butter to them, +though it be death to the Cubans. Relieved of the enormous taxation +and oppression generally which her people labor under in every +department of life, Cuba would gradually assume a condition of thrift +and plenty. But while she is so trodden upon, so robbed in order to +support in luxury a host of rapacious Spaniards, and forbidden any +voice in the control of her own affairs, all the treaty concessions +which we could make to Spain would only serve to keep up and +perpetuate the great farce. Such a treaty as is proposed would be in +reality granting to Spain a subsidy of about thirty million dollars +per annum! This conclusion was arrived at after consultation with +three of the principal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>United States consuls on the island. Cuba +purchases very little from us; she has not a consuming population of +over three hundred thousand. The common people, negroes, and Chinese +do not each expend five dollars a year for clothing. Rice, codfish, +and dried beef, with the abundant fruits, form their support. Little +or none of these come from the United States. The few consumers wear +goods which we cannot, or at least do not produce. A reciprocity +treaty with such a people means, therefore, giving them a splendid +annual subsidy.</p> + +<p>Taxed by the government to the very last extreme, the landlords, +shopkeepers, and all others who work for hire have also learned the +trick of it, and practice a similar game on every possible victim. +Seeing a small desirable text book in a shop on the Calle de Obrapia, +we asked the price.</p> + +<p>"Two dollars, gold, señor," was the answer.</p> + +<p>"Why do you charge just double the price one would pay for it in +Madrid, Paris, or New York?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"Because we are so heavily taxed," was the reply, and the shopman went +on to illustrate.</p> + +<p>Each small retail store is taxed three hundred dollars for the right +to do business. As the store increases in size and importance the tax +is increased. A new tax of six per cent. on the amount of all other +taxation has just been added, to cover the cost of collecting the +whole! A war tax of twenty-five per cent. upon incomes was laid in +1868, and though the war has been ended ten years it is still +collected. Every citizen or resident in Havana is obliged to supply +himself with a document which is called a cedula, or paper of +identification, at an annual cost of five <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>dollars in gold. Every +merchant who places a sign outside of his door is taxed so much per +letter annually. Clerks in private establishments have to pay two and +one half per cent. of their quarterly salaries to government. +Railroads pay a tax of ten per cent. upon all passage money received, +and the same on all freight money. Petty officials invent and impose +fines upon the citizens for the most trifling things, and strangers +are mulcted in various sums of money whenever a chance occurs, +generally liquidating the demand rather than to be at the cost of time +and money to contest their rights. The very beggars in the streets, +blind, lame, or diseased, if found in possession of money, are forced +to share it with officials on some outrageous pretext. All these +things taken into consideration show us why the shopkeeper of Havana +must charge double price for his merchandise. We have only named a few +items of taxation which happen to occur to us, and which only form a +commencement of the long list.</p> + +<p>It is nearly impossible at present to collect a note or an account on +the island. Several of the guests at the Telegrafo had come from the +United States solely upon these fruitless errands, each having the +same experience to relate. Dishonest debtors take advantage of the +general state of bankruptcy which exists, and plead utter inability to +meet their obligations, while others, who would gladly pay their +honest debts if it were possible, have not the means to do so.</p> + +<p>There is considerable counterfeit paper money in circulation, and we +were told that the banks of the city of Havana actually paid it out +knowingly over their own counters, mixed in with genuine bills,—a +presumed perquisite of the bank officers! This <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>unprecedented fraud +was not put a stop to until the merchants and private bankers +threatened to have the doors of the banks closed by popular force if +the outrage was longer continued. Could such a public fraud be carried +on under any other than a Spanish government? It is not pleasant to +record the fact, but it is nevertheless true that the Spaniards in +Cuba are artful, untruthful, unreliable even in small things, with no +apparent sense of honor, and seeking just now mainly how they can best +avoid their honest obligations. As evil communications are contagious, +the Cubans have become more or less impregnated with this spirit of +commercial dishonesty. It must be admitted that of true, conscientious +principles neither party has any to spare.</p> + +<p>The writer has often been asked about Moro Castle. Much has been said +about its "impregnable" character, but modern military science will +not recognize any such theory. A thousand chances are liable to +happen, any one of which might give the place into the hands of an +invading force. Has it not already been twice taken? Though it may be +said that auxiliary forts have been added since those experiences, +nevertheless modern artillery would make but short work of the boasted +defenses of Havana, and would knock the metropolis itself all to +pieces in a few hours, while lying out of range from Moro Castle. No +invading force need attack from the seaward side, unless it should be +found particularly desirable to do so. The place could be easily +taken, as the French took Algiers, by landing a sufficient force in +the rear. With the exception of the fortresses in and about Havana, +the island, with its two thousand miles of coast line and nearly one +hundred accessible <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>harbors, is certainly very poorly prepared to +resist an invading enemy. Cuba's boasted military or defensive +strength is chimerical.</p> + +<p>That the island naturally belongs to this country is a fact so plain +as to have been conceded by all authorities. In this connection one is +forcibly reminded of the words of Jefferson in a letter to President +Monroe, so long ago as 1823, wherein he says: "I candidly confess that +I have ever looked on Cuba as the most interesting addition which +could be made to our system of States. The control which, with Florida +Point, this island would give us over the Gulf of Mexico and the +countries and the isthmus bordering it, would fill up the measure of +our political well-being." Is it generally known that Cuba was once +freely offered to this government? During the presidency of Jefferson, +while Spain was bowed beneath the yoke of France, the people of the +island, feeling themselves incompetent to maintain their independence, +sent a deputation to Washington city proposing its annexation to the +federal system of North America. The President, however, declined to +even consider the proffered acquisition. Again, in 1848, President +Polk authorized our minister at Madrid to offer a hundred million +dollars for a fee simple of the island, but it was rejected by Spain.</p> + +<p>Completely divided against itself, the mystery is how Cuba has been so +long sustained in its present system. Spain has crowded regiment after +regiment of her army into the island. It was like pouring water into a +sieve, the troops being absorbed by death almost as fast as they could +be landed. The combined slaughter brought about by patriot bullets, +hardships, exposure, fever, and every possible adverse <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>circumstance +has been enormous beyond belief. In spite of all this sacrifice of +human life, besides millions of gold expended annually, what does +Spain gain by holding tenaciously to her title of the island? Nothing, +absolutely nothing. The time has long passed when the system of +extortion enforced upon the Cubans served to recuperate the royal +treasury. The tide has entirely changed in this respect, and though +the taxation has been increased, still the home government is mulcted +in the sum of six or eight millions of dollars annually to keep up the +present worse than useless system. The deficit of the Cuban budget for +the present year, as we were credibly informed, could not be less than +eight millions of dollars. How is Spain to meet this continuous drain +upon her resources? She is already financially bankrupt. It is in this +political strait that she seeks a one-sided treaty with the United +States, by means of which she hopes to eke out her possession of the +island a few years longer, through our liberality,—a treaty by which +she would gain some thirty millions of dollars annually, and we should +be just so much the poorer.</p> + +<p>As regards the final destiny of Cuba, that question will be settled by +certain economic laws which are as sure in their operation as are +those of gravitation. No matter what our wishes may be in the matter, +such individual desires are as nothing when arraigned against natural +laws. The commerce of the island is a stronger factor in the problem +than mere politics; it is the active agent of civilization all over +the world. It is not cannon, but ships; not gunpowder, but peaceful +freights, which settle the great questions of mercantile communities. +Krupp's hundred-ton guns will <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>not control the fate of Cuba, but sugar +will. We have only to ask ourselves, Whither does the great commercial +interest of the island point? It is in the direction in which the +largest portion of her products find their market. If this were +England, towards that land her industry and her people would look +hopefully, but as it is the United States who take over ninety per +cent. of her entire exports, towards the country of the Stars and +Stripes she stretches out her hands, and asks for favorable treaties.</p> + +<p>At the present moment she has reached a crisis, where her condition is +absolutely desperate. The hour is big with fate to the people of Cuba. +As long as European soil will produce beets, the product of the cane +will find no market on that side of the Atlantic. Cuba must in the +future depend as much upon the United States as does Vermont, +Mississippi, New York, Ohio, or any other State. The effort to bring +about a reciprocal treaty of commerce with us is but the expression of +a natural tendency to closer bonds with this country. Thus it will be +seen that as regards her commercial existence, Cuba is already within +the economic orbit of our Union, though she seems to be so far away +politically. The world's centre of commercial gravity is changing very +fast by reason of the great and rapid development of the United +States, and all lands surrounding the union must conform to the +prevailing lines of motion.</p> + +<p>It is with infinite reluctance that the temporary sojourner in Cuba +leaves her delicious shores. A brief residence in the island passes +like a midsummer night's dream, while the memories one brings away +seem almost like delusive spots of the imagination. Smiling skies and +smiling waters; groves of palms and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>oranges; the bloom of the +heliotrope, the jasmine and the rose; flights of strange and gaudy +birds; tropic nights at once luxurious and calm; clouds of fireflies +floating like unsphered stars on the night breeze; graceful figures of +dark-eyed señoritas in diaphanous drapery; picturesque groups of +Monteros, relieved by the dusky faces and stalwart forms of the sons +of Africa; undulating volantes, military pageants, ecclesiastical +processions, frowning fortresses, grim batteries, white sails, +fountains raining silver; all these images mingle in brilliant +kaleidoscopic combinations, changing and varying as the mind's eye +seeks to fix their features. Long after his departure from the +enchanting island, the traveler beholds these visions in the still +watches of the night, and again listens to the dash of the sea-green +waves at the foot of the Moro and the Punta, the roll of the drum and +the crash of arms upon the ramparts, or hears in fancy the thrilling +strains of music from the military band in the Paseo de Isabella.</p> + +<p>If it were possible to contemplate only the beautiful that nature has +so prodigally lavished on this Eden of the Gulf, shutting out all that +man has done and is doing to mar the blessings of heaven, while +closing our eyes to the myriad forms of human misery that assail them +on every hand, then a visit to or a residence in Cuba would present a +succession of unalloyed pleasures, delightful as a poet's dream. But +the dark side of the picture will force itself upon us. The American +traveler, keenly alive to the social and political aspects of life, +appreciates in full force the evils that challenge his observation at +every step. If he contrasts the natural scenery with the familiar +pictures of home, he cannot help also contrasting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> the political +condition of the people with that of his own country. The existence, +almost under the shadow of the flag of the freest institutions the +earth ever knew, of a government as purely despotic as that of the +autocrat of Russia is a monstrous fact that must startle the most +indifferent observer.</p> + +<p>To go hence to Cuba is not merely to pass over a few degrees of +latitude,—it is to take a step from the nineteenth century back into +the dark ages. In the clime of sunshine and endless summer, we are in +the land of starless political darkness. Lying under the lee of a land +where every man is a sovereign is a realm where the lives, liberties, +and fortunes of all are held at the will of a single individual, who +acknowledges fealty only to a nominal ruler more than three thousand +miles across the sea.</p> + +<p>In close proximity to a country where the taxes are self-imposed and +so light as to be almost unfelt is one where each free family pays +over five hundred dollars per annum, directly and indirectly, for the +support of a system of bigoted tyranny, scarcely equaled +elsewhere,—forming an aggregate sum of over twenty-six millions of +dollars. For all this extortion no equivalent is received. No +representation, no utterance, for tongue or pen are alike proscribed; +no share of public honors, no office, no emolument. The industry of +the people is crippled, their intercourse with other nations is +hampered in every conceivable manner, and every liberal aspiration of +the human soul stifled in its birth. Can good morals and Christian +lives be expected of a people who are so down-trodden?</p> + +<p>Salubrious in climate, varied in production, and most fortunately +situated for commerce, there must <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>yet be a grand future in store for +Cuba. Washed by the Gulf Stream on half her border, while the +Mississippi pours out its riches on one side and the Amazon on the +other, her home is naturally within our own constellation of stars, +and some of those who read these pages may live to see such a +consummation.</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30130 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba76160 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #30130 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/30130) diff --git a/old/30130-8.txt b/old/30130-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20c2af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/30130-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9296 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by Maturin M. Ballou + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Due South or Cuba Past and Present + +Author: Maturin M. Ballou + +Release Date: September 29, 2009 [EBook #30130] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DUE SOUTH OR CUBA PAST AND PRESENT *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Ritu Aggarwal and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + +1) Passages in italics are surrounded by _underscores_. + +2) A few chapter sub-headings do not end with a period. For consistency, + obvious errors have been corrected by ending these with a period. + +3) A few obvious misprints where sentences did not end with a period have + been corrected. + +4) The words "manoeuvres" and "manoeuvre" use oe ligature in the original. + +5) The following misprints have been corrected: + "which we pet in our" corrected to "which we put in our" (page 243) + "Britian" corrected to "Britain" (page 271) + +6) Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in + spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and ligature usage have been retained. + + + + + DUE SOUTH + OR + CUBA PAST AND PRESENT + + + BY + MATURIN M. BALLOU + AUTHOR OF "DUE WEST; OR ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS" + + + BOSTON AND NEW YORK + HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY + The Riverside Press, Cambridge + + + Copyright, 1885, + By MATURIN M. BALLOU. + + _All rights reserved._ + + + ELEVENTH IMPRESSION + + + _The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A._ + Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these +pages, entitled "Due West; or Round the World in Ten Months," has +suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, +which consists of notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn +in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been to present a +comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict +the political and moral darkness which have so long enshrouded it. +A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful +flora and vegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty +enjoyment to the author that he desires to share the pleasure with +the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical +position of the island, its present critical condition, and the +proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it +at present of unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, +Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, and both are so Moorish +as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics. + + M. M. B. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + PAGE + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. 24 + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. 46 + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. 70 + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. 88 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. 102 + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. 125 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafés. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. 144 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Army. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortége. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. 166 + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor-General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. 184 + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. 200 + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. -- The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. 219 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from San + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. 236 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of San Domingo. -- General Emancipation. 260 + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. 282 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. 300 + + + + + DUE SOUTH. + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. + + +We left Boston in a blustering snow-storm on the morning of February +25th, and reached New York city to find it also clothed in a wintry +garb, Broadway being lined on either side of its entire length with +tall piles of snow, like haycocks, prepared for carting away during +the coming night. Next morning, when we drove to the dock to take +passage on board the steamship Cienfuegos, the snow-mounds had all +been removed. The mail steamer sailed promptly at the hour assigned, +hauled out into the stream by a couple of noisy little tugs, with +two-inch hawsers made fast to stem and stern. Before sunset the pilot +left the ship, which was then headed due south for Nassau, N. P., +escorted by large fields of floating ice, here and there decked with +lazy snow-white sea-gulls. The sharp northwest wind, though +blustering and aggressive, was in our favor, and the ship spread all +her artificial wings as auxiliary to her natural motor. We doubled +Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout well in towards the shore, sighting on +the afternoon of the fourth day the Island of Abaco, largest of the +Bahama Isles, with its famous "Hole in the Wall" and sponge-lined +shore. The woolen clothing worn when we came on board ship had already +become oppressive, the cabin thermometer indicating 72° Fahrenheit. +With nothing to engage the eye save the blue sky and the bluer water, +the most is made of every circumstance at sea, and even trivial +occurrences become notable. The playful dolphins went through their +aquatic pantomime for our amusement. Half a dozen of them started off +just ahead of the cutwater, and raced the ship for two hours, keeping +exactly the same relative distance ahead without any apparent effort. +Scores of others leaped out of the water and plunged in again in +graceful curves, as though they enjoyed the sport. A tiny land bird +flew on board, and was chased all over the ship by one or two +juveniles until caught, panting and trembling with the unwonted +exertion. Presently it was given its liberty, partook freely of bread +crumbs and drank of fresh water, then assumed a perch aloft, where it +carefully dressed its feathers, and after thanking its entertainers +with a few cheerful notes it extended its wings and launched out into +space, no land being in sight. The broken mainmast of a ship, +floating, with considerable top hamper attached, was passed within a +cable's length, suggestive of a recent wreck, and inducing a thousand +dreary surmises. At first it was announced as the sea serpent, but its +true nature was soon obvious. At midnight, March 1st, Nassau light +hove in sight, dimmed by a thin, soft haze, which hung over the water, +and through which the light, by some law of refraction, seemed to be +coming out to meet the ship. Overhead all was bright,--almost dazzling +with unnumbered stars and familiar constellations, like silver +spangles on a background of blue velvet. We anchored off the island an +hour before daylight, the harbor being too shallow to admit the ship. +A forbidding sand bar blocks the entrance, inside of which the water +is but fifteen feet deep. Indeed, Nassau would have no harbor at all +were it not that nature has kindly placed Hog Island in the form of a +break-water, just off the town. The vibrating hull of the Cienfuegos +was once more at rest; the stout heart-throbs, the panting and +trembling, of the great engine had ceased; the wheelhouse and decks +were deserted, and one was fain to turn in below for a brief nap +before landing on this the most populous of the Bahamas. + +The island, which was settled by Europeans as early as 1629, embraces +nearly a hundred square miles, forming an oasis in the desert of +waters. It is sixteen miles long and about one half as wide, +containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, more or less, who can hardly +be designated as an enterprising community. On first landing, +everything strikes the visitor as being peculiarly foreign,--almost +unique. The town is situated on the northerly front of the island, +extending along the shore for a couple of miles, and back to a crest +of land which rises to nearly the height of a hundred feet. This +elevation is crowned by the residence of the English Governor-General, +in front of which may be seen a colossal but not admirable statue of +Columbus. The town boasts a small public library, a museum, theatre, +several small churches, a prison, a hospital, and a bank. The +government maintains one company of infantry, composed of black men, +officered by whites. It must be admitted that they present a fine +military appearance when on parade. Nassau has long been a popular +resort for invalids who seek a soft, equable climate, and as it lies +between the warm South Atlantic and the Gulf Stream it is +characterized by the usual temperature of the tropics. There seemed to +be a certain enervating influence in the atmosphere, under the effects +of which the habitués of the place were plainly struck with a spirit +of indolence. The difference between those just arrived and the +regular guests of the Victoria Hotel, in this respect, could not fail +to be observed. The languidly oppressive warmth imparts a certain +softness to manners, a voluptuous love of idleness, and a glow to the +affections which are experienced with less force at the North. Neither +snow nor frost is ever encountered here, and yet it is as near to +Boston or New York as is the city of Chicago. The temperature, we are +told, never falls below 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, the +variations rarely exceeding five degrees in twenty-four hours. In +Florida a change of twenty degrees is not unusual within the period of +a single day. The thermometer stood at 73° on the first day of March, +and everything was bathed in soft sunlight. + +It is somewhat singular that an island like New Providence, which is +practically without soil, should be so remarkably productive in its +vegetation. It is surrounded by low-lying coral reefs, and is itself +composed of coral and limestone. These, pulverized, actually form the +earth out of which spring noble palm, banana, ceiba, orange, lemon, +tamarind, almond, mahogany, and cocoanut trees, with a hundred and one +other varieties of fruits, flowers, and woods, including the +bread-fruit tree, that natural food for indolent natives of equatorial +regions. Of course in such a soil the plough is unknown, its +substitutes being the pickaxe and crowbar. However, science teaches us +that all soils are but broken and decomposed rock, pulverized by +various agencies acting through long periods of time. So the molten +lava which once poured from the fiery mouth of Vesuvius has become the +soil of thriving vineyards, which produce the priceless Lachryma +Christi wine. This transformation is not accomplished in a lifetime, +but is the result of ages of slow disintegration. + +Among other flowering trees, some strikingly beautiful specimens of +the alligator-pear in full bloom were observed, the blossom suggesting +the passion-flower. While our favorite garden plants at the North are +satisfied to bloom upon lowly bushes, at the South they are far more +ambitious, and develop into tall trees, though sometimes at the +partial expense of their fragrance. The air was full of sweet perfume +from the white blossoms of the shaddock, contrasting with the deep +glossy green of its thick-set leaves, the spicy pimento and cinnamon +trees being also noticeable. With all this charming floral effect the +bird melody which greets the ear in Florida was wanting, though it +would seem to be so natural an adjunct to the surroundings. Nature's +never-failing rule of compensation is manifested here: all the +attractions are not bestowed upon any one class; brilliancy of +feathers and sweetness of song do not go together. The torrid zone +endows the native birds with brilliant plumage, while the colder North +gives its feathered tribes the winning charm of melody. + +The soil of these Bahama Islands, composed of such unpromising +ingredients, shows in its prolific yield how much vegetation depends +for its sustenance upon atmospheric air, especially in tropical +climes. The landlord of the Victoria Hotel told us, as an evidence of +the fertility of the soil, that radish seeds which were planted on the +first day of the month would sufficiently mature and ripen by the +twenty-first--that is in three weeks--for use upon the table; and also +that potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons were relatively +expeditious in ripening here after planting. Our mind reverted to the +jugglers of Madras and Bombay, who made an orange-tree grow from the +seed, and bear fruit before our very eyes, at a single sitting. + +The luscious pineapple, zapota, mango, pomegranate, guava, star-apple, +citron, custard-apple, mammee, and other fruits abound. The +profuseness and variety of beautiful ferns and orchidaceous plants +will also be sure to attract the attention of the Northern visitor. +The rocky formation of the soil produces good natural roads, so that a +long drive in the environs of Nassau is like a pleasure excursion over +a well-macadamized thoroughfare. We were told of a delightful drive of +fifteen miles in length which follows the sea beach the whole +distance, but did not find time to test its attractions, though +strongly tempted by the excellence of the roads. Here, as in other +tropical regions, each month has its special floral display, although +there are many, and indeed a majority, of the plants which continue to +flower all the year round. We observed that the stone walls and +hedges were now and again covered for short spaces with the +coral-vine, whose red blossoms, so pleasing to the eye, emit no odor. +The yellow jasmine was dazzlingly conspicuous everywhere, and very +fragrant. Red and white roses, various species of cacti, and +tube-roses bloomed before the rude thatched cabins of the negroes in +the environs, as well as in the tiny front gardens of the whites in +the streets of the town; while red, white, and pink oleanders grew as +tall as trees, and flower here every month in the year. The +night-blooming cereus abounds, opening just at sunset, and closing +again at break of day. The outside leaves of this poetical flower are +of a pale green, the inner ones of a pure wax-like white, and the +petals light yellow. Complete, it is about eight inches long, and from +twelve to fifteen in circumference. + +While we drove through the suburbs, slatternly, half-clothed family +groups of negroes watched us with curious eyes, and on the road aged +colored men and women were occasionally met, who saluted us with grave +dignity. No one seemed to be at work; sunshine was the only +perceptible thing going on, ripening the fruits and vegetables by its +genial rays, while the negroes waited for the harvest. Like the birds, +they had no occasion to sow, but only to pluck and to eat. There was, +both in and out of the town, a tumble-down, mouldy aspect to the +dwellings, which seemed to be singularly neglected and permitted to +lapse into decay. With the exception of the town of Nassau, and its +immediate environs, New Providence is nearly all water and wilderness; +it has some circumscribed lakes, but no mountains, rivers, or +rivulets. The island is justly famous for the beauty and variety of +its lovely flowers. It is true that the rose is not quite equal in +color, development, and fragrance to ours of the North; Nature has so +many indigenous flowers on which to expend her liberality that she +bestows less attention upon this, the loveliest of them all. The +Cherokee rose, single-leafed, now so rare with us, seems here to have +found a congenial foreign home. In the suburbs of Nassau are many +attractive flowers, fostered only by the hand of Nature. Among them +was the triangular cactus, with its beautiful yellow blossom, like a +small sunflower, supported by a deep green triangular stem. + +The pendulous cactus was also hanging here and there on walls and tree +trunks, in queer little jointed, pipe-stem branches. The royal palm, +that king of tropical vegetation, is not very abundant here, but yet +sufficiently so to characterize the place. Its roots resemble those of +asparagus, and are innumerable. Another peculiarity of the palm is +that it starts a full-sized trunk; therefore, not the diameter, but +the height, determines its age, which is recorded by annual concentric +rings clearly defined upon its tall, straight stem. + +During the late civil war in the United States, when blockade runners +made this place a port of call and a harbor for refitting, it was by +English connivance practically a Confederate port. The officers and +sailors expended their ill-gotten wealth with the usual lavishness of +the irresponsible, the people of Nassau reaping thereby a fabulous +harvest in cash. This was quite demoralizing to honest industry, and, +as might be expected, a serious reaction has followed. Legitimate +trade and industry will require years before they can reassert +themselves. Sudden and seeming prosperity is almost sure to be equally +transitory. We were told that, during the entire period in which the +Confederates resorted here under the open encouragement and protection +of England, the town was the scene of the most shameful drunken orgies +from morning until night. Lewdness and crime were rampant. Officers +played pitch-penny on the veranda of the Victoria Hotel with gold +eagles, and affiliated openly with negresses. The evil influence upon +all concerned was inevitable, and its poisonous effect is not yet +obliterated. + +Three quarters of the present population are negroes, but of course +all trace of the aborigines has disappeared. It is curious and +interesting to know what Columbus thought of them. He wrote to his +royal mistress, after having explored these Bahamas, as follows: "This +country excels all others as far as the day surpasses the night in +splendor; the natives love their neighbors as themselves: their +conversation is the sweetest imaginable, and their faces are always +smiling. So gentle and so affectionate are they that I swear to your +highness there is no better people in the world." + +The negroes are mostly engaged in cultivating patches of pineapples, +and yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables; a large number of the +males employ themselves also in fishing and gathering sponges. It will +be remembered that from this locality comes the principal supply of +coarse sponge for Europe and America. There is also a considerable +trade, carried on in a small way, in fine turtle-shell, which is +polished in an exquisite manner, and manufactured by the natives into +ornaments. Though the Bahama sponges are not equal to those obtained +in the Mediterranean, still they are marketable, and Nassau exports +half a million dollars' worth annually. It is a curious fact that +sponges can be propagated by cuttings taken from living specimens, +which, when attached to a piece of board and sunk in the sea, will +increase and multiply. Thus the finest Mediterranean specimens may be +successfully transplanted to the coral reefs of these islands, the +only requisite to their sustenance seeming to be a coralline shore and +limestone surroundings. Another important industry which gives +employment to a considerable number of the inhabitants is the canning +of pineapples, a process which is equivalent to preserving them for +any length of time. One firm on Bay Street, as we were informed, +canned and exported nearly a million of pines in one season, lately; +and another, engaged in the fresh-fruit trade, shipped to the States +fifteen cargoes of pines in one year, besides many thousands of +cocoanuts. These are not all raised in Nassau, but this port is made +the headquarters for collecting and disposing of the fruit grown upon +what are termed the out-islands, as well as marketing the large +product of its own soil. It is but a short drive inland to the +extensive pineapple fields, where the handsome fruit may be seen in +the several stages of growth, varying according to the season of the +year. If intended for exportation, the fruit is gathered green; if for +canning purposes, the riper it is the better. The visitor will also be +impressed by the beauty and grace of the cocoanut trees, their pinnate +leaves often a hundred feet from the ground, notwithstanding the bare +cylindrical stem attains a thickness of only two feet. + +The Royal Victoria Hotel, though bearing a loyal name, is kept by an +American, and is a very substantial, capacious building, composed of +native limestone, four stories high, three of which are surrounded by +wide piazzas, which afford the shade so necessary in a land of +perpetual summer. The native stone of which the island is composed is +so soft when first quarried that it can easily be cut or sawed into +any shape desired, but it hardens very rapidly after exposure to the +atmosphere. The hotel will accommodate three hundred guests, and is a +positive necessity for the comfort and prosperity of the place. It was +built and is owned by the British government, who erected it some +twenty-five years since. At the time of our arrival there was gathered +under the lofty Moorish portico of the hotel a most picturesque group +of negroes, of both sexes and of all ages, their ebony faces forming a +strong contrast to the background of well-whitewashed walls. Some of +the women were dressed in neat calico gowns, and wore broad-brimmed +straw hats; some were in rags, hatless, shoeless, and barelegged; some +had high-colored kerchiefs wound turban-like about their woolly heads; +and some wore scarlet shawls, the sight of which would have driven a +Spanish bull raving mad. There were coquettish mulatto girls with +bouquets for sale, and fancy flowers wrought of shells; these last of +most exquisite workmanship. Specimens of this native shell-work were +sent to the Vienna Exposition, where they received honorable mention, +and were afterwards purchased and presented to the Prince of Wales. +Old gray-haired negroes, with snow-white beards on a black ground, +offered fruits in great variety,--zapotas, mangoes, pineapples, and +grape-fruit. Others had long strings of sponges for sale, wound +round their shoulders like huge snakes; some of these were good, but +many were utterly useless. No one knows this better than the cunning +negroes themselves, but strangers, only touching at Nassau, they do +not expect to see again, and there is proverbially cheating in all +trades but ours. A bright, thrifty-looking colored woman had spread +out her striped shawl upon the ground, and on this arrayed a really +fine collection of conch-shells for sale, delicately polished, and of +choice shapes. When first brought to the surface by the divers they +are not infrequently found to contain pearls imbedded in the palatable +and nutritious meat. These pearls are generally of a pinkish hue, and +greatly prized by the jewelers. Now and then a diver will realize a +hundred dollars for one of them. From the conch-shell also come the +best shell cameos. A smart half-breed offered canes of ebony, lignum +vitæ, lance, and orange wood, all of native growth. He was dressed in +a white linen jacket, pantaloons to match, with a semi-military cap, +cocked on one side of his head,--quite a colored dude. The women who +sell native-made baskets are most persistent, but if you purchase of +them make your own change, for they are apt to take money away for +this purpose and to forget to return. Negro nature is frail, +characterized at Nassau by theft and licentiousness, but great crimes +are rare. If you have occasion to hire a boat for a sail in the +harbor, be sure to find and employ "Bushy," a tall, intelligent +darkey, the best boatman and stroke-oar in Nassau. + +Bushy showed us what he called a fish-whip, made from the whipray, a +fish quite new to us, but indigenous to these waters. With a body +shaped like a flounder, it has a tail often ten feet long, tapering +from about one inch in thickness at the butt to an eighth of an inch +at the small end. When dried this resembles whalebone, and makes a +good coach-whip. There is a great variety of fish in and about the +Bahamas. We saw, just landed at Nassau, a jew-fish, which takes the +same place here that the halibut fills at the North, being cut into +steaks and fried in a similar manner. They are among the largest of +edible fish, and this specimen weighed about four hundred pounds. +According to Bushy, at certain seasons of the year the jew-fish lies +dormant upon the sandy bottom, and refuses to take the bait. In these +transparent waters he is easily seen when in this condition, and the +native fishermen then dive down and place a stout hook in his mouth! +Though this may sound like a "fish story," we were assured by others +of its truth. Bushy undertook to give us the names of the various +fishes which abound here, but the long list of them and his peculiar +pronunciation drove us nearly wild. Still a few are remembered; such +as the yellow-tailed snapper, striped snapper, pork-fish, angel-fish, +cat-fish, hound-fish, the grouper, sucking-fish, and so on. Both +harbor and deep sea fishing afford the visitor to Nassau excellent +amusement, and many sportsmen go thither annually from New York solely +for its enjoyment. + +The colored people of Nassau, as we were assured by one competent to +speak upon the subject, form a religious community, according to the +ordinary acceptation of the term. They are very fond of church-going, +and of singing and shouting on all religious occasions. Nervously +emotional, they work themselves up to a hysterical condition so +furious as to threaten their sanity, but having naturally so little of +that qualification, they are pretty safe. No people could possibly be +more superstitious. They shut up and double lock the doors and windows +of their cabins at night to keep out evil spirits. There are regular +professional man-witches among them, persons a little shrewder and +more cunning than their fellows. The very ignorant believe in a sort +of fetichism, so that when a boat starts on a sponge-fishing trip, the +obeah man is called upon for some coöperation and mysticism, to insure +a successful return of the crew. The sponge fishermen have several +hundred boats regularly licensed, and measuring on an average twenty +tons each. On favorable occasions these men lay aside their legitimate +calling, and become for the time being wreckers, an occupation which +verges only too closely upon piracy. The intricate navigation of these +waters, dotted by hundreds of small reefs and islands, and which can +be traversed by only three safe channels, has furnished in former +years a large amount of shipwrecked merchandise to Nassau. The +wrecking business at best is extremely demoralizing, unfitting any +community of men for legitimate industry, as we know very well by the +experience gained on our own Florida shore. Men who have cruised +fruitlessly for months in search of a profitable wreck will sometimes +be tempted to decoy a ship from her proper course, and lead her upon +the rocks, by a display of false lights. + +In front of the Victoria Hotel are some noble specimens of the ceiba, +or silk-cotton tree, as it is called here, the finest and loftiest we +have seen in any country. These trees, naturally slow growers, must +be over a century in age, and afford, by their widespread branches, a +shade equally graceful and grateful. Like the india-rubber trees of +Asia, these ceibas have at least one half of their anaconda-like roots +exposed upon the surface of the ground, dividing the lower portion of +the stem into supporting buttresses, a curious piece of finesse on the +part of nature to overcome the disadvantage of insufficient soil. The +tree bears annually a large seed-pod, packed with cotton of a soft, +silky texture, and hence its name. It is, however, suitable neither +for timber nor fuel, and the small product of cotton is seldom if ever +gathered. The islanders are proud of a single specimen of the banyan +tree of considerable size, which they show to all visitors; but it +cannot be indigenous--it must have been brought in its youth from +Asia. There is, however, in these West Indian isles, the black +mangrove, with very similar habit to the banyan. The limbs spread to +such an extent from the trunk as to require support to prevent them +from breaking off or bending to the ground by their own weight; but to +obviate this, nature has endowed the tree with a peculiar growth. When +the branches have become so heavy as to be no longer able to support +themselves, they send forth from the under side sprigs which, rapidly +descending to the ground, take root like the banyan, and become +supporting columns to the heavy branches above. So the writer has seen +in Hindostan a vine which grew, almost leafless, closely +entwined around the trees to the very top, whence it descended, took +fresh root, and ascended the nearest adjoining tree, until it had gone +on binding an entire grove in a ligneous rope. Long tendrils of the +love-vine, that curious aerial creeper, which feeds on air alone, +were seen hanging across some of the low branches of the Nassau trees, +and we were told that the plant will grow equally well if hung upon a +nail indoors. Emblematic of true affection, it clings, like Japanese +ivy, tenaciously to the object it fixes upon. One specimen was shown +to us which had developed to the size of the human hand from a single +leaf carelessly pinned by a guest to one of the chamber walls of the +hotel. + +There are said to be six hundred of the Bahama islands, large and +small, of which Nassau is the capital, and there, as already +intimated, the English Governor-General resides. This numerical +calculation is undoubtedly correct; many are mere rocky islets, and +not more than twenty have fixed inhabitants. Is there anything more +wonderful in nature than that these hundreds of isles should have been +built up from the bottom of the sea by insects so small as to be +microscopic? All lie north of Cuba and St. Domingo, just opposite the +Gulf of Mexico, easily accessible from our own shores by a short and +pleasant sea-voyage of three or four days. They are especially +inviting to those persons who have occasion to avoid the rigor of +Northern winters. People threatened with consumption seek Nassau on +sanitary principles, and yet it was found upon inquiry that many +natives die of that insidious disease, which rapidly runs its career +when it is first developed in a tropical climate. To the author it +would seem that consumptives might find resorts better adapted to the +recovery of their health. Intermittent fever, also, is not unknown at +Nassau. + +The sea gardens, as they are called, situated just off the shores of +the island, are well worth a visit; where, by means of a simple +instrument of wood and glass, one is enabled to look many fathoms +below the surface of the water, which is here so remarkable for its +transparency. These water glasses are all of home manufacture, easily +improvised, being formed of a small wooden box three or four inches +square, open at the top, and having a water-tight glass bottom. With +the glass portion slightly submerged, one is enabled to see distinctly +the beautiful coral reefs, with their marvelous surroundings. There +are displayed tiny caves and grottoes of white coral of great delicacy +and variety, star-fishes, sea-urchins, growing sponges, sea-fans, and +gaudy-colored tropical fishes, including the humming-bird-fish, and +others like butterflies with mottled fins and scales, and that little +oddity the rainbow-fish. The prevailing color of this attractive +creature is dark green, but the tinted margins of its scales so +reflect the light as to show all the colors of the rainbow, and hence +its name. When bottled in alcohol, these fairy-like denizens of the +deep lose their brilliancy, which they exhibit only in their native +element. This unique display is greatly enhanced in beauty by the +clearness of the Bahama waters, and the reflected light from the +snow-white sandy bottom, dotted here and there by curious and delicate +shells of opalescent lustre. One longs to descend among these coral +bowers,--these mermaid-gardens,--and pluck of the submarine flora in +its purple, yellow, and scarlet freshness. + +It will be remembered that Columbus wrote home to his royal patrons +that the fish which abounded in the seas partook of the same novelty +which characterized everything else in the New World. This was about +four hundred years ago, before the great Genoese had discovered Cuba. +"The fish," as he wrote, "rivaled the birds in tropical brilliancy of +color, the scales of some of them glancing back the rays of light like +precious stones, as they sported about the ships and flashed gleams of +gold and silver through the clear water." + +The surface life of these translucent waters is also extremely +interesting. Here the floating jelly-fish, called, from its +phosphorescence, the glow-worm of the sea, is observed in great +variety, sheltering little colonies of young fishes within its +tentacles, which rush forth for a moment to capture some passing mite, +and as quickly return again to their shelter. One takes up a handful +of the floating gulf-weed and finds, within the pale yellow leaves and +berries, tiny pipe-fish, sea-horses, and the little nest-building +antennarius, thus forming a buoyant home for parasites, crabs, and +mollusks, itself a sort of mistletoe of the ocean. The young of the +mackerel and the herring glance all about just beneath the surface +near the shore, like myriad pieces of silver. Now and again that +particolored formation of marine life, the Portuguese man-of-war, is +observed, its long ventral fins spread out like human fingers to +steady it upon the surface of the water. Verily, the German scientist +who says there is more of animal life beneath the surface of the sea +than above it cannot be far amiss. This seems to be the more +reasonable when we consider the relative proportions of land and +water. The whole surface of the globe is supposed to have an area of +about two hundred million square miles. Of these only about fifty +millions are dry land. Within the harbor of Nassau the divisions of +shoal and deep water presented most singular and clearly defined +lines of color, azure, purple, and orange-leaf green,--so marked as to +be visible half a mile away. All was beneath a sky so deeply and +serenely blue as constantly to recall the arching heavens of middle +India. + +The Bahama Banks is a familiar expression to most of us, but perhaps +few clearly understand the significance of the term, which is applied +to a remarkable plateau at the western extremity of the archipelago, +occupying a space between two and three hundred miles long, and about +one third as wide. These banks, as they are called, rise almost +perpendicularly from an unfathomable depth of water, and are of coral +formation. In sailing over them the bottom is distinctly seen from the +ship's deck, the depth of water being almost uniformly forty to fifty +feet. Some years since, when the author was crossing these banks in a +sailing ship, a death occurred among the foremast hands, and the usual +sea burial followed. The corpse was sewn up in a hammock, with iron +weights at the feet, the more readily to sink it. After reading the +burial service the body was launched into the sea from a grating +rigged out of a gangway amidship. The waters were perfectly calm, and +the barque had but little headway. Indeed, we lay almost as still as +though anchored, so that the body was seen to descend slowly alongside +until it reached the calcareous, sandy bottom, where it assumed an +upright and strangely lifelike position, as though standing upon its +feet. An ominous silence reigned among the watching crew, and it was a +decided relief to all hands when a northerly wind sprang up, filling +the canvas and giving the vessel steerage way. + +So many years have passed since the occurrence of the scene just +related that we may give its sequel without impropriety, though, at +the same time, we expose the venal character of Spanish officials. The +man we buried on the Bahama Banks had died of small-pox, though no +other person on board showed any symptoms of the disease. On entering +the harbor of Havana, three days later, we had been hailed from Moro +Castle and had returned the usual answer. A couple of doubloons in +gold made the boarding officer conveniently blind, and a similar fee +thrust quietly into the doctor's hand insured a "clean bill of +health," under which we were permitted to land! The alternative was +twenty-one days' quarantine. + +Fort Montague, mounting four rusty guns, "with ne'er a touch-hole to +any on 'em," as Bushy informed us, stands upon a projecting point +about a mile from the town of Nassau, the road thither forming a +delightful evening promenade, or drive. The fort is old, crumbling, +and time-worn, but was once occupied by the buccaneers as a most +important stronghold commanding the narrow channel. These sea-robbers +imposed a heavy tax upon all shipping passing this way, and for many +years realized a large income from this source. It was only piracy in +another form. Most vessels found it cheaper to pay than to fight. When +the notorious Black Beard had his headquarters at Nassau, he sought no +such pretext, but preyed upon all commerce alike, provided the vessels +were not too well armed to be captured. This notorious pirate had an +innate love for cruelty, and often tortured his captives without any +apparent purpose, after the fashion of our Western Indians. When the +English lashed the mutineers of Delhi and Cawnpore to the muzzles of +their cannon and blew them to pieces, they were enacting no new +tragedy; legend and history tell us that Black Beard, the pirate of +the Windward Passage, set them that example many years before. His +rule was to murder all prisoners who would not join his ship, and +those whom he took fighting, that is, with arms in their hands, were +subjected to torture, one form of which was that of lashing captives +to the cannon's mouth and applying the match. Fort Montague is not +occupied by even a corporal's guard to-day, and is of no efficiency +whatever against modern gunnery. The reader will thus observe that the +principal business which has engaged Nassau heretofore has been +wrecking, buccaneering, privateering, and blockade running. + +Some noted characters have found an asylum here, first and last. After +Lord Dunmore left Virginia he sought official position and made a home +on the island. He was appointed governor, and some of the buildings +erected by him are still pointed out to the visitor, especially that +known as the Old Fort, just back of the Victoria Hotel, crowning the +height. His summer seat, known as the Hermitage, is a quaint old +place, still in fair condition, and surrounded by oaks and cocoanut +trees, near the sea. Such matters do not often get into history, but +legend tells us that some strange orgies took place at the Hermitage, +where the play was for heavy stakes, and the drinking was of a similar +excessive character. + +Another well-known individual who sought to make a home here, and also +to escape from all former associations, was the notorious +Blennerhasset, a name familiar in connection with Aaron Burr. After +his trial, it will be remembered that he suddenly disappeared, and +was heard of no more. He left his country for his country's good, +changing his name to that of Carr. His objective point was Nassau; +there his undoubted talent and legal ability were duly recognized and +he was appointed government attorney, officiating in that capacity for +a number of years. Having deserted his first wife, he found another to +console him upon the island. At last wife number one appeared upon the +island. She had discovered his hiding-place, and a domestic war +ensued. Wife number two carried the day and the rightful spouse was +sent away and paid an annuity to keep away. The pretended Mr. Carr is +said to have finally lapsed into habits of excessive intemperance, and +to have found a stranger's grave on the island. + +Much of the drinking water, and certainly the best in use at Nassau, +as well as on some of the neighboring islands, is procured in a +remarkable, though very simple manner, from the sea. Not far from +shore, on the coral reefs, there are never-failing fresh water +springs, bubbling up from the bottom through the salt water with such +force as clearly to indicate their locality. Over these ocean springs +the people place sunken barrels filled with sand, one above another, +the bottoms and tops being displaced. The fresh water is thus +conducted to the surface through the column of sand, which forms a +perfect filterer. Such a crude arrangement is only temporary, liable +to be displaced by any severe storm which should agitate the +surrounding waters. If destroyed in the hurricane season, these +structures are not renewed until settled weather. In so small and low +lying an island as that of Nassau, it is very plain that this crystal +liquid, pure and tasteless, cannot come from any rainfall upon the +soil, and its existence, therefore, suggests a problem, the solving of +which we submit to the scientists. + +On the arid shores of the Persian Gulf, where rain so seldom falls, +and where there are no rills to refresh the parched soil, fresh water +is also obtained from submerged springs beneath the salt water. Here +it is brought to the surface by divers, who descend with a leather +bag, the mouth of which being opened over the bubbling spring is +quickly filled and closed again, being drawn to the surface by those +who are left there to assist the diver, who hastens upward for air. In +descending his feet are weighted with stones, which being cast off at +the proper moment, he naturally rises at once to the surface. This +operation is repeated until a sufficient quantity of fresh water is +procured. There is no mystery, however, as to the source of these +springs. The rain first falls on the distant mountains, and finding +its way downward through the fissures of rocky ledges, pursues its +course until it gushes forth in the bed of the gulf. + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. + + +After leaving Nassau we stood northward for half a day in order to get +a safe and proper channel out of the crooked Bahamas, where there is +more of shoal than of navigable waters, leaving a score of small +islands behind us inhabited only by turtles, flamingoes, and sea +birds. But we were soon steaming due south again towards our objective +point, the island of Cuba, five hundred miles away. San Salvador was +sighted on our starboard bow, the spot where Columbus first landed in +the New World, though even this fact has not escaped the specious +arguments of the iconoclasts. Nevertheless, we gazed upon it with +reverent credulity. It will be found laid down on most English maps as +Cat Island, and is now the home of two or three thousand colored +people. San Salvador is nearly as large as New Providence, and is said +to claim some special advantages over that island in the quality of +its fruits. It is claimed that the oranges grown here are the sweetest +and best in the world, the same excellence being attributed to its +abundant yield of pineapples and other tropical fruits. + +There are so many of these small islands in the Bahama group that the +geographers may be excused for the heterogeneous manner in which they +have placed them on the common maps. To find their true and relative +position one must consult the sailing-charts, where absolute +correctness is supposed to be found, a prime necessity in such +intricate navigation. The total population of the Bahamas has been +ascertained, by census, to be a fraction less than forty thousand. + +The voyager in these latitudes is constantly saluted by gentle breezes +impregnated with tropical fragrance, intensified in effect by the +distant view of cocoanut, palmetto, and banana trees, clothing the +islands and growing down to the water's very edge. As we glide along, +gazing shoreward, now and again little groups of swallows seem to be +flitting only a few feet above the water for a considerable distance, +and then suddenly disappearing beneath the waves. These are +flying-fish enjoying an air bath, either in frolic or in fear; +pursued, may be, by some aqueous enemy, to escape from whom they essay +these aerial flights. The numerous islands, very many of which are +uninhabited, have yet their recorded names, more or less +characteristic, such as Rum Key, Turk's Island,--famous for the export +of salt,--Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Great and Little Inagua, Crooked +Island, and so on, all more or less noted for the disastrous wrecks +which have occurred on their low coralline shores. Our Northern cities +are largely dependent upon the Bahamas for their early annual supplies +of pineapples, cocoanuts, oranges, bananas, and some vegetables, in +which they are all more or less prolific. Here also is the harvest +field of the conchologist, the beaches and coral reefs affording an +abundant supply of exquisitely colored shells, of all imaginable +shapes, including the large and valuable conch-shell, of which many +thousand dollars' worth are annually exported, the contents first +serving the divers for food. + +It was interesting to remain on deck at night and watch the heavens, +as we glided silently through the phosphorescent sea. Was it possible +the grand luminary, which rendered objects so plain that one could +almost read fine print with no other help, shone solely by borrowed +light? We all know it to be so, and also that Venus, Mars, Jupiter, +and Saturn shine in a similar manner with light reflected from the +sun. It was curious to adjust the telescope and bring the starry +system nearer to the vision. If we direct our gaze upon a planet we +find its disk sharply defined; change the direction and let it rest +upon a star, and we have only a point of light, more or less +brilliant. The glass reveals to us the fact that the star-dust which +we call the Milky Way is an aggregation of innumerable single suns. +Sweeping the arching blue with the telescope, we find some stars are +golden, some green, others purple, many silvery-white, and some are +twins. Probably there is no such thing as stars of the first and +second magnitude, as the common expression names them. It is most +likely only a question of distance, which regulates the brightness to +our vision. Science reduces the distances of heavenly bodies from our +earth to figures, but they are so immense as to be simply bewildering. +At the North the moon is silvery, but in tropical skies at night it +becomes golden, glowing, and luxurious in its splendor, never pale and +wan as it seems with us. + +When the lonely lighthouse which marks Cape Maysi, at the easterly +point of Cuba, hove in sight on the starboard bow, the dim form of the +mountains of Hayti was also visible on the opposite horizon. A +subterranean connection is believed to exist between the mountain +ranges of the two islands. + +When the outline of the Haytian mountains was in view, it was very +natural to express a wish to visit the island at some convenient time. +This led to some intelligent and interesting remarks from a compagnon +de voyage, who had resided for two years at Port-au-Prince, the +capital. "Unless you are compelled to land there," said he, "I advise +you to avoid Hayti." He fully confirmed the reports of its barbarous +condition, and declared it to be in a rapid decadence, as regarded +every desirable element of civilization. In the country, a short +distance from either Gonaives, Jacmel, or Port-au-Prince, where the +mass of the negro population live, Voudou worship and cannibalism are +quite common at the present time. The influence of the Voudou priests +is so much feared by the government that the horrible practice is +little interfered with. When the officials are forced to take +cognizance of the crime, the lightest possible punishment is imposed +upon the convicted parties. The island of San Domingo is about half +the size of Cuba, Hayti occupying one third of the western portion, +the rest of the territory belonging to the republic of San Domingo. +"As to Port-au-Prince," said our informant, "it is the dirtiest place +I have ever seen in any part of the world." Nevertheless, the historic +interest clustering about the island is very great. It was the seat of +the first Spanish colony founded in the New World. Its soil has been +bathed in the blood of Europeans as well as of its aboriginal +inhabitants. For three hundred years it was the arena of fierce +struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English, passing +alternately under the dominion of each of these powers, until finally, +torn by insurrection and civil war, in 1804 it achieved its +independence. The city of San Domingo, capital of the republic, is the +oldest existing settlement by white men in the New World, having been +founded in 1494 by Bartholomew Columbus. It contains to-day a little +less than seven thousand inhabitants. + +We gave Cape Maysi a wide berth, as a dangerous reef makes out from +the land, eastward, for a mile or more. The fixed light at this point +is a hundred and thirty feet above sea level, and is visible nearly +twenty miles off shore. + +We were running through the Windward Passage, as it was called by the +early navigators, and whence one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its +way northward. The Gulf Stream! Who can explain the mystery of its +motive power; what keeps its tepid waters in a course of thousands of +miles from mingling with the rest of the sea; whence does it come? The +accepted theories are familiar enough, but we do not believe them. +Maury says the Gulf of Mexico is its fountain, and its mouth is the +Arctic Sea. The maps make the eastern shore of Cuba terminate as +sharply as a needle's point, but it proved to be very blunt in +reality, as it forms the gateway to the Caribbean Sea, where the +irregular coast line runs due north and south for the distance of many +leagues. It is a low, rocky shore for the most part, but rises +gradually as it recedes inland, until it assumes the form of hills so +lofty as to merit the designation of mountains. + +There was on board of our ship an intelligent resident of Santiago, +who was enthusiastic in his description of the plains and valleys +lying beyond the hills which stood so prominently on the coast,--hills +probably older than any tongue in which we could describe them. The +Scriptural Garden of Eden has absolutely been placed here by +supposition on the part of traveled people. The temperature is simply +perfect, if we are to believe our informant; the vegetation is of a +primitive delicacy and beauty unequaled elsewhere; the fruits are +fabulously abundant and of the most perfect flavor; the water bubbles +forth from springs of crystal purity, and the flora is so lovely as to +inspire the most indifferent beholder with delight. "It is called the +Garden of Cuba," said the American Consul of Cienfuegos, "but many go +further, and declare it to be the location of the original Paradise." +Certain it is that the few Americans who have sought this so highly +praised region, though compelled to deny themselves the ordinary +comforts to be found in more accessible resorts, have admitted with +emphasis that nature, pure and undefiled, was here to be enjoyed in +unstinted measure. + +The hills bordering the shore and extending some distance inland +contain much undeveloped mineral wealth, such as iron, silver, and +gold. A mine of the former product is now being profitably worked by +an American company, and the ore regularly shipped to Pennsylvania for +smelting. This ore has special properties which render it more than +usually valuable, and it is even claimed to be the best iron mine in +the world. There is a strangely solitary and inhospitable appearance +about this portion of the island, devoid as it is of all human +habitations, and fringed either with long reaches of lonely +snow-white beach or rugged brown rocks. The volcanic appearance of the +land is significant of former upheavals, and this immediate region is +still occasionally troubled with geological chills and fever. + +The nights of early March in this latitude were exceedingly beautiful, +and solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. The full +moon looked down upon and was reflected by waters of perfect +smoothness. River navigation could not have been more quiet than were +these nights on the blue Caribbean Sea. The air was as mild as June in +New England, while at night the Southern Cross and the North Star +blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we steered westward after +doubling the cape, both of these heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, +the constellation on our port side, and the North Star on the +starboard. Each day, at the noon hour, the passengers were interested +in watching the officers of the ship while they were "taking the sun," +to determine the latitude and longitude. Shall we put the process into +simple form for the information of the uninitiated? When the sun +reaches the meridian, or culminating point of ascension, the exact +moment is indicated by the instrument known as a quadrant, adjusted to +the eye of the observer. The figures marked on the quadrant give the +latitude of the ship at the moment of meridian. The ship's time is +then made to correspond, that is to say, it must indicate 12 o'clock, +M., after which it is compared with the chronometer's Greenwich time, +and the difference enables the observer to determine the longitude. As +fifteen miles are allowed to the minute, there will be nine hundred +miles to the hour. The importance of absolute correctness in the +chronometer will at once be realized, since, were it only three +minutes out of the way, it would render the calculation as to +longitude wrong by nearly fifty miles, which might be, and doubtless +often has been, the cause of wrecking a ship upon rocks laid down upon +the charts, but supposed to be far away. With the chronometer and the +quadrant observation correctly ascertained, the sailing-master can +prick off his exact situation on the chart. So long as the weather +will permit a clear view of the sun at noon, the ship's precise +location on the wide waste of waters can be known; but when continuous +cloudy weather prevails, the ship's course is calculated by what is +called dead reckoning, depending upon the speed and distance run as +indicated by the log, which is cast hourly under such circumstances, +and becomes the main factor in calculating the position of the ship. +Of course the result cannot be very accurate, but is a dernier +ressort. When land is in sight no observation is necessary, as the +bearing of the ship is then unmistakably defined. + +The sea was like molten sapphire as we glided swiftly along the +southern coast of Cuba, watching the gracefully undulating shore. The +mountains rose higher and higher, until they culminated in the lofty +peak of Pico Turquino (blue mountain), over ten thousand feet high, as +lately ascertained by actual measurement. There are coves and bays +along this coast where oysters _do_ grow upon trees, ridiculous as the +assertion first strikes the ear. The mangrove-trees extend their roots +from the shore into the sea, to which the oysters affix themselves, +growing and thriving until plucked by the fishermen. They are small +and of an inferior species compared with those of our own coast, but +are freely eaten in the island. Near the shore hereabouts are many +islets containing from three to five square miles, some of which are +quite barren, while others are delicious gardens, full of tropical +fruit trees, flowers, and odoriferous plants, where Paul and Virginia +might have felt quite at home, wandering hand in hand. + +Soon after passing the remarkably sheltered port of Guantanamo, which +was for nearly a century the most notorious piratical rendezvous in +the West Indies, the famous castle of Santiago is seen. It is known as +Moro Castle, but it antedates the more familiar Moro of Havana by a +full century. This antique, yellow, Moorish-looking stronghold--which +modern gunnery would destroy in about eight minutes--is picturesque to +the last degree, with its crumbling, honeycombed battlements, and +queer little flanking turrets, grated windows, and shadowy towers. It +is built upon the face of a lofty dun-colored rock, upon whose +precipitous side the fortification is terraced. It stands just at the +entrance of the narrow channel leading to the city, so that in passing +in one can easily exchange oral greetings with the sentry on the outer +battlement. What strikingly artistic pictures the light and shade +together formed with those time-stained walls, as we steamed slowly by +them! On the ocean side, directly under the castle, the sea has worn a +gaping cave, so deep that it has not been explored within the memory +of the people living in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty entrance +is in form as perfect an arch as could be drawn by the pencil of a +skillful architect. As is usual with such formations all over the +world, there is a romantic legend concerning the cave related as +connected with the olden time, and there is also a prevailing +superstition, that no one attempting to explore it will live to +return. + +In passing up the channel two or three little forts of queer +construction are seen, supplementing the larger one, placed upon +jutting headlands. The Moro of Santiago is now used as a prison for +political offenders; its days of defensive importance ended with the +period of the buccaneers, against whose crude means of warfare it was +an ample protection. As we steamed past it that sunny afternoon, +stimulated by the novelty of everything about us, a crowd of pallid, +sorrowful faces appeared at the grated windows, watching us +listlessly. Two days later five of them, who were condemned patriots, +were led out upon those ramparts and shot, their bodies falling into +the sea, and eight were sent to the penal settlement of Ceuta. Spain +extends no mercy to those who dare to raise their hands or voices in +favor of freedom; her political existence is sustained only in an +atmosphere of oppression and cruelty. Every page of her history is a +tableau of bloodshed and torture. The narrow winding channel which +leads from the open sea to the harbor passes through low hills and +broad meadows covered with rank verdure, cocoanut groves, and little +fishing hamlets. Thrifty laurels, palms with their graceful plumes of +foliage, and intensely green bananas line the way, with here and there +upon the banks a pleasant country house in the midst of a pretty +garden of flowering shrubs. So close is the shore all the while that +one seems to be navigating upon the land, gliding among trees and over +greensward rather than on blue water. Presently we pass a sharp angle +of the hills into a broad, sheltered bay, and before us lies the +quaint, rambling old city of Santiago de Cuba, built upon a hillside, +like Tangier in Africa, and nearly as Oriental as that capital of +Morocco. The first most conspicuous objects to meet the eye are the +twin towers of the ancient cathedral which have withstood so many +earthquakes. The weather-beaten old quartermaster on our forecastle +applies the match to his brass twelve-pounder, awaking a whole +broadside of echoes among the mountains, the big chain rushes swiftly +through the hawse-hole, and the ship swings at her anchor in the +middle of the picturesque bay. + +A boat was promptly secured with which to land at this ancient city, +founded by Velasquez. From the moment one touches the shore a sense of +being in a foreign land forces itself upon the new-comer. The +half-unintelligible language, the people, the architecture, the +manners, the vegetation, even the very atmosphere and the intensity of +the sunshine, are novel and attractive. It is easy to convey our +partial impressions of a new place, however unique it may be, but not +our inward sensations. The former are tangible, as it were, and may be +depicted; the latter are like atmospheric air, which cannot be seen, +but is felt. The many-colored, one-story houses of Santiago are +Moorish in architecture, ranged in narrow streets, which cross each +other at right angles with considerable regularity, but with roadways +in an almost impassable condition, lined with sidewalks of ten or +fifteen inches in width. These thoroughfares were once paved with +cobblestones, but are now characterized by dirt and neglect, a stream +of offensive water constantly percolating through them, in which +little naked children are at play. No wonder that the city is +annually decimated by yellow fever; the surprise is that it does not +prevail there every month in the year. The boys and girls of the lower +classes, white and black, are not thought to require clothing until +they are about nine years of age. A few negresses were observed +sitting on the ground, at the corners of the streets, beside their +baskets containing sweet cakes, mouldy biscuits, bananas, and +grape-fruit, the uninviting appearance of which seemed to indicate +that they were in the last stage of collapse. Was it possible any one +could eat such stuff? As we passed and repassed these patient waiters, +certainly no purchasers appeared. How the forty-five thousand +inhabitants manage to achieve a living it would be difficult to +imagine, for the town seemed to be as dead and void of all activity as +Cordova, in far-off Spain, the sleepiest city in all Europe. Santiago +has not a single bookstore within its limits. No other place in +Christendom, with so numerous a population, could exist, outside of +Spain, without some literary resort. There are here three or four +spacious two-story club-houses, with some pretension to neatness and +social accommodations; but then no Cuban town of any size would be +complete without these anti-domestic institutions, where the male +population may congregate for evening entertainment. The interior +arrangements of these club-houses were entirely exposed to view, as we +passed by the iron-grated windows, devoid of curtains, blinds, or +screens of any sort, and extending from ceiling to floor. + +Santiago dates back to the year of our Lord 1514, making it the oldest +city in the New World, next to San Domingo, and it will be remembered +as the place whence Cortez sailed, in 1519, to invade Mexico. Here +also has been the seat of modern rebellion against the arbitrary and +bitterly oppressive rule of the home government. The city is situated +six hundred miles southeast of Havana, and, after Matanzas, comes next +to it in commercial importance, its exports reaching the handsome +annual aggregate of eight millions of dollars. It is the terminus of +two lines of railways, which pass through the sugar districts, and +afford transportation for this great staple. Three leagues inland, +among the mountains, are situated the famous Cobre copper mines, said +to be of superior richness, and whence, in the days of their active +working, four million dollars' worth of the ore has been exported in +one year. This was the amount shipped in 1841, and so late as 1867 six +thousand tons were exported in ten months. Not content with realizing +a very large income from the mines by way of taxes upon the product, +the Spanish government increased these excise charges to such an +extent as to absorb the entire profits of the works and kill the +enterprise, so that the rich ores of Cobre now rest undisturbed in the +earth. It seems there is an Indian village near the copper mines, +whose people are represented to be the only living descendants of the +aborigines,--the Caribs whom Columbus found here on first landing. +Careful inquiry, however, led us seriously to doubt the authenticity +of the story. Probably this people are peculiar in their language, and +isolation may have caused them to differ in some respects from the +inhabitants of the valley and plains, but four centuries must have +destroyed every trace of the early inhabitants of Cuba. Having been +from the very outset enslaved and brutally treated by the Spaniards, +it is believed that as early as the year of our Lord 1700 they had +utterly disappeared, and some historians say no trace even was to be +found of the native race one century after the settlement of the +island by Europeans. + +The head of the Church of Rome in Cuba is located here, it being an +archbishop's see; and the elaborate ceremonials which occasionally +take place attract people from the most distant cities of the island. +We chanced to be present when the bishop was passing into the +cathedral, clothed in full canonicals and accompanied by church +dignitaries bearing a canopy above his head. Observing our little +party as strangers, though in the midst of a stately ceremony, the +bishop graciously made us a sign of recognition. The cathedral of +Santiago is the largest in Cuba, but extremely simple in its interior +arrangements; and so, indeed, are all the churches on the island. As +to the exterior, the façade resembles the cathedral of Havana, being +of the same porous stone, which always presents a crumbled and mottled +surface. The inside decorations are childish and fanciful, consisting +mostly of artificial flowers of colored paper, crudely formed by +inexperienced hands into stars, wreaths, and crosses. One innovation +was noticed in this church: a saint on the right of the altar was +mounted upon a wooden horse, with spear in rest à la militaire, +forming a most incongruous figure. In the church of Matanzas, visited +a week or two later, the effigy of our Saviour was observed to be half +dressed in female attire, a glaring absurdity which the author has +once before seen in the Spanish convent-church of Burgos. In the +Matanzas church alluded to, boys and girls of nine and ten years were +seen at the confessional. Could absurdity be carried to a greater +height? These with negro women form nearly all the audiences to be met +with in the Cuban churches, unless upon festal occasions. The men +manifest their indifference by their absence, and white women are +scarcely represented. Besides the cathedral, Santiago has three or +four other old churches, small and dilapidated, within whose sombre +walls one seems to have stepped back into the fifteenth century. Upon +strolling accidentally into one of these we felt a chill suffuse the +whole system, like that realized on descending into a dark, undrained +cellar. + +The multiplicity and gaudiness of the drinking-saloons and bar-rooms +were particularly noticeable in passing along the principal streets, +and all were doing a thriving business, judging from appearances. The +Cubans drink lightly, but they drink often, and are especially +addicted to gin, which is dealt out to them at an extraordinarily low +price. It appears that people can consume a much larger quantity of +spirituous liquors here without becoming intoxicated than they can do +at the North. It is very rare to see a person overcome by this +indulgence in Cuba, and yet, as was afterwards observed in Cienfuegos, +Matanzas, and Havana, the common people begin the day with a very +liberal dram, and follow it up with frequent libations until +bed-time,--tippling at every convenient opportunity. A few of the +better class of private houses were constructed with courts in the +centre, where flowers and tropical fruits were growing luxuriantly. +These dwellings were confined to no special quarter of the town, but +were as often found next to a commercial warehouse or a negro shanty +as elsewhere. The dogs, horses, and Chinese coolies were all in +wretched condition. One might count the ribs of the first two a long +way off, while the latter were ragged, lame, half-starved, and many +of them blind. Animals are the recipients of the severest sort of +usage both in Cuba and Spain. Few vehicles were to be seen, as +merchandise is mostly transported on the backs of mules and ponies, +and these animals are seldom shod. + +The town is lighted with gas, or rather it was so illuminated a few +weeks since; but it was quietly whispered about that the corporation +had failed to pay for this service last year, and that the monopoly +itself was on the verge of bankruptcy, like nearly everything else of +a business character in Cuba. The gaslights certainly appeared pale +and sickly enough, as though only half confirmed in the purpose of +giving any light at all, and were prematurely extinguished in many of +the streets. In the shops, whose fronts were all open, like those of +Canton and Yokohama, the clerks were to be seen in their shirt +sleeves, guiltless of vests or collars, coquetting over calicoes and +gaudy-colored merinos with mulatto girls decked in cheap jewelry, and +with negresses wearing enormous hoop-earrings. At the approach of +evening the bar-rooms and saloons, with a liberal display of +looking-glasses, bottles of colored liquors, gin, and glitter, were +dazzling to behold. The marble tables were crowded with domino and +card players, each sipping at intervals his favorite tipple. The +sidewalks are so narrow that the pedestrian naturally seeks the middle +of the street as a pathway, and the half a dozen victorias and four +volantes which form the means of transportation in Santiago, and which +are constantly wandering about in search of a job, manage to meet or +to overtake one perpetually; causing first a right oblique, then a +left oblique, movement, with such regularity as to amount to an +endless zig-zag. We did not exactly appreciate the humor of this +annoyance, but perhaps the drivers did. After climbing and descending +these narrow, dirty streets by daylight and by gaslight, and watching +the local characteristics for a few hours, one is only too happy to +take a boat back to the ship, and leave all behind. + +A desire for a cold bath and a good swim is natural in this climate +after sunset, but beware of indulging this inclination in the waters +of Santiago. Under that smooth, inviting surface, glistening beneath +the rays of a full moon, lurk myriads of sharks. They are large, +hungry, man-eating creatures, the tigers of the ocean, and the dread +of all local boatmen here. To fall overboard in these waters, however +good a swimmer one may be, is simply to be devoured. At Singapore, +Sumatra, or Batavia, a Malay will for a consideration dive into the +waters of the Malacca Straits, armed with a long, sharp knife, boldly +attack a shark, and rip open his bowels at the moment when he turns on +his side to give the deadly bite. But on that coast this dreaded fish +appears singly; it is rare to see two of them together; while Santiago +harbor seems to swarm with them, the dark dorsal fin of the +threatening creatures just parting the surface of the sea, and +betraying their presence. Lying at anchor between our ship and the +shore was a trig Spanish corvette,--an American-built vessel, by the +way, though belonging to the navy of Spain. It was curious at times to +watch her crew being drilled in various martial manoeuvres. While an +officer was exercising the men at furling topsails, a few days before +our arrival, a foretopman fell from aloft into the sea. Under +ordinary circumstances and in most waters, the man could easily have +been saved, but not so in this instance. He did not even rise to the +surface. A struggle for portions of his body between half a dozen +ravenous sharks was observed alongside the corvette, and all was +quickly over. The foretopman had been torn limb from limb and +instantly devoured. + +The over-stimulated brain felt no inclination for sleep on this first +night in the harbor, the situation was so novel, and the night itself +one to suggest poetic thoughts. The moon was creeping slowly across +the blue vault, like a great phantom mingling with the lambent purity +of the stars. We sat silently watching the heavens, the water, and the +shore; saw the lights go out one after another among the clustering +dwellings, and the street gas-burners shut off here and there, until +by and by the drowsy town was wrapped in almost perfect darkness. Only +the ripple of the sea alongside the ship broke the silence, or the +sudden splash of some large fish, leaping out of and falling back into +the water. It seemed as though no sky was ever before of such +marvelous blue depth, no water so full of mystery, no shore so clad in +magic verdure, and no night ever of such resplendent clearness. The +landing-steps and grating had been rigged out from a broad porthole on +the spar deck, where a quartermaster was awaiting the return of the +purser and a party of gentlemen who were making late, or rather early, +hours on shore; for it was nearly two o'clock in the morning, and the +weary seaman, who had sat down at his post on the grating, was snoring +like a wheezy trombone. The measured tread fore and aft of the second +officer, who kept the anchor watch, was the only evidence of +wakefulness that disturbed our lonely mood. A similar night scene was +vividly called to mind as experienced in Typhoon Bay, below Hong Kong, +a few years since. + +In the harbor, next morning, a sunken wreck was pointed out to us, +which was partially visible at low tide, not far from the shore. Only +the ribs and stanchions are still held together by the stout keel +timbers and lower sheathing. This wreck has lain there unheeded for +years, yet what a story these old timbers might tell, had they only a +tongue with which to give voice to their experience!--literally the +experience of ages. We refer to the remains of the old St. Paul, one +of the ships of the great Spanish Armada that Philip II. sent to +England in 1588, being one of the very few of that famous flotilla +that escaped destruction at the time. What a historical memento is the +old wreck! After a checkered career, in which this ancient craft had +breasted the waves of innumerable seas and withstood the storms of +nearly three centuries, she was burned to the water's edge here in the +harbor of Santiago a few years since, and sunk, where her remains now +lie, covered with slime and barnacles,--a striking emblem of the +nation whose flag she once proudly bore. During the last years of her +career afloat she was used for transporting troops from Europe, and as +a Spanish guard-ship in these seas by the local government. It is +doubtful if it is generally known that this relic of the Spanish +Armada is in existence. Curio-hunters, once put upon the scent, will +probably soon reduce these ancient timbers to chips, and a crop of +canes and snuff-boxes, more or less hideous and more or less +counterfeit, will ensue. + +Here we got our first experience of the present currency,--the +valueless circulating medium of Cuba. When one has occasion to visit +the island it is best to take American funds, either in bank-bills or +gold, sufficient to meet all ordinary expenses. Our bank-bills and our +gold are both at a premium. This will also save all necessity for +drawing on home through any local bankers, who have a way of charging +for the accommodation quite after the style of everything Spanish. The +hotel-keepers will require their pay on the basis of Spanish gold, but +will cheerfully allow a premium of six per cent. on American gold or +American bank-bills. As to the banks in Cuba, all are shaky, so to +speak; several have lately failed, and the others might as well do so. +It is not long since the president of the Havana Savings Bank placed a +pistol at his temple and blew his brains out. Mercantile credit may be +said to be dead, and business nearly at a standstill. Commercial +honesty is hardly to be expected from a bankrupt community, where the +people seem only to be engaged in the sale and purchase of lottery +tickets, a habit participated in by all classes. + +What little gold and silver coin there is found in circulation is +mutilated; every piece of money, large and small, has been subjected +to the ingenious punch, and thus has lost a portion of its intrinsic +value. American gold and silver, not having been thus clipped, justly +commands a six per cent. premium. + +The circulating medium upon the island is paper scrip, precisely +similar to that used in this country before the resumption of specie +payment. This scrip is dirty beyond endurance, and one absolutely +hesitates to take it in making change. + +When our currency became soiled and torn we could exchange it for new, +but there is no such facility in Cuba. One dollar of our money will +purchase $2.45 of this scrip. It passes current, and really seems to +answer the necessities of trade, but even the Cubans are not deceived +by it. They know that it is really worthless, being based upon +nothing, and issued indiscriminately by a bankrupt government. The +paper-mill grinds it out in five, ten, twenty, and fifty cent pieces +as fast as it can be put into circulation, while no one knows how much +has been issued. But one thing is known; namely, that every authorized +issue of a given sum has been enormously exceeded in amount. + +Within about five years, or less, an issue of bank-bills and of this +small currency was entrusted to an establishment in the United States, +when fourteen millions of dollars were printed in _addition_ to the +amount authorized! All were duly receipted for and signed by corrupt +Spanish officials, who coolly divided these millions among themselves! +The Captain-General of Cuba during whose administration this financial +stroke was accomplished came to the island a poor man, and returned to +Spain in two years possessed of three million dollars! + +There is no more beautiful or safe harbor in the world than that of +Santiago de Cuba, commercially speaking, as it is completely +land-locked and protected on all sides from storms; but for the same +reason it is as close and hot an anchorage as can be found in the +tropics. An intelligent resident gave us 80° Fahrenheit as the average +temperature of the year, though the thermometer showed a more +ambitious figure during our brief stay. There are but two seasons, +the wet and the dry, the latter extending from September to May. The +city might have an excellent water supply if there were sufficient +enterprise among the citizens to cause it to be conducted by pipes +from the springs in the neighboring hills. It is now wretchedly +deficient in this respect, causing both suffering and ill health in a +climate especially demanding this prime necessity of life. + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. + + +To reach Cienfuegos, our next objective point, one takes water +conveyance, the common roads in this district being, if possible, a +degree worse than elsewhere. It is therefore necessary to double Cape +Cruz, and perform a coasting voyage along the southern shore of the +island of about four hundred miles. This is really delightful sailing +in any but the hurricane months; that is, between the middle of August +and the middle of October. It would seem that this should be quite a +commercial thoroughfare, but it is surprising how seldom a +sailing-vessel is seen on the voyage, and it is still more rare to +meet a steamship. Our passage along the coast was delightful: the +undulating hills, vales, and plains seemed to be quietly gliding past +us of their own volition; the tremor of the ship did not suggest +motion of the hull, but a sense of delight at the moving panorama so +clearly depicted. No extensive range of waters in either hemisphere is +so proverbially smooth as the Caribbean Sea, during eight months of +the year, but a stout hull and good seamanship are demanded during the +remaining four, especially if coming from the northward over the +Bahama Banks and through the Windward Passage, as described in these +chapters. + +The city of Trinidad, perched upon a hillside, is passed at the +distance of a few miles, being pleasantly situated more than a league +from the coast. The town of Casilda is its commercial port. This +arrangement was adopted in the early days as a partial protection +against the frequent inroads of the buccaneers, who ceased to be +formidable when separated from their ships. Trinidad was once the +centre of the prosperous coffee trade of Cuba, but is now, and has +been for many years, commercially wrecked. It is very beautifully +located, with Mount Vijia for its background, in what is declared to +be the healthiest district upon the island. But it is an ancient city, +comparatively deserted, its date being nearly contemporary with that +of Santiago. Cienfuegos, its successful business rival, is on the +contrary quite modern, exhibiting many features of thrift and +activity, and is counted the third commercial city of Cuba. Like +Cardenas, it is called an American capital. It has some twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, a large proportion of whom speak English, nine +tenths of its commerce being with the United States. In this immediate +neighborhood Columbus, on his second voyage, saw with astonishment the +mysterious king who spoke to his subjects only by signs, and that +group of men who wore long white tunics like the monks of mercy, while +the rest of the people were entirely naked. The town is low and level, +occupying a broad plane. The streets are of fair width, crossing each +other at right angles, and are kept neat and clean. The harbor is an +excellent and spacious one, admitting of vessels being moored at the +wharves, a commercial convenience unknown at Santiago, Matanzas, or +Havana. The navies of all the world might rendezvous here and not +crowd each other. Three rivers, the Canudo, Saludo, and Danuyi, empty +into the bay, and each is navigable for a considerable distance +inland, a matter of great importance in a country so devoid of good +roads. The parti-colored houses are of the usual Cuban type, mostly of +one story, built with a patio or open courtyard in the centre, well +filled with flowering plants, among which were observed the attractive +coral-tree, which resembles a baby palm, and the universal banana. + +The Plaza of Cienfuegos forms a large, well-arranged square, where an +out-door military concert is given twice a week, a universal practice +in all Cuban cities. It is laid out with excellent taste, its broad +paths nicely paved, and the whole lighted at night with numerous +ornamental gas-lamps. The vegetation is both attractive and +characteristic, consisting of palms, laurels, and flowering shrubs, +mingled with which are some exotics from the North, which droop with a +homesick aspect. Plants, like human beings, will pine for their native +atmosphere. If it be more rigorous and less genial at the North, still +there is a bracing, tonic effect, imparting life and strength, which +is wanting in the low latitudes. On one side of this fine square is +the government house and barracks, opposite to which is an open-air +theatre, and in front is the cathedral with any number of discordant +bells. The little English sparrow seems to be ubiquitous, and as +pugnacious here as on Boston Common, or the Central Park of New York. +Boyish games are very similar the world over: young Cuba was playing +marbles after the orthodox fashion, knuckle-down. It was very pitiful +to behold the army of beggars in so small a city, but begging is +synonymous with the Spanish name, both in her European and colonial +possessions. Here the maimed, halt, and blind meet one at every turn. +Saturday is the harvest day for beggars in the Cuban cities, on which +occasion they go about by scores from door to door, carrying a large +canvas bag. Each family and shop is supplied with a quantity of small +rolls of bread, specially baked for the purpose, and one of which is +nearly always given to the applicant on that day, so the mendicant's +bag becomes full of rolls. These, mixed with vegetables, bits of fish, +and sometimes meat and bones when they can be procured, are boiled +into a soup, thus keeping soul and body together in the poor creatures +during the week. + +Cienfuegos is situated in the midst of a sugar-producing district, +where soil and climate are both favorable, and over twenty large +plantations are to be seen within a radius of two or three leagues. +The export from them, as we were informed by the courteous editor of +"La Opinion," a local paper, aggregates thirty thousand hogsheads +annually. The visitor should not fail to make an excursion to some +representative plantation, where it is impossible not to be much +interested and practically informed. One of these sugar estates, +situated less than two leagues from the town, was found to be +furnished with a complete outfit of the most modern machinery, which +had cost the proprietor a quarter of a million dollars. It was working +with the usual favorable results, though at the present price of sugar +no profit can accrue to the planter. The plantation presented a busy +scene. During the grinding season the machinery is run night and day, +but is obliged to lie idle for eight months out of the year. + +In the uncultivated fields through which we passed when driving out to +the sugar estate, the prickly pear grew close to the ground in great +luxuriance, as it is seen on our Western prairies. Its thick leaves, +so green as to be dense with color, impart the effect of greensward at +a short distance. On close inspection it was seen to be the star +cactus, which like the Northern thistle kills all other vegetation +within its reach. Here and there the wild ipecacuanha with its bright +red blossom was observed, but the fields, except those devoted to the +cane, were very barren near Cienfuegos. + +Sugar-cane is cultivated like Indian corn, which it also resembles in +appearance. It is first planted in rows, not in hills, and must be +hoed and weeded until it gets high enough to shade its roots. Then it +may be left to itself until it reaches maturity. This refers to the +first laying out of a plantation, which will afterwards continue +fruitful for years by very simple processes of renewal. When +thoroughly ripe the cane is of a light golden yellow, streaked here +and there with red. The top is dark green, with long narrow leaves +depending,--very much like those of the corn stalk,--from the centre +of which shoots upwards a silvery stem a couple of feet in height, and +from its tip grows a white fringed plume, of a delicate lilac hue. The +effect of a large field at its maturity, lying under a torrid sun and +gently yielding to the breeze, is very fine, a picture to live in the +memory ever after. In the competition between the products of +beet-root sugar and that from sugar-cane, the former controls the +market, because it can be produced at a cheaper rate, besides which +its production is stimulated by nearly all of the European states +through the means of liberal subsidies both to the farmer and to the +manufacturer. Beet sugar, however, does not possess so high a +percentage of true saccharine matter as does the product of the cane, +the latter seeming to be nature's most direct mode of supplying us +with the article. The Cuban planters have one advantage over all other +sugar-cane producing countries, in the great and inexhaustible +fertility of the soil of the island. For instance: one to two +hogsheads of sugar to the acre is considered a good yield in Jamaica, +but in Cuba three hogsheads is the average. Fertilizing of any sort is +rarely employed in the cane-fields, while in beet farming it is the +principal agent of success. + +Though the modern machinery, as lately adopted on the plantations, is +very expensive, still the result achieved by it is so much superior to +that of the old methods of manufacture that the small planters are +being driven from the market. Slave labor cannot compete with +machinery. The low price of sugar renders economy imperative in all +branches of the business, in order to leave a margin for profit. A +planter informed the author that he should spread all of his molasses +upon the cane-fields this year as a fertilizer, rather than send it to +a distant market and receive only what it cost. He further said that +thousands of acres of sugar-cane would be allowed to rot in the fields +this season, as it would cost more to cut, grind, pack, and send it to +market than could be realized for the manufactured article. Had the +price of sugar remained this year at a figure which would afford the +planters a fair profit, it might have been the means of tiding over +the chasm of bankruptcy which has long stared them in the face, and +upon the brink of which they now stand. But with a more than average +crop, both as to quantity and quality, whether to gather it or not is +a problem. Under these circumstances it is difficult to say what is to +become, financially, of the people of Cuba. Sugar is their great +staple, but all business has been equally depressed upon the island, +under the bane of civil wars, extortionate taxation, and oppressive +rule. + +If you visit Cienfuegos you will take rooms at the Hotel Union, as +being the least objectionable of the two public houses which the city +contains, and there you will make the acquaintance of Jane, who is an +institution in herself. Indeed, she will doubtless board your ship +when it first arrives, so as to enlighten you concerning the +excellences of the Union over its rival establishment, which will also +be sure to be represented. Jane is interpreter and general factotum of +that delectable posada, the Union, and being the only one in the house +who speaks either French or English, she becomes an important factor +in your calculations. Jane's nationality is a pleasing mystery, but +she may be classed as a Portuguese quadroon. Venus did not preside at +her birth, but, by means of the puff-ball and egg-shell powder, she +strives to harmonize her mottled features. Being interpreter, +waitress, hotel-runner, and chambermaid, she is no idler, and fully +earns the quarter eagle you naturally hand her at leave-taking. In +visiting the neighboring sugar plantation Jane acts as your guide, on +which occasion her independence will be sure to challenge admiration. +She salutes slave or master with equal familiarity, conducts you +through each process of the elaborate works, from the engine to the +crushing mill, and so on, until you reach the centrifugal machine, +where the glistening crystals of pure sugar fall into an open +receptacle ready for packing and shipment. She takes you into the +slave-quarters among the pickaninnies, hens, pigs, and pigeons, +looking on blandly and chewing huge pieces of cane while you +distribute the bright ten cent pieces with which you filled your +pocket at starting. If Jane slyly pinches a papoose and causes it to +yell, it is only for fun; she means no harm, though the dusky mite +gets smartly slapped by its mother for misbehaving. The cabin floor of +bare earth is sure to be covered with these little naked, sprawling +objects, like ants. On the way back to town Jane orders the postilion +to drive into the private grounds of a palatial Cuban residence, where +she boldly announces herself and party to the proprietor in good +rolling Spanish. It is the home of Señor N----, a wealthy merchant of +the city. We are received as though we belonged to the royal family. +The hospitable owner speaks English fluently, and answers our thousand +and one questions with tireless courtesy, takes us into his superb +fruit garden (of which more anon), then introduces us to his domestic +quarters, where everything appears refined, faultlessly neat, and +tasteful. If you go to the railroad station, as usual the evening +before departure, in order to secure tickets and get your baggage +labeled,--for the cars start in the morning before daylight,--Jane +will accompany you, riding by your side in the victoria. Excuse her if +she orders the calash thrown back, as she appears bonnetless in a +loud, theatrical costume, trimmed with red and yellow, and carrying a +bouquet in her freckled hands. It is her opportunity, and she looks +triumphantly at the street loungers in passing. If you are charged on +your bill a Delmonico price for a mythical lunch to be taken with you +on the journey to Matanzas, and which Jane has forgotten to put up, +pay without wrangling; it saves time and temper. + +The tropical garden which we visited just outside of Cienfuegos +embraced a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty +exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending to +the ground with the weight of its ripening fruit; the alligator pear +was marvelously beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and +color, the passion-flower; the soft delicate foliage of the tamarind +was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, +the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree) +being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time +by a single, pendent, glutinous bud nearly as large as a pineapple. +The date-palm, so suggestive of the far East, and the only one we had +seen in Cuba, was represented by a choice specimen, imported in its +youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform +and graceful shape, full of the green fruit, with here and there a +ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rusty-coated +fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad-spreading trees +depended the grape-fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as +gold, while the orange, lime, and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green +and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every turn, and filled the +garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with its tall, straight +stem and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. Guava, fig, +custard-apple, and bread-fruit trees, all were in bearing. Our +hospitable host plucked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his +chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or +elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, +of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had +turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Gan Eden. Through this +orchard of Hesperides we were accompanied also by the proprietor's two +lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise +in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory +with photographic fidelity. + +Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once +more to examine his beautiful specimens of the banana, which, with its +sister fruit the plantain, forms so important a staple of food in Cuba +and throughout all tropical regions. It seems that the female banana +tree bears more fruit than the male, but not so large. The average +clusters of the former comprise here about one hundred, but the latter +rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct specimens of the +cucumber-shaped product. From the centre of its large broad leaves, +which gather at the top, when it has reached the height of twelve or +fifteen feet there springs forth a large purple bud ten inches long, +shaped like a huge acorn, though more pointed. This cone hangs +suspended from a strong stem, upon which a leaf unfolds, displaying a +cluster of young fruit. As soon as these are large enough to support +the heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf +drops off, and another unfolds, exposing its little brood of fruit; +and so the process goes on until six or eight rings of young bananas +are started, forming, as we have said, bunches numbering from seventy +to a hundred. The banana is a herbaceous plant, and after fruiting its +top dies; but it annually sprouts up again fresh from the roots. From +the unripe fruit, dried in the sun, a palatable and nutritious flour +is made. + +No matter where one may be, in town or country, in the east or west +end of the island, Santiago or Havana, the lottery-ticket vender is +there. Men, women, and children are employed to peddle the tickets, +cripples especially being pressed into the service in the hope of +exciting the sympathies of strangers and thus creating purchasers. It +may be said to be about the only prosperous business at present going +on in this thoroughly demoralized island. Half the people seem to +think of nothing else, and talk of dreaming that such and such +combinations of numbers will bring good luck. Some will buy only even +numbers, others believe that the odd ones stand the best chance of +winning; in short, all the gambling fancies are brought to bear upon +these lotteries. Enough small prizes are doled out to the purchasers +of tickets, by the cunning management, to keep hope and expectation +ever alive in their hearts, and to coax out of them their last dollar +in further investments. "If," said a native resident of Matanzas to +us, "these lotteries, all of which are presided over by the officials, +are honestly conducted, they are the one honest thing in which this +government is concerned. Venal in everything else, why should they be +conscientious in this gambling game?" No one believes in the integrity +of the government, but, strange to say, the masses have implicit faith +in the lotteries. + +At one corner of our hotel in Cienfuegos, there sat upon the sidewalk +of the street a blind beggar, a Chinese coolie, whose miserable, +poverty-stricken appearance elicited a daily trifle from the habitués +of the house. Early one morning we discovered this representative of +want and misery purchasing a lottery ticket. They are so divided and +subdivided, it appears, as to come even within the means of the street +beggars! Speaking of blindness, the multiplicity of people thus +afflicted, especially among negroes and coolies, led to the +enumeration of those met with in a single day; the result was +seventeen. On inquiry it was found that inflammation of the eyes is as +common here as in Egypt, and that it runs a rapid and fatal +course,--fatal to the sight after having once attacked a victim, +unless it receives prompt, judicious, and scientific treatment. + +The Chinese coolies, who are encountered in all parts of the island, +but more especially in the cities, are almost invariably decrepit, +poverty-stricken mendicants, and very frequently blind. They are such +as have been through their eight years' contract, and have been +brought to their present condition by ill-treatment, insufficient +food, and the troubles incident to the climate. In the majority of +cases these coolies have been cheated out of the trifling amount of +wages promised to them, for there is no law in Cuba to which they can +appeal. There are laws which will afford the negro justice if resorted +to under certain circumstances, but none for the coolies. There are +some few Chinamen who have survived every exigency, and are now +engaged in keeping small stores or fruit stands, cigar making, and +other light employments, their only hope being to gain money enough +to carry them back to their native land, and to have a few dollars +left to support them after getting there. There are no Chinese +laundries in Cuba; John cannot compete with the black women in this +occupation, for they are natural washers and ironers. John is only a +skillful imitator. He proves most successful in the cigarette and +cigar factories, where his deft fingers can turn out a more uniform +and handsome article than the Cubans themselves. Machinery is fast +doing away with hand-made cigarettes. At the famous establishment of +La Honradez, in Havana, which we visited some weeks later, one machine +was seen in operation which produced ten thousand complete cigarettes +each hour, or a million per day! Still this same establishment +employed some fifty Chinese in order to supply its trade with the +hand-made article, for home consumption. The Cubans prefer to unroll +and readjust a cigarette before lighting it. This cannot be done with +the machine-made article, which completes its product by a pasting +process. The three machines (an American patent) at the Honradez +factory turn out three millions of cigarettes per day, and this is in +addition to those which are hand-made by the Chinese. + +The landlord of the Hotel Union, at Cienfuegos, will give you plenty +of fruit and cheap Cataline wine, but the meat which is served is poor +and consists mostly of birds. Any other which may be set before you +will hardly be found to be a success, but then one does not crave much +substantial food in this climate. There is a small wild pigeon which +forms a considerable source of food in Cuba, and which breeds several +times in a year. They are snared and shot in large numbers for the +table, but do not show any signs of being exterminated. Ducks and +water-fowl generally abound, and are depended upon to eke out the +short supply of what we term butcher's meat. Three quarters of the +people never partake of other meat than pigeons, poultry, and wild +ducks. Eggs are little used as food, being reserved for hatching +purposes. All families in the country and many in the cities make a +business of raising poultry, but the product is a bird of small +dimensions, not half the size of our common domestic fowls. They are +very cheap, but they are also very poor. The practice is to keep them +alive until they are required for the table, so that they are killed, +picked, and eaten, all in the same hour, and are in consequence very +tough. As the climate permits of hens hatching every month in the +year, the young are constantly coming forward, and one mother annually +produces several broods; chickens, like tropical fruits, are +perennial. + +Sunday is no more a day of rest in Cienfuegos than it is in other +Roman Catholic countries; indeed, it seemed to be distinguished only +by an increase of revelry, the activity of the billiard saloons, the +noisy persistency of the lottery-ticket venders, the boisterousness of +masquerade processions, and a general public rollicking. The city is +not large enough to support a bull-ring, but cock-pits are to be found +all over the island, and the Sabbath is the chosen day for their +exhibitions. It must be a very small and very poor country town in +Cuba which has not its cock-pit. The inveterate gambling propensities +of the people find vent also at dominoes, cards, checkers, and chess +in the bar-rooms, every marble table being in requisition for the +purpose of the games on Sundays. Having noticed the sparse attendance +at the cathedral, we remarked to Jane that the church was quite +empty, whereupon she replied with a significant leer, "True, Señor, +but the jail is full." More than once an underlying vein of sarcasm +was observed in the very pertinent remarks of which Jane was so +happily delivered. + +There are comparatively few slaves to be found on the plantations or +elsewhere in the vicinity of Cienfuegos: in fact, slavery is rapidly +disappearing from the island. "Slave labor is more costly than any +other, all things considered," said a sugar planter to us. "I do not +own one to-day, but I have owned and worked six hundred at a time," he +added. "We pay no tax on the laborers we hire, but on slaves we pay a +heavy head-tax annually." An edict has been promulgated by the home +government, which went into force last year, and which frees one slave +in every four annually, so that on January 1, 1888, all will have +become free. In the mean time the commercial value of slaves has so +decreased in view of their near emancipation that they are not +appraised on an average at over fifty or sixty dollars each. The law +has for a period of many years provided that any slave who pays to his +master his appraised value shall at once receive his free papers. Many +purchase their liberty under this law, and then hire themselves to the +same master or to some other, as they may choose,--at low wages, to be +sure, but including food and shelter. Slaves have always been entitled +by law in Cuba to hold individual property independent of their +masters, and there are few smart ones who have not accumulated more or +less pecuniary means during their servitude. They have had no expenses +to meet in the way of supporting themselves. That has devolved upon +their owners, so that whatever money they have realized by the several +ways open to them has been clear profit. Many slaves have anticipated +the period of their legal release from servitude, and more will do so +during the present year. We also heard of planters who, realizing the +inevitable, have manumitted the few slaves whom they still held in +bondage, and hiring them at merely nominal wages, believed they saved +money by the operation. + +It will be seen, therefore, that slavery as an institution here is +virtually at an end. Low wages will prevail, and this is necessary to +enable the planters to compete with the beet sugar producers of +Europe. In truth, it is a question how long they will be able to do so +at any rate of wages. The modern machinery being so generally adopted +by the sugar-cane planters, while remarkably successful, both, as to +the quality and the quantity of the juice it expresses from the cane, +not only is expensive in first cost, but it requires more intelligent +laborers than were found serviceable with the old process. To supply +the places of the constantly diminishing slaves, emigrants, as they +were called, have heretofore been introduced from the Canary Islands; +men willing to contract for a brief period of years, say eight or ten, +as laborers, and at moderate wages. These people have proved to be +good plantation hands, though not so well able to bear the great heat +of the sun as were the negroes; otherwise they were superior to them, +and better in all respects than the Chinese coolies, who as workers on +the plantations have proved to be utter failures. The mortality among +these Mongolians, as we learned from good authority, had reached as +high as sixty-seven per cent, within eight years of their date of +landing in Cuba, that being also the period of their term of contract. +None have been introduced into the island for several years. This +coolie importation, like the slave-trade with Africa, was a fraud and +an outrage upon humanity, and never paid any one, even in a mercenary +point of view, except the shipowners who brought the deceived natives +from the coast of China. Slavery in Cuba and slavery in our country +were always quite a different thing, and strange to say the laws of +the Spanish government were far more favorable and humane towards the +victims of enforced labor than were those established in our Southern +States. When the American negro ceased to be a slave, he ceased to +cultivate the soil for his master only to cultivate it for himself. +Not so in the tropics. The Cuban negro, in the first place, is of a +far less intelligent type than the colored people in the States; +secondly, the abundance of natural food productions in the low +latitudes, such as fruit, fish, and vegetables, requires of the negro +only to pluck and to eat; clothing and shelter are scarcely needed, +and virtually cost nothing where one may sleep in the open air without +danger every night in the year; and finally, the negro of the tropics +will not work unless he is compelled to. + +There is a certain class of the Spanish slaveholders who have always +fought against negro emancipation in any form,--fought against +manifest destiny as well as against sound principles, fought indeed +against their own clear interest, so wedded were they to the vile +institution of slavery. Yet to every thinking man on the island, it is +clearly apparent that human slavery in Cuba, as everywhere else, has +proved to be a disturber of the public peace, and has retarded more +than anything, else the material and moral progress of the entire +people. It is but a short time since that the editor of a Havana +newspaper, the "Revista Economica," was imprisoned in Moro Castle, and +without even the pretense of a trial afterwards banished from the +island, because he dared to point out the fact in print that the +freeing of the slaves would prove a mutual benefit to man and master, +besides being a grand act of humanity. Two years since the slaves on a +large plantation near Guines refused to work on a holiday which had +always heretofore been granted to them; whereupon the soldiery were +called in to suppress what was called a mutiny of the blacks, +resulting in nine negroes being shot dead, and many others put in +chains to be scourged at leisure. Doomed as we have shown slavery to +be, still it dies hard in Cuba. + +In the vicinity of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Trinidad, in the mountain +regions of the eastern district, there are many lawless +people,--banditti, in fact, who make war for plunder both upon native +and foreign travelers, even resorting in some cases to holding +prisoners for ransoms. Several aggravating instances of the latter +character came to our knowledge while we were on the spot. Since these +notes were commenced five of these robbers have been captured, +including the leader of the band to which they belonged, a notorious +outlaw named Clemente Martinez. They were taken by means of a +stratagem, whereby they were decoyed into an ambush, surrounded, and +captured red-handed, as they fought furiously, knowing that they had +no mercy to expect at the hands of the soldiers. It was the civil +guard at Rancho Veloz who made this successful raid into the hills, +and every one of the prisoners was summarily shot. Such, off-hand +punishment is dangerous, but in this instance it was no more prompt +than just. It is necessary, therefore, to carry arms for self-defense +upon the roads in some parts of the island, and even the countrymen +wear swords when bringing produce to market. Residents having occasion +to go any distance inland take a well-armed guard with them, to +prevent being molested by the desperate refugees who lurk in the hill +country. Undoubtedly many of these lawless bands are composed of +former revolutionists, who are driven to extremes by want of food and +the necessities of life. + +Our journey was continued from Cienfuegos to Havana, by way of +Matanzas, crossing the island nearly at right angles. The traveler +plunges at once by this route into the midst of luxuriant tropical +nature, where the vegetation is seen to special advantage, +characterized by a great variety of cacti and parasitic growth, +flowering trees and ever graceful palms, besides occasional ceibas of +immense size. Though the landscape, somehow, was sad and melancholy, +it gave rise to bright and interesting thoughts in the observer: +doubtless the landscape, like humanity, has its moods. Vegetation, +unlike mankind, seems here never to grow old, never to falter; crop +succeeds crop, harvest follows harvest; nature is inexhaustible,--it +is an endless cycle of abundance. Miles upon miles of the bright, +golden-green sugar-cane lie in all directions, among which, here and +there, is seen the little cluster of low buildings constituting the +negroes' quarters attached to each plantation, and near by is the tall +white chimney of the sugar-mill, emitting its thick volume of +wreathing smoke, like the funnel of a steamboat. A little on one side +stands the planter's house, low and white, surrounded by beautiful +shade trees and clustering groups of flowers. Scores of dusky Africans +give life to the scene, and the sturdy overseer, mounted on his little +Cuban pony, dashes back and forth to keep all hands advantageously at +work. One large gang is busy cutting the tall cane with sharp, +sword-like knives; some are loading the stalks upon ox-carts; some are +driving loads to the mill; some feeding the cane between the great +steel crushers, beneath which pours forth a ceaseless jelly-like +stream, to be conducted by iron pipes to the boilers; men, women, and +children are spreading the crushed refuse to dry in the sun, after +which it will be used for fuel. Coopers are heading up hogsheads full +of the manufactured article, and others are rolling up empty ones to +be filled. + +Some years ago, when the author first visited Cuba, the overseer was +never seen without his long, cutting whip, as well as his sword and +pistols. The latter he wears to-day, but the whip is unseen. The fact +is, the labor on the plantations is now so nearly free labor that +there is little if any downright cruelty exercised as of yore. Or, +rather, we will qualify the remark by saying that there has been a +vast improvement in this respect on the side of humanity. The shadow +of the picture lies in the past. One could not but recall in +imagination the horrors which so long characterized these plantations. +The bloodthirsty spirit of the Spanish slaveholders had free scope +here for centuries, during which time the invaders sacrificed the +entire aboriginal race; and since then millions of Africans have been +slowly murdered by overwork, insufficient food, and the lash, simply +to fill the pockets of their rapacious masters with gold. Few native +Cubans are sugar-planters. These estates are almost universally owned +and carried on by Spaniards from the European peninsula, or other +foreigners, including Englishmen and Americans. + +Occasionally, in the trip across the island, we passed through a crude +but picturesque little hamlet having the unmistakable stamp of +antiquity, with low straggling houses built of rude frames, covered at +side and roof with palm bark and leaves; chimneys there were +none,--none even in the cities,--charcoal only being used for cooking +purposes, and which is performed in the open air. About the door of +the long, rambling posada, a dozen or more horses were seen tied to a +long bar, erected for the purpose, but no wheeled vehicles were there. +The roads are only fit for equestrians, and hardly passable even for +them. At rare intervals one gets a glimpse of the volante, now so +generally discarded in the cities, and which suggested Dr. Holmes's +old chaise, prepared to tumble to pieces in all parts at the same +time. The people, the cabins, and the horses, are all stained with the +red dust of the soil, recalling the Western Indians in their war +paint. This pigment, or colored dirt, penetrates and adheres to +everything, filling the cars and decorating the passengers with a +dingy brick color. It was difficult to realize that these +comparatively indifferent places through which we glided so swiftly +were of importance and the permanent abode of any one. When the cars +stop at the small way-stations, they are instantly invaded by +lottery-ticket sellers, boys with tempting fruit, green cocoanuts, +ripe oranges, and bananas,--all cheap for cash. And here too is the +guava seller, with neatly sealed cans of the favorite preserve. +Indeed, it seems to rain guava jelly in Cuba. Others offer country +cheese, soft and white, with rolls, while in a shanty beside the road +hot coffee and "blue ruin" are dealt out to thirsty souls by a +ponderous mulatto woman. There are always a plenty of the denizens of +the place, in slovenly dresses and slouched hats, hands in pockets, +and puffing cigarettes, who do the heavy standing-round business. +Stray dogs hang about the car-wheels and track to pick up the crumbs +which passengers throw away from their lunch-baskets. Just over the +wild-pineapple hedge close at hand, half a score of naked negro +children hover round the door of a low cabin; the mother, fat and +shining in her one garment, gazes with arms akimbo at the scene of +which she forms a typical part. The engineer imbibes a penny drink of +thin Cataline wine and hastens back to his machine, which has been +taking water from an elevated cistern beside the track, the bell +rings, the whistle sounds, and we are off to repeat the process and +the picture, six or eight leagues further on. Take our advice and +don't attempt to make a meal at one of these stations. The viands are +wretchedly poor, and the price charged is a swindle. + +As we approach Matanzas the scene undergoes a radical change. +Comfortable habitations are multiplied, passable roads appear winding +gracefully about the country, groves and gardens spring into view, +with small and thrifty farms. Superb specimens of the royal palm begin +to appear in abundance, always suggestive of the Corinthian column. +Scattered over the hills and valleys a few fine cattle are seen +cropping the rank verdure. There is no greensward in the tropics, and +hay is never made. The scenery reminds one of Syria and the Nile. + +One sees some vegetable and fruit farms, but sugar raising absorbs +nearly every other interest, the tobacco leaf coming next, now that +coffee is so neglected. The farmer ploughs with the crooked branch of +a tree, having one handle with which to guide the crude machine,--just +such an instrument as is used for the purpose in Egypt to-day, and has +been used there for thousands of years. The cattle are mostly poor, +half-starved creatures,--starved amid a vegetation only too rank and +luxuriant. The dairy receives no attention in Cuba. Butter is seldom +made; the canned article from this country, thin and offensive, is +made to answer the purpose. The climate is too hot to keep butter or +cream without ice, and that is expensive. Human beings, men, women, +and children, look stunted and thin, possessing, however, wonderfully +fine eyes, large, lustrous, and ebony in hue; eyes that alone make +beauty; but the physiognomists have long since learned that eyes of +themselves are no indication of character or moral force. + +The thermometer had stood since early morning at 83°, during the long +ride from Cienfuegos. It was hot and dusty. Notwithstanding the +ceaseless novelty of the scene, one became a little fatigued, a little +weary; but as we approached Matanzas, the refreshing air from off the +Gulf of Mexico suddenly came to our relief, full of a bracing tonic, +and rendering all things tolerable. The sight of the broad harbor, +lying with its flickering surface under the afternoon sun, was +beautiful to behold. + +After all, these tropical regions lack the delicious freshness of the +greensward, of new foliage, and the fine fragrance of the rural North; +they need the invigorating sleep of the seasons from which to awake +refreshed and blooming. Where vegetation is growing and decaying at +the same time, there can never be general freshness and greenness; +eternal summer lacks interest; we crave the frost as well as the +sunshine. Compensation follows fast upon the heels of even a Northern +winter. The tropical loveliness of the vegetation in this attractive +land indicates what Cuba should be, but is not. + +Having accompanied the reader across many degrees of latitude, +effecting a landing and reaching the interior of Cuba, let us now pass +to other considerations of this interesting and important island. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. + + +The island of Cuba was discovered by the great Genoese pilot, on the +28th day of October, 1492. The continent of America was not discovered +until six years later,--in 1498. The name of Columbus flashes a bright +ray over the mental darkness of the period in which he lived, for the +world was then but just awakening from the dull sleep of the Middle +Ages. The discovery of printing heralded the new birth of the republic +of letters, and maritime enterprise received a vigorous impulse. The +shores of the Mediterranean, thoroughly explored and developed, had +endowed the Italian States with extraordinary wealth, and built up a +very respectable mercantile marine. The Portuguese mariners were +venturing farther and farther from the peninsula, and traded with many +distant ports on the extended coast of Africa. + +To the west lay what men supposed to be an illimitable ocean, full of +mystery, peril, and death. A vague conception that islands hitherto +unknown might be met afar off on that strange wilderness of waters was +entertained by some minds, but no one thought of venturing in search +of them. Columbus alone, regarded merely as a brave and intelligent +seaman and pilot, conceived the idea that the earth was spherical, and +that the East Indies, the great El Dorado of the century, might be +reached by circumnavigating the globe. If we picture to ourselves the +mental condition of the age and the state of science, we shall find no +difficulty in conceiving the scorn and incredulity with which the +theory of Columbus was received. We shall not wonder that he was +regarded as a madman or as a fool; we are not surprised to remember +that he encountered repulse upon repulse as he journeyed wearily from +court to court, and pleaded in vain to the sovereigns of Europe for +aid to prosecute his great design. The marvel is that when door after +door was closed against him, when all ears were deaf to his earnest +importunities, when day by day the opposition to his views increased, +when, weary and footsore, he was forced to beg a bit of bread and a +cup of water for his fainting and famishing boy at the door of a +Spanish convent, his reason did not give way, and his great heart did +not break with disappointment. + +But he felt himself to be the instrument of a higher power, and his +soul was then as firm and steadfast as when, launched in his frail +caravél upon the ocean, he pursued day after day and night after +night, amidst a murmuring, discontented, and even mutinous crew, his +westward path across the trackless waters. No doubt he believed +himself to be inspired, or at least specially prompted from above. +This was shown by his tenacious observance of all ceremonies of the +Church, in his unaffected piety, and in that lofty and solemn +enthusiasm which was a characteristic of his whole life. This must +have been the secret in no small degree of the power he exerted so +successfully over his semi-barbarous followers, who were more affected +by awe than by fear. It was the devout and lofty aspect of their +commander which controlled his sailors under circumstances so trying. +We can conceive of his previous sorrows, but what imagination can form +an adequate conception of his hopefulness and gratitude when the +tokens of the neighborhood of land first greeted his senses? What +rapture must have been his when the keel of his barque first grounded +on the shore of San Salvador, and he planted the royal standard in the +soil, as the Viceroy and High-Admiral of Spain in the New World! No +matter what chanced thereafter, a king's favor or a king's +displeasure, royal largesses or royal chains, that moment of noble +exultation was worth a lifetime of trials. + +Columbus first named Cuba "Juana," in honor of Prince John, son of +Ferdinand and Isabella. Subsequently the king named it Fernandina. +This was changed to Santiago, and finally to Ave Maria; but the +aboriginal designation has never been lost, Cuba being its Indian and +only recognized name. The new-comers found the land inhabited by a +most peculiar race, hospitable, inoffensive, timid, fond of the dance +and the rude music of their own people, yet naturally indolent, from +the character of the climate they inhabited. They had some definite +idea of God and heaven, and were governed by patriarchs or kings, +whose word was their only law, and whose age gave them undisputed +precedence. They spoke the dialect of the Lucayos, or Bahamas, from +which islands it is presumed by historians they originated; but it +would seem more reasonable to suppose that both the people of the +Bahamas and of the West India isles came originally from the mainland; +that is, either north or south of the Isthmus of Panama. In numbers +they were vaguely estimated at a million, a calculation the +correctness of which we cannot but doubt. Reliable local authority, +Cubans who have made a study of the early history of the island, +assured the author that the aborigines at the time of Velasquez's +first settlement, say in 1512, could not have exceeded four hundred +thousand. They had but few weapons of offense or defense, and knew not +the use of the bow and arrow. Being a peaceful race and having no wild +animals to contend with, their ingenuity had never been taxed to +invent weapons of warfare against man or beast. The natives were at +once subjected by the new-comers, who reduced them gradually to an +actual state of slavery, and proving hard task-masters, the poor +overworked creatures died by hundreds, until they had nearly +disappeared. The home government then granted permission to import +negroes from the coast of Africa to labor upon the soil and to seek +for gold, which was known to exist in the river courses. Thus +commenced the foreign slave-trade of the West Indies, King Ferdinand +himself sending fifty slaves from Seville to labor in the mines, and +from that time this plague spot upon humanity has festered on the +island. It should be remembered in this connection that previous to +the discoveries of Columbus, negro slavery had been reduced to a +system by the Moors, and thus existed in Spain before the days of the +great Genoese. + +The Spaniards were not content with putting the aborigines to labor +far beyond their power of endurance on the soil where they were born, +but shipped them by hundreds to Spain to be sold in the slave-market +of Seville, the proceeds being turned into the royal treasury. +Columbus himself was the promoter of this outrageous return for the +hospitality he had received at the hands of the natives. Irving +apologetically says he was induced to this course in order to +indemnify the sovereigns of Castile and Leon for the large expense his +expedition had been to them. The fact that the great navigator +originated the slave-trade in the New World cannot be ignored, though +it detracts in no small degree from the glory of his career. + +Although the conquerors have left us but few details respecting these +aborigines, still we know with certainty from the narrative of +Columbus, and those of some of his most intelligent followers, that +they were docile, artless, generous, but inclined to ease; that they +were well-formed, grave, and far from possessing the vivacity of the +natives of the south of Europe. They expressed themselves with a +certain modesty and respect, and were hospitable to the last degree. +Reading between the lines of the records of history, it is manifest +that after their own rules and estimates, their lives were chaste and +proper, though it was admissible for kings to have several wives. +Moreover, though living in a state of nudity, they religiously +observed the decencies of life, and were more outraged by Spanish +lasciviousness than can be clearly expressed. This debasing trait, +together with the greed for gold exhibited by the new-comers, +disabused the minds of the natives as to the celestial origin of their +visitors, a belief which they at first entertained, and which the +Spaniards for mercenary purposes strove to impress upon them. The +labor of this people was limited to the light work necessary to +provide for the prime wants of life, beyond which they knew nothing, +while the bounteous climate of the tropics spared the necessity of +clothing. They preferred hunting and fishing to agriculture; beans and +maize, with the fruits that nature gave them in abundance, rendered +their diet at once simple, nutritious, and entirely adequate to all +their wants. They possessed no quadrupeds of any description, except a +race of voiceless dogs, as they were designated by the early +writers,--why we know not, since they bear no resemblance to the +canine species, but are not very unlike a large rat. This animal is +trapped and eaten by the people on the island to this day, having much +of the flavor and nature of the rabbit. + +The native Cubans were of tawny complexion and beardless, resembling +in many respects the aborigines of North America, and as Columbus +described them in his first communication to his royal patrons, were +"loving, tractable, and peaceable; though entirely naked, their +manners were decorous and praiseworthy." The wonderful fecundity of +the soil, its range of noble mountains, its widespread and +well-watered plains, with its extended coast line and excellent +harbors, all challenged the admiration of the discoverers, so that +Columbus recorded in his journal these words: "It is the most +beautiful island that eyes ever beheld,--full of excellent ports and +profound rivers." And again he says; "It excels all other countries, +as far as the day surpasses the night in brightness and splendor." The +spot where the Spaniards first landed is supposed to be on the east +coast, just west of Nuevitas. "As he approached the island," says +Irving, "he was struck with its magnitude and the grandeur of its +features: its airy mountains, which reminded him of Sicily; its +fertile valleys and long sweeping plains, watered by noble rivers; its +stately forests; its bold promontories and stretching headlands, which +melted away into remotest distance." + +Excursions inland corroborated the favorable impression made by the +country bordering upon the coast. The abundance of yams, Indian corn, +and various fruits, together with the plentifulness of wild cotton, +impressed the explorers most favorably. Their avarice and greed were +also stimulated by the belief that gold was to be found in large +quantities, having received enough to convince them of its actual +presence in the soil, but in the supposition that the precious metal +was to be found in what is termed paying quantities they were +mistaken. + +The Spaniards were not a little surprised to see the natives using +rude pipes, in which they smoked a certain dried leaf with apparent +gratification. Tobacco was indigenous, and in the use of this now +universal narcotic, these simple savages indulged in at least one +luxury. The flora was strongly individualized. The frangipanni, tall +and almost leafless, with thick fleshy shoots, decked with a small +white blossom, was very fragrant and abundant; here also was the wild +passion-flower, in which the Spaniards thought they beheld the emblems +of our Saviour's passion. The golden-hued peta was found beside the +myriad-flowering oleander, while the undergrowth was braided with +cacti and aloes. The poisonous manchineel was observed, a drop of +whose milky juice will burn the flesh like vitriol. Here the invaders +also observed and noted the night-blooming cereus. They were delighted +by fruits of which they knew not the names, such as the custard-apple, +mango, zapota, banana, and others, growing in such rank luxuriance as +to seem miraculous. We can well conceive of the pleasure and surprise +of these adventurous strangers, when first partaking of these new and +delicate products. This was four hundred years ago, and to-day the +same flora and the same luscious food grow there in similar abundance. +Nature in this land of ceaseless summer puts forth strange eagerness, +ever running to fruits, flowers, and fragrance, as if they were +outlets for her exuberant fecundity. + +The inoffensive, unsuspicious natives shared freely everything they +possessed with the invaders. Hospitality was with them an instinct, +fostered by nature all about them; besides which it was a considerable +time before they ceased to believe their guests superior beings +descended from the clouds in their winged vessels. The Indians lived +in villages of two or three hundred houses, built of wood and +palm-leaf, each dwelling containing several families, the whole of one +lineage, and all were governed by caciques or kings, the spirit of the +government being patriarchal. + +We are told by Las Casas, who accompanied Velasquez in all his +expeditions, that "their dances were graceful and their singing +melodious, while with primeval innocence they thought no harm of being +clad only with nature's covering." The description of the gorgeous +hospitality extended to these treacherous invaders is absolutely +touching in the light of our subsequent knowledge. They reared no +sacred temples, nor did they seem to worship idols, and yet some few +antiquities have been preserved which would seem to indicate that the +natives possessed grotesque images, half human and half animal, like +Chinese gods in effect. These were wrought so rudely out of stone as +hardly to convey any fixed idea; vague and imperfect, it is not safe +to define them as idolatrous images. They might have been left here by +a previous race, for, as we are all aware, respectable authorities +hold that this part of the world was originally peopled by +Carthaginians, Israelites, Egyptians, Hindoos, and Africans. Columbus, +in his second voyage to the West Indies, found the stern-post of a +vessel lying on the shore of one of the Leeward isles, which was +strongly presumptive evidence that a European ship had been in these +waters before him. The fact that at this writing, as already +described, there lies in the harbor of Santiago the wreck of the old +St. Paul, which must be over three centuries old, shows how long a +piece of marine architecture may last, submerged in salt water. + +An idol similar to those referred to was dug up in Hayti, and is now +believed to be in the British Museum, drawings of which the author has +seen, and which resemble original religious emblems examined by him in +the caves of Elephanta, at Bombay. This emblem, carved by a people +unacquainted with the use of edge tools, is believed by antiquarians +to afford a degree of light as to the history of worship of the +ancient inhabitants of Hispaniola, and also to form a collateral +support of the conjecture that they sprang from the parent stock of +Asia. According to Las Casas, the native Cubans had a vague tradition +of the formation of the earth, and of all created things; of the +deluge, of the ark, the raven, and the dove. They knew the tradition +of Noah also, according to the same high authority, but for our own +part we do not believe that the aborigines had any knowledge of this +Biblical story. Their priests were fanatics and kept the people in +fear by gross and extravagant means; but as to any formulated system +of religious worship, it may be doubted if the aborigines of Cuba +recognized any at the time of its discovery by Columbus. Unbroken +peace reigned among them, and they turned their hands against no other +people. + +These aborigines exhibited many of the traits universally evinced by +savage races, such as painting their bodies with red earth and +adorning their heads with the feathers of brilliant birds. Much of the +soil is red, almost equal to a pigment, for which purpose it was +employed by the natives. They lived mostly in the open air, weaving +themselves hammocks in which they slept, suspended among the trees. +The cotton which they spun grew wild, but tobacco they planted and +cultivated after a rude fashion. The iguana and the voiceless dog, +already spoken of, were hunted and eaten, the former of the lizard +family, the latter scarcely more than fifteen inches long. They had +domestic birds which they fattened and ate. Their only arms were +lances tipped with sea-shells, and a sort of wooden sword, both of +which were more for display than for use. Fish they caught in nets and +also with hooks made of bones. Their boats, or canoes, were formed of +the dug-out trunks of trees, and some of these canoes, as Columbus +tells us, were sufficiently large to accommodate fifty men. An ancient +writer upon this subject says the oars were well formed and properly +fitted, but were used only with the power of the arms, that is as +paddles, no rowlocks being cut in the boat. The speed attained by +them was remarkable, reaching four leagues an hour when an effort to +that end was made by the occupants. A large canoe, made from the +straight trunk of a mahogany tree, is described as having been five +feet in width and seventy-five feet long. This craft was propelled by +twenty-five oarsmen on each side, a steersman in the stern, and a +lookout at the prow. This was a cacique's barge, in which he made +visits of state along shore and up the rivers. + +History has preserved a remarkable and characteristic speech made by a +venerable cacique, who approached Columbus with great reverence on the +occasion of his second visit to Cuba, and who, after presenting him +with a basket of ripe fruit, said: "Whether you are divinities or +mortal men, we know not. You have come into these countries with a +force, against which, were we inclined to resist, it would be folly. +We are all therefore at your mercy; but if you are men, subject to +mortality like ourselves, you cannot be unapprised that after this +life there is another, wherein a very different portion is allotted to +good and bad men. If therefore you expect to die, and believe, with +us, that every one is to be rewarded in a future state according to +his conduct in the present, you will do no hurt to those who do none +to you." This was duly interpreted to Columbus by a native whom he had +taken to Spain, and who had there acquired the Spanish language. His +name was Didacus, and the date of the speech was July 7, 1492. The +truth of this version is attested by Herrera and others. + +The reception which Bartholomew Columbus, who was appointed Deputy +Governor in the absence of the Admiral, afterwards met with in his +progress through the island to collect tribute from the several +caciques manifested not only kindness and submission, but also +munificence. Having heard of the eagerness of the strangers for gold, +such of them as possessed any brought it forth and freely bestowed it +upon the Spaniards. Those who had not gold brought abundance of +cotton. One cacique in the interior, named Behechio, invited the +Deputy Governor to a state entertainment, on which occasion he was +received with great ceremony. As he approached the king's dwelling, +the royal wives, thirty in number, carrying branches of palm in their +hands, came forth to greet the guest with song and dance. These +matrons were succeeded by a train of virgins. The first wore aprons of +cotton, the last were arrayed only in the innocence of nature, their +hair flowing long and freely about their shoulders and necks. Their +limbs were finely proportioned, and their complexions, though brown, +were smooth, shining, and lovely. The Spaniards were struck with +admiration, believing that they beheld the dryads of the woods and the +nymphs of the ancient fables. The branches which they bore were +delivered to the strangers with low obeisance, indicating entire +submission. When the Spaniards entered the rural palace, amid songs +and the rude music of the people, they found there a plentiful and, +according to the Indian mode of living, a sumptuous banquet prepared +for them. + +After the repast the guests were each conducted to separate lodgings, +and each provided with a cotton hammock. On the next day feasting and +games were resumed; dancing and singing closed each evening for four +consecutive days, and when the Deputy Governor and his people +departed, they were laden with gifts by their generous entertainers, +who also accompanied them far on their way. This episode will perhaps +serve better to give us a just insight into the condition and +character of the aborigines of Cuba at that early period than any +amount of detailed description possibly could. + +These aborigines, according to Las Casas, had no tradition even, +touching their own origin, and when asked about it only shook their +heads and pointed to the sky. Antiquarians have endeavored to draw +some reliable or at least reasonable deductions from the collection of +bones and skeletons found in the mountain caves of the island, but no +conclusion worthy of record has ever been arrived at. Still, upon +these evidences some scientists pin their faith that Cuba was a +portion of the primitive world. Speaking of these caves, there are +many subterranean openings on the island, down which rivers of +considerable size abruptly disappear, not again to be met with, though +it is reasonably presumed that they find their way through the rocks +and soil to the sea-coast. + +During the ten years subsequent to its discovery, Columbus visited and +partially explored the island at four different times, the last being +in 1502, four years previous to his death, which took place at +Valladolid in 1506. It seems singular to us that his investigations +left him still ignorant of the fact that Cuba was an island, and not a +part of a new continent. This conviction remained with him during his +lifetime. It was not until 1511 that the Spaniards commenced to +colonize the island, when Diego Columbus, then Governor of San +Domingo, sent an expedition of three hundred men for the purpose, +under the command of Diego Velasquez, whose landing was disputed by +the natives. A period of ten years had served to open their eyes to +Spanish lust and lore of gold, and from having at first regarded them +as superior beings, entitled to their obedience, they were finally +thus driven to fight them in self-defense. But what could naked +savages, armed only with clubs and spears, accomplish against +Europeans, trained soldiers, furnished with firearms, protected by +plate armor, and accompanied by bloodhounds,--men who had learned the +art of war by fighting successfully with the valiant Moors? The +natives were at once overpowered and hundreds were slaughtered. From +that time forth they became the slaves of their conquerors; a fact +which reconciles us in some degree in the light of poetical justice to +the fact that Amerigo Vespucci, who followed in the footsteps of +others, yet took the honors of discovery so far as to give his name to +the largest quarter of the globe. + +Diego Velasquez, the earliest Governor of the island, appears to have +been an energetic and efficient magistrate, and to have administered +affairs with vigor and intelligence. He did not live, however, in a +period when justice ever erred on the side of mercy, and his harsh and +cruel treatment of the aborigines will always remain a stain upon his +memory. The native population soon dwindled away under the sway of the +Spaniards, who imposed tasks upon them far beyond their physical +powers of endurance. The victims of this hardship had no one to +befriend them at that time, and no one has done them justice in +history. The few glimpses of their character which have come down to +us are of a nature greatly to interest us in this now extinct race. +Their one fault was in trusting the invaders at all. At the outset +they could have swept them from the face of the earth, but, once +permitted to establish themselves, they soon became too powerful to be +driven out of the land. A native chief, whose only crime was that of +taking up arms in defense of the integrity of his little territory, +fell into the hands of Velasquez, and was cruelly burned at the stake, +near what is now the town of Yara, as a punishment for his patriotism. +The words of this unfortunate but brave chief (Hatuey), extorted by +the torments which he suffered, were: "I prefer hell to heaven, if +there are Spaniards in heaven!" + +In point of energetic action and material progress, Velasquez reminds +us of a later Governor-General, the famous Tacon. In a single decade, +Velasquez founded the seven cities of Baracoa, Santiago de Cuba, +Trinidad, Bayamo, Puerto del Principe, St. Spiritus, and, on the south +coast near Batabano, Havana, since removed to its present site. He +caused the mines to be opened and rendered them profitable, introduced +valuable breeds of cattle, instituted agricultural enterprise, and +opened a large trade with San Domingo, Jamaica, and the Spanish +peninsula. Population increased rapidly, thousands of persons +emigrating annually from Europe, tempted by the inviting stories of +the returned explorers. Emigration schemes were approved and fostered +by the home government, and thus a large community was rapidly divided +among the several cities upon the island. Still this new province was +considered mainly in the light of a military depot by the Spanish +throne, in its famous operations at that period in Mexico. The fact +that it was destined to prove the richest jewel in the Castilian +crown, and a mine of wealth to the Spanish treasury, was not dreamed +of at that date in its history. Even the enthusiastic followers of +Cortez, who sought that fabulous El Dorado in the New World, had no +promise for this gem of the Caribbean Sea; but, in spite of every side +issue and all contending interests, the island continued to grow in +numbers and importance, while its native resources were far beyond the +appreciation of the home government. + +Thus Cuba became the headquarters of the Spanish power in the West, +forming the point of departure for those military expeditions which, +though circumscribed in numbers, were yet so formidable in the energy +of the leaders, and in the arms, discipline, courage, fanaticism, and +avarice of their followers, that they were amply adequate to carry out +the vast scheme of conquest for which they were designed. It was hence +that Cortez embarked for the conquest of Mexico; a gigantic +undertaking, a slight glance at which will recall to the mind of the +reader the period of history to which we would direct his attention. + +Landing upon the continent (1518) with a little band scarcely more +than half the complement of a modern regiment, Cortez prepared to +traverse an unknown country, thronged by savage tribes with whose +character, habits, and means of defense he was wholly unacquainted. +This romantic adventure, worthy of the palmiest days of chivalry, was +finally crowned with success, though checkered with various fortunes, +and stained with bloody episodes that prove how the threads of courage +and ferocity are inseparably blended in the woof and warp of Spanish +character. It must be remembered, however, that the spirit of the age +was harsh, relentless, and intolerant, and that if the Aztecs, +idolaters and sacrificers of human victims, found no mercy at the +hands of the fierce Catholics whom Cortez commanded, neither did the +Indians of our own section of the continent fare much better at the +hands of men professing to be disciples of a purer faith, and coming +to these shores, not as warriors, but themselves persecuted fugitives. + +The Spanish generals who invaded Mexico encountered a people who had +attained a far higher point of civilization than their red brethren of +the outlying Caribbean Islands, or those of the northeastern portion +of the continent. Vast pyramids, imposing sculptures, curious arms, +fanciful garments, various kinds of manufactures, the relics of which +strongly interest the student of the past, filled the invaders with +surprise. There was much that was curious and startling in their +mythology, and the capital of the Mexican empire presented a strange +and fascinating spectacle to the eyes of Cortez. The rocky +amphitheatre in the midst of which it was built still remains +unchanged, but the great lake which surrounded it, traversed by +causeways and covered with floating gardens laden with flowers, is +gone. + +The star of the Aztec dynasty set in blood. In vain did the +inhabitants of the conquered city, roused to madness by the cruelty +and extortion of the victors, expel them from their midst. Cortez +refused to flee farther than the shore; the light of his burning +galleys rekindled the desperate valor of his followers, and Mexico +fell, as a few years after did Peru under the perfidy and sword of +Pizarro, thus completing the scheme of conquest, and giving Spain a +colonial empire far more splendid than that of any other power in +Christendom. + +Of the agents in this vast scheme of territorial aggrandizement, we +see Cortez dying in obscurity and Pizarro assassinated in his palace, +while retributive justice has overtaken the monarchy at whose behest +the richest portions of the Western Continent were violently wrested +from their native possessors. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. + + +Baracoa lies one hundred miles northeast from Santiago, and was the +capital of the island as first established by Velasquez. Here Leo X. +erected in 1518 the first cathedral in Cuba. The town is situated on +the north coast, near the eastern extremity of the island, having a +small but deep harbor, and a considerable trade in the shipping of +sugar and fruits to this country. The population at present numbers +about six thousand. Five years after the settlement of Baracoa, the +capital was moved to Santiago de Cuba, where it remained until 1589, +when Havana was formally declared to be the capital of the island, its +first Captain-General being Juan de Tejada. The city was captured and +partially destroyed by a French pirate in 1638, and afterwards +suffered a like catastrophe at the hands of the buccaneers of combined +nationality, embracing some disaffected Spaniards. So late as 1760 +Havana was captured and held by the English, under the Duke of +Albemarle, but was restored to Spain, after a brief occupancy, in +1763. The first grand impulse to the material prosperity of the city, +anomalous though it may seem, was given through its capture by the +British. It is true that the victors seized everything by force, but +they also taught the listless people how to repair their losses, and +how to multiply prosperity. The port of Havana, accustomed heretofore +to receive the visits of half a score of European vessels annually, +suddenly became the rendezvous of a thousand ships in the same period +of time, much to the surprise of the inhabitants. Bourbon in nature as +the Spaniards were and still are, they could not but profit by the +brilliant example of their enemies, and from that time forward the +city grew rapidly in commercial importance, and has continued to do +so, notwithstanding the rivalry of Matanzas, Santiago, Cienfuegos, and +other ports, as well as the drawbacks of civil war and business +stagnation. + +These buccaneers of the West Indies, to whom we have so often alluded, +were composed mostly of English, French, and Dutch adventurers, whose +bitter hatred the Spaniards early incurred. They were for a long time +their terror and scourge, being the real masters of the ocean in these +latitudes. They feared no enemy and spared none, while by shocking +acts of needless cruelty they proved themselves fiends in human shape. +Among these rovers there were often found men particularly fitted for +the adventurous career they had adopted, men who combined remarkable +executive ability with a spirit of daring bravery and a total +disregard of all laws, human and divine. By a few such leaders the +bands of freebooters were held in hand, and preserved their +organization for many years; obedience to the word of their chief, +after he was once chosen as such, being the one inviolable law of +their union. The romance of the sea owes its most startling chapters +to the career of these pirates. Sometimes their principal rendezvous +was at the Isle of Pines; at others further north among the Bahamas, +Nassau being one of their favorite resorts. + +In the mean time, under numerous and often changed Captains-General, +the island of Cuba increased in population by free emigration from +Spain, and by the constant importations of slaves from Africa. It may +be said to have been governed by a military despotism from the very +outset to the present time; and nothing short of such an arbitrary +rule could maintain the connection between the island and so exacting +a mother country, more than three thousand miles across the ocean. +Accordingly we find the Captain-General invested with unlimited power. +He is in fact a viceroy appointed by the crown of Spain, and +accountable only to the reigning sovereign for his administration of +the colony. His rule is absolute. He has the power of life and death +in his hands. He can by his arbitrary will send into exile any person +who resides in the island whom he considers inimical to the interests +of the home government. Of the exercise of this power instances are +constantly occurring, as in the case of the editor of the "Revista +Economica," already recorded. He can at will suspend the operation of +the laws and ordinances, can destroy or confiscate property, and in +short, the island may be said to be in a perpetual state of siege. + +Such is the infirmity of human nature that few individuals can be +safely trusted with despotic power; accordingly we find no +Captain-General whose administration will bear the test of rigid +examination. Indeed, the venality of a majority of these officials +has been so gross as to have passed into a proverb. It is not to be +expected that officers from Spain should consult the true interests of +the Cubans; they are not sent hither for that purpose, but merely to +look after the revenue of the crown, and to swell it to the very +uttermost. The office of Governor-General is of course a brilliant +prize, for which there are plenty of aspirants eagerly struggling, +while the means by which a candidate is most likely to succeed in +obtaining the appointment presupposes a character of an inferior +order. This official knows that he cannot count on a long term of +office, and hence he makes no effort to study the interests or gain +the good-will of the people over whom he presides. He has a twofold +object only in view: namely, to keep the revenue well up to the mark, +and to enrich himself as speedily as possible. The princely salary he +receives--fifty thousand dollars per annum, with a palace and +household attendants supplied--is but a portion of the income which, +by a system of peculation, he is enabled to divert to his private +coffers. As a rule, the Captain-General comes out to Cuba a poor man, +and returns a rich one, however brief his term of office. + +Occasionally during the lapse of years a true and patriotic man has +filled this important post, when the remarkable elements of prosperity +contained within the limits of this peerless land were rapidly +developed and advanced. Such an one was Don Luis de las Casas, whose +name is cherished by all patriotic Cubans, as also is that of Don +Francisco de Arrango, an accomplished statesman and a native of +Havana. He was educated in Spain, and designed to follow the law as a +profession. This man, being thoroughly acquainted with the +possibilities of the island and the condition and wants of his +countrymen, succeeded in procuring the amelioration of some of the +most flagrant abuses of the colonial system. In his argument for +reform before the home government, he told them that serious dissent +permeated every class of the community, and was bid in return to +employ a still more stringent system of rule. To this Arrango replied +that force was not remedy, and that to effectually reform the +rebellious they must first reform the laws. His earnest reason carried +conviction, and finally won concession. By his exertions the staple +productions of the island were so much increased that the revenue, in +place of falling short of the expenses of the government as his +enemies had predicted, soon yielded a large surplus. He early raised +his voice against the iniquitous slave trade, and suggested the +introduction of white labor, though he admitted that the immediate and +wholesale abolition of slavery was impracticable. This was the rock on +which he split, as it regarded his influence with the Spaniards in +Cuba, that is, with the planters and rich property holders. Slavery +with them was a sine qua non. Many of them owned a thousand Africans +each, and the institution, as an arbitrary power as well as the means +of wealth, was ever dear to the Spanish heart. Former and subsequent +Captains-General not only secretly encouraged the clandestine +importation of slaves, after issuing an edict prohibiting it, but +profited pecuniarily by the business. It was owing to his exertions +that the duty on coffee, spirits, and cotton was remitted for a period +of ten years, and that machinery for the sugar plantations was allowed +to be imported into Cuba from the United States free of all duty. + +The patriotic services of Arrango were appreciated by the court of +Madrid, although he was at times the inflexible opponent of its +selfish schemes. The Cross of Charles III. showed the esteem in which +he was held by that monarch. With a modesty which did him honor he +declined to accept a title of nobility which was afterwards tendered +to him by his king. This patriotic son of Cuba was at heart a +republican, and declared that the king could make noblemen, but God +only could make gentlemen. In 1813, when, by the adoption of the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba became entitled to representation in the +general Cortes,--a privilege but briefly enjoyed,--he went to Madrid +as a deputy, and there achieved the crowning glory of his useful life: +namely, the opening of the ports of the island to foreign trade. In +1817 he returned to his native land with the rank of Counselor of +State and Financial Intendant of Cuba, also possessing the Grand Cross +of the Order of Isabella. He died in 1837, at the age of seventy-two, +after a long and eminently useful life, bequeathing large sums of +money for various public purposes in his native isle. + +When the invasion of Spain, which took place in 1808, produced the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba was considered entitled, as we have stated, +to enjoy its benefits, and it was so announced by royal statute; but +political revolution at home and a manifest restiveness upon the +island finally led in 1836 to the revoking of this royal statute, +which had never been practically operative, and the old Constitution +was proclaimed. + +Up to this period of time the various political events at home had +disturbed but slightly the tranquillity of this rich province of +Spain. The Cubans, although sensible of the progress of public +intelligence and wealth under the protection of a few enlightened +governors and through the influence of some distinguished and +patriotic individuals, still felt that these advances were slow, +partial, and limited. The most intelligent realized that there was no +regular system; that the public interests were sure to suffer, +confided to officials entrusted with unlimited power. They frequently +saw themselves betrayed by a cupidity which impelled the authorities +to enrich themselves in every possible way at the expense of general +suffering. Added to these sources of discontent was the powerful +influence exerted by the spectacle of the rapidly increasing greatness +of the United States, where a portion of the Cuban youths were wont to +receive their education. No matter in what political faith these +youths had left home, they were sure to return republicans. + +There also were the examples of Mexico and Spanish South America, +which had recently conquered with their blood their emancipation from +monarchy. Liberal ideas were naturally diffused by Cubans who had +traveled either in Europe or North America, there imbibing the spirit +of modern civilization. But with a fatuity and obstinacy which has +always characterized her, the mother country resolved to ignore all +causes of discontent, and their significant influence as manifested by +the people of the island. In place of yielding to the popular current +and introducing a liberal and mild system of government, she drew the +reins yet tighter, curtailing many former privileges. Thus it was that +blind persistence in the fatal principle of despotic domination +relaxed the natural bonds uniting Cuba and the mother country, and +infused gall into the hearts of the governed. Obedience still +continued, but it was the dangerous obedience of terror, not the +secure and instinctive spirit of loyalty. + +This severity on the part of the home government has naturally given +rise to several attempts to cast off the Spanish yoke. The first +occurred in 1823, when Simon Bolivar offered to aid the disaffected +party by throwing an invading force into the island. Another was made +in 1826, and a third in 1828. In 1848 a conspiracy was formed at +Cienfuegos and Trinidad to establish Cuban independence, under the +leadership of General Narciso Lopez; but finding that his plans were +premature, he escaped to this country, and here arranged a descent +upon the island, which he led in person: this was in 1850. General +Lopez, however, was not seconded by the timid natives, though they had +freely pledged themselves to do so, and his expedition, after winning +one decisive battle and several important skirmishes, was at last +overpowered and its leader promptly executed. General Lopez was an +adopted citizen of Cuba, and was married to one of her daughters. He +was executed at the age of fifty-two. + +The Lopez expedition would seem to have been the most serious and best +organized attempt at revolution in Cuba by invasion, though there have +been formidable attempts since. From 1868 to 1876 Cuba may be said to +have been in a state of chronic civil war. This outbreak was led by +Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, an able lawyer and wealthy planter of +Bayamo, in the eastern department of the island. He raised the +standard of independence on his estate, Demajagua, supported at the +outset by less than fifty men. This was in October, 1868, and by the +middle of November he had an organized army of twelve thousand men; +poorly armed, it must be admitted, but united in purpose and of +determined will. That portion of the island contiguous to Santiago, +and between that city and Cienfuegos, was for a long period almost +entirely in possession of the patriot forces. Here many sanguinary +battles were fought with varying fortune, at terrible sacrifice of +life, especially on the part of the government troops, over one +hundred thousand of whom, first and last, are known to have perished +in that district. Spain actually sent one hundred and forty-five +thousand enlisted men to Cuba during the eight years of active +warfare. Of this number those who finally returned to the European +peninsula were but a few hundreds! It was publicly stated in the +Cortes of Madrid that not enough of that immense force ever returned +to fill a single regiment! The climate was far more fatal to these +soldiers than were patriot bullets. The warfare was conducted by the +native Cubans mostly on the guerrilla plan, and was ten times more +destructive to the imported soldiers than to themselves. Discipline +counted for little or nothing in contending with men who fought +single-handed and from ambush, decimating the ranks of an invading +column, who in turn could only fire at random. + +Exhaustion and promised concessions, which were, as usual with the +Spanish government, never fulfilled, finally brought this struggle to +an end; but it cost Spain many millions of dollars and the lives of +over a hundred and fifty thousand men, saying nothing of the +destruction of an enormous amount of property on the island, belonging +to loyal Spaniards. Miles upon miles of thrifty plantations, with all +their buildings and machinery, were laid waste, and remain so to this +day. + +Since 1876 there have been roving bands of insurgents in existence, +causing the authorities more or less serious trouble, leading them at +times to make serious attempts at their entire suppression. But the +mountains and half-inaccessible forests of the eastern department +still serve to secrete many armed and disaffected people, whose +frequent outbreaks are made public by the slow process of oral +information. The press is forbidden to publish any news of this +character. Thus it will be seen that, although the spirit of liberty +may slumber in the island, it is by no means dead, nor is the intense +hatred which exists between the home-born Spaniard and the native +Cuban growing less from year to year. Indeed, the insurrection of +Trinidad and Cienfuegos (1868) still smoulders, and any extreme +political exigency would be liable to cause it to blaze forth with +renewed force. The region where the insurgents have always made their +rendezvous, and which they have virtually held for years, is nearest +to Guantanamo and Santiago. This mountainous district is the resort of +all runaway slaves, escaped criminals, and those designated as +insurgents. These together form at the present time a roving community +of several hundred desperate men. These refugees, divided into small +bands, make predatory raids upon travelers and loyal planters, as we +have described, to keep themselves supplied with the necessities of +life other than those afforded by the prolific hand of Nature. +Occasionally they are organized by some fresh leader, some daring +native, stimulated by a spirit of patriotism, and possessing some +executive ability; then follows a systematic outbreak of just +sufficient importance to harass the government, and to form, perhaps, +an excuse for demanding a fresh regiment of victims from the European +peninsula. Such a guerrilla contest engages the worst passions of the +combatants, and quarter is neither asked nor given when they come face +to face. The bloodthirsty acts of both sides, as related to the author +during his late visit to the spot, are too horrible to record in these +pages. It is not legitimate warfare, but rather wholesale murder, +which characterizes these occasions, and there is no expedient of +destruction not resorted to by both the refugees and the pursuing +soldiers. The nature of the country favors the revolutionists, and +determines their mode of conflict. Thus far, when the irregular bands +have been strong enough to meet these detachments of regulars sent +into their neighborhood to capture them, they have nearly always +beaten them gallantly, and this has served to perpetuate their hopes, +desperate as is a cause which only outlaws, escaped criminals, and +slaves dare to fight for. These people appear to be well supplied with +arms and ammunition, which it is said are smuggled to them from +sympathizers in this country, particularly from Florida. Though their +ranks are supposed to embrace but small numbers, still they form a +nucleus at all times, about which discontented spirits may gather. +Thus it is found necessary to quarter a foreign army of thirty +thousand soldiers upon the people at the present time, while half the +navy of Spain lies anchored in the ports of the island. + +One great drawback and defect in the character of the native Cubans +is a want of self-reliance. The remedy for the outrageous oppression +under which they have so long struggled lies within themselves; "for +they can conquer who believe they can." In the consciousness of +strength is strength, but the Creole republicans have never yet +evinced the necessary degree of true manhood to challenge general +outside sympathy, or to command the respect of other nationalities. +The numerous revolutionary outbreaks upon the island--so frequent in +the last half century as to be chronic--have all been of the most +insignificant character, compared with the importance of the occasion +and the object in view. These efforts have mostly been made from +without, almost entirely unsupported from within the borders of Cuba, +with the exception of that of 1868. It appears incredible that an +intelligent people, within so short a distance of our Southern coast, +constantly visited by the citizens of a free republic, and having the +example of successful revolt set them by the men of the same race, +both in the North and the South, weighed down by oppression almost +without parallel, should never have aimed an effectual blow at their +oppressors. It would seem that the softness of the unrivaled climate +of those skies, beneath which it is luxury only to exist, has unnerved +this people, and that the effeminate spirit of the original +inhabitants had descended in retribution to the posterity of their +conquerors. + +In closing these brief chapters relating to the early history of the +island of Cuba, and in bringing the record up to our own period, some +natural reflections suggest themselves as to the present condition of +the mother country. We follow with more than passing interest the +condition of Spain, whose history is so closely interwoven with our +own. From the close of the fifteenth century our paths have run on in +parallel lines, but while we have gone on increasing in power and +wealth, she has sunk in the scale of decadence with a rapidity no less +surprising than has been the speed of our own progress. At the +commencement of the sixteenth century Spain threatened to become the +mistress of the world, as Rome had been before her. She may be said to +have at that period dominated Europe. In art she was in the very +foremost position: Murillo, Velasquez, Ribera, and other famous +painters were her honored sons. In literature she was also +distinguished: both Cervantes and Lope de Vega contributed to her +greatness and lasting fame. While, in discoverers and conquerors, she +sent forth Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. The banners of Castile and +Aragon floated alike on the Pacific and the margin of the Indian +Ocean. Her ships sailed in every sea, and brought home freights of +fabulous value from all the regions of the earth. Her manufacturers +produced the richest silks and velvets; her soil yielded corn and +wine; her warriors were adventurous and brave; her soldiers inherited +the gallantry of the followers of Charles V.; her cities were the +splendid abodes of luxury, refinement, and elegance. She was the court +of Europe, the acknowledged leader of chivalry and of grandeur. + +This is the picture of what Spain was at no remote period of time, but +in her instance we have an example showing us that states are no more +exempt than individuals from the mutability of fate. So was it with +Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, and Rome, though in their case we look far +back into the vista of history to recall the change, whereas in the +instance of Spain we are contemporary witnesses. From a first-class +power, how rapidly she has sunk into comparative insignificance! She +has been shorn of her wealthy colonies, one after another, in the East +and in the West, holding with feeble grasp a few inconsiderable +islands only besides this gem of the Antilles, the choicest jewel of +her crown. Extremely poor and deeply indebted, she has managed for +years to extort by means of the most outrageous system of taxation a +large share of her entire revenue from the island of Cuba, her home +population having long since become exhausted by over-burdensome +imposts. Her nobles of to-day are an effeminate, soulless, and +imbecile race, while the common people, with some excellent qualities, +are yet ignorant, cruel, and passionate. The whole country is divided +against itself, the tottering throne being with difficulty upheld. +Even the elements have of late seemed to combine against her, +decimating whole cities of her southern possessions by earthquakes, +and smiting her people with pestilence. + +This simple statement of her present situation is patent to all who +read and observe. It is not an overdrawn picture. In it the moralist +beholds the retributive justice of providence. As Spain in the +plenitude of her power was ambitious, cruel, and perfidious, so has +the measure which she meted out to others been in return accorded to +herself. As with fire and sword she swept the Aztec and the Incas from +Mexico and Peru, so was she at last driven from these genial countries +by their revolted inhabitants. The spoiler has been despoiled, the +victor has been vanquished, and thus has Spain met the just fate +clearly menaced by the Scriptures to those who smite with the sword. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. + + +Having thus briefly glanced at the historical and political story of +Cuba,--whose very name seems bathed in sunshine and fragrance, yet +bedewed with human tears,--let us now consider its peculiarities of +climate, soil, and population, together with its geographical +characteristics. The form of the island is quite irregular, resembling +the blade of a Turkish scimitar slightly curved back, or that of a +long narrow crescent, presenting its convex side to the north. It +stretches away in this shape from east to west, throwing its western +end into a curve, as if to form a barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of +Mexico, and as if at some ancient period it had formed a part of the +American continent; severed on its north side from the Florida +peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf Stream, and from Yucatan, on its +southwestern point, by a current setting into the Gulf. Two broad +channels are thus formed, by either of which the Mexican Gulf is +entered. + +These channels are nearly of the same width, somewhat exceeding a +hundred miles each, the northern passage being a few miles the +broader. The Bahama Banks extend along its northern coast-line about +fifty or sixty miles distant, where commences the group of many small +isles known as the Bahamas, and of which we have already treated. On +her eastern extreme, near Cape Maysi, Cuba is within about fifty miles +of the western shore of Hayti, from which it is separated by the +Windward Passage. The southern shore is washed by the Caribbean Sea, +which is also here and there interspersed with small islands of little +importance. One hundred and fifty miles due south lies the British +island of Jamaica, with a superficial area of over four thousand +square miles. Still further to the eastward, on the other side of +Hayti, lies Porto Rico (like Cuba a Spanish possession), and the two +groups of islands known as the Leeward and Windward isles. These are +of various nationalities, including English, French, and Dutch, thus +completing the entire region familiarly known to us as the West +Indies. + +In approaching the coast from the Windward isles, the observant +traveler will notice the fields of what is called gulf-weed, which +floats upon the surface of the sea. It is a unique genus, found +nowhere except in these tropical waters, and must not be confounded +with the sea-weed encountered by Atlantic steamers off the Banks of +Newfoundland, and about the edges of the Gulf Stream in that region. +This singular and interesting weed propagates itself on the waves, and +there sustains, as on the shore of New Providence, zoöphytes and +mollusks which also abound in these latitudes. The poetical theory +relating to this sargasso, and possibly to the animals that cling to +it, is that it marks the site of an Atlantic continent sunk long ages +since, and that, transformed from a rooting to a floating plant, it +wanders round and round as if in search of the rocks upon which it +once grew. The southern shore of Cuba presents much of special +interest to the conchologist in the variety and beauty of the +sea-shells that abound upon its beaches. The water is of an exquisite +color, a brilliant green, very changeable, like liquid opal. Were an +artist truthfully to depict it, he would be called color-mad. Northern +skies are never reflected in waters of such fanciful hues. Some +beautiful specimens of white corals are found here, but they are not a +characteristic of the coast. + +On that portion bordering the Old Bahama Channel, and also opposite +the Isle of Pines, which Columbus named Evangelista,--on this south +shore, large numbers of turtles are taken annually, which produce the +best quality of tortoise-shell. It is strange that the habits of these +creatures down here in the Caribbean Sea should so closely resemble +those of the tiny tortoises described by Thoreau as frequenting Walden +Pond. The female turtle digs the hole in which to deposit her eggs on +the sandy beach, just above the margin of high tide, generally +choosing a moonlight night for the purpose. The hole is often so large +that the turtle will require an hour of industrious labor to dig it to +her entire satisfaction. Observing the strictest silence, the +turtle-hunter steals upon the animal, and with a single motion turns +it upon its back, rendering it utterly helpless, after which it can be +secured at will. Thousands are annually caught in this manner. + +It is a curious fact worth recalling to memory that four hundred +years ago, when Columbus first landed upon the island, he found that +the aborigines kept turtle corrals near the beach, amply supplied with +these animals. From them they procured eggs, and also furnished +themselves with the only meat which it was possible to obtain, if we +except that of the little "voiceless dog" which they hunted, and such +birds as they could snare. Probably as many turtles were taken by +those Carib Indians in 1492 as are caught by the fishermen this year +of our Lord, in the same waters, showing how inexhaustible is the +supply of Neptune's kingdom. Modern epicures may not therefore claim +any distinction as to the priority of discovery touching turtle soup +and turtle steaks, both of which were certainly indulged in by the +Caribs in Columbus' time, and probably they were in vogue many +centuries previous. + +One neither departs from nor approaches the Cuban shore without +crossing that marvelous ocean river, the Gulf Stream, with banks and +bottom of cold water, while its body and surface are warm. Its color, +in the region of the gulf where it seems to have its rise, is indigo +blue, so distinct that the eye can follow its line of demarkation +where it joins the common waters of the sea in their prairie-green. +Its surface temperature on the coast of the United States is from 75° +to 80° Fahrenheit. Its current, of a uniform speed of four to five +miles per hour, expends immense power in its course, and moves a body +of water in the latitude of the Carolina coast fully two hundred miles +wide. This aqueous body exceeds in quantity the rivers of the +Mississippi and the Amazon multiplied one thousand times. Its +temperature diminishes very gradually, while it moves thousands of +leagues, until one branch loses itself in Arctic regions, and the +other breaks on the coast of Europe. It is well known to navigators +that one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its outlet northward from the +Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage, and that here the current +extends to the depth of eight hundred fathoms; the width, however, in +this section is not over ten miles. It will be nothing new to tell the +reader that the sea, especially in its proximity to the continents, +has a similar topographical conformation beneath its surface. The +bottom consists of hills, mountains, and valleys, like the surface of +the earth upon which we live. A practical illustration of the fact is +afforded in the soundings taken by the officers of our Coast Survey in +the Caribbean Sea, where a valley was found giving a water depth of +three thousand fathoms, twenty-five miles south of Cuba. The Cayman +islands, in that neighborhood, are the summit of mountains bordering +this deep valley at the bottom of the sea. It is known to extend over +seven hundred miles, from between Cuba and Jamaica nearly to the head +of the bay of Honduras, with an average breadth of eighty miles. How +suggestive the subject of these submarine Alps! Thus the island of +Grand Cayman, scarcely twenty feet above sea level, is the top of a +mountain twenty thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet above the +bottom of the submarine valley beside which it rises,--an altitude +exceeding that of any mountain on the North American continent. A +little more than five miles, or say twenty-seven thousand feet, is the +greatest depth yet sounded at sea. + +With an extensive coast-line particularly well adapted for the +purpose, smuggling is at all times successfully carried on in Cuba, +stimulated by an almost prohibitory tariff. It is well understood that +many of the most prosperous merchants in Havana are secretly engaged +in this business. The blindness of minor officials is easily +purchased. The eastern department of the island is most notorious for +this class of illegal trade. It was through these agencies that the +revolutionists were so well supplied with arms, ammunition, and other +necessities during the eight years of civil war. While we are writing +these lines, the cable brings us news of a fresh landing of +"filibusters" on the shores in this immediate neighborhood. + +Cuba is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and compared with +the others has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory, +being about as large as England proper, without the principality of +Wales. Its greatest length from east to west is very nearly eight +hundred miles; its narrowest part is over twenty miles, and its +average width about forty miles. The circumference of the island is +set down at two thousand miles, and it is supposed to contain +thirty-five thousand square miles. The face of the interior is +undulating, with an average level of three hundred feet above the +surface of the sea. The narrow form of the island, and the chain of +mountains which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a +limited course for its rivers, and consequently most of these in the +rainy season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are +nearly dried up. Those streams which sustain themselves at all seasons +are well stocked with fine fish, and afford to lovers of the piscatory +art admirable sport. Near their mouths some of the rivers, like those +of the opposite coast of Florida, are frequented by crocodiles. + +The chain of mountains running through the centre of the island, more +or less broken in its course, is lofty in the east, but gradually +diminishes in elevation towards the west, until it becomes a series of +gently undulating hills of one or two hundred feet above sea level, +ceasing as a connected range in the vicinity of Matanzas. On the +easterly end this range of mountains approaches the south coast +between Puerto Principe and Trinidad. The country lying between Cape +Cruz, Cape Maysi, and the town of Holguin has the highest elevations; +the most lofty point, Turquino, lately measured, has a height of ten +thousand eight hundred feet. Illustrative of the great revolutions +which the globe has undergone in its several geological epochs, +petrified shells and bivalves are found on the summits of these +highest peaks, surrounded by coral rocks, both of which differ +entirely from those at present existing on the shores of the Antilles. +An immense bowlder was pointed out to us on the summit of La Gran +Piedra, at an elevation of five thousand feet, of totally different +composition from any other rocks on the island. The great mystery is +how such a mass of solid stone could have got there. Most of these +mountains are thickly wooded, some of them to their very tops, and +appear to be in a perpetual state of verdure. There are mahogany trees +in these hills reported to be of almost fabulous dimensions, besides +other trees of great age. Some idea of the excellence of the timber +grown in Cuba may be had from the fact that over one hundred Spanish +ships of war--some of which were of the largest size, mounting a +hundred and twenty guns--have been built from native stock at the port +of Havana. + +Copper ore is found in abundance, as well as silver and iron, in the +mountains. Snow is never known to fall even in these elevated +districts, and of course in no other part of the island. In the +interior, the extreme heat of the low-lying sea-coast and cities is +not experienced, and the yellow fever is unknown. Low, level swampy +land is found only on the southern coast, where there are some wild +deer, wild cats and dogs, which are hunted; the former introduced into +Cuba half a century since, the two latter descended from domestic +animals. Large tracts of undulating country are without trees, +affording good pasturage. In some of the mountains are extensive +caves, not unlike the caves of Bellamar near the city of Matanzas, in +which are still to be found the bones of an unknown race, while +several of these elevations are so precipitous as to be nearly +inaccessible. + +Travelers who have visited the Bay of Biscay, on the French and +Spanish shore near Biarritz, have observed how the rocks have been +worn into caverns, arches, alcoves, and honeycombed formations by the +action of the waters for centuries. Just so the soft limestone strata +beneath the surface of Cuba, in many portions of the island, have been +hollowed out, tunneled, and formed into caves, by the tremendous +downpour and wash of tropical rains. So the action of the sea has +created a cave under Moro Castle, at the mouth of the harbor of +Havana, as well as under that other Moro which stands guard over the +entrance of Santiago de Cuba. The existence of these subterranean +caverns has often led to serious accidents. In some instances +buildings which were by chance erected just over them have suddenly +been swallowed up as though by an earthquake. + +Many of the rivers are navigable for short distances. The longest is +the Cauto, in the eastern department, which, rising in the Sierra del +Cobre, passes between Holguin and Jiguani, and empties on the south +coast a little north of Manzanillo. It is navigable for half its +length, between fifty and sixty leagues. The river Ay has falls in its +course two hundred feet high, and a natural bridge spanning it, nearly +as remarkable as that of Virginia. The Sagua le Grande is navigable +for five leagues, and the same may be said of the river Sasa. The +Agabama, emptying on the south coast near Trinidad, is also partially +navigable. There are two hundred and sixty rivers in all, independent +of rivulets and torrents. So abundantly is the island supplied with +fresh-water springs, especially on the south side, that the pure +liquid filters through the fissures of the stratified rock in such +quantities as to form, by hydrostatic pressure, springs in the sea +itself some distance from the shore. The sulphurous and thermal +springs of San Diego are the resort of numerous invalids annually, who +come hither from Europe and America. + +The coast and harbors of Cuba are carefully marked for the purpose of +navigation by eighteen well-placed lighthouses, visible from fifteen +to twenty miles at sea, according to the importance of the surrounding +points. That which stands in Moro Castle, on the south side of the +harbor's entrance at Havana, is eighty feet in height and about a +hundred and fifty from the level of the sea. It is visible in clear +weather twenty miles from shore. In honor of a former Governor-General +this lighthouse bears the inscription "O'Donnell, 1844," in mammoth +letters. So plain and safe is the entrance to this harbor, which in +the narrowest part is some hundred yards wide, that a pilot is hardly +necessary, though foreign vessels generally take one. There is little +or no tide on this part of the coast, the variations never exceeding +two feet. No regular ebb and flow is therefore observable, but when +the land breeze rises there is a very slight tide-way setting out of +the harbor. No country in the world of the size of this island has so +many large and fine harbors. They number twenty-nine on its northern +side and twenty-eight on the southern. The well-defined water-line +along the yellow, rusty rocks of the coast shows the mark of ages, and +also that there has been no upheaval since the land took its present +shape. Where there are no regular harbors the shore is indented with +numerous deep channels forming inlets, safe only for native boatmen, +as the winding course of the blue waters covers myriads of sunken +rocks. On the southern side, opposite the Isle of Pines, there are +some beautiful reaches of beach, over which the gentle surf rolls +continuously with a murmur so soft as to seem like the whispered +secrets of the sea. Yet what frightful historic memories brood over +these deep waters of the Archipelago, where for nearly two centuries +floated and fought the ships of sea-robbers of every nationality, and +where the cunning but guilty slave-clippers, fresh from the coast of +Africa, loaded with kidnapped men and women, made their harbor! With +all their dreamy beauty, the tropics are full of sadness, both in +their past and present history. + +The occasional hurricanes, which prove so disastrous to the Bahamas +and other isles in the immediate vicinity of Cuba, rarely extend their +influence to its shores, but the bursts of fury which these usually +tranquil seas sometimes indulge in are not excelled in violence in the +worst typhoon regions. + +The nearest port of the island to this continent is Matanzas, lying +due south from Cape Sable, Florida, a distance of a hundred and thirty +miles. Havana is located some sixty miles west of Matanzas, and it is +here that the island divides the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, whose +coast-line, measuring six thousand miles, finds the outlet of its +commerce along the shore of Cuba, almost within range of the guns in +Moro Castle. Lying thus at our very door as it were, this island +stands like a sentinel, guarding the approaches of the Gulf of Mexico, +whose waters wash the shores of five of the United States, and by +virtue of the same position barring the entrance of the great river +which drains half the continent of North America. Nor does the +importance of the situation end here. Cuba keeps watch and ward over +our communication with California by way of the isthmus. The peculiar +formation of the southeastern shore of this continent, and the +prevalence of the trade-winds, with the oceanic current from east to +west, make the ocean passage skirting the shore of Cuba the natural +outlet for the commerce also of Venezuela, New Granada, Costa Rica, +and Nicaragua. It is not surprising, therefore, when we realize the +commanding position of the island, that so much of interest attaches +to its ultimate destiny. + +Cuba seems formed to become the very button on Fortune's cap. No +wonder that the Abbé Raynal pronounced it to be the boulevard of the +New World, or that the Spanish historian called it the fairest emerald +in the crown of Ferdinand and Isabella. Under any other government in +Christendom than that of Spain, the island would to-day have been one +vast smiling garden, for its natural advantages are absolutely +unequaled. To oppress and rob its inhabitants has been the unvarying +policy of the home government from first to last. The undisguised +system has been to extort from them every farthing possible in the way +of taxes. No legitimate business could sustain itself against the +enormous exactions of the Spanish rule. Coffee and cotton planting +have been absolutely driven out of the island by the taxes imposed +upon their production. In short, the mother country has carried her +system of oppression and despotism in Cuba to the utmost stretch of +human audacity. + +Probably no place has a finer or more desirable climate than has the +main portion of Cuba, with the clear atmosphere of the low latitudes, +no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and a season of endless summer. We +do not wonder that the Northern invalid turns instinctively towards so +inviting a clime, where Nature in all her moods is so regal. The +appearance of the sky at night is far brighter and more beautiful than +at the North. The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency +with the departure of the day. Sunset is remarkable for its soft +mellow beauty, all too brief to a New England eye accustomed to the +lingering brilliancy of our twilights. For more than half a century +the island has been the resort of invalids from colder climes in +search of health, especially those laboring under pulmonary +affections. Such have rarely failed to realize more or less benefit +from the mild and equable temperature. The climate so uniformly soft +and soothing, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so +delicious and abundant, give it a character akin to fairyland. Here +Nature seems ever in a tender, loving mood, the very opposite of her +cold temperament at the North. + +The best time to visit the island, for those who do so in search of +health, is from the beginning of January to the middle of May. It is +imprudent to remain in the cities of Cuba later than the latter +period, as the fever season then commences. The invalid will find that +very many physical comforts, and some things deemed imperative at +home, must be sacrificed here as quite unattainable: such, for +instance, as good beds, strict cleanliness, good milk, and sweet +butter. The climatic advantages must suffice for such deprivations. +During the greater portion of the year it is dry and hot, the rainy +season commencing in June and ending in September. The northeast +trade-winds blow over the island from March to October, and though it +is especially important to avoid all draughts in the tropics, still +one can always find a sufficiently cool and comfortable temperature +somewhere, when the trade-wind prevails. To persons in the early +stages of consumption this region holds forth great promise of relief; +the author can bear witness of remarkable benefit having been realized +in many instances. At the period of the year when New England invalids +most require to avoid the rigors of the prevailing east winds, namely, +in February, March, April, and early May, the island of Cuba is in the +glory of high summer, and enjoying the healthiest period of its annual +returns. When consumption originates in the island,--as was also found +to be the case at Nassau,--it runs its course to a fatal end with such +rapidity that the natives consider it to be a contagious disease. +Early in May the unacclimated would do well to leave, taking passage +up the Gulf to New Orleans, or across the Gulf Stream, which here runs +thirty-two miles in width, to Key West, Florida, thence by boat to +Tampa Bay, and by railroad to Sanford, and by the St. John's River to +St. Augustine, enjoying a brief stay at the latter places, where every +requisite convenience can be enjoyed. Jacksonville should not be +missed, and by coming north thus slowly and pleasantly, the change of +climate is not realized, and June weather will greet the returning +traveler with genial warmth. + +Owing to the proximity of the northwestern part of Cuba to our own +continent, the climate is somewhat variable, and at a height of five +hundred feet above the level of the sea, ice is sometimes, though +rarely formed; but, as has already been said in these notes, snow +never falls upon the island. At long intervals Cuba has been visited +by brief hailstorms, and persons who tell you this will add, "but we +never have known it in our day." In the cities and near the swamps, +the yellow fever, that scourge of all hot climates, prevails from the +middle of June to the last of October; but in the interior of the +island, where the visitor is at a wholesome distance from humidity and +stagnant water, it is no more unhealthy than our own cities in summer. +It is doubtful if Havana, even in the fever season, is any more +unhealthy than New Orleans at the same period of the year. Fevers of +different degrees of malignity prevail from May to November, and +occasionally throughout the year. Among these the yellow fever is the +most dangerous, and sooner or later all resident foreigners seem to +suffer from it, as a sort of acclimation; once experienced, however, +one is seldom attacked a second time. In the ports yellow fever is +often induced by carelessness and exposure; excesses on the part of +foreign sailors are frequently the cause of its fatal attack upon +them. The thermometer is never known to rise so high in Havana or +Santiago, the opposite extremes of the island, as it does sometimes in +New York and Boston. The average temperature is recorded as being 77°, +maximum 89°, minimum 50° Fahrenheit. We have been thus elaborate as +regards this matter because it is of such general interest to all +invalids who annually seek an equable clime. + +The principal cities are Havana, with a population of nearly three +hundred thousand; Matanzas, with fifty thousand; Puerto Principe, +thirty thousand; Cienfuegos, twenty-five thousand; Trinidad, fourteen +thousand; San Salvador, ten thousand; Manzanillo, Cardenas, Nuevitas, +Sagua la Grande, and Mariel. Among its largest and finest harbors +those of Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Nipe, and Nuevitas are the best; +the bay of Matanzas is also large, but shallow. This city stands next +to Havana in population, but not in commercial importance. It is said +to be healthier than the capital, but it lacks those attractions of +life and gayety which are essential even to invalids to render them +contented. The streets are wide, and many of the Moorish +characteristics of Spanish cities, so common in both this island and +the European peninsula, are wanting here. It was built much later and +more under foreign direction than Havana. The secret of the superior +health of Matanzas over that of the capital is undoubtedly because of +its better drainage and general cleanliness. + +Located in one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city +extends up the picturesque and verdant hills by which the bay is +surrounded, in the form of an amphitheatre. The fortifications are of +rather a meagre character, and could not withstand a well organized +attack for half an hour. Modern improvements in the construction of +heavy guns and projectiles have rendered all the forts in Cuba of no +importance as a means of defense against a first-class invading fleet. +The custom house is the most prominent building which strikes the eye +on approaching the city by water; though built of stone, it is only +one story in height, and was erected at the commencement of the +present century. On the heights above the city the inhabitants have +planted their country seats, from whence the view of the widespreading +bay forms a delightful picture. The climate is thought to be +especially adapted for the cure of throat and lung diseases, and the +city is annually resorted to by those seeking relief from these +troubles, as also by those afflicted with neuralgia and rheumatism. +The first land made by southern-bound steamers from Boston and New +York is the Monte del Pan, or Bread Mountain, forming a lofty +background for the city. There are three large churches in Matanzas, a +well appointed and spacious theatre, a bull-ring, and cock-pits. +Statistics show that the custom-house receipts of the port reach about +two million dollars annually. There are two railroads connecting the +city with Havana, one of which runs also to the interior southeasterly +to Cienfuegos, Sagua, and Villa Clara, intersecting a rich +sugar-producing country, from whence it brings a large amount of +freight to the coast for shipment. On these Cuban roads one rides in +American-built cars, drawn by American engines, and often run by +American engineers. Railroads were in use in Cuba before they were +adopted in any other Spanish-speaking country, and there are now +nearly a thousand miles in active operation on the island. + +Matanzas is bounded on the north by the river Yumuri, and on the south +by that of San Juan. The town is built upon the site of a former +Indian village, known to the early discoverers by the name of Yucayo. +It is upon the whole a well-built city, containing some small public +squares and a pretty Plaza de Armas, like that of Havana, ornamented +with choice trees and flowers, with a statue of Ferdinand VII. in its +centre. It was in this square that Gabriel Concepcion de la Valdez, a +mulatto poet and patriot of Cuba, was shot by the soldiers of the +line. He was accused of complicity with the slave insurrection of +1844, when the blacks attempted to gain their freedom. At the time of +his execution the first volley fired by the troops failed to touch a +vital spot, and the brave victim, bleeding from many wounds, still +stood erect, facing his executioners. He then pointed to his heart, +and said in a calm clear voice, "Aim here!" The order was at once +obeyed, and the second volley sent the heroic man to that haven where +there is no distinction as to color. This martyr, of whom +comparatively little is known to the public, possessed all the true +elements of a poet. Many of his productions have been preserved in +print, and some were translated and republished in England a few years +since. + +The Plaza of Matanzas is small, smaller even than that of Cienfuegos, +but it presents within its circumscribed space a great variety of +tropical trees and flowers, over which stand, sentinel-like, a few +royal palms with their ashen-gray stems and concentric rings. The star +of Bethlehem, fifteen feet high, was here seen full of lovely scarlet +blossoms; the southern jasmine, yellow as gold, was in its glory; +mignonette, grown to a graceful tree of twenty feet in height, was +fragrant and full of blossoms, close beside the delicate vinca, decked +in white and red. Some broad-leaved bananas were thriving in the +Plaza, while creeping all over that tree and shrub combined, the +Spanish bayonet, were pink, purple, and white morning-glories, at once +so familiar and suggestive. Opposite the Plaza are several government +offices, and two or three very large, fine club-houses, remarkable for +the excellence of their appointments and the spaciousness of the +public rooms. Club life prevails in Matanzas, as usual at the expense +of domestic life, just as it does in Havana, being very much like +London in this respect. It is forbidden to discuss politics in these +clubs, the hours being occupied mostly over games of chance, such as +cards, dominoes, chess, and checkers. Gambling is as natural and +national in Cuba as in China. Many Chinese are seen about the streets +and stores of Matanzas, as, indeed, all over the island--poor fellows +who have survived their apprenticeship and are now free. They are +peaceful, do not drink spirits, work from morning until night, never +meddle with politics, and live on one half they can earn, so as to +save enough to return to their beloved native land. You may persuade +him to assent to any form of religion as a temporary duty, but John is +a heathen at heart, and a heathen he will die. + +The famous afternoon drive of Matanzas was formerly the San Carlos +Paseo. It has fine possibilities, and is lined and beautifully +ornamented with thrifty Indian laurels. It overlooks the spacious +harbor and outer bay, but is now utterly neglected and abandoned; even +the roadway is green with vegetation and gullied with deep hollows. It +is the coolest place in the city at the evening hour, but the people +have become so poor that there are hardly a dozen private vehicles +owned in the city, and, consequently, its famous drive is deserted. +Matanzas, like all the cities of Cuba, is under the shadow of +depressed business, the evidences of which meet one on all hands. + +The two objects of special interest to strangers who visit Matanzas +are, first, the valley of the Yumuri, which may be described briefly +as a narrow gorge four miles long, through which flows the river of +the same name. The view of this lovely valley will recall, to any one +who has visited Spain, the Vega of Granada. There are several +positions from which to obtain a good view of the valley, but that +enjoyed from the Chapel of Monserrate, on the hill just back of the +town, is nearest, and was most satisfactory to us. The view includes a +valley, peaceful, tropical, and verdant, embracing plantations, +groves, and farms, in the midst of which the river glides like a +silver thread through the verdure, and empties into the Bay of +Matanzas. The universal belief is that this vale was once a vast, deep +lake, walled across the present seaward opening of the valley, from +whence a fall may have existed as a natural overflow. Some fearful +convulsion of nature rent this bowl and precipitated the lake into the +ocean, leaving only the river's course. + +The second object of note which the visitor will not willingly miss is +a sight of the famous caves of Bellamar, situated about two leagues +from the city proper. It is customary to make this trip in a volante, +and it is quite the thing to ride, at least once, in this unique +vehicle, the only article ever invented in Cuba. The road to the +caves is extremely rough, and this vehicle is best adapted to pass +over the irregularities. If there are only gentlemen of the party, go +on horseback. On entering the caves the visitor should throw off any +extra clothing that can conveniently be left behind, as it is very +warm within, and on coming out, unless one has an extra garment to put +on, too great a change of temperature will be realized. These singular +caves lead three hundred feet and more beneath the surface, and +present beauties to the eye incident to all such subterranean +formations. They were discovered accidentally, a few years since, by +some stone quarriers, who, on opening into them, imagined they had +broken the crust of the earth. In driving to the caves the Bay Street +road, through the city, should be taken, which forms one of the finest +thoroughfares of any Cuban town. The architecture of the dwellings is +that of combined Italian, Grecian, and Moorish, ornamented with +colonnades and verandas of stone and iron. Fine as the façades of +these houses are,--none above one story in height,--they present a +faded and forlorn aspect, a sort of dead-and-alive appearance, yet in +accordance with life and business, not only in Matanzas, but all over +the island. This one boulevard of Matanzas ends by the shore of the +bay, where the fine marine view will cause you to forget all other +impressions for the moment, but you will not tarry here. Turning +eastward you soon strike the road to the caves, and _such_ a road--it +is like the bed of a dry mountain torrent. + +Persons visiting Matanzas must make up their minds to be content with +indifferent hotel accommodations. In fact there are no really good +hotels in Cuba; those which exist are poor and expensive. On the +inland routes away from the cities there are none, and the humble +hostelries, or posadas, as they are called, are so indifferent in +point of comforts as not to deserve the name of inns. As a rule, +invalids rarely go beyond the cities to remain over night. Brief and +pleasant sojourns may be made at Havana, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, and +Sagua la Grande, from whence excursions can be made by rail or +otherwise and return on the same day. Let us qualify these remarks, as +applied to the Hotel Louvre at Matanzas. There was a degree of +picturesqueness about this establishment which was not without its +attraction, and it was certainly the most cleanly public house in +which we found a temporary home while on the island. Its rooms +surrounded a bright clean court, or patio, planted with creeping +vines, palmettos, bananas, and some fragrant flowering shrubs. The +dining-room is virtually out of doors, being open on all sides, and +opposite the hotel is a small plaza with tropical trees, backed by an +old, musty church, whose bell had the true Spanish trick of giving +tongue at most inopportune moments. The rooms of the Louvre are quite +circumscribed as to space, and the partitions separating the +apartments do not reach to the ceiling, so that privacy, night or day, +is out of the question. The floors are all tiled in white marble, and +the attendance is courteous. One does not look for a choice bill of +fare in Cuba, and therefore will not be disappointed on that score. +You will be charged Fifth Avenue prices, however, if you do not get +Fifth Avenue accommodations. If you have learned in your travels to +observe closely, to study men as well as localities, to enjoy Nature +in her ever-varying moods, and to delight in luxurious fruits, +flowers, and vegetation, you will find quite enough to occupy and +amuse the mind, and make you forget altogether the grosser senses of +appetite. + +Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of Cuba, and +is located well inland. The trade of the place, from the want of water +carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the number of +its inhabitants, which aggregates nearly thirty-one thousand. The +product of the neighborhood, to find means of export, must first make +its way twelve and a half leagues to Nuevitas, from whence, in return, +it receives its foreign supplies. The two places are now, however, +connected by a railroad. Puerto Principe is about one hundred and +fifty leagues from Havana. Its original location, as founded by +Velasquez in 1514, was at Nuevitas, but the inhabitants, when the +place was feeble in numbers, were forced to remove from the coast to +avoid the fierce incursions of the pirates, as did the people of +Trinidad, who removed from the harbor of Casilda. + +Cardenas is situated a hundred and twenty miles from Havana on the +north coast, and is the youngest town of note in Cuba, having been +founded so late as 1827. It has a population of between four and five +thousand. Its prosperity is mostly owing to the great fertility of the +land by which it is surrounded. It is called the American city, +because of the large number of Americans doing business here, and also +because the English language is so universally spoken by the people +who reside in the place. The Plaza contains an excellent marble statue +of Columbus, and is tastefully ornamented with tropical verdure. In +the harbor of Cardenas is seen one of those curious springs of fresh +water which bubble up beneath the salt sea. The city is the centre of +a sugar-producing district, and a considerable portion of the sugar +crop of the vicinity of Havana is also shipped from this port to +America. It is connected with both the metropolis and Matanzas by +rail, and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary +time for doing so. + +Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island, +are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of +it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable +timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might, +with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone, +which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of +the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture +are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never +be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have +not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are +passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the +Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the +purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well +as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything +practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. + + +Havana is a thoroughly representative city,--Cuban and nothing else. +Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being +the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been +reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with +its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall +sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the +harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the +Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city +side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind +the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of +Spain,--the banner of blood and gold. So many and strong +fortifications show how important the home government regard the +place. + +The harbor or bay is shaped like one's outspread hand, with the wrist +for an entrance, and is populous with the ships of all nations. It +presents at all times a scene of great maritime activity. Besides the +national ships of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers +from Europe and America are coming and going daily, also coasting +steamers from the eastern and southern shores of the island, added to +regular lines for Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea. The +large ferry steamers plying constantly between the city and the Regla +shore, the fleet of little sailing boats, foreign yachts, and +rowboats, glancing in the burning sunlight, create a scene of great +maritime interest. + +The city presents a large extent of public buildings, cathedrals, +antique and venerable churches. It has been declared in its prosperity +to be the richest place for its number of square miles in the world, +but this cannot be said of it at the present time. There is nothing +grand in its appearance as one enters the harbor and comes to anchor, +though Baron Humboldt pronounced it the gayest and most picturesque +sight in America. Its multitude of churches, domes, and steeples are +not architecturally remarkable, and are dominated by the colossal +prison near the shore. This immense quadrangular edifice flanks the +Punta, and is designed to contain five thousand prisoners at a time. +The low hills which make up the distant background are not +sufficiently high to add much to the general effect. The few palm +trees which catch the eye here and there give an Oriental aspect to +the scene, quite in harmony with the atmospheric tone of intense +sunshine. Unlike Santiago or Matanzas, neither the city nor its +immediate environs is elevated, so that the whole impression is that +of flatness, requiring some strength of background to form a complete +picture. The martial appearance of the Moro and the Cabanas, +bristling with cannon, is the most vivid effect of the scene, taken as +a whole. It might be a portion of continental Spain broken away from +European moorings, and floated hither to find anchorage in the +Caribbean Sea. One is also reminded of Malta, in the farther +Mediterranean, and yet the city of Valetta, bright, sunny, and +elevated, is quite unlike Havana, though Fortress St. Angelo overlooks +and guards the place as the Moro does this tropical harbor, and Cuba +is the Italy of America. + +The waters of the harbor, admittedly one of the finest in the world, +are most of the time extremely dirty. Many years ago a canal was +commenced which was designed to create a flowage calculated to keep +the harbor clear of the constantly accumulating filth, but it was +never finished, and there remains an evidence of Spanish inefficiency, +while the harbor continues to be a vast cesspool. It would be supposed +that in a fever-haunted region, great attention would be bestowed upon +the matter of drainage, but this is not the case in Havana, or other +cities of the island. Most of the effort made in this direction is +surface drainage, the liquid thus exposed quickly evaporating in the +hot sunshine, or being partially absorbed by the soil over which it +passes. + +Havana contains numerous institutions of learning: a Royal University, +founded in 1733, a medical and law school, and chairs of all the +natural sciences. In spite of their liberal purposes and capabilities, +however, there is a blight hanging over them. Pupils enlist cautiously +and reluctantly. Among other schools there is a Royal Seminary for +girls, scarcely more than a name, a free school of sculpture and +painting, and a mercantile school, with a few private institutions of +learning. There is a fairly good museum of natural history, and just +outside the city a botanical garden. Still the means of education are +very limited in Cuba, an evidence of which is the fact that so many of +her youth of both sexes are sent to this country for educational +purposes. An order was at one time issued by the government +prohibiting this, but its arbitrary nature was so very outrageous, +even for a Spanish government, that it was permitted to become a dead +letter. What are called free schools, as we use the term, are not +known in the island; the facilities for obtaining even the simplest +education are very poor. Boys and girls, so far as any attempt is made +to educate them, are taught separately, and really under the eye of +the Church. Priests and nuns are the agents, the former notoriously +making a cloak of their profession for vile and selfish purposes. If +we speak decidedly upon this subject, yet we do so with less emphasis +than do the Cubans. The girls are taught embroidery and etiquette, +considered to be the chief and about the only things necessary for +them to know. These young girls are women at the age of thirteen or +fourteen, and frequently mothers of families before they are twenty. +Of course they fade early. In domestic life the husband is literally +lord and master, the wife, ostensibly at least, is all obedience. +There is no woman's rights association on the island, nor even a +Dorcas society. While young and unmarried, the ladies are strict +adherents to all the conventionalities of Spanish etiquette, which is +of the most exacting character, but after marriage the sex is perhaps +as French as the Parisians, and as gay as the Viennese, under the +stimulus of fast and fashionable society. + +The reason of the edict issued by the government forbidding parents +to send their children to this country for educational purposes was +obvious. The young Cubans during their residence here imbibed liberal +ideas as to our republican form of government, which they freely +promulgated and advocated on their return to their native island. Even +those who had been educated in France or England, and they were +numerous, readily sympathized with the pupils returned from America, +and became a dangerous element. Long before the first Lopez +expedition, these sons of planters and rich merchants had formed +themselves into a secret society, with the avowed purpose of freeing +Cuba sooner or later from the Spanish yoke. + +The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel, +after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall, +though the population has long since extended its dwellings and +business structures far into what was, half a century since, the +suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and +decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved +or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of +Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental +Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are +no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and +in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides +in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of +respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless +she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit, +etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes +seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a +portable seat, or a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble +floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette +says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle, +and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule. + +The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving +them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone +so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into +suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the +atmosphere. The façades of the town houses are nearly always covered +with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue, +harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will +strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system +observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy +as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon +the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors +give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the +broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two +full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad +verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house, +some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors +are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'être; namely, to absorb +the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of +the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of +vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object +stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities +which will strike the stranger. + +The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open +square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is +attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room, +chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family +vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common +by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second +story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family +chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends +round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems, +it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with +it. + +With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in +far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to look about for the +Alhambra. An air of rude grandeur reigns over these houses, the +architecture being Gothic and Saracenic. In the more ancient portions +of the town little picturesque balconies of iron or wood jut out from +the second-story windows, where the houses rise to the dignity of two +stories. From these balconies hang little naked children, like small +performers upon the trapeze, until the passer-by fears for their +lives. The travel in the narrow streets is regulated by law, and so +divided that only certain ones are used for vehicles going north, and +others for those traveling south. Thus, vehicles bound into the city +from the Paseo go by the way of Obispo Street, but must return by +O'Riley Street, so that no two ever meet in these narrow +thoroughfares,--a plan which might be advantageously adopted +elsewhere. + +The rooms of the houses are lofty and the floors stuccoed or tiled in +marble, while the walls and ceilings are frequently ornamented in +fresco, the excellence of the workmanship varying in accordance with +the owner's means. The most striking peculiarity of the town-house in +Cuba is the precaution taken to render it safe against sudden attack. +Every man's house is literally his castle here, each accessible window +being secured with stout iron bars, reaching from the top to the +bottom, while bullet-proof doors bar the entrance,--the whole +seriously suggestive of jails and lunatic asylums. No carpets are used +even in the parlors, though a long rug is sometimes placed between the +inevitable double row of rocking-chairs. The best floors are laid in +white marble and jasper. The great heat of the climate renders even +wooden floors quite insupportable. The visitor is apt to find his bed +rather unsatisfactory, it being formed by stretching a coarse canvas +upon a framework, with an upper and under sheet. Mattresses are not +used by the natives, who reject them as being too warm to sleep upon, +but the liberality evinced in the shape of mosquito netting is as +commendable as it is necessary. + +The public vehicle called a victoria is a sort of four-wheeled calash, +and it has entirely superseded the volante for city use. There are +thousands of them about the town, forming a collection of wretchedly +wornout carriages, drawn by horses in a like condition. The drivers +occupy an elevated seat, and are composed equally of whites and +negroes. The charge for a passage from point to point within the city +is forty cents in Cuban paper money, equal to sixteen cents of our +currency; three times that sum is charged if engaged for the hour. The +streets are in a very bad condition and sadly need repairing. The +roads leading out to the suburbs in every direction are full of deep +holes, and are badly gullied by the heavy rains. The streets, even +about the paseos, are so impregnated with filth, here and there, as to +be sickening to the senses of the passer-by. Once in three or four +weeks somebody is awakened to the exigency of the situation, and a +gang of men is put to work to cleanse the principal thoroughfares, but +this serves only a temporary purpose. We were told that the reason for +this neglect was that no one was regularly paid for work; even the +police had not received any pay for seven months, and many refused to +serve longer. The soldiery had not been paid their small stipend for +nearly a year, but enlisted men sent out from Spain, forming the army, +are more easily kept together and more amenable to discipline than any +civil body of officials could be. "With everybody and everything so +enormously taxed," we ventured to suggest to our informants, "there +should be no lack of pecuniary means wherewith to carry on all +departments of the government. Pray what becomes of all this money?" +The reply was, "Who can say?" with a significant shrug of the +shoulders. With all the exactions of the officials, and with the +collection of nearly thirty millions of dollars annually, but a moiety +finds its way into the national treasury. Peculation is reduced to a +science, and is practiced from the highest to the lowest official sent +out by the home government. "Spain has squeezed the orange nearly +dry," said a distinguished Cuban to us in Matanzas, "and a collapse is +inevitable. We are anxiously waiting to see it come; any change would +be for the better. We were long threatened with a war of races, if we +did not sustain Spanish rule in the island. That is, if we were not +loyal to the Madrid authorities, the slaves should be freed to prey +upon us. Blood would flow like water. The incendiary torch would be +placed in the hands of the negroes, and they should be incited to +burn, steal, and ravish! Cuba should be Spanish or African. There was +a time when this threat had great force, and its execution was indeed +to be dreaded; but that time is past, and no such fear now exists. The +slaves are being gradually freed, and are amalgamating with the rest +of the populace. The slow liberation of the blacks has accustomed them +to freedom, and any organized outrage from that source has ceased to +be feared." + +Why all the bells in Havana should be rung furiously and continuously +every morning about daylight, one cannot exactly understand. There +does not seem to be any concert of action in this awful conspiracy +against sleep; but the tumult thus brought about would certainly seem +to be sufficient to "wake the isle from its propriety." From every +square with its church, and every church with its towers, this +brazen-tongued clamor is relentlessly poured forth. In most Christian +lands one good bell is all-sufficient for a church steeple, but here +they have them in the plural, and all striving to excel each other at +the same moment. Of course no one is able to sleep amid such an +outburst of noise, or within the radius of a league. Bells and +mosquitoes are two of the prevailing nuisances of this thrice-sunny +city. Nor must we forget to add to these aggravations the ceaseless, +triumphant crowing of the game-cocks, the noisiest and most boastful +of birds, large numbers of which are kept by the citizens purely for +gambling purposes in the cock-pit. Besides these "professional" birds, +every nook and corner is filled with fowls kept for brooding purposes, +each bird family with its crower. + +We have said that the Cuban ladies rarely stir abroad except in a +vehicle, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are certainly +good housekeepers in this respect. While our ladies are busy sweeping +the city sidewalks with their trailing dresses, these wisely leave +that business to the gangs of criminals detailed from prison to fill +that office, with their limbs chained and a heavy ball attached to +preserve their equilibrium,--though we should qualify this remark by +saying that these condemned men, once so common upon the streets and +highways, were not seen during our late visit to Havana. It is, +perhaps, owing to the home-keeping habits of the ladies that the feet +of the Cuban señoritas are such marvels of smallness and delicacy, +seemingly made rather for ornament than for use. You catch a glimpse +of them as they step into their victorias, and perceive that they are +daintily shod in French slippers, the soles of which are scarcely more +substantial than brown paper. Their feet are made for ornament and for +dancing. Though they possess a roundness of form that leaves nothing +to be desired in symmetry of figure, still they are light as a +sylph,--so buoyant, clad in muslin and lace, that it would seem as if +a breeze might waft them away like a summer cloud. Passionately fond +of dancing, they tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their worship +of Terpsichore, stimulated by those Cuban airs which are at once so +sweet and so brilliant. + +There is a striking and endearing charm about the Cuban ladies, their +every motion being replete with a native grace. Every limb is elastic +and supple. Their voices are sweet and low, while the subdued tone of +their complexions is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black +eyes, that alternately swim in melting lustre, and sparkle in +expressive glances. If their comeliness matures, like the fruits of +their native clime, early and rapidly, it is sad to know that it also +fades prematurely. One looks in vain for that serene loveliness +combined with age which so frequently challenges our admiration at the +North. Their costume is never ostentatious, though often costly, and +sometimes a little too mixed or variegated when seen in public. At +home, however, nothing of this sort is observed. There the dress is +usually composed of the most delicate muslin, the finest linen, and +richest silks. We must admit that one rarely sees elsewhere such +contrasts in colors upon the person of the fair sex as are at times +encountered upon the Paseo. It would drive a French modiste wild to +see the proprieties so outraged. It requires all the proverbial beauty +of these señoras and señoritas to carry off respectably such +combinations as scarlet and yellow, blue and purple, orange and green; +but they do it by sheer force of their beautiful eyes and finely +rounded figures. It must be acknowledged that the element of native +refinement is too often wanting, and that the whole exhibition of the +sex is just a little prononcée. They have no intellectual resort, but +lead a life of decided ease and pleasure much too closely bordering +upon the sensuous, their forced idleness being in itself an incentive +to immorality and intrigue. The indifferent work they perform is +light and simple; a little sewing and embroidery, followed by the +siesta, divides the hours of the day. Those who can afford to keep +their victorias wait until nearly sunset for a drive, and then go to +respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the caballeros on the +paseos; afterwards to the Parque de Isabella II., to listen to the +military band, and then, perhaps, to join in the mazy dance. That +these ladies are capable of deep feeling and practical sympathy on +such occasions as would naturally draw these qualities forth, we know +by experience. When the patriot forces were poorly armed, with but +scant material, and ammunition was short, these fair patriots gave +freely of their most valuable jewels as a contribution to the cause of +liberty. + +A sad instance illustrative of this fact was told us by a resident of +Havana. The young ladies and matrons of a certain circle in the city, +at the commencement of the year 1872, had put their diamonds and +precious stones together to realize money for forwarding supplies to +the insurgents under Cespedes, who was then operating in the vicinity +of Santiago. The jewels were secretly intrusted to a brother of one of +the ladies, a young man who had just reached the age of twenty-two. +His part of the business was the most difficult to perform, but he +finally succeeded in realizing over four thousand dollars in gold for +the gems intrusted to him. Fortunately the money was at once forwarded +to the patriot leader through a safe and reliable channel. Hardly had +the business been accomplished to the satisfaction of all concerned +when the young Cuban was secretly denounced to the Governor-General as +a suspected person. The settings and jewels had all been disposed of +so as to be beyond recognition, and it is not known to this day how +the brother's complicity with his sisters and their friends was +divulged, but presumedly it was through the Jew pawnbrokers. The +brother was arrested and thrown into Moro Castle, where he was +subjected to the closest examination to find out his accomplices. +Loyal and affectionate, he could not be made to speak. He was finally +offered his freedom and permission to leave the island if he would +divulge all. The government reasoned that if they could make a witness +of him they would succeed in serving their own interest best, as by +sacrificing one prisoner they might gain knowledge of many disaffected +people whom they did not even suspect of disloyalty. One of the +sisters of the prisoner determined to assume the guilt, and declare +that her brother was the unknowing agent of her purpose; but when at +last satisfied that this would not free him, she reluctantly gave up +the design. The young Cuban maintained his silence. No publicity was +given to the matter. He was brought before a military tribunal--so +much is known. The sentence never publicly transpired. Like most +political prisoners who pass within the walls of Moro Castle, his fate +remains a secret. + +There are two sides to every picture; even light casts its shadow, and +we feel constrained to speak plainly. Social life in the island is +certainly at a very low ebb, and unblushing licentiousness prevails. +That there are many and noble exceptions only renders the opposite +fact the more prominent. This immorality is more particularly among +the home Spaniards, whose purpose it is to remain here long enough to +gain a certain amount of money, and then to return to the mother +country to enjoy it. They look upon all associations contracted here +as of a temporary character, and the matter of morality does not +affect them in the least. Domestic comforts are few, and, as we have +intimated, literature is hardly recognized. The almost entire absence +of books or reading matter of any sort is remarkable. A few daily and +weekly newspapers, under rigid censorship, supply all the taste for +letters. Married women seem to sink far below their husbands in +influence. The domestic affections are not cultivated; in short, home +to the average Cuban is only a place to sleep,--not of peaceful +enjoyment. His meals are rarely taken with his family, but all spare +hours are absorbed at the club. Domestic infidelity is prevalent, and +female virtue but little esteemed. Priest-craft and king-craft have +been the curse of both Spain and Cuba. Here, as in Italy, the +outrageous and thinly-disguised immorality of the priesthood poisons +many an otherwise unpolluted fount, and thus all classes are liable to +infection. Popery and slavery are both largely to be charged with the +low condition of morals, though the influence of the former has of +late years been much curtailed, both in Spain and in Cuba. The young +women are the slaves of local customs, as already intimated, and +cannot go abroad even to church without a duenna,--a fact which in +itself proves the debased standard of morals. The men appear to have +no religion at all, but the women very generally attend early mass and +go periodically to confessional. No one seems to think it strange for +a white man to have a colony of mulatto children, even though he be +also the father of a white family! Many have only the mulatto family, +and seem content. These are generally the home Spaniards, already +spoken of, and when their fortunes are secured they recklessly sever +all local ties and responsibilities and return to Spain. This is no +new thing, as there are many families in Cuba of fair position +socially, and often of considerable wealth, whose members are by the +right of classification quadroons. Miscegenation has greatly +complicated social matters, and in half a century, more or less, it +may produce a distinctive class, who will be better able to assert and +sustain their rights than those who have preceded them. + +The class of home Spaniards who have emigrated to Cuba has always been +of a questionable character. The description of them by Cervantes in +his time will apply in our own day with equal force. He says: "The +island is the refuge of the profligates of Spain, a sanctuary for +homicides, a skulking-place for gamblers and sharpers, and a +receptacle for women of free manners,--a place of delusion to many, of +amelioration to few." + +One peculiarity which is sure to strike the stranger unpleasantly, and +to which allusion has incidentally been made, whether in public or +private houses, in the stores or in the streets, is that the colored +children of both sexes, under eight and nine years of age, are +permitted to go about in a state of nudity. In the country, among the +Montero class, this custom also extends to the white children. The +colored men who labor in the streets and on the wharves wear only a +short pair of linen pantaloons, displaying a muscular development +which any white man might envy. The remarkable contrast in the +powerful frames of these dusky Africans and the puny Asiatic coolies +is extraordinary. On the plantations and small farms the slaves wear +but one garment, just sufficient for decency. The great heat when +exposed to the sun is the reason, probably, rather than any economical +idea. + +The populace of Havana is eminently a festive one. Men luxuriate in +the café, or spend their evenings in worse places. A brief period of +the morning only is given to business, the rest of the day and night +to melting lassitude, smoking, and luxurious ease. Evidences of +satiety, languor, and dullness, the weakened capacity for enjoyment, +are sadly conspicuous, the inevitable sequence of indolence and vice. +The arts and sciences seldom disturb the thoughts of such people. +Here, as in many European cities, Lazarus and Dives elbow each other, +and an Oriental confusion of quarters prevails. The pretentious +town-house is side by side with the humble quarters of the artisan, or +even the negro hut, about which swarm the naked juveniles of color, a +half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of +this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon +some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but +being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to +some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong +contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements +of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored +where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain +seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is +the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms +most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes, +ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though +there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people +of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most +hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance +of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were +told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and +hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was +obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true. + +Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to +improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us +state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found +where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta +fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh +from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by +much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It +is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of, +refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of +the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The +island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less +similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs. +Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative +properties. + +In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets +at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores, +workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the +master in his shirt-sleeves, surrounded by his family, clerks, and +all white employees, sitting in full sight at breakfast, generally in +the business room itself. The midday siesta, an hour later, if not a +necessity in this climate, is a universal custom. The shopkeeper, even +as he sits on duty, drops his head upon his arm and sleeps for an +hour, more or less. The negro and his master both succumb to the same +influence, catching their forty winks, while the ladies, if not +reclining, "lose themselves" with heads resting against the backs of +the universal rocking-chairs. One interior seen by the passer-by is as +like another as two peas. A Cuban's idea of a well-furnished +sitting-room is fully met by a dozen cane-bottom rocking-chairs, and a +few poor chromos on the walls. These rocking-chairs are ranged in two +even lines, reaching from the window to the rear of the room, with a +narrow woollen mat between them on the marble floor, each chair being +conspicuously flanked by a cuspidor. This parlor arrangement is so +nearly universal as to be absolutely ludicrous. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafés. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. + + +On no other occasion is the difference between the manners of a +Protestant and Catholic community so strongly marked as on the +Sabbath. In the former, a sober seriousness stamps the deportment of +the people, even when they are not engaged in devotional exercises; in +the latter, worldly pleasures and religious forms are pursued, as it +were, at the same time, or follow each other in incongruous +succession. We would not have the day made tedious, and it can only be +so to triflers; to the true Christian it will ever be characterized by +thoughtfulness and repose. The Parisian flies from the church to the +railway station to join some picnic excursion, or to assist at the +race-course, or he passes with a careless levity from St. Geneviève to +the dance booths of the Champs Elysées. In New Orleans, the Creole who +has just bent his knee before the altar repairs to the theatre to pass +the evening; and the Cuban goes from the absolution of the priest to +the hurly-burly of the bull-ring or the cock-pit. + +The influence of fifteen minutes in the church, if salutary, would +seem to be quickly dissipated by the attraction of the gaming-table +and the masked ball. Even the Sunday ceremonial of the Church is a +pageant: the splendid robes of the officiating priest, changed in the +course of the service like the costume of actors in a drama; the +music, to Protestant ears operatic and exciting; the clouds of incense +scattering their intoxicating perfumes; the chanting in a strange +tongue, unknown to the majority of the worshipers,--all tend to give +the Roman Catholic services a carnival character. Far be it from us, +however, to charge these congregations with an undue levity, or a lack +of sincerity. Many a lovely Creole kneels upon the marble floor +entirely estranged from the brilliant groups around her, and +apparently unconscious for the time of the admiration she excites. +There are many, no doubt, who look beyond the glittering symbols to +the great truths of the Being whom they are intended to typify. The +impression made by the Sabbath ceremonials of the Church strikes us as +evanescent, more pleasing to the fancy than informing to the +understanding. Still, if the Sabbath in Catholic countries is not +wholly devoted to religious observances, neither are the week days +wholly absorbed by business and by careless pleasures. The churches +are always open, silently but eloquently inviting to devotion, and it +is much to be able to step aside at any moment from the temptations, +business, and cares of life into an atmosphere of seclusion and +religion. The solemn quiet of an old cathedral on a week day is +impressive from its very contrast to the tumult outside. Within its +venerable walls the light seems chastened, as it falls through stained +panes and paints the images of Christian saints and martyrs on the +pavement of the aisles. A half unwilling reverence is apt to stimulate +us on such an occasion, however skeptical we may be. + +The Sabbath in Havana breaks upon the citizens amid the ringing of +bells, the firing of cannon from the forts, the noise of trumpets, and +the roll of the drum. It is no day of physical rest here, and the +mechanical trades are uninterrupted. It is the chosen period for the +military reviews, the masked ball, and the bull-fight. The stores are +open as usual, the same cries are heard on the streets, and the +lottery tickets are vended on every corner. The individuals who devote +themselves to this business are in numbers like an army with banners. +They rend the air with their cries, promising good luck to all +purchasers, while they flourish their scissors with one hand, and +thrust the sheet of printed numbers in your face with the other, ready +to cut any desired ticket or portion of a ticket. The day proves +equally propitious for the omnipresent organ-grinder and his +ludicrously-dressed little monkey, à la Napoleon; the Chinese peddler; +the orange and banana dealer; and the universal cigarette purveyor. +Still, the rough Montero from the country, with his long line of +loaded mules or ponies, respectfully raises his broad Panama with one +hand while he makes the sign of the cross with the other as he passes +the church door. The churches of Havana look very old and shabby +compared with those of peninsular Spain, where the splendor of church +ornamentation reaches its acme. + +In and about the commercial part of the town, the out-door gambler +forms a conspicuous feature of the Sabbath, seated upon a cloth spread +upon the ground, and armed with cards, dice, cups, and other +instruments. With voluble tongue and expressive pantomime urging the +passer-by to try his luck, he meets with varying success. Many who are +drawn into the net are adroitly permitted to win a little, and +afterwards to lose much. Sailors on shore for a day's liberty are +profitable game for these thimble-riggers, as they are called with us. +Both Spaniards and Creoles patronize them, and occasionally a negro +tries his luck with a trifle. In open squares, or at the intersection +of several streets, one sometimes sees a carpet spread upon the +ground, upon which an athlete accompanied by a couple of expert boys, +dressed in high-colored tights ornamented with spangles, diverts the +throng by exhibiting gymnastics. At the close of the performance, a +young girl in a fancy dress and with long, flowing hair passes among +the spectators and gathers a few shillings. Not far away is observed +Punch and Judy in the height of a successful quarrel to the music of a +harp and a violin. The automatic contestants pound and pommel each +other after the conventional fashion. + +The city abounds in well-arranged squares, often ornamented by the +royal palm, always a figure of majesty and beauty, with here and there +a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel, +which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is +strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same +family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may +be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the +tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either +extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green, +contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light slate color. +It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a +bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as +though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts +great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found +dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups, +or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the +eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long +avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee +plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue. + +The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept +square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the +great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one +corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot +where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated +on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while. +The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime, +though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his +death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas +fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous +old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was +sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age +was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was +erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their +shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it +is opened but once a year to the public,--on the 16th of November, +which is the feast day of San Cristobal, when mass is celebrated in +honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of +Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings. + +This square is divided into neatly kept paths, and planted with +fragrant flowers, conspicuous among which were observed the white and +red camellias, while a grateful air of coolness was diffused by the +playing of a fountain into a broad basin, ornamented by a marble +statue of Ferdinand VII. The Creoles are passionately fond of music, +and this park used to be the headquarters of all out-door concerts. +Their favorite airs are waltzes and native dances, with not a little +of the Offenbach spirit in them. The guitar is the favorite domestic +musical instrument here, as in peninsular Spain, and both sexes are as +a rule clever performers upon it. Evening music in the open air is +always attractive, but nowhere is its influence more keenly felt than +under the mellow effulgence of tropical nights. Nowhere can we +conceive of a musical performance listened to with more relish and +appreciation than in the Plaza de Armas or the Parque de Isabella in +Havana. The latter place on the occasion of the concerts is the resort +of all classes. Here friends meet, flirtations are carried on, toilets +are displayed, and lovers woo. Even the humble classes are seen in +large numbers quietly strolling on the outer portions of the Plaza +listening to the fine performances of the band, and quietly enjoying +the music, "tamed and led by this enchantress still." The balmy nature +of the climate permits the ladies to dispense with shawls or wraps of +any sort; bonnets they very seldom wear, so that they sit in their +vehicles, or alighting appropriate the chairs arranged for the purpose +lining the broad central path, and thus appear in full evening dress, +bare arms, and necks supplemented by most elaborate coiffures. Even +the black lace mantilla, so commonly thrown over the head and +shoulders in the cities of Spain, is discarded of an evening on the +Plaza de Isabella. + +It was very amusing to sit here near the marble statue of the ex-queen +(which is, by the way, a wonderful likeness of Queen Victoria), where +the band, composed of sixty instrumental performers, discoursed +admirable music, and to observe young Cuba abroad, represented by boys +and girls of ten and twelve years dressed like young ladies and +gentlemen, sauntering arm in arm through the broad paths. These +children attend balls given by grown-up people, and are painted and +bedizened and decked out like their elders,--a singular fashion in +Cuban cities. It is true they not infrequently fall asleep on such +occasions in rocking-chairs and in odd corners, overcome by fatigue, +as the hours of festivity creep on towards the morning. Childhood is +ignored. Youth of a dozen years is introduced to the habits of people +thrice that age. We were sadly told, by one who is himself a parent, +that most children in the island but twelve years of age know the +delicate relations of the sexes as well as they would ever know them. +What else could be expected in an atmosphere so wretchedly immoral? +Small boys dressed in stovepipe hats and swallow-tail coats, and +little misses in long dresses with low necks look like mountebanks. + +Opposite the Plaza de Isabella, on the Tacon Theatre side of the +square, are situated the most fashionable cafés and restaurants of the +capital, where "life" commences at nine o'clock in the evening and +rages fast and furious until the small hours of the morning. In these +resorts, which are one blaze of light, every gas-burner reflected by +dozens of mirrors, the marble tables are all occupied by vivacious +patrons. Some are playing dominoes, some few are engaged at games of +chess, others are busy over checkers or cards, and all are gambling. +Even the lookers-on at the games freely stake their money on the +fortunes of the several players. The whole scene is one of noise and +confusion, fifty tongues giving voice at the same time. If a Spaniard +or Creole loses a dollar he gesticulates and argues about it as though +thousands were involved in the issue. These people represent all +classes. Some are in their shirt-sleeves, some roughly clothed, some +in full evening dress; Spaniards, Creoles, mulattoes, and occasionally +an unmistakable European. They drink often, but not strong liquors, +and one is surprised to hear coffee so often called for in place of +wine. The games are kept up until two or three o'clock in the morning. +Loitering about the doors beggars always form the shadow of the scene; +some lame, some blind, mostly negroes and coolies; now and then there +is seen among them an intelligent but sad white face, which looks +rather than utters its appeal. These are often the recipients of the +successful gambler's bounty. Now and again a lottery-ticket vender +comes in and makes the circuit of the tables, always disposing of more +or less chances, sometimes selling a whole ticket, price one doubloon, +or seventeen dollars. As we watch the scene a daintily dressed youth +with shining beaver lounges in, accompanied by one of the demi-monde +gayly dressed and sparkling with jewelry which betrays her want of +modesty. She is of the true Andalusian type, olive complexion, +coal-black hair with eyes to match, and long dark lashes; petite in +figure and youthful, but aged in experience. Bonnetless, her luxuriant +hair is set high upon her head, held by a square tortoise-shell comb, +and carelessly thrown off her forehead with a parting on one side. Be +sure some sad story underlies her career. She is of just that gypsy +cast that painters love to delineate. They sit down at a side table +and order ices, cake, and champagne. These are consumed amid jests and +laughter, the spurious champagne, at a fabulous cost, is drunk +merrily, the hours creep on, and the couple retire to give place to +others, after having furnished a picture of the fast, false life of +these brilliant, but dissipated haunts. + +Some of these cafés are more exclusive than others, where respectable +ladies and gentlemen can retire after the band has ceased its +performance, and enjoy the cooling influence of an ice. The Louvre, +just opposite the Plaza de Isabella and adjoining the Tacon Theatre, +is one of such. These establishments couple with their current evening +business that of the manufacture of choice preserves for domestic use +and also for export, the fruits of the island supplying the basis for +nearly a hundred varieties of fruit preserves, which find large sales +in our Northern cities and in Europe. + +In carnival week these cafés do an immense business; it is the harvest +of their year. People who can hardly afford three meals a day pinch +themselves and suffer much self-denial that they may have money to +spend in carnival week. The public masquerade balls, which then take +place, allure all classes. The celebrations of the occasion culminate +in a grand public masquerade ball given in the Tacon Theatre. The +floor of the parquette is temporarily raised to a level with the +boxes and the stage, the entire floor or lower part of the house being +converted into a grand ball-room. The boxes and galleries are thrown +open free to the public. The music, furnished by two military bands, +alternating in their performance, is kept up until broad daylight, +while the participants come and go as they please. A little after +midnight an organization called the comparzas comes upon the scene. It +is composed of men, boys, and women, all masked, who have practiced +for the occasion some emblematic dance to perform for their own and +the public amusement. The other dancers give way and the new-comers +perform, in harlequin fashion, their allotted parts. Towards morning a +large paper globe is suspended from the ceiling and lowered to within +a certain height from the floor. Blindfolded volunteers of both sexes, +furnished with sticks, are permitted to walk towards and try to hit +it. Scores fail, others just graze the globe of paper, all amid loud +laughter from the spectators. Finally some one hits the globe full and +fair, bringing down the contents amid vociferous applause. Then +commences a general scramble for the contents, consisting of bonbons, +toys, and fancy trinkets. + +The celebrated Tacon Theatre faces the Paseo de Isabella, and is built +on the corner of San Rafael Street. It is a capacious structure, but +extremely plain and unimpressive in its exterior appearance. It has +five tiers of boxes and a spacious parquette, the latter furnished +with separate arm-chair seats for six hundred persons. The entire +seating capacity of the house is a trifle over three thousand, and the +auditorium is of the horseshoe shape. The lattice-work finish before +the boxes is very light and graceful in effect, ornamented with gilt, +and so open as to display the dresses and pretty feet of the fair +occupants to the best advantage. The frescos are in good style, and +the ornamentation, without being excessive, is in excellent and +harmonious taste. A large, magnificent glass chandelier, lighted with +gas, and numerous smaller ones extending from the boxes give a +brilliant light to this elegant house, which is one of the largest +theatres in the world. The scene is a remarkable one when tier upon +tier is filled with gayly dressed ladies, powdered and rouged as Cuban +women are apt to be, in the most liberal manner. The parquette is +reserved for gentlemen, and when the audience is assembled forms a +striking contrast to the rest of the house, as they always appear in +dark evening dress, and between the acts put on their tall black +beaver hats. These audiences have their own special modes of +exhibiting appreciation or applause, when captivated by a prima +donna's or a danseuse's efforts to please them. At favorable moments +during the performance the artist is showered with bouquets; white +doves are set free from the boxes, bearing laudatory verses fastened +to their wings; gentlemen throw their hats upon the stage, and +sometimes even purses weighted with gold. Tiny balloons are started +with long streamers of colored ribbon attached; jewelry in the shape +of bracelets and rings is conveyed over the footlights; in short, +these Spaniards are sometimes extraordinarily demonstrative. A furore +has sometimes cost these caballeros large sums of money. But we are +describing the past rather than the immediate present, for the +scarcity of pecuniary means has put an end to nearly all such +extravagances. The Havanese are peculiar in their tastes. While Miss +Adelaide Phillips was more than once the recipient of extravagant +favors on the Tacon Theatre stage, Jenny Lind did not pay her +professional expenses when she sang there. + +The military are always in attendance in large numbers at the theatre, +as at all public gatherings in Cuba, their only perceptible use being +to stare the ladies out of countenance and to obstruct the +passageways. In front of the main entrance to the theatre is an open +area decorated with tropical plants and trees, where a group of the +crimson hibiscus was observed, presenting a gorgeous effect of color. +The other places of amusement in Havana, of a dramatic character, are +the Payret Theatre, very large, seating twenty-five hundred; the +Albisu Theatre, and the Circo, Teatro de Jané, this latter combining a +theatre with a circus. + +As a place of amusement and instruction combined we should be remiss +not to mention the Casino of Havana. It is carried on by an organized +society formed on the basis of a club and has, we were told, over one +hundred members. The Casino occupies a fine building, fronting Obispo +Street, and close to the parks. It supports a free school for teaching +the English and French languages and drawing. After some fifteen years +of successful existence the society has become one of the institutions +of the metropolis. The halls and apartments are large, lofty, and very +finely furnished with all domestic conveniences except sleeping +accommodations. Here dramatic entertainments are frequently given, +mostly by amateurs, and generally for charitable purposes. The main +ball-room of the Casino is handsomely decorated and is the scene of +occasional masked balls, after the true Madrid style, where many an +intrigue is consummated which does not always end without bloodshed. +It is the favorite resort of all the high officials of Havana, who +have within their possible reach too few social entertainments not to +make the most of those presented at the Casino. During the carnival +season the ball-room of the establishment is said to present, in the +form of nightly masquerade balls, scenes which for gayety and +picturesqueness cannot be surpassed in Europe. + +Old Havana is certainly eclipsed by the really fine broad streets and +the palatial buildings which have sprung up outside of her ancient +limits. In point of picturesqueness the old town has precedence. Near +where the Indian Paseo and the Plaza de Isabella II. join each other, +a portion of the old wall which once surrounded the city is still to +be seen, with its crumbling bastions and ivy-grown débris. Sufficient +is left to show that the wall was a remarkably substantial one and an +efficient defense against the modes of attack prevalent when it was +built. The Indian Paseo commences opposite the Campo de Marte, and is +so called from the large marble fountain dedicated to that aboriginal +idea. This elaborate structure was executed in Italy at large expense. +Its principal figure is an Indian maiden, allegorical of Havana, +supporting a shield bearing the arms of the city. These paseos are +admirably ornamented on either side by a continuous line of laurel +trees whose thick foliage gives admirable shade. On either side of the +long central promenade the well-paved streets are broad and handsome, +being ornamented with high buildings of a domestic and public +character and of good architectural effect. The Matanzas & Havana +Railroad depot is situated just opposite one end of the Campo de +Marte, its freight yard extending also along the Paseo for an entire +block, detracing much from the fine effect of the broad street. The +trains and noisy engines being thus brought into the midst of the +dwellings and business centre of the city render it very +objectionable. The guests of the Telegrafo Hotel can bear testimony as +to the nuisance thus created, being awakened at all sorts of +unreasonable hours by the engine bell and steam whistle. + +The Botanical Garden is situated about a mile from the city proper, +adjoining which are the attractive grounds of the Governor General's +country-house. Both are open to the public and richly repay a visit. +The Governor's grounds are shaded by a great variety of tropical trees +and flowers. Here was seen what is called the water rose, pink in +color and nearly double the size of our pond lily, recalling the +Egyptian lotus, to which family it would seem it must belong. +Altogether, the place is a wilderness of blossoms, composed of exotic +and native flowers. There is also an interesting aviary to be seen +here, and a small artificial lake is covered with curious web-footed +birds and brilliant-feathered ducks. The gardens seem to be neglected, +but they are very lovely in their native luxuriance. Dead wood and +decaying leaves are always a concomitant of such gardens in the low +latitudes. If the roses and heliotropes are in full bloom, some other +flowering shrub alongside is taking its rest and looks rusty, so that +the whole garden is never in a glow of beauty at one time, as is the +case with us in June. The noble alley of palms, the great variety of +trees, blossoms, and shrubs, the music of the fountains, and the +tropical flavor permeating everything were all in the harmony of +languid beauty. The coral tree, that lovely freak of vegetation, was +in bloom, its small but graceful stem, seven or eight feet in height, +being topped above the gracefully pendent leaves with a bit of +vegetable coral of deepest red, and in the form of the sea growth from +which it takes its name. The star cactus was in full flower, the +scarlet buds starting out from the flat surface of the thick leaves +after a queer and original fashion. The bread-fruit tree, with its +large, melon-like product, hung heavy with the nourishing esculent. +The Carolina tree, with gorgeous blossoms like military pompons, +blazed here and there, overshadowing the large, pure white, and +beautiful campanile, with hanging flowers, like metallic bells, after +which the plant is named. Here too was a great variety of the scarlet +hibiscus and the garland of night (galan de noche), which grows like a +young palm to eight or nine feet, throwing out from the centre-of its +drooping foliage a cluster of brown blossoms tipped with white, shaped +like a mammoth bunch of grapes. It blooms at night and is fragrant +only by moon and starlight. Cuba presents an inexhaustible field for +the botanist, and in its wilder portions recalls the island of Ceylon +in the Indian Ocean. As Ceylon is called the pearl of India so is Cuba +the pearl of the Antilles. + +To reach the Governor's Garden one turns west from the Campo de Marte +and takes the Calzada de la Reina, which followed about a mile in a +straight line becomes the Paseo de Tacon, really but a continuation of +the former street, commencing at the statue of Carlos III., a colossal +monument placed in the middle of the broad driveway. This Paseo forms +the favorite evening drive of the citizens, where the ladies in +victorias and the gentlemen either as equestrians or on foot pass and +repass each other, gayly saluting, the ladies with a coquettish +flourish of the fan, and the gentlemen with a peculiar wave of the +hand. It is in fact the Champs Elysées of Havana, but the road is +sadly out of repair and as dusty as an ash-pit. + +The Alameda--every large Spanish city has a spot so designated--skirts +the shore of the harbor on the city side, near the south end of +Oficios Street, and is a favorite resort for promenaders at the +evening hour. Here a refreshing coolness is breathed from off the sea. +This Alameda de Paula might be a continuation of the Neapolitan +Chiaja. With characteristics quite different, still these shores +constantly remind one of the Mediterranean, Sorrento, Amalfi, and +Capri, recalling the shadows which daily creep up the heights of San +Elmo and disappear with the setting sun behind the orange groves. +Sometimes it would seem to be the grand problem of humanity, why the +loveliest regions of the earth and the softest climates should be +apportioned to the share of slaves and despots. + +The cathedral of Havana, on Empedrado Street, is a structure of much +interest, its rude pillared front of defaced and moss-grown stone +plainly telling of the wear of time. The two lofty towers are hung +with many bells, which daily call with their brazen tongues to matins +and vespers. Some of these bells are very ancient. The church is not +elaborately ornamented,--it rather strikes one with its unusual +plainness. It contains a few oil paintings of moderate merit, and also +the tomb where the ashes of Columbus so long reposed. All that is +visible of this tomb, which is on the right of the altar, is a marble +tablet six or eight feet square, upon which, in high relief, is a bust +of the great discoverer. As a work of art, the less said of this +effigy the better. Beneath the image is an inscription sufficiently +bombastic and Spanish in tone, but therein we observed no mention was +made of the chains and imprisonment with which an ungrateful country +rewarded this man whom history so delights to honor. It will be +remembered that Columbus died at Valladolid in 1506. In 1513 his +remains were transferred to Seville, preparatory to their being sent, +as desired in his will, to St. Domingo, to which city they were +removed in 1536. When that island was ceded to France, they were +brought with great pomp to Havana in a national ship (January 15, +1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high +authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and +are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this +association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet +thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty +dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The +high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry +mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The +stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was +annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was +observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend +in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population +present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from +curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de +la Concepcion. + +All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains +the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have +seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that +this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up +into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive +view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before +a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here +in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the +practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call +your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions: +one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another +is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these +bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has +caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a +danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a +victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as +merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many +years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to +vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such +things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the +sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for +priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgetting many saintly +garments wrought in gold and studded with precious stones. Perhaps you +will think, as we did, that such things are but tinsel before Him whom +they are supposed to honor. Such dazzling paraphernalia may attract +the ignorant or the thoughtless--may make followers, but not +converts. Conviction is not the child of fancy, but of judgment. + +In an anteroom at the left of the altar there are also to be seen +utensils of silver and gold, with many costly ornaments for use before +the altar on special church occasions. One of these is a triumph of +delicate workmanship and of the silversmith's art. It is in the form +of a Gothic tower of very elaborate and artistic design, composed of +solid silver, ornamented with gold and precious stones. One regards +this thoroughly useless disposal of money with the thought that the +articles were better sold and the proceeds bestowed in worthy charity. +It would then fulfill a far more Christian purpose than that of adding +glitter to church pomp and ceremony. + +To witness the observance of Holy Week, commencing with Palm Sunday, +in Havana, one would be impressed with a conviction that the people +were at heart devout Roman Catholics. The occasion is solemnly +observed. On Sunday the old cathedral is crowded by people who come to +obtain branches of holy palm from the priests. The old bell-ringer +becomes an important agent of the ceremonies, and the solemn spirit of +the occasion seems to imbue all classes of the Havanese. On Holy +Thursday, just before midday, the bells of all the churches cease to +ring, and every vehicle in the city disappears from the streets as if +by magic. The garrison marches through the principal thoroughfares in +silence, with measured tread and arms reversed. The national flags +upon the shipping, and on all the forts from Moro to the Castillo del +Principe, are displayed at half mast. The cathedral and the churches +are draped in mourning. On Friday, the effigy of our Saviour's body +is carried in solemn procession, men and priests marching with heads +uncovered, and devout women of the common classes, especially colored +ones, kneeling in the street as it passes. On Saturday, at ten o'clock +in the morning, the old bell-ringer suddenly starts a merry peal from +the cathedral tower--the bells of La Merced, San Agustin, Santa Clara, +and Santa Cataline follow; the town awakens to gayety as from a +lethargic sleep. Whites and negroes rush through the streets like mad; +vehicles of all sorts again make their appearance, the forts and +national ships are dressed in holiday flags, and the town is shaken +with reiterated salutes from a hundred cannons. + +Military mass, as performed within the cathedral, seemed more like a +theatrical show than a solemn religious service. On the occasion +referred to, the congregation as usual was sparse, and consisted +almost exclusively of women, who seem to do penance for both sexes in +Cuba. The military band which led the column of infantry marched in, +playing a quick operatic air, deploying to one side for the soldiery +to pass towards the altar. The time-keeping steps of the soldiery upon +the marble floor mingled with drum, fife, and organ. Through all this, +one caught now and then the monotonous voice of a shaven-headed +priest, reciting his prescribed part at the altar, kneeling and +reading at intervals. The busy censer boys in white gowns; the flaring +candles casting long shadows athwart the high altar; the files of +soldiers kneeling and rising at the tap of the drum; the atmosphere +clouded with the fumes of burning incense,--all combined to make up a +singularly dramatic picture. The gross mummery witnessed at the temple +of Buddha in Ceylon differed only in form, scarcely in degree. + +The wealth of the churches of the monks in the island was formerly +proverbial, but of late the rich perquisites which the priests were so +long permitted to extort from the credulous public have been diverted +so as to flow into the coffers of the crown. A military depotism +brooks no rival in authority. The priests at one time possessed large +tracts of land in Cuba, and their revenue therefrom, especially when +they were improved as sugar plantations, was very large. These lands +have all been confiscated by the government, and with the loss of +their property the power of the monks has declined and their numbers +have also diminished. Still the liberty of public worship is denied to +all save Roman Catholics. Since the suppression of monastic +institutions, some of the convents have been utilized for hospitals, +government storehouses, and other public offices in Havana. There are +some manifest incongruities that suggest themselves as existing +between Church and state upon the island. For instance, the Church +recognizes the unity of all races and even permits marriage between +all, but here steps in the civil law of Cuba and prohibits marriage +between white persons and those having any taint of negro blood. In +consequence of this,--nature always asserting herself regardless of +conventionalities,--a quasi family arrangement often exists between +white men and mulatto or quadroon women, whereby the children are +recognized as legitimate. But should either party come under the +discipline of the Church, the relationship must terminate. Again, as +is perfectly well known, many of the priests, under a thin disguise, +lead domestic lives, where a family of children exist under the care +of a single mother, who is debarred from the honest name of wife by +the laws of celibacy which are stringently held as the inexorable +rule of the Church. + +If the priesthood keep from cock-fighting and gambling, says a late +writer on the subject, notwithstanding many other departures from +propriety, they are considered respectable. Can there be any wonder +that the masses of men in Cuba recognize no religious obligations, +since none save Roman Catholicism is tolerated, and that, through its +priesthood, is so disgraced? + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Array. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortége. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. + + +The Inquisition, as it regards the Church of Rome, is suppressed in +Cuba, but the political inquisition, as exercised by the government on +the island, is even more diabolical than that of the former Jesuitical +organization, because it is more secret in its murderous deeds, not +one half of the horrors of which will ever be publicly known. Moro +Castle is full of political prisoners, who are thinned out by +executions, starvation, and hardships generally, from day to day, only +to make room for fresh victims. He who enters those grim portals +leaves all hope behind. Political trials there are none, but of +political arrests there are endless numbers. The life of every citizen +is at the disposal of the Captain-General. If a respectable person is +arrested, as one suspected of animosity towards the government, he +simply disappears. His friends dare not press his defense, or inquire +too closely as to his case, lest they, too, should be incarcerated on +suspicion, never again to regain their liberty. A maxim of Spanish law +is that every accused person is guilty, until he proves himself +innocent! As a large majority of the people, in their hearts, +sympathize with the revolutionists, and are revolutionists in secret, +they are liable to say or to do some trifling thing unwittingly, upon +which the lynx-eyed officials seize as evidence of guilt, and their +arrest follows. What fearful stories the dungeons of Moro could reveal +had they tongue with which to speak! + +Obispo and O'Riley streets are the principal shopping thoroughfares of +the metropolis, containing many fine stores for the sale of dry goods, +millinery, china, glassware, and jewelry. These shops are generally +quite open in front. Standing at the end, and looking along either of +these thoroughfares, one gets a curious perspective view. The +party-colored awnings often stretch entirely across the narrow +streets, reminding one of a similar effect in Canton, where straw +matting takes the place of canvas, forming a sort of open marquee. The +queer names adopted for the stores never fail to afford a theme of +amusement; the drawling cries of the fruit-dealers and peripatetic +tradesmen giving an added interest. The merchant in Havana does not +designate his establishment by placing his own name upon his sign, but +adopts some fancy title, such as Diana, America, The Star, Virtue, The +Golden Lion, and so on, which titles are paraded in gilt letters over +the door. The Spanish people are always prodigal in names, making the +sun, moon and stars, gods and goddesses, all do duty in designating +their stores, villas, and plantations. Nearly every town on the island +is named after some apostle or saint. The tradesmen are thorough Jews +in their style of dealing with the public, and no one thinks of paying +them the price which they first demand for an article. It is their +practice in naming a price to make allowance for reduction; they +expect to be bargained with, or cheapened at least one half. The +ladies commonly make their purchases late in the afternoon or evening, +stopping in their victorias at the doors of the shops, from whence the +articles they desire are brought by the shopmen and deftly displayed +on the street. When lighted up at night the stores are really +brilliant and attractive, presenting quite a holiday appearance; but +customers are sadly wanting in these days of business depression. "I +have been compelled to dismiss my salesmen and do their work myself," +said a dry-goods merchant to us; "we dare not give credit, and few +persons have cash to spare in these times." + +One of the principal causes of the present bankrupt condition of the +people of Cuba is the critical period of transition through which the +island is passing from slave to free labor; besides which there is the +exhaustion consequent upon years of civil war and a succession of bad +crops. Labor is becoming dearer and sugar cheaper. The Spaniards are +slow to adopt labor-saving machinery, or new ideas of any sort, and +those not already supplied have neither capital nor credit with which +to procure the new machinery for sugar-making. The enormous production +of European beet-sugar has cut off all Continental demand for their +staple, and has in some degree superseded its use in America. +Brigandage is on the increase, as poverty and want of legitimate +employment prevail. Money, when it can be borrowed at all, is at a +ruinous interest. The army of office-holders still manage to extort +considerable sums in the aggregate from the people, under the guise of +necessary taxes. Financial ruin stares all in the face. It is a sad +thing to say, but only too true, that among people heretofore +considered above suspicion in commercial transactions great dishonesty +prevails, pecuniary distress and lack of credit driving men, once in +good standing, to defraud their creditors at home and abroad. Estates +and plantations are not only heavily mortgaged, but the prospective +crops are in the same condition, in many cases. In former prosperous +years the planters have been lavish spenders of money, ever ready to +use their credit to the full extent, until their interest account has +consumed their principal. The expensive habits acquired under the +promptings of large profits and a sure market are difficult to +overcome, and people who never anticipated the present state of +affairs are now forced to exercise economy and self-denial. Cuban +planters and their families, in years past, came to our most +fashionable watering-places decked with jewels of almost fabulous +value, and they lavished gold like water; most of these individuals +considered themselves to be rich beyond the chances of fortune. Their +profuse style of living was a source of envy; their liberality to +landlords and to servants was demoralizing, as it regarded the tariff +of hotel prices for more steady-going people. Thousands of human +beings were yielding their enforced labor to fill these spendthrifts' +purses, and sugar was king. The picture has its reverse. Civil war has +supervened, the slaves are being freed, sugar is no longer a bonanza, +and the rich man of yesterday is the bankrupt of to-day. Truly riches +have wings. + +Spain keeps a large and effective force of soldiers upon the +island,--an army out of all proportion in numbers to the territory or +people she holds in subjection. The present military force must +number some forty thousand, rank and file, and the civil department +fully equals the army in number; and all are home Spaniards. A large +portion of the military are kept in the eastern department of the +island, which is and has ever been the locality where revolutionary +outbreaks occur. Eighty per cent, of all the soldiers ever sent to +Cuba have perished there! It is as Castelar once pronounced the island +to be, in the Cortes at Madrid, namely, the Campo Santo of the Spanish +army. Exposure, a miserable commissariat, the climate, and insurgent +bullets combine to thin the ranks of the army like a raging +pestilence. We were informed by a responsible party that twenty-five +per cent, of the newly-arrived soldiers died in their first year, +during what is called their acclimation. Foreigners who visit Cuba for +business or pleasure do so at the most favorable season; they are not +subjected to hardships nor exposed in malarial districts. The +soldiers, on the contrary, are sent indiscriminately into the fever +districts at the worst season, besides being called upon to endure +hardships, all the time, which predispose them to fatal diseases. + +There are known to be organized juntas of revolutionists at Key West, +Florida, in Hayti, and also in New York city, whose designs upon the +Cuban government keep the authorities on the island in a state of +chronic alarm. A revolutionary spirit is felt to be all the while +smouldering in the hearts of this oppressed people, and hence the +tyrannous espionage, and the cruelty exercised towards suspected +persons. So enormous are the expenses, military and civil, which are +required to sustain the government, under these circumstances, that +Cuba to-day, notwithstanding the heavy taxes extorted from her +populace, is an annual expense to the throne. Formerly the snug sum of +seven or eight millions of dollars was the yearly contribution which +the island made to the royal treasury, after paying local army, navy, +and civil expenses. This handsome sum was over and above the pickings +and stealings of the venal officials. As to the Cuban sympathizers at +Key West, Florida, a recent visit to that port, just opposite to the +island on the hither side of the Gulf Stream, showed us that they +formed a large proportion of the population of that thrifty American +town. On a day which was the anniversary of some patriotic occasion +relating to the island, hundreds of Cuban flags (the single star of +free Cuba) were seen displayed upon the dwellings and public places. +There are believed to be two thousand Creoles residing here, who have +either been expelled from the island for political reasons, or who +have escaped from thence as suspected patriots. These people are very +generally engaged in the manufacture of the well-known Key West +cigars. + +The Spanish army is governed with an iron hand. Military law knows no +mercy, and it is always more or less a lapse into barbarism where it +takes precedence. The ranks are filled by conscription in Spain, and +when the men first arrive at Havana they are the rawest recruits +imaginable. Soldiers who have been doing garrison duty are sent inland +to fill the decimated ranks of various stations, and room is thus made +for the recruits, who are at once put to work, enduring a course of +severe discipline and drill. They land from the transports, many of +them, hatless, barefooted, and in a filthy condition, with scarcely a +whole garment among a regiment of them. The writer could hardly +believe, on witnessing the scene, that they were not a set of +criminals being transported for penal servitude. Fatigue dresses no +doubt awaited them at the barracks, and after a while they would be +served with a cheap uniform, coarse shoes, and straw hats. They are +like sheep being driven to the shambles, and are quite as helpless. +Twenty-five per cent, and upwards of these recruits are usually under +the sod before the close of a twelve-month! + +Sometimes the hardship they have to endure breeds rebellion among +them, but woe betide those who commit any overt act, or become leaders +of any organized attempt to obtain justice. The service requires +frequent victims as examples to enforce the rigid discipline. The +punishment by the garrote is a common resort. It is a machine +contrived to choke the victim to death without suspending him in the +air. At the same time it is fatal in another way, namely, by severing +the spinal column just below its connection with the brain. The +condemned man is placed upon a chair fixed on a platform, leaning his +head and neck back into a sort of iron yoke or frame prepared to +receive it. Here an iron collar is clasped about the throat. At the +appointed moment a screw is suddenly turned by the executioner, +stationed behind the condemned, and instantaneous death follows. This +would seem to be more merciful than hanging, whereby death is produced +by the lingering process of suffocation, to say nothing of the many +mishaps which so often occur upon the gallows. This mode of punishment +is looked upon by the army as a disgrace, and they much prefer the +legitimate death of a soldier, which is to fall by the bullets of his +comrades when condemned to die. + +The writer witnessed one of these military executions, early on a +clear April morning, which took place in the rear of the barracks near +La Punta. It was a trying experience, and recalled to mind the +execution of the mulatto poet and patriot, Valdez, which had occurred +a few years before in the Plaza at Matanzas. It was a sight to chill +the blood even under a tropical sun. A soldier of the line was to be +shot for some act of insubordination against the stringent rules of +the army, and that the punishment might prove a forcible example to +his comrades the battalion to which he belonged was drawn up on parade +to witness the cruel scene. The immediate file of twelve men to which +the victim had belonged were supplied with muskets by their officer, +and we were told that, according to custom, one musket was left +without ball, so that each one might hope that his was not the hand to +slay his former comrade. A sense of mercy would still lead them all to +aim faithfully, so that lingering pain might be avoided. + +The order was given: the bright morning sun shone like living fire +along the polished barrels of the guns, as the fatal muzzles all +ranged in point at the body of the condemned. "Fire!" said the +commanding officer. A quick, rattling report followed, accompanied by +a thin cloud of smoke, which was at once dispersed by the sea breeze, +showing the still upright form of the victim. Though wounded in many +places, no vital spot had been touched, nor did he fall until the +sergeant, at a sign from his officer, advanced with a reserved musket, +and quickly blew out his brains! His body was removed. The troops were +formed into column, the band struck up a lively air, and thus was a +human being launched into eternity. + +Few current matters strike the stranger as being more peculiar than +the Cuban milkman's mode of supplying the required aliment to his town +customers. He has no cart bearing shining cans, they in turn filled +with milk, or with what purports to be milk; his mode is direct, and +admits of no question as to purity. Driving his sober kine from door +to door, he deliberately milks then and there just the quantity +required by each customer, delivers it, and drives on to the next. The +patient animal becomes as familiar with the residences of her master's +customers as he is himself, and stops unbidden, at regular intervals, +before the proper doors, often followed by a pretty little calf, which +amuses itself by gazing enviously at the process, being prevented from +interfering by a leather muzzle. Sometimes the flow of milk is checked +by an effort of the animal herself, when she seems to realize that the +calf is not getting its share of nourishment. The driver then promptly +brings the calf to the mother's side, and removes the muzzle long +enough to give the little one a brief chance. The cow freely yields +her milk while the calf is close to her, and the milkman, muzzling the +calf, adroitly milks into his measure. The same mode is adopted in +India and the south of Spain. There are at least two good reasons for +delivering milk in hot climates after this fashion. First, there can +be no adulteration of the article; and second, it is sure to be fresh +and sweet. This last is a special desideratum in a climate where ice +is an expensive luxury, and the difficulty of keeping milk from +becoming acid is very great. The effect upon the cow is by no means +salutary, causing the animal to produce much less in quantity than +when milked clean at regularly fixed hours, as with us. Goats are +often driven about for the same purpose and used in the same manner. +It was a surprise not to see more of these animals in Cuba, a country +especially adapted to them. Cows thrive best upon grass, of which +there is comparatively little in the tropics,--vegetation runs to +larger development; but goats eat anything green, and do well nearly +anywhere. It is a singular fact that sheep transported to this climate +cease gradually to produce wool. After three or four generations they +grow only a simple covering, more like hair than wool, and resemble +goats rather than sheep. + +Glass is scarcely known in Cuban windows; the glazier has yet to make +his début in Havana. The most pretentious as well as the humblest of +the town-houses have the broad, high, projecting window, reaching from +floor to ceiling, secured only by heavy horizontal iron bars, +prison-like in effect, through which, as one passes along the narrow +streets, it is nearly impossible to avoid glancing in upon domestic +scenes that frequently exhibit the female portion of the family en +déshabillé. Sometimes a loose lace curtain intervenes, but even this +is unusual, the freest circulation of fresh air being quite necessary. +The eye penetrates the whole interior of domestic life, as at Yokohama +or Tokio. Indeed, the manners of the female occupants seem to court +this attention from without, coming freely as they do to the windows +to chat with passers-by. Once inside of these dwelling-houses there +are no doors, curtains alone shutting off the communication between +chambers, sitting-rooms, and corridors. These curtains, when not +looped up, are sufficient to keep out persons of the household or +strangers, it being the custom always to speak, in place of knocking, +before passing a curtain; but the little naked negro children, male +and female, creep under these curtains without restraint, while +parrots, pigeons, and fowls generally make common use of all nooks and +corners of the house. Doors might keep these out of one's room, but +curtains do not. The division walls between the apartments in private +houses, like those in the hotels, often reach but two thirds of the +way up to the walls, thus affording free circulation of air, but +rendering privacy impossible. One reason why the Cubans all possess +such broad expanded chests is doubtless owing to the fact that their +lungs find free action at all times. They live, as it were, in the +open air. The effect of this upon strangers is seen and felt, +producing a sense of physical exhilaration, fine spirits, and a good +appetite. It would be impossible to live in a dwelling-house built in +our close, secure style, if it were placed in the city of Havana. The +laundress takes possession of the roof of the house during the day, +but it is the place of social gathering at night, when the family and +their guests enjoy the sea-breeze which sweeps in from the Gulf of +Mexico. On a clear, bright moonlight night the effect is very striking +as one looks across the house-tops, nearly all being upon a level. +Many cheerful circles are gathered here and there, some dancing to the +notes of a guitar, some singing, and others engaged in quiet games. +Merry peals of laughter come from one direction and another, telling +of light and thoughtless hearts among the family groups. Occasionally +there is borne along the range of roofs the swelling but distant +strains of the military band playing in the Plaza de Isabella, while +the moon looks calmly down from a sky whose intensely blue vault is +only broken by stars. + +The cemetery, or Campo Santo, of Havana is situated about three miles +outside of the city. A high wall incloses the grounds, in which +oven-like niches are prepared for the reception of the coffins +containing the bodies of the wealthy residents, while the poor are +thrown into shallow graves, often several bodies together in a long +trench, negroes and whites, without a coffin of any sort. Upon them is +thrown quicklime to promote rapid decomposition. The cremation which +forms the mode of disposing of the bodies of the deceased as practiced +in India is far less objectionable. + +The funeral cortége is unique in Havana. The hearse, drawn by four +black horses, is gilded and decked like a car of Juggernaut, and +driven by a flunkey in a cocked hat covered with gold braid, a scarlet +coat alive with brass buttons and gilt ornaments, and top boots which, +as he sits, reach half-way to his chin. This individual flourishes a +whip like a fishing-pole, and is evidently very proud of his position. +Beside the hearse walk six hired mourners on either side, dressed in +black, with cocked hats and swallow-tail coats. Fifteen or twenty +victorias follow, containing only male mourners. The driver in +scarlet, the twelve swallow-tails in black, and the occupants of the +victorias each and all are smoking cigars as though their lives +depended upon the successful operation. And so the cortége files into +the Campo Santo. + +Not far from La Punta there is a structure, protected from the public +gaze by a high wall, where the slaves of either sex belonging to the +citizens of Havana are brought for punishment. Within are a series of +whipping-posts, to which these poor creatures are bound before +applying the lash to their bare bodies. The sight of this fiendish +procedure is cut off from the public, but more than one person has +told us of having heard the agonizing cries of the victims. And yet +there are people who will tell us these poor creatures are far better +off than when in their native country. One slave-owner said it was +necessary to make an example of some member of all large households of +slaves each month, in order to keep them under discipline! Another +said, "I never whip my slaves; it may be necessary upon a plantation, +but not in domestic circles in town. When they have incurred my +displeasure, they are deprived of some small creature comfort, or +denied certain liberties, which punishment seems to answer every +object." So it will be seen that all slave-holders are not cruel. Some +seem as judicious and reasonable as is possible under the miserable +system of slavery. + +Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of +the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in +what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits +of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded +the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron +fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides +was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square +pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north, +Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east +side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon. +His administration has been more praised and more censured than that +of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This Campo de +Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes +generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious +walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have +been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and +pleasure-ground. + +Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in +Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject, +doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general +reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel +Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to +be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being +opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke +English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed +the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars +per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table +fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish +was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one +desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather +than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as +being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but +little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously +offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in +summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary +rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in +peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of +Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who +have chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for +instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no +use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was +thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by +the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet +accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse. +There is the San Carlos Hotel, near the wharves, which is more of a +family than a travelers' resort; the Hotel Pasaje, in Prado Street, +quite central; Hotel Europe, in La Plaza de San Francisco; and Hotels +Central and Ingleterra: the last two are opposite the Plaza de +Isabella, and are in the midst of noise and gayety. Arrangements can +be made at any of these houses for board by the day, or on the +European plan; all have restaurants. + +There are some very attractive summer resorts in the environs of the +city, one of the nearest and prettiest of which is El Cerro (the +hill), one league from town. It has a number of remarkably pleasant +country-seats, some of which have extensive gardens, rivaling that of +the Captain-General in extent. But to reach Cerro one has to drive +over a road which is in such want of repair as to be dangerous, +gullied by the rains, and exhibiting holes two feet deep, liable to +break the horses' legs and the wheels of the vehicles. Here is a road, +close to Havana, with stones weighing hundreds of pounds on the +surface, in the very wheel-tracks. Handsome hedges of the wild pine, +the aloe, and the Spanish bayonet line the road, where an occasional +royal palm, the emblem of majesty, stands alone, adding grandeur to +all the surroundings. If you drive out to Cerro, put on a linen +duster; otherwise you will be likely to come back looking like a +miller's apprentice. Not far beyond Cerro there lies some beautiful +country, reached by the same miserable road. Puentes Grandes, a small +village near the falls of the Almendares River, is but two miles +further north than Cerro, and adjoining this place, a couple of miles +further, is a small, picturesque village called Ceiba, from the +abundance of that species of tree which once flourished there. These +two places have some interesting country residences, where the +wealthiest citizens of Havana spend their summers. The village of +Quemados is also in this immediate neighborhood, about a couple of +leagues from town; here is situated the Havana Hippodrome, where +horse-races take place in the winter season. We must not forget to +mention Vedado, on the seashore, whither the Havanese drive oftenest +on Sundays; it is also connected with the city by steam-cars and +omnibus. There are some fine villas here, and it is quite a Cuban +watering-place, affording excellent bathing facilities. Vedado has +wide streets, and, after the city, seems to be remarkably clean and +neat. + +The Bishop's Garden, so called because some half century since it was +the residence of the Bishop of Havana, is about four miles from the +city, on the line of the Marianao railroad. It must have been a +delightful place when in its prime and properly cared for; even now, +in its ruins, it is extremely interesting. There are a score, more or +less, of broken, moss-grown statues, stone balustrades, and stone +capitals lying among the luxuriant vegetation, indicating what was +once here. Its alleys of palms, over two hundred years in age, the +thrifty almond-trees, and the gaudy-colored piñons, with their +honeysuckle-like bloom, delight the eye. The flamboyant absolutely +blazed in its gorgeous flowers, like ruddy flames, all over the +grounds. The remarkable fan-palm spread out its branches like a +peacock's tail, screening vistas here and there. Through these grounds +flows a small swift stream, which has its rise in the mountains some +miles inland, its bright and sparkling waters imparting an added +beauty to the place. By simple irrigating means this stream is made to +fertilize a considerable tract of land used as vegetable gardens, +lying between Tulipan and Havana. The Bishop's Garden still contains +large stone basins for swimming purposes, cascades, fountains, and +miniature lakes, all rendered possible by means of this small, clear, +deep river. The neglected place is sadly suggestive of decay, with its +moss-covered paths, tangled undergrowth, and untrimmed foliage. +Nothing, however, can mar the glory of the grand immemorial palms. + +The town of Tulipan, in which is the Bishop's Garden, is formed of +neat and pleasant residences of citizens desiring to escape the bustle +and closeness of the city. The houses are half European or American in +their architecture, modified to suit the climate. Here the American +Consul-General has a delightfully chosen home, surrounded by pleasant +shade, and characterized by lofty, cool apartments; with bright, snowy +marble floors, plenty of space, and perfect ventilation. Mr. Williams +is a gentleman unusually well fitted for the responsible position he +fills, having been a resident of Cuba for many years, and speaking the +language like a native. In his intensely patriotic sentiments he is a +typical American. It is not out of place for us to acknowledge here +our indebtedness to him for much important information relating to +the island. + +The most celebrated mineral springs in Cuba are to be found at San +Diego, where there are hot sulphur waters, springs bubbling +ceaselessly from the earth, and for which great virtues are claimed. +The springs are situated west of Havana, between thirty and forty +leagues, at the base of the southern slope of the mountains. These +waters are freely drank, as well as bathed in, and are highly charged +with sulphureted hydrogen, and contain sulphate of lime and carbonate +of magnesia. There are some diseases of women for which the San Diego +waters are considered to be a specific, and remarkable cures are +authenticated. Rheumatism and skin diseases are specially treated by +the local physician. There is a very fair hotel at San Diego, located +near the baths, and many Americans speak warmly in praise of the place +as a health resort. + +Next to the springs of San Diego, those of Madruga are notable, +situated between Matanzas and Havana, and which can be reached by +rail. The character of these springs is very similar to those of San +Diego, though of lower temperature. They are used both for bathing and +for drinking. Madruga is more easily accessible from the metropolis +than is San Diego. There is also a good physician resident in the +village. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. + + +The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and +quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even +excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of +Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The +scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes +indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only +procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a +distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from +Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was +through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication +was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends +on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them, +until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers. + +The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of +Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have +never seen equaled elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris +colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is +ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are +virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and +double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be +measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical +ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as +ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to +the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much +used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being +curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors +which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was +closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited +by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if +reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple. +Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by +alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a +dull, lustreless gray. + +The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table +extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches +resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus +insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in +the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the +large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block +from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh +sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies. + +The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name +the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the +government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to +pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The +boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the +government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine +lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but +even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost +precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the +Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the +stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting +for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long +suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have +learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make +no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels. + +The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship +of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by +way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the +reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement. + +One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that +of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent +individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a +notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring +and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the +pretentious title of King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a +fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any +other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters +to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes +extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans. +With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately +imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even +that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and +to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said +to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having +been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto. +His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have +given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed +a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His +masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of +him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise +and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies +or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired. +Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends +upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is +known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally +turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more +profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to +be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even +to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity, +being stimulated by the excessive and unreasonable excise duties +imposed upon the necessities of life. + +When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a +very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal +authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were +practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a +contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in +broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of +the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even +in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on +in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a +determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously +about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent +hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing +their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and +dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first +moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of +smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with +life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and +day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to +little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was +only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the +contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials. +The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely +defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws +failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want +of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties among the shoals +frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was +offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as +pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was +offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be +the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the +authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken +that those who were most interested should be made aware of their +purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too +much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered +to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign +punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The +government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object. + +It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months +subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred. +Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of +the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the +Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening +in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music, +had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and +found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the +stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the +tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between +the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though +bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their +part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure, +wrapped in a half military cloak, might have been observed watching +the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After +observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other +face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes +of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard, +the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without +being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manoeuvre, +requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment +the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a +bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the +shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed. + +The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the +gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the +Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a +perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at +the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the +stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as +though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The +drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some +regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered +the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a +large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged +in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised +satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the +new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak, +tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the +perspiration from his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise +and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:-- + +"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?" + +"One who has important information to impart to the government," was +the quiet reply. + +"But why seek this manner of audience?" + +"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear." + +"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?" + +"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency." + +"But I do mind it very seriously." + +"It can be explained by and by." + +"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your +business here?" + +"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any +information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger. +"Is it not so?" + +"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to +say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly." + +"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise +I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate." + +"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"-- + +"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn +state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"-- + +"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon." + +"True, but"-- + +"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward +involves unconditional pardon to the informant." + +"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the +leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti." + +"Ay." + +"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make." + +"Speak, then." + +"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will +grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you +require?" + +"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor. + +"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have +been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?" + +"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently. + +"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply. + +"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered +the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this +precaution. + +"Even if I were a leader among these men?" + +The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man +before him a searching glance, then said:-- + +"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot +our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you +shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card." + +"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully +trust these words, else I should not have ventured here." + +"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious," +continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from +his seat. + +"It is well. I will speak without further parley. The man for whom you +have offered the largest reward--ay, dead or alive--is before you!" + +"And you are"-- + +"Captain Marti!" + +Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some +lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively +cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his +right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not +unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of +similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the +table, saying:-- + +"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the +future, not fighting." + +"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of +thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that, +provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law +demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to +secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added. + +"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply. + +"We understand each other then." + +Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a +verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after, +the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement, +with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the +circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers. + +Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the +scene which we have described, then, summoning the officer of the +guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved +and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not +made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been +condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid. + +On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay +under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost +activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of +the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully +did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among +the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he +was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage +places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores +were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels +were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one +of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the +would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a +rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few +hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but +still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied +the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous +became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon +was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the +ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look +very deeply into the business, and they believed that Marti had +really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him +to his presence and said to Marti:-- + +"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am +prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and +unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark +the word _past_ offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new +disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as +though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an +order upon the treasury for the sum"-- + +"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back, +and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward. + +"What does this mean?" asked Tacon. + +"Permit me to explain, Excellency." + +"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor. + +"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to +the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal." + +"Speak out. Let us know what it is." + +"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the +money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the +coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with +fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply +compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense, +which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of +twenty-five years shall revert to the government." + +"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the +Governor. + +"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing +to leave. + +"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably +accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought." + +As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw +that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered +that he should always have the man under his control, and so the +proposal was finally accepted and confirmed. + +The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this +extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they +were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and +realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old +business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the +largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the +article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired +for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the +government. + +Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to +see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him +that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in +Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast, +he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the +privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and +best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the +Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of +this monopoly were never made public. + +Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these +are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which +are believed to be authentic. + +Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba, +none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled +the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning +to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful +character, for although he followed out with energy the various +improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were +often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people +generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he +vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built +a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new +roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and +opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus +laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the +formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also +practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical +effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the +gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the +public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement. + +In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting +a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were +formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our +American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude, +arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were +counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed +for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There +was undoubtedly much of right mingled with his wrongs, but if he left +lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many +tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be +throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of +justice--wild justice--prompting him. Some of the stories still +current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case, +while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as +exercised in the contract with Captain Marti. + +On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as +in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration; +indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday +for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each +with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude +African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic +and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks +representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on +dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to +point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one +they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate +way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on +the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead +calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief. +But what it all means except improving a special occasion for +wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will +puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is +but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually +imported into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however, +from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be +remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years. + +The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these +notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under +the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four +miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and +thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two +thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied +upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its +whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two +thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by +springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than +that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English +physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which +has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is +remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary +invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford +good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky +islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition +in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of +precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur, +quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is +reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a +month. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. + + +There is a regularly organized lottery in Havana, to which the +government lends its name, and which has semi-monthly drawings. These +drawings are made in public, and great care is taken to impress the +people with the idea of their entire fairness. The authorities realize +over a million dollars annually by the tax which is paid into the +treasury on these most questionable enterprises. The lottery is +patronized by high and low, the best mercantile houses devoting a +regular sum monthly to the purchase of tickets on behalf of their +firms. One individual of this class told the writer that no drawing +had taken place within the last ten years at Havana in which the firm +of which he was a member had not been interested to the extent of at +least one doubloon, that is, one whole ticket. The mode usually is, +however, to purchase several fractional parts of tickets, so as to +multiply the chances. On being asked what was the result of the ten +years of speculation in this line, the reply was that the books of the +firm would show, as it was entered therein like any other line of +purchases. Curious to find an authentic instance as an example, the +matter was followed up until the result was found. It seemed that this +house had averaged about four hundred dollars per annum expended for +lottery tickets, that is, four thousand dollars in the last ten years. +On the credit side they had received in prizes about nineteen hundred +dollars, making a loss of twenty-one hundred dollars. "But then," +remarked our informant, "we may get a big prize one of these +days,--who knows?" + +The lottery here proves to be as great a curse as it does in Italy, +where its demoralizing effects are more apparent. The poorer classes, +even including the slaves and free negroes, are regular purchasers, +and occasionally a prize is realized among them, which stimulates to +increased ventures. A few years since, some slaves upon a plantation +near Alquizar purchased a single ticket, clubbing together in order to +raise the money. These Africans drew a prize of forty thousand +dollars, which sum was honestly paid to them, and they purchased their +freedom at once, dividing a very pretty amount for each as a capital +to begin business on his own account. + +"And pray what became of those liberated men?" we asked of our +informant. "Singular to say I can tell you," he answered. "Others felt +the same interest you express, and they have been followed in their +subsequent career. There were sixteen of the party, who realized equal +portions of the prize. They were valuable slaves, and paid an average +of fifteen hundred dollars each for their free papers. This left them +a thousand dollars each. Two returned to Africa. Four joined the +insurgents at Santiago, in 1870, and were probably shot. The remainder +drank themselves to death in Havana, or died by fevers induced +through intemperate habits." "Did you ever know a man, white or black, +who drew a prize of any large amount, who was not the worse for it +after a short time?" we asked. "Perhaps not," was his honest reply. A +miserable creature came into the vestibule of the Telegrafo Hotel one +day begging. After he had departed we were told that a few years ago +he was possessed of a fortune. "Why is he in this condition?" we +asked. "He was engaged in a good business," said our informant, "drew +a large prize in the lottery, sold out his establishment, and gave +himself up to pleasure, gambling, and drink. That is all that is left +of him now. He has just come out of the hospital, where he was treated +for paralysis." + +Honestly conducted as these lotteries are generally believed to be, +their very stability and the just payment of prizes but makes them the +more baleful and dangerous in their influence upon the public. As +carried on in Havana, the lottery business is the most wholesale mode +of gambling ever witnessed. Though some poor man may become +comparatively wealthy through their means, once in twenty years, yet +in the mean time thousands are impoverished in their mad zeal to +purchase tickets though it cost them the last dollar they possess. The +government thus fosters a taste for gambling and supplies the ready +means, while any one at all acquainted with the Spanish character must +know that the populace need no prompting in a vice to which they seem +to take intuitively. No people, unless it be the Chinese, are so +addicted to all games of chance upon which money can be staked. + +Spaniards, and especially Cuban Spaniards, receive credit for being +extremely hospitable, and to a certain extent this is true; but one +soon learns to regard the extravagant manifestations which so often +characterize their domestic etiquette as rather empty and heartless. +Let a stranger enter the house of a Cuban for the first time, +especially if he be a foreigner, and the host or hostess of the +mansion at once places all things they possess at his service, yet no +one thinks for a single moment of interpreting this offer literally. +The family vehicle is at your order, or the loan of a saddle horse, +and in such small kindnesses they are always generous; but when they +beg you to accept a ring, a book, or a valuable toy, because you have +been liberal in your praise of the article, you are by no means to do +so. Another trait of character which suggests itself in this +connection is the universal habit of profuse compliment common among +Cuban ladies. Flattery is a base coin at best, but it is current here. +The ladies listen to these compliments as a matter of course from +their own countrymen or such Frenchmen as have settled among them, but +if an American takes occasion to express his honest admiration to a +Creole, her delight is at once manifest. Both the French and Spanish +are extremely gallant to the gentler sex, but it requires no argument +to show that woman under either nationality is far less esteemed and +honored than she is with us in America. + +The bonnet, which forms so important a part of a lady's costume in +Europe and America, is rarely worn by the Creoles, and strangers who +appear on the streets of Havana with the latest fashion of this ever +varying article are regarded with curiosity, though so many American +and English ladies visit the island annually. In place of a bonnet, +when any covering is considered desirable for the head, the Cuban +ladies generally wear a long black veil, richly wrought, and gathered +at the back of the head upon the clustered braid of hair, which is +always black and luxuriant. More frequently, however, even this +appendage is not seen, and they drive in the Paseo or through the +streets with their heads entirely uncovered, save by the sheltering +hood of the victoria. When necessity calls them abroad in the early or +middle hours of the day, there is generally a canvas screen buttoned +to the dasher and extended to the top of the calash, to shut out the +too ardent rays of the sun. Full dress, on all state occasions, is +black, but white is universally worn by the ladies in domestic life, +forming a rich contrast to the olive complexions of the women. +Sometimes in the Paseo, when enjoying the evening drive, these fair +creatures indulge in strange contrasts of colors in dress. They also +freely make use of a cosmetic called cascarilla, made from eggshells +finely powdered and mixed with the white of the egg. This forms an +adhesive paste, with which they at times enamel themselves, so that +faces and necks that are naturally dark resemble those of persons who +are white as pearls. + +There is one indispensable article, without which a Cuban lady would +feel herself absolutely lost. The fan is a positive necessity to her, +and she learns its coquettish and graceful use from childhood. Formed +of various rich materials, it glitters in her tiny hand like a gaudy +butterfly, now half, now wholly shading her radiant face, which +quickly peeps out again from behind its shelter, like the moon from +out a passing cloud. This little article, always costly, sometimes +very expensive, in her hand seems in its eloquence of motion almost to +speak. She has a witching flirt with it that expresses scorn; a +graceful wave of complacence; an abrupt closing of it that indicates +vexation or anger; a gradual and cautious opening of its folds that +signifies reluctant forgiveness; in short, the language of the fan in +the hand of a Cuban lady is a wonderfully adroit and expressive +pantomime that requires no interpreter, for, like the Chinese written +language, it cannot be spoken. + +It may be the prodigality of nature in respect to Flora's kingdom +which has retarded the development of a love for flowers among the +people of the island. Doubtless if Maréchal Niel roses, Jacqueminots, +jonquils, and lilies of the valley were as abundant with us in every +field as clover, dandelions, and buttercups, we should hardly regard +them with so much delight as we do. It is not common to see flowers +under cultivation as they are at the North. They spring up too readily +in a wild state from the fertile soil. One cannot pass over half a +league on an inland road without his senses being regaled and +delighted by the natural floral fragrance, heliotrope, honeysuckle, +sweet pea, and orange blossoms predominating. The jasmine and Cape +rose, though less fragrant, are delightful to the eye, and cluster +everywhere among the hedges, groves, and coffee estates. There is a +blossoming shrub, the native name of which we do not remember, but +which is remarkable for its multitudinous crimson flowers, so +seductive to the humming-birds that they hover about it all day long, +burying themselves in its blossoms until petal and wing seem one. At +first upright, a little later the gorgeous bells droop downward and +fall to the ground unwithered, being poetically called Cupid's tears. +Flowers abound here which are only known to us in our hothouses, whose +brilliant colors, like those of the cactus, scarlet, yellow, and blue, +are quite in harmony with the surroundings, where everything is aglow. +There was pointed out to us a specimen of the frangipanni, a tall and +nearly leafless plant bearing a milk-white flower, and resembling the +tuberose in fragrance, but in form much like our Cherokee rose. This +plant, it will be remembered, was so abundant and so pleasant to the +senses as to attract the attention of the early explorers who +accompanied Columbus across the sea. + +There seems to be at times a strange narcotic influence in the +atmosphere of the island, realized more especially inland, where the +visitor is partially removed from the winds which commonly blow from +the Gulf in the after part of the day. So potent has the writer felt +this influence that at first it was supposed to be the effect of some +powerful and medicinal plant abounding in the neighborhood; but on +inquiry it was found that this delightful sense of ease and indolent +luxuriousness was not an unusual experience, particularly among +strangers, and was solely attributable to the narcotic of the soft +climate. By gently yielding to this influence one seemed to dream +while awake, and though the sense of hearing is diminished, that of +the olfactories appears to be increased, and pleasant odors float on +every passing breeze. One feels at peace with all human nature, and a +sense of voluptuous ease overspreads the body. Others have experienced +and remarked upon this sensation of idle happiness. The only +unpleasant realizing sense during the enjoyment of this condition is +the fear that some human voice, or some chance noise, loud and abrupt, +may arouse the dreamer from his trance. + +Specimens of the Indian fig, as it is called here, will be sure to +attract the visitor's eye on his inland excursions. It clasps, +entwines, and finally, serpent-like, kills the loftiest forest +monarchs, and taking their place, firmly roots itself and becomes a +stately tree, fattening upon its ill-gotten possession. Its unfading +leaf of vivid green is beautiful to look upon, in spite of its known +and treacherous character. In many respects it typifies the Spanish +discoverers of this beautiful isle, who gradually possessed themselves +of its glorious heritage by the destruction of its legitimate owners. + +The manner in which that prolific tree, the cocoanut palm, is +propagated was a curious and interesting study for a leisure hour, the +germination having been with us heretofore an unsolved riddle. Within +the hard shell of the nut, among the mass of rich creamy substance, +near the large end, is a small white lump like the stalk of a young +mushroom, called the ovule. This little finger-like germ of the future +tree gradually forces itself through one of the three eyes always to +be found on the cocoanut. What giant power is concealed within that +tiny ovule, apparently so soft and insignificant! Having pierced its +way through the first shell, it then gradually rends the outer coat of +fibrous covering and curves upward towards the light. Into the inner +shell which it has vacated, it throws little fibrous threads which +slowly absorb the albumen, and thus sustain its new life as it rapidly +develops. First a few leaves grow upward, which from the very outset +begin to assume the pinnate form of the cocoanut leaf, while, +stretching earthward, a myriad of little threads of roots bury +themselves in the ground. Though the tree will grow to a height of +sixty feet or more, these roots will never individually exceed the +size of the fingers on one's hand. In five or six years the tree will +produce its first cluster of cocoanuts, and for several years will go +on increasing in fruitfulness and yielding a bountiful crop for fifty +or sixty years. It was a constant wonder how these cocoanut trees +could sustain an upright position with such a weight of ripening fruit +clustered beneath the shade of their tufted tops. + +As regards the cost of living in the island, it may be said to average +higher to the stranger than in the United States. At the city hotels +and large boarding houses the charge is modified from four or five +dollars per day; if a special bargain is made for a considerable +period, it is customary to give a reduction on transient rates of ten +or fifteen per cent. Among the small towns in the interior, at the +houses of entertainment, which are wretchedly poor as a rule, the +charges are exorbitant, and strangers are looked upon as fair game. +This, however, is no more so than in continental Europe, where, though +the accommodations are better, the general treatment is the same. The +luscious and healthful fruits of the country form a large share of the +provisions of the table in Cuba, and are always freely provided. A +fair quality of claret wine, imported from Spain, is also regularly +placed before the guest free of charge, it being the ordinary drink of +the people; but beware of calling for other wines, and particularly +champagne, unless you are prepared to be swindled by the price charged +in your bill. Of course you get only imitation champagne,--that is to +be expected; you do the same nearly everywhere. There is not enough +pure champagne manufactured in Europe to supply the Paris and London +markets alone. The mode of cooking is very similar to the French, plus +the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime +necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba, +however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table +which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content +to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the +curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to +compensate for many small annoyances. + +One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on +the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated +about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by +rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that +between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the +result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over +nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently +demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The +water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly +depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three +or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines +is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on +the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by +Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary +for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in +Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is +impossible to find in the metropolis. + +Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious +place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives +indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling +combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds +become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could +not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other +in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as +long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and +the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of +gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these +contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being +reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted +priest, as eager in the result as the professionals themselves. The +cock-pit is a circular building, thirty or forty feet in diameter, +resembling on the outside a huge haystack. The size, however, is +regulated according to the population of the immediate neighborhood. +The seats are raised in a circle, one above another, about a central +ring in which the contest takes place. The ground is covered with +sawdust or tan. The birds are of a native game breed, and are subject +from chickenhood to a peculiar course of treatment. The English +game-cock is prized here only for crossing with the native breed. He +cannot equal the Spanish bird in the necessary qualities of pluck and +endurance. + +The food of the game-cock when in training is regulated with great +care, carefully weighed, and a certain number of ounces is given to +him three times a day, so that the bird, like a race-horse, is never +permitted to grow fat, but is kept in what is called fighting +condition. Some days before a contest they are fed with a few ounces +of raw meat once during the twenty-four hours, which, being kept +always a little hungry, they devour with avidity. Greater care as to +diet and exercise could not be taken by pugilists training for a +conflict. The feathers of these fighting-cocks are closely cropped in +a jaunty style; the neck and head, to the length of three inches, is +completely plucked of all feathers, the comb being trimmed close to +the crown. The flesh which is thus left bare is daily rubbed with rum +until it becomes hardened and calloused. Brief encounters are +permitted among them under proper restrictions, when they are young. +No fear is felt that they will seriously injure each other, until they +are old enough to have the sharp steel gaffs affixed upon the spurs +with which nature has supplied them. Then, like men armed with sword +and dagger, they attack each other with fatal earnestness, making the +blood flow at every stroke. It is singular that the birds are so +determined upon the fight that no amount of loud cries, or challenges +between the betters, or jeers by the excited audience, disturbs them +in the least. + +The author witnessed one of these exhibitions at Guines. The +fighting-ring of the cock-pit was some twelve feet in diameter, the +seating capacity being arranged for about a hundred persons or more, +and each bench was fully occupied. The two birds pitted against each +other were carefully weighed, and the result was announced to the +audience. They were then passed in review, held in the hands of their +respective owners, and betting at once commenced as to which would +win the victory. In the mean time the two birds seemed quietly +awaiting their time, and by the knowing way in which both surveyed the +surroundings and the assembled people, they really appeared as if they +understood the business in hand. There was no struggling on their part +to get out of the hands of those who held them. Presently they were +passed into the care of the umpires, two of whom officiated, and who +then affixed the steel gaffs to the spurs of the contestants. The two +birds were then placed on the ground inside of the ring, opposite each +other. No sooner did they feel themselves fairly on their feet than +both crowed triumphantly, eying each other with fell intent. + +Then commenced a series of bird-tactics, each partially advancing and +pretending to retreat as if to draw on his antagonist, pecking the +while at imaginary kernels of corn on the ground. In the mean time the +audience almost held its breath in anticipation of the cunningly +deferred onset. Presently the two birds, as if by one impulse, rushed +towards each other, and a simultaneous attack took place. The contest, +when the birds are armed with steel gaffs, rarely lasts more than +eight or ten minutes before one or both are so injured as to end the +fight. The money staked upon the fight is won by those backing the +bird which survives, or is longest in dying. When the artificial spurs +are not used, and the birds fight in their natural state, the battle +sometimes lasts for an hour, but is always fatal in the end to one or +the other, or both. Eyes are pecked out, wings and legs broken, necks +pierced again and again; still they fight on until death ensues. +During the fight the excitement is intense, and a babel of voices +reigns within the structure, the betting being loud, rapid, and high. +Thus in a small way the cock-fight is as cruel and as demoralizing as +that other national game, the terrible bull-fight, indigenous to Spain +and her colonies. + +Cuba has justly been called the garden of the world, perpetual summer +smiling upon its shores, and its natural wealth and possibilities +baffling even the imagination. The waters which surround it, as we +have seen, abound with a variety of fishes, whose bright colors, +emulating the tints of precious stones and the prismatic hues of the +rainbow, astonish and delight the eye of the stranger. Stately and +peculiar trees enliven the picturesque landscape. Throughout the woods +and groves flit a variety of birds, whose dazzling colors defy the +palette of the artist. Here the loquacious parrot utters his harsh +natural notes; there the red flamingo watches by the shore of the +lagoon, the waters dyed by the reflection of his scarlet plumage. It +would require a volume to describe the vegetable and animal kingdom of +Cuba, but among the most familiar birds are the golden robin, the +bluebird, the catbird, the Spanish woodpecker, the gaudy-plumed +paroquet, and the pedoreva, with its red throat and breast and its +pea-green head and body. There is also a great variety of wild +pigeons, blue, gray, and white; the English lady-bird, with a blue +head, scarlet breast, and green and white back; the indigo-bird, the +golden-winged woodpecker, the ibis, and many smaller species, like the +humming-bird. Of this latter family there are said to be sixty +different varieties, each sufficiently individualized in size and +other peculiarities to be easily identified by ornithologists. Some +of these birds are actually no larger in body than butterflies, and +with not so large a spread of wing. A humming-bird's nest, composed of +cotton interlaced with horse-hair, was shown the author at Buena +Esperanza, a plantation near Guines. It was about twice the size of a +lady's thimble, and contained two eggs, no larger than common peas. +The nest was a marvel of perfection, the cotton being bound cunningly +and securely together by the long horse-hairs, of which there were not +more than three or four. Human fingers could not have done it so +deftly. Probably the bird that built the nest and laid the eggs did +not weigh, all fledged, over half an ounce! Parrots settle on the sour +orange trees when the fruit is ripe, and fifty may be secured by a net +at a time. The Creoles stew and eat them as we do pigeons; the flesh +is tough, and as there are plenty of fine water-fowl and marsh birds +about the lagoons as easily procured, one is at a loss to account for +the taste that leads to eating parrots. The brown pelican is seen in +great numbers sailing lazily over the water and dipping for fish. + +Strange is the ubiquity of the crows; one sees them in middle India, +China, and Japan. They ravage our New England cornfields, and in +Ceylon,--equatorial Ceylon,--they absolutely swarm. When one, +therefore, finds them saucy, noisy, thieving, even in Cuba, it is not +surprising that the fact should be remarked upon, though here the +species differs somewhat from those referred to, being known as the +Jack-crow or turkey-buzzard. In the far East, like the vulture, the +crow is considered a natural scavenger or remover of carrion, and the +same excuse is made for him in Cuba and Florida. But is he not more of +a freebooter and feathered bandit,--in short, a prowling thief +generally? Nature has few birds or animals upon her varied list with +which we would find fault, but the crow,--well, having nothing to say +in its favor, let us drop the subject. Parrots, paroquets, tiny indigo +birds, pedorevas, and robins,--yes, these are all in harmony with +mingled fragrance and sunshine, but the coal-black crow, with his bad +habits and hoarse bird-profanity, bah! When these West Indian islands +were first settled by Spanish emigrants, they were the home of myriads +of birds of every tropical variety, but to-day the feathered beauties +and merry songsters have been entirely driven away from some of the +smaller islands, and decimated on others, by the demand for bird's +wings with which to deck ladies' bonnets in Europe and America. +Sportsmen have found it profitable to visit the tropics solely for the +purpose of shooting these rainbow-colored creatures for ornaments. +Aside from the loss to general interest and beauty in nature caused by +this wholesale destruction of the feathered tribe, another and quite +serious result has been the consequence. A plague of vermin has +followed the withdrawal of these little insect-killers. It is so +natural to look for them amid such luxuriant vegetation that they +become conspicuous by their absence. Now and again, however, the ears +are gratefully saluted by the trilling and sustained notes of some +hidden songster, whose music is entirely in tune with the surrounding +loveliness, but truly delightful song-birds have ever been rare in the +low latitudes, where there is more of color than song. + +Those agriculturists who possess sufficient means confine themselves +solely to the raising of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, the former +principally employing capital. Indian corn, which the first settlers +found indigenous here, is quite neglected, and when raised at all it +is used before ripening, almost universally, as green fodder; very +little is ripened and gathered as grain. It is found that horses and +cattle can be kept in good condition and strength, while performing +the usual labor required of them, by feeding them on a liberal +allowance of cornstalks, given in the green state, before the corn has +begun to form on the cob. The Cubans will tell you that the nourishing +principle which forms the grain is in the stalk and leaves, and if fed +in that state before ripening further, the animals obtain all the +sustaining properties which they require. The climate is particularly +adapted to the raising of oranges, but there is very little attention +given to propagating this universally popular fruit, more especially +since the increased production which has taken place on the other side +of the Gulf Stream in Florida. Three years after the seed of this +fruit is deposited in suitable soil in Cuba the tree becomes ten or +twelve feet in height, and in the fourth year rarely produces less +than a hundred oranges, while at ten years of age it commonly bears +three and four thousand, thus proving, with proper care, extremely +profitable. It will be remembered that it is the longest lived of +succulent fruit trees. There are specimens still extant in Cuba known +to be one hundred years old. The oranges produced in Florida are of +equally good quality, and bring a better price in the market, but the +crop is subject to more contingencies and liability to loss than in +Cuba. The frost not infrequently ruins a whole season's yield in the +peninsula in one or two severe nights, while frost is never +experienced upon the island. + +It seems unreasonable that when the generous, fruitful soil of Cuba is +capable of producing two or three crops of vegetables annually, the +agricultural wealth of the island should be so poorly developed. +Thousands upon thousands of acres of fertile soil are still in their +virgin condition. It is capable of supporting a population of almost +any density,--certainly from eight to ten millions of people might +find goodly homes here, and yet the largest estimate at the present +time gives only a million and a half of inhabitants. When one treads +the fertile soil and beholds the clustering fruits in such abundance, +the citron, the star-apple, the perfumed pineapple, the luscious +banana, and other fruits for which our language has no name, not +forgetting the various noble woods which caused Columbus to exclaim +with pleasure, and to mention the palm and the pine growing together, +characteristic types of Arctic and equatorial vegetation, we are +struck with the thought of how much Providence and how little man has +done for this Eden of the Gulf. We long to see it peopled by men who +can appreciate the gifts of nature, men who are willing to do their +part in recognition of her fruitfulness and who will second her +spontaneous bounty. + +Nowhere on the face of the globe would well-directed, intelligent +labor meet with a richer reward, nowhere would repose from labor be so +sweet. The hour of rest here sinks upon the face of nature with a +peculiar charm; the night breeze, in never-failing regularity, comes +with its gentle wing to fan the weary frame, and no danger lurks in +its breath. It has free scope through the unglazed windows, and +blowing fresh from the broad surface of the Mexican Gulf, it bears a +goodly tonic to the system. Beautifully blue are the heavens and +festally bright the stars of a tropical night, where familiar +constellations greet us with brighter radiance and new ones charm the +eye with their novelty. Preëminent in brilliancy among them is the +Southern Cross, a galaxy of stars that never greets us in the North. +At midnight its glittering framework stands erect. That solemn hour +past the Cross declines. How glorious the nights where such a heavenly +sentinel indicates the watches! "How often have we heard our guides +exclaim in the savannas of Venezuela," says Humboldt, "or in the +deserts extending from Lima to Truxillo, 'Midnight is past, the Cross +begins to bend.'" Cuba is indeed a land of enchantment, where nature +is beautiful and bountiful, and where mere existence is a luxury, but +it requires the infusion of a sterner, a more self-reliant, +self-denying and enterprising race to test its capabilities and to +astonish the world with its productiveness. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards Compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. --The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. + + +The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only +one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of. +It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches +are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present +notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique +vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its +extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the +peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At +first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards +in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to +ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is +most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the +deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently +its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every +impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is +very light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When +traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast +of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and +traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the +left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the +vehicle. + +If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and +there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often +added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the +shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the +calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great +pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented +for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes +even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed +negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or +silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the +knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more +especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the +freight. + +Were it not for the few railroads and steamboat routes which are +maintained, communication between the several parts of the island +would be almost impossible. During the rainy season especially, inland +travel is impracticable for wheels. China or Central Africa is equally +well off in this respect. Nearly all transportation, except it be on +the line of the railroads, is accomplished on mule-back, or on the +little Cuban horses. The fact is, road making is yet to be introduced +into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in +the environs of cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed +of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in +America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the +island than this absence of means for internal communication. In +Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford +facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was +first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most +bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was +the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of +property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city +proper. + +One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the +traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon +him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the +government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a +considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps +visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to +desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such +idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in +Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority. +Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor +desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh +permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show +your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which +you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says +it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at +police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin is quite as +uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must +hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the +contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are +sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your +correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well +as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the +receipt thereof. + +Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight +is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its +indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibitions are given at +Havana on each recurring Sunday afternoon, the same day that is chosen +for the brutal sport in Madrid and other Spanish peninsular cities. +The arena devoted to this purpose will seat about ten thousand +persons. The ground upon which the fight takes place occupies about an +acre, and is situated on the Regla side of the harbor, in the Plaza de +Toros. The seats are raised one above another, in a complete circle, +at a secure height from the dangerous struggle. Sometimes, in his +furious onslaughts, the bull throws himself completely over the stout +boards which separate him from the spectators, when a wild stampede +occurs. + +On the occasion of the fight witnessed by the author, after a shrill +flourish of trumpets a large bull was let loose from apartments +beneath the seats, the door of which opened into the arena. The poor +creature came from utter darkness, where he had been kept for many +hours, into a blaze of bright sunlight, which confused him for a +moment, and he pawed the ground excitedly, while he rolled his big +fierce eyeballs as though he suspected some trick had been played upon +him. Presently, having become accustomed to the light, he glared from +one side to the other as if to take in the situation, and see who it +was that dared to oppose him. + +In the ring, distributed here and there, were some half a dozen +professional fighters on foot, called banderilleros and chulos, +besides which there were two on horseback, known as picadors. The +former held scarlet flags in their hands, with which to confuse and +tease the bull; the latter were armed with a long pole each, at the +end of which was a sharp piece of steel capable of wounding the bull, +but not deeply or dangerously. These fighters were a hardened set of +villains, if the human countenance can be relied upon as showing forth +the inner man. They rushed towards the animal and flaunted their flags +before his eyes, striving to excite and draw him on to attack them. +They seemed reckless, but very expert, agile, and wary. Every effort +was made to worry and torment the bull to a state of frenzy. Barbs +were thrust into his neck and back by the banderilleros, with small +rockets attached. These exploded into his very flesh, which they +burned and tore. Thrusts from the horsemen's spears also gave harsh, +if not dangerous wounds, so that the animal bled freely at many +points. + +When the infuriated beast made a rush at one of his tormentors, they +adroitly sprang on one side, or, if too closely pressed, these +practiced athletes with a handspring leaped over the high board fence. +Whichever way he turned the bull met a fresh enemy and another device +of torment, until at last the poor creature was frantically mad. The +fight then became more earnest, the bull rushing first at one and +then another of his enemies, but the practiced fighters were too wary +for him; he could not change position so quickly as they could. +Finally, the bull turned his attention to the horses and made madly +first at the one which was nearest, and though he received a tearing +wound along his spine from the horseman's spear, he ripped the horse's +bowels open with his horns and threw him upon the ground, with his +rider under him. The men on foot rushed to the rescue and drew off the +bull by fresh attacks and by flaunting the flags before his eyes. In +the mean time, the rider was got out from beneath the horse, which lay +dying. The bull, finding that he could revenge himself on the horses, +transferred his attention to the other and threw him to the ground +with his rider, but received another long wound upon his own back. +Leaving the two horses lying nearly dead, the bull again turned upon +the banderilleros, rushing with such headlong speed at them that he +buried his sharp horns several inches in the timbers of the fence. It +was even a struggle for him to extract them. The purpose is not to +give the bull any fatal wounds, but to worry and torment him to the +last degree of endurance. This struggle was kept up for twenty minutes +or more, when the poor creature, bleeding from a hundred wounds, +seemed nearly exhausted. Then, at a sign from the director, there was +a grand flourish of trumpets, and the matador, a skillful swordsman +and the hero of the occasion, entered the ring to close with the bull, +singly. The other fighters withdrew and the matador advanced with a +scarlet flag in one hand and his naked sword in the other. The bull +stood at bay, too much worn by the fight and loss of blood to +voluntarily attack this single enemy. The matador advanced and lured +him to an attack by flaunting his flag. A few feeble rushes were made +by the bleeding animal, until, in a last effort to drive his horns +into this new enemy, he staggered heavily forward. This time the +matador did not leap to one side, but received the bull upon the point +of his Toledo blade, which was aimed at a spot just back of the horns, +where the brain meets the spinal column. As the bull comes on with his +head bent down to the charge, this spot is exposed, and forms a fair +target for a practiced hand. The effect was electrical. The bull +staggered, reeled from side to side for an instant, and then fell +dead. Four bulls were destroyed in a like manner that afternoon, and, +in their gallant fight for their lives, they killed seven horses, +trampling their riders in two instances almost fatally, though they +are protected by a sort of leather armor on their limbs and body. +During the fight with the second bull, which was an extremely fierce +and powerful creature, a young girl of eighteen dressed in male +attire, who was trained to the brutal business, took an active part in +the arena with the banderilleros. One remarkable feat which she +performed was that of leaping by means of a pole completely over the +bull when he was charging at her. At Madrid, where the author +witnessed a similar exhibition, the introduction of a young girl among +the fighters was omitted, but otherwise the performance was nearly +identical. At the close of each act of the murderous drama, six horses +gayly caparisoned with bells and plumes dashed into the arena led by +attendants, and chains being attached to the bodies of the dead +animals, they were drawn out at great speed through a gate opened for +the purpose, amid another flourish of trumpets and the shouts of the +excited multitude. + +The worst of all this is that the influence of such outrageous cruelty +is lasting. It infects the beholders with a like spirit. In fact, it +is contagious. We all know how hard the English people became in the +time of Henry VIII. and Bloody Mary. + +In this struggle of the bull ring there is no gallantry or true +bravery displayed on the part of the professional fighters. They run +but little personal risk, practiced as they are, sheltered and +protected by artificial means and armed with keen weapons, whereas the +bull has only his horns to protect himself from his many tormentors. +There is no possible escape for him; his fate is sealed from the +moment he enters the ring. All the true bravery exhibited is on his +part; he is always the attacking party, and were the exhibition to be +attempted in an open field, even armed as they are, he would drive +every one of his enemies out of sight. The much-lauded matador does +not take his position in front of the animal until it is very nearly +exhausted by loss of blood and long-continued, furious fighting. In +our estimation, he encounters far less risk than does the humblest of +the banderilleros or chulos, who torment the bull face to face in the +fullness of his physical strength and courage. Still, instances are +not wanting wherein these matadors have been seriously wounded and +even killed by a frantic and dying bull, who has roused himself for a +last final struggle. + +Whatever colonial modification the Spanish character may have +apparently undergone in Cuba, the Creole is Castilian still in his +love for the cruel sports of the arena. Great is the similitude also +between the modern Spaniard and the ancient Roman in this respect. As +the Spanish language more closely resembles Latin than does the +Italian, so do the Spanish people show more of Roman blood than the +natives of Italy themselves. _Panem et circenses_ (bread and +circuses!) was the cry of the old Roman populace, and to gratify their +wishes millions of sesterces were lavished, and hecatombs of human +victims slain in the splendid amphitheatres erected by the masters of +the world in all the cities subject to their sway. And so _pan y +toros_ (bread and bulls!) is the imperious demand of the Spaniards, to +which the government is forced to respond. The parallel may be pursued +still further. The proudest ladies of Rome, maids and matrons, gazed +with liveliest interest upon the dying gladiators who hewed each other +in pieces, or on the Christians who perished in conflict with the wild +beasts, half starved to give them battle. So the señoras and señoritas +of Madrid, Seville, Malaga, and Havana enjoy, with keen delight, the +terrible spectacle of bulls slaughtered by picadors and matadors, and +gallant horses ripped up and disemboweled by the horns of their brute +adversaries. It is true that the ameliorating spirit of Christianity +is evinced in the changes which the arena has undergone. Human lives +are no longer designedly sacrificed wholesale in the bloody contests, +yet the bull-fight is sufficiently barbarous and atrocious. It is a +national institution, indicative of national character. + +To look upon the serenity of Cuban ladies, driving in the Paseo or +listening to the nightly music in the Plaza de Isabella, one could not +possibly imagine them to be lacking in tenderness, or that there was +in them sufficient hardihood to witness such exhibitions as we have +described, and yet one third of the audience on the occasion spoken of +was composed of the gentler sex. They are almost universally handsome, +being rather below the average height of the sex with us, but +possessing an erect and dignified carriage. Their form, always rounded +to a delicate fullness, is quite perfection in point of model. Their +dark hair and olive complexions are well matched,--the latter without +a particle of natural carmine. The eyes are a match for the hair, +being large and beautifully expressive, with a most irresistible dash +of languor in them,--but not the languor of illness. It is really +difficult to conceive of an ugly woman with such eyes as they all +possess in Cuba,--the Moorish, Andalusian eye. The Cuban women have +also been justly famed for their graceful carriage, and it is indeed +the poetry of motion, singular as it may appear, when it is remembered +that for them to walk abroad is such a rarity. It is not the simple +progressive motion alone, but also the harmonious play of features, +the coquettish undulation of the face, the exquisite disposition of +costume, and the modulation of voice, that engage the beholder and +lend a happy charm to every attitude and every step. + +The gentlemen as a rule are good-looking, though they are much +smaller, lighter, and more agile than the average American. The lazy +life they so universally lead tends to make them less manly than a +more active one would do. It seems to be a rule among them never to do +for themselves that which a slave can do for them. This is +demonstrated in the style of the volante, where the small horse is +made not only to draw the vehicle, but also to carry a large negro on +his back as driver. Now, if reins were used, there would be no +occasion for the postilion at all, but a Spaniard or Creole would +think it demeaning to drive his own vehicle. With abundance of +leisure, and the ever present influences of their genial clime, where +the heart's blood leaps more swiftly to the promptings of the +imagination and where the female form earliest attains its maturity, +the West Indians seem peculiarly adapted for romance and for love. The +consequent adventures constantly occurring among them often culminate +in startling tragedies, and afford plots in which a French +feuilletonist would revel. + +The nobility of Cuba, so called, is composed of rather homespun +material, to say the least, of it. There may be some fifty individuals +dubbed with the title of marquis, and as many more with that of count, +most of whom have acquired their wealth and position by carrying on +extensive sugar plantations. These are sneeringly designated by the +humble classes as sugar noblemen, and not inappropriately so, as +nearly all of these aristocratic gentlemen have purchased their titles +outright for money. Not the least consideration is exercised by the +Spanish throne as to the fitness of these ambitious individuals for +honorary distinction. It is a mere question of money, and if this be +forthcoming the title follows as a natural sequence. Twenty-five +thousand dollars will purchase any title. Such things are done in +other lands, but not quite so openly. And yet the tone of Cuban +society in its higher circles is found to be rather aristocratic and +exclusive. The native of Old Spain does not endeavor to conceal his +contempt for foreigners of all classes, and as to the Creoles, he +simply scorns to meet them on social grounds, shielding his +inferiority of intelligence under a cloak of hauteur, assuming the +wings of the eagle, but possessing only the eyes of the owl. Thus the +Castilians and Creoles are ever at antagonism, both socially and +politically. The bitterness of feeling existing between them can +hardly be exaggerated. The sugar planter, the coffee planter, the +merchant, and the liberal professions stand in the order in which we +have named them, as regards their relative degree of social +importance, but wealth, in fact, has the same charm here as elsewhere +in Christendom, and the millionaire has the entrée to all classes. + +The Monteros or yeomanry of the island inhabit the less cultivated and +cheaper portions of the soil, entering the cities only to dispose of +their surplus produce, and acting as the marketmen of the populous +districts. When they stir abroad, in nearly all parts of the island, +they are armed with a sword, and in the eastern sections about +Santiago, or even Cienfuegos, they also carry pistols in the holsters +of their saddles. Formerly this was indispensable for self-protection, +but at this time weapons are more rarely worn. Still the arming of the +Monteros has always been encouraged by the authorities, as they form a +sort of militia at all times available against negro insurrection, a +calamity in fear of which such communities must always live. The +Montero is rarely a slaveholder, but is frequently engaged on the +sugar plantations during the busy season as an overseer, and, to his +discredit be it said, he generally proves to be a hard taskmaster, +entertaining an intuitive dislike to the negroes. + +An evidence of the contagious character of cruelty was given in a +circumstance coming under the author's observation on a certain +plantation at Alquizar, where a manifest piece of severity led him to +appeal to the proprietor in behalf of a female slave. The request for +mercy was promptly granted, and the acting overseer, himself a +mulatto, was quietly reprimanded for his cruelty. "You will find," +said our host, "that colored men always make the hardest masters when +placed over their own race, but they have heretofore been much +employed on the island in this capacity, because a sense of pride +makes them faithful to the proprietor's interest. That man is himself +a slave," he added, pointing to the sub-overseer, who still stood +among the negroes, whip in hand. + +The Montero sometimes hires a free colored man to help him in the +planting season on his little patch of vegetable garden, in such work +as a Yankee would do for himself, but these small farmers trust mostly +to the exuberant fertility of the soil, and spare themselves all +manual labor, save that of gathering the produce and taking it to +market. They form, nevertheless, a very important and interesting +class of the population. They marry very young, the girls at thirteen +and fifteen, the young men from sixteen to eighteen, and almost +invariably rear large families. Pineapples and children are a +remarkably sure crop in the tropics. The increase among them during +the last half century has been very large, much more in proportion +than in any other class of the community, and they seem to be +approaching a degree of importance, at least numerically, which will +render them eventually like the American farmers, the bone and sinew +of the land. There is room enough for them and to spare, for hardly +more than one tenth of the land is under actual cultivation, a vast +portion being still covered by virgin forests and uncleared savannas. +The great and glaring misfortune--next to that of living under a +government permitting neither civil nor religious liberty, where +church and state are alike debased as the tools of despotism,--is +their want of educational facilities. Books and schools they have +none. Barbarism itself is scarcely less cultured. We were told that +the people had of late been somewhat aroused from this condition of +lethargy concerning education, and some effort has recently been made +among the more intelligent to afford their children opportunities for +instruction. But at the present writing, the Egyptian fellah is not +more ignorant than the rural population of Cuba, who as a mass possess +all the indolence and few of the virtues of the aborigines. + +There is one highly creditable characteristic evinced by the Monteros +as a class, and that is their temperate habits in regard to indulgence +in stimulating drinks. As a beverage they do not use ardent spirits, +and seem to have no taste or desire for the article, though they drink +the ordinary claret--rarely anything stronger. This applies to the +country people, not to the residents of the cities. The latter quickly +contract the habit of gin drinking, as already described. There is one +prominent vice to which the Monteros are indisputably addicted; +namely, that of gambling. It seems to be a natural as well as a +national trait, the appliances for which are so constantly at hand in +the form of lottery tickets and the cock-pits that they can hardly +escape the baleful influences. There are some who possess sufficient +strength of character and intelligence to avoid it altogether, but +with the majority it is the regular resort for each leisure hour. One +of their own statesmen, Castelar, told the Spaniards, not long since, +that gambling was the tax laid upon fools. + +Perhaps the best place at which to study the appearance and character +of the Monteros is at the Central Market, where they come daily by +hundreds from the country in the early morning to sell their produce, +accompanied by long lines of mules or horses with well-laden panniers. +It is a motley crowd that one meets there, where purchasers and +salesmen mingle promiscuously. From six to nine o'clock, A. M., it is +the busiest place in all Havana. Negroes and mulattoes, Creoles and +Spaniards, Chinamen and Monteros, men and women, beggars, purchasers, +and slaves, all come to the market on the Calzada de la Reina. Here +the display of fruits and vegetables is something marvelous, both in +variety and in picturesqueness of arrangement. This locality is the +natural resort of the mendicants, who pick up a trifle in the way of +provisions from one and another, as people who do not feel disposed to +bestow money will often give food to the indigent. This market was the +only place in the city where it was possible to purchase flowers, but +here one or two humble dealers came at early morn to dispose of such +buds and blossoms as they found in demand. A blind Chinese coolie was +found sitting on the sidewalk every morning, at the corner of the +Calzada de la Reina, just opposite the market, and he elicited a +trifle from us now and again. One morning a couple of roses and a +sprig of lemon verbena were added to his small gratuity. The effect +upon that sightless countenance was electrical, and the poor +mendicant, having only pantomime with which to express his delight, +seemed half frantic. The money fell to the ground, but the flowers +were pressed passionately to his breast. + +Did it remind him, we thought, of perfumes which had once delighted +his youthful senses in far-off Asia, before he had been decoyed to a +foreign land and into semi-slavery, to be deprived of health, liberty, +sight, hope, everything? + +The Cuban beggars have a dash of originality in their ideas as to the +successful prosecution of their calling; we mean those "native and to +the manor born." Some of them possess two and even three cadaverous +dogs, taught to follow closely at their heels, as they wander about, +and having the same shriveled-up, half-starved aspect as their +masters. One beggar, who was quite a cripple, had his daily seat in a +sort of wheelbarrow, at the corner of Paseo Street, opposite the Plaza +de Isabella. This man was always accompanied by a parrot of gaudy +plumage, perched familiarly on his shoulder. Now and then the cripple +put some favorite bird-food between his own lips, which the parrot +extracted and appropriated with such promptness as to indicate a good +appetite. Another solicitor of alms, quite old and bent, had an +amusing companion in a little gray squirrel, with a collar and string +attached, the animal being as mischievous as a monkey, now and then +hiding in one of the mendicant's several pockets, sometimes coming +forth to crack and eat a nut upon his owner's shoulder. A blind +beggar, of Creole nationality, sat all day long in the hot sun, on the +Alameda de Paula near the Hotel San Carlos, whose companion was a +chimpanzee monkey. The little half-human creature held out its hand +with a piteous expression to every passer-by, and deposited whatever +he received in his master's pocket. These pets serve to attract +attention, if not commiseration, and we observed that the men did not +beg in vain. + +The acme of originality, however, was certainly reached in the case of +a remarkable Creole beggar whose regular post is on the west corner of +the Central Market. This man is perhaps thirty-five or forty years of +age, and possesses a fine head, a handsome face, and piercing black +eyes. He is of small body, and his lower limbs are so withered as to +be entirely useless; so he sits with them curled up in a low, broad +basket, in which he is daily brought to the spot, locomotion in his +case being out of the question. He wears the cleanest of linen, and +his faultless cuffs and ruffled shirt-bosom are decked with solid gold +studs. He is bareheaded, but his thick black hair is carefully +dressed, and parted with mathematical precision in the middle. He +wears neither coat nor vest, but his lower garments are neatly adapted +to his deformity, and are of broadcloth. This man does not utter a +word, but extends his hand pleasantly, with an appealing look from his +handsome eyes, which often elicits a silver real from the passer-by. +We acknowledge to having been thus influenced more than once, in our +morning walks, by a sympathy which it would be difficult to analyze. +We had seen a colored dude selling canes at Nassau, but a dude +mendicant, and a cripple at that, was a physical anomaly. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from St. + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. + + +The first sugar plantation established in Cuba was in 1595, nearly +three hundred years since. These plantations are the least attractive +in external appearance, but the most profitable pecuniarily, of all +agricultural investments in the tropics, though at the present writing +there is a depression in prices of sugar which has brought about a +serious complication of affairs. The markets of the world have become +glutted with the article, owing to the enormous over-production in +Europe from the beet. The plantations devoted to the raising of the +sugar-cane in Cuba spread out their extensive fields, covered with the +corn-like stalks, without any relief to the eye, though here and there +the graceful feathery branches of the palm are seen. The fields are +divided off into squares of three or four acres each, between which a +roadway is left for ox-teams to pass for gathering purposes. On some +of the largest estates tramways have been laid, reaching from the +several sections of the plantation to the doors of the grinding-mill. +A mule, by this means, is enabled to draw as large a load as a pair +of oxen on plain ground, and with much more ease and promptness. + +About the houses of the owner and the overseer, graceful fruit trees, +such as bananas and cocoanuts, with some flowering and fragrant +plants, are grouped, forming inviting shade and producing a +picturesque effect. Not far away, the low cabins of the blacks are +half hidden by plantain and mango trees, surrounded by cultivated +patches devoted to yams, sweet potatoes, and the like. Some of the +small gardens planted by these dusky Africans showed judgment and +taste in their management. Chickens and pigs, which were the private +property of the negroes, were cooped up just behind the cabins. Many +of these plantations employ from four to five hundred blacks, and in +some instances the number will reach seven hundred on extensive +estates, though the tendency of the new and improved machinery is to +constantly reduce the number of hands required, and to increase the +degree of intelligence necessary in those employed. Added to these +employees there must also be many head of cattle,--oxen, horses, and +mules. The annual running expenditure of one of these large estates +will reach two hundred thousand dollars, more or less, for which +outlay there is realized, under favorable circumstances, a million +five hundred thousand pounds of sugar, worth, in good seasons, five +cents per pound at the nearest shipping point. + +There are a few of the small estates which still employ ox-power for +grinding the cane, but American steam-engines have almost entirely +taken the place of animal power; indeed, as we have shown, it will no +longer pay to produce sugar by the primitive processes. This creates +a constant demand for engineers and machinists, for whom the Cubans +depend upon this country. We were told that there were not less than +two hundred Bostonians at the present time thus engaged on Cuban +estates. A Spaniard or Creole would as soon attempt to fly like a bird +as to learn how to run a steam-engine or regulate a line of shafting. +It requires more intelligence and mechanical skill, as a rule, than +the most faithful slaves possess. A careful calculation shows that in +return for the services of this small band of employees taken from our +shores, this country takes eighty per cent. of all the sugar produced +upon the island! Twelve per cent. is consumed by peninsular Spain, +thus leaving but eight per cent. of this product for distribution +elsewhere. + +During the grinding season, which begins about the first of December +and ends in April, a large, well-managed sugar plantation in Cuba is a +scene of the utmost activity and most unremitting labor. Time is +doubly precious during the harvesting period, for when the cane is +ripe there should be no delay in expressing the juice. If left too +long in the field it becomes crystallized, deteriorating both in its +quality and in the amount of juice which is obtained. The oxen +employed often die before the season is at an end, from overwork +beneath a torrid sun. The slaves are allowed but four or five hours +sleep out of the twenty-four, and being worked by watches during the +night, the mill does not lie idle for an hour after it is started +until the grinding season is closed. If the slaves are thus driven +during this period, throughout the rest of the year their task is +comparatively light, and they may sleep ten hours out of the +twenty-four, if they choose. According to the Spanish slave +code,--always more or less of a dead letter,--the blacks can be kept +at work in Cuba only from sunrise to sunset, with an interval of two +hours for repose and food in the middle of the day. But this is not +regarded in the sugar harvest season, which period, after all, the +slaves do not seem so much to dread, for then they are granted more +privileges and are better fed, given more variety of food and many +other little luxuries which they are known to prize. + +On Sunday afternoons and evenings on most of the plantations the +slaves are given their time, and are permitted, even in the harvest +season, to amuse themselves after their own chosen fashion. On such +occasions the privilege is often improved by the blacks to indulge in +native African dances, crude and rude enough, but very amusing to +witness. The music for the dancers is supplied by a home-made drum, +and by that alone, the negro who plays it being to the lookers-on +quite as much of a curiosity as those who perform the grotesque +dances. This humble musician writhes, wriggles, twists himself like a +corkscrew, and all the while beats time, accompanying his notes with +cries and howls, reminding one of the Apache Indian when engaged in a +war dance. It is astonishing to witness to what a degree of excitement +this negro drummer will work himself up, often fairly frothing at the +mouth. A buxom wench and her mate step forward and perform a wild, +sensuous combination of movements, a sort of negro can-can, like those +dancing girls one sees in India, striving to express sentiments of +love, jealousy, and passion by their pantomime, though these negroes +are far less refined in their gestures. When these two are exhausted, +others take their place, with very similar movements. The same +drummer labors all the while, perspiring copiously, and seeming to get +his full share of satisfaction out of the queer performance. This is +almost their only amusement, though the Chinese coolies who have been +distributed upon the plantations have taught the negroes some of their +queer games, one, particularly, resembling dominoes. The author saw a +set of dominoes made out of native ebony wood by an African slave, +which were of finer finish than machinery turns out, delicately inlaid +with ivory from alligators' teeth, indicating the points upon each +piece. We were told that the only tool the maker had with which to +execute his delicate task was a rude jack-knife. We have said that the +negroes find in the singular dance referred to their one amusement, +but they sometimes engage among themselves in a game of ball, after a +fashion all their own, which it would drive a Yankee base-ball player +frantic to attempt to analyze. + +The sugar-cane yields but one crop in a year. There are several +varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally +cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to +warrant the getting-up of steam at the grinding-mill and the time when +the heat and the rain spoil its qualities, all the sugar for the +season must be made; hence the necessity for great industry on the +large estates. In Louisiana the grinding season lasts but about eight +weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar +produced on the island and comparing it with that of the +mainland,--the growth of Louisiana,--chemists could find no difference +as to the quality of the true saccharine principle contained in each. +The Cuban sugar, compared with beet-sugar, however, is said to yield +of saccharine matter one quarter more in any given quantity. + +In society the sugar planter holds a higher rank than the coffee +planter, as we have already intimated; merely in the scale of wealth, +however, for it requires five times the capital to carry on a sugar +estate that would serve for a coffee estate. Some of the large sugar +plantations have been owned and carried on by Jesuit priests--we were +about to write ex-Jesuit priests, but that would not be quite correct, +for once a member of this order one is bound to it for all time. The +priest or acknowledged member of the organization may be forced for +prudential reasons to temporarily change his occupation, but he cannot +sever himself from the responsibilities which he has once voluntarily +assumed. There was a time when much of the landed and fertile property +of the island was controlled by the Church,--in fact owned by it, +though often by very questionable titles. The original owners, under +cunning pressure, perhaps on a threatened death-bed, were induced to +will all to the Church; or as an act of deep penance for some crime +divulged at the confessional, they yielded up all. To preserve this +property and possibly to cause it to produce an income for the Church, +certain priests became active planters. Extreme ecclesiastic rule, as +has been said, is greatly modified in Spain and her colonies, the +natural reaction of the hateful days of the Inquisition. + +As the sugar plantation surpasses the coffee in wealth, so the coffee +estate surpasses the sugar in every natural beauty and attractiveness. +A coffee plantation, well and properly laid out, is one of the most +beautiful gardens that can well be conceived of, in its variety and +loveliness baffling description. An estate devoted to this purpose +usually covers a hundred acres, more or less, planted in regular +squares of one acre or thereabouts, intersected by broad alleys lined +with palms, mangoes, bananas, oranges, and other fruits; as the +coffee, unlike the sugar cane, requires partial protection from the +ardor of the sun. Mingled with the trees are lemons, limes, +pomegranates, Cape jasmines, and a species of wild heliotrope, +fragrant as the morning. Occasionally in the wide reach of the estate +there is seen a solitary, broad-spreading ceiba, in hermit-like +isolation from other trees, but shading a fragrant undergrowth. +Conceive of this beautiful arrangement, and then of the whole when in +flower; the coffee, with its milk-white blossoms, so abundant that it +seems as though a pure white cloud of snow had fallen there, and left +the rest of the vegetation fresh and green. Interspersed in these +fragrant alleys dividing the coffee plants is the red of the Mexican +rose, the flowering pomegranate, the yellow jasmine, and the large, +gaudy flower of the penon, shrouding its parent stem in a cloak of +scarlet. Here too are seen clusters of the graceful yellow flag, and +many wild flowers, unknown by name, entwining their tender stems about +the base of the fruit trees. In short, a coffee plantation is a +perfect floral paradise, full of fragrance and repose. + +The writer's experience was mainly gained at and about the estate of +the late Dr. Finley, a Scotch physician long resident upon the island. +He had named his plantation after the custom with a fancy title, and +called it Buena Esperanza. Here was seen the mignonette tree twenty +feet high, full of pale yellow and green blossoms, as fragrant as is +its little namesake, which we put in our conservatories. There were +also fuchsias, blue, red, yellow, and green, this last hue quite new +to us. The night-blooming cereus was in rank abundance, together with +the flor de pascua, or Easter flower, so lovely in its cream-colored, +wax-like blossom. The Indian poui, with its saffron-colored flowers, +was strikingly conspicuous, and there too was that pleasant little +favorite, the damask rose. It seemed as if all out-doors was an exotic +garden, full of marvelous beauty. What daily miracles nature is +performing under our only half-observant eyes! Behold, where the paths +intersect each other, a beautiful convolvulus has entwined itself +about that dead and decaying tree, clothing the gray old trunk with +pale but lovely flowers; just as we deck our human dead for the grave. + +It was the revolution in San Domingo which gave the first great +stimulus to the culture of the coffee plant in Cuba, an enterprise +which has gradually faded out in the last decade, though not +absolutely obliterated. The refugees from the opposite shore sought +shelter wherever they could find it among the nearest islands of the +Archipelago, and large numbers made their new homes in the eastern +department of Cuba, near the cities of Trinidad and Santiago. Here +they turned lands which had been idle for three and four centuries +into smiling gardens, and the production of the favorite berry became +very profitable for a series of years, many cargoes being shipped +annually to this country from the two ports just named. The production +of sugar, however, has always maintained precedence, dividing the +honor to-day only with tobacco in the manufactured state. Coffee does +not figure to any extent in the statistics of exports. Exorbitant +taxation and the cruel ravages of civil war, in the coffee districts +especially, are largely the cause of the loss of an important and +profitable industry. + +Some amusing experiments with a mimosa or sensitive plant served to +fill a leisure hour at Buena Esperanza, under our host's intelligent +direction. It grew wild and luxuriantly within a few feet of the broad +piazza of the country-house. Close by it was a morning-glory, which +was in remarkable fullness and freshness of bloom, its gay profuseness +of purple, pink, and variegated white making it indeed the glory of +the morning. It was a surprise to find the mimosa of such similar +habits with its neighbor, the morning-glory, regularly folding its +leaves and going to sleep when the shades of evening deepened, but +awaking bright and early with the first breath of the morn. So +sensitive is this most curious plant, so full of nerves, as our host +expressed it, that it would not only shrink instantly, like unveiled +modesty, at the touch of one's hand, but even at the near approach of +some special organisms, ere they had extended a hand towards it. Five +persons tried the experiment before the sixth illustrated the fact +that touch was not absolutely necessary to cause the leaves to shrivel +up or shrink through seeming fear. Our host even intimated that when +the mimosa had become familiar with a congenial person its timidity +would vanish, and it could be handled gently by that individual +without outraging its sensibility. Of this, however, we saw no +positive evidence. If Mr. Darwin had supplemented his chapters on the +monkey by a paper relating to the mimosa, he might possibly have +enabled us to find a mutual confirmation in them of some fine-spun +theory. + +The three great staple productions of Cuba are sugar, the sweetener; +coffee, the tonic; and tobacco, the narcotic of half the world. The +first of these, as we have shown, is the greatest source of wealth, +having also the preference as to purity and excellence over any other +saccharine production. Its manufacture also yields molasses, which +forms an important article of export, besides which a spirituous +liquor, called aguardiente, is distilled in considerable quantities +from the molasses. The cane, which grows to about the size of a large +walking-stick, or well-developed cornstalk, is cut off near the ground +and conveyed in the green state, though it is called ripe, to the +mill, where it is crushed to a complete pulp between stones or iron +rollers. After the juice is thus extracted the material left is spread +out in the sun to dry, and is after being thus "cured" used for fuel +beneath the steam-boilers, which afford both power to the engine and +the means of boiling the juice. Lime-water is employed to neutralize +any free acid as well as to separate the vegetable matter. The +granulation and crystallization are effected in large flat pans, or +now more commonly by centrifugal machines, rotating at great speed. It +is then crushed and packed either in hogsheads or in boxes for +exportation; canvas bags are also being largely employed, as they are +easier to pack on board ship, and also to handle generally. A +plantation is renewed when deemed necessary, by laying the green canes +horizontally in the ground, when new and vigorous shoots spring up +from every joint, showing the great fertility of the soil. + +Coffee was introduced by the French into Martinique in 1727, but it +did not make its appearance in Cuba until forty years later, or, to be +exact, in 1769. The decadence of this branch of agriculture is due +not only to the causes we have already named, but also to the inferior +mode of cultivation adopted on the island. It was predicted some years +before it commenced, and when the crash came the markets of the world +were also found to be greatly overstocked with the article. While some +planters introduced improved methods and economy in the conduct of +their estates, others abandoned the business altogether, and turned +their fields either into sugar-raising, fruits or tobacco. Precisely +the same trouble was experienced in the island of Ceylon, which was at +one time a great coffee-raising centre, but now its planters are many +of them abandoning the business, while others adopt new seed and new +methods of culture. In Cuba it was found that the plants had been +grown too closely together and subjected to too close pruning, while +the product, which was gathered by hand, yielded a mixture of ripe and +unripe berries. In the countries where coffee originated, a very +different method of harvesting is adopted. The Arabs plant the +coffee-shrubs much farther apart, allow them to grow to considerable +height, and gather the crop by shaking the tree, a method which +secures only the ripe berries. After a few weeks, or even days, the +field is gone over a second time, when the green berries have become +fit to gather, and readily fall to the ground. + +A coffee estate well managed, that is, combined with the rearing of +fruits and vegetables intermingled, thus affording the required shade +for the main crop, proves fairly profitable in Cuba to-day, and were +this industry not hampered and handicapped by excessive taxes, it +would attract many new planters. The coffee ripens from August to +December, the nuts then becoming about the size of our cherries. The +coffee-berry is the seed of the fruit, two of which are contained in +each kernel, having their flat surfaces together, surrounded by a soft +pulp. The ripe berries are dried by exposure to the sun's rays, then +bruised in a mill, by which means the seeds are separated from the +berry. They are then screened to cleanse them, after which they are +bagged, and the coffee is ready for market. Some planters take great +care to sort their crop by hand, in which operation the negro women +become very expert. By dividing the berries into first and second +qualities as to size and cleanliness, a better aggregated price is +realized for the entire harvest. Not only are the coffee estates much +more pleasing to the eye than the sugar plantations, but they are also +much more in harmony with the feelings of the philanthropist. There is +here no such exigency in getting in the harvest, leading to the +overwork of the slaves, as on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +Indeed, we were assured that it was quite possible to carry on a +coffee estate with white labor. When, heretofore, a negro has been +brought to the block in Havana, or any other Cuban city, the price +realized for him has always been materially affected by the question +whether he had been employed on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +If he had been thus employed it was considered that his life has been +unduly shortened, and he sold accordingly at a lower price. At the +present time few negroes are bought or sold, as their market value has +become merely nominal. There is no good reason why white labor is not +suited to the coffee and tobacco estates. When the field labor upon +the sugar estates is almost wholly performed by machinery, that is, +the cane cut by a reaper, there will be so much less exposure to the +sun that white hands, under proper management, can perform it. + +Tobacco, indigenous to both Cuba and the United States, is a great +source of revenue upon the island. Its cultivation involves +considerable labor and expense, as the soil must be carefully chosen +and prepared, and the crop is an exhaustive one to the land; but the +cultivation does not require machinery, like sugar-cane, nor quite so +much care as does the growing coffee. It is valued in accordance with +the locality from which it comes, some sections being especially +adapted to its production. That of the greatest market value, and used +in the manufacture of the highest-cost cigars, is grown in the most +westerly division of the island, known as the Vuelta de Abajo (Lower +Valley). The whole western portion of Cuba is not by any means +suitable to the production of tobacco. The region of the best tobacco +is comprised within a small parallelogram of very limited extent. +Beyond this, up to the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine +color, but of inferior aroma. From Consolacion to San Christoval the +tobacco is very "hot,"--to use a local phrase,--harsh, and strong, and +from San Christoval to Guanajay the quality is inferior up to Holguin +y Cuba, where better tobacco is produced. The fertile valley of Los +Guines produces poor smoking-tobacco, but an article excellent for the +manufacture of snuff. On the banks of the Rio San Sebastian, are also +some estates which produce the very best quality of tobacco. Thus +it will be seen that certain properties of soil operate more directly +in producing a fine grade of tobacco than any slight variation of +climate. Possibly a chemical analysis of the soil of the Vuelta de +Abajo would enable the intelligent cultivator to supply to other lands +the ingredients wanted to make them produce equally good tobacco. A +fairly marketable article, however, is grown in nearly any part of the +island. Its cultivation is thought to produce a full ten per cent. +upon the capital invested, the annual crop of Cuba being estimated in +value at about twenty-three million dollars. The number of tobacco +planters is said to be about fifteen thousand, large and small. On +many tobacco farms the labor is nearly all performed by white hands. +Some coolies and some negroes are also employed even on small estates. + +When it is remembered that so small a portion of the land is under +cultivation, and yet that Cuba exports annually a hundred million +dollars worth of sugar and molasses, besides coffee, tobacco, fruits, +and precious woods, it will be realized what might be accomplished, +under a liberal system of government, upon this gem of the Caribbean +Sea. Cacao, rice, plantains, indigo, and cotton, besides Indian corn +and many nutritious vegetables, might be profitably cultivated to a +much larger degree than is now done. It is a curious and remarkable +fact, suggesting a striking moral, that with the inexhaustible +fertility of the soil, with an endless summer that gives the laborer +two and even three crops a year, agriculture generally yields in Cuba +a lower percentage of profit than in our stern Northern latitudes, +where the farmer has to wrench, as it were, the half-reluctant crop +from the ground. It must be remembered that in Cuba there are numerous +fruits and vegetables not enumerated in these pages, which do not +enter into commerce, and which spring spontaneously from the fertile +soil. In the possession of a thrifty population the island would be +made to blossom like a rose, but as it now is, it forms only a garden +growing wild, cultivated here and there in patches. None of the fine +natural fruits have ever been improved by careful culture and the +intelligent selection of kinds, so that in many respects they will not +compare in perfection with our average strawberries, plums, pears, and +peaches. Their unfulfilled possibilities remain to be developed by +intelligent treatment. + +The plantain, which may be said to be the bread of the common people, +requires to be planted but once. The stem bears freely, like the +banana of the same family, at the end of eight months, and then +withering to the ground renews itself again from the roots. Sweet +potatoes once planted require care only to prevent their too great +luxuriance, and for this purpose a plough is passed through them +before the wet season, and as many of the vines as can be freely +plucked up are removed from the field. The sugar-cane, on virgin soil, +will last and prove productive for twenty years. The coffee shrub or +tree will bear luxuriantly for forty or fifty years. The cocoanut palm +is peculiar to all tropical climates, and in Cuba, as in the Malacca +Straits and India, bears an important share in sustaining the life of +the people, supplying milk, shade, and material for a hundred domestic +uses. It grows in luxuriant thriftiness all over the island, in high +and low land, in forests, and down to the very shore washed by the +Gulf Stream. It is always graceful and picturesque, imparting an +oriental aspect to everything which surrounds it. It is estimated +that over ten million acres of native forests, covered by valuable +wood, still remain untouched by the woodman's axe, especially on and +about the mountain range, which extends nearly the entire length of +the island, like the vertebræ of an immense whale. + +About the coffee plantations, and indeed throughout the rural portions +of the country, there is a curious little insect called a cocuyo, +answering in its general characteristics and nature to our firefly, +though it is quadruple its size, and far the most brilliant insect of +its kind known to naturalists. They float in phosphorescent clouds +over the vegetation, emitting a lurid halo, like fairy torch-bearers +to elfin crews. One at first sight is apt to compare them to a shower +of stars. They come in multitudes immediately after the wet season +sets in, prevailing more or less, however, all the year round. Their +advent is always hailed with delight by the slave children, as well as +by children of a larger growth. They are caught by the slaves in any +desired numbers and confined in tiny cages of wicker, giving them +sufficient light in their cabins at night for ordinary purposes, and +forming the only artificial light permitted them. We have seen a +string of the little cages containing the glittering insects hung in a +slave-cabin in festoons, like colored lamps in fancy-goods stores in +America. The effect of the evanescent light thus produced is very +peculiar, but the number of insects employed insures a sufficiently +steady effect for ordinary purposes. These little creatures are +brought into Havana by young Creole children and by women, for sale to +the ladies, who sometimes in the evenings wear a small cage hung to +the wrist containing a few of the cocuyos, and the light thus produced +is nearly equal to a small candle. Some ladies wear a belt of them at +night, ingeniously fastened about the waist, others a necklace, and +the effect is highly amusing. In the ballroom they are worn in the +flounces of ladies' dresses, where they glisten very much like +diamonds and other precious stones. Strange to say, there is a natural +hook near the head of the firefly, by which it can be attached to the +dress without apparent injury to it. The town ladies keep little cages +of these insects as pets, feeding them on sugar, of which they appear +to be immoderately fond. On the plantations, when a fresh supply is +desired, one has only to wait until evening, when hundreds can be +secured with a thread net at the end of a pole. By holding a cocuyo up +in the out-door air for a few moments, large numbers are at once +attracted to the spot. In size they are about an inch long, and a +little over an eighth of an inch in breadth. + +There is an insidious and much dreaded insect with which the planters +have to contend on the sugar and coffee plantations, but which is not +met with in the cities; namely, the red ant, a much more formidable +foe than any one not acquainted with its ravages would believe. These +little creatures possess a power altogether out of proportion to their +insignificant size, eating into the heart of the hardest wood, neither +cedar, iron-wood, nor even lignum-vitæ being proof against them. They +are not seen at the surface, as they never touch the outer shell of +the wood whose heart they are consuming. A beam or rafter which has +been attacked by them looks as good as when new, to the casual +observer, until it is sounded and found to be hollow, a mere shell in +fact. Even in passing from one piece of timber to another, the red +ant does so by covered ways, and is thus least seen when most busy. +The timbers of an entire roof have been found hollowed out and +deprived entirely of their supporting strength without the presence of +the insect enemy being even suspected until chance betrayed the +useless character of the supports. For some unknown reason, upright +timbers are rarely attacked by them, but those in a reclining or +horizontal position are their choice. These destructive red ants are +nearly always to be found in tropical countries, as in India, Batavia, +and Sumatra, where they build mounds in the jungle half the size of +the natives' cabins. They may be seen marching like an invading army +in columns containing myriads across the fields of southern India. + +The interior landscape, more particularly of the middle district of +the island, is here and there ornamented by fine specimens of the +ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, which is often seen a hundred feet in +height, with stout and widespread branches, giving the idea of great +firmness and stability. It sends up a massive sinewy trunk for some +fifty feet, when it divides into branches covered with a dense canopy +of leaves, expanded like an umbrella, and forming a perfect shade +against the power of the torrid sun. The ceiba is slow of growth, but +attains to great age, specimens thriving when Columbus first landed +here being, as we were assured, still extant. Next to the royal palm, +it is the most remarkable of all the trees which loom up beneath the +brilliant purple skies of Cuba. The negroes have a superstition that +the ceiba is a magic tree haunted by spirits, a singular notion also +shared by the colored people of Nassau, though these two islands are +so many hundreds of miles apart and have never had any natural +connection. There is certainly something weird in the loneliness and +solitary grandeur of the tree. Next to the palm and ceiba in beauty +and picturesqueness of effect is the tamarind tree, with its deep +green and delicate foliage, presenting a singular and curious aspect +when thickly looped on every branch with hanging chocolate-colored +pods. + +Under the noonday sun, sitting in the deep shade of some lofty ceiba, +one may watch with curious eyes the myriads of many-hued, broad-winged +butterflies, mingling orange, crimson, and steel-blue in dazzling +combinations, as they flit through the ambient atmosphere with a +background of shining, evergreen foliage, the hum of insects and the +carol of birds forming a soft lullaby inviting sleep. Naturalists tell +us that no less than three hundred distinct species of butterflies are +found in Cuba, ranging in size from a common house-fly to a +humming-bird. The day dies with a suddenness almost startling, so that +one passes from sunshine to starlight as if by magic. Then the cocuyo +takes up the activity of insect life, flashing its miniature torches +over the plantations, and peeping out from among the dense foliage, +while the stars sing their evening hymn of silent praise. + +The Cubans have a peculiar mode of harnessing their oxen, similar to +that seen in the far East and also in some parts of Europe, as at San +Sebastian, on the Bay of Biscay. A stout wooden bar is placed at the +root of the horns, and so securely bound to them with thongs that the +animal draws, or rather pushes, by the head and frontlet, without +chafing. The Cuban oxen have a hole pierced in their nostrils, through +which a metallic ring is secured, and to this a rope is attached, +serving as reins with which to guide the animal. This mode of +harnessing certainly seems to enable the oxen to bring more strength +to bear upon the purpose for which they are employed than when the +yoke is placed, as is the case with us, about the throat and +shoulders. The greatest power of horned animals undoubtedly lies in +the head and neck, and the question arises whether in placing the yoke +on the neck and breast we do not get it out of reach of the exercise +of that strength, and cause the animal to draw the load behind him by +the mere force of his bodily weight and impetus. The West Indian +animal is small, and often of the cream-colored breed, mild-eyed and +docile, of which one sees such choice specimens in Italy and +especially on the plains of Lombardy. + +Not quite satisfied with the conclusion first arrived at, we gave this +subject of the harnessing of oxen a second consideration, and in +carefully watching the operation of the frontlet-bar we detected at +least one very cruel and objectionable feature in this mode of +harnessing. The animals are necessarily so bound to the bar that to +move their heads one way or the other is a simple impossibility, while +our mode of yoking oxen leaves them very much at liberty in the use of +their heads, thus enabling them to shake off flies and other biting +insects which may tease them, whereas the eyes of a Cuban ox are often +seen infested with flies which he cannot get rid of while in harness, +however he may be beset by them. This alone, in a climate where biting +insects swarm all the year round, is a most serious objection to the +frontlet-bar as compared with the yoke. + +The Cuban horse deserves more than a mere mention in this connection. +He is a remarkably valuable animal, especially adapted to the climate +and to the service required of him. Though small and delicate of limb +he can carry a great weight, and his gait is not unlike that of our +pacing horses, though with much less lateral motion, and is remarkably +easy for the rider, certainly forming the easiest gait combined with +rapidity of motion possessed by any breed. He has great power of +endurance, is a small eater, requiring no grain as a general thing, +but is satisfied with the green leaves and stalks of the corn, upon +which he keeps in good condition and flesh. He is a docile little +creature, easily taught and easily taken care of. The Cuban horse +knows no shelter except the heavens above him, for there are no barns +in Cuba; but he will no more wander away from his master's door, where +he stands at nearly all hours of the day with the saddle on his back, +than would a favorite dog. The Montero inherits all the love of his +Moorish ancestors for the horse, and never stirs abroad except upon +his back. He considers himself established for life when he possesses +a good horse, a sharp Toledo blade, and a pair of silver spurs. Being +from childhood accustomed to the saddle, it is natural for him to be a +good rider, and there are none better even in Arabia. He is apt to +tell big stories about his little horse, intimating its descent direct +from the Kochlani, or King Solomon's breed, and to endow it with +marvelous qualities of speed and endurance. The Montero is never heard +to boast of his wife, his children, or any other possession, but he +does "blow" for his horse. + +One of this class stood beside his pony one warm afternoon opposite +the Hotel Telegrafo, where a few of the guests were seated under the +broad veranda. The sleek, well-formed animal elicited some +complimentary remarks, which gratified the owner, who spoke English +after the style of his people. He indulged in praises of the horse, +especially as to the ease and steadiness of his gait, and offered a +bet that he could ride round the outside of the Campo de Marte on him +and return to the spot where he stood, at ordinary speed, carrying a +full glass of water without spilling a tablespoonful of the liquid; +such is the ease of motion of these animals trained to what is called +the paso gualtrapeo. Four corners were to be turned by the Cuban, as +well as half a mile of distance accomplished. The small bet suggested +was readily taken, and the full tumbler of water brought out of the +house. The Cuban mounted his pony and rode round the park with the +speed of a bird, easily winning his bet. + +The visitor, as he proceeds inland, will frequently observe on the +fronts of the dwellings attempts at representations in colors of birds +and various animals, resembling anything rather than what they are +apparently designed to depict. The most striking characteristics are +the gaudy coloring and the remarkable size. Pigeons present the +colossal appearance of ostriches, and dogs are exceedingly elephantine +in their proportions. Space would not be adequate to picture horses +and cattle. Especially in the suburbs of the cities this fancy may be +observed, where attempts at portraying domestic scenes present some +original ideas as to grouping. If such ludicrous objects were to be +met with anywhere else but in Cuba they would be called caricatures. +Here they are regarded with the utmost complacency, and innocently +considered to be artistic and ornamental. Noticing something of the +same sort in Vevay, Switzerland, not long since, the author found on +inquiry that it was the incipient art effort of a Spanish Creole, who +had wandered thither from the island. + +The policy of the home government has been to suppress, so far as +possible, all knowledge of matters in general relating to Cuba; +especially to prevent the making public of any statistical information +regarding the internal resources, all accounts of its current growth, +prosperity, or otherwise. Rigidly-enforced rules accomplished this +seclusiveness for many years, until commercial relations with the +"outside barbarians" rendered this no longer possible. No official +chart of Havana, its harbor, or that of any other Cuban city has ever +been made public. Spain has seemed to desire to draw a curtain before +this tropical jewel, lest its dazzling brightness should tempt the +cupidity of some other nation. Notwithstanding this, our war +department at Washington contains complete drawings of every important +fortification, and charts of every important harbor in Cuba. Since +1867 we have been connected with Cuba by submarine cable, and through +her with Jamaica since 1870. The local government exercises, however, +strict surveillance over telegraphic communications. + +The political condition of Cuba is what might be expected of a +Castilian colony, ruled and governed by such a policy as prevails +here. Like the home government, she presents a remarkable instance of +the standstill policy, and from one of the most powerful and wealthy +kingdoms of Europe, Spain has sunk to the position of the humblest and +poorest. Other nations have labored and succeeded in the race of +progress, while her adherence to ancient institutions and her +dignified contempt for "modern innovations" have become a species of +retrogression, which has placed her far below all her sister +governments. The true Hidalgo spirit, which wraps itself up in an +antique garb and shrugs its shoulders at the advance of other nations, +still rules over the realm of Ferdinand and Isabella, while its +high-roads swarm with gypsies and banditti, as tokens of decaying +power. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of St. Domingo. -- General Emancipation. + + +The consumption of tobacco in the form of cigars is almost incredibly +large in Cuba, and for the city of Havana alone it has been estimated +to amount to an aggregate cost of five million dollars per annum. +Every man, woman, and child appears to be addicted to the habit. It +strikes a Northerner as rather odd for a lady to sit smoking her +cigarette in her parlor, but this is not at all rare. The men of all +degrees smoke everywhere, in the dwelling-house, in the street, in the +theatre, in the cafés, and in the counting-room; eating, drinking, +and truly it would also seem, sleeping, they smoke, smoke, smoke. At +the tables d'hôte of the hotels it is not unusual to see a Cuban take +a few whiffs of a cigarette between the several courses, and lights +are burning close at hand to enable him to do so. If a party of +gentlemen are invited to dine together, the host so orders that a +packet of the finest cigarettes is frequently passed to his guests, +with a lighted taper, in the course of the meal, and at its close some +favorite brand of the more substantial cigar is furnished to all. +Thus, tobacco is consumed on every occasion, in the council-chamber, +the court, at funerals, in the domestic circles, at feasts, and on the +out-door drive. The slave and his master, the maid and her mistress, +boy and man, all, all smoke. It seems odd that one does not scent +Havana far out at sea before the land is sighted. + +We were told that gentlemen who have the means to procure them smoke +on an average what is equivalent to a dozen cigars per day, and those +of the other sex addicted to the habit consume half that quantity. Of +late the larger proportion, however, takes the form of cigarettes, +which are far more subtle in effect when used to excess. The +consequence of this large home consumption, in addition to the export +of the article, is that a very numerous class of the population is +engaged in the manufacture, and little stores devoted solely to this +business are plentifully sprinkled all about the metropolis. The +imperial factory of La Honradez, already described, occupies a whole +city square, and is one of its curiosities, producing from three to +four million cigarettes per diem. This house enjoys special +governmental protection, and makes its annual contribution to the +royal household of Madrid of the best of its manufactured goods. A +snuff-taker is rarely to be met with, and few, if any, chew the weed, +if we except the stevedores and foreign sailors to be seen about the +shore and shipping. Havana has no wharves, properly speaking; vessels +are loaded and discharged by means of lighters or scows. The negroes +become passionately fond of the pipe, inhaling into their lungs the +rich, powerful narcotic and driving it out again at their nostrils in +slow, heavy clouds, half dozing over the dreamy effect. The postilion +who waits for a fare upon the street passes half his time in this way, +dreaming over his pipe of pure Havana, or renewing constantly his +cigarette. The price of manufactured tobacco in Cuba is about one half +that which we pay for the same article in America, either at wholesale +or retail, as shipping expenses, export duty, and import duty must be +added to the price charged to the consumer. + +In discussing this habit one naturally looks back about four hundred +years, recalling the amazement of the Spanish discoverers, when they +first landed here, at seeing the Indians smoking a native weed which +was called tobacco. The practice was, at that time, entirely unknown +in Europe, though now indulged in as a luxury by nearly half the +population of the globe. + +We have only a partial idea at the North of the true character of +tropical fruits, since only a small portion of them are of such a +nature as to admit of exportation, and such as are forwarded to us +must be gathered in an unripe condition in order to survive a short +sea-voyage. The orange which we eat in Boston or New York, therefore, +is a very different-flavored fruit from the same when partaken of in +Havana or Florida. The former has been picked green and ripened on +shipboard, as a general thing; the latter was perhaps on the tree an +hour before you ate it, ripened under its native skies and upon its +parent stem. So of the banana, one of the most delightful and +nutritious of all West Indian fruits, which grows everywhere in Cuba +with prodigal profuseness,--though we are told that as regards this +fruit it is claimed that, like some varieties of our pear, it ripens +as well off the tree as on it; and the same is the case with some +other fleshy fruits. After the banana has attained its full growth, +the final process of ripening commences, as it were, within itself; +that is to say, the fruit ceases to depend upon the tree for +sustenance or farther development. The pulp becomes gradually +sweetened and softened, chiefly by the change of the starch into more +or less of soluble sugar. When the bananas are shipped to our Northern +markets they are as green as the leaves of the trees on which they +grew. Most of us have seen cartloads of them in this condition landing +at our city wharves. Placed in an even temperature and in darkness +they will ripen and become as yellow as gold in a very few days. + +The banana and plantain differ from each other much as an apple and a +potato differ; the latter should always be cooked before eating, but +the former may be either eaten raw or cooked, according to the taste. +The banana is gathered at three different stages of its growth. At a +quarter of its maturity it is rather milky, and contains much starch. +Roasted in ashes, or boiled in water, it forms a very nourishing food, +and is a good substitute for bread. If eaten at three fourths of its +growth it is less nourishing, but contains more sugar. Lastly, when +perfectly ripe, it develops an acrid principle, both wholesome and +palatable. The fig banana is a favorite species, and forms a universal +dessert in the ripe state with the Creoles. A frequent reference is +made to it in these notes because of its importance. The enormous +productiveness of the plant and its nutritious character assure to the +humble classes an abundant subsistence. People may go freely into the +wild lands and find edible bananas at any time, without money and +without price. In the cities the charge for them is so moderate that a +person must be poor indeed who cannot afford a liberal quantity of +them daily. + +Some of the other fruits are the mango, pomegranate, pineapple, +zapota, tamarind, citron, fig, cocoa, lemon, rose-apple, and +breadfruit. Japan, India, and Ceylon afford nothing more fascinating +or strange in their vegetable kingdoms than this favored isle. The +fruits are simply wonderful in variety and perfection. One eats eggs, +custard, and butter off the trees. Though all these fruits are +universally eaten, the orange seems to be the Creole's favorite, and +if he be a person of even ordinary means, he seldom rises in the +morning until he has drunk his cup of coffee and eaten a couple of +oranges, brought fresh and prepared for him by a servant. The practice +is one into which the visitor falls very pleasantly, and finds it no +less refreshing than agreeable. It seems to rain oranges in Havana. +They are scarcely less cheap than the luscious banana. + +The rose-apple grows on one of the most symmetrical trees in Cuba, +with strong, oval, glossy leaves. The blossoms are large, white, and +of pleasant odor, followed by a round fruit about as large as a +well-developed California peach, with a smooth skin, cream-colored +within and without. The pulp is as firm as a ripe seckel pear, and the +taste is so strong of otto-of-rose that more than one at a time palls +upon the palate. It is much used among the Cubans as an agreeable +flavoring for soups and puddings. Of the fruit trees the lemon is +perhaps the most attractive to the eye; for though small and dwarfish, +yet it presents the flowers, small green lemons, and the ripe yellow +fruit all together, reminding one of the Eastern alma. The green +leaves when young are nearly as fragrant as the lemon verbena. + +The mammee is a curious fruit growing on lofty, umbrageous trees, +appearing as musk-melons would look if seen hanging in elm-trees. +Large and high-flavored, the fruit is solid in texture like the +American quince. The flavor of the mammee resembles our peach, though +not quite so delicate. Its color when ripe is a light yellow. + +The mango is nearly as abundant and prolific as the banana, and yet it +came originally from the far East. It grows upon a very handsome tree, +the leaves being long, lanceolate, polished, and hanging in dense +masses of dark-green foliage. In size it is like a full-grown New +England apple tree. The mango is about thrice the size of an egg plum, +and when ripe is yellow in color, and grows in long pendant bunches. +When this fruit is at its best it is very juicy, and may be sucked +away like a grape. The negroes are immoderately fond of it, and when +permitted to do so are apt to make themselves ill by their greediness. + +The cocoa-nut tree grows to the height of fifty feet and more, +differing from the royal palm by its drooping nature. At its summit is +a waving tuft of dark green, glossy, pinnate leaves, from ten to +fifteen feet in length, like mammoth plumes, immediately under which +are suspended the nuts in heavy bunches, often weighing three hundred +pounds. When the nut has attained nearly its full size, it is said to +be in the milk, and it then furnishes a delightful, cooling, and +healthful beverage. In taste it is sweetish, and its effect is that of +a slight diuretic. + +The sapotilla is a noble fruit tree, with feathery, glossy leaves. The +blossoms are white and bell-shaped, with an agreeable perfume like an +apple-blossom. The fruit is round, about the size of a peach, the +skin being rough and dark like a russet apple or a potato, but when +fully ripe it is delicious, and melts away in the mouth like a +custard. + +The pineapple, that king of fruits, though in itself presenting such a +fine appearance, is the plainest of all in its humble manner of +growth. It is found wild in Cuba, and there are several varieties +cultivated, none quite equal, it seemed to us, to those found in +Singapore and other equatorial islands. Its style of growth is the +same in either hemisphere. It grows singly upon its low stem, reaching +to a height of eighteen or twenty inches above the ground. A single +fruit-stem pushes up from the earth, blossoms, and in about eighteen +months from the planting it matures a single apple, weighing three or +four pounds and upwards; and what a royal fruit it is! A field well +covered with the yellow, ripening apples is a very beautiful sight. +Though the plant produces but one apple at a time, it will continue to +yield an annual crop for three or four years, if cultivated. It is +raised from slips, planted much as our farmers set out young cabbages +or lettuce. + +The custard-apple grows wild, but is also cultivated and thereby much +improved. Its color externally is green, and it has a tough skin, is +of a subacid flavor, and as full of little flat black seeds as a shad +is of bones. It is much used in Cuba for flavoring purposes, and is +soft and juicy, each specimen weighing from a pound to a pound and a +half. The star-apple is so called because when cut through +transversely its centre presents the figure of a star. Even when quite +ripe the interior is green in color. Its flavor is exquisite, like +strawberries and cream, and it is eaten with a spoon, the outside +skin forming as it were a shell or cup. + +The guava tree is small and resembles our young cherry trees. The +fruit is about the size of the lime, which it much resembles. It is +made little use of in its natural condition, but is in universal +demand as a preserve; the jelly made from it is famous all over the +world. When it is freshly cut, one will scent a whole room for hours +with its distinctive flavor. + +The pomegranate, a general favorite in the torrid zone, flourishes in +Cuba, but is seen in much greater perfection in Africa. It is doubtful +if it is indigenous here, though it is now found in such abundance, +and as much depended upon for a food supply as apples are with us. +Doubtless the reader has seen the bush in bearing in our hothouses, +the fruit when cut being full of red seeds glistening like rubies. + +The tamarind is a universal and thrifty tree in the island, lofty and +umbrageous, a quick grower and yet long-lived. The fruit is contained +in a pod,--like a full, ripe pea-pod,--covering mahogany-colored +seeds. The pulp when ripe and fresh is as soft as marmalade, and quite +palatable; its flavor is sugared acid. Steeped in water it forms a +delightful and cooling beverage, much used as a drink in the tropics. + +The orange, lime, lemon, and citron are too well known to require +detailed description. The wild or bitter orange is much used for +hedges: its deep green glossy foliage and its fragrant blossoms and +its golden fruit make such hedges strikingly effective. The rind of +the bitter orange is used to make a sweetmeat with which we are all +familiar. + +More than once the Moorish garden of the Alcazar, at Seville, and the +garden of Hesperides, at Cannes, were recalled in hours of delightful +wanderings among the orange groves of Cuba. Yet these latter are +neglected, or at least not generously cultivated, no such care being +given to them as is bestowed upon the orange orchards of Florida; but +the glowing sun and ardent breath of the tropics ask little aid from +the hand of man in perfecting their products. The fruits and flowers +of the American Archipelago--"air-woven children of light"--are not +only lavishly prolific, but perfect of their kind. No wonder that +scientists and botanists become poetical in their descriptions of +these regions. + +The royal palm, so often alluded to, grows to the height of seventy +feet, more or less. It is singular that it should have no substance in +the interior of its trunk, though the outside to the thickness of a +couple of inches makes the finest of boards, and when seasoned is so +hard as to turn a board-nail at a single stroke of the hammer. It is +remarkable also that a palm tree which grows so high has such tiny, +thread-like roots, which, however, are innumerable. The top of the +palm yields a vegetable which is used as food and when boiled is +nutritious and palatable, resembling our cauliflower. Though there are +many species of palm in Cuba, one seldom sees the fan-palm, which +forms such a distinctive feature in equatorial regions as at Penang +and Singapore. + +Humboldt thought that the entire island was once a forest of palms, +mingled with lime and orange trees. The mulberry tree, if not +indigenous, was found here at so early a period that it is a matter of +doubt as to its having been imported from other lands. It grows to +great perfection, and has led to several attempts in the direction of +silk-raising, the silkworm also proving more prolific even than in +Japan. Some of the fine, hard fancy woods of Cuba were employed in the +finish of apartments in the Escurial palace near Madrid. Ebony, +rosewood, fustic, lancewood, mahogany, and other choice woods are very +abundant, especially the mahogany, which grows to enormous size. The +exportation of them has only taken place where these woods were best +located for river transportation to harbors on the coast. The interior +of the island is so inaccessible that it has hardly been explored. +There are fertile valleys there of two hundred miles in length and +thirty in width, with an average temperature of 75°, a maximum of 88°, +and a minimum of 52°, thus affording a most perfect and healthful +climate, favorable to human and to vegetable life, and it should be +remembered that malarial diseases or yellow fever are unknown in the +districts removed from the coast, and no one ever heard of sunstroke +in Cuba. + +It is somewhat remarkable that there should be no poisonous animals or +reptiles in the island, but so we were creditably informed. Snakes of +various species abound, but are considered entirely harmless, though +they are sometimes destructive to domestic fowls. During a pleasant +trip between San Antonio and Alquizar in a volante with a hospitable +planter of that region, this subject happened to be under discussion, +when we saw in the roadway a snake six or eight feet long, and as +large round as the middle of one's arm. On pointing it out to our +friend, he merely told us its species, and declared that a child might +sleep with it unharmed. In the mean time it was a relief to see the +innocent creature hasten to secrete itself in a lime hedge close at +hand. Lizards, tarantulas, and chameleons are frequently seen, but +are considered to be harmless. One often awakes in the morning to see +lizards upon his chamber wall, searching for flies and insects, upon +which they feed. + +The Cuban bloodhound, of which we hear so much, is not a native of the +island, but belongs to an imported breed, resembling the English +mastiff, though with larger head and limbs. He is by nature a fierce, +bloodthirsty animal, but the particular qualities which fit him for +tracing the runaway slaves are almost entirely acquired by careful +training. This is accomplished by experts in the business, who are +sometimes Monteros, and sometimes French overseers of plantations who +are out of work or regular engagement. Each estate keeps some of these +dogs as a precautionary measure, but they are seldom called into use +of late, for so certain is the slave that he will be instantly +followed as soon as missed, and inevitably traced by the hounds, that +he rarely attempts to escape from his master unless under some +peculiarly aggravating cause. It may even be doubted whether a slave +would be pursued to-day were he to attempt to escape, because slavery +is so very near its last gasp. In one respect this is an advantage to +the negroes, since the master, feeling this indifference, grants the +blacks more freedom of action. So perfect of scent is the Cuban +bloodhound that the master has only to obtain a bit of clothing left +behind by the runaway and give it to the hound to smell. The dog will +then follow the slave through a whole population of his class, and +with his nose to the ground lead straight to his hiding-place. + +For three centuries Cuba has been the hotbed of African slavery. Few, +if any, have been imported during the last thirty years, that is to +say since 1855, during which year some cargoes were successfully run. +In 1816, the Spanish government, in a solemn treaty, declared its +conviction of the injustice of the slave trade. On the 23d of +September, 1817, in consideration of four hundred thousand pounds +sterling paid as an equivalent by Great Britain, Spain ratified a +treaty proclaiming that the slave trade should cease throughout all +the dominions of that country on the 30th day of May, 1820, and that +it should not afterwards be lawful for any Spanish subject to purchase +slaves. It was further declared by the home government that all blacks +brought from Africa subsequent to that date should be at once set +free, and the vessel on which they were transported should be +confiscated, while the captain, crew, and others concerned should be +punished with ten years' penal servitude. Yet, as all the world knows, +this was nothing more than a dead letter so far as Cuba was concerned, +and so late as 1845, statistics show an arrival of imported slaves +from Africa of fifteen thousand negroes annually, for the previous +twenty years. Tacon, Governor-General from June, 1834, until April, +1838, like his predecessors and successors made no secret of receiving +seventeen dollars per head,--that is one doubloon,--on every slave +landed. Other officials spent their fees on themselves or hoarded them +for a fortune to be enjoyed on returning home to Spain, but Tacon +expended his in beautifying Havana and its environs. That the home +government secretly fostered the slave trade, notwithstanding the +solemn treaty entered into with Great Britain, no one pretends to +deny. + +The coolie system, which was latterly substituted for that of the +importation of Africans, was commenced in 1847, but it was only +slavery under another form, being in point of humanity even more +objectionable. Fully seventy per cent. of the Chinese coolies died +during the eight years they were bound by their contract to serve +their masters! Even after that period was completed, unjust laws and +schemes were adopted to retain their services whenever the planters +desired it; but the truth is, the planters, after a thorough +experience, were generally glad to get rid of the Mongolians. All of +them were decoyed from home under false pretenses and large promises, +and only arrived in Cuba to find themselves virtually slaves. But +there was no help for them. They were thousands of miles from China, +in a land of whose language they knew nothing, and so they were +obliged to submit. If after their term of service expired they +succeeded in reaching Havana, or other Cuban cities, and by becoming +fruit peddlers or engaging in any other occupation tried to earn +sufficient money to carry them back to their native land, they still +were brutally treated by all parties, and were ever at the mercy of +the venal police. On the plantations they received perhaps a little +more consideration than the blacks, simply because they were less +tractable and more dangerous on account of their greater degree of +intelligence and keener sense of the wrong done them. The planter, +always short of laborers, has heretofore been willing to pay the +shipping-agencies four hundred dollars for a newly-arrived coolie, +whose services he thus secured for eight years, the coolies at the +expiration of the period to receive a mere nominal sum, out of which +they have mostly been cheated by some means or other. The whole +business of coolie importation is vile beyond measure, and must have +included in its aggregate over three hundred thousand Chinese. There +are still believed to be some sixty thousand left upon the island, +most of whom remain because they have no means of returning to their +native land. Half of these subsist by begging. Broken in health and +spirits, they await the coming of that final liberator who is the last +friend of suffering humanity. + +The Chinese are best adapted to the work of the cigar factories, where +they excel in the occupation of cigar and cigarette making, and many +hundreds are thus employed in Havana. But they are totally unfit for +plantation labor, under the hardships of which their feeble frames +succumb. They prove themselves very good servants in the cities, being +very quick to learn, and ready to adapt themselves to any light +occupation. A Chinaman is sly, cunning, and, to a certain degree, +enterprising; but he must be trusted cautiously. As a house-servant, +footman, cook, or waiter he is admirable. Here, in this to him foreign +land, he cannot suppress his instinct for gambling; it seems to be +born in him, and he will often lose in an hour the hard accumulation +of months, or even years. As to the lottery, he is always the +purchaser of portions of tickets at every drawing, and occasionally +becomes a winner. A thrifty Chinaman, for there are some such even in +Havana, bearing the characteristic name of Ah-Lee, connected with a +bricabrac store on the Calzada de la Reina, held a lucky number in the +lottery drawn during our brief stay at the Hotel Telegrafo. When the +prizes were announced, he found that he was entitled to five hundred +dollars. The agents tried to pay Ah-Lee in Cuban currency, but he was +too smart for them, and showed them their own announcement promising +to cash all prizes, with the usual discount, in gold. So Ah-Lee got +his prize finally in gold. We were told by one whose experience was +extensive, and whose testimony was worthy of respect, that the coolies +would lie and steal with such apparent innocence as to deceive the +most wary, and that as regards their moral nature it seemed to be +totally undeveloped. For our own part we still sympathize with John. +He has been so outrageously cheated and abused from the hour when he +stepped on board the transport ship which brought him from China up to +the present time that he has learned the trick of it. If he is not +strong enough to demand his rights, we certainly hope that he may have +sufficient cunning to obtain them by outwitting his adversaries. + +In their slave condition the Chinese coolies and the negroes were at +times so affected by a spirit of superstition as to cause them to +commit suicide, the latter actuated, as it seemed, by a feeling of +despair, the former through a vindictive spirit towards their masters. +Both were also moved by a superstitious conviction that their spirits +would at once be returned to their native land, to inhabit a sort of +spirit paradise or intermediate state between earth and heaven. It is +very strange that so peculiar and so similar a belief should be +indigenous in the minds of such distinctive races. At the period when +the free importation from Africa was carried on, the most difficult +thing the planters had to contend with was a proneness to suicide on +the part of those slaves who were newly imported, and who entertained +this same remarkable idea. + +Though we abhor the entire system of Cuban labor, yet it cannot be +denied that the slaves, so far as material comfort goes, are better +lodged, fed, and cared for than four fifths of the population of +Ireland and India, and, furthermore, this comparison will hold good as +regards a large portion of continental Europe. A well-fed, well-kept +negro is twice as valuable, twice as serviceable to his master as a +neglected one, and no one knows this better than the master who +governs his slaves on purely mercenary grounds, and is yet very +careful to supply liberally their physical wants. These slaves are +descended from various African tribes, whose characteristics are so +marked as to be easily discernible even by strangers. The Congoes are +small in stature, but very agile and good workers, and in past years +they have been a favorite tribe. The Fantees are a larger race of +negroes, hard to manage, and possessing a revengeful nature. Those +from the Gold Coast are still more powerful in body, but are +good-natured and well-liked by planters. The Ebros are less black than +those already named, almost mulatto in complexion, and make favorite +house servants. The Ashantees are of another prominent tribe, and are +also popular as plantation hands, but not numerous. + +The tattooed faces, bodies, and limbs of a large portion of the +slaves, especially of the hands upon the plantations, shows their +African nativity, while the smooth skin and generally greater degree +of intelligence of others show them to have been born in slavery upon +the island. These latter are mostly sought for service in the cities. +They are remarkably healthy when not overworked, and form the most +vigorous part of the population. When an epidemic breaks out among +the blacks, it seems to carry them off by wholesale, proving much more +fatal than among the whites. Cholera, small-pox, and pneumonia +sometimes sweep them off at a fearful rate. It is a curious fact that +if a negro is really ill, he requires just twice as much medicine to +affect him as a white person. + +There are said to be three hundred thousand free negroes on the +island, of whom comparatively few are found inland upon the +plantations; they are all inclined to congregate in the cities and +large towns, where, truth compels us to say, they prove to be an idle +and vicious class, and as a body useless both to themselves and to the +public. There are believed to be at present in Cuba about one hundred +and forty thousand male and about sixty thousand female slaves. To +carry on the great industry of the island as systematized by the +planters, this number of hands is entirely inadequate. It is sometimes +asked how there came to be so many free negroes in the island. It +should be clearly understood that the laws which govern Cuba are made +by the home government, not by the planters or natives of Cuba, and +that indirectly these laws have long favored emancipation of the +blacks. For many years any slave has enjoyed the right to go to a +magistrate and have himself appraised, and upon paying the price thus +set upon himself he can receive his free papers. The valuation is made +by three persons, of whom the master appoints one, and the magistrate +two. The slave may pay by installments of fifty dollars at a time, but +he owes his full service to his master until the last and entire +payment is made. If the valuation be twelve hundred dollars, after the +slave has paid one hundred he owns one twelfth of himself, and the +master eleven twelfths, and so on. Until all is paid, however, the +master's dominion over the slave is complete. There has also long been +another peculiar law in operation. A slave may on the same valuation +compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay the money +in full, and this has often been done where slave and master disagree. +This law, as will be seen, must have operated as it was designed to +do, as a check upon masters, and as an inducement for them to remove +special causes of complaint and dissatisfaction. It has also enabled +slaveholders of the better class, in the case of ill-usage of blacks, +to relieve them by paying down their appraised value and appropriating +their services to themselves. All this relates to the past rather than +the present, since, as we have explained, the relationship of slave +and master is now so nearly at an end as to render such arrangements +inoperative. + +There was a law promulgated in 1870,--the outgrowth of the revolution +of 1868, which dethroned Isabella II.,--declaring every slave in Cuba +to be free after reaching the age of sixty, and also freeing the +children of all slaves born subsequent to that year. But that law has +been ignored altogether, and was not permitted even to be announced +officially upon the island. In the first place, few hard worked slaves +survive to the age of sixty; and in the second place, the children +have no one to look after or to enforce their rights. Spain never yet +kept troth with her subjects, or with anybody else, and the passage of +the law referred to was simply a piece of political finesse, designed +for the eye of the European states, and more particularly to soothe +England, which country had lately showed considerable feeling and +restlessness touching the disregard of all treaties between herself +and Spain. + +The slaves who still remain upon the plantations appear in all outward +circumstances to be thoughtless and comparatively content; their light +and cheerful nature seems to lift them above the influence of brutal +treatment when it is encountered. That they have been called upon to +suffer much by being overtasked and cruelly punished in the past, +there is no doubt whatever, but it may be safely stated that their +condition has been greatly improved of late. The owners are obliged by +law to instruct the slaves in the Catholic faith, but this has never +been heeded to any extent by the planters, though all the children are +baptized in infancy. The law relative to the treatment of the negroes +also prescribes a certain quantity and quality of food to be regularly +furnished to them, but the masters are generally liberal in this +respect, and exceed the requirements of the law, as their mercenary +interest is obviously in that direction. The masters know by +experience that slaves will not work well unless well fed. With no +education or culture whatever, their intelligence remains at the +lowest ebb. "With plenty of food and sleep," said an owner to us, +"they are as easily managed as any other domestic animals." + +Until latterly the slaves have been carefully watched at night, but +nearly all these precautions against their escaping from servitude +seem to have been dropped. They are no longer locked up in corral, +their special night quarters. Of course they are kept within certain +bounds, but the rigorous surveillance under which they have always +lived is no longer in force. The two sexes are nominally separated, +but as there is no strict recognition of the marital relation, and +free intercommunication between them really exists, the state of +morality may be imagined. It has always been customary for mothers to +receive certain consideration and partial relief from hard labor +during a reasonable period prior to and subsequent to their +confinement, with encouraging gifts from the masters, which has caused +them generally to covet the condition of maternity. Still the +proportion of female slaves on the plantations has always been so +small, compared with that of the other sex, that not nearly so many +children are born as would be supposed. Female slaves have generally +been sent to town service, even when born on the plantations. + +It has always been clearly understood that the births on the part of +the negroes in Cuba have not nearly kept pace with the number of +deaths among them, even under apparently favorable circumstances. One +has not far to look for the reason of this. Promiscuous intercourse is +undoubtedly the predisposing cause, which is always an outgrowth of a +largely unequal division of the sexes. On the plantations the male +negroes outnumber the females ten to one. In the cities the males are +as five to one. When the slave trade was carried on between Africa and +the island, the plan was to bring over males only, but it was hardly +practicable to adhere strictly to the rule, so women were not declined +when a cargo was being made up and nearly completed. Thus a disparity +was inaugurated which has continued to the present day, with only a +slight equalizing tendency. + +The present plan of freeing the slaves recommends itself to all +persons who fully understand the position, and if it be honestly +carried out will soon obliterate the crime of enforced labor upon the +island. A sudden freeing of the blacks, that is, all at once, would +have been attended with much risk to all parties, although justice and +humanity demand their liberation. France tried the experiment in St. +Domingo, and the result was a terrible state of anarchy. Not only did +she lose possession of the island, but the people settled down by +degrees into all the horrors of African savagery, even to cannibalism. +England followed, and generously paid the British planters of Jamaica +for all their slaves, giving the latter unconditional freedom. Of +course this ruined the island commercially, but it was strict justice, +nevertheless. Extreme measures are open to objection even in behalf of +justice. It was hoped that the freed negroes of Jamaica would become +thrifty and industrious, earning fair wages, and that crops would +still be remunerative, but it was not so. The negro of the tropics +will only work when he is compelled, and in the West Indies he has +scarcely more to do, as it regards sustaining life, than to pluck of +the wild fruits and to eat. The sugar plantations of Jamaica have +simply ceased to exist. + +Every reasonable Cuban has long realized that the freedom of the +blacks was but a question of time, and that it must soon be brought +about, but how this could be accomplished without rendering them +liable to the terrible consequences which befell St. Domingo was a +serious problem. The commercial wreck of Jamaica had less terror for +them as an example, since of late their own condition could in that +respect hardly be worse. Therefore, the manumitting of one slave in +every four annually, so organized that all shall be free on January 1, +1888, is considered with great favor by the people generally, except +the most radical of old Spaniards. All are thus prepared for the +change, which is so gradually brought about as to cause no great +shock. It is not unreasonable to believe that the instantaneous +freeing of all the slaves would have led to mutual destruction of +whites and blacks all over the island. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. + + +The author's first visit to the island of Cuba was during the year +1845, at a period when the slave traffic was vigorously, though +surreptitiously carried on between Africa and the island. The trade +was continued so late as 1853, and occasional cargoes were brought +over even later, slavers having been captured on the south coast two +years subsequent to the last named date. The slave vessels generally +sought a landing on the south side, both as being nearest and safest +for them, but when they were hard pressed they made a port wherever it +could be most easily reached. A favorite point at the time of which we +speak, was in the Bay of Broa, on the south coast, nearly opposite to +the Isle of Pines. It was here in 1845 that the author witnessed a +scene which forms the theme of the following chapter. A superior +knowledge of all the hidden bays and inlets of the south side gave the +contrabandists great advantages over any pursuing vessel, and their +lighter draught of water enabled them to navigate their small crafts +where it was impossible for a heavy ship to follow. + +We were on a brief visit to the coffee estate of Don Herero, near +Guines, and having expressed a desire to visit the southern coast, our +host proposed that we should do so together on the following day. We +were to start on horseback quite early in the morning, so as to +accomplish the distance before the heat of the sun should become +oppressive. + +The early day is almost as beautiful as the evenings of this region, a +fact to which we were fully awakened at an early hour, after a +refreshing night's sleep. Don Herero was already awaiting us on the +broad piazza, which we reached in time to see the slaves, directed by +an overseer, file past the house towards the field. "A couple of hours +before sunrise," said our host, "is the best time for them to work, +and we add these two hours to their noon rest, so that it divides the +labor to better advantage and avoids the midday heat." There were +perhaps seventy or eighty of this gang of slaves, one fifth only being +women. Don Herero went among them and exchanged some pleasant words, +mostly with the women, one of whom, evidently in a delicate situation, +he singled out and led aside, directing her to return to the huts. It +seemed that she had prepared to go to the field, but he did not +approve of it, and she acquiesced good naturedly. It was observed also +that he gave her a piece of money with a pleasant word, bidding her to +purchase some coveted piece of finery,--probably a gaudy "bandana," of +whose bright colors the negro women are very fond, binding them +turban-fashion about their curly heads. Another passion among the +Cuban negresses is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even +brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained. + +As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted +upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their +manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South +American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At +first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the +entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road, +like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural +English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere, +still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance +of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along +at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated +district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by +hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented +shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and +prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with +small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and +abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of +wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their +surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs +of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of +whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which +he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette +sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and +whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline. + +A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle +rise of ground, which opened to our view the ocean, and a line of +coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite +early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which +stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more +distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to +disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift +the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time, +however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero +observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen +such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured +us that with the exercise of a little patience we should soon be +rewarded by a clear and extensive view. So dismounting and lighting +our cigars we leaned upon the saddles of the horses and watched the +wreaths of the mist bank gradually dissolving. To the eastward there +jutted out a promontory with a considerable elevation, behind which +the sun began to show his florid countenance. Presently the indistinct +outline of a graceful tracery of spars and cordage greeted the eye +through the misty gauze, growing steadily more and more distinct and +gradually descending towards the sea level, until at last there lay +before us in full view, with a look of treacherous tranquillity, the +dark, low hull of a brigantine. + +"A slaver!" was the mutual and simultaneous exclamation which burst +from our lips as we gazed intently on the small but symmetrical +vessel. + +Don Herero looked particularly intelligent, but said nothing. There +could be no doubt as to the trade which engaged such a clipper craft. +No legitimate commerce was suggested by her appearance, no honest +trade demanded such manifest sacrifice of carrying capacity. It was +very natural that her guilty character should add interest to her +appearance and cause us to examine her very minutely. A short distance +from where we stood there was gathered a group of a dozen or more +persons, who silently regarded the brigantine, but they evinced no +surprise at her appearance there so close to the shore. She was of a +most graceful model, perfect in every line, with bows almost as sharp +as a knife. The rig was also quite unusual and entirely new to us. Her +deck was flush fore and aft. Not so much as an inch of rise was +allowed for a quarter-deck, a style which gave large stowage capacity +below deck, the level of which came up to within a couple of feet of +the cappings of the bulwarks. As we have before intimated, it required +no interpreter to indicate what business the brigantine was engaged +in. A single glance at her, lying in so unfrequented a place, was +enough. The rakish craft was of Baltimore build, of about two hundred +tons measurement, and, like many another vessel turned out by the +Maryland builders, was designed to make successfully the famous middle +passage to or from the coast of Cuba, loaded with kidnapped negroes +from the shores of Africa. The two requisites of these clippers were +great speed and large stowage capacity for a human freight. + +At first it appeared as though Don Herero had purposely brought us +here to witness the scene, but this he insisted was not the case, +declaring that the presence of the slaver was a surprise to him. Be +that as it may, it was clear that a cargo of negroes was about to be +landed, and certain rapid signals had been exchanged by flags from a +neighboring hut ever since the mist lifted. Repulsive as the idea was +to a Northerner, still it would do no good to avoid the sight, and so +we resolved to witness the disembarkation. Our friend, though a +slaveholder, was so more by force of circumstances than through his +own choice; he did not defend the institution at all. His solemn +convictions were entirely against slavery, and he more than once said +he heartily wished that some means might be devised which should +gradually and effectually relieve the planters from the entire system +and its many troubles. Don Herero now lies in one of the tombs in the +Campo Santo, near Havana, but were he living he would doubtless +rejoice at the present manner of solving a question which was so +involved in perplexity during the last of his days. + +While we were exchanging some remarks upon the subject, our attention +was suddenly drawn towards another striking object upon the waters of +the bay. + +Nearly a league beyond the slaver, looming up above the mist, we could +now make out three topmasts, clearly defined, the stately set of +which, with their firm and substantial rig, betrayed the fact that +there floated beneath them the hull of a French or an English +man-of-war, such as was commissioned at that time to cruise in these +waters for the purpose of intercepting and capturing the vessels +engaged in the African slave trade. + +"A cruiser has scented the brigantine," said Don Herero. + +"It certainly appears so," we affirmed. + +"Unless there be sharp eyes on board the little craft, the cruiser +will be down upon her before her people even suspect their danger." + +"The brigantine can hardly escape, at any rate," we suggested. + +"Don't be too sure," said Don Herero. + +It was impossible for our friend to suppress the nervous anxiety which +so manifestly actuated him as he viewed the new phase of affairs. + +"Look! Look!" he exclaimed. + +While he spoke, a drapery of snow-white canvas fell like magic from +the spars of the slaver, ready to catch the first breath of the breeze +which the stranger was bringing down with him, though the larger +vessel was still partially wrapped in a thin bank or cloud of fog. A +couple of long sweeps were rigged out of either bow of the brigantine, +and her prow, which just before was heading shoreward, was swung to +seaward, while her canvas was trimmed to catch the first breath of the +on-coming breeze. + +"This looks like business," said Don Herero with emphasis, at the same +time shading his eyes with both hands to get a better view of the +situation. + +"Can you define the new-comer's nationality?" we asked. + +"Not yet." + +"See! she is now in full sight." + +"French!" exclaimed Don Herero, as the tri-colors were clearly visible +hanging from her peak. + +"What will the cruiser do with the brigantine?" we asked. + +"First catch your hare," said our friend. + +Our host then explained that the slaver had evidently intended to land +her cargo under cover of the night, but had been prevented by the mist +from coming to anchor in time. Fog, being so seldom known on this +coast, had not entered into their calculations. She had most likely +felt her way towards the shore by soundings, and was waiting for full +daylight when we discovered her. + +While this explanation was being made, the brigantine had already got +steerage way upon her, aided by the steady application of the sweeps, +and her sharp bow was headed off shore. Nothing on the sea, unless it +were a steamer, could hold speed with these fly-aways, which were +built for just such emergencies as the present. The gradually +freshening breeze had now dispersed the mist, and the two vessels were +clearly in view from the shore and to each other. The remarkable +interest of the scene increased with each moment. Don Herero, with all +the excitability of his nationality, could hardly contain himself as +he walked rapidly back and forth, always keeping his eyes towards the +sea. + +The cruiser had come down under an easy spread of canvas, wearing a +jib, three topsails, fore, main, and mizzen, and her spanker. It did +not appear as if she had any previous intimation of the presence of +the slaver, but rather that she was on the watch for just such a +quarry as chance had placed within reach of her guns. The moment she +discovered the brigantine, and at a signal which we could not hear +upon the land, a hundred dark objects peopled her shrouds and spars, +and sail after sail of heavy duck was rapidly dropped and sheeted +home, until the mountain of canvas began to force the large hull +through the water with increasing speed. + +In the mean time the lesser craft had been by no means idle. In +addition to the regular square and fore and aft sails of a brigantine, +she had a mizzen-mast stepped well aft not more than four feet from +her taffrail, upon which she had hoisted a spanker and gaff-topsail, +thus completing a most graceful and effective rig, and spreading a +vast amount of canvas for a vessel of her moderate tonnage. It was +quite impossible to take one's eyes off the two vessels. It was a race +for life with the slaver, whose people worked with good effect at the +sweeps and in trimming their sails to make the most out of the light +but favorable wind that was filling them. The larger vessel would have +made better headway in a stiff breeze or half a gale of wind, but the +present moderate breeze favored the guilty little brigantine, which +was every moment forging ahead and increasing the distance between +herself and her enemy. + +"Do you see that commotion on the cruiser's bow?" asked our friend +eagerly. + +"Some men are gathered on the starboard bow," was our answer. + +"Ay, and now she runs out a gun!" + +That was plain enough to see. The cruiser trained a bow-chaser to bear +on the slaver, and the boom of the gun came sluggishly over the sea a +few seconds after the puff of smoke was seen. A quick eye could see +the dash of the shot just astern of the brigantine, where it must have +cast the spray over her quarter-deck. After a moment's delay, as if to +get the true range, a second, third, and fourth shot followed, each +ricochetting through and over the slight waves either to starboard or +port of the slaver, without any apparent effect. The brigantine, still +employing her sweeps, and with canvas well trimmed, took no notice of +the shots. + +Every time the gun was discharged on board the cruiser, it became +necessary to fall off her course just a point or two in order to get a +proper aim, and her captain was quick to see the disadvantage of this, +as he was only assisting the slaver to widen the distance between +them. It would seem to the uninitiated to be the easiest thing +possible to cripple the brigantine by a few well directed shots, but +when sailing in the wake of an enemy this is by no means so easily +done. Besides, the distance between the two vessels, which was +considerable, was momentarily increasing. Notwithstanding that the +broad spread of canvas on board the slaver made her a conspicuous +mark, still, so far as could be seen or judged of by her movements, +she remained untouched by half a dozen shots, more or less, which the +cruiser sent after her as she slipped away from her big adversary. We +could even see that the sweeps were now taken in, showing that the +master of the slaver considered the game to be in his own hands. + +"The brigantine steers due south," said our friend, rubbing his hands +together eagerly. "She will lead the Frenchman a wild goose chase +among the Cayman Isles, where he will be most likely to run aground +with his heavy draught of water. The sea round about for leagues is +underlaid by treacherous coral reefs. We shall see, we shall see," he +reiterated. + +"But they must certainly have a good pilot on board the cruiser," we +ventured to say. + +"Undoubtedly," replied Don Herero, "but the brigantine is built with a +centre-board, thus having, as it were, a portable keel, and can sail +anywhere that a man could swim, while the cruiser, with all her +armament, must draw nearly three fathoms. A ship will sometimes follow +a chase into dangerous water." + +"True," we responded, "the brigantine's safety lies in seeking shoal +water." + +"You are right, and that will be her game." + +In half an hour both vessels were hull down in the offing, and were +soon invisible from our point of view. The early ride and subsequent +excitement had developed in us a healthy appetite, and we were +strongly reminded of the fact that we had not breakfasted. We were +near the little hamlet of Lenore, where there was a small inn, which +we had passed on the way, and towards which we now turned our horses' +heads. A breakfast of boiled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee was +prepared for us and well served, much to our surprise, supplemented by +a large dish of various fruits, ripe and delicious. Don Herero had +left us for a few moments while the breakfast was preparing, and it +must have been owing to his intelligent instructions that we were so +nicely served, for, as a rule, country posadas in Cuba are places to +be avoided, being neither cleanly nor comfortable. For strangers they +are not entirely safe, as they are frequented by a very rough class of +people. These idlers do not indulge in spirituous liquors to excess, +partaking only of the light Cataline wine in universal use both in +Spain and her colonies. Intemperance is little seen outside the large +cities, but gambling and quarreling are ever rampant among the class +who frequent these posadas. In the present instance there were a dozen +and more individuals in the Lenore inn who were more or less connected +with the expected arrival of the slave brigantine, and the +disappointment caused by the arrival upon the scene of the French +cruiser had put them all in a very bad humor. Angry words were being +exchanged among them in the large reception apartment, and Don Herero +suggested that we should finish our cigars under an inviting shade in +the rear of the posada. + +At our host's suggestion a neighboring coffee plantation was visited, +and its floral and vegetable beauties thoroughly enjoyed. It was in +the very height of fragrance and promise, the broad expanse of the +plantation, as far as the eye could extend, being in full bloom. Some +hours were agreeably passed in examining the estate, the slaves' +quarters, and the domestic arrangements, and also in partaking of the +hospitalities of the generous owner, after which we rode back to +Lenore. + +"We must not miss the closing act of our little drama," said Don +Herero, significantly. + +"The closing act?" we inquired. + +"Certainly. You do not suppose we have yet done with the brigantine?" + +"Oh, the brigantine. Will she dare to return, now the cruiser has +discovered her?" + +"Of course she will, after dropping her pursuer. Strange that these +French cruisers do not understand these things better; but so it is." + +And Don Herero explained that the French cruisers watched the southern +coasts of the island, while the English cruised on the northern shore, +attempted to blockade it, and also cruised farther seaward, on the +line between Africa and Cuba. A couple of American men-of-war, engaged +in the same purpose of suppressing the slave trade, patrolled the +African coast. It was nearly night before we got through our dinner at +the posada. Just as we were preparing to leave the table, the landlord +came in and announced to Don Herero that if we desired to witness the +close of the morning's business in the bay, we must hurry up to the +plateau. + +We hastened to our former position, reaching it just in time to see +the brigantine again rounding the headland. She now ran in close to +the shore, where there seemed to be hardly water sufficient to float +her, but the exactness and system which characterized her movements +showed that her commander was not a stranger to the little bay in +which he had brought his vessel. All was instantly bustle and +activity, both on board and on shore. There were not more than twenty +people to be seen at the shore, but each one knew his business, and +went about it intelligently. There was no more loud talking or +disputation. These men, all armed, were accustomed to this sort of +thing, and had evidently been awaiting the slaver's arrival for some +days. They were a rough-looking set of desperadoes, among whom we +recognized several who had been at the posada. + +The brigantine was quickly moored as near to the shore as possible, +and a broad gangway of wood was laid from her deck to a projecting +rock, over which a long line of dark objects was hurried, like a flock +of sheep, and nearly as naked as when born into the world. We walked +down to the landing-place, in order to get a closer view. The line of +human beings who came out from below the deck of the slaver were +mostly full-grown men, but occasionally a woman or a boy came out and +hastened forward with the rest. As we drew nearer, one or two of the +women, it was observed, had infants in their arms, little unconscious +creatures, sound asleep, and so very young that they must have been +born on the voyage. How the entire scene appealed to our indignation +and sympathy! What misery these poor creatures must have endured, +cooped up for twenty-one days in that circumscribed space! They were +all shockingly emaciated, having sustained life on a few ounces of +rice and a few gills of water daily distributed to them. The +atmosphere, thoroughly poisoned when so confined, had proved fatal to +a large number. As we stood there, one dark body was passed up from +below the deck and quietly dropped into the bay. Life was extinct. It +was quite impossible to suppress a shudder as we looked upon the +disgraceful scene, which being observed Don Herero said,-- + +"They look bad enough now, but a few days in the open air, with a +plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits, and sweet water to drink, will +bring them round. They will get a good bath directly at the first +river they cross, which is the thing they most require." + +While our friend was speaking, four tall, gaunt, fierce-looking +negroes passed us, shackled two by two at the wrists. Their eyes +rolled curiously about, full of wonder at all they saw, everything was +to them so strange. They knew no more than children just born what was +in store for them. + +"Poor fellows!" we ejaculated. Perhaps they detected sympathy in the +tone of voice in which the words were uttered. They could not +understand their purport, but all four were observed to turn their +eyes quickly towards us, with an intelligent expression. + +"These are Ashantees," said Don Herero. "They have thriven but poorly +on their small allowance of nourishment, but they will improve rapidly +like the rest, now they have landed. They belong to a powerful tribe +in Africa, and are rarely captured and sold to the factories on the +coast. They are sturdy and serviceable fellows, but they must be +humored. The lash will not subdue them. They bring a high price in +Havana for harbor workers." + +Hastening back to the posada, a large basket of cassava bread and an +abundance of ripe bananas and oranges, with half a dozen bottles of +wine, were procured. With these, carried by a couple of colored boys, +we hastened back to the landing-place in time to distribute the +refreshments to all the women and boys. The balance of the provisions +were dealt out to the few men who had not already been hurried away +from the spot. It is impossible to describe the surprise and grateful +expression upon those dusky faces among the half-famished creatures, +as they eagerly swallowed a portion of the wine, and ate freely of the +delicious fruit and nourishing bread. + +We were told afterwards that there were about three hundred and fifty +of these poor creatures originally embarked, and over three hundred +were landed. Perhaps between thirty and forty had died on the passage, +unable to sustain life under such awful circumstances, packed, as they +necessarily were, almost like herring in a box. Once a day, in fair +weather, thirty or forty at a time were permitted to pass a half hour +on deck. That was all the respite from their confinement which they +enjoyed during the three weeks' voyage. The horrors of the "middle +passage" have not been exaggerated. + +"They must have lost many of their number by death, on the voyage," we +suggested to Don Herero, as we observed their weak and tremulous +condition. + +"Doubtless," was the response. + +"And what do they do in that case?" + +"They have the ocean always alongside," was his significant reply. + +"They throw them over as they did that body just now?" we asked. + +"Exactly. And many a poor sick creature is cast into the sea before +life is extinct," he continued. + +"That is adding murder to piracy," was our natural and indignant +rejoinder. + +"Hush!" said Don Herero, "these are sensitive people, and desperate +ones, as well. I should find it difficult to protect you if they were +to overhear and understand such words." + +We realized that his remarks were true enough. We were in a land of +slavery, and that meant that everything evil was possible. + +The last of the living freight had been landed, and arranged in +marching trim they were turned with their faces inland, staggering as +they went, their swollen and cramped limbs hardly able to sustain the +weight of their bodies. They were all secured with handcuffs, twenty +in a lot, between whom,--there being ten on a side,--a pole was +placed, and each was fastened by a chain running through the steel +handcuffs to the pole. An armed Spaniard directed each lot. The faces +of all were quite expressionless. They had just endured such horrors +packed beneath the deck of the brigantine that the present change must +have been welcome to them, lame as they were. + +We had been so completely engaged in watching the colored gangs and in +moving up to our lookout station of the early morning that our +thoughts had not reverted to anything else, but as the last lot filed +by there boomed over the waters of the bay the heavy report of a gun, +at once calling our attention seaward. A change had come over the +scene. That which has taken some space to relate had transpired with +great rapidity. Night had settled over the scene, but the moon and +stars were so marvelously bright as to render objects almost as plain +as by day. The ocean lay like a sheet of silver, luminous with the +reflected light poured upon it by the sparkling skies. Looking towards +the southeast, we saw the French cruiser rounding the headland which +formed the eastern arm of the little bay, and she had already sent a +shot across the water aimed at the brigantine. Don Herero had +prognosticated correctly. The slaver had led the cruiser a fruitless +chase and lost her among the islands, and then returning to her former +anchorage had successfully discharged her cargo. Her tactics could not +have been anticipated by the cruiser, yet had an armed party been left +behind in boats, the brigantine might have been captured on her +return. But then again, if the cruiser had left a portion of her crew +at this point, the slaver would have been notified by the friends on +shore, and would have sought a landing elsewhere. + +The brigantine had cast off her moorings and was now standing seaward, +with her sails filled. We could distinctly see a quarter boat leave +her side manned by some of her crew, who at once pulled towards the +nearest landing. At the same time a bright blaze sprang up on board +the slaver just amidships, and in a moment more it crept, like a +living serpent, from shroud to shroud and from spar to spar, until the +graceful brigantine was one sheet of flame! It was dazzling to look +upon, even at the distance where we stood, the body of high-reaching +flame being sharply defined against the background of sky and blue +water. + +While we watched the glowing view the cruiser cautiously changed her +course and bore away, for fire was an enemy with which she could not +contend. Presently there arose a shower of blazing matter heavenward, +while a confused shock and a dull rumbling report filled the +atmosphere, as the guilty brigantine was blown to atoms! Hemmed in as +she was there could be no hope of escape. Her mission was ended, and +her crew followed their usual orders, to destroy the ship rather than +permit her to fall a prize to any government cruisers. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. + + +Everything in Cuba has an aspect of antiquity quite Egyptian. The +style of the buildings is not unlike that of the Orient, while the +trees and vegetable products increase the resemblance. The tall, +majestic palms, the graceful cocoanut trees, the dwellings of the +lower classes and many other peculiarities give to the scenery an +Eastern aspect quite impressive. It is impossible to describe the +vividness with which each object, artificial or natural, house or +tree, stands out in the clear liquid light where there is no haze to +interrupt the view. Indeed, it is impossible to express how +essentially everything differs in this sunny island from our own +country. The language, the people, the climate, the manners and +customs, the architecture, the foliage, the flowers, all offer broad +contrasts to what the American has so lately left behind him. It is +but a long cannon shot, as it were, off our southern coast, yet once +upon its soil the stranger seems to have been transported to another +quarter of the globe. It would require but little effort of the +imagination to believe one's self in distant Syria, or some remoter +part of Asia. + +One never tires of watching the African population, either in town or +country. During the hours which the slaves are allowed to themselves, +they are oftenest seen working on their own allotted piece of ground, +where they raise favorite fruits and vegetables, besides corn for +fattening the pig penned up near by, and for which the drover who +regularly visits the plantations will pay them in good hard money. +Thus it has been the case, in years past, that thrifty slaves have +earned the means of purchasing their freedom, after which they have +sought the cities, and have swelled the large numbers of free negroes +who naturally tend towards these populous centres. Some become +caleseros, some labor upon the water-front of the town as stevedores, +porters, and the like, but the majority are confirmed idlers. In the +cities even the slaves have always had a less arduous task to perform +than those on the plantations. They are less exposed to the sun, and +are as a rule allowed more freedom and privileges. The women never +fail to exhibit the true negro taste for cheap jewelry. A few gaudy +ribbons and a string of high-colored glass beads about the neck are +greatly prized by them. Sometimes the mistress of a good looking +negress takes great pleasure in decking her immediate attendant in +grand style, with big gold finger rings, large hoop earrings, wide +gold necklace, and the like. A bright calico gown and a flaring +bandana kerchief bound about the head generally complete the costume +of these petted slaves. There was one sight observed in the church of +Santa Clara of significance in this connection. Before the altar all +distinction ceased, and the negress knelt on the same bit of carpet +beside the mistress. + +The native soil of Cuba is so rich that a touch of the hoe prepares it +for the plant. It is said to be unsurpassed in the world in this +respect, and only equaled by Australia. The Monteros have little more +to do than to gather produce, which they carry daily to the nearest +market, and which also forms their own healthful and palatable food. +Nowhere are the necessities of life so easily supplied, or are men so +delicately nurtured. And yet to our Northern eye these Monteros seemed +rather a forlorn sort of people, forming a class by themselves, and +regarded with disdain by the Spaniards and most Creoles, as our +Southern slaveholders used to regard the poor whites of the South. If +one may judge by appearances they are nearly as poor in purse as they +can be. Their home, rude and lowly, consists generally of a cabin with +a bamboo frame, covered by a palm-leaf roof, and with an earthen +floor. There are a few broken hedges, and numbers of ragged or naked +children. Pigs, hens, goats, all stroll ad libitum in and out of the +cabin. The Montero's tools--few and poorly adapted--are Egyptian-like +in primitiveness, while the few vegetables are scarcely cultivated at +all. The chaparral about his cabin is low, tangled, and thorny, but it +is remarkable what a redeeming effect a few graceful palms impart to +the crudeness of the picture. + +The Montero raises, perhaps, some sweet potatoes, which, by the bye, +reach a very large size in Cuban soil. He has also a little patch of +corn, but _such_ corn. When ripe it is only three or four feet in +height, or less than half the average of our New England growth, the +ears mere nubbins. This corn grows, however, all the year round, and +is fed green to horses and cattle. All this is done upon a very small +scale. No one lays in a stock of anything perishable. The farmer's or +the citizen's present daily necessities alone are provided for. +Idleness and tobacco occupy most of the Montero's time, varied by the +semi-weekly attractions of the cock-pit. The amount of sustaining food +which can be realized from one of these little patches of ground, so +utterly neglected, is something beyond credence to those who have not +looked bountiful nature in the face in Cuba. + +While traveling in the vicinity of Guines, the author stopped at one +of these lonely Montero homes to obtain water and refreshment for his +horse. These were promptly furnished in the form of a pail of water +and a bundle of green cornstalks. In the mean time the rude +hospitality of the cabin was proffered to us, and we gladly sat down +to partake of cocoanut milk and bananas. One of the family pets of the +cabin consisted of a tall white bird of the crane species, which, +regardless of goat, kid, hens, chickens, and children, came boldly to +our side as though accustomed to be petted, and greedily devoured the +banana which was peeled for him and cut into tempting bits. One wing +had evidently been cut so that the bird could not fly away, but his +long, vigorous legs would have defied pursuit, had he desired to +escape. Four children, two of each sex, two of whom were white and two +mulatto, quite naked, and less than ten years of age, kept close to +the Montero's Creole wife, watching us with big, wondering eyes, and +fingers thrust into their mouths. What relationship they bore to the +household was not clearly apparent. On rising to depart and attempting +to pay for the entertainment, the master of the cabin, with true Cuban +hospitality, declined all remuneration; but a handful of small silver +divided among the children satisfied all, and we parted with a hearty +pressure of the hand. + +The richest soil of the island is black, which is best adapted to +produce the sugar-cane, and is mostly devoted, if eligibly located, to +that purpose. To a Northerner, accustomed to see so much enrichment +expended upon the soil to force from it an annual return, this +profuseness of unstimulated yield is a surprise. The red soil of Cuba, +which is impregnated with the oxide of iron, is less rich, and is +better adapted to the coffee plantation. The mulatto-colored earth is +considered to be inferior to either of the others named, but is by no +means unproductive, being preferred by the tobacco growers, who, +however, often mingle a percentage of other soils with it, as we +mingle barnyard refuse with our natural soil. Some tobacco planters +have resorted by way of experiment to the use of guano, hoping to +stimulate the native properties of the soil, but its effect was found +to be not only exhausting to the land, but also bad for the leaf, +rendering it rank and unfit for delicate use. + +Coal is found near Havana, though it is of rather an inferior quality, +and, so far as we could learn, is but little used, the planters +depending mostly upon the refuse of the cane with which to run their +boilers and engines. Trees have been only too freely used for fuel +while accessible, but great care is now taken to utilize the cane +after the juice is expressed. Trees, which are so much needed in this +climate for shade purposes, have mostly disappeared near Havana. When +Columbus first landed here he wrote home to Spain that the island was +so thickly wooded as to be impassable. + +The lovely climate and beautiful land are rendered gloomy by the state +of oppression under which they suffer. The exuberant soil groans with +the burdens which are heaped upon it. The people are not safe from +prying inquiry at bed or board. Their every action is watched, their +slightest words noted and perhaps distorted. They can sing no song of +liberty, and even to hum an air wedded to republican verse is to +provoke suspicion. The press is muzzled by the iron hand of power. Two +hours before a daily paper is distributed on the streets of Havana, a +copy must be sent to the government censor. When it is returned with +his indorsement it may be issued to the public. The censorship of the +telegraph is also as rigorously enforced. Nor do private letters +through the mails escape espionage. No passenger agent in Havana dares +to sell a ticket for the departure of a stranger or citizen without +first seeing that the individual's passport is indorsed by the police. +Foreign soldiers fatten upon the people, or at least they eat out +their substance, and every town near the coast is a garrison, every +interior village a military depot. + +Upon landing, if well advised, one is liberal to the petty officials. +Chalk is cheap. A five-dollar gold-piece smooths the way wonderfully, +and causes the inspector to cross one's baggage with his chalk and no +questions asked. No gold, no chalk! Every article must be scrupulously +examined. It is cheapest to pay, humiliating as it is, and thus +purchase immunity. + +As a specimen of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Havana +to-day, a case is presented which occurred during our stay at the +Telegrafo Hotel. A native citizen was waylaid by three men and robbed +of his pocket-book and watch, about fifty rods from the hotel, at +eight o'clock in the evening. The rascal who secured the booty, +threatening his victim all the while with a knife at his throat, +instantly ran away, but the citizen succeeded in holding on to the +other two men until his outcries brought the police to the spot. The +two accomplices were at once imprisoned. Three days later they were +brought before an authorized court, and tried for the robbery. Being +taken red-handed, as it were, one would suppose their case was clear +enough, and that they would be held until they gave up their +accomplice. Not so, however. The victim of the robbery, who had lost a +hundred and sixty dollars in money and a valuable gold watch, was +coolly rebuked for carrying so much property about his person, and the +case was dismissed! Had the sufferer been a home Spaniard possibly the +result would have been different. The inference is plain and doubtless +correct, that the official received half the stolen property, provided +he would liberate the culprits. Sometimes, as we were assured, the +victim outbids the rogues, and exemplary punishment follows! + +Flour of a good commercial quality sells at present in Boston for six +dollars per barrel. Why should it cost fourteen dollars in Havana and +other ports of Cuba? Because Spain demands a tax of one hundred per +cent. to be paid into the royal treasury upon this prime necessity of +life. This one example is sufficient to illustrate her policy, which +is to extort from the Cubans every possible cent that can be obtained. +The extraordinary taxation imposed upon their subjects by the German +and Austrian governments is carried to the very limit, it would seem, +of endurance, but taxation in Cuba goes far beyond anything of the +sort in Europe. Spain now asks us to execute with her a "favorable" +reciprocity treaty. Such a treaty as she proposes would be of very +great benefit to Spain, no doubt, but of none, or comparatively none, +to us. Whatever we seemingly do for Cuba in the matter of such a +treaty we should do indirectly for Spain. She it is who will reap all +the benefit. She has still upon her hands some fifty to sixty thousand +civil and military individuals, who are supported by a miserable +system of exaction as high and petty officials in this misgoverned +island. + +It is for the interest of this army of locusts in possession to keep +up the present state of affairs,--it is bread and butter to them, +though it be death to the Cubans. Relieved of the enormous taxation +and oppression generally which her people labor under in every +department of life, Cuba would gradually assume a condition of thrift +and plenty. But while she is so trodden upon, so robbed in order to +support in luxury a host of rapacious Spaniards, and forbidden any +voice in the control of her own affairs, all the treaty concessions +which we could make to Spain would only serve to keep up and +perpetuate the great farce. Such a treaty as is proposed would be in +reality granting to Spain a subsidy of about thirty million dollars +per annum! This conclusion was arrived at after consultation with +three of the principal United States consuls on the island. Cuba +purchases very little from us; she has not a consuming population of +over three hundred thousand. The common people, negroes, and Chinese +do not each expend five dollars a year for clothing. Rice, codfish, +and dried beef, with the abundant fruits, form their support. Little +or none of these come from the United States. The few consumers wear +goods which we cannot, or at least do not produce. A reciprocity +treaty with such a people means, therefore, giving them a splendid +annual subsidy. + +Taxed by the government to the very last extreme, the landlords, +shopkeepers, and all others who work for hire have also learned the +trick of it, and practice a similar game on every possible victim. +Seeing a small desirable text book in a shop on the Calle de Obrapia, +we asked the price. + +"Two dollars, gold, señor," was the answer. + +"Why do you charge just double the price one would pay for it in +Madrid, Paris, or New York?" we asked. + +"Because we are so heavily taxed," was the reply, and the shopman went +on to illustrate. + +Each small retail store is taxed three hundred dollars for the right +to do business. As the store increases in size and importance the tax +is increased. A new tax of six per cent. on the amount of all other +taxation has just been added, to cover the cost of collecting the +whole! A war tax of twenty-five per cent. upon incomes was laid in +1868, and though the war has been ended ten years it is still +collected. Every citizen or resident in Havana is obliged to supply +himself with a document which is called a cedula, or paper of +identification, at an annual cost of five dollars in gold. Every +merchant who places a sign outside of his door is taxed so much per +letter annually. Clerks in private establishments have to pay two and +one half per cent. of their quarterly salaries to government. +Railroads pay a tax of ten per cent. upon all passage money received, +and the same on all freight money. Petty officials invent and impose +fines upon the citizens for the most trifling things, and strangers +are mulcted in various sums of money whenever a chance occurs, +generally liquidating the demand rather than to be at the cost of time +and money to contest their rights. The very beggars in the streets, +blind, lame, or diseased, if found in possession of money, are forced +to share it with officials on some outrageous pretext. All these +things taken into consideration show us why the shopkeeper of Havana +must charge double price for his merchandise. We have only named a few +items of taxation which happen to occur to us, and which only form a +commencement of the long list. + +It is nearly impossible at present to collect a note or an account on +the island. Several of the guests at the Telegrafo had come from the +United States solely upon these fruitless errands, each having the +same experience to relate. Dishonest debtors take advantage of the +general state of bankruptcy which exists, and plead utter inability to +meet their obligations, while others, who would gladly pay their +honest debts if it were possible, have not the means to do so. + +There is considerable counterfeit paper money in circulation, and we +were told that the banks of the city of Havana actually paid it out +knowingly over their own counters, mixed in with genuine bills,--a +presumed perquisite of the bank officers! This unprecedented fraud +was not put a stop to until the merchants and private bankers +threatened to have the doors of the banks closed by popular force if +the outrage was longer continued. Could such a public fraud be carried +on under any other than a Spanish government? It is not pleasant to +record the fact, but it is nevertheless true that the Spaniards in +Cuba are artful, untruthful, unreliable even in small things, with no +apparent sense of honor, and seeking just now mainly how they can best +avoid their honest obligations. As evil communications are contagious, +the Cubans have become more or less impregnated with this spirit of +commercial dishonesty. It must be admitted that of true, conscientious +principles neither party has any to spare. + +The writer has often been asked about Moro Castle. Much has been said +about its "impregnable" character, but modern military science will +not recognize any such theory. A thousand chances are liable to +happen, any one of which might give the place into the hands of an +invading force. Has it not already been twice taken? Though it may be +said that auxiliary forts have been added since those experiences, +nevertheless modern artillery would make but short work of the boasted +defenses of Havana, and would knock the metropolis itself all to +pieces in a few hours, while lying out of range from Moro Castle. No +invading force need attack from the seaward side, unless it should be +found particularly desirable to do so. The place could be easily +taken, as the French took Algiers, by landing a sufficient force in +the rear. With the exception of the fortresses in and about Havana, +the island, with its two thousand miles of coast line and nearly one +hundred accessible harbors, is certainly very poorly prepared to +resist an invading enemy. Cuba's boasted military or defensive +strength is chimerical. + +That the island naturally belongs to this country is a fact so plain +as to have been conceded by all authorities. In this connection one is +forcibly reminded of the words of Jefferson in a letter to President +Monroe, so long ago as 1823, wherein he says: "I candidly confess that +I have ever looked on Cuba as the most interesting addition which +could be made to our system of States. The control which, with Florida +Point, this island would give us over the Gulf of Mexico and the +countries and the isthmus bordering it, would fill up the measure of +our political well-being." Is it generally known that Cuba was once +freely offered to this government? During the presidency of Jefferson, +while Spain was bowed beneath the yoke of France, the people of the +island, feeling themselves incompetent to maintain their independence, +sent a deputation to Washington city proposing its annexation to the +federal system of North America. The President, however, declined to +even consider the proffered acquisition. Again, in 1848, President +Polk authorized our minister at Madrid to offer a hundred million +dollars for a fee simple of the island, but it was rejected by Spain. + +Completely divided against itself, the mystery is how Cuba has been so +long sustained in its present system. Spain has crowded regiment after +regiment of her army into the island. It was like pouring water into a +sieve, the troops being absorbed by death almost as fast as they could +be landed. The combined slaughter brought about by patriot bullets, +hardships, exposure, fever, and every possible adverse circumstance +has been enormous beyond belief. In spite of all this sacrifice of +human life, besides millions of gold expended annually, what does +Spain gain by holding tenaciously to her title of the island? Nothing, +absolutely nothing. The time has long passed when the system of +extortion enforced upon the Cubans served to recuperate the royal +treasury. The tide has entirely changed in this respect, and though +the taxation has been increased, still the home government is mulcted +in the sum of six or eight millions of dollars annually to keep up the +present worse than useless system. The deficit of the Cuban budget for +the present year, as we were credibly informed, could not be less than +eight millions of dollars. How is Spain to meet this continuous drain +upon her resources? She is already financially bankrupt. It is in this +political strait that she seeks a one-sided treaty with the United +States, by means of which she hopes to eke out her possession of the +island a few years longer, through our liberality,--a treaty by which +she would gain some thirty millions of dollars annually, and we should +be just so much the poorer. + +As regards the final destiny of Cuba, that question will be settled by +certain economic laws which are as sure in their operation as are +those of gravitation. No matter what our wishes may be in the matter, +such individual desires are as nothing when arraigned against natural +laws. The commerce of the island is a stronger factor in the problem +than mere politics; it is the active agent of civilization all over +the world. It is not cannon, but ships; not gunpowder, but peaceful +freights, which settle the great questions of mercantile communities. +Krupp's hundred-ton guns will not control the fate of Cuba, but sugar +will. We have only to ask ourselves, Whither does the great commercial +interest of the island point? It is in the direction in which the +largest portion of her products find their market. If this were +England, towards that land her industry and her people would look +hopefully, but as it is the United States who take over ninety per +cent. of her entire exports, towards the country of the Stars and +Stripes she stretches out her hands, and asks for favorable treaties. + +At the present moment she has reached a crisis, where her condition is +absolutely desperate. The hour is big with fate to the people of Cuba. +As long as European soil will produce beets, the product of the cane +will find no market on that side of the Atlantic. Cuba must in the +future depend as much upon the United States as does Vermont, +Mississippi, New York, Ohio, or any other State. The effort to bring +about a reciprocal treaty of commerce with us is but the expression of +a natural tendency to closer bonds with this country. Thus it will be +seen that as regards her commercial existence, Cuba is already within +the economic orbit of our Union, though she seems to be so far away +politically. The world's centre of commercial gravity is changing very +fast by reason of the great and rapid development of the United +States, and all lands surrounding the union must conform to the +prevailing lines of motion. + +It is with infinite reluctance that the temporary sojourner in Cuba +leaves her delicious shores. A brief residence in the island passes +like a midsummer night's dream, while the memories one brings away +seem almost like delusive spots of the imagination. Smiling skies and +smiling waters; groves of palms and oranges; the bloom of the +heliotrope, the jasmine and the rose; flights of strange and gaudy +birds; tropic nights at once luxurious and calm; clouds of fireflies +floating like unsphered stars on the night breeze; graceful figures of +dark-eyed señoritas in diaphanous drapery; picturesque groups of +Monteros, relieved by the dusky faces and stalwart forms of the sons +of Africa; undulating volantes, military pageants, ecclesiastical +processions, frowning fortresses, grim batteries, white sails, +fountains raining silver; all these images mingle in brilliant +kaleidoscopic combinations, changing and varying as the mind's eye +seeks to fix their features. Long after his departure from the +enchanting island, the traveler beholds these visions in the still +watches of the night, and again listens to the dash of the sea-green +waves at the foot of the Moro and the Punta, the roll of the drum and +the crash of arms upon the ramparts, or hears in fancy the thrilling +strains of music from the military band in the Paseo de Isabella. + +If it were possible to contemplate only the beautiful that nature has +so prodigally lavished on this Eden of the Gulf, shutting out all that +man has done and is doing to mar the blessings of heaven, while +closing our eyes to the myriad forms of human misery that assail them +on every hand, then a visit to or a residence in Cuba would present a +succession of unalloyed pleasures, delightful as a poet's dream. But +the dark side of the picture will force itself upon us. The American +traveler, keenly alive to the social and political aspects of life, +appreciates in full force the evils that challenge his observation at +every step. If he contrasts the natural scenery with the familiar +pictures of home, he cannot help also contrasting the political +condition of the people with that of his own country. The existence, +almost under the shadow of the flag of the freest institutions the +earth ever knew, of a government as purely despotic as that of the +autocrat of Russia is a monstrous fact that must startle the most +indifferent observer. + +To go hence to Cuba is not merely to pass over a few degrees of +latitude,--it is to take a step from the nineteenth century back into +the dark ages. In the clime of sunshine and endless summer, we are in +the land of starless political darkness. Lying under the lee of a land +where every man is a sovereign is a realm where the lives, liberties, +and fortunes of all are held at the will of a single individual, who +acknowledges fealty only to a nominal ruler more than three thousand +miles across the sea. + +In close proximity to a country where the taxes are self-imposed and +so light as to be almost unfelt is one where each free family pays +over five hundred dollars per annum, directly and indirectly, for the +support of a system of bigoted tyranny, scarcely equaled +elsewhere,--forming an aggregate sum of over twenty-six millions of +dollars. For all this extortion no equivalent is received. No +representation, no utterance, for tongue or pen are alike proscribed; +no share of public honors, no office, no emolument. The industry of +the people is crippled, their intercourse with other nations is +hampered in every conceivable manner, and every liberal aspiration of +the human soul stifled in its birth. Can good morals and Christian +lives be expected of a people who are so down-trodden? + +Salubrious in climate, varied in production, and most fortunately +situated for commerce, there must yet be a grand future in store for +Cuba. Washed by the Gulf Stream on half her border, while the +Mississippi pours out its riches on one side and the Amazon on the +other, her home is naturally within our own constellation of stars, +and some of those who read these pages may live to see such a +consummation. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by +Maturin M. Ballou + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DUE SOUTH OR CUBA PAST AND PRESENT *** + +***** This file should be named 30130-8.txt or 30130-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/1/3/30130/ + +Produced by Julia Miller, Ritu Aggarwal and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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Ballou. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + hr.full { width : 65%; } + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by Maturin M. Ballou + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Due South or Cuba Past and Present + +Author: Maturin M. Ballou + +Release Date: September 29, 2009 [EBook #30130] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DUE SOUTH OR CUBA PAST AND PRESENT *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Ritu Aggarwal and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p><b>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:</b></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p> +1. A few chapter sub-headings do not end with a period in the original. For +consistency, obvious errors have been corrected by ending these with a period.<br /><br /> + +2. A few obvious misprints where sentences did not end with a period have been corrected.<br /><br /> + +3. The following misprints have been corrected:<br /> + "which we pet in our" corrected to "which we put in our" (page 243)<br /> + "Britian" corrected to "Britain" (page 271)<br /><br /> + +4. Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in +spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and ligature usage have been retained. +</p></div> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h1>DUE SOUTH</h1> +<h5>OR</h5> +<h2>CUBA PAST AND PRESENT<br /><br /><br /></h2> + + +<h5>BY</h5> +<h3>MATURIN M. BALLOU</h3> +<h5>AUTHOR OF "DUE WEST; OR ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS"<br /><br /><br /><br /></h5> + + +<h5>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</h5> +<h4>HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY</h4> +<h5>The Riverside Press, Cambridge</h5> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p style='text-align:center;'>Copyright, 1885,<br /> +By MATURIN M. BALLOU.<br /><br /> + +<i>All rights reserved.</i><br /><br /><br /><br /> + + +ELEVENTH IMPRESSION<br /><br /><br /><br /> + + +<i>The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A.</i><br /> +Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company.</p> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these +pages, entitled "Due West; or Round the World in Ten Months," has +suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, +which consists of notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn +in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been to present a +comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict +the political and moral darkness which have so long enshrouded it. +A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful +flora and vegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty +enjoyment to the author that he desires to share the pleasure with +the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical +position of the island, its present critical condition, and the +proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it +at present of unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, +Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, and both are so Moorish +as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics.</p> + +<p style='text-align:right;'>M. M. B.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></td><td><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td> +Departure. — On Board Ship. — Arrival at Nassau. — Capital +of the Bahamas. — Climate. — Soil. — Fruits and Flowers. +— Magic Fertility. — Colored Population. — The Blockade +Runners. — Population. — Products. — A Picturesque Local +Scene. — Superstition. — Fish Story. — The Silk-Cotton +Tree. — Remarkable Vegetation. — The Sea Gardens. — Marine +Animal Life. — The Bahama Banks. — Burial at Sea. — Venal +Officials. — Historical Characters. — The Early Buccaneers. +— Diving for Drinking-Water. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Among the Islands. — San Salvador. — A Glimpse at the Stars. — Hayti. — The +Gulf Stream. — The Caribbean Sea. — +Latitude and Longitude. — The Southern Coast of Cuba. — A +Famous Old Fortress. — Fate of Political Prisoners. — The +Oldest City in Cuba. — The Aborigines. — Cuban Cathedrals. +— Drinking Saloons. — Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. — Scenes +in Santiago de Cuba. — Devoured by Sharks. — Lying at +Anchor. — Wreck of a Historic Ship. — Cuban Circulating +Medium. — Tropical Temperature. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Doubling Cape Cruz. — Trinidad. — Cienfuegos. — The Plaza. +— Beggars. — Visit to a Sugar Plantation. — Something +about Sugar. — An Original Character. — A Tropical Fruit +Garden. — Cuban Hospitality. — The Banana. — Lottery +Tickets. — Chinese Coolies. — Blindness in Cuba. — Birds +and Poultry. — The Cock-Pit. — Negro Slavery, To-Day. — +Spanish Slaveholders. — A Slave Mutiny. — A Pleasant +Journey across the Island. — Pictures of the Interior. — +Scenery about Matanzas. — The Tropics and the North +contrasted. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Great Genoese Pilot. — Discovery of Cuba. — Its Various +Names. — Treatment of the Natives. — Tobacco! — Flora of +the Island. — Strange Idols. — Antiquity. — Habits of the +Aborigines. — Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. — A +Native Entertainment. — Paying Tribute. — Ancient Remains. +— Wrong Impression of Columbus. — First Attempt at +Colonization. — Battle with the Indians. — First Governor +of Cuba. — Founding Cities. — Emigration from Spain. — +Conquest of Mexico. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Baracoa, the First Capital. — West Indian Buccaneers. — +Military Despotism. — A Perpetual State of Siege. — A +Patriotic Son of Cuba. — Political Condition of the Island. +— Education of Cuban Youths. — Attempts at Revolution. — +Fate of General Narciso Lopez. — The Late Civil War and its +Leader. — Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. — +Stronghold of the Insurgents. — Guerrillas. — Want of +Self-Reliance. — Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. — +What Spain was. — What Spain is. — Rise and Fall of an +Empire. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Geographical. — A Remarkable Weed. — Turtle-Hunting. — +Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. — The Gulf Stream. — Deep-Sea +Soundings. — Mountain Range of Cuba. — Curious Geological +Facts. — Subterranean Caverns. — Wild Animals. — The +Rivers of the Island. — Fine Harbors. — Historic Memories +of the Caribbean Sea. — Sentinel of the Gulf. — Importance +of the Position. — Climate. — Hints for Invalids. — +Matanzas. — Execution of a Patriot. — Valley of Yumuri; +Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +City of Havana. — First Impressions. — The Harbor. — +Institutions. — Lack of Educational Facilities. — Cuban +Women. — Street Etiquette. — Architecture. — Domestic +Arrangements. — Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. — +Public Vehicles. — Uncleanliness of the Streets. — Spanish +or African! — The Church Bells. — Home-Keeping Habits of +Ladies. — Their Patriotism. — Personal Characteristics. — +Low Ebb of Social Life. — Priestcraft. — Female Virtue. — +Domestic Ties. — A Festive Population. — Cosmetics. — +Sea-Bathing. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Sabbath Scenes in Havana. — Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. +— City Squares and their Ornamentation. — The Cathedral. — +Tomb of Columbus. — Plaza de Armas. — Out-Door Concerts. — +Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. — Superbly Appointed Cafés. +— Gambling. — Lottery Tickets. — Fast Life. — Masquerade +Balls. — Carnival Days. — The Famous Tacon Theatre. — The +Havana Casino. — Public Statues. — Beauties of the +Governor's Garden. — The Alameda. — The Old Bell-Ringer. — +Military Mass. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Political Inquisition. — Fashionable Streets of the City. — +Tradesmen's Signs. — Bankrupt Condition of Traders. — The +Spanish Army. — Exiled Patriots. — Arrival of Recruits. — +The Garrote. — A Military Execution. — Cuban Milk Dealers. +— Exposure of Domestic Life. — Living in the Open Air. — +The Campo Santo of Havana. — A Funeral Cortége. — Punishing +Slaves. — Campo de Marte. — Hotel Telegrafo. — Environs of +the City. — Bishop's Garden. — Consul-General Williams. — +Mineral Springs. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Fish-Market of Havana. — The Dying Dolphin. — Tax upon +the Trade. — Extraordinary Monopoly. — Harbor Boats. — A +Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. — King of the Isle of +Pines. — The Offered Reward. — Sentinels in the Plaza de +Armas. — The Governor-General and the Intruder. — "I am +Captain Marti!" — The Betrayal. — The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. +— The Pardon and the Reward. — Tacon's Stewardship and +Official Career. — Monopoly of Theatricals. — A Negro +Festival. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +The Havana Lottery. — Its Influence. — Hospitality of the +Cubans. — About Bonnets. — The Creole Lady's Face. — Love +of Flowers. — An Atmospheric Narcotic. — The Treacherous +Indian Fig. — How the Cocoanut is propagated. — Cost of +Living in Cuba. — Spurious Liquors. — A Pleasant Health +Resort. — The Cock-Pit. — Game-Birds. — Their Management. +— A Cuban Cock-Fight. — Garden of the World. — About +Birds. — Stewed Owl! — Slaughter of the Innocents. — The +Various Fruits. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Traveling by Volante. — Want of Inland Communication. — +Americans Profitable Customers. — The Cruel National Game. +— The Plaza de Toros. — Description of a Bull-Fight. — The +Infection of Cruelty. — The Romans and Spaniards compared. +— Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" — Women at the +Fight. — The Nobility of the Island. — The Monteros. — +Ignorance of the Common People. — Scenes in the Central +Market, Havana. — Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. — An Original +Style of Dude. — A Mendicant Prince. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Introduction of Sugar-Cane. — Sugar Plantations. — Mode of +Manufacture. — Slaves on the Plantations. — African +Amusements. — The Grinding Season. — The Coffee +Plantations. — A Floral Paradise. — Refugees from San +Domingo. — Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. — Three +Staple Productions of Cuba. — Raising Coffee and Tobacco. — +Best Soils for the Tobacco. — Agricultural Possibilities. — +The Cuban Fire-Fly. — A Much-Dreaded Insect. — The Ceiba +Tree. — About Horses and Oxen. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XIV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Consumption of Tobacco. — The Delicious Fruits of the +Tropics. — Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. — +The Royal Palm. — The Mulberry Tree. — Silk Culture. — The +Island once covered by Forests. — No Poisonous Reptiles. — +The Cuban Bloodhound. — Hotbed of African Slavery. — +Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. — The Coolie System of +Slavery. — Ah-Lee draws a Prize. — Native African Races. — +Negroes buying their Freedom. — Laws favoring the Slaves. — +Example of San Domingo. — General Emancipation. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_260">260</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XV.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Slave Trade with Africa. — Where the Slavers made their +Landing. — An Early Morning Ride. — Slaves marching to +Daily Labor. — Fragrance of the Early Day. — Mist upon the +Waters. — A Slave Ship. — A Beautiful but Guilty +Brigantine. — A French Cruiser. — Cunning Seamanship. — A +Wild Goose Chase. — A Cuban Posada. — Visit to a Coffee +Estate. — Landing a Slave Cargo. — A Sight to challenge +Sympathy and Indignation. — Half-Starved Victims. — +Destruction of the Slave Ship. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_282">282</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td align="center"><b>CHAPTER XVI.</b></td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> +Antique Appearance of Everything. — The Yeomen of Cuba. — A +Montero's Home. — Personal Experience. — The Soil of the +Island. — Oppression by the Government. — Spanish Justice +in Havana. — Tax upon the Necessities of Life. — The +Proposed Treaty with Spain. — A One-Sided Proposition. — A +Much Taxed People. — Some of the Items of Taxation. — Fraud +and Bankruptcy. — The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. — +Destiny of Cuba. — A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. — +Political Condition. — Pictures of Memory. +</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#Page_300">300</a></td></tr> + +</table> + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1>DUE SOUTH.</h1> + +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Departure. — On Board Ship. — Arrival at Nassau. — Capital +of the Bahamas. — Climate. — Soil. — Fruits and Flowers. +— Magic Fertility. — Colored Population. — The Blockade +Runners. — Population. — Products. — A Picturesque Local +Scene. — Superstition. — Fish Story. — The Silk-Cotton +Tree. — Remarkable Vegetation. — The Sea Gardens. — Marine +Animal Life. — The Bahama Banks. — Burial at Sea. — Venal +Officials. — Historical Characters. — The Early Buccaneers. +— Diving for Drinking-Water. +</div> + +<p>We left Boston in a blustering snow-storm on the morning of February +25th, and reached New York city to find it also clothed in a wintry +garb, Broadway being lined on either side of its entire length with +tall piles of snow, like haycocks, prepared for carting away during +the coming night. Next morning, when we drove to the dock to take +passage on board the steamship Cienfuegos, the snow-mounds had all +been removed. The mail steamer sailed promptly at the hour assigned, +hauled out into the stream by a couple of noisy little tugs, with +two-inch hawsers made fast to stem and stern. Before sunset the pilot +left the ship, which was then headed due south for Nassau, N. P., +escorted by large fields of floating ice, here and there decked with +lazy snow-white sea-gulls. The sharp northwest wind, though +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> +blustering and aggressive, was in our favor, and the ship spread all +her artificial wings as auxiliary to her natural motor. We doubled +Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout well in towards the shore, sighting on +the afternoon of the fourth day the Island of Abaco, largest of the +Bahama Isles, with its famous "Hole in the Wall" and sponge-lined +shore. The woolen clothing worn when we came on board ship had already +become oppressive, the cabin thermometer indicating 72° Fahrenheit. +With nothing to engage the eye save the blue sky and the bluer water, +the most is made of every circumstance at sea, and even trivial +occurrences become notable. The playful dolphins went through their +aquatic pantomime for our amusement. Half a dozen of them started off +just ahead of the cutwater, and raced the ship for two hours, keeping +exactly the same relative distance ahead without any apparent effort. +Scores of others leaped out of the water and plunged in again in +graceful curves, as though they enjoyed the sport. A tiny land bird +flew on board, and was chased all over the ship by one or two +juveniles until caught, panting and trembling with the unwonted +exertion. Presently it was given its liberty, partook freely of bread +crumbs and drank of fresh water, then assumed a perch aloft, where it +carefully dressed its feathers, and after thanking its entertainers +with a few cheerful notes it extended its wings and launched out into +space, no land being in sight. The broken mainmast of a ship, +floating, with considerable top hamper attached, was passed within a +cable's length, suggestive of a recent wreck, and inducing a thousand +dreary surmises. At first it was announced as the sea serpent, but its +true nature was soon obvious. At midnight, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>March 1st, Nassau light +hove in sight, dimmed by a thin, soft haze, which hung over the water, +and through which the light, by some law of refraction, seemed to be +coming out to meet the ship. Overhead all was bright,—almost dazzling +with unnumbered stars and familiar constellations, like silver +spangles on a background of blue velvet. We anchored off the island an +hour before daylight, the harbor being too shallow to admit the ship. +A forbidding sand bar blocks the entrance, inside of which the water +is but fifteen feet deep. Indeed, Nassau would have no harbor at all +were it not that nature has kindly placed Hog Island in the form of a +break-water, just off the town. The vibrating hull of the Cienfuegos +was once more at rest; the stout heart-throbs, the panting and +trembling, of the great engine had ceased; the wheelhouse and decks +were deserted, and one was fain to turn in below for a brief nap +before landing on this the most populous of the Bahamas.</p> + +<p>The island, which was settled by Europeans as early as 1629, embraces +nearly a hundred square miles, forming an oasis in the desert of +waters. It is sixteen miles long and about one half as wide, +containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, more or less, who can hardly +be designated as an enterprising community. On first landing, +everything strikes the visitor as being peculiarly foreign,—almost +unique. The town is situated on the northerly front of the island, +extending along the shore for a couple of miles, and back to a crest +of land which rises to nearly the height of a hundred feet. This +elevation is crowned by the residence of the English Governor-General, +in front of which may be seen a colossal but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>not admirable statue of +Columbus. The town boasts a small public library, a museum, theatre, +several small churches, a prison, a hospital, and a bank. The +government maintains one company of infantry, composed of black men, +officered by whites. It must be admitted that they present a fine +military appearance when on parade. Nassau has long been a popular +resort for invalids who seek a soft, equable climate, and as it lies +between the warm South Atlantic and the Gulf Stream it is +characterized by the usual temperature of the tropics. There seemed to +be a certain enervating influence in the atmosphere, under the effects +of which the habitués of the place were plainly struck with a spirit +of indolence. The difference between those just arrived and the +regular guests of the Victoria Hotel, in this respect, could not fail +to be observed. The languidly oppressive warmth imparts a certain +softness to manners, a voluptuous love of idleness, and a glow to the +affections which are experienced with less force at the North. Neither +snow nor frost is ever encountered here, and yet it is as near to +Boston or New York as is the city of Chicago. The temperature, we are +told, never falls below 64° Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82°, the +variations rarely exceeding five degrees in twenty-four hours. In +Florida a change of twenty degrees is not unusual within the period of +a single day. The thermometer stood at 73° on the first day of March, +and everything was bathed in soft sunlight.</p> + +<p>It is somewhat singular that an island like New Providence, which is +practically without soil, should be so remarkably productive in its +vegetation. It is surrounded by low-lying coral reefs, and is itself +composed of coral and limestone. These, pulverized, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>actually form the +earth out of which spring noble palm, banana, ceiba, orange, lemon, +tamarind, almond, mahogany, and cocoanut trees, with a hundred and one +other varieties of fruits, flowers, and woods, including the +bread-fruit tree, that natural food for indolent natives of equatorial +regions. Of course in such a soil the plough is unknown, its +substitutes being the pickaxe and crowbar. However, science teaches us +that all soils are but broken and decomposed rock, pulverized by +various agencies acting through long periods of time. So the molten +lava which once poured from the fiery mouth of Vesuvius has become the +soil of thriving vineyards, which produce the priceless Lachryma +Christi wine. This transformation is not accomplished in a lifetime, +but is the result of ages of slow disintegration.</p> + +<p>Among other flowering trees, some strikingly beautiful specimens of +the alligator-pear in full bloom were observed, the blossom suggesting +the passion-flower. While our favorite garden plants at the North are +satisfied to bloom upon lowly bushes, at the South they are far more +ambitious, and develop into tall trees, though sometimes at the +partial expense of their fragrance. The air was full of sweet perfume +from the white blossoms of the shaddock, contrasting with the deep +glossy green of its thick-set leaves, the spicy pimento and cinnamon +trees being also noticeable. With all this charming floral effect the +bird melody which greets the ear in Florida was wanting, though it +would seem to be so natural an adjunct to the surroundings. Nature's +never-failing rule of compensation is manifested here: all the +attractions are not bestowed upon any one class; brilliancy of +feathers and sweetness of song do not go together. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>The torrid zone +endows the native birds with brilliant plumage, while the colder North +gives its feathered tribes the winning charm of melody.</p> + +<p>The soil of these Bahama Islands, composed of such unpromising +ingredients, shows in its prolific yield how much vegetation depends +for its sustenance upon atmospheric air, especially in tropical +climes. The landlord of the Victoria Hotel told us, as an evidence of +the fertility of the soil, that radish seeds which were planted on the +first day of the month would sufficiently mature and ripen by the +twenty-first—that is in three weeks—for use upon the table; and also +that potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons were relatively +expeditious in ripening here after planting. Our mind reverted to the +jugglers of Madras and Bombay, who made an orange-tree grow from the +seed, and bear fruit before our very eyes, at a single sitting.</p> + +<p>The luscious pineapple, zapota, mango, pomegranate, guava, star-apple, +citron, custard-apple, mammee, and other fruits abound. The +profuseness and variety of beautiful ferns and orchidaceous plants +will also be sure to attract the attention of the Northern visitor. +The rocky formation of the soil produces good natural roads, so that a +long drive in the environs of Nassau is like a pleasure excursion over +a well-macadamized thoroughfare. We were told of a delightful drive of +fifteen miles in length which follows the sea beach the whole +distance, but did not find time to test its attractions, though +strongly tempted by the excellence of the roads. Here, as in other +tropical regions, each month has its special floral display, although +there are many, and indeed a majority, of the plants which continue to +flower all <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>the year round. We observed that the stone walls and +hedges were now and again covered for short spaces with the +coral-vine, whose red blossoms, so pleasing to the eye, emit no odor. +The yellow jasmine was dazzlingly conspicuous everywhere, and very +fragrant. Red and white roses, various species of cacti, and +tube-roses bloomed before the rude thatched cabins of the negroes in +the environs, as well as in the tiny front gardens of the whites in +the streets of the town; while red, white, and pink oleanders grew as +tall as trees, and flower here every month in the year. The +night-blooming cereus abounds, opening just at sunset, and closing +again at break of day. The outside leaves of this poetical flower are +of a pale green, the inner ones of a pure wax-like white, and the +petals light yellow. Complete, it is about eight inches long, and from +twelve to fifteen in circumference.</p> + +<p>While we drove through the suburbs, slatternly, half-clothed family +groups of negroes watched us with curious eyes, and on the road aged +colored men and women were occasionally met, who saluted us with grave +dignity. No one seemed to be at work; sunshine was the only +perceptible thing going on, ripening the fruits and vegetables by its +genial rays, while the negroes waited for the harvest. Like the birds, +they had no occasion to sow, but only to pluck and to eat. There was, +both in and out of the town, a tumble-down, mouldy aspect to the +dwellings, which seemed to be singularly neglected and permitted to +lapse into decay. With the exception of the town of Nassau, and its +immediate environs, New Providence is nearly all water and wilderness; +it has some circumscribed lakes, but no mountains, rivers, or +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +rivulets. The island is justly famous for the beauty and variety of +its lovely flowers. It is true that the rose is not quite equal in +color, development, and fragrance to ours of the North; Nature has so +many indigenous flowers on which to expend her liberality that she +bestows less attention upon this, the loveliest of them all. The +Cherokee rose, single-leafed, now so rare with us, seems here to have +found a congenial foreign home. In the suburbs of Nassau are many +attractive flowers, fostered only by the hand of Nature. Among them +was the triangular cactus, with its beautiful yellow blossom, like a +small sunflower, supported by a deep green triangular stem.</p> + +<p>The pendulous cactus was also hanging here and there on walls and tree +trunks, in queer little jointed, pipe-stem branches. The royal palm, +that king of tropical vegetation, is not very abundant here, but yet +sufficiently so to characterize the place. Its roots resemble those of +asparagus, and are innumerable. Another peculiarity of the palm is +that it starts a full-sized trunk; therefore, not the diameter, but +the height, determines its age, which is recorded by annual concentric +rings clearly defined upon its tall, straight stem.</p> + +<p>During the late civil war in the United States, when blockade runners +made this place a port of call and a harbor for refitting, it was by +English connivance practically a Confederate port. The officers and +sailors expended their ill-gotten wealth with the usual lavishness of +the irresponsible, the people of Nassau reaping thereby a fabulous +harvest in cash. This was quite demoralizing to honest industry, and, +as might be expected, a serious reaction has followed. Legitimate +trade and industry will require years <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>before they can reassert +themselves. Sudden and seeming prosperity is almost sure to be equally +transitory. We were told that, during the entire period in which the +Confederates resorted here under the open encouragement and protection +of England, the town was the scene of the most shameful drunken orgies +from morning until night. Lewdness and crime were rampant. Officers +played pitch-penny on the veranda of the Victoria Hotel with gold +eagles, and affiliated openly with negresses. The evil influence upon +all concerned was inevitable, and its poisonous effect is not yet +obliterated.</p> + +<p>Three quarters of the present population are negroes, but of course +all trace of the aborigines has disappeared. It is curious and +interesting to know what Columbus thought of them. He wrote to his +royal mistress, after having explored these Bahamas, as follows: "This +country excels all others as far as the day surpasses the night in +splendor; the natives love their neighbors as themselves: their +conversation is the sweetest imaginable, and their faces are always +smiling. So gentle and so affectionate are they that I swear to your +highness there is no better people in the world."</p> + +<p>The negroes are mostly engaged in cultivating patches of pineapples, +and yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables; a large number of the +males employ themselves also in fishing and gathering sponges. It will +be remembered that from this locality comes the principal supply of +coarse sponge for Europe and America. There is also a considerable +trade, carried on in a small way, in fine turtle-shell, which is +polished in an exquisite manner, and manufactured by the natives into +ornaments. Though the Bahama <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>sponges are not equal to those obtained +in the Mediterranean, still they are marketable, and Nassau exports +half a million dollars' worth annually. It is a curious fact that +sponges can be propagated by cuttings taken from living specimens, +which, when attached to a piece of board and sunk in the sea, will +increase and multiply. Thus the finest Mediterranean specimens may be +successfully transplanted to the coral reefs of these islands, the +only requisite to their sustenance seeming to be a coralline shore and +limestone surroundings. Another important industry which gives +employment to a considerable number of the inhabitants is the canning +of pineapples, a process which is equivalent to preserving them for +any length of time. One firm on Bay Street, as we were informed, +canned and exported nearly a million of pines in one season, lately; +and another, engaged in the fresh-fruit trade, shipped to the States +fifteen cargoes of pines in one year, besides many thousands of +cocoanuts. These are not all raised in Nassau, but this port is made +the headquarters for collecting and disposing of the fruit grown upon +what are termed the out-islands, as well as marketing the large +product of its own soil. It is but a short drive inland to the +extensive pineapple fields, where the handsome fruit may be seen in +the several stages of growth, varying according to the season of the +year. If intended for exportation, the fruit is gathered green; if for +canning purposes, the riper it is the better. The visitor will also be +impressed by the beauty and grace of the cocoanut trees, their pinnate +leaves often a hundred feet from the ground, notwithstanding the bare +cylindrical stem attains a thickness of only two feet.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +The Royal Victoria Hotel, though bearing a loyal name, is kept by an +American, and is a very substantial, capacious building, composed of +native limestone, four stories high, three of which are surrounded by +wide piazzas, which afford the shade so necessary in a land of +perpetual summer. The native stone of which the island is composed is +so soft when first quarried that it can easily be cut or sawed into +any shape desired, but it hardens very rapidly after exposure to the +atmosphere. The hotel will accommodate three hundred guests, and is a +positive necessity for the comfort and prosperity of the place. It was +built and is owned by the British government, who erected it some +twenty-five years since. At the time of our arrival there was gathered +under the lofty Moorish portico of the hotel a most picturesque group +of negroes, of both sexes and of all ages, their ebony faces forming a +strong contrast to the background of well-whitewashed walls. Some of +the women were dressed in neat calico gowns, and wore broad-brimmed +straw hats; some were in rags, hatless, shoeless, and barelegged; some +had high-colored kerchiefs wound turban-like about their woolly heads; +and some wore scarlet shawls, the sight of which would have driven a +Spanish bull raving mad. There were coquettish mulatto girls with +bouquets for sale, and fancy flowers wrought of shells; these last of +most exquisite workmanship. Specimens of this native shell-work were +sent to the Vienna Exposition, where they received honorable mention, +and were afterwards purchased and presented to the Prince of Wales. +Old gray-haired negroes, with snow-white beards on a black ground, +offered fruits in great variety,—zapotas, mangoes, pineapples, and +grape-fruit. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>Others had long strings of sponges for sale, wound +round their shoulders like huge snakes; some of these were good, but +many were utterly useless. No one knows this better than the cunning +negroes themselves, but strangers, only touching at Nassau, they do +not expect to see again, and there is proverbially cheating in all +trades but ours. A bright, thrifty-looking colored woman had spread +out her striped shawl upon the ground, and on this arrayed a really +fine collection of conch-shells for sale, delicately polished, and of +choice shapes. When first brought to the surface by the divers they +are not infrequently found to contain pearls imbedded in the palatable +and nutritious meat. These pearls are generally of a pinkish hue, and +greatly prized by the jewelers. Now and then a diver will realize a +hundred dollars for one of them. From the conch-shell also come the +best shell cameos. A smart half-breed offered canes of ebony, lignum +vitæ, lance, and orange wood, all of native growth. He was dressed in +a white linen jacket, pantaloons to match, with a semi-military cap, +cocked on one side of his head,—quite a colored dude. The women who +sell native-made baskets are most persistent, but if you purchase of +them make your own change, for they are apt to take money away for +this purpose and to forget to return. Negro nature is frail, +characterized at Nassau by theft and licentiousness, but great crimes +are rare. If you have occasion to hire a boat for a sail in the +harbor, be sure to find and employ "Bushy," a tall, intelligent +darkey, the best boatman and stroke-oar in Nassau.</p> + +<p>Bushy showed us what he called a fish-whip, made from the whipray, a +fish quite new to us, but indigenous <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>to these waters. With a body +shaped like a flounder, it has a tail often ten feet long, tapering +from about one inch in thickness at the butt to an eighth of an inch +at the small end. When dried this resembles whalebone, and makes a +good coach-whip. There is a great variety of fish in and about the +Bahamas. We saw, just landed at Nassau, a jew-fish, which takes the +same place here that the halibut fills at the North, being cut into +steaks and fried in a similar manner. They are among the largest of +edible fish, and this specimen weighed about four hundred pounds. +According to Bushy, at certain seasons of the year the jew-fish lies +dormant upon the sandy bottom, and refuses to take the bait. In these +transparent waters he is easily seen when in this condition, and the +native fishermen then dive down and place a stout hook in his mouth! +Though this may sound like a "fish story," we were assured by others +of its truth. Bushy undertook to give us the names of the various +fishes which abound here, but the long list of them and his peculiar +pronunciation drove us nearly wild. Still a few are remembered; such +as the yellow-tailed snapper, striped snapper, pork-fish, angel-fish, +cat-fish, hound-fish, the grouper, sucking-fish, and so on. Both +harbor and deep sea fishing afford the visitor to Nassau excellent +amusement, and many sportsmen go thither annually from New York solely +for its enjoyment.</p> + +<p>The colored people of Nassau, as we were assured by one competent to +speak upon the subject, form a religious community, according to the +ordinary acceptation of the term. They are very fond of church-going, +and of singing and shouting on all religious <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>occasions. Nervously +emotional, they work themselves up to a hysterical condition so +furious as to threaten their sanity, but having naturally so little of +that qualification, they are pretty safe. No people could possibly be +more superstitious. They shut up and double lock the doors and windows +of their cabins at night to keep out evil spirits. There are regular +professional man-witches among them, persons a little shrewder and +more cunning than their fellows. The very ignorant believe in a sort +of fetichism, so that when a boat starts on a sponge-fishing trip, the +obeah man is called upon for some coöperation and mysticism, to insure +a successful return of the crew. The sponge fishermen have several +hundred boats regularly licensed, and measuring on an average twenty +tons each. On favorable occasions these men lay aside their legitimate +calling, and become for the time being wreckers, an occupation which +verges only too closely upon piracy. The intricate navigation of these +waters, dotted by hundreds of small reefs and islands, and which can +be traversed by only three safe channels, has furnished in former +years a large amount of shipwrecked merchandise to Nassau. The +wrecking business at best is extremely demoralizing, unfitting any +community of men for legitimate industry, as we know very well by the +experience gained on our own Florida shore. Men who have cruised +fruitlessly for months in search of a profitable wreck will sometimes +be tempted to decoy a ship from her proper course, and lead her upon +the rocks, by a display of false lights.</p> + +<p>In front of the Victoria Hotel are some noble specimens of the ceiba, +or silk-cotton tree, as it is called here, the finest and loftiest we +have seen in any <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>country. These trees, naturally slow growers, must +be over a century in age, and afford, by their widespread branches, a +shade equally graceful and grateful. Like the india-rubber trees of +Asia, these ceibas have at least one half of their anaconda-like roots +exposed upon the surface of the ground, dividing the lower portion of +the stem into supporting buttresses, a curious piece of finesse on the +part of nature to overcome the disadvantage of insufficient soil. The +tree bears annually a large seed-pod, packed with cotton of a soft, +silky texture, and hence its name. It is, however, suitable neither +for timber nor fuel, and the small product of cotton is seldom if ever +gathered. The islanders are proud of a single specimen of the banyan +tree of considerable size, which they show to all visitors; but it +cannot be indigenous—it must have been brought in its youth from +Asia. There is, however, in these West Indian isles, the black +mangrove, with very similar habit to the banyan. The limbs spread to +such an extent from the trunk as to require support to prevent them +from breaking off or bending to the ground by their own weight; but to +obviate this, nature has endowed the tree with a peculiar growth. When +the branches have become so heavy as to be no longer able to support +themselves, they send forth from the under side sprigs which, rapidly +descending to the ground, take root like the banyan, and become +supporting columns to the heavy branches above. So the writer has seen +in Hindostan a vine which grew, almost leafless, closely +entwined around the trees to the very top, whence it descended, took +fresh root, and ascended the nearest adjoining tree, until it had gone +on binding an entire grove in a ligneous rope. Long tendrils of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +love-vine, that curious aerial creeper, which feeds on air alone, +were seen hanging across some of the low branches of the Nassau trees, +and we were told that the plant will grow equally well if hung upon a +nail indoors. Emblematic of true affection, it clings, like Japanese +ivy, tenaciously to the object it fixes upon. One specimen was shown +to us which had developed to the size of the human hand from a single +leaf carelessly pinned by a guest to one of the chamber walls of the +hotel.</p> + +<p>There are said to be six hundred of the Bahama islands, large and +small, of which Nassau is the capital, and there, as already +intimated, the English Governor-General resides. This numerical +calculation is undoubtedly correct; many are mere rocky islets, and +not more than twenty have fixed inhabitants. Is there anything more +wonderful in nature than that these hundreds of isles should have been +built up from the bottom of the sea by insects so small as to be +microscopic? All lie north of Cuba and St. Domingo, just opposite the +Gulf of Mexico, easily accessible from our own shores by a short and +pleasant sea-voyage of three or four days. They are especially +inviting to those persons who have occasion to avoid the rigor of +Northern winters. People threatened with consumption seek Nassau on +sanitary principles, and yet it was found upon inquiry that many +natives die of that insidious disease, which rapidly runs its career +when it is first developed in a tropical climate. To the author it +would seem that consumptives might find resorts better adapted to the +recovery of their health. Intermittent fever, also, is not unknown at +Nassau.</p> + +<p>The sea gardens, as they are called, situated just <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>off the shores of +the island, are well worth a visit; where, by means of a simple +instrument of wood and glass, one is enabled to look many fathoms +below the surface of the water, which is here so remarkable for its +transparency. These water glasses are all of home manufacture, easily +improvised, being formed of a small wooden box three or four inches +square, open at the top, and having a water-tight glass bottom. With +the glass portion slightly submerged, one is enabled to see distinctly +the beautiful coral reefs, with their marvelous surroundings. There +are displayed tiny caves and grottoes of white coral of great delicacy +and variety, star-fishes, sea-urchins, growing sponges, sea-fans, and +gaudy-colored tropical fishes, including the humming-bird-fish, and +others like butterflies with mottled fins and scales, and that little +oddity the rainbow-fish. The prevailing color of this attractive +creature is dark green, but the tinted margins of its scales so +reflect the light as to show all the colors of the rainbow, and hence +its name. When bottled in alcohol, these fairy-like denizens of the +deep lose their brilliancy, which they exhibit only in their native +element. This unique display is greatly enhanced in beauty by the +clearness of the Bahama waters, and the reflected light from the +snow-white sandy bottom, dotted here and there by curious and delicate +shells of opalescent lustre. One longs to descend among these coral +bowers,—these mermaid-gardens,—and pluck of the submarine flora in +its purple, yellow, and scarlet freshness.</p> + +<p>It will be remembered that Columbus wrote home to his royal patrons +that the fish which abounded in the seas partook of the same novelty +which characterized everything else in the New World. This was about +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +four hundred years ago, before the great Genoese had discovered Cuba. +"The fish," as he wrote, "rivaled the birds in tropical brilliancy of +color, the scales of some of them glancing back the rays of light like +precious stones, as they sported about the ships and flashed gleams of +gold and silver through the clear water."</p> + +<p>The surface life of these translucent waters is also extremely +interesting. Here the floating jelly-fish, called, from its +phosphorescence, the glow-worm of the sea, is observed in great +variety, sheltering little colonies of young fishes within its +tentacles, which rush forth for a moment to capture some passing mite, +and as quickly return again to their shelter. One takes up a handful +of the floating gulf-weed and finds, within the pale yellow leaves and +berries, tiny pipe-fish, sea-horses, and the little nest-building +antennarius, thus forming a buoyant home for parasites, crabs, and +mollusks, itself a sort of mistletoe of the ocean. The young of the +mackerel and the herring glance all about just beneath the surface +near the shore, like myriad pieces of silver. Now and again that +particolored formation of marine life, the Portuguese man-of-war, is +observed, its long ventral fins spread out like human fingers to +steady it upon the surface of the water. Verily, the German scientist +who says there is more of animal life beneath the surface of the sea +than above it cannot be far amiss. This seems to be the more +reasonable when we consider the relative proportions of land and +water. The whole surface of the globe is supposed to have an area of +about two hundred million square miles. Of these only about fifty +millions are dry land. Within the harbor of Nassau the divisions of +shoal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>and deep water presented most singular and clearly defined +lines of color, azure, purple, and orange-leaf green,—so marked as to +be visible half a mile away. All was beneath a sky so deeply and +serenely blue as constantly to recall the arching heavens of middle +India.</p> + +<p>The Bahama Banks is a familiar expression to most of us, but perhaps +few clearly understand the significance of the term, which is applied +to a remarkable plateau at the western extremity of the archipelago, +occupying a space between two and three hundred miles long, and about +one third as wide. These banks, as they are called, rise almost +perpendicularly from an unfathomable depth of water, and are of coral +formation. In sailing over them the bottom is distinctly seen from the +ship's deck, the depth of water being almost uniformly forty to fifty +feet. Some years since, when the author was crossing these banks in a +sailing ship, a death occurred among the foremast hands, and the usual +sea burial followed. The corpse was sewn up in a hammock, with iron +weights at the feet, the more readily to sink it. After reading the +burial service the body was launched into the sea from a grating +rigged out of a gangway amidship. The waters were perfectly calm, and +the barque had but little headway. Indeed, we lay almost as still as +though anchored, so that the body was seen to descend slowly alongside +until it reached the calcareous, sandy bottom, where it assumed an +upright and strangely lifelike position, as though standing upon its +feet. An ominous silence reigned among the watching crew, and it was a +decided relief to all hands when a northerly wind sprang up, filling +the canvas and giving the vessel steerage way.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +So many years have passed since the occurrence of the scene just +related that we may give its sequel without impropriety, though, at +the same time, we expose the venal character of Spanish officials. The +man we buried on the Bahama Banks had died of small-pox, though no +other person on board showed any symptoms of the disease. On entering +the harbor of Havana, three days later, we had been hailed from Moro +Castle and had returned the usual answer. A couple of doubloons in +gold made the boarding officer conveniently blind, and a similar fee +thrust quietly into the doctor's hand insured a "clean bill of +health," under which we were permitted to land! The alternative was +twenty-one days' quarantine.</p> + +<p>Fort Montague, mounting four rusty guns, "with ne'er a touch-hole to +any on 'em," as Bushy informed us, stands upon a projecting point +about a mile from the town of Nassau, the road thither forming a +delightful evening promenade, or drive. The fort is old, crumbling, +and time-worn, but was once occupied by the buccaneers as a most +important stronghold commanding the narrow channel. These sea-robbers +imposed a heavy tax upon all shipping passing this way, and for many +years realized a large income from this source. It was only piracy in +another form. Most vessels found it cheaper to pay than to fight. When +the notorious Black Beard had his headquarters at Nassau, he sought no +such pretext, but preyed upon all commerce alike, provided the vessels +were not too well armed to be captured. This notorious pirate had an +innate love for cruelty, and often tortured his captives without any +apparent purpose, after the fashion of our Western Indians. When the +English lashed the mutineers of Delhi and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>Cawnpore to the muzzles of +their cannon and blew them to pieces, they were enacting no new +tragedy; legend and history tell us that Black Beard, the pirate of +the Windward Passage, set them that example many years before. His +rule was to murder all prisoners who would not join his ship, and +those whom he took fighting, that is, with arms in their hands, were +subjected to torture, one form of which was that of lashing captives +to the cannon's mouth and applying the match. Fort Montague is not +occupied by even a corporal's guard to-day, and is of no efficiency +whatever against modern gunnery. The reader will thus observe that the +principal business which has engaged Nassau heretofore has been +wrecking, buccaneering, privateering, and blockade running.</p> + +<p>Some noted characters have found an asylum here, first and last. After +Lord Dunmore left Virginia he sought official position and made a home +on the island. He was appointed governor, and some of the buildings +erected by him are still pointed out to the visitor, especially that +known as the Old Fort, just back of the Victoria Hotel, crowning the +height. His summer seat, known as the Hermitage, is a quaint old +place, still in fair condition, and surrounded by oaks and cocoanut +trees, near the sea. Such matters do not often get into history, but +legend tells us that some strange orgies took place at the Hermitage, +where the play was for heavy stakes, and the drinking was of a similar +excessive character.</p> + +<p>Another well-known individual who sought to make a home here, and also +to escape from all former associations, was the notorious +Blennerhasset, a name familiar in connection with Aaron Burr. After +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +his trial, it will be remembered that he suddenly disappeared, and +was heard of no more. He left his country for his country's good, +changing his name to that of Carr. His objective point was Nassau; +there his undoubted talent and legal ability were duly recognized and +he was appointed government attorney, officiating in that capacity for +a number of years. Having deserted his first wife, he found another to +console him upon the island. At last wife number one appeared upon the +island. She had discovered his hiding-place, and a domestic war +ensued. Wife number two carried the day and the rightful spouse was +sent away and paid an annuity to keep away. The pretended Mr. Carr is +said to have finally lapsed into habits of excessive intemperance, and +to have found a stranger's grave on the island.</p> + +<p>Much of the drinking water, and certainly the best in use at Nassau, +as well as on some of the neighboring islands, is procured in a +remarkable, though very simple manner, from the sea. Not far from +shore, on the coral reefs, there are never-failing fresh water +springs, bubbling up from the bottom through the salt water with such +force as clearly to indicate their locality. Over these ocean springs +the people place sunken barrels filled with sand, one above another, +the bottoms and tops being displaced. The fresh water is thus +conducted to the surface through the column of sand, which forms a +perfect filterer. Such a crude arrangement is only temporary, liable +to be displaced by any severe storm which should agitate the +surrounding waters. If destroyed in the hurricane season, these +structures are not renewed until settled weather. In so small and low +lying an island as that of Nassau, it is very plain that this crystal +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +liquid, pure and tasteless, cannot come from any rainfall upon the +soil, and its existence, therefore, suggests a problem, the solving of +which we submit to the scientists.</p> + +<p>On the arid shores of the Persian Gulf, where rain so seldom falls, +and where there are no rills to refresh the parched soil, fresh water +is also obtained from submerged springs beneath the salt water. Here +it is brought to the surface by divers, who descend with a leather +bag, the mouth of which being opened over the bubbling spring is +quickly filled and closed again, being drawn to the surface by those +who are left there to assist the diver, who hastens upward for air. In +descending his feet are weighted with stones, which being cast off at +the proper moment, he naturally rises at once to the surface. This +operation is repeated until a sufficient quantity of fresh water is +procured. There is no mystery, however, as to the source of these +springs. The rain first falls on the distant mountains, and finding +its way downward through the fissures of rocky ledges, pursues its +course until it gushes forth in the bed of the gulf.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Among the Islands. — San Salvador. — A Glimpse at the +Stars. — Hayti. — The Gulf Stream. — The Caribbean Sea. — +Latitude and Longitude. — The Southern Coast of Cuba. — A +Famous Old Fortress. — Fate of Political Prisoners. — The +Oldest City in Cuba. — The Aborigines. — Cuban Cathedrals. +— Drinking Saloons. — Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. — Scenes +in Santiago de Cuba. — Devoured by Sharks. — Lying at +Anchor. — Wreck of a Historic Ship. — Cuban Circulating +Medium. — Tropical Temperature. +</div> + +<p>After leaving Nassau we stood northward for half a day in order to get +a safe and proper channel out of the crooked Bahamas, where there is +more of shoal than of navigable waters, leaving a score of small +islands behind us inhabited only by turtles, flamingoes, and sea +birds. But we were soon steaming due south again towards our objective +point, the island of Cuba, five hundred miles away. San Salvador was +sighted on our starboard bow, the spot where Columbus first landed in +the New World, though even this fact has not escaped the specious +arguments of the iconoclasts. Nevertheless, we gazed upon it with +reverent credulity. It will be found laid down on most English maps as +Cat Island, and is now the home of two or three thousand colored +people. San Salvador is nearly as large as New Providence, and is said +to claim some special advantages over that island in the quality of +its fruits. It is claimed that the oranges grown here are the sweetest +and best in the world, the same excellence being attributed to its +abundant yield of pineapples and other tropical fruits.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +There are so many of these small islands in the Bahama group that the +geographers may be excused for the heterogeneous manner in which they +have placed them on the common maps. To find their true and relative +position one must consult the sailing-charts, where absolute +correctness is supposed to be found, a prime necessity in such +intricate navigation. The total population of the Bahamas has been +ascertained, by census, to be a fraction less than forty thousand.</p> + +<p>The voyager in these latitudes is constantly saluted by gentle breezes +impregnated with tropical fragrance, intensified in effect by the +distant view of cocoanut, palmetto, and banana trees, clothing the +islands and growing down to the water's very edge. As we glide along, +gazing shoreward, now and again little groups of swallows seem to be +flitting only a few feet above the water for a considerable distance, +and then suddenly disappearing beneath the waves. These are +flying-fish enjoying an air bath, either in frolic or in fear; +pursued, may be, by some aqueous enemy, to escape from whom they essay +these aerial flights. The numerous islands, very many of which are +uninhabited, have yet their recorded names, more or less +characteristic, such as Rum Key, Turk's Island,—famous for the export +of salt,—Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Great and Little Inagua, Crooked +Island, and so on, all more or less noted for the disastrous wrecks +which have occurred on their low coralline shores. Our Northern cities +are largely dependent upon the Bahamas for their early annual supplies +of pineapples, cocoanuts, oranges, bananas, and some vegetables, in +which they are all more or less prolific. Here also is the harvest +field of the conchologist, the beaches <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>and coral reefs affording an +abundant supply of exquisitely colored shells, of all imaginable +shapes, including the large and valuable conch-shell, of which many +thousand dollars' worth are annually exported, the contents first +serving the divers for food.</p> + +<p>It was interesting to remain on deck at night and watch the heavens, +as we glided silently through the phosphorescent sea. Was it possible +the grand luminary, which rendered objects so plain that one could +almost read fine print with no other help, shone solely by borrowed +light? We all know it to be so, and also that Venus, Mars, Jupiter, +and Saturn shine in a similar manner with light reflected from the +sun. It was curious to adjust the telescope and bring the starry +system nearer to the vision. If we direct our gaze upon a planet we +find its disk sharply defined; change the direction and let it rest +upon a star, and we have only a point of light, more or less +brilliant. The glass reveals to us the fact that the star-dust which +we call the Milky Way is an aggregation of innumerable single suns. +Sweeping the arching blue with the telescope, we find some stars are +golden, some green, others purple, many silvery-white, and some are +twins. Probably there is no such thing as stars of the first and +second magnitude, as the common expression names them. It is most +likely only a question of distance, which regulates the brightness to +our vision. Science reduces the distances of heavenly bodies from our +earth to figures, but they are so immense as to be simply bewildering. +At the North the moon is silvery, but in tropical skies at night it +becomes golden, glowing, and luxurious in its splendor, never pale and +wan as it seems with us.</p> + +<p>When the lonely lighthouse which marks Cape <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>Maysi, at the easterly +point of Cuba, hove in sight on the starboard bow, the dim form of the +mountains of Hayti was also visible on the opposite horizon. A +subterranean connection is believed to exist between the mountain +ranges of the two islands.</p> + +<p>When the outline of the Haytian mountains was in view, it was very +natural to express a wish to visit the island at some convenient time. +This led to some intelligent and interesting remarks from a compagnon +de voyage, who had resided for two years at Port-au-Prince, the +capital. "Unless you are compelled to land there," said he, "I advise +you to avoid Hayti." He fully confirmed the reports of its barbarous +condition, and declared it to be in a rapid decadence, as regarded +every desirable element of civilization. In the country, a short +distance from either Gonaives, Jacmel, or Port-au-Prince, where the +mass of the negro population live, Voudou worship and cannibalism are +quite common at the present time. The influence of the Voudou priests +is so much feared by the government that the horrible practice is +little interfered with. When the officials are forced to take +cognizance of the crime, the lightest possible punishment is imposed +upon the convicted parties. The island of San Domingo is about half +the size of Cuba, Hayti occupying one third of the western portion, +the rest of the territory belonging to the republic of San Domingo. +"As to Port-au-Prince," said our informant, "it is the dirtiest place +I have ever seen in any part of the world." Nevertheless, the historic +interest clustering about the island is very great. It was the seat of +the first Spanish colony founded in the New World. Its soil has been +bathed in the blood of Europeans as well as of its aboriginal +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +inhabitants. For three hundred years it was the arena of fierce +struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English, passing +alternately under the dominion of each of these powers, until finally, +torn by insurrection and civil war, in 1804 it achieved its +independence. The city of San Domingo, capital of the republic, is the +oldest existing settlement by white men in the New World, having been +founded in 1494 by Bartholomew Columbus. It contains to-day a little +less than seven thousand inhabitants.</p> + +<p>We gave Cape Maysi a wide berth, as a dangerous reef makes out from +the land, eastward, for a mile or more. The fixed light at this point +is a hundred and thirty feet above sea level, and is visible nearly +twenty miles off shore.</p> + +<p>We were running through the Windward Passage, as it was called by the +early navigators, and whence one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its +way northward. The Gulf Stream! Who can explain the mystery of its +motive power; what keeps its tepid waters in a course of thousands of +miles from mingling with the rest of the sea; whence does it come? The +accepted theories are familiar enough, but we do not believe them. +Maury says the Gulf of Mexico is its fountain, and its mouth is the +Arctic Sea. The maps make the eastern shore of Cuba terminate as +sharply as a needle's point, but it proved to be very blunt in +reality, as it forms the gateway to the Caribbean Sea, where the +irregular coast line runs due north and south for the distance of many +leagues. It is a low, rocky shore for the most part, but rises +gradually as it recedes inland, until it assumes the form of hills so +lofty as to merit the designation of mountains.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +There was on board of our ship an intelligent resident of Santiago, +who was enthusiastic in his description of the plains and valleys +lying beyond the hills which stood so prominently on the coast,—hills +probably older than any tongue in which we could describe them. The +Scriptural Garden of Eden has absolutely been placed here by +supposition on the part of traveled people. The temperature is simply +perfect, if we are to believe our informant; the vegetation is of a +primitive delicacy and beauty unequaled elsewhere; the fruits are +fabulously abundant and of the most perfect flavor; the water bubbles +forth from springs of crystal purity, and the flora is so lovely as to +inspire the most indifferent beholder with delight. "It is called the +Garden of Cuba," said the American Consul of Cienfuegos, "but many go +further, and declare it to be the location of the original Paradise." +Certain it is that the few Americans who have sought this so highly +praised region, though compelled to deny themselves the ordinary +comforts to be found in more accessible resorts, have admitted with +emphasis that nature, pure and undefiled, was here to be enjoyed in +unstinted measure.</p> + +<p>The hills bordering the shore and extending some distance inland +contain much undeveloped mineral wealth, such as iron, silver, and +gold. A mine of the former product is now being profitably worked by +an American company, and the ore regularly shipped to Pennsylvania for +smelting. This ore has special properties which render it more than +usually valuable, and it is even claimed to be the best iron mine in +the world. There is a strangely solitary and inhospitable appearance +about this portion of the island, devoid as it is of all human +habitations, and fringed either with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>long reaches of lonely +snow-white beach or rugged brown rocks. The volcanic appearance of the +land is significant of former upheavals, and this immediate region is +still occasionally troubled with geological chills and fever.</p> + +<p>The nights of early March in this latitude were exceedingly beautiful, +and solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. The full +moon looked down upon and was reflected by waters of perfect +smoothness. River navigation could not have been more quiet than were +these nights on the blue Caribbean Sea. The air was as mild as June in +New England, while at night the Southern Cross and the North Star +blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we steered westward after +doubling the cape, both of these heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, +the constellation on our port side, and the North Star on the +starboard. Each day, at the noon hour, the passengers were interested +in watching the officers of the ship while they were "taking the sun," +to determine the latitude and longitude. Shall we put the process into +simple form for the information of the uninitiated? When the sun +reaches the meridian, or culminating point of ascension, the exact +moment is indicated by the instrument known as a quadrant, adjusted to +the eye of the observer. The figures marked on the quadrant give the +latitude of the ship at the moment of meridian. The ship's time is +then made to correspond, that is to say, it must indicate 12 o'clock, +M., after which it is compared with the chronometer's Greenwich time, +and the difference enables the observer to determine the longitude. As +fifteen miles are allowed to the minute, there will be nine hundred +miles to the hour. The importance of absolute correctness +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +in the chronometer will at once be realized, since, were it only three +minutes out of the way, it would render the calculation as to +longitude wrong by nearly fifty miles, which might be, and doubtless +often has been, the cause of wrecking a ship upon rocks laid down upon +the charts, but supposed to be far away. With the chronometer and the +quadrant observation correctly ascertained, the sailing-master can +prick off his exact situation on the chart. So long as the weather +will permit a clear view of the sun at noon, the ship's precise +location on the wide waste of waters can be known; but when continuous +cloudy weather prevails, the ship's course is calculated by what is +called dead reckoning, depending upon the speed and distance run as +indicated by the log, which is cast hourly under such circumstances, +and becomes the main factor in calculating the position of the ship. +Of course the result cannot be very accurate, but is a dernier +ressort. When land is in sight no observation is necessary, as the +bearing of the ship is then unmistakably defined.</p> + +<p>The sea was like molten sapphire as we glided swiftly along the +southern coast of Cuba, watching the gracefully undulating shore. The +mountains rose higher and higher, until they culminated in the lofty +peak of Pico Turquino (blue mountain), over ten thousand feet high, as +lately ascertained by actual measurement. There are coves and bays +along this coast where oysters <i>do</i> grow upon trees, ridiculous as the +assertion first strikes the ear. The mangrove-trees extend their roots +from the shore into the sea, to which the oysters affix themselves, +growing and thriving until plucked by the fishermen. They are small +and of an inferior species compared with those <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>of our own coast, but +are freely eaten in the island. Near the shore hereabouts are many +islets containing from three to five square miles, some of which are +quite barren, while others are delicious gardens, full of tropical +fruit trees, flowers, and odoriferous plants, where Paul and Virginia +might have felt quite at home, wandering hand in hand.</p> + +<p>Soon after passing the remarkably sheltered port of Guantanamo, which +was for nearly a century the most notorious piratical rendezvous in +the West Indies, the famous castle of Santiago is seen. It is known as +Moro Castle, but it antedates the more familiar Moro of Havana by a +full century. This antique, yellow, Moorish-looking stronghold—which +modern gunnery would destroy in about eight minutes—is picturesque to +the last degree, with its crumbling, honeycombed battlements, and +queer little flanking turrets, grated windows, and shadowy towers. It +is built upon the face of a lofty dun-colored rock, upon whose +precipitous side the fortification is terraced. It stands just at the +entrance of the narrow channel leading to the city, so that in passing +in one can easily exchange oral greetings with the sentry on the outer +battlement. What strikingly artistic pictures the light and shade +together formed with those time-stained walls, as we steamed slowly by +them! On the ocean side, directly under the castle, the sea has worn a +gaping cave, so deep that it has not been explored within the memory +of the people living in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty entrance +is in form as perfect an arch as could be drawn by the pencil of a +skillful architect. As is usual with such formations all over the +world, there is a romantic legend concerning the cave related as +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +connected with the olden time, and there is also a prevailing +superstition, that no one attempting to explore it will live to +return.</p> + +<p>In passing up the channel two or three little forts of queer +construction are seen, supplementing the larger one, placed upon +jutting headlands. The Moro of Santiago is now used as a prison for +political offenders; its days of defensive importance ended with the +period of the buccaneers, against whose crude means of warfare it was +an ample protection. As we steamed past it that sunny afternoon, +stimulated by the novelty of everything about us, a crowd of pallid, +sorrowful faces appeared at the grated windows, watching us +listlessly. Two days later five of them, who were condemned patriots, +were led out upon those ramparts and shot, their bodies falling into +the sea, and eight were sent to the penal settlement of Ceuta. Spain +extends no mercy to those who dare to raise their hands or voices in +favor of freedom; her political existence is sustained only in an +atmosphere of oppression and cruelty. Every page of her history is a +tableau of bloodshed and torture. The narrow winding channel which +leads from the open sea to the harbor passes through low hills and +broad meadows covered with rank verdure, cocoanut groves, and little +fishing hamlets. Thrifty laurels, palms with their graceful plumes of +foliage, and intensely green bananas line the way, with here and there +upon the banks a pleasant country house in the midst of a pretty +garden of flowering shrubs. So close is the shore all the while that +one seems to be navigating upon the land, gliding among trees and over +greensward rather than on blue water. Presently we pass a sharp angle +of the hills into a broad, sheltered bay, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>and before us lies the +quaint, rambling old city of Santiago de Cuba, built upon a hillside, +like Tangier in Africa, and nearly as Oriental as that capital of +Morocco. The first most conspicuous objects to meet the eye are the +twin towers of the ancient cathedral which have withstood so many +earthquakes. The weather-beaten old quartermaster on our forecastle +applies the match to his brass twelve-pounder, awaking a whole +broadside of echoes among the mountains, the big chain rushes swiftly +through the hawse-hole, and the ship swings at her anchor in the +middle of the picturesque bay.