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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:53:12 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:53:12 -0700 |
| commit | 3e479787f126d0bc4fa1dc5b4a1ee6ec791e352a (patch) | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/30139-0.txt b/30139-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..961a589 --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3454 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30139 *** + +THE BEAUTIES + +OF THE + +STATE OF WASHINGTON + +[Illustration] + +BY HARRY F. GILES--DEPUTY COMMISSIONER + + STATE BUREAU STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL--SECRETARY OF STATE-EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER. + + + + +[Illustration: THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER + +"_Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue_" + +_Copyright by Asahel Curtis_] + + + + +[Illustration: STATE OF WASHINGTON + +DEPARTMENT OF STATE + + BUREAU OF STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL, SECRETARY OF STATE + EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER + + THE BEAUTIES + of the + STATE of WASHINGTON + + A BOOK FOR TOURISTS + BY HARRY F. GILES, DEPUTY COMMISSIONER] + +[Illustration: SEAL OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON] + + OLYMPIA + FRANK M. LAMBORN, PUBLIC PRINTER + 1915 + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS. + + Page + List of Full Page Illustrations 3 + The Evergreen State 5 + Our Mountains 9 + Washington Forests 15 + The Climate 19 + Puget Sound 25-38 + Ideal for Yachting and Cruising 29 + Hood Canal 29 + Other Trips 31 + Commerce 32 + The East Shores 32 + The Islands 33 + San Juan Group 33 + Whidby Island 36 + Other Islands 36 + Olympic Peninsula 38 + The Harbor Country 40-48 + Grays Harbor 43 + Willapa Bay 46 + Mount Rainier National Park 49 + The Columbia River 54 + The Inland Empire 63-80 + Chief Features 64 + How to Reach Them 64 + The Yakima Valley 65 + The Wenatchee Valley 67 + Lake Chelan 68 + The Okanogan Highlands 70 + The Spokane Country 75 + The Wheat Plateau 79 + The Walla Walla Country 80 + The Columbia River 80 + Our Scenic Highways 81-89 + The Pacific Highway 81 + Sunset Highway 84 + Inland Empire Highway 86 + Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways 89 + A Sportsman's Paradise 91 + Cities and Suggested Trips 95 + Alaska--Our Ally 112 + Map Showing Principal Highways + + + + +FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + Cover Design (a water color) Miss Zola F. Gruhlke + Engravings By Western Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle + + THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Title. Photographer. Page + The Rhododendron (C.) Asahel Curtis Frontispiece + Lake Chelan (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 8 + A Forest Stream Curtis & Miller 16 + A Puget Sound Sunset Webster & Stevens 32 + Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake (C.) Curtis & Miller 49 + Sunnyside Canal (C.) Asahel Curtis 64 + Priest Rapids 80 + Columbia River from White Salmon (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 96 + + ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Deep Lake Curtis & Miller 4 + Snoqualmie Falls (C.) Romans Photo Co. 6 + Mount Baker (Gr.) 10 + Looking Across the Cascades (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 12 + Principal Trees in Washington C. H. Ziddell 14 + Lumber Industry (Gr.) 18 + Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.) Asahel Curtis 21 + Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.) 23 + Bremerton Scenes (Gr.) 24 + Tacoma and The Mountain Avery & Potter 27 + Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.) 28 + Seattle and The Olympics Curtis & Miller 30 + San Juan Islands (Gr.) J. A. McCormick 34 + Olympic Mountain Scenes (Gr.) 37 + Lake Crescent Curtis & Miller 39 + The Chehalis River (C.) Asahel Curtis 41 + Southwest Washington Views (Gr.) 44 + Surf on Washington Coast (C.) Asahel Curtis 47 + Mount Rainier National Park (Gr.) 51 + Mount Rainier and Lake Washington (C.) W. P. Romans 53 + Along the Columbia River (Gr.) 56 + Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.) 58 + Snake River Country Asahel Curtis 60 + Rock Lake Curtis & Miller 62 + The Yakima Valley Curtis & Miller 66 + The Wenatchee Valley Curtis & Miller 69 + The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.) 71 + Irrigation Scenes (Gr.) 73 + City of Spokane Frank Palmer 74 + Wheat Fields (Gr.) 76 + Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.) 78 + Along the Scenic Highways (Gr.) 82 + Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.) B. C. Collier 85 + Spokane Falls and Bridge Frank Palmer 87 + Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.) Grant Humes 90 + The Angler's Reward B. C. Collier 92 + Spokane Scenes (Gr.) 94 + Our Leading Educational Institutions (Gr.) 99 + Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.) 102 + Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.) 105 + Tacoma's Parks (Gr.) 108 + Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.) 111 + Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright. + +[Illustration: DEEP LAKE--A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: The EVERGREEN STATE + + "O beautiful and grand, + My own my Native Land! + Of thee I boast + Great Empire of the West, + The dearest and the best, + Made up of all the rest, + I loved thee most."] + + +The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the Union, named +for the "Father of His Country" and popularly called the "Evergreen +State," brings greetings. + +For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most beautiful +expression when all component elements have been harmoniously combined, +these words of welcome are written. You are invited to come and share +the joy that emanates from the satisfaction of living in a country as +nearly perfect as any that earth has to offer. + +In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that might appeal +to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, it is provided with all +things for ministering both to man's physical needs and to his innermost +longings. All forces have contributed towards its glory. More careful +preparation was never made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains +that reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their +innumerable streams and waterfalls; valleys and plateaus that spring +into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman; forests of big +trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect; the greatest of oceans +to temper with its breezes; inland seas and azure lakes to embellish and +attract--such are a few of the elements that make the State of +Washington and provide beauteous homes for its people. + + +[Illustration: SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)--"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST." + +Copyright by Romans Photo Co.] + +Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your youthful +impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to reign? You can +find it here--a place where wonderful pictures, real and far grander +than the famous paintings of your favorite artist, are constantly +visible from your kitchen window or from your work shop--and they need +no expensive frames to enhance their loveliness and no dusting to +prevent their obscurity. + +What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the brave mountaineers +who must yearly draw near the Almighty, and dare the elements by +treading dangerous yet entrancing trails to heights where the world +appears at your feet? Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to +accommodate yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic +highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you regard yourself +a mighty hunter and desire so to convince your friends? Or would you be +content to angle for the finny denizens of the deep with a certainty +that you will not in turn be tantalized? + +The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for all these. Its +mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not excelled by the most boasted +scenes of Switzerland. + +[Illustration: MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS.] + +Almost the year round the waters of Puget Sound and the harbors of the +southwest invite the small craft. Nearly 50,000 miles of scenic highway, +passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for your +automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and hoofed, will lure +you through many a jungle of delicate fern and sweet scented bramble; +while countless streams and lakes teem with fish of many species. + +Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, cozy camping +sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regattas, midwinter fairs, +roses at Christmas, golf the year round on turf that's always +green--these are a few of the charms that are as common in the state of +Washington as sands in the Sahara, or ice at the Poles. + +If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy that +exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's breast, +becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firmament are beheld, +then by all means visit this the "Evergreen State" and drink in the +glories which no book, howe'er so well written, and no picture, whoe'er +the artist, can portray with any degree of fullness or accuracy. + +Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. At one moment +you may be jostled along the streets of some metropolitan center among +people of many nationalities and within a mere hour or so be wafted to a +sequestered spot of transcendent beauty, where no voice but your own is +echoed by the hills and where the existence of any other human being to +share this planet can be completely forgotten. + +It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are planned: +mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out; lands are reclaimed from the +deep; orchards fill its valleys; wheat plateaus extend for miles; salmon +traps line the shores; its lumber supplies the world; its ships sail all +the seas; monstrous bridges cross the waterways; buildings vie with the +highest anywhere constructed; its schools rank first in the Union; its +men contribute to the world's greatness; its women vote and rear capable +families; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, originality, +enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes of the western +spirit, are evident throughout the state. + +Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 to over +1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been converted into +gardens, villages have developed into towns, while towns have grown into +cities, taking their places among the leading marts of the world. From a +frontier state it has come to be one of the greatest and most important +in the Union, adding to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that +has yet appeared on the horizon. + +[Illustration: LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN +THE WEST + +_"Pride of the waters of the world"_ + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR MOUNTAINS + + + "Touched with a light that hath no name, + A glory never sung, + Aloft on sky and mountain wall + Are God's great pictures hung."] + + +Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye of a visitor +upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists of the mountain +ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, forming, as it were, +ladders reaching from the green vales of earth to the blue vaults of +heaven. Silhouetted against the sky in the hazy distance, they are noted +by the westward bound traveler as soon as he reaches the highest point +in the divide of the Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way +eastward upon the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the +nearness of the welcome land. + +These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, both for their +scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence they exert on the +climate and on the lives of the people who build their homes in the +valleys below. Their supremacy is reflected by the thermometer, the +barometer, and the aerometer; for they help regulate the temperature, +the rainfall, and the wind's velocity. They form great repositories for +the waters that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. +Within their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious +and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their lower +zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of Washington's +big timber, while the alpine meadows above secure for the timid deer and +ptarmigan asylums of temporary freedom from too frequent disturbance by +prowling huntsmen. Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, +reserved for the wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields +traversed by the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. +Everywhere the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his +prowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking +mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to reach +some dizzy height. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE FROM PACK CREEK + +A CREVASSE + +AT THE SUMMIT + +SHUKSAN FALLS + +LAKE SIX-THOUSAND FEET + +MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM.] + +Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innumerable lakes, +beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady shores is many a sequestered +spot, most tempting to the camper who loves the mountain region; and +many a brook goes trickling over its stony course to join the rivers +below, pausing here and there in some shady dell to create a deep pool +for luring the fisherman, or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as +a waterfall of wonderful magnitude and magnificence. + +The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They remind us +perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth their fiery refuse, +or of the era when the sea covered most of what is now land. +Indestructible they stand and their rocky heights are in places +insurmountable. The works of man trespass everywhere else, but these +huge pillars of the ages rise in their majestic splendor and with +sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus far and no further! We will preserve +and guard your water and fuel supply. We will protect you from the +furies of the elements and produce materials for building your palaces. +We will create charming nooks where you may camp under the clear sky, +and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. We will fill the +brooks with swift darting fish; carpet the meadows with myriads of +flowers, ferns, and shrubs; and paint you pictures undreamt of by men +who have scorned our acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads +whereby your Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, +but not one of our number shall be moved nor its form be changed in the +least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty will we were +brought into existence." + +[Illustration: LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.] + +Each mountain range possesses its own distinct characteristics. Of least +importance, but none the less beautiful, are the Blue Mountains in the +southeastern corner of the state, providing pleasant summer retreats for +the people in that vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the +Olympic Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands +lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides. In +this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, presenting some +of the wildest and most inspiring scenery anywhere to be found. + +Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography of the state +are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from 5,000 to 8,000 feet +and named for the many hurrying streams that have cut their deep courses +upon the shady slopes. They extend from the British Columbia line +slightly southwest until divided by the Columbia river, whence they +continue through Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By +them the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct parts, +known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former comprising a portion +of the great Inland Empire. Forming a sort of spur on their east side, +north of the Columbia, and extending to the mountains of Idaho are the +beautiful rolling hills known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to +6,000 feet in altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on +their higher surfaces forests of pine. + +Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks tower above the +others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest by far is Mount Rainier +(or Mount Tacoma), second highest mountain in the United States proper, +14,408 feet in altitude and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and +Tacoma; Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania and +Yakima counties; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at the western edge +of Skamania county, reached from Castle Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, +10,730 feet, forty miles from Bellingham and one of its main +attractions; Mount Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier +Peak, 10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet is +the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that elevation. +Fifty-seven have already been named and measured. + +All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount Olympus in the +Olympics, constitute the main goals of the mountain loving clubs of the +northwest. Mountain phenomena are displayed in all with a maximum degree +of grandeur, insuring ample reward to those venturing to explore their +many fastnesses. + +[Illustration: A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK--PRINCIPAL TREES IN +WASHINGTON.] + +Photo by C. H. Ziddell. + + + + +[Illustration: WASHINGTON FORESTS + + "Cedar, and pine, and fir, and branching palm, + A sylvan scene, and as the ranks ascend + Shade above shade, a woody theater + Of stateliest view"] + +Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and mountains +of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions were originally left +bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a spirit of independence seem +to have pushed their bald heads up and above this beautiful covering +protecting the regions below. Into the fertile valleys and along the +river banks clear to the sea the stately ranks of these forests once +advanced, but such localities are now, for the most part, given over to +the cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transformation +are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the peaceful +pursuits of agriculture; for the broad Columbia plain was the only part +of the state dedicated from the first to the sole task of producing food +supplies rather than fuel and building material. + +About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up in eleven +national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, or to insure +permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen in her full pristine +glory--Conservation! Nearly six million acres more are under private +ownership. Investigation reveals evidences that their birth occurred +very many years ago, possibly five hundred or even six hundred years; +for that many rings have been counted on some of the largest trees. The +foliage appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it +first mingled with the landscape--hence the name "Evergreen State." + +The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scenery of the state +of Washington can be best realized by climbing to one of the heights +overlooking the timber line. From here one can readily see how perfectly +it hides every blemish of the irregular contour, blending beautifully +with the blue waters in the distance and the pale clouds floating above. +Thousands of greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light +yellowish tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of +bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast. + +Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its midst, +breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and cedars, it is easy +to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in size, form, color, and +variety, for + + "No tree in all the grove but has its charms, + Though each its hue peculiar." + +One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest forests of +the temperate zone; while standing proudly on every side are individual +giants, which for size can be duplicated nowhere else in the world, +excepting by occasional specimens of the famous Red Woods of California. + +These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and thoroughly +worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to mar their fame in +spite of the ages through which they have lived. Most prominent is the +Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), the giant of the +forest, growing erect as a plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown +two hundred feet or more above the ground. This is the most important +tree of the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past +ten years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in the +United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous proportions +of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a single one producing +material sufficient to build a palace of huge dimensions. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Curtis & Miller_ + +ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS + +"_O'erhung with wild woods, thickening green_"] + +Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching sometimes a height +of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases of over 20 feet; +yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds of all the shingles +produced in the United States. Similar to the Cypress, its sweet +soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous and always pleasing. Other +trees which provide lumber and add grace to the Washington woods are the +hemlocks, spruces, larches, and white firs, in the western part of +the state; and the pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern +counties. + +Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled throughout +the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the artistic design. +There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked madronas; the pale +barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, the bitter tasting +willows; the white flowered dogwood, prominent throughout the forests +until late in the spring, and occasionally found blooming in the fall; +the gray barked alder protecting the springs and mountain streams; the +sturdy oaks, skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and +the hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. Many of +these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find nothing more +suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city parks and boulevards. + +Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to have been +destined especially to yield food for the natural wanderers of the +forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be wanted in the state of +Washington. There is probably no other section of the world where wild +berries grow in greater profusion. Very prominent is the wild cherry, +the wild apple, the salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, +the salal berry, the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the +wild currant, and the raspberry. + +Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek with nature +lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for which this section of +the world is noted, is many a modest flower which in some sections +blooms nearly the whole year round, so soft is the climate; while the +pink petaled rhododendron, of bolder nature, Washington's state flower, +is prominent in June tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and +lining the course of many a pretty driveway. + +Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with its sweetness, +may be heard the music of some rippling stream winding its happy way +down the mountain side and playing, as it were, an accompaniment to the +duets of soul mated song birds unable to restrain their songs of joy. If +this is a wilderness then a wilderness is a paradise on earth. + +[Illustration: ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE CLIMATE + + "Eternal Spring with smiling Verdure here + Warms the mild Air and crowns the youthful year."] + + +People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip are always +interested in the climate of the locality attracting their attention, +for they know that absolute contentment in any clime, even for a brief +period, is impossible without a friendly attitude on the part of the +elements. So many regions seem to have been permanently blighted by +conditions opposed to human happiness, or at least to have been +forgotten in certain important essentials when Nature was passing round +her favors. + +The state of Washington, however, received a full share of climatic +blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes either of heat or +cold its climate is as temperate as that of southern England--a most +remarkable fact when one realizes that its latitude is higher than that +of the state of Maine and its northern boundary line corresponds to that +of North Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by the +protecting mountains and their dense forests together with the breezes +blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the mysterious Japan +Current. + +So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the mountainous +regions, that the same weight of clothing is by many found sufficient +the year round. In every section there is a long growing season and only +a short mild winter, known on the west side as the "rainy season." There +is never danger from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are +deflected to the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green +foliage the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture +available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of +flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle may be turned +loose almost any day in the year and the farmer is saved the necessity +of spending all his summer's profits in order that his livestock will +not starve during a long cold period. The lowest monthly normal +temperature, as deduced from a period of years, is for Seattle, 39°; +Spokane, 27°; and Walla Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal +temperatures of the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10°; +St. Paul, 12°; Des Moines, 20°; and Chicago, 24°. + +The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally stirring. +There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest parts the dryness of +the atmosphere favors evaporation. The nights are everywhere cool. When +millions in other climes are rolling about in their torturous beds, +struggling for the relief that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian +doffs his clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, +and is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the +morning refreshed and ready for life's battle. + + MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON + CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 57 62 61 57 59 + Seattle 60 64 63 58 61 + Tacoma 58 63 63 57 60 + Spokane 63 69 68 59 65 + + Chicago 66 72 71 64 68 + New York City 69 74 73 66 70 + Boston 66 72 70 63 68 + Washington, D. C. 73 77 75 68 73 + Philadelphia 72 76 74 68 72 + +The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, such as +discomforts the people in eastern cities during those months and causes +so many disappointments; for 80 per cent of our precipitation occurs +between October 15th and May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and +sunrise, so that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred. + +The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes while the +valleys, where the people make their homes, have no more than enough to +produce a vigorous plant growth. The average for the year on Puget Sound +is about the same as in Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New +York or Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation +in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that of California. + + +[Illustration: SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT.] + +The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, according to +the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 inches; Spokane, 18.8 +inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, 33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 +inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, +43.3 inches; Los Angeles, 15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches. + + MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 1.59 0.67 0.74 2.01 5.01 + Seattle 1.41 0.61 0.46 1.98 4.46 + Tacoma 1.97 0.69 0.66 2.79 5.91 + Spokane 1.61 0.67 0.48 1.01 3.8 + Walla Walla 1.2 0.4 0.4 0.9 2.9 + + Chicago 3.52 3.62 3.02 3.06 13.22 + New York City 3.41 4.08 4.38 3.44 15.31 + Boston 3.14 3.51 4.15 3.44 14.24 + Washington, D. C. 3.74 4.34 4.98 3.25 16.31 + Philadelphia 3.27 4.14 4.69 3.36 17.46 + +The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation also offer +protection against the extraordinary meteorological occurrences that so +often terrorize the people in more exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau +has no authentic record of a real tornado anywhere in the state of +Washington" says G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. +S. Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. Loss +of life never occurs from any of these causes. The atmosphere is always +pure and salubrious and the death rate is lowest of all states in the +Union, while its two largest cities have the lowest death rate of all +cities in the United States, having a population of 100,000 or over. + +After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend a season +where no dreary winters will engender melancholy while waiting for a +lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat will threaten prostration. +Come to a state that is as free as possible from the ills of unfriendly +phenomena, and where one beautiful day passes into the next as a +pleasant dream shades into the sweetest realities of life. + +[Illustration: YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND. + +A Pleasure Fleet + +Racing for Lipton Cup + +Motor Boating + +Idle Hour + +A Favorable Breeze] + +[Illustration: SCENES AT BREMERTON--ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL +STATIONS. + +The Oregon in Drydock + +A Naval Fleet in Port + +Battleship Nebraska + +Drydock] + + + + +[Illustration: PUGET SOUND + + "A land locked sea with harbors deep and wide + Where all the navies of the world could hide"] + + +One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great inland sea +known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca far into +the interior of the state of Washington. If the Strait mentioned, +together with Hood Canal and a portion of the Strait of Georgia are +included, and they will be in this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of +mirror like surface are encompassed within the green wooded shore lines +of as many lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every +direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, at +other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, and again the +modern cities located upon the shores. + +Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles beckoning +with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas shelter +hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing shore line the "tide +lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and supply a sort of neutral +ground, enjoyed now by the clam diggers or oyster culturists and again +claimed by the enveloping waters. + +Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile lands, which +have been released from their forest burdens, are now devoted to the +pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally to feed the multitudes +dwelling in the neighboring large cities. Here and there patches of +virgin growth in primeval splendor may still be seen, but usually, +excepting in the Hood Canal region, the forests have been forced back to +the foot hills, leaving in their wake the so-called logged-off areas +which are in turn rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further +back to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable +streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, transect the +lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous regions out into +the salts of the deep. + +Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out of the water, +and command the view for miles in every direction. Pictures are +everywhere presented which reproduced on canvass would insure the +immortality of any artist. Altogether the region presents the likeness +of one vast kingly garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured +and all wonders combine to enchant the visitor. + +[Illustration: SUMMER TIME PLEASURES.] + +This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable bulwarks of +mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but is at the very door +of the people and enjoyed by them while going about their daily tasks. +Nearly a million human beings look out upon its placid waters and +rejoice at their good fortune in being permitted to play, as it were, +upon its banks, and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering +breezes that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a +haven in winter--and there is room for ten times as many to make their +homes where these same joys