</p> + +<p>A boat was promptly secured with which to land at this ancient city, +founded by Velasquez. From the moment one touches the shore a sense of +being in a foreign land forces itself upon the new-comer. The +half-unintelligible language, the people, the architecture, the +manners, the vegetation, even the very atmosphere and the intensity of +the sunshine, are novel and attractive. It is easy to convey our +partial impressions of a new place, however unique it may be, but not +our inward sensations. The former are tangible, as it were, and may be +depicted; the latter are like atmospheric air, which cannot be seen, +but is felt. The many-colored, one-story houses of Santiago are +Moorish in architecture, ranged in narrow streets, which cross each +other at right angles with considerable regularity, but with roadways +in an almost impassable condition, lined with sidewalks of ten or +fifteen inches in width. These thoroughfares were once paved with +cobblestones, but are now characterized by dirt and neglect, a stream +of offensive water constantly percolating through them, in which +little naked children are at play. No wonder that the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>city is +annually decimated by yellow fever; the surprise is that it does not +prevail there every month in the year. The boys and girls of the lower +classes, white and black, are not thought to require clothing until +they are about nine years of age. A few negresses were observed +sitting on the ground, at the corners of the streets, beside their +baskets containing sweet cakes, mouldy biscuits, bananas, and +grape-fruit, the uninviting appearance of which seemed to indicate +that they were in the last stage of collapse. Was it possible any one +could eat such stuff? As we passed and repassed these patient waiters, +certainly no purchasers appeared. How the forty-five thousand +inhabitants manage to achieve a living it would be difficult to +imagine, for the town seemed to be as dead and void of all activity as +Cordova, in far-off Spain, the sleepiest city in all Europe. Santiago +has not a single bookstore within its limits. No other place in +Christendom, with so numerous a population, could exist, outside of +Spain, without some literary resort. There are here three or four +spacious two-story club-houses, with some pretension to neatness and +social accommodations; but then no Cuban town of any size would be +complete without these anti-domestic institutions, where the male +population may congregate for evening entertainment. The interior +arrangements of these club-houses were entirely exposed to view, as we +passed by the iron-grated windows, devoid of curtains, blinds, or +screens of any sort, and extending from ceiling to floor.</p> + +<p>Santiago dates back to the year of our Lord 1514, making it the oldest +city in the New World, next to San Domingo, and it will be remembered +as the place whence Cortez sailed, in 1519, to invade Mexico. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +Here also has been the seat of modern rebellion against the arbitrary and +bitterly oppressive rule of the home government. The city is situated +six hundred miles southeast of Havana, and, after Matanzas, comes next +to it in commercial importance, its exports reaching the handsome +annual aggregate of eight millions of dollars. It is the terminus of +two lines of railways, which pass through the sugar districts, and +afford transportation for this great staple. Three leagues inland, +among the mountains, are situated the famous Cobre copper mines, said +to be of superior richness, and whence, in the days of their active +working, four million dollars' worth of the ore has been exported in +one year. This was the amount shipped in 1841, and so late as 1867 six +thousand tons were exported in ten months. Not content with realizing +a very large income from the mines by way of taxes upon the product, +the Spanish government increased these excise charges to such an +extent as to absorb the entire profits of the works and kill the +enterprise, so that the rich ores of Cobre now rest undisturbed in the +earth. It seems there is an Indian village near the copper mines, +whose people are represented to be the only living descendants of the +aborigines,—the Caribs whom Columbus found here on first landing. +Careful inquiry, however, led us seriously to doubt the authenticity +of the story. Probably this people are peculiar in their language, and +isolation may have caused them to differ in some respects from the +inhabitants of the valley and plains, but four centuries must have +destroyed every trace of the early inhabitants of Cuba. Having been +from the very outset enslaved and brutally treated by the Spaniards, +it is believed that as early as the year of our Lord 1700 they had +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +utterly disappeared, and some historians say no trace even was to be +found of the native race one century after the settlement of the +island by Europeans.</p> + +<p>The head of the Church of Rome in Cuba is located here, it being an +archbishop's see; and the elaborate ceremonials which occasionally +take place attract people from the most distant cities of the island. +We chanced to be present when the bishop was passing into the +cathedral, clothed in full canonicals and accompanied by church +dignitaries bearing a canopy above his head. Observing our little +party as strangers, though in the midst of a stately ceremony, the +bishop graciously made us a sign of recognition. The cathedral of +Santiago is the largest in Cuba, but extremely simple in its interior +arrangements; and so, indeed, are all the churches on the island. As +to the exterior, the façade resembles the cathedral of Havana, being +of the same porous stone, which always presents a crumbled and mottled +surface. The inside decorations are childish and fanciful, consisting +mostly of artificial flowers of colored paper, crudely formed by +inexperienced hands into stars, wreaths, and crosses. One innovation +was noticed in this church: a saint on the right of the altar was +mounted upon a wooden horse, with spear in rest à la militaire, +forming a most incongruous figure. In the church of Matanzas, visited +a week or two later, the effigy of our Saviour was observed to be half +dressed in female attire, a glaring absurdity which the author has +once before seen in the Spanish convent-church of Burgos. In the +Matanzas church alluded to, boys and girls of nine and ten years were +seen at the confessional. Could absurdity be carried to a greater +height? These with negro women form nearly all the audiences to be met +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +with in the Cuban churches, unless upon festal occasions. The men +manifest their indifference by their absence, and white women are +scarcely represented. Besides the cathedral, Santiago has three or +four other old churches, small and dilapidated, within whose sombre +walls one seems to have stepped back into the fifteenth century. Upon +strolling accidentally into one of these we felt a chill suffuse the +whole system, like that realized on descending into a dark, undrained +cellar.</p> + +<p>The multiplicity and gaudiness of the drinking-saloons and bar-rooms +were particularly noticeable in passing along the principal streets, +and all were doing a thriving business, judging from appearances. The +Cubans drink lightly, but they drink often, and are especially +addicted to gin, which is dealt out to them at an extraordinarily low +price. It appears that people can consume a much larger quantity of +spirituous liquors here without becoming intoxicated than they can do +at the North. It is very rare to see a person overcome by this +indulgence in Cuba, and yet, as was afterwards observed in Cienfuegos, +Matanzas, and Havana, the common people begin the day with a very +liberal dram, and follow it up with frequent libations until +bed-time,—tippling at every convenient opportunity. A few of the +better class of private houses were constructed with courts in the +centre, where flowers and tropical fruits were growing luxuriantly. +These dwellings were confined to no special quarter of the town, but +were as often found next to a commercial warehouse or a negro shanty +as elsewhere. The dogs, horses, and Chinese coolies were all in +wretched condition. One might count the ribs of the first two a long +way off, while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>the latter were ragged, lame, half-starved, and many +of them blind. Animals are the recipients of the severest sort of +usage both in Cuba and Spain. Few vehicles were to be seen, as +merchandise is mostly transported on the backs of mules and ponies, +and these animals are seldom shod.</p> + +<p>The town is lighted with gas, or rather it was so illuminated a few +weeks since; but it was quietly whispered about that the corporation +had failed to pay for this service last year, and that the monopoly +itself was on the verge of bankruptcy, like nearly everything else of +a business character in Cuba. The gaslights certainly appeared pale +and sickly enough, as though only half confirmed in the purpose of +giving any light at all, and were prematurely extinguished in many of +the streets. In the shops, whose fronts were all open, like those of +Canton and Yokohama, the clerks were to be seen in their shirt +sleeves, guiltless of vests or collars, coquetting over calicoes and +gaudy-colored merinos with mulatto girls decked in cheap jewelry, and +with negresses wearing enormous hoop-earrings. At the approach of +evening the bar-rooms and saloons, with a liberal display of +looking-glasses, bottles of colored liquors, gin, and glitter, were +dazzling to behold. The marble tables were crowded with domino and +card players, each sipping at intervals his favorite tipple. The +sidewalks are so narrow that the pedestrian naturally seeks the middle +of the street as a pathway, and the half a dozen victorias and four +volantes which form the means of transportation in Santiago, and which +are constantly wandering about in search of a job, manage to meet or +to overtake one perpetually; causing first a right oblique, then a +left oblique, movement, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>with such regularity as to amount to an +endless zig-zag. We did not exactly appreciate the humor of this +annoyance, but perhaps the drivers did. After climbing and descending +these narrow, dirty streets by daylight and by gaslight, and watching +the local characteristics for a few hours, one is only too happy to +take a boat back to the ship, and leave all behind.</p> + +<p>A desire for a cold bath and a good swim is natural in this climate +after sunset, but beware of indulging this inclination in the waters +of Santiago. Under that smooth, inviting surface, glistening beneath +the rays of a full moon, lurk myriads of sharks. They are large, +hungry, man-eating creatures, the tigers of the ocean, and the dread +of all local boatmen here. To fall overboard in these waters, however +good a swimmer one may be, is simply to be devoured. At Singapore, +Sumatra, or Batavia, a Malay will for a consideration dive into the +waters of the Malacca Straits, armed with a long, sharp knife, boldly +attack a shark, and rip open his bowels at the moment when he turns on +his side to give the deadly bite. But on that coast this dreaded fish +appears singly; it is rare to see two of them together; while Santiago +harbor seems to swarm with them, the dark dorsal fin of the +threatening creatures just parting the surface of the sea, and +betraying their presence. Lying at anchor between our ship and the +shore was a trig Spanish corvette,—an American-built vessel, by the +way, though belonging to the navy of Spain. It was curious at times to +watch her crew being drilled in various martial manœuvres. While an +officer was exercising the men at furling topsails, a few days before +our arrival, a foretopman fell from aloft into <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>the sea. Under +ordinary circumstances and in most waters, the man could easily have +been saved, but not so in this instance. He did not even rise to the +surface. A struggle for portions of his body between half a dozen +ravenous sharks was observed alongside the corvette, and all was +quickly over. The foretopman had been torn limb from limb and +instantly devoured.</p> + +<p>The over-stimulated brain felt no inclination for sleep on this first +night in the harbor, the situation was so novel, and the night itself +one to suggest poetic thoughts. The moon was creeping slowly across +the blue vault, like a great phantom mingling with the lambent purity +of the stars. We sat silently watching the heavens, the water, and the +shore; saw the lights go out one after another among the clustering +dwellings, and the street gas-burners shut off here and there, until +by and by the drowsy town was wrapped in almost perfect darkness. Only +the ripple of the sea alongside the ship broke the silence, or the +sudden splash of some large fish, leaping out of and falling back into +the water. It seemed as though no sky was ever before of such +marvelous blue depth, no water so full of mystery, no shore so clad in +magic verdure, and no night ever of such resplendent clearness. The +landing-steps and grating had been rigged out from a broad porthole on +the spar deck, where a quartermaster was awaiting the return of the +purser and a party of gentlemen who were making late, or rather early, +hours on shore; for it was nearly two o'clock in the morning, and the +weary seaman, who had sat down at his post on the grating, was snoring +like a wheezy trombone. The measured tread fore and aft of the second +officer, who kept the anchor <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>watch, was the only evidence of +wakefulness that disturbed our lonely mood. A similar night scene was +vividly called to mind as experienced in Typhoon Bay, below Hong Kong, +a few years since.</p> + +<p>In the harbor, next morning, a sunken wreck was pointed out to us, +which was partially visible at low tide, not far from the shore. Only +the ribs and stanchions are still held together by the stout keel +timbers and lower sheathing. This wreck has lain there unheeded for +years, yet what a story these old timbers might tell, had they only a +tongue with which to give voice to their experience!—literally the +experience of ages. We refer to the remains of the old St. Paul, one +of the ships of the great Spanish Armada that Philip II. sent to +England in 1588, being one of the very few of that famous flotilla +that escaped destruction at the time. What a historical memento is the +old wreck! After a checkered career, in which this ancient craft had +breasted the waves of innumerable seas and withstood the storms of +nearly three centuries, she was burned to the water's edge here in the +harbor of Santiago a few years since, and sunk, where her remains now +lie, covered with slime and barnacles,—a striking emblem of the +nation whose flag she once proudly bore. During the last years of her +career afloat she was used for transporting troops from Europe, and as +a Spanish guard-ship in these seas by the local government. It is +doubtful if it is generally known that this relic of the Spanish +Armada is in existence. Curio-hunters, once put upon the scent, will +probably soon reduce these ancient timbers to chips, and a crop of +canes and snuff-boxes, more or less hideous and more or less +counterfeit, will ensue.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +Here we got our first experience of the present currency,—the +valueless circulating medium of Cuba. When one has occasion to visit +the island it is best to take American funds, either in bank-bills or +gold, sufficient to meet all ordinary expenses. Our bank-bills and our +gold are both at a premium. This will also save all necessity for +drawing on home through any local bankers, who have a way of charging +for the accommodation quite after the style of everything Spanish. The +hotel-keepers will require their pay on the basis of Spanish gold, but +will cheerfully allow a premium of six per cent. on American gold or +American bank-bills. As to the banks in Cuba, all are shaky, so to +speak; several have lately failed, and the others might as well do so. +It is not long since the president of the Havana Savings Bank placed a +pistol at his temple and blew his brains out. Mercantile credit may be +said to be dead, and business nearly at a standstill. Commercial +honesty is hardly to be expected from a bankrupt community, where the +people seem only to be engaged in the sale and purchase of lottery +tickets, a habit participated in by all classes.</p> + +<p>What little gold and silver coin there is found in circulation is +mutilated; every piece of money, large and small, has been subjected +to the ingenious punch, and thus has lost a portion of its intrinsic +value. American gold and silver, not having been thus clipped, justly +commands a six per cent. premium.</p> + +<p>The circulating medium upon the island is paper scrip, precisely +similar to that used in this country before the resumption of specie +payment. This scrip is dirty beyond endurance, and one absolutely +hesitates to take it in making change.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +When our currency became soiled and torn we could exchange it for new, +but there is no such facility in Cuba. One dollar of our money will +purchase $2.45 of this scrip. It passes current, and really seems to +answer the necessities of trade, but even the Cubans are not deceived +by it. They know that it is really worthless, being based upon +nothing, and issued indiscriminately by a bankrupt government. The +paper-mill grinds it out in five, ten, twenty, and fifty cent pieces +as fast as it can be put into circulation, while no one knows how much +has been issued. But one thing is known; namely, that every authorized +issue of a given sum has been enormously exceeded in amount.</p> + +<p>Within about five years, or less, an issue of bank-bills and of this +small currency was entrusted to an establishment in the United States, +when fourteen millions of dollars were printed in <i>addition</i> to the +amount authorized! All were duly receipted for and signed by corrupt +Spanish officials, who coolly divided these millions among themselves! +The Captain-General of Cuba during whose administration this financial +stroke was accomplished came to the island a poor man, and returned to +Spain in two years possessed of three million dollars!</p> + +<p>There is no more beautiful or safe harbor in the world than that of +Santiago de Cuba, commercially speaking, as it is completely +land-locked and protected on all sides from storms; but for the same +reason it is as close and hot an anchorage as can be found in the +tropics. An intelligent resident gave us 80° Fahrenheit as the average +temperature of the year, though the thermometer showed a more +ambitious figure during our brief stay. There are but two seasons, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +the wet and the dry, the latter extending from September to May. The +city might have an excellent water supply if there were sufficient +enterprise among the citizens to cause it to be conducted by pipes +from the springs in the neighboring hills. It is now wretchedly +deficient in this respect, causing both suffering and ill health in a +climate especially demanding this prime necessity of life.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Doubling Cape Cruz. — Trinidad. — Cienfuegos. — The Plaza. +— Beggars. — Visit to a Sugar Plantation. — Something +about Sugar. — An Original Character. — A Tropical Fruit +Garden. — Cuban Hospitality. — The Banana. — Lottery +Tickets. — Chinese Coolies. — Blindness in Cuba. — Birds +and Poultry. — The Cock-Pit. — Negro Slavery, To-Day. — +Spanish Slaveholders. — A Slave Mutiny. — A Pleasant +Journey across the Island. — Pictures of the Interior. — +Scenery about Matanzas. — The Tropics and the North contrasted. +</div> + + +<p>To reach Cienfuegos, our next objective point, one takes water +conveyance, the common roads in this district being, if possible, a +degree worse than elsewhere. It is therefore necessary to double Cape +Cruz, and perform a coasting voyage along the southern shore of the +island of about four hundred miles. This is really delightful sailing +in any but the hurricane months; that is, between the middle of August +and the middle of October. It would seem that this should be quite a +commercial thoroughfare, but it is surprising how seldom a +sailing-vessel is seen on the voyage, and it is still more rare to +meet a steamship. Our passage along the coast was delightful: the +undulating hills, vales, and plains seemed to be quietly gliding past +us of their own volition; the tremor of the ship did not suggest +motion of the hull, but a sense of delight at the moving panorama so +clearly depicted. No extensive range of waters in either hemisphere is +so proverbially smooth as the Caribbean Sea, during eight months of +the year, but a stout hull and good seamanship are demanded during the +remaining four, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>especially if coming from the northward over the +Bahama Banks and through the Windward Passage, as described in these +chapters.</p> + +<p>The city of Trinidad, perched upon a hillside, is passed at the +distance of a few miles, being pleasantly situated more than a league +from the coast. The town of Casilda is its commercial port. This +arrangement was adopted in the early days as a partial protection +against the frequent inroads of the buccaneers, who ceased to be +formidable when separated from their ships. Trinidad was once the +centre of the prosperous coffee trade of Cuba, but is now, and has +been for many years, commercially wrecked. It is very beautifully +located, with Mount Vijia for its background, in what is declared to +be the healthiest district upon the island. But it is an ancient city, +comparatively deserted, its date being nearly contemporary with that +of Santiago. Cienfuegos, its successful business rival, is on the +contrary quite modern, exhibiting many features of thrift and +activity, and is counted the third commercial city of Cuba. Like +Cardenas, it is called an American capital. It has some twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, a large proportion of whom speak English, nine +tenths of its commerce being with the United States. In this immediate +neighborhood Columbus, on his second voyage, saw with astonishment the +mysterious king who spoke to his subjects only by signs, and that +group of men who wore long white tunics like the monks of mercy, while +the rest of the people were entirely naked. The town is low and level, +occupying a broad plane. The streets are of fair width, crossing each +other at right angles, and are kept neat and clean. The harbor is an +excellent and spacious one, admitting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> of vessels being moored at the +wharves, a commercial convenience unknown at Santiago, Matanzas, or +Havana. The navies of all the world might rendezvous here and not +crowd each other. Three rivers, the Canudo, Saludo, and Danuyi, empty +into the bay, and each is navigable for a considerable distance +inland, a matter of great importance in a country so devoid of good +roads. The parti-colored houses are of the usual Cuban type, mostly of +one story, built with a patio or open courtyard in the centre, well +filled with flowering plants, among which were observed the attractive +coral-tree, which resembles a baby palm, and the universal banana.</p> + +<p>The Plaza of Cienfuegos forms a large, well-arranged square, where an +out-door military concert is given twice a week, a universal practice +in all Cuban cities. It is laid out with excellent taste, its broad +paths nicely paved, and the whole lighted at night with numerous +ornamental gas-lamps. The vegetation is both attractive and +characteristic, consisting of palms, laurels, and flowering shrubs, +mingled with which are some exotics from the North, which droop with a +homesick aspect. Plants, like human beings, will pine for their native +atmosphere. If it be more rigorous and less genial at the North, still +there is a bracing, tonic effect, imparting life and strength, which +is wanting in the low latitudes. On one side of this fine square is +the government house and barracks, opposite to which is an open-air +theatre, and in front is the cathedral with any number of discordant +bells. The little English sparrow seems to be ubiquitous, and as +pugnacious here as on Boston Common, or the Central Park of New York. +Boyish games are very similar the world over: young Cuba was playing +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +marbles after the orthodox fashion, knuckle-down. It was very pitiful +to behold the army of beggars in so small a city, but begging is +synonymous with the Spanish name, both in her European and colonial +possessions. Here the maimed, halt, and blind meet one at every turn. +Saturday is the harvest day for beggars in the Cuban cities, on which +occasion they go about by scores from door to door, carrying a large +canvas bag. Each family and shop is supplied with a quantity of small +rolls of bread, specially baked for the purpose, and one of which is +nearly always given to the applicant on that day, so the mendicant's +bag becomes full of rolls. These, mixed with vegetables, bits of fish, +and sometimes meat and bones when they can be procured, are boiled +into a soup, thus keeping soul and body together in the poor creatures +during the week.</p> + +<p>Cienfuegos is situated in the midst of a sugar-producing district, +where soil and climate are both favorable, and over twenty large +plantations are to be seen within a radius of two or three leagues. +The export from them, as we were informed by the courteous editor of +"La Opinion," a local paper, aggregates thirty thousand hogsheads +annually. The visitor should not fail to make an excursion to some +representative plantation, where it is impossible not to be much +interested and practically informed. One of these sugar estates, +situated less than two leagues from the town, was found to be +furnished with a complete outfit of the most modern machinery, which +had cost the proprietor a quarter of a million dollars. It was working +with the usual favorable results, though at the present price of sugar +no profit can accrue to the planter. The plantation presented a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> busy +scene. During the grinding season the machinery is run night and day, +but is obliged to lie idle for eight months out of the year.</p> + +<p>In the uncultivated fields through which we passed when driving out to +the sugar estate, the prickly pear grew close to the ground in great +luxuriance, as it is seen on our Western prairies. Its thick leaves, +so green as to be dense with color, impart the effect of greensward at +a short distance. On close inspection it was seen to be the star +cactus, which like the Northern thistle kills all other vegetation +within its reach. Here and there the wild ipecacuanha with its bright +red blossom was observed, but the fields, except those devoted to the +cane, were very barren near Cienfuegos.</p> + +<p>Sugar-cane is cultivated like Indian corn, which it also resembles in +appearance. It is first planted in rows, not in hills, and must be +hoed and weeded until it gets high enough to shade its roots. Then it +may be left to itself until it reaches maturity. This refers to the +first laying out of a plantation, which will afterwards continue +fruitful for years by very simple processes of renewal. When +thoroughly ripe the cane is of a light golden yellow, streaked here +and there with red. The top is dark green, with long narrow leaves +depending,—very much like those of the corn stalk,—from the centre +of which shoots upwards a silvery stem a couple of feet in height, and +from its tip grows a white fringed plume, of a delicate lilac hue. The +effect of a large field at its maturity, lying under a torrid sun and +gently yielding to the breeze, is very fine, a picture to live in the +memory ever after. In the competition between the products of +beet-root sugar and that from sugar-cane,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> the former controls the +market, because it can be produced at a cheaper rate, besides which +its production is stimulated by nearly all of the European states +through the means of liberal subsidies both to the farmer and to the +manufacturer. Beet sugar, however, does not possess so high a +percentage of true saccharine matter as does the product of the cane, +the latter seeming to be nature's most direct mode of supplying us +with the article. The Cuban planters have one advantage over all other +sugar-cane producing countries, in the great and inexhaustible +fertility of the soil of the island. For instance: one to two +hogsheads of sugar to the acre is considered a good yield in Jamaica, +but in Cuba three hogsheads is the average. Fertilizing of any sort is +rarely employed in the cane-fields, while in beet farming it is the +principal agent of success.</p> + +<p>Though the modern machinery, as lately adopted on the plantations, is +very expensive, still the result achieved by it is so much superior to +that of the old methods of manufacture that the small planters are +being driven from the market. Slave labor cannot compete with +machinery. The low price of sugar renders economy imperative in all +branches of the business, in order to leave a margin for profit. A +planter informed the author that he should spread all of his molasses +upon the cane-fields this year as a fertilizer, rather than send it to +a distant market and receive only what it cost. He further said that +thousands of acres of sugar-cane would be allowed to rot in the fields +this season, as it would cost more to cut, grind, pack, and send it to +market than could be realized for the manufactured article. Had the +price of sugar remained this year at a figure which would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> afford the +planters a fair profit, it might have been the means of tiding over +the chasm of bankruptcy which has long stared them in the face, and +upon the brink of which they now stand. But with a more than average +crop, both as to quantity and quality, whether to gather it or not is +a problem. Under these circumstances it is difficult to say what is to +become, financially, of the people of Cuba. Sugar is their great +staple, but all business has been equally depressed upon the island, +under the bane of civil wars, extortionate taxation, and oppressive +rule.</p> + +<p>If you visit Cienfuegos you will take rooms at the Hotel Union, as +being the least objectionable of the two public houses which the city +contains, and there you will make the acquaintance of Jane, who is an +institution in herself. Indeed, she will doubtless board your ship +when it first arrives, so as to enlighten you concerning the +excellences of the Union over its rival establishment, which will also +be sure to be represented. Jane is interpreter and general factotum of +that delectable posada, the Union, and being the only one in the house +who speaks either French or English, she becomes an important factor +in your calculations. Jane's nationality is a pleasing mystery, but +she may be classed as a Portuguese quadroon. Venus did not preside at +her birth, but, by means of the puff-ball and egg-shell powder, she +strives to harmonize her mottled features. Being interpreter, +waitress, hotel-runner, and chambermaid, she is no idler, and fully +earns the quarter eagle you naturally hand her at leave-taking. In +visiting the neighboring sugar plantation Jane acts as your guide, on +which occasion her independence will be sure to challenge admiration. +She salutes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> slave or master with equal familiarity, conducts you +through each process of the elaborate works, from the engine to the +crushing mill, and so on, until you reach the centrifugal machine, +where the glistening crystals of pure sugar fall into an open +receptacle ready for packing and shipment. She takes you into the +slave-quarters among the pickaninnies, hens, pigs, and pigeons, +looking on blandly and chewing huge pieces of cane while you +distribute the bright ten cent pieces with which you filled your +pocket at starting. If Jane slyly pinches a papoose and causes it to +yell, it is only for fun; she means no harm, though the dusky mite +gets smartly slapped by its mother for misbehaving. The cabin floor of +bare earth is sure to be covered with these little naked, sprawling +objects, like ants. On the way back to town Jane orders the postilion +to drive into the private grounds of a palatial Cuban residence, where +she boldly announces herself and party to the proprietor in good +rolling Spanish. It is the home of Señor N——, a wealthy merchant of +the city. We are received as though we belonged to the royal family. +The hospitable owner speaks English fluently, and answers our thousand +and one questions with tireless courtesy, takes us into his superb +fruit garden (of which more anon), then introduces us to his domestic +quarters, where everything appears refined, faultlessly neat, and +tasteful. If you go to the railroad station, as usual the evening +before departure, in order to secure tickets and get your baggage +labeled,—for the cars start in the morning before daylight,—Jane +will accompany you, riding by your side in the victoria. Excuse her if +she orders the calash thrown back, as she appears bonnetless in a +loud, theatrical costume,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> trimmed with red and yellow, and carrying a +bouquet in her freckled hands. It is her opportunity, and she looks +triumphantly at the street loungers in passing. If you are charged on +your bill a Delmonico price for a mythical lunch to be taken with you +on the journey to Matanzas, and which Jane has forgotten to put up, +pay without wrangling; it saves time and temper.</p> + +<p>The tropical garden which we visited just outside of Cienfuegos +embraced a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty +exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending to +the ground with the weight of its ripening fruit; the alligator pear +was marvelously beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and +color, the passion-flower; the soft delicate foliage of the tamarind +was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, +the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree) +being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time +by a single, pendent, glutinous bud nearly as large as a pineapple. +The date-palm, so suggestive of the far East, and the only one we had +seen in Cuba, was represented by a choice specimen, imported in its +youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform +and graceful shape, full of the green fruit, with here and there a +ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rusty-coated +fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad-spreading trees +depended the grape-fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as +gold, while the orange, lime, and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green +and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every turn, and filled the +garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> its tall, straight +stem and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. Guava, fig, +custard-apple, and bread-fruit trees, all were in bearing. Our +hospitable host plucked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his +chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or +elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, +of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had +turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Gan Eden. Through this +orchard of Hesperides we were accompanied also by the proprietor's two +lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise +in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory +with photographic fidelity.</p> + +<p>Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once +more to examine his beautiful specimens of the banana, which, with its +sister fruit the plantain, forms so important a staple of food in Cuba +and throughout all tropical regions. It seems that the female banana +tree bears more fruit than the male, but not so large. The average +clusters of the former comprise here about one hundred, but the latter +rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct specimens of the +cucumber-shaped product. From the centre of its large broad leaves, +which gather at the top, when it has reached the height of twelve or +fifteen feet there springs forth a large purple bud ten inches long, +shaped like a huge acorn, though more pointed. This cone hangs +suspended from a strong stem, upon which a leaf unfolds, displaying a +cluster of young fruit. As soon as these are large enough to support +the heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf +drops off, and another unfolds, exposing its little brood of fruit; +and so the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> process goes on until six or eight rings of young bananas +are started, forming, as we have said, bunches numbering from seventy +to a hundred. The banana is a herbaceous plant, and after fruiting its +top dies; but it annually sprouts up again fresh from the roots. From +the unripe fruit, dried in the sun, a palatable and nutritious flour +is made.</p> + +<p>No matter where one may be, in town or country, in the east or west +end of the island, Santiago or Havana, the lottery-ticket vender is +there. Men, women, and children are employed to peddle the tickets, +cripples especially being pressed into the service in the hope of +exciting the sympathies of strangers and thus creating purchasers. It +may be said to be about the only prosperous business at present going +on in this thoroughly demoralized island. Half the people seem to +think of nothing else, and talk of dreaming that such and such +combinations of numbers will bring good luck. Some will buy only even +numbers, others believe that the odd ones stand the best chance of +winning; in short, all the gambling fancies are brought to bear upon +these lotteries. Enough small prizes are doled out to the purchasers +of tickets, by the cunning management, to keep hope and expectation +ever alive in their hearts, and to coax out of them their last dollar +in further investments. "If," said a native resident of Matanzas to +us, "these lotteries, all of which are presided over by the officials, +are honestly conducted, they are the one honest thing in which this +government is concerned. Venal in everything else, why should they be +conscientious in this gambling game?" No one believes in the integrity +of the government, but, strange to say, the masses have implicit faith +in the lotteries.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>At one corner of our hotel in Cienfuegos, there sat upon the sidewalk +of the street a blind beggar, a Chinese coolie, whose miserable, +poverty-stricken appearance elicited a daily trifle from the habitués +of the house. Early one morning we discovered this representative of +want and misery purchasing a lottery ticket. They are so divided and +subdivided, it appears, as to come even within the means of the street +beggars! Speaking of blindness, the multiplicity of people thus +afflicted, especially among negroes and coolies, led to the +enumeration of those met with in a single day; the result was +seventeen. On inquiry it was found that inflammation of the eyes is as +common here as in Egypt, and that it runs a rapid and fatal +course,—fatal to the sight after having once attacked a victim, +unless it receives prompt, judicious, and scientific treatment.</p> + +<p>The Chinese coolies, who are encountered in all parts of the island, +but more especially in the cities, are almost invariably decrepit, +poverty-stricken mendicants, and very frequently blind. They are such +as have been through their eight years' contract, and have been +brought to their present condition by ill-treatment, insufficient +food, and the troubles incident to the climate. In the majority of +cases these coolies have been cheated out of the trifling amount of +wages promised to them, for there is no law in Cuba to which they can +appeal. There are laws which will afford the negro justice if resorted +to under certain circumstances, but none for the coolies. There are +some few Chinamen who have survived every exigency, and are now +engaged in keeping small stores or fruit stands, cigar making, and +other light employments, their only hope being to gain money<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> enough +to carry them back to their native land, and to have a few dollars +left to support them after getting there. There are no Chinese +laundries in Cuba; John cannot compete with the black women in this +occupation, for they are natural washers and ironers. John is only a +skillful imitator. He proves most successful in the cigarette and +cigar factories, where his deft fingers can turn out a more uniform +and handsome article than the Cubans themselves. Machinery is fast +doing away with hand-made cigarettes. At the famous establishment of +La Honradez, in Havana, which we visited some weeks later, one machine +was seen in operation which produced ten thousand complete cigarettes +each hour, or a million per day! Still this same establishment +employed some fifty Chinese in order to supply its trade with the +hand-made article, for home consumption. The Cubans prefer to unroll +and readjust a cigarette before lighting it. This cannot be done with +the machine-made article, which completes its product by a pasting +process. The three machines (an American patent) at the Honradez +factory turn out three millions of cigarettes per day, and this is in +addition to those which are hand-made by the Chinese.</p> + +<p>The landlord of the Hotel Union, at Cienfuegos, will give you plenty +of fruit and cheap Cataline wine, but the meat which is served is poor +and consists mostly of birds. Any other which may be set before you +will hardly be found to be a success, but then one does not crave much +substantial food in this climate. There is a small wild pigeon which +forms a considerable source of food in Cuba, and which breeds several +times in a year. They are snared and shot in large numbers for the +table, but do not show any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> signs of being exterminated. Ducks and +water-fowl generally abound, and are depended upon to eke out the +short supply of what we term butcher's meat. Three quarters of the +people never partake of other meat than pigeons, poultry, and wild +ducks. Eggs are little used as food, being reserved for hatching +purposes. All families in the country and many in the cities make a +business of raising poultry, but the product is a bird of small +dimensions, not half the size of our common domestic fowls. They are +very cheap, but they are also very poor. The practice is to keep them +alive until they are required for the table, so that they are killed, +picked, and eaten, all in the same hour, and are in consequence very +tough. As the climate permits of hens hatching every month in the +year, the young are constantly coming forward, and one mother annually +produces several broods; chickens, like tropical fruits, are +perennial.</p> + +<p>Sunday is no more a day of rest in Cienfuegos than it is in other +Roman Catholic countries; indeed, it seemed to be distinguished only +by an increase of revelry, the activity of the billiard saloons, the +noisy persistency of the lottery-ticket venders, the boisterousness of +masquerade processions, and a general public rollicking. The city is +not large enough to support a bull-ring, but cock-pits are to be found +all over the island, and the Sabbath is the chosen day for their +exhibitions. It must be a very small and very poor country town in +Cuba which has not its cock-pit. The inveterate gambling propensities +of the people find vent also at dominoes, cards, checkers, and chess +in the bar-rooms, every marble table being in requisition for the +purpose of the games on Sundays. Having noticed the sparse attendance +at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> cathedral, we remarked to Jane that the church was quite +empty, whereupon she replied with a significant leer, "True, Señor, +but the jail is full." More than once an underlying vein of sarcasm +was observed in the very pertinent remarks of which Jane was so +happily delivered.</p> + +<p>There are comparatively few slaves to be found on the plantations or +elsewhere in the vicinity of Cienfuegos: in fact, slavery is rapidly +disappearing from the island. "Slave labor is more costly than any +other, all things considered," said a sugar planter to us. "I do not +own one to-day, but I have owned and worked six hundred at a time," he +added. "We pay no tax on the laborers we hire, but on slaves we pay a +heavy head-tax annually." An edict has been promulgated by the home +government, which went into force last year, and which frees one slave +in every four annually, so that on January 1, 1888, all will have +become free. In the mean time the commercial value of slaves has so +decreased in view of their near emancipation that they are not +appraised on an average at over fifty or sixty dollars each. The law +has for a period of many years provided that any slave who pays to his +master his appraised value shall at once receive his free papers. Many +purchase their liberty under this law, and then hire themselves to the +same master or to some other, as they may choose,—at low wages, to be +sure, but including food and shelter. Slaves have always been entitled +by law in Cuba to hold individual property independent of their +masters, and there are few smart ones who have not accumulated more or +less pecuniary means during their servitude. They have had no expenses +to meet in the way of supporting themselves. That<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> has devolved upon +their owners, so that whatever money they have realized by the several +ways open to them has been clear profit. Many slaves have anticipated +the period of their legal release from servitude, and more will do so +during the present year. We also heard of planters who, realizing the +inevitable, have manumitted the few slaves whom they still held in +bondage, and hiring them at merely nominal wages, believed they saved +money by the operation.</p> + +<p>It will be seen, therefore, that slavery as an institution here is +virtually at an end. Low wages will prevail, and this is necessary to +enable the planters to compete with the beet sugar producers of +Europe. In truth, it is a question how long they will be able to do so +at any rate of wages. The modern machinery being so generally adopted +by the sugar-cane planters, while remarkably successful, both, as to +the quality and the quantity of the juice it expresses from the cane, +not only is expensive in first cost, but it requires more intelligent +laborers than were found serviceable with the old process. To supply +the places of the constantly diminishing slaves, emigrants, as they +were called, have heretofore been introduced from the Canary Islands; +men willing to contract for a brief period of years, say eight or ten, +as laborers, and at moderate wages. These people have proved to be +good plantation hands, though not so well able to bear the great heat +of the sun as were the negroes; otherwise they were superior to them, +and better in all respects than the Chinese coolies, who as workers on +the plantations have proved to be utter failures. The mortality among +these Mongolians, as we learned from good authority, had reached as +high as sixty-seven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> per cent, within eight years of their date of +landing in Cuba, that being also the period of their term of contract. +None have been introduced into the island for several years. This +coolie importation, like the slave-trade with Africa, was a fraud and +an outrage upon humanity, and never paid any one, even in a mercenary +point of view, except the shipowners who brought the deceived natives +from the coast of China. Slavery in Cuba and slavery in our country +were always quite a different thing, and strange to say the laws of +the Spanish government were far more favorable and humane towards the +victims of enforced labor than were those established in our Southern +States. When the American negro ceased to be a slave, he ceased to +cultivate the soil for his master only to cultivate it for himself. +Not so in the tropics. The Cuban negro, in the first place, is of a +far less intelligent type than the colored people in the States; +secondly, the abundance of natural food productions in the low +latitudes, such as fruit, fish, and vegetables, requires of the negro +only to pluck and to eat; clothing and shelter are scarcely needed, +and virtually cost nothing where one may sleep in the open air without +danger every night in the year; and finally, the negro of the tropics +will not work unless he is compelled to.</p> + +<p>There is a certain class of the Spanish slaveholders who have always +fought against negro emancipation in any form,—fought against +manifest destiny as well as against sound principles, fought indeed +against their own clear interest, so wedded were they to the vile +institution of slavery. Yet to every thinking man on the island, it is +clearly apparent that human slavery in Cuba, as everywhere else, has +proved to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> a disturber of the public peace, and has retarded more +than anything, else the material and moral progress of the entire +people. It is but a short time since that the editor of a Havana +newspaper, the "Revista Economica," was imprisoned in Moro Castle, and +without even the pretense of a trial afterwards banished from the +island, because he dared to point out the fact in print that the +freeing of the slaves would prove a mutual benefit to man and master, +besides being a grand act of humanity. Two years since the slaves on a +large plantation near Guines refused to work on a holiday which had +always heretofore been granted to them; whereupon the soldiery were +called in to suppress what was called a mutiny of the blacks, +resulting in nine negroes being shot dead, and many others put in +chains to be scourged at leisure. Doomed as we have shown slavery to +be, still it dies hard in Cuba.</p> + +<p>In the vicinity of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Trinidad, in the mountain +regions of the eastern district, there are many lawless +people,—banditti, in fact, who make war for plunder both upon native +and foreign travelers, even resorting in some cases to holding +prisoners for ransoms. Several aggravating instances of the latter +character came to our knowledge while we were on the spot. Since these +notes were commenced five of these robbers have been captured, +including the leader of the band to which they belonged, a notorious +outlaw named Clemente Martinez. They were taken by means of a +stratagem, whereby they were decoyed into an ambush, surrounded, and +captured red-handed, as they fought furiously, knowing that they had +no mercy to expect at the hands of the soldiers. It was the civil guard +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +at Rancho Veloz who made this successful raid into the hills, +and every one of the prisoners was summarily shot. Such, off-hand +punishment is dangerous, but in this instance it was no more prompt +than just. It is necessary, therefore, to carry arms for self-defense +upon the roads in some parts of the island, and even the countrymen +wear swords when bringing produce to market. Residents having occasion +to go any distance inland take a well-armed guard with them, to +prevent being molested by the desperate refugees who lurk in the hill +country. Undoubtedly many of these lawless bands are composed of +former revolutionists, who are driven to extremes by want of food and +the necessities of life.</p> + +<p>Our journey was continued from Cienfuegos to Havana, by way of +Matanzas, crossing the island nearly at right angles. The traveler +plunges at once by this route into the midst of luxuriant tropical +nature, where the vegetation is seen to special advantage, +characterized by a great variety of cacti and parasitic growth, +flowering trees and ever graceful palms, besides occasional ceibas of +immense size. Though the landscape, somehow, was sad and melancholy, +it gave rise to bright and interesting thoughts in the observer: +doubtless the landscape, like humanity, has its moods. Vegetation, +unlike mankind, seems here never to grow old, never to falter; crop +succeeds crop, harvest follows harvest; nature is inexhaustible,—it +is an endless cycle of abundance. Miles upon miles of the bright, +golden-green sugar-cane lie in all directions, among which, here and +there, is seen the little cluster of low buildings constituting the +negroes' quarters attached to each plantation, and near by is the tall +white chimney of the sugar-mill,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> emitting its thick volume of +wreathing smoke, like the funnel of a steamboat. A little on one side +stands the planter's house, low and white, surrounded by beautiful +shade trees and clustering groups of flowers. Scores of dusky Africans +give life to the scene, and the sturdy overseer, mounted on his little +Cuban pony, dashes back and forth to keep all hands advantageously at +work. One large gang is busy cutting the tall cane with sharp, +sword-like knives; some are loading the stalks upon ox-carts; some are +driving loads to the mill; some feeding the cane between the great +steel crushers, beneath which pours forth a ceaseless jelly-like +stream, to be conducted by iron pipes to the boilers; men, women, and +children are spreading the crushed refuse to dry in the sun, after +which it will be used for fuel. Coopers are heading up hogsheads full +of the manufactured article, and others are rolling up empty ones to +be filled.</p> + +<p>Some years ago, when the author first visited Cuba, the overseer was +never seen without his long, cutting whip, as well as his sword and +pistols. The latter he wears to-day, but the whip is unseen. The fact +is, the labor on the plantations is now so nearly free labor that +there is little if any downright cruelty exercised as of yore. Or, +rather, we will qualify the remark by saying that there has been a +vast improvement in this respect on the side of humanity. The shadow +of the picture lies in the past. One could not but recall in +imagination the horrors which so long characterized these plantations. +The bloodthirsty spirit of the Spanish slaveholders had free scope +here for centuries, during which time the invaders sacrificed the +entire aboriginal race; and since then millions of Africans have been +slowly murdered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> by overwork, insufficient food, and the lash, simply +to fill the pockets of their rapacious masters with gold. Few native +Cubans are sugar-planters. These estates are almost universally owned +and carried on by Spaniards from the European peninsula, or other +foreigners, including Englishmen and Americans.</p> + +<p>Occasionally, in the trip across the island, we passed through a crude +but picturesque little hamlet having the unmistakable stamp of +antiquity, with low straggling houses built of rude frames, covered at +side and roof with palm bark and leaves; chimneys there were +none,—none even in the cities,—charcoal only being used for cooking +purposes, and which is performed in the open air. About the door of +the long, rambling posada, a dozen or more horses were seen tied to a +long bar, erected for the purpose, but no wheeled vehicles were there. +The roads are only fit for equestrians, and hardly passable even for +them. At rare intervals one gets a glimpse of the volante, now so +generally discarded in the cities, and which suggested Dr. Holmes's +old chaise, prepared to tumble to pieces in all parts at the same +time. The people, the cabins, and the horses, are all stained with the +red dust of the soil, recalling the Western Indians in their war +paint. This pigment, or colored dirt, penetrates and adheres to +everything, filling the cars and decorating the passengers with a +dingy brick color. It was difficult to realize that these +comparatively indifferent places through which we glided so swiftly +were of importance and the permanent abode of any one. When the cars +stop at the small way-stations, they are instantly invaded by +lottery-ticket sellers, boys with tempting fruit, green cocoanuts, +ripe oranges, and bananas,—all cheap for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> cash. And here too is the +guava seller, with neatly sealed cans of the favorite preserve. +Indeed, it seems to rain guava jelly in Cuba. Others offer country +cheese, soft and white, with rolls, while in a shanty beside the road +hot coffee and "blue ruin" are dealt out to thirsty souls by a +ponderous mulatto woman. There are always a plenty of the denizens of +the place, in slovenly dresses and slouched hats, hands in pockets, +and puffing cigarettes, who do the heavy standing-round business. +Stray dogs hang about the car-wheels and track to pick up the crumbs +which passengers throw away from their lunch-baskets. Just over the +wild-pineapple hedge close at hand, half a score of naked negro +children hover round the door of a low cabin; the mother, fat and +shining in her one garment, gazes with arms akimbo at the scene of +which she forms a typical part. The engineer imbibes a penny drink of +thin Cataline wine and hastens back to his machine, which has been +taking water from an elevated cistern beside the track, the bell +rings, the whistle sounds, and we are off to repeat the process and +the picture, six or eight leagues further on. Take our advice and +don't attempt to make a meal at one of these stations. The viands are +wretchedly poor, and the price charged is a swindle.</p> + +<p>As we approach Matanzas the scene undergoes a radical change. +Comfortable habitations are multiplied, passable roads appear winding +gracefully about the country, groves and gardens spring into view, +with small and thrifty farms. Superb specimens of the royal palm begin +to appear in abundance, always suggestive of the Corinthian column. +Scattered over the hills and valleys a few fine cattle are seen +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +cropping the rank verdure. There is no greensward in the tropics, and +hay is never made. The scenery reminds one of Syria and the Nile.</p> + +<p>One sees some vegetable and fruit farms, but sugar raising absorbs +nearly every other interest, the tobacco leaf coming next, now that +coffee is so neglected. The farmer ploughs with the crooked branch of +a tree, having one handle with which to guide the crude machine,—just +such an instrument as is used for the purpose in Egypt to-day, and has +been used there for thousands of years. The cattle are mostly poor, +half-starved creatures,—starved amid a vegetation only too rank and +luxuriant. The dairy receives no attention in Cuba. Butter is seldom +made; the canned article from this country, thin and offensive, is +made to answer the purpose. The climate is too hot to keep butter or +cream without ice, and that is expensive. Human beings, men, women, +and children, look stunted and thin, possessing, however, wonderfully +fine eyes, large, lustrous, and ebony in hue; eyes that alone make +beauty; but the physiognomists have long since learned that eyes of +themselves are no indication of character or moral force.</p> + +<p>The thermometer had stood since early morning at 83°, during the long +ride from Cienfuegos. It was hot and dusty. Notwithstanding the +ceaseless novelty of the scene, one became a little fatigued, a little +weary; but as we approached Matanzas, the refreshing air from off the +Gulf of Mexico suddenly came to our relief, full of a bracing tonic, +and rendering all things tolerable. The sight of the broad harbor, +lying with its flickering surface under the afternoon sun, was +beautiful to behold.</p> + +<p>After all, these tropical regions lack the delicious +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +freshness of the greensward, of new foliage, and the fine fragrance of the rural North; +they need the invigorating sleep of the seasons from which to awake +refreshed and blooming. Where vegetation is growing and decaying at +the same time, there can never be general freshness and greenness; +eternal summer lacks interest; we crave the frost as well as the +sunshine. Compensation follows fast upon the heels of even a Northern +winter. The tropical loveliness of the vegetation in this attractive +land indicates what Cuba should be, but is not.</p> + +<p>Having accompanied the reader across many degrees of latitude, +effecting a landing and reaching the interior of Cuba, let us now pass +to other considerations of this interesting and important island.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +The Great Genoese Pilot. — Discovery of Cuba. — Its Various +Names. — Treatment of the Natives. — Tobacco! — Flora of +the Island. — Strange Idols. — Antiquity. — Habits of the +Aborigines. — Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. — A +Native Entertainment. — Paying Tribute. — Ancient Remains. +— Wrong Impression of Columbus. — First Attempt at +Colonization. — Battle with the Indians. — First Governor +of Cuba. — Founding Cities. — Emigration from Spain. — +Conquest of Mexico. +</div> + +<p>The island of Cuba was discovered by the great Genoese pilot, on the +28th day of October, 1492. The continent of America was not discovered +until six years later,—in 1498. The name of Columbus flashes a bright +ray over the mental darkness of the period in which he lived, for the +world was then but just awakening from the dull sleep of the Middle +Ages. The discovery of printing heralded the new birth of the republic +of letters, and maritime enterprise received a vigorous impulse. The +shores of the Mediterranean, thoroughly explored and developed, had +endowed the Italian States with extraordinary wealth, and built up a +very respectable mercantile marine. The Portuguese mariners were +venturing farther and farther from the peninsula, and traded with many +distant ports on the extended coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>To the west lay what men supposed to be an illimitable ocean, full of +mystery, peril, and death. A vague conception that islands hitherto +unknown might be met afar off on that strange wilderness of waters was +entertained by some minds, but no one thought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> of venturing in search +of them. Columbus alone, regarded merely as a brave and intelligent +seaman and pilot, conceived the idea that the earth was spherical, and +that the East Indies, the great El Dorado of the century, might be +reached by circumnavigating the globe. If we picture to ourselves the +mental condition of the age and the state of science, we shall find no +difficulty in conceiving the scorn and incredulity with which the +theory of Columbus was received. We shall not wonder that he was +regarded as a madman or as a fool; we are not surprised to remember +that he encountered repulse upon repulse as he journeyed wearily from +court to court, and pleaded in vain to the sovereigns of Europe for +aid to prosecute his great design. The marvel is that when door after +door was closed against him, when all ears were deaf to his earnest +importunities, when day by day the opposition to his views increased, +when, weary and footsore, he was forced to beg a bit of bread and a +cup of water for his fainting and famishing boy at the door of a +Spanish convent, his reason did not give way, and his great heart did +not break with disappointment.</p> + +<p>But he felt himself to be the instrument of a higher power, and his +soul was then as firm and steadfast as when, launched in his frail +caravél upon the ocean, he pursued day after day and night after +night, amidst a murmuring, discontented, and even mutinous crew, his +westward path across the trackless waters. No doubt he believed +himself to be inspired, or at least specially prompted from above. +This was shown by his tenacious observance of all ceremonies of the +Church, in his unaffected piety, and in that lofty and solemn +enthusiasm which was a characteristic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> of his whole life. This must +have been the secret in no small degree of the power he exerted so +successfully over his semi-barbarous followers, who were more affected +by awe than by fear. It was the devout and lofty aspect of their +commander which controlled his sailors under circumstances so trying. +We can conceive of his previous sorrows, but what imagination can form +an adequate conception of his hopefulness and gratitude when the +tokens of the neighborhood of land first greeted his senses? What +rapture must have been his when the keel of his barque first grounded +on the shore of San Salvador, and he planted the royal standard in the +soil, as the Viceroy and High-Admiral of Spain in the New World! No +matter what chanced thereafter, a king's favor or a king's +displeasure, royal largesses or royal chains, that moment of noble +exultation was worth a lifetime of trials.</p> + +<p>Columbus first named Cuba "Juana," in honor of Prince John, son of +Ferdinand and Isabella. Subsequently the king named it Fernandina. +This was changed to Santiago, and finally to Ave Maria; but the +aboriginal designation has never been lost, Cuba being its Indian and +only recognized name. The new-comers found the land inhabited by a +most peculiar race, hospitable, inoffensive, timid, fond of the dance +and the rude music of their own people, yet naturally indolent, from +the character of the climate they inhabited. They had some definite +idea of God and heaven, and were governed by patriarchs or kings, +whose word was their only law, and whose age gave them undisputed +precedence. They spoke the dialect of the Lucayos, or Bahamas, from +which islands it is presumed by historians they originated; but it +would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> seem more reasonable to suppose that both the people of the +Bahamas and of the West India isles came originally from the mainland; +that is, either north or south of the Isthmus of Panama. In numbers +they were vaguely estimated at a million, a calculation the +correctness of which we cannot but doubt. Reliable local authority, +Cubans who have made a study of the early history of the island, +assured the author that the aborigines at the time of Velasquez's +first settlement, say in 1512, could not have exceeded four hundred +thousand. They had but few weapons of offense or defense, and knew not +the use of the bow and arrow. Being a peaceful race and having no wild +animals to contend with, their ingenuity had never been taxed to +invent weapons of warfare against man or beast. The natives were at +once subjected by the new-comers, who reduced them gradually to an +actual state of slavery, and proving hard task-masters, the poor +overworked creatures died by hundreds, until they had nearly +disappeared. The home government then granted permission to import +negroes from the coast of Africa to labor upon the soil and to seek +for gold, which was known to exist in the river courses. Thus +commenced the foreign slave-trade of the West Indies, King Ferdinand +himself sending fifty slaves from Seville to labor in the mines, and +from that time this plague spot upon humanity has festered on the +island. It should be remembered in this connection that previous to +the discoveries of Columbus, negro slavery had been reduced to a +system by the Moors, and thus existed in Spain before the days of the +great Genoese.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards were not content with putting the aborigines to labor +far beyond their power of endurance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> on the soil where they were born, +but shipped them by hundreds to Spain to be sold in the slave-market +of Seville, the proceeds being turned into the royal treasury. +Columbus himself was the promoter of this outrageous return for the +hospitality he had received at the hands of the natives. Irving +apologetically says he was induced to this course in order to +indemnify the sovereigns of Castile and Leon for the large expense his +expedition had been to them. The fact that the great navigator +originated the slave-trade in the New World cannot be ignored, though +it detracts in no small degree from the glory of his career.</p> + +<p>Although the conquerors have left us but few details respecting these +aborigines, still we know with certainty from the narrative of +Columbus, and those of some of his most intelligent followers, that +they were docile, artless, generous, but inclined to ease; that they +were well-formed, grave, and far from possessing the vivacity of the +natives of the south of Europe. They expressed themselves with a +certain modesty and respect, and were hospitable to the last degree. +Reading between the lines of the records of history, it is manifest +that after their own rules and estimates, their lives were chaste and +proper, though it was admissible for kings to have several wives. +Moreover, though living in a state of nudity, they religiously +observed the decencies of life, and were more outraged by Spanish +lasciviousness than can be clearly expressed. This debasing trait, +together with the greed for gold exhibited by the new-comers, +disabused the minds of the natives as to the celestial origin of their +visitors, a belief which they at first entertained, and which the +Spaniards for mercenary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> purposes strove to impress upon them. The +labor of this people was limited to the light work necessary to +provide for the prime wants of life, beyond which they knew nothing, +while the bounteous climate of the tropics spared the necessity of +clothing. They preferred hunting and fishing to agriculture; beans and +maize, with the fruits that nature gave them in abundance, rendered +their diet at once simple, nutritious, and entirely adequate to all +their wants. They possessed no quadrupeds of any description, except a +race of voiceless dogs, as they were designated by the early +writers,—why we know not, since they bear no resemblance to the +canine species, but are not very unlike a large rat. This animal is +trapped and eaten by the people on the island to this day, having much +of the flavor and nature of the rabbit.</p> + +<p>The native Cubans were of tawny complexion and beardless, resembling +in many respects the aborigines of North America, and as Columbus +described them in his first communication to his royal patrons, were +"loving, tractable, and peaceable; though entirely naked, their +manners were decorous and praiseworthy." The wonderful fecundity of +the soil, its range of noble mountains, its widespread and +well-watered plains, with its extended coast line and excellent +harbors, all challenged the admiration of the discoverers, so that +Columbus recorded in his journal these words: "It is the most +beautiful island that eyes ever beheld,—full of excellent ports and +profound rivers." And again he says; "It excels all other countries, +as far as the day surpasses the night in brightness and splendor." The +spot where the Spaniards first landed is supposed to be on the east +coast, just west of Nuevitas. "As he approached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the island," says +Irving, "he was struck with its magnitude and the grandeur of its +features: its airy mountains, which reminded him of Sicily; its +fertile valleys and long sweeping plains, watered by noble rivers; its +stately forests; its bold promontories and stretching headlands, which +melted away into remotest distance."</p> + +<p>Excursions inland corroborated the favorable impression made by the +country bordering upon the coast. The abundance of yams, Indian corn, +and various fruits, together with the plentifulness of wild cotton, +impressed the explorers most favorably. Their avarice and greed were +also stimulated by the belief that gold was to be found in large +quantities, having received enough to convince them of its actual +presence in the soil, but in the supposition that the precious metal +was to be found in what is termed paying quantities they were +mistaken.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards were not a little surprised to see the natives using +rude pipes, in which they smoked a certain dried leaf with apparent +gratification. Tobacco was indigenous, and in the use of this now +universal narcotic, these simple savages indulged in at least one +luxury. The flora was strongly individualized. The frangipanni, tall +and almost leafless, with thick fleshy shoots, decked with a small +white blossom, was very fragrant and abundant; here also was the wild +passion-flower, in which the Spaniards thought they beheld the emblems +of our Saviour's passion. The golden-hued peta was found beside the +myriad-flowering oleander, while the undergrowth was braided with +cacti and aloes. The poisonous manchineel was observed, a drop of +whose milky juice will burn the flesh like vitriol. Here the invaders +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +also observed and noted the night-blooming cereus. They were delighted +by fruits of which they knew not the names, such as the custard-apple, +mango, zapota, banana, and others, growing in such rank luxuriance as +to seem miraculous. We can well conceive of the pleasure and surprise +of these adventurous strangers, when first partaking of these new and +delicate products. This was four hundred years ago, and to-day the +same flora and the same luscious food grow there in similar abundance. +Nature in this land of ceaseless summer puts forth strange eagerness, +ever running to fruits, flowers, and fragrance, as if they were +outlets for her exuberant fecundity.</p> + +<p>The inoffensive, unsuspicious natives shared freely everything they +possessed with the invaders. Hospitality was with them an instinct, +fostered by nature all about them; besides which it was a considerable +time before they ceased to believe their guests superior beings +descended from the clouds in their winged vessels. The Indians lived +in villages of two or three hundred houses, built of wood and +palm-leaf, each dwelling containing several families, the whole of one +lineage, and all were governed by caciques or kings, the spirit of the +government being patriarchal.</p> + +<p>We are told by Las Casas, who accompanied Velasquez in all his +expeditions, that "their dances were graceful and their singing +melodious, while with primeval innocence they thought no harm of being +clad only with nature's covering." The description of the gorgeous +hospitality extended to these treacherous invaders is absolutely +touching in the light of our subsequent knowledge. They reared no +sacred temples, nor did they seem to worship idols, and yet some few +antiquities have been preserved which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> would seem to indicate that the +natives possessed grotesque images, half human and half animal, like +Chinese gods in effect. These were wrought so rudely out of stone as +hardly to convey any fixed idea; vague and imperfect, it is not safe +to define them as idolatrous images. They might have been left here by +a previous race, for, as we are all aware, respectable authorities +hold that this part of the world was originally peopled by +Carthaginians, Israelites, Egyptians, Hindoos, and Africans. Columbus, +in his second voyage to the West Indies, found the stern-post of a +vessel lying on the shore of one of the Leeward isles, which was +strongly presumptive evidence that a European ship had been in these +waters before him. The fact that at this writing, as already +described, there lies in the harbor of Santiago the wreck of the old +St. Paul, which must be over three centuries old, shows how long a +piece of marine architecture may last, submerged in salt water.</p> + +<p>An idol similar to those referred to was dug up in Hayti, and is now +believed to be in the British Museum, drawings of which the author has +seen, and which resemble original religious emblems examined by him in +the caves of Elephanta, at Bombay. This emblem, carved by a people +unacquainted with the use of edge tools, is believed by antiquarians +to afford a degree of light as to the history of worship of the +ancient inhabitants of Hispaniola, and also to form a collateral +support of the conjecture that they sprang from the parent stock of +Asia. According to Las Casas, the native Cubans had a vague tradition +of the formation of the earth, and of all created things; of the +deluge, of the ark, the raven, and the dove. They knew the tradition +of Noah also, according to the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> high authority, but for our own +part we do not believe that the aborigines had any knowledge of this +Biblical story. Their priests were fanatics and kept the people in +fear by gross and extravagant means; but as to any formulated system +of religious worship, it may be doubted if the aborigines of Cuba +recognized any at the time of its discovery by Columbus. Unbroken +peace reigned among them, and they turned their hands against no other +people.</p> + +<p>These aborigines exhibited many of the traits universally evinced by +savage races, such as painting their bodies with red earth and +adorning their heads with the feathers of brilliant birds. Much of the +soil is red, almost equal to a pigment, for which purpose it was +employed by the natives. They lived mostly in the open air, weaving +themselves hammocks in which they slept, suspended among the trees. +The cotton which they spun grew wild, but tobacco they planted and +cultivated after a rude fashion. The iguana and the voiceless dog, +already spoken of, were hunted and eaten, the former of the lizard +family, the latter scarcely more than fifteen inches long. They had +domestic birds which they fattened and ate. Their only arms were +lances tipped with sea-shells, and a sort of wooden sword, both of +which were more for display than for use. Fish they caught in nets and +also with hooks made of bones. Their boats, or canoes, were formed of +the dug-out trunks of trees, and some of these canoes, as Columbus +tells us, were sufficiently large to accommodate fifty men. An ancient +writer upon this subject says the oars were well formed and properly +fitted, but were used only with the power of the arms, that is as +paddles, no rowlocks being cut in the boat. The speed attained by +them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> was remarkable, reaching four leagues an hour when an effort to +that end was made by the occupants. A large canoe, made from the +straight trunk of a mahogany tree, is described as having been five +feet in width and seventy-five feet long. This craft was propelled by +twenty-five oarsmen on each side, a steersman in the stern, and a +lookout at the prow. This was a cacique's barge, in which he made +visits of state along shore and up the rivers.</p> + +<p>History has preserved a remarkable and characteristic speech made by a +venerable cacique, who approached Columbus with great reverence on the +occasion of his second visit to Cuba, and who, after presenting him +with a basket of ripe fruit, said: "Whether you are divinities or +mortal men, we know not. You have come into these countries with a +force, against which, were we inclined to resist, it would be folly. +We are all therefore at your mercy; but if you are men, subject to +mortality like ourselves, you cannot be unapprised that after this +life there is another, wherein a very different portion is allotted to +good and bad men. If therefore you expect to die, and believe, with +us, that every one is to be rewarded in a future state according to +his conduct in the present, you will do no hurt to those who do none +to you." This was duly interpreted to Columbus by a native whom he had +taken to Spain, and who had there acquired the Spanish language. His +name was Didacus, and the date of the speech was July 7, 1492. The +truth of this version is attested by Herrera and others.</p> + +<p>The reception which Bartholomew Columbus, who was appointed Deputy +Governor in the absence of the Admiral, afterwards met with in his +progress through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> the island to collect tribute from the several +caciques manifested not only kindness and submission, but also +munificence. Having heard of the eagerness of the strangers for gold, +such of them as possessed any brought it forth and freely bestowed it +upon the Spaniards. Those who had not gold brought abundance of +cotton. One cacique in the interior, named Behechio, invited the +Deputy Governor to a state entertainment, on which occasion he was +received with great ceremony. As he approached the king's dwelling, +the royal wives, thirty in number, carrying branches of palm in their +hands, came forth to greet the guest with song and dance. These +matrons were succeeded by a train of virgins. The first wore aprons of +cotton, the last were arrayed only in the innocence of nature, their +hair flowing long and freely about their shoulders and necks. Their +limbs were finely proportioned, and their complexions, though brown, +were smooth, shining, and lovely. The Spaniards were struck with +admiration, believing that they beheld the dryads of the woods and the +nymphs of the ancient fables. The branches which they bore were +delivered to the strangers with low obeisance, indicating entire +submission. When the Spaniards entered the rural palace, amid songs +and the rude music of the people, they found there a plentiful and, +according to the Indian mode of living, a sumptuous banquet prepared +for them.</p> + +<p>After the repast the guests were each conducted to separate lodgings, +and each provided with a cotton hammock. On the next day feasting and +games were resumed; dancing and singing closed each evening for four +consecutive days, and when the Deputy Governor and his people +departed, they were laden with gifts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> by their generous entertainers, +who also accompanied them far on their way. This episode will perhaps +serve better to give us a just insight into the condition and +character of the aborigines of Cuba at that early period than any +amount of detailed description possibly could.</p> + +<p>These aborigines, according to Las Casas, had no tradition even, +touching their own origin, and when asked about it only shook their +heads and pointed to the sky. Antiquarians have endeavored to draw +some reliable or at least reasonable deductions from the collection of +bones and skeletons found in the mountain caves of the island, but no +conclusion worthy of record has ever been arrived at. Still, upon +these evidences some scientists pin their faith that Cuba was a +portion of the primitive world. Speaking of these caves, there are +many subterranean openings on the island, down which rivers of +considerable size abruptly disappear, not again to be met with, though +it is reasonably presumed that they find their way through the rocks +and soil to the sea-coast.</p> + +<p>During the ten years subsequent to its discovery, Columbus visited and +partially explored the island at four different times, the last being +in 1502, four years previous to his death, which took place at +Valladolid in 1506. It seems singular to us that his investigations +left him still ignorant of the fact that Cuba was an island, and not a +part of a new continent. This conviction remained with him during his +lifetime. It was not until 1511 that the Spaniards commenced to +colonize the island, when Diego Columbus, then Governor of San +Domingo, sent an expedition of three hundred men for the purpose, +under the command of Diego Velasquez, whose landing was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> disputed by +the natives. A period of ten years had served to open their eyes to +Spanish lust and lore of gold, and from having at first regarded them +as superior beings, entitled to their obedience, they were finally +thus driven to fight them in self-defense. But what could naked +savages, armed only with clubs and spears, accomplish against +Europeans, trained soldiers, furnished with firearms, protected by +plate armor, and accompanied by bloodhounds,—men who had learned the +art of war by fighting successfully with the valiant Moors? The +natives were at once overpowered and hundreds were slaughtered. From +that time forth they became the slaves of their conquerors; a fact +which reconciles us in some degree in the light of poetical justice to +the fact that Amerigo Vespucci, who followed in the footsteps of +others, yet took the honors of discovery so far as to give his name to +the largest quarter of the globe.</p> + +<p>Diego Velasquez, the earliest Governor of the island, appears to have +been an energetic and efficient magistrate, and to have administered +affairs with vigor and intelligence. He did not live, however, in a +period when justice ever erred on the side of mercy, and his harsh and +cruel treatment of the aborigines will always remain a stain upon his +memory. The native population soon dwindled away under the sway of the +Spaniards, who imposed tasks upon them far beyond their physical +powers of endurance. The victims of this hardship had no one to +befriend them at that time, and no one has done them justice in +history. The few glimpses of their character which have come down to +us are of a nature greatly to interest us in this now extinct race. +Their one fault was in trusting the invaders at all. At the outset +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +they could have swept them from the face of the earth, but, once +permitted to establish themselves, they soon became too powerful to be +driven out of the land. A native chief, whose only crime was that of +taking up arms in defense of the integrity of his little territory, +fell into the hands of Velasquez, and was cruelly burned at the stake, +near what is now the town of Yara, as a punishment for his patriotism. +The words of this unfortunate but brave chief (Hatuey), extorted by +the torments which he suffered, were: "I prefer hell to heaven, if +there are Spaniards in heaven!"</p> + +<p>In point of energetic action and material progress, Velasquez reminds +us of a later Governor-General, the famous Tacon. In a single decade, +Velasquez founded the seven cities of Baracoa, Santiago de Cuba, +Trinidad, Bayamo, Puerto del Principe, St. Spiritus, and, on the south +coast near Batabano, Havana, since removed to its present site. He +caused the mines to be opened and rendered them profitable, introduced +valuable breeds of cattle, instituted agricultural enterprise, and +opened a large trade with San Domingo, Jamaica, and the Spanish +peninsula. Population increased rapidly, thousands of persons +emigrating annually from Europe, tempted by the inviting stories of +the returned explorers. Emigration schemes were approved and fostered +by the home government, and thus a large community was rapidly divided +among the several cities upon the island. Still this new province was +considered mainly in the light of a military depot by the Spanish +throne, in its famous operations at that period in Mexico. The fact +that it was destined to prove the richest jewel in the Castilian +crown, and a mine of wealth to the Spanish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> treasury, was not dreamed +of at that date in its history. Even the enthusiastic followers of +Cortez, who sought that fabulous El Dorado in the New World, had no +promise for this gem of the Caribbean Sea; but, in spite of every side +issue and all contending interests, the island continued to grow in +numbers and importance, while its native resources were far beyond the +appreciation of the home government.</p> + +<p>Thus Cuba became the headquarters of the Spanish power in the West, +forming the point of departure for those military expeditions which, +though circumscribed in numbers, were yet so formidable in the energy +of the leaders, and in the arms, discipline, courage, fanaticism, and +avarice of their followers, that they were amply adequate to carry out +the vast scheme of conquest for which they were designed. It was hence +that Cortez embarked for the conquest of Mexico; a gigantic +undertaking, a slight glance at which will recall to the mind of the +reader the period of history to which we would direct his attention.</p> + +<p>Landing upon the continent (1518) with a little band scarcely more +than half the complement of a modern regiment, Cortez prepared to +traverse an unknown country, thronged by savage tribes with whose +character, habits, and means of defense he was wholly unacquainted. +This romantic adventure, worthy of the palmiest days of chivalry, was +finally crowned with success, though checkered with various fortunes, +and stained with bloody episodes that prove how the threads of courage +and ferocity are inseparably blended in the woof and warp of Spanish +character. It must be remembered, however, that the spirit of the age +was harsh, relentless, and intolerant, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>and that if the Aztecs, +idolaters and sacrificers of human victims, found no mercy at the +hands of the fierce Catholics whom Cortez commanded, neither did the +Indians of our own section of the continent fare much better at the +hands of men professing to be disciples of a purer faith, and coming +to these shores, not as warriors, but themselves persecuted fugitives.</p> + +<p>The Spanish generals who invaded Mexico encountered a people who had +attained a far higher point of civilization than their red brethren of +the outlying Caribbean Islands, or those of the northeastern portion +of the continent. Vast pyramids, imposing sculptures, curious arms, +fanciful garments, various kinds of manufactures, the relics of which +strongly interest the student of the past, filled the invaders with +surprise. There was much that was curious and startling in their +mythology, and the capital of the Mexican empire presented a strange +and fascinating spectacle to the eyes of Cortez. The rocky +amphitheatre in the midst of which it was built still remains +unchanged, but the great lake which surrounded it, traversed by +causeways and covered with floating gardens laden with flowers, is +gone.</p> + +<p>The star of the Aztec dynasty set in blood. In vain did the +inhabitants of the conquered city, roused to madness by the cruelty +and extortion of the victors, expel them from their midst. Cortez +refused to flee farther than the shore; the light of his burning +galleys rekindled the desperate valor of his followers, and Mexico +fell, as a few years after did Peru under the perfidy and sword of +Pizarro, thus completing the scheme of conquest, and giving Spain a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +colonial empire far more splendid than that of any other power in +Christendom.</p> + +<p>Of the agents in this vast scheme of territorial aggrandizement, we +see Cortez dying in obscurity and Pizarro assassinated in his palace, +while retributive justice has overtaken the monarchy at whose behest +the richest portions of the Western Continent were violently wrested +from their native possessors.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Baracoa, the First Capital. — West Indian Buccaneers. — +Military Despotism. — A Perpetual State of Siege. — A +Patriotic Son of Cuba. — Political Condition of the Island. +— Education of Cuban Youths. — Attempts at Revolution. — +Fate of General Narciso Lopez. — The Late Civil War and its +Leader. — Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. — +Stronghold of the Insurgents. — Guerrillas. — Want of +Self-Reliance. — Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. — +What Spain was. — What Spain is. — Rise and Fall of an Empire. +</div> + +<p>Baracoa lies one hundred miles northeast from Santiago, and was the +capital of the island as first established by Velasquez. Here Leo X. +erected in 1518 the first cathedral in Cuba. The town is situated on +the north coast, near the eastern extremity of the island, having a +small but deep harbor, and a considerable trade in the shipping of +sugar and fruits to this country. The population at present numbers +about six thousand. Five years after the settlement of Baracoa, the +capital was moved to Santiago de Cuba, where it remained until 1589, +when Havana was formally declared to be the capital of the island, its +first Captain-General being Juan de Tejada. The city was captured and +partially destroyed by a French pirate in 1638, and afterwards +suffered a like catastrophe at the hands of the buccaneers of combined +nationality, embracing some disaffected Spaniards. So late as 1760 +Havana was captured and held by the English, under the Duke of +Albemarle, but was restored to Spain, after a brief occupancy, in +1763. The first grand impulse to the material prosperity of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +the city, anomalous though it may seem, was given through its capture by the +British. It is true that the victors seized everything by force, but +they also taught the listless people how to repair their losses, and +how to multiply prosperity. The port of Havana, accustomed heretofore +to receive the visits of half a score of European vessels annually, +suddenly became the rendezvous of a thousand ships in the same period +of time, much to the surprise of the inhabitants. Bourbon in nature as +the Spaniards were and still are, they could not but profit by the +brilliant example of their enemies, and from that time forward the +city grew rapidly in commercial importance, and has continued to do +so, notwithstanding the rivalry of Matanzas, Santiago, Cienfuegos, and +other ports, as well as the drawbacks of civil war and business +stagnation.</p> + +<p>These buccaneers of the West Indies, to whom we have so often alluded, +were composed mostly of English, French, and Dutch adventurers, whose +bitter hatred the Spaniards early incurred. They were for a long time +their terror and scourge, being the real masters of the ocean in these +latitudes. They feared no enemy and spared none, while by shocking +acts of needless cruelty they proved themselves fiends in human shape. +Among these rovers there were often found men particularly fitted for +the adventurous career they had adopted, men who combined remarkable +executive ability with a spirit of daring bravery and a total +disregard of all laws, human and divine. By a few such leaders the +bands of freebooters were held in hand, and preserved their +organization for many years; obedience to the word of their chief, +after he was once chosen as such, being the one inviolable +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +law of their union. The romance of the sea owes its most startling chapters +to the career of these pirates. Sometimes their principal rendezvous +was at the Isle of Pines; at others further north among the Bahamas, +Nassau being one of their favorite resorts.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, under numerous and often changed Captains-General, +the island of Cuba increased in population by free emigration from +Spain, and by the constant importations of slaves from Africa. It may +be said to have been governed by a military despotism from the very +outset to the present time; and nothing short of such an arbitrary +rule could maintain the connection between the island and so exacting +a mother country, more than three thousand miles across the ocean. +Accordingly we find the Captain-General invested with unlimited power. +He is in fact a viceroy appointed by the crown of Spain, and +accountable only to the reigning sovereign for his administration of +the colony. His rule is absolute. He has the power of life and death +in his hands. He can by his arbitrary will send into exile any person +who resides in the island whom he considers inimical to the interests +of the home government. Of the exercise of this power instances are +constantly occurring, as in the case of the editor of the "Revista +Economica," already recorded. He can at will suspend the operation of +the laws and ordinances, can destroy or confiscate property, and in +short, the island may be said to be in a perpetual state of siege.</p> + +<p>Such is the infirmity of human nature that few individuals can be +safely trusted with despotic power; accordingly we find no +Captain-General whose administration will bear the test of rigid +examination. Indeed, the venality of a majority of these officials +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +has been so gross as to have passed into a proverb. It is not to be +expected that officers from Spain should consult the true interests of +the Cubans; they are not sent hither for that purpose, but merely to +look after the revenue of the crown, and to swell it to the very +uttermost. The office of Governor-General is of course a brilliant +prize, for which there are plenty of aspirants eagerly struggling, +while the means by which a candidate is most likely to succeed in +obtaining the appointment presupposes a character of an inferior +order. This official knows that he cannot count on a long term of +office, and hence he makes no effort to study the interests or gain +the good-will of the people over whom he presides. He has a twofold +object only in view: namely, to keep the revenue well up to the mark, +and to enrich himself as speedily as possible. The princely salary he +receives—fifty thousand dollars per annum, with a palace and +household attendants supplied—is but a portion of the income which, +by a system of peculation, he is enabled to divert to his private +coffers. As a rule, the Captain-General comes out to Cuba a poor man, +and returns a rich one, however brief his term of office.</p> + +<p>Occasionally during the lapse of years a true and patriotic man has +filled this important post, when the remarkable elements of prosperity +contained within the limits of this peerless land were rapidly +developed and advanced. Such an one was Don Luis de las Casas, whose +name is cherished by all patriotic Cubans, as also is that of Don +Francisco de Arrango, an accomplished statesman and a native of +Havana. He was educated in Spain, and designed to follow the law as a +profession. This man, being thoroughly acquainted with the +possibilities of the island and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> condition and wants of his +countrymen, succeeded in procuring the amelioration of some of the +most flagrant abuses of the colonial system. In his argument for +reform before the home government, he told them that serious dissent +permeated every class of the community, and was bid in return to +employ a still more stringent system of rule. To this Arrango replied +that force was not remedy, and that to effectually reform the +rebellious they must first reform the laws. His earnest reason carried +conviction, and finally won concession. By his exertions the staple +productions of the island were so much increased that the revenue, in +place of falling short of the expenses of the government as his +enemies had predicted, soon yielded a large surplus. He early raised +his voice against the iniquitous slave trade, and suggested the +introduction of white labor, though he admitted that the immediate and +wholesale abolition of slavery was impracticable. This was the rock on +which he split, as it regarded his influence with the Spaniards in +Cuba, that is, with the planters and rich property holders. Slavery +with them was a sine qua non. Many of them owned a thousand Africans +each, and the institution, as an arbitrary power as well as the means +of wealth, was ever dear to the Spanish heart. Former and subsequent +Captains-General not only secretly encouraged the clandestine +importation of slaves, after issuing an edict prohibiting it, but +profited pecuniarily by the business. It was owing to his exertions +that the duty on coffee, spirits, and cotton was remitted for a period +of ten years, and that machinery for the sugar plantations was allowed +to be imported into Cuba from the United States free of all duty.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +The patriotic services of Arrango were appreciated by the court of +Madrid, although he was at times the inflexible opponent of its +selfish schemes. The Cross of Charles III. showed the esteem in which +he was held by that monarch. With a modesty which did him honor he +declined to accept a title of nobility which was afterwards tendered +to him by his king. This patriotic son of Cuba was at heart a +republican, and declared that the king could make noblemen, but God +only could make gentlemen. In 1813, when, by the adoption of the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba became entitled to representation in the +general Cortes,—a privilege but briefly enjoyed,—he went to Madrid +as a deputy, and there achieved the crowning glory of his useful life: +namely, the opening of the ports of the island to foreign trade. In +1817 he returned to his native land with the rank of Counselor of +State and Financial Intendant of Cuba, also possessing the Grand Cross +of the Order of Isabella. He died in 1837, at the age of seventy-two, +after a long and eminently useful life, bequeathing large sums of +money for various public purposes in his native isle.</p> + +<p>When the invasion of Spain, which took place in 1808, produced the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba was considered entitled, as we have stated, +to enjoy its benefits, and it was so announced by royal statute; but +political revolution at home and a manifest restiveness upon the +island finally led in 1836 to the revoking of this royal statute, +which had never been practically operative, and the old Constitution +was proclaimed.</p> + +<p>Up to this period of time the various political events at home had +disturbed but slightly the tranquillity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> of this rich province of +Spain. The Cubans, although sensible of the progress of public +intelligence and wealth under the protection of a few enlightened +governors and through the influence of some distinguished and +patriotic individuals, still felt that these advances were slow, +partial, and limited. The most intelligent realized that there was no +regular system; that the public interests were sure to suffer, +confided to officials entrusted with unlimited power. They frequently +saw themselves betrayed by a cupidity which impelled the authorities +to enrich themselves in every possible way at the expense of general +suffering. Added to these sources of discontent was the powerful +influence exerted by the spectacle of the rapidly increasing greatness +of the United States, where a portion of the Cuban youths were wont to +receive their education. No matter in what political faith these +youths had left home, they were sure to return republicans.</p> + +<p>There also were the examples of Mexico and Spanish South America, +which had recently conquered with their blood their emancipation from +monarchy. Liberal ideas were naturally diffused by Cubans who had +traveled either in Europe or North America, there imbibing the spirit +of modern civilization. But with a fatuity and obstinacy which has +always characterized her, the mother country resolved to ignore all +causes of discontent, and their significant influence as manifested by +the people of the island. In place of yielding to the popular current +and introducing a liberal and mild system of government, she drew the +reins yet tighter, curtailing many former privileges. Thus it was that +blind persistence in the fatal principle of despotic domination +relaxed the natural bonds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> uniting Cuba and the mother country, and +infused gall into the hearts of the governed. Obedience still +continued, but it was the dangerous obedience of terror, not the +secure and instinctive spirit of loyalty.</p> + +<p>This severity on the part of the home government has naturally given +rise to several attempts to cast off the Spanish yoke. The first +occurred in 1823, when Simon Bolivar offered to aid the disaffected +party by throwing an invading force into the island. Another was made +in 1826, and a third in 1828. In 1848 a conspiracy was formed at +Cienfuegos and Trinidad to establish Cuban independence, under the +leadership of General Narciso Lopez; but finding that his plans were +premature, he escaped to this country, and here arranged a descent +upon the island, which he led in person: this was in 1850. General +Lopez, however, was not seconded by the timid natives, though they had +freely pledged themselves to do so, and his expedition, after winning +one decisive battle and several important skirmishes, was at last +overpowered and its leader promptly executed. General Lopez was an +adopted citizen of Cuba, and was married to one of her daughters. He +was executed at the age of fifty-two.</p> + +<p>The Lopez expedition would seem to have been the most serious and best +organized attempt at revolution in Cuba by invasion, though there have +been formidable attempts since. From 1868 to 1876 Cuba may be said to +have been in a state of chronic civil war. This outbreak was led by +Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, an able lawyer and wealthy planter of +Bayamo, in the eastern department of the island. He raised the +standard of independence on his estate, Demajagua, supported at the +outset by less than fifty men. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> was in October, 1868, and by the +middle of November he had an organized army of twelve thousand men; +poorly armed, it must be admitted, but united in purpose and of +determined will. That portion of the island contiguous to Santiago, +and between that city and Cienfuegos, was for a long period almost +entirely in possession of the patriot forces. Here many sanguinary +battles were fought with varying fortune, at terrible sacrifice of +life, especially on the part of the government troops, over one +hundred thousand of whom, first and last, are known to have perished +in that district. Spain actually sent one hundred and forty-five +thousand enlisted men to Cuba during the eight years of active +warfare. Of this number those who finally returned to the European +peninsula were but a few hundreds! It was publicly stated in the +Cortes of Madrid that not enough of that immense force ever returned +to fill a single regiment! The climate was far more fatal to these +soldiers than were patriot bullets. The warfare was conducted by the +native Cubans mostly on the guerrilla plan, and was ten times more +destructive to the imported soldiers than to themselves. Discipline +counted for little or nothing in contending with men who fought +single-handed and from ambush, decimating the ranks of an invading +column, who in turn could only fire at random.</p> + +<p>Exhaustion and promised concessions, which were, as usual with the +Spanish government, never fulfilled, finally brought this struggle to +an end; but it cost Spain many millions of dollars and the lives of +over a hundred and fifty thousand men, saying nothing of the +destruction of an enormous amount of property on the island, belonging +to loyal Spaniards. Miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> upon miles of thrifty plantations, with all +their buildings and machinery, were laid waste, and remain so to this +day.</p> + +<p>Since 1876 there have been roving bands of insurgents in existence, +causing the authorities more or less serious trouble, leading them at +times to make serious attempts at their entire suppression. But the +mountains and half-inaccessible forests of the eastern department +still serve to secrete many armed and disaffected people, whose +frequent outbreaks are made public by the slow process of oral +information. The press is forbidden to publish any news of this +character. Thus it will be seen that, although the spirit of liberty +may slumber in the island, it is by no means dead, nor is the intense +hatred which exists between the home-born Spaniard and the native +Cuban growing less from year to year. Indeed, the insurrection of +Trinidad and Cienfuegos (1868) still smoulders, and any extreme +political exigency would be liable to cause it to blaze forth with +renewed force. The region where the insurgents have always made their +rendezvous, and which they have virtually held for years, is nearest +to Guantanamo and Santiago. This mountainous district is the resort of +all runaway slaves, escaped criminals, and those designated as +insurgents. These together form at the present time a roving community +of several hundred desperate men. These refugees, divided into small +bands, make predatory raids upon travelers and loyal planters, as we +have described, to keep themselves supplied with the necessities of +life other than those afforded by the prolific hand of Nature. +Occasionally they are organized by some fresh leader, some daring +native, stimulated by a spirit of patriotism, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>and possessing some +executive ability; then follows a systematic outbreak of just +sufficient importance to harass the government, and to form, perhaps, +an excuse for demanding a fresh regiment of victims from the European +peninsula. Such a guerrilla contest engages the worst passions of the +combatants, and quarter is neither asked nor given when they come face +to face. The bloodthirsty acts of both sides, as related to the author +during his late visit to the spot, are too horrible to record in these +pages. It is not legitimate warfare, but rather wholesale murder, +which characterizes these occasions, and there is no expedient of +destruction not resorted to by both the refugees and the pursuing +soldiers. The nature of the country favors the revolutionists, and +determines their mode of conflict. Thus far, when the irregular bands +have been strong enough to meet these detachments of regulars sent +into their neighborhood to capture them, they have nearly always +beaten them gallantly, and this has served to perpetuate their hopes, +desperate as is a cause which only outlaws, escaped criminals, and +slaves dare to fight for. These people appear to be well supplied with +arms and ammunition, which it is said are smuggled to them from +sympathizers in this country, particularly from Florida. Though their +ranks are supposed to embrace but small numbers, still they form a +nucleus at all times, about which discontented spirits may gather. +Thus it is found necessary to quarter a foreign army of thirty +thousand soldiers upon the people at the present time, while half the +navy of Spain lies anchored in the ports of the island.</p> + +<p>One great drawback and defect in the character<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> of the native Cubans +is a want of self-reliance. The remedy for the outrageous oppression +under which they have so long struggled lies within themselves; "for +they can conquer who believe they can." In the consciousness of +strength is strength, but the Creole republicans have never yet +evinced the necessary degree of true manhood to challenge general +outside sympathy, or to command the respect of other nationalities. +The numerous revolutionary outbreaks upon the island—so frequent in +the last half century as to be chronic—have all been of the most +insignificant character, compared with the importance of the occasion +and the object in view. These efforts have mostly been made from +without, almost entirely unsupported from within the borders of Cuba, +with the exception of that of 1868. It appears incredible that an +intelligent people, within so short a distance of our Southern coast, +constantly visited by the citizens of a free republic, and having the +example of successful revolt set them by the men of the same race, +both in the North and the South, weighed down by oppression almost +without parallel, should never have aimed an effectual blow at their +oppressors. It would seem that the softness of the unrivaled climate +of those skies, beneath which it is luxury only to exist, has unnerved +this people, and that the effeminate spirit of the original +inhabitants had descended in retribution to the posterity of their +conquerors.</p> + +<p>In closing these brief chapters relating to the early history of the +island of Cuba, and in bringing the record up to our own period, some +natural reflections suggest themselves as to the present condition of +the mother country. We follow with more than passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> interest the +condition of Spain, whose history is so closely interwoven with our +own. From the close of the fifteenth century our paths have run on in +parallel lines, but while we have gone on increasing in power and +wealth, she has sunk in the scale of decadence with a rapidity no less +surprising than has been the speed of our own progress. At the +commencement of the sixteenth century Spain threatened to become the +mistress of the world, as Rome had been before her. She may be said to +have at that period dominated Europe. In art she was in the very +foremost position: Murillo, Velasquez, Ribera, and other famous +painters were her honored sons. In literature she was also +distinguished: both Cervantes and Lope de Vega contributed to her +greatness and lasting fame. While, in discoverers and conquerors, she +sent forth Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. The banners of Castile and +Aragon floated alike on the Pacific and the margin of the Indian +Ocean. Her ships sailed in every sea, and brought home freights of +fabulous value from all the regions of the earth. Her manufacturers +produced the richest silks and velvets; her soil yielded corn and +wine; her warriors were adventurous and brave; her soldiers inherited +the gallantry of the followers of Charles V.; her cities were the +splendid abodes of luxury, refinement, and elegance. She was the court +of Europe, the acknowledged leader of chivalry and of grandeur.</p> + +<p>This is the picture of what Spain was at no remote period of time, but +in her instance we have an example showing us that states are no more +exempt than individuals from the mutability of fate. So was it with +Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, and Rome, though in their case we look far +back into the vista of history to recall the change, whereas in the +instance of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> Spain we are contemporary witnesses. From a first-class +power, how rapidly she has sunk into comparative insignificance! She +has been shorn of her wealthy colonies, one after another, in the East +and in the West, holding with feeble grasp a few inconsiderable +islands only besides this gem of the Antilles, the choicest jewel of +her crown. Extremely poor and deeply indebted, she has managed for +years to extort by means of the most outrageous system of taxation a +large share of her entire revenue from the island of Cuba, her home +population having long since become exhausted by over-burdensome +imposts. Her nobles of to-day are an effeminate, soulless, and +imbecile race, while the common people, with some excellent qualities, +are yet ignorant, cruel, and passionate. The whole country is divided +against itself, the tottering throne being with difficulty upheld. +Even the elements have of late seemed to combine against her, +decimating whole cities of her southern possessions by earthquakes, +and smiting her people with pestilence.</p> + +<p>This simple statement of her present situation is patent to all who +read and observe. It is not an overdrawn picture. In it the moralist +beholds the retributive justice of providence. As Spain in the +plenitude of her power was ambitious, cruel, and perfidious, so has +the measure which she meted out to others been in return accorded to +herself. As with fire and sword she swept the Aztec and the Incas from +Mexico and Peru, so was she at last driven from these genial countries +by their revolted inhabitants. The spoiler has been despoiled, the +victor has been vanquished, and thus has Spain met the just fate +clearly menaced by the Scriptures to those who smite with the sword.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Geographical. — A Remarkable Weed. — Turtle-Hunting. — +Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. — The Gulf Stream. — Deep-Sea +Soundings. — Mountain Range of Cuba. — Curious Geological +Facts. — Subterranean Caverns. — Wild Animals. — The +Rivers of the Island. — Fine Harbors. — Historic Memories +of the Caribbean Sea. — Sentinel of the Gulf. — Importance +of the Position. — Climate. — Hints for Invalids. — +Matanzas. — Execution of a Patriot. — Valley of Yumuri; +Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. +</div> + +<p>Having thus briefly glanced at the historical and political story of +Cuba,—whose very name seems bathed in sunshine and fragrance, yet +bedewed with human tears,—let us now consider its peculiarities of +climate, soil, and population, together with its geographical +characteristics. The form of the island is quite irregular, resembling +the blade of a Turkish scimitar slightly curved back, or that of a +long narrow crescent, presenting its convex side to the north. It +stretches away in this shape from east to west, throwing its western +end into a curve, as if to form a barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of +Mexico, and as if at some ancient period it had formed a part of the +American continent; severed on its north side from the Florida +peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf Stream, and from Yucatan, on its +southwestern point, by a current setting into the Gulf. Two broad +channels are thus formed, by either of which the Mexican Gulf is +entered.</p> + +<p>These channels are nearly of the same width, somewhat +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +exceeding a hundred miles each, the northern passage being a few miles the +broader. The Bahama Banks extend along its northern coast-line about +fifty or sixty miles distant, where commences the group of many small +isles known as the Bahamas, and of which we have already treated. On +her eastern extreme, near Cape Maysi, Cuba is within about fifty miles +of the western shore of Hayti, from which it is separated by the +Windward Passage. The southern shore is washed by the Caribbean Sea, +which is also here and there interspersed with small islands of little +importance. One hundred and fifty miles due south lies the British +island of Jamaica, with a superficial area of over four thousand +square miles. Still further to the eastward, on the other side of +Hayti, lies Porto Rico (like Cuba a Spanish possession), and the two +groups of islands known as the Leeward and Windward isles. These are +of various nationalities, including English, French, and Dutch, thus +completing the entire region familiarly known to us as the West +Indies.</p> + +<p>In approaching the coast from the Windward isles, the observant +traveler will notice the fields of what is called gulf-weed, which +floats upon the surface of the sea. It is a unique genus, found +nowhere except in these tropical waters, and must not be confounded +with the sea-weed encountered by Atlantic steamers off the Banks of +Newfoundland, and about the edges of the Gulf Stream in that region. +This singular and interesting weed propagates itself on the waves, and +there sustains, as on the shore of New Providence, zoöphytes and +mollusks which also abound in these latitudes. The poetical theory +relating to this sargasso, and possibly to the animals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> that cling to +it, is that it marks the site of an Atlantic continent sunk long ages +since, and that, transformed from a rooting to a floating plant, it +wanders round and round as if in search of the rocks upon which it +once grew. The southern shore of Cuba presents much of special +interest to the conchologist in the variety and beauty of the +sea-shells that abound upon its beaches. The water is of an exquisite +color, a brilliant green, very changeable, like liquid opal. Were an +artist truthfully to depict it, he would be called color-mad. Northern +skies are never reflected in waters of such fanciful hues. Some +beautiful specimens of white corals are found here, but they are not a +characteristic of the coast.</p> + +<p>On that portion bordering the Old Bahama Channel, and also opposite +the Isle of Pines, which Columbus named Evangelista,—on this south +shore, large numbers of turtles are taken annually, which produce the +best quality of tortoise-shell. It is strange that the habits of these +creatures down here in the Caribbean Sea should so closely resemble +those of the tiny tortoises described by Thoreau as frequenting Walden +Pond. The female turtle digs the hole in which to deposit her eggs on +the sandy beach, just above the margin of high tide, generally +choosing a moonlight night for the purpose. The hole is often so large +that the turtle will require an hour of industrious labor to dig it to +her entire satisfaction. Observing the strictest silence, the +turtle-hunter steals upon the animal, and with a single motion turns +it upon its back, rendering it utterly helpless, after which it can be +secured at will. Thousands are annually caught in this manner.</p> + +<p>It is a curious fact worth recalling to memory that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> four hundred +years ago, when Columbus first landed upon the island, he found that +the aborigines kept turtle corrals near the beach, amply supplied with +these animals. From them they procured eggs, and also furnished +themselves with the only meat which it was possible to obtain, if we +except that of the little "voiceless dog" which they hunted, and such +birds as they could snare. Probably as many turtles were taken by +those Carib Indians in 1492 as are caught by the fishermen this year +of our Lord, in the same waters, showing how inexhaustible is the +supply of Neptune's kingdom. Modern epicures may not therefore claim +any distinction as to the priority of discovery touching turtle soup +and turtle steaks, both of which were certainly indulged in by the +Caribs in Columbus' time, and probably they were in vogue many +centuries previous.</p> + +<p>One neither departs from nor approaches the Cuban shore without +crossing that marvelous ocean river, the Gulf Stream, with banks and +bottom of cold water, while its body and surface are warm. Its color, +in the region of the gulf where it seems to have its rise, is indigo +blue, so distinct that the eye can follow its line of demarkation +where it joins the common waters of the sea in their prairie-green. +Its surface temperature on the coast of the United States is from 75° +to 80° Fahrenheit. Its current, of a uniform speed of four to five +miles per hour, expends immense power in its course, and moves a body +of water in the latitude of the Carolina coast fully two hundred miles +wide. This aqueous body exceeds in quantity the rivers of the +Mississippi and the Amazon multiplied one thousand times. Its +temperature diminishes very gradually, while it moves thousands of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +leagues, until one branch loses itself in Arctic regions, and the +other breaks on the coast of Europe. It is well known to navigators +that one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its outlet northward from the +Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage, and that here the current +extends to the depth of eight hundred fathoms; the width, however, in +this section is not over ten miles. It will be nothing new to tell the +reader that the sea, especially in its proximity to the continents, +has a similar topographical conformation beneath its surface. The +bottom consists of hills, mountains, and valleys, like the surface of +the earth upon which we live. A practical illustration of the fact is +afforded in the soundings taken by the officers of our Coast Survey in +the Caribbean Sea, where a valley was found giving a water depth of +three thousand fathoms, twenty-five miles south of Cuba. The Cayman +islands, in that neighborhood, are the summit of mountains bordering +this deep valley at the bottom of the sea. It is known to extend over +seven hundred miles, from between Cuba and Jamaica nearly to the head +of the bay of Honduras, with an average breadth of eighty miles. How +suggestive the subject of these submarine Alps! Thus the island of +Grand Cayman, scarcely twenty feet above sea level, is the top of a +mountain twenty thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet above the +bottom of the submarine valley beside which it rises,—an altitude +exceeding that of any mountain on the North American continent. A +little more than five miles, or say twenty-seven thousand feet, is the +greatest depth yet sounded at sea.</p> + +<p>With an extensive coast-line particularly well adapted for the +purpose, smuggling is at all times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> successfully carried on in Cuba, +stimulated by an almost prohibitory tariff. It is well understood that +many of the most prosperous merchants in Havana are secretly engaged +in this business. The blindness of minor officials is easily +purchased. The eastern department of the island is most notorious for +this class of illegal trade. It was through these agencies that the +revolutionists were so well supplied with arms, ammunition, and other +necessities during the eight years of civil war. While we are writing +these lines, the cable brings us news of a fresh landing of +"filibusters" on the shores in this immediate neighborhood.</p> + +<p>Cuba is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and compared with +the others has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory, +being about as large as England proper, without the principality of +Wales. Its greatest length from east to west is very nearly eight +hundred miles; its narrowest part is over twenty miles, and its +average width about forty miles. The circumference of the island is +set down at two thousand miles, and it is supposed to contain +thirty-five thousand square miles. The face of the interior is +undulating, with an average level of three hundred feet above the +surface of the sea. The narrow form of the island, and the chain of +mountains which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a +limited course for its rivers, and consequently most of these in the +rainy season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are +nearly dried up. Those streams which sustain themselves at all seasons +are well stocked with fine fish, and afford to lovers of the piscatory +art admirable sport. Near their mouths some of the rivers, like those +of the opposite coast of Florida, are frequented by crocodiles.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +The chain of mountains running through the centre of the island, more +or less broken in its course, is lofty in the east, but gradually +diminishes in elevation towards the west, until it becomes a series of +gently undulating hills of one or two hundred feet above sea level, +ceasing as a connected range in the vicinity of Matanzas. On the +easterly end this range of mountains approaches the south coast +between Puerto Principe and Trinidad. The country lying between Cape +Cruz, Cape Maysi, and the town of Holguin has the highest elevations; +the most lofty point, Turquino, lately measured, has a height of ten +thousand eight hundred feet. Illustrative of the great revolutions +which the globe has undergone in its several geological epochs, +petrified shells and bivalves are found on the summits of these +highest peaks, surrounded by coral rocks, both of which differ +entirely from those at present existing on the shores of the Antilles. +An immense bowlder was pointed out to us on the summit of La Gran +Piedra, at an elevation of five thousand feet, of totally different +composition from any other rocks on the island. The great mystery is +how such a mass of solid stone could have got there. Most of these +mountains are thickly wooded, some of them to their very tops, and +appear to be in a perpetual state of verdure. There are mahogany trees +in these hills reported to be of almost fabulous dimensions, besides +other trees of great age. Some idea of the excellence of the timber +grown in Cuba may be had from the fact that over one hundred Spanish +ships of war—some of which were of the largest size, mounting a +hundred and twenty guns—have been built from native stock at the port +of Havana.</p> + +<p>Copper ore is found in abundance, as well as silver<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> and iron, in the +mountains. Snow is never known to fall even in these elevated +districts, and of course in no other part of the island. In the +interior, the extreme heat of the low-lying sea-coast and cities is +not experienced, and the yellow fever is unknown. Low, level swampy +land is found only on the southern coast, where there are some wild +deer, wild cats and dogs, which are hunted; the former introduced into +Cuba half a century since, the two latter descended from domestic +animals. Large tracts of undulating country are without trees, +affording good pasturage. In some of the mountains are extensive +caves, not unlike the caves of Bellamar near the city of Matanzas, in +which are still to be found the bones of an unknown race, while +several of these elevations are so precipitous as to be nearly +inaccessible.</p> + +<p>Travelers who have visited the Bay of Biscay, on the French and +Spanish shore near Biarritz, have observed how the rocks have been +worn into caverns, arches, alcoves, and honeycombed formations by the +action of the waters for centuries. Just so the soft limestone strata +beneath the surface of Cuba, in many portions of the island, have been +hollowed out, tunneled, and formed into caves, by the tremendous +downpour and wash of tropical rains. So the action of the sea has +created a cave under Moro Castle, at the mouth of the harbor of +Havana, as well as under that other Moro which stands guard over the +entrance of Santiago de Cuba. The existence of these subterranean +caverns has often led to serious accidents. In some instances +buildings which were by chance erected just over them have suddenly +been swallowed up as though by an earthquake.</p> + +<p>Many of the rivers are navigable for short distances. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>The longest is +the Cauto, in the eastern department, which, rising in the Sierra del +Cobre, passes between Holguin and Jiguani, and empties on the south +coast a little north of Manzanillo. It is navigable for half its +length, between fifty and sixty leagues. The river Ay has falls in its +course two hundred feet high, and a natural bridge spanning it, nearly +as remarkable as that of Virginia. The Sagua le Grande is navigable +for five leagues, and the same may be said of the river Sasa. The +Agabama, emptying on the south coast near Trinidad, is also partially +navigable. There are two hundred and sixty rivers in all, independent +of rivulets and torrents. So abundantly is the island supplied with +fresh-water springs, especially on the south side, that the pure +liquid filters through the fissures of the stratified rock in such +quantities as to form, by hydrostatic pressure, springs in the sea +itself some distance from the shore. The sulphurous and thermal +springs of San Diego are the resort of numerous invalids annually, who +come hither from Europe and America.</p> + +<p>The coast and harbors of Cuba are carefully marked for the purpose of +navigation by eighteen well-placed lighthouses, visible from fifteen +to twenty miles at sea, according to the importance of the surrounding +points. That which stands in Moro Castle, on the south side of the +harbor's entrance at Havana, is eighty feet in height and about a +hundred and fifty from the level of the sea. It is visible in clear +weather twenty miles from shore. In honor of a former Governor-General +this lighthouse bears the inscription "O'Donnell, 1844," in mammoth +letters. So plain and safe is the entrance to this harbor, which in +the narrowest part is some hundred yards wide,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> that a pilot is hardly +necessary, though foreign vessels generally take one. There is little +or no tide on this part of the coast, the variations never exceeding +two feet. No regular ebb and flow is therefore observable, but when +the land breeze rises there is a very slight tide-way setting out of +the harbor. No country in the world of the size of this island has so +many large and fine harbors. They number twenty-nine on its northern +side and twenty-eight on the southern. The well-defined water-line +along the yellow, rusty rocks of the coast shows the mark of ages, and +also that there has been no upheaval since the land took its present +shape. Where there are no regular harbors the shore is indented with +numerous deep channels forming inlets, safe only for native boatmen, +as the winding course of the blue waters covers myriads of sunken +rocks. On the southern side, opposite the Isle of Pines, there are +some beautiful reaches of beach, over which the gentle surf rolls +continuously with a murmur so soft as to seem like the whispered +secrets of the sea. Yet what frightful historic memories brood over +these deep waters of the Archipelago, where for nearly two centuries +floated and fought the ships of sea-robbers of every nationality, and +where the cunning but guilty slave-clippers, fresh from the coast of +Africa, loaded with kidnapped men and women, made their harbor! With +all their dreamy beauty, the tropics are full of sadness, both in +their past and present history.</p> + +<p>The occasional hurricanes, which prove so disastrous to the Bahamas +and other isles in the immediate vicinity of Cuba, rarely extend their +influence to its shores, but the bursts of fury which these usually +tranquil seas sometimes indulge in are not excelled in violence in the +worst typhoon regions.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +The nearest port of the island to this continent is Matanzas, lying +due south from Cape Sable, Florida, a distance of a hundred and thirty +miles. Havana is located some sixty miles west of Matanzas, and it is +here that the island divides the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, whose +coast-line, measuring six thousand miles, finds the outlet of its +commerce along the shore of Cuba, almost within range of the guns in +Moro Castle. Lying thus at our very door as it were, this island +stands like a sentinel, guarding the approaches of the Gulf of Mexico, +whose waters wash the shores of five of the United States, and by +virtue of the same position barring the entrance of the great river +which drains half the continent of North America. Nor does the +importance of the situation end here. Cuba keeps watch and ward over +our communication with California by way of the isthmus. The peculiar +formation of the southeastern shore of this continent, and the +prevalence of the trade-winds, with the oceanic current from east to +west, make the ocean passage skirting the shore of Cuba the natural +outlet for the commerce also of Venezuela, New Granada, Costa Rica, +and Nicaragua. It is not surprising, therefore, when we realize the +commanding position of the island, that so much of interest attaches +to its ultimate destiny.</p> + +<p>Cuba seems formed to become the very button on Fortune's cap. No +wonder that the Abbé Raynal pronounced it to be the boulevard of the +New World, or that the Spanish historian called it the fairest emerald +in the crown of Ferdinand and Isabella. Under any other government in +Christendom than that of Spain, the island would to-day have been one +vast smiling garden, for its natural advantages are absolutely +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +unequaled. To oppress and rob its inhabitants has been the unvarying +policy of the home government from first to last. The undisguised +system has been to extort from them every farthing possible in the way +of taxes. No legitimate business could sustain itself against the +enormous exactions of the Spanish rule. Coffee and cotton planting +have been absolutely driven out of the island by the taxes imposed +upon their production. In short, the mother country has carried her +system of oppression and despotism in Cuba to the utmost stretch of +human audacity.</p> + +<p>Probably no place has a finer or more desirable climate than has the +main portion of Cuba, with the clear atmosphere of the low latitudes, +no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and a season of endless summer. We +do not wonder that the Northern invalid turns instinctively towards so +inviting a clime, where Nature in all her moods is so regal. The +appearance of the sky at night is far brighter and more beautiful than +at the North. The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency +with the departure of the day. Sunset is remarkable for its soft +mellow beauty, all too brief to a New England eye accustomed to the +lingering brilliancy of our twilights. For more than half a century +the island has been the resort of invalids from colder climes in +search of health, especially those laboring under pulmonary +affections. Such have rarely failed to realize more or less benefit +from the mild and equable temperature. The climate so uniformly soft +and soothing, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so +delicious and abundant, give it a character akin to fairyland. Here +Nature seems ever in a tender, loving mood, the very opposite of her +cold temperament at the North.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +The best time to visit the island, for those who do so in search of +health, is from the beginning of January to the middle of May. It is +imprudent to remain in the cities of Cuba later than the latter +period, as the fever season then commences. The invalid will find that +very many physical comforts, and some things deemed imperative at +home, must be sacrificed here as quite unattainable: such, for +instance, as good beds, strict cleanliness, good milk, and sweet +butter. The climatic advantages must suffice for such deprivations. +During the greater portion of the year it is dry and hot, the rainy +season commencing in June and ending in September. The northeast +trade-winds blow over the island from March to October, and though it +is especially important to avoid all draughts in the tropics, still +one can always find a sufficiently cool and comfortable temperature +somewhere, when the trade-wind prevails. To persons in the early +stages of consumption this region holds forth great promise of relief; +the author can bear witness of remarkable benefit having been realized +in many instances. At the period of the year when New England invalids +most require to avoid the rigors of the prevailing east winds, namely, +in February, March, April, and early May, the island of Cuba is in the +glory of high summer, and enjoying the healthiest period of its annual +returns. When consumption originates in the island,—as was also found +to be the case at Nassau,—it runs its course to a fatal end with such +rapidity that the natives consider it to be a contagious disease. +Early in May the unacclimated would do well to leave, taking passage +up the Gulf to New Orleans, or across the Gulf Stream, which here runs +thirty-two miles in width,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> to Key West, Florida, thence by boat to +Tampa Bay, and by railroad to Sanford, and by the St. John's River to +St. Augustine, enjoying a brief stay at the latter places, where every +requisite convenience can be enjoyed. Jacksonville should not be +missed, and by coming north thus slowly and pleasantly, the change of +climate is not realized, and June weather will greet the returning +traveler with genial warmth.</p> + +<p>Owing to the proximity of the +northwestern part of Cuba to our own continent, the climate is +somewhat variable, and at a height of five hundred feet above the +level of the sea, ice is sometimes, though rarely formed; but, as has +already been said in these notes, snow never falls upon the island. At +long intervals Cuba has been visited by brief hailstorms, and persons +who tell you this will add, "but we never have known it in our day." +In the cities and near the swamps, the yellow fever, that scourge of +all hot climates, prevails from the middle of June to the last of +October; but in the interior of the island, where the visitor is at a +wholesome distance from humidity and stagnant water, it is no more +unhealthy than our own cities in summer. It is doubtful if Havana, +even in the fever season, is any more unhealthy than New Orleans at +the same period of the year. Fevers of different degrees of malignity +prevail from May to November, and occasionally throughout the year. +Among these the yellow fever is the most dangerous, and sooner or +later all resident foreigners seem to suffer from it, as a sort of +acclimation; once experienced, however, one is seldom attacked a +second time. In the ports yellow fever is often induced by +carelessness and exposure; excesses on the part of foreign sailors are +frequently the cause of its fatal attack<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> upon them. The thermometer +is never known to rise so high in Havana or Santiago, the opposite +extremes of the island, as it does sometimes in New York and Boston. +The average temperature is recorded as being 77°, maximum 89°, minimum +50° Fahrenheit. We have been thus elaborate as regards this matter +because it is of such general interest to all invalids who annually +seek an equable clime.</p> + +<p>The principal cities are Havana, with a population of nearly three +hundred thousand; Matanzas, with fifty thousand; Puerto Principe, +thirty thousand; Cienfuegos, twenty-five thousand; Trinidad, fourteen +thousand; San Salvador, ten thousand; Manzanillo, Cardenas, Nuevitas, +Sagua la Grande, and Mariel. Among its largest and finest harbors +those of Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Nipe, and Nuevitas are the best; +the bay of Matanzas is also large, but shallow. This city stands next +to Havana in population, but not in commercial importance. It is said +to be healthier than the capital, but it lacks those attractions of +life and gayety which are essential even to invalids to render them +contented. The streets are wide, and many of the Moorish +characteristics of Spanish cities, so common in both this island and +the European peninsula, are wanting here. It was built much later and +more under foreign direction than Havana. The secret of the superior +health of Matanzas over that of the capital is undoubtedly because of +its better drainage and general cleanliness.</p> + +<p>Located in one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city +extends up the picturesque and verdant hills by which the bay is +surrounded, in the form of an amphitheatre. The fortifications are of +rather a meagre character, and could not withstand a well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> organized +attack for half an hour. Modern improvements in the construction of +heavy guns and projectiles have rendered all the forts in Cuba of no +importance as a means of defense against a first-class invading fleet. +The custom house is the most prominent building which strikes the eye +on approaching the city by water; though built of stone, it is only +one story in height, and was erected at the commencement of the +present century. On the heights above the city the inhabitants have +planted their country seats, from whence the view of the widespreading +bay forms a delightful picture. The climate is thought to be +especially adapted for the cure of throat and lung diseases, and the +city is annually resorted to by those seeking relief from these +troubles, as also by those afflicted with neuralgia and rheumatism. +The first land made by southern-bound steamers from Boston and New +York is the Monte del Pan, or Bread Mountain, forming a lofty +background for the city. There are three large churches in Matanzas, a +well appointed and spacious theatre, a bull-ring, and cock-pits. +Statistics show that the custom-house receipts of the port reach about +two million dollars annually. There are two railroads connecting the +city with Havana, one of which runs also to the interior southeasterly +to Cienfuegos, Sagua, and Villa Clara, intersecting a rich +sugar-producing country, from whence it brings a large amount of +freight to the coast for shipment. On these Cuban roads one rides in +American-built cars, drawn by American engines, and often run by +American engineers. Railroads were in use in Cuba before they were +adopted in any other Spanish-speaking country, and there are now +nearly a thousand miles in active operation on the island.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +Matanzas is bounded on the north by the river Yumuri, and on the south +by that of San Juan. The town is built upon the site of a former +Indian village, known to the early discoverers by the name of Yucayo. +It is upon the whole a well-built city, containing some small public +squares and a pretty Plaza de Armas, like that of Havana, ornamented +with choice trees and flowers, with a statue of Ferdinand VII. in its +centre. It was in this square that Gabriel Concepcion de la Valdez, a +mulatto poet and patriot of Cuba, was shot by the soldiers of the +line. He was accused of complicity with the slave insurrection of +1844, when the blacks attempted to gain their freedom. At the time of +his execution the first volley fired by the troops failed to touch a +vital spot, and the brave victim, bleeding from many wounds, still +stood erect, facing his executioners. He then pointed to his heart, +and said in a calm clear voice, "Aim here!" The order was at once +obeyed, and the second volley sent the heroic man to that haven where +there is no distinction as to color. This martyr, of whom +comparatively little is known to the public, possessed all the true +elements of a poet. Many of his productions have been preserved in +print, and some were translated and republished in England a few years +since.</p> + +<p>The Plaza of Matanzas is small, smaller even than that of Cienfuegos, +but it presents within its circumscribed space a great variety of +tropical trees and flowers, over which stand, sentinel-like, a few +royal palms with their ashen-gray stems and concentric rings. The star +of Bethlehem, fifteen feet high, was here seen full of lovely scarlet +blossoms; the southern jasmine, yellow as gold, was in its glory; +mignonette, grown to a graceful tree of twenty feet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> in height, was +fragrant and full of blossoms, close beside the delicate vinca, decked +in white and red. Some broad-leaved bananas were thriving in the +Plaza, while creeping all over that tree and shrub combined, the +Spanish bayonet, were pink, purple, and white morning-glories, at once +so familiar and suggestive. Opposite the Plaza are several government +offices, and two or three very large, fine club-houses, remarkable for +the excellence of their appointments and the spaciousness of the +public rooms. Club life prevails in Matanzas, as usual at the expense +of domestic life, just as it does in Havana, being very much like +London in this respect. It is forbidden to discuss politics in these +clubs, the hours being occupied mostly over games of chance, such as +cards, dominoes, chess, and checkers. Gambling is as natural and +national in Cuba as in China. Many Chinese are seen about the streets +and stores of Matanzas, as, indeed, all over the island—poor fellows +who have survived their apprenticeship and are now free. They are +peaceful, do not drink spirits, work from morning until night, never +meddle with politics, and live on one half they can earn, so as to +save enough to return to their beloved native land. You may persuade +him to assent to any form of religion as a temporary duty, but John is +a heathen at heart, and a heathen he will die.</p> + +<p>The famous afternoon drive of Matanzas was formerly the San Carlos +Paseo. It has fine possibilities, and is lined and beautifully +ornamented with thrifty Indian laurels. It overlooks the spacious +harbor and outer bay, but is now utterly neglected and abandoned; even +the roadway is green with vegetation and gullied with deep hollows. It +is the coolest place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> in the city at the evening hour, but the people +have become so poor that there are hardly a dozen private vehicles +owned in the city, and, consequently, its famous drive is deserted. +Matanzas, like all the cities of Cuba, is under the shadow of +depressed business, the evidences of which meet one on all hands.</p> + +<p>The two objects of special interest to strangers who visit Matanzas +are, first, the valley of the Yumuri, which may be described briefly +as a narrow gorge four miles long, through which flows the river of +the same name. The view of this lovely valley will recall, to any one +who has visited Spain, the Vega of Granada. There are several +positions from which to obtain a good view of the valley, but that +enjoyed from the Chapel of Monserrate, on the hill just back of the +town, is nearest, and was most satisfactory to us. The view includes a +valley, peaceful, tropical, and verdant, embracing plantations, +groves, and farms, in the midst of which the river glides like a +silver thread through the verdure, and empties into the Bay of +Matanzas. The universal belief is that this vale was once a vast, deep +lake, walled across the present seaward opening of the valley, from +whence a fall may have existed as a natural overflow. Some fearful +convulsion of nature rent this bowl and precipitated the lake into the +ocean, leaving only the river's course.</p> + +<p>The second object of note which the visitor will not willingly miss is +a sight of the famous caves of Bellamar, situated about two leagues +from the city proper. It is customary to make this trip in a volante, +and it is quite the thing to ride, at least once, in this unique +vehicle, the only article ever invented<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> in Cuba. The road to the +caves is extremely rough, and this vehicle is best adapted to pass +over the irregularities. If there are only gentlemen of the party, go +on horseback. On entering the caves the visitor should throw off any +extra clothing that can conveniently be left behind, as it is very +warm within, and on coming out, unless one has an extra garment to put +on, too great a change of temperature will be realized. These singular +caves lead three hundred feet and more beneath the surface, and +present beauties to the eye incident to all such subterranean +formations. They were discovered accidentally, a few years since, by +some stone quarriers, who, on opening into them, imagined they had +broken the crust of the earth. In driving to the caves the Bay Street +road, through the city, should be taken, which forms one of the finest +thoroughfares of any Cuban town. The architecture of the dwellings is +that of combined Italian, Grecian, and Moorish, ornamented with +colonnades and verandas of stone and iron. Fine as the façades of +these houses are,—none above one story in height,—they present a +faded and forlorn aspect, a sort of dead-and-alive appearance, yet in +accordance with life and business, not only in Matanzas, but all over +the island. This one boulevard of Matanzas ends by the shore of the +bay, where the fine marine view will cause you to forget all other +impressions for the moment, but you will not tarry here. Turning +eastward you soon strike the road to the caves, and <i>such</i> a road—it +is like the bed of a dry mountain torrent.</p> + +<p>Persons visiting Matanzas must make up their minds to be content with +indifferent hotel accommodations. In fact there are no really good +hotels in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> Cuba; those which exist are poor and expensive. On the +inland routes away from the cities there are none, and the humble +hostelries, or posadas, as they are called, are so indifferent in +point of comforts as not to deserve the name of inns. As a rule, +invalids rarely go beyond the cities to remain over night. Brief and +pleasant sojourns may be made at Havana, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, and +Sagua la Grande, from whence excursions can be made by rail or +otherwise and return on the same day. Let us qualify these remarks, as +applied to the Hotel Louvre at Matanzas. There was a degree of +picturesqueness about this establishment which was not without its +attraction, and it was certainly the most cleanly public house in +which we found a temporary home while on the island. Its rooms +surrounded a bright clean court, or patio, planted with creeping +vines, palmettos, bananas, and some fragrant flowering shrubs. The +dining-room is virtually out of doors, being open on all sides, and +opposite the hotel is a small plaza with tropical trees, backed by an +old, musty church, whose bell had the true Spanish trick of giving +tongue at most inopportune moments. The rooms of the Louvre are quite +circumscribed as to space, and the partitions separating the +apartments do not reach to the ceiling, so that privacy, night or day, +is out of the question. The floors are all tiled in white marble, and +the attendance is courteous. One does not look for a choice bill of +fare in Cuba, and therefore will not be disappointed on that score. +You will be charged Fifth Avenue prices, however, if you do not get +Fifth Avenue accommodations. If you have learned in your travels to +observe closely, to study men as well as localities, to enjoy Nature in her +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +ever-varying moods, and to delight in luxurious fruits, +flowers, and vegetation, you will find quite enough to occupy and +amuse the mind, and make you forget altogether the grosser senses of +appetite.</p> + +<p>Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of Cuba, and +is located well inland. The trade of the place, from the want of water +carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the number of +its inhabitants, which aggregates nearly thirty-one thousand. The +product of the neighborhood, to find means of export, must first make +its way twelve and a half leagues to Nuevitas, from whence, in return, +it receives its foreign supplies. The two places are now, however, +connected by a railroad. Puerto Principe is about one hundred and +fifty leagues from Havana. Its original location, as founded by +Velasquez in 1514, was at Nuevitas, but the inhabitants, when the +place was feeble in numbers, were forced to remove from the coast to +avoid the fierce incursions of the pirates, as did the people of +Trinidad, who removed from the harbor of Casilda.</p> + +<p>Cardenas is situated a hundred and twenty miles from Havana on the +north coast, and is the youngest town of note in Cuba, having been +founded so late as 1827. It has a population of between four and five +thousand. Its prosperity is mostly owing to the great fertility of the +land by which it is surrounded. It is called the American city, +because of the large number of Americans doing business here, and also +because the English language is so universally spoken by the people +who reside in the place. The Plaza contains an excellent marble statue +of Columbus, and is tastefully ornamented with tropical verdure. In +the harbor of Cardenas is seen one of those curious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> springs of fresh +water which bubble up beneath the salt sea. The city is the centre of +a sugar-producing district, and a considerable portion of the sugar +crop of the vicinity of Havana is also shipped from this port to +America. It is connected with both the metropolis and Matanzas by +rail, and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary +time for doing so.</p> + +<p>Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island, +are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of +it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable +timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might, +with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone, +which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of +the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture +are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never +be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have +not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are +passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the +Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the +purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well +as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything +practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +City of Havana. — First Impressions. — The Harbor. — +Institutions. — Lack of Educational Facilities. — Cuban +Women. — Street Etiquette. — Architecture. — Domestic +Arrangements. — Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. — +Public Vehicles. — Uncleanliness of the Streets. — Spanish +or African! — The Church Bells. — Home-Keeping Habits of +Ladies. — Their Patriotism. — Personal Characteristics. — +Low Ebb of Social Life. — Priestcraft. — Female Virtue. — +Domestic Ties. — A Festive Population. — Cosmetics. — Sea-Bathing. +</div> + +<p>Havana is a thoroughly representative city,—Cuban and nothing else. +Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being +the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been +reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with +its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall +sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the +harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the +Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city +side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind +the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of +Spain,—the banner of blood and gold. So many and strong +fortifications show how important the home government regard the +place.</p> + +<p>The harbor or bay is shaped like one's outspread hand, with the wrist +for an entrance, and is populous with the ships of all nations. It +presents at all times<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> a scene of great maritime activity. Besides the +national ships of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers +from Europe and America are coming and going daily, also coasting +steamers from the eastern and southern shores of the island, added to +regular lines for Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea. The +large ferry steamers plying constantly between the city and the Regla +shore, the fleet of little sailing boats, foreign yachts, and +rowboats, glancing in the burning sunlight, create a scene of great +maritime interest.</p> + +<p>The city presents a large extent of public buildings, cathedrals, +antique and venerable churches. It has been declared in its prosperity +to be the richest place for its number of square miles in the world, +but this cannot be said of it at the present time. There is nothing +grand in its appearance as one enters the harbor and comes to anchor, +though Baron Humboldt pronounced it the gayest and most picturesque +sight in America. Its multitude of churches, domes, and steeples are +not architecturally remarkable, and are dominated by the colossal +prison near the shore. This immense quadrangular edifice flanks the +Punta, and is designed to contain five thousand prisoners at a time. +The low hills which make up the distant background are not +sufficiently high to add much to the general effect. The few palm +trees which catch the eye here and there give an Oriental aspect to +the scene, quite in harmony with the atmospheric tone of intense +sunshine. Unlike Santiago or Matanzas, neither the city nor its +immediate environs is elevated, so that the whole impression is that +of flatness, requiring some strength of background to form a complete +picture. The martial appearance of the Moro and the Cabanas, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +bristling with cannon, is the most vivid effect of the scene, taken as +a whole. It might be a portion of continental Spain broken away from +European moorings, and floated hither to find anchorage in the +Caribbean Sea. One is also reminded of Malta, in the farther +Mediterranean, and yet the city of Valetta, bright, sunny, and +elevated, is quite unlike Havana, though Fortress St. Angelo overlooks +and guards the place as the Moro does this tropical harbor, and Cuba +is the Italy of America.</p> + +<p>The waters of the harbor, admittedly one of the finest in the world, +are most of the time extremely dirty. Many years ago a canal was +commenced which was designed to create a flowage calculated to keep +the harbor clear of the constantly accumulating filth, but it was +never finished, and there remains an evidence of Spanish inefficiency, +while the harbor continues to be a vast cesspool. It would be supposed +that in a fever-haunted region, great attention would be bestowed upon +the matter of drainage, but this is not the case in Havana, or other +cities of the island. Most of the effort made in this direction is +surface drainage, the liquid thus exposed quickly evaporating in the +hot sunshine, or being partially absorbed by the soil over which it +passes.</p> + +<p>Havana contains numerous institutions of learning: a Royal University, +founded in 1733, a medical and law school, and chairs of all the +natural sciences. In spite of their liberal purposes and capabilities, +however, there is a blight hanging over them. Pupils enlist cautiously +and reluctantly. Among other schools there is a Royal Seminary for +girls, scarcely more than a name, a free school of sculpture and +painting, and a mercantile school, with a few private institutions of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +learning. There is a fairly good museum of natural history, and just +outside the city a botanical garden. Still the means of education are +very limited in Cuba, an evidence of which is the fact that so many of +her youth of both sexes are sent to this country for educational +purposes. An order was at one time issued by the government +prohibiting this, but its arbitrary nature was so very outrageous, +even for a Spanish government, that it was permitted to become a dead +letter. What are called free schools, as we use the term, are not +known in the island; the facilities for obtaining even the simplest +education are very poor. Boys and girls, so far as any attempt is made +to educate them, are taught separately, and really under the eye of +the Church. Priests and nuns are the agents, the former notoriously +making a cloak of their profession for vile and selfish purposes. If +we speak decidedly upon this subject, yet we do so with less emphasis +than do the Cubans. The girls are taught embroidery and etiquette, +considered to be the chief and about the only things necessary for +them to know. These young girls are women at the age of thirteen or +fourteen, and frequently mothers of families before they are twenty. +Of course they fade early. In domestic life the husband is literally +lord and master, the wife, ostensibly at least, is all obedience. +There is no woman's rights association on the island, nor even a +Dorcas society. While young and unmarried, the ladies are strict +adherents to all the conventionalities of Spanish etiquette, which is +of the most exacting character, but after marriage the sex is perhaps +as French as the Parisians, and as gay as the Viennese, under the +stimulus of fast and fashionable society.</p> + +<p>The reason of the edict issued by the government<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> forbidding parents +to send their children to this country for educational purposes was +obvious. The young Cubans during their residence here imbibed liberal +ideas as to our republican form of government, which they freely +promulgated and advocated on their return to their native island. Even +those who had been educated in France or England, and they were +numerous, readily sympathized with the pupils returned from America, +and became a dangerous element. Long before the first Lopez +expedition, these sons of planters and rich merchants had formed +themselves into a secret society, with the avowed purpose of freeing +Cuba sooner or later from the Spanish yoke.</p> + +<p>The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel, +after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall, +though the population has long since extended its dwellings and +business structures far into what was, half a century since, the +suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and +decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved +or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of +Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental +Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are +no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and +in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides +in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of +respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless +she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit, +etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes +seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a +portable seat, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble +floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette +says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle, +and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule.</p> + +<p>The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving +them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone +so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into +suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the +atmosphere. The façades of the town houses are nearly always covered +with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue, +harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will +strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system +observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy +as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon +the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors +give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the +broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two +full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad +verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house, +some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors +are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'être; namely, to absorb +the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of +the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of +vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object +stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities +which will strike the stranger.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open +square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is +attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room, +chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family +vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common +by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second +story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family +chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends +round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems, +it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with +it.</p> + +<p>With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in +far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to look about for the +Alhambra. An air of rude grandeur reigns over these houses, the +architecture being Gothic and Saracenic. In the more ancient portions +of the town little picturesque balconies of iron or wood jut out from +the second-story windows, where the houses rise to the dignity of two +stories. From these balconies hang little naked children, like small +performers upon the trapeze, until the passer-by fears for their +lives. The travel in the narrow streets is regulated by law, and so +divided that only certain ones are used for vehicles going north, and +others for those traveling south. Thus, vehicles bound into the city +from the Paseo go by the way of Obispo Street, but must return by +O'Riley Street, so that no two ever meet in these narrow +thoroughfares,—a plan which might be advantageously adopted +elsewhere.</p> + +<p>The rooms of the houses are lofty and the floors<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> stuccoed or tiled in +marble, while the walls and ceilings are frequently ornamented in +fresco, the excellence of the workmanship varying in accordance with +the owner's means. The most striking peculiarity of the town-house in +Cuba is the precaution taken to render it safe against sudden attack. +Every man's house is literally his castle here, each accessible window +being secured with stout iron bars, reaching from the top to the +bottom, while bullet-proof doors bar the entrance,—the whole +seriously suggestive of jails and lunatic asylums. No carpets are used +even in the parlors, though a long rug is sometimes placed between the +inevitable double row of rocking-chairs. The best floors are laid in +white marble and jasper. The great heat of the climate renders even +wooden floors quite insupportable. The visitor is apt to find his bed +rather unsatisfactory, it being formed by stretching a coarse canvas +upon a framework, with an upper and under sheet. Mattresses are not +used by the natives, who reject them as being too warm to sleep upon, +but the liberality evinced in the shape of mosquito netting is as +commendable as it is necessary.</p> + +<p>The public vehicle called a victoria is a sort of four-wheeled calash, +and it has entirely superseded the volante for city use. There are +thousands of them about the town, forming a collection of wretchedly +wornout carriages, drawn by horses in a like condition. The drivers +occupy an elevated seat, and are composed equally of whites and +negroes. The charge for a passage from point to point within the city +is forty cents in Cuban paper money, equal to sixteen cents of our +currency; three times that sum is charged if engaged for the hour. The +streets are in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> a very bad condition and sadly need repairing. The +roads leading out to the suburbs in every direction are full of deep +holes, and are badly gullied by the heavy rains. The streets, even +about the paseos, are so impregnated with filth, here and there, as to +be sickening to the senses of the passer-by. Once in three or four +weeks somebody is awakened to the exigency of the situation, and a +gang of men is put to work to cleanse the principal thoroughfares, but +this serves only a temporary purpose. We were told that the reason for +this neglect was that no one was regularly paid for work; even the +police had not received any pay for seven months, and many refused to +serve longer. The soldiery had not been paid their small stipend for +nearly a year, but enlisted men sent out from Spain, forming the army, +are more easily kept together and more amenable to discipline than any +civil body of officials could be. "With everybody and everything so +enormously taxed," we ventured to suggest to our informants, "there +should be no lack of pecuniary means wherewith to carry on all +departments of the government. Pray what becomes of all this money?" +The reply was, "Who can say?" with a significant shrug of the +shoulders. With all the exactions of the officials, and with the +collection of nearly thirty millions of dollars annually, but a moiety +finds its way into the national treasury. Peculation is reduced to a +science, and is practiced from the highest to the lowest official sent +out by the home government. "Spain has squeezed the orange nearly +dry," said a distinguished Cuban to us in Matanzas, "and a collapse is +inevitable. We are anxiously waiting to see it come; any change would +be for the better. We were long threatened<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> with a war of races, if we +did not sustain Spanish rule in the island. That is, if we were not +loyal to the Madrid authorities, the slaves should be freed to prey +upon us. Blood would flow like water. The incendiary torch would be +placed in the hands of the negroes, and they should be incited to +burn, steal, and ravish! Cuba should be Spanish or African. There was +a time when this threat had great force, and its execution was indeed +to be dreaded; but that time is past, and no such fear now exists. The +slaves are being gradually freed, and are amalgamating with the rest +of the populace. The slow liberation of the blacks has accustomed them +to freedom, and any organized outrage from that source has ceased to +be feared."</p> + +<p>Why all the bells in Havana should be rung furiously and continuously +every morning about daylight, one cannot exactly understand. There +does not seem to be any concert of action in this awful conspiracy +against sleep; but the tumult thus brought about would certainly seem +to be sufficient to "wake the isle from its propriety." From every +square with its church, and every church with its towers, this +brazen-tongued clamor is relentlessly poured forth. In most Christian +lands one good bell is all-sufficient for a church steeple, but here +they have them in the plural, and all striving to excel each other at +the same moment. Of course no one is able to sleep amid such an +outburst of noise, or within the radius of a league. Bells and +mosquitoes are two of the prevailing nuisances of this thrice-sunny +city. Nor must we forget to add to these aggravations the ceaseless, +triumphant crowing of the game-cocks, the noisiest and most boastful +of birds, large numbers of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> which are kept by the citizens purely for +gambling purposes in the cock-pit. Besides these "professional" birds, +every nook and corner is filled with fowls kept for brooding purposes, +each bird family with its crower.</p> + +<p>We have said that the Cuban ladies rarely stir abroad except in a +vehicle, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are certainly +good housekeepers in this respect. While our ladies are busy sweeping +the city sidewalks with their trailing dresses, these wisely leave +that business to the gangs of criminals detailed from prison to fill +that office, with their limbs chained and a heavy ball attached to +preserve their equilibrium,—though we should qualify this remark by +saying that these condemned men, once so common upon the streets and +highways, were not seen during our late visit to Havana. It is, +perhaps, owing to the home-keeping habits of the ladies that the feet +of the Cuban señoritas are such marvels of smallness and delicacy, +seemingly made rather for ornament than for use. You catch a glimpse +of them as they step into their victorias, and perceive that they are +daintily shod in French slippers, the soles of which are scarcely more +substantial than brown paper. Their feet are made for ornament and for +dancing. Though they possess a roundness of form that leaves nothing +to be desired in symmetry of figure, still they are light as a +sylph,—so buoyant, clad in muslin and lace, that it would seem as if +a breeze might waft them away like a summer cloud. Passionately fond +of dancing, they tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their worship +of Terpsichore, stimulated by those Cuban airs which are at once so +sweet and so brilliant.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +There is a striking and endearing charm about the Cuban ladies, their +every motion being replete with a native grace. Every limb is elastic +and supple. Their voices are sweet and low, while the subdued tone of +their complexions is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black +eyes, that alternately swim in melting lustre, and sparkle in +expressive glances. If their comeliness matures, like the fruits of +their native clime, early and rapidly, it is sad to know that it also +fades prematurely. One looks in vain for that serene loveliness +combined with age which so frequently challenges our admiration at the +North. Their costume is never ostentatious, though often costly, and +sometimes a little too mixed or variegated when seen in public. At +home, however, nothing of this sort is observed. There the dress is +usually composed of the most delicate muslin, the finest linen, and +richest silks. We must admit that one rarely sees elsewhere such +contrasts in colors upon the person of the fair sex as are at times +encountered upon the Paseo. It would drive a French modiste wild to +see the proprieties so outraged. It requires all the proverbial beauty +of these señoras and señoritas to carry off respectably such +combinations as scarlet and yellow, blue and purple, orange and green; +but they do it by sheer force of their beautiful eyes and finely +rounded figures. It must be acknowledged that the element of native +refinement is too often wanting, and that the whole exhibition of the +sex is just a little prononcée. They have no intellectual resort, but +lead a life of decided ease and pleasure much too closely bordering +upon the sensuous, their forced idleness being in itself an incentive +to immorality and intrigue. The indifferent <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>work they perform is +light and simple; a little sewing and embroidery, followed by the +siesta, divides the hours of the day. Those who can afford to keep +their victorias wait until nearly sunset for a drive, and then go to +respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the caballeros on the +paseos; afterwards to the Parque de Isabella II., to listen to the +military band, and then, perhaps, to join in the mazy dance. That +these ladies are capable of deep feeling and practical sympathy on +such occasions as would naturally draw these qualities forth, we know +by experience. When the patriot forces were poorly armed, with but +scant material, and ammunition was short, these fair patriots gave +freely of their most valuable jewels as a contribution to the cause of +liberty.</p> + +<p>A sad instance illustrative of this fact was told us by a resident of +Havana. The young ladies and matrons of a certain circle in the city, +at the commencement of the year 1872, had put their diamonds and +precious stones together to realize money for forwarding supplies to +the insurgents under Cespedes, who was then operating in the vicinity +of Santiago. The jewels were secretly intrusted to a brother of one of +the ladies, a young man who had just reached the age of twenty-two. +His part of the business was the most difficult to perform, but he +finally succeeded in realizing over four thousand dollars in gold for +the gems intrusted to him. Fortunately the money was at once forwarded +to the patriot leader through a safe and reliable channel. Hardly had +the business been accomplished to the satisfaction of all concerned +when the young Cuban was secretly denounced to the Governor-General as +a suspected person. The settings and jewels had all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> been disposed of +so as to be beyond recognition, and it is not known to this day how +the brother's complicity with his sisters and their friends was +divulged, but presumedly it was through the Jew pawnbrokers. The +brother was arrested and thrown into Moro Castle, where he was +subjected to the closest examination to find out his accomplices. +Loyal and affectionate, he could not be made to speak. He was finally +offered his freedom and permission to leave the island if he would +divulge all. The government reasoned that if they could make a witness +of him they would succeed in serving their own interest best, as by +sacrificing one prisoner they might gain knowledge of many disaffected +people whom they did not even suspect of disloyalty. One of the +sisters of the prisoner determined to assume the guilt, and declare +that her brother was the unknowing agent of her purpose; but when at +last satisfied that this would not free him, she reluctantly gave up +the design. The young Cuban maintained his silence. No publicity was +given to the matter. He was brought before a military tribunal—so +much is known. The sentence never publicly transpired. Like most +political prisoners who pass within the walls of Moro Castle, his fate +remains a secret.</p> + +<p>There are two sides to every picture; even light casts its shadow, and +we feel constrained to speak plainly. Social life in the island is +certainly at a very low ebb, and unblushing licentiousness prevails. +That there are many and noble exceptions only renders the opposite +fact the more prominent. This immorality is more particularly among +the home Spaniards, whose purpose it is to remain here long enough to +gain a certain amount of money, and then to return<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> to the mother +country to enjoy it. They look upon all associations contracted here +as of a temporary character, and the matter of morality does not +affect them in the least. Domestic comforts are few, and, as we have +intimated, literature is hardly recognized. The almost entire absence +of books or reading matter of any sort is remarkable. A few daily and +weekly newspapers, under rigid censorship, supply all the taste for +letters. Married women seem to sink far below their husbands in +influence. The domestic affections are not cultivated; in short, home +to the average Cuban is only a place to sleep,—not of peaceful +enjoyment. His meals are rarely taken with his family, but all spare +hours are absorbed at the club. Domestic infidelity is prevalent, and +female virtue but little esteemed. Priest-craft and king-craft have +been the curse of both Spain and Cuba. Here, as in Italy, the +outrageous and thinly-disguised immorality of the priesthood poisons +many an otherwise unpolluted fount, and thus all classes are liable to +infection. Popery and slavery are both largely to be charged with the +low condition of morals, though the influence of the former has of +late years been much curtailed, both in Spain and in Cuba. The young +women are the slaves of local customs, as already intimated, and +cannot go abroad even to church without a duenna,—a fact which in +itself proves the debased standard of morals. The men appear to have +no religion at all, but the women very generally attend early mass and +go periodically to confessional. No one seems to think it strange for +a white man to have a colony of mulatto children, even though he be +also the father of a white family! Many have only the mulatto family, and seem +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +content. These are generally the home Spaniards, already +spoken of, and when their fortunes are secured they recklessly sever +all local ties and responsibilities and return to Spain. This is no +new thing, as there are many families in Cuba of fair position +socially, and often of considerable wealth, whose members are by the +right of classification quadroons. Miscegenation has greatly +complicated social matters, and in half a century, more or less, it +may produce a distinctive class, who will be better able to assert and +sustain their rights than those who have preceded them.</p> + +<p>The class of home Spaniards who have emigrated to Cuba has always been +of a questionable character. The description of them by Cervantes in +his time will apply in our own day with equal force. He says: "The +island is the refuge of the profligates of Spain, a sanctuary for +homicides, a skulking-place for gamblers and sharpers, and a +receptacle for women of free manners,—a place of delusion to many, of +amelioration to few."</p> + +<p>One peculiarity which is sure to strike the stranger unpleasantly, and +to which allusion has incidentally been made, whether in public or +private houses, in the stores or in the streets, is that the colored +children of both sexes, under eight and nine years of age, are +permitted to go about in a state of nudity. In the country, among the +Montero class, this custom also extends to the white children. The +colored men who labor in the streets and on the wharves wear only a +short pair of linen pantaloons, displaying a muscular development +which any white man might envy. The remarkable contrast in the +powerful frames of these dusky Africans and the puny Asiatic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +coolies is extraordinary. On the plantations and small farms the slaves wear +but one garment, just sufficient for decency. The great heat when +exposed to the sun is the reason, probably, rather than any economical +idea.</p> + +<p>The populace of Havana is eminently a festive one. Men luxuriate in +the café, or spend their evenings in worse places. A brief period of +the morning only is given to business, the rest of the day and night +to melting lassitude, smoking, and luxurious ease. Evidences of +satiety, languor, and dullness, the weakened capacity for enjoyment, +are sadly conspicuous, the inevitable sequence of indolence and vice. +The arts and sciences seldom disturb the thoughts of such people. +Here, as in many European cities, Lazarus and Dives elbow each other, +and an Oriental confusion of quarters prevails. The pretentious +town-house is side by side with the humble quarters of the artisan, or +even the negro hut, about which swarm the naked juveniles of color, a +half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of +this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon +some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but +being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to +some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong +contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements +of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored +where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain +seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is +the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms +most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though +there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people +of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most +hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance +of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were +told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and +hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was +obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true.</p> + +<p>Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to +improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us +state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found +where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta +fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh +from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by +much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It +is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of, +refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of +the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The +island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less +similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs. +Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative +properties.</p> + +<p>In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets +at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores, +workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the +master in his shirt-sleeves, surrounded by his family, clerks, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +and all white employees, sitting in full sight at breakfast, generally in +the business room itself. The midday siesta, an hour later, if not a +necessity in this climate, is a universal custom. The shopkeeper, even +as he sits on duty, drops his head upon his arm and sleeps for an +hour, more or less. The negro and his master both succumb to the same +influence, catching their forty winks, while the ladies, if not +reclining, "lose themselves" with heads resting against the backs of +the universal rocking-chairs. One interior seen by the passer-by is as +like another as two peas. A Cuban's idea of a well-furnished +sitting-room is fully met by a dozen cane-bottom rocking-chairs, and a +few poor chromos on the walls. These rocking-chairs are ranged in two +even lines, reaching from the window to the rear of the room, with a +narrow woollen mat between them on the marble floor, each chair being +conspicuously flanked by a cuspidor. This parlor arrangement is so +nearly universal as to be absolutely ludicrous.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Sabbath Scenes in Havana. — Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. +— City Squares and their Ornamentation. — The Cathedral. — +Tomb of Columbus. — Plaza de Armas. — Out-Door Concerts. — +Habitués of Paseo de Isabella. — Superbly Appointed Cafés. +— Gambling. — Lottery Tickets. — Fast Life. — Masquerade +Balls. — Carnival Days. — The Famous Tacon Theatre. — The +Havana Casino. — Public Statues. — Beauties of the +Governor's Garden. — The Alameda. — The Old Bell-Ringer. — +Military Mass. +</div> + +<p>On no other occasion is the difference between the manners of a +Protestant and Catholic community so strongly marked as on the +Sabbath. In the former, a sober seriousness stamps the deportment of +the people, even when they are not engaged in devotional exercises; in +the latter, worldly pleasures and religious forms are pursued, as it +were, at the same time, or follow each other in incongruous +succession. We would not have the day made tedious, and it can only be +so to triflers; to the true Christian it will ever be characterized by +thoughtfulness and repose. The Parisian flies from the church to the +railway station to join some picnic excursion, or to assist at the +race-course, or he passes with a careless levity from St. Geneviève to +the dance booths of the Champs Elysées. In New Orleans, the Creole who +has just bent his knee before the altar repairs to the theatre to pass +the evening; and the Cuban goes from the absolution of the priest to +the hurly-burly of the bull-ring or the cock-pit.</p> + +<p>The influence of fifteen minutes in the church, if +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +salutary, would seem to be quickly dissipated by the attraction of the gaming-table +and the masked ball. Even the Sunday ceremonial of the Church is a +pageant: the splendid robes of the officiating priest, changed in the +course of the service like the costume of actors in a drama; the +music, to Protestant ears operatic and exciting; the clouds of incense +scattering their intoxicating perfumes; the chanting in a strange +tongue, unknown to the majority of the worshipers,—all tend to give +the Roman Catholic services a carnival character. Far be it from us, +however, to charge these congregations with an undue levity, or a lack +of sincerity. Many a lovely Creole kneels upon the marble floor +entirely estranged from the brilliant groups around her, and +apparently unconscious for the time of the admiration she excites. +There are many, no doubt, who look beyond the glittering symbols to +the great truths of the Being whom they are intended to typify. The +impression made by the Sabbath ceremonials of the Church strikes us as +evanescent, more pleasing to the fancy than informing to the +understanding. Still, if the Sabbath in Catholic countries is not +wholly devoted to religious observances, neither are the week days +wholly absorbed by business and by careless pleasures. The churches +are always open, silently but eloquently inviting to devotion, and it +is much to be able to step aside at any moment from the temptations, +business, and cares of life into an atmosphere of seclusion and +religion. The solemn quiet of an old cathedral on a week day is +impressive from its very contrast to the tumult outside. Within its +venerable walls the light seems chastened, as it falls through stained +panes and paints the images of Christian saints and martyrs on +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +the pavement of the aisles. A half unwilling reverence is apt to stimulate +us on such an occasion, however skeptical we may be.</p> + +<p>The Sabbath in Havana breaks upon the citizens amid the ringing of +bells, the firing of cannon from the forts, the noise of trumpets, and +the roll of the drum. It is no day of physical rest here, and the +mechanical trades are uninterrupted. It is the chosen period for the +military reviews, the masked ball, and the bull-fight. The stores are +open as usual, the same cries are heard on the streets, and the +lottery tickets are vended on every corner. The individuals who devote +themselves to this business are in numbers like an army with banners. +They rend the air with their cries, promising good luck to all +purchasers, while they flourish their scissors with one hand, and +thrust the sheet of printed numbers in your face with the other, ready +to cut any desired ticket or portion of a ticket. The day proves +equally propitious for the omnipresent organ-grinder and his +ludicrously-dressed little monkey, à la Napoleon; the Chinese peddler; +the orange and banana dealer; and the universal cigarette purveyor. +Still, the rough Montero from the country, with his long line of +loaded mules or ponies, respectfully raises his broad Panama with one +hand while he makes the sign of the cross with the other as he passes +the church door. The churches of Havana look very old and shabby +compared with those of peninsular Spain, where the splendor of church +ornamentation reaches its acme.</p> + +<p>In and about the commercial part of the town, the out-door gambler +forms a conspicuous feature of the Sabbath, seated upon a cloth spread +upon the ground, and armed with cards, dice, cups, and other instruments. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +With voluble tongue and expressive pantomime urging the +passer-by to try his luck, he meets with varying success. Many who are +drawn into the net are adroitly permitted to win a little, and +afterwards to lose much. Sailors on shore for a day's liberty are +profitable game for these thimble-riggers, as they are called with us. +Both Spaniards and Creoles patronize them, and occasionally a negro +tries his luck with a trifle. In open squares, or at the intersection +of several streets, one sometimes sees a carpet spread upon the +ground, upon which an athlete accompanied by a couple of expert boys, +dressed in high-colored tights ornamented with spangles, diverts the +throng by exhibiting gymnastics. At the close of the performance, a +young girl in a fancy dress and with long, flowing hair passes among +the spectators and gathers a few shillings. Not far away is observed +Punch and Judy in the height of a successful quarrel to the music of a +harp and a violin. The automatic contestants pound and pommel each +other after the conventional fashion.</p> + +<p>The city abounds in well-arranged squares, often ornamented by the +royal palm, always a figure of majesty and beauty, with here and there +a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel, +which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is +strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same +family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may +be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the +tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either +extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green, +contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> slate color. +It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a +bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as +though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts +great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found +dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups, +or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the +eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long +avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee +plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue.</p> + +<p>The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept +square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the +great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one +corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot +where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated +on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while. +The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime, +though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his +death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas +fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous +old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was +sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age +was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was +erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their +shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it +is opened but once a year to the public,—on the 16th of November, +which is the feast day of San Cristobal, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>when mass is celebrated in +honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of +Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings.</p> + +<p>This square is divided into neatly kept paths, and planted with +fragrant flowers, conspicuous among which were observed the white and +red camellias, while a grateful air of coolness was diffused by the +playing of a fountain into a broad basin, ornamented by a marble +statue of Ferdinand VII. The Creoles are passionately fond of music, +and this park used to be the headquarters of all out-door concerts. +Their favorite airs are waltzes and native dances, with not a little +of the Offenbach spirit in them. The guitar is the favorite domestic +musical instrument here, as in peninsular Spain, and both sexes are as +a rule clever performers upon it. Evening music in the open air is +always attractive, but nowhere is its influence more keenly felt than +under the mellow effulgence of tropical nights. Nowhere can we +conceive of a musical performance listened to with more relish and +appreciation than in the Plaza de Armas or the Parque de Isabella in +Havana. The latter place on the occasion of the concerts is the resort +of all classes. Here friends meet, flirtations are carried on, toilets +are displayed, and lovers woo. Even the humble classes are seen in +large numbers quietly strolling on the outer portions of the Plaza +listening to the fine performances of the band, and quietly enjoying +the music, "tamed and led by this enchantress still." The balmy nature +of the climate permits the ladies to dispense with shawls or wraps of +any sort; bonnets they very seldom wear, so that they sit in their +vehicles, or alighting appropriate the chairs arranged for the purpose +lining the broad central path, and thus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> appear in full evening dress, +bare arms, and necks supplemented by most elaborate coiffures. Even +the black lace mantilla, so commonly thrown over the head and +shoulders in the cities of Spain, is discarded of an evening on the +Plaza de Isabella.</p> + +<p>It was very amusing to sit here near the marble statue of the ex-queen +(which is, by the way, a wonderful likeness of Queen Victoria), where +the band, composed of sixty instrumental performers, discoursed +admirable music, and to observe young Cuba abroad, represented by boys +and girls of ten and twelve years dressed like young ladies and +gentlemen, sauntering arm in arm through the broad paths. These +children attend balls given by grown-up people, and are painted and +bedizened and decked out like their elders,—a singular fashion in +Cuban cities. It is true they not infrequently fall asleep on such +occasions in rocking-chairs and in odd corners, overcome by fatigue, +as the hours of festivity creep on towards the morning. Childhood is +ignored. Youth of a dozen years is introduced to the habits of people +thrice that age. We were sadly told, by one who is himself a parent, +that most children in the island but twelve years of age know the +delicate relations of the sexes as well as they would ever know them. +What else could be expected in an atmosphere so wretchedly immoral? +Small boys dressed in stovepipe hats and swallow-tail coats, and +little misses in long dresses with low necks look like mountebanks.</p> + +<p>Opposite the Plaza de Isabella, on the Tacon Theatre side of the +square, are situated the most fashionable cafés and restaurants of the +capital, where "life" commences at nine o'clock in the evening and +rages fast and furious until the small hours of the morning. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +In these resorts, which are one blaze of light, every gas-burner reflected by +dozens of mirrors, the marble tables are all occupied by vivacious +patrons. Some are playing dominoes, some few are engaged at games of +chess, others are busy over checkers or cards, and all are gambling. +Even the lookers-on at the games freely stake their money on the +fortunes of the several players. The whole scene is one of noise and +confusion, fifty tongues giving voice at the same time. If a Spaniard +or Creole loses a dollar he gesticulates and argues about it as though +thousands were involved in the issue. These people represent all +classes. Some are in their shirt-sleeves, some roughly clothed, some +in full evening dress; Spaniards, Creoles, mulattoes, and occasionally +an unmistakable European. They drink often, but not strong liquors, +and one is surprised to hear coffee so often called for in place of +wine. The games are kept up until two or three o'clock in the morning. +Loitering about the doors beggars always form the shadow of the scene; +some lame, some blind, mostly negroes and coolies; now and then there +is seen among them an intelligent but sad white face, which looks +rather than utters its appeal. These are often the recipients of the +successful gambler's bounty. Now and again a lottery-ticket vender +comes in and makes the circuit of the tables, always disposing of more +or less chances, sometimes selling a whole ticket, price one doubloon, +or seventeen dollars. As we watch the scene a daintily dressed youth +with shining beaver lounges in, accompanied by one of the demi-monde +gayly dressed and sparkling with jewelry which betrays her want of +modesty. She is of the true Andalusian type, olive complexion, +coal-black hair with eyes to match, and long dark lashes; petite +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +in figure and youthful, but aged in experience. Bonnetless, her luxuriant +hair is set high upon her head, held by a square tortoise-shell comb, +and carelessly thrown off her forehead with a parting on one side. Be +sure some sad story underlies her career. She is of just that gypsy +cast that painters love to delineate. They sit down at a side table +and order ices, cake, and champagne. These are consumed amid jests and +laughter, the spurious champagne, at a fabulous cost, is drunk +merrily, the hours creep on, and the couple retire to give place to +others, after having furnished a picture of the fast, false life of +these brilliant, but dissipated haunts.</p> + +<p>Some of these cafés are more exclusive than others, where respectable +ladies and gentlemen can retire after the band has ceased its +performance, and enjoy the cooling influence of an ice. The Louvre, +just opposite the Plaza de Isabella and adjoining the Tacon Theatre, +is one of such. These establishments couple with their current evening +business that of the manufacture of choice preserves for domestic use +and also for export, the fruits of the island supplying the basis for +nearly a hundred varieties of fruit preserves, which find large sales +in our Northern cities and in Europe.</p> + +<p>In carnival week these cafés do an immense business; it is the harvest +of their year. People who can hardly afford three meals a day pinch +themselves and suffer much self-denial that they may have money to +spend in carnival week. The public masquerade balls, which then take +place, allure all classes. The celebrations of the occasion culminate +in a grand public masquerade ball given in the Tacon Theatre. The +floor of the parquette is temporarily raised to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> level with the +boxes and the stage, the entire floor or lower part of the house being +converted into a grand ball-room. The boxes and galleries are thrown +open free to the public. The music, furnished by two military bands, +alternating in their performance, is kept up until broad daylight, +while the participants come and go as they please. A little after +midnight an organization called the comparzas comes upon the scene. It +is composed of men, boys, and women, all masked, who have practiced +for the occasion some emblematic dance to perform for their own and +the public amusement. The other dancers give way and the new-comers +perform, in harlequin fashion, their allotted parts. Towards morning a +large paper globe is suspended from the ceiling and lowered to within +a certain height from the floor. Blindfolded volunteers of both sexes, +furnished with sticks, are permitted to walk towards and try to hit +it. Scores fail, others just graze the globe of paper, all amid loud +laughter from the spectators. Finally some one hits the globe full and +fair, bringing down the contents amid vociferous applause. Then +commences a general scramble for the contents, consisting of bonbons, +toys, and fancy trinkets.</p> + +<p>The celebrated Tacon Theatre faces the Paseo de Isabella, and is built +on the corner of San Rafael Street. It is a capacious structure, but +extremely plain and unimpressive in its exterior appearance. It has +five tiers of boxes and a spacious parquette, the latter furnished +with separate arm-chair seats for six hundred persons. The entire +seating capacity of the house is a trifle over three thousand, and the +auditorium is of the horseshoe shape. The lattice-work finish before +the boxes is very light and graceful in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> effect, ornamented with gilt, +and so open as to display the dresses and pretty feet of the fair +occupants to the best advantage. The frescos are in good style, and +the ornamentation, without being excessive, is in excellent and +harmonious taste. A large, magnificent glass chandelier, lighted with +gas, and numerous smaller ones extending from the boxes give a +brilliant light to this elegant house, which is one of the largest +theatres in the world. The scene is a remarkable one when tier upon +tier is filled with gayly dressed ladies, powdered and rouged as Cuban +women are apt to be, in the most liberal manner. The parquette is +reserved for gentlemen, and when the audience is assembled forms a +striking contrast to the rest of the house, as they always appear in +dark evening dress, and between the acts put on their tall black +beaver hats. These audiences have their own special modes of +exhibiting appreciation or applause, when captivated by a prima +donna's or a danseuse's efforts to please them. At favorable moments +during the performance the artist is showered with bouquets; white +doves are set free from the boxes, bearing laudatory verses fastened +to their wings; gentlemen throw their hats upon the stage, and +sometimes even purses weighted with gold. Tiny balloons are started +with long streamers of colored ribbon attached; jewelry in the shape +of bracelets and rings is conveyed over the footlights; in short, +these Spaniards are sometimes extraordinarily demonstrative. A furore +has sometimes cost these caballeros large sums of money. But we are +describing the past rather than the immediate present, for the +scarcity of pecuniary means has put an end to nearly all such +extravagances. The Havanese are peculiar in their tastes. While Miss +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +Adelaide Phillips was more than once the recipient of extravagant +favors on the Tacon Theatre stage, Jenny Lind did not pay her +professional expenses when she sang there.</p> + +<p>The military are always in attendance in large numbers at the theatre, +as at all public gatherings in Cuba, their only perceptible use being +to stare the ladies out of countenance and to obstruct the +passageways. In front of the main entrance to the theatre is an open +area decorated with tropical plants and trees, where a group of the +crimson hibiscus was observed, presenting a gorgeous effect of color. +The other places of amusement in Havana, of a dramatic character, are +the Payret Theatre, very large, seating twenty-five hundred; the +Albisu Theatre, and the Circo, Teatro de Jané, this latter combining a +theatre with a circus.</p> + +<p>As a place of amusement and instruction combined we should be remiss +not to mention the Casino of Havana. It is carried on by an organized +society formed on the basis of a club and has, we were told, over one +hundred members. The Casino occupies a fine building, fronting Obispo +Street, and close to the parks. It supports a free school for teaching +the English and French languages and drawing. After some fifteen years +of successful existence the society has become one of the institutions +of the metropolis. The halls and apartments are large, lofty, and very +finely furnished with all domestic conveniences except sleeping +accommodations. Here dramatic entertainments are frequently given, +mostly by amateurs, and generally for charitable purposes. The main +ball-room of the Casino is handsomely decorated and is the scene of +occasional masked balls, after the true<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> Madrid style, where many an +intrigue is consummated which does not always end without bloodshed. +It is the favorite resort of all the high officials of Havana, who +have within their possible reach too few social entertainments not to +make the most of those presented at the Casino. During the carnival +season the ball-room of the establishment is said to present, in the +form of nightly masquerade balls, scenes which for gayety and +picturesqueness cannot be surpassed in Europe.</p> + +<p>Old Havana is certainly eclipsed by the really fine broad streets and +the palatial buildings which have sprung up outside of her ancient +limits. In point of picturesqueness the old town has precedence. Near +where the Indian Paseo and the Plaza de Isabella II. join each other, +a portion of the old wall which once surrounded the city is still to +be seen, with its crumbling bastions and ivy-grown débris. Sufficient +is left to show that the wall was a remarkably substantial one and an +efficient defense against the modes of attack prevalent when it was +built. The Indian Paseo commences opposite the Campo de Marte, and is +so called from the large marble fountain dedicated to that aboriginal +idea. This elaborate structure was executed in Italy at large expense. +Its principal figure is an Indian maiden, allegorical of Havana, +supporting a shield bearing the arms of the city. These paseos are +admirably ornamented on either side by a continuous line of laurel +trees whose thick foliage gives admirable shade. On either side of the +long central promenade the well-paved streets are broad and handsome, +being ornamented with high buildings of a domestic and public +character and of good architectural effect. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>Matanzas & Havana +Railroad depot is situated just opposite one end of the Campo de +Marte, its freight yard extending also along the Paseo for an entire +block, detracing much from the fine effect of the broad street. The +trains and noisy engines being thus brought into the midst of the +dwellings and business centre of the city render it very +objectionable. The guests of the Telegrafo Hotel can bear testimony as +to the nuisance thus created, being awakened at all sorts of +unreasonable hours by the engine bell and steam whistle.</p> + +<p>The Botanical Garden is situated about a mile from the city proper, +adjoining which are the attractive grounds of the Governor General's +country-house. Both are open to the public and richly repay a visit. +The Governor's grounds are shaded by a great variety of tropical trees +and flowers. Here was seen what is called the water rose, pink in +color and nearly double the size of our pond lily, recalling the +Egyptian lotus, to which family it would seem it must belong. +Altogether, the place is a wilderness of blossoms, composed of exotic +and native flowers. There is also an interesting aviary to be seen +here, and a small artificial lake is covered with curious web-footed +birds and brilliant-feathered ducks. The gardens seem to be neglected, +but they are very lovely in their native luxuriance. Dead wood and +decaying leaves are always a concomitant of such gardens in the low +latitudes. If the roses and heliotropes are in full bloom, some other +flowering shrub alongside is taking its rest and looks rusty, so that +the whole garden is never in a glow of beauty at one time, as is the +case with us in June. The noble alley of palms, the great variety of +trees, blossoms, and shrubs, the music<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> of the fountains, and the +tropical flavor permeating everything were all in the harmony of +languid beauty. The coral tree, that lovely freak of vegetation, was +in bloom, its small but graceful stem, seven or eight feet in height, +being topped above the gracefully pendent leaves with a bit of +vegetable coral of deepest red, and in the form of the sea growth from +which it takes its name. The star cactus was in full flower, the +scarlet buds starting out from the flat surface of the thick leaves +after a queer and original fashion. The bread-fruit tree, with its +large, melon-like product, hung heavy with the nourishing esculent. +The Carolina tree, with gorgeous blossoms like military pompons, +blazed here and there, overshadowing the large, pure white, and +beautiful campanile, with hanging flowers, like metallic bells, after +which the plant is named. Here too was a great variety of the scarlet +hibiscus and the garland of night (galan de noche), which grows like a +young palm to eight or nine feet, throwing out from the centre-of its +drooping foliage a cluster of brown blossoms tipped with white, shaped +like a mammoth bunch of grapes. It blooms at night and is fragrant +only by moon and starlight. Cuba presents an inexhaustible field for +the botanist, and in its wilder portions recalls the island of Ceylon +in the Indian Ocean. As Ceylon is called the pearl of India so is Cuba +the pearl of the Antilles.</p> + +<p>To reach the Governor's Garden one turns west from the Campo de Marte +and takes the Calzada de la Reina, which followed about a mile in a +straight line becomes the Paseo de Tacon, really but a continuation of +the former street, commencing at the statue of Carlos III., a colossal +monument placed in the middle of the broad driveway. This Paseo forms the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +favorite evening drive of the citizens, where the ladies in +victorias and the gentlemen either as equestrians or on foot pass and +repass each other, gayly saluting, the ladies with a coquettish +flourish of the fan, and the gentlemen with a peculiar wave of the +hand. It is in fact the Champs Elysées of Havana, but the road is +sadly out of repair and as dusty as an ash-pit.</p> + +<p>The Alameda—every large Spanish city has a spot so designated—skirts +the shore of the harbor on the city side, near the south end of +Oficios Street, and is a favorite resort for promenaders at the +evening hour. Here a refreshing coolness is breathed from off the sea. +This Alameda de Paula might be a continuation of the Neapolitan +Chiaja. With characteristics quite different, still these shores +constantly remind one of the Mediterranean, Sorrento, Amalfi, and +Capri, recalling the shadows which daily creep up the heights of San +Elmo and disappear with the setting sun behind the orange groves. +Sometimes it would seem to be the grand problem of humanity, why the +loveliest regions of the earth and the softest climates should be +apportioned to the share of slaves and despots.</p> + +<p>The cathedral of Havana, on Empedrado Street, is a structure of much +interest, its rude pillared front of defaced and moss-grown stone +plainly telling of the wear of time. The two lofty towers are hung +with many bells, which daily call with their brazen tongues to matins +and vespers. Some of these bells are very ancient. The church is not +elaborately ornamented,—it rather strikes one with its unusual +plainness. It contains a few oil paintings of moderate merit, and also +the tomb where the ashes of Columbus so long reposed. All that is +visible of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> tomb, which is on the right of the altar, is a marble +tablet six or eight feet square, upon which, in high relief, is a bust +of the great discoverer. As a work of art, the less said of this +effigy the better. Beneath the image is an inscription sufficiently +bombastic and Spanish in tone, but therein we observed no mention was +made of the chains and imprisonment with which an ungrateful country +rewarded this man whom history so delights to honor. It will be +remembered that Columbus died at Valladolid in 1506. In 1513 his +remains were transferred to Seville, preparatory to their being sent, +as desired in his will, to St. Domingo, to which city they were +removed in 1536. When that island was ceded to France, they were +brought with great pomp to Havana in a national ship (January 15, +1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high +authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and +are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this +association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet +thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty +dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The +high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry +mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The +stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was +annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was +observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend +in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population +present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from +curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de +la Concepcion.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains +the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have +seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that +this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up +into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive +view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before +a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here +in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the +practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call +your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions: +one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another +is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these +bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has +caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a +danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a +victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as +merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many +years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to +vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such +things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the +sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for +priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgetting many saintly +garments wrought in gold and studded with precious stones. Perhaps you +will think, as we did, that such things are but tinsel before Him whom +they are supposed to honor. Such dazzling paraphernalia may attract +the ignorant or the thoughtless—may make followers, but not +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +converts. Conviction is not the child of fancy, but of judgment.</p> + +<p>In an anteroom at the left of the altar there are also to be seen +utensils of silver and gold, with many costly ornaments for use before +the altar on special church occasions. One of these is a triumph of +delicate workmanship and of the silversmith's art. It is in the form +of a Gothic tower of very elaborate and artistic design, composed of +solid silver, ornamented with gold and precious stones. One regards +this thoroughly useless disposal of money with the thought that the +articles were better sold and the proceeds bestowed in worthy charity. +It would then fulfill a far more Christian purpose than that of adding +glitter to church pomp and ceremony.</p> + +<p>To witness the observance of Holy Week, commencing with Palm Sunday, +in Havana, one would be impressed with a conviction that the people +were at heart devout Roman Catholics. The occasion is solemnly +observed. On Sunday the old cathedral is crowded by people who come to +obtain branches of holy palm from the priests. The old bell-ringer +becomes an important agent of the ceremonies, and the solemn spirit of +the occasion seems to imbue all classes of the Havanese. On Holy +Thursday, just before midday, the bells of all the churches cease to +ring, and every vehicle in the city disappears from the streets as if +by magic. The garrison marches through the principal thoroughfares in +silence, with measured tread and arms reversed. The national flags +upon the shipping, and on all the forts from Moro to the Castillo del +Principe, are displayed at half mast. The cathedral and the churches +are draped in mourning. On Friday, the effigy of our Saviour's body is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +carried in solemn procession, men and priests marching with heads +uncovered, and devout women of the common classes, especially colored +ones, kneeling in the street as it passes. On Saturday, at ten o'clock +in the morning, the old bell-ringer suddenly starts a merry peal from +the cathedral tower—the bells of La Merced, San Agustin, Santa Clara, +and Santa Cataline follow; the town awakens to gayety as from a +lethargic sleep. Whites and negroes rush through the streets like mad; +vehicles of all sorts again make their appearance, the forts and +national ships are dressed in holiday flags, and the town is shaken +with reiterated salutes from a hundred cannons.</p> + +<p>Military mass, as performed within the cathedral, seemed more like a +theatrical show than a solemn religious service. On the occasion +referred to, the congregation as usual was sparse, and consisted +almost exclusively of women, who seem to do penance for both sexes in +Cuba. The military band which led the column of infantry marched in, +playing a quick operatic air, deploying to one side for the soldiery +to pass towards the altar. The time-keeping steps of the soldiery upon +the marble floor mingled with drum, fife, and organ. Through all this, +one caught now and then the monotonous voice of a shaven-headed +priest, reciting his prescribed part at the altar, kneeling and +reading at intervals. The busy censer boys in white gowns; the flaring +candles casting long shadows athwart the high altar; the files of +soldiers kneeling and rising at the tap of the drum; the atmosphere +clouded with the fumes of burning incense,—all combined to make up a +singularly dramatic picture. The gross mummery witnessed at the temple +of Buddha in Ceylon differed only in form, scarcely in degree.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +The wealth of the churches of the monks in the island was formerly +proverbial, but of late the rich perquisites which the priests were so +long permitted to extort from the credulous public have been diverted +so as to flow into the coffers of the crown. A military depotism +brooks no rival in authority. The priests at one time possessed large +tracts of land in Cuba, and their revenue therefrom, especially when +they were improved as sugar plantations, was very large. These lands +have all been confiscated by the government, and with the loss of +their property the power of the monks has declined and their numbers +have also diminished. Still the liberty of public worship is denied to +all save Roman Catholics. Since the suppression of monastic +institutions, some of the convents have been utilized for hospitals, +government storehouses, and other public offices in Havana. There are +some manifest incongruities that suggest themselves as existing +between Church and state upon the island. For instance, the Church +recognizes the unity of all races and even permits marriage between +all, but here steps in the civil law of Cuba and prohibits marriage +between white persons and those having any taint of negro blood. In +consequence of this,—nature always asserting herself regardless of +conventionalities,—a quasi family arrangement often exists between +white men and mulatto or quadroon women, whereby the children are +recognized as legitimate. But should either party come under the +discipline of the Church, the relationship must terminate. Again, as +is perfectly well known, many of the priests, under a thin disguise, +lead domestic lives, where a family of children exist under the care +of a single mother, who is debarred from the honest name of wife by the laws +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +of celibacy which are stringently held as the inexorable rule of the Church.</p> + +<p>If the priesthood keep from cock-fighting and gambling, says a late +writer on the subject, notwithstanding many other departures from +propriety, they are considered respectable. Can there be any wonder +that the masses of men in Cuba recognize no religious obligations, +since none save Roman Catholicism is tolerated, and that, through its +priesthood, is so disgraced?</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Political Inquisition. — Fashionable Streets of the City. — +Tradesmen's Signs. — Bankrupt Condition of Traders. — The +Spanish Array. — Exiled Patriots. — Arrival of Recruits. — +The Garrote. — A Military Execution. — Cuban Milk Dealers. +— Exposure of Domestic Life. — Living in the Open Air. — +The Campo Santo of Havana. — A Funeral Cortége. — Punishing +Slaves. — Campo de Marte. — Hotel Telegrafo. — Environs of +the City. — Bishop's Garden. — Consul-General Williams. — +Mineral Springs. +</div> + +<p>The Inquisition, as it regards the Church of Rome, is suppressed in +Cuba, but the political inquisition, as exercised by the government on +the island, is even more diabolical than that of the former Jesuitical +organization, because it is more secret in its murderous deeds, not +one half of the horrors of which will ever be publicly known. Moro +Castle is full of political prisoners, who are thinned out by +executions, starvation, and hardships generally, from day to day, only +to make room for fresh victims. He who enters those grim portals +leaves all hope behind. Political trials there are none, but of +political arrests there are endless numbers. The life of every citizen +is at the disposal of the Captain-General. If a respectable person is +arrested, as one suspected of animosity towards the government, he +simply disappears. His friends dare not press his defense, or inquire +too closely as to his case, lest they, too, should be incarcerated on +suspicion, never again to regain their liberty. A maxim of Spanish law +is that every accused person is guilty, until he proves himself +innocent! As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> a large majority of the people, in their hearts, +sympathize with the revolutionists, and are revolutionists in secret, +they are liable to say or to do some trifling thing unwittingly, upon +which the lynx-eyed officials seize as evidence of guilt, and their +arrest follows. What fearful stories the dungeons of Moro could reveal +had they tongue with which to speak!</p> + +<p>Obispo and O'Riley streets are the principal shopping thoroughfares of +the metropolis, containing many fine stores for the sale of dry goods, +millinery, china, glassware, and jewelry. These shops are generally +quite open in front. Standing at the end, and looking along either of +these thoroughfares, one gets a curious perspective view. The +party-colored awnings often stretch entirely across the narrow +streets, reminding one of a similar effect in Canton, where straw +matting takes the place of canvas, forming a sort of open marquee. The +queer names adopted for the stores never fail to afford a theme of +amusement; the drawling cries of the fruit-dealers and peripatetic +tradesmen giving an added interest. The merchant in Havana does not +designate his establishment by placing his own name upon his sign, but +adopts some fancy title, such as Diana, America, The Star, Virtue, The +Golden Lion, and so on, which titles are paraded in gilt letters over +the door. The Spanish people are always prodigal in names, making the +sun, moon and stars, gods and goddesses, all do duty in designating +their stores, villas, and plantations. Nearly every town on the island +is named after some apostle or saint. The tradesmen are thorough Jews +in their style of dealing with the public, and no one thinks of paying +them the price which they first demand for an article. It is their +practice<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> in naming a price to make allowance for reduction; they +expect to be bargained with, or cheapened at least one half. The +ladies commonly make their purchases late in the afternoon or evening, +stopping in their victorias at the doors of the shops, from whence the +articles they desire are brought by the shopmen and deftly displayed +on the street. When lighted up at night the stores are really +brilliant and attractive, presenting quite a holiday appearance; but +customers are sadly wanting in these days of business depression. "I +have been compelled to dismiss my salesmen and do their work myself," +said a dry-goods merchant to us; "we dare not give credit, and few +persons have cash to spare in these times."</p> + +<p>One of the principal causes of the present bankrupt condition of the +people of Cuba is the critical period of transition through which the +island is passing from slave to free labor; besides which there is the +exhaustion consequent upon years of civil war and a succession of bad +crops. Labor is becoming dearer and sugar cheaper. The Spaniards are +slow to adopt labor-saving machinery, or new ideas of any sort, and +those not already supplied have neither capital nor credit with which +to procure the new machinery for sugar-making. The enormous production +of European beet-sugar has cut off all Continental demand for their +staple, and has in some degree superseded its use in America. +Brigandage is on the increase, as poverty and want of legitimate +employment prevail. Money, when it can be borrowed at all, is at a +ruinous interest. The army of office-holders still manage to extort +considerable sums in the aggregate from the people, under the guise of +necessary taxes. Financial ruin stares all in the face.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> It is a sad +thing to say, but only too true, that among people heretofore +considered above suspicion in commercial transactions great dishonesty +prevails, pecuniary distress and lack of credit driving men, once in +good standing, to defraud their creditors at home and abroad. Estates +and plantations are not only heavily mortgaged, but the prospective +crops are in the same condition, in many cases. In former prosperous +years the planters have been lavish spenders of money, ever ready to +use their credit to the full extent, until their interest account has +consumed their principal. The expensive habits acquired under the +promptings of large profits and a sure market are difficult to +overcome, and people who never anticipated the present state of +affairs are now forced to exercise economy and self-denial. Cuban +planters and their families, in years past, came to our most +fashionable watering-places decked with jewels of almost fabulous +value, and they lavished gold like water; most of these individuals +considered themselves to be rich beyond the chances of fortune. Their +profuse style of living was a source of envy; their liberality to +landlords and to servants was demoralizing, as it regarded the tariff +of hotel prices for more steady-going people. Thousands of human +beings were yielding their enforced labor to fill these spendthrifts' +purses, and sugar was king. The picture has its reverse. Civil war has +supervened, the slaves are being freed, sugar is no longer a bonanza, +and the rich man of yesterday is the bankrupt of to-day. Truly riches +have wings.</p> + +<p>Spain keeps a large and effective force of soldiers upon the +island,—an army out of all proportion in numbers to the territory or +people she holds in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> subjection. The present military force must +number some forty thousand, rank and file, and the civil department +fully equals the army in number; and all are home Spaniards. A large +portion of the military are kept in the eastern department of the +island, which is and has ever been the locality where revolutionary +outbreaks occur. Eighty per cent, of all the soldiers ever sent to +Cuba have perished there! It is as Castelar once pronounced the island +to be, in the Cortes at Madrid, namely, the Campo Santo of the Spanish +army. Exposure, a miserable commissariat, the climate, and insurgent +bullets combine to thin the ranks of the army like a raging +pestilence. We were informed by a responsible party that twenty-five +per cent, of the newly-arrived soldiers died in their first year, +during what is called their acclimation. Foreigners who visit Cuba for +business or pleasure do so at the most favorable season; they are not +subjected to hardships nor exposed in malarial districts. The +soldiers, on the contrary, are sent indiscriminately into the fever +districts at the worst season, besides being called upon to endure +hardships, all the time, which predispose them to fatal diseases.</p> + +<p>There are known to be organized juntas of revolutionists at Key West, +Florida, in Hayti, and also in New York city, whose designs upon the +Cuban government keep the authorities on the island in a state of +chronic alarm. A revolutionary spirit is felt to be all the while +smouldering in the hearts of this oppressed people, and hence the +tyrannous espionage, and the cruelty exercised towards suspected +persons. So enormous are the expenses, military and civil, which are +required to sustain the government, under these circumstances, that +Cuba to-day, notwithstanding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> the heavy taxes extorted from her +populace, is an annual expense to the throne. Formerly the snug sum of +seven or eight millions of dollars was the yearly contribution which +the island made to the royal treasury, after paying local army, navy, +and civil expenses. This handsome sum was over and above the pickings +and stealings of the venal officials. As to the Cuban sympathizers at +Key West, Florida, a recent visit to that port, just opposite to the +island on the hither side of the Gulf Stream, showed us that they +formed a large proportion of the population of that thrifty American +town. On a day which was the anniversary of some patriotic occasion +relating to the island, hundreds of Cuban flags (the single star of +free Cuba) were seen displayed upon the dwellings and public places. +There are believed to be two thousand Creoles residing here, who have +either been expelled from the island for political reasons, or who +have escaped from thence as suspected patriots. These people are very +generally engaged in the manufacture of the well-known Key West +cigars.</p> + +<p>The Spanish army is governed with an iron hand. Military law knows no +mercy, and it is always more or less a lapse into barbarism where it +takes precedence. The ranks are filled by conscription in Spain, and +when the men first arrive at Havana they are the rawest recruits +imaginable. Soldiers who have been doing garrison duty are sent inland +to fill the decimated ranks of various stations, and room is thus made +for the recruits, who are at once put to work, enduring a course of +severe discipline and drill. They land from the transports, many of +them, hatless, barefooted, and in a filthy condition, with scarcely a +whole garment among a regiment of them. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> writer could hardly +believe, on witnessing the scene, that they were not a set of +criminals being transported for penal servitude. Fatigue dresses no +doubt awaited them at the barracks, and after a while they would be +served with a cheap uniform, coarse shoes, and straw hats. They are +like sheep being driven to the shambles, and are quite as helpless. +Twenty-five per cent, and upwards of these recruits are usually under +the sod before the close of a twelve-month!</p> + +<p>Sometimes the hardship they have to endure breeds rebellion among +them, but woe betide those who commit any overt act, or become leaders +of any organized attempt to obtain justice. The service requires +frequent victims as examples to enforce the rigid discipline. The +punishment by the garrote is a common resort. It is a machine +contrived to choke the victim to death without suspending him in the +air. At the same time it is fatal in another way, namely, by severing +the spinal column just below its connection with the brain. The +condemned man is placed upon a chair fixed on a platform, leaning his +head and neck back into a sort of iron yoke or frame prepared to +receive it. Here an iron collar is clasped about the throat. At the +appointed moment a screw is suddenly turned by the executioner, +stationed behind the condemned, and instantaneous death follows. This +would seem to be more merciful than hanging, whereby death is produced +by the lingering process of suffocation, to say nothing of the many +mishaps which so often occur upon the gallows. This mode of punishment +is looked upon by the army as a disgrace, and they much prefer the +legitimate death of a soldier, which is to fall by the bullets of his +comrades when condemned to die.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +The writer witnessed one of these military executions, early on a +clear April morning, which took place in the rear of the barracks near +La Punta. It was a trying experience, and recalled to mind the +execution of the mulatto poet and patriot, Valdez, which had occurred +a few years before in the Plaza at Matanzas. It was a sight to chill +the blood even under a tropical sun. A soldier of the line was to be +shot for some act of insubordination against the stringent rules of +the army, and that the punishment might prove a forcible example to +his comrades the battalion to which he belonged was drawn up on parade +to witness the cruel scene. The immediate file of twelve men to which +the victim had belonged were supplied with muskets by their officer, +and we were told that, according to custom, one musket was left +without ball, so that each one might hope that his was not the hand to +slay his former comrade. A sense of mercy would still lead them all to +aim faithfully, so that lingering pain might be avoided.</p> + +<p>The order was given: the bright morning sun shone like living fire +along the polished barrels of the guns, as the fatal muzzles all +ranged in point at the body of the condemned. "Fire!" said the +commanding officer. A quick, rattling report followed, accompanied by +a thin cloud of smoke, which was at once dispersed by the sea breeze, +showing the still upright form of the victim. Though wounded in many +places, no vital spot had been touched, nor did he fall until the +sergeant, at a sign from his officer, advanced with a reserved musket, +and quickly blew out his brains! His body was removed. The troops were +formed into column, the band struck up a lively air, and thus was a +human being launched into eternity.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +Few current matters strike the stranger as being more peculiar than +the Cuban milkman's mode of supplying the required aliment to his town +customers. He has no cart bearing shining cans, they in turn filled +with milk, or with what purports to be milk; his mode is direct, and +admits of no question as to purity. Driving his sober kine from door +to door, he deliberately milks then and there just the quantity +required by each customer, delivers it, and drives on to the next. The +patient animal becomes as familiar with the residences of her master's +customers as he is himself, and stops unbidden, at regular intervals, +before the proper doors, often followed by a pretty little calf, which +amuses itself by gazing enviously at the process, being prevented from +interfering by a leather muzzle. Sometimes the flow of milk is checked +by an effort of the animal herself, when she seems to realize that the +calf is not getting its share of nourishment. The driver then promptly +brings the calf to the mother's side, and removes the muzzle long +enough to give the little one a brief chance. The cow freely yields +her milk while the calf is close to her, and the milkman, muzzling the +calf, adroitly milks into his measure. The same mode is adopted in +India and the south of Spain. There are at least two good reasons for +delivering milk in hot climates after this fashion. First, there can +be no adulteration of the article; and second, it is sure to be fresh +and sweet. This last is a special desideratum in a climate where ice +is an expensive luxury, and the difficulty of keeping milk from +becoming acid is very great. The effect upon the cow is by no means +salutary, causing the animal to produce much less in quantity than +when milked clean at regularly fixed hours, as with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> us. Goats are +often driven about for the same purpose and used in the same manner. +It was a surprise not to see more of these animals in Cuba, a country +especially adapted to them. Cows thrive best upon grass, of which +there is comparatively little in the tropics,—vegetation runs to +larger development; but goats eat anything green, and do well nearly +anywhere. It is a singular fact that sheep transported to this climate +cease gradually to produce wool. After three or four generations they +grow only a simple covering, more like hair than wool, and resemble +goats rather than sheep.</p> + +<p>Glass is scarcely known in Cuban windows; the glazier has yet to make +his début in Havana. The most pretentious as well as the humblest of +the town-houses have the broad, high, projecting window, reaching from +floor to ceiling, secured only by heavy horizontal iron bars, +prison-like in effect, through which, as one passes along the narrow +streets, it is nearly impossible to avoid glancing in upon domestic +scenes that frequently exhibit the female portion of the family en +déshabillé. Sometimes a loose lace curtain intervenes, but even this +is unusual, the freest circulation of fresh air being quite necessary. +The eye penetrates the whole interior of domestic life, as at Yokohama +or Tokio. Indeed, the manners of the female occupants seem to court +this attention from without, coming freely as they do to the windows +to chat with passers-by. Once inside of these dwelling-houses there +are no doors, curtains alone shutting off the communication between +chambers, sitting-rooms, and corridors. These curtains, when not +looped up, are sufficient to keep out persons of the household or +strangers, it being the custom always to speak, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> place of knocking, +before passing a curtain; but the little naked negro children, male +and female, creep under these curtains without restraint, while +parrots, pigeons, and fowls generally make common use of all nooks and +corners of the house. Doors might keep these out of one's room, but +curtains do not. The division walls between the apartments in private +houses, like those in the hotels, often reach but two thirds of the +way up to the walls, thus affording free circulation of air, but +rendering privacy impossible. One reason why the Cubans all possess +such broad expanded chests is doubtless owing to the fact that their +lungs find free action at all times. They live, as it were, in the +open air. The effect of this upon strangers is seen and felt, +producing a sense of physical exhilaration, fine spirits, and a good +appetite. It would be impossible to live in a dwelling-house built in +our close, secure style, if it were placed in the city of Havana. The +laundress takes possession of the roof of the house during the day, +but it is the place of social gathering at night, when the family and +their guests enjoy the sea-breeze which sweeps in from the Gulf of +Mexico. On a clear, bright moonlight night the effect is very striking +as one looks across the house-tops, nearly all being upon a level. +Many cheerful circles are gathered here and there, some dancing to the +notes of a guitar, some singing, and others engaged in quiet games. +Merry peals of laughter come from one direction and another, telling +of light and thoughtless hearts among the family groups. Occasionally +there is borne along the range of roofs the swelling but distant +strains of the military band playing in the Plaza de Isabella, while +the moon looks calmly down from a sky whose intensely blue vault is +only broken by stars.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +The cemetery, or Campo Santo, of Havana is situated about three miles +outside of the city. A high wall incloses the grounds, in which +oven-like niches are prepared for the reception of the coffins +containing the bodies of the wealthy residents, while the poor are +thrown into shallow graves, often several bodies together in a long +trench, negroes and whites, without a coffin of any sort. Upon them is +thrown quicklime to promote rapid decomposition. The cremation which +forms the mode of disposing of the bodies of the deceased as practiced +in India is far less objectionable.</p> + +<p>The funeral cortége is unique in Havana. The hearse, drawn by four +black horses, is gilded and decked like a car of Juggernaut, and +driven by a flunkey in a cocked hat covered with gold braid, a scarlet +coat alive with brass buttons and gilt ornaments, and top boots which, +as he sits, reach half-way to his chin. This individual flourishes a +whip like a fishing-pole, and is evidently very proud of his position. +Beside the hearse walk six hired mourners on either side, dressed in +black, with cocked hats and swallow-tail coats. Fifteen or twenty +victorias follow, containing only male mourners. The driver in +scarlet, the twelve swallow-tails in black, and the occupants of the +victorias each and all are smoking cigars as though their lives +depended upon the successful operation. And so the cortége files into +the Campo Santo.</p> + +<p>Not far from La Punta there is a structure, protected from the public +gaze by a high wall, where the slaves of either sex belonging to the +citizens of Havana are brought for punishment. Within are a series of +whipping-posts, to which these poor creatures<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> are bound before +applying the lash to their bare bodies. The sight of this fiendish +procedure is cut off from the public, but more than one person has +told us of having heard the agonizing cries of the victims. And yet +there are people who will tell us these poor creatures are far better +off than when in their native country. One slave-owner said it was +necessary to make an example of some member of all large households of +slaves each month, in order to keep them under discipline! Another +said, "I never whip my slaves; it may be necessary upon a plantation, +but not in domestic circles in town. When they have incurred my +displeasure, they are deprived of some small creature comfort, or +denied certain liberties, which punishment seems to answer every +object." So it will be seen that all slave-holders are not cruel. Some +seem as judicious and reasonable as is possible under the miserable +system of slavery.</p> + +<p>Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of +the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in +what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits +of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded +the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron +fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides +was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square +pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north, +Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east +side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon. +His administration has been more praised and more censured than that +of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> Campo de +Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes +generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious +walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have +been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and +pleasure-ground.</p> + +<p>Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in +Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject, +doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general +reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel +Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to +be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being +opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke +English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed +the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars +per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table +fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish +was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one +desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather +than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as +being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but +little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously +offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in +summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary +rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in +peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of +Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who have +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for +instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no +use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was +thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by +the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet +accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse. +There is the San Carlos Hotel, near the wharves, which is more of a +family than a travelers' resort; the Hotel Pasaje, in Prado Street, +quite central; Hotel Europe, in La Plaza de San Francisco; and Hotels +Central and Ingleterra: the last two are opposite the Plaza de +Isabella, and are in the midst of noise and gayety. Arrangements can +be made at any of these houses for board by the day, or on the +European plan; all have restaurants.</p> + +<p>There are some very attractive summer resorts in the environs of the +city, one of the nearest and prettiest of which is El Cerro (the +hill), one league from town. It has a number of remarkably pleasant +country-seats, some of which have extensive gardens, rivaling that of +the Captain-General in extent. But to reach Cerro one has to drive +over a road which is in such want of repair as to be dangerous, +gullied by the rains, and exhibiting holes two feet deep, liable to +break the horses' legs and the wheels of the vehicles. Here is a road, +close to Havana, with stones weighing hundreds of pounds on the +surface, in the very wheel-tracks. Handsome hedges of the wild pine, +the aloe, and the Spanish bayonet line the road, where an occasional +royal palm, the emblem of majesty, stands alone, adding grandeur to +all the surroundings. If you drive out to Cerro, put on a linen +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +duster; otherwise you will be likely to come back looking like a +miller's apprentice. Not far beyond Cerro there lies some beautiful +country, reached by the same miserable road. Puentes Grandes, a small +village near the falls of the Almendares River, is but two miles +further north than Cerro, and adjoining this place, a couple of miles +further, is a small, picturesque village called Ceiba, from the +abundance of that species of tree which once flourished there. These +two places have some interesting country residences, where the +wealthiest citizens of Havana spend their summers. The village of +Quemados is also in this immediate neighborhood, about a couple of +leagues from town; here is situated the Havana Hippodrome, where +horse-races take place in the winter season. We must not forget to +mention Vedado, on the seashore, whither the Havanese drive oftenest +on Sundays; it is also connected with the city by steam-cars and +omnibus. There are some fine villas here, and it is quite a Cuban +watering-place, affording excellent bathing facilities. Vedado has +wide streets, and, after the city, seems to be remarkably clean and +neat.</p> + +<p>The Bishop's Garden, so called because some half century since it was +the residence of the Bishop of Havana, is about four miles from the +city, on the line of the Marianao railroad. It must have been a +delightful place when in its prime and properly cared for; even now, +in its ruins, it is extremely interesting. There are a score, more or +less, of broken, moss-grown statues, stone balustrades, and stone +capitals lying among the luxuriant vegetation, indicating what was +once here. Its alleys of palms, over two hundred years in age, the +thrifty almond-trees, and the gaudy-colored<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> piñons, with their +honeysuckle-like bloom, delight the eye. The flamboyant absolutely +blazed in its gorgeous flowers, like ruddy flames, all over the +grounds. The remarkable fan-palm spread out its branches like a +peacock's tail, screening vistas here and there. Through these grounds +flows a small swift stream, which has its rise in the mountains some +miles inland, its bright and sparkling waters imparting an added +beauty to the place. By simple irrigating means this stream is made to +fertilize a considerable tract of land used as vegetable gardens, +lying between Tulipan and Havana. The Bishop's Garden still contains +large stone basins for swimming purposes, cascades, fountains, and +miniature lakes, all rendered possible by means of this small, clear, +deep river. The neglected place is sadly suggestive of decay, with its +moss-covered paths, tangled undergrowth, and untrimmed foliage. +Nothing, however, can mar the glory of the grand immemorial palms.</p> + +<p>The town of Tulipan, in which is the Bishop's Garden, is formed of +neat and pleasant residences of citizens desiring to escape the bustle +and closeness of the city. The houses are half European or American in +their architecture, modified to suit the climate. Here the American +Consul-General has a delightfully chosen home, surrounded by pleasant +shade, and characterized by lofty, cool apartments; with bright, snowy +marble floors, plenty of space, and perfect ventilation. Mr. Williams +is a gentleman unusually well fitted for the responsible position he +fills, having been a resident of Cuba for many years, and speaking the +language like a native. In his intensely patriotic sentiments he is a +typical American. It is not out of place for us to acknowledge here our +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +indebtedness to him for much important information relating to +the island.</p> + +<p>The most celebrated mineral springs in Cuba are to be found at San +Diego, where there are hot sulphur waters, springs bubbling +ceaselessly from the earth, and for which great virtues are claimed. +The springs are situated west of Havana, between thirty and forty +leagues, at the base of the southern slope of the mountains. These +waters are freely drank, as well as bathed in, and are highly charged +with sulphureted hydrogen, and contain sulphate of lime and carbonate +of magnesia. There are some diseases of women for which the San Diego +waters are considered to be a specific, and remarkable cures are +authenticated. Rheumatism and skin diseases are specially treated by +the local physician. There is a very fair hotel at San Diego, located +near the baths, and many Americans speak warmly in praise of the place +as a health resort.</p> + +<p>Next to the springs of San Diego, those of Madruga are notable, +situated between Matanzas and Havana, and which can be reached by +rail. The character of these springs is very similar to those of San +Diego, though of lower temperature. They are used both for bathing and +for drinking. Madruga is more easily accessible from the metropolis +than is San Diego. There is also a good physician resident in the +village.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +The Fish-Market of Havana. — The Dying Dolphin. — Tax upon +the Trade. — Extraordinary Monopoly. — Harbor Boats. — A +Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. — King of the Isle of +Pines. — The Offered Reward. — Sentinels in the Plaza de +Armas. — The Governor General and the Intruder. — "I am +Captain Marti!" — The Betrayal. — The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. +— The Pardon and the Reward. — Tacon's Stewardship and +Official Career. — Monopoly of Theatricals. — A Negro Festival. +</div> + +<p>The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and +quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even +excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of +Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The +scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes +indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only +procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a +distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from +Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was +through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication +was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends +on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them, +until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers.</p> + +<p>The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of +Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have +never seen equaled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris +colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is +ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are +virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and +double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be +measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical +ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as +ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to +the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much +used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being +curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors +which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was +closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited +by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if +reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple. +Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by +alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a +dull, lustreless gray.</p> + +<p>The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table +extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches +resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus +insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in +the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the +large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block +from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh +sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name +the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the +government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to +pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The +boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the +government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine +lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but +even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost +precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the +Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the +stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting +for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long +suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have +learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make +no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels.</p> + +<p>The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship +of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by +way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the +reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement.</p> + +<p>One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that +of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent +individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a +notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring +and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the +pretentious title of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a +fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any +other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters +to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes +extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans. +With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately +imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even +that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and +to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said +to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having +been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto. +His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have +given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed +a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His +masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of +him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise +and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies +or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired. +Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends +upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is +known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally +turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more +profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to +be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even +to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity, +being stimulated by the excessive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> and unreasonable excise duties +imposed upon the necessities of life.</p> + +<p>When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a +very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal +authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were +practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a +contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in +broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of +the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even +in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on +in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a +determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously +about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent +hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing +their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and +dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first +moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of +smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with +life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and +day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to +little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was +only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the +contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials. +The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely +defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws +failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want +of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> among the shoals +frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was +offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as +pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was +offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be +the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the +authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken +that those who were most interested should be made aware of their +purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too +much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered +to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign +punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The +government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object.</p> + +<p>It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months +subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred. +Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of +the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the +Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening +in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music, +had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and +found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the +stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the +tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between +the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though +bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their +part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure, +wrapped in a half military<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> cloak, might have been observed watching +the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After +observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other +face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes +of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard, +the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without +being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manœuvre, +requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment +the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a +bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the +shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed.</p> + +<p>The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the +gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the +Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a +perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at +the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the +stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as +though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The +drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some +regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered +the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a +large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged +in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised +satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the +new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak, +tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the +perspiration from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise +and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:—</p> + +<p>"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?"</p> + +<p>"One who has important information to impart to the government," was +the quiet reply.</p> + +<p>"But why seek this manner of audience?"</p> + +<p>"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear."</p> + +<p>"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?"</p> + +<p>"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency."</p> + +<p>"But I do mind it very seriously."</p> + +<p>"It can be explained by and by."</p> + +<p>"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your +business here?"</p> + +<p>"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any +information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger. +"Is it not so?"</p> + +<p>"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to +say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly."</p> + +<p>"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise +I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate."</p> + +<p>"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"—</p> + +<p>"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn +state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"—</p> + +<p>"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon."</p> + +<p>"True, but"—</p> + +<p>"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward +involves unconditional pardon to the informant."</p> + +<p>"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the +leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +"Ay."</p> + +<p>"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make."</p> + +<p>"Speak, then."</p> + +<p>"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will +grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you +require?"</p> + +<p>"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor.</p> + +<p>"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have +been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?"</p> + +<p>"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently.</p> + +<p>"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered +the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this +precaution.</p> + +<p>"Even if I were a leader among these men?"</p> + +<p>The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man +before him a searching glance, then said:—</p> + +<p>"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot +our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you +shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card."</p> + +<p>"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully +trust these words, else I should not have ventured here."</p> + +<p>"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious," +continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from +his seat.</p> + +<p>"It is well. I will speak without further parley. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +The man for whom you have offered the largest reward—ay, +dead or alive—is before you!"</p> + +<p>"And you are"—</p> + +<p>"Captain Marti!"</p> + +<p>Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some +lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively +cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his +right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not +unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of +similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the +table, saying:—</p> + +<p>"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the +future, not fighting."</p> + +<p>"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of +thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that, +provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law +demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to +secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added.</p> + +<p>"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"We understand each other then."</p> + +<p>Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a +verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after, +the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement, +with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the +circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers.</p> + +<p>Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the +scene which we have described,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> then, summoning the officer of the +guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved +and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not +made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been +condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid.</p> + +<p>On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay +under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost +activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of +the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully +did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among +the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he +was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage +places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores +were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels +were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one +of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the +would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a +rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few +hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but +still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied +the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous +became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon +was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the +ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look +very deeply into the business, and they believed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> that Marti had +really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him +to his presence and said to Marti:—</p> + +<p>"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am +prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and +unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark +the word <i>past</i> offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new +disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as +though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an +order upon the treasury for the sum"—</p> + +<p>"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back, +and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward.</p> + +<p>"What does this mean?" asked Tacon.</p> + +<p>"Permit me to explain, Excellency."</p> + +<p>"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor.</p> + +<p>"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to +the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal."</p> + +<p>"Speak out. Let us know what it is."</p> + +<p>"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the +money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the +coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with +fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply +compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense, +which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of +twenty-five years shall revert to the government."</p> + +<p>"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the +Governor.</p> + +<p>"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing +to leave.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably +accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought."</p> + +<p>As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw +that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered +that he should always have the man under his control, and so the +proposal was finally accepted and confirmed.</p> + +<p>The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this +extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they +were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and +realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old +business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the +largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the +article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired +for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the +government.</p> + +<p>Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to +see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him +that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in +Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast, +he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the +privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and +best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the +Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of +this monopoly were never made public.</p> + +<p>Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these +are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which +are believed to be authentic.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba, +none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled +the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning +to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful +character, for although he followed out with energy the various +improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were +often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people +generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he +vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built +a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new +roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and +opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus +laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the +formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also +practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical +effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the +gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the +public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement.</p> + +<p>In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting +a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were +formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our +American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude, +arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were +counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed +for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There +was undoubtedly much of right<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> mingled with his wrongs, but if he left +lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many +tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be +throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of +justice—wild justice—prompting him. Some of the stories still +current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case, +while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as +exercised in the contract with Captain Marti.</p> + +<p>On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as +in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration; +indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday +for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each +with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude +African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic +and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks +representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on +dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to +point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one +they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate +way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on +the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead +calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief. +But what it all means except improving a special occasion for +wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will +puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is +but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually +imported<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however, +from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be +remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years.</p> + +<p>The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these +notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under +the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four +miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and +thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two +thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied +upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its +whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two +thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by +springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than +that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English +physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which +has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is +remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary +invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford +good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky +islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition +in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of +precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur, +quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is +reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a month.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">The Havana Lottery. — Its Influence. — Hospitality of the +Cubans. — About Bonnets. — The Creole Lady's Face. — Love +of Flowers. — An Atmospheric Narcotic. — The Treacherous +Indian Fig. — How the Cocoanut is propagated. — Cost of +Living in Cuba. — Spurious Liquors. — A Pleasant Health +Resort. — The Cock-Pit. — Game-Birds. — Their Management. +— A Cuban Cock-Fight. — Garden of the World. — About +Birds. — Stewed Owl! — Slaughter of the Innocents. — The +Various Fruits.</div> + + +<p>There is a regularly organized lottery in Havana, to which the +government lends its name, and which has semi-monthly drawings. These +drawings are made in public, and great care is taken to impress the +people with the idea of their entire fairness. The authorities realize +over a million dollars annually by the tax which is paid into the +treasury on these most questionable enterprises. The lottery is +patronized by high and low, the best mercantile houses devoting a +regular sum monthly to the purchase of tickets on behalf of their +firms. One individual of this class told the writer that no drawing +had taken place within the last ten years at Havana in which the firm +of which he was a member had not been interested to the extent of at +least one doubloon, that is, one whole ticket. The mode usually is, +however, to purchase several fractional parts of tickets, so as to +multiply the chances. On being asked what was the result of the ten +years of speculation in this line, the reply was that the books of the +firm would show, as it was entered therein like any other line of purchases. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> +Curious to find an authentic instance as an example, the +matter was followed up until the result was found. It seemed that this +house had averaged about four hundred dollars per annum expended for +lottery tickets, that is, four thousand dollars in the last ten years. +On the credit side they had received in prizes about nineteen hundred +dollars, making a loss of twenty-one hundred dollars. "But then," +remarked our informant, "we may get a big prize one of these +days,—who knows?"</p> + +<p>The lottery here proves to be as great a curse as it does in Italy, +where its demoralizing effects are more apparent. The poorer classes, +even including the slaves and free negroes, are regular purchasers, +and occasionally a prize is realized among them, which stimulates to +increased ventures. A few years since, some slaves upon a plantation +near Alquizar purchased a single ticket, clubbing together in order to +raise the money. These Africans drew a prize of forty thousand +dollars, which sum was honestly paid to them, and they purchased their +freedom at once, dividing a very pretty amount for each as a capital +to begin business on his own account.</p> + +<p>"And pray what became of those liberated men?" we asked of our +informant. "Singular to say I can tell you," he answered. "Others felt +the same interest you express, and they have been followed in their +subsequent career. There were sixteen of the party, who realized equal +portions of the prize. They were valuable slaves, and paid an average +of fifteen hundred dollars each for their free papers. This left them +a thousand dollars each. Two returned to Africa. Four joined the +insurgents at Santiago, in 1870, and were probably shot. The remainder +drank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> themselves to death in Havana, or died by fevers induced +through intemperate habits." "Did you ever know a man, white or black, +who drew a prize of any large amount, who was not the worse for it +after a short time?" we asked. "Perhaps not," was his honest reply. A +miserable creature came into the vestibule of the Telegrafo Hotel one +day begging. After he had departed we were told that a few years ago +he was possessed of a fortune. "Why is he in this condition?" we +asked. "He was engaged in a good business," said our informant, "drew +a large prize in the lottery, sold out his establishment, and gave +himself up to pleasure, gambling, and drink. That is all that is left +of him now. He has just come out of the hospital, where he was treated +for paralysis."</p> + +<p>Honestly conducted as these lotteries are generally believed to be, +their very stability and the just payment of prizes but makes them the +more baleful and dangerous in their influence upon the public. As +carried on in Havana, the lottery business is the most wholesale mode +of gambling ever witnessed. Though some poor man may become +comparatively wealthy through their means, once in twenty years, yet +in the mean time thousands are impoverished in their mad zeal to +purchase tickets though it cost them the last dollar they possess. The +government thus fosters a taste for gambling and supplies the ready +means, while any one at all acquainted with the Spanish character must +know that the populace need no prompting in a vice to which they seem +to take intuitively. No people, unless it be the Chinese, are so +addicted to all games of chance upon which money can be staked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +Spaniards, and especially Cuban Spaniards, receive credit for being +extremely hospitable, and to a certain extent this is true; but one +soon learns to regard the extravagant manifestations which so often +characterize their domestic etiquette as rather empty and heartless. +Let a stranger enter the house of a Cuban for the first time, +especially if he be a foreigner, and the host or hostess of the +mansion at once places all things they possess at his service, yet no +one thinks for a single moment of interpreting this offer literally. +The family vehicle is at your order, or the loan of a saddle horse, +and in such small kindnesses they are always generous; but when they +beg you to accept a ring, a book, or a valuable toy, because you have +been liberal in your praise of the article, you are by no means to do +so. Another trait of character which suggests itself in this +connection is the universal habit of profuse compliment common among +Cuban ladies. Flattery is a base coin at best, but it is current here. +The ladies listen to these compliments as a matter of course from +their own countrymen or such Frenchmen as have settled among them, but +if an American takes occasion to express his honest admiration to a +Creole, her delight is at once manifest. Both the French and Spanish +are extremely gallant to the gentler sex, but it requires no argument +to show that woman under either nationality is far less esteemed and +honored than she is with us in America.</p> + +<p>The bonnet, which forms so important a part of a lady's costume in +Europe and America, is rarely worn by the Creoles, and strangers who +appear on the streets of Havana with the latest fashion of this ever +varying article are regarded with curiosity, though so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> many American +and English ladies visit the island annually. In place of a bonnet, +when any covering is considered desirable for the head, the Cuban +ladies generally wear a long black veil, richly wrought, and gathered +at the back of the head upon the clustered braid of hair, which is +always black and luxuriant. More frequently, however, even this +appendage is not seen, and they drive in the Paseo or through the +streets with their heads entirely uncovered, save by the sheltering +hood of the victoria. When necessity calls them abroad in the early or +middle hours of the day, there is generally a canvas screen buttoned +to the dasher and extended to the top of the calash, to shut out the +too ardent rays of the sun. Full dress, on all state occasions, is +black, but white is universally worn by the ladies in domestic life, +forming a rich contrast to the olive complexions of the women. +Sometimes in the Paseo, when enjoying the evening drive, these fair +creatures indulge in strange contrasts of colors in dress. They also +freely make use of a cosmetic called cascarilla, made from eggshells +finely powdered and mixed with the white of the egg. This forms an +adhesive paste, with which they at times enamel themselves, so that +faces and necks that are naturally dark resemble those of persons who +are white as pearls.</p> + +<p>There is one indispensable article, without which a Cuban lady would +feel herself absolutely lost. The fan is a positive necessity to her, +and she learns its coquettish and graceful use from childhood. Formed +of various rich materials, it glitters in her tiny hand like a gaudy +butterfly, now half, now wholly shading her radiant face, which +quickly peeps out again from behind its shelter, like the moon from +out a passing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> cloud. This little article, always costly, sometimes +very expensive, in her hand seems in its eloquence of motion almost to +speak. She has a witching flirt with it that expresses scorn; a +graceful wave of complacence; an abrupt closing of it that indicates +vexation or anger; a gradual and cautious opening of its folds that +signifies reluctant forgiveness; in short, the language of the fan in +the hand of a Cuban lady is a wonderfully adroit and expressive +pantomime that requires no interpreter, for, like the Chinese written +language, it cannot be spoken.</p> + +<p>It may be the prodigality of nature in respect to Flora's kingdom +which has retarded the development of a love for flowers among the +people of the island. Doubtless if Maréchal Niel roses, Jacqueminots, +jonquils, and lilies of the valley were as abundant with us in every +field as clover, dandelions, and buttercups, we should hardly regard +them with so much delight as we do. It is not common to see flowers +under cultivation as they are at the North. They spring up too readily +in a wild state from the fertile soil. One cannot pass over half a +league on an inland road without his senses being regaled and +delighted by the natural floral fragrance, heliotrope, honeysuckle, +sweet pea, and orange blossoms predominating. The jasmine and Cape +rose, though less fragrant, are delightful to the eye, and cluster +everywhere among the hedges, groves, and coffee estates. There is a +blossoming shrub, the native name of which we do not remember, but +which is remarkable for its multitudinous crimson flowers, so +seductive to the humming-birds that they hover about it all day long, +burying themselves in its blossoms until petal and wing seem one. At +first upright, a little later the gorgeous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> bells droop downward and +fall to the ground unwithered, being poetically called Cupid's tears. +Flowers abound here which are only known to us in our hothouses, whose +brilliant colors, like those of the cactus, scarlet, yellow, and blue, +are quite in harmony with the surroundings, where everything is aglow. +There was pointed out to us a specimen of the frangipanni, a tall and +nearly leafless plant bearing a milk-white flower, and resembling the +tuberose in fragrance, but in form much like our Cherokee rose. This +plant, it will be remembered, was so abundant and so pleasant to the +senses as to attract the attention of the early explorers who +accompanied Columbus across the sea.</p> + +<p>There seems to be at times a strange narcotic influence in the +atmosphere of the island, realized more especially inland, where the +visitor is partially removed from the winds which commonly blow from +the Gulf in the after part of the day. So potent has the writer felt +this influence that at first it was supposed to be the effect of some +powerful and medicinal plant abounding in the neighborhood; but on +inquiry it was found that this delightful sense of ease and indolent +luxuriousness was not an unusual experience, particularly among +strangers, and was solely attributable to the narcotic of the soft +climate. By gently yielding to this influence one seemed to dream +while awake, and though the sense of hearing is diminished, that of +the olfactories appears to be increased, and pleasant odors float on +every passing breeze. One feels at peace with all human nature, and a +sense of voluptuous ease overspreads the body. Others have experienced +and remarked upon this sensation of idle happiness. The only +unpleasant realizing sense during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> the enjoyment of this condition is +the fear that some human voice, or some chance noise, loud and abrupt, +may arouse the dreamer from his trance.</p> + +<p>Specimens of the Indian fig, as it is called here, will be sure to +attract the visitor's eye on his inland excursions. It clasps, +entwines, and finally, serpent-like, kills the loftiest forest +monarchs, and taking their place, firmly roots itself and becomes a +stately tree, fattening upon its ill-gotten possession. Its unfading +leaf of vivid green is beautiful to look upon, in spite of its known +and treacherous character. In many respects it typifies the Spanish +discoverers of this beautiful isle, who gradually possessed themselves +of its glorious heritage by the destruction of its legitimate owners.</p> + +<p>The manner in which that prolific tree, the cocoanut palm, is +propagated was a curious and interesting study for a leisure hour, the +germination having been with us heretofore an unsolved riddle. Within +the hard shell of the nut, among the mass of rich creamy substance, +near the large end, is a small white lump like the stalk of a young +mushroom, called the ovule. This little finger-like germ of the future +tree gradually forces itself through one of the three eyes always to +be found on the cocoanut. What giant power is concealed within that +tiny ovule, apparently so soft and insignificant! Having pierced its +way through the first shell, it then gradually rends the outer coat of +fibrous covering and curves upward towards the light. Into the inner +shell which it has vacated, it throws little fibrous threads which +slowly absorb the albumen, and thus sustain its new life as it rapidly +develops. First a few leaves grow upward, which from the very outset +begin to assume the pinnate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> form of the cocoanut leaf, while, +stretching earthward, a myriad of little threads of roots bury +themselves in the ground. Though the tree will grow to a height of +sixty feet or more, these roots will never individually exceed the +size of the fingers on one's hand. In five or six years the tree will +produce its first cluster of cocoanuts, and for several years will go +on increasing in fruitfulness and yielding a bountiful crop for fifty +or sixty years. It was a constant wonder how these cocoanut trees +could sustain an upright position with such a weight of ripening fruit +clustered beneath the shade of their tufted tops.</p> + +<p>As regards the cost of living in the island, it may be said to average +higher to the stranger than in the United States. At the city hotels +and large boarding houses the charge is modified from four or five +dollars per day; if a special bargain is made for a considerable +period, it is customary to give a reduction on transient rates of ten +or fifteen per cent. Among the small towns in the interior, at the +houses of entertainment, which are wretchedly poor as a rule, the +charges are exorbitant, and strangers are looked upon as fair game. +This, however, is no more so than in continental Europe, where, though +the accommodations are better, the general treatment is the same. The +luscious and healthful fruits of the country form a large share of the +provisions of the table in Cuba, and are always freely provided. A +fair quality of claret wine, imported from Spain, is also regularly +placed before the guest free of charge, it being the ordinary drink of +the people; but beware of calling for other wines, and particularly +champagne, unless you are prepared to be swindled by the price charged +in your bill. Of course you get only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> imitation champagne,—that is to +be expected; you do the same nearly everywhere. There is not enough +pure champagne manufactured in Europe to supply the Paris and London +markets alone. The mode of cooking is very similar to the French, plus +the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime +necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba, +however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table +which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content +to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the +curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to +compensate for many small annoyances.</p> + +<p>One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on +the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated +about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by +rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that +between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the +result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over +nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently +demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The +water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly +depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three +or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines +is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on +the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by +Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary +for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is +impossible to find in the metropolis.</p> + +<p>Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious +place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives +indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling +combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds +become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could +not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other +in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as +long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and +the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of +gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these +contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being +reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted +priest, as eager in the result as the professionals themselves. The +cock-pit is a circular building, thirty or forty feet in diameter, +resembling on the outside a huge haystack. The size, however, is +regulated according to the population of the immediate neighborhood. +The seats are raised in a circle, one above another, about a central +ring in which the contest takes place. The ground is covered with +sawdust or tan. The birds are of a native game breed, and are subject +from chickenhood to a peculiar course of treatment. The English +game-cock is prized here only for crossing with the native breed. He +cannot equal the Spanish bird in the necessary qualities of pluck and +endurance.</p> + +<p>The food of the game-cock when in training is regulated with great +care, carefully weighed, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> certain number of ounces is given to +him three times a day, so that the bird, like a race-horse, is never +permitted to grow fat, but is kept in what is called fighting +condition. Some days before a contest they are fed with a few ounces +of raw meat once during the twenty-four hours, which, being kept +always a little hungry, they devour with avidity. Greater care as to +diet and exercise could not be taken by pugilists training for a +conflict. The feathers of these fighting-cocks are closely cropped in +a jaunty style; the neck and head, to the length of three inches, is +completely plucked of all feathers, the comb being trimmed close to +the crown. The flesh which is thus left bare is daily rubbed with rum +until it becomes hardened and calloused. Brief encounters are +permitted among them under proper restrictions, when they are young. +No fear is felt that they will seriously injure each other, until they +are old enough to have the sharp steel gaffs affixed upon the spurs +with which nature has supplied them. Then, like men armed with sword +and dagger, they attack each other with fatal earnestness, making the +blood flow at every stroke. It is singular that the birds are so +determined upon the fight that no amount of loud cries, or challenges +between the betters, or jeers by the excited audience, disturbs them +in the least.</p> + +<p>The author witnessed one of these exhibitions at Guines. The +fighting-ring of the cock-pit was some twelve feet in diameter, the +seating capacity being arranged for about a hundred persons or more, +and each bench was fully occupied. The two birds pitted against each +other were carefully weighed, and the result was announced to the +audience. They were then passed in review, held in the hands of their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +respective owners, and betting at once commenced as to which would +win the victory. In the mean time the two birds seemed quietly +awaiting their time, and by the knowing way in which both surveyed the +surroundings and the assembled people, they really appeared as if they +understood the business in hand. There was no struggling on their part +to get out of the hands of those who held them. Presently they were +passed into the care of the umpires, two of whom officiated, and who +then affixed the steel gaffs to the spurs of the contestants. The two +birds were then placed on the ground inside of the ring, opposite each +other. No sooner did they feel themselves fairly on their feet than +both crowed triumphantly, eying each other with fell intent.</p> + +<p>Then commenced a series of bird-tactics, each partially advancing and +pretending to retreat as if to draw on his antagonist, pecking the +while at imaginary kernels of corn on the ground. In the mean time the +audience almost held its breath in anticipation of the cunningly +deferred onset. Presently the two birds, as if by one impulse, rushed +towards each other, and a simultaneous attack took place. The contest, +when the birds are armed with steel gaffs, rarely lasts more than +eight or ten minutes before one or both are so injured as to end the +fight. The money staked upon the fight is won by those backing the +bird which survives, or is longest in dying. When the artificial spurs +are not used, and the birds fight in their natural state, the battle +sometimes lasts for an hour, but is always fatal in the end to one or +the other, or both. Eyes are pecked out, wings and legs broken, necks +pierced again and again; still they fight on until death ensues. +During the fight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> the excitement is intense, and a babel of voices +reigns within the structure, the betting being loud, rapid, and high. +Thus in a small way the cock-fight is as cruel and as demoralizing as +that other national game, the terrible bull-fight, indigenous to Spain +and her colonies.</p> + +<p>Cuba has justly been called the garden of the world, perpetual summer +smiling upon its shores, and its natural wealth and possibilities +baffling even the imagination. The waters which surround it, as we +have seen, abound with a variety of fishes, whose bright colors, +emulating the tints of precious stones and the prismatic hues of the +rainbow, astonish and delight the eye of the stranger. Stately and +peculiar trees enliven the picturesque landscape. Throughout the woods +and groves flit a variety of birds, whose dazzling colors defy the +palette of the artist. Here the loquacious parrot utters his harsh +natural notes; there the red flamingo watches by the shore of the +lagoon, the waters dyed by the reflection of his scarlet plumage. It +would require a volume to describe the vegetable and animal kingdom of +Cuba, but among the most familiar birds are the golden robin, the +bluebird, the catbird, the Spanish woodpecker, the gaudy-plumed +paroquet, and the pedoreva, with its red throat and breast and its +pea-green head and body. There is also a great variety of wild +pigeons, blue, gray, and white; the English lady-bird, with a blue +head, scarlet breast, and green and white back; the indigo-bird, the +golden-winged woodpecker, the ibis, and many smaller species, like the +humming-bird. Of this latter family there are said to be sixty +different varieties, each sufficiently individualized in size and +other peculiarities to be easily identified by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> ornithologists. Some +of these birds are actually no larger in body than butterflies, and +with not so large a spread of wing. A humming-bird's nest, composed of +cotton interlaced with horse-hair, was shown the author at Buena +Esperanza, a plantation near Guines. It was about twice the size of a +lady's thimble, and contained two eggs, no larger than common peas. +The nest was a marvel of perfection, the cotton being bound cunningly +and securely together by the long horse-hairs, of which there were not +more than three or four. Human fingers could not have done it so +deftly. Probably the bird that built the nest and laid the eggs did +not weigh, all fledged, over half an ounce! Parrots settle on the sour +orange trees when the fruit is ripe, and fifty may be secured by a net +at a time. The Creoles stew and eat them as we do pigeons; the flesh +is tough, and as there are plenty of fine water-fowl and marsh birds +about the lagoons as easily procured, one is at a loss to account for +the taste that leads to eating parrots. The brown pelican is seen in +great numbers sailing lazily over the water and dipping for fish.</p> + +<p>Strange is the ubiquity of the crows; one sees them in middle India, +China, and Japan. They ravage our New England cornfields, and in +Ceylon,—equatorial Ceylon,—they absolutely swarm. When one, +therefore, finds them saucy, noisy, thieving, even in Cuba, it is not +surprising that the fact should be remarked upon, though here the +species differs somewhat from those referred to, being known as the +Jack-crow or turkey-buzzard. In the far East, like the vulture, the +crow is considered a natural scavenger or remover of carrion, and the +same excuse is made for him in Cuba and Florida. But is he not more of a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +freebooter and feathered bandit,—in short, a prowling thief +generally? Nature has few birds or animals upon her varied list with +which we would find fault, but the crow,—well, having nothing to say +in its favor, let us drop the subject. Parrots, paroquets, tiny indigo +birds, pedorevas, and robins,—yes, these are all in harmony with +mingled fragrance and sunshine, but the coal-black crow, with his bad +habits and hoarse bird-profanity, bah! When these West Indian islands +were first settled by Spanish emigrants, they were the home of myriads +of birds of every tropical variety, but to-day the feathered beauties +and merry songsters have been entirely driven away from some of the +smaller islands, and decimated on others, by the demand for bird's +wings with which to deck ladies' bonnets in Europe and America. +Sportsmen have found it profitable to visit the tropics solely for the +purpose of shooting these rainbow-colored creatures for ornaments. +Aside from the loss to general interest and beauty in nature caused by +this wholesale destruction of the feathered tribe, another and quite +serious result has been the consequence. A plague of vermin has +followed the withdrawal of these little insect-killers. It is so +natural to look for them amid such luxuriant vegetation that they +become conspicuous by their absence. Now and again, however, the ears +are gratefully saluted by the trilling and sustained notes of some +hidden songster, whose music is entirely in tune with the surrounding +loveliness, but truly delightful song-birds have ever been rare in the +low latitudes, where there is more of color than song.</p> + +<p>Those agriculturists who possess sufficient means confine themselves +solely to the raising of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, the former +principally employing capital. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +Indian corn, which the first settlers +found indigenous here, is quite neglected, and when raised at all it +is used before ripening, almost universally, as green fodder; very +little is ripened and gathered as grain. It is found that horses and +cattle can be kept in good condition and strength, while performing +the usual labor required of them, by feeding them on a liberal +allowance of cornstalks, given in the green state, before the corn has +begun to form on the cob. The Cubans will tell you that the nourishing +principle which forms the grain is in the stalk and leaves, and if fed +in that state before ripening further, the animals obtain all the +sustaining properties which they require. The climate is particularly +adapted to the raising of oranges, but there is very little attention +given to propagating this universally popular fruit, more especially +since the increased production which has taken place on the other side +of the Gulf Stream in Florida. Three years after the seed of this +fruit is deposited in suitable soil in Cuba the tree becomes ten or +twelve feet in height, and in the fourth year rarely produces less +than a hundred oranges, while at ten years of age it commonly bears +three and four thousand, thus proving, with proper care, extremely +profitable. It will be remembered that it is the longest lived of +succulent fruit trees. There are specimens still extant in Cuba known +to be one hundred years old. The oranges produced in Florida are of +equally good quality, and bring a better price in the market, but the +crop is subject to more contingencies and liability to loss than in +Cuba. The frost not infrequently ruins a whole season's yield in the +peninsula in one or two severe nights, while frost is never +experienced upon the island.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +It seems unreasonable that when the generous, fruitful soil of Cuba is +capable of producing two or three crops of vegetables annually, the +agricultural wealth of the island should be so poorly developed. +Thousands upon thousands of acres of fertile soil are still in their +virgin condition. It is capable of supporting a population of almost +any density,—certainly from eight to ten millions of people might +find goodly homes here, and yet the largest estimate at the present +time gives only a million and a half of inhabitants. When one treads +the fertile soil and beholds the clustering fruits in such abundance, +the citron, the star-apple, the perfumed pineapple, the luscious +banana, and other fruits for which our language has no name, not +forgetting the various noble woods which caused Columbus to exclaim +with pleasure, and to mention the palm and the pine growing together, +characteristic types of Arctic and equatorial vegetation, we are +struck with the thought of how much Providence and how little man has +done for this Eden of the Gulf. We long to see it peopled by men who +can appreciate the gifts of nature, men who are willing to do their +part in recognition of her fruitfulness and who will second her +spontaneous bounty.</p> + +<p>Nowhere on the face of the globe would well-directed, intelligent +labor meet with a richer reward, nowhere would repose from labor be so +sweet. The hour of rest here sinks upon the face of nature with a +peculiar charm; the night breeze, in never-failing regularity, comes +with its gentle wing to fan the weary frame, and no danger lurks in +its breath. It has free scope through the unglazed windows, and +blowing fresh from the broad surface of the Mexican Gulf, it bears a +goodly tonic to the system. Beautifully blue<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> are the heavens and +festally bright the stars of a tropical night, where familiar +constellations greet us with brighter radiance and new ones charm the +eye with their novelty. Preëminent in brilliancy among them is the +Southern Cross, a galaxy of stars that never greets us in the North. +At midnight its glittering framework stands erect. That solemn hour +past the Cross declines. How glorious the nights where such a heavenly +sentinel indicates the watches! "How often have we heard our guides +exclaim in the savannas of Venezuela," says Humboldt, "or in the +deserts extending from Lima to Truxillo, 'Midnight is past, the Cross +begins to bend.'" Cuba is indeed a land of enchantment, where nature +is beautiful and bountiful, and where mere existence is a luxury, but +it requires the infusion of a sterner, a more self-reliant, +self-denying and enterprising race to test its capabilities and to +astonish the world with its productiveness.</p> + + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Traveling by Volante. — Want of Inland Communication. — +Americans Profitable Customers. — The Cruel National Game. +— The Plaza de Toros. — Description of a Bull-Fight. — The +Infection of Cruelty. — The Romans and Spaniards Compared. +— Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" — Women at the +Fight. — The Nobility of the Island. —The Monteros. — +Ignorance of the Common People. — Scenes in the Central +Market, Havana. — Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. — An Original +Style of Dude. — A Mendicant Prince. +</div> + +<p>The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only +one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of. +It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches +are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present +notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique +vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its +extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the +peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At +first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards +in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to +ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is +most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the +deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently +its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every +impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is very +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> +light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When +traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast +of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and +traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the +left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the +vehicle.</p> + +<p>If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and +there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often +added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the +shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the +calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great +pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented +for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes +even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed +negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or +silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the +knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more +especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the +freight.</p> + +<p>Were it not for the few railroads and steamboat routes which are +maintained, communication between the several parts of the island +would be almost impossible. During the rainy season especially, inland +travel is impracticable for wheels. China or Central Africa is equally +well off in this respect. Nearly all transportation, except it be on +the line of the railroads, is accomplished on mule-back, or on the +little Cuban horses. The fact is, road making is yet to be introduced +into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in +the environs of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed +of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in +America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the +island than this absence of means for internal communication. In +Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford +facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was +first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most +bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was +the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of +property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city +proper.</p> + +<p>One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the +traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon +him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the +government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a +considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps +visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to +desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such +idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in +Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority. +Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor +desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh +permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show +your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which +you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says +it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at +police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> is quite as +uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must +hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the +contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are +sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your +correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well +as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the +receipt thereof.</p> + +<p>Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight +is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its +indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibitions are given at +Havana on each recurring Sunday afternoon, the same day that is chosen +for the brutal sport in Madrid and other Spanish peninsular cities. +The arena devoted to this purpose will seat about ten thousand +persons. The ground upon which the fight takes place occupies about an +acre, and is situated on the Regla side of the harbor, in the Plaza de +Toros. The seats are raised one above another, in a complete circle, +at a secure height from the dangerous struggle. Sometimes, in his +furious onslaughts, the bull throws himself completely over the stout +boards which separate him from the spectators, when a wild stampede +occurs.</p> + +<p>On the occasion of the fight witnessed by the author, after a shrill +flourish of trumpets a large bull was let loose from apartments +beneath the seats, the door of which opened into the arena. The poor +creature came from utter darkness, where he had been kept for many +hours, into a blaze of bright sunlight, which confused him for a +moment, and he pawed the ground excitedly, while he rolled his big +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +fierce eyeballs as though he suspected some trick had been played upon +him. Presently, having become accustomed to the light, he glared from +one side to the other as if to take in the situation, and see who it +was that dared to oppose him.</p> + +<p>In the ring, distributed here and there, were some half a dozen +professional fighters on foot, called banderilleros and chulos, +besides which there were two on horseback, known as picadors. The +former held scarlet flags in their hands, with which to confuse and +tease the bull; the latter were armed with a long pole each, at the +end of which was a sharp piece of steel capable of wounding the bull, +but not deeply or dangerously. These fighters were a hardened set of +villains, if the human countenance can be relied upon as showing forth +the inner man. They rushed towards the animal and flaunted their flags +before his eyes, striving to excite and draw him on to attack them. +They seemed reckless, but very expert, agile, and wary. Every effort +was made to worry and torment the bull to a state of frenzy. Barbs +were thrust into his neck and back by the banderilleros, with small +rockets attached. These exploded into his very flesh, which they +burned and tore. Thrusts from the horsemen's spears also gave harsh, +if not dangerous wounds, so that the animal bled freely at many +points.</p> + +<p>When the infuriated beast made a rush at one of his tormentors, they +adroitly sprang on one side, or, if too closely pressed, these +practiced athletes with a handspring leaped over the high board fence. +Whichever way he turned the bull met a fresh enemy and another device +of torment, until at last the poor creature was frantically mad. The +fight then became<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> more earnest, the bull rushing first at one and +then another of his enemies, but the practiced fighters were too wary +for him; he could not change position so quickly as they could. +Finally, the bull turned his attention to the horses and made madly +first at the one which was nearest, and though he received a tearing +wound along his spine from the horseman's spear, he ripped the horse's +bowels open with his horns and threw him upon the ground, with his +rider under him. The men on foot rushed to the rescue and drew off the +bull by fresh attacks and by flaunting the flags before his eyes. In +the mean time, the rider was got out from beneath the horse, which lay +dying. The bull, finding that he could revenge himself on the horses, +transferred his attention to the other and threw him to the ground +with his rider, but received another long wound upon his own back. +Leaving the two horses lying nearly dead, the bull again turned upon +the banderilleros, rushing with such headlong speed at them that he +buried his sharp horns several inches in the timbers of the fence. It +was even a struggle for him to extract them. The purpose is not to +give the bull any fatal wounds, but to worry and torment him to the +last degree of endurance. This struggle was kept up for twenty minutes +or more, when the poor creature, bleeding from a hundred wounds, +seemed nearly exhausted. Then, at a sign from the director, there was +a grand flourish of trumpets, and the matador, a skillful swordsman +and the hero of the occasion, entered the ring to close with the bull, +singly. The other fighters withdrew and the matador advanced with a +scarlet flag in one hand and his naked sword in the other. The bull +stood at bay, too much worn by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> the fight and loss of blood to +voluntarily attack this single enemy. The matador advanced and lured +him to an attack by flaunting his flag. A few feeble rushes were made +by the bleeding animal, until, in a last effort to drive his horns +into this new enemy, he staggered heavily forward. This time the +matador did not leap to one side, but received the bull upon the point +of his Toledo blade, which was aimed at a spot just back of the horns, +where the brain meets the spinal column. As the bull comes on with his +head bent down to the charge, this spot is exposed, and forms a fair +target for a practiced hand. The effect was electrical. The bull +staggered, reeled from side to side for an instant, and then fell +dead. Four bulls were destroyed in a like manner that afternoon, and, +in their gallant fight for their lives, they killed seven horses, +trampling their riders in two instances almost fatally, though they +are protected by a sort of leather armor on their limbs and body. +During the fight with the second bull, which was an extremely fierce +and powerful creature, a young girl of eighteen dressed in male +attire, who was trained to the brutal business, took an active part in +the arena with the banderilleros. One remarkable feat which she +performed was that of leaping by means of a pole completely over the +bull when he was charging at her. At Madrid, where the author +witnessed a similar exhibition, the introduction of a young girl among +the fighters was omitted, but otherwise the performance was nearly +identical. At the close of each act of the murderous drama, six horses +gayly caparisoned with bells and plumes dashed into the arena led by +attendants, and chains being attached to the bodies of the dead +animals, they were drawn out <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>at great speed through a gate opened for +the purpose, amid another flourish of trumpets and the shouts of the +excited multitude.</p> + +<p>The worst of all this is that the influence of such outrageous cruelty +is lasting. It infects the beholders with a like spirit. In fact, it +is contagious. We all know how hard the English people became in the +time of Henry VIII. and Bloody Mary.</p> + +<p>In this struggle of the bull ring there is no gallantry or true +bravery displayed on the part of the professional fighters. They run +but little personal risk, practiced as they are, sheltered and +protected by artificial means and armed with keen weapons, whereas the +bull has only his horns to protect himself from his many tormentors. +There is no possible escape for him; his fate is sealed from the +moment he enters the ring. All the true bravery exhibited is on his +part; he is always the attacking party, and were the exhibition to be +attempted in an open field, even armed as they are, he would drive +every one of his enemies out of sight. The much-lauded matador does +not take his position in front of the animal until it is very nearly +exhausted by loss of blood and long-continued, furious fighting. In +our estimation, he encounters far less risk than does the humblest of +the banderilleros or chulos, who torment the bull face to face in the +fullness of his physical strength and courage. Still, instances are +not wanting wherein these matadors have been seriously wounded and +even killed by a frantic and dying bull, who has roused himself for a +last final struggle.</p> + +<p>Whatever colonial modification the Spanish character may have +apparently undergone in Cuba, the Creole is Castilian still in his +love for the cruel sports <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>of the arena. Great is the similitude also +between the modern Spaniard and the ancient Roman in this respect. As +the Spanish language more closely resembles Latin than does the +Italian, so do the Spanish people show more of Roman blood than the +natives of Italy themselves. <i>Panem et circenses</i> (bread and +circuses!) was the cry of the old Roman populace, and to gratify their +wishes millions of sesterces were lavished, and hecatombs of human +victims slain in the splendid amphitheatres erected by the masters of +the world in all the cities subject to their sway. And so <i>pan y +toros</i> (bread and bulls!) is the imperious demand of the Spaniards, to +which the government is forced to respond. The parallel may be pursued +still further. The proudest ladies of Rome, maids and matrons, gazed +with liveliest interest upon the dying gladiators who hewed each other +in pieces, or on the Christians who perished in conflict with the wild +beasts, half starved to give them battle. So the señoras and señoritas +of Madrid, Seville, Malaga, and Havana enjoy, with keen delight, the +terrible spectacle of bulls slaughtered by picadors and matadors, and +gallant horses ripped up and disemboweled by the horns of their brute +adversaries. It is true that the ameliorating spirit of Christianity +is evinced in the changes which the arena has undergone. Human lives +are no longer designedly sacrificed wholesale in the bloody contests, +yet the bull-fight is sufficiently barbarous and atrocious. It is a +national institution, indicative of national character.</p> + +<p>To look upon the serenity of Cuban ladies, driving in the Paseo or +listening to the nightly music in the Plaza de Isabella, one could not +possibly imagine them to be lacking in tenderness, or that there was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +in them sufficient hardihood to witness such exhibitions as we have +described, and yet one third of the audience on the occasion spoken of +was composed of the gentler sex. They are almost universally handsome, +being rather below the average height of the sex with us, but +possessing an erect and dignified carriage. Their form, always rounded +to a delicate fullness, is quite perfection in point of model. Their +dark hair and olive complexions are well matched,—the latter without +a particle of natural carmine. The eyes are a match for the hair, +being large and beautifully expressive, with a most irresistible dash +of languor in them,—but not the languor of illness. It is really +difficult to conceive of an ugly woman with such eyes as they all +possess in Cuba,—the Moorish, Andalusian eye. The Cuban women have +also been justly famed for their graceful carriage, and it is indeed +the poetry of motion, singular as it may appear, when it is remembered +that for them to walk abroad is such a rarity. It is not the simple +progressive motion alone, but also the harmonious play of features, +the coquettish undulation of the face, the exquisite disposition of +costume, and the modulation of voice, that engage the beholder and +lend a happy charm to every attitude and every step.</p> + +<p>The gentlemen as a rule are good-looking, though they are much +smaller, lighter, and more agile than the average American. The lazy +life they so universally lead tends to make them less manly than a +more active one would do. It seems to be a rule among them never to do +for themselves that which a slave can do for them. This is +demonstrated in the style of the volante, where the small horse is +made not only to draw the vehicle, but also to carry a large <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>negro on +his back as driver. Now, if reins were used, there would be no +occasion for the postilion at all, but a Spaniard or Creole would +think it demeaning to drive his own vehicle. With abundance of +leisure, and the ever present influences of their genial clime, where +the heart's blood leaps more swiftly to the promptings of the +imagination and where the female form earliest attains its maturity, +the West Indians seem peculiarly adapted for romance and for love. The +consequent adventures constantly occurring among them often culminate +in startling tragedies, and afford plots in which a French +feuilletonist would revel.</p> + +<p>The nobility of Cuba, so called, is composed of rather homespun +material, to say the least, of it. There may be some fifty individuals +dubbed with the title of marquis, and as many more with that of count, +most of whom have acquired their wealth and position by carrying on +extensive sugar plantations. These are sneeringly designated by the +humble classes as sugar noblemen, and not inappropriately so, as +nearly all of these aristocratic gentlemen have purchased their titles +outright for money. Not the least consideration is exercised by the +Spanish throne as to the fitness of these ambitious individuals for +honorary distinction. It is a mere question of money, and if this be +forthcoming the title follows as a natural sequence. Twenty-five +thousand dollars will purchase any title. Such things are done in +other lands, but not quite so openly. And yet the tone of Cuban +society in its higher circles is found to be rather aristocratic and +exclusive. The native of Old Spain does not endeavor to conceal his +contempt for foreigners of all classes, and as to the Creoles, he simply +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +scorns to meet them on social grounds, shielding his +inferiority of intelligence under a cloak of hauteur, assuming the +wings of the eagle, but possessing only the eyes of the owl. Thus the +Castilians and Creoles are ever at antagonism, both socially and +politically. The bitterness of feeling existing between them can +hardly be exaggerated. The sugar planter, the coffee planter, the +merchant, and the liberal professions stand in the order in which we +have named them, as regards their relative degree of social +importance, but wealth, in fact, has the same charm here as elsewhere +in Christendom, and the millionaire has the entrée to all classes.</p> + +<p>The Monteros or yeomanry of the island inhabit the less cultivated and +cheaper portions of the soil, entering the cities only to dispose of +their surplus produce, and acting as the marketmen of the populous +districts. When they stir abroad, in nearly all parts of the island, +they are armed with a sword, and in the eastern sections about +Santiago, or even Cienfuegos, they also carry pistols in the holsters +of their saddles. Formerly this was indispensable for self-protection, +but at this time weapons are more rarely worn. Still the arming of the +Monteros has always been encouraged by the authorities, as they form a +sort of militia at all times available against negro insurrection, a +calamity in fear of which such communities must always live. The +Montero is rarely a slaveholder, but is frequently engaged on the +sugar plantations during the busy season as an overseer, and, to his +discredit be it said, he generally proves to be a hard taskmaster, +entertaining an intuitive dislike to the negroes.</p> + +<p>An evidence of the contagious character of cruelty <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>was given in a +circumstance coming under the author's observation on a certain +plantation at Alquizar, where a manifest piece of severity led him to +appeal to the proprietor in behalf of a female slave. The request for +mercy was promptly granted, and the acting overseer, himself a +mulatto, was quietly reprimanded for his cruelty. "You will find," +said our host, "that colored men always make the hardest masters when +placed over their own race, but they have heretofore been much +employed on the island in this capacity, because a sense of pride +makes them faithful to the proprietor's interest. That man is himself +a slave," he added, pointing to the sub-overseer, who still stood +among the negroes, whip in hand.</p> + +<p>The Montero sometimes hires a free colored man to help him in the +planting season on his little patch of vegetable garden, in such work +as a Yankee would do for himself, but these small farmers trust mostly +to the exuberant fertility of the soil, and spare themselves all +manual labor, save that of gathering the produce and taking it to +market. They form, nevertheless, a very important and interesting +class of the population. They marry very young, the girls at thirteen +and fifteen, the young men from sixteen to eighteen, and almost +invariably rear large families. Pineapples and children are a +remarkably sure crop in the tropics. The increase among them during +the last half century has been very large, much more in proportion +than in any other class of the community, and they seem to be +approaching a degree of importance, at least numerically, which will +render them eventually like the American farmers, the bone and sinew +of the land. There is room enough for them <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>and to spare, for hardly +more than one tenth of the land is under actual cultivation, a vast +portion being still covered by virgin forests and uncleared savannas. +The great and glaring misfortune—next to that of living under a +government permitting neither civil nor religious liberty, where +church and state are alike debased as the tools of despotism,—is +their want of educational facilities. Books and schools they have +none. Barbarism itself is scarcely less cultured. We were told that +the people had of late been somewhat aroused from this condition of +lethargy concerning education, and some effort has recently been made +among the more intelligent to afford their children opportunities for +instruction. But at the present writing, the Egyptian fellah is not +more ignorant than the rural population of Cuba, who as a mass possess +all the indolence and few of the virtues of the aborigines.</p> + +<p>There is one highly creditable characteristic evinced by the Monteros +as a class, and that is their temperate habits in regard to indulgence +in stimulating drinks. As a beverage they do not use ardent spirits, +and seem to have no taste or desire for the article, though they drink +the ordinary claret—rarely anything stronger. This applies to the +country people, not to the residents of the cities. The latter quickly +contract the habit of gin drinking, as already described. There is one +prominent vice to which the Monteros are indisputably addicted; +namely, that of gambling. It seems to be a natural as well as a +national trait, the appliances for which are so constantly at hand in +the form of lottery tickets and the cock-pits that they can hardly +escape the baleful influences. There are some who possess sufficient +strength of character and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>intelligence to avoid it altogether, but +with the majority it is the regular resort for each leisure hour. One +of their own statesmen, Castelar, told the Spaniards, not long since, +that gambling was the tax laid upon fools.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the best place at which to study the appearance and character +of the Monteros is at the Central Market, where they come daily by +hundreds from the country in the early morning to sell their produce, +accompanied by long lines of mules or horses with well-laden panniers. +It is a motley crowd that one meets there, where purchasers and +salesmen mingle promiscuously. From six to nine o'clock, <span class='smcap'>a. m.</span>, it is +the busiest place in all Havana. Negroes and mulattoes, Creoles and +Spaniards, Chinamen and Monteros, men and women, beggars, purchasers, +and slaves, all come to the market on the Calzada de la Reina. Here +the display of fruits and vegetables is something marvelous, both in +variety and in picturesqueness of arrangement. This locality is the +natural resort of the mendicants, who pick up a trifle in the way of +provisions from one and another, as people who do not feel disposed to +bestow money will often give food to the indigent. This market was the +only place in the city where it was possible to purchase flowers, but +here one or two humble dealers came at early morn to dispose of such +buds and blossoms as they found in demand. A blind Chinese coolie was +found sitting on the sidewalk every morning, at the corner of the +Calzada de la Reina, just opposite the market, and he elicited a +trifle from us now and again. One morning a couple of roses and a +sprig of lemon verbena were added to his small gratuity. The effect +upon that sightless countenance was electrical, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>the poor +mendicant, having only pantomime with which to express his delight, +seemed half frantic. The money fell to the ground, but the flowers +were pressed passionately to his breast.</p> + +<p>Did it remind him, we thought, of perfumes which had once delighted +his youthful senses in far-off Asia, before he had been decoyed to a +foreign land and into semi-slavery, to be deprived of health, liberty, +sight, hope, everything?</p> + +<p>The Cuban beggars have a dash of originality in their ideas as to the +successful prosecution of their calling; we mean those "native and to +the manor born." Some of them possess two and even three cadaverous +dogs, taught to follow closely at their heels, as they wander about, +and having the same shriveled-up, half-starved aspect as their +masters. One beggar, who was quite a cripple, had his daily seat in a +sort of wheelbarrow, at the corner of Paseo Street, opposite the Plaza +de Isabella. This man was always accompanied by a parrot of gaudy +plumage, perched familiarly on his shoulder. Now and then the cripple +put some favorite bird-food between his own lips, which the parrot +extracted and appropriated with such promptness as to indicate a good +appetite. Another solicitor of alms, quite old and bent, had an +amusing companion in a little gray squirrel, with a collar and string +attached, the animal being as mischievous as a monkey, now and then +hiding in one of the mendicant's several pockets, sometimes coming +forth to crack and eat a nut upon his owner's shoulder. A blind +beggar, of Creole nationality, sat all day long in the hot sun, on the +Alameda de Paula near the Hotel San Carlos, whose companion was a +chimpanzee monkey. The little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>half-human creature held out its hand +with a piteous expression to every passer-by, and deposited whatever +he received in his master's pocket. These pets serve to attract +attention, if not commiseration, and we observed that the men did not +beg in vain.</p> + +<p>The acme of originality, however, was certainly reached in the case of +a remarkable Creole beggar whose regular post is on the west corner of +the Central Market. This man is perhaps thirty-five or forty years of +age, and possesses a fine head, a handsome face, and piercing black +eyes. He is of small body, and his lower limbs are so withered as to +be entirely useless; so he sits with them curled up in a low, broad +basket, in which he is daily brought to the spot, locomotion in his +case being out of the question. He wears the cleanest of linen, and +his faultless cuffs and ruffled shirt-bosom are decked with solid gold +studs. He is bareheaded, but his thick black hair is carefully +dressed, and parted with mathematical precision in the middle. He +wears neither coat nor vest, but his lower garments are neatly adapted +to his deformity, and are of broadcloth. This man does not utter a +word, but extends his hand pleasantly, with an appealing look from his +handsome eyes, which often elicits a silver real from the passer-by. +We acknowledge to having been thus influenced more than once, in our +morning walks, by a sympathy which it would be difficult to analyze. +We had seen a colored dude selling canes at Nassau, but a dude +mendicant, and a cripple at that, was a physical anomaly.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Introduction of Sugar-Cane. — Sugar Plantations. — Mode of +Manufacture. — Slaves on the Plantations. — African +Amusements. — The Grinding Season. — The Coffee +Plantations. — A Floral Paradise. — Refugees from St. +Domingo. — Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. — Three +Staple Productions of Cuba. — Raising Coffee and Tobacco. — +Best Soils for the Tobacco. — Agricultural Possibilities. — +The Cuban Fire-Fly. — A Much-Dreaded Insect. — The Ceiba +Tree. — About Horses and Oxen. +</div> + +<p>The first sugar plantation established in Cuba was in 1595, nearly +three hundred years since. These plantations are the least attractive +in external appearance, but the most profitable pecuniarily, of all +agricultural investments in the tropics, though at the present writing +there is a depression in prices of sugar which has brought about a +serious complication of affairs. The markets of the world have become +glutted with the article, owing to the enormous over-production in +Europe from the beet. The plantations devoted to the raising of the +sugar-cane in Cuba spread out their extensive fields, covered with the +corn-like stalks, without any relief to the eye, though here and there +the graceful feathery branches of the palm are seen. The fields are +divided off into squares of three or four acres each, between which a +roadway is left for ox-teams to pass for gathering purposes. On some +of the largest estates tramways have been laid, reaching from the +several sections of the plantation to the doors of the grinding-mill. +A mule, by this means, is enabled to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>draw as large a load as a pair +of oxen on plain ground, and with much more ease and promptness.</p> + +<p>About the houses of the owner and the overseer, graceful fruit trees, +such as bananas and cocoanuts, with some flowering and fragrant +plants, are grouped, forming inviting shade and producing a +picturesque effect. Not far away, the low cabins of the blacks are +half hidden by plantain and mango trees, surrounded by cultivated +patches devoted to yams, sweet potatoes, and the like. Some of the +small gardens planted by these dusky Africans showed judgment and +taste in their management. Chickens and pigs, which were the private +property of the negroes, were cooped up just behind the cabins. Many +of these plantations employ from four to five hundred blacks, and in +some instances the number will reach seven hundred on extensive +estates, though the tendency of the new and improved machinery is to +constantly reduce the number of hands required, and to increase the +degree of intelligence necessary in those employed. Added to these +employees there must also be many head of cattle,—oxen, horses, and +mules. The annual running expenditure of one of these large estates +will reach two hundred thousand dollars, more or less, for which +outlay there is realized, under favorable circumstances, a million +five hundred thousand pounds of sugar, worth, in good seasons, five +cents per pound at the nearest shipping point.</p> + +<p>There are a few of the small estates which still employ ox-power for +grinding the cane, but American steam-engines have almost entirely +taken the place of animal power; indeed, as we have shown, it will no +longer pay to produce sugar by the primitive processes. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +This creates a constant demand for engineers and machinists, for whom the Cubans +depend upon this country. We were told that there were not less than +two hundred Bostonians at the present time thus engaged on Cuban +estates. A Spaniard or Creole would as soon attempt to fly like a bird +as to learn how to run a steam-engine or regulate a line of shafting. +It requires more intelligence and mechanical skill, as a rule, than +the most faithful slaves possess. A careful calculation shows that in +return for the services of this small band of employees taken from our +shores, this country takes eighty per cent. of all the sugar produced +upon the island! Twelve per cent. is consumed by peninsular Spain, +thus leaving but eight per cent. of this product for distribution +elsewhere.</p> + +<p>During the grinding season, which begins about the first of December +and ends in April, a large, well-managed sugar plantation in Cuba is a +scene of the utmost activity and most unremitting labor. Time is +doubly precious during the harvesting period, for when the cane is +ripe there should be no delay in expressing the juice. If left too +long in the field it becomes crystallized, deteriorating both in its +quality and in the amount of juice which is obtained. The oxen +employed often die before the season is at an end, from overwork +beneath a torrid sun. The slaves are allowed but four or five hours +sleep out of the twenty-four, and being worked by watches during the +night, the mill does not lie idle for an hour after it is started +until the grinding season is closed. If the slaves are thus driven +during this period, throughout the rest of the year their task is +comparatively light, and they may sleep ten hours out of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> +twenty-four, if they choose. According to the Spanish slave +code,—always more or less of a dead letter,—the blacks can be kept +at work in Cuba only from sunrise to sunset, with an interval of two +hours for repose and food in the middle of the day. But this is not +regarded in the sugar harvest season, which period, after all, the +slaves do not seem so much to dread, for then they are granted more +privileges and are better fed, given more variety of food and many +other little luxuries which they are known to prize.</p> + +<p>On Sunday afternoons and evenings on most of the plantations the +slaves are given their time, and are permitted, even in the harvest +season, to amuse themselves after their own chosen fashion. On such +occasions the privilege is often improved by the blacks to indulge in +native African dances, crude and rude enough, but very amusing to +witness. The music for the dancers is supplied by a home-made drum, +and by that alone, the negro who plays it being to the lookers-on +quite as much of a curiosity as those who perform the grotesque +dances. This humble musician writhes, wriggles, twists himself like a +corkscrew, and all the while beats time, accompanying his notes with +cries and howls, reminding one of the Apache Indian when engaged in a +war dance. It is astonishing to witness to what a degree of excitement +this negro drummer will work himself up, often fairly frothing at the +mouth. A buxom wench and her mate step forward and perform a wild, +sensuous combination of movements, a sort of negro can-can, like those +dancing girls one sees in India, striving to express sentiments of +love, jealousy, and passion by their pantomime, though these negroes +are far less refined in their gestures. When these two are exhausted, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +others take their place, with very similar movements. The same +drummer labors all the while, perspiring copiously, and seeming to get +his full share of satisfaction out of the queer performance. This is +almost their only amusement, though the Chinese coolies who have been +distributed upon the plantations have taught the negroes some of their +queer games, one, particularly, resembling dominoes. The author saw a +set of dominoes made out of native ebony wood by an African slave, +which were of finer finish than machinery turns out, delicately inlaid +with ivory from alligators' teeth, indicating the points upon each +piece. We were told that the only tool the maker had with which to +execute his delicate task was a rude jack-knife. We have said that the +negroes find in the singular dance referred to their one amusement, +but they sometimes engage among themselves in a game of ball, after a +fashion all their own, which it would drive a Yankee base-ball player +frantic to attempt to analyze.</p> + +<p>The sugar-cane yields but one crop in a year. There are several +varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally +cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to +warrant the getting-up of steam at the grinding-mill and the time when +the heat and the rain spoil its qualities, all the sugar for the +season must be made; hence the necessity for great industry on the +large estates. In Louisiana the grinding season lasts but about eight +weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar +produced on the island and comparing it with that of the +mainland,—the growth of Louisiana,—chemists could find no difference +as to the quality of the true saccharine principle contained in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>each. +The Cuban sugar, compared with beet-sugar, however, is said to yield +of saccharine matter one quarter more in any given quantity.</p> + +<p>In society the sugar planter holds a higher rank than the coffee +planter, as we have already intimated; merely in the scale of wealth, +however, for it requires five times the capital to carry on a sugar +estate that would serve for a coffee estate. Some of the large sugar +plantations have been owned and carried on by Jesuit priests—we were +about to write ex-Jesuit priests, but that would not be quite correct, +for once a member of this order one is bound to it for all time. The +priest or acknowledged member of the organization may be forced for +prudential reasons to temporarily change his occupation, but he cannot +sever himself from the responsibilities which he has once voluntarily +assumed. There was a time when much of the landed and fertile property +of the island was controlled by the Church,—in fact owned by it, +though often by very questionable titles. The original owners, under +cunning pressure, perhaps on a threatened death-bed, were induced to +will all to the Church; or as an act of deep penance for some crime +divulged at the confessional, they yielded up all. To preserve this +property and possibly to cause it to produce an income for the Church, +certain priests became active planters. Extreme ecclesiastic rule, as +has been said, is greatly modified in Spain and her colonies, the +natural reaction of the hateful days of the Inquisition.</p> + +<p>As the sugar plantation surpasses the coffee in wealth, so the coffee +estate surpasses the sugar in every natural beauty and attractiveness. +A coffee plantation, well and properly laid out, is one of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>most +beautiful gardens that can well be conceived of, in its variety and +loveliness baffling description. An estate devoted to this purpose +usually covers a hundred acres, more or less, planted in regular +squares of one acre or thereabouts, intersected by broad alleys lined +with palms, mangoes, bananas, oranges, and other fruits; as the +coffee, unlike the sugar cane, requires partial protection from the +ardor of the sun. Mingled with the trees are lemons, limes, +pomegranates, Cape jasmines, and a species of wild heliotrope, +fragrant as the morning. Occasionally in the wide reach of the estate +there is seen a solitary, broad-spreading ceiba, in hermit-like +isolation from other trees, but shading a fragrant undergrowth. +Conceive of this beautiful arrangement, and then of the whole when in +flower; the coffee, with its milk-white blossoms, so abundant that it +seems as though a pure white cloud of snow had fallen there, and left +the rest of the vegetation fresh and green. Interspersed in these +fragrant alleys dividing the coffee plants is the red of the Mexican +rose, the flowering pomegranate, the yellow jasmine, and the large, +gaudy flower of the penon, shrouding its parent stem in a cloak of +scarlet. Here too are seen clusters of the graceful yellow flag, and +many wild flowers, unknown by name, entwining their tender stems about +the base of the fruit trees. In short, a coffee plantation is a +perfect floral paradise, full of fragrance and repose.</p> + +<p>The writer's experience was mainly gained at and about the estate of +the late Dr. Finley, a Scotch physician long resident upon the island. +He had named his plantation after the custom with a fancy title, and +called it Buena Esperanza. Here was seen the mignonette tree twenty +feet high, full of pale <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>yellow and green blossoms, as fragrant as is +its little namesake, which we put in our conservatories. There were +also fuchsias, blue, red, yellow, and green, this last hue quite new +to us. The night-blooming cereus was in rank abundance, together with +the flor de pascua, or Easter flower, so lovely in its cream-colored, +wax-like blossom. The Indian poui, with its saffron-colored flowers, +was strikingly conspicuous, and there too was that pleasant little +favorite, the damask rose. It seemed as if all out-doors was an exotic +garden, full of marvelous beauty. What daily miracles nature is +performing under our only half-observant eyes! Behold, where the paths +intersect each other, a beautiful convolvulus has entwined itself +about that dead and decaying tree, clothing the gray old trunk with +pale but lovely flowers; just as we deck our human dead for the grave.</p> + +<p>It was the revolution in San Domingo which gave the first great +stimulus to the culture of the coffee plant in Cuba, an enterprise +which has gradually faded out in the last decade, though not +absolutely obliterated. The refugees from the opposite shore sought +shelter wherever they could find it among the nearest islands of the +Archipelago, and large numbers made their new homes in the eastern +department of Cuba, near the cities of Trinidad and Santiago. Here +they turned lands which had been idle for three and four centuries +into smiling gardens, and the production of the favorite berry became +very profitable for a series of years, many cargoes being shipped +annually to this country from the two ports just named. The production +of sugar, however, has always maintained precedence, dividing the +honor to-day only with tobacco in the manufactured state. Coffee does +not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>figure to any extent in the statistics of exports. Exorbitant +taxation and the cruel ravages of civil war, in the coffee districts +especially, are largely the cause of the loss of an important and +profitable industry.</p> + +<p>Some amusing experiments with a mimosa or sensitive plant served to +fill a leisure hour at Buena Esperanza, under our host's intelligent +direction. It grew wild and luxuriantly within a few feet of the broad +piazza of the country-house. Close by it was a morning-glory, which +was in remarkable fullness and freshness of bloom, its gay profuseness +of purple, pink, and variegated white making it indeed the glory of +the morning. It was a surprise to find the mimosa of such similar +habits with its neighbor, the morning-glory, regularly folding its +leaves and going to sleep when the shades of evening deepened, but +awaking bright and early with the first breath of the morn. So +sensitive is this most curious plant, so full of nerves, as our host +expressed it, that it would not only shrink instantly, like unveiled +modesty, at the touch of one's hand, but even at the near approach of +some special organisms, ere they had extended a hand towards it. Five +persons tried the experiment before the sixth illustrated the fact +that touch was not absolutely necessary to cause the leaves to shrivel +up or shrink through seeming fear. Our host even intimated that when +the mimosa had become familiar with a congenial person its timidity +would vanish, and it could be handled gently by that individual +without outraging its sensibility. Of this, however, we saw no +positive evidence. If Mr. Darwin had supplemented his chapters on the +monkey by a paper relating to the mimosa, he might possibly have +enabled us to find a mutual confirmation in them of some fine-spun +theory.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +The three great staple productions of Cuba are sugar, the sweetener; +coffee, the tonic; and tobacco, the narcotic of half the world. The +first of these, as we have shown, is the greatest source of wealth, +having also the preference as to purity and excellence over any other +saccharine production. Its manufacture also yields molasses, which +forms an important article of export, besides which a spirituous +liquor, called aguardiente, is distilled in considerable quantities +from the molasses. The cane, which grows to about the size of a large +walking-stick, or well-developed cornstalk, is cut off near the ground +and conveyed in the green state, though it is called ripe, to the +mill, where it is crushed to a complete pulp between stones or iron +rollers. After the juice is thus extracted the material left is spread +out in the sun to dry, and is after being thus "cured" used for fuel +beneath the steam-boilers, which afford both power to the engine and +the means of boiling the juice. Lime-water is employed to neutralize +any free acid as well as to separate the vegetable matter. The +granulation and crystallization are effected in large flat pans, or +now more commonly by centrifugal machines, rotating at great speed. It +is then crushed and packed either in hogsheads or in boxes for +exportation; canvas bags are also being largely employed, as they are +easier to pack on board ship, and also to handle generally. A +plantation is renewed when deemed necessary, by laying the green canes +horizontally in the ground, when new and vigorous shoots spring up +from every joint, showing the great fertility of the soil.</p> + +<p>Coffee was introduced by the French into Martinique in 1727, but it +did not make its appearance in Cuba until forty years later, or, to be +exact, in 1769. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>The decadence of this branch of agriculture is due +not only to the causes we have already named, but also to the inferior +mode of cultivation adopted on the island. It was predicted some years +before it commenced, and when the crash came the markets of the world +were also found to be greatly overstocked with the article. While some +planters introduced improved methods and economy in the conduct of +their estates, others abandoned the business altogether, and turned +their fields either into sugar-raising, fruits or tobacco. Precisely +the same trouble was experienced in the island of Ceylon, which was at +one time a great coffee-raising centre, but now its planters are many +of them abandoning the business, while others adopt new seed and new +methods of culture. In Cuba it was found that the plants had been +grown too closely together and subjected to too close pruning, while +the product, which was gathered by hand, yielded a mixture of ripe and +unripe berries. In the countries where coffee originated, a very +different method of harvesting is adopted. The Arabs plant the +coffee-shrubs much farther apart, allow them to grow to considerable +height, and gather the crop by shaking the tree, a method which +secures only the ripe berries. After a few weeks, or even days, the +field is gone over a second time, when the green berries have become +fit to gather, and readily fall to the ground.</p> + +<p>A coffee estate well managed, that is, combined with the rearing of +fruits and vegetables intermingled, thus affording the required shade +for the main crop, proves fairly profitable in Cuba to-day, and were +this industry not hampered and handicapped by excessive taxes, it +would attract many new planters. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>coffee ripens from August to +December, the nuts then becoming about the size of our cherries. The +coffee-berry is the seed of the fruit, two of which are contained in +each kernel, having their flat surfaces together, surrounded by a soft +pulp. The ripe berries are dried by exposure to the sun's rays, then +bruised in a mill, by which means the seeds are separated from the +berry. They are then screened to cleanse them, after which they are +bagged, and the coffee is ready for market. Some planters take great +care to sort their crop by hand, in which operation the negro women +become very expert. By dividing the berries into first and second +qualities as to size and cleanliness, a better aggregated price is +realized for the entire harvest. Not only are the coffee estates much +more pleasing to the eye than the sugar plantations, but they are also +much more in harmony with the feelings of the philanthropist. There is +here no such exigency in getting in the harvest, leading to the +overwork of the slaves, as on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +Indeed, we were assured that it was quite possible to carry on a +coffee estate with white labor. When, heretofore, a negro has been +brought to the block in Havana, or any other Cuban city, the price +realized for him has always been materially affected by the question +whether he had been employed on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +If he had been thus employed it was considered that his life has been +unduly shortened, and he sold accordingly at a lower price. At the +present time few negroes are bought or sold, as their market value has +become merely nominal. There is no good reason why white labor is not +suited to the coffee and tobacco estates. When the field labor upon the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> +sugar estates is almost wholly performed by machinery, that is, +the cane cut by a reaper, there will be so much less exposure to the +sun that white hands, under proper management, can perform it.</p> + +<p>Tobacco, indigenous to both Cuba and the United States, is a great +source of revenue upon the island. Its cultivation involves +considerable labor and expense, as the soil must be carefully chosen +and prepared, and the crop is an exhaustive one to the land; but the +cultivation does not require machinery, like sugar-cane, nor quite so +much care as does the growing coffee. It is valued in accordance with +the locality from which it comes, some sections being especially +adapted to its production. That of the greatest market value, and used +in the manufacture of the highest-cost cigars, is grown in the most +westerly division of the island, known as the Vuelta de Abajo (Lower +Valley). The whole western portion of Cuba is not by any means +suitable to the production of tobacco. The region of the best tobacco +is comprised within a small parallelogram of very limited extent. +Beyond this, up to the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine +color, but of inferior aroma. From Consolacion to San Christoval the +tobacco is very "hot,"—to use a local phrase,—harsh, and strong, and +from San Christoval to Guanajay the quality is inferior up to Holguin +y Cuba, where better tobacco is produced. The fertile valley of Los +Guines produces poor smoking-tobacco, but an article excellent for the +manufacture of snuff. On the banks of the Rio San Sebastian, are also +some estates which produce the very best quality of tobacco. Thus +it will be seen that certain properties of soil operate more directly +in producing a fine grade of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>tobacco than any slight variation of +climate. Possibly a chemical analysis of the soil of the Vuelta de +Abajo would enable the intelligent cultivator to supply to other lands +the ingredients wanted to make them produce equally good tobacco. A +fairly marketable article, however, is grown in nearly any part of the +island. Its cultivation is thought to produce a full ten per cent. +upon the capital invested, the annual crop of Cuba being estimated in +value at about twenty-three million dollars. The number of tobacco +planters is said to be about fifteen thousand, large and small. On +many tobacco farms the labor is nearly all performed by white hands. +Some coolies and some negroes are also employed even on small estates.</p> + +<p>When it is remembered that so small a portion of the land is under +cultivation, and yet that Cuba exports annually a hundred million +dollars worth of sugar and molasses, besides coffee, tobacco, fruits, +and precious woods, it will be realized what might be accomplished, +under a liberal system of government, upon this gem of the Caribbean +Sea. Cacao, rice, plantains, indigo, and cotton, besides Indian corn +and many nutritious vegetables, might be profitably cultivated to a +much larger degree than is now done. It is a curious and remarkable +fact, suggesting a striking moral, that with the inexhaustible +fertility of the soil, with an endless summer that gives the laborer +two and even three crops a year, agriculture generally yields in Cuba +a lower percentage of profit than in our stern Northern latitudes, +where the farmer has to wrench, as it were, the half-reluctant crop +from the ground. It must be remembered that in Cuba there are numerous +fruits and vegetables not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>enumerated in these pages, which do not +enter into commerce, and which spring spontaneously from the fertile +soil. In the possession of a thrifty population the island would be +made to blossom like a rose, but as it now is, it forms only a garden +growing wild, cultivated here and there in patches. None of the fine +natural fruits have ever been improved by careful culture and the +intelligent selection of kinds, so that in many respects they will not +compare in perfection with our average strawberries, plums, pears, and +peaches. Their unfulfilled possibilities remain to be developed by +intelligent treatment.</p> + +<p>The plantain, which may be said to be the bread of the common people, +requires to be planted but once. The stem bears freely, like the +banana of the same family, at the end of eight months, and then +withering to the ground renews itself again from the roots. Sweet +potatoes once planted require care only to prevent their too great +luxuriance, and for this purpose a plough is passed through them +before the wet season, and as many of the vines as can be freely +plucked up are removed from the field. The sugar-cane, on virgin soil, +will last and prove productive for twenty years. The coffee shrub or +tree will bear luxuriantly for forty or fifty years. The cocoanut palm +is peculiar to all tropical climates, and in Cuba, as in the Malacca +Straits and India, bears an important share in sustaining the life of +the people, supplying milk, shade, and material for a hundred domestic +uses. It grows in luxuriant thriftiness all over the island, in high +and low land, in forests, and down to the very shore washed by the +Gulf Stream. It is always graceful and picturesque, imparting an +oriental aspect to everything which surrounds it. It is estimated +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +that over ten million acres of native forests, covered by valuable +wood, still remain untouched by the woodman's axe, especially on and +about the mountain range, which extends nearly the entire length of +the island, like the vertebræ of an immense whale.</p> + +<p>About the coffee plantations, and indeed throughout the rural portions +of the country, there is a curious little insect called a cocuyo, +answering in its general characteristics and nature to our firefly, +though it is quadruple its size, and far the most brilliant insect of +its kind known to naturalists. They float in phosphorescent clouds +over the vegetation, emitting a lurid halo, like fairy torch-bearers +to elfin crews. One at first sight is apt to compare them to a shower +of stars. They come in multitudes immediately after the wet season +sets in, prevailing more or less, however, all the year round. Their +advent is always hailed with delight by the slave children, as well as +by children of a larger growth. They are caught by the slaves in any +desired numbers and confined in tiny cages of wicker, giving them +sufficient light in their cabins at night for ordinary purposes, and +forming the only artificial light permitted them. We have seen a +string of the little cages containing the glittering insects hung in a +slave-cabin in festoons, like colored lamps in fancy-goods stores in +America. The effect of the evanescent light thus produced is very +peculiar, but the number of insects employed insures a sufficiently +steady effect for ordinary purposes. These little creatures are +brought into Havana by young Creole children and by women, for sale to +the ladies, who sometimes in the evenings wear a small cage hung to +the wrist containing a few of the cocuyos, and the light thus produced +is nearly equal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>to a small candle. Some ladies wear a belt of them at +night, ingeniously fastened about the waist, others a necklace, and +the effect is highly amusing. In the ballroom they are worn in the +flounces of ladies' dresses, where they glisten very much like +diamonds and other precious stones. Strange to say, there is a natural +hook near the head of the firefly, by which it can be attached to the +dress without apparent injury to it. The town ladies keep little cages +of these insects as pets, feeding them on sugar, of which they appear +to be immoderately fond. On the plantations, when a fresh supply is +desired, one has only to wait until evening, when hundreds can be +secured with a thread net at the end of a pole. By holding a cocuyo up +in the out-door air for a few moments, large numbers are at once +attracted to the spot. In size they are about an inch long, and a +little over an eighth of an inch in breadth.</p> + +<p>There is an insidious and much dreaded insect with which the planters +have to contend on the sugar and coffee plantations, but which is not +met with in the cities; namely, the red ant, a much more formidable +foe than any one not acquainted with its ravages would believe. These +little creatures possess a power altogether out of proportion to their +insignificant size, eating into the heart of the hardest wood, neither +cedar, iron-wood, nor even lignum-vitæ being proof against them. They +are not seen at the surface, as they never touch the outer shell of +the wood whose heart they are consuming. A beam or rafter which has +been attacked by them looks as good as when new, to the casual +observer, until it is sounded and found to be hollow, a mere shell in +fact. Even in passing from one piece of timber to another, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>the red +ant does so by covered ways, and is thus least seen when most busy. +The timbers of an entire roof have been found hollowed out and +deprived entirely of their supporting strength without the presence of +the insect enemy being even suspected until chance betrayed the +useless character of the supports. For some unknown reason, upright +timbers are rarely attacked by them, but those in a reclining or +horizontal position are their choice. These destructive red ants are +nearly always to be found in tropical countries, as in India, Batavia, +and Sumatra, where they build mounds in the jungle half the size of +the natives' cabins. They may be seen marching like an invading army +in columns containing myriads across the fields of southern India.</p> + +<p>The interior landscape, more particularly of the middle district of +the island, is here and there ornamented by fine specimens of the +ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, which is often seen a hundred feet in +height, with stout and widespread branches, giving the idea of great +firmness and stability. It sends up a massive sinewy trunk for some +fifty feet, when it divides into branches covered with a dense canopy +of leaves, expanded like an umbrella, and forming a perfect shade +against the power of the torrid sun. The ceiba is slow of growth, but +attains to great age, specimens thriving when Columbus first landed +here being, as we were assured, still extant. Next to the royal palm, +it is the most remarkable of all the trees which loom up beneath the +brilliant purple skies of Cuba. The negroes have a superstition that +the ceiba is a magic tree haunted by spirits, a singular notion also +shared by the colored people of Nassau, though these two islands are +so many hundreds of miles apart <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>and have never had any natural +connection. There is certainly something weird in the loneliness and +solitary grandeur of the tree. Next to the palm and ceiba in beauty +and picturesqueness of effect is the tamarind tree, with its deep +green and delicate foliage, presenting a singular and curious aspect +when thickly looped on every branch with hanging chocolate-colored +pods.</p> + +<p>Under the noonday sun, sitting in the deep shade of some lofty ceiba, +one may watch with curious eyes the myriads of many-hued, broad-winged +butterflies, mingling orange, crimson, and steel-blue in dazzling +combinations, as they flit through the ambient atmosphere with a +background of shining, evergreen foliage, the hum of insects and the +carol of birds forming a soft lullaby inviting sleep. Naturalists tell +us that no less than three hundred distinct species of butterflies are +found in Cuba, ranging in size from a common house-fly to a +humming-bird. The day dies with a suddenness almost startling, so that +one passes from sunshine to starlight as if by magic. Then the cocuyo +takes up the activity of insect life, flashing its miniature torches +over the plantations, and peeping out from among the dense foliage, +while the stars sing their evening hymn of silent praise.</p> + +<p>The Cubans have a peculiar mode of harnessing their oxen, similar to +that seen in the far East and also in some parts of Europe, as at San +Sebastian, on the Bay of Biscay. A stout wooden bar is placed at the +root of the horns, and so securely bound to them with thongs that the +animal draws, or rather pushes, by the head and frontlet, without +chafing. The Cuban oxen have a hole pierced in their nostrils, through +which a metallic ring is secured, and to this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>a rope is attached, +serving as reins with which to guide the animal. This mode of +harnessing certainly seems to enable the oxen to bring more strength +to bear upon the purpose for which they are employed than when the +yoke is placed, as is the case with us, about the throat and +shoulders. The greatest power of horned animals undoubtedly lies in +the head and neck, and the question arises whether in placing the yoke +on the neck and breast we do not get it out of reach of the exercise +of that strength, and cause the animal to draw the load behind him by +the mere force of his bodily weight and impetus. The West Indian +animal is small, and often of the cream-colored breed, mild-eyed and +docile, of which one sees such choice specimens in Italy and +especially on the plains of Lombardy.</p> + +<p>Not quite satisfied with the conclusion first arrived at, we gave this +subject of the harnessing of oxen a second consideration, and in +carefully watching the operation of the frontlet-bar we detected at +least one very cruel and objectionable feature in this mode of +harnessing. The animals are necessarily so bound to the bar that to +move their heads one way or the other is a simple impossibility, while +our mode of yoking oxen leaves them very much at liberty in the use of +their heads, thus enabling them to shake off flies and other biting +insects which may tease them, whereas the eyes of a Cuban ox are often +seen infested with flies which he cannot get rid of while in harness, +however he may be beset by them. This alone, in a climate where biting +insects swarm all the year round, is a most serious objection to the +frontlet-bar as compared with the yoke.</p> + +<p>The Cuban horse deserves more than a mere mention<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> in this connection. +He is a remarkably valuable animal, especially adapted to the climate +and to the service required of him. Though small and delicate of limb +he can carry a great weight, and his gait is not unlike that of our +pacing horses, though with much less lateral motion, and is remarkably +easy for the rider, certainly forming the easiest gait combined with +rapidity of motion possessed by any breed. He has great power of +endurance, is a small eater, requiring no grain as a general thing, +but is satisfied with the green leaves and stalks of the corn, upon +which he keeps in good condition and flesh. He is a docile little +creature, easily taught and easily taken care of. The Cuban horse +knows no shelter except the heavens above him, for there are no barns +in Cuba; but he will no more wander away from his master's door, where +he stands at nearly all hours of the day with the saddle on his back, +than would a favorite dog. The Montero inherits all the love of his +Moorish ancestors for the horse, and never stirs abroad except upon +his back. He considers himself established for life when he possesses +a good horse, a sharp Toledo blade, and a pair of silver spurs. Being +from childhood accustomed to the saddle, it is natural for him to be a +good rider, and there are none better even in Arabia. He is apt to +tell big stories about his little horse, intimating its descent direct +from the Kochlani, or King Solomon's breed, and to endow it with +marvelous qualities of speed and endurance. The Montero is never heard +to boast of his wife, his children, or any other possession, but he +does "blow" for his horse.</p> + +<p>One of this class stood beside his pony one warm afternoon opposite +the Hotel Telegrafo, where a few <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>of the guests were seated under the +broad veranda. The sleek, well-formed animal elicited some +complimentary remarks, which gratified the owner, who spoke English +after the style of his people. He indulged in praises of the horse, +especially as to the ease and steadiness of his gait, and offered a +bet that he could ride round the outside of the Campo de Marte on him +and return to the spot where he stood, at ordinary speed, carrying a +full glass of water without spilling a tablespoonful of the liquid; +such is the ease of motion of these animals trained to what is called +the paso gualtrapeo. Four corners were to be turned by the Cuban, as +well as half a mile of distance accomplished. The small bet suggested +was readily taken, and the full tumbler of water brought out of the +house. The Cuban mounted his pony and rode round the park with the +speed of a bird, easily winning his bet.</p> + +<p>The visitor, as he proceeds inland, will frequently observe on the +fronts of the dwellings attempts at representations in colors of birds +and various animals, resembling anything rather than what they are +apparently designed to depict. The most striking characteristics are +the gaudy coloring and the remarkable size. Pigeons present the +colossal appearance of ostriches, and dogs are exceedingly elephantine +in their proportions. Space would not be adequate to picture horses +and cattle. Especially in the suburbs of the cities this fancy may be +observed, where attempts at portraying domestic scenes present some +original ideas as to grouping. If such ludicrous objects were to be +met with anywhere else but in Cuba they would be called caricatures. +Here they are regarded with the utmost complacency, and innocently +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +considered to be artistic and ornamental. Noticing something of the +same sort in Vevay, Switzerland, not long since, the author found on +inquiry that it was the incipient art effort of a Spanish Creole, who +had wandered thither from the island.</p> + +<p>The policy of the home government has been to suppress, so far as +possible, all knowledge of matters in general relating to Cuba; +especially to prevent the making public of any statistical information +regarding the internal resources, all accounts of its current growth, +prosperity, or otherwise. Rigidly-enforced rules accomplished this +seclusiveness for many years, until commercial relations with the +"outside barbarians" rendered this no longer possible. No official +chart of Havana, its harbor, or that of any other Cuban city has ever +been made public. Spain has seemed to desire to draw a curtain before +this tropical jewel, lest its dazzling brightness should tempt the +cupidity of some other nation. Notwithstanding this, our war +department at Washington contains complete drawings of every important +fortification, and charts of every important harbor in Cuba. Since +1867 we have been connected with Cuba by submarine cable, and through +her with Jamaica since 1870. The local government exercises, however, +strict surveillance over telegraphic communications.</p> + +<p>The political condition of Cuba is what might be expected of a +Castilian colony, ruled and governed by such a policy as prevails +here. Like the home government, she presents a remarkable instance of +the standstill policy, and from one of the most powerful and wealthy +kingdoms of Europe, Spain has sunk to the position of the humblest and +poorest. Other nations have labored and succeeded in the race of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +progress, while her adherence to ancient institutions and her +dignified contempt for "modern innovations" have become a species of +retrogression, which has placed her far below all her sister +governments. The true Hidalgo spirit, which wraps itself up in an +antique garb and shrugs its shoulders at the advance of other nations, +still rules over the realm of Ferdinand and Isabella, while its +high-roads swarm with gypsies and banditti, as tokens of decaying +power.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"> +Consumption of Tobacco. — The Delicious Fruits of the +Tropics. — Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. — +The Royal Palm. — The Mulberry Tree. — Silk Culture. — The +Island once covered by Forests. — No Poisonous Reptiles. — +The Cuban Bloodhound. — Hotbed of African Slavery. — +Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. — The Coolie System of +Slavery. — Ah-Lee draws a Prize. — Native African Races. — +Negroes buying their Freedom. — Laws favoring the Slaves. — +Example of St. Domingo. — General Emancipation. +</div> + +<p>The consumption of tobacco in the form of cigars is almost incredibly +large in Cuba, and for the city of Havana alone it has been estimated +to amount to an aggregate cost of five million dollars per annum. +Every man, woman, and child appears to be addicted to the habit. It +strikes a Northerner as rather odd for a lady to sit smoking her +cigarette in her parlor, but this is not at all rare. The men of all +degrees smoke everywhere, in the dwelling-house, in the street, in the +theatre, in the cafés, and in the counting-room; eating, drinking, +and truly it would also seem, sleeping, they smoke, smoke, smoke. At +the tables d'hôte of the hotels it is not unusual to see a Cuban take +a few whiffs of a cigarette between the several courses, and lights +are burning close at hand to enable him to do so. If a party of +gentlemen are invited to dine together, the host so orders that a +packet of the finest cigarettes is frequently passed to his guests, +with a lighted taper, in the course of the meal, and at its close some +favorite brand of the more substantial <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>cigar is furnished to all. +Thus, tobacco is consumed on every occasion, in the council-chamber, +the court, at funerals, in the domestic circles, at feasts, and on the +out-door drive. The slave and his master, the maid and her mistress, +boy and man, all, all smoke. It seems odd that one does not scent +Havana far out at sea before the land is sighted.</p> + +<p>We were told that gentlemen who have the means to procure them smoke +on an average what is equivalent to a dozen cigars per day, and those +of the other sex addicted to the habit consume half that quantity. Of +late the larger proportion, however, takes the form of cigarettes, +which are far more subtle in effect when used to excess. The +consequence of this large home consumption, in addition to the export +of the article, is that a very numerous class of the population is +engaged in the manufacture, and little stores devoted solely to this +business are plentifully sprinkled all about the metropolis. The +imperial factory of La Honradez, already described, occupies a whole +city square, and is one of its curiosities, producing from three to +four million cigarettes per diem. This house enjoys special +governmental protection, and makes its annual contribution to the +royal household of Madrid of the best of its manufactured goods. A +snuff-taker is rarely to be met with, and few, if any, chew the weed, +if we except the stevedores and foreign sailors to be seen about the +shore and shipping. Havana has no wharves, properly speaking; vessels +are loaded and discharged by means of lighters or scows. The negroes +become passionately fond of the pipe, inhaling into their lungs the +rich, powerful narcotic and driving it out again at their nostrils in +slow, heavy clouds, half dozing over the dreamy effect. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>The postilion +who waits for a fare upon the street passes half his time in this way, +dreaming over his pipe of pure Havana, or renewing constantly his +cigarette. The price of manufactured tobacco in Cuba is about one half +that which we pay for the same article in America, either at wholesale +or retail, as shipping expenses, export duty, and import duty must be +added to the price charged to the consumer.</p> + +<p>In discussing this habit one naturally looks back about four hundred +years, recalling the amazement of the Spanish discoverers, when they +first landed here, at seeing the Indians smoking a native weed which +was called tobacco. The practice was, at that time, entirely unknown +in Europe, though now indulged in as a luxury by nearly half the +population of the globe.</p> + +<p>We have only a partial idea at the North of the true character of +tropical fruits, since only a small portion of them are of such a +nature as to admit of exportation, and such as are forwarded to us +must be gathered in an unripe condition in order to survive a short +sea-voyage. The orange which we eat in Boston or New York, therefore, +is a very different-flavored fruit from the same when partaken of in +Havana or Florida. The former has been picked green and ripened on +shipboard, as a general thing; the latter was perhaps on the tree an +hour before you ate it, ripened under its native skies and upon its +parent stem. So of the banana, one of the most delightful and +nutritious of all West Indian fruits, which grows everywhere in Cuba +with prodigal profuseness,—though we are told that as regards this +fruit it is claimed that, like some varieties of our pear, it ripens +as well off the tree as on it; and the same is the case with some +other fleshy fruits. After <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>the banana has attained its full growth, +the final process of ripening commences, as it were, within itself; +that is to say, the fruit ceases to depend upon the tree for +sustenance or farther development. The pulp becomes gradually +sweetened and softened, chiefly by the change of the starch into more +or less of soluble sugar. When the bananas are shipped to our Northern +markets they are as green as the leaves of the trees on which they +grew. Most of us have seen cartloads of them in this condition landing +at our city wharves. Placed in an even temperature and in darkness +they will ripen and become as yellow as gold in a very few days.</p> + +<p>The banana and plantain differ from each other much as an apple and a +potato differ; the latter should always be cooked before eating, but +the former may be either eaten raw or cooked, according to the taste. +The banana is gathered at three different stages of its growth. At a +quarter of its maturity it is rather milky, and contains much starch. +Roasted in ashes, or boiled in water, it forms a very nourishing food, +and is a good substitute for bread. If eaten at three fourths of its +growth it is less nourishing, but contains more sugar. Lastly, when +perfectly ripe, it develops an acrid principle, both wholesome and +palatable. The fig banana is a favorite species, and forms a universal +dessert in the ripe state with the Creoles. A frequent reference is +made to it in these notes because of its importance. The enormous +productiveness of the plant and its nutritious character assure to the +humble classes an abundant subsistence. People may go freely into the +wild lands and find edible bananas at any time, without money and +without price. In the cities the charge for them is so moderate that a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +person must be poor indeed who cannot afford a liberal quantity of +them daily.</p> + +<p>Some of the other fruits are the mango, pomegranate, pineapple, +zapota, tamarind, citron, fig, cocoa, lemon, rose-apple, and +breadfruit. Japan, India, and Ceylon afford nothing more fascinating +or strange in their vegetable kingdoms than this favored isle. The +fruits are simply wonderful in variety and perfection. One eats eggs, +custard, and butter off the trees. Though all these fruits are +universally eaten, the orange seems to be the Creole's favorite, and +if he be a person of even ordinary means, he seldom rises in the +morning until he has drunk his cup of coffee and eaten a couple of +oranges, brought fresh and prepared for him by a servant. The practice +is one into which the visitor falls very pleasantly, and finds it no +less refreshing than agreeable. It seems to rain oranges in Havana. +They are scarcely less cheap than the luscious banana.</p> + +<p>The rose-apple grows on one of the most symmetrical trees in Cuba, +with strong, oval, glossy leaves. The blossoms are large, white, and +of pleasant odor, followed by a round fruit about as large as a +well-developed California peach, with a smooth skin, cream-colored +within and without. The pulp is as firm as a ripe seckel pear, and the +taste is so strong of otto-of-rose that more than one at a time palls +upon the palate. It is much used among the Cubans as an agreeable +flavoring for soups and puddings. Of the fruit trees the lemon is +perhaps the most attractive to the eye; for though small and dwarfish, +yet it presents the flowers, small green lemons, and the ripe yellow +fruit all together, reminding one of the Eastern alma. The green +leaves when young are nearly as fragrant as the lemon verbena.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> +The mammee is a curious fruit growing on lofty, umbrageous trees, +appearing as musk-melons would look if seen hanging in elm-trees. +Large and high-flavored, the fruit is solid in texture like the +American quince. The flavor of the mammee resembles our peach, though +not quite so delicate. Its color when ripe is a light yellow.</p> + +<p>The mango is nearly as abundant and prolific as the banana, and yet it +came originally from the far East. It grows upon a very handsome tree, +the leaves being long, lanceolate, polished, and hanging in dense +masses of dark-green foliage. In size it is like a full-grown New +England apple tree. The mango is about thrice the size of an egg plum, +and when ripe is yellow in color, and grows in long pendant bunches. +When this fruit is at its best it is very juicy, and may be sucked +away like a grape. The negroes are immoderately fond of it, and when +permitted to do so are apt to make themselves ill by their greediness.</p> + +<p>The cocoa-nut tree grows to the height of fifty feet and more, +differing from the royal palm by its drooping nature. At its summit is +a waving tuft of dark green, glossy, pinnate leaves, from ten to +fifteen feet in length, like mammoth plumes, immediately under which +are suspended the nuts in heavy bunches, often weighing three hundred +pounds. When the nut has attained nearly its full size, it is said to +be in the milk, and it then furnishes a delightful, cooling, and +healthful beverage. In taste it is sweetish, and its effect is that of +a slight diuretic.</p> + +<p>The sapotilla is a noble fruit tree, with feathery, glossy leaves. The +blossoms are white and bell-shaped, with an agreeable perfume like an +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +apple-blossom. The fruit is round, about the size of a peach, the +skin being rough and dark like a russet apple or a potato, but when +fully ripe it is delicious, and melts away in the mouth like a +custard.</p> + +<p>The pineapple, that king of fruits, though in itself presenting such a +fine appearance, is the plainest of all in its humble manner of +growth. It is found wild in Cuba, and there are several varieties +cultivated, none quite equal, it seemed to us, to those found in +Singapore and other equatorial islands. Its style of growth is the +same in either hemisphere. It grows singly upon its low stem, reaching +to a height of eighteen or twenty inches above the ground. A single +fruit-stem pushes up from the earth, blossoms, and in about eighteen +months from the planting it matures a single apple, weighing three or +four pounds and upwards; and what a royal fruit it is! A field well +covered with the yellow, ripening apples is a very beautiful sight. +Though the plant produces but one apple at a time, it will continue to +yield an annual crop for three or four years, if cultivated. It is +raised from slips, planted much as our farmers set out young cabbages +or lettuce.</p> + +<p>The custard-apple grows wild, but is also cultivated and thereby much +improved. Its color externally is green, and it has a tough skin, is +of a subacid flavor, and as full of little flat black seeds as a shad +is of bones. It is much used in Cuba for flavoring purposes, and is +soft and juicy, each specimen weighing from a pound to a pound and a +half. The star-apple is so called because when cut through +transversely its centre presents the figure of a star. Even when quite +ripe the interior is green in color. Its flavor is exquisite, like +strawberries and cream, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>it is eaten with a spoon, the outside +skin forming as it were a shell or cup.</p> + +<p>The guava tree is small and resembles our young cherry trees. The +fruit is about the size of the lime, which it much resembles. It is +made little use of in its natural condition, but is in universal +demand as a preserve; the jelly made from it is famous all over the +world. When it is freshly cut, one will scent a whole room for hours +with its distinctive flavor.</p> + +<p>The pomegranate, a general favorite in the torrid zone, flourishes in +Cuba, but is seen in much greater perfection in Africa. It is doubtful +if it is indigenous here, though it is now found in such abundance, +and as much depended upon for a food supply as apples are with us. +Doubtless the reader has seen the bush in bearing in our hothouses, +the fruit when cut being full of red seeds glistening like rubies.</p> + +<p>The tamarind is a universal and thrifty tree in the island, lofty and +umbrageous, a quick grower and yet long-lived. The fruit is contained +in a pod,—like a full, ripe pea-pod,—covering mahogany-colored +seeds. The pulp when ripe and fresh is as soft as marmalade, and quite +palatable; its flavor is sugared acid. Steeped in water it forms a +delightful and cooling beverage, much used as a drink in the tropics.</p> + +<p>The orange, lime, lemon, and citron are too well known to require +detailed description. The wild or bitter orange is much used for +hedges: its deep green glossy foliage and its fragrant blossoms and +its golden fruit make such hedges strikingly effective. The rind of +the bitter orange is used to make a sweetmeat with which we are all +familiar.</p> + +<p>More than once the Moorish garden of the Alcazar, at Seville, and the +garden of Hesperides, at Cannes, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>were recalled in hours of delightful +wanderings among the orange groves of Cuba. Yet these latter are +neglected, or at least not generously cultivated, no such care being +given to them as is bestowed upon the orange orchards of Florida; but +the glowing sun and ardent breath of the tropics ask little aid from +the hand of man in perfecting their products. The fruits and flowers +of the American Archipelago—"air-woven children of light"—are not +only lavishly prolific, but perfect of their kind. No wonder that +scientists and botanists become poetical in their descriptions of +these regions.</p> + +<p>The royal palm, so often alluded to, grows to the height of seventy +feet, more or less. It is singular that it should have no substance in +the interior of its trunk, though the outside to the thickness of a +couple of inches makes the finest of boards, and when seasoned is so +hard as to turn a board-nail at a single stroke of the hammer. It is +remarkable also that a palm tree which grows so high has such tiny, +thread-like roots, which, however, are innumerable. The top of the +palm yields a vegetable which is used as food and when boiled is +nutritious and palatable, resembling our cauliflower. Though there are +many species of palm in Cuba, one seldom sees the fan-palm, which +forms such a distinctive feature in equatorial regions as at Penang +and Singapore.</p> + +<p>Humboldt thought that the entire island was once a forest of palms, +mingled with lime and orange trees. The mulberry tree, if not +indigenous, was found here at so early a period that it is a matter of +doubt as to its having been imported from other lands. It grows to +great perfection, and has led to several attempts in the direction of +silk-raising, the silkworm also proving +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +more prolific even than in Japan. Some of the fine, hard fancy woods +of Cuba were employed in the finish of apartments in the Escurial +palace near Madrid. Ebony, rosewood, fustic, lancewood, mahogany, and +other choice woods are very abundant, especially the mahogany, which +grows to enormous size. The exportation of them has only taken place +where these woods were best located for river transportation to +harbors on the coast. The interior of the island is so inaccessible +that it has hardly been explored. There are fertile valleys there of +two hundred miles in length and thirty in width, with an average +temperature of 75°, a maximum of 88°, and a minimum of +52°, thus affording a most perfect and healthful climate, +favorable to human and to vegetable life, and it should be remembered +that malarial diseases or yellow fever are unknown in the districts +removed from the coast, and no one ever heard of sunstroke in Cuba.</p> + +<p>It is somewhat remarkable that there should be no poisonous animals or +reptiles in the island, but so we were creditably informed. Snakes of +various species abound, but are considered entirely harmless, though +they are sometimes destructive to domestic fowls. During a pleasant +trip between San Antonio and Alquizar in a volante with a hospitable +planter of that region, this subject happened to be under discussion, +when we saw in the roadway a snake six or eight feet long, and as +large round as the middle of one's arm. On pointing it out to our +friend, he merely told us its species, and declared that a child might +sleep with it unharmed. In the mean time it was a relief to see the +innocent creature hasten to secrete itself in a lime hedge close at +hand. Lizards, tarantulas, and chameleons +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +are frequently seen, but are considered to be harmless. One often +awakes in the morning to see lizards upon his chamber wall, searching +for flies and insects, upon which they feed.</p> + +<p>The Cuban bloodhound, of which we hear so much, is not a native of the +island, but belongs to an imported breed, resembling the English +mastiff, though with larger head and limbs. He is by nature a fierce, +bloodthirsty animal, but the particular qualities which fit him for +tracing the runaway slaves are almost entirely acquired by careful +training. This is accomplished by experts in the business, who are +sometimes Monteros, and sometimes French overseers of plantations who +are out of work or regular engagement. Each estate keeps some of these +dogs as a precautionary measure, but they are seldom called into use +of late, for so certain is the slave that he will be instantly +followed as soon as missed, and inevitably traced by the hounds, that +he rarely attempts to escape from his master unless under some +peculiarly aggravating cause. It may even be doubted whether a slave +would be pursued to-day were he to attempt to escape, because slavery +is so very near its last gasp. In one respect this is an advantage to +the negroes, since the master, feeling this indifference, grants the +blacks more freedom of action. So perfect of scent is the Cuban +bloodhound that the master has only to obtain a bit of clothing left +behind by the runaway and give it to the hound to smell. The dog will +then follow the slave through a whole population of his class, and +with his nose to the ground lead straight to his hiding-place.