may be experienced. + +Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period required +for the most extravagant display of human skill, was this great pleasure +resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, between the rising of the +waters that "drowned" the rivers once flowing where now the Sound +reposes and the advent of the glaciers which deposited the fertile +sediment to nourish the luxuriant growth appearing on every hand. + +[Illustration: TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR +YARD. + +Photo by Avery and Potter.] + +[Illustration: Bellingham From Sehome Hill + +Skagit River Valley + +Everett Cascade Mountains In Distance + +Berry Patch In The Puyallup Valley + +VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND.] + + +IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING. + +One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing a bit of +rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here safe from the storms +that pound sometimes against the outer coast line; for its waters +compose one great harbor, protected by the forests and mountains. One +may see "Uncle Sam's" powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming +toward Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest dry +dock owned by the U. S. Government is located. + +But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels alone. It +could not have been improved if created especially for the yacht, the +motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome canoe. Upon its +surface is held many a local speed contest, and the annual power boat +race is run from Ketchikan, Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are +ideal for the college regatta and for the difficult feats of the +hydroplane. During festive days many important events are pulled off, +while the happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along +the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above. + +For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages--never +threatened by tempests and always within reach of some of nature's most +glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable for camps are easily +found, from which short inland excursions may be made through alpine +meadows by winding trails to the summit of some mountain or to the +shores of some peaceful lake. + +Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft are not +necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular passenger +steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance make regular trips +throughout the year from every city on its shores to nearly every other +part of the Sound; while special summer time excursions are made from +the metropolitan centers to all the principal points of interest on +Puget Sound and to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska. + + +HOOD CANAL. + +The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains are in the +narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending southwesterly +and bending back into the heart of the Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists +riding over these waters for the first time are elated with the +splendors, and the frequent visitor never tires of the inspiring scenes +that everywhere greet the eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms +and settlements in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge is +at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated ridges are +continually visible from the deck of a passing steamer. Easily +distinguishable also are the deep canyons cut by the several main +streams working their way towards the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs +and creating falls of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the +Dusewallips, the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are some +of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails are familiar to +those making frequent pilgrimages thither. + +[Illustration: A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE--ELLIOTT BAY AND THE +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain summer resort +reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish valley containing the +Indian reservation of the same name. At Union City one may take the +stage over a well traveled road through groves and vales to Shelton, +county seat of Mason county, where regular steamers connect with all +Puget Sound points--thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula. + + +OTHER TRIPS. + +Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main traveled waters +of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia and Shelton, to +Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, Port Townsend, and Port +Angeles; also out to the ocean or through the San Juan Islands to +Victoria and Vancouver in British Columbia. The mountains are always in +sight although not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a +continual procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, +gardens, orchards, green meadows, and summer homes. + +Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a myriad +shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the hovering clouds, +which assume various grotesque shapes above the shimmering waters; and +even at night time when threading the channel marked by the twinkling +beacon lights, or entering the harbor of a city resplendent with +thousands of glittering incandescents. + + +COMMERCE. + +Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many that suggest +the state's commercial importance, for these waters produce many million +dollars worth of fish each year, and the neighboring shores have the +largest saw mills in the world, supplying a big share of the +4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is Washington's annual contribution +and insures her first place in the Union. Out from Bellingham and +Anacortes may be observed the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being +raised, with sometimes 50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their +meshes, soon to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and +shipped to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are +seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes of +manufactured products which for the entire state approaches the +stupendous sum of $300,000,000 yearly. + + +THE EAST SHORES. + +The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east shores, +where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with farms and +gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade Mountains, +comprising five of the most densely populated counties in the state. +Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest cities, Seattle, +Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center of a rich territory +supporting numerous smaller cities. At the southern limit is Olympia, +the state capital. + +Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, +vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which go to support +those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship building, mining, and +other manufacturing industries, and the diversified business pursuits. + +Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost unbroken +string of electric railways render good local service, while excellent +roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross the section and unite +the people with indestructible bonds of friendship and mutual +interests. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Webster & Stevens_ + +A PUGET SOUND SUNSET + + "_When Sol in joy is seen to leave + The earth with crimson beam._"] + +A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other parts of +the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, one of the +grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, forming the eastern +boundary to Seattle, providing sites for country homes and parks, and +embellishing its boulevard system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of +similar importance to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a +number of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma. + + +THE ISLANDS. + +Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the many +enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to Blaine and within +easy reach of the cities located upon its shores. Some are hidden within +partially concealed bays and others appear like portions of the mainland +until circumnavigation has proved their seclusion. Although a few have +sufficient area and commercial importance to form entire counties, the +larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are tiny gems +suitable only for private resorts away from the busy cities. Nearly all +are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled with flowers and ferns, and +girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting the real charms of camp life. + + +SAN JUAN GROUP. + +Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful than the San +Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits of Georgia, rivaling as +they do the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence or the classical Grecian +Archipelago. There are 172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting +their own peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and +shown only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas and +Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are Lummi, Guemes, and +Cypress, similar in formation and of like attractiveness. They are +approachable with almost any kind of craft, no great distances separate +them, and often there is just passage for a steamer. They offer rare +opportunity for playing hide and seek on the water, a game which in days +gone by men played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the +international boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of +safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter. + +[Illustration: THE SUCIA ISLAND + +BATTLESHIP ISLAND + +WALDRON ISLAND + +JAPANESE ISLAND. EAST SOUND + +FIRST IRISHMAN IN AMERICA--BLAKELY ISLAND + +TURTLEBACK MOUNTAIN, ORCAS ISLAND + +AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS. + +Photos by J. A. McCormick.] + +And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! Had it not been +for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in 1871, the Union Jack +instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes might today be floating over +them. The two distinct camps on San Juan Island where the British "Red +Coats" and the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, +are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche Harbor, +and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat. + +The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, Bellingham or +Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns including Friday Harbor, +where the University Marine Station and two large salmon canneries are +located; Roche Harbor, where one of the largest lime kilns is +prospering; and Deer Harbor, West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and +Doebay, attractive as summer resorts. + +Many people spend their summers among these isles. The tourist with +limited time should, besides visiting the historic sites on San Juan, +make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas Island. Two good wagon roads +lead all the way to the top, the one from East Sound and the other from +Olga. A pleasant day's outing is enjoyed by going up one way and +returning by the other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared +with the peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more +comprehensive outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the +"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the beautiful +country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired Seattle ship +builder, who has harnessed the water power from the lakes lying a few +hundred feet above and equipped a modern mansion with all that man can +desire or money and art can supply. Who would guess that a great pipe +organ might be heard in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, +bursting out in unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of +the great composers. + + +WHIDBY ISLAND. + +Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohomish counties, +midway in the Sound where the views of the Cascades and the Olympics are +unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the second largest island in the United +States proper and sometimes called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." +With Camano Island on the east and two other very small ones it +constitutes an independent county. Having much water front and its +western shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are +felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no mountains to +climb, although a number of eminences offer views of the distant +landscape. + +The largest improvement has been near the southern extremity and between +Coupeville and the northern limits, where the world's record for wheat +production per acre was made. A beautiful road decorated with +rhododendrons leads from Fort Casey to Deception Pass separating it from +Fidalgo Island on the north, which is connected with the mainland by a +first class highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer +Chautauquas are held and many campers congregate. + + +OTHER ISLANDS. + +A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, having forty +miles of water front lined with summer homes or suitable for camping +sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma are Vashon and Maury +Islands, practically one, comprising some twenty-three thousand acres, +which yield for these cities berries, fruits, vegetables, and flowers, +and offer some of the most delightful sites for homes along their fifty +miles of attractive shore line. + +Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of the Bay Island +country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and offering unlimited +opportunities for campers who are always welcomed by the hospitable +ranchers. Hartstine Island maintains one of the largest vineyards in the +west, yielding delicious grapes which find their way to distant eastern +markets. Numerous smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and +insure pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life. + +[Illustration: MT. OLYMPUS + +FALLS + +BRIDAL VEIL FALLS + +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS FROM HOOD CANAL + +WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS.] + + +OLYMPIC PENINSULA. + +Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and extending from the +Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the Chehalis river valley is the +vast Olympic Peninsula, whose resources and wonders are probably less +known than almost any other section of the world. The central portion +constitutes one great forest reserve within which is the Olympic +National Monument set apart by the government for the enjoyment of +nature lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns +situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monument +contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, the most +turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state. + +The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automobile. Highways +lead well up into the foothills from the cities of Port Angeles, Sequim, +Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal +points, and passable trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It +is easy to surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the +approach of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous +colors which make the region famous for its beauty. + +It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of choicest +timber remain uncut; valuable ore veins and a vast lake of petroleum are +buried within its depths; land well suited for agriculture girdles the +entire peninsula; and the neighboring waters yield liberal quantities of +fish. + +Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supplemented with the +conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. Among these are Sol Duc +Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol Duc river, where a little palace +has been lifted into the mountains, Government Hot Springs, and Lake +Crescent, all reached from Port Angeles; Lake Cushman, approached from +Hoodsport; and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to any of +these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy the most +extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer. + +[Illustration: LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE HARBOR COUNTRY + + "We stand on beetling crag or cliff and gaze from farthest west + To the bounding ocean billows, to the broad free sea, + We hail the flags of all the earth and welcome here to rest + Amidst the smiling waters by the tall fir tree."] + + +Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the "Harbor Country," +the only part of the state where almost simultaneously one may enjoy the +rare combination of the unobstructed ocean, an inland sea, and trout +streams lined with giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon +the dominions of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab +seemingly try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding +splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to the +remarkable competition. + +Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this section, at +least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon another variety +of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and experience again the +pleasure of riding through a valley that appeals alike to the Pullman +passenger and to the automobilist; for it is human nature to love a +change, even if one's home environment approaches perfection itself. + +There are two important salt water harbors in southwest Washington, the +more northerly one in Chehalis county, and named Grays Harbor after the +great explorer who discovered it in 1792, and the southern one in +Pacific county bearing an Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated +by only a few miles of territory, which is served by no railroad other +than a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by +Centralia, excepting that during the summer months auto stages traverse +the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland; for the beach here is level and +broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the tide has receded, that it +is used as a highway, and even as a race track for automobiles and +motorcycles. This is true not only of the portion lying between the +two harbors but also of the twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" +extending from Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia. + +[Illustration: ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY. + +Copyright by Asahel Curtis.] + +The entire region is fraught with charms that can be duplicated nowhere +else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are patronized especially by +people from the Sound cities and from southwest Washington. North Beach +to the south of Willapa Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and +other Oregon cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are +numerous, when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity of +visiting the seashore. + +[Illustration: POINT GRENVILLE.] + +The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bathing in the surf or +burrowing in the warm sands; hunting for shells, agates, and Indian +relics; rowing, and trolling for salmon; or searching for the rare +floral specimens abounding in the neighboring woods occupy the time of +many. Others enjoy visiting the canneries, observing the motor races, or +watching the sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into +the harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by some +fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam bakes and, at the +end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach parties and the story +telling, after which one is lulled into sweet slumber by the unceasing +roar of the ocean surf. + +So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach will +undoubtedly in time be ornate with one continuous array of summer +resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the mouth of the +Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the Straits, and interrupted +only by the narrow gaps marking the entrances to the two harbors. Every +manner of dwelling is provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. +Cottages may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one +of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea. + + +GRAYS HARBOR. + +To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the ocean, means a trip +through the wide fertile valley of the Chehalis river, either by auto or +over one of the three transcontinental railroads that serve it. The +entire journey presents a panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream +itself is conspicuous, tracing the valley's boundary on one side and +again on the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the +sea. Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still marked +by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its banks, and again by +some rustic bridge where the highway crosses. + +[Illustration: SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR.] + +More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens and the harbor +is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including Oakville, noted for large +shipments of cascara bark; Elma, an industrial center; and Montesano, +the county seat and head of river navigation. Green meadows, wooded +slopes, and cultivated farms on both sides of the river absorb the +attention until Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, +are reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth within +the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have now a combined +population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the census returns of 1900. +Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain the homes of some of the +wealthiest men in the state. + +[Illustration: MT. ST. HELENS AND SPIRIT LAKE + +SMELT FISHING ON THE COWLITZ + +AT THE OCEAN BEACH + +THE KALAMA RIVER + +A LOAD OF OYSTERS--WILLAPA HARBOR + +WHALING STATION ON GRAYS HARBOR + +SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS.] + +Such development has been due largely to the importance of the lumber +industry which in this section of the state has assumed large +proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious yards, and the huge +vessels loading for foreign ports are common sights within the cities. +Farther away in the logging camps the agility of the lumberjack is +exhibited as he lays low the giants of the forest and trims the logs +ready for the mills. + +The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking a ride upon its +waters. Regular steamers make the round trip each day, stopping at many +points of interest, both in the north and the south bay, including the +North Jetty under construction by the United States government, +Westport, where the life saving station and the wireless telegraph +station are located, and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations +in the northwest. On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be +seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and visit +Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes that engage +the evenings of the summer dwellers. + +Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts near the +terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits; while those +desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable excursions into the +wild Olympic region, exploring the forested hills, visiting the oil +prospects, or hunting and fishing. + +Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis county alone +are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which passes near +interesting scenes. One road extends to the south of the harbor and +another to the beach resorts at the north. The Olympic Highway, one of +the state primary highways, leads east to the Sound country, and +northward up the Humptulips Valley, through the big timber to Lake +Quiniault, located in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the +Quiniault Indian Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the +people living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should plan +their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault River in Indian +canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this way from Mount Olympus in +1913, pronounced it the best part of the entire outing: + +"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties and +experiences beggars description--the swift current, the whirling eddies, +the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into the air to catch the +flying insects, the banks clothed with magnificent forests, log jams +through which or under which we passed, animated branches marking the +rhythmic motion of the current, the floating canoes gliding into the +deeper, darker water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever +on to the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through +the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next test of +skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating bits of +history or legends which explained names or some natural phenomenon. The +boom of the surf announced the end of the journey. As the Mountaineers +left the canoes on the beach at Taholah, it was agreed that the trip +down the Quiniault marked the red-letter day of the 1913 outing." + + +WILLAPA BAY. + +[Illustration: TWO PATRIARCHS--ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE.] + +The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, composed of two +sections, one extending southward and separated from the ocean by a long +narrow peninsula, nowhere more than two miles in width, and the other +reaching eastward to South Bend and Raymond. Into it flows Willapa +river, besides other short but swift mountain streams teeming with trout +and other game fish. The bar is about a mile wide and the waters +covering it 28 1/2 feet deep at low tide, thus enabling sea-going +vessels to cross without the aid of tugs--a great advantage to ocean +liners and big lumber schooners, which may be seen almost any day either +lying at the docks or loaded to the gunwale passing out to sea. + +The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Columbia River. +People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam plans to dig a canal +through this narrow strip so that vessels may enter the river by way of +Willapa Bay and avoid the Columbia bar, kept open by jetties built at +enormous expense. + +[Illustration: SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples of what +lumbering and fishing have done for Washington municipalities. Where a +few years ago was nothing but a wilderness, known only to the Indians or +an occasional fisherman, are now busy marts with extensive waterfront +factory sites. Pretty roads start from these cities and wind along the +harbor front or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made +to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing stations. Crab +and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen here to advantage, +Tokeland being the place where eastern oysters were first transplanted +for mercantile purposes. + +South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the North Beach +ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view of the bay, and the +ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, +all passengers are transferred to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for +Ilwaco and Megler, whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train +makes frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive summer +cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly visible on the right. + +Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula is the quaint +town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. Near by are the most +extensive cranberry marshes in the state. Another attraction is "North +Head," most southwesterly point in the state of Washington, where an +unobstructed view of the ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen +the waters of the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in +Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, the +wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of sea lions are +usually sunning themselves. + +Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River may be chosen +to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be quickly reached by the +Pacific Highway or by rail. Every tourist should make at least one visit +to the Harbor Country and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the +state. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE + +"_Owning no mightier but the King of kings_" + +_Copyright by Curtis & Miller_] + + + + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK + + "What vastness and sublimity + Were spread before our eager gaze! + What wild and varied scenery! + What pictures for the poets lays!"] + + +One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding promontory +nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a panoramic view most +wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the sun's warm rays were +unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure as the nectar of heaven. Only +five hours before I had left the city of Tacoma and a little earlier +Seattle--two great cities throbbing with the activities of nearly a half +million people engaged in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits. + +Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the green +valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay--the nearest only forty +miles distant by an air line, close to the waters of Puget Sound. Yet +here, almost in sight of them, I was enjoying a quietude known only to +the haunts of nature. More than seven thousand feet above me towered the +majestic dome of the second highest pinnacle in the United States, +reserving observation to the north until its summit should be reached, +while far toward the east and the south extended range upon range of +mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered around their chief. Here +and there among them appeared the sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in +Washington; and Hood, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in +Oregon. Between their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep +canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state. + +Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way down the +mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged ridges. Between them +and below were spread the meadowed alpine parks or abandoned +cirques--veritable fairylands--which had been carved out by these +superhuman agencies eons before. Barely distinguishable was the road by +which I had made the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across +the face of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams +glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the +profound hollows formed by the extending hills. + +The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of themselves worth +the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen to Ashford where +each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving Tacoma, the highway threads +a picturesque gravelly prairie for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful +canyon road, crosses the Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the +Nisqually Canyon a thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin +forests, reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually +Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be continued +afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage. + +This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. Perhaps no +other area in the world brings so many and such varied natural wonders +to the very doors of two great cities. It contains a total of 207,360 +acres, or 324 square miles, of which 100 square miles is occupied by +Mount Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently +directly from sea level, and visible from almost every point in the +state. + +No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists than this mighty +pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial area, no less than 45 +square miles in extent, exceeds that of any other peak in the United +States. One of the most interesting glaciers is Carbon on the north +slope, reaching down to a lower elevation than any other; the most +readily reached is the Nisqually, five miles in length; and the largest +is the White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, +Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, North and South +Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important secondary glaciers are Van +Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Paradise, and Interglacier. + +[Illustration: PARADISE PARK + +ON THE WAY DOWN + +AVALANCHE LILIES + +THE ASCENT + +IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.] + +The summit may be reached by five different routes. These are the +Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, Ptarmigan Ridge, and +Emmon's or the White Glacier route. The Paradise Valley (known also as +the "Gibraltar") route, on the south side, is by far the most popular, +for it is well provided with hotel accommodations, and both the +government road and Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the +Clouds, at the mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village +at midnight, arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about +5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the mountain, at about +11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see more than a hundred +miles in every direction, far away to the ocean on the west and into the +great Inland Empire on the east. The snow-capped peaks already noted are +seen toward the south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, +Shuksan, Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north; while the Mother, the +Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range near by seem +like mere foothills, between eight and nine thousand feet below. No +grander or more inspiring view may be observed anywhere in the world. + +Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a few, and +always with the aid of an experienced guide. The largest measure of real +joy is found in the alpine "parks." The best known and most frequented +is along the Paradise River. Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, +are Indian Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others +requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest and most +beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews and Grand Parks. + +Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural amphitheaters +present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any underbrush exists in them but +many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and trees abound; three hundred distinct +plants are said to exist; pretty lakelets gem their surface; and all are +drained by trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing +waterfalls of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting glaciers +to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, lead to every +point of interest and extend clear around the mountain. Camping places +are plentiful or accommodations may be obtained at comfortable hotels. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER--LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER + + "Or lose thyself in the continuous woods + Where rolls the Oregon."] + + +This wonderful and majestic river whose history is enhanced with legend, +offers the exploring tourist or curious sight-seer unusual opportunities +to indulge his unbounded imagination and to satisfy his desire for the +spectacular in nature. Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest +importance in northwest history, while interwoven with the +incontrovertible happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. +Overlooking its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific +northwest, upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its +persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous cities of +the country. + +One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with many important +tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five times the area of the +state of Washington. By a series of cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold +turns, it flows nearly 1,400 miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, +before finally delivering the waters gathered from many sources to the +great Pacific ocean. + +Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast expenditures to +increase its value as a navigable stream. Near Stevenson the government +has built locks at a cost of several million dollars, enabling large +vessels to reach The Dalles, at present the head of navigation. At +Celilo, two hundred miles from its mouth, where, in twelve miles +distance, the river falls eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are +being constructed. When these are completed, merchant vessels can go +direct from the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four +hundred miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in +places by rapids and falls. + +[Illustration: INDIAN CANOE RACE.] + +Important as this river is from a commercial and geographic standpoint, +the greatest interest by far centers in the phenomena that are of its +own creation, visible every mile from its mouth to its source. A journey +upon its surface rivals one along the historic Rhine, the picturesque +Hudson, or the beautiful St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the +wilder grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the earth +and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and describe these ever +so briefly would require an entire volume. This short chapter is a +suggestion only that "By reason of scenic grandeur, absorbing interest +of physical features, the majesty and mystery of its flow through some +of the wildest as well as some of the most beautiful regions of the +globe, and at the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the +greatest of the oceans, this 'Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike +historian, scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature." + +In many places the natural appearances are the same now as when Gray, +Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the Northwest and Hudson's Bay +Company men first viewed its banks, with the exception that the shores +have in places been denuded of their largest timber and either a younger +growth has inherited the dominion or portions have been claimed for the +agriculturist. + +[Illustration: "BRIDGE OF THE GODS" + +CASTLE ROCK + +CAPE HORN AND CIGAR ROCK + +PACIFIC OCEAN FROM CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT LIGHT + +ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.] + +Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, "chugging" away +from their moorings in the early dawn and returning at the setting of +the sun heavily laden with the famous Columbia river salmon that feed +thousands throughout the world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which +there are many in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are +conspicuous and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the products +of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but far from the +sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the same waters that +conceal the treasures being sought. + +Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washington side and in +Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River is reached, one will have +passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, +Stevenson, White Salmon, and Wallula on the Washington side, besides +many important cities on the Oregon shores: namely, Astoria, the site of +the first settlement on the Columbia; Portland, the largest city in +Oregon, near the mouth of the Willamette; and The Dalles, for many years +the head of navigation. Kennewick and Pasco are located just beyond the +mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive full benefit from the improved +navigation conditions of the future. Between these larger towns is many +a tiny hamlet, while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty +dwellings slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler +dissatisfied with his own home. + +At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of wonderful +basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure of many tints. +Further away a murmuring brook or crystal streamlet may be heard +hurrying down a rocky hillside or winding between towering cliffs, +adding its share to the tuneful sound of the powerful orchestra that +seems everywhere to be heard. Constantly shifting color and shade +attract the eye and tones of varying quality please the ear. + +When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, stretching toward +the north, broad areas where man has mingled his skill with Nature's +works. Green fields, sometimes fringed with willows, near the +waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm houses, and dairies, are +visible as far as the eye can see. These evidences of man's +encroachments are noted all the way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which +city, the oldest in the state, a tourist should linger long enough to +appreciate the region which arrested the attention of our earliest +settlers and inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A +bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it with +the beautiful city of Portland. + +[Illustration: READY FOR MARKET + +SALMON FISHER'S RETREAT--MOUTH OF COLUMBIA + +50,000 AT THE CANNERY + +"LIFTING THE BRAIL", PUGET SOUND + +THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.] + +Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is ascended, until +the mountainous region is reached and the roar of the cascades is +distinctly heard. These cascades, according to Indian lore, were created +by the falling of the "Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from +shore to shore and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on +the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a mighty river +peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular buttresses +on either hand, the forest areas that apparently fell from above, trees +growing out of the water, petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within +the vicinity of Stevenson, and many other freaks of nature all seem to +strengthen the evidence on which this story is based. + +Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples of Nature's +diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle Rock, or +Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 feet high; St. +Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, considered one of the +wonders of the American continent; Oneonta Gorge, almost concealed +behind towering rocks; Multnomah Falls, a matchless waterfall with a +sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster +Rock, unsurpassed for beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape +Eternity, a massive precipice 1,000 feet in height. + +Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates climbing +some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over the wooded river banks +and visiting the rustic towns that lie at the foot of the mountains and +guard the gateway to the alluring valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat +of Skamania county, overlooking the cascade locks, and Carson, are +several hot springs where accommodations for the most particular are +available. From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its +source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. forest +nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the Government Hot +Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for climbing, offer expansive +views of the surrounding country. + +[Illustration: THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON. + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley takes one to +Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves in the foothills of +Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, a pow-wow place for the +Indians. On the way, hundreds of scientifically developed orchards, and +oat fields yielding over 100 bushels to the acre, are passed; also the +Northwest Electric Company's power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse +power, supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the +massive bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending color +may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia River and +the mountains to the east and the west, while the entire Hood River +Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is visible on the Oregon side. + +The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River is a journey +of surprises. The railroad follows the winding canyon past pretty +waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and emerges finally into a wide, +fertile plain overlooking the Columbia basin. Fields of waving grain and +other products exhibit the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those +desiring can motor from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to +the Columbia via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 +road across his 6,000-acre farm. + +Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before being joined +by the Snake River, it has drained a region noted for agricultural +superiority and contributed liberally to the needs of irrigation. The +"Big Bend" on the left, and the valleys watered by its tributaries from +the right, are described under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire." + +Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder scenes +are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, native trees +more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course of the stream more +winding. Startling phenomena appear in rapid succession, and scenes +unimagined will astonish the tourist who spends a little time in +re-exploring this great river, for ages a prize eagerly sought by the +searchers for the unknown. + +[Illustration: ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE INLAND EMPIRE + + "See Pan with flocks with fruits Pomona crowned: + Here blushing flora paints the enameled ground; + Here Ceres' gifts in waving prospect stand, + And nodding, tempt the joyful reapers hand."] + + +Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between the +Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland sea--the waters left +imprisoned when the ocean had receded. After many ages these pent up +waters burst the restraining barriers and forced their way to the ocean, +creating the deep canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad +plain, now known as the Inland Empire. + +What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed into a +"Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one of the bountiful "bread +baskets of the world" while its valleys yield generously of nearly all +the products of husbandry. Near its borders the mountains, with their +retinue of trees, flowers and grassy meadows, reach as far as the +invisible power permits and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, +to wind through and through and distribute the welcome waters that +enkindle the irrigated districts with life and activity. + +Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this wonderful plain, +but the brief description contemplated in these few pages must be +confined chiefly to Washington. The curious sight-seer or the serious +homeseeker can well afford to spend many days exploring this region, +marveling at both the mighty forces of creation and the embellishments +of man. Under far more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now +than when the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. +Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus Whitman, +supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable courage with the trusty +saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner or the rude river raft. Today +the palatial cars of four transcontinental lines make daily trips +across the state; branch lines accommodate the territory north and +south; and parts not reached by rail are served by well constructed +thorofares. + + +CHIEF FEATURES. + +In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important features are +the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan region; the Okanogan +Highlands with the valleys of the Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville +and Pend Oreille; the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake +River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their "coulees"; and +the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low bare ridges of a +semi-mountainous character which relieve the prairie effect and permit +cycloramic views of the surrounding territory. Among these are the +Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while +a number of spurs from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, +help form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain. + + +HOW TO REACH THEM. + +These different sections may be easily reached from almost any city in +the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can make a quick yet +comprehensive survey of eastern Washington in two ways. After seeing the +immediate Spokane vicinity and visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the +north, either automobiles or Great Northern trains will convey them up +the Colville Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, +whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and down the San +Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, whence the +journey may be continued to Wenatchee down the Okanogan Valley, both by +auto and rail. Side trips may be taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake +Chelan canyon, as well as to numerous other places of interest. From +Wenatchee the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures an +interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of the Big +Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by making a tour +through the Palouse to the Snake River and Walla Walla country. +Transportation leads from there direct to the Columbia River, and the +Yakima and Kittitas valleys. The Horse Heaven may be reached from +Kennewick and Pasco, or from Prosser. + +[Illustration: _Copyright by Asahel Curtis_ + +SUNNYSIDE CANAL--MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE + + "_And the old wilderness is changed + To cultured vale and hill_"] + +The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the Palouse, Snake +River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas valleys, from Ellensburg a +scenic overland route may be taken direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop +may be made to include Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big +Bend and the Spokane Country. + + +THE YAKIMA VALLEY. + +Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich territory +tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes Keechelus and +Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the Columbia--a total distance +of nearly 175 miles with a range of altitude, at the water's edge, +varying from 2,250 down to 340 feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima +Valley proper, the Kittitas and a number of minor valleys, including the +Naches, the Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and +the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just south of +"Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are located, two enterprising +cities, vieing for supremacy over the rich south half of Yakima county. +Further south is Prosser, county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is +North Yakima with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region +and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, is +Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima county +constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima Tribes dwell +peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the soil and occasionally +entertaining the people with many a "Round Up," or Wild West Show. At +Fort Simcoe is their school, deserving of a visit from anyone +interested. + +[Illustration: THE YAKIMA VALLEY--MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and bunch grass, +is irrigable land enough to support a population of a million people; +for the total water capacity as surveyed by the United States Government +is estimated at 927,000 acre feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. +Less than a third of this is at present cultivated and watered from +small canals, built by private capital, and from the two largest ones in +the state, constructed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter +are the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the +Sunnyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres. + +A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima river unfolds a +panorama of unusual breadth and interest. Instead of the heavy forests +of the west side, the sage brush struggles for existence just above the +main ditches; but the country below is checkered with orchards, farms, +and gardens; and cotton woods protect the banks of the streams. +Impressive is the sight in springtime when fruit trees are all in bloom +and the Blossom Festival, participated in by a hundred-thousand people, +is ushering in the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches +of color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester. + +[Illustration: A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.] + +From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most perfect +form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, vegetable +gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected and +crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and rivers, protected by +the brown hills near by and watched over by the mountains in the +distance, supply composition for pictures that in detail and variety +must discourage all competition. + + +THE WENATCHEE VALLEY. + +Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee Valley, +reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot hills of the Cascades. +This, too, was a desolate brown slope until the effects of irrigation +were felt on its rich volcanic ash soil. After that only ten years were +necessary to convert it into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of +the forlorn looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the +valley and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of +blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. +Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens below, +are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters that irrigate the +land; while dodging from one side of the vale to the other, or +paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the Wenatchee river hastens +onward towards the Columbia. + +The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered hills, spurs of +the Cascades, over which many trails lead to charming mountain lakes and +streams, where summer homes are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. +The east opens up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the +Columbia River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in +all the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in the +vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported in affluence by +successful fruit culture or gardening. + +Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including Wenatchee, +the metropolis of north central Washington, with a population of about +5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth +near the head of the valley; and Cashmere, midway between the two. The +pervading spirit is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee +red apple is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 