</p> + +<p>For three centuries Cuba has been the hotbed of African slavery. Few, +if any, have been imported <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>during the last thirty years, that is to +say since 1855, during which year some cargoes were successfully run. +In 1816, the Spanish government, in a solemn treaty, declared its +conviction of the injustice of the slave trade. On the 23d of +September, 1817, in consideration of four hundred thousand pounds +sterling paid as an equivalent by Great Britain, Spain ratified a +treaty proclaiming that the slave trade should cease throughout all +the dominions of that country on the 30th day of May, 1820, and that +it should not afterwards be lawful for any Spanish subject to purchase +slaves. It was further declared by the home government that all blacks +brought from Africa subsequent to that date should be at once set +free, and the vessel on which they were transported should be +confiscated, while the captain, crew, and others concerned should be +punished with ten years' penal servitude. Yet, as all the world knows, +this was nothing more than a dead letter so far as Cuba was concerned, +and so late as 1845, statistics show an arrival of imported slaves +from Africa of fifteen thousand negroes annually, for the previous +twenty years. Tacon, Governor-General from June, 1834, until April, +1838, like his predecessors and successors made no secret of receiving +seventeen dollars per head,—that is one doubloon,—on every slave +landed. Other officials spent their fees on themselves or hoarded them +for a fortune to be enjoyed on returning home to Spain, but Tacon +expended his in beautifying Havana and its environs. That the home +government secretly fostered the slave trade, notwithstanding the +solemn treaty entered into with Great Britain, no one pretends to +deny.</p> + +<p>The coolie system, which was latterly substituted +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> +for that of the importation of Africans, was commenced in 1847, but it was only +slavery under another form, being in point of humanity even more +objectionable. Fully seventy per cent. of the Chinese coolies died +during the eight years they were bound by their contract to serve +their masters! Even after that period was completed, unjust laws and +schemes were adopted to retain their services whenever the planters +desired it; but the truth is, the planters, after a thorough +experience, were generally glad to get rid of the Mongolians. All of +them were decoyed from home under false pretenses and large promises, +and only arrived in Cuba to find themselves virtually slaves. But +there was no help for them. They were thousands of miles from China, +in a land of whose language they knew nothing, and so they were +obliged to submit. If after their term of service expired they +succeeded in reaching Havana, or other Cuban cities, and by becoming +fruit peddlers or engaging in any other occupation tried to earn +sufficient money to carry them back to their native land, they still +were brutally treated by all parties, and were ever at the mercy of +the venal police. On the plantations they received perhaps a little +more consideration than the blacks, simply because they were less +tractable and more dangerous on account of their greater degree of +intelligence and keener sense of the wrong done them. The planter, +always short of laborers, has heretofore been willing to pay the +shipping-agencies four hundred dollars for a newly-arrived coolie, +whose services he thus secured for eight years, the coolies at the +expiration of the period to receive a mere nominal sum, out of which +they have mostly been cheated by some means or other. The whole +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> +business of coolie importation is vile beyond measure, and must have +included in its aggregate over three hundred thousand Chinese. There +are still believed to be some sixty thousand left upon the island, +most of whom remain because they have no means of returning to their +native land. Half of these subsist by begging. Broken in health and +spirits, they await the coming of that final liberator who is the last +friend of suffering humanity.</p> + +<p>The Chinese are best adapted to the work of the cigar factories, where +they excel in the occupation of cigar and cigarette making, and many +hundreds are thus employed in Havana. But they are totally unfit for +plantation labor, under the hardships of which their feeble frames +succumb. They prove themselves very good servants in the cities, being +very quick to learn, and ready to adapt themselves to any light +occupation. A Chinaman is sly, cunning, and, to a certain degree, +enterprising; but he must be trusted cautiously. As a house-servant, +footman, cook, or waiter he is admirable. Here, in this to him foreign +land, he cannot suppress his instinct for gambling; it seems to be +born in him, and he will often lose in an hour the hard accumulation +of months, or even years. As to the lottery, he is always the +purchaser of portions of tickets at every drawing, and occasionally +becomes a winner. A thrifty Chinaman, for there are some such even in +Havana, bearing the characteristic name of Ah-Lee, connected with a +bricabrac store on the Calzada de la Reina, held a lucky number in the +lottery drawn during our brief stay at the Hotel Telegrafo. When the +prizes were announced, he found that he was entitled to five hundred +dollars. The agents tried to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>pay Ah-Lee in Cuban currency, but he was +too smart for them, and showed them their own announcement promising +to cash all prizes, with the usual discount, in gold. So Ah-Lee got +his prize finally in gold. We were told by one whose experience was +extensive, and whose testimony was worthy of respect, that the coolies +would lie and steal with such apparent innocence as to deceive the +most wary, and that as regards their moral nature it seemed to be +totally undeveloped. For our own part we still sympathize with John. +He has been so outrageously cheated and abused from the hour when he +stepped on board the transport ship which brought him from China up to +the present time that he has learned the trick of it. If he is not +strong enough to demand his rights, we certainly hope that he may have +sufficient cunning to obtain them by outwitting his adversaries.</p> + +<p>In their slave condition the Chinese coolies and the negroes were at +times so affected by a spirit of superstition as to cause them to +commit suicide, the latter actuated, as it seemed, by a feeling of +despair, the former through a vindictive spirit towards their masters. +Both were also moved by a superstitious conviction that their spirits +would at once be returned to their native land, to inhabit a sort of +spirit paradise or intermediate state between earth and heaven. It is +very strange that so peculiar and so similar a belief should be +indigenous in the minds of such distinctive races. At the period when +the free importation from Africa was carried on, the most difficult +thing the planters had to contend with was a proneness to suicide on +the part of those slaves who were newly imported, and who entertained +this same remarkable idea.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> +Though we abhor the entire system of Cuban labor, yet it cannot be +denied that the slaves, so far as material comfort goes, are better +lodged, fed, and cared for than four fifths of the population of +Ireland and India, and, furthermore, this comparison will hold good as +regards a large portion of continental Europe. A well-fed, well-kept +negro is twice as valuable, twice as serviceable to his master as a +neglected one, and no one knows this better than the master who +governs his slaves on purely mercenary grounds, and is yet very +careful to supply liberally their physical wants. These slaves are +descended from various African tribes, whose characteristics are so +marked as to be easily discernible even by strangers. The Congoes are +small in stature, but very agile and good workers, and in past years +they have been a favorite tribe. The Fantees are a larger race of +negroes, hard to manage, and possessing a revengeful nature. Those +from the Gold Coast are still more powerful in body, but are +good-natured and well-liked by planters. The Ebros are less black than +those already named, almost mulatto in complexion, and make favorite +house servants. The Ashantees are of another prominent tribe, and are +also popular as plantation hands, but not numerous.</p> + +<p>The tattooed faces, bodies, and limbs of a large portion of the +slaves, especially of the hands upon the plantations, shows their +African nativity, while the smooth skin and generally greater degree +of intelligence of others show them to have been born in slavery upon +the island. These latter are mostly sought for service in the cities. +They are remarkably healthy when not overworked, and form the most +vigorous part of the population. When an epidemic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> +breaks out among the blacks, it seems to carry them off by wholesale, proving +much more fatal than among the whites. Cholera, small-pox, and pneumonia +sometimes sweep them off at a fearful rate. It is a curious fact that +if a negro is really ill, he requires just twice as much medicine to +affect him as a white person.</p> + +<p>There are said to be three hundred thousand free negroes on the +island, of whom comparatively few are found inland upon the +plantations; they are all inclined to congregate in the cities and +large towns, where, truth compels us to say, they prove to be an idle +and vicious class, and as a body useless both to themselves and to the +public. There are believed to be at present in Cuba about one hundred +and forty thousand male and about sixty thousand female slaves. To +carry on the great industry of the island as systematized by the +planters, this number of hands is entirely inadequate. It is sometimes +asked how there came to be so many free negroes in the island. It +should be clearly understood that the laws which govern Cuba are made +by the home government, not by the planters or natives of Cuba, and +that indirectly these laws have long favored emancipation of the +blacks. For many years any slave has enjoyed the right to go to a +magistrate and have himself appraised, and upon paying the price thus +set upon himself he can receive his free papers. The valuation is made +by three persons, of whom the master appoints one, and the magistrate +two. The slave may pay by installments of fifty dollars at a time, but +he owes his full service to his master until the last and entire +payment is made. If the valuation be twelve hundred dollars, after the +slave has paid one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>hundred he owns one twelfth of himself, and the +master eleven twelfths, and so on. Until all is paid, however, the +master's dominion over the slave is complete. There has also long been +another peculiar law in operation. A slave may on the same valuation +compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay the money +in full, and this has often been done where slave and master disagree. +This law, as will be seen, must have operated as it was designed to +do, as a check upon masters, and as an inducement for them to remove +special causes of complaint and dissatisfaction. It has also enabled +slaveholders of the better class, in the case of ill-usage of blacks, +to relieve them by paying down their appraised value and appropriating +their services to themselves. All this relates to the past rather than +the present, since, as we have explained, the relationship of slave +and master is now so nearly at an end as to render such arrangements +inoperative.</p> + +<p>There was a law promulgated in 1870,—the outgrowth of the revolution +of 1868, which dethroned Isabella II.,—declaring every slave in Cuba +to be free after reaching the age of sixty, and also freeing the +children of all slaves born subsequent to that year. But that law has +been ignored altogether, and was not permitted even to be announced +officially upon the island. In the first place, few hard worked slaves +survive to the age of sixty; and in the second place, the children +have no one to look after or to enforce their rights. Spain never yet +kept troth with her subjects, or with anybody else, and the passage of +the law referred to was simply a piece of political finesse, designed +for the eye of the European states, and more particularly to soothe +England, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>which country had lately showed considerable feeling and +restlessness touching the disregard of all treaties between herself +and Spain.</p> + +<p>The slaves who still remain upon the plantations appear in all outward +circumstances to be thoughtless and comparatively content; their light +and cheerful nature seems to lift them above the influence of brutal +treatment when it is encountered. That they have been called upon to +suffer much by being overtasked and cruelly punished in the past, +there is no doubt whatever, but it may be safely stated that their +condition has been greatly improved of late. The owners are obliged by +law to instruct the slaves in the Catholic faith, but this has never +been heeded to any extent by the planters, though all the children are +baptized in infancy. The law relative to the treatment of the negroes +also prescribes a certain quantity and quality of food to be regularly +furnished to them, but the masters are generally liberal in this +respect, and exceed the requirements of the law, as their mercenary +interest is obviously in that direction. The masters know by +experience that slaves will not work well unless well fed. With no +education or culture whatever, their intelligence remains at the +lowest ebb. "With plenty of food and sleep," said an owner to us, +"they are as easily managed as any other domestic animals."</p> + +<p>Until latterly the slaves have been carefully watched at night, but +nearly all these precautions against their escaping from servitude +seem to have been dropped. They are no longer locked up in corral, +their special night quarters. Of course they are kept within certain +bounds, but the rigorous surveillance under which they have always +lived is no longer in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>force. The two sexes are nominally separated, +but as there is no strict recognition of the marital relation, and +free intercommunication between them really exists, the state of +morality may be imagined. It has always been customary for mothers to +receive certain consideration and partial relief from hard labor +during a reasonable period prior to and subsequent to their +confinement, with encouraging gifts from the masters, which has caused +them generally to covet the condition of maternity. Still the +proportion of female slaves on the plantations has always been so +small, compared with that of the other sex, that not nearly so many +children are born as would be supposed. Female slaves have generally +been sent to town service, even when born on the plantations.</p> + +<p>It has always been clearly understood that the births on the part of +the negroes in Cuba have not nearly kept pace with the number of +deaths among them, even under apparently favorable circumstances. One +has not far to look for the reason of this. Promiscuous intercourse is +undoubtedly the predisposing cause, which is always an outgrowth of a +largely unequal division of the sexes. On the plantations the male +negroes outnumber the females ten to one. In the cities the males are +as five to one. When the slave trade was carried on between Africa and +the island, the plan was to bring over males only, but it was hardly +practicable to adhere strictly to the rule, so women were not declined +when a cargo was being made up and nearly completed. Thus a disparity +was inaugurated which has continued to the present day, with only a +slight equalizing tendency.</p> + +<p>The present plan of freeing the slaves recommends +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +itself to all persons who fully understand the position, and if it be honestly +carried out will soon obliterate the crime of enforced labor upon the +island. A sudden freeing of the blacks, that is, all at once, would +have been attended with much risk to all parties, although justice and +humanity demand their liberation. France tried the experiment in St. +Domingo, and the result was a terrible state of anarchy. Not only did +she lose possession of the island, but the people settled down by +degrees into all the horrors of African savagery, even to cannibalism. +England followed, and generously paid the British planters of Jamaica +for all their slaves, giving the latter unconditional freedom. Of +course this ruined the island commercially, but it was strict justice, +nevertheless. Extreme measures are open to objection even in behalf of +justice. It was hoped that the freed negroes of Jamaica would become +thrifty and industrious, earning fair wages, and that crops would +still be remunerative, but it was not so. The negro of the tropics +will only work when he is compelled, and in the West Indies he has +scarcely more to do, as it regards sustaining life, than to pluck of +the wild fruits and to eat. The sugar plantations of Jamaica have +simply ceased to exist.</p> + +<p>Every reasonable Cuban has long realized that the freedom of the +blacks was but a question of time, and that it must soon be brought +about, but how this could be accomplished without rendering them +liable to the terrible consequences which befell St. Domingo was a +serious problem. The commercial wreck of Jamaica had less terror for +them as an example, since of late their own condition could in that +respect hardly be worse. Therefore, the manumitting +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +of one slave in every four annually, so organized that all shall be free +on January 1, 1888, is considered with great favor by the people generally, +except the most radical of old Spaniards. All are thus prepared for the +change, which is so gradually brought about as to cause no great +shock. It is not unreasonable to believe that the instantaneous +freeing of all the slaves would have led to mutual destruction of +whites and blacks all over the island.</p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">Slave Trade with Africa. — Where the Slavers made their +Landing. — An Early Morning Ride. — Slaves marching to +Daily Labor. — Fragrance of the Early Day. — Mist upon the +Waters. — A Slave Ship. — A Beautiful but Guilty +Brigantine. — A French Cruiser. — Cunning Seamanship. — A +Wild Goose Chase. — A Cuban Posada. — Visit to a Coffee +Estate. — Landing a Slave Cargo. — A Sight to challenge +Sympathy and Indignation. — Half-Starved Victims. — +Destruction of the Slave Ship.</div> + + +<p>The author's first visit to the island of Cuba was during the year +1845, at a period when the slave traffic was vigorously, though +surreptitiously carried on between Africa and the island. The trade +was continued so late as 1853, and occasional cargoes were brought +over even later, slavers having been captured on the south coast two +years subsequent to the last named date. The slave vessels generally +sought a landing on the south side, both as being nearest and safest +for them, but when they were hard pressed they made a port wherever it +could be most easily reached. A favorite point at the time of which we +speak, was in the Bay of Broa, on the south coast, nearly opposite to +the Isle of Pines. It was here in 1845 that the author witnessed a +scene which forms the theme of the following chapter. A superior +knowledge of all the hidden bays and inlets of the south side gave the +contrabandists great advantages over any pursuing vessel, and their +lighter draught of water enabled them to navigate their small crafts +where it was impossible for a heavy ship to follow.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> +We were on a brief visit to the coffee estate of Don Herero, near +Guines, and having expressed a desire to visit the southern coast, our +host proposed that we should do so together on the following day. We +were to start on horseback quite early in the morning, so as to +accomplish the distance before the heat of the sun should become +oppressive.</p> + +<p>The early day is almost as beautiful as the evenings of this region, a +fact to which we were fully awakened at an early hour, after a +refreshing night's sleep. Don Herero was already awaiting us on the +broad piazza, which we reached in time to see the slaves, directed by +an overseer, file past the house towards the field. "A couple of hours +before sunrise," said our host, "is the best time for them to work, +and we add these two hours to their noon rest, so that it divides the +labor to better advantage and avoids the midday heat." There were +perhaps seventy or eighty of this gang of slaves, one fifth only being +women. Don Herero went among them and exchanged some pleasant words, +mostly with the women, one of whom, evidently in a delicate situation, +he singled out and led aside, directing her to return to the huts. It +seemed that she had prepared to go to the field, but he did not +approve of it, and she acquiesced good naturedly. It was observed also +that he gave her a piece of money with a pleasant word, bidding her to +purchase some coveted piece of finery,—probably a gaudy "bandana," of +whose bright colors the negro women are very fond, binding them +turban-fashion about their curly heads. Another passion among the +Cuban negresses is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even +brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> +As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted +upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their +manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South +American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At +first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the +entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road, +like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural +English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere, +still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance +of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along +at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated +district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by +hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented +shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and +prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with +small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and +abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of +wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their +surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs +of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of +whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which +he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette +sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and +whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline.</p> + +<p>A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle +rise of ground, which opened to our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>view the ocean, and a line of +coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite +early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which +stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more +distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to +disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift +the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time, +however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero +observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen +such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured +us that with the exercise of a little patience we should soon be +rewarded by a clear and extensive view. So dismounting and lighting +our cigars we leaned upon the saddles of the horses and watched the +wreaths of the mist bank gradually dissolving. To the eastward there +jutted out a promontory with a considerable elevation, behind which +the sun began to show his florid countenance. Presently the indistinct +outline of a graceful tracery of spars and cordage greeted the eye +through the misty gauze, growing steadily more and more distinct and +gradually descending towards the sea level, until at last there lay +before us in full view, with a look of treacherous tranquillity, the +dark, low hull of a brigantine.</p> + +<p>"A slaver!" was the mutual and simultaneous exclamation which burst +from our lips as we gazed intently on the small but symmetrical +vessel.</p> + +<p>Don Herero looked particularly intelligent, but said nothing. There +could be no doubt as to the trade which engaged such a clipper craft. +No legitimate commerce was suggested by her appearance, no <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>honest +trade demanded such manifest sacrifice of carrying capacity. It was +very natural that her guilty character should add interest to her +appearance and cause us to examine her very minutely. A short distance +from where we stood there was gathered a group of a dozen or more +persons, who silently regarded the brigantine, but they evinced no +surprise at her appearance there so close to the shore. She was of a +most graceful model, perfect in every line, with bows almost as sharp +as a knife. The rig was also quite unusual and entirely new to us. Her +deck was flush fore and aft. Not so much as an inch of rise was +allowed for a quarter-deck, a style which gave large stowage capacity +below deck, the level of which came up to within a couple of feet of +the cappings of the bulwarks. As we have before intimated, it required +no interpreter to indicate what business the brigantine was engaged +in. A single glance at her, lying in so unfrequented a place, was +enough. The rakish craft was of Baltimore build, of about two hundred +tons measurement, and, like many another vessel turned out by the +Maryland builders, was designed to make successfully the famous middle +passage to or from the coast of Cuba, loaded with kidnapped negroes +from the shores of Africa. The two requisites of these clippers were +great speed and large stowage capacity for a human freight.</p> + +<p>At first it appeared as though Don Herero had purposely brought us +here to witness the scene, but this he insisted was not the case, +declaring that the presence of the slaver was a surprise to him. Be +that as it may, it was clear that a cargo of negroes was about to be +landed, and certain rapid signals had been exchanged by flags from a +neighboring hut <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>ever since the mist lifted. Repulsive as the idea was +to a Northerner, still it would do no good to avoid the sight, and so +we resolved to witness the disembarkation. Our friend, though a +slaveholder, was so more by force of circumstances than through his +own choice; he did not defend the institution at all. His solemn +convictions were entirely against slavery, and he more than once said +he heartily wished that some means might be devised which should +gradually and effectually relieve the planters from the entire system +and its many troubles. Don Herero now lies in one of the tombs in the +Campo Santo, near Havana, but were he living he would doubtless +rejoice at the present manner of solving a question which was so +involved in perplexity during the last of his days.</p> + +<p>While we were exchanging some remarks upon the subject, our attention +was suddenly drawn towards another striking object upon the waters of +the bay.</p> + +<p>Nearly a league beyond the slaver, looming up above the mist, we could +now make out three topmasts, clearly defined, the stately set of +which, with their firm and substantial rig, betrayed the fact that +there floated beneath them the hull of a French or an English +man-of-war, such as was commissioned at that time to cruise in these +waters for the purpose of intercepting and capturing the vessels +engaged in the African slave trade.</p> + +<p>"A cruiser has scented the brigantine," said Don Herero.</p> + +<p>"It certainly appears so," we affirmed.</p> + +<p>"Unless there be sharp eyes on board the little craft, the cruiser +will be down upon her before her people even suspect their danger."</p> + +<p>"The brigantine can hardly escape, at any rate," we suggested.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> +"Don't be too sure," said Don Herero.</p> + +<p>It was impossible for our friend to suppress the nervous anxiety which +so manifestly actuated him as he viewed the new phase of affairs.</p> + +<p>"Look! Look!" he exclaimed.</p> + +<p>While he spoke, a drapery of snow-white canvas fell like magic from +the spars of the slaver, ready to catch the first breath of the breeze +which the stranger was bringing down with him, though the larger +vessel was still partially wrapped in a thin bank or cloud of fog. A +couple of long sweeps were rigged out of either bow of the brigantine, +and her prow, which just before was heading shoreward, was swung to +seaward, while her canvas was trimmed to catch the first breath of the +on-coming breeze.</p> + +<p>"This looks like business," said Don Herero with emphasis, at the same +time shading his eyes with both hands to get a better view of the +situation.</p> + +<p>"Can you define the new-comer's nationality?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"Not yet."</p> + +<p>"See! she is now in full sight."</p> + +<p>"French!" exclaimed Don Herero, as the tri-colors were clearly visible +hanging from her peak.</p> + +<p>"What will the cruiser do with the brigantine?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"First catch your hare," said our friend.</p> + +<p>Our host then explained that the slaver had evidently intended to land +her cargo under cover of the night, but had been prevented by the mist +from coming to anchor in time. Fog, being so seldom known on this +coast, had not entered into their calculations. She had most likely +felt her way towards the shore by soundings, and was waiting for full +daylight when we discovered her.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> +While this explanation was being made, the brigantine had already got +steerage way upon her, aided by the steady application of the sweeps, +and her sharp bow was headed off shore. Nothing on the sea, unless it +were a steamer, could hold speed with these fly-aways, which were +built for just such emergencies as the present. The gradually +freshening breeze had now dispersed the mist, and the two vessels were +clearly in view from the shore and to each other. The remarkable +interest of the scene increased with each moment. Don Herero, with all +the excitability of his nationality, could hardly contain himself as +he walked rapidly back and forth, always keeping his eyes towards the +sea.</p> + +<p>The cruiser had come down under an easy spread of canvas, wearing a +jib, three topsails, fore, main, and mizzen, and her spanker. It did +not appear as if she had any previous intimation of the presence of +the slaver, but rather that she was on the watch for just such a +quarry as chance had placed within reach of her guns. The moment she +discovered the brigantine, and at a signal which we could not hear +upon the land, a hundred dark objects peopled her shrouds and spars, +and sail after sail of heavy duck was rapidly dropped and sheeted +home, until the mountain of canvas began to force the large hull +through the water with increasing speed.</p> + +<p>In the mean time the lesser craft had been by no means idle. In +addition to the regular square and fore and aft sails of a brigantine, +she had a mizzen-mast stepped well aft not more than four feet from +her taffrail, upon which she had hoisted a spanker and gaff-topsail, +thus completing a most graceful and effective rig, and spreading a +vast amount of canvas <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>for a vessel of her moderate tonnage. It was +quite impossible to take one's eyes off the two vessels. It was a race +for life with the slaver, whose people worked with good effect at the +sweeps and in trimming their sails to make the most out of the light +but favorable wind that was filling them. The larger vessel would have +made better headway in a stiff breeze or half a gale of wind, but the +present moderate breeze favored the guilty little brigantine, which +was every moment forging ahead and increasing the distance between +herself and her enemy.</p> + +<p>"Do you see that commotion on the cruiser's bow?" asked our friend +eagerly.</p> + +<p>"Some men are gathered on the starboard bow," was our answer.</p> + +<p>"Ay, and now she runs out a gun!"</p> + +<p>That was plain enough to see. The cruiser trained a bow-chaser to bear +on the slaver, and the boom of the gun came sluggishly over the sea a +few seconds after the puff of smoke was seen. A quick eye could see +the dash of the shot just astern of the brigantine, where it must have +cast the spray over her quarter-deck. After a moment's delay, as if to +get the true range, a second, third, and fourth shot followed, each +ricochetting through and over the slight waves either to starboard or +port of the slaver, without any apparent effect. The brigantine, still +employing her sweeps, and with canvas well trimmed, took no notice of +the shots.</p> + +<p>Every time the gun was discharged on board the cruiser, it became +necessary to fall off her course just a point or two in order to get a +proper aim, and her captain was quick to see the disadvantage of this, +as he was only assisting the slaver to widen the distance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>between +them. It would seem to the uninitiated to be the easiest thing +possible to cripple the brigantine by a few well directed shots, but +when sailing in the wake of an enemy this is by no means so easily +done. Besides, the distance between the two vessels, which was +considerable, was momentarily increasing. Notwithstanding that the +broad spread of canvas on board the slaver made her a conspicuous +mark, still, so far as could be seen or judged of by her movements, +she remained untouched by half a dozen shots, more or less, which the +cruiser sent after her as she slipped away from her big adversary. We +could even see that the sweeps were now taken in, showing that the +master of the slaver considered the game to be in his own hands.</p> + +<p>"The brigantine steers due south," said our friend, rubbing his hands +together eagerly. "She will lead the Frenchman a wild goose chase +among the Cayman Isles, where he will be most likely to run aground +with his heavy draught of water. The sea round about for leagues is +underlaid by treacherous coral reefs. We shall see, we shall see," he +reiterated.</p> + +<p>"But they must certainly have a good pilot on board the cruiser," we +ventured to say.</p> + +<p>"Undoubtedly," replied Don Herero, "but the brigantine is built with a +centre-board, thus having, as it were, a portable keel, and can sail +anywhere that a man could swim, while the cruiser, with all her +armament, must draw nearly three fathoms. A ship will sometimes follow +a chase into dangerous water."</p> + +<p>"True," we responded, "the brigantine's safety lies in seeking shoal +water."</p> + +<p>"You are right, and that will be her game."</p> + +<p>In half an hour both vessels were hull down in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>offing, and were +soon invisible from our point of view. The early ride and subsequent +excitement had developed in us a healthy appetite, and we were +strongly reminded of the fact that we had not breakfasted. We were +near the little hamlet of Lenore, where there was a small inn, which +we had passed on the way, and towards which we now turned our horses' +heads. A breakfast of boiled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee was +prepared for us and well served, much to our surprise, supplemented by +a large dish of various fruits, ripe and delicious. Don Herero had +left us for a few moments while the breakfast was preparing, and it +must have been owing to his intelligent instructions that we were so +nicely served, for, as a rule, country posadas in Cuba are places to +be avoided, being neither cleanly nor comfortable. For strangers they +are not entirely safe, as they are frequented by a very rough class of +people. These idlers do not indulge in spirituous liquors to excess, +partaking only of the light Cataline wine in universal use both in +Spain and her colonies. Intemperance is little seen outside the large +cities, but gambling and quarreling are ever rampant among the class +who frequent these posadas. In the present instance there were a dozen +and more individuals in the Lenore inn who were more or less connected +with the expected arrival of the slave brigantine, and the +disappointment caused by the arrival upon the scene of the French +cruiser had put them all in a very bad humor. Angry words were being +exchanged among them in the large reception apartment, and Don Herero +suggested that we should finish our cigars under an inviting shade in +the rear of the posada.</p> + +<p>At our host's suggestion a neighboring coffee plantation +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> +was visited, and its floral and vegetable beauties thoroughly enjoyed. It was in +the very height of fragrance and promise, the broad expanse of the +plantation, as far as the eye could extend, being in full bloom. Some +hours were agreeably passed in examining the estate, the slaves' +quarters, and the domestic arrangements, and also in partaking of the +hospitalities of the generous owner, after which we rode back to +Lenore.</p> + +<p>"We must not miss the closing act of our little drama," said Don +Herero, significantly.</p> + +<p>"The closing act?" we inquired.</p> + +<p>"Certainly. You do not suppose we have yet done with the brigantine?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, the brigantine. Will she dare to return, now the cruiser has +discovered her?"</p> + +<p>"Of course she will, after dropping her pursuer. Strange that these +French cruisers do not understand these things better; but so it is."</p> + +<p>And Don Herero explained that the French cruisers watched the southern +coasts of the island, while the English cruised on the northern shore, +attempted to blockade it, and also cruised farther seaward, on the +line between Africa and Cuba. A couple of American men-of-war, engaged +in the same purpose of suppressing the slave trade, patrolled the +African coast. It was nearly night before we got through our dinner at +the posada. Just as we were preparing to leave the table, the landlord +came in and announced to Don Herero that if we desired to witness the +close of the morning's business in the bay, we must hurry up to the +plateau.</p> + +<p>We hastened to our former position, reaching it just in time to see +the brigantine again rounding the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>headland. She now ran in close to +the shore, where there seemed to be hardly water sufficient to float +her, but the exactness and system which characterized her movements +showed that her commander was not a stranger to the little bay in +which he had brought his vessel. All was instantly bustle and +activity, both on board and on shore. There were not more than twenty +people to be seen at the shore, but each one knew his business, and +went about it intelligently. There was no more loud talking or +disputation. These men, all armed, were accustomed to this sort of +thing, and had evidently been awaiting the slaver's arrival for some +days. They were a rough-looking set of desperadoes, among whom we +recognized several who had been at the posada.</p> + +<p>The brigantine was quickly moored as near to the shore as possible, +and a broad gangway of wood was laid from her deck to a projecting +rock, over which a long line of dark objects was hurried, like a flock +of sheep, and nearly as naked as when born into the world. We walked +down to the landing-place, in order to get a closer view. The line of +human beings who came out from below the deck of the slaver were +mostly full-grown men, but occasionally a woman or a boy came out and +hastened forward with the rest. As we drew nearer, one or two of the +women, it was observed, had infants in their arms, little unconscious +creatures, sound asleep, and so very young that they must have been +born on the voyage. How the entire scene appealed to our indignation +and sympathy! What misery these poor creatures must have endured, +cooped up for twenty-one days in that circumscribed space! They were +all shockingly emaciated, having sustained life on a few ounces of rice +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> +and a few gills of water daily distributed to them. The +atmosphere, thoroughly poisoned when so confined, had proved fatal to +a large number. As we stood there, one dark body was passed up from +below the deck and quietly dropped into the bay. Life was extinct. It +was quite impossible to suppress a shudder as we looked upon the +disgraceful scene, which being observed Don Herero said,—</p> + +<p>"They look bad enough now, but a few days in the open air, with a +plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits, and sweet water to drink, will +bring them round. They will get a good bath directly at the first +river they cross, which is the thing they most require."</p> + +<p>While our friend was speaking, four tall, gaunt, fierce-looking +negroes passed us, shackled two by two at the wrists. Their eyes +rolled curiously about, full of wonder at all they saw, everything was +to them so strange. They knew no more than children just born what was +in store for them.</p> + +<p>"Poor fellows!" we ejaculated. Perhaps they detected sympathy in the +tone of voice in which the words were uttered. They could not +understand their purport, but all four were observed to turn their +eyes quickly towards us, with an intelligent expression.</p> + +<p>"These are Ashantees," said Don Herero. "They have thriven but poorly +on their small allowance of nourishment, but they will improve rapidly +like the rest, now they have landed. They belong to a powerful tribe +in Africa, and are rarely captured and sold to the factories on the +coast. They are sturdy and serviceable fellows, but they must be +humored. The lash will not subdue them. They bring a high price in +Havana for harbor workers."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> +Hastening back to the posada, a large basket of cassava bread and an +abundance of ripe bananas and oranges, with half a dozen bottles of +wine, were procured. With these, carried by a couple of colored boys, +we hastened back to the landing-place in time to distribute the +refreshments to all the women and boys. The balance of the provisions +were dealt out to the few men who had not already been hurried away +from the spot. It is impossible to describe the surprise and grateful +expression upon those dusky faces among the half-famished creatures, +as they eagerly swallowed a portion of the wine, and ate freely of the +delicious fruit and nourishing bread.</p> + +<p>We were told afterwards that there were about three hundred and fifty +of these poor creatures originally embarked, and over three hundred +were landed. Perhaps between thirty and forty had died on the passage, +unable to sustain life under such awful circumstances, packed, as they +necessarily were, almost like herring in a box. Once a day, in fair +weather, thirty or forty at a time were permitted to pass a half hour +on deck. That was all the respite from their confinement which they +enjoyed during the three weeks' voyage. The horrors of the "middle +passage" have not been exaggerated.</p> + +<p>"They must have lost many of their number by death, on the voyage," we +suggested to Don Herero, as we observed their weak and tremulous +condition.</p> + +<p>"Doubtless," was the response.</p> + +<p>"And what do they do in that case?"</p> + +<p>"They have the ocean always alongside," was his significant reply.</p> + +<p>"They throw them over as they did that body just now?" we asked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> +"Exactly. And many a poor sick creature is cast into the sea before +life is extinct," he continued.</p> + +<p>"That is adding murder to piracy," was our natural and indignant +rejoinder.</p> + +<p>"Hush!" said Don Herero, "these are sensitive people, and desperate +ones, as well. I should find it difficult to protect you if they were +to overhear and understand such words."</p> + +<p>We realized that his remarks were true enough. We were in a land of +slavery, and that meant that everything evil was possible.</p> + +<p>The last of the living freight had been landed, and arranged in +marching trim they were turned with their faces inland, staggering as +they went, their swollen and cramped limbs hardly able to sustain the +weight of their bodies. They were all secured with handcuffs, twenty +in a lot, between whom,—there being ten on a side,—a pole was +placed, and each was fastened by a chain running through the steel +handcuffs to the pole. An armed Spaniard directed each lot. The faces +of all were quite expressionless. They had just endured such horrors +packed beneath the deck of the brigantine that the present change must +have been welcome to them, lame as they were.</p> + +<p>We had been so completely engaged in watching the colored gangs and in +moving up to our lookout station of the early morning that our +thoughts had not reverted to anything else, but as the last lot filed +by there boomed over the waters of the bay the heavy report of a gun, +at once calling our attention seaward. A change had come over the +scene. That which has taken some space to relate had transpired with +great rapidity. Night had settled over the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>scene, but the moon and +stars were so marvelously bright as to render objects almost as plain +as by day. The ocean lay like a sheet of silver, luminous with the +reflected light poured upon it by the sparkling skies. Looking towards +the southeast, we saw the French cruiser rounding the headland which +formed the eastern arm of the little bay, and she had already sent a +shot across the water aimed at the brigantine. Don Herero had +prognosticated correctly. The slaver had led the cruiser a fruitless +chase and lost her among the islands, and then returning to her former +anchorage had successfully discharged her cargo. Her tactics could not +have been anticipated by the cruiser, yet had an armed party been left +behind in boats, the brigantine might have been captured on her +return. But then again, if the cruiser had left a portion of her crew +at this point, the slaver would have been notified by the friends on +shore, and would have sought a landing elsewhere.</p> + +<p>The brigantine had cast off her moorings and was now standing seaward, +with her sails filled. We could distinctly see a quarter boat leave +her side manned by some of her crew, who at once pulled towards the +nearest landing. At the same time a bright blaze sprang up on board +the slaver just amidships, and in a moment more it crept, like a +living serpent, from shroud to shroud and from spar to spar, until the +graceful brigantine was one sheet of flame! It was dazzling to look +upon, even at the distance where we stood, the body of high-reaching +flame being sharply defined against the background of sky and blue +water.</p> + +<p>While we watched the glowing view the cruiser cautiously changed her +course and bore away, for fire <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>was an enemy with which she could not +contend. Presently there arose a shower of blazing matter heavenward, +while a confused shock and a dull rumbling report filled the +atmosphere, as the guilty brigantine was blown to atoms! Hemmed in as +she was there could be no hope of escape. Her mission was ended, and +her crew followed their usual orders, to destroy the ship rather than +permit her to fall a prize to any government cruisers.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot">Antique Appearance of Everything. — The Yeomen of Cuba. — A Montero's Home. — Personal Experience. — The Soil of the +Island. — Oppression by the Government. — Spanish Justice +in Havana. — Tax upon the Necessities of Life. — The +Proposed Treaty with Spain. — A One-Sided Proposition. — A +Much Taxed People. — Some of the Items of Taxation. — Fraud +and Bankruptcy. — The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. — +Destiny of Cuba. — A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. — +Political Condition. — Pictures of Memory.</div> + + +<p>Everything in Cuba has an aspect of antiquity quite Egyptian. The +style of the buildings is not unlike that of the Orient, while the +trees and vegetable products increase the resemblance. The tall, +majestic palms, the graceful cocoanut trees, the dwellings of the +lower classes and many other peculiarities give to the scenery an +Eastern aspect quite impressive. It is impossible to describe the +vividness with which each object, artificial or natural, house or +tree, stands out in the clear liquid light where there is no haze to +interrupt the view. Indeed, it is impossible to express how +essentially everything differs in this sunny island from our own +country. The language, the people, the climate, the manners and +customs, the architecture, the foliage, the flowers, all offer broad +contrasts to what the American has so lately left behind him. It +is but a long cannon shot, as it were, off our southern coast, yet +once upon its soil the stranger seems to have been transported to +another quarter of the globe. It would require but little effort +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> +of the imagination to believe one's self in distant Syria, or some remoter +part of Asia.</p> + +<p>One never tires of watching the African population, either in town or +country. During the hours which the slaves are allowed to themselves, +they are oftenest seen working on their own allotted piece of ground, +where they raise favorite fruits and vegetables, besides corn for +fattening the pig penned up near by, and for which the drover who +regularly visits the plantations will pay them in good hard money. +Thus it has been the case, in years past, that thrifty slaves have +earned the means of purchasing their freedom, after which they have +sought the cities, and have swelled the large numbers of free negroes +who naturally tend towards these populous centres. Some become +caleseros, some labor upon the water-front of the town as stevedores, +porters, and the like, but the majority are confirmed idlers. In the +cities even the slaves have always had a less arduous task to perform +than those on the plantations. They are less exposed to the sun, and +are as a rule allowed more freedom and privileges. The women never +fail to exhibit the true negro taste for cheap jewelry. A few gaudy +ribbons and a string of high-colored glass beads about the neck are +greatly prized by them. Sometimes the mistress of a good looking +negress takes great pleasure in decking her immediate attendant in +grand style, with big gold finger rings, large hoop earrings, wide +gold necklace, and the like. A bright calico gown and a flaring +bandana kerchief bound about the head generally complete the costume +of these petted slaves. There was one sight observed in the church of +Santa Clara of significance in this connection. Before the altar all +distinction ceased, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>and the negress knelt on the same bit of carpet +beside the mistress.</p> + +<p>The native soil of Cuba is so rich that a touch of the hoe prepares it +for the plant. It is said to be unsurpassed in the world in this +respect, and only equaled by Australia. The Monteros have little more +to do than to gather produce, which they carry daily to the nearest +market, and which also forms their own healthful and palatable food. +Nowhere are the necessities of life so easily supplied, or are men so +delicately nurtured. And yet to our Northern eye these Monteros seemed +rather a forlorn sort of people, forming a class by themselves, and +regarded with disdain by the Spaniards and most Creoles, as our +Southern slaveholders used to regard the poor whites of the South. If +one may judge by appearances they are nearly as poor in purse as they +can be. Their home, rude and lowly, consists generally of a cabin with +a bamboo frame, covered by a palm-leaf roof, and with an earthen +floor. There are a few broken hedges, and numbers of ragged or naked +children. Pigs, hens, goats, all stroll ad libitum in and out of the +cabin. The Montero's tools—few and poorly adapted—are Egyptian-like +in primitiveness, while the few vegetables are scarcely cultivated at +all. The chaparral about his cabin is low, tangled, and thorny, but it +is remarkable what a redeeming effect a few graceful palms impart to +the crudeness of the picture.</p> + +<p>The Montero raises, perhaps, some sweet potatoes, which, by the bye, +reach a very large size in Cuban soil. He has also a little patch of +corn, but <i>such</i> corn. When ripe it is only three or four feet in +height, or less than half the average of our New <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>England growth, the +ears mere nubbins. This corn grows, however, all the year round, and +is fed green to horses and cattle. All this is done upon a very small +scale. No one lays in a stock of anything perishable. The farmer's or +the citizen's present daily necessities alone are provided for. +Idleness and tobacco occupy most of the Montero's time, varied by the +semi-weekly attractions of the cock-pit. The amount of sustaining food +which can be realized from one of these little patches of ground, so +utterly neglected, is something beyond credence to those who have not +looked bountiful nature in the face in Cuba.</p> + +<p>While traveling in the vicinity of Guines, the author stopped at one +of these lonely Montero homes to obtain water and refreshment for his +horse. These were promptly furnished in the form of a pail of water +and a bundle of green cornstalks. In the mean time the rude +hospitality of the cabin was proffered to us, and we gladly sat down +to partake of cocoanut milk and bananas. One of the family pets of the +cabin consisted of a tall white bird of the crane species, which, +regardless of goat, kid, hens, chickens, and children, came boldly to +our side as though accustomed to be petted, and greedily devoured the +banana which was peeled for him and cut into tempting bits. One wing +had evidently been cut so that the bird could not fly away, but his +long, vigorous legs would have defied pursuit, had he desired to +escape. Four children, two of each sex, two of whom were white and two +mulatto, quite naked, and less than ten years of age, kept close to +the Montero's Creole wife, watching us with big, wondering eyes, and +fingers thrust into their mouths. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>What relationship they bore to the +household was not clearly apparent. On rising to depart and attempting +to pay for the entertainment, the master of the cabin, with true Cuban +hospitality, declined all remuneration; but a handful of small silver +divided among the children satisfied all, and we parted with a hearty +pressure of the hand.</p> + +<p>The richest soil of the island is black, which is best adapted to +produce the sugar-cane, and is mostly devoted, if eligibly located, to +that purpose. To a Northerner, accustomed to see so much enrichment +expended upon the soil to force from it an annual return, this +profuseness of unstimulated yield is a surprise. The red soil of Cuba, +which is impregnated with the oxide of iron, is less rich, and is +better adapted to the coffee plantation. The mulatto-colored earth is +considered to be inferior to either of the others named, but is by no +means unproductive, being preferred by the tobacco growers, who, +however, often mingle a percentage of other soils with it, as we +mingle barnyard refuse with our natural soil. Some tobacco planters +have resorted by way of experiment to the use of guano, hoping to +stimulate the native properties of the soil, but its effect was found +to be not only exhausting to the land, but also bad for the leaf, +rendering it rank and unfit for delicate use.</p> + +<p>Coal is found near Havana, though it is of rather an inferior quality, +and, so far as we could learn, is but little used, the planters +depending mostly upon the refuse of the cane with which to run their +boilers and engines. Trees have been only too freely used for fuel +while accessible, but great care is now taken to utilize the cane +after the juice is expressed. Trees, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>which are so much needed in this +climate for shade purposes, have mostly disappeared near Havana. When +Columbus first landed here he wrote home to Spain that the island was +so thickly wooded as to be impassable.</p> + +<p>The lovely climate and beautiful land are rendered gloomy by the state +of oppression under which they suffer. The exuberant soil groans with +the burdens which are heaped upon it. The people are not safe from +prying inquiry at bed or board. Their every action is watched, their +slightest words noted and perhaps distorted. They can sing no song of +liberty, and even to hum an air wedded to republican verse is to +provoke suspicion. The press is muzzled by the iron hand of power. Two +hours before a daily paper is distributed on the streets of Havana, a +copy must be sent to the government censor. When it is returned with +his indorsement it may be issued to the public. The censorship of the +telegraph is also as rigorously enforced. Nor do private letters +through the mails escape espionage. No passenger agent in Havana dares +to sell a ticket for the departure of a stranger or citizen without +first seeing that the individual's passport is indorsed by the police. +Foreign soldiers fatten upon the people, or at least they eat out +their substance, and every town near the coast is a garrison, every +interior village a military depot.</p> + +<p>Upon landing, if well advised, one is liberal to the petty officials. +Chalk is cheap. A five-dollar gold-piece smooths the way wonderfully, +and causes the inspector to cross one's baggage with his chalk and no +questions asked. No gold, no chalk! Every article must be scrupulously +examined. It is cheapest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>to pay, humiliating as it is, and thus +purchase immunity.</p> + +<p>As a specimen of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Havana +to-day, a case is presented which occurred during our stay at the +Telegrafo Hotel. A native citizen was waylaid by three men and robbed +of his pocket-book and watch, about fifty rods from the hotel, at +eight o'clock in the evening. The rascal who secured the booty, +threatening his victim all the while with a knife at his throat, +instantly ran away, but the citizen succeeded in holding on to the +other two men until his outcries brought the police to the spot. The +two accomplices were at once imprisoned. Three days later they were +brought before an authorized court, and tried for the robbery. Being +taken red-handed, as it were, one would suppose their case was clear +enough, and that they would be held until they gave up their +accomplice. Not so, however. The victim of the robbery, who had lost a +hundred and sixty dollars in money and a valuable gold watch, was +coolly rebuked for carrying so much property about his person, and the +case was dismissed! Had the sufferer been a home Spaniard possibly the +result would have been different. The inference is plain and doubtless +correct, that the official received half the stolen property, provided +he would liberate the culprits. Sometimes, as we were assured, the +victim outbids the rogues, and exemplary punishment follows!</p> + +<p>Flour of a good commercial quality sells at present in Boston for six +dollars per barrel. Why should it cost fourteen dollars in Havana and +other ports of Cuba? Because Spain demands a tax of one hundred per +cent. to be paid into the royal treasury upon <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>this prime necessity of +life. This one example is sufficient to illustrate her policy, which +is to extort from the Cubans every possible cent that can be obtained. +The extraordinary taxation imposed upon their subjects by the German +and Austrian governments is carried to the very limit, it would seem, +of endurance, but taxation in Cuba goes far beyond anything of the +sort in Europe. Spain now asks us to execute with her a "favorable" +reciprocity treaty. Such a treaty as she proposes would be of very +great benefit to Spain, no doubt, but of none, or comparatively none, +to us. Whatever we seemingly do for Cuba in the matter of such a +treaty we should do indirectly for Spain. She it is who will reap all +the benefit. She has still upon her hands some fifty to sixty thousand +civil and military individuals, who are supported by a miserable +system of exaction as high and petty officials in this misgoverned +island.</p> + +<p>It is for the interest of this army of locusts in possession to keep +up the present state of affairs,—it is bread and butter to them, +though it be death to the Cubans. Relieved of the enormous taxation +and oppression generally which her people labor under in every +department of life, Cuba would gradually assume a condition of thrift +and plenty. But while she is so trodden upon, so robbed in order to +support in luxury a host of rapacious Spaniards, and forbidden any +voice in the control of her own affairs, all the treaty concessions +which we could make to Spain would only serve to keep up and +perpetuate the great farce. Such a treaty as is proposed would be in +reality granting to Spain a subsidy of about thirty million dollars +per annum! This conclusion was arrived at after consultation with +three of the principal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>United States consuls on the island. Cuba +purchases very little from us; she has not a consuming population of +over three hundred thousand. The common people, negroes, and Chinese +do not each expend five dollars a year for clothing. Rice, codfish, +and dried beef, with the abundant fruits, form their support. Little +or none of these come from the United States. The few consumers wear +goods which we cannot, or at least do not produce. A reciprocity +treaty with such a people means, therefore, giving them a splendid +annual subsidy.</p> + +<p>Taxed by the government to the very last extreme, the landlords, +shopkeepers, and all others who work for hire have also learned the +trick of it, and practice a similar game on every possible victim. +Seeing a small desirable text book in a shop on the Calle de Obrapia, +we asked the price.</p> + +<p>"Two dollars, gold, señor," was the answer.</p> + +<p>"Why do you charge just double the price one would pay for it in +Madrid, Paris, or New York?" we asked.</p> + +<p>"Because we are so heavily taxed," was the reply, and the shopman went +on to illustrate.</p> + +<p>Each small retail store is taxed three hundred dollars for the right +to do business. As the store increases in size and importance the tax +is increased. A new tax of six per cent. on the amount of all other +taxation has just been added, to cover the cost of collecting the +whole! A war tax of twenty-five per cent. upon incomes was laid in +1868, and though the war has been ended ten years it is still +collected. Every citizen or resident in Havana is obliged to supply +himself with a document which is called a cedula, or paper of +identification, at an annual cost of five <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>dollars in gold. Every +merchant who places a sign outside of his door is taxed so much per +letter annually. Clerks in private establishments have to pay two and +one half per cent. of their quarterly salaries to government. +Railroads pay a tax of ten per cent. upon all passage money received, +and the same on all freight money. Petty officials invent and impose +fines upon the citizens for the most trifling things, and strangers +are mulcted in various sums of money whenever a chance occurs, +generally liquidating the demand rather than to be at the cost of time +and money to contest their rights. The very beggars in the streets, +blind, lame, or diseased, if found in possession of money, are forced +to share it with officials on some outrageous pretext. All these +things taken into consideration show us why the shopkeeper of Havana +must charge double price for his merchandise. We have only named a few +items of taxation which happen to occur to us, and which only form a +commencement of the long list.</p> + +<p>It is nearly impossible at present to collect a note or an account on +the island. Several of the guests at the Telegrafo had come from the +United States solely upon these fruitless errands, each having the +same experience to relate. Dishonest debtors take advantage of the +general state of bankruptcy which exists, and plead utter inability to +meet their obligations, while others, who would gladly pay their +honest debts if it were possible, have not the means to do so.</p> + +<p>There is considerable counterfeit paper money in circulation, and we +were told that the banks of the city of Havana actually paid it out +knowingly over their own counters, mixed in with genuine bills,—a +presumed perquisite of the bank officers! This <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>unprecedented fraud +was not put a stop to until the merchants and private bankers +threatened to have the doors of the banks closed by popular force if +the outrage was longer continued. Could such a public fraud be carried +on under any other than a Spanish government? It is not pleasant to +record the fact, but it is nevertheless true that the Spaniards in +Cuba are artful, untruthful, unreliable even in small things, with no +apparent sense of honor, and seeking just now mainly how they can best +avoid their honest obligations. As evil communications are contagious, +the Cubans have become more or less impregnated with this spirit of +commercial dishonesty. It must be admitted that of true, conscientious +principles neither party has any to spare.</p> + +<p>The writer has often been asked about Moro Castle. Much has been said +about its "impregnable" character, but modern military science will +not recognize any such theory. A thousand chances are liable to +happen, any one of which might give the place into the hands of an +invading force. Has it not already been twice taken? Though it may be +said that auxiliary forts have been added since those experiences, +nevertheless modern artillery would make but short work of the boasted +defenses of Havana, and would knock the metropolis itself all to +pieces in a few hours, while lying out of range from Moro Castle. No +invading force need attack from the seaward side, unless it should be +found particularly desirable to do so. The place could be easily +taken, as the French took Algiers, by landing a sufficient force in +the rear. With the exception of the fortresses in and about Havana, +the island, with its two thousand miles of coast line and nearly one +hundred accessible <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>harbors, is certainly very poorly prepared to +resist an invading enemy. Cuba's boasted military or defensive +strength is chimerical.</p> + +<p>That the island naturally belongs to this country is a fact so plain +as to have been conceded by all authorities. In this connection one is +forcibly reminded of the words of Jefferson in a letter to President +Monroe, so long ago as 1823, wherein he says: "I candidly confess that +I have ever looked on Cuba as the most interesting addition which +could be made to our system of States. The control which, with Florida +Point, this island would give us over the Gulf of Mexico and the +countries and the isthmus bordering it, would fill up the measure of +our political well-being." Is it generally known that Cuba was once +freely offered to this government? During the presidency of Jefferson, +while Spain was bowed beneath the yoke of France, the people of the +island, feeling themselves incompetent to maintain their independence, +sent a deputation to Washington city proposing its annexation to the +federal system of North America. The President, however, declined to +even consider the proffered acquisition. Again, in 1848, President +Polk authorized our minister at Madrid to offer a hundred million +dollars for a fee simple of the island, but it was rejected by Spain.</p> + +<p>Completely divided against itself, the mystery is how Cuba has been so +long sustained in its present system. Spain has crowded regiment after +regiment of her army into the island. It was like pouring water into a +sieve, the troops being absorbed by death almost as fast as they could +be landed. The combined slaughter brought about by patriot bullets, +hardships, exposure, fever, and every possible adverse <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>circumstance +has been enormous beyond belief. In spite of all this sacrifice of +human life, besides millions of gold expended annually, what does +Spain gain by holding tenaciously to her title of the island? Nothing, +absolutely nothing. The time has long passed when the system of +extortion enforced upon the Cubans served to recuperate the royal +treasury. The tide has entirely changed in this respect, and though +the taxation has been increased, still the home government is mulcted +in the sum of six or eight millions of dollars annually to keep up the +present worse than useless system. The deficit of the Cuban budget for +the present year, as we were credibly informed, could not be less than +eight millions of dollars. How is Spain to meet this continuous drain +upon her resources? She is already financially bankrupt. It is in this +political strait that she seeks a one-sided treaty with the United +States, by means of which she hopes to eke out her possession of the +island a few years longer, through our liberality,—a treaty by which +she would gain some thirty millions of dollars annually, and we should +be just so much the poorer.</p> + +<p>As regards the final destiny of Cuba, that question will be settled by +certain economic laws which are as sure in their operation as are +those of gravitation. No matter what our wishes may be in the matter, +such individual desires are as nothing when arraigned against natural +laws. The commerce of the island is a stronger factor in the problem +than mere politics; it is the active agent of civilization all over +the world. It is not cannon, but ships; not gunpowder, but peaceful +freights, which settle the great questions of mercantile communities. +Krupp's hundred-ton guns will <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>not control the fate of Cuba, but sugar +will. We have only to ask ourselves, Whither does the great commercial +interest of the island point? It is in the direction in which the +largest portion of her products find their market. If this were +England, towards that land her industry and her people would look +hopefully, but as it is the United States who take over ninety per +cent. of her entire exports, towards the country of the Stars and +Stripes she stretches out her hands, and asks for favorable treaties.</p> + +<p>At the present moment she has reached a crisis, where her condition is +absolutely desperate. The hour is big with fate to the people of Cuba. +As long as European soil will produce beets, the product of the cane +will find no market on that side of the Atlantic. Cuba must in the +future depend as much upon the United States as does Vermont, +Mississippi, New York, Ohio, or any other State. The effort to bring +about a reciprocal treaty of commerce with us is but the expression of +a natural tendency to closer bonds with this country. Thus it will be +seen that as regards her commercial existence, Cuba is already within +the economic orbit of our Union, though she seems to be so far away +politically. The world's centre of commercial gravity is changing very +fast by reason of the great and rapid development of the United +States, and all lands surrounding the union must conform to the +prevailing lines of motion.</p> + +<p>It is with infinite reluctance that the temporary sojourner in Cuba +leaves her delicious shores. A brief residence in the island passes +like a midsummer night's dream, while the memories one brings away +seem almost like delusive spots of the imagination. Smiling skies and +smiling waters; groves of palms and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>oranges; the bloom of the +heliotrope, the jasmine and the rose; flights of strange and gaudy +birds; tropic nights at once luxurious and calm; clouds of fireflies +floating like unsphered stars on the night breeze; graceful figures of +dark-eyed señoritas in diaphanous drapery; picturesque groups of +Monteros, relieved by the dusky faces and stalwart forms of the sons +of Africa; undulating volantes, military pageants, ecclesiastical +processions, frowning fortresses, grim batteries, white sails, +fountains raining silver; all these images mingle in brilliant +kaleidoscopic combinations, changing and varying as the mind's eye +seeks to fix their features. Long after his departure from the +enchanting island, the traveler beholds these visions in the still +watches of the night, and again listens to the dash of the sea-green +waves at the foot of the Moro and the Punta, the roll of the drum and +the crash of arms upon the ramparts, or hears in fancy the thrilling +strains of music from the military band in the Paseo de Isabella.</p> + +<p>If it were possible to contemplate only the beautiful that nature has +so prodigally lavished on this Eden of the Gulf, shutting out all that +man has done and is doing to mar the blessings of heaven, while +closing our eyes to the myriad forms of human misery that assail them +on every hand, then a visit to or a residence in Cuba would present a +succession of unalloyed pleasures, delightful as a poet's dream. But +the dark side of the picture will force itself upon us. The American +traveler, keenly alive to the social and political aspects of life, +appreciates in full force the evils that challenge his observation at +every step. If he contrasts the natural scenery with the familiar +pictures of home, he cannot help also contrasting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> the political +condition of the people with that of his own country. The existence, +almost under the shadow of the flag of the freest institutions the +earth ever knew, of a government as purely despotic as that of the +autocrat of Russia is a monstrous fact that must startle the most +indifferent observer.</p> + +<p>To go hence to Cuba is not merely to pass over a few degrees of +latitude,—it is to take a step from the nineteenth century back into +the dark ages. In the clime of sunshine and endless summer, we are in +the land of starless political darkness. Lying under the lee of a land +where every man is a sovereign is a realm where the lives, liberties, +and fortunes of all are held at the will of a single individual, who +acknowledges fealty only to a nominal ruler more than three thousand +miles across the sea.</p> + +<p>In close proximity to a country where the taxes are self-imposed and +so light as to be almost unfelt is one where each free family pays +over five hundred dollars per annum, directly and indirectly, for the +support of a system of bigoted tyranny, scarcely equaled +elsewhere,—forming an aggregate sum of over twenty-six millions of +dollars. For all this extortion no equivalent is received. No +representation, no utterance, for tongue or pen are alike proscribed; +no share of public honors, no office, no emolument. The industry of +the people is crippled, their intercourse with other nations is +hampered in every conceivable manner, and every liberal aspiration of +the human soul stifled in its birth. Can good morals and Christian +lives be expected of a people who are so down-trodden?</p> + +<p>Salubrious in climate, varied in production, and most fortunately +situated for commerce, there must <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>yet be a grand future in store for +Cuba. Washed by the Gulf Stream on half her border, while the +Mississippi pours out its riches on one side and the Amazon on the +other, her home is naturally within our own constellation of stars, +and some of those who read these pages may live to see such a +consummation.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by +Maturin M. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Due South or Cuba Past and Present + +Author: Maturin M. Ballou + +Release Date: September 29, 2009 [EBook #30130] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DUE SOUTH OR CUBA PAST AND PRESENT *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Ritu Aggarwal and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + +1) Passages in italics are surrounded by _underscores_. + +2) A few chapter sub-headings do not end with a period. For consistency, + obvious errors have been corrected by ending these with a period. + +3) A few obvious misprints where sentences did not end with a period have + been corrected. + +4) The words "manoeuvres" and "manoeuvre" use oe ligature in the original. + +5) The following misprints have been corrected: + "which we pet in our" corrected to "which we put in our" (page 243) + "Britian" corrected to "Britain" (page 271) + +6) Other than the corrections listed above, printer's inconsistencies in + spelling, punctuation, hyphenation and ligature usage have been retained. + + + + + DUE SOUTH + OR + CUBA PAST AND PRESENT + + + BY + MATURIN M. BALLOU + AUTHOR OF "DUE WEST; OR ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS" + + + BOSTON AND NEW YORK + HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY + The Riverside Press, Cambridge + + + Copyright, 1885, + By MATURIN M. BALLOU. + + _All rights reserved._ + + + ELEVENTH IMPRESSION + + + _The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A._ + Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +The public favor accorded to a late volume by the author of these +pages, entitled "Due West; or Round the World in Ten Months," has +suggested both the publication and the title of the volume in hand, +which consists of notes of a voyage to the tropics, and a sojourn +in Cuba during the last winter. The endeavor has been to present a +comprehensive view of the island, past and present, and to depict +the political and moral darkness which have so long enshrouded it. +A view of its interesting inhabitants, with a glance at its beautiful +flora and vegetation generally, has been a source of such hearty +enjoyment to the author that he desires to share the pleasure with +the appreciative reader. The great importance of the geographical +position of the island, its present critical condition, and the +proposed treaty of commerce with this country, together render it +at present of unusual interest in the eyes of the world. If possible, +Cuba is more Castilian than peninsular Spain, and both are so Moorish +as to present a fascinating study of national characteristics. + + M. M. B. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + PAGE + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. 1 + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. 24 + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. 46 + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. 70 + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. 88 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. 102 + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. 125 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitues of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafes. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. 144 + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Army. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortege. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. 166 + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor-General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. 184 + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. 200 + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. -- The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. 219 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from San + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. 236 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of San Domingo. -- General Emancipation. 260 + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. 282 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. 300 + + + + + DUE SOUTH. + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + Departure. -- On Board Ship. -- Arrival at Nassau. -- Capital + of the Bahamas. -- Climate. -- Soil. -- Fruits and Flowers. + -- Magic Fertility. -- Colored Population. -- The Blockade + Runners. -- Population. -- Products. -- A Picturesque Local + Scene. -- Superstition. -- Fish Story. -- The Silk-Cotton + Tree. -- Remarkable Vegetation. -- The Sea Gardens. -- Marine + Animal Life. -- The Bahama Banks. -- Burial at Sea. -- Venal + Officials. -- Historical Characters. -- The Early Buccaneers. + -- Diving for Drinking-Water. + + +We left Boston in a blustering snow-storm on the morning of February +25th, and reached New York city to find it also clothed in a wintry +garb, Broadway being lined on either side of its entire length with +tall piles of snow, like haycocks, prepared for carting away during +the coming night. Next morning, when we drove to the dock to take +passage on board the steamship Cienfuegos, the snow-mounds had all +been removed. The mail steamer sailed promptly at the hour assigned, +hauled out into the stream by a couple of noisy little tugs, with +two-inch hawsers made fast to stem and stern. Before sunset the pilot +left the ship, which was then headed due south for Nassau, N. P., +escorted by large fields of floating ice, here and there decked with +lazy snow-white sea-gulls. The sharp northwest wind, though +blustering and aggressive, was in our favor, and the ship spread all +her artificial wings as auxiliary to her natural motor. We doubled +Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout well in towards the shore, sighting on +the afternoon of the fourth day the Island of Abaco, largest of the +Bahama Isles, with its famous "Hole in the Wall" and sponge-lined +shore. The woolen clothing worn when we came on board ship had already +become oppressive, the cabin thermometer indicating 72 deg. Fahrenheit. +With nothing to engage the eye save the blue sky and the bluer water, +the most is made of every circumstance at sea, and even trivial +occurrences become notable. The playful dolphins went through their +aquatic pantomime for our amusement. Half a dozen of them started off +just ahead of the cutwater, and raced the ship for two hours, keeping +exactly the same relative distance ahead without any apparent effort. +Scores of others leaped out of the water and plunged in again in +graceful curves, as though they enjoyed the sport. A tiny land bird +flew on board, and was chased all over the ship by one or two +juveniles until caught, panting and trembling with the unwonted +exertion. Presently it was given its liberty, partook freely of bread +crumbs and drank of fresh water, then assumed a perch aloft, where it +carefully dressed its feathers, and after thanking its entertainers +with a few cheerful notes it extended its wings and launched out into +space, no land being in sight. The broken mainmast of a ship, +floating, with considerable top hamper attached, was passed within a +cable's length, suggestive of a recent wreck, and inducing a thousand +dreary surmises. At first it was announced as the sea serpent, but its +true nature was soon obvious. At midnight, March 1st, Nassau light +hove in sight, dimmed by a thin, soft haze, which hung over the water, +and through which the light, by some law of refraction, seemed to be +coming out to meet the ship. Overhead all was bright,--almost dazzling +with unnumbered stars and familiar constellations, like silver +spangles on a background of blue velvet. We anchored off the island an +hour before daylight, the harbor being too shallow to admit the ship. +A forbidding sand bar blocks the entrance, inside of which the water +is but fifteen feet deep. Indeed, Nassau would have no harbor at all +were it not that nature has kindly placed Hog Island in the form of a +break-water, just off the town. The vibrating hull of the Cienfuegos +was once more at rest; the stout heart-throbs, the panting and +trembling, of the great engine had ceased; the wheelhouse and decks +were deserted, and one was fain to turn in below for a brief nap +before landing on this the most populous of the Bahamas. + +The island, which was settled by Europeans as early as 1629, embraces +nearly a hundred square miles, forming an oasis in the desert of +waters. It is sixteen miles long and about one half as wide, +containing fourteen thousand inhabitants, more or less, who can hardly +be designated as an enterprising community. On first landing, +everything strikes the visitor as being peculiarly foreign,--almost +unique. The town is situated on the northerly front of the island, +extending along the shore for a couple of miles, and back to a crest +of land which rises to nearly the height of a hundred feet. This +elevation is crowned by the residence of the English Governor-General, +in front of which may be seen a colossal but not admirable statue of +Columbus. The town boasts a small public library, a museum, theatre, +several small churches, a prison, a hospital, and a bank. The +government maintains one company of infantry, composed of black men, +officered by whites. It must be admitted that they present a fine +military appearance when on parade. Nassau has long been a popular +resort for invalids who seek a soft, equable climate, and as it lies +between the warm South Atlantic and the Gulf Stream it is +characterized by the usual temperature of the tropics. There seemed to +be a certain enervating influence in the atmosphere, under the effects +of which the habitues of the place were plainly struck with a spirit +of indolence. The difference between those just arrived and the +regular guests of the Victoria Hotel, in this respect, could not fail +to be observed. The languidly oppressive warmth imparts a certain +softness to manners, a voluptuous love of idleness, and a glow to the +affections which are experienced with less force at the North. Neither +snow nor frost is ever encountered here, and yet it is as near to +Boston or New York as is the city of Chicago. The temperature, we are +told, never falls below 64 deg. Fahrenheit, nor rises above 82 deg., the +variations rarely exceeding five degrees in twenty-four hours. In +Florida a change of twenty degrees is not unusual within the period of +a single day. The thermometer stood at 73 deg. on the first day of March, +and everything was bathed in soft sunlight. + +It is somewhat singular that an island like New Providence, which is +practically without soil, should be so remarkably productive in its +vegetation. It is surrounded by low-lying coral reefs, and is itself +composed of coral and limestone. These, pulverized, actually form the +earth out of which spring noble palm, banana, ceiba, orange, lemon, +tamarind, almond, mahogany, and cocoanut trees, with a hundred and one +other varieties of fruits, flowers, and woods, including the +bread-fruit tree, that natural food for indolent natives of equatorial +regions. Of course in such a soil the plough is unknown, its +substitutes being the pickaxe and crowbar. However, science teaches us +that all soils are but broken and decomposed rock, pulverized by +various agencies acting through long periods of time. So the molten +lava which once poured from the fiery mouth of Vesuvius has become the +soil of thriving vineyards, which produce the priceless Lachryma +Christi wine. This transformation is not accomplished in a lifetime, +but is the result of ages of slow disintegration. + +Among other flowering trees, some strikingly beautiful specimens of +the alligator-pear in full bloom were observed, the blossom suggesting +the passion-flower. While our favorite garden plants at the North are +satisfied to bloom upon lowly bushes, at the South they are far more +ambitious, and develop into tall trees, though sometimes at the +partial expense of their fragrance. The air was full of sweet perfume +from the white blossoms of the shaddock, contrasting with the deep +glossy green of its thick-set leaves, the spicy pimento and cinnamon +trees being also noticeable. With all this charming floral effect the +bird melody which greets the ear in Florida was wanting, though it +would seem to be so natural an adjunct to the surroundings. Nature's +never-failing rule of compensation is manifested here: all the +attractions are not bestowed upon any one class; brilliancy of +feathers and sweetness of song do not go together. The torrid zone +endows the native birds with brilliant plumage, while the colder North +gives its feathered tribes the winning charm of melody. + +The soil of these Bahama Islands, composed of such unpromising +ingredients, shows in its prolific yield how much vegetation depends +for its sustenance upon atmospheric air, especially in tropical +climes. The landlord of the Victoria Hotel told us, as an evidence of +the fertility of the soil, that radish seeds which were planted on the +first day of the month would sufficiently mature and ripen by the +twenty-first--that is in three weeks--for use upon the table; and also +that potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons were relatively +expeditious in ripening here after planting. Our mind reverted to the +jugglers of Madras and Bombay, who made an orange-tree grow from the +seed, and bear fruit before our very eyes, at a single sitting. + +The luscious pineapple, zapota, mango, pomegranate, guava, star-apple, +citron, custard-apple, mammee, and other fruits abound. The +profuseness and variety of beautiful ferns and orchidaceous plants +will also be sure to attract the attention of the Northern visitor. +The rocky formation of the soil produces good natural roads, so that a +long drive in the environs of Nassau is like a pleasure excursion over +a well-macadamized thoroughfare. We were told of a delightful drive of +fifteen miles in length which follows the sea beach the whole +distance, but did not find time to test its attractions, though +strongly tempted by the excellence of the roads. Here, as in other +tropical regions, each month has its special floral display, although +there are many, and indeed a majority, of the plants which continue to +flower all the year round. We observed that the stone walls and +hedges were now and again covered for short spaces with the +coral-vine, whose red blossoms, so pleasing to the eye, emit no odor. +The yellow jasmine was dazzlingly conspicuous everywhere, and very +fragrant. Red and white roses, various species of cacti, and +tube-roses bloomed before the rude thatched cabins of the negroes in +the environs, as well as in the tiny front gardens of the whites in +the streets of the town; while red, white, and pink oleanders grew as +tall as trees, and flower here every month in the year. The +night-blooming cereus abounds, opening just at sunset, and closing +again at break of day. The outside leaves of this poetical flower are +of a pale green, the inner ones of a pure wax-like white, and the +petals light yellow. Complete, it is about eight inches long, and from +twelve to fifteen in circumference. + +While we drove through the suburbs, slatternly, half-clothed family +groups of negroes watched us with curious eyes, and on the road aged +colored men and women were occasionally met, who saluted us with grave +dignity. No one seemed to be at work; sunshine was the only +perceptible thing going on, ripening the fruits and vegetables by its +genial rays, while the negroes waited for the harvest. Like the birds, +they had no occasion to sow, but only to pluck and to eat. There was, +both in and out of the town, a tumble-down, mouldy aspect to the +dwellings, which seemed to be singularly neglected and permitted to +lapse into decay. With the exception of the town of Nassau, and its +immediate environs, New Providence is nearly all water and wilderness; +it has some circumscribed lakes, but no mountains, rivers, or +rivulets. The island is justly famous for the beauty and variety of +its lovely flowers. It is true that the rose is not quite equal in +color, development, and fragrance to ours of the North; Nature has so +many indigenous flowers on which to expend her liberality that she +bestows less attention upon this, the loveliest of them all. The +Cherokee rose, single-leafed, now so rare with us, seems here to have +found a congenial foreign home. In the suburbs of Nassau are many +attractive flowers, fostered only by the hand of Nature. Among them +was the triangular cactus, with its beautiful yellow blossom, like a +small sunflower, supported by a deep green triangular stem. + +The pendulous cactus was also hanging here and there on walls and tree +trunks, in queer little jointed, pipe-stem branches. The royal palm, +that king of tropical vegetation, is not very abundant here, but yet +sufficiently so to characterize the place. Its roots resemble those of +asparagus, and are innumerable. Another peculiarity of the palm is +that it starts a full-sized trunk; therefore, not the diameter, but +the height, determines its age, which is recorded by annual concentric +rings clearly defined upon its tall, straight stem. + +During the late civil war in the United States, when blockade runners +made this place a port of call and a harbor for refitting, it was by +English connivance practically a Confederate port. The officers and +sailors expended their ill-gotten wealth with the usual lavishness of +the irresponsible, the people of Nassau reaping thereby a fabulous +harvest in cash. This was quite demoralizing to honest industry, and, +as might be expected, a serious reaction has followed. Legitimate +trade and industry will require years before they can reassert +themselves. Sudden and seeming prosperity is almost sure to be equally +transitory. We were told that, during the entire period in which the +Confederates resorted here under the open encouragement and protection +of England, the town was the scene of the most shameful drunken orgies +from morning until night. Lewdness and crime were rampant. Officers +played pitch-penny on the veranda of the Victoria Hotel with gold +eagles, and affiliated openly with negresses. The evil influence upon +all concerned was inevitable, and its poisonous effect is not yet +obliterated. + +Three quarters of the present population are negroes, but of course +all trace of the aborigines has disappeared. It is curious and +interesting to know what Columbus thought of them. He wrote to his +royal mistress, after having explored these Bahamas, as follows: "This +country excels all others as far as the day surpasses the night in +splendor; the natives love their neighbors as themselves: their +conversation is the sweetest imaginable, and their faces are always +smiling. So gentle and so affectionate are they that I swear to your +highness there is no better people in the world." + +The negroes are mostly engaged in cultivating patches of pineapples, +and yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables; a large number of the +males employ themselves also in fishing and gathering sponges. It will +be remembered that from this locality comes the principal supply of +coarse sponge for Europe and America. There is also a considerable +trade, carried on in a small way, in fine turtle-shell, which is +polished in an exquisite manner, and manufactured by the natives into +ornaments. Though the Bahama sponges are not equal to those obtained +in the Mediterranean, still they are marketable, and Nassau exports +half a million dollars' worth annually. It is a curious fact that +sponges can be propagated by cuttings taken from living specimens, +which, when attached to a piece of board and sunk in the sea, will +increase and multiply. Thus the finest Mediterranean specimens may be +successfully transplanted to the coral reefs of these islands, the +only requisite to their sustenance seeming to be a coralline shore and +limestone surroundings. Another important industry which gives +employment to a considerable number of the inhabitants is the canning +of pineapples, a process which is equivalent to preserving them for +any length of time. One firm on Bay Street, as we were informed, +canned and exported nearly a million of pines in one season, lately; +and another, engaged in the fresh-fruit trade, shipped to the States +fifteen cargoes of pines in one year, besides many thousands of +cocoanuts. These are not all raised in Nassau, but this port is made +the headquarters for collecting and disposing of the fruit grown upon +what are termed the out-islands, as well as marketing the large +product of its own soil. It is but a short drive inland to the +extensive pineapple fields, where the handsome fruit may be seen in +the several stages of growth, varying according to the season of the +year. If intended for exportation, the fruit is gathered green; if for +canning purposes, the riper it is the better. The visitor will also be +impressed by the beauty and grace of the cocoanut trees, their pinnate +leaves often a hundred feet from the ground, notwithstanding the bare +cylindrical stem attains a thickness of only two feet. + +The Royal Victoria Hotel, though bearing a loyal name, is kept by an +American, and is a very substantial, capacious building, composed of +native limestone, four stories high, three of which are surrounded by +wide piazzas, which afford the shade so necessary in a land of +perpetual summer. The native stone of which the island is composed is +so soft when first quarried that it can easily be cut or sawed into +any shape desired, but it hardens very rapidly after exposure to the +atmosphere. The hotel will accommodate three hundred guests, and is a +positive necessity for the comfort and prosperity of the place. It was +built and is owned by the British government, who erected it some +twenty-five years since. At the time of our arrival there was gathered +under the lofty Moorish portico of the hotel a most picturesque group +of negroes, of both sexes and of all ages, their ebony faces forming a +strong contrast to the background of well-whitewashed walls. Some of +the women were dressed in neat calico gowns, and wore broad-brimmed +straw hats; some were in rags, hatless, shoeless, and barelegged; some +had high-colored kerchiefs wound turban-like about their woolly heads; +and some wore scarlet shawls, the sight of which would have driven a +Spanish bull raving mad. There were coquettish mulatto girls with +bouquets for sale, and fancy flowers wrought of shells; these last of +most exquisite workmanship. Specimens of this native shell-work were +sent to the Vienna Exposition, where they received honorable mention, +and were afterwards purchased and presented to the Prince of Wales. +Old gray-haired negroes, with snow-white beards on a black ground, +offered fruits in great variety,--zapotas, mangoes, pineapples, and +grape-fruit. Others had long strings of sponges for sale, wound +round their shoulders like huge snakes; some of these were good, but +many were utterly useless. No one knows this better than the cunning +negroes themselves, but strangers, only touching at Nassau, they do +not expect to see again, and there is proverbially cheating in all +trades but ours. A bright, thrifty-looking colored woman had spread +out her striped shawl upon the ground, and on this arrayed a really +fine collection of conch-shells for sale, delicately polished, and of +choice shapes. When first brought to the surface by the divers they +are not infrequently found to contain pearls imbedded in the palatable +and nutritious meat. These pearls are generally of a pinkish hue, and +greatly prized by the jewelers. Now and then a diver will realize a +hundred dollars for one of them. From the conch-shell also come the +best shell cameos. A smart half-breed offered canes of ebony, lignum +vitae, lance, and orange wood, all of native growth. He was dressed in +a white linen jacket, pantaloons to match, with a semi-military cap, +cocked on one side of his head,--quite a colored dude. The women who +sell native-made baskets are most persistent, but if you purchase of +them make your own change, for they are apt to take money away for +this purpose and to forget to return. Negro nature is frail, +characterized at Nassau by theft and licentiousness, but great crimes +are rare. If you have occasion to hire a boat for a sail in the +harbor, be sure to find and employ "Bushy," a tall, intelligent +darkey, the best boatman and stroke-oar in Nassau. + +Bushy showed us what he called a fish-whip, made from the whipray, a +fish quite new to us, but indigenous to these waters. With a body +shaped like a flounder, it has a tail often ten feet long, tapering +from about one inch in thickness at the butt to an eighth of an inch +at the small end. When dried this resembles whalebone, and makes a +good coach-whip. There is a great variety of fish in and about the +Bahamas. We saw, just landed at Nassau, a jew-fish, which takes the +same place here that the halibut fills at the North, being cut into +steaks and fried in a similar manner. They are among the largest of +edible fish, and this specimen weighed about four hundred pounds. +According to Bushy, at certain seasons of the year the jew-fish lies +dormant upon the sandy bottom, and refuses to take the bait. In these +transparent waters he is easily seen when in this condition, and the +native fishermen then dive down and place a stout hook in his mouth! +Though this may sound like a "fish story," we were assured by others +of its truth. Bushy undertook to give us the names of the various +fishes which abound here, but the long list of them and his peculiar +pronunciation drove us nearly wild. Still a few are remembered; such +as the yellow-tailed snapper, striped snapper, pork-fish, angel-fish, +cat-fish, hound-fish, the grouper, sucking-fish, and so on. Both +harbor and deep sea fishing afford the visitor to Nassau excellent +amusement, and many sportsmen go thither annually from New York solely +for its enjoyment. + +The colored people of Nassau, as we were assured by one competent to +speak upon the subject, form a religious community, according to the +ordinary acceptation of the term. They are very fond of church-going, +and of singing and shouting on all religious occasions. Nervously +emotional, they work themselves up to a hysterical condition so +furious as to threaten their sanity, but having naturally so little of +that qualification, they are pretty safe. No people could possibly be +more superstitious. They shut up and double lock the doors and windows +of their cabins at night to keep out evil spirits. There are regular +professional man-witches among them, persons a little shrewder and +more cunning than their fellows. The very ignorant believe in a sort +of fetichism, so that when a boat starts on a sponge-fishing trip, the +obeah man is called upon for some cooeperation and mysticism, to insure +a successful return of the crew. The sponge fishermen have several +hundred boats regularly licensed, and measuring on an average twenty +tons each. On favorable occasions these men lay aside their legitimate +calling, and become for the time being wreckers, an occupation which +verges only too closely upon piracy. The intricate navigation of these +waters, dotted by hundreds of small reefs and islands, and which can +be traversed by only three safe channels, has furnished in former +years a large amount of shipwrecked merchandise to Nassau. The +wrecking business at best is extremely demoralizing, unfitting any +community of men for legitimate industry, as we know very well by the +experience gained on our own Florida shore. Men who have cruised +fruitlessly for months in search of a profitable wreck will sometimes +be tempted to decoy a ship from her proper course, and lead her upon +the rocks, by a display of false lights. + +In front of the Victoria Hotel are some noble specimens of the ceiba, +or silk-cotton tree, as it is called here, the finest and loftiest we +have seen in any country. These trees, naturally slow growers, must +be over a century in age, and afford, by their widespread branches, a +shade equally graceful and grateful. Like the india-rubber trees of +Asia, these ceibas have at least one half of their anaconda-like roots +exposed upon the surface of the ground, dividing the lower portion of +the stem into supporting buttresses, a curious piece of finesse on the +part of nature to overcome the disadvantage of insufficient soil. The +tree bears annually a large seed-pod, packed with cotton of a soft, +silky texture, and hence its name. It is, however, suitable neither +for timber nor fuel, and the small product of cotton is seldom if ever +gathered. The islanders are proud of a single specimen of the banyan +tree of considerable size, which they show to all visitors; but it +cannot be indigenous--it must have been brought in its youth from +Asia. There is, however, in these West Indian isles, the black +mangrove, with very similar habit to the banyan. The limbs spread to +such an extent from the trunk as to require support to prevent them +from breaking off or bending to the ground by their own weight; but to +obviate this, nature has endowed the tree with a peculiar growth. When +the branches have become so heavy as to be no longer able to support +themselves, they send forth from the under side sprigs which, rapidly +descending to the ground, take root like the banyan, and become +supporting columns to the heavy branches above. So the writer has seen +in Hindostan a vine which grew, almost leafless, closely +entwined around the trees to the very top, whence it descended, took +fresh root, and ascended the nearest adjoining tree, until it had gone +on binding an entire grove in a ligneous rope. Long tendrils of the +love-vine, that curious aerial creeper, which feeds on air alone, +were seen hanging across some of the low branches of the Nassau trees, +and we were told that the plant will grow equally well if hung upon a +nail indoors. Emblematic of true affection, it clings, like Japanese +ivy, tenaciously to the object it fixes upon. One specimen was shown +to us which had developed to the size of the human hand from a single +leaf carelessly pinned by a guest to one of the chamber walls of the +hotel. + +There are said to be six hundred of the Bahama islands, large and +small, of which Nassau is the capital, and there, as already +intimated, the English Governor-General resides. This numerical +calculation is undoubtedly correct; many are mere rocky islets, and +not more than twenty have fixed inhabitants. Is there anything more +wonderful in nature than that these hundreds of isles should have been +built up from the bottom of the sea by insects so small as to be +microscopic? All lie north of Cuba and St. Domingo, just opposite the +Gulf of Mexico, easily accessible from our own shores by a short and +pleasant sea-voyage of three or four days. They are especially +inviting to those persons who have occasion to avoid the rigor of +Northern winters. People threatened with consumption seek Nassau on +sanitary principles, and yet it was found upon inquiry that many +natives die of that insidious disease, which rapidly runs its career +when it is first developed in a tropical climate. To the author it +would seem that consumptives might find resorts better adapted to the +recovery of their health. Intermittent fever, also, is not unknown at +Nassau. + +The sea gardens, as they are called, situated just off the shores of +the island, are well worth a visit; where, by means of a simple +instrument of wood and glass, one is enabled to look many fathoms +below the surface of the water, which is here so remarkable for its +transparency. These water glasses are all of home manufacture, easily +improvised, being formed of a small wooden box three or four inches +square, open at the top, and having a water-tight glass bottom. With +the glass portion slightly submerged, one is enabled to see distinctly +the beautiful coral reefs, with their marvelous surroundings. There +are displayed tiny caves and grottoes of white coral of great delicacy +and variety, star-fishes, sea-urchins, growing sponges, sea-fans, and +gaudy-colored tropical fishes, including the humming-bird-fish, and +others like butterflies with mottled fins and scales, and that little +oddity the rainbow-fish. The prevailing color of this attractive +creature is dark green, but the tinted margins of its scales so +reflect the light as to show all the colors of the rainbow, and hence +its name. When bottled in alcohol, these fairy-like denizens of the +deep lose their brilliancy, which they exhibit only in their native +element. This unique display is greatly enhanced in beauty by the +clearness of the Bahama waters, and the reflected light from the +snow-white sandy bottom, dotted here and there by curious and delicate +shells of opalescent lustre. One longs to descend among these coral +bowers,--these mermaid-gardens,--and pluck of the submarine flora in +its purple, yellow, and scarlet freshness. + +It will be remembered that Columbus wrote home to his royal patrons +that the fish which abounded in the seas partook of the same novelty +which characterized everything else in the New World. This was about +four hundred years ago, before the great Genoese had discovered Cuba. +"The fish," as he wrote, "rivaled the birds in tropical brilliancy of +color, the scales of some of them glancing back the rays of light like +precious stones, as they sported about the ships and flashed gleams of +gold and silver through the clear water." + +The surface life of these translucent waters is also extremely +interesting. Here the floating jelly-fish, called, from its +phosphorescence, the glow-worm of the sea, is observed in great +variety, sheltering little colonies of young fishes within its +tentacles, which rush forth for a moment to capture some passing mite, +and as quickly return again to their shelter. One takes up a handful +of the floating gulf-weed and finds, within the pale yellow leaves and +berries, tiny pipe-fish, sea-horses, and the little nest-building +antennarius, thus forming a buoyant home for parasites, crabs, and +mollusks, itself a sort of mistletoe of the ocean. The young of the +mackerel and the herring glance all about just beneath the surface +near the shore, like myriad pieces of silver. Now and again that +particolored formation of marine life, the Portuguese man-of-war, is +observed, its long ventral fins spread out like human fingers to +steady it upon the surface of the water. Verily, the German scientist +who says there is more of animal life beneath the surface of the sea +than above it cannot be far amiss. This seems to be the more +reasonable when we consider the relative proportions of land and +water. The whole surface of the globe is supposed to have an area of +about two hundred million square miles. Of these only about fifty +millions are dry land. Within the harbor of Nassau the divisions of +shoal and deep water presented most singular and clearly defined +lines of color, azure, purple, and orange-leaf green,--so marked as to +be visible half a mile away. All was beneath a sky so deeply and +serenely blue as constantly to recall the arching heavens of middle +India. + +The Bahama Banks is a familiar expression to most of us, but perhaps +few clearly understand the significance of the term, which is applied +to a remarkable plateau at the western extremity of the archipelago, +occupying a space between two and three hundred miles long, and about +one third as wide. These banks, as they are called, rise almost +perpendicularly from an unfathomable depth of water, and are of coral +formation. In sailing over them the bottom is distinctly seen from the +ship's deck, the depth of water being almost uniformly forty to fifty +feet. Some years since, when the author was crossing these banks in a +sailing ship, a death occurred among the foremast hands, and the usual +sea burial followed. The corpse was sewn up in a hammock, with iron +weights at the feet, the more readily to sink it. After reading the +burial service the body was launched into the sea from a grating +rigged out of a gangway amidship. The waters were perfectly calm, and +the barque had but little headway. Indeed, we lay almost as still as +though anchored, so that the body was seen to descend slowly alongside +until it reached the calcareous, sandy bottom, where it assumed an +upright and strangely lifelike position, as though standing upon its +feet. An ominous silence reigned among the watching crew, and it was a +decided relief to all hands when a northerly wind sprang up, filling +the canvas and giving the vessel steerage way. + +So many years have passed since the occurrence of the scene just +related that we may give its sequel without impropriety, though, at +the same time, we expose the venal character of Spanish officials. The +man we buried on the Bahama Banks had died of small-pox, though no +other person on board showed any symptoms of the disease. On entering +the harbor of Havana, three days later, we had been hailed from Moro +Castle and had returned the usual answer. A couple of doubloons in +gold made the boarding officer conveniently blind, and a similar fee +thrust quietly into the doctor's hand insured a "clean bill of +health," under which we were permitted to land! The alternative was +twenty-one days' quarantine. + +Fort Montague, mounting four rusty guns, "with ne'er a touch-hole to +any on 'em," as Bushy informed us, stands upon a projecting point +about a mile from the town of Nassau, the road thither forming a +delightful evening promenade, or drive. The fort is old, crumbling, +and time-worn, but was once occupied by the buccaneers as a most +important stronghold commanding the narrow channel. These sea-robbers +imposed a heavy tax upon all shipping passing this way, and for many +years realized a large income from this source. It was only piracy in +another form. Most vessels found it cheaper to pay than to fight. When +the notorious Black Beard had his headquarters at Nassau, he sought no +such pretext, but preyed upon all commerce alike, provided the vessels +were not too well armed to be captured. This notorious pirate had an +innate love for cruelty, and often tortured his captives without any +apparent purpose, after the fashion of our Western Indians. When the +English lashed the mutineers of Delhi and Cawnpore to the muzzles of +their cannon and blew them to pieces, they were enacting no new +tragedy; legend and history tell us that Black Beard, the pirate of +the Windward Passage, set them that example many years before. His +rule was to murder all prisoners who would not join his ship, and +those whom he took fighting, that is, with arms in their hands, were +subjected to torture, one form of which was that of lashing captives +to the cannon's mouth and applying the match. Fort Montague is not +occupied by even a corporal's guard to-day, and is of no efficiency +whatever against modern gunnery. The reader will thus observe that the +principal business which has engaged Nassau heretofore has been +wrecking, buccaneering, privateering, and blockade running. + +Some noted characters have found an asylum here, first and last. After +Lord Dunmore left Virginia he sought official position and made a home +on the island. He was appointed governor, and some of the buildings +erected by him are still pointed out to the visitor, especially that +known as the Old Fort, just back of the Victoria Hotel, crowning the +height. His summer seat, known as the Hermitage, is a quaint old +place, still in fair condition, and surrounded by oaks and cocoanut +trees, near the sea. Such matters do not often get into history, but +legend tells us that some strange orgies took place at the Hermitage, +where the play was for heavy stakes, and the drinking was of a similar +excessive character. + +Another well-known individual who sought to make a home here, and also +to escape from all former associations, was the notorious +Blennerhasset, a name familiar in connection with Aaron Burr. After +his trial, it will be remembered that he suddenly disappeared, and +was heard of no more. He left his country for his country's good, +changing his name to that of Carr. His objective point was Nassau; +there his undoubted talent and legal ability were duly recognized and +he was appointed government attorney, officiating in that capacity for +a number of years. Having deserted his first wife, he found another to +console him upon the island. At last wife number one appeared upon the +island. She had discovered his hiding-place, and a domestic war +ensued. Wife number two carried the day and the rightful spouse was +sent away and paid an annuity to keep away. The pretended Mr. Carr is +said to have finally lapsed into habits of excessive intemperance, and +to have found a stranger's grave on the island. + +Much of the drinking water, and certainly the best in use at Nassau, +as well as on some of the neighboring islands, is procured in a +remarkable, though very simple manner, from the sea. Not far from +shore, on the coral reefs, there are never-failing fresh water +springs, bubbling up from the bottom through the salt water with such +force as clearly to indicate their locality. Over these ocean springs +the people place sunken barrels filled with sand, one above another, +the bottoms and tops being displaced. The fresh water is thus +conducted to the surface through the column of sand, which forms a +perfect filterer. Such a crude arrangement is only temporary, liable +to be displaced by any severe storm which should agitate the +surrounding waters. If destroyed in the hurricane season, these +structures are not renewed until settled weather. In so small and low +lying an island as that of Nassau, it is very plain that this crystal +liquid, pure and tasteless, cannot come from any rainfall upon the +soil, and its existence, therefore, suggests a problem, the solving of +which we submit to the scientists. + +On the arid shores of the Persian Gulf, where rain so seldom falls, +and where there are no rills to refresh the parched soil, fresh water +is also obtained from submerged springs beneath the salt water. Here +it is brought to the surface by divers, who descend with a leather +bag, the mouth of which being opened over the bubbling spring is +quickly filled and closed again, being drawn to the surface by those +who are left there to assist the diver, who hastens upward for air. In +descending his feet are weighted with stones, which being cast off at +the proper moment, he naturally rises at once to the surface. This +operation is repeated until a sufficient quantity of fresh water is +procured. There is no mystery, however, as to the source of these +springs. The rain first falls on the distant mountains, and finding +its way downward through the fissures of rocky ledges, pursues its +course until it gushes forth in the bed of the gulf. + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + Among the Islands. -- San Salvador. -- A Glimpse at the + Stars. -- Hayti. -- The Gulf Stream. -- The Caribbean Sea. -- + Latitude and Longitude. -- The Southern Coast of Cuba. -- A + Famous Old Fortress. -- Fate of Political Prisoners. -- The + Oldest City in Cuba. -- The Aborigines. -- Cuban Cathedrals. + -- Drinking Saloons. -- Dogs, Horses, and Coolies. -- Scenes + in Santiago de Cuba. -- Devoured by Sharks. -- Lying at + Anchor. -- Wreck of a Historic Ship. -- Cuban Circulating + Medium. -- Tropical Temperature. + + +After leaving Nassau we stood northward for half a day in order to get +a safe and proper channel out of the crooked Bahamas, where there is +more of shoal than of navigable waters, leaving a score of small +islands behind us inhabited only by turtles, flamingoes, and sea +birds. But we were soon steaming due south again towards our objective +point, the island of Cuba, five hundred miles away. San Salvador was +sighted on our starboard bow, the spot where Columbus first landed in +the New World, though even this fact has not escaped the specious +arguments of the iconoclasts. Nevertheless, we gazed upon it with +reverent credulity. It will be found laid down on most English maps as +Cat Island, and is now the home of two or three thousand colored +people. San Salvador is nearly as large as New Providence, and is said +to claim some special advantages over that island in the quality of +its fruits. It is claimed that the oranges grown here are the sweetest +and best in the world, the same excellence being attributed to its +abundant yield of pineapples and other tropical fruits. + +There are so many of these small islands in the Bahama group that the +geographers may be excused for the heterogeneous manner in which they +have placed them on the common maps. To find their true and relative +position one must consult the sailing-charts, where absolute +correctness is supposed to be found, a prime necessity in such +intricate navigation. The total population of the Bahamas has been +ascertained, by census, to be a fraction less than forty thousand. + +The voyager in these latitudes is constantly saluted by gentle breezes +impregnated with tropical fragrance, intensified in effect by the +distant view of cocoanut, palmetto, and banana trees, clothing the +islands and growing down to the water's very edge. As we glide along, +gazing shoreward, now and again little groups of swallows seem to be +flitting only a few feet above the water for a considerable distance, +and then suddenly disappearing beneath the waves. These are +flying-fish enjoying an air bath, either in frolic or in fear; +pursued, may be, by some aqueous enemy, to escape from whom they essay +these aerial flights. The numerous islands, very many of which are +uninhabited, have yet their recorded names, more or less +characteristic, such as Rum Key, Turk's Island,--famous for the export +of salt,--Bird Rock, Fortune Island, Great and Little Inagua, Crooked +Island, and so on, all more or less noted for the disastrous wrecks +which have occurred on their low coralline shores. Our Northern cities +are largely dependent upon the Bahamas for their early annual supplies +of pineapples, cocoanuts, oranges, bananas, and some vegetables, in +which they are all more or less prolific. Here also is the harvest +field of the conchologist, the beaches and coral reefs affording an +abundant supply of exquisitely colored shells, of all imaginable +shapes, including the large and valuable conch-shell, of which many +thousand dollars' worth are annually exported, the contents first +serving the divers for food. + +It was interesting to remain on deck at night and watch the heavens, +as we glided silently through the phosphorescent sea. Was it possible +the grand luminary, which rendered objects so plain that one could +almost read fine print with no other help, shone solely by borrowed +light? We all know it to be so, and also that Venus, Mars, Jupiter, +and Saturn shine in a similar manner with light reflected from the +sun. It was curious to adjust the telescope and bring the starry +system nearer to the vision. If we direct our gaze upon a planet we +find its disk sharply defined; change the direction and let it rest +upon a star, and we have only a point of light, more or less +brilliant. The glass reveals to us the fact that the star-dust which +we call the Milky Way is an aggregation of innumerable single suns. +Sweeping the arching blue with the telescope, we find some stars are +golden, some green, others purple, many silvery-white, and some are +twins. Probably there is no such thing as stars of the first and +second magnitude, as the common expression names them. It is most +likely only a question of distance, which regulates the brightness to +our vision. Science reduces the distances of heavenly bodies from our +earth to figures, but they are so immense as to be simply bewildering. +At the North the moon is silvery, but in tropical skies at night it +becomes golden, glowing, and luxurious in its splendor, never pale and +wan as it seems with us. + +When the lonely lighthouse which marks Cape Maysi, at the easterly +point of Cuba, hove in sight on the starboard bow, the dim form of the +mountains of Hayti was also visible on the opposite horizon. A +subterranean connection is believed to exist between the mountain +ranges of the two islands. + +When the outline of the Haytian mountains was in view, it was very +natural to express a wish to visit the island at some convenient time. +This led to some intelligent and interesting remarks from a compagnon +de voyage, who had resided for two years at Port-au-Prince, the +capital. "Unless you are compelled to land there," said he, "I advise +you to avoid Hayti." He fully confirmed the reports of its barbarous +condition, and declared it to be in a rapid decadence, as regarded +every desirable element of civilization. In the country, a short +distance from either Gonaives, Jacmel, or Port-au-Prince, where the +mass of the negro population live, Voudou worship and cannibalism are +quite common at the present time. The influence of the Voudou priests +is so much feared by the government that the horrible practice is +little interfered with. When the officials are forced to take +cognizance of the crime, the lightest possible punishment is imposed +upon the convicted parties. The island of San Domingo is about half +the size of Cuba, Hayti occupying one third of the western portion, +the rest of the territory belonging to the republic of San Domingo. +"As to Port-au-Prince," said our informant, "it is the dirtiest place +I have ever seen in any part of the world." Nevertheless, the historic +interest clustering about the island is very great. It was the seat of +the first Spanish colony founded in the New World. Its soil has been +bathed in the blood of Europeans as well as of its aboriginal +inhabitants. For three hundred years it was the arena of fierce +struggles between the French, Spaniards, and English, passing +alternately under the dominion of each of these powers, until finally, +torn by insurrection and civil war, in 1804 it achieved its +independence. The city of San Domingo, capital of the republic, is the +oldest existing settlement by white men in the New World, having been +founded in 1494 by Bartholomew Columbus. It contains to-day a little +less than seven thousand inhabitants. + +We gave Cape Maysi a wide berth, as a dangerous reef makes out from +the land, eastward, for a mile or more. The fixed light at this point +is a hundred and thirty feet above sea level, and is visible nearly +twenty miles off shore. + +We were running through the Windward Passage, as it was called by the +early navigators, and whence one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its +way northward. The Gulf Stream! Who can explain the mystery of its +motive power; what keeps its tepid waters in a course of thousands of +miles from mingling with the rest of the sea; whence does it come? The +accepted theories are familiar enough, but we do not believe them. +Maury says the Gulf of Mexico is its fountain, and its mouth is the +Arctic Sea. The maps make the eastern shore of Cuba terminate as +sharply as a needle's point, but it proved to be very blunt in +reality, as it forms the gateway to the Caribbean Sea, where the +irregular coast line runs due north and south for the distance of many +leagues. It is a low, rocky shore for the most part, but rises +gradually as it recedes inland, until it assumes the form of hills so +lofty as to merit the designation of mountains. + +There was on board of our ship an intelligent resident of Santiago, +who was enthusiastic in his description of the plains and valleys +lying beyond the hills which stood so prominently on the coast,--hills +probably older than any tongue in which we could describe them. The +Scriptural Garden of Eden has absolutely been placed here by +supposition on the part of traveled people. The temperature is simply +perfect, if we are to believe our informant; the vegetation is of a +primitive delicacy and beauty unequaled elsewhere; the fruits are +fabulously abundant and of the most perfect flavor; the water bubbles +forth from springs of crystal purity, and the flora is so lovely as to +inspire the most indifferent beholder with delight. "It is called the +Garden of Cuba," said the American Consul of Cienfuegos, "but many go +further, and declare it to be the location of the original Paradise." +Certain it is that the few Americans who have sought this so highly +praised region, though compelled to deny themselves the ordinary +comforts to be found in more accessible resorts, have admitted with +emphasis that nature, pure and undefiled, was here to be enjoyed in +unstinted measure. + +The hills bordering the shore and extending some distance inland +contain much undeveloped mineral wealth, such as iron, silver, and +gold. A mine of the former product is now being profitably worked by +an American company, and the ore regularly shipped to Pennsylvania for +smelting. This ore has special properties which render it more than +usually valuable, and it is even claimed to be the best iron mine in +the world. There is a strangely solitary and inhospitable appearance +about this portion of the island, devoid as it is of all human +habitations, and fringed either with long reaches of lonely +snow-white beach or rugged brown rocks. The volcanic appearance of the +land is significant of former upheavals, and this immediate region is +still occasionally troubled with geological chills and fever. + +The nights of early March in this latitude were exceedingly beautiful, +and solemnly impressive was the liberal splendor of the sky. The full +moon looked down upon and was reflected by waters of perfect +smoothness. River navigation could not have been more quiet than were +these nights on the blue Caribbean Sea. The air was as mild as June in +New England, while at night the Southern Cross and the North Star +blazed in the horizon at the same time. As we steered westward after +doubling the cape, both of these heavenly sentinels were seen abeam, +the constellation on our port side, and the North Star on the +starboard. Each day, at the noon hour, the passengers were interested +in watching the officers of the ship while they were "taking the sun," +to determine the latitude and longitude. Shall we put the process into +simple form for the information of the uninitiated? When the sun +reaches the meridian, or culminating point of ascension, the exact +moment is indicated by the instrument known as a quadrant, adjusted to +the eye of the observer. The figures marked on the quadrant give the +latitude of the ship at the moment of meridian. The ship's time is +then made to correspond, that is to say, it must indicate 12 o'clock, +M., after which it is compared with the chronometer's Greenwich time, +and the difference enables the observer to determine the longitude. As +fifteen miles are allowed to the minute, there will be nine hundred +miles to the hour. The importance of absolute correctness in the +chronometer will at once be realized, since, were it only three +minutes out of the way, it would render the calculation as to +longitude wrong by nearly fifty miles, which might be, and doubtless +often has been, the cause of wrecking a ship upon rocks laid down upon +the charts, but supposed to be far away. With the chronometer and the +quadrant observation correctly ascertained, the sailing-master can +prick off his exact situation on the chart. So long as the weather +will permit a clear view of the sun at noon, the ship's precise +location on the wide waste of waters can be known; but when continuous +cloudy weather prevails, the ship's course is calculated by what is +called dead reckoning, depending upon the speed and distance run as +indicated by the log, which is cast hourly under such circumstances, +and becomes the main factor in calculating the position of the ship. +Of course the result cannot be very accurate, but is a dernier +ressort. When land is in sight no observation is necessary, as the +bearing of the ship is then unmistakably defined. + +The sea was like molten sapphire as we glided swiftly along the +southern coast of Cuba, watching the gracefully undulating shore. The +mountains rose higher and higher, until they culminated in the lofty +peak of Pico Turquino (blue mountain), over ten thousand feet high, as +lately ascertained by actual measurement. There are coves and bays +along this coast where oysters _do_ grow upon trees, ridiculous as the +assertion first strikes the ear. The mangrove-trees extend their roots +from the shore into the sea, to which the oysters affix themselves, +growing and thriving until plucked by the fishermen. They are small +and of an inferior species compared with those of our own coast, but +are freely eaten in the island. Near the shore hereabouts are many +islets containing from three to five square miles, some of which are +quite barren, while others are delicious gardens, full of tropical +fruit trees, flowers, and odoriferous plants, where Paul and Virginia +might have felt quite at home, wandering hand in hand. + +Soon after passing the remarkably sheltered port of Guantanamo, which +was for nearly a century the most notorious piratical rendezvous in +the West Indies, the famous castle of Santiago is seen. It is known as +Moro Castle, but it antedates the more familiar Moro of Havana by a +full century. This antique, yellow, Moorish-looking stronghold--which +modern gunnery would destroy in about eight minutes--is picturesque to +the last degree, with its crumbling, honeycombed battlements, and +queer little flanking turrets, grated windows, and shadowy towers. It +is built upon the face of a lofty dun-colored rock, upon whose +precipitous side the fortification is terraced. It stands just at the +entrance of the narrow channel leading to the city, so that in passing +in one can easily exchange oral greetings with the sentry on the outer +battlement. What strikingly artistic pictures the light and shade +together formed with those time-stained walls, as we steamed slowly by +them! On the ocean side, directly under the castle, the sea has worn a +gaping cave, so deep that it has not been explored within the memory +of the people living in the neighborhood. The broad and lofty entrance +is in form as perfect an arch as could be drawn by the pencil of a +skillful architect. As is usual with such formations all over the +world, there is a romantic legend concerning the cave related as +connected with the olden time, and there is also a prevailing +superstition, that no one attempting to explore it will live to +return. + +In passing up the channel two or three little forts of queer +construction are seen, supplementing the larger one, placed upon +jutting headlands. The Moro of Santiago is now used as a prison for +political offenders; its days of defensive importance ended with the +period of the buccaneers, against whose crude means of warfare it was +an ample protection. As we steamed past it that sunny afternoon, +stimulated by the novelty of everything about us, a crowd of pallid, +sorrowful faces appeared at the grated windows, watching us +listlessly. Two days later five of them, who were condemned patriots, +were led out upon those ramparts and shot, their bodies falling into +the sea, and eight were sent to the penal settlement of Ceuta. Spain +extends no mercy to those who dare to raise their hands or voices in +favor of freedom; her political existence is sustained only in an +atmosphere of oppression and cruelty. Every page of her history is a +tableau of bloodshed and torture. The narrow winding channel which +leads from the open sea to the harbor passes through low hills and +broad meadows covered with rank verdure, cocoanut groves, and little +fishing hamlets. Thrifty laurels, palms with their graceful plumes of +foliage, and intensely green bananas line the way, with here and there +upon the banks a pleasant country house in the midst of a pretty +garden of flowering shrubs. So close is the shore all the while that +one seems to be navigating upon the land, gliding among trees and over +greensward rather than on blue water. Presently we pass a sharp angle +of the hills into a broad, sheltered bay, and before us lies the +quaint, rambling old city of Santiago de Cuba, built upon a hillside, +like Tangier in Africa, and nearly as Oriental as that capital of +Morocco. The first most conspicuous objects to meet the eye are the +twin towers of the ancient cathedral which have withstood so many +earthquakes. The weather-beaten old quartermaster on our forecastle +applies the match to his brass twelve-pounder, awaking a whole +broadside of echoes among the mountains, the big chain rushes swiftly +through the hawse-hole, and the ship swings at her anchor in the +middle of the picturesque bay. + +A boat was promptly secured with which to land at this ancient city, +founded by Velasquez. From the moment one touches the shore a sense of +being in a foreign land forces itself upon the new-comer. The +half-unintelligible language, the people, the architecture, the +manners, the vegetation, even the very atmosphere and the intensity of +the sunshine, are novel and attractive. It is easy to convey our +partial impressions of a new place, however unique it may be, but not +our inward sensations. The former are tangible, as it were, and may be +depicted; the latter are like atmospheric air, which cannot be seen, +but is felt. The many-colored, one-story houses of Santiago are +Moorish in architecture, ranged in narrow streets, which cross each +other at right angles with considerable regularity, but with roadways +in an almost impassable condition, lined with sidewalks of ten or +fifteen inches in width. These thoroughfares were once paved with +cobblestones, but are now characterized by dirt and neglect, a stream +of offensive water constantly percolating through them, in which +little naked children are at play. No wonder that the city is +annually decimated by yellow fever; the surprise is that it does not +prevail there every month in the year. The boys and girls of the lower +classes, white and black, are not thought to require clothing until +they are about nine years of age. A few negresses were observed +sitting on the ground, at the corners of the streets, beside their +baskets containing sweet cakes, mouldy biscuits, bananas, and +grape-fruit, the uninviting appearance of which seemed to indicate +that they were in the last stage of collapse. Was it possible any one +could eat such stuff? As we passed and repassed these patient waiters, +certainly no purchasers appeared. How the forty-five thousand +inhabitants manage to achieve a living it would be difficult to +imagine, for the town seemed to be as dead and void of all activity as +Cordova, in far-off Spain, the sleepiest city in all Europe. Santiago +has not a single bookstore within its limits. No other place in +Christendom, with so numerous a population, could exist, outside of +Spain, without some literary resort. There are here three or four +spacious two-story club-houses, with some pretension to neatness and +social accommodations; but then no Cuban town of any size would be +complete without these anti-domestic institutions, where the male +population may congregate for evening entertainment. The interior +arrangements of these club-houses were entirely exposed to view, as we +passed by the iron-grated windows, devoid of curtains, blinds, or +screens of any sort, and extending from ceiling to floor. + +Santiago dates back to the year of our Lord 1514, making it the oldest +city in the New World, next to San Domingo, and it will be remembered +as the place whence Cortez sailed, in 1519, to invade Mexico. Here +also has been the seat of modern rebellion against the arbitrary and +bitterly oppressive rule of the home government. The city is situated +six hundred miles southeast of Havana, and, after Matanzas, comes next +to it in commercial importance, its exports reaching the handsome +annual aggregate of eight millions of dollars. It is the terminus of +two lines of railways, which pass through the sugar districts, and +afford transportation for this great staple. Three leagues inland, +among the mountains, are situated the famous Cobre copper mines, said +to be of superior richness, and whence, in the days of their active +working, four million dollars' worth of the ore has been exported in +one year. This was the amount shipped in 1841, and so late as 1867 six +thousand tons were exported in ten months. Not content with realizing +a very large income from the mines by way of taxes upon the product, +the Spanish government increased these excise charges to such an +extent as to absorb the entire profits of the works and kill the +enterprise, so that the rich ores of Cobre now rest undisturbed in the +earth. It seems there is an Indian village near the copper mines, +whose people are represented to be the only living descendants of the +aborigines,--the Caribs whom Columbus found here on first landing. +Careful inquiry, however, led us seriously to doubt the authenticity +of the story. Probably this people are peculiar in their language, and +isolation may have caused them to differ in some respects from the +inhabitants of the valley and plains, but four centuries must have +destroyed every trace of the early inhabitants of Cuba. Having been +from the very outset enslaved and brutally treated by the Spaniards, +it is believed that as early as the year of our Lord 1700 they had +utterly disappeared, and some historians say no trace even was to be +found of the native race one century after the settlement of the +island by Europeans. + +The head of the Church of Rome in Cuba is located here, it being an +archbishop's see; and the elaborate ceremonials which occasionally +take place attract people from the most distant cities of the island. +We chanced to be present when the bishop was passing into the +cathedral, clothed in full canonicals and accompanied by church +dignitaries bearing a canopy above his head. Observing our little +party as strangers, though in the midst of a stately ceremony, the +bishop graciously made us a sign of recognition. The cathedral of +Santiago is the largest in Cuba, but extremely simple in its interior +arrangements; and so, indeed, are all the churches on the island. As +to the exterior, the facade resembles the cathedral of Havana, being +of the same porous stone, which always presents a crumbled and mottled +surface. The inside decorations are childish and fanciful, consisting +mostly of artificial flowers of colored paper, crudely formed by +inexperienced hands into stars, wreaths, and crosses. One innovation +was noticed in this church: a saint on the right of the altar was +mounted upon a wooden horse, with spear in rest a la militaire, +forming a most incongruous figure. In the church of Matanzas, visited +a week or two later, the effigy of our Saviour was observed to be half +dressed in female attire, a glaring absurdity which the author has +once before seen in the Spanish convent-church of Burgos. In the +Matanzas church alluded to, boys and girls of nine and ten years were +seen at the confessional. Could absurdity be carried to a greater +height? These with negro women form nearly all the audiences to be met +with in the Cuban churches, unless upon festal occasions. The men +manifest their indifference by their absence, and white women are +scarcely represented. Besides the cathedral, Santiago has three or +four other old churches, small and dilapidated, within whose sombre +walls one seems to have stepped back into the fifteenth century. Upon +strolling accidentally into one of these we felt a chill suffuse the +whole system, like that realized on descending into a dark, undrained +cellar. + +The multiplicity and gaudiness of the drinking-saloons and bar-rooms +were particularly noticeable in passing along the principal streets, +and all were doing a thriving business, judging from appearances. The +Cubans drink lightly, but they drink often, and are especially +addicted to gin, which is dealt out to them at an extraordinarily low +price. It appears that people can consume a much larger quantity of +spirituous liquors here without becoming intoxicated than they can do +at the North. It is very rare to see a person overcome by this +indulgence in Cuba, and yet, as was afterwards observed in Cienfuegos, +Matanzas, and Havana, the common people begin the day with a very +liberal dram, and follow it up with frequent libations until +bed-time,--tippling at every convenient opportunity. A few of the +better class of private houses were constructed with courts in the +centre, where flowers and tropical fruits were growing luxuriantly. +These dwellings were confined to no special quarter of the town, but +were as often found next to a commercial warehouse or a negro shanty +as elsewhere. The dogs, horses, and Chinese coolies were all in +wretched condition. One might count the ribs of the first two a long +way off, while the latter were ragged, lame, half-starved, and many +of them blind. Animals are the recipients of the severest sort of +usage both in Cuba and Spain. Few vehicles were to be seen, as +merchandise is mostly transported on the backs of mules and ponies, +and these animals are seldom shod. + +The town is lighted with gas, or rather it was so illuminated a few +weeks since; but it was quietly whispered about that the corporation +had failed to pay for this service last year, and that the monopoly +itself was on the verge of bankruptcy, like nearly everything else of +a business character in Cuba. The gaslights certainly appeared pale +and sickly enough, as though only half confirmed in the purpose of +giving any light at all, and were prematurely extinguished in many of +the streets. In the shops, whose fronts were all open, like those of +Canton and Yokohama, the clerks were to be seen in their shirt +sleeves, guiltless of vests or collars, coquetting over calicoes and +gaudy-colored merinos with mulatto girls decked in cheap jewelry, and +with negresses wearing enormous hoop-earrings. At the approach of +evening the bar-rooms and saloons, with a liberal display of +looking-glasses, bottles of colored liquors, gin, and glitter, were +dazzling to behold. The marble tables were crowded with domino and +card players, each sipping at intervals his favorite tipple. The +sidewalks are so narrow that the pedestrian naturally seeks the middle +of the street as a pathway, and the half a dozen victorias and four +volantes which form the means of transportation in Santiago, and which +are constantly wandering about in search of a job, manage to meet or +to overtake one perpetually; causing first a right oblique, then a +left oblique, movement, with such regularity as to amount to an +endless zig-zag. We did not exactly appreciate the humor of this +annoyance, but perhaps the drivers did. After climbing and descending +these narrow, dirty streets by daylight and by gaslight, and watching +the local characteristics for a few hours, one is only too happy to +take a boat back to the ship, and leave all behind. + +A desire for a cold bath and a good swim is natural in this climate +after sunset, but beware of indulging this inclination in the waters +of Santiago. Under that smooth, inviting surface, glistening beneath +the rays of a full moon, lurk myriads of sharks. They are large, +hungry, man-eating creatures, the tigers of the ocean, and the dread +of all local boatmen here. To fall overboard in these waters, however +good a swimmer one may be, is simply to be devoured. At Singapore, +Sumatra, or Batavia, a Malay will for a consideration dive into the +waters of the Malacca Straits, armed with a long, sharp knife, boldly +attack a shark, and rip open his bowels at the moment when he turns on +his side to give the deadly bite. But on that coast this dreaded fish +appears singly; it is rare to see two of them together; while Santiago +harbor seems to swarm with them, the dark dorsal fin of the +threatening creatures just parting the surface of the sea, and +betraying their presence. Lying at anchor between our ship and the +shore was a trig Spanish corvette,--an American-built vessel, by the +way, though belonging to the navy of Spain. It was curious at times to +watch her crew being drilled in various martial manoeuvres. While an +officer was exercising the men at furling topsails, a few days before +our arrival, a foretopman fell from aloft into the sea. Under +ordinary circumstances and in most waters, the man could easily have +been saved, but not so in this instance. He did not even rise to the +surface. A struggle for portions of his body between half a dozen +ravenous sharks was observed alongside the corvette, and all was +quickly over. The foretopman had been torn limb from limb and +instantly devoured. + +The over-stimulated brain felt no inclination for sleep on this first +night in the harbor, the situation was so novel, and the night itself +one to suggest poetic thoughts. The moon was creeping slowly across +the blue vault, like a great phantom mingling with the lambent purity +of the stars. We sat silently watching the heavens, the water, and the +shore; saw the lights go out one after another among the clustering +dwellings, and the street gas-burners shut off here and there, until +by and by the drowsy town was wrapped in almost perfect darkness. Only +the ripple of the sea alongside the ship broke the silence, or the +sudden splash of some large fish, leaping out of and falling back into +the water. It seemed as though no sky was ever before of such +marvelous blue depth, no water so full of mystery, no shore so clad in +magic verdure, and no night ever of such resplendent clearness. The +landing-steps and grating had been rigged out from a broad porthole on +the spar deck, where a quartermaster was awaiting the return of the +purser and a party of gentlemen who were making late, or rather early, +hours on shore; for it was nearly two o'clock in the morning, and the +weary seaman, who had sat down at his post on the grating, was snoring +like a wheezy trombone. The measured tread fore and aft of the second +officer, who kept the anchor watch, was the only evidence of +wakefulness that disturbed our lonely mood. A similar night scene was +vividly called to mind as experienced in Typhoon Bay, below Hong Kong, +a few years since. + +In the harbor, next morning, a sunken wreck was pointed out to us, +which was partially visible at low tide, not far from the shore. Only +the ribs and stanchions are still held together by the stout keel +timbers and lower sheathing. This wreck has lain there unheeded for +years, yet what a story these old timbers might tell, had they only a +tongue with which to give voice to their experience!--literally the +experience of ages. We refer to the remains of the old St. Paul, one +of the ships of the great Spanish Armada that Philip II. sent to +England in 1588, being one of the very few of that famous flotilla +that escaped destruction at the time. What a historical memento is the +old wreck! After a checkered career, in which this ancient craft had +breasted the waves of innumerable seas and withstood the storms of +nearly three centuries, she was burned to the water's edge here in the +harbor of Santiago a few years since, and sunk, where her remains now +lie, covered with slime and barnacles,--a striking emblem of the +nation whose flag she once proudly bore. During the last years of her +career afloat she was used for transporting troops from Europe, and as +a Spanish guard-ship in these seas by the local government. It is +doubtful if it is generally known that this relic of the Spanish +Armada is in existence. Curio-hunters, once put upon the scent, will +probably soon reduce these ancient timbers to chips, and a crop of +canes and snuff-boxes, more or less hideous and more or less +counterfeit, will ensue. + +Here we got our first experience of the present currency,--the +valueless circulating medium of Cuba. When one has occasion to visit +the island it is best to take American funds, either in bank-bills or +gold, sufficient to meet all ordinary expenses. Our bank-bills and our +gold are both at a premium. This will also save all necessity for +drawing on home through any local bankers, who have a way of charging +for the accommodation quite after the style of everything Spanish. The +hotel-keepers will require their pay on the basis of Spanish gold, but +will cheerfully allow a premium of six per cent. on American gold or +American bank-bills. As to the banks in Cuba, all are shaky, so to +speak; several have lately failed, and the others might as well do so. +It is not long since the president of the Havana Savings Bank placed a +pistol at his temple and blew his brains out. Mercantile credit may be +said to be dead, and business nearly at a standstill. Commercial +honesty is hardly to be expected from a bankrupt community, where the +people seem only to be engaged in the sale and purchase of lottery +tickets, a habit participated in by all classes. + +What little gold and silver coin there is found in circulation is +mutilated; every piece of money, large and small, has been subjected +to the ingenious punch, and thus has lost a portion of its intrinsic +value. American gold and silver, not having been thus clipped, justly +commands a six per cent. premium. + +The circulating medium upon the island is paper scrip, precisely +similar to that used in this country before the resumption of specie +payment. This scrip is dirty beyond endurance, and one absolutely +hesitates to take it in making change. + +When our currency became soiled and torn we could exchange it for new, +but there is no such facility in Cuba. One dollar of our money will +purchase $2.45 of this scrip. It passes current, and really seems to +answer the necessities of trade, but even the Cubans are not deceived +by it. They know that it is really worthless, being based upon +nothing, and issued indiscriminately by a bankrupt government. The +paper-mill grinds it out in five, ten, twenty, and fifty cent pieces +as fast as it can be put into circulation, while no one knows how much +has been issued. But one thing is known; namely, that every authorized +issue of a given sum has been enormously exceeded in amount. + +Within about five years, or less, an issue of bank-bills and of this +small currency was entrusted to an establishment in the United States, +when fourteen millions of dollars were printed in _addition_ to the +amount authorized! All were duly receipted for and signed by corrupt +Spanish officials, who coolly divided these millions among themselves! +The Captain-General of Cuba during whose administration this financial +stroke was accomplished came to the island a poor man, and returned to +Spain in two years possessed of three million dollars! + +There is no more beautiful or safe harbor in the world than that of +Santiago de Cuba, commercially speaking, as it is completely +land-locked and protected on all sides from storms; but for the same +reason it is as close and hot an anchorage as can be found in the +tropics. An intelligent resident gave us 80 deg. Fahrenheit as the average +temperature of the year, though the thermometer showed a more +ambitious figure during our brief stay. There are but two seasons, +the wet and the dry, the latter extending from September to May. The +city might have an excellent water supply if there were sufficient +enterprise among the citizens to cause it to be conducted by pipes +from the springs in the neighboring hills. It is now wretchedly +deficient in this respect, causing both suffering and ill health in a +climate especially demanding this prime necessity of life. + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + Doubling Cape Cruz. -- Trinidad. -- Cienfuegos. -- The Plaza. + -- Beggars. -- Visit to a Sugar Plantation. -- Something + about Sugar. -- An Original Character. -- A Tropical Fruit + Garden. -- Cuban Hospitality. -- The Banana. -- Lottery + Tickets. -- Chinese Coolies. -- Blindness in Cuba. -- Birds + and Poultry. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Negro Slavery, To-Day. -- + Spanish Slaveholders. -- A Slave Mutiny. -- A Pleasant + Journey across the Island. -- Pictures of the Interior. -- + Scenery about Matanzas. -- The Tropics and the North + contrasted. + + +To reach Cienfuegos, our next objective point, one takes water +conveyance, the common roads in this district being, if possible, a +degree worse than elsewhere. It is therefore necessary to double Cape +Cruz, and perform a coasting voyage along the southern shore of the +island of about four hundred miles. This is really delightful sailing +in any but the hurricane months; that is, between the middle of August +and the middle of October. It would seem that this should be quite a +commercial thoroughfare, but it is surprising how seldom a +sailing-vessel is seen on the voyage, and it is still more rare to +meet a steamship. Our passage along the coast was delightful: the +undulating hills, vales, and plains seemed to be quietly gliding past +us of their own volition; the tremor of the ship did not suggest +motion of the hull, but a sense of delight at the moving panorama so +clearly depicted. No extensive range of waters in either hemisphere is +so proverbially smooth as the Caribbean Sea, during eight months of +the year, but a stout hull and good seamanship are demanded during the +remaining four, especially if coming from the northward over the +Bahama Banks and through the Windward Passage, as described in these +chapters. + +The city of Trinidad, perched upon a hillside, is passed at the +distance of a few miles, being pleasantly situated more than a league +from the coast. The town of Casilda is its commercial port. This +arrangement was adopted in the early days as a partial protection +against the frequent inroads of the buccaneers, who ceased to be +formidable when separated from their ships. Trinidad was once the +centre of the prosperous coffee trade of Cuba, but is now, and has +been for many years, commercially wrecked. It is very beautifully +located, with Mount Vijia for its background, in what is declared to +be the healthiest district upon the island. But it is an ancient city, +comparatively deserted, its date being nearly contemporary with that +of Santiago. Cienfuegos, its successful business rival, is on the +contrary quite modern, exhibiting many features of thrift and +activity, and is counted the third commercial city of Cuba. Like +Cardenas, it is called an American capital. It has some twenty-five +thousand inhabitants, a large proportion of whom speak English, nine +tenths of its commerce being with the United States. In this immediate +neighborhood Columbus, on his second voyage, saw with astonishment the +mysterious king who spoke to his subjects only by signs, and that +group of men who wore long white tunics like the monks of mercy, while +the rest of the people were entirely naked. The town is low and level, +occupying a broad plane. The streets are of fair width, crossing each +other at right angles, and are kept neat and clean. The harbor is an +excellent and spacious one, admitting of vessels being moored at the +wharves, a commercial convenience unknown at Santiago, Matanzas, or +Havana. The navies of all the world might rendezvous here and not +crowd each other. Three rivers, the Canudo, Saludo, and Danuyi, empty +into the bay, and each is navigable for a considerable distance +inland, a matter of great importance in a country so devoid of good +roads. The parti-colored houses are of the usual Cuban type, mostly of +one story, built with a patio or open courtyard in the centre, well +filled with flowering plants, among which were observed the attractive +coral-tree, which resembles a baby palm, and the universal banana. + +The Plaza of Cienfuegos forms a large, well-arranged square, where an +out-door military concert is given twice a week, a universal practice +in all Cuban cities. It is laid out with excellent taste, its broad +paths nicely paved, and the whole lighted at night with numerous +ornamental gas-lamps. The vegetation is both attractive and +characteristic, consisting of palms, laurels, and flowering shrubs, +mingled with which are some exotics from the North, which droop with a +homesick aspect. Plants, like human beings, will pine for their native +atmosphere. If it be more rigorous and less genial at the North, still +there is a bracing, tonic effect, imparting life and strength, which +is wanting in the low latitudes. On one side of this fine square is +the government house and barracks, opposite to which is an open-air +theatre, and in front is the cathedral with any number of discordant +bells. The little English sparrow seems to be ubiquitous, and as +pugnacious here as on Boston Common, or the Central Park of New York. +Boyish games are very similar the world over: young Cuba was playing +marbles after the orthodox fashion, knuckle-down. It was very pitiful +to behold the army of beggars in so small a city, but begging is +synonymous with the Spanish name, both in her European and colonial +possessions. Here the maimed, halt, and blind meet one at every turn. +Saturday is the harvest day for beggars in the Cuban cities, on which +occasion they go about by scores from door to door, carrying a large +canvas bag. Each family and shop is supplied with a quantity of small +rolls of bread, specially baked for the purpose, and one of which is +nearly always given to the applicant on that day, so the mendicant's +bag becomes full of rolls. These, mixed with vegetables, bits of fish, +and sometimes meat and bones when they can be procured, are boiled +into a soup, thus keeping soul and body together in the poor creatures +during the week. + +Cienfuegos is situated in the midst of a sugar-producing district, +where soil and climate are both favorable, and over twenty large +plantations are to be seen within a radius of two or three leagues. +The export from them, as we were informed by the courteous editor of +"La Opinion," a local paper, aggregates thirty thousand hogsheads +annually. The visitor should not fail to make an excursion to some +representative plantation, where it is impossible not to be much +interested and practically informed. One of these sugar estates, +situated less than two leagues from the town, was found to be +furnished with a complete outfit of the most modern machinery, which +had cost the proprietor a quarter of a million dollars. It was working +with the usual favorable results, though at the present price of sugar +no profit can accrue to the planter. The plantation presented a busy +scene. During the grinding season the machinery is run night and day, +but is obliged to lie idle for eight months out of the year. + +In the uncultivated fields through which we passed when driving out to +the sugar estate, the prickly pear grew close to the ground in great +luxuriance, as it is seen on our Western prairies. Its thick leaves, +so green as to be dense with color, impart the effect of greensward at +a short distance. On close inspection it was seen to be the star +cactus, which like the Northern thistle kills all other vegetation +within its reach. Here and there the wild ipecacuanha with its bright +red blossom was observed, but the fields, except those devoted to the +cane, were very barren near Cienfuegos. + +Sugar-cane is cultivated like Indian corn, which it also resembles in +appearance. It is first planted in rows, not in hills, and must be +hoed and weeded until it gets high enough to shade its roots. Then it +may be left to itself until it reaches maturity. This refers to the +first laying out of a plantation, which will afterwards continue +fruitful for years by very simple processes of renewal. When +thoroughly ripe the cane is of a light golden yellow, streaked here +and there with red. The top is dark green, with long narrow leaves +depending,--very much like those of the corn stalk,--from the centre +of which shoots upwards a silvery stem a couple of feet in height, and +from its tip grows a white fringed plume, of a delicate lilac hue. The +effect of a large field at its maturity, lying under a torrid sun and +gently yielding to the breeze, is very fine, a picture to live in the +memory ever after. In the competition between the products of +beet-root sugar and that from sugar-cane, the former controls the +market, because it can be produced at a cheaper rate, besides which +its production is stimulated by nearly all of the European states +through the means of liberal subsidies both to the farmer and to the +manufacturer. Beet sugar, however, does not possess so high a +percentage of true saccharine matter as does the product of the cane, +the latter seeming to be nature's most direct mode of supplying us +with the article. The Cuban planters have one advantage over all other +sugar-cane producing countries, in the great and inexhaustible +fertility of the soil of the island. For instance: one to two +hogsheads of sugar to the acre is considered a good yield in Jamaica, +but in Cuba three hogsheads is the average. Fertilizing of any sort is +rarely employed in the cane-fields, while in beet farming it is the +principal agent of success. + +Though the modern machinery, as lately adopted on the plantations, is +very expensive, still the result achieved by it is so much superior to +that of the old methods of manufacture that the small planters are +being driven from the market. Slave labor cannot compete with +machinery. The low price of sugar renders economy imperative in all +branches of the business, in order to leave a margin for profit. A +planter informed the author that he should spread all of his molasses +upon the cane-fields this year as a fertilizer, rather than send it to +a distant market and receive only what it cost. He further said that +thousands of acres of sugar-cane would be allowed to rot in the fields +this season, as it would cost more to cut, grind, pack, and send it to +market than could be realized for the manufactured article. Had the +price of sugar remained this year at a figure which would afford the +planters a fair profit, it might have been the means of tiding over +the chasm of bankruptcy which has long stared them in the face, and +upon the brink of which they now stand. But with a more than average +crop, both as to quantity and quality, whether to gather it or not is +a problem. Under these circumstances it is difficult to say what is to +become, financially, of the people of Cuba. Sugar is their great +staple, but all business has been equally depressed upon the island, +under the bane of civil wars, extortionate taxation, and oppressive +rule. + +If you visit Cienfuegos you will take rooms at the Hotel Union, as +being the least objectionable of the two public houses which the city +contains, and there you will make the acquaintance of Jane, who is an +institution in herself. Indeed, she will doubtless board your ship +when it first arrives, so as to enlighten you concerning the +excellences of the Union over its rival establishment, which will also +be sure to be represented. Jane is interpreter and general factotum of +that delectable posada, the Union, and being the only one in the house +who speaks either French or English, she becomes an important factor +in your calculations. Jane's nationality is a pleasing mystery, but +she may be classed as a Portuguese quadroon. Venus did not preside at +her birth, but, by means of the puff-ball and egg-shell powder, she +strives to harmonize her mottled features. Being interpreter, +waitress, hotel-runner, and chambermaid, she is no idler, and fully +earns the quarter eagle you naturally hand her at leave-taking. In +visiting the neighboring sugar plantation Jane acts as your guide, on +which occasion her independence will be sure to challenge admiration. +She salutes slave or master with equal familiarity, conducts you +through each process of the elaborate works, from the engine to the +crushing mill, and so on, until you reach the centrifugal machine, +where the glistening crystals of pure sugar fall into an open +receptacle ready for packing and shipment. She takes you into the +slave-quarters among the pickaninnies, hens, pigs, and pigeons, +looking on blandly and chewing huge pieces of cane while you +distribute the bright ten cent pieces with which you filled your +pocket at starting. If Jane slyly pinches a papoose and causes it to +yell, it is only for fun; she means no harm, though the dusky mite +gets smartly slapped by its mother for misbehaving. The cabin floor of +bare earth is sure to be covered with these little naked, sprawling +objects, like ants. On the way back to town Jane orders the postilion +to drive into the private grounds of a palatial Cuban residence, where +she boldly announces herself and party to the proprietor in good +rolling Spanish. It is the home of Senor N----, a wealthy merchant of +the city. We are received as though we belonged to the royal family. +The hospitable owner speaks English fluently, and answers our thousand +and one questions with tireless courtesy, takes us into his superb +fruit garden (of which more anon), then introduces us to his domestic +quarters, where everything appears refined, faultlessly neat, and +tasteful. If you go to the railroad station, as usual the evening +before departure, in order to secure tickets and get your baggage +labeled,--for the cars start in the morning before daylight,--Jane +will accompany you, riding by your side in the victoria. Excuse her if +she orders the calash thrown back, as she appears bonnetless in a +loud, theatrical costume, trimmed with red and yellow, and carrying a +bouquet in her freckled hands. It is her opportunity, and she looks +triumphantly at the street loungers in passing. If you are charged on +your bill a Delmonico price for a mythical lunch to be taken with you +on the journey to Matanzas, and which Jane has forgotten to put up, +pay without wrangling; it saves time and temper. + +The tropical garden which we visited just outside of Cienfuegos +embraced a remarkable variety of trees, including some thrifty +exotics. Here the mango, with its peach-like foliage, was bending to +the ground with the weight of its ripening fruit; the alligator pear +was marvelously beautiful in its full blossom, suggesting, in form and +color, the passion-flower; the soft delicate foliage of the tamarind +was like our sensitive plant; the banana trees were in full bearing, +the deep green fruit (it is ripened and turns yellow off the tree) +being in clusters of a hundred, more or less, tipped at the same time +by a single, pendent, glutinous bud nearly as large as a pineapple. +The date-palm, so suggestive of the far East, and the only one we had +seen in Cuba, was represented by a choice specimen, imported in its +youth. There was also the star-apple tree, remarkable for its uniform +and graceful shape, full of the green fruit, with here and there a +ripening specimen; so, also, was the favorite zapota, its rusty-coated +fruit hanging in tempting abundance. From low, broad-spreading trees +depended the grape-fruit, as large as an infant's head and yellow as +gold, while the orange, lime, and lemon trees, bearing blossoms, green +and ripe fruit all together, met the eye at every turn, and filled the +garden with fragrance. The cocoanut palm, with its tall, straight +stem and clustering fruit, dominated all the rest. Guava, fig, +custard-apple, and bread-fruit trees, all were in bearing. Our +hospitable host plucked freely of the choicest for the benefit of his +chance visitors. Was there ever such a fruit garden before, or +elsewhere? It told of fertility of soil and deliciousness of climate, +of care, judgment, and liberal expenditure, all of which combined had +turned these half a dozen acres of land into a Gan Eden. Through this +orchard of Hesperides we were accompanied also by the proprietor's two +lovely children, under nine years of age, with such wealth of promise +in their large black eyes and sweet faces as to fix them on our memory +with photographic fidelity. + +Before leaving the garden we returned with our intelligent host once +more to examine his beautiful specimens of the banana, which, with its +sister fruit the plantain, forms so important a staple of food in Cuba +and throughout all tropical regions. It seems that the female banana +tree bears more fruit than the male, but not so large. The average +clusters of the former comprise here about one hundred, but the latter +rarely bears over sixty or seventy distinct specimens of the +cucumber-shaped product. From the centre of its large broad leaves, +which gather at the top, when it has reached the height of twelve or +fifteen feet there springs forth a large purple bud ten inches long, +shaped like a huge acorn, though more pointed. This cone hangs +suspended from a strong stem, upon which a leaf unfolds, displaying a +cluster of young fruit. As soon as these are large enough to support +the heat of the sun and the chill of the rain, this sheltering leaf +drops off, and another unfolds, exposing its little brood of fruit; +and so the process goes on until six or eight rings of young bananas +are started, forming, as we have said, bunches numbering from seventy +to a hundred. The banana is a herbaceous plant, and after fruiting its +top dies; but it annually sprouts up again fresh from the roots. From +the unripe fruit, dried in the sun, a palatable and nutritious flour +is made. + +No matter where one may be, in town or country, in the east or west +end of the island, Santiago or Havana, the lottery-ticket vender is +there. Men, women, and children are employed to peddle the tickets, +cripples especially being pressed into the service in the hope of +exciting the sympathies of strangers and thus creating purchasers. It +may be said to be about the only prosperous business at present going +on in this thoroughly demoralized island. Half the people seem to +think of nothing else, and talk of dreaming that such and such +combinations of numbers will bring good luck. Some will buy only even +numbers, others believe that the odd ones stand the best chance of +winning; in short, all the gambling fancies are brought to bear upon +these lotteries. Enough small prizes are doled out to the purchasers +of tickets, by the cunning management, to keep hope and expectation +ever alive in their hearts, and to coax out of them their last dollar +in further investments. "If," said a native resident of Matanzas to +us, "these lotteries, all of which are presided over by the officials, +are honestly conducted, they are the one honest thing in which this +government is concerned. Venal in everything else, why should they be +conscientious in this gambling game?" No one believes in the integrity +of the government, but, strange to say, the masses have implicit faith +in the lotteries. + +At one corner of our hotel in Cienfuegos, there sat upon the sidewalk +of the street a blind beggar, a Chinese coolie, whose miserable, +poverty-stricken appearance elicited a daily trifle from the habitues +of the house. Early one morning we discovered this representative of +want and misery purchasing a lottery ticket. They are so divided and +subdivided, it appears, as to come even within the means of the street +beggars! Speaking of blindness, the multiplicity of people thus +afflicted, especially among negroes and coolies, led to the +enumeration of those met with in a single day; the result was +seventeen. On inquiry it was found that inflammation of the eyes is as +common here as in Egypt, and that it runs a rapid and fatal +course,--fatal to the sight after having once attacked a victim, +unless it receives prompt, judicious, and scientific treatment. + +The Chinese coolies, who are encountered in all parts of the island, +but more especially in the cities, are almost invariably decrepit, +poverty-stricken mendicants, and very frequently blind. They are such +as have been through their eight years' contract, and have been +brought to their present condition by ill-treatment, insufficient +food, and the troubles incident to the climate. In the majority of +cases these coolies have been cheated out of the trifling amount of +wages promised to them, for there is no law in Cuba to which they can +appeal. There are laws which will afford the negro justice if resorted +to under certain circumstances, but none for the coolies. There are +some few Chinamen who have survived every exigency, and are now +engaged in keeping small stores or fruit stands, cigar making, and +other light employments, their only hope being to gain money enough +to carry them back to their native land, and to have a few dollars +left to support them after getting there. There are no Chinese +laundries in Cuba; John cannot compete with the black women in this +occupation, for they are natural washers and ironers. John is only a +skillful imitator. He proves most successful in the cigarette and +cigar factories, where his deft fingers can turn out a more uniform +and handsome article than the Cubans themselves. Machinery is fast +doing away with hand-made cigarettes. At the famous establishment of +La Honradez, in Havana, which we visited some weeks later, one machine +was seen in operation which produced ten thousand complete cigarettes +each hour, or a million per day! Still this same establishment +employed some fifty Chinese in order to supply its trade with the +hand-made article, for home consumption. The Cubans prefer to unroll +and readjust a cigarette before lighting it. This cannot be done with +the machine-made article, which completes its product by a pasting +process. The three machines (an American patent) at the Honradez +factory turn out three millions of cigarettes per day, and this is in +addition to those which are hand-made by the Chinese. + +The landlord of the Hotel Union, at Cienfuegos, will give you plenty +of fruit and cheap Cataline wine, but the meat which is served is poor +and consists mostly of birds. Any other which may be set before you +will hardly be found to be a success, but then one does not crave much +substantial food in this climate. There is a small wild pigeon which +forms a considerable source of food in Cuba, and which breeds several +times in a year. They are snared and shot in large numbers for the +table, but do not show any signs of being exterminated. Ducks and +water-fowl generally abound, and are depended upon to eke out the +short supply of what we term butcher's meat. Three quarters of the +people never partake of other meat than pigeons, poultry, and wild +ducks. Eggs are little used as food, being reserved for hatching +purposes. All families in the country and many in the cities make a +business of raising poultry, but the product is a bird of small +dimensions, not half the size of our common domestic fowls. They are +very cheap, but they are also very poor. The practice is to keep them +alive until they are required for the table, so that they are killed, +picked, and eaten, all in the same hour, and are in consequence very +tough. As the climate permits of hens hatching every month in the +year, the young are constantly coming forward, and one mother annually +produces several broods; chickens, like tropical fruits, are +perennial. + +Sunday is no more a day of rest in Cienfuegos than it is in other +Roman Catholic countries; indeed, it seemed to be distinguished only +by an increase of revelry, the activity of the billiard saloons, the +noisy persistency of the lottery-ticket venders, the boisterousness of +masquerade processions, and a general public rollicking. The city is +not large enough to support a bull-ring, but cock-pits are to be found +all over the island, and the Sabbath is the chosen day for their +exhibitions. It must be a very small and very poor country town in +Cuba which has not its cock-pit. The inveterate gambling propensities +of the people find vent also at dominoes, cards, checkers, and chess +in the bar-rooms, every marble table being in requisition for the +purpose of the games on Sundays. Having noticed the sparse attendance +at the cathedral, we remarked to Jane that the church was quite +empty, whereupon she replied with a significant leer, "True, Senor, +but the jail is full." More than once an underlying vein of sarcasm +was observed in the very pertinent remarks of which Jane was so +happily delivered. + +There are comparatively few slaves to be found on the plantations or +elsewhere in the vicinity of Cienfuegos: in fact, slavery is rapidly +disappearing from the island. "Slave labor is more costly than any +other, all things considered," said a sugar planter to us. "I do not +own one to-day, but I have owned and worked six hundred at a time," he +added. "We pay no tax on the laborers we hire, but on slaves we pay a +heavy head-tax annually." An edict has been promulgated by the home +government, which went into force last year, and which frees one slave +in every four annually, so that on January 1, 1888, all will have +become free. In the mean time the commercial value of slaves has so +decreased in view of their near emancipation that they are not +appraised on an average at over fifty or sixty dollars each. The law +has for a period of many years provided that any slave who pays to his +master his appraised value shall at once receive his free papers. Many +purchase their liberty under this law, and then hire themselves to the +same master or to some other, as they may choose,--at low wages, to be +sure, but including food and shelter. Slaves have always been entitled +by law in Cuba to hold individual property independent of their +masters, and there are few smart ones who have not accumulated more or +less pecuniary means during their servitude. They have had no expenses +to meet in the way of supporting themselves. That has devolved upon +their owners, so that whatever money they have realized by the several +ways open to them has been clear profit. Many slaves have anticipated +the period of their legal release from servitude, and more will do so +during the present year. We also heard of planters who, realizing the +inevitable, have manumitted the few slaves whom they still held in +bondage, and hiring them at merely nominal wages, believed they saved +money by the operation. + +It will be seen, therefore, that slavery as an institution here is +virtually at an end. Low wages will prevail, and this is necessary to +enable the planters to compete with the beet sugar producers of +Europe. In truth, it is a question how long they will be able to do so +at any rate of wages. The modern machinery being so generally adopted +by the sugar-cane planters, while remarkably successful, both, as to +the quality and the quantity of the juice it expresses from the cane, +not only is expensive in first cost, but it requires more intelligent +laborers than were found serviceable with the old process. To supply +the places of the constantly diminishing slaves, emigrants, as they +were called, have heretofore been introduced from the Canary Islands; +men willing to contract for a brief period of years, say eight or ten, +as laborers, and at moderate wages. These people have proved to be +good plantation hands, though not so well able to bear the great heat +of the sun as were the negroes; otherwise they were superior to them, +and better in all respects than the Chinese coolies, who as workers on +the plantations have proved to be utter failures. The mortality among +these Mongolians, as we learned from good authority, had reached as +high as sixty-seven per cent, within eight years of their date of +landing in Cuba, that being also the period of their term of contract. +None have been introduced into the island for several years. This +coolie importation, like the slave-trade with Africa, was a fraud and +an outrage upon humanity, and never paid any one, even in a mercenary +point of view, except the shipowners who brought the deceived natives +from the coast of China. Slavery in Cuba and slavery in our country +were always quite a different thing, and strange to say the laws of +the Spanish government were far more favorable and humane towards the +victims of enforced labor than were those established in our Southern +States. When the American negro ceased to be a slave, he ceased to +cultivate the soil for his master only to cultivate it for himself. +Not so in the tropics. The Cuban negro, in the first place, is of a +far less intelligent type than the colored people in the States; +secondly, the abundance of natural food productions in the low +latitudes, such as fruit, fish, and vegetables, requires of the negro +only to pluck and to eat; clothing and shelter are scarcely needed, +and virtually cost nothing where one may sleep in the open air without +danger every night in the year; and finally, the negro of the tropics +will not work unless he is compelled to. + +There is a certain class of the Spanish slaveholders who have always +fought against negro emancipation in any form,--fought against +manifest destiny as well as against sound principles, fought indeed +against their own clear interest, so wedded were they to the vile +institution of slavery. Yet to every thinking man on the island, it is +clearly apparent that human slavery in Cuba, as everywhere else, has +proved to be a disturber of the public peace, and has retarded more +than anything, else the material and moral progress of the entire +people. It is but a short time since that the editor of a Havana +newspaper, the "Revista Economica," was imprisoned in Moro Castle, and +without even the pretense of a trial afterwards banished from the +island, because he dared to point out the fact in print that the +freeing of the slaves would prove a mutual benefit to man and master, +besides being a grand act of humanity. Two years since the slaves on a +large plantation near Guines refused to work on a holiday which had +always heretofore been granted to them; whereupon the soldiery were +called in to suppress what was called a mutiny of the blacks, +resulting in nine negroes being shot dead, and many others put in +chains to be scourged at leisure. Doomed as we have shown slavery to +be, still it dies hard in Cuba. + +In the vicinity of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Trinidad, in the mountain +regions of the eastern district, there are many lawless +people,--banditti, in fact, who make war for plunder both upon native +and foreign travelers, even resorting in some cases to holding +prisoners for ransoms. Several aggravating instances of the latter +character came to our knowledge while we were on the spot. Since these +notes were commenced five of these robbers have been captured, +including the leader of the band to which they belonged, a notorious +outlaw named Clemente Martinez. They were taken by means of a +stratagem, whereby they were decoyed into an ambush, surrounded, and +captured red-handed, as they fought furiously, knowing that they had +no mercy to expect at the hands of the soldiers. It was the civil +guard at Rancho Veloz who made this successful raid into the hills, +and every one of the prisoners was summarily shot. Such, off-hand +punishment is dangerous, but in this instance it was no more prompt +than just. It is necessary, therefore, to carry arms for self-defense +upon the roads in some parts of the island, and even the countrymen +wear swords when bringing produce to market. Residents having occasion +to go any distance inland take a well-armed guard with them, to +prevent being molested by the desperate refugees who lurk in the hill +country. Undoubtedly many of these lawless bands are composed of +former revolutionists, who are driven to extremes by want of food and +the necessities of life. + +Our journey was continued from Cienfuegos to Havana, by way of +Matanzas, crossing the island nearly at right angles. The traveler +plunges at once by this route into the midst of luxuriant tropical +nature, where the vegetation is seen to special advantage, +characterized by a great variety of cacti and parasitic growth, +flowering trees and ever graceful palms, besides occasional ceibas of +immense size. Though the landscape, somehow, was sad and melancholy, +it gave rise to bright and interesting thoughts in the observer: +doubtless the landscape, like humanity, has its moods. Vegetation, +unlike mankind, seems here never to grow old, never to falter; crop +succeeds crop, harvest follows harvest; nature is inexhaustible,--it +is an endless cycle of abundance. Miles upon miles of the bright, +golden-green sugar-cane lie in all directions, among which, here and +there, is seen the little cluster of low buildings constituting the +negroes' quarters attached to each plantation, and near by is the tall +white chimney of the sugar-mill, emitting its thick volume of +wreathing smoke, like the funnel of a steamboat. A little on one side +stands the planter's house, low and white, surrounded by beautiful +shade trees and clustering groups of flowers. Scores of dusky Africans +give life to the scene, and the sturdy overseer, mounted on his little +Cuban pony, dashes back and forth to keep all hands advantageously at +work. One large gang is busy cutting the tall cane with sharp, +sword-like knives; some are loading the stalks upon ox-carts; some are +driving loads to the mill; some feeding the cane between the great +steel crushers, beneath which pours forth a ceaseless jelly-like +stream, to be conducted by iron pipes to the boilers; men, women, and +children are spreading the crushed refuse to dry in the sun, after +which it will be used for fuel. Coopers are heading up hogsheads full +of the manufactured article, and others are rolling up empty ones to +be filled. + +Some years ago, when the author first visited Cuba, the overseer was +never seen without his long, cutting whip, as well as his sword and +pistols. The latter he wears to-day, but the whip is unseen. The fact +is, the labor on the plantations is now so nearly free labor that +there is little if any downright cruelty exercised as of yore. Or, +rather, we will qualify the remark by saying that there has been a +vast improvement in this respect on the side of humanity. The shadow +of the picture lies in the past. One could not but recall in +imagination the horrors which so long characterized these plantations. +The bloodthirsty spirit of the Spanish slaveholders had free scope +here for centuries, during which time the invaders sacrificed the +entire aboriginal race; and since then millions of Africans have been +slowly murdered by overwork, insufficient food, and the lash, simply +to fill the pockets of their rapacious masters with gold. Few native +Cubans are sugar-planters. These estates are almost universally owned +and carried on by Spaniards from the European peninsula, or other +foreigners, including Englishmen and Americans. + +Occasionally, in the trip across the island, we passed through a crude +but picturesque little hamlet having the unmistakable stamp of +antiquity, with low straggling houses built of rude frames, covered at +side and roof with palm bark and leaves; chimneys there were +none,--none even in the cities,--charcoal only being used for cooking +purposes, and which is performed in the open air. About the door of +the long, rambling posada, a dozen or more horses were seen tied to a +long bar, erected for the purpose, but no wheeled vehicles were there. +The roads are only fit for equestrians, and hardly passable even for +them. At rare intervals one gets a glimpse of the volante, now so +generally discarded in the cities, and which suggested Dr. Holmes's +old chaise, prepared to tumble to pieces in all parts at the same +time. The people, the cabins, and the horses, are all stained with the +red dust of the soil, recalling the Western Indians in their war +paint. This pigment, or colored dirt, penetrates and adheres to +everything, filling the cars and decorating the passengers with a +dingy brick color. It was difficult to realize that these +comparatively indifferent places through which we glided so swiftly +were of importance and the permanent abode of any one. When the cars +stop at the small way-stations, they are instantly invaded by +lottery-ticket sellers, boys with tempting fruit, green cocoanuts, +ripe oranges, and bananas,--all cheap for cash. And here too is the +guava seller, with neatly sealed cans of the favorite preserve. +Indeed, it seems to rain guava jelly in Cuba. Others offer country +cheese, soft and white, with rolls, while in a shanty beside the road +hot coffee and "blue ruin" are dealt out to thirsty souls by a +ponderous mulatto woman. There are always a plenty of the denizens of +the place, in slovenly dresses and slouched hats, hands in pockets, +and puffing cigarettes, who do the heavy standing-round business. +Stray dogs hang about the car-wheels and track to pick up the crumbs +which passengers throw away from their lunch-baskets. Just over the +wild-pineapple hedge close at hand, half a score of naked negro +children hover round the door of a low cabin; the mother, fat and +shining in her one garment, gazes with arms akimbo at the scene of +which she forms a typical part. The engineer imbibes a penny drink of +thin Cataline wine and hastens back to his machine, which has been +taking water from an elevated cistern beside the track, the bell +rings, the whistle sounds, and we are off to repeat the process and +the picture, six or eight leagues further on. Take our advice and +don't attempt to make a meal at one of these stations. The viands are +wretchedly poor, and the price charged is a swindle. + +As we approach Matanzas the scene undergoes a radical change. +Comfortable habitations are multiplied, passable roads appear winding +gracefully about the country, groves and gardens spring into view, +with small and thrifty farms. Superb specimens of the royal palm begin +to appear in abundance, always suggestive of the Corinthian column. +Scattered over the hills and valleys a few fine cattle are seen +cropping the rank verdure. There is no greensward in the tropics, and +hay is never made. The scenery reminds one of Syria and the Nile. + +One sees some vegetable and fruit farms, but sugar raising absorbs +nearly every other interest, the tobacco leaf coming next, now that +coffee is so neglected. The farmer ploughs with the crooked branch of +a tree, having one handle with which to guide the crude machine,--just +such an instrument as is used for the purpose in Egypt to-day, and has +been used there for thousands of years. The cattle are mostly poor, +half-starved creatures,--starved amid a vegetation only too rank and +luxuriant. The dairy receives no attention in Cuba. Butter is seldom +made; the canned article from this country, thin and offensive, is +made to answer the purpose. The climate is too hot to keep butter or +cream without ice, and that is expensive. Human beings, men, women, +and children, look stunted and thin, possessing, however, wonderfully +fine eyes, large, lustrous, and ebony in hue; eyes that alone make +beauty; but the physiognomists have long since learned that eyes of +themselves are no indication of character or moral force. + +The thermometer had stood since early morning at 83 deg., during the long +ride from Cienfuegos. It was hot and dusty. Notwithstanding the +ceaseless novelty of the scene, one became a little fatigued, a little +weary; but as we approached Matanzas, the refreshing air from off the +Gulf of Mexico suddenly came to our relief, full of a bracing tonic, +and rendering all things tolerable. The sight of the broad harbor, +lying with its flickering surface under the afternoon sun, was +beautiful to behold. + +After all, these tropical regions lack the delicious freshness of the +greensward, of new foliage, and the fine fragrance of the rural North; +they need the invigorating sleep of the seasons from which to awake +refreshed and blooming. Where vegetation is growing and decaying at +the same time, there can never be general freshness and greenness; +eternal summer lacks interest; we crave the frost as well as the +sunshine. Compensation follows fast upon the heels of even a Northern +winter. The tropical loveliness of the vegetation in this attractive +land indicates what Cuba should be, but is not. + +Having accompanied the reader across many degrees of latitude, +effecting a landing and reaching the interior of Cuba, let us now pass +to other considerations of this interesting and important island. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + The Great Genoese Pilot. -- Discovery of Cuba. -- Its Various + Names. -- Treatment of the Natives. -- Tobacco! -- Flora of + the Island. -- Strange Idols. -- Antiquity. -- Habits of the + Aborigines. -- Remarkable Speech of an Indian King. -- A + Native Entertainment. -- Paying Tribute. -- Ancient Remains. + -- Wrong Impression of Columbus. -- First Attempt at + Colonization. -- Battle with the Indians. -- First Governor + of Cuba. -- Founding Cities. -- Emigration from Spain. -- + Conquest of Mexico. + + +The island of Cuba was discovered by the great Genoese pilot, on the +28th day of October, 1492. The continent of America was not discovered +until six years later,--in 1498. The name of Columbus flashes a bright +ray over the mental darkness of the period in which he lived, for the +world was then but just awakening from the dull sleep of the Middle +Ages. The discovery of printing heralded the new birth of the republic +of letters, and maritime enterprise received a vigorous impulse. The +shores of the Mediterranean, thoroughly explored and developed, had +endowed the Italian States with extraordinary wealth, and built up a +very respectable mercantile marine. The Portuguese mariners were +venturing farther and farther from the peninsula, and traded with many +distant ports on the extended coast of Africa. + +To the west lay what men supposed to be an illimitable ocean, full of +mystery, peril, and death. A vague conception that islands hitherto +unknown might be met afar off on that strange wilderness of waters was +entertained by some minds, but no one thought of venturing in search +of them. Columbus alone, regarded merely as a brave and intelligent +seaman and pilot, conceived the idea that the earth was spherical, and +that the East Indies, the great El Dorado of the century, might be +reached by circumnavigating the globe. If we picture to ourselves the +mental condition of the age and the state of science, we shall find no +difficulty in conceiving the scorn and incredulity with which the +theory of Columbus was received. We shall not wonder that he was +regarded as a madman or as a fool; we are not surprised to remember +that he encountered repulse upon repulse as he journeyed wearily from +court to court, and pleaded in vain to the sovereigns of Europe for +aid to prosecute his great design. The marvel is that when door after +door was closed against him, when all ears were deaf to his earnest +importunities, when day by day the opposition to his views increased, +when, weary and footsore, he was forced to beg a bit of bread and a +cup of water for his fainting and famishing boy at the door of a +Spanish convent, his reason did not give way, and his great heart did +not break with disappointment. + +But he felt himself to be the instrument of a higher power, and his +soul was then as firm and steadfast as when, launched in his frail +caravel upon the ocean, he pursued day after day and night after +night, amidst a murmuring, discontented, and even mutinous crew, his +westward path across the trackless waters. No doubt he believed +himself to be inspired, or at least specially prompted from above. +This was shown by his tenacious observance of all ceremonies of the +Church, in his unaffected piety, and in that lofty and solemn +enthusiasm which was a characteristic of his whole life. This must +have been the secret in no small degree of the power he exerted so +successfully over his semi-barbarous followers, who were more affected +by awe than by fear. It was the devout and lofty aspect of their +commander which controlled his sailors under circumstances so trying. +We can conceive of his previous sorrows, but what imagination can form +an adequate conception of his hopefulness and gratitude when the +tokens of the neighborhood of land first greeted his senses? What +rapture must have been his when the keel of his barque first grounded +on the shore of San Salvador, and he planted the royal standard in the +soil, as the Viceroy and High-Admiral of Spain in the New World! No +matter what chanced thereafter, a king's favor or a king's +displeasure, royal largesses or royal chains, that moment of noble +exultation was worth a lifetime of trials. + +Columbus first named Cuba "Juana," in honor of Prince John, son of +Ferdinand and Isabella. Subsequently the king named it Fernandina. +This was changed to Santiago, and finally to Ave Maria; but the +aboriginal designation has never been lost, Cuba being its Indian and +only recognized name. The new-comers found the land inhabited by a +most peculiar race, hospitable, inoffensive, timid, fond of the dance +and the rude music of their own people, yet naturally indolent, from +the character of the climate they inhabited. They had some definite +idea of God and heaven, and were governed by patriarchs or kings, +whose word was their only law, and whose age gave them undisputed +precedence. They spoke the dialect of the Lucayos, or Bahamas, from +which islands it is presumed by historians they originated; but it +would seem more reasonable to suppose that both the people of the +Bahamas and of the West India isles came originally from the mainland; +that is, either north or south of the Isthmus of Panama. In numbers +they were vaguely estimated at a million, a calculation the +correctness of which we cannot but doubt. Reliable local authority, +Cubans who have made a study of the early history of the island, +assured the author that the aborigines at the time of Velasquez's +first settlement, say in 1512, could not have exceeded four hundred +thousand. They had but few weapons of offense or defense, and knew not +the use of the bow and arrow. Being a peaceful race and having no wild +animals to contend with, their ingenuity had never been taxed to +invent weapons of warfare against man or beast. The natives were at +once subjected by the new-comers, who reduced them gradually to an +actual state of slavery, and proving hard task-masters, the poor +overworked creatures died by hundreds, until they had nearly +disappeared. The home government then granted permission to import +negroes from the coast of Africa to labor upon the soil and to seek +for gold, which was known to exist in the river courses. Thus +commenced the foreign slave-trade of the West Indies, King Ferdinand +himself sending fifty slaves from Seville to labor in the mines, and +from that time this plague spot upon humanity has festered on the +island. It should be remembered in this connection that previous to +the discoveries of Columbus, negro slavery had been reduced to a +system by the Moors, and thus existed in Spain before the days of the +great Genoese. + +The Spaniards were not content with putting the aborigines to labor +far beyond their power of endurance on the soil where they were born, +but shipped them by hundreds to Spain to be sold in the slave-market +of Seville, the proceeds being turned into the royal treasury. +Columbus himself was the promoter of this outrageous return for the +hospitality he had received at the hands of the natives. Irving +apologetically says he was induced to this course in order to +indemnify the sovereigns of Castile and Leon for the large expense his +expedition had been to them. The fact that the great navigator +originated the slave-trade in the New World cannot be ignored, though +it detracts in no small degree from the glory of his career. + +Although the conquerors have left us but few details respecting these +aborigines, still we know with certainty from the narrative of +Columbus, and those of some of his most intelligent followers, that +they were docile, artless, generous, but inclined to ease; that they +were well-formed, grave, and far from possessing the vivacity of the +natives of the south of Europe. They expressed themselves with a +certain modesty and respect, and were hospitable to the last degree. +Reading between the lines of the records of history, it is manifest +that after their own rules and estimates, their lives were chaste and +proper, though it was admissible for kings to have several wives. +Moreover, though living in a state of nudity, they religiously +observed the decencies of life, and were more outraged by Spanish +lasciviousness than can be clearly expressed. This debasing trait, +together with the greed for gold exhibited by the new-comers, +disabused the minds of the natives as to the celestial origin of their +visitors, a belief which they at first entertained, and which the +Spaniards for mercenary purposes strove to impress upon them. The +labor of this people was limited to the light work necessary to +provide for the prime wants of life, beyond which they knew nothing, +while the bounteous climate of the tropics spared the necessity of +clothing. They preferred hunting and fishing to agriculture; beans and +maize, with the fruits that nature gave them in abundance, rendered +their diet at once simple, nutritious, and entirely adequate to all +their wants. They possessed no quadrupeds of any description, except a +race of voiceless dogs, as they were designated by the early +writers,--why we know not, since they bear no resemblance to the +canine species, but are not very unlike a large rat. This animal is +trapped and eaten by the people on the island to this day, having much +of the flavor and nature of the rabbit. + +The native Cubans were of tawny complexion and beardless, resembling +in many respects the aborigines of North America, and as Columbus +described them in his first communication to his royal patrons, were +"loving, tractable, and peaceable; though entirely naked, their +manners were decorous and praiseworthy." The wonderful fecundity of +the soil, its range of noble mountains, its widespread and +well-watered plains, with its extended coast line and excellent +harbors, all challenged the admiration of the discoverers, so that +Columbus recorded in his journal these words: "It is the most +beautiful island that eyes ever beheld,--full of excellent ports and +profound rivers." And again he says; "It excels all other countries, +as far as the day surpasses the night in brightness and splendor." The +spot where the Spaniards first landed is supposed to be on the east +coast, just west of Nuevitas. "As he approached the island," says +Irving, "he was struck with its magnitude and the grandeur of its +features: its airy mountains, which reminded him of Sicily; its +fertile valleys and long sweeping plains, watered by noble rivers; its +stately forests; its bold promontories and stretching headlands, which +melted away into remotest distance." + +Excursions inland corroborated the favorable impression made by the +country bordering upon the coast. The abundance of yams, Indian corn, +and various fruits, together with the plentifulness of wild cotton, +impressed the explorers most favorably. Their avarice and greed were +also stimulated by the belief that gold was to be found in large +quantities, having received enough to convince them of its actual +presence in the soil, but in the supposition that the precious metal +was to be found in what is termed paying quantities they were +mistaken. + +The Spaniards were not a little surprised to see the natives using +rude pipes, in which they smoked a certain dried leaf with apparent +gratification. Tobacco was indigenous, and in the use of this now +universal narcotic, these simple savages indulged in at least one +luxury. The flora was strongly individualized. The frangipanni, tall +and almost leafless, with thick fleshy shoots, decked with a small +white blossom, was very fragrant and abundant; here also was the wild +passion-flower, in which the Spaniards thought they beheld the emblems +of our Saviour's passion. The golden-hued peta was found beside the +myriad-flowering oleander, while the undergrowth was braided with +cacti and aloes. The poisonous manchineel was observed, a drop of +whose milky juice will burn the flesh like vitriol. Here the invaders +also observed and noted the night-blooming cereus. They were delighted +by fruits of which they knew not the names, such as the custard-apple, +mango, zapota, banana, and others, growing in such rank luxuriance as +to seem miraculous. We can well conceive of the pleasure and surprise +of these adventurous strangers, when first partaking of these new and +delicate products. This was four hundred years ago, and to-day the +same flora and the same luscious food grow there in similar abundance. +Nature in this land of ceaseless summer puts forth strange eagerness, +ever running to fruits, flowers, and fragrance, as if they were +outlets for her exuberant fecundity. + +The inoffensive, unsuspicious natives shared freely everything they +possessed with the invaders. Hospitality was with them an instinct, +fostered by nature all about them; besides which it was a considerable +time before they ceased to believe their guests superior beings +descended from the clouds in their winged vessels. The Indians lived +in villages of two or three hundred houses, built of wood and +palm-leaf, each dwelling containing several families, the whole of one +lineage, and all were governed by caciques or kings, the spirit of the +government being patriarchal. + +We are told by Las Casas, who accompanied Velasquez in all his +expeditions, that "their dances were graceful and their singing +melodious, while with primeval innocence they thought no harm of being +clad only with nature's covering." The description of the gorgeous +hospitality extended to these treacherous invaders is absolutely +touching in the light of our subsequent knowledge. They reared no +sacred temples, nor did they seem to worship idols, and yet some few +antiquities have been preserved which would seem to indicate that the +natives possessed grotesque images, half human and half animal, like +Chinese gods in effect. These were wrought so rudely out of stone as +hardly to convey any fixed idea; vague and imperfect, it is not safe +to define them as idolatrous images. They might have been left here by +a previous race, for, as we are all aware, respectable authorities +hold that this part of the world was originally peopled by +Carthaginians, Israelites, Egyptians, Hindoos, and Africans. Columbus, +in his second voyage to the West Indies, found the stern-post of a +vessel lying on the shore of one of the Leeward isles, which was +strongly presumptive evidence that a European ship had been in these +waters before him. The fact that at this writing, as already +described, there lies in the harbor of Santiago the wreck of the old +St. Paul, which must be over three centuries old, shows how long a +piece of marine architecture may last, submerged in salt water. + +An idol similar to those referred to was dug up in Hayti, and is now +believed to be in the British Museum, drawings of which the author has +seen, and which resemble original religious emblems examined by him in +the caves of Elephanta, at Bombay. This emblem, carved by a people +unacquainted with the use of edge tools, is believed by antiquarians +to afford a degree of light as to the history of worship of the +ancient inhabitants of Hispaniola, and also to form a collateral +support of the conjecture that they sprang from the parent stock of +Asia. According to Las Casas, the native Cubans had a vague tradition +of the formation of the earth, and of all created things; of the +deluge, of the ark, the raven, and the dove. They knew the tradition +of Noah also, according to the same high authority, but for our own +part we do not believe that the aborigines had any knowledge of this +Biblical story. Their priests were fanatics and kept the people in +fear by gross and extravagant means; but as to any formulated system +of religious worship, it may be doubted if the aborigines of Cuba +recognized any at the time of its discovery by Columbus. Unbroken +peace reigned among them, and they turned their hands against no other +people. + +These aborigines exhibited many of the traits universally evinced by +savage races, such as painting their bodies with red earth and +adorning their heads with the feathers of brilliant birds. Much of the +soil is red, almost equal to a pigment, for which purpose it was +employed by the natives. They lived mostly in the open air, weaving +themselves hammocks in which they slept, suspended among the trees. +The cotton which they spun grew wild, but tobacco they planted and +cultivated after a rude fashion. The iguana and the voiceless dog, +already spoken of, were hunted and eaten, the former of the lizard +family, the latter scarcely more than fifteen inches long. They had +domestic birds which they fattened and ate. Their only arms were +lances tipped with sea-shells, and a sort of wooden sword, both of +which were more for display than for use. Fish they caught in nets and +also with hooks made of bones. Their boats, or canoes, were formed of +the dug-out trunks of trees, and some of these canoes, as Columbus +tells us, were sufficiently large to accommodate fifty men. An ancient +writer upon this subject says the oars were well formed and properly +fitted, but were used only with the power of the arms, that is as +paddles, no rowlocks being cut in the boat. The speed attained by +them was remarkable, reaching four leagues an hour when an effort to +that end was made by the occupants. A large canoe, made from the +straight trunk of a mahogany tree, is described as having been five +feet in width and seventy-five feet long. This craft was propelled by +twenty-five oarsmen on each side, a steersman in the stern, and a +lookout at the prow. This was a cacique's barge, in which he made +visits of state along shore and up the rivers. + +History has preserved a remarkable and characteristic speech made by a +venerable cacique, who approached Columbus with great reverence on the +occasion of his second visit to Cuba, and who, after presenting him +with a basket of ripe fruit, said: "Whether you are divinities or +mortal men, we know not. You have come into these countries with a +force, against which, were we inclined to resist, it would be folly. +We are all therefore at your mercy; but if you are men, subject to +mortality like ourselves, you cannot be unapprised that after this +life there is another, wherein a very different portion is allotted to +good and bad men. If therefore you expect to die, and believe, with +us, that every one is to be rewarded in a future state according to +his conduct in the present, you will do no hurt to those who do none +to you." This was duly interpreted to Columbus by a native whom he had +taken to Spain, and who had there acquired the Spanish language. His +name was Didacus, and the date of the speech was July 7, 1492. The +truth of this version is attested by Herrera and others. + +The reception which Bartholomew Columbus, who was appointed Deputy +Governor in the absence of the Admiral, afterwards met with in his +progress through the island to collect tribute from the several +caciques manifested not only kindness and submission, but also +munificence. Having heard of the eagerness of the strangers for gold, +such of them as possessed any brought it forth and freely bestowed it +upon the Spaniards. Those who had not gold brought abundance of +cotton. One cacique in the interior, named Behechio, invited the +Deputy Governor to a state entertainment, on which occasion he was +received with great ceremony. As he approached the king's dwelling, +the royal wives, thirty in number, carrying branches of palm in their +hands, came forth to greet the guest with song and dance. These +matrons were succeeded by a train of virgins. The first wore aprons of +cotton, the last were arrayed only in the innocence of nature, their +hair flowing long and freely about their shoulders and necks. Their +limbs were finely proportioned, and their complexions, though brown, +were smooth, shining, and lovely. The Spaniards were struck with +admiration, believing that they beheld the dryads of the woods and the +nymphs of the ancient fables. The branches which they bore were +delivered to the strangers with low obeisance, indicating entire +submission. When the Spaniards entered the rural palace, amid songs +and the rude music of the people, they found there a plentiful and, +according to the Indian mode of living, a sumptuous banquet prepared +for them. + +After the repast the guests were each conducted to separate lodgings, +and each provided with a cotton hammock. On the next day feasting and +games were resumed; dancing and singing closed each evening for four +consecutive days, and when the Deputy Governor and his people +departed, they were laden with gifts by their generous entertainers, +who also accompanied them far on their way. This episode will perhaps +serve better to give us a just insight into the condition and +character of the aborigines of Cuba at that early period than any +amount of detailed description possibly could. + +These aborigines, according to Las Casas, had no tradition even, +touching their own origin, and when asked about it only shook their +heads and pointed to the sky. Antiquarians have endeavored to draw +some reliable or at least reasonable deductions from the collection of +bones and skeletons found in the mountain caves of the island, but no +conclusion worthy of record has ever been arrived at. Still, upon +these evidences some scientists pin their faith that Cuba was a +portion of the primitive world. Speaking of these caves, there are +many subterranean openings on the island, down which rivers of +considerable size abruptly disappear, not again to be met with, though +it is reasonably presumed that they find their way through the rocks +and soil to the sea-coast. + +During the ten years subsequent to its discovery, Columbus visited and +partially explored the island at four different times, the last being +in 1502, four years previous to his death, which took place at +Valladolid in 1506. It seems singular to us that his investigations +left him still ignorant of the fact that Cuba was an island, and not a +part of a new continent. This conviction remained with him during his +lifetime. It was not until 1511 that the Spaniards commenced to +colonize the island, when Diego Columbus, then Governor of San +Domingo, sent an expedition of three hundred men for the purpose, +under the command of Diego Velasquez, whose landing was disputed by +the natives. A period of ten years had served to open their eyes to +Spanish lust and lore of gold, and from having at first regarded them +as superior beings, entitled to their obedience, they were finally +thus driven to fight them in self-defense. But what could naked +savages, armed only with clubs and spears, accomplish against +Europeans, trained soldiers, furnished with firearms, protected by +plate armor, and accompanied by bloodhounds,--men who had learned the +art of war by fighting successfully with the valiant Moors? The +natives were at once overpowered and hundreds were slaughtered. From +that time forth they became the slaves of their conquerors; a fact +which reconciles us in some degree in the light of poetical justice to +the fact that Amerigo Vespucci, who followed in the footsteps of +others, yet took the honors of discovery so far as to give his name to +the largest quarter of the globe. + +Diego Velasquez, the earliest Governor of the island, appears to have +been an energetic and efficient magistrate, and to have administered +affairs with vigor and intelligence. He did not live, however, in a +period when justice ever erred on the side of mercy, and his harsh and +cruel treatment of the aborigines will always remain a stain upon his +memory. The native population soon dwindled away under the sway of the +Spaniards, who imposed tasks upon them far beyond their physical +powers of endurance. The victims of this hardship had no one to +befriend them at that time, and no one has done them justice in +history. The few glimpses of their character which have come down to +us are of a nature greatly to interest us in this now extinct race. +Their one fault was in trusting the invaders at all. At the outset +they could have swept them from the face of the earth, but, once +permitted to establish themselves, they soon became too powerful to be +driven out of the land. A native chief, whose only crime was that of +taking up arms in defense of the integrity of his little territory, +fell into the hands of Velasquez, and was cruelly burned at the stake, +near what is now the town of Yara, as a punishment for his patriotism. +The words of this unfortunate but brave chief (Hatuey), extorted by +the torments which he suffered, were: "I prefer hell to heaven, if +there are Spaniards in heaven!" + +In point of energetic action and material progress, Velasquez reminds +us of a later Governor-General, the famous Tacon. In a single decade, +Velasquez founded the seven cities of Baracoa, Santiago de Cuba, +Trinidad, Bayamo, Puerto del Principe, St. Spiritus, and, on the south +coast near Batabano, Havana, since removed to its present site. He +caused the mines to be opened and rendered them profitable, introduced +valuable breeds of cattle, instituted agricultural enterprise, and +opened a large trade with San Domingo, Jamaica, and the Spanish +peninsula. Population increased rapidly, thousands of persons +emigrating annually from Europe, tempted by the inviting stories of +the returned explorers. Emigration schemes were approved and fostered +by the home government, and thus a large community was rapidly divided +among the several cities upon the island. Still this new province was +considered mainly in the light of a military depot by the Spanish +throne, in its famous operations at that period in Mexico. The fact +that it was destined to prove the richest jewel in the Castilian +crown, and a mine of wealth to the Spanish treasury, was not dreamed +of at that date in its history. Even the enthusiastic followers of +Cortez, who sought that fabulous El Dorado in the New World, had no +promise for this gem of the Caribbean Sea; but, in spite of every side +issue and all contending interests, the island continued to grow in +numbers and importance, while its native resources were far beyond the +appreciation of the home government. + +Thus Cuba became the headquarters of the Spanish power in the West, +forming the point of departure for those military expeditions which, +though circumscribed in numbers, were yet so formidable in the energy +of the leaders, and in the arms, discipline, courage, fanaticism, and +avarice of their followers, that they were amply adequate to carry out +the vast scheme of conquest for which they were designed. It was hence +that Cortez embarked for the conquest of Mexico; a gigantic +undertaking, a slight glance at which will recall to the mind of the +reader the period of history to which we would direct his attention. + +Landing upon the continent (1518) with a little band scarcely more +than half the complement of a modern regiment, Cortez prepared to +traverse an unknown country, thronged by savage tribes with whose +character, habits, and means of defense he was wholly unacquainted. +This romantic adventure, worthy of the palmiest days of chivalry, was +finally crowned with success, though checkered with various fortunes, +and stained with bloody episodes that prove how the threads of courage +and ferocity are inseparably blended in the woof and warp of Spanish +character. It must be remembered, however, that the spirit of the age +was harsh, relentless, and intolerant, and that if the Aztecs, +idolaters and sacrificers of human victims, found no mercy at the +hands of the fierce Catholics whom Cortez commanded, neither did the +Indians of our own section of the continent fare much better at the +hands of men professing to be disciples of a purer faith, and coming +to these shores, not as warriors, but themselves persecuted fugitives. + +The Spanish generals who invaded Mexico encountered a people who had +attained a far higher point of civilization than their red brethren of +the outlying Caribbean Islands, or those of the northeastern portion +of the continent. Vast pyramids, imposing sculptures, curious arms, +fanciful garments, various kinds of manufactures, the relics of which +strongly interest the student of the past, filled the invaders with +surprise. There was much that was curious and startling in their +mythology, and the capital of the Mexican empire presented a strange +and fascinating spectacle to the eyes of Cortez. The rocky +amphitheatre in the midst of which it was built still remains +unchanged, but the great lake which surrounded it, traversed by +causeways and covered with floating gardens laden with flowers, is +gone. + +The star of the Aztec dynasty set in blood. In vain did the +inhabitants of the conquered city, roused to madness by the cruelty +and extortion of the victors, expel them from their midst. Cortez +refused to flee farther than the shore; the light of his burning +galleys rekindled the desperate valor of his followers, and Mexico +fell, as a few years after did Peru under the perfidy and sword of +Pizarro, thus completing the scheme of conquest, and giving Spain a +colonial empire far more splendid than that of any other power in +Christendom. + +Of the agents in this vast scheme of territorial aggrandizement, we +see Cortez dying in obscurity and Pizarro assassinated in his palace, +while retributive justice has overtaken the monarchy at whose behest +the richest portions of the Western Continent were violently wrested +from their native possessors. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + Baracoa, the First Capital. -- West Indian Buccaneers. -- + Military Despotism. -- A Perpetual State of Siege. -- A + Patriotic Son of Cuba. -- Political Condition of the Island. + -- Education of Cuban Youths. -- Attempts at Revolution. -- + Fate of General Narciso Lopez. -- The Late Civil War and its + Leader. -- Terrible Slaughter of Spanish Troops. -- + Stronghold of the Insurgents. -- Guerrillas. -- Want of + Self-Reliance. -- Spanish Art, Literature, and Conquest. -- + What Spain was. -- What Spain is. -- Rise and Fall of an + Empire. + + +Baracoa lies one hundred miles northeast from Santiago, and was the +capital of the island as first established by Velasquez. Here Leo X. +erected in 1518 the first cathedral in Cuba. The town is situated on +the north coast, near the eastern extremity of the island, having a +small but deep harbor, and a considerable trade in the shipping of +sugar and fruits to this country. The population at present numbers +about six thousand. Five years after the settlement of Baracoa, the +capital was moved to Santiago de Cuba, where it remained until 1589, +when Havana was formally declared to be the capital of the island, its +first Captain-General being Juan de Tejada. The city was captured and +partially destroyed by a French pirate in 1638, and afterwards +suffered a like catastrophe at the hands of the buccaneers of combined +nationality, embracing some disaffected Spaniards. So late as 1760 +Havana was captured and held by the English, under the Duke of +Albemarle, but was restored to Spain, after a brief occupancy, in +1763. The first grand impulse to the material prosperity of the city, +anomalous though it may seem, was given through its capture by the +British. It is true that the victors seized everything by force, but +they also taught the listless people how to repair their losses, and +how to multiply prosperity. The port of Havana, accustomed heretofore +to receive the visits of half a score of European vessels annually, +suddenly became the rendezvous of a thousand ships in the same period +of time, much to the surprise of the inhabitants. Bourbon in nature as +the Spaniards were and still are, they could not but profit by the +brilliant example of their enemies, and from that time forward the +city grew rapidly in commercial importance, and has continued to do +so, notwithstanding the rivalry of Matanzas, Santiago, Cienfuegos, and +other ports, as well as the drawbacks of civil war and business +stagnation. + +These buccaneers of the West Indies, to whom we have so often alluded, +were composed mostly of English, French, and Dutch adventurers, whose +bitter hatred the Spaniards early incurred. They were for a long time +their terror and scourge, being the real masters of the ocean in these +latitudes. They feared no enemy and spared none, while by shocking +acts of needless cruelty they proved themselves fiends in human shape. +Among these rovers there were often found men particularly fitted for +the adventurous career they had adopted, men who combined remarkable +executive ability with a spirit of daring bravery and a total +disregard of all laws, human and divine. By a few such leaders the +bands of freebooters were held in hand, and preserved their +organization for many years; obedience to the word of their chief, +after he was once chosen as such, being the one inviolable law of +their union. The romance of the sea owes its most startling chapters +to the career of these pirates. Sometimes their principal rendezvous +was at the Isle of Pines; at others further north among the Bahamas, +Nassau being one of their favorite resorts. + +In the mean time, under numerous and often changed Captains-General, +the island of Cuba increased in population by free emigration from +Spain, and by the constant importations of slaves from Africa. It may +be said to have been governed by a military despotism from the very +outset to the present time; and nothing short of such an arbitrary +rule could maintain the connection between the island and so exacting +a mother country, more than three thousand miles across the ocean. +Accordingly we find the Captain-General invested with unlimited power. +He is in fact a viceroy appointed by the crown of Spain, and +accountable only to the reigning sovereign for his administration of +the colony. His rule is absolute. He has the power of life and death +in his hands. He can by his arbitrary will send into exile any person +who resides in the island whom he considers inimical to the interests +of the home government. Of the exercise of this power instances are +constantly occurring, as in the case of the editor of the "Revista +Economica," already recorded. He can at will suspend the operation of +the laws and ordinances, can destroy or confiscate property, and in +short, the island may be said to be in a perpetual state of siege. + +Such is the infirmity of human nature that few individuals can be +safely trusted with despotic power; accordingly we find no +Captain-General whose administration will bear the test of rigid +examination. Indeed, the venality of a majority of these officials +has been so gross as to have passed into a proverb. It is not to be +expected that officers from Spain should consult the true interests of +the Cubans; they are not sent hither for that purpose, but merely to +look after the revenue of the crown, and to swell it to the very +uttermost. The office of Governor-General is of course a brilliant +prize, for which there are plenty of aspirants eagerly struggling, +while the means by which a candidate is most likely to succeed in +obtaining the appointment presupposes a character of an inferior +order. This official knows that he cannot count on a long term of +office, and hence he makes no effort to study the interests or gain +the good-will of the people over whom he presides. He has a twofold +object only in view: namely, to keep the revenue well up to the mark, +and to enrich himself as speedily as possible. The princely salary he +receives--fifty thousand dollars per annum, with a palace and +household attendants supplied--is but a portion of the income which, +by a system of peculation, he is enabled to divert to his private +coffers. As a rule, the Captain-General comes out to Cuba a poor man, +and returns a rich one, however brief his term of office. + +Occasionally during the lapse of years a true and patriotic man has +filled this important post, when the remarkable elements of prosperity +contained within the limits of this peerless land were rapidly +developed and advanced. Such an one was Don Luis de las Casas, whose +name is cherished by all patriotic Cubans, as also is that of Don +Francisco de Arrango, an accomplished statesman and a native of +Havana. He was educated in Spain, and designed to follow the law as a +profession. This man, being thoroughly acquainted with the +possibilities of the island and the condition and wants of his +countrymen, succeeded in procuring the amelioration of some of the +most flagrant abuses of the colonial system. In his argument for +reform before the home government, he told them that serious dissent +permeated every class of the community, and was bid in return to +employ a still more stringent system of rule. To this Arrango replied +that force was not remedy, and that to effectually reform the +rebellious they must first reform the laws. His earnest reason carried +conviction, and finally won concession. By his exertions the staple +productions of the island were so much increased that the revenue, in +place of falling short of the expenses of the government as his +enemies had predicted, soon yielded a large surplus. He early raised +his voice against the iniquitous slave trade, and suggested the +introduction of white labor, though he admitted that the immediate and +wholesale abolition of slavery was impracticable. This was the rock on +which he split, as it regarded his influence with the Spaniards in +Cuba, that is, with the planters and rich property holders. Slavery +with them was a sine qua non. Many of them owned a thousand Africans +each, and the institution, as an arbitrary power as well as the means +of wealth, was ever dear to the Spanish heart. Former and subsequent +Captains-General not only secretly encouraged the clandestine +importation of slaves, after issuing an edict prohibiting it, but +profited pecuniarily by the business. It was owing to his exertions +that the duty on coffee, spirits, and cotton was remitted for a period +of ten years, and that machinery for the sugar plantations was allowed +to be imported into Cuba from the United States free of all duty. + +The patriotic services of Arrango were appreciated by the court of +Madrid, although he was at times the inflexible opponent of its +selfish schemes. The Cross of Charles III. showed the esteem in which +he was held by that monarch. With a modesty which did him honor he +declined to accept a title of nobility which was afterwards tendered +to him by his king. This patriotic son of Cuba was at heart a +republican, and declared that the king could make noblemen, but God +only could make gentlemen. In 1813, when, by the adoption of the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba became entitled to representation in the +general Cortes,--a privilege but briefly enjoyed,--he went to Madrid +as a deputy, and there achieved the crowning glory of his useful life: +namely, the opening of the ports of the island to foreign trade. In +1817 he returned to his native land with the rank of Counselor of +State and Financial Intendant of Cuba, also possessing the Grand Cross +of the Order of Isabella. He died in 1837, at the age of seventy-two, +after a long and eminently useful life, bequeathing large sums of +money for various public purposes in his native isle. + +When the invasion of Spain, which took place in 1808, produced the +Constitution of 1812, Cuba was considered entitled, as we have stated, +to enjoy its benefits, and it was so announced by royal statute; but +political revolution at home and a manifest restiveness upon the +island finally led in 1836 to the revoking of this royal statute, +which had never been practically operative, and the old Constitution +was proclaimed. + +Up to this period of time the various political events at home had +disturbed but slightly the tranquillity of this rich province of +Spain. The Cubans, although sensible of the progress of public +intelligence and wealth under the protection of a few enlightened +governors and through the influence of some distinguished and +patriotic individuals, still felt that these advances were slow, +partial, and limited. The most intelligent realized that there was no +regular system; that the public interests were sure to suffer, +confided to officials entrusted with unlimited power. They frequently +saw themselves betrayed by a cupidity which impelled the authorities +to enrich themselves in every possible way at the expense of general +suffering. Added to these sources of discontent was the powerful +influence exerted by the spectacle of the rapidly increasing greatness +of the United States, where a portion of the Cuban youths were wont to +receive their education. No matter in what political faith these +youths had left home, they were sure to return republicans. + +There also were the examples of Mexico and Spanish South America, +which had recently conquered with their blood their emancipation from +monarchy. Liberal ideas were naturally diffused by Cubans who had +traveled either in Europe or North America, there imbibing the spirit +of modern civilization. But with a fatuity and obstinacy which has +always characterized her, the mother country resolved to ignore all +causes of discontent, and their significant influence as manifested by +the people of the island. In place of yielding to the popular current +and introducing a liberal and mild system of government, she drew the +reins yet tighter, curtailing many former privileges. Thus it was that +blind persistence in the fatal principle of despotic domination +relaxed the natural bonds uniting Cuba and the mother country, and +infused gall into the hearts of the governed. Obedience still +continued, but it was the dangerous obedience of terror, not the +secure and instinctive spirit of loyalty. + +This severity on the part of the home government has naturally given +rise to several attempts to cast off the Spanish yoke. The first +occurred in 1823, when Simon Bolivar offered to aid the disaffected +party by throwing an invading force into the island. Another was made +in 1826, and a third in 1828. In 1848 a conspiracy was formed at +Cienfuegos and Trinidad to establish Cuban independence, under the +leadership of General Narciso Lopez; but finding that his plans were +premature, he escaped to this country, and here arranged a descent +upon the island, which he led in person: this was in 1850. General +Lopez, however, was not seconded by the timid natives, though they had +freely pledged themselves to do so, and his expedition, after winning +one decisive battle and several important skirmishes, was at last +overpowered and its leader promptly executed. General Lopez was an +adopted citizen of Cuba, and was married to one of her daughters. He +was executed at the age of fifty-two. + +The Lopez expedition would seem to have been the most serious and best +organized attempt at revolution in Cuba by invasion, though there have +been formidable attempts since. From 1868 to 1876 Cuba may be said to +have been in a state of chronic civil war. This outbreak was led by +Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, an able lawyer and wealthy planter of +Bayamo, in the eastern department of the island. He raised the +standard of independence on his estate, Demajagua, supported at the +outset by less than fifty men. This was in October, 1868, and by the +middle of November he had an organized army of twelve thousand men; +poorly armed, it must be admitted, but united in purpose and of +determined will. That portion of the island contiguous to Santiago, +and between that city and Cienfuegos, was for a long period almost +entirely in possession of the patriot forces. Here many sanguinary +battles were fought with varying fortune, at terrible sacrifice of +life, especially on the part of the government troops, over one +hundred thousand of whom, first and last, are known to have perished +in that district. Spain actually sent one hundred and forty-five +thousand enlisted men to Cuba during the eight years of active +warfare. Of this number those who finally returned to the European +peninsula were but a few hundreds! It was publicly stated in the +Cortes of Madrid that not enough of that immense force ever returned +to fill a single regiment! The climate was far more fatal to these +soldiers than were patriot bullets. The warfare was conducted by the +native Cubans mostly on the guerrilla plan, and was ten times more +destructive to the imported soldiers than to themselves. Discipline +counted for little or nothing in contending with men who fought +single-handed and from ambush, decimating the ranks of an invading +column, who in turn could only fire at random. + +Exhaustion and promised concessions, which were, as usual with the +Spanish government, never fulfilled, finally brought this struggle to +an end; but it cost Spain many millions of dollars and the lives of +over a hundred and fifty thousand men, saying nothing of the +destruction of an enormous amount of property on the island, belonging +to loyal Spaniards. Miles upon miles of thrifty plantations, with all +their buildings and machinery, were laid waste, and remain so to this +day. + +Since 1876 there have been roving bands of insurgents in existence, +causing the authorities more or less serious trouble, leading them at +times to make serious attempts at their entire suppression. But the +mountains and half-inaccessible forests of the eastern department +still serve to secrete many armed and disaffected people, whose +frequent outbreaks are made public by the slow process of oral +information. The press is forbidden to publish any news of this +character. Thus it will be seen that, although the spirit of liberty +may slumber in the island, it is by no means dead, nor is the intense +hatred which exists between the home-born Spaniard and the native +Cuban growing less from year to year. Indeed, the insurrection of +Trinidad and Cienfuegos (1868) still smoulders, and any extreme +political exigency would be liable to cause it to blaze forth with +renewed force. The region where the insurgents have always made their +rendezvous, and which they have virtually held for years, is nearest +to Guantanamo and Santiago. This mountainous district is the resort of +all runaway slaves, escaped criminals, and those designated as +insurgents. These together form at the present time a roving community +of several hundred desperate men. These refugees, divided into small +bands, make predatory raids upon travelers and loyal planters, as we +have described, to keep themselves supplied with the necessities of +life other than those afforded by the prolific hand of Nature. +Occasionally they are organized by some fresh leader, some daring +native, stimulated by a spirit of patriotism, and possessing some +executive ability; then follows a systematic outbreak of just +sufficient importance to harass the government, and to form, perhaps, +an excuse for demanding a fresh regiment of victims from the European +peninsula. Such a guerrilla contest engages the worst passions of the +combatants, and quarter is neither asked nor given when they come face +to face. The bloodthirsty acts of both sides, as related to the author +during his late visit to the spot, are too horrible to record in these +pages. It is not legitimate warfare, but rather wholesale murder, +which characterizes these occasions, and there is no expedient of +destruction not resorted to by both the refugees and the pursuing +soldiers. The nature of the country favors the revolutionists, and +determines their mode of conflict. Thus far, when the irregular bands +have been strong enough to meet these detachments of regulars sent +into their neighborhood to capture them, they have nearly always +beaten them gallantly, and this has served to perpetuate their hopes, +desperate as is a cause which only outlaws, escaped criminals, and +slaves dare to fight for. These people appear to be well supplied with +arms and ammunition, which it is said are smuggled to them from +sympathizers in this country, particularly from Florida. Though their +ranks are supposed to embrace but small numbers, still they form a +nucleus at all times, about which discontented spirits may gather. +Thus it is found necessary to quarter a foreign army of thirty +thousand soldiers upon the people at the present time, while half the +navy of Spain lies anchored in the ports of the island. + +One great drawback and defect in the character of the native Cubans +is a want of self-reliance. The remedy for the outrageous oppression +under which they have so long struggled lies within themselves; "for +they can conquer who believe they can." In the consciousness of +strength is strength, but the Creole republicans have never yet +evinced the necessary degree of true manhood to challenge general +outside sympathy, or to command the respect of other nationalities. +The numerous revolutionary outbreaks upon the island--so frequent in +the last half century as to be chronic--have all been of the most +insignificant character, compared with the importance of the occasion +and the object in view. These efforts have mostly been made from +without, almost entirely unsupported from within the borders of Cuba, +with the exception of that of 1868. It appears incredible that an +intelligent people, within so short a distance of our Southern coast, +constantly visited by the citizens of a free republic, and having the +example of successful revolt set them by the men of the same race, +both in the North and the South, weighed down by oppression almost +without parallel, should never have aimed an effectual blow at their +oppressors. It would seem that the softness of the unrivaled climate +of those skies, beneath which it is luxury only to exist, has unnerved +this people, and that the effeminate spirit of the original +inhabitants had descended in retribution to the posterity of their +conquerors. + +In closing these brief chapters relating to the early history of the +island of Cuba, and in bringing the record up to our own period, some +natural reflections suggest themselves as to the present condition of +the mother country. We follow with more than passing interest the +condition of Spain, whose history is so closely interwoven with our +own. From the close of the fifteenth century our paths have run on in +parallel lines, but while we have gone on increasing in power and +wealth, she has sunk in the scale of decadence with a rapidity no less +surprising than has been the speed of our own progress. At the +commencement of the sixteenth century Spain threatened to become the +mistress of the world, as Rome had been before her. She may be said to +have at that period dominated Europe. In art she was in the very +foremost position: Murillo, Velasquez, Ribera, and other famous +painters were her honored sons. In literature she was also +distinguished: both Cervantes and Lope de Vega contributed to her +greatness and lasting fame. While, in discoverers and conquerors, she +sent forth Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro. The banners of Castile and +Aragon floated alike on the Pacific and the margin of the Indian +Ocean. Her ships sailed in every sea, and brought home freights of +fabulous value from all the regions of the earth. Her manufacturers +produced the richest silks and velvets; her soil yielded corn and +wine; her warriors were adventurous and brave; her soldiers inherited +the gallantry of the followers of Charles V.; her cities were the +splendid abodes of luxury, refinement, and elegance. She was the court +of Europe, the acknowledged leader of chivalry and of grandeur. + +This is the picture of what Spain was at no remote period of time, but +in her instance we have an example showing us that states are no more +exempt than individuals from the mutability of fate. So was it with +Egypt, Babylon, Assyria, and Rome, though in their case we look far +back into the vista of history to recall the change, whereas in the +instance of Spain we are contemporary witnesses. From a first-class +power, how rapidly she has sunk into comparative insignificance! She +has been shorn of her wealthy colonies, one after another, in the East +and in the West, holding with feeble grasp a few inconsiderable +islands only besides this gem of the Antilles, the choicest jewel of +her crown. Extremely poor and deeply indebted, she has managed for +years to extort by means of the most outrageous system of taxation a +large share of her entire revenue from the island of Cuba, her home +population having long since become exhausted by over-burdensome +imposts. Her nobles of to-day are an effeminate, soulless, and +imbecile race, while the common people, with some excellent qualities, +are yet ignorant, cruel, and passionate. The whole country is divided +against itself, the tottering throne being with difficulty upheld. +Even the elements have of late seemed to combine against her, +decimating whole cities of her southern possessions by earthquakes, +and smiting her people with pestilence. + +This simple statement of her present situation is patent to all who +read and observe. It is not an overdrawn picture. In it the moralist +beholds the retributive justice of providence. As Spain in the +plenitude of her power was ambitious, cruel, and perfidious, so has +the measure which she meted out to others been in return accorded to +herself. As with fire and sword she swept the Aztec and the Incas from +Mexico and Peru, so was she at last driven from these genial countries +by their revolted inhabitants. The spoiler has been despoiled, the +victor has been vanquished, and thus has Spain met the just fate +clearly menaced by the Scriptures to those who smite with the sword. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Geographical. -- A Remarkable Weed. -- Turtle-Hunting. -- + Turtle-Steaks in Olden Times. -- The Gulf Stream. -- Deep-Sea + Soundings. -- Mountain Range of Cuba. -- Curious Geological + Facts. -- Subterranean Caverns. -- Wild Animals. -- The + Rivers of the Island. -- Fine Harbors. -- Historic Memories + of the Caribbean Sea. -- Sentinel of the Gulf. -- Importance + of the Position. -- Climate. -- Hints for Invalids. -- + Matanzas. -- Execution of a Patriot. -- Valley of Yumuri; + Caves of Bellamar; Puerto Principe; Cardenas. + + +Having thus briefly glanced at the historical and political story of +Cuba,--whose very name seems bathed in sunshine and fragrance, yet +bedewed with human tears,--let us now consider its peculiarities of +climate, soil, and population, together with its geographical +characteristics. The form of the island is quite irregular, resembling +the blade of a Turkish scimitar slightly curved back, or that of a +long narrow crescent, presenting its convex side to the north. It +stretches away in this shape from east to west, throwing its western +end into a curve, as if to form a barrier to the outlet of the Gulf of +Mexico, and as if at some ancient period it had formed a part of the +American continent; severed on its north side from the Florida +peninsula by the wearing of the Gulf Stream, and from Yucatan, on its +southwestern point, by a current setting into the Gulf. Two broad +channels are thus formed, by either of which the Mexican Gulf is +entered. + +These channels are nearly of the same width, somewhat exceeding a +hundred miles each, the northern passage being a few miles the +broader. The Bahama Banks extend along its northern coast-line about +fifty or sixty miles distant, where commences the group of many small +isles known as the Bahamas, and of which we have already treated. On +her eastern extreme, near Cape Maysi, Cuba is within about fifty miles +of the western shore of Hayti, from which it is separated by the +Windward Passage. The southern shore is washed by the Caribbean Sea, +which is also here and there interspersed with small islands of little +importance. One hundred and fifty miles due south lies the British +island of Jamaica, with a superficial area of over four thousand +square miles. Still further to the eastward, on the other side of +Hayti, lies Porto Rico (like Cuba a Spanish possession), and the two +groups of islands known as the Leeward and Windward isles. These are +of various nationalities, including English, French, and Dutch, thus +completing the entire region familiarly known to us as the West +Indies. + +In approaching the coast from the Windward isles, the observant +traveler will notice the fields of what is called gulf-weed, which +floats upon the surface of the sea. It is a unique genus, found +nowhere except in these tropical waters, and must not be confounded +with the sea-weed encountered by Atlantic steamers off the Banks of +Newfoundland, and about the edges of the Gulf Stream in that region. +This singular and interesting weed propagates itself on the waves, and +there sustains, as on the shore of New Providence, zooephytes and +mollusks which also abound in these latitudes. The poetical theory +relating to this sargasso, and possibly to the animals that cling to +it, is that it marks the site of an Atlantic continent sunk long ages +since, and that, transformed from a rooting to a floating plant, it +wanders round and round as if in search of the rocks upon which it +once grew. The southern shore of Cuba presents much of special +interest to the conchologist in the variety and beauty of the +sea-shells that abound upon its beaches. The water is of an exquisite +color, a brilliant green, very changeable, like liquid opal. Were an +artist truthfully to depict it, he would be called color-mad. Northern +skies are never reflected in waters of such fanciful hues. Some +beautiful specimens of white corals are found here, but they are not a +characteristic of the coast. + +On that portion bordering the Old Bahama Channel, and also opposite +the Isle of Pines, which Columbus named Evangelista,--on this south +shore, large numbers of turtles are taken annually, which produce the +best quality of tortoise-shell. It is strange that the habits of these +creatures down here in the Caribbean Sea should so closely resemble +those of the tiny tortoises described by Thoreau as frequenting Walden +Pond. The female turtle digs the hole in which to deposit her eggs on +the sandy beach, just above the margin of high tide, generally +choosing a moonlight night for the purpose. The hole is often so large +that the turtle will require an hour of industrious labor to dig it to +her entire satisfaction. Observing the strictest silence, the +turtle-hunter steals upon the animal, and with a single motion turns +it upon its back, rendering it utterly helpless, after which it can be +secured at will. Thousands are annually caught in this manner. + +It is a curious fact worth recalling to memory that four hundred +years ago, when Columbus first landed upon the island, he found that +the aborigines kept turtle corrals near the beach, amply supplied with +these animals. From them they procured eggs, and also furnished +themselves with the only meat which it was possible to obtain, if we +except that of the little "voiceless dog" which they hunted, and such +birds as they could snare. Probably as many turtles were taken by +those Carib Indians in 1492 as are caught by the fishermen this year +of our Lord, in the same waters, showing how inexhaustible is the +supply of Neptune's kingdom. Modern epicures may not therefore claim +any distinction as to the priority of discovery touching turtle soup +and turtle steaks, both of which were certainly indulged in by the +Caribs in Columbus' time, and probably they were in vogue many +centuries previous. + +One neither departs from nor approaches the Cuban shore without +crossing that marvelous ocean river, the Gulf Stream, with banks and +bottom of cold water, while its body and surface are warm. Its color, +in the region of the gulf where it seems to have its rise, is indigo +blue, so distinct that the eye can follow its line of demarkation +where it joins the common waters of the sea in their prairie-green. +Its surface temperature on the coast of the United States is from 75 deg. +to 80 deg. Fahrenheit. Its current, of a uniform speed of four to five +miles per hour, expends immense power in its course, and moves a body +of water in the latitude of the Carolina coast fully two hundred miles +wide. This aqueous body exceeds in quantity the rivers of the +Mississippi and the Amazon multiplied one thousand times. Its +temperature diminishes very gradually, while it moves thousands of +leagues, until one branch loses itself in Arctic regions, and the +other breaks on the coast of Europe. It is well known to navigators +that one branch of the Gulf Stream finds its outlet northward from the +Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage, and that here the current +extends to the depth of eight hundred fathoms; the width, however, in +this section is not over ten miles. It will be nothing new to tell the +reader that the sea, especially in its proximity to the continents, +has a similar topographical conformation beneath its surface. The +bottom consists of hills, mountains, and valleys, like the surface of +the earth upon which we live. A practical illustration of the fact is +afforded in the soundings taken by the officers of our Coast Survey in +the Caribbean Sea, where a valley was found giving a water depth of +three thousand fathoms, twenty-five miles south of Cuba. The Cayman +islands, in that neighborhood, are the summit of mountains bordering +this deep valley at the bottom of the sea. It is known to extend over +seven hundred miles, from between Cuba and Jamaica nearly to the head +of the bay of Honduras, with an average breadth of eighty miles. How +suggestive the subject of these submarine Alps! Thus the island of +Grand Cayman, scarcely twenty feet above sea level, is the top of a +mountain twenty thousand five hundred and sixty-eight feet above the +bottom of the submarine valley beside which it rises,--an altitude +exceeding that of any mountain on the North American continent. A +little more than five miles, or say twenty-seven thousand feet, is the +greatest depth yet sounded at sea. + +With an extensive coast-line particularly well adapted for the +purpose, smuggling is at all times successfully carried on in Cuba, +stimulated by an almost prohibitory tariff. It is well understood that +many of the most prosperous merchants in Havana are secretly engaged +in this business. The blindness of minor officials is easily +purchased. The eastern department of the island is most notorious for +this class of illegal trade. It was through these agencies that the +revolutionists were so well supplied with arms, ammunition, and other +necessities during the eight years of civil war. While we are writing +these lines, the cable brings us news of a fresh landing of +"filibusters" on the shores in this immediate neighborhood. + +Cuba is the most westerly of the West Indian isles, and compared with +the others has nearly twice as much superficial extent of territory, +being about as large as England proper, without the principality of +Wales. Its greatest length from east to west is very nearly eight +hundred miles; its narrowest part is over twenty miles, and its +average width about forty miles. The circumference of the island is +set down at two thousand miles, and it is supposed to contain +thirty-five thousand square miles. The face of the interior is +undulating, with an average level of three hundred feet above the +surface of the sea. The narrow form of the island, and the chain of +mountains which divides it throughout its whole length, leave a +limited course for its rivers, and consequently most of these in the +rainy season become torrents, and during the rest of the year are +nearly dried up. Those streams which sustain themselves at all seasons +are well stocked with fine fish, and afford to lovers of the piscatory +art admirable sport. Near their mouths some of the rivers, like those +of the opposite coast of Florida, are frequented by crocodiles. + +The chain of mountains running through the centre of the island, more +or less broken in its course, is lofty in the east, but gradually +diminishes in elevation towards the west, until it becomes a series of +gently undulating hills of one or two hundred feet above sea level, +ceasing as a connected range in the vicinity of Matanzas. On the +easterly end this range of mountains approaches the south coast +between Puerto Principe and Trinidad. The country lying between Cape +Cruz, Cape Maysi, and the town of Holguin has the highest elevations; +the most lofty point, Turquino, lately measured, has a height of ten +thousand eight hundred feet. Illustrative of the great revolutions +which the globe has undergone in its several geological epochs, +petrified shells and bivalves are found on the summits of these +highest peaks, surrounded by coral rocks, both of which differ +entirely from those at present existing on the shores of the Antilles. +An immense bowlder was pointed out to us on the summit of La Gran +Piedra, at an elevation of five thousand feet, of totally different +composition from any other rocks on the island. The great mystery is +how such a mass of solid stone could have got there. Most of these +mountains are thickly wooded, some of them to their very tops, and +appear to be in a perpetual state of verdure. There are mahogany trees +in these hills reported to be of almost fabulous dimensions, besides +other trees of great age. Some idea of the excellence of the timber +grown in Cuba may be had from the fact that over one hundred Spanish +ships of war--some of which were of the largest size, mounting a +hundred and twenty guns--have been built from native stock at the port +of Havana. + +Copper ore is found in abundance, as well as silver and iron, in the +mountains. Snow is never known to fall even in these elevated +districts, and of course in no other part of the island. In the +interior, the extreme heat of the low-lying sea-coast and cities is +not experienced, and the yellow fever is unknown. Low, level swampy +land is found only on the southern coast, where there are some wild +deer, wild cats and dogs, which are hunted; the former introduced into +Cuba half a century since, the two latter descended from domestic +animals. Large tracts of undulating country are without trees, +affording good pasturage. In some of the mountains are extensive +caves, not unlike the caves of Bellamar near the city of Matanzas, in +which are still to be found the bones of an unknown race, while +several of these elevations are so precipitous as to be nearly +inaccessible. + +Travelers who have visited the Bay of Biscay, on the French and +Spanish shore near Biarritz, have observed how the rocks have been +worn into caverns, arches, alcoves, and honeycombed formations by the +action of the waters for centuries. Just so the soft limestone strata +beneath the surface of Cuba, in many portions of the island, have been +hollowed out, tunneled, and formed into caves, by the tremendous +downpour and wash of tropical rains. So the action of the sea has +created a cave under Moro Castle, at the mouth of the harbor of +Havana, as well as under that other Moro which stands guard over the +entrance of Santiago de Cuba. The existence of these subterranean +caverns has often led to serious accidents. In some instances +buildings which were by chance erected just over them have suddenly +been swallowed up as though by an earthquake. + +Many of the rivers are navigable for short distances. The longest is +the Cauto, in the eastern department, which, rising in the Sierra del +Cobre, passes between Holguin and Jiguani, and empties on the south +coast a little north of Manzanillo. It is navigable for half its +length, between fifty and sixty leagues. The river Ay has falls in its +course two hundred feet high, and a natural bridge spanning it, nearly +as remarkable as that of Virginia. The Sagua le Grande is navigable +for five leagues, and the same may be said of the river Sasa. The +Agabama, emptying on the south coast near Trinidad, is also partially +navigable. There are two hundred and sixty rivers in all, independent +of rivulets and torrents. So abundantly is the island supplied with +fresh-water springs, especially on the south side, that the pure +liquid filters through the fissures of the stratified rock in such +quantities as to form, by hydrostatic pressure, springs in the sea +itself some distance from the shore. The sulphurous and thermal +springs of San Diego are the resort of numerous invalids annually, who +come hither from Europe and America. + +The coast and harbors of Cuba are carefully marked for the purpose of +navigation by eighteen well-placed lighthouses, visible from fifteen +to twenty miles at sea, according to the importance of the surrounding +points. That which stands in Moro Castle, on the south side of the +harbor's entrance at Havana, is eighty feet in height and about a +hundred and fifty from the level of the sea. It is visible in clear +weather twenty miles from shore. In honor of a former Governor-General +this lighthouse bears the inscription "O'Donnell, 1844," in mammoth +letters. So plain and safe is the entrance to this harbor, which in +the narrowest part is some hundred yards wide, that a pilot is hardly +necessary, though foreign vessels generally take one. There is little +or no tide on this part of the coast, the variations never exceeding +two feet. No regular ebb and flow is therefore observable, but when +the land breeze rises there is a very slight tide-way setting out of +the harbor. No country in the world of the size of this island has so +many large and fine harbors. They number twenty-nine on its northern +side and twenty-eight on the southern. The well-defined water-line +along the yellow, rusty rocks of the coast shows the mark of ages, and +also that there has been no upheaval since the land took its present +shape. Where there are no regular harbors the shore is indented with +numerous deep channels forming inlets, safe only for native boatmen, +as the winding course of the blue waters covers myriads of sunken +rocks. On the southern side, opposite the Isle of Pines, there are +some beautiful reaches of beach, over which the gentle surf rolls +continuously with a murmur so soft as to seem like the whispered +secrets of the sea. Yet what frightful historic memories brood over +these deep waters of the Archipelago, where for nearly two centuries +floated and fought the ships of sea-robbers of every nationality, and +where the cunning but guilty slave-clippers, fresh from the coast of +Africa, loaded with kidnapped men and women, made their harbor! With +all their dreamy beauty, the tropics are full of sadness, both in +their past and present history. + +The occasional hurricanes, which prove so disastrous to the Bahamas +and other isles in the immediate vicinity of Cuba, rarely extend their +influence to its shores, but the bursts of fury which these usually +tranquil seas sometimes indulge in are not excelled in violence in the +worst typhoon regions. + +The nearest port of the island to this continent is Matanzas, lying +due south from Cape Sable, Florida, a distance of a hundred and thirty +miles. Havana is located some sixty miles west of Matanzas, and it is +here that the island divides the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico, whose +coast-line, measuring six thousand miles, finds the outlet of its +commerce along the shore of Cuba, almost within range of the guns in +Moro Castle. Lying thus at our very door as it were, this island +stands like a sentinel, guarding the approaches of the Gulf of Mexico, +whose waters wash the shores of five of the United States, and by +virtue of the same position barring the entrance of the great river +which drains half the continent of North America. Nor does the +importance of the situation end here. Cuba keeps watch and ward over +our communication with California by way of the isthmus. The peculiar +formation of the southeastern shore of this continent, and the +prevalence of the trade-winds, with the oceanic current from east to +west, make the ocean passage skirting the shore of Cuba the natural +outlet for the commerce also of Venezuela, New Granada, Costa Rica, +and Nicaragua. It is not surprising, therefore, when we realize the +commanding position of the island, that so much of interest attaches +to its ultimate destiny. + +Cuba seems formed to become the very button on Fortune's cap. No +wonder that the Abbe Raynal pronounced it to be the boulevard of the +New World, or that the Spanish historian called it the fairest emerald +in the crown of Ferdinand and Isabella. Under any other government in +Christendom than that of Spain, the island would to-day have been one +vast smiling garden, for its natural advantages are absolutely +unequaled. To oppress and rob its inhabitants has been the unvarying +policy of the home government from first to last. The undisguised +system has been to extort from them every farthing possible in the way +of taxes. No legitimate business could sustain itself against the +enormous exactions of the Spanish rule. Coffee and cotton planting +have been absolutely driven out of the island by the taxes imposed +upon their production. In short, the mother country has carried her +system of oppression and despotism in Cuba to the utmost stretch of +human audacity. + +Probably no place has a finer or more desirable climate than has the +main portion of Cuba, with the clear atmosphere of the low latitudes, +no mist, the sun seldom obscured, and a season of endless summer. We +do not wonder that the Northern invalid turns instinctively towards so +inviting a clime, where Nature in all her moods is so regal. The +appearance of the sky at night is far brighter and more beautiful than +at the North. The atmosphere does not seem to lose its transparency +with the departure of the day. Sunset is remarkable for its soft +mellow beauty, all too brief to a New England eye accustomed to the +lingering brilliancy of our twilights. For more than half a century +the island has been the resort of invalids from colder climes in +search of health, especially those laboring under pulmonary +affections. Such have rarely failed to realize more or less benefit +from the mild and equable temperature. The climate so uniformly soft +and soothing, the vegetation so thriving and beautiful, the fruits so +delicious and abundant, give it a character akin to fairyland. Here +Nature seems ever in a tender, loving mood, the very opposite of her +cold temperament at the North. + +The best time to visit the island, for those who do so in search of +health, is from the beginning of January to the middle of May. It is +imprudent to remain in the cities of Cuba later than the latter +period, as the fever season then commences. The invalid will find that +very many physical comforts, and some things deemed imperative at +home, must be sacrificed here as quite unattainable: such, for +instance, as good beds, strict cleanliness, good milk, and sweet +butter. The climatic advantages must suffice for such deprivations. +During the greater portion of the year it is dry and hot, the rainy +season commencing in June and ending in September. The northeast +trade-winds blow over the island from March to October, and though it +is especially important to avoid all draughts in the tropics, still +one can always find a sufficiently cool and comfortable temperature +somewhere, when the trade-wind prevails. To persons in the early +stages of consumption this region holds forth great promise of relief; +the author can bear witness of remarkable benefit having been realized +in many instances. At the period of the year when New England invalids +most require to avoid the rigors of the prevailing east winds, namely, +in February, March, April, and early May, the island of Cuba is in the +glory of high summer, and enjoying the healthiest period of its annual +returns. When consumption originates in the island,--as was also found +to be the case at Nassau,--it runs its course to a fatal end with such +rapidity that the natives consider it to be a contagious disease. +Early in May the unacclimated would do well to leave, taking passage +up the Gulf to New Orleans, or across the Gulf Stream, which here runs +thirty-two miles in width, to Key West, Florida, thence by boat to +Tampa Bay, and by railroad to Sanford, and by the St. John's River to +St. Augustine, enjoying a brief stay at the latter places, where every +requisite convenience can be enjoyed. Jacksonville should not be +missed, and by coming north thus slowly and pleasantly, the change of +climate is not realized, and June weather will greet the returning +traveler with genial warmth. + +Owing to the proximity of the northwestern part of Cuba to our own +continent, the climate is somewhat variable, and at a height of five +hundred feet above the level of the sea, ice is sometimes, though +rarely formed; but, as has already been said in these notes, snow +never falls upon the island. At long intervals Cuba has been visited +by brief hailstorms, and persons who tell you this will add, "but we +never have known it in our day." In the cities and near the swamps, +the yellow fever, that scourge of all hot climates, prevails from the +middle of June to the last of October; but in the interior of the +island, where the visitor is at a wholesome distance from humidity and +stagnant water, it is no more unhealthy than our own cities in summer. +It is doubtful if Havana, even in the fever season, is any more +unhealthy than New Orleans at the same period of the year. Fevers of +different degrees of malignity prevail from May to November, and +occasionally throughout the year. Among these the yellow fever is the +most dangerous, and sooner or later all resident foreigners seem to +suffer from it, as a sort of acclimation; once experienced, however, +one is seldom attacked a second time. In the ports yellow fever is +often induced by carelessness and exposure; excesses on the part of +foreign sailors are frequently the cause of its fatal attack upon +them. The thermometer is never known to rise so high in Havana or +Santiago, the opposite extremes of the island, as it does sometimes in +New York and Boston. The average temperature is recorded as being 77 deg., +maximum 89 deg., minimum 50 deg. Fahrenheit. We have been thus elaborate as +regards this matter because it is of such general interest to all +invalids who annually seek an equable clime. + +The principal cities are Havana, with a population of nearly three +hundred thousand; Matanzas, with fifty thousand; Puerto Principe, +thirty thousand; Cienfuegos, twenty-five thousand; Trinidad, fourteen +thousand; San Salvador, ten thousand; Manzanillo, Cardenas, Nuevitas, +Sagua la Grande, and Mariel. Among its largest and finest harbors +those of Havana, Santiago de Cuba, Nipe, and Nuevitas are the best; +the bay of Matanzas is also large, but shallow. This city stands next +to Havana in population, but not in commercial importance. It is said +to be healthier than the capital, but it lacks those attractions of +life and gayety which are essential even to invalids to render them +contented. The streets are wide, and many of the Moorish +characteristics of Spanish cities, so common in both this island and +the European peninsula, are wanting here. It was built much later and +more under foreign direction than Havana. The secret of the superior +health of Matanzas over that of the capital is undoubtedly because of +its better drainage and general cleanliness. + +Located in one of the most fertile portions of the island, the city +extends up the picturesque and verdant hills by which the bay is +surrounded, in the form of an amphitheatre. The fortifications are of +rather a meagre character, and could not withstand a well organized +attack for half an hour. Modern improvements in the construction of +heavy guns and projectiles have rendered all the forts in Cuba of no +importance as a means of defense against a first-class invading fleet. +The custom house is the most prominent building which strikes the eye +on approaching the city by water; though built of stone, it is only +one story in height, and was erected at the commencement of the +present century. On the heights above the city the inhabitants have +planted their country seats, from whence the view of the widespreading +bay forms a delightful picture. The climate is thought to be +especially adapted for the cure of throat and lung diseases, and the +city is annually resorted to by those seeking relief from these +troubles, as also by those afflicted with neuralgia and rheumatism. +The first land made by southern-bound steamers from Boston and New +York is the Monte del Pan, or Bread Mountain, forming a lofty +background for the city. There are three large churches in Matanzas, a +well appointed and spacious theatre, a bull-ring, and cock-pits. +Statistics show that the custom-house receipts of the port reach about +two million dollars annually. There are two railroads connecting the +city with Havana, one of which runs also to the interior southeasterly +to Cienfuegos, Sagua, and Villa Clara, intersecting a rich +sugar-producing country, from whence it brings a large amount of +freight to the coast for shipment. On these Cuban roads one rides in +American-built cars, drawn by American engines, and often run by +American engineers. Railroads were in use in Cuba before they were +adopted in any other Spanish-speaking country, and there are now +nearly a thousand miles in active operation on the island. + +Matanzas is bounded on the north by the river Yumuri, and on the south +by that of San Juan. The town is built upon the site of a former +Indian village, known to the early discoverers by the name of Yucayo. +It is upon the whole a well-built city, containing some small public +squares and a pretty Plaza de Armas, like that of Havana, ornamented +with choice trees and flowers, with a statue of Ferdinand VII. in its +centre. It was in this square that Gabriel Concepcion de la Valdez, a +mulatto poet and patriot of Cuba, was shot by the soldiers of the +line. He was accused of complicity with the slave insurrection of +1844, when the blacks attempted to gain their freedom. At the time of +his execution the first volley fired by the troops failed to touch a +vital spot, and the brave victim, bleeding from many wounds, still +stood erect, facing his executioners. He then pointed to his heart, +and said in a calm clear voice, "Aim here!" The order was at once +obeyed, and the second volley sent the heroic man to that haven where +there is no distinction as to color. This martyr, of whom +comparatively little is known to the public, possessed all the true +elements of a poet. Many of his productions have been preserved in +print, and some were translated and republished in England a few years +since. + +The Plaza of Matanzas is small, smaller even than that of Cienfuegos, +but it presents within its circumscribed space a great variety of +tropical trees and flowers, over which stand, sentinel-like, a few +royal palms with their ashen-gray stems and concentric rings. The star +of Bethlehem, fifteen feet high, was here seen full of lovely scarlet +blossoms; the southern jasmine, yellow as gold, was in its glory; +mignonette, grown to a graceful tree of twenty feet in height, was +fragrant and full of blossoms, close beside the delicate vinca, decked +in white and red. Some broad-leaved bananas were thriving in the +Plaza, while creeping all over that tree and shrub combined, the +Spanish bayonet, were pink, purple, and white morning-glories, at once +so familiar and suggestive. Opposite the Plaza are several government +offices, and two or three very large, fine club-houses, remarkable for +the excellence of their appointments and the spaciousness of the +public rooms. Club life prevails in Matanzas, as usual at the expense +of domestic life, just as it does in Havana, being very much like +London in this respect. It is forbidden to discuss politics in these +clubs, the hours being occupied mostly over games of chance, such as +cards, dominoes, chess, and checkers. Gambling is as natural and +national in Cuba as in China. Many Chinese are seen about the streets +and stores of Matanzas, as, indeed, all over the island--poor fellows +who have survived their apprenticeship and are now free. They are +peaceful, do not drink spirits, work from morning until night, never +meddle with politics, and live on one half they can earn, so as to +save enough to return to their beloved native land. You may persuade +him to assent to any form of religion as a temporary duty, but John is +a heathen at heart, and a heathen he will die. + +The famous afternoon drive of Matanzas was formerly the San Carlos +Paseo. It has fine possibilities, and is lined and beautifully +ornamented with thrifty Indian laurels. It overlooks the spacious +harbor and outer bay, but is now utterly neglected and abandoned; even +the roadway is green with vegetation and gullied with deep hollows. It +is the coolest place in the city at the evening hour, but the people +have become so poor that there are hardly a dozen private vehicles +owned in the city, and, consequently, its famous drive is deserted. +Matanzas, like all the cities of Cuba, is under the shadow of +depressed business, the evidences of which meet one on all hands. + +The two objects of special interest to strangers who visit Matanzas +are, first, the valley of the Yumuri, which may be described briefly +as a narrow gorge four miles long, through which flows the river of +the same name. The view of this lovely valley will recall, to any one +who has visited Spain, the Vega of Granada. There are several +positions from which to obtain a good view of the valley, but that +enjoyed from the Chapel of Monserrate, on the hill just back of the +town, is nearest, and was most satisfactory to us. The view includes a +valley, peaceful, tropical, and verdant, embracing plantations, +groves, and farms, in the midst of which the river glides like a +silver thread through the verdure, and empties into the Bay of +Matanzas. The universal belief is that this vale was once a vast, deep +lake, walled across the present seaward opening of the valley, from +whence a fall may have existed as a natural overflow. Some fearful +convulsion of nature rent this bowl and precipitated the lake into the +ocean, leaving only the river's course. + +The second object of note which the visitor will not willingly miss is +a sight of the famous caves of Bellamar, situated about two leagues +from the city proper. It is customary to make this trip in a volante, +and it is quite the thing to ride, at least once, in this unique +vehicle, the only article ever invented in Cuba. The road to the +caves is extremely rough, and this vehicle is best adapted to pass +over the irregularities. If there are only gentlemen of the party, go +on horseback. On entering the caves the visitor should throw off any +extra clothing that can conveniently be left behind, as it is very +warm within, and on coming out, unless one has an extra garment to put +on, too great a change of temperature will be realized. These singular +caves lead three hundred feet and more beneath the surface, and +present beauties to the eye incident to all such subterranean +formations. They were discovered accidentally, a few years since, by +some stone quarriers, who, on opening into them, imagined they had +broken the crust of the earth. In driving to the caves the Bay Street +road, through the city, should be taken, which forms one of the finest +thoroughfares of any Cuban town. The architecture of the dwellings is +that of combined Italian, Grecian, and Moorish, ornamented with +colonnades and verandas of stone and iron. Fine as the facades of +these houses are,--none above one story in height,--they present a +faded and forlorn aspect, a sort of dead-and-alive appearance, yet in +accordance with life and business, not only in Matanzas, but all over +the island. This one boulevard of Matanzas ends by the shore of the +bay, where the fine marine view will cause you to forget all other +impressions for the moment, but you will not tarry here. Turning +eastward you soon strike the road to the caves, and _such_ a road--it +is like the bed of a dry mountain torrent. + +Persons visiting Matanzas must make up their minds to be content with +indifferent hotel accommodations. In fact there are no really good +hotels in Cuba; those which exist are poor and expensive. On the +inland routes away from the cities there are none, and the humble +hostelries, or posadas, as they are called, are so indifferent in +point of comforts as not to deserve the name of inns. As a rule, +invalids rarely go beyond the cities to remain over night. Brief and +pleasant sojourns may be made at Havana, Cienfuegos, Matanzas, and +Sagua la Grande, from whence excursions can be made by rail or +otherwise and return on the same day. Let us qualify these remarks, as +applied to the Hotel Louvre at Matanzas. There was a degree of +picturesqueness about this establishment which was not without its +attraction, and it was certainly the most cleanly public house in +which we found a temporary home while on the island. Its rooms +surrounded a bright clean court, or patio, planted with creeping +vines, palmettos, bananas, and some fragrant flowering shrubs. The +dining-room is virtually out of doors, being open on all sides, and +opposite the hotel is a small plaza with tropical trees, backed by an +old, musty church, whose bell had the true Spanish trick of giving +tongue at most inopportune moments. The rooms of the Louvre are quite +circumscribed as to space, and the partitions separating the +apartments do not reach to the ceiling, so that privacy, night or day, +is out of the question. The floors are all tiled in white marble, and +the attendance is courteous. One does not look for a choice bill of +fare in Cuba, and therefore will not be disappointed on that score. +You will be charged Fifth Avenue prices, however, if you do not get +Fifth Avenue accommodations. If you have learned in your travels to +observe closely, to study men as well as localities, to enjoy Nature +in her ever-varying moods, and to delight in luxurious fruits, +flowers, and vegetation, you will find quite enough to occupy and +amuse the mind, and make you forget altogether the grosser senses of +appetite. + +Puerto Principe is the capital of the central department of Cuba, and +is located well inland. The trade of the place, from the want of water +carriage, is inconsiderable, and bears no proportion to the number of +its inhabitants, which aggregates nearly thirty-one thousand. The +product of the neighborhood, to find means of export, must first make +its way twelve and a half leagues to Nuevitas, from whence, in return, +it receives its foreign supplies. The two places are now, however, +connected by a railroad. Puerto Principe is about one hundred and +fifty leagues from Havana. Its original location, as founded by +Velasquez in 1514, was at Nuevitas, but the inhabitants, when the +place was feeble in numbers, were forced to remove from the coast to +avoid the fierce incursions of the pirates, as did the people of +Trinidad, who removed from the harbor of Casilda. + +Cardenas is situated a hundred and twenty miles from Havana on the +north coast, and is the youngest town of note in Cuba, having been +founded so late as 1827. It has a population of between four and five +thousand. Its prosperity is mostly owing to the great fertility of the +land by which it is surrounded. It is called the American city, +because of the large number of Americans doing business here, and also +because the English language is so universally spoken by the people +who reside in the place. The Plaza contains an excellent marble statue +of Columbus, and is tastefully ornamented with tropical verdure. In +the harbor of Cardenas is seen one of those curious springs of fresh +water which bubble up beneath the salt sea. The city is the centre of +a sugar-producing district, and a considerable portion of the sugar +crop of the vicinity of Havana is also shipped from this port to +America. It is connected with both the metropolis and Matanzas by +rail, and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary +time for doing so. + +Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island, +are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of +it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable +timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might, +with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone, +which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of +the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture +are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never +be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have +not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are +passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the +Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the +purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well +as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything +practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. -- + Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban + Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic + Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. -- + Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish + or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of + Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. -- + Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. -- + Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. -- + Sea-Bathing. + + +Havana is a thoroughly representative city,--Cuban and nothing else. +Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being +the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been +reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with +its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall +sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the +harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the +Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city +side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind +the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of +Spain,--the banner of blood and gold. So many and strong +fortifications show how important the home government regard the +place. + +The harbor or bay is shaped like one's outspread hand, with the wrist +for an entrance, and is populous with the ships of all nations. It +presents at all times a scene of great maritime activity. Besides the +national ships of other countries and those of Spain, mail steamers +from Europe and America are coming and going daily, also coasting +steamers from the eastern and southern shores of the island, added to +regular lines for Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea. The +large ferry steamers plying constantly between the city and the Regla +shore, the fleet of little sailing boats, foreign yachts, and +rowboats, glancing in the burning sunlight, create a scene of great +maritime interest. + +The city presents a large extent of public buildings, cathedrals, +antique and venerable churches. It has been declared in its prosperity +to be the richest place for its number of square miles in the world, +but this cannot be said of it at the present time. There is nothing +grand in its appearance as one enters the harbor and comes to anchor, +though Baron Humboldt pronounced it the gayest and most picturesque +sight in America. Its multitude of churches, domes, and steeples are +not architecturally remarkable, and are dominated by the colossal +prison near the shore. This immense quadrangular edifice flanks the +Punta, and is designed to contain five thousand prisoners at a time. +The low hills which make up the distant background are not +sufficiently high to add much to the general effect. The few palm +trees which catch the eye here and there give an Oriental aspect to +the scene, quite in harmony with the atmospheric tone of intense +sunshine. Unlike Santiago or Matanzas, neither the city nor its +immediate environs is elevated, so that the whole impression is that +of flatness, requiring some strength of background to form a complete +picture. The martial appearance of the Moro and the Cabanas, +bristling with cannon, is the most vivid effect of the scene, taken as +a whole. It might be a portion of continental Spain broken away from +European moorings, and floated hither to find anchorage in the +Caribbean Sea. One is also reminded of Malta, in the farther +Mediterranean, and yet the city of Valetta, bright, sunny, and +elevated, is quite unlike Havana, though Fortress St. Angelo overlooks +and guards the place as the Moro does this tropical harbor, and Cuba +is the Italy of America. + +The waters of the harbor, admittedly one of the finest in the world, +are most of the time extremely dirty. Many years ago a canal was +commenced which was designed to create a flowage calculated to keep +the harbor clear of the constantly accumulating filth, but it was +never finished, and there remains an evidence of Spanish inefficiency, +while the harbor continues to be a vast cesspool. It would be supposed +that in a fever-haunted region, great attention would be bestowed upon +the matter of drainage, but this is not the case in Havana, or other +cities of the island. Most of the effort made in this direction is +surface drainage, the liquid thus exposed quickly evaporating in the +hot sunshine, or being partially absorbed by the soil over which it +passes. + +Havana contains numerous institutions of learning: a Royal University, +founded in 1733, a medical and law school, and chairs of all the +natural sciences. In spite of their liberal purposes and capabilities, +however, there is a blight hanging over them. Pupils enlist cautiously +and reluctantly. Among other schools there is a Royal Seminary for +girls, scarcely more than a name, a free school of sculpture and +painting, and a mercantile school, with a few private institutions of +learning. There is a fairly good museum of natural history, and just +outside the city a botanical garden. Still the means of education are +very limited in Cuba, an evidence of which is the fact that so many of +her youth of both sexes are sent to this country for educational +purposes. An order was at one time issued by the government +prohibiting this, but its arbitrary nature was so very outrageous, +even for a Spanish government, that it was permitted to become a dead +letter. What are called free schools, as we use the term, are not +known in the island; the facilities for obtaining even the simplest +education are very poor. Boys and girls, so far as any attempt is made +to educate them, are taught separately, and really under the eye of +the Church. Priests and nuns are the agents, the former notoriously +making a cloak of their profession for vile and selfish purposes. If +we speak decidedly upon this subject, yet we do so with less emphasis +than do the Cubans. The girls are taught embroidery and etiquette, +considered to be the chief and about the only things necessary for +them to know. These young girls are women at the age of thirteen or +fourteen, and frequently mothers of families before they are twenty. +Of course they fade early. In domestic life the husband is literally +lord and master, the wife, ostensibly at least, is all obedience. +There is no woman's rights association on the island, nor even a +Dorcas society. While young and unmarried, the ladies are strict +adherents to all the conventionalities of Spanish etiquette, which is +of the most exacting character, but after marriage the sex is perhaps +as French as the Parisians, and as gay as the Viennese, under the +stimulus of fast and fashionable society. + +The reason of the edict issued by the government forbidding parents +to send their children to this country for educational purposes was +obvious. The young Cubans during their residence here imbibed liberal +ideas as to our republican form of government, which they freely +promulgated and advocated on their return to their native island. Even +those who had been educated in France or England, and they were +numerous, readily sympathized with the pupils returned from America, +and became a dangerous element. Long before the first Lopez +expedition, these sons of planters and rich merchants had formed +themselves into a secret society, with the avowed purpose of freeing +Cuba sooner or later from the Spanish yoke. + +The low-lying, many-colored city of Havana, called San Cristobel, +after the great discoverer, was originally surrounded by a wall, +though the population has long since extended its dwellings and +business structures far into what was, half a century since, the +suburbs. A portion of the old wall is still extant, crumbling and +decayed, but it has mostly disappeared. The narrow streets are paved +or macadamized, and cross each other at right angles, like those of +Philadelphia, but in their dimensions reminding one of continental +Toledo, whose Moorish architecture is also duplicated here. There are +no sidewalks, unless a narrow line of flagstones can be so called, and +in fact the people have less use for them where nearly every one rides +in a victoria, the fare being but sixteen cents per mile. A woman of +respectability is scarcely ever seen walking in the streets, unless +she is a foreigner, or of the lower class, such as sellers of fruit, +etc. Those living in close proximity to the churches are sometimes +seen proceeding to early mass, accompanied by a negress carrying a +portable seat, or a bit of carpet on which to kneel upon the marble +floor of the cathedral. But even this is exceptional. Cuban etiquette +says that a lady must not be seen on the streets except in a vehicle, +and only Americans, English, and other foreigners disregard the rule. + +The architecture of the dwelling-houses is exceedingly heavy, giving +them the appearance of great age. They are built of the porous stone +so abundant upon the island, which, though soft when first worked into +suitable blocks, becomes as hard as granite by exposure to the +atmosphere. The facades of the town houses are nearly always covered +with stucco. Their combination of colors, yellow, green, and blue, +harmonizes with the glowing atmosphere of the tropics. This will +strike the stranger at first as being very odd; there is no system +observed, the tenant of each dwelling following his individual fancy +as to the hue he will adopt, a dingy yellow prevailing. Standing upon +the Campo de Marte and looking in any direction, these changing colors +give a picturesque effect to the range of buildings which surround the +broad field. In this vicinity the structures are nearly all of two +full stories, and many with rows of lofty pillars supporting broad +verandas, including one or two palaces, one fine large club-house, +some government offices, and the Telegrafo Hotel. These varying colors +are not for fancy alone, they have a raison d'etre; namely, to absorb +the sharp rays of the constant sunshine. But for some toning down of +the glare, one's eyes would hardly be able to sustain the power of +vision. The vividness with which each individual building and object +stands out in the clear liquid light is one of the first peculiarities +which will strike the stranger. + +The dwelling-houses are universally so constructed as to form an open +square in the centre, which constitutes the only yard or court that is +attached. The house is divided into a living-room, a store-room, +chambers, and stable, these all upon one floor, while the family +vehicle blocks up in part the only entrance, which is used in common +by horses, ladies, slaves, and gentlemen callers. If there is a second +story, a broad flight of steps leads to it, and there are the family +chambers or sleeping apartments, opening upon a corridor which extends +round the court. Peculiar as this manner of building at first seems, +it is well adapted to the climate, and one soon becomes satisfied with +it. + +With such surroundings it is easy to imagine one's self at Granada, in +far-off Spain, and it seems almost natural to look about for the +Alhambra. An air of rude grandeur reigns over these houses, the +architecture being Gothic and Saracenic. In the more ancient portions +of the town little picturesque balconies of iron or wood jut out from +the second-story windows, where the houses rise to the dignity of two +stories. From these balconies hang little naked children, like small +performers upon the trapeze, until the passer-by fears for their +lives. The travel in the narrow streets is regulated by law, and so +divided that only certain ones are used for vehicles going north, and +others for those traveling south. Thus, vehicles bound into the city +from the Paseo go by the way of Obispo Street, but must return by +O'Riley Street, so that no two ever meet in these narrow +thoroughfares,--a plan which might be advantageously adopted +elsewhere. + +The rooms of the houses are lofty and the floors stuccoed or tiled in +marble, while the walls and ceilings are frequently ornamented in +fresco, the excellence of the workmanship varying in accordance with +the owner's means. The most striking peculiarity of the town-house in +Cuba is the precaution taken to render it safe against sudden attack. +Every man's house is literally his castle here, each accessible window +being secured with stout iron bars, reaching from the top to the +bottom, while bullet-proof doors bar the entrance,--the whole +seriously suggestive of jails and lunatic asylums. No carpets are used +even in the parlors, though a long rug is sometimes placed between the +inevitable double row of rocking-chairs. The best floors are laid in +white marble and jasper. The great heat of the climate renders even +wooden floors quite insupportable. The visitor is apt to find his bed +rather unsatisfactory, it being formed by stretching a coarse canvas +upon a framework, with an upper and under sheet. Mattresses are not +used by the natives, who reject them as being too warm to sleep upon, +but the liberality evinced in the shape of mosquito netting is as +commendable as it is necessary. + +The public vehicle called a victoria is a sort of four-wheeled calash, +and it has entirely superseded the volante for city use. There are +thousands of them about the town, forming a collection of wretchedly +wornout carriages, drawn by horses in a like condition. The drivers +occupy an elevated seat, and are composed equally of whites and +negroes. The charge for a passage from point to point within the city +is forty cents in Cuban paper money, equal to sixteen cents of our +currency; three times that sum is charged if engaged for the hour. The +streets are in a very bad condition and sadly need repairing. The +roads leading out to the suburbs in every direction are full of deep +holes, and are badly gullied by the heavy rains. The streets, even +about the paseos, are so impregnated with filth, here and there, as to +be sickening to the senses of the passer-by. Once in three or four +weeks somebody is awakened to the exigency of the situation, and a +gang of men is put to work to cleanse the principal thoroughfares, but +this serves only a temporary purpose. We were told that the reason for +this neglect was that no one was regularly paid for work; even the +police had not received any pay for seven months, and many refused to +serve longer. The soldiery had not been paid their small stipend for +nearly a year, but enlisted men sent out from Spain, forming the army, +are more easily kept together and more amenable to discipline than any +civil body of officials could be. "With everybody and everything so +enormously taxed," we ventured to suggest to our informants, "there +should be no lack of pecuniary means wherewith to carry on all +departments of the government. Pray what becomes of all this money?" +The reply was, "Who can say?" with a significant shrug of the +shoulders. With all the exactions of the officials, and with the +collection of nearly thirty millions of dollars annually, but a moiety +finds its way into the national treasury. Peculation is reduced to a +science, and is practiced from the highest to the lowest official sent +out by the home government. "Spain has squeezed the orange nearly +dry," said a distinguished Cuban to us in Matanzas, "and a collapse is +inevitable. We are anxiously waiting to see it come; any change would +be for the better. We were long threatened with a war of races, if we +did not sustain Spanish rule in the island. That is, if we were not +loyal to the Madrid authorities, the slaves should be freed to prey +upon us. Blood would flow like water. The incendiary torch would be +placed in the hands of the negroes, and they should be incited to +burn, steal, and ravish! Cuba should be Spanish or African. There was +a time when this threat had great force, and its execution was indeed +to be dreaded; but that time is past, and no such fear now exists. The +slaves are being gradually freed, and are amalgamating with the rest +of the populace. The slow liberation of the blacks has accustomed them +to freedom, and any organized outrage from that source has ceased to +be feared." + +Why all the bells in Havana should be rung furiously and continuously +every morning about daylight, one cannot exactly understand. There +does not seem to be any concert of action in this awful conspiracy +against sleep; but the tumult thus brought about would certainly seem +to be sufficient to "wake the isle from its propriety." From every +square with its church, and every church with its towers, this +brazen-tongued clamor is relentlessly poured forth. In most Christian +lands one good bell is all-sufficient for a church steeple, but here +they have them in the plural, and all striving to excel each other at +the same moment. Of course no one is able to sleep amid such an +outburst of noise, or within the radius of a league. Bells and +mosquitoes are two of the prevailing nuisances of this thrice-sunny +city. Nor must we forget to add to these aggravations the ceaseless, +triumphant crowing of the game-cocks, the noisiest and most boastful +of birds, large numbers of which are kept by the citizens purely for +gambling purposes in the cock-pit. Besides these "professional" birds, +every nook and corner is filled with fowls kept for brooding purposes, +each bird family with its crower. + +We have said that the Cuban ladies rarely stir abroad except in a +vehicle, and whatever their domestic habits may be, they are certainly +good housekeepers in this respect. While our ladies are busy sweeping +the city sidewalks with their trailing dresses, these wisely leave +that business to the gangs of criminals detailed from prison to fill +that office, with their limbs chained and a heavy ball attached to +preserve their equilibrium,--though we should qualify this remark by +saying that these condemned men, once so common upon the streets and +highways, were not seen during our late visit to Havana. It is, +perhaps, owing to the home-keeping habits of the ladies that the feet +of the Cuban senoritas are such marvels of smallness and delicacy, +seemingly made rather for ornament than for use. You catch a glimpse +of them as they step into their victorias, and perceive that they are +daintily shod in French slippers, the soles of which are scarcely more +substantial than brown paper. Their feet are made for ornament and for +dancing. Though they possess a roundness of form that leaves nothing +to be desired in symmetry of figure, still they are light as a +sylph,--so buoyant, clad in muslin and lace, that it would seem as if +a breeze might waft them away like a summer cloud. Passionately fond +of dancing, they tax the endurance of the gentlemen in their worship +of Terpsichore, stimulated by those Cuban airs which are at once so +sweet and so brilliant. + +There is a striking and endearing charm about the Cuban ladies, their +every motion being replete with a native grace. Every limb is elastic +and supple. Their voices are sweet and low, while the subdued tone of +their complexions is relieved by the arch vivacity of night-black +eyes, that alternately swim in melting lustre, and sparkle in +expressive glances. If their comeliness matures, like the fruits of +their native clime, early and rapidly, it is sad to know that it also +fades prematurely. One looks in vain for that serene loveliness +combined with age which so frequently challenges our admiration at the +North. Their costume is never ostentatious, though often costly, and +sometimes a little too mixed or variegated when seen in public. At +home, however, nothing of this sort is observed. There the dress is +usually composed of the most delicate muslin, the finest linen, and +richest silks. We must admit that one rarely sees elsewhere such +contrasts in colors upon the person of the fair sex as are at times +encountered upon the Paseo. It would drive a French modiste wild to +see the proprieties so outraged. It requires all the proverbial beauty +of these senoras and senoritas to carry off respectably such +combinations as scarlet and yellow, blue and purple, orange and green; +but they do it by sheer force of their beautiful eyes and finely +rounded figures. It must be acknowledged that the element of native +refinement is too often wanting, and that the whole exhibition of the +sex is just a little prononcee. They have no intellectual resort, but +lead a life of decided ease and pleasure much too closely bordering +upon the sensuous, their forced idleness being in itself an incentive +to immorality and intrigue. The indifferent work they perform is +light and simple; a little sewing and embroidery, followed by the +siesta, divides the hours of the day. Those who can afford to keep +their victorias wait until nearly sunset for a drive, and then go to +respond by sweet smiles to the salutations of the caballeros on the +paseos; afterwards to the Parque de Isabella II., to listen to the +military band, and then, perhaps, to join in the mazy dance. That +these ladies are capable of deep feeling and practical sympathy on +such occasions as would naturally draw these qualities forth, we know +by experience. When the patriot forces were poorly armed, with but +scant material, and ammunition was short, these fair patriots gave +freely of their most valuable jewels as a contribution to the cause of +liberty. + +A sad instance illustrative of this fact was told us by a resident of +Havana. The young ladies and matrons of a certain circle in the city, +at the commencement of the year 1872, had put their diamonds and +precious stones together to realize money for forwarding supplies to +the insurgents under Cespedes, who was then operating in the vicinity +of Santiago. The jewels were secretly intrusted to a brother of one of +the ladies, a young man who had just reached the age of twenty-two. +His part of the business was the most difficult to perform, but he +finally succeeded in realizing over four thousand dollars in gold for +the gems intrusted to him. Fortunately the money was at once forwarded +to the patriot leader through a safe and reliable channel. Hardly had +the business been accomplished to the satisfaction of all concerned +when the young Cuban was secretly denounced to the Governor-General as +a suspected person. The settings and jewels had all been disposed of +so as to be beyond recognition, and it is not known to this day how +the brother's complicity with his sisters and their friends was +divulged, but presumedly it was through the Jew pawnbrokers. The +brother was arrested and thrown into Moro Castle, where he was +subjected to the closest examination to find out his accomplices. +Loyal and affectionate, he could not be made to speak. He was finally +offered his freedom and permission to leave the island if he would +divulge all. The government reasoned that if they could make a witness +of him they would succeed in serving their own interest best, as by +sacrificing one prisoner they might gain knowledge of many disaffected +people whom they did not even suspect of disloyalty. One of the +sisters of the prisoner determined to assume the guilt, and declare +that her brother was the unknowing agent of her purpose; but when at +last satisfied that this would not free him, she reluctantly gave up +the design. The young Cuban maintained his silence. No publicity was +given to the matter. He was brought before a military tribunal--so +much is known. The sentence never publicly transpired. Like most +political prisoners who pass within the walls of Moro Castle, his fate +remains a secret. + +There are two sides to every picture; even light casts its shadow, and +we feel constrained to speak plainly. Social life in the island is +certainly at a very low ebb, and unblushing licentiousness prevails. +That there are many and noble exceptions only renders the opposite +fact the more prominent. This immorality is more particularly among +the home Spaniards, whose purpose it is to remain here long enough to +gain a certain amount of money, and then to return to the mother +country to enjoy it. They look upon all associations contracted here +as of a temporary character, and the matter of morality does not +affect them in the least. Domestic comforts are few, and, as we have +intimated, literature is hardly recognized. The almost entire absence +of books or reading matter of any sort is remarkable. A few daily and +weekly newspapers, under rigid censorship, supply all the taste for +letters. Married women seem to sink far below their husbands in +influence. The domestic affections are not cultivated; in short, home +to the average Cuban is only a place to sleep,--not of peaceful +enjoyment. His meals are rarely taken with his family, but all spare +hours are absorbed at the club. Domestic infidelity is prevalent, and +female virtue but little esteemed. Priest-craft and king-craft have +been the curse of both Spain and Cuba. Here, as in Italy, the +outrageous and thinly-disguised immorality of the priesthood poisons +many an otherwise unpolluted fount, and thus all classes are liable to +infection. Popery and slavery are both largely to be charged with the +low condition of morals, though the influence of the former has of +late years been much curtailed, both in Spain and in Cuba. The young +women are the slaves of local customs, as already intimated, and +cannot go abroad even to church without a duenna,--a fact which in +itself proves the debased standard of morals. The men appear to have +no religion at all, but the women very generally attend early mass and +go periodically to confessional. No one seems to think it strange for +a white man to have a colony of mulatto children, even though he be +also the father of a white family! Many have only the mulatto family, +and seem content. These are generally the home Spaniards, already +spoken of, and when their fortunes are secured they recklessly sever +all local ties and responsibilities and return to Spain. This is no +new thing, as there are many families in Cuba of fair position +socially, and often of considerable wealth, whose members are by the +right of classification quadroons. Miscegenation has greatly +complicated social matters, and in half a century, more or less, it +may produce a distinctive class, who will be better able to assert and +sustain their rights than those who have preceded them. + +The class of home Spaniards who have emigrated to Cuba has always been +of a questionable character. The description of them by Cervantes in +his time will apply in our own day with equal force. He says: "The +island is the refuge of the profligates of Spain, a sanctuary for +homicides, a skulking-place for gamblers and sharpers, and a +receptacle for women of free manners,--a place of delusion to many, of +amelioration to few." + +One peculiarity which is sure to strike the stranger unpleasantly, and +to which allusion has incidentally been made, whether in public or +private houses, in the stores or in the streets, is that the colored +children of both sexes, under eight and nine years of age, are +permitted to go about in a state of nudity. In the country, among the +Montero class, this custom also extends to the white children. The +colored men who labor in the streets and on the wharves wear only a +short pair of linen pantaloons, displaying a muscular development +which any white man might envy. The remarkable contrast in the +powerful frames of these dusky Africans and the puny Asiatic coolies +is extraordinary. On the plantations and small farms the slaves wear +but one garment, just sufficient for decency. The great heat when +exposed to the sun is the reason, probably, rather than any economical +idea. + +The populace of Havana is eminently a festive one. Men luxuriate in +the cafe, or spend their evenings in worse places. A brief period of +the morning only is given to business, the rest of the day and night +to melting lassitude, smoking, and luxurious ease. Evidences of +satiety, languor, and dullness, the weakened capacity for enjoyment, +are sadly conspicuous, the inevitable sequence of indolence and vice. +The arts and sciences seldom disturb the thoughts of such people. +Here, as in many European cities, Lazarus and Dives elbow each other, +and an Oriental confusion of quarters prevails. The pretentious +town-house is side by side with the humble quarters of the artisan, or +even the negro hut, about which swarm the naked juveniles of color, a +half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of +this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon +some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but +being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to +some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong +contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements +of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored +where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain +seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is +the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms +most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes, +ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though +there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people +of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most +hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance +of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were +told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and +hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was +obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true. + +Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to +improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us +state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found +where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta +fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh +from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by +much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It +is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of, +refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of +the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The +island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less +similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs. +Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative +properties. + +In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets +at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores, +workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the +master in his shirt-sleeves, surrounded by his family, clerks, and +all white employees, sitting in full sight at breakfast, generally in +the business room itself. The midday siesta, an hour later, if not a +necessity in this climate, is a universal custom. The shopkeeper, even +as he sits on duty, drops his head upon his arm and sleeps for an +hour, more or less. The negro and his master both succumb to the same +influence, catching their forty winks, while the ladies, if not +reclining, "lose themselves" with heads resting against the backs of +the universal rocking-chairs. One interior seen by the passer-by is as +like another as two peas. A Cuban's idea of a well-furnished +sitting-room is fully met by a dozen cane-bottom rocking-chairs, and a +few poor chromos on the walls. These rocking-chairs are ranged in two +even lines, reaching from the window to the rear of the room, with a +narrow woollen mat between them on the marble floor, each chair being +conspicuously flanked by a cuspidor. This parlor arrangement is so +nearly universal as to be absolutely ludicrous. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Sabbath Scenes in Havana. -- Thimble-Riggers and Mountebanks. + -- City Squares and their Ornamentation. -- The Cathedral. -- + Tomb of Columbus. -- Plaza de Armas. -- Out-Door Concerts. -- + Habitues of Paseo de Isabella. -- Superbly Appointed Cafes. + -- Gambling. -- Lottery Tickets. -- Fast Life. -- Masquerade + Balls. -- Carnival Days. -- The Famous Tacon Theatre. -- The + Havana Casino. -- Public Statues. -- Beauties of the + Governor's Garden. -- The Alameda. -- The Old Bell-Ringer. -- + Military Mass. + + +On no other occasion is the difference between the manners of a +Protestant and Catholic community so strongly marked as on the +Sabbath. In the former, a sober seriousness stamps the deportment of +the people, even when they are not engaged in devotional exercises; in +the latter, worldly pleasures and religious forms are pursued, as it +were, at the same time, or follow each other in incongruous +succession. We would not have the day made tedious, and it can only be +so to triflers; to the true Christian it will ever be characterized by +thoughtfulness and repose. The Parisian flies from the church to the +railway station to join some picnic excursion, or to assist at the +race-course, or he passes with a careless levity from St. Genevieve to +the dance booths of the Champs Elysees. In New Orleans, the Creole who +has just bent his knee before the altar repairs to the theatre to pass +the evening; and the Cuban goes from the absolution of the priest to +the hurly-burly of the bull-ring or the cock-pit. + +The influence of fifteen minutes in the church, if salutary, would +seem to be quickly dissipated by the attraction of the gaming-table +and the masked ball. Even the Sunday ceremonial of the Church is a +pageant: the splendid robes of the officiating priest, changed in the +course of the service like the costume of actors in a drama; the +music, to Protestant ears operatic and exciting; the clouds of incense +scattering their intoxicating perfumes; the chanting in a strange +tongue, unknown to the majority of the worshipers,--all tend to give +the Roman Catholic services a carnival character. Far be it from us, +however, to charge these congregations with an undue levity, or a lack +of sincerity. Many a lovely Creole kneels upon the marble floor +entirely estranged from the brilliant groups around her, and +apparently unconscious for the time of the admiration she excites. +There are many, no doubt, who look beyond the glittering symbols to +the great truths of the Being whom they are intended to typify. The +impression made by the Sabbath ceremonials of the Church strikes us as +evanescent, more pleasing to the fancy than informing to the +understanding. Still, if the Sabbath in Catholic countries is not +wholly devoted to religious observances, neither are the week days +wholly absorbed by business and by careless pleasures. The churches +are always open, silently but eloquently inviting to devotion, and it +is much to be able to step aside at any moment from the temptations, +business, and cares of life into an atmosphere of seclusion and +religion. The solemn quiet of an old cathedral on a week day is +impressive from its very contrast to the tumult outside. Within its +venerable walls the light seems chastened, as it falls through stained +panes and paints the images of Christian saints and martyrs on the +pavement of the aisles. A half unwilling reverence is apt to stimulate +us on such an occasion, however skeptical we may be. + +The Sabbath in Havana breaks upon the citizens amid the ringing of +bells, the firing of cannon from the forts, the noise of trumpets, and +the roll of the drum. It is no day of physical rest here, and the +mechanical trades are uninterrupted. It is the chosen period for the +military reviews, the masked ball, and the bull-fight. The stores are +open as usual, the same cries are heard on the streets, and the +lottery tickets are vended on every corner. The individuals who devote +themselves to this business are in numbers like an army with banners. +They rend the air with their cries, promising good luck to all +purchasers, while they flourish their scissors with one hand, and +thrust the sheet of printed numbers in your face with the other, ready +to cut any desired ticket or portion of a ticket. The day proves +equally propitious for the omnipresent organ-grinder and his +ludicrously-dressed little monkey, a la Napoleon; the Chinese peddler; +the orange and banana dealer; and the universal cigarette purveyor. +Still, the rough Montero from the country, with his long line of +loaded mules or ponies, respectfully raises his broad Panama with one +hand while he makes the sign of the cross with the other as he passes +the church door. The churches of Havana look very old and shabby +compared with those of peninsular Spain, where the splendor of church +ornamentation reaches its acme. + +In and about the commercial part of the town, the out-door gambler +forms a conspicuous feature of the Sabbath, seated upon a cloth spread +upon the ground, and armed with cards, dice, cups, and other +instruments. With voluble tongue and expressive pantomime urging the +passer-by to try his luck, he meets with varying success. Many who are +drawn into the net are adroitly permitted to win a little, and +afterwards to lose much. Sailors on shore for a day's liberty are +profitable game for these thimble-riggers, as they are called with us. +Both Spaniards and Creoles patronize them, and occasionally a negro +tries his luck with a trifle. In open squares, or at the intersection +of several streets, one sometimes sees a carpet spread upon the +ground, upon which an athlete accompanied by a couple of expert boys, +dressed in high-colored tights ornamented with spangles, diverts the +throng by exhibiting gymnastics. At the close of the performance, a +young girl in a fancy dress and with long, flowing hair passes among +the spectators and gathers a few shillings. Not far away is observed +Punch and Judy in the height of a successful quarrel to the music of a +harp and a violin. The automatic contestants pound and pommel each +other after the conventional fashion. + +The city abounds in well-arranged squares, often ornamented by the +royal palm, always a figure of majesty and beauty, with here and there +a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel, +which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is +strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same +family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may +be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the +tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either +extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green, +contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light slate color. +It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a +bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as +though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts +great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found +dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups, +or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the +eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long +avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee +plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue. + +The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept +square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the +great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one +corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot +where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated +on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while. +The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime, +though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his +death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas +fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous +old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was +sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age +was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was +erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their +shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it +is opened but once a year to the public,--on the 16th of November, +which is the feast day of San Cristobal, when mass is celebrated in +honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of +Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings. + +This square is divided into neatly kept paths, and planted with +fragrant flowers, conspicuous among which were observed the white and +red camellias, while a grateful air of coolness was diffused by the +playing of a fountain into a broad basin, ornamented by a marble +statue of Ferdinand VII. The Creoles are passionately fond of music, +and this park used to be the headquarters of all out-door concerts. +Their favorite airs are waltzes and native dances, with not a little +of the Offenbach spirit in them. The guitar is the favorite domestic +musical instrument here, as in peninsular Spain, and both sexes are as +a rule clever performers upon it. Evening music in the open air is +always attractive, but nowhere is its influence more keenly felt than +under the mellow effulgence of tropical nights. Nowhere can we +conceive of a musical performance listened to with more relish and +appreciation than in the Plaza de Armas or the Parque de Isabella in +Havana. The latter place on the occasion of the concerts is the resort +of all classes. Here friends meet, flirtations are carried on, toilets +are displayed, and lovers woo. Even the humble classes are seen in +large numbers quietly strolling on the outer portions of the Plaza +listening to the fine performances of the band, and quietly enjoying +the music, "tamed and led by this enchantress still." The balmy nature +of the climate permits the ladies to dispense with shawls or wraps of +any sort; bonnets they very seldom wear, so that they sit in their +vehicles, or alighting appropriate the chairs arranged for the purpose +lining the broad central path, and thus appear in full evening dress, +bare arms, and necks supplemented by most elaborate coiffures. Even +the black lace mantilla, so commonly thrown over the head and +shoulders in the cities of Spain, is discarded of an evening on the +Plaza de Isabella. + +It was very amusing to sit here near the marble statue of the ex-queen +(which is, by the way, a wonderful likeness of Queen Victoria), where +the band, composed of sixty instrumental performers, discoursed +admirable music, and to observe young Cuba abroad, represented by boys +and girls of ten and twelve years dressed like young ladies and +gentlemen, sauntering arm in arm through the broad paths. These +children attend balls given by grown-up people, and are painted and +bedizened and decked out like their elders,--a singular fashion in +Cuban cities. It is true they not infrequently fall asleep on such +occasions in rocking-chairs and in odd corners, overcome by fatigue, +as the hours of festivity creep on towards the morning. Childhood is +ignored. Youth of a dozen years is introduced to the habits of people +thrice that age. We were sadly told, by one who is himself a parent, +that most children in the island but twelve years of age know the +delicate relations of the sexes as well as they would ever know them. +What else could be expected in an atmosphere so wretchedly immoral? +Small boys dressed in stovepipe hats and swallow-tail coats, and +little misses in long dresses with low necks look like mountebanks. + +Opposite the Plaza de Isabella, on the Tacon Theatre side of the +square, are situated the most fashionable cafes and restaurants of the +capital, where "life" commences at nine o'clock in the evening and +rages fast and furious until the small hours of the morning. In these +resorts, which are one blaze of light, every gas-burner reflected by +dozens of mirrors, the marble tables are all occupied by vivacious +patrons. Some are playing dominoes, some few are engaged at games of +chess, others are busy over checkers or cards, and all are gambling. +Even the lookers-on at the games freely stake their money on the +fortunes of the several players. The whole scene is one of noise and +confusion, fifty tongues giving voice at the same time. If a Spaniard +or Creole loses a dollar he gesticulates and argues about it as though +thousands were involved in the issue. These people represent all +classes. Some are in their shirt-sleeves, some roughly clothed, some +in full evening dress; Spaniards, Creoles, mulattoes, and occasionally +an unmistakable European. They drink often, but not strong liquors, +and one is surprised to hear coffee so often called for in place of +wine. The games are kept up until two or three o'clock in the morning. +Loitering about the doors beggars always form the shadow of the scene; +some lame, some blind, mostly negroes and coolies; now and then there +is seen among them an intelligent but sad white face, which looks +rather than utters its appeal. These are often the recipients of the +successful gambler's bounty. Now and again a lottery-ticket vender +comes in and makes the circuit of the tables, always disposing of more +or less chances, sometimes selling a whole ticket, price one doubloon, +or seventeen dollars. As we watch the scene a daintily dressed youth +with shining beaver lounges in, accompanied by one of the demi-monde +gayly dressed and sparkling with jewelry which betrays her want of +modesty. She is of the true Andalusian type, olive complexion, +coal-black hair with eyes to match, and long dark lashes; petite in +figure and youthful, but aged in experience. Bonnetless, her luxuriant +hair is set high upon her head, held by a square tortoise-shell comb, +and carelessly thrown off her forehead with a parting on one side. Be +sure some sad story underlies her career. She is of just that gypsy +cast that painters love to delineate. They sit down at a side table +and order ices, cake, and champagne. These are consumed amid jests and +laughter, the spurious champagne, at a fabulous cost, is drunk +merrily, the hours creep on, and the couple retire to give place to +others, after having furnished a picture of the fast, false life of +these brilliant, but dissipated haunts. + +Some of these cafes are more exclusive than others, where respectable +ladies and gentlemen can retire after the band has ceased its +performance, and enjoy the cooling influence of an ice. The Louvre, +just opposite the Plaza de Isabella and adjoining the Tacon Theatre, +is one of such. These establishments couple with their current evening +business that of the manufacture of choice preserves for domestic use +and also for export, the fruits of the island supplying the basis for +nearly a hundred varieties of fruit preserves, which find large sales +in our Northern cities and in Europe. + +In carnival week these cafes do an immense business; it is the harvest +of their year. People who can hardly afford three meals a day pinch +themselves and suffer much self-denial that they may have money to +spend in carnival week. The public masquerade balls, which then take +place, allure all classes. The celebrations of the occasion culminate +in a grand public masquerade ball given in the Tacon Theatre. The +floor of the parquette is temporarily raised to a level with the +boxes and the stage, the entire floor or lower part of the house being +converted into a grand ball-room. The boxes and galleries are thrown +open free to the public. The music, furnished by two military bands, +alternating in their performance, is kept up until broad daylight, +while the participants come and go as they please. A little after +midnight an organization called the comparzas comes upon the scene. It +is composed of men, boys, and women, all masked, who have practiced +for the occasion some emblematic dance to perform for their own and +the public amusement. The other dancers give way and the new-comers +perform, in harlequin fashion, their allotted parts. Towards morning a +large paper globe is suspended from the ceiling and lowered to within +a certain height from the floor. Blindfolded volunteers of both sexes, +furnished with sticks, are permitted to walk towards and try to hit +it. Scores fail, others just graze the globe of paper, all amid loud +laughter from the spectators. Finally some one hits the globe full and +fair, bringing down the contents amid vociferous applause. Then +commences a general scramble for the contents, consisting of bonbons, +toys, and fancy trinkets. + +The celebrated Tacon Theatre faces the Paseo de Isabella, and is built +on the corner of San Rafael Street. It is a capacious structure, but +extremely plain and unimpressive in its exterior appearance. It has +five tiers of boxes and a spacious parquette, the latter furnished +with separate arm-chair seats for six hundred persons. The entire +seating capacity of the house is a trifle over three thousand, and the +auditorium is of the horseshoe shape. The lattice-work finish before +the boxes is very light and graceful in effect, ornamented with gilt, +and so open as to display the dresses and pretty feet of the fair +occupants to the best advantage. The frescos are in good style, and +the ornamentation, without being excessive, is in excellent and +harmonious taste. A large, magnificent glass chandelier, lighted with +gas, and numerous smaller ones extending from the boxes give a +brilliant light to this elegant house, which is one of the largest +theatres in the world. The scene is a remarkable one when tier upon +tier is filled with gayly dressed ladies, powdered and rouged as Cuban +women are apt to be, in the most liberal manner. The parquette is +reserved for gentlemen, and when the audience is assembled forms a +striking contrast to the rest of the house, as they always appear in +dark evening dress, and between the acts put on their tall black +beaver hats. These audiences have their own special modes of +exhibiting appreciation or applause, when captivated by a prima +donna's or a danseuse's efforts to please them. At favorable moments +during the performance the artist is showered with bouquets; white +doves are set free from the boxes, bearing laudatory verses fastened +to their wings; gentlemen throw their hats upon the stage, and +sometimes even purses weighted with gold. Tiny balloons are started +with long streamers of colored ribbon attached; jewelry in the shape +of bracelets and rings is conveyed over the footlights; in short, +these Spaniards are sometimes extraordinarily demonstrative. A furore +has sometimes cost these caballeros large sums of money. But we are +describing the past rather than the immediate present, for the +scarcity of pecuniary means has put an end to nearly all such +extravagances. The Havanese are peculiar in their tastes. While Miss +Adelaide Phillips was more than once the recipient of extravagant +favors on the Tacon Theatre stage, Jenny Lind did not pay her +professional expenses when she sang there. + +The military are always in attendance in large numbers at the theatre, +as at all public gatherings in Cuba, their only perceptible use being +to stare the ladies out of countenance and to obstruct the +passageways. In front of the main entrance to the theatre is an open +area decorated with tropical plants and trees, where a group of the +crimson hibiscus was observed, presenting a gorgeous effect of color. +The other places of amusement in Havana, of a dramatic character, are +the Payret Theatre, very large, seating twenty-five hundred; the +Albisu Theatre, and the Circo, Teatro de Jane, this latter combining a +theatre with a circus. + +As a place of amusement and instruction combined we should be remiss +not to mention the Casino of Havana. It is carried on by an organized +society formed on the basis of a club and has, we were told, over one +hundred members. The Casino occupies a fine building, fronting Obispo +Street, and close to the parks. It supports a free school for teaching +the English and French languages and drawing. After some fifteen years +of successful existence the society has become one of the institutions +of the metropolis. The halls and apartments are large, lofty, and very +finely furnished with all domestic conveniences except sleeping +accommodations. Here dramatic entertainments are frequently given, +mostly by amateurs, and generally for charitable purposes. The main +ball-room of the Casino is handsomely decorated and is the scene of +occasional masked balls, after the true Madrid style, where many an +intrigue is consummated which does not always end without bloodshed. +It is the favorite resort of all the high officials of Havana, who +have within their possible reach too few social entertainments not to +make the most of those presented at the Casino. During the carnival +season the ball-room of the establishment is said to present, in the +form of nightly masquerade balls, scenes which for gayety and +picturesqueness cannot be surpassed in Europe. + +Old Havana is certainly eclipsed by the really fine broad streets and +the palatial buildings which have sprung up outside of her ancient +limits. In point of picturesqueness the old town has precedence. Near +where the Indian Paseo and the Plaza de Isabella II. join each other, +a portion of the old wall which once surrounded the city is still to +be seen, with its crumbling bastions and ivy-grown debris. Sufficient +is left to show that the wall was a remarkably substantial one and an +efficient defense against the modes of attack prevalent when it was +built. The Indian Paseo commences opposite the Campo de Marte, and is +so called from the large marble fountain dedicated to that aboriginal +idea. This elaborate structure was executed in Italy at large expense. +Its principal figure is an Indian maiden, allegorical of Havana, +supporting a shield bearing the arms of the city. These paseos are +admirably ornamented on either side by a continuous line of laurel +trees whose thick foliage gives admirable shade. On either side of the +long central promenade the well-paved streets are broad and handsome, +being ornamented with high buildings of a domestic and public +character and of good architectural effect. The Matanzas & Havana +Railroad depot is situated just opposite one end of the Campo de +Marte, its freight yard extending also along the Paseo for an entire +block, detracing much from the fine effect of the broad street. The +trains and noisy engines being thus brought into the midst of the +dwellings and business centre of the city render it very +objectionable. The guests of the Telegrafo Hotel can bear testimony as +to the nuisance thus created, being awakened at all sorts of +unreasonable hours by the engine bell and steam whistle. + +The Botanical Garden is situated about a mile from the city proper, +adjoining which are the attractive grounds of the Governor General's +country-house. Both are open to the public and richly repay a visit. +The Governor's grounds are shaded by a great variety of tropical trees +and flowers. Here was seen what is called the water rose, pink in +color and nearly double the size of our pond lily, recalling the +Egyptian lotus, to which family it would seem it must belong. +Altogether, the place is a wilderness of blossoms, composed of exotic +and native flowers. There is also an interesting aviary to be seen +here, and a small artificial lake is covered with curious web-footed +birds and brilliant-feathered ducks. The gardens seem to be neglected, +but they are very lovely in their native luxuriance. Dead wood and +decaying leaves are always a concomitant of such gardens in the low +latitudes. If the roses and heliotropes are in full bloom, some other +flowering shrub alongside is taking its rest and looks rusty, so that +the whole garden is never in a glow of beauty at one time, as is the +case with us in June. The noble alley of palms, the great variety of +trees, blossoms, and shrubs, the music of the fountains, and the +tropical flavor permeating everything were all in the harmony of +languid beauty. The coral tree, that lovely freak of vegetation, was +in bloom, its small but graceful stem, seven or eight feet in height, +being topped above the gracefully pendent leaves with a bit of +vegetable coral of deepest red, and in the form of the sea growth from +which it takes its name. The star cactus was in full flower, the +scarlet buds starting out from the flat surface of the thick leaves +after a queer and original fashion. The bread-fruit tree, with its +large, melon-like product, hung heavy with the nourishing esculent. +The Carolina tree, with gorgeous blossoms like military pompons, +blazed here and there, overshadowing the large, pure white, and +beautiful campanile, with hanging flowers, like metallic bells, after +which the plant is named. Here too was a great variety of the scarlet +hibiscus and the garland of night (galan de noche), which grows like a +young palm to eight or nine feet, throwing out from the centre-of its +drooping foliage a cluster of brown blossoms tipped with white, shaped +like a mammoth bunch of grapes. It blooms at night and is fragrant +only by moon and starlight. Cuba presents an inexhaustible field for +the botanist, and in its wilder portions recalls the island of Ceylon +in the Indian Ocean. As Ceylon is called the pearl of India so is Cuba +the pearl of the Antilles. + +To reach the Governor's Garden one turns west from the Campo de Marte +and takes the Calzada de la Reina, which followed about a mile in a +straight line becomes the Paseo de Tacon, really but a continuation of +the former street, commencing at the statue of Carlos III., a colossal +monument placed in the middle of the broad driveway. This Paseo forms +the favorite evening drive of the citizens, where the ladies in +victorias and the gentlemen either as equestrians or on foot pass and +repass each other, gayly saluting, the ladies with a coquettish +flourish of the fan, and the gentlemen with a peculiar wave of the +hand. It is in fact the Champs Elysees of Havana, but the road is +sadly out of repair and as dusty as an ash-pit. + +The Alameda--every large Spanish city has a spot so designated--skirts +the shore of the harbor on the city side, near the south end of +Oficios Street, and is a favorite resort for promenaders at the +evening hour. Here a refreshing coolness is breathed from off the sea. +This Alameda de Paula might be a continuation of the Neapolitan +Chiaja. With characteristics quite different, still these shores +constantly remind one of the Mediterranean, Sorrento, Amalfi, and +Capri, recalling the shadows which daily creep up the heights of San +Elmo and disappear with the setting sun behind the orange groves. +Sometimes it would seem to be the grand problem of humanity, why the +loveliest regions of the earth and the softest climates should be +apportioned to the share of slaves and despots. + +The cathedral of Havana, on Empedrado Street, is a structure of much +interest, its rude pillared front of defaced and moss-grown stone +plainly telling of the wear of time. The two lofty towers are hung +with many bells, which daily call with their brazen tongues to matins +and vespers. Some of these bells are very ancient. The church is not +elaborately ornamented,--it rather strikes one with its unusual +plainness. It contains a few oil paintings of moderate merit, and also +the tomb where the ashes of Columbus so long reposed. All that is +visible of this tomb, which is on the right of the altar, is a marble +tablet six or eight feet square, upon which, in high relief, is a bust +of the great discoverer. As a work of art, the less said of this +effigy the better. Beneath the image is an inscription sufficiently +bombastic and Spanish in tone, but therein we observed no mention was +made of the chains and imprisonment with which an ungrateful country +rewarded this man whom history so delights to honor. It will be +remembered that Columbus died at Valladolid in 1506. In 1513 his +remains were transferred to Seville, preparatory to their being sent, +as desired in his will, to St. Domingo, to which city they were +removed in 1536. When that island was ceded to France, they were +brought with great pomp to Havana in a national ship (January 15, +1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high +authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and +are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this +association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet +thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty +dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The +high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry +mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The +stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was +annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was +observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend +in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population +present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from +curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de +la Concepcion. + +All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains +the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have +seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that +this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up +into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive +view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before +a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here +in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the +practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call +your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions: +one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another +is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these +bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has +caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a +danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a +victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as +merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many +years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to +vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such +things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the +sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for +priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgetting many saintly +garments wrought in gold and studded with precious stones. Perhaps you +will think, as we did, that such things are but tinsel before Him whom +they are supposed to honor. Such dazzling paraphernalia may attract +the ignorant or the thoughtless--may make followers, but not +converts. Conviction is not the child of fancy, but of judgment. + +In an anteroom at the left of the altar there are also to be seen +utensils of silver and gold, with many costly ornaments for use before +the altar on special church occasions. One of these is a triumph of +delicate workmanship and of the silversmith's art. It is in the form +of a Gothic tower of very elaborate and artistic design, composed of +solid silver, ornamented with gold and precious stones. One regards +this thoroughly useless disposal of money with the thought that the +articles were better sold and the proceeds bestowed in worthy charity. +It would then fulfill a far more Christian purpose than that of adding +glitter to church pomp and ceremony. + +To witness the observance of Holy Week, commencing with Palm Sunday, +in Havana, one would be impressed with a conviction that the people +were at heart devout Roman Catholics. The occasion is solemnly +observed. On Sunday the old cathedral is crowded by people who come to +obtain branches of holy palm from the priests. The old bell-ringer +becomes an important agent of the ceremonies, and the solemn spirit of +the occasion seems to imbue all classes of the Havanese. On Holy +Thursday, just before midday, the bells of all the churches cease to +ring, and every vehicle in the city disappears from the streets as if +by magic. The garrison marches through the principal thoroughfares in +silence, with measured tread and arms reversed. The national flags +upon the shipping, and on all the forts from Moro to the Castillo del +Principe, are displayed at half mast. The cathedral and the churches +are draped in mourning. On Friday, the effigy of our Saviour's body +is carried in solemn procession, men and priests marching with heads +uncovered, and devout women of the common classes, especially colored +ones, kneeling in the street as it passes. On Saturday, at ten o'clock +in the morning, the old bell-ringer suddenly starts a merry peal from +the cathedral tower--the bells of La Merced, San Agustin, Santa Clara, +and Santa Cataline follow; the town awakens to gayety as from a +lethargic sleep. Whites and negroes rush through the streets like mad; +vehicles of all sorts again make their appearance, the forts and +national ships are dressed in holiday flags, and the town is shaken +with reiterated salutes from a hundred cannons. + +Military mass, as performed within the cathedral, seemed more like a +theatrical show than a solemn religious service. On the occasion +referred to, the congregation as usual was sparse, and consisted +almost exclusively of women, who seem to do penance for both sexes in +Cuba. The military band which led the column of infantry marched in, +playing a quick operatic air, deploying to one side for the soldiery +to pass towards the altar. The time-keeping steps of the soldiery upon +the marble floor mingled with drum, fife, and organ. Through all this, +one caught now and then the monotonous voice of a shaven-headed +priest, reciting his prescribed part at the altar, kneeling and +reading at intervals. The busy censer boys in white gowns; the flaring +candles casting long shadows athwart the high altar; the files of +soldiers kneeling and rising at the tap of the drum; the atmosphere +clouded with the fumes of burning incense,--all combined to make up a +singularly dramatic picture. The gross mummery witnessed at the temple +of Buddha in Ceylon differed only in form, scarcely in degree. + +The wealth of the churches of the monks in the island was formerly +proverbial, but of late the rich perquisites which the priests were so +long permitted to extort from the credulous public have been diverted +so as to flow into the coffers of the crown. A military depotism +brooks no rival in authority. The priests at one time possessed large +tracts of land in Cuba, and their revenue therefrom, especially when +they were improved as sugar plantations, was very large. These lands +have all been confiscated by the government, and with the loss of +their property the power of the monks has declined and their numbers +have also diminished. Still the liberty of public worship is denied to +all save Roman Catholics. Since the suppression of monastic +institutions, some of the convents have been utilized for hospitals, +government storehouses, and other public offices in Havana. There are +some manifest incongruities that suggest themselves as existing +between Church and state upon the island. For instance, the Church +recognizes the unity of all races and even permits marriage between +all, but here steps in the civil law of Cuba and prohibits marriage +between white persons and those having any taint of negro blood. In +consequence of this,--nature always asserting herself regardless of +conventionalities,--a quasi family arrangement often exists between +white men and mulatto or quadroon women, whereby the children are +recognized as legitimate. But should either party come under the +discipline of the Church, the relationship must terminate. Again, as +is perfectly well known, many of the priests, under a thin disguise, +lead domestic lives, where a family of children exist under the care +of a single mother, who is debarred from the honest name of wife by +the laws of celibacy which are stringently held as the inexorable +rule of the Church. + +If the priesthood keep from cock-fighting and gambling, says a late +writer on the subject, notwithstanding many other departures from +propriety, they are considered respectable. Can there be any wonder +that the masses of men in Cuba recognize no religious obligations, +since none save Roman Catholicism is tolerated, and that, through its +priesthood, is so disgraced? + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Political Inquisition. -- Fashionable Streets of the City. -- + Tradesmen's Signs. -- Bankrupt Condition of Traders. -- The + Spanish Array. -- Exiled Patriots. -- Arrival of Recruits. -- + The Garrote. -- A Military Execution. -- Cuban Milk Dealers. + -- Exposure of Domestic Life. -- Living in the Open Air. -- + The Campo Santo of Havana. -- A Funeral Cortege. -- Punishing + Slaves. -- Campo de Marte. -- Hotel Telegrafo. -- Environs of + the City. -- Bishop's Garden. -- Consul-General Williams. -- + Mineral Springs. + + +The Inquisition, as it regards the Church of Rome, is suppressed in +Cuba, but the political inquisition, as exercised by the government on +the island, is even more diabolical than that of the former Jesuitical +organization, because it is more secret in its murderous deeds, not +one half of the horrors of which will ever be publicly known. Moro +Castle is full of political prisoners, who are thinned out by +executions, starvation, and hardships generally, from day to day, only +to make room for fresh victims. He who enters those grim portals +leaves all hope behind. Political trials there are none, but of +political arrests there are endless numbers. The life of every citizen +is at the disposal of the Captain-General. If a respectable person is +arrested, as one suspected of animosity towards the government, he +simply disappears. His friends dare not press his defense, or inquire +too closely as to his case, lest they, too, should be incarcerated on +suspicion, never again to regain their liberty. A maxim of Spanish law +is that every accused person is guilty, until he proves himself +innocent! As a large majority of the people, in their hearts, +sympathize with the revolutionists, and are revolutionists in secret, +they are liable to say or to do some trifling thing unwittingly, upon +which the lynx-eyed officials seize as evidence of guilt, and their +arrest follows. What fearful stories the dungeons of Moro could reveal +had they tongue with which to speak! + +Obispo and O'Riley streets are the principal shopping thoroughfares of +the metropolis, containing many fine stores for the sale of dry goods, +millinery, china, glassware, and jewelry. These shops are generally +quite open in front. Standing at the end, and looking along either of +these thoroughfares, one gets a curious perspective view. The +party-colored awnings often stretch entirely across the narrow +streets, reminding one of a similar effect in Canton, where straw +matting takes the place of canvas, forming a sort of open marquee. The +queer names adopted for the stores never fail to afford a theme of +amusement; the drawling cries of the fruit-dealers and peripatetic +tradesmen giving an added interest. The merchant in Havana does not +designate his establishment by placing his own name upon his sign, but +adopts some fancy title, such as Diana, America, The Star, Virtue, The +Golden Lion, and so on, which titles are paraded in gilt letters over +the door. The Spanish people are always prodigal in names, making the +sun, moon and stars, gods and goddesses, all do duty in designating +their stores, villas, and plantations. Nearly every town on the island +is named after some apostle or saint. The tradesmen are thorough Jews +in their style of dealing with the public, and no one thinks of paying +them the price which they first demand for an article. It is their +practice in naming a price to make allowance for reduction; they +expect to be bargained with, or cheapened at least one half. The +ladies commonly make their purchases late in the afternoon or evening, +stopping in their victorias at the doors of the shops, from whence the +articles they desire are brought by the shopmen and deftly displayed +on the street. When lighted up at night the stores are really +brilliant and attractive, presenting quite a holiday appearance; but +customers are sadly wanting in these days of business depression. "I +have been compelled to dismiss my salesmen and do their work myself," +said a dry-goods merchant to us; "we dare not give credit, and few +persons have cash to spare in these times." + +One of the principal causes of the present bankrupt condition of the +people of Cuba is the critical period of transition through which the +island is passing from slave to free labor; besides which there is the +exhaustion consequent upon years of civil war and a succession of bad +crops. Labor is becoming dearer and sugar cheaper. The Spaniards are +slow to adopt labor-saving machinery, or new ideas of any sort, and +those not already supplied have neither capital nor credit with which +to procure the new machinery for sugar-making. The enormous production +of European beet-sugar has cut off all Continental demand for their +staple, and has in some degree superseded its use in America. +Brigandage is on the increase, as poverty and want of legitimate +employment prevail. Money, when it can be borrowed at all, is at a +ruinous interest. The army of office-holders still manage to extort +considerable sums in the aggregate from the people, under the guise of +necessary taxes. Financial ruin stares all in the face. It is a sad +thing to say, but only too true, that among people heretofore +considered above suspicion in commercial transactions great dishonesty +prevails, pecuniary distress and lack of credit driving men, once in +good standing, to defraud their creditors at home and abroad. Estates +and plantations are not only heavily mortgaged, but the prospective +crops are in the same condition, in many cases. In former prosperous +years the planters have been lavish spenders of money, ever ready to +use their credit to the full extent, until their interest account has +consumed their principal. The expensive habits acquired under the +promptings of large profits and a sure market are difficult to +overcome, and people who never anticipated the present state of +affairs are now forced to exercise economy and self-denial. Cuban +planters and their families, in years past, came to our most +fashionable watering-places decked with jewels of almost fabulous +value, and they lavished gold like water; most of these individuals +considered themselves to be rich beyond the chances of fortune. Their +profuse style of living was a source of envy; their liberality to +landlords and to servants was demoralizing, as it regarded the tariff +of hotel prices for more steady-going people. Thousands of human +beings were yielding their enforced labor to fill these spendthrifts' +purses, and sugar was king. The picture has its reverse. Civil war has +supervened, the slaves are being freed, sugar is no longer a bonanza, +and the rich man of yesterday is the bankrupt of to-day. Truly riches +have wings. + +Spain keeps a large and effective force of soldiers upon the +island,--an army out of all proportion in numbers to the territory or +people she holds in subjection. The present military force must +number some forty thousand, rank and file, and the civil department +fully equals the army in number; and all are home Spaniards. A large +portion of the military are kept in the eastern department of the +island, which is and has ever been the locality where revolutionary +outbreaks occur. Eighty per cent, of all the soldiers ever sent to +Cuba have perished there! It is as Castelar once pronounced the island +to be, in the Cortes at Madrid, namely, the Campo Santo of the Spanish +army. Exposure, a miserable commissariat, the climate, and insurgent +bullets combine to thin the ranks of the army like a raging +pestilence. We were informed by a responsible party that twenty-five +per cent, of the newly-arrived soldiers died in their first year, +during what is called their acclimation. Foreigners who visit Cuba for +business or pleasure do so at the most favorable season; they are not +subjected to hardships nor exposed in malarial districts. The +soldiers, on the contrary, are sent indiscriminately into the fever +districts at the worst season, besides being called upon to endure +hardships, all the time, which predispose them to fatal diseases. + +There are known to be organized juntas of revolutionists at Key West, +Florida, in Hayti, and also in New York city, whose designs upon the +Cuban government keep the authorities on the island in a state of +chronic alarm. A revolutionary spirit is felt to be all the while +smouldering in the hearts of this oppressed people, and hence the +tyrannous espionage, and the cruelty exercised towards suspected +persons. So enormous are the expenses, military and civil, which are +required to sustain the government, under these circumstances, that +Cuba to-day, notwithstanding the heavy taxes extorted from her +populace, is an annual expense to the throne. Formerly the snug sum of +seven or eight millions of dollars was the yearly contribution which +the island made to the royal treasury, after paying local army, navy, +and civil expenses. This handsome sum was over and above the pickings +and stealings of the venal officials. As to the Cuban sympathizers at +Key West, Florida, a recent visit to that port, just opposite to the +island on the hither side of the Gulf Stream, showed us that they +formed a large proportion of the population of that thrifty American +town. On a day which was the anniversary of some patriotic occasion +relating to the island, hundreds of Cuban flags (the single star of +free Cuba) were seen displayed upon the dwellings and public places. +There are believed to be two thousand Creoles residing here, who have +either been expelled from the island for political reasons, or who +have escaped from thence as suspected patriots. These people are very +generally engaged in the manufacture of the well-known Key West +cigars. + +The Spanish army is governed with an iron hand. Military law knows no +mercy, and it is always more or less a lapse into barbarism where it +takes precedence. The ranks are filled by conscription in Spain, and +when the men first arrive at Havana they are the rawest recruits +imaginable. Soldiers who have been doing garrison duty are sent inland +to fill the decimated ranks of various stations, and room is thus made +for the recruits, who are at once put to work, enduring a course of +severe discipline and drill. They land from the transports, many of +them, hatless, barefooted, and in a filthy condition, with scarcely a +whole garment among a regiment of them. The writer could hardly +believe, on witnessing the scene, that they were not a set of +criminals being transported for penal servitude. Fatigue dresses no +doubt awaited them at the barracks, and after a while they would be +served with a cheap uniform, coarse shoes, and straw hats. They are +like sheep being driven to the shambles, and are quite as helpless. +Twenty-five per cent, and upwards of these recruits are usually under +the sod before the close of a twelve-month! + +Sometimes the hardship they have to endure breeds rebellion among +them, but woe betide those who commit any overt act, or become leaders +of any organized attempt to obtain justice. The service requires +frequent victims as examples to enforce the rigid discipline. The +punishment by the garrote is a common resort. It is a machine +contrived to choke the victim to death without suspending him in the +air. At the same time it is fatal in another way, namely, by severing +the spinal column just below its connection with the brain. The +condemned man is placed upon a chair fixed on a platform, leaning his +head and neck back into a sort of iron yoke or frame prepared to +receive it. Here an iron collar is clasped about the throat. At the +appointed moment a screw is suddenly turned by the executioner, +stationed behind the condemned, and instantaneous death follows. This +would seem to be more merciful than hanging, whereby death is produced +by the lingering process of suffocation, to say nothing of the many +mishaps which so often occur upon the gallows. This mode of punishment +is looked upon by the army as a disgrace, and they much prefer the +legitimate death of a soldier, which is to fall by the bullets of his +comrades when condemned to die. + +The writer witnessed one of these military executions, early on a +clear April morning, which took place in the rear of the barracks near +La Punta. It was a trying experience, and recalled to mind the +execution of the mulatto poet and patriot, Valdez, which had occurred +a few years before in the Plaza at Matanzas. It was a sight to chill +the blood even under a tropical sun. A soldier of the line was to be +shot for some act of insubordination against the stringent rules of +the army, and that the punishment might prove a forcible example to +his comrades the battalion to which he belonged was drawn up on parade +to witness the cruel scene. The immediate file of twelve men to which +the victim had belonged were supplied with muskets by their officer, +and we were told that, according to custom, one musket was left +without ball, so that each one might hope that his was not the hand to +slay his former comrade. A sense of mercy would still lead them all to +aim faithfully, so that lingering pain might be avoided. + +The order was given: the bright morning sun shone like living fire +along the polished barrels of the guns, as the fatal muzzles all +ranged in point at the body of the condemned. "Fire!" said the +commanding officer. A quick, rattling report followed, accompanied by +a thin cloud of smoke, which was at once dispersed by the sea breeze, +showing the still upright form of the victim. Though wounded in many +places, no vital spot had been touched, nor did he fall until the +sergeant, at a sign from his officer, advanced with a reserved musket, +and quickly blew out his brains! His body was removed. The troops were +formed into column, the band struck up a lively air, and thus was a +human being launched into eternity. + +Few current matters strike the stranger as being more peculiar than +the Cuban milkman's mode of supplying the required aliment to his town +customers. He has no cart bearing shining cans, they in turn filled +with milk, or with what purports to be milk; his mode is direct, and +admits of no question as to purity. Driving his sober kine from door +to door, he deliberately milks then and there just the quantity +required by each customer, delivers it, and drives on to the next. The +patient animal becomes as familiar with the residences of her master's +customers as he is himself, and stops unbidden, at regular intervals, +before the proper doors, often followed by a pretty little calf, which +amuses itself by gazing enviously at the process, being prevented from +interfering by a leather muzzle. Sometimes the flow of milk is checked +by an effort of the animal herself, when she seems to realize that the +calf is not getting its share of nourishment. The driver then promptly +brings the calf to the mother's side, and removes the muzzle long +enough to give the little one a brief chance. The cow freely yields +her milk while the calf is close to her, and the milkman, muzzling the +calf, adroitly milks into his measure. The same mode is adopted in +India and the south of Spain. There are at least two good reasons for +delivering milk in hot climates after this fashion. First, there can +be no adulteration of the article; and second, it is sure to be fresh +and sweet. This last is a special desideratum in a climate where ice +is an expensive luxury, and the difficulty of keeping milk from +becoming acid is very great. The effect upon the cow is by no means +salutary, causing the animal to produce much less in quantity than +when milked clean at regularly fixed hours, as with us. Goats are +often driven about for the same purpose and used in the same manner. +It was a surprise not to see more of these animals in Cuba, a country +especially adapted to them. Cows thrive best upon grass, of which +there is comparatively little in the tropics,--vegetation runs to +larger development; but goats eat anything green, and do well nearly +anywhere. It is a singular fact that sheep transported to this climate +cease gradually to produce wool. After three or four generations they +grow only a simple covering, more like hair than wool, and resemble +goats rather than sheep. + +Glass is scarcely known in Cuban windows; the glazier has yet to make +his debut in Havana. The most pretentious as well as the humblest of +the town-houses have the broad, high, projecting window, reaching from +floor to ceiling, secured only by heavy horizontal iron bars, +prison-like in effect, through which, as one passes along the narrow +streets, it is nearly impossible to avoid glancing in upon domestic +scenes that frequently exhibit the female portion of the family en +deshabille. Sometimes a loose lace curtain intervenes, but even this +is unusual, the freest circulation of fresh air being quite necessary. +The eye penetrates the whole interior of domestic life, as at Yokohama +or Tokio. Indeed, the manners of the female occupants seem to court +this attention from without, coming freely as they do to the windows +to chat with passers-by. Once inside of these dwelling-houses there +are no doors, curtains alone shutting off the communication between +chambers, sitting-rooms, and corridors. These curtains, when not +looped up, are sufficient to keep out persons of the household or +strangers, it being the custom always to speak, in place of knocking, +before passing a curtain; but the little naked negro children, male +and female, creep under these curtains without restraint, while +parrots, pigeons, and fowls generally make common use of all nooks and +corners of the house. Doors might keep these out of one's room, but +curtains do not. The division walls between the apartments in private +houses, like those in the hotels, often reach but two thirds of the +way up to the walls, thus affording free circulation of air, but +rendering privacy impossible. One reason why the Cubans all possess +such broad expanded chests is doubtless owing to the fact that their +lungs find free action at all times. They live, as it were, in the +open air. The effect of this upon strangers is seen and felt, +producing a sense of physical exhilaration, fine spirits, and a good +appetite. It would be impossible to live in a dwelling-house built in +our close, secure style, if it were placed in the city of Havana. The +laundress takes possession of the roof of the house during the day, +but it is the place of social gathering at night, when the family and +their guests enjoy the sea-breeze which sweeps in from the Gulf of +Mexico. On a clear, bright moonlight night the effect is very striking +as one looks across the house-tops, nearly all being upon a level. +Many cheerful circles are gathered here and there, some dancing to the +notes of a guitar, some singing, and others engaged in quiet games. +Merry peals of laughter come from one direction and another, telling +of light and thoughtless hearts among the family groups. Occasionally +there is borne along the range of roofs the swelling but distant +strains of the military band playing in the Plaza de Isabella, while +the moon looks calmly down from a sky whose intensely blue vault is +only broken by stars. + +The cemetery, or Campo Santo, of Havana is situated about three miles +outside of the city. A high wall incloses the grounds, in which +oven-like niches are prepared for the reception of the coffins +containing the bodies of the wealthy residents, while the poor are +thrown into shallow graves, often several bodies together in a long +trench, negroes and whites, without a coffin of any sort. Upon them is +thrown quicklime to promote rapid decomposition. The cremation which +forms the mode of disposing of the bodies of the deceased as practiced +in India is far less objectionable. + +The funeral cortege is unique in Havana. The hearse, drawn by four +black horses, is gilded and decked like a car of Juggernaut, and +driven by a flunkey in a cocked hat covered with gold braid, a scarlet +coat alive with brass buttons and gilt ornaments, and top boots which, +as he sits, reach half-way to his chin. This individual flourishes a +whip like a fishing-pole, and is evidently very proud of his position. +Beside the hearse walk six hired mourners on either side, dressed in +black, with cocked hats and swallow-tail coats. Fifteen or twenty +victorias follow, containing only male mourners. The driver in +scarlet, the twelve swallow-tails in black, and the occupants of the +victorias each and all are smoking cigars as though their lives +depended upon the successful operation. And so the cortege files into +the Campo Santo. + +Not far from La Punta there is a structure, protected from the public +gaze by a high wall, where the slaves of either sex belonging to the +citizens of Havana are brought for punishment. Within are a series of +whipping-posts, to which these poor creatures are bound before +applying the lash to their bare bodies. The sight of this fiendish +procedure is cut off from the public, but more than one person has +told us of having heard the agonizing cries of the victims. And yet +there are people who will tell us these poor creatures are far better +off than when in their native country. One slave-owner said it was +necessary to make an example of some member of all large households of +slaves each month, in order to keep them under discipline! Another +said, "I never whip my slaves; it may be necessary upon a plantation, +but not in domestic circles in town. When they have incurred my +displeasure, they are deprived of some small creature comfort, or +denied certain liberties, which punishment seems to answer every +object." So it will be seen that all slave-holders are not cruel. Some +seem as judicious and reasonable as is possible under the miserable +system of slavery. + +Opposite the Indian Paseo, General Tacon, during his governorship of +the island, constructed a broad camp-ground for military parades in +what is now becoming the heart of the city, though outside the limits +of the old city walls. He called it the Campo de Marte, and surrounded +the whole space, ten acres, more or less, with a high ornamental iron +fence. It is in form a perfect square, and on each of the four sides +was placed a broad, pretentious gateway, flanked by heavy square +pillars. That on the west side he named Puerta de Colon; on the north, +Puerta de Cortes; on the south, Puerta de Pizarro; and on the east +side, facing the city, he gave the gate the name of Puerta de Tacon. +His administration has been more praised and more censured than that +of any of his predecessors since the days of Velasquez. This Campo de +Marte, which, as stated, was originally intended for military purposes +generally, is now converted into a public park, laid out with spacious +walks, fountains, handsome trees, and carriage-ways. The gates have +been removed, and the whole place thrown open as a thoroughfare and +pleasure-ground. + +Speaking of this open square brings us to the subject of hotels in +Havana, and as we have so often been questioned upon this subject, +doubtless a few words upon the matter will interest the general +reader. We made our temporary home for nearly a month at the Hotel +Telegrafo, but why it is so called we do not know. It is considered to +be one of the best in the city, and is centrally situated, being +opposite to the Campo de Marte. There was a chief clerk who spoke +English, and another who spoke French, and two guides who possessed +the same facilities. The price of board was from four to five dollars +per day, including meals and service. The rooms were very small, table +fair, plenty of fruits and preserves, but the meats were poor. Fish +was always fresh and good in Havana. Coffee and tea were poor. If one +desires to procure good coffee, as a rule, look for it anywhere rather +than in countries where it is grown. Cleanliness was not considered as +being an indispensable virtue in the Telegrafo. Drainage received but +little attention, and the domestic offices of the house were seriously +offensive. The yellow fever does not prevail in Havana except in +summer, say from May to October; but according to recognized sanitary +rules it should rage there every month in the year. The hotels in +peninsular Spain are dirty enough to disgust any one, but those of +Havana are a degree worse in this respect. Any of our readers who +have chanced in their travels upon the Fonda de Rafaela, for +instance, at Burgos, in Spain, will understand us fully. It was of no +use to remove elsewhere; after examining the other hotels it was +thought best to remain at the Telegrafo, on the principle adopted by +the Irishman, who, though not inclined to believe in Purgatory, yet +accepted this item of faith lest he should go further and fare worse. +There is the San Carlos Hotel, near the wharves, which is more of a +family than a travelers' resort; the Hotel Pasaje, in Prado Street, +quite central; Hotel Europe, in La Plaza de San Francisco; and Hotels +Central and Ingleterra: the last two are opposite the Plaza de +Isabella, and are in the midst of noise and gayety. Arrangements can +be made at any of these houses for board by the day, or on the +European plan; all have restaurants. + +There are some very attractive summer resorts in the environs of the +city, one of the nearest and prettiest of which is El Cerro (the +hill), one league from town. It has a number of remarkably pleasant +country-seats, some of which have extensive gardens, rivaling that of +the Captain-General in extent. But to reach Cerro one has to drive +over a road which is in such want of repair as to be dangerous, +gullied by the rains, and exhibiting holes two feet deep, liable to +break the horses' legs and the wheels of the vehicles. Here is a road, +close to Havana, with stones weighing hundreds of pounds on the +surface, in the very wheel-tracks. Handsome hedges of the wild pine, +the aloe, and the Spanish bayonet line the road, where an occasional +royal palm, the emblem of majesty, stands alone, adding grandeur to +all the surroundings. If you drive out to Cerro, put on a linen +duster; otherwise you will be likely to come back looking like a +miller's apprentice. Not far beyond Cerro there lies some beautiful +country, reached by the same miserable road. Puentes Grandes, a small +village near the falls of the Almendares River, is but two miles +further north than Cerro, and adjoining this place, a couple of miles +further, is a small, picturesque village called Ceiba, from the +abundance of that species of tree which once flourished there. These +two places have some interesting country residences, where the +wealthiest citizens of Havana spend their summers. The village of +Quemados is also in this immediate neighborhood, about a couple of +leagues from town; here is situated the Havana Hippodrome, where +horse-races take place in the winter season. We must not forget to +mention Vedado, on the seashore, whither the Havanese drive oftenest +on Sundays; it is also connected with the city by steam-cars and +omnibus. There are some fine villas here, and it is quite a Cuban +watering-place, affording excellent bathing facilities. Vedado has +wide streets, and, after the city, seems to be remarkably clean and +neat. + +The Bishop's Garden, so called because some half century since it was +the residence of the Bishop of Havana, is about four miles from the +city, on the line of the Marianao railroad. It must have been a +delightful place when in its prime and properly cared for; even now, +in its ruins, it is extremely interesting. There are a score, more or +less, of broken, moss-grown statues, stone balustrades, and stone +capitals lying among the luxuriant vegetation, indicating what was +once here. Its alleys of palms, over two hundred years in age, the +thrifty almond-trees, and the gaudy-colored pinons, with their +honeysuckle-like bloom, delight the eye. The flamboyant absolutely +blazed in its gorgeous flowers, like ruddy flames, all over the +grounds. The remarkable fan-palm spread out its branches like a +peacock's tail, screening vistas here and there. Through these grounds +flows a small swift stream, which has its rise in the mountains some +miles inland, its bright and sparkling waters imparting an added +beauty to the place. By simple irrigating means this stream is made to +fertilize a considerable tract of land used as vegetable gardens, +lying between Tulipan and Havana. The Bishop's Garden still contains +large stone basins for swimming purposes, cascades, fountains, and +miniature lakes, all rendered possible by means of this small, clear, +deep river. The neglected place is sadly suggestive of decay, with its +moss-covered paths, tangled undergrowth, and untrimmed foliage. +Nothing, however, can mar the glory of the grand immemorial palms. + +The town of Tulipan, in which is the Bishop's Garden, is formed of +neat and pleasant residences of citizens desiring to escape the bustle +and closeness of the city. The houses are half European or American in +their architecture, modified to suit the climate. Here the American +Consul-General has a delightfully chosen home, surrounded by pleasant +shade, and characterized by lofty, cool apartments; with bright, snowy +marble floors, plenty of space, and perfect ventilation. Mr. Williams +is a gentleman unusually well fitted for the responsible position he +fills, having been a resident of Cuba for many years, and speaking the +language like a native. In his intensely patriotic sentiments he is a +typical American. It is not out of place for us to acknowledge here +our indebtedness to him for much important information relating to +the island. + +The most celebrated mineral springs in Cuba are to be found at San +Diego, where there are hot sulphur waters, springs bubbling +ceaselessly from the earth, and for which great virtues are claimed. +The springs are situated west of Havana, between thirty and forty +leagues, at the base of the southern slope of the mountains. These +waters are freely drank, as well as bathed in, and are highly charged +with sulphureted hydrogen, and contain sulphate of lime and carbonate +of magnesia. There are some diseases of women for which the San Diego +waters are considered to be a specific, and remarkable cures are +authenticated. Rheumatism and skin diseases are specially treated by +the local physician. There is a very fair hotel at San Diego, located +near the baths, and many Americans speak warmly in praise of the place +as a health resort. + +Next to the springs of San Diego, those of Madruga are notable, +situated between Matanzas and Havana, and which can be reached by +rail. The character of these springs is very similar to those of San +Diego, though of lower temperature. They are used both for bathing and +for drinking. Madruga is more easily accessible from the metropolis +than is San Diego. There is also a good physician resident in the +village. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + The Fish-Market of Havana. -- The Dying Dolphin. -- Tax upon + the Trade. -- Extraordinary Monopoly. -- Harbor Boats. -- A + Story about Marti, the Ex-Smuggler. -- King of the Isle of + Pines. -- The Offered Reward. -- Sentinels in the Plaza de + Armas. -- The Governor General and the Intruder. -- "I am + Captain Marti!" -- The Betrayal. -- The Ex-Smuggler as Pilot. + -- The Pardon and the Reward. -- Tacon's Stewardship and + Official Career. -- Monopoly of Theatricals. -- A Negro + Festival. + + +The fish-market of Havana doubtless affords the best variety and +quality of this article to be found in any city of the world, not even +excepting Madras and Bombay, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of +Bengal enter into rivalry with each other as to their products. The +scientist Poey gives a list of six hundred species of fishes +indigenous to the shores of Cuba. The supply of the city is not only +procured from the neighboring waters, but fishermen come regularly a +distance of over a hundred miles to the ports of the island, from +Florida and Yucatan, with their small cutters well loaded. It was +through the means afforded by these fishing crafts that communication +was kept up between the Cuban patriots at Key West and their friends +on the island, and no doubt smuggling was also carried on by them, +until they came under the strict surveillance of the revenue officers. + +The long marble counter of the Marti fish-market, at the end of +Mercaderes Street, affords a display of the finny tribe which we have +never seen equaled elsewhere. Every hue and combination of iris +colors is represented, while the variety and oddity of shapes is +ludicrous. Even fishing on the coast and the sale of the article are +virtually government monopolies; indeed, everything is taxed and +double taxed in Cuba; the air one breathes would be, could it be +measured. Fish are brought into this market, as at many other tropical +ports, alive, being preserved in wells of salt water which also act as +ballast for the fishing vessels. One morning, among others brought to +the Marti market a dolphin was observed, but as it is not a fish much +used for the table why it came hither was not so clear to us. Being +curious as to the accuracy of the poetical simile of changing colors +which characterize its dying hours, the just landed dolphin was +closely watched. The varying and multiform hues were clearly exhibited +by the expiring fish. First its skin presented a golden shade, as if +reflecting the sun, this changing gradually into a light purple. +Presently the body became silvery white, followed slowly by +alternating hues of pearl and yellow, and finally death left it of a +dull, lustreless gray. + +The market is about two hundred feet long, with one broad marble table +extending from end to end. The roof is supported by a series of arches +resting upon pillars. One side is entirely open to the street, thus +insuring good ventilation. It is not far from the cathedral, and in +the vicinity of the shore, but is in some measure superseded by the +large central Mercado de Tacon in the Calzada de la Reina, one block +from the Campo de Marte. In this latter market we saw shark's flesh +sold for food and freely bought by the negroes and Chinese coolies. + +The monopoly granted in Tacon's time to the famous smuggler whose name +the fish-market on Mercaderes Street still bears has reverted to the +government, which requires every fisherman, like every cab driver, to +pay a heavy tax for the privilege of following his calling. The +boatman who pulls an oar in the harbor for hire is obliged to pay the +government for the simple privilege. A writer in a popular magazine +lately compared these harbor boats of Havana to Venetian gondolas; but +even poetical license will not admit of this. They do, however, almost +precisely resemble the thousand and one boats which besprinkle the +Pearl River at Canton, being of the same shape, and covered in the +stern by a similar arched frame and canvas, the Chinese substituting +for this latter the universal matting. The Havana boatmen have so long +suffered from the extortion of the Spanish officials that they have +learned the trick of it, and practice the same upon travelers who make +no bargain with them before entering their tiny vessels. + +The fish monopoly referred to was established under the governorship +of Tacon, and is of peculiar origin. We cannot do better, perhaps, by +way of illustrating his arbitrary rule, than to relate for the +reader's benefit the story of its inauguration and enforcement. + +One of the most successful rogues whose history is connected with that +of modern Cuba was one Marti, who during his life was a prominent +individual upon a limited stage of action. He first became known as a +notorious and successful smuggler on the coast of the island, a daring +and reckless leader of desperate men. At one time he bore the +pretentious title of King of the Isle of Pines, where he maintained a +fortified position, more secure in its inaccessibility than for any +other reason. From hence Marti dispatched his small fleet of cutters +to operate between Key West and the southern coast of Cuba, sometimes +extending his trips to Charleston, Savannah, and even to New Orleans. +With the duty at ten dollars a barrel on American flour legitimately +imported into the island, it was a paying business to smuggle even +that prosaic but necessary article from one country to the other, and +to transport it inland for consumption. By this business Marti is said +to have amassed a large amount of money. He is described as having +been a tall, dark man of mixed descent, Spanish, Creole, and mulatto. +His great physical strength and brute courage are supposed to have +given him precedence among his associates, added to which he possessed +a large share of native shrewdness, cunning, and business tact. His +masquerading capacity, if we may believe the current stories told of +him, was very remarkable, enabling him to assume almost any disguise +and to effectually carry it out, so as to go safely among his enemies +or the government officials and gain whatever intelligence he desired. +Little authentic information can be had of such a man, and one depends +upon common report only in making up a sketch of his career; but he is +known to have been one of the last of the Caribbean rovers, finally +turning his attention to smuggling as being both the safer and more +profitable occupation. The southern coast of Cuba is so formed as to +be peculiarly adapted to the business of the contrabandists, who even +to-day carry on this adventurous game with more or less impunity, +being stimulated by the excessive and unreasonable excise duties +imposed upon the necessities of life. + +When Tacon first arrived in the colony he found the revenue laws in a +very lax condition. Smuggling was connived at by the venal +authorities, and the laws, which were so stringent in the letter, were +practically null and void. It is said that Marti could land a +contraband cargo, at that time, on the Regla side of Havana harbor in +broad daylight without fear of molestation. The internal affairs of +the island were also in a most confused condition; assassinations even +in the streets of Havana were frequent, and brigandage was carried on +in the near environs of the city. The Governor seemed actuated by a +determination to reform these outrages, and set himself seriously +about the business. He found that the Spanish vessels of the navy sent +hither to sustain the laws lay idly in port, the officers passing +their time in search of amusement on shore, or in giving balls and +dances on board their ships. Tacon saw that one of the very first +moves essential to be made was to suppress the wholesale system of +smuggling upon the coast. The heretofore idle navy became infused with +life and was promptly detailed upon this service, coasting night and +day along the shore from Cape Antonio to the Point of Maysi, but to +little or no good effect. A few captures were made, but the result was +only to cause a greater degree of caution on the part of the +contrabandists. In vain were all the measures taken by the officials. +The smuggling was as successful as ever, and the law was completely +defied. At last, finding that his expeditions against the outlaws +failed, partly from their adroitness and bravery and partly from want +of pilots capable of guiding attacking parties among the shoals +frequented by the smugglers, a large and tempting reward in gold was +offered to any one of them who would desert his comrades and act as +pilot to the King's ships. At the same time a double reward was +offered for the person of Marti, dead or alive, as he was known to be +the leader of the desperate men who so successfully defied the +authorities. These offers were fully promulgated, and care was taken +that those who were most interested should be made aware of their +purport. But the hoped-for result did not ensue. There was either too +much honor among the guilty characters to whom the bribe was offered +to permit them to betray each other, or they feared the condign +punishment which was the portion of all traitors among them. The +government had done its best, but had failed to accomplish its object. + +It was a dark, cloudy night in Havana, some three or four months +subsequent to the offering of the rewards to which we have referred. +Two sentinels were pacing back and forth before the main entrance of +the Governor's palace which forms one side of the area inclosing the +Plaza de Armas. The military band had performed as usual that evening +in the Plaza and had retired. The public, after enjoying the music, +had partaken of their ices and favorite drinks at La Domenica's and +found their way to their homes. The square was now very quiet, the +stillness only broken by the music of the fountain mingled with the +tread of the two sentinels. The stars looked calmly down from between +the rifts of hanging clouds which crowded one another onward as though +bound to some important rendezvous, where they were to perform their +part in a pending storm. A little before midnight a tall figure, +wrapped in a half military cloak, might have been observed watching +the two guards from behind the marble statue of Ferdinand. After +observing that they paced their apportioned walk, meeting each other +face to face, and then separated, leaving a brief moment when the eyes +of both were turned away from the entrance they were placed to guard, +the stranger seemed to calculate the chances of passing them without +being discovered. It was an exceedingly delicate manoeuvre, +requiring great care and dexterity. Watching for the favorable moment +the purpose was, however, accomplished; the tall man in the cloak at a +bound passed within the portal and quickly secreted himself in the +shadows of the inner court. The sentinels paced on undisturbed. + +The individual who had thus stealthily effected an entrance within the +gates of the palace now sought the broad marble steps which led to the +Governor's business suite of rooms, with a confidence that evinced a +perfect knowledge of the place. A second sentinel was to be passed at +the head of the stairs, but, assuming an air of authority, the +stranger gave a formal military salute and passed quickly forward as +though there was not the least question as to his right to do so. The +drowsy guard promptly presented arms, doubtless mistaking him for some +regular officer of the Governor's staff. The stranger boldly entered +the Governor's reception-room and closed the door behind him. In a +large chair sat the commander-in-chief before a broad table, engaged +in writing, but he was quite alone. An expression of undisguised +satisfaction passed across the weather-beaten countenance of the +new-comer at this state of affairs, as he coolly cast off his cloak, +tossed it carelessly over his arm, and proceeded to wipe the +perspiration from his face. The Governor, looking up with surprise +and fixing his keen eyes upon the intruder, asked peremptorily:-- + +"Who enters here unannounced and at this hour?" + +"One who has important information to impart to the government," was +the quiet reply. + +"But why seek this manner of audience?" + +"For reasons, Excellency, that will soon appear." + +"How did you pass the guard unchallenged?" + +"Do not mind that for the present, Excellency." + +"But I do mind it very seriously." + +"It can be explained by and by." + +"Very well," said the Governor, "speak quickly then. What is your +business here?" + +"Excellency, you have publicly offered a handsome reward for any +information concerning the contrabandists," continued the stranger. +"Is it not so?" + +"Ha!" said the Governor, "is that your errand here? What have you to +say about those outlaws? Speak, speak quickly." + +"Excellency, I must do so with caution," said the stranger, "otherwise +I may condemn myself by what I have to communicate." + +"Not so," interrupted Tacon, "the offer"-- + +"I know, Excellency, a free pardon is promised to him who shall turn +state's evidence, but there may be circumstances"-- + +"The offer is unconditional, as it regards pardon." + +"True, but"-- + +"I say you have naught to fear," continued Tacon; "the offered reward +involves unconditional pardon to the informant." + +"You offer an additional reward, Excellency, for the discovery of the +leader of the contrabandists, Captain Marti." + +"Ay." + +"It is a full revelation I have come hither to make." + +"Speak, then." + +"First, Excellency, will you give me your knightly word that you will +grant a free pardon to me, a personal pardon, if I reveal all that you +require?" + +"I pledge you my word of honor," replied the Governor. + +"No matter how heinous in the eyes of the law my offenses may have +been, still you will pardon me under the King's seal?" + +"Why all this reiteration?" asked Tacon impatiently. + +"Excellency, it is necessary," was the reply. + +"I will do so, if you reveal truly and to any good purpose," answered +the Governor, weighing carefully in his mind the purpose of all this +precaution. + +"Even if I were a leader among these men?" + +The Governor hesitated but for a single moment, while he gave the man +before him a searching glance, then said:-- + +"Even then, be you whom you may, if you are able and willing to pilot +our ships and reveal the rendezvous of Marti and his followers, you +shall be rewarded and pardoned according to the published card." + +"Excellency, I think that I know your character well enough to fully +trust these words, else I should not have ventured here." + +"Speak, then, and without further delay. My time is precious," +continued the Governor with manifest impatience, and half rising from +his seat. + +"It is well. I will speak without further parley. The man for whom you +have offered the largest reward--ay, dead or alive--is before you!" + +"And you are"-- + +"Captain Marti!" + +Tacon had not expected this, but supposed himself talking to some +lieutenant of the famous outlaw, and though no coward he instinctively +cast his eyes towards a brace of pistols that lay within reach of his +right hand. This was but for a moment; yet the motion was not +unobserved by his visitor, who, stepping forward, drew a couple of +similar weapons from his own person and laid them quietly on the +table, saying:-- + +"I have no further use for these; it is to be diplomacy for the +future, not fighting." + +"That is well," responded the Governor; and after a few moments of +thought he continued: "I shall keep my promise, be assured of that, +provided you faithfully perform your part, notwithstanding the law +demands your immediate punishment. For good reasons, as well as to +secure your faithfulness, you must remain under guard," he added. + +"I have anticipated that, and am prepared," was the reply. + +"We understand each other then." + +Saying which he rang a small silver bell by his side, and issued a +verbal order to the attendant who responded. In a few moments after, +the officer of the watch entered, and Marti was placed in confinement, +with directions to render him as comfortable as possible under the +circumstances. His name was withheld from the officers. + +Left alone, the Governor mused for a few moments thoughtfully over the +scene which we have described, then, summoning the officer of the +guard, demanded that the three sentinels on duty should be relieved +and brought at once before him. What transpired between them was not +made public, but it was known on the following day that they had been +condemned to the chain-gang for a whole month. Military law is rigid. + +On the subsequent day, one of the light-draught corvettes which lay +under the guns of Moro Castle suddenly became the scene of the utmost +activity, and before noon had weighed anchor and was standing out of +the harbor. Captain Marti was on board acting as pilot, and faithfully +did he guide the government ship in the discharge of her errand among +the bays and shoals of the southern coast. For more than a month he +was engaged in this piloting to all the secret haunts and storage +places of the contrabandists, but it was observed that very few stores +were found in them! On this famous expedition one or two small vessels +were taken and destroyed in the bays of the Isle of Pines, but not one +of the smugglers was captured. Information of the approach of the +would-be captors was always mysteriously conveyed to them, and when a +rendezvous was reached the occupants, it was found, had fled a few +hours previously! The amount of property secured was very small, but +still the organization which had so long and so successfully defied +the government was broken up, and the smugglers' place of rendezvous +became known. Marti returned with the ship to claim his reward. Tacon +was well satisfied with the result and with the manner in which the +ex-smuggler had fulfilled his agreement. The officials did not look +very deeply into the business, and they believed that Marti had +really betrayed his former comrades. The Governor-General summoned him +to his presence and said to Marti:-- + +"As you have faithfully performed your part of our agreement, I am +prepared to fulfill mine. In this package you will find a free and +unconditional pardon for all your past offenses against the law. Mark +the word _past_ offenses," reiterated the Governor. "Any new +disloyalty on your part shall be as promptly and rigorously treated as +though these late services had never been rendered. And here is an +order upon the treasury for the sum"-- + +"Excellency, excuse me," said the pardoned smuggler, stepping back, +and holding up his hand in significance of declining the reward. + +"What does this mean?" asked Tacon. + +"Permit me to explain, Excellency." + +"What, more conditions?" asked the Governor. + +"The pardon, Excellency, I gladly receive," continued Marti. "As to +the sum of money you propose to give me, let me make you a proposal." + +"Speak out. Let us know what it is." + +"The treasury is poor," said the ex-smuggler, "I am rich. Retain the +money, and in place of it guarantee me alone the right to fish on the +coast of Cuba, and declare the business of supplying the people with +fish contraband, except to me and my agents. This will amply +compensate me, and I will erect a public market at my own expense, +which shall be an ornament to the city, and which at the expiration of +twenty-five years shall revert to the government." + +"So singular a proposition requires to be considered," said the +Governor. + +"In the mean time I will await your commands," said Marti, preparing +to leave. + +"Stay," said the Governor. "I like your proposal, and shall probably +accede to it; but I will take a day to give it careful thought." + +As Tacon said, he was pleased with the idea from the outset. He saw +that he was dealing with a thorough man of business. He remembered +that he should always have the man under his control, and so the +proposal was finally accepted and confirmed. + +The ci-devant smuggler at once assumed all the rights which this +extraordinary grant gave to him. Seeking his former comrades, they +were all employed by Marti on profitable terms as fishermen, and +realized an immunity from danger not to be expected in their old +business. Having in his roving life learned where to seek fish in the +largest quantities, he furnished the city bountifully with the +article, and reaped a large annual profit, until the period expired +for which the monopoly was granted, and the market reverted to the +government. + +Marti, in the mean time, possessing great wealth, looked about him to +see in what enterprise he could best invest it. The idea struck him +that if he could obtain some such agreement relating to theatricals in +Havana as he had enjoyed in connection with the fishery on the coast, +he could make a profitable business of it. He was granted the +privilege he sought, provided he should build one of the largest and +best appointed theatres in the world on the Paseo, and name it the +Tacon Theatre. This agreement he fulfilled. The detailed conditions of +this monopoly were never made public. + +Many romantic stories are told relating to Captain Marti, but these +are the only ones bearing upon the subject of our present work which +are believed to be authentic. + +Of all the Governors-General who have occupied that position in Cuba, +none are better known at home or abroad than Tacon, though he filled +the post but four years, having been appointed in 1834, and returning +to Spain in 1838. His reputation at Havana is of a somewhat doubtful +character, for although he followed out with energy the various +improvements suggested by Arranjo, yet his modes of procedure were +often so violent that he was an object of terror to the people +generally rather than one of gratitude. It must be admitted that he +vastly improved the appearance of the capital and its vicinity, built +a new prison, rebuilt the Governor's palace, constructed several new +roads in the environs, including the Paseo bearing his name, and +opened a large parade-ground just outside the old city walls, thus +laying the foundation of the new city which has sprung up in the +formerly desolate neighborhood of the Campo de Marte. Tacon also +practically suppressed the public gaming-houses, but this radical +effort to check an inherent vice only resulted in transferring the +gambling-tables of the private houses devoted to the purpose into the +public restaurants, which was not much of an improvement. + +In one important matter he was more successful; namely, in instituting +a system of police, and rendering the streets of Havana, which were +formerly infested with robbers, as secure as those of most of our +American cities. But his reforms were all consummated with a rude, +arbitrary arm, and in a military fashion. Life or property were +counted by him of little value, if either required to be sacrificed +for his purpose. Many people fell before his relentless orders. There +was undoubtedly much of right mingled with his wrongs, but if he left +lasting monuments of energy and skill behind him, he also left many +tombs filled by his victims. Notwithstanding all, there seemed to be +throughout his notable career a sort of romantic spirit of +justice--wild justice--prompting him. Some of the stories still +current relating to him go far to show this to have been the case, +while others exhibit the possibilities of arbitrary power, as +exercised in the contract with Captain Marti. + +On January 6th, the day of Epiphany, the negroes of Havana, as well as +in the other cities of the island, make a grand public demonstration; +indeed, the occasion may be said to be given up to them as a holiday +for their race. They march about the principal streets in bands, each +with its leader got up like a tambour major, and accompanied by rude +African drum notes and songs. They are dressed in the most fantastic +and barbarous disguises, some wearing cow's horns, others masks +representing the heads of wild beasts, and some are seen prancing on +dummy horses. All wear the most gorgeous colors, and go from point to +point on the plazas and paseos, asking for donations from every one +they meet. It is customary to respond to these demands in a moderate +way, and the greatest reasonable latitude is given to the blacks on +the occasion; reminding one of a well-manned ship at sea in a dead +calm, before the days of steam, when all hands were piped to mischief. +But what it all means except improving a special occasion for +wholesale noise, grotesque parading, and organized begging, it will +puzzle the stranger to make out. Among the colored performers there is +but a small proportion of native Africans, that is, negroes actually +imported into Cuba; most of them are direct descendants, however, +from parents who were brought from the slave coast, but it must be +remembered that none have been imported for about thirty years. + +The Isle of Pines, which has been more than once alluded to in these +notes, is situated less than forty miles south of Cuba, being under +the jurisdiction of the Governor-General of Havana. It is forty-four +miles long and nearly as wide, having an area of between twelve and +thirteen hundred square miles. It is supposed that there are about two +thousand inhabitants, though Spanish statistics are not to be relied +upon. Like Cuba, it has a mountain range traversing the middle for its +whole length, but the highest portion does not reach quite two +thousand feet. The island has several rivers and is well watered by +springs. The climate is pronounced to be even more salubrious than +that of Cuba, while the soil is marvelously fertile. An English +physician, who, with a patient, passed a winter at Nueva Gerona, which +has a population of only a hundred souls, says the climate is +remarkably bland and equable, especially adapted for pulmonary +invalids. The coast is deeply indented by bays, some of which afford +good anchorage, though the island is surrounded by innumerable rocky +islets or keys. The Isle of Pines is very nearly in the same condition +in which Columbus found it in 1494, containing a large amount of +precious woods, and some valuable mines of silver, iron, sulphur, +quicksilver, and quarries of beautifully variegated marble. It is +reached by special steamers from Havana, not oftener than once a +month. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + The Havana Lottery. -- Its Influence. -- Hospitality of the + Cubans. -- About Bonnets. -- The Creole Lady's Face. -- Love + of Flowers. -- An Atmospheric Narcotic. -- The Treacherous + Indian Fig. -- How the Cocoanut is propagated. -- Cost of + Living in Cuba. -- Spurious Liquors. -- A Pleasant Health + Resort. -- The Cock-Pit. -- Game-Birds. -- Their Management. + -- A Cuban Cock-Fight. -- Garden of the World. -- About + Birds. -- Stewed Owl! -- Slaughter of the Innocents. -- The + Various Fruits. + + +There is a regularly organized lottery in Havana, to which the +government lends its name, and which has semi-monthly drawings. These +drawings are made in public, and great care is taken to impress the +people with the idea of their entire fairness. The authorities realize +over a million dollars annually by the tax which is paid into the +treasury on these most questionable enterprises. The lottery is +patronized by high and low, the best mercantile houses devoting a +regular sum monthly to the purchase of tickets on behalf of their +firms. One individual of this class told the writer that no drawing +had taken place within the last ten years at Havana in which the firm +of which he was a member had not been interested to the extent of at +least one doubloon, that is, one whole ticket. The mode usually is, +however, to purchase several fractional parts of tickets, so as to +multiply the chances. On being asked what was the result of the ten +years of speculation in this line, the reply was that the books of the +firm would show, as it was entered therein like any other line of +purchases. Curious to find an authentic instance as an example, the +matter was followed up until the result was found. It seemed that this +house had averaged about four hundred dollars per annum expended for +lottery tickets, that is, four thousand dollars in the last ten years. +On the credit side they had received in prizes about nineteen hundred +dollars, making a loss of twenty-one hundred dollars. "But then," +remarked our informant, "we may get a big prize one of these +days,--who knows?" + +The lottery here proves to be as great a curse as it does in Italy, +where its demoralizing effects are more apparent. The poorer classes, +even including the slaves and free negroes, are regular purchasers, +and occasionally a prize is realized among them, which stimulates to +increased ventures. A few years since, some slaves upon a plantation +near Alquizar purchased a single ticket, clubbing together in order to +raise the money. These Africans drew a prize of forty thousand +dollars, which sum was honestly paid to them, and they purchased their +freedom at once, dividing a very pretty amount for each as a capital +to begin business on his own account. + +"And pray what became of those liberated men?" we asked of our +informant. "Singular to say I can tell you," he answered. "Others felt +the same interest you express, and they have been followed in their +subsequent career. There were sixteen of the party, who realized equal +portions of the prize. They were valuable slaves, and paid an average +of fifteen hundred dollars each for their free papers. This left them +a thousand dollars each. Two returned to Africa. Four joined the +insurgents at Santiago, in 1870, and were probably shot. The remainder +drank themselves to death in Havana, or died by fevers induced +through intemperate habits." "Did you ever know a man, white or black, +who drew a prize of any large amount, who was not the worse for it +after a short time?" we asked. "Perhaps not," was his honest reply. A +miserable creature came into the vestibule of the Telegrafo Hotel one +day begging. After he had departed we were told that a few years ago +he was possessed of a fortune. "Why is he in this condition?" we +asked. "He was engaged in a good business," said our informant, "drew +a large prize in the lottery, sold out his establishment, and gave +himself up to pleasure, gambling, and drink. That is all that is left +of him now. He has just come out of the hospital, where he was treated +for paralysis." + +Honestly conducted as these lotteries are generally believed to be, +their very stability and the just payment of prizes but makes them the +more baleful and dangerous in their influence upon the public. As +carried on in Havana, the lottery business is the most wholesale mode +of gambling ever witnessed. Though some poor man may become +comparatively wealthy through their means, once in twenty years, yet +in the mean time thousands are impoverished in their mad zeal to +purchase tickets though it cost them the last dollar they possess. The +government thus fosters a taste for gambling and supplies the ready +means, while any one at all acquainted with the Spanish character must +know that the populace need no prompting in a vice to which they seem +to take intuitively. No people, unless it be the Chinese, are so +addicted to all games of chance upon which money can be staked. + +Spaniards, and especially Cuban Spaniards, receive credit for being +extremely hospitable, and to a certain extent this is true; but one +soon learns to regard the extravagant manifestations which so often +characterize their domestic etiquette as rather empty and heartless. +Let a stranger enter the house of a Cuban for the first time, +especially if he be a foreigner, and the host or hostess of the +mansion at once places all things they possess at his service, yet no +one thinks for a single moment of interpreting this offer literally. +The family vehicle is at your order, or the loan of a saddle horse, +and in such small kindnesses they are always generous; but when they +beg you to accept a ring, a book, or a valuable toy, because you have +been liberal in your praise of the article, you are by no means to do +so. Another trait of character which suggests itself in this +connection is the universal habit of profuse compliment common among +Cuban ladies. Flattery is a base coin at best, but it is current here. +The ladies listen to these compliments as a matter of course from +their own countrymen or such Frenchmen as have settled among them, but +if an American takes occasion to express his honest admiration to a +Creole, her delight is at once manifest. Both the French and Spanish +are extremely gallant to the gentler sex, but it requires no argument +to show that woman under either nationality is far less esteemed and +honored than she is with us in America. + +The bonnet, which forms so important a part of a lady's costume in +Europe and America, is rarely worn by the Creoles, and strangers who +appear on the streets of Havana with the latest fashion of this ever +varying article are regarded with curiosity, though so many American +and English ladies visit the island annually. In place of a bonnet, +when any covering is considered desirable for the head, the Cuban +ladies generally wear a long black veil, richly wrought, and gathered +at the back of the head upon the clustered braid of hair, which is +always black and luxuriant. More frequently, however, even this +appendage is not seen, and they drive in the Paseo or through the +streets with their heads entirely uncovered, save by the sheltering +hood of the victoria. When necessity calls them abroad in the early or +middle hours of the day, there is generally a canvas screen buttoned +to the dasher and extended to the top of the calash, to shut out the +too ardent rays of the sun. Full dress, on all state occasions, is +black, but white is universally worn by the ladies in domestic life, +forming a rich contrast to the olive complexions of the women. +Sometimes in the Paseo, when enjoying the evening drive, these fair +creatures indulge in strange contrasts of colors in dress. They also +freely make use of a cosmetic called cascarilla, made from eggshells +finely powdered and mixed with the white of the egg. This forms an +adhesive paste, with which they at times enamel themselves, so that +faces and necks that are naturally dark resemble those of persons who +are white as pearls. + +There is one indispensable article, without which a Cuban lady would +feel herself absolutely lost. The fan is a positive necessity to her, +and she learns its coquettish and graceful use from childhood. Formed +of various rich materials, it glitters in her tiny hand like a gaudy +butterfly, now half, now wholly shading her radiant face, which +quickly peeps out again from behind its shelter, like the moon from +out a passing cloud. This little article, always costly, sometimes +very expensive, in her hand seems in its eloquence of motion almost to +speak. She has a witching flirt with it that expresses scorn; a +graceful wave of complacence; an abrupt closing of it that indicates +vexation or anger; a gradual and cautious opening of its folds that +signifies reluctant forgiveness; in short, the language of the fan in +the hand of a Cuban lady is a wonderfully adroit and expressive +pantomime that requires no interpreter, for, like the Chinese written +language, it cannot be spoken. + +It may be the prodigality of nature in respect to Flora's kingdom +which has retarded the development of a love for flowers among the +people of the island. Doubtless if Marechal Niel roses, Jacqueminots, +jonquils, and lilies of the valley were as abundant with us in every +field as clover, dandelions, and buttercups, we should hardly regard +them with so much delight as we do. It is not common to see flowers +under cultivation as they are at the North. They spring up too readily +in a wild state from the fertile soil. One cannot pass over half a +league on an inland road without his senses being regaled and +delighted by the natural floral fragrance, heliotrope, honeysuckle, +sweet pea, and orange blossoms predominating. The jasmine and Cape +rose, though less fragrant, are delightful to the eye, and cluster +everywhere among the hedges, groves, and coffee estates. There is a +blossoming shrub, the native name of which we do not remember, but +which is remarkable for its multitudinous crimson flowers, so +seductive to the humming-birds that they hover about it all day long, +burying themselves in its blossoms until petal and wing seem one. At +first upright, a little later the gorgeous bells droop downward and +fall to the ground unwithered, being poetically called Cupid's tears. +Flowers abound here which are only known to us in our hothouses, whose +brilliant colors, like those of the cactus, scarlet, yellow, and blue, +are quite in harmony with the surroundings, where everything is aglow. +There was pointed out to us a specimen of the frangipanni, a tall and +nearly leafless plant bearing a milk-white flower, and resembling the +tuberose in fragrance, but in form much like our Cherokee rose. This +plant, it will be remembered, was so abundant and so pleasant to the +senses as to attract the attention of the early explorers who +accompanied Columbus across the sea. + +There seems to be at times a strange narcotic influence in the +atmosphere of the island, realized more especially inland, where the +visitor is partially removed from the winds which commonly blow from +the Gulf in the after part of the day. So potent has the writer felt +this influence that at first it was supposed to be the effect of some +powerful and medicinal plant abounding in the neighborhood; but on +inquiry it was found that this delightful sense of ease and indolent +luxuriousness was not an unusual experience, particularly among +strangers, and was solely attributable to the narcotic of the soft +climate. By gently yielding to this influence one seemed to dream +while awake, and though the sense of hearing is diminished, that of +the olfactories appears to be increased, and pleasant odors float on +every passing breeze. One feels at peace with all human nature, and a +sense of voluptuous ease overspreads the body. Others have experienced +and remarked upon this sensation of idle happiness. The only +unpleasant realizing sense during the enjoyment of this condition is +the fear that some human voice, or some chance noise, loud and abrupt, +may arouse the dreamer from his trance. + +Specimens of the Indian fig, as it is called here, will be sure to +attract the visitor's eye on his inland excursions. It clasps, +entwines, and finally, serpent-like, kills the loftiest forest +monarchs, and taking their place, firmly roots itself and becomes a +stately tree, fattening upon its ill-gotten possession. Its unfading +leaf of vivid green is beautiful to look upon, in spite of its known +and treacherous character. In many respects it typifies the Spanish +discoverers of this beautiful isle, who gradually possessed themselves +of its glorious heritage by the destruction of its legitimate owners. + +The manner in which that prolific tree, the cocoanut palm, is +propagated was a curious and interesting study for a leisure hour, the +germination having been with us heretofore an unsolved riddle. Within +the hard shell of the nut, among the mass of rich creamy substance, +near the large end, is a small white lump like the stalk of a young +mushroom, called the ovule. This little finger-like germ of the future +tree gradually forces itself through one of the three eyes always to +be found on the cocoanut. What giant power is concealed within that +tiny ovule, apparently so soft and insignificant! Having pierced its +way through the first shell, it then gradually rends the outer coat of +fibrous covering and curves upward towards the light. Into the inner +shell which it has vacated, it throws little fibrous threads which +slowly absorb the albumen, and thus sustain its new life as it rapidly +develops. First a few leaves grow upward, which from the very outset +begin to assume the pinnate form of the cocoanut leaf, while, +stretching earthward, a myriad of little threads of roots bury +themselves in the ground. Though the tree will grow to a height of +sixty feet or more, these roots will never individually exceed the +size of the fingers on one's hand. In five or six years the tree will +produce its first cluster of cocoanuts, and for several years will go +on increasing in fruitfulness and yielding a bountiful crop for fifty +or sixty years. It was a constant wonder how these cocoanut trees +could sustain an upright position with such a weight of ripening fruit +clustered beneath the shade of their tufted tops. + +As regards the cost of living in the island, it may be said to average +higher to the stranger than in the United States. At the city hotels +and large boarding houses the charge is modified from four or five +dollars per day; if a special bargain is made for a considerable +period, it is customary to give a reduction on transient rates of ten +or fifteen per cent. Among the small towns in the interior, at the +houses of entertainment, which are wretchedly poor as a rule, the +charges are exorbitant, and strangers are looked upon as fair game. +This, however, is no more so than in continental Europe, where, though +the accommodations are better, the general treatment is the same. The +luscious and healthful fruits of the country form a large share of the +provisions of the table in Cuba, and are always freely provided. A +fair quality of claret wine, imported from Spain, is also regularly +placed before the guest free of charge, it being the ordinary drink of +the people; but beware of calling for other wines, and particularly +champagne, unless you are prepared to be swindled by the price charged +in your bill. Of course you get only imitation champagne,--that is to +be expected; you do the same nearly everywhere. There is not enough +pure champagne manufactured in Europe to supply the Paris and London +markets alone. The mode of cooking is very similar to the French, plus +the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime +necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba, +however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table +which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content +to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the +curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to +compensate for many small annoyances. + +One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on +the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated +about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by +rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that +between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the +result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over +nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently +demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The +water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly +depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three +or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines +is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on +the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by +Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary +for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in +Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is +impossible to find in the metropolis. + +Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious +place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives +indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling +combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds +become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could +not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other +in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as +long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and +the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of +gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these +contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being +reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted +priest, as eager in the result as the professionals themselves. The +cock-pit is a circular building, thirty or forty feet in diameter, +resembling on the outside a huge haystack. The size, however, is +regulated according to the population of the immediate neighborhood. +The seats are raised in a circle, one above another, about a central +ring in which the contest takes place. The ground is covered with +sawdust or tan. The birds are of a native game breed, and are subject +from chickenhood to a peculiar course of treatment. The English +game-cock is prized here only for crossing with the native breed. He +cannot equal the Spanish bird in the necessary qualities of pluck and +endurance. + +The food of the game-cock when in training is regulated with great +care, carefully weighed, and a certain number of ounces is given to +him three times a day, so that the bird, like a race-horse, is never +permitted to grow fat, but is kept in what is called fighting +condition. Some days before a contest they are fed with a few ounces +of raw meat once during the twenty-four hours, which, being kept +always a little hungry, they devour with avidity. Greater care as to +diet and exercise could not be taken by pugilists training for a +conflict. The feathers of these fighting-cocks are closely cropped in +a jaunty style; the neck and head, to the length of three inches, is +completely plucked of all feathers, the comb being trimmed close to +the crown. The flesh which is thus left bare is daily rubbed with rum +until it becomes hardened and calloused. Brief encounters are +permitted among them under proper restrictions, when they are young. +No fear is felt that they will seriously injure each other, until they +are old enough to have the sharp steel gaffs affixed upon the spurs +with which nature has supplied them. Then, like men armed with sword +and dagger, they attack each other with fatal earnestness, making the +blood flow at every stroke. It is singular that the birds are so +determined upon the fight that no amount of loud cries, or challenges +between the betters, or jeers by the excited audience, disturbs them +in the least. + +The author witnessed one of these exhibitions at Guines. The +fighting-ring of the cock-pit was some twelve feet in diameter, the +seating capacity being arranged for about a hundred persons or more, +and each bench was fully occupied. The two birds pitted against each +other were carefully weighed, and the result was announced to the +audience. They were then passed in review, held in the hands of their +respective owners, and betting at once commenced as to which would +win the victory. In the mean time the two birds seemed quietly +awaiting their time, and by the knowing way in which both surveyed the +surroundings and the assembled people, they really appeared as if they +understood the business in hand. There was no struggling on their part +to get out of the hands of those who held them. Presently they were +passed into the care of the umpires, two of whom officiated, and who +then affixed the steel gaffs to the spurs of the contestants. The two +birds were then placed on the ground inside of the ring, opposite each +other. No sooner did they feel themselves fairly on their feet than +both crowed triumphantly, eying each other with fell intent. + +Then commenced a series of bird-tactics, each partially advancing and +pretending to retreat as if to draw on his antagonist, pecking the +while at imaginary kernels of corn on the ground. In the mean time the +audience almost held its breath in anticipation of the cunningly +deferred onset. Presently the two birds, as if by one impulse, rushed +towards each other, and a simultaneous attack took place. The contest, +when the birds are armed with steel gaffs, rarely lasts more than +eight or ten minutes before one or both are so injured as to end the +fight. The money staked upon the fight is won by those backing the +bird which survives, or is longest in dying. When the artificial spurs +are not used, and the birds fight in their natural state, the battle +sometimes lasts for an hour, but is always fatal in the end to one or +the other, or both. Eyes are pecked out, wings and legs broken, necks +pierced again and again; still they fight on until death ensues. +During the fight the excitement is intense, and a babel of voices +reigns within the structure, the betting being loud, rapid, and high. +Thus in a small way the cock-fight is as cruel and as demoralizing as +that other national game, the terrible bull-fight, indigenous to Spain +and her colonies. + +Cuba has justly been called the garden of the world, perpetual summer +smiling upon its shores, and its natural wealth and possibilities +baffling even the imagination. The waters which surround it, as we +have seen, abound with a variety of fishes, whose bright colors, +emulating the tints of precious stones and the prismatic hues of the +rainbow, astonish and delight the eye of the stranger. Stately and +peculiar trees enliven the picturesque landscape. Throughout the woods +and groves flit a variety of birds, whose dazzling colors defy the +palette of the artist. Here the loquacious parrot utters his harsh +natural notes; there the red flamingo watches by the shore of the +lagoon, the waters dyed by the reflection of his scarlet plumage. It +would require a volume to describe the vegetable and animal kingdom of +Cuba, but among the most familiar birds are the golden robin, the +bluebird, the catbird, the Spanish woodpecker, the gaudy-plumed +paroquet, and the pedoreva, with its red throat and breast and its +pea-green head and body. There is also a great variety of wild +pigeons, blue, gray, and white; the English lady-bird, with a blue +head, scarlet breast, and green and white back; the indigo-bird, the +golden-winged woodpecker, the ibis, and many smaller species, like the +humming-bird. Of this latter family there are said to be sixty +different varieties, each sufficiently individualized in size and +other peculiarities to be easily identified by ornithologists. Some +of these birds are actually no larger in body than butterflies, and +with not so large a spread of wing. A humming-bird's nest, composed of +cotton interlaced with horse-hair, was shown the author at Buena +Esperanza, a plantation near Guines. It was about twice the size of a +lady's thimble, and contained two eggs, no larger than common peas. +The nest was a marvel of perfection, the cotton being bound cunningly +and securely together by the long horse-hairs, of which there were not +more than three or four. Human fingers could not have done it so +deftly. Probably the bird that built the nest and laid the eggs did +not weigh, all fledged, over half an ounce! Parrots settle on the sour +orange trees when the fruit is ripe, and fifty may be secured by a net +at a time. The Creoles stew and eat them as we do pigeons; the flesh +is tough, and as there are plenty of fine water-fowl and marsh birds +about the lagoons as easily procured, one is at a loss to account for +the taste that leads to eating parrots. The brown pelican is seen in +great numbers sailing lazily over the water and dipping for fish. + +Strange is the ubiquity of the crows; one sees them in middle India, +China, and Japan. They ravage our New England cornfields, and in +Ceylon,--equatorial Ceylon,--they absolutely swarm. When one, +therefore, finds them saucy, noisy, thieving, even in Cuba, it is not +surprising that the fact should be remarked upon, though here the +species differs somewhat from those referred to, being known as the +Jack-crow or turkey-buzzard. In the far East, like the vulture, the +crow is considered a natural scavenger or remover of carrion, and the +same excuse is made for him in Cuba and Florida. But is he not more of +a freebooter and feathered bandit,--in short, a prowling thief +generally? Nature has few birds or animals upon her varied list with +which we would find fault, but the crow,--well, having nothing to say +in its favor, let us drop the subject. Parrots, paroquets, tiny indigo +birds, pedorevas, and robins,--yes, these are all in harmony with +mingled fragrance and sunshine, but the coal-black crow, with his bad +habits and hoarse bird-profanity, bah! When these West Indian islands +were first settled by Spanish emigrants, they were the home of myriads +of birds of every tropical variety, but to-day the feathered beauties +and merry songsters have been entirely driven away from some of the +smaller islands, and decimated on others, by the demand for bird's +wings with which to deck ladies' bonnets in Europe and America. +Sportsmen have found it profitable to visit the tropics solely for the +purpose of shooting these rainbow-colored creatures for ornaments. +Aside from the loss to general interest and beauty in nature caused by +this wholesale destruction of the feathered tribe, another and quite +serious result has been the consequence. A plague of vermin has +followed the withdrawal of these little insect-killers. It is so +natural to look for them amid such luxuriant vegetation that they +become conspicuous by their absence. Now and again, however, the ears +are gratefully saluted by the trilling and sustained notes of some +hidden songster, whose music is entirely in tune with the surrounding +loveliness, but truly delightful song-birds have ever been rare in the +low latitudes, where there is more of color than song. + +Those agriculturists who possess sufficient means confine themselves +solely to the raising of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, the former +principally employing capital. Indian corn, which the first settlers +found indigenous here, is quite neglected, and when raised at all it +is used before ripening, almost universally, as green fodder; very +little is ripened and gathered as grain. It is found that horses and +cattle can be kept in good condition and strength, while performing +the usual labor required of them, by feeding them on a liberal +allowance of cornstalks, given in the green state, before the corn has +begun to form on the cob. The Cubans will tell you that the nourishing +principle which forms the grain is in the stalk and leaves, and if fed +in that state before ripening further, the animals obtain all the +sustaining properties which they require. The climate is particularly +adapted to the raising of oranges, but there is very little attention +given to propagating this universally popular fruit, more especially +since the increased production which has taken place on the other side +of the Gulf Stream in Florida. Three years after the seed of this +fruit is deposited in suitable soil in Cuba the tree becomes ten or +twelve feet in height, and in the fourth year rarely produces less +than a hundred oranges, while at ten years of age it commonly bears +three and four thousand, thus proving, with proper care, extremely +profitable. It will be remembered that it is the longest lived of +succulent fruit trees. There are specimens still extant in Cuba known +to be one hundred years old. The oranges produced in Florida are of +equally good quality, and bring a better price in the market, but the +crop is subject to more contingencies and liability to loss than in +Cuba. The frost not infrequently ruins a whole season's yield in the +peninsula in one or two severe nights, while frost is never +experienced upon the island. + +It seems unreasonable that when the generous, fruitful soil of Cuba is +capable of producing two or three crops of vegetables annually, the +agricultural wealth of the island should be so poorly developed. +Thousands upon thousands of acres of fertile soil are still in their +virgin condition. It is capable of supporting a population of almost +any density,--certainly from eight to ten millions of people might +find goodly homes here, and yet the largest estimate at the present +time gives only a million and a half of inhabitants. When one treads +the fertile soil and beholds the clustering fruits in such abundance, +the citron, the star-apple, the perfumed pineapple, the luscious +banana, and other fruits for which our language has no name, not +forgetting the various noble woods which caused Columbus to exclaim +with pleasure, and to mention the palm and the pine growing together, +characteristic types of Arctic and equatorial vegetation, we are +struck with the thought of how much Providence and how little man has +done for this Eden of the Gulf. We long to see it peopled by men who +can appreciate the gifts of nature, men who are willing to do their +part in recognition of her fruitfulness and who will second her +spontaneous bounty. + +Nowhere on the face of the globe would well-directed, intelligent +labor meet with a richer reward, nowhere would repose from labor be so +sweet. The hour of rest here sinks upon the face of nature with a +peculiar charm; the night breeze, in never-failing regularity, comes +with its gentle wing to fan the weary frame, and no danger lurks in +its breath. It has free scope through the unglazed windows, and +blowing fresh from the broad surface of the Mexican Gulf, it bears a +goodly tonic to the system. Beautifully blue are the heavens and +festally bright the stars of a tropical night, where familiar +constellations greet us with brighter radiance and new ones charm the +eye with their novelty. Preeminent in brilliancy among them is the +Southern Cross, a galaxy of stars that never greets us in the North. +At midnight its glittering framework stands erect. That solemn hour +past the Cross declines. How glorious the nights where such a heavenly +sentinel indicates the watches! "How often have we heard our guides +exclaim in the savannas of Venezuela," says Humboldt, "or in the +deserts extending from Lima to Truxillo, 'Midnight is past, the Cross +begins to bend.'" Cuba is indeed a land of enchantment, where nature +is beautiful and bountiful, and where mere existence is a luxury, but +it requires the infusion of a sterner, a more self-reliant, +self-denying and enterprising race to test its capabilities and to +astonish the world with its productiveness. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Traveling by Volante. -- Want of Inland Communication. -- + Americans Profitable Customers. -- The Cruel National Game. + -- The Plaza de Toros. -- Description of a Bull-Fight. -- The + Infection of Cruelty. -- The Romans and Spaniards Compared. + -- Cry of the Spanish Mob: "Bread and Bulls!" -- Women at the + Fight. -- The Nobility of the Island. --The Monteros. -- + Ignorance of the Common People. -- Scenes in the Central + Market, Havana. -- Odd Ideas of Cuban Beggars. -- An Original + Style of Dude. -- A Mendicant Prince. + + +The volante, the national vehicle of Cuba, and until latterly the only +one in common use upon the island, has been several times spoken of. +It has been superseded, especially in Havana, just as steam launches +are crowding out the gondolas on the canals of Venice. Our present +notes would be quite incomplete without a description of this unique +vehicle. It is difficult without experience to form an idea of its +extraordinary ease of motion, or its appropriateness to the +peculiarities of the country roads, where only it is now in use. At +first sight, with its shafts sixteen feet long, and wheels six yards +in circumference, one would think that it must be very disagreeable to +ride in; but the reverse is the fact, and when seated the motion is +most agreeable, like being rocked in a cloud. It makes nothing of the +deep ruts and inequalities upon the execrable roads, but sways gently +its low-hung, chaise-like body, and dashes over and through every +impediment with the utmost facility. Strange as it may seem, it is +very light upon the horse, which the postilion also bestrides. When +traveling any distance, a second horse is added on the left, abreast +of the first, and attached to the volante by an added whiffletree and +traces. When there are two horses the postilion rides the one to the +left, thus leaving the shaft-horse free of other weight than the +vehicle. + +If the roads are very rough, which is their chronic condition, and +there is more than usual weight to carry, a third horse is often +added, and he is placed abreast with the others, to the right of the +shaft horse, being guided by a bridle rein in the hands of the +calisero, as he is called. Heretofore the wealthy people took great +pride in these volantes, a purely Cuban idea, and they were ornamented +for city use at great expense with silver trimmings, and sometimes +even in gold. A volante equipped in this style, with the gayly-dressed +negro postilion, his scarlet jacket elaborately trimmed with gold or +silver braid, his high jack-boots with big silver buckles at the +knees, and huge spurs upon his heels, was quite a dashing affair, more +especially if a couple of black-eyed Creole ladies constituted the +freight. + +Were it not for the few railroads and steamboat routes which are +maintained, communication between the several parts of the island +would be almost impossible. During the rainy season especially, inland +travel is impracticable for wheels. China or Central Africa is equally +well off in this respect. Nearly all transportation, except it be on +the line of the railroads, is accomplished on mule-back, or on the +little Cuban horses. The fact is, road making is yet to be introduced +into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in +the environs of cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed +of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in +America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the +island than this absence of means for internal communication. In +Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford +facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was +first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most +bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was +the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of +property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city +proper. + +One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the +traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon +him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the +government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a +considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps +visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to +desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such +idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in +Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority. +Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor +desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh +permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show +your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which +you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says +it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at +police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin is quite as +uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must +hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the +contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are +sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your +correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well +as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the +receipt thereof. + +Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight +is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its +indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibitions are given at +Havana on each recurring Sunday afternoon, the same day that is chosen +for the brutal sport in Madrid and other Spanish peninsular cities. +The arena devoted to this purpose will seat about ten thousand +persons. The ground upon which the fight takes place occupies about an +acre, and is situated on the Regla side of the harbor, in the Plaza de +Toros. The seats are raised one above another, in a complete circle, +at a secure height from the dangerous struggle. Sometimes, in his +furious onslaughts, the bull throws himself completely over the stout +boards which separate him from the spectators, when a wild stampede +occurs. + +On the occasion of the fight witnessed by the author, after a shrill +flourish of trumpets a large bull was let loose from apartments +beneath the seats, the door of which opened into the arena. The poor +creature came from utter darkness, where he had been kept for many +hours, into a blaze of bright sunlight, which confused him for a +moment, and he pawed the ground excitedly, while he rolled his big +fierce eyeballs as though he suspected some trick had been played upon +him. Presently, having become accustomed to the light, he glared from +one side to the other as if to take in the situation, and see who it +was that dared to oppose him. + +In the ring, distributed here and there, were some half a dozen +professional fighters on foot, called banderilleros and chulos, +besides which there were two on horseback, known as picadors. The +former held scarlet flags in their hands, with which to confuse and +tease the bull; the latter were armed with a long pole each, at the +end of which was a sharp piece of steel capable of wounding the bull, +but not deeply or dangerously. These fighters were a hardened set of +villains, if the human countenance can be relied upon as showing forth +the inner man. They rushed towards the animal and flaunted their flags +before his eyes, striving to excite and draw him on to attack them. +They seemed reckless, but very expert, agile, and wary. Every effort +was made to worry and torment the bull to a state of frenzy. Barbs +were thrust into his neck and back by the banderilleros, with small +rockets attached. These exploded into his very flesh, which they +burned and tore. Thrusts from the horsemen's spears also gave harsh, +if not dangerous wounds, so that the animal bled freely at many +points. + +When the infuriated beast made a rush at one of his tormentors, they +adroitly sprang on one side, or, if too closely pressed, these +practiced athletes with a handspring leaped over the high board fence. +Whichever way he turned the bull met a fresh enemy and another device +of torment, until at last the poor creature was frantically mad. The +fight then became more earnest, the bull rushing first at one and +then another of his enemies, but the practiced fighters were too wary +for him; he could not change position so quickly as they could. +Finally, the bull turned his attention to the horses and made madly +first at the one which was nearest, and though he received a tearing +wound along his spine from the horseman's spear, he ripped the horse's +bowels open with his horns and threw him upon the ground, with his +rider under him. The men on foot rushed to the rescue and drew off the +bull by fresh attacks and by flaunting the flags before his eyes. In +the mean time, the rider was got out from beneath the horse, which lay +dying. The bull, finding that he could revenge himself on the horses, +transferred his attention to the other and threw him to the ground +with his rider, but received another long wound upon his own back. +Leaving the two horses lying nearly dead, the bull again turned upon +the banderilleros, rushing with such headlong speed at them that he +buried his sharp horns several inches in the timbers of the fence. It +was even a struggle for him to extract them. The purpose is not to +give the bull any fatal wounds, but to worry and torment him to the +last degree of endurance. This struggle was kept up for twenty minutes +or more, when the poor creature, bleeding from a hundred wounds, +seemed nearly exhausted. Then, at a sign from the director, there was +a grand flourish of trumpets, and the matador, a skillful swordsman +and the hero of the occasion, entered the ring to close with the bull, +singly. The other fighters withdrew and the matador advanced with a +scarlet flag in one hand and his naked sword in the other. The bull +stood at bay, too much worn by the fight and loss of blood to +voluntarily attack this single enemy. The matador advanced and lured +him to an attack by flaunting his flag. A few feeble rushes were made +by the bleeding animal, until, in a last effort to drive his horns +into this new enemy, he staggered heavily forward. This time the +matador did not leap to one side, but received the bull upon the point +of his Toledo blade, which was aimed at a spot just back of the horns, +where the brain meets the spinal column. As the bull comes on with his +head bent down to the charge, this spot is exposed, and forms a fair +target for a practiced hand. The effect was electrical. The bull +staggered, reeled from side to side for an instant, and then fell +dead. Four bulls were destroyed in a like manner that afternoon, and, +in their gallant fight for their lives, they killed seven horses, +trampling their riders in two instances almost fatally, though they +are protected by a sort of leather armor on their limbs and body. +During the fight with the second bull, which was an extremely fierce +and powerful creature, a young girl of eighteen dressed in male +attire, who was trained to the brutal business, took an active part in +the arena with the banderilleros. One remarkable feat which she +performed was that of leaping by means of a pole completely over the +bull when he was charging at her. At Madrid, where the author +witnessed a similar exhibition, the introduction of a young girl among +the fighters was omitted, but otherwise the performance was nearly +identical. At the close of each act of the murderous drama, six horses +gayly caparisoned with bells and plumes dashed into the arena led by +attendants, and chains being attached to the bodies of the dead +animals, they were drawn out at great speed through a gate opened for +the purpose, amid another flourish of trumpets and the shouts of the +excited multitude. + +The worst of all this is that the influence of such outrageous cruelty +is lasting. It infects the beholders with a like spirit. In fact, it +is contagious. We all know how hard the English people became in the +time of Henry VIII. and Bloody Mary. + +In this struggle of the bull ring there is no gallantry or true +bravery displayed on the part of the professional fighters. They run +but little personal risk, practiced as they are, sheltered and +protected by artificial means and armed with keen weapons, whereas the +bull has only his horns to protect himself from his many tormentors. +There is no possible escape for him; his fate is sealed from the +moment he enters the ring. All the true bravery exhibited is on his +part; he is always the attacking party, and were the exhibition to be +attempted in an open field, even armed as they are, he would drive +every one of his enemies out of sight. The much-lauded matador does +not take his position in front of the animal until it is very nearly +exhausted by loss of blood and long-continued, furious fighting. In +our estimation, he encounters far less risk than does the humblest of +the banderilleros or chulos, who torment the bull face to face in the +fullness of his physical strength and courage. Still, instances are +not wanting wherein these matadors have been seriously wounded and +even killed by a frantic and dying bull, who has roused himself for a +last final struggle. + +Whatever colonial modification the Spanish character may have +apparently undergone in Cuba, the Creole is Castilian still in his +love for the cruel sports of the arena. Great is the similitude also +between the modern Spaniard and the ancient Roman in this respect. As +the Spanish language more closely resembles Latin than does the +Italian, so do the Spanish people show more of Roman blood than the +natives of Italy themselves. _Panem et circenses_ (bread and +circuses!) was the cry of the old Roman populace, and to gratify their +wishes millions of sesterces were lavished, and hecatombs of human +victims slain in the splendid amphitheatres erected by the masters of +the world in all the cities subject to their sway. And so _pan y +toros_ (bread and bulls!) is the imperious demand of the Spaniards, to +which the government is forced to respond. The parallel may be pursued +still further. The proudest ladies of Rome, maids and matrons, gazed +with liveliest interest upon the dying gladiators who hewed each other +in pieces, or on the Christians who perished in conflict with the wild +beasts, half starved to give them battle. So the senoras and senoritas +of Madrid, Seville, Malaga, and Havana enjoy, with keen delight, the +terrible spectacle of bulls slaughtered by picadors and matadors, and +gallant horses ripped up and disemboweled by the horns of their brute +adversaries. It is true that the ameliorating spirit of Christianity +is evinced in the changes which the arena has undergone. Human lives +are no longer designedly sacrificed wholesale in the bloody contests, +yet the bull-fight is sufficiently barbarous and atrocious. It is a +national institution, indicative of national character. + +To look upon the serenity of Cuban ladies, driving in the Paseo or +listening to the nightly music in the Plaza de Isabella, one could not +possibly imagine them to be lacking in tenderness, or that there was +in them sufficient hardihood to witness such exhibitions as we have +described, and yet one third of the audience on the occasion spoken of +was composed of the gentler sex. They are almost universally handsome, +being rather below the average height of the sex with us, but +possessing an erect and dignified carriage. Their form, always rounded +to a delicate fullness, is quite perfection in point of model. Their +dark hair and olive complexions are well matched,--the latter without +a particle of natural carmine. The eyes are a match for the hair, +being large and beautifully expressive, with a most irresistible dash +of languor in them,--but not the languor of illness. It is really +difficult to conceive of an ugly woman with such eyes as they all +possess in Cuba,--the Moorish, Andalusian eye. The Cuban women have +also been justly famed for their graceful carriage, and it is indeed +the poetry of motion, singular as it may appear, when it is remembered +that for them to walk abroad is such a rarity. It is not the simple +progressive motion alone, but also the harmonious play of features, +the coquettish undulation of the face, the exquisite disposition of +costume, and the modulation of voice, that engage the beholder and +lend a happy charm to every attitude and every step. + +The gentlemen as a rule are good-looking, though they are much +smaller, lighter, and more agile than the average American. The lazy +life they so universally lead tends to make them less manly than a +more active one would do. It seems to be a rule among them never to do +for themselves that which a slave can do for them. This is +demonstrated in the style of the volante, where the small horse is +made not only to draw the vehicle, but also to carry a large negro on +his back as driver. Now, if reins were used, there would be no +occasion for the postilion at all, but a Spaniard or Creole would +think it demeaning to drive his own vehicle. With abundance of +leisure, and the ever present influences of their genial clime, where +the heart's blood leaps more swiftly to the promptings of the +imagination and where the female form earliest attains its maturity, +the West Indians seem peculiarly adapted for romance and for love. The +consequent adventures constantly occurring among them often culminate +in startling tragedies, and afford plots in which a French +feuilletonist would revel. + +The nobility of Cuba, so called, is composed of rather homespun +material, to say the least, of it. There may be some fifty individuals +dubbed with the title of marquis, and as many more with that of count, +most of whom have acquired their wealth and position by carrying on +extensive sugar plantations. These are sneeringly designated by the +humble classes as sugar noblemen, and not inappropriately so, as +nearly all of these aristocratic gentlemen have purchased their titles +outright for money. Not the least consideration is exercised by the +Spanish throne as to the fitness of these ambitious individuals for +honorary distinction. It is a mere question of money, and if this be +forthcoming the title follows as a natural sequence. Twenty-five +thousand dollars will purchase any title. Such things are done in +other lands, but not quite so openly. And yet the tone of Cuban +society in its higher circles is found to be rather aristocratic and +exclusive. The native of Old Spain does not endeavor to conceal his +contempt for foreigners of all classes, and as to the Creoles, he +simply scorns to meet them on social grounds, shielding his +inferiority of intelligence under a cloak of hauteur, assuming the +wings of the eagle, but possessing only the eyes of the owl. Thus the +Castilians and Creoles are ever at antagonism, both socially and +politically. The bitterness of feeling existing between them can +hardly be exaggerated. The sugar planter, the coffee planter, the +merchant, and the liberal professions stand in the order in which we +have named them, as regards their relative degree of social +importance, but wealth, in fact, has the same charm here as elsewhere +in Christendom, and the millionaire has the entree to all classes. + +The Monteros or yeomanry of the island inhabit the less cultivated and +cheaper portions of the soil, entering the cities only to dispose of +their surplus produce, and acting as the marketmen of the populous +districts. When they stir abroad, in nearly all parts of the island, +they are armed with a sword, and in the eastern sections about +Santiago, or even Cienfuegos, they also carry pistols in the holsters +of their saddles. Formerly this was indispensable for self-protection, +but at this time weapons are more rarely worn. Still the arming of the +Monteros has always been encouraged by the authorities, as they form a +sort of militia at all times available against negro insurrection, a +calamity in fear of which such communities must always live. The +Montero is rarely a slaveholder, but is frequently engaged on the +sugar plantations during the busy season as an overseer, and, to his +discredit be it said, he generally proves to be a hard taskmaster, +entertaining an intuitive dislike to the negroes. + +An evidence of the contagious character of cruelty was given in a +circumstance coming under the author's observation on a certain +plantation at Alquizar, where a manifest piece of severity led him to +appeal to the proprietor in behalf of a female slave. The request for +mercy was promptly granted, and the acting overseer, himself a +mulatto, was quietly reprimanded for his cruelty. "You will find," +said our host, "that colored men always make the hardest masters when +placed over their own race, but they have heretofore been much +employed on the island in this capacity, because a sense of pride +makes them faithful to the proprietor's interest. That man is himself +a slave," he added, pointing to the sub-overseer, who still stood +among the negroes, whip in hand. + +The Montero sometimes hires a free colored man to help him in the +planting season on his little patch of vegetable garden, in such work +as a Yankee would do for himself, but these small farmers trust mostly +to the exuberant fertility of the soil, and spare themselves all +manual labor, save that of gathering the produce and taking it to +market. They form, nevertheless, a very important and interesting +class of the population. They marry very young, the girls at thirteen +and fifteen, the young men from sixteen to eighteen, and almost +invariably rear large families. Pineapples and children are a +remarkably sure crop in the tropics. The increase among them during +the last half century has been very large, much more in proportion +than in any other class of the community, and they seem to be +approaching a degree of importance, at least numerically, which will +render them eventually like the American farmers, the bone and sinew +of the land. There is room enough for them and to spare, for hardly +more than one tenth of the land is under actual cultivation, a vast +portion being still covered by virgin forests and uncleared savannas. +The great and glaring misfortune--next to that of living under a +government permitting neither civil nor religious liberty, where +church and state are alike debased as the tools of despotism,--is +their want of educational facilities. Books and schools they have +none. Barbarism itself is scarcely less cultured. We were told that +the people had of late been somewhat aroused from this condition of +lethargy concerning education, and some effort has recently been made +among the more intelligent to afford their children opportunities for +instruction. But at the present writing, the Egyptian fellah is not +more ignorant than the rural population of Cuba, who as a mass possess +all the indolence and few of the virtues of the aborigines. + +There is one highly creditable characteristic evinced by the Monteros +as a class, and that is their temperate habits in regard to indulgence +in stimulating drinks. As a beverage they do not use ardent spirits, +and seem to have no taste or desire for the article, though they drink +the ordinary claret--rarely anything stronger. This applies to the +country people, not to the residents of the cities. The latter quickly +contract the habit of gin drinking, as already described. There is one +prominent vice to which the Monteros are indisputably addicted; +namely, that of gambling. It seems to be a natural as well as a +national trait, the appliances for which are so constantly at hand in +the form of lottery tickets and the cock-pits that they can hardly +escape the baleful influences. There are some who possess sufficient +strength of character and intelligence to avoid it altogether, but +with the majority it is the regular resort for each leisure hour. One +of their own statesmen, Castelar, told the Spaniards, not long since, +that gambling was the tax laid upon fools. + +Perhaps the best place at which to study the appearance and character +of the Monteros is at the Central Market, where they come daily by +hundreds from the country in the early morning to sell their produce, +accompanied by long lines of mules or horses with well-laden panniers. +It is a motley crowd that one meets there, where purchasers and +salesmen mingle promiscuously. From six to nine o'clock, A. M., it is +the busiest place in all Havana. Negroes and mulattoes, Creoles and +Spaniards, Chinamen and Monteros, men and women, beggars, purchasers, +and slaves, all come to the market on the Calzada de la Reina. Here +the display of fruits and vegetables is something marvelous, both in +variety and in picturesqueness of arrangement. This locality is the +natural resort of the mendicants, who pick up a trifle in the way of +provisions from one and another, as people who do not feel disposed to +bestow money will often give food to the indigent. This market was the +only place in the city where it was possible to purchase flowers, but +here one or two humble dealers came at early morn to dispose of such +buds and blossoms as they found in demand. A blind Chinese coolie was +found sitting on the sidewalk every morning, at the corner of the +Calzada de la Reina, just opposite the market, and he elicited a +trifle from us now and again. One morning a couple of roses and a +sprig of lemon verbena were added to his small gratuity. The effect +upon that sightless countenance was electrical, and the poor +mendicant, having only pantomime with which to express his delight, +seemed half frantic. The money fell to the ground, but the flowers +were pressed passionately to his breast. + +Did it remind him, we thought, of perfumes which had once delighted +his youthful senses in far-off Asia, before he had been decoyed to a +foreign land and into semi-slavery, to be deprived of health, liberty, +sight, hope, everything? + +The Cuban beggars have a dash of originality in their ideas as to the +successful prosecution of their calling; we mean those "native and to +the manor born." Some of them possess two and even three cadaverous +dogs, taught to follow closely at their heels, as they wander about, +and having the same shriveled-up, half-starved aspect as their +masters. One beggar, who was quite a cripple, had his daily seat in a +sort of wheelbarrow, at the corner of Paseo Street, opposite the Plaza +de Isabella. This man was always accompanied by a parrot of gaudy +plumage, perched familiarly on his shoulder. Now and then the cripple +put some favorite bird-food between his own lips, which the parrot +extracted and appropriated with such promptness as to indicate a good +appetite. Another solicitor of alms, quite old and bent, had an +amusing companion in a little gray squirrel, with a collar and string +attached, the animal being as mischievous as a monkey, now and then +hiding in one of the mendicant's several pockets, sometimes coming +forth to crack and eat a nut upon his owner's shoulder. A blind +beggar, of Creole nationality, sat all day long in the hot sun, on the +Alameda de Paula near the Hotel San Carlos, whose companion was a +chimpanzee monkey. The little half-human creature held out its hand +with a piteous expression to every passer-by, and deposited whatever +he received in his master's pocket. These pets serve to attract +attention, if not commiseration, and we observed that the men did not +beg in vain. + +The acme of originality, however, was certainly reached in the case of +a remarkable Creole beggar whose regular post is on the west corner of +the Central Market. This man is perhaps thirty-five or forty years of +age, and possesses a fine head, a handsome face, and piercing black +eyes. He is of small body, and his lower limbs are so withered as to +be entirely useless; so he sits with them curled up in a low, broad +basket, in which he is daily brought to the spot, locomotion in his +case being out of the question. He wears the cleanest of linen, and +his faultless cuffs and ruffled shirt-bosom are decked with solid gold +studs. He is bareheaded, but his thick black hair is carefully +dressed, and parted with mathematical precision in the middle. He +wears neither coat nor vest, but his lower garments are neatly adapted +to his deformity, and are of broadcloth. This man does not utter a +word, but extends his hand pleasantly, with an appealing look from his +handsome eyes, which often elicits a silver real from the passer-by. +We acknowledge to having been thus influenced more than once, in our +morning walks, by a sympathy which it would be difficult to analyze. +We had seen a colored dude selling canes at Nassau, but a dude +mendicant, and a cripple at that, was a physical anomaly. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Introduction of Sugar-Cane. -- Sugar Plantations. -- Mode of + Manufacture. -- Slaves on the Plantations. -- African + Amusements. -- The Grinding Season. -- The Coffee + Plantations. -- A Floral Paradise. -- Refugees from St. + Domingo. -- Interesting Experiments with a Mimosa. -- Three + Staple Productions of Cuba. -- Raising Coffee and Tobacco. -- + Best Soils for the Tobacco. -- Agricultural Possibilities. -- + The Cuban Fire-Fly. -- A Much-Dreaded Insect. -- The Ceiba + Tree. -- About Horses and Oxen. + + +The first sugar plantation established in Cuba was in 1595, nearly +three hundred years since. These plantations are the least attractive +in external appearance, but the most profitable pecuniarily, of all +agricultural investments in the tropics, though at the present writing +there is a depression in prices of sugar which has brought about a +serious complication of affairs. The markets of the world have become +glutted with the article, owing to the enormous over-production in +Europe from the beet. The plantations devoted to the raising of the +sugar-cane in Cuba spread out their extensive fields, covered with the +corn-like stalks, without any relief to the eye, though here and there +the graceful feathery branches of the palm are seen. The fields are +divided off into squares of three or four acres each, between which a +roadway is left for ox-teams to pass for gathering purposes. On some +of the largest estates tramways have been laid, reaching from the +several sections of the plantation to the doors of the grinding-mill. +A mule, by this means, is enabled to draw as large a load as a pair +of oxen on plain ground, and with much more ease and promptness. + +About the houses of the owner and the overseer, graceful fruit trees, +such as bananas and cocoanuts, with some flowering and fragrant +plants, are grouped, forming inviting shade and producing a +picturesque effect. Not far away, the low cabins of the blacks are +half hidden by plantain and mango trees, surrounded by cultivated +patches devoted to yams, sweet potatoes, and the like. Some of the +small gardens planted by these dusky Africans showed judgment and +taste in their management. Chickens and pigs, which were the private +property of the negroes, were cooped up just behind the cabins. Many +of these plantations employ from four to five hundred blacks, and in +some instances the number will reach seven hundred on extensive +estates, though the tendency of the new and improved machinery is to +constantly reduce the number of hands required, and to increase the +degree of intelligence necessary in those employed. Added to these +employees there must also be many head of cattle,--oxen, horses, and +mules. The annual running expenditure of one of these large estates +will reach two hundred thousand dollars, more or less, for which +outlay there is realized, under favorable circumstances, a million +five hundred thousand pounds of sugar, worth, in good seasons, five +cents per pound at the nearest shipping point. + +There are a few of the small estates which still employ ox-power for +grinding the cane, but American steam-engines have almost entirely +taken the place of animal power; indeed, as we have shown, it will no +longer pay to produce sugar by the primitive processes. This creates +a constant demand for engineers and machinists, for whom the Cubans +depend upon this country. We were told that there were not less than +two hundred Bostonians at the present time thus engaged on Cuban +estates. A Spaniard or Creole would as soon attempt to fly like a bird +as to learn how to run a steam-engine or regulate a line of shafting. +It requires more intelligence and mechanical skill, as a rule, than +the most faithful slaves possess. A careful calculation shows that in +return for the services of this small band of employees taken from our +shores, this country takes eighty per cent. of all the sugar produced +upon the island! Twelve per cent. is consumed by peninsular Spain, +thus leaving but eight per cent. of this product for distribution +elsewhere. + +During the grinding season, which begins about the first of December +and ends in April, a large, well-managed sugar plantation in Cuba is a +scene of the utmost activity and most unremitting labor. Time is +doubly precious during the harvesting period, for when the cane is +ripe there should be no delay in expressing the juice. If left too +long in the field it becomes crystallized, deteriorating both in its +quality and in the amount of juice which is obtained. The oxen +employed often die before the season is at an end, from overwork +beneath a torrid sun. The slaves are allowed but four or five hours +sleep out of the twenty-four, and being worked by watches during the +night, the mill does not lie idle for an hour after it is started +until the grinding season is closed. If the slaves are thus driven +during this period, throughout the rest of the year their task is +comparatively light, and they may sleep ten hours out of the +twenty-four, if they choose. According to the Spanish slave +code,--always more or less of a dead letter,--the blacks can be kept +at work in Cuba only from sunrise to sunset, with an interval of two +hours for repose and food in the middle of the day. But this is not +regarded in the sugar harvest season, which period, after all, the +slaves do not seem so much to dread, for then they are granted more +privileges and are better fed, given more variety of food and many +other little luxuries which they are known to prize. + +On Sunday afternoons and evenings on most of the plantations the +slaves are given their time, and are permitted, even in the harvest +season, to amuse themselves after their own chosen fashion. On such +occasions the privilege is often improved by the blacks to indulge in +native African dances, crude and rude enough, but very amusing to +witness. The music for the dancers is supplied by a home-made drum, +and by that alone, the negro who plays it being to the lookers-on +quite as much of a curiosity as those who perform the grotesque +dances. This humble musician writhes, wriggles, twists himself like a +corkscrew, and all the while beats time, accompanying his notes with +cries and howls, reminding one of the Apache Indian when engaged in a +war dance. It is astonishing to witness to what a degree of excitement +this negro drummer will work himself up, often fairly frothing at the +mouth. A buxom wench and her mate step forward and perform a wild, +sensuous combination of movements, a sort of negro can-can, like those +dancing girls one sees in India, striving to express sentiments of +love, jealousy, and passion by their pantomime, though these negroes +are far less refined in their gestures. When these two are exhausted, +others take their place, with very similar movements. The same +drummer labors all the while, perspiring copiously, and seeming to get +his full share of satisfaction out of the queer performance. This is +almost their only amusement, though the Chinese coolies who have been +distributed upon the plantations have taught the negroes some of their +queer games, one, particularly, resembling dominoes. The author saw a +set of dominoes made out of native ebony wood by an African slave, +which were of finer finish than machinery turns out, delicately inlaid +with ivory from alligators' teeth, indicating the points upon each +piece. We were told that the only tool the maker had with which to +execute his delicate task was a rude jack-knife. We have said that the +negroes find in the singular dance referred to their one amusement, +but they sometimes engage among themselves in a game of ball, after a +fashion all their own, which it would drive a Yankee base-ball player +frantic to attempt to analyze. + +The sugar-cane yields but one crop in a year. There are several +varieties, but the Otaheitan seems to be the most generally +cultivated. Between the time when enough of the cane is ripe to +warrant the getting-up of steam at the grinding-mill and the time when +the heat and the rain spoil its qualities, all the sugar for the +season must be made; hence the necessity for great industry on the +large estates. In Louisiana the grinding season lasts but about eight +weeks. In Cuba it continues four months. In analyzing the sugar +produced on the island and comparing it with that of the +mainland,--the growth of Louisiana,--chemists could find no difference +as to the quality of the true saccharine principle contained in each. +The Cuban sugar, compared with beet-sugar, however, is said to yield +of saccharine matter one quarter more in any given quantity. + +In society the sugar planter holds a higher rank than the coffee +planter, as we have already intimated; merely in the scale of wealth, +however, for it requires five times the capital to carry on a sugar +estate that would serve for a coffee estate. Some of the large sugar +plantations have been owned and carried on by Jesuit priests--we were +about to write ex-Jesuit priests, but that would not be quite correct, +for once a member of this order one is bound to it for all time. The +priest or acknowledged member of the organization may be forced for +prudential reasons to temporarily change his occupation, but he cannot +sever himself from the responsibilities which he has once voluntarily +assumed. There was a time when much of the landed and fertile property +of the island was controlled by the Church,--in fact owned by it, +though often by very questionable titles. The original owners, under +cunning pressure, perhaps on a threatened death-bed, were induced to +will all to the Church; or as an act of deep penance for some crime +divulged at the confessional, they yielded up all. To preserve this +property and possibly to cause it to produce an income for the Church, +certain priests became active planters. Extreme ecclesiastic rule, as +has been said, is greatly modified in Spain and her colonies, the +natural reaction of the hateful days of the Inquisition. + +As the sugar plantation surpasses the coffee in wealth, so the coffee +estate surpasses the sugar in every natural beauty and attractiveness. +A coffee plantation, well and properly laid out, is one of the most +beautiful gardens that can well be conceived of, in its variety and +loveliness baffling description. An estate devoted to this purpose +usually covers a hundred acres, more or less, planted in regular +squares of one acre or thereabouts, intersected by broad alleys lined +with palms, mangoes, bananas, oranges, and other fruits; as the +coffee, unlike the sugar cane, requires partial protection from the +ardor of the sun. Mingled with the trees are lemons, limes, +pomegranates, Cape jasmines, and a species of wild heliotrope, +fragrant as the morning. Occasionally in the wide reach of the estate +there is seen a solitary, broad-spreading ceiba, in hermit-like +isolation from other trees, but shading a fragrant undergrowth. +Conceive of this beautiful arrangement, and then of the whole when in +flower; the coffee, with its milk-white blossoms, so abundant that it +seems as though a pure white cloud of snow had fallen there, and left +the rest of the vegetation fresh and green. Interspersed in these +fragrant alleys dividing the coffee plants is the red of the Mexican +rose, the flowering pomegranate, the yellow jasmine, and the large, +gaudy flower of the penon, shrouding its parent stem in a cloak of +scarlet. Here too are seen clusters of the graceful yellow flag, and +many wild flowers, unknown by name, entwining their tender stems about +the base of the fruit trees. In short, a coffee plantation is a +perfect floral paradise, full of fragrance and repose. + +The writer's experience was mainly gained at and about the estate of +the late Dr. Finley, a Scotch physician long resident upon the island. +He had named his plantation after the custom with a fancy title, and +called it Buena Esperanza. Here was seen the mignonette tree twenty +feet high, full of pale yellow and green blossoms, as fragrant as is +its little namesake, which we put in our conservatories. There were +also fuchsias, blue, red, yellow, and green, this last hue quite new +to us. The night-blooming cereus was in rank abundance, together with +the flor de pascua, or Easter flower, so lovely in its cream-colored, +wax-like blossom. The Indian poui, with its saffron-colored flowers, +was strikingly conspicuous, and there too was that pleasant little +favorite, the damask rose. It seemed as if all out-doors was an exotic +garden, full of marvelous beauty. What daily miracles nature is +performing under our only half-observant eyes! Behold, where the paths +intersect each other, a beautiful convolvulus has entwined itself +about that dead and decaying tree, clothing the gray old trunk with +pale but lovely flowers; just as we deck our human dead for the grave. + +It was the revolution in San Domingo which gave the first great +stimulus to the culture of the coffee plant in Cuba, an enterprise +which has gradually faded out in the last decade, though not +absolutely obliterated. The refugees from the opposite shore sought +shelter wherever they could find it among the nearest islands of the +Archipelago, and large numbers made their new homes in the eastern +department of Cuba, near the cities of Trinidad and Santiago. Here +they turned lands which had been idle for three and four centuries +into smiling gardens, and the production of the favorite berry became +very profitable for a series of years, many cargoes being shipped +annually to this country from the two ports just named. The production +of sugar, however, has always maintained precedence, dividing the +honor to-day only with tobacco in the manufactured state. Coffee does +not figure to any extent in the statistics of exports. Exorbitant +taxation and the cruel ravages of civil war, in the coffee districts +especially, are largely the cause of the loss of an important and +profitable industry. + +Some amusing experiments with a mimosa or sensitive plant served to +fill a leisure hour at Buena Esperanza, under our host's intelligent +direction. It grew wild and luxuriantly within a few feet of the broad +piazza of the country-house. Close by it was a morning-glory, which +was in remarkable fullness and freshness of bloom, its gay profuseness +of purple, pink, and variegated white making it indeed the glory of +the morning. It was a surprise to find the mimosa of such similar +habits with its neighbor, the morning-glory, regularly folding its +leaves and going to sleep when the shades of evening deepened, but +awaking bright and early with the first breath of the morn. So +sensitive is this most curious plant, so full of nerves, as our host +expressed it, that it would not only shrink instantly, like unveiled +modesty, at the touch of one's hand, but even at the near approach of +some special organisms, ere they had extended a hand towards it. Five +persons tried the experiment before the sixth illustrated the fact +that touch was not absolutely necessary to cause the leaves to shrivel +up or shrink through seeming fear. Our host even intimated that when +the mimosa had become familiar with a congenial person its timidity +would vanish, and it could be handled gently by that individual +without outraging its sensibility. Of this, however, we saw no +positive evidence. If Mr. Darwin had supplemented his chapters on the +monkey by a paper relating to the mimosa, he might possibly have +enabled us to find a mutual confirmation in them of some fine-spun +theory. + +The three great staple productions of Cuba are sugar, the sweetener; +coffee, the tonic; and tobacco, the narcotic of half the world. The +first of these, as we have shown, is the greatest source of wealth, +having also the preference as to purity and excellence over any other +saccharine production. Its manufacture also yields molasses, which +forms an important article of export, besides which a spirituous +liquor, called aguardiente, is distilled in considerable quantities +from the molasses. The cane, which grows to about the size of a large +walking-stick, or well-developed cornstalk, is cut off near the ground +and conveyed in the green state, though it is called ripe, to the +mill, where it is crushed to a complete pulp between stones or iron +rollers. After the juice is thus extracted the material left is spread +out in the sun to dry, and is after being thus "cured" used for fuel +beneath the steam-boilers, which afford both power to the engine and +the means of boiling the juice. Lime-water is employed to neutralize +any free acid as well as to separate the vegetable matter. The +granulation and crystallization are effected in large flat pans, or +now more commonly by centrifugal machines, rotating at great speed. It +is then crushed and packed either in hogsheads or in boxes for +exportation; canvas bags are also being largely employed, as they are +easier to pack on board ship, and also to handle generally. A +plantation is renewed when deemed necessary, by laying the green canes +horizontally in the ground, when new and vigorous shoots spring up +from every joint, showing the great fertility of the soil. + +Coffee was introduced by the French into Martinique in 1727, but it +did not make its appearance in Cuba until forty years later, or, to be +exact, in 1769. The decadence of this branch of agriculture is due +not only to the causes we have already named, but also to the inferior +mode of cultivation adopted on the island. It was predicted some years +before it commenced, and when the crash came the markets of the world +were also found to be greatly overstocked with the article. While some +planters introduced improved methods and economy in the conduct of +their estates, others abandoned the business altogether, and turned +their fields either into sugar-raising, fruits or tobacco. Precisely +the same trouble was experienced in the island of Ceylon, which was at +one time a great coffee-raising centre, but now its planters are many +of them abandoning the business, while others adopt new seed and new +methods of culture. In Cuba it was found that the plants had been +grown too closely together and subjected to too close pruning, while +the product, which was gathered by hand, yielded a mixture of ripe and +unripe berries. In the countries where coffee originated, a very +different method of harvesting is adopted. The Arabs plant the +coffee-shrubs much farther apart, allow them to grow to considerable +height, and gather the crop by shaking the tree, a method which +secures only the ripe berries. After a few weeks, or even days, the +field is gone over a second time, when the green berries have become +fit to gather, and readily fall to the ground. + +A coffee estate well managed, that is, combined with the rearing of +fruits and vegetables intermingled, thus affording the required shade +for the main crop, proves fairly profitable in Cuba to-day, and were +this industry not hampered and handicapped by excessive taxes, it +would attract many new planters. The coffee ripens from August to +December, the nuts then becoming about the size of our cherries. The +coffee-berry is the seed of the fruit, two of which are contained in +each kernel, having their flat surfaces together, surrounded by a soft +pulp. The ripe berries are dried by exposure to the sun's rays, then +bruised in a mill, by which means the seeds are separated from the +berry. They are then screened to cleanse them, after which they are +bagged, and the coffee is ready for market. Some planters take great +care to sort their crop by hand, in which operation the negro women +become very expert. By dividing the berries into first and second +qualities as to size and cleanliness, a better aggregated price is +realized for the entire harvest. Not only are the coffee estates much +more pleasing to the eye than the sugar plantations, but they are also +much more in harmony with the feelings of the philanthropist. There is +here no such exigency in getting in the harvest, leading to the +overwork of the slaves, as on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +Indeed, we were assured that it was quite possible to carry on a +coffee estate with white labor. When, heretofore, a negro has been +brought to the block in Havana, or any other Cuban city, the price +realized for him has always been materially affected by the question +whether he had been employed on a sugar estate in the grinding season. +If he had been thus employed it was considered that his life has been +unduly shortened, and he sold accordingly at a lower price. At the +present time few negroes are bought or sold, as their market value has +become merely nominal. There is no good reason why white labor is not +suited to the coffee and tobacco estates. When the field labor upon +the sugar estates is almost wholly performed by machinery, that is, +the cane cut by a reaper, there will be so much less exposure to the +sun that white hands, under proper management, can perform it. + +Tobacco, indigenous to both Cuba and the United States, is a great +source of revenue upon the island. Its cultivation involves +considerable labor and expense, as the soil must be carefully chosen +and prepared, and the crop is an exhaustive one to the land; but the +cultivation does not require machinery, like sugar-cane, nor quite so +much care as does the growing coffee. It is valued in accordance with +the locality from which it comes, some sections being especially +adapted to its production. That of the greatest market value, and used +in the manufacture of the highest-cost cigars, is grown in the most +westerly division of the island, known as the Vuelta de Abajo (Lower +Valley). The whole western portion of Cuba is not by any means +suitable to the production of tobacco. The region of the best tobacco +is comprised within a small parallelogram of very limited extent. +Beyond this, up to the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine +color, but of inferior aroma. From Consolacion to San Christoval the +tobacco is very "hot,"--to use a local phrase,--harsh, and strong, and +from San Christoval to Guanajay the quality is inferior up to Holguin +y Cuba, where better tobacco is produced. The fertile valley of Los +Guines produces poor smoking-tobacco, but an article excellent for the +manufacture of snuff. On the banks of the Rio San Sebastian, are also +some estates which produce the very best quality of tobacco. Thus +it will be seen that certain properties of soil operate more directly +in producing a fine grade of tobacco than any slight variation of +climate. Possibly a chemical analysis of the soil of the Vuelta de +Abajo would enable the intelligent cultivator to supply to other lands +the ingredients wanted to make them produce equally good tobacco. A +fairly marketable article, however, is grown in nearly any part of the +island. Its cultivation is thought to produce a full ten per cent. +upon the capital invested, the annual crop of Cuba being estimated in +value at about twenty-three million dollars. The number of tobacco +planters is said to be about fifteen thousand, large and small. On +many tobacco farms the labor is nearly all performed by white hands. +Some coolies and some negroes are also employed even on small estates. + +When it is remembered that so small a portion of the land is under +cultivation, and yet that Cuba exports annually a hundred million +dollars worth of sugar and molasses, besides coffee, tobacco, fruits, +and precious woods, it will be realized what might be accomplished, +under a liberal system of government, upon this gem of the Caribbean +Sea. Cacao, rice, plantains, indigo, and cotton, besides Indian corn +and many nutritious vegetables, might be profitably cultivated to a +much larger degree than is now done. It is a curious and remarkable +fact, suggesting a striking moral, that with the inexhaustible +fertility of the soil, with an endless summer that gives the laborer +two and even three crops a year, agriculture generally yields in Cuba +a lower percentage of profit than in our stern Northern latitudes, +where the farmer has to wrench, as it were, the half-reluctant crop +from the ground. It must be remembered that in Cuba there are numerous +fruits and vegetables not enumerated in these pages, which do not +enter into commerce, and which spring spontaneously from the fertile +soil. In the possession of a thrifty population the island would be +made to blossom like a rose, but as it now is, it forms only a garden +growing wild, cultivated here and there in patches. None of the fine +natural fruits have ever been improved by careful culture and the +intelligent selection of kinds, so that in many respects they will not +compare in perfection with our average strawberries, plums, pears, and +peaches. Their unfulfilled possibilities remain to be developed by +intelligent treatment. + +The plantain, which may be said to be the bread of the common people, +requires to be planted but once. The stem bears freely, like the +banana of the same family, at the end of eight months, and then +withering to the ground renews itself again from the roots. Sweet +potatoes once planted require care only to prevent their too great +luxuriance, and for this purpose a plough is passed through them +before the wet season, and as many of the vines as can be freely +plucked up are removed from the field. The sugar-cane, on virgin soil, +will last and prove productive for twenty years. The coffee shrub or +tree will bear luxuriantly for forty or fifty years. The cocoanut palm +is peculiar to all tropical climates, and in Cuba, as in the Malacca +Straits and India, bears an important share in sustaining the life of +the people, supplying milk, shade, and material for a hundred domestic +uses. It grows in luxuriant thriftiness all over the island, in high +and low land, in forests, and down to the very shore washed by the +Gulf Stream. It is always graceful and picturesque, imparting an +oriental aspect to everything which surrounds it. It is estimated +that over ten million acres of native forests, covered by valuable +wood, still remain untouched by the woodman's axe, especially on and +about the mountain range, which extends nearly the entire length of +the island, like the vertebrae of an immense whale. + +About the coffee plantations, and indeed throughout the rural portions +of the country, there is a curious little insect called a cocuyo, +answering in its general characteristics and nature to our firefly, +though it is quadruple its size, and far the most brilliant insect of +its kind known to naturalists. They float in phosphorescent clouds +over the vegetation, emitting a lurid halo, like fairy torch-bearers +to elfin crews. One at first sight is apt to compare them to a shower +of stars. They come in multitudes immediately after the wet season +sets in, prevailing more or less, however, all the year round. Their +advent is always hailed with delight by the slave children, as well as +by children of a larger growth. They are caught by the slaves in any +desired numbers and confined in tiny cages of wicker, giving them +sufficient light in their cabins at night for ordinary purposes, and +forming the only artificial light permitted them. We have seen a +string of the little cages containing the glittering insects hung in a +slave-cabin in festoons, like colored lamps in fancy-goods stores in +America. The effect of the evanescent light thus produced is very +peculiar, but the number of insects employed insures a sufficiently +steady effect for ordinary purposes. These little creatures are +brought into Havana by young Creole children and by women, for sale to +the ladies, who sometimes in the evenings wear a small cage hung to +the wrist containing a few of the cocuyos, and the light thus produced +is nearly equal to a small candle. Some ladies wear a belt of them at +night, ingeniously fastened about the waist, others a necklace, and +the effect is highly amusing. In the ballroom they are worn in the +flounces of ladies' dresses, where they glisten very much like +diamonds and other precious stones. Strange to say, there is a natural +hook near the head of the firefly, by which it can be attached to the +dress without apparent injury to it. The town ladies keep little cages +of these insects as pets, feeding them on sugar, of which they appear +to be immoderately fond. On the plantations, when a fresh supply is +desired, one has only to wait until evening, when hundreds can be +secured with a thread net at the end of a pole. By holding a cocuyo up +in the out-door air for a few moments, large numbers are at once +attracted to the spot. In size they are about an inch long, and a +little over an eighth of an inch in breadth. + +There is an insidious and much dreaded insect with which the planters +have to contend on the sugar and coffee plantations, but which is not +met with in the cities; namely, the red ant, a much more formidable +foe than any one not acquainted with its ravages would believe. These +little creatures possess a power altogether out of proportion to their +insignificant size, eating into the heart of the hardest wood, neither +cedar, iron-wood, nor even lignum-vitae being proof against them. They +are not seen at the surface, as they never touch the outer shell of +the wood whose heart they are consuming. A beam or rafter which has +been attacked by them looks as good as when new, to the casual +observer, until it is sounded and found to be hollow, a mere shell in +fact. Even in passing from one piece of timber to another, the red +ant does so by covered ways, and is thus least seen when most busy. +The timbers of an entire roof have been found hollowed out and +deprived entirely of their supporting strength without the presence of +the insect enemy being even suspected until chance betrayed the +useless character of the supports. For some unknown reason, upright +timbers are rarely attacked by them, but those in a reclining or +horizontal position are their choice. These destructive red ants are +nearly always to be found in tropical countries, as in India, Batavia, +and Sumatra, where they build mounds in the jungle half the size of +the natives' cabins. They may be seen marching like an invading army +in columns containing myriads across the fields of southern India. + +The interior landscape, more particularly of the middle district of +the island, is here and there ornamented by fine specimens of the +ceiba, or silk-cotton tree, which is often seen a hundred feet in +height, with stout and widespread branches, giving the idea of great +firmness and stability. It sends up a massive sinewy trunk for some +fifty feet, when it divides into branches covered with a dense canopy +of leaves, expanded like an umbrella, and forming a perfect shade +against the power of the torrid sun. The ceiba is slow of growth, but +attains to great age, specimens thriving when Columbus first landed +here being, as we were assured, still extant. Next to the royal palm, +it is the most remarkable of all the trees which loom up beneath the +brilliant purple skies of Cuba. The negroes have a superstition that +the ceiba is a magic tree haunted by spirits, a singular notion also +shared by the colored people of Nassau, though these two islands are +so many hundreds of miles apart and have never had any natural +connection. There is certainly something weird in the loneliness and +solitary grandeur of the tree. Next to the palm and ceiba in beauty +and picturesqueness of effect is the tamarind tree, with its deep +green and delicate foliage, presenting a singular and curious aspect +when thickly looped on every branch with hanging chocolate-colored +pods. + +Under the noonday sun, sitting in the deep shade of some lofty ceiba, +one may watch with curious eyes the myriads of many-hued, broad-winged +butterflies, mingling orange, crimson, and steel-blue in dazzling +combinations, as they flit through the ambient atmosphere with a +background of shining, evergreen foliage, the hum of insects and the +carol of birds forming a soft lullaby inviting sleep. Naturalists tell +us that no less than three hundred distinct species of butterflies are +found in Cuba, ranging in size from a common house-fly to a +humming-bird. The day dies with a suddenness almost startling, so that +one passes from sunshine to starlight as if by magic. Then the cocuyo +takes up the activity of insect life, flashing its miniature torches +over the plantations, and peeping out from among the dense foliage, +while the stars sing their evening hymn of silent praise. + +The Cubans have a peculiar mode of harnessing their oxen, similar to +that seen in the far East and also in some parts of Europe, as at San +Sebastian, on the Bay of Biscay. A stout wooden bar is placed at the +root of the horns, and so securely bound to them with thongs that the +animal draws, or rather pushes, by the head and frontlet, without +chafing. The Cuban oxen have a hole pierced in their nostrils, through +which a metallic ring is secured, and to this a rope is attached, +serving as reins with which to guide the animal. This mode of +harnessing certainly seems to enable the oxen to bring more strength +to bear upon the purpose for which they are employed than when the +yoke is placed, as is the case with us, about the throat and +shoulders. The greatest power of horned animals undoubtedly lies in +the head and neck, and the question arises whether in placing the yoke +on the neck and breast we do not get it out of reach of the exercise +of that strength, and cause the animal to draw the load behind him by +the mere force of his bodily weight and impetus. The West Indian +animal is small, and often of the cream-colored breed, mild-eyed and +docile, of which one sees such choice specimens in Italy and +especially on the plains of Lombardy. + +Not quite satisfied with the conclusion first arrived at, we gave this +subject of the harnessing of oxen a second consideration, and in +carefully watching the operation of the frontlet-bar we detected at +least one very cruel and objectionable feature in this mode of +harnessing. The animals are necessarily so bound to the bar that to +move their heads one way or the other is a simple impossibility, while +our mode of yoking oxen leaves them very much at liberty in the use of +their heads, thus enabling them to shake off flies and other biting +insects which may tease them, whereas the eyes of a Cuban ox are often +seen infested with flies which he cannot get rid of while in harness, +however he may be beset by them. This alone, in a climate where biting +insects swarm all the year round, is a most serious objection to the +frontlet-bar as compared with the yoke. + +The Cuban horse deserves more than a mere mention in this connection. +He is a remarkably valuable animal, especially adapted to the climate +and to the service required of him. Though small and delicate of limb +he can carry a great weight, and his gait is not unlike that of our +pacing horses, though with much less lateral motion, and is remarkably +easy for the rider, certainly forming the easiest gait combined with +rapidity of motion possessed by any breed. He has great power of +endurance, is a small eater, requiring no grain as a general thing, +but is satisfied with the green leaves and stalks of the corn, upon +which he keeps in good condition and flesh. He is a docile little +creature, easily taught and easily taken care of. The Cuban horse +knows no shelter except the heavens above him, for there are no barns +in Cuba; but he will no more wander away from his master's door, where +he stands at nearly all hours of the day with the saddle on his back, +than would a favorite dog. The Montero inherits all the love of his +Moorish ancestors for the horse, and never stirs abroad except upon +his back. He considers himself established for life when he possesses +a good horse, a sharp Toledo blade, and a pair of silver spurs. Being +from childhood accustomed to the saddle, it is natural for him to be a +good rider, and there are none better even in Arabia. He is apt to +tell big stories about his little horse, intimating its descent direct +from the Kochlani, or King Solomon's breed, and to endow it with +marvelous qualities of speed and endurance. The Montero is never heard +to boast of his wife, his children, or any other possession, but he +does "blow" for his horse. + +One of this class stood beside his pony one warm afternoon opposite +the Hotel Telegrafo, where a few of the guests were seated under the +broad veranda. The sleek, well-formed animal elicited some +complimentary remarks, which gratified the owner, who spoke English +after the style of his people. He indulged in praises of the horse, +especially as to the ease and steadiness of his gait, and offered a +bet that he could ride round the outside of the Campo de Marte on him +and return to the spot where he stood, at ordinary speed, carrying a +full glass of water without spilling a tablespoonful of the liquid; +such is the ease of motion of these animals trained to what is called +the paso gualtrapeo. Four corners were to be turned by the Cuban, as +well as half a mile of distance accomplished. The small bet suggested +was readily taken, and the full tumbler of water brought out of the +house. The Cuban mounted his pony and rode round the park with the +speed of a bird, easily winning his bet. + +The visitor, as he proceeds inland, will frequently observe on the +fronts of the dwellings attempts at representations in colors of birds +and various animals, resembling anything rather than what they are +apparently designed to depict. The most striking characteristics are +the gaudy coloring and the remarkable size. Pigeons present the +colossal appearance of ostriches, and dogs are exceedingly elephantine +in their proportions. Space would not be adequate to picture horses +and cattle. Especially in the suburbs of the cities this fancy may be +observed, where attempts at portraying domestic scenes present some +original ideas as to grouping. If such ludicrous objects were to be +met with anywhere else but in Cuba they would be called caricatures. +Here they are regarded with the utmost complacency, and innocently +considered to be artistic and ornamental. Noticing something of the +same sort in Vevay, Switzerland, not long since, the author found on +inquiry that it was the incipient art effort of a Spanish Creole, who +had wandered thither from the island. + +The policy of the home government has been to suppress, so far as +possible, all knowledge of matters in general relating to Cuba; +especially to prevent the making public of any statistical information +regarding the internal resources, all accounts of its current growth, +prosperity, or otherwise. Rigidly-enforced rules accomplished this +seclusiveness for many years, until commercial relations with the +"outside barbarians" rendered this no longer possible. No official +chart of Havana, its harbor, or that of any other Cuban city has ever +been made public. Spain has seemed to desire to draw a curtain before +this tropical jewel, lest its dazzling brightness should tempt the +cupidity of some other nation. Notwithstanding this, our war +department at Washington contains complete drawings of every important +fortification, and charts of every important harbor in Cuba. Since +1867 we have been connected with Cuba by submarine cable, and through +her with Jamaica since 1870. The local government exercises, however, +strict surveillance over telegraphic communications. + +The political condition of Cuba is what might be expected of a +Castilian colony, ruled and governed by such a policy as prevails +here. Like the home government, she presents a remarkable instance of +the standstill policy, and from one of the most powerful and wealthy +kingdoms of Europe, Spain has sunk to the position of the humblest and +poorest. Other nations have labored and succeeded in the race of +progress, while her adherence to ancient institutions and her +dignified contempt for "modern innovations" have become a species of +retrogression, which has placed her far below all her sister +governments. The true Hidalgo spirit, which wraps itself up in an +antique garb and shrugs its shoulders at the advance of other nations, +still rules over the realm of Ferdinand and Isabella, while its +high-roads swarm with gypsies and banditti, as tokens of decaying +power. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Consumption of Tobacco. -- The Delicious Fruits of the + Tropics. -- Individual Characteristics of Cuban Fruits. -- + The Royal Palm. -- The Mulberry Tree. -- Silk Culture. -- The + Island once covered by Forests. -- No Poisonous Reptiles. -- + The Cuban Bloodhound. -- Hotbed of African Slavery. -- + Spain's Disregard of Solemn Treaties. -- The Coolie System of + Slavery. -- Ah-Lee draws a Prize. -- Native African Races. -- + Negroes buying their Freedom. -- Laws favoring the Slaves. -- + Example of St. Domingo. -- General Emancipation. + + +The consumption of tobacco in the form of cigars is almost incredibly +large in Cuba, and for the city of Havana alone it has been estimated +to amount to an aggregate cost of five million dollars per annum. +Every man, woman, and child appears to be addicted to the habit. It +strikes a Northerner as rather odd for a lady to sit smoking her +cigarette in her parlor, but this is not at all rare. The men of all +degrees smoke everywhere, in the dwelling-house, in the street, in the +theatre, in the cafes, and in the counting-room; eating, drinking, +and truly it would also seem, sleeping, they smoke, smoke, smoke. At +the tables d'hote of the hotels it is not unusual to see a Cuban take +a few whiffs of a cigarette between the several courses, and lights +are burning close at hand to enable him to do so. If a party of +gentlemen are invited to dine together, the host so orders that a +packet of the finest cigarettes is frequently passed to his guests, +with a lighted taper, in the course of the meal, and at its close some +favorite brand of the more substantial cigar is furnished to all. +Thus, tobacco is consumed on every occasion, in the council-chamber, +the court, at funerals, in the domestic circles, at feasts, and on the +out-door drive. The slave and his master, the maid and her mistress, +boy and man, all, all smoke. It seems odd that one does not scent +Havana far out at sea before the land is sighted. + +We were told that gentlemen who have the means to procure them smoke +on an average what is equivalent to a dozen cigars per day, and those +of the other sex addicted to the habit consume half that quantity. Of +late the larger proportion, however, takes the form of cigarettes, +which are far more subtle in effect when used to excess. The +consequence of this large home consumption, in addition to the export +of the article, is that a very numerous class of the population is +engaged in the manufacture, and little stores devoted solely to this +business are plentifully sprinkled all about the metropolis. The +imperial factory of La Honradez, already described, occupies a whole +city square, and is one of its curiosities, producing from three to +four million cigarettes per diem. This house enjoys special +governmental protection, and makes its annual contribution to the +royal household of Madrid of the best of its manufactured goods. A +snuff-taker is rarely to be met with, and few, if any, chew the weed, +if we except the stevedores and foreign sailors to be seen about the +shore and shipping. Havana has no wharves, properly speaking; vessels +are loaded and discharged by means of lighters or scows. The negroes +become passionately fond of the pipe, inhaling into their lungs the +rich, powerful narcotic and driving it out again at their nostrils in +slow, heavy clouds, half dozing over the dreamy effect. The postilion +who waits for a fare upon the street passes half his time in this way, +dreaming over his pipe of pure Havana, or renewing constantly his +cigarette. The price of manufactured tobacco in Cuba is about one half +that which we pay for the same article in America, either at wholesale +or retail, as shipping expenses, export duty, and import duty must be +added to the price charged to the consumer. + +In discussing this habit one naturally looks back about four hundred +years, recalling the amazement of the Spanish discoverers, when they +first landed here, at seeing the Indians smoking a native weed which +was called tobacco. The practice was, at that time, entirely unknown +in Europe, though now indulged in as a luxury by nearly half the +population of the globe. + +We have only a partial idea at the North of the true character of +tropical fruits, since only a small portion of them are of such a +nature as to admit of exportation, and such as are forwarded to us +must be gathered in an unripe condition in order to survive a short +sea-voyage. The orange which we eat in Boston or New York, therefore, +is a very different-flavored fruit from the same when partaken of in +Havana or Florida. The former has been picked green and ripened on +shipboard, as a general thing; the latter was perhaps on the tree an +hour before you ate it, ripened under its native skies and upon its +parent stem. So of the banana, one of the most delightful and +nutritious of all West Indian fruits, which grows everywhere in Cuba +with prodigal profuseness,--though we are told that as regards this +fruit it is claimed that, like some varieties of our pear, it ripens +as well off the tree as on it; and the same is the case with some +other fleshy fruits. After the banana has attained its full growth, +the final process of ripening commences, as it were, within itself; +that is to say, the fruit ceases to depend upon the tree for +sustenance or farther development. The pulp becomes gradually +sweetened and softened, chiefly by the change of the starch into more +or less of soluble sugar. When the bananas are shipped to our Northern +markets they are as green as the leaves of the trees on which they +grew. Most of us have seen cartloads of them in this condition landing +at our city wharves. Placed in an even temperature and in darkness +they will ripen and become as yellow as gold in a very few days. + +The banana and plantain differ from each other much as an apple and a +potato differ; the latter should always be cooked before eating, but +the former may be either eaten raw or cooked, according to the taste. +The banana is gathered at three different stages of its growth. At a +quarter of its maturity it is rather milky, and contains much starch. +Roasted in ashes, or boiled in water, it forms a very nourishing food, +and is a good substitute for bread. If eaten at three fourths of its +growth it is less nourishing, but contains more sugar. Lastly, when +perfectly ripe, it develops an acrid principle, both wholesome and +palatable. The fig banana is a favorite species, and forms a universal +dessert in the ripe state with the Creoles. A frequent reference is +made to it in these notes because of its importance. The enormous +productiveness of the plant and its nutritious character assure to the +humble classes an abundant subsistence. People may go freely into the +wild lands and find edible bananas at any time, without money and +without price. In the cities the charge for them is so moderate that a +person must be poor indeed who cannot afford a liberal quantity of +them daily. + +Some of the other fruits are the mango, pomegranate, pineapple, +zapota, tamarind, citron, fig, cocoa, lemon, rose-apple, and +breadfruit. Japan, India, and Ceylon afford nothing more fascinating +or strange in their vegetable kingdoms than this favored isle. The +fruits are simply wonderful in variety and perfection. One eats eggs, +custard, and butter off the trees. Though all these fruits are +universally eaten, the orange seems to be the Creole's favorite, and +if he be a person of even ordinary means, he seldom rises in the +morning until he has drunk his cup of coffee and eaten a couple of +oranges, brought fresh and prepared for him by a servant. The practice +is one into which the visitor falls very pleasantly, and finds it no +less refreshing than agreeable. It seems to rain oranges in Havana. +They are scarcely less cheap than the luscious banana. + +The rose-apple grows on one of the most symmetrical trees in Cuba, +with strong, oval, glossy leaves. The blossoms are large, white, and +of pleasant odor, followed by a round fruit about as large as a +well-developed California peach, with a smooth skin, cream-colored +within and without. The pulp is as firm as a ripe seckel pear, and the +taste is so strong of otto-of-rose that more than one at a time palls +upon the palate. It is much used among the Cubans as an agreeable +flavoring for soups and puddings. Of the fruit trees the lemon is +perhaps the most attractive to the eye; for though small and dwarfish, +yet it presents the flowers, small green lemons, and the ripe yellow +fruit all together, reminding one of the Eastern alma. The green +leaves when young are nearly as fragrant as the lemon verbena. + +The mammee is a curious fruit growing on lofty, umbrageous trees, +appearing as musk-melons would look if seen hanging in elm-trees. +Large and high-flavored, the fruit is solid in texture like the +American quince. The flavor of the mammee resembles our peach, though +not quite so delicate. Its color when ripe is a light yellow. + +The mango is nearly as abundant and prolific as the banana, and yet it +came originally from the far East. It grows upon a very handsome tree, +the leaves being long, lanceolate, polished, and hanging in dense +masses of dark-green foliage. In size it is like a full-grown New +England apple tree. The mango is about thrice the size of an egg plum, +and when ripe is yellow in color, and grows in long pendant bunches. +When this fruit is at its best it is very juicy, and may be sucked +away like a grape. The negroes are immoderately fond of it, and when +permitted to do so are apt to make themselves ill by their greediness. + +The cocoa-nut tree grows to the height of fifty feet and more, +differing from the royal palm by its drooping nature. At its summit is +a waving tuft of dark green, glossy, pinnate leaves, from ten to +fifteen feet in length, like mammoth plumes, immediately under which +are suspended the nuts in heavy bunches, often weighing three hundred +pounds. When the nut has attained nearly its full size, it is said to +be in the milk, and it then furnishes a delightful, cooling, and +healthful beverage. In taste it is sweetish, and its effect is that of +a slight diuretic. + +The sapotilla is a noble fruit tree, with feathery, glossy leaves. The +blossoms are white and bell-shaped, with an agreeable perfume like an +apple-blossom. The fruit is round, about the size of a peach, the +skin being rough and dark like a russet apple or a potato, but when +fully ripe it is delicious, and melts away in the mouth like a +custard. + +The pineapple, that king of fruits, though in itself presenting such a +fine appearance, is the plainest of all in its humble manner of +growth. It is found wild in Cuba, and there are several varieties +cultivated, none quite equal, it seemed to us, to those found in +Singapore and other equatorial islands. Its style of growth is the +same in either hemisphere. It grows singly upon its low stem, reaching +to a height of eighteen or twenty inches above the ground. A single +fruit-stem pushes up from the earth, blossoms, and in about eighteen +months from the planting it matures a single apple, weighing three or +four pounds and upwards; and what a royal fruit it is! A field well +covered with the yellow, ripening apples is a very beautiful sight. +Though the plant produces but one apple at a time, it will continue to +yield an annual crop for three or four years, if cultivated. It is +raised from slips, planted much as our farmers set out young cabbages +or lettuce. + +The custard-apple grows wild, but is also cultivated and thereby much +improved. Its color externally is green, and it has a tough skin, is +of a subacid flavor, and as full of little flat black seeds as a shad +is of bones. It is much used in Cuba for flavoring purposes, and is +soft and juicy, each specimen weighing from a pound to a pound and a +half. The star-apple is so called because when cut through +transversely its centre presents the figure of a star. Even when quite +ripe the interior is green in color. Its flavor is exquisite, like +strawberries and cream, and it is eaten with a spoon, the outside +skin forming as it were a shell or cup. + +The guava tree is small and resembles our young cherry trees. The +fruit is about the size of the lime, which it much resembles. It is +made little use of in its natural condition, but is in universal +demand as a preserve; the jelly made from it is famous all over the +world. When it is freshly cut, one will scent a whole room for hours +with its distinctive flavor. + +The pomegranate, a general favorite in the torrid zone, flourishes in +Cuba, but is seen in much greater perfection in Africa. It is doubtful +if it is indigenous here, though it is now found in such abundance, +and as much depended upon for a food supply as apples are with us. +Doubtless the reader has seen the bush in bearing in our hothouses, +the fruit when cut being full of red seeds glistening like rubies. + +The tamarind is a universal and thrifty tree in the island, lofty and +umbrageous, a quick grower and yet long-lived. The fruit is contained +in a pod,--like a full, ripe pea-pod,--covering mahogany-colored +seeds. The pulp when ripe and fresh is as soft as marmalade, and quite +palatable; its flavor is sugared acid. Steeped in water it forms a +delightful and cooling beverage, much used as a drink in the tropics. + +The orange, lime, lemon, and citron are too well known to require +detailed description. The wild or bitter orange is much used for +hedges: its deep green glossy foliage and its fragrant blossoms and +its golden fruit make such hedges strikingly effective. The rind of +the bitter orange is used to make a sweetmeat with which we are all +familiar. + +More than once the Moorish garden of the Alcazar, at Seville, and the +garden of Hesperides, at Cannes, were recalled in hours of delightful +wanderings among the orange groves of Cuba. Yet these latter are +neglected, or at least not generously cultivated, no such care being +given to them as is bestowed upon the orange orchards of Florida; but +the glowing sun and ardent breath of the tropics ask little aid from +the hand of man in perfecting their products. The fruits and flowers +of the American Archipelago--"air-woven children of light"--are not +only lavishly prolific, but perfect of their kind. No wonder that +scientists and botanists become poetical in their descriptions of +these regions. + +The royal palm, so often alluded to, grows to the height of seventy +feet, more or less. It is singular that it should have no substance in +the interior of its trunk, though the outside to the thickness of a +couple of inches makes the finest of boards, and when seasoned is so +hard as to turn a board-nail at a single stroke of the hammer. It is +remarkable also that a palm tree which grows so high has such tiny, +thread-like roots, which, however, are innumerable. The top of the +palm yields a vegetable which is used as food and when boiled is +nutritious and palatable, resembling our cauliflower. Though there are +many species of palm in Cuba, one seldom sees the fan-palm, which +forms such a distinctive feature in equatorial regions as at Penang +and Singapore. + +Humboldt thought that the entire island was once a forest of palms, +mingled with lime and orange trees. The mulberry tree, if not +indigenous, was found here at so early a period that it is a matter of +doubt as to its having been imported from other lands. It grows to +great perfection, and has led to several attempts in the direction of +silk-raising, the silkworm also proving more prolific even than in +Japan. Some of the fine, hard fancy woods of Cuba were employed in the +finish of apartments in the Escurial palace near Madrid. Ebony, +rosewood, fustic, lancewood, mahogany, and other choice woods are very +abundant, especially the mahogany, which grows to enormous size. The +exportation of them has only taken place where these woods were best +located for river transportation to harbors on the coast. The interior +of the island is so inaccessible that it has hardly been explored. +There are fertile valleys there of two hundred miles in length and +thirty in width, with an average temperature of 75 deg., a maximum of 88 deg., +and a minimum of 52 deg., thus affording a most perfect and healthful +climate, favorable to human and to vegetable life, and it should be +remembered that malarial diseases or yellow fever are unknown in the +districts removed from the coast, and no one ever heard of sunstroke +in Cuba. + +It is somewhat remarkable that there should be no poisonous animals or +reptiles in the island, but so we were creditably informed. Snakes of +various species abound, but are considered entirely harmless, though +they are sometimes destructive to domestic fowls. During a pleasant +trip between San Antonio and Alquizar in a volante with a hospitable +planter of that region, this subject happened to be under discussion, +when we saw in the roadway a snake six or eight feet long, and as +large round as the middle of one's arm. On pointing it out to our +friend, he merely told us its species, and declared that a child might +sleep with it unharmed. In the mean time it was a relief to see the +innocent creature hasten to secrete itself in a lime hedge close at +hand. Lizards, tarantulas, and chameleons are frequently seen, but +are considered to be harmless. One often awakes in the morning to see +lizards upon his chamber wall, searching for flies and insects, upon +which they feed. + +The Cuban bloodhound, of which we hear so much, is not a native of the +island, but belongs to an imported breed, resembling the English +mastiff, though with larger head and limbs. He is by nature a fierce, +bloodthirsty animal, but the particular qualities which fit him for +tracing the runaway slaves are almost entirely acquired by careful +training. This is accomplished by experts in the business, who are +sometimes Monteros, and sometimes French overseers of plantations who +are out of work or regular engagement. Each estate keeps some of these +dogs as a precautionary measure, but they are seldom called into use +of late, for so certain is the slave that he will be instantly +followed as soon as missed, and inevitably traced by the hounds, that +he rarely attempts to escape from his master unless under some +peculiarly aggravating cause. It may even be doubted whether a slave +would be pursued to-day were he to attempt to escape, because slavery +is so very near its last gasp. In one respect this is an advantage to +the negroes, since the master, feeling this indifference, grants the +blacks more freedom of action. So perfect of scent is the Cuban +bloodhound that the master has only to obtain a bit of clothing left +behind by the runaway and give it to the hound to smell. The dog will +then follow the slave through a whole population of his class, and +with his nose to the ground lead straight to his hiding-place. + +For three centuries Cuba has been the hotbed of African slavery. Few, +if any, have been imported during the last thirty years, that is to +say since 1855, during which year some cargoes were successfully run. +In 1816, the Spanish government, in a solemn treaty, declared its +conviction of the injustice of the slave trade. On the 23d of +September, 1817, in consideration of four hundred thousand pounds +sterling paid as an equivalent by Great Britain, Spain ratified a +treaty proclaiming that the slave trade should cease throughout all +the dominions of that country on the 30th day of May, 1820, and that +it should not afterwards be lawful for any Spanish subject to purchase +slaves. It was further declared by the home government that all blacks +brought from Africa subsequent to that date should be at once set +free, and the vessel on which they were transported should be +confiscated, while the captain, crew, and others concerned should be +punished with ten years' penal servitude. Yet, as all the world knows, +this was nothing more than a dead letter so far as Cuba was concerned, +and so late as 1845, statistics show an arrival of imported slaves +from Africa of fifteen thousand negroes annually, for the previous +twenty years. Tacon, Governor-General from June, 1834, until April, +1838, like his predecessors and successors made no secret of receiving +seventeen dollars per head,--that is one doubloon,--on every slave +landed. Other officials spent their fees on themselves or hoarded them +for a fortune to be enjoyed on returning home to Spain, but Tacon +expended his in beautifying Havana and its environs. That the home +government secretly fostered the slave trade, notwithstanding the +solemn treaty entered into with Great Britain, no one pretends to +deny. + +The coolie system, which was latterly substituted for that of the +importation of Africans, was commenced in 1847, but it was only +slavery under another form, being in point of humanity even more +objectionable. Fully seventy per cent. of the Chinese coolies died +during the eight years they were bound by their contract to serve +their masters! Even after that period was completed, unjust laws and +schemes were adopted to retain their services whenever the planters +desired it; but the truth is, the planters, after a thorough +experience, were generally glad to get rid of the Mongolians. All of +them were decoyed from home under false pretenses and large promises, +and only arrived in Cuba to find themselves virtually slaves. But +there was no help for them. They were thousands of miles from China, +in a land of whose language they knew nothing, and so they were +obliged to submit. If after their term of service expired they +succeeded in reaching Havana, or other Cuban cities, and by becoming +fruit peddlers or engaging in any other occupation tried to earn +sufficient money to carry them back to their native land, they still +were brutally treated by all parties, and were ever at the mercy of +the venal police. On the plantations they received perhaps a little +more consideration than the blacks, simply because they were less +tractable and more dangerous on account of their greater degree of +intelligence and keener sense of the wrong done them. The planter, +always short of laborers, has heretofore been willing to pay the +shipping-agencies four hundred dollars for a newly-arrived coolie, +whose services he thus secured for eight years, the coolies at the +expiration of the period to receive a mere nominal sum, out of which +they have mostly been cheated by some means or other. The whole +business of coolie importation is vile beyond measure, and must have +included in its aggregate over three hundred thousand Chinese. There +are still believed to be some sixty thousand left upon the island, +most of whom remain because they have no means of returning to their +native land. Half of these subsist by begging. Broken in health and +spirits, they await the coming of that final liberator who is the last +friend of suffering humanity. + +The Chinese are best adapted to the work of the cigar factories, where +they excel in the occupation of cigar and cigarette making, and many +hundreds are thus employed in Havana. But they are totally unfit for +plantation labor, under the hardships of which their feeble frames +succumb. They prove themselves very good servants in the cities, being +very quick to learn, and ready to adapt themselves to any light +occupation. A Chinaman is sly, cunning, and, to a certain degree, +enterprising; but he must be trusted cautiously. As a house-servant, +footman, cook, or waiter he is admirable. Here, in this to him foreign +land, he cannot suppress his instinct for gambling; it seems to be +born in him, and he will often lose in an hour the hard accumulation +of months, or even years. As to the lottery, he is always the +purchaser of portions of tickets at every drawing, and occasionally +becomes a winner. A thrifty Chinaman, for there are some such even in +Havana, bearing the characteristic name of Ah-Lee, connected with a +bricabrac store on the Calzada de la Reina, held a lucky number in the +lottery drawn during our brief stay at the Hotel Telegrafo. When the +prizes were announced, he found that he was entitled to five hundred +dollars. The agents tried to pay Ah-Lee in Cuban currency, but he was +too smart for them, and showed them their own announcement promising +to cash all prizes, with the usual discount, in gold. So Ah-Lee got +his prize finally in gold. We were told by one whose experience was +extensive, and whose testimony was worthy of respect, that the coolies +would lie and steal with such apparent innocence as to deceive the +most wary, and that as regards their moral nature it seemed to be +totally undeveloped. For our own part we still sympathize with John. +He has been so outrageously cheated and abused from the hour when he +stepped on board the transport ship which brought him from China up to +the present time that he has learned the trick of it. If he is not +strong enough to demand his rights, we certainly hope that he may have +sufficient cunning to obtain them by outwitting his adversaries. + +In their slave condition the Chinese coolies and the negroes were at +times so affected by a spirit of superstition as to cause them to +commit suicide, the latter actuated, as it seemed, by a feeling of +despair, the former through a vindictive spirit towards their masters. +Both were also moved by a superstitious conviction that their spirits +would at once be returned to their native land, to inhabit a sort of +spirit paradise or intermediate state between earth and heaven. It is +very strange that so peculiar and so similar a belief should be +indigenous in the minds of such distinctive races. At the period when +the free importation from Africa was carried on, the most difficult +thing the planters had to contend with was a proneness to suicide on +the part of those slaves who were newly imported, and who entertained +this same remarkable idea. + +Though we abhor the entire system of Cuban labor, yet it cannot be +denied that the slaves, so far as material comfort goes, are better +lodged, fed, and cared for than four fifths of the population of +Ireland and India, and, furthermore, this comparison will hold good as +regards a large portion of continental Europe. A well-fed, well-kept +negro is twice as valuable, twice as serviceable to his master as a +neglected one, and no one knows this better than the master who +governs his slaves on purely mercenary grounds, and is yet very +careful to supply liberally their physical wants. These slaves are +descended from various African tribes, whose characteristics are so +marked as to be easily discernible even by strangers. The Congoes are +small in stature, but very agile and good workers, and in past years +they have been a favorite tribe. The Fantees are a larger race of +negroes, hard to manage, and possessing a revengeful nature. Those +from the Gold Coast are still more powerful in body, but are +good-natured and well-liked by planters. The Ebros are less black than +those already named, almost mulatto in complexion, and make favorite +house servants. The Ashantees are of another prominent tribe, and are +also popular as plantation hands, but not numerous. + +The tattooed faces, bodies, and limbs of a large portion of the +slaves, especially of the hands upon the plantations, shows their +African nativity, while the smooth skin and generally greater degree +of intelligence of others show them to have been born in slavery upon +the island. These latter are mostly sought for service in the cities. +They are remarkably healthy when not overworked, and form the most +vigorous part of the population. When an epidemic breaks out among +the blacks, it seems to carry them off by wholesale, proving much more +fatal than among the whites. Cholera, small-pox, and pneumonia +sometimes sweep them off at a fearful rate. It is a curious fact that +if a negro is really ill, he requires just twice as much medicine to +affect him as a white person. + +There are said to be three hundred thousand free negroes on the +island, of whom comparatively few are found inland upon the +plantations; they are all inclined to congregate in the cities and +large towns, where, truth compels us to say, they prove to be an idle +and vicious class, and as a body useless both to themselves and to the +public. There are believed to be at present in Cuba about one hundred +and forty thousand male and about sixty thousand female slaves. To +carry on the great industry of the island as systematized by the +planters, this number of hands is entirely inadequate. It is sometimes +asked how there came to be so many free negroes in the island. It +should be clearly understood that the laws which govern Cuba are made +by the home government, not by the planters or natives of Cuba, and +that indirectly these laws have long favored emancipation of the +blacks. For many years any slave has enjoyed the right to go to a +magistrate and have himself appraised, and upon paying the price thus +set upon himself he can receive his free papers. The valuation is made +by three persons, of whom the master appoints one, and the magistrate +two. The slave may pay by installments of fifty dollars at a time, but +he owes his full service to his master until the last and entire +payment is made. If the valuation be twelve hundred dollars, after the +slave has paid one hundred he owns one twelfth of himself, and the +master eleven twelfths, and so on. Until all is paid, however, the +master's dominion over the slave is complete. There has also long been +another peculiar law in operation. A slave may on the same valuation +compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay the money +in full, and this has often been done where slave and master disagree. +This law, as will be seen, must have operated as it was designed to +do, as a check upon masters, and as an inducement for them to remove +special causes of complaint and dissatisfaction. It has also enabled +slaveholders of the better class, in the case of ill-usage of blacks, +to relieve them by paying down their appraised value and appropriating +their services to themselves. All this relates to the past rather than +the present, since, as we have explained, the relationship of slave +and master is now so nearly at an end as to render such arrangements +inoperative. + +There was a law promulgated in 1870,--the outgrowth of the revolution +of 1868, which dethroned Isabella II.,--declaring every slave in Cuba +to be free after reaching the age of sixty, and also freeing the +children of all slaves born subsequent to that year. But that law has +been ignored altogether, and was not permitted even to be announced +officially upon the island. In the first place, few hard worked slaves +survive to the age of sixty; and in the second place, the children +have no one to look after or to enforce their rights. Spain never yet +kept troth with her subjects, or with anybody else, and the passage of +the law referred to was simply a piece of political finesse, designed +for the eye of the European states, and more particularly to soothe +England, which country had lately showed considerable feeling and +restlessness touching the disregard of all treaties between herself +and Spain. + +The slaves who still remain upon the plantations appear in all outward +circumstances to be thoughtless and comparatively content; their light +and cheerful nature seems to lift them above the influence of brutal +treatment when it is encountered. That they have been called upon to +suffer much by being overtasked and cruelly punished in the past, +there is no doubt whatever, but it may be safely stated that their +condition has been greatly improved of late. The owners are obliged by +law to instruct the slaves in the Catholic faith, but this has never +been heeded to any extent by the planters, though all the children are +baptized in infancy. The law relative to the treatment of the negroes +also prescribes a certain quantity and quality of food to be regularly +furnished to them, but the masters are generally liberal in this +respect, and exceed the requirements of the law, as their mercenary +interest is obviously in that direction. The masters know by +experience that slaves will not work well unless well fed. With no +education or culture whatever, their intelligence remains at the +lowest ebb. "With plenty of food and sleep," said an owner to us, +"they are as easily managed as any other domestic animals." + +Until latterly the slaves have been carefully watched at night, but +nearly all these precautions against their escaping from servitude +seem to have been dropped. They are no longer locked up in corral, +their special night quarters. Of course they are kept within certain +bounds, but the rigorous surveillance under which they have always +lived is no longer in force. The two sexes are nominally separated, +but as there is no strict recognition of the marital relation, and +free intercommunication between them really exists, the state of +morality may be imagined. It has always been customary for mothers to +receive certain consideration and partial relief from hard labor +during a reasonable period prior to and subsequent to their +confinement, with encouraging gifts from the masters, which has caused +them generally to covet the condition of maternity. Still the +proportion of female slaves on the plantations has always been so +small, compared with that of the other sex, that not nearly so many +children are born as would be supposed. Female slaves have generally +been sent to town service, even when born on the plantations. + +It has always been clearly understood that the births on the part of +the negroes in Cuba have not nearly kept pace with the number of +deaths among them, even under apparently favorable circumstances. One +has not far to look for the reason of this. Promiscuous intercourse is +undoubtedly the predisposing cause, which is always an outgrowth of a +largely unequal division of the sexes. On the plantations the male +negroes outnumber the females ten to one. In the cities the males are +as five to one. When the slave trade was carried on between Africa and +the island, the plan was to bring over males only, but it was hardly +practicable to adhere strictly to the rule, so women were not declined +when a cargo was being made up and nearly completed. Thus a disparity +was inaugurated which has continued to the present day, with only a +slight equalizing tendency. + +The present plan of freeing the slaves recommends itself to all +persons who fully understand the position, and if it be honestly +carried out will soon obliterate the crime of enforced labor upon the +island. A sudden freeing of the blacks, that is, all at once, would +have been attended with much risk to all parties, although justice and +humanity demand their liberation. France tried the experiment in St. +Domingo, and the result was a terrible state of anarchy. Not only did +she lose possession of the island, but the people settled down by +degrees into all the horrors of African savagery, even to cannibalism. +England followed, and generously paid the British planters of Jamaica +for all their slaves, giving the latter unconditional freedom. Of +course this ruined the island commercially, but it was strict justice, +nevertheless. Extreme measures are open to objection even in behalf of +justice. It was hoped that the freed negroes of Jamaica would become +thrifty and industrious, earning fair wages, and that crops would +still be remunerative, but it was not so. The negro of the tropics +will only work when he is compelled, and in the West Indies he has +scarcely more to do, as it regards sustaining life, than to pluck of +the wild fruits and to eat. The sugar plantations of Jamaica have +simply ceased to exist. + +Every reasonable Cuban has long realized that the freedom of the +blacks was but a question of time, and that it must soon be brought +about, but how this could be accomplished without rendering them +liable to the terrible consequences which befell St. Domingo was a +serious problem. The commercial wreck of Jamaica had less terror for +them as an example, since of late their own condition could in that +respect hardly be worse. Therefore, the manumitting of one slave in +every four annually, so organized that all shall be free on January 1, +1888, is considered with great favor by the people generally, except +the most radical of old Spaniards. All are thus prepared for the +change, which is so gradually brought about as to cause no great +shock. It is not unreasonable to believe that the instantaneous +freeing of all the slaves would have led to mutual destruction of +whites and blacks all over the island. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Slave Trade with Africa. -- Where the Slavers made their + Landing. -- An Early Morning Ride. -- Slaves marching to + Daily Labor. -- Fragrance of the Early Day. -- Mist upon the + Waters. -- A Slave Ship. -- A Beautiful but Guilty + Brigantine. -- A French Cruiser. -- Cunning Seamanship. -- A + Wild Goose Chase. -- A Cuban Posada. -- Visit to a Coffee + Estate. -- Landing a Slave Cargo. -- A Sight to challenge + Sympathy and Indignation. -- Half-Starved Victims. -- + Destruction of the Slave Ship. + + +The author's first visit to the island of Cuba was during the year +1845, at a period when the slave traffic was vigorously, though +surreptitiously carried on between Africa and the island. The trade +was continued so late as 1853, and occasional cargoes were brought +over even later, slavers having been captured on the south coast two +years subsequent to the last named date. The slave vessels generally +sought a landing on the south side, both as being nearest and safest +for them, but when they were hard pressed they made a port wherever it +could be most easily reached. A favorite point at the time of which we +speak, was in the Bay of Broa, on the south coast, nearly opposite to +the Isle of Pines. It was here in 1845 that the author witnessed a +scene which forms the theme of the following chapter. A superior +knowledge of all the hidden bays and inlets of the south side gave the +contrabandists great advantages over any pursuing vessel, and their +lighter draught of water enabled them to navigate their small crafts +where it was impossible for a heavy ship to follow. + +We were on a brief visit to the coffee estate of Don Herero, near +Guines, and having expressed a desire to visit the southern coast, our +host proposed that we should do so together on the following day. We +were to start on horseback quite early in the morning, so as to +accomplish the distance before the heat of the sun should become +oppressive. + +The early day is almost as beautiful as the evenings of this region, a +fact to which we were fully awakened at an early hour, after a +refreshing night's sleep. Don Herero was already awaiting us on the +broad piazza, which we reached in time to see the slaves, directed by +an overseer, file past the house towards the field. "A couple of hours +before sunrise," said our host, "is the best time for them to work, +and we add these two hours to their noon rest, so that it divides the +labor to better advantage and avoids the midday heat." There were +perhaps seventy or eighty of this gang of slaves, one fifth only being +women. Don Herero went among them and exchanged some pleasant words, +mostly with the women, one of whom, evidently in a delicate situation, +he singled out and led aside, directing her to return to the huts. It +seemed that she had prepared to go to the field, but he did not +approve of it, and she acquiesced good naturedly. It was observed also +that he gave her a piece of money with a pleasant word, bidding her to +purchase some coveted piece of finery,--probably a gaudy "bandana," of +whose bright colors the negro women are very fond, binding them +turban-fashion about their curly heads. Another passion among the +Cuban negresses is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even +brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained. + +As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted +upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their +manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South +American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At +first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the +entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road, +like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural +English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere, +still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance +of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along +at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated +district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by +hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented +shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and +prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with +small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and +abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of +wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their +surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs +of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of +whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which +he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette +sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and +whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline. + +A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle +rise of ground, which opened to our view the ocean, and a line of +coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite +early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which +stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more +distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to +disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift +the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time, +however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero +observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen +such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured +us that with the exercise of a little patience we should soon be +rewarded by a clear and extensive view. So dismounting and lighting +our cigars we leaned upon the saddles of the horses and watched the +wreaths of the mist bank gradually dissolving. To the eastward there +jutted out a promontory with a considerable elevation, behind which +the sun began to show his florid countenance. Presently the indistinct +outline of a graceful tracery of spars and cordage greeted the eye +through the misty gauze, growing steadily more and more distinct and +gradually descending towards the sea level, until at last there lay +before us in full view, with a look of treacherous tranquillity, the +dark, low hull of a brigantine. + +"A slaver!" was the mutual and simultaneous exclamation which burst +from our lips as we gazed intently on the small but symmetrical +vessel. + +Don Herero looked particularly intelligent, but said nothing. There +could be no doubt as to the trade which engaged such a clipper craft. +No legitimate commerce was suggested by her appearance, no honest +trade demanded such manifest sacrifice of carrying capacity. It was +very natural that her guilty character should add interest to her +appearance and cause us to examine her very minutely. A short distance +from where we stood there was gathered a group of a dozen or more +persons, who silently regarded the brigantine, but they evinced no +surprise at her appearance there so close to the shore. She was of a +most graceful model, perfect in every line, with bows almost as sharp +as a knife. The rig was also quite unusual and entirely new to us. Her +deck was flush fore and aft. Not so much as an inch of rise was +allowed for a quarter-deck, a style which gave large stowage capacity +below deck, the level of which came up to within a couple of feet of +the cappings of the bulwarks. As we have before intimated, it required +no interpreter to indicate what business the brigantine was engaged +in. A single glance at her, lying in so unfrequented a place, was +enough. The rakish craft was of Baltimore build, of about two hundred +tons measurement, and, like many another vessel turned out by the +Maryland builders, was designed to make successfully the famous middle +passage to or from the coast of Cuba, loaded with kidnapped negroes +from the shores of Africa. The two requisites of these clippers were +great speed and large stowage capacity for a human freight. + +At first it appeared as though Don Herero had purposely brought us +here to witness the scene, but this he insisted was not the case, +declaring that the presence of the slaver was a surprise to him. Be +that as it may, it was clear that a cargo of negroes was about to be +landed, and certain rapid signals had been exchanged by flags from a +neighboring hut ever since the mist lifted. Repulsive as the idea was +to a Northerner, still it would do no good to avoid the sight, and so +we resolved to witness the disembarkation. Our friend, though a +slaveholder, was so more by force of circumstances than through his +own choice; he did not defend the institution at all. His solemn +convictions were entirely against slavery, and he more than once said +he heartily wished that some means might be devised which should +gradually and effectually relieve the planters from the entire system +and its many troubles. Don Herero now lies in one of the tombs in the +Campo Santo, near Havana, but were he living he would doubtless +rejoice at the present manner of solving a question which was so +involved in perplexity during the last of his days. + +While we were exchanging some remarks upon the subject, our attention +was suddenly drawn towards another striking object upon the waters of +the bay. + +Nearly a league beyond the slaver, looming up above the mist, we could +now make out three topmasts, clearly defined, the stately set of +which, with their firm and substantial rig, betrayed the fact that +there floated beneath them the hull of a French or an English +man-of-war, such as was commissioned at that time to cruise in these +waters for the purpose of intercepting and capturing the vessels +engaged in the African slave trade. + +"A cruiser has scented the brigantine," said Don Herero. + +"It certainly appears so," we affirmed. + +"Unless there be sharp eyes on board the little craft, the cruiser +will be down upon her before her people even suspect their danger." + +"The brigantine can hardly escape, at any rate," we suggested. + +"Don't be too sure," said Don Herero. + +It was impossible for our friend to suppress the nervous anxiety which +so manifestly actuated him as he viewed the new phase of affairs. + +"Look! Look!" he exclaimed. + +While he spoke, a drapery of snow-white canvas fell like magic from +the spars of the slaver, ready to catch the first breath of the breeze +which the stranger was bringing down with him, though the larger +vessel was still partially wrapped in a thin bank or cloud of fog. A +couple of long sweeps were rigged out of either bow of the brigantine, +and her prow, which just before was heading shoreward, was swung to +seaward, while her canvas was trimmed to catch the first breath of the +on-coming breeze. + +"This looks like business," said Don Herero with emphasis, at the same +time shading his eyes with both hands to get a better view of the +situation. + +"Can you define the new-comer's nationality?" we asked. + +"Not yet." + +"See! she is now in full sight." + +"French!" exclaimed Don Herero, as the tri-colors were clearly visible +hanging from her peak. + +"What will the cruiser do with the brigantine?" we asked. + +"First catch your hare," said our friend. + +Our host then explained that the slaver had evidently intended to land +her cargo under cover of the night, but had been prevented by the mist +from coming to anchor in time. Fog, being so seldom known on this +coast, had not entered into their calculations. She had most likely +felt her way towards the shore by soundings, and was waiting for full +daylight when we discovered her. + +While this explanation was being made, the brigantine had already got +steerage way upon her, aided by the steady application of the sweeps, +and her sharp bow was headed off shore. Nothing on the sea, unless it +were a steamer, could hold speed with these fly-aways, which were +built for just such emergencies as the present. The gradually +freshening breeze had now dispersed the mist, and the two vessels were +clearly in view from the shore and to each other. The remarkable +interest of the scene increased with each moment. Don Herero, with all +the excitability of his nationality, could hardly contain himself as +he walked rapidly back and forth, always keeping his eyes towards the +sea. + +The cruiser had come down under an easy spread of canvas, wearing a +jib, three topsails, fore, main, and mizzen, and her spanker. It did +not appear as if she had any previous intimation of the presence of +the slaver, but rather that she was on the watch for just such a +quarry as chance had placed within reach of her guns. The moment she +discovered the brigantine, and at a signal which we could not hear +upon the land, a hundred dark objects peopled her shrouds and spars, +and sail after sail of heavy duck was rapidly dropped and sheeted +home, until the mountain of canvas began to force the large hull +through the water with increasing speed. + +In the mean time the lesser craft had been by no means idle. In +addition to the regular square and fore and aft sails of a brigantine, +she had a mizzen-mast stepped well aft not more than four feet from +her taffrail, upon which she had hoisted a spanker and gaff-topsail, +thus completing a most graceful and effective rig, and spreading a +vast amount of canvas for a vessel of her moderate tonnage. It was +quite impossible to take one's eyes off the two vessels. It was a race +for life with the slaver, whose people worked with good effect at the +sweeps and in trimming their sails to make the most out of the light +but favorable wind that was filling them. The larger vessel would have +made better headway in a stiff breeze or half a gale of wind, but the +present moderate breeze favored the guilty little brigantine, which +was every moment forging ahead and increasing the distance between +herself and her enemy. + +"Do you see that commotion on the cruiser's bow?" asked our friend +eagerly. + +"Some men are gathered on the starboard bow," was our answer. + +"Ay, and now she runs out a gun!" + +That was plain enough to see. The cruiser trained a bow-chaser to bear +on the slaver, and the boom of the gun came sluggishly over the sea a +few seconds after the puff of smoke was seen. A quick eye could see +the dash of the shot just astern of the brigantine, where it must have +cast the spray over her quarter-deck. After a moment's delay, as if to +get the true range, a second, third, and fourth shot followed, each +ricochetting through and over the slight waves either to starboard or +port of the slaver, without any apparent effect. The brigantine, still +employing her sweeps, and with canvas well trimmed, took no notice of +the shots. + +Every time the gun was discharged on board the cruiser, it became +necessary to fall off her course just a point or two in order to get a +proper aim, and her captain was quick to see the disadvantage of this, +as he was only assisting the slaver to widen the distance between +them. It would seem to the uninitiated to be the easiest thing +possible to cripple the brigantine by a few well directed shots, but +when sailing in the wake of an enemy this is by no means so easily +done. Besides, the distance between the two vessels, which was +considerable, was momentarily increasing. Notwithstanding that the +broad spread of canvas on board the slaver made her a conspicuous +mark, still, so far as could be seen or judged of by her movements, +she remained untouched by half a dozen shots, more or less, which the +cruiser sent after her as she slipped away from her big adversary. We +could even see that the sweeps were now taken in, showing that the +master of the slaver considered the game to be in his own hands. + +"The brigantine steers due south," said our friend, rubbing his hands +together eagerly. "She will lead the Frenchman a wild goose chase +among the Cayman Isles, where he will be most likely to run aground +with his heavy draught of water. The sea round about for leagues is +underlaid by treacherous coral reefs. We shall see, we shall see," he +reiterated. + +"But they must certainly have a good pilot on board the cruiser," we +ventured to say. + +"Undoubtedly," replied Don Herero, "but the brigantine is built with a +centre-board, thus having, as it were, a portable keel, and can sail +anywhere that a man could swim, while the cruiser, with all her +armament, must draw nearly three fathoms. A ship will sometimes follow +a chase into dangerous water." + +"True," we responded, "the brigantine's safety lies in seeking shoal +water." + +"You are right, and that will be her game." + +In half an hour both vessels were hull down in the offing, and were +soon invisible from our point of view. The early ride and subsequent +excitement had developed in us a healthy appetite, and we were +strongly reminded of the fact that we had not breakfasted. We were +near the little hamlet of Lenore, where there was a small inn, which +we had passed on the way, and towards which we now turned our horses' +heads. A breakfast of boiled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee was +prepared for us and well served, much to our surprise, supplemented by +a large dish of various fruits, ripe and delicious. Don Herero had +left us for a few moments while the breakfast was preparing, and it +must have been owing to his intelligent instructions that we were so +nicely served, for, as a rule, country posadas in Cuba are places to +be avoided, being neither cleanly nor comfortable. For strangers they +are not entirely safe, as they are frequented by a very rough class of +people. These idlers do not indulge in spirituous liquors to excess, +partaking only of the light Cataline wine in universal use both in +Spain and her colonies. Intemperance is little seen outside the large +cities, but gambling and quarreling are ever rampant among the class +who frequent these posadas. In the present instance there were a dozen +and more individuals in the Lenore inn who were more or less connected +with the expected arrival of the slave brigantine, and the +disappointment caused by the arrival upon the scene of the French +cruiser had put them all in a very bad humor. Angry words were being +exchanged among them in the large reception apartment, and Don Herero +suggested that we should finish our cigars under an inviting shade in +the rear of the posada. + +At our host's suggestion a neighboring coffee plantation was visited, +and its floral and vegetable beauties thoroughly enjoyed. It was in +the very height of fragrance and promise, the broad expanse of the +plantation, as far as the eye could extend, being in full bloom. Some +hours were agreeably passed in examining the estate, the slaves' +quarters, and the domestic arrangements, and also in partaking of the +hospitalities of the generous owner, after which we rode back to +Lenore. + +"We must not miss the closing act of our little drama," said Don +Herero, significantly. + +"The closing act?" we inquired. + +"Certainly. You do not suppose we have yet done with the brigantine?" + +"Oh, the brigantine. Will she dare to return, now the cruiser has +discovered her?" + +"Of course she will, after dropping her pursuer. Strange that these +French cruisers do not understand these things better; but so it is." + +And Don Herero explained that the French cruisers watched the southern +coasts of the island, while the English cruised on the northern shore, +attempted to blockade it, and also cruised farther seaward, on the +line between Africa and Cuba. A couple of American men-of-war, engaged +in the same purpose of suppressing the slave trade, patrolled the +African coast. It was nearly night before we got through our dinner at +the posada. Just as we were preparing to leave the table, the landlord +came in and announced to Don Herero that if we desired to witness the +close of the morning's business in the bay, we must hurry up to the +plateau. + +We hastened to our former position, reaching it just in time to see +the brigantine again rounding the headland. She now ran in close to +the shore, where there seemed to be hardly water sufficient to float +her, but the exactness and system which characterized her movements +showed that her commander was not a stranger to the little bay in +which he had brought his vessel. All was instantly bustle and +activity, both on board and on shore. There were not more than twenty +people to be seen at the shore, but each one knew his business, and +went about it intelligently. There was no more loud talking or +disputation. These men, all armed, were accustomed to this sort of +thing, and had evidently been awaiting the slaver's arrival for some +days. They were a rough-looking set of desperadoes, among whom we +recognized several who had been at the posada. + +The brigantine was quickly moored as near to the shore as possible, +and a broad gangway of wood was laid from her deck to a projecting +rock, over which a long line of dark objects was hurried, like a flock +of sheep, and nearly as naked as when born into the world. We walked +down to the landing-place, in order to get a closer view. The line of +human beings who came out from below the deck of the slaver were +mostly full-grown men, but occasionally a woman or a boy came out and +hastened forward with the rest. As we drew nearer, one or two of the +women, it was observed, had infants in their arms, little unconscious +creatures, sound asleep, and so very young that they must have been +born on the voyage. How the entire scene appealed to our indignation +and sympathy! What misery these poor creatures must have endured, +cooped up for twenty-one days in that circumscribed space! They were +all shockingly emaciated, having sustained life on a few ounces of +rice and a few gills of water daily distributed to them. The +atmosphere, thoroughly poisoned when so confined, had proved fatal to +a large number. As we stood there, one dark body was passed up from +below the deck and quietly dropped into the bay. Life was extinct. It +was quite impossible to suppress a shudder as we looked upon the +disgraceful scene, which being observed Don Herero said,-- + +"They look bad enough now, but a few days in the open air, with a +plenty of fresh vegetables, fruits, and sweet water to drink, will +bring them round. They will get a good bath directly at the first +river they cross, which is the thing they most require." + +While our friend was speaking, four tall, gaunt, fierce-looking +negroes passed us, shackled two by two at the wrists. Their eyes +rolled curiously about, full of wonder at all they saw, everything was +to them so strange. They knew no more than children just born what was +in store for them. + +"Poor fellows!" we ejaculated. Perhaps they detected sympathy in the +tone of voice in which the words were uttered. They could not +understand their purport, but all four were observed to turn their +eyes quickly towards us, with an intelligent expression. + +"These are Ashantees," said Don Herero. "They have thriven but poorly +on their small allowance of nourishment, but they will improve rapidly +like the rest, now they have landed. They belong to a powerful tribe +in Africa, and are rarely captured and sold to the factories on the +coast. They are sturdy and serviceable fellows, but they must be +humored. The lash will not subdue them. They bring a high price in +Havana for harbor workers." + +Hastening back to the posada, a large basket of cassava bread and an +abundance of ripe bananas and oranges, with half a dozen bottles of +wine, were procured. With these, carried by a couple of colored boys, +we hastened back to the landing-place in time to distribute the +refreshments to all the women and boys. The balance of the provisions +were dealt out to the few men who had not already been hurried away +from the spot. It is impossible to describe the surprise and grateful +expression upon those dusky faces among the half-famished creatures, +as they eagerly swallowed a portion of the wine, and ate freely of the +delicious fruit and nourishing bread. + +We were told afterwards that there were about three hundred and fifty +of these poor creatures originally embarked, and over three hundred +were landed. Perhaps between thirty and forty had died on the passage, +unable to sustain life under such awful circumstances, packed, as they +necessarily were, almost like herring in a box. Once a day, in fair +weather, thirty or forty at a time were permitted to pass a half hour +on deck. That was all the respite from their confinement which they +enjoyed during the three weeks' voyage. The horrors of the "middle +passage" have not been exaggerated. + +"They must have lost many of their number by death, on the voyage," we +suggested to Don Herero, as we observed their weak and tremulous +condition. + +"Doubtless," was the response. + +"And what do they do in that case?" + +"They have the ocean always alongside," was his significant reply. + +"They throw them over as they did that body just now?" we asked. + +"Exactly. And many a poor sick creature is cast into the sea before +life is extinct," he continued. + +"That is adding murder to piracy," was our natural and indignant +rejoinder. + +"Hush!" said Don Herero, "these are sensitive people, and desperate +ones, as well. I should find it difficult to protect you if they were +to overhear and understand such words." + +We realized that his remarks were true enough. We were in a land of +slavery, and that meant that everything evil was possible. + +The last of the living freight had been landed, and arranged in +marching trim they were turned with their faces inland, staggering as +they went, their swollen and cramped limbs hardly able to sustain the +weight of their bodies. They were all secured with handcuffs, twenty +in a lot, between whom,--there being ten on a side,--a pole was +placed, and each was fastened by a chain running through the steel +handcuffs to the pole. An armed Spaniard directed each lot. The faces +of all were quite expressionless. They had just endured such horrors +packed beneath the deck of the brigantine that the present change must +have been welcome to them, lame as they were. + +We had been so completely engaged in watching the colored gangs and in +moving up to our lookout station of the early morning that our +thoughts had not reverted to anything else, but as the last lot filed +by there boomed over the waters of the bay the heavy report of a gun, +at once calling our attention seaward. A change had come over the +scene. That which has taken some space to relate had transpired with +great rapidity. Night had settled over the scene, but the moon and +stars were so marvelously bright as to render objects almost as plain +as by day. The ocean lay like a sheet of silver, luminous with the +reflected light poured upon it by the sparkling skies. Looking towards +the southeast, we saw the French cruiser rounding the headland which +formed the eastern arm of the little bay, and she had already sent a +shot across the water aimed at the brigantine. Don Herero had +prognosticated correctly. The slaver had led the cruiser a fruitless +chase and lost her among the islands, and then returning to her former +anchorage had successfully discharged her cargo. Her tactics could not +have been anticipated by the cruiser, yet had an armed party been left +behind in boats, the brigantine might have been captured on her +return. But then again, if the cruiser had left a portion of her crew +at this point, the slaver would have been notified by the friends on +shore, and would have sought a landing elsewhere. + +The brigantine had cast off her moorings and was now standing seaward, +with her sails filled. We could distinctly see a quarter boat leave +her side manned by some of her crew, who at once pulled towards the +nearest landing. At the same time a bright blaze sprang up on board +the slaver just amidships, and in a moment more it crept, like a +living serpent, from shroud to shroud and from spar to spar, until the +graceful brigantine was one sheet of flame! It was dazzling to look +upon, even at the distance where we stood, the body of high-reaching +flame being sharply defined against the background of sky and blue +water. + +While we watched the glowing view the cruiser cautiously changed her +course and bore away, for fire was an enemy with which she could not +contend. Presently there arose a shower of blazing matter heavenward, +while a confused shock and a dull rumbling report filled the +atmosphere, as the guilty brigantine was blown to atoms! Hemmed in as +she was there could be no hope of escape. Her mission was ended, and +her crew followed their usual orders, to destroy the ship rather than +permit her to fall a prize to any government cruisers. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + Antique Appearance of Everything. -- The Yeomen of Cuba. -- A + Montero's Home. -- Personal Experience. -- The Soil of the + Island. -- Oppression by the Government. -- Spanish Justice + in Havana. -- Tax upon the Necessities of Life. -- The + Proposed Treaty with Spain. -- A One-Sided Proposition. -- A + Much Taxed People. -- Some of the Items of Taxation. -- Fraud + and Bankruptcy. -- The Boasted Strength of Moro Castle. -- + Destiny of Cuba. -- A Heavy Annual Cost to Spain. -- + Political Condition. -- Pictures of Memory. + + +Everything in Cuba has an aspect of antiquity quite Egyptian. The +style of the buildings is not unlike that of the Orient, while the +trees and vegetable products increase the resemblance. The tall, +majestic palms, the graceful cocoanut trees, the dwellings of the +lower classes and many other peculiarities give to the scenery an +Eastern aspect quite impressive. It is impossible to describe the +vividness with which each object, artificial or natural, house or +tree, stands out in the clear liquid light where there is no haze to +interrupt the view. Indeed, it is impossible to express how +essentially everything differs in this sunny island from our own +country. The language, the people, the climate, the manners and +customs, the architecture, the foliage, the flowers, all offer broad +contrasts to what the American has so lately left behind him. It is +but a long cannon shot, as it were, off our southern coast, yet once +upon its soil the stranger seems to have been transported to another +quarter of the globe. It would require but little effort of the +imagination to believe one's self in distant Syria, or some remoter +part of Asia. + +One never tires of watching the African population, either in town or +country. During the hours which the slaves are allowed to themselves, +they are oftenest seen working on their own allotted piece of ground, +where they raise favorite fruits and vegetables, besides corn for +fattening the pig penned up near by, and for which the drover who +regularly visits the plantations will pay them in good hard money. +Thus it has been the case, in years past, that thrifty slaves have +earned the means of purchasing their freedom, after which they have +sought the cities, and have swelled the large numbers of free negroes +who naturally tend towards these populous centres. Some become +caleseros, some labor upon the water-front of the town as stevedores, +porters, and the like, but the majority are confirmed idlers. In the +cities even the slaves have always had a less arduous task to perform +than those on the plantations. They are less exposed to the sun, and +are as a rule allowed more freedom and privileges. The women never +fail to exhibit the true negro taste for cheap jewelry. A few gaudy +ribbons and a string of high-colored glass beads about the neck are +greatly prized by them. Sometimes the mistress of a good looking +negress takes great pleasure in decking her immediate attendant in +grand style, with big gold finger rings, large hoop earrings, wide +gold necklace, and the like. A bright calico gown and a flaring +bandana kerchief bound about the head generally complete the costume +of these petted slaves. There was one sight observed in the church of +Santa Clara of significance in this connection. Before the altar all +distinction ceased, and the negress knelt on the same bit of carpet +beside the mistress. + +The native soil of Cuba is so rich that a touch of the hoe prepares it +for the plant. It is said to be unsurpassed in the world in this +respect, and only equaled by Australia. The Monteros have little more +to do than to gather produce, which they carry daily to the nearest +market, and which also forms their own healthful and palatable food. +Nowhere are the necessities of life so easily supplied, or are men so +delicately nurtured. And yet to our Northern eye these Monteros seemed +rather a forlorn sort of people, forming a class by themselves, and +regarded with disdain by the Spaniards and most Creoles, as our +Southern slaveholders used to regard the poor whites of the South. If +one may judge by appearances they are nearly as poor in purse as they +can be. Their home, rude and lowly, consists generally of a cabin with +a bamboo frame, covered by a palm-leaf roof, and with an earthen +floor. There are a few broken hedges, and numbers of ragged or naked +children. Pigs, hens, goats, all stroll ad libitum in and out of the +cabin. The Montero's tools--few and poorly adapted--are Egyptian-like +in primitiveness, while the few vegetables are scarcely cultivated at +all. The chaparral about his cabin is low, tangled, and thorny, but it +is remarkable what a redeeming effect a few graceful palms impart to +the crudeness of the picture. + +The Montero raises, perhaps, some sweet potatoes, which, by the bye, +reach a very large size in Cuban soil. He has also a little patch of +corn, but _such_ corn. When ripe it is only three or four feet in +height, or less than half the average of our New England growth, the +ears mere nubbins. This corn grows, however, all the year round, and +is fed green to horses and cattle. All this is done upon a very small +scale. No one lays in a stock of anything perishable. The farmer's or +the citizen's present daily necessities alone are provided for. +Idleness and tobacco occupy most of the Montero's time, varied by the +semi-weekly attractions of the cock-pit. The amount of sustaining food +which can be realized from one of these little patches of ground, so +utterly neglected, is something beyond credence to those who have not +looked bountiful nature in the face in Cuba. + +While traveling in the vicinity of Guines, the author stopped at one +of these lonely Montero homes to obtain water and refreshment for his +horse. These were promptly furnished in the form of a pail of water +and a bundle of green cornstalks. In the mean time the rude +hospitality of the cabin was proffered to us, and we gladly sat down +to partake of cocoanut milk and bananas. One of the family pets of the +cabin consisted of a tall white bird of the crane species, which, +regardless of goat, kid, hens, chickens, and children, came boldly to +our side as though accustomed to be petted, and greedily devoured the +banana which was peeled for him and cut into tempting bits. One wing +had evidently been cut so that the bird could not fly away, but his +long, vigorous legs would have defied pursuit, had he desired to +escape. Four children, two of each sex, two of whom were white and two +mulatto, quite naked, and less than ten years of age, kept close to +the Montero's Creole wife, watching us with big, wondering eyes, and +fingers thrust into their mouths. What relationship they bore to the +household was not clearly apparent. On rising to depart and attempting +to pay for the entertainment, the master of the cabin, with true Cuban +hospitality, declined all remuneration; but a handful of small silver +divided among the children satisfied all, and we parted with a hearty +pressure of the hand. + +The richest soil of the island is black, which is best adapted to +produce the sugar-cane, and is mostly devoted, if eligibly located, to +that purpose. To a Northerner, accustomed to see so much enrichment +expended upon the soil to force from it an annual return, this +profuseness of unstimulated yield is a surprise. The red soil of Cuba, +which is impregnated with the oxide of iron, is less rich, and is +better adapted to the coffee plantation. The mulatto-colored earth is +considered to be inferior to either of the others named, but is by no +means unproductive, being preferred by the tobacco growers, who, +however, often mingle a percentage of other soils with it, as we +mingle barnyard refuse with our natural soil. Some tobacco planters +have resorted by way of experiment to the use of guano, hoping to +stimulate the native properties of the soil, but its effect was found +to be not only exhausting to the land, but also bad for the leaf, +rendering it rank and unfit for delicate use. + +Coal is found near Havana, though it is of rather an inferior quality, +and, so far as we could learn, is but little used, the planters +depending mostly upon the refuse of the cane with which to run their +boilers and engines. Trees have been only too freely used for fuel +while accessible, but great care is now taken to utilize the cane +after the juice is expressed. Trees, which are so much needed in this +climate for shade purposes, have mostly disappeared near Havana. When +Columbus first landed here he wrote home to Spain that the island was +so thickly wooded as to be impassable. + +The lovely climate and beautiful land are rendered gloomy by the state +of oppression under which they suffer. The exuberant soil groans with +the burdens which are heaped upon it. The people are not safe from +prying inquiry at bed or board. Their every action is watched, their +slightest words noted and perhaps distorted. They can sing no song of +liberty, and even to hum an air wedded to republican verse is to +provoke suspicion. The press is muzzled by the iron hand of power. Two +hours before a daily paper is distributed on the streets of Havana, a +copy must be sent to the government censor. When it is returned with +his indorsement it may be issued to the public. The censorship of the +telegraph is also as rigorously enforced. Nor do private letters +through the mails escape espionage. No passenger agent in Havana dares +to sell a ticket for the departure of a stranger or citizen without +first seeing that the individual's passport is indorsed by the police. +Foreign soldiers fatten upon the people, or at least they eat out +their substance, and every town near the coast is a garrison, every +interior village a military depot. + +Upon landing, if well advised, one is liberal to the petty officials. +Chalk is cheap. A five-dollar gold-piece smooths the way wonderfully, +and causes the inspector to cross one's baggage with his chalk and no +questions asked. No gold, no chalk! Every article must be scrupulously +examined. It is cheapest to pay, humiliating as it is, and thus +purchase immunity. + +As a specimen of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Havana +to-day, a case is presented which occurred during our stay at the +Telegrafo Hotel. A native citizen was waylaid by three men and robbed +of his pocket-book and watch, about fifty rods from the hotel, at +eight o'clock in the evening. The rascal who secured the booty, +threatening his victim all the while with a knife at his throat, +instantly ran away, but the citizen succeeded in holding on to the +other two men until his outcries brought the police to the spot. The +two accomplices were at once imprisoned. Three days later they were +brought before an authorized court, and tried for the robbery. Being +taken red-handed, as it were, one would suppose their case was clear +enough, and that they would be held until they gave up their +accomplice. Not so, however. The victim of the robbery, who had lost a +hundred and sixty dollars in money and a valuable gold watch, was +coolly rebuked for carrying so much property about his person, and the +case was dismissed! Had the sufferer been a home Spaniard possibly the +result would have been different. The inference is plain and doubtless +correct, that the official received half the stolen property, provided +he would liberate the culprits. Sometimes, as we were assured, the +victim outbids the rogues, and exemplary punishment follows! + +Flour of a good commercial quality sells at present in Boston for six +dollars per barrel. Why should it cost fourteen dollars in Havana and +other ports of Cuba? Because Spain demands a tax of one hundred per +cent. to be paid into the royal treasury upon this prime necessity of +life. This one example is sufficient to illustrate her policy, which +is to extort from the Cubans every possible cent that can be obtained. +The extraordinary taxation imposed upon their subjects by the German +and Austrian governments is carried to the very limit, it would seem, +of endurance, but taxation in Cuba goes far beyond anything of the +sort in Europe. Spain now asks us to execute with her a "favorable" +reciprocity treaty. Such a treaty as she proposes would be of very +great benefit to Spain, no doubt, but of none, or comparatively none, +to us. Whatever we seemingly do for Cuba in the matter of such a +treaty we should do indirectly for Spain. She it is who will reap all +the benefit. She has still upon her hands some fifty to sixty thousand +civil and military individuals, who are supported by a miserable +system of exaction as high and petty officials in this misgoverned +island. + +It is for the interest of this army of locusts in possession to keep +up the present state of affairs,--it is bread and butter to them, +though it be death to the Cubans. Relieved of the enormous taxation +and oppression generally which her people labor under in every +department of life, Cuba would gradually assume a condition of thrift +and plenty. But while she is so trodden upon, so robbed in order to +support in luxury a host of rapacious Spaniards, and forbidden any +voice in the control of her own affairs, all the treaty concessions +which we could make to Spain would only serve to keep up and +perpetuate the great farce. Such a treaty as is proposed would be in +reality granting to Spain a subsidy of about thirty million dollars +per annum! This conclusion was arrived at after consultation with +three of the principal United States consuls on the island. Cuba +purchases very little from us; she has not a consuming population of +over three hundred thousand. The common people, negroes, and Chinese +do not each expend five dollars a year for clothing. Rice, codfish, +and dried beef, with the abundant fruits, form their support. Little +or none of these come from the United States. The few consumers wear +goods which we cannot, or at least do not produce. A reciprocity +treaty with such a people means, therefore, giving them a splendid +annual subsidy. + +Taxed by the government to the very last extreme, the landlords, +shopkeepers, and all others who work for hire have also learned the +trick of it, and practice a similar game on every possible victim. +Seeing a small desirable text book in a shop on the Calle de Obrapia, +we asked the price. + +"Two dollars, gold, senor," was the answer. + +"Why do you charge just double the price one would pay for it in +Madrid, Paris, or New York?" we asked. + +"Because we are so heavily taxed," was the reply, and the shopman went +on to illustrate. + +Each small retail store is taxed three hundred dollars for the right +to do business. As the store increases in size and importance the tax +is increased. A new tax of six per cent. on the amount of all other +taxation has just been added, to cover the cost of collecting the +whole! A war tax of twenty-five per cent. upon incomes was laid in +1868, and though the war has been ended ten years it is still +collected. Every citizen or resident in Havana is obliged to supply +himself with a document which is called a cedula, or paper of +identification, at an annual cost of five dollars in gold. Every +merchant who places a sign outside of his door is taxed so much per +letter annually. Clerks in private establishments have to pay two and +one half per cent. of their quarterly salaries to government. +Railroads pay a tax of ten per cent. upon all passage money received, +and the same on all freight money. Petty officials invent and impose +fines upon the citizens for the most trifling things, and strangers +are mulcted in various sums of money whenever a chance occurs, +generally liquidating the demand rather than to be at the cost of time +and money to contest their rights. The very beggars in the streets, +blind, lame, or diseased, if found in possession of money, are forced +to share it with officials on some outrageous pretext. All these +things taken into consideration show us why the shopkeeper of Havana +must charge double price for his merchandise. We have only named a few +items of taxation which happen to occur to us, and which only form a +commencement of the long list. + +It is nearly impossible at present to collect a note or an account on +the island. Several of the guests at the Telegrafo had come from the +United States solely upon these fruitless errands, each having the +same experience to relate. Dishonest debtors take advantage of the +general state of bankruptcy which exists, and plead utter inability to +meet their obligations, while others, who would gladly pay their +honest debts if it were possible, have not the means to do so. + +There is considerable counterfeit paper money in circulation, and we +were told that the banks of the city of Havana actually paid it out +knowingly over their own counters, mixed in with genuine bills,--a +presumed perquisite of the bank officers! This unprecedented fraud +was not put a stop to until the merchants and private bankers +threatened to have the doors of the banks closed by popular force if +the outrage was longer continued. Could such a public fraud be carried +on under any other than a Spanish government? It is not pleasant to +record the fact, but it is nevertheless true that the Spaniards in +Cuba are artful, untruthful, unreliable even in small things, with no +apparent sense of honor, and seeking just now mainly how they can best +avoid their honest obligations. As evil communications are contagious, +the Cubans have become more or less impregnated with this spirit of +commercial dishonesty. It must be admitted that of true, conscientious +principles neither party has any to spare. + +The writer has often been asked about Moro Castle. Much has been said +about its "impregnable" character, but modern military science will +not recognize any such theory. A thousand chances are liable to +happen, any one of which might give the place into the hands of an +invading force. Has it not already been twice taken? Though it may be +said that auxiliary forts have been added since those experiences, +nevertheless modern artillery would make but short work of the boasted +defenses of Havana, and would knock the metropolis itself all to +pieces in a few hours, while lying out of range from Moro Castle. No +invading force need attack from the seaward side, unless it should be +found particularly desirable to do so. The place could be easily +taken, as the French took Algiers, by landing a sufficient force in +the rear. With the exception of the fortresses in and about Havana, +the island, with its two thousand miles of coast line and nearly one +hundred accessible harbors, is certainly very poorly prepared to +resist an invading enemy. Cuba's boasted military or defensive +strength is chimerical. + +That the island naturally belongs to this country is a fact so plain +as to have been conceded by all authorities. In this connection one is +forcibly reminded of the words of Jefferson in a letter to President +Monroe, so long ago as 1823, wherein he says: "I candidly confess that +I have ever looked on Cuba as the most interesting addition which +could be made to our system of States. The control which, with Florida +Point, this island would give us over the Gulf of Mexico and the +countries and the isthmus bordering it, would fill up the measure of +our political well-being." Is it generally known that Cuba was once +freely offered to this government? During the presidency of Jefferson, +while Spain was bowed beneath the yoke of France, the people of the +island, feeling themselves incompetent to maintain their independence, +sent a deputation to Washington city proposing its annexation to the +federal system of North America. The President, however, declined to +even consider the proffered acquisition. Again, in 1848, President +Polk authorized our minister at Madrid to offer a hundred million +dollars for a fee simple of the island, but it was rejected by Spain. + +Completely divided against itself, the mystery is how Cuba has been so +long sustained in its present system. Spain has crowded regiment after +regiment of her army into the island. It was like pouring water into a +sieve, the troops being absorbed by death almost as fast as they could +be landed. The combined slaughter brought about by patriot bullets, +hardships, exposure, fever, and every possible adverse circumstance +has been enormous beyond belief. In spite of all this sacrifice of +human life, besides millions of gold expended annually, what does +Spain gain by holding tenaciously to her title of the island? Nothing, +absolutely nothing. The time has long passed when the system of +extortion enforced upon the Cubans served to recuperate the royal +treasury. The tide has entirely changed in this respect, and though +the taxation has been increased, still the home government is mulcted +in the sum of six or eight millions of dollars annually to keep up the +present worse than useless system. The deficit of the Cuban budget for +the present year, as we were credibly informed, could not be less than +eight millions of dollars. How is Spain to meet this continuous drain +upon her resources? She is already financially bankrupt. It is in this +political strait that she seeks a one-sided treaty with the United +States, by means of which she hopes to eke out her possession of the +island a few years longer, through our liberality,--a treaty by which +she would gain some thirty millions of dollars annually, and we should +be just so much the poorer. + +As regards the final destiny of Cuba, that question will be settled by +certain economic laws which are as sure in their operation as are +those of gravitation. No matter what our wishes may be in the matter, +such individual desires are as nothing when arraigned against natural +laws. The commerce of the island is a stronger factor in the problem +than mere politics; it is the active agent of civilization all over +the world. It is not cannon, but ships; not gunpowder, but peaceful +freights, which settle the great questions of mercantile communities. +Krupp's hundred-ton guns will not control the fate of Cuba, but sugar +will. We have only to ask ourselves, Whither does the great commercial +interest of the island point? It is in the direction in which the +largest portion of her products find their market. If this were +England, towards that land her industry and her people would look +hopefully, but as it is the United States who take over ninety per +cent. of her entire exports, towards the country of the Stars and +Stripes she stretches out her hands, and asks for favorable treaties. + +At the present moment she has reached a crisis, where her condition is +absolutely desperate. The hour is big with fate to the people of Cuba. +As long as European soil will produce beets, the product of the cane +will find no market on that side of the Atlantic. Cuba must in the +future depend as much upon the United States as does Vermont, +Mississippi, New York, Ohio, or any other State. The effort to bring +about a reciprocal treaty of commerce with us is but the expression of +a natural tendency to closer bonds with this country. Thus it will be +seen that as regards her commercial existence, Cuba is already within +the economic orbit of our Union, though she seems to be so far away +politically. The world's centre of commercial gravity is changing very +fast by reason of the great and rapid development of the United +States, and all lands surrounding the union must conform to the +prevailing lines of motion. + +It is with infinite reluctance that the temporary sojourner in Cuba +leaves her delicious shores. A brief residence in the island passes +like a midsummer night's dream, while the memories one brings away +seem almost like delusive spots of the imagination. Smiling skies and +smiling waters; groves of palms and oranges; the bloom of the +heliotrope, the jasmine and the rose; flights of strange and gaudy +birds; tropic nights at once luxurious and calm; clouds of fireflies +floating like unsphered stars on the night breeze; graceful figures of +dark-eyed senoritas in diaphanous drapery; picturesque groups of +Monteros, relieved by the dusky faces and stalwart forms of the sons +of Africa; undulating volantes, military pageants, ecclesiastical +processions, frowning fortresses, grim batteries, white sails, +fountains raining silver; all these images mingle in brilliant +kaleidoscopic combinations, changing and varying as the mind's eye +seeks to fix their features. Long after his departure from the +enchanting island, the traveler beholds these visions in the still +watches of the night, and again listens to the dash of the sea-green +waves at the foot of the Moro and the Punta, the roll of the drum and +the crash of arms upon the ramparts, or hears in fancy the thrilling +strains of music from the military band in the Paseo de Isabella. + +If it were possible to contemplate only the beautiful that nature has +so prodigally lavished on this Eden of the Gulf, shutting out all that +man has done and is doing to mar the blessings of heaven, while +closing our eyes to the myriad forms of human misery that assail them +on every hand, then a visit to or a residence in Cuba would present a +succession of unalloyed pleasures, delightful as a poet's dream. But +the dark side of the picture will force itself upon us. The American +traveler, keenly alive to the social and political aspects of life, +appreciates in full force the evils that challenge his observation at +every step. If he contrasts the natural scenery with the familiar +pictures of home, he cannot help also contrasting the political +condition of the people with that of his own country. The existence, +almost under the shadow of the flag of the freest institutions the +earth ever knew, of a government as purely despotic as that of the +autocrat of Russia is a monstrous fact that must startle the most +indifferent observer. + +To go hence to Cuba is not merely to pass over a few degrees of +latitude,--it is to take a step from the nineteenth century back into +the dark ages. In the clime of sunshine and endless summer, we are in +the land of starless political darkness. Lying under the lee of a land +where every man is a sovereign is a realm where the lives, liberties, +and fortunes of all are held at the will of a single individual, who +acknowledges fealty only to a nominal ruler more than three thousand +miles across the sea. + +In close proximity to a country where the taxes are self-imposed and +so light as to be almost unfelt is one where each free family pays +over five hundred dollars per annum, directly and indirectly, for the +support of a system of bigoted tyranny, scarcely equaled +elsewhere,--forming an aggregate sum of over twenty-six millions of +dollars. For all this extortion no equivalent is received. No +representation, no utterance, for tongue or pen are alike proscribed; +no share of public honors, no office, no emolument. The industry of +the people is crippled, their intercourse with other nations is +hampered in every conceivable manner, and every liberal aspiration of +the human soul stifled in its birth. Can good morals and Christian +lives be expected of a people who are so down-trodden? + +Salubrious in climate, varied in production, and most fortunately +situated for commerce, there must yet be a grand future in store for +Cuba. Washed by the Gulf Stream on half her border, while the +Mississippi pours out its riches on one side and the Amazon on the +other, her home is naturally within our own constellation of stars, +and some of those who read these pages may live to see such a +consummation. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Due South or Cuba Past and Present, by +Maturin M. Ballou + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DUE SOUTH OR CUBA PAST AND PRESENT *** + +***** This file should be named 30130.txt or 30130.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/1/3/30130/ + +Produced by Julia Miller, Ritu Aggarwal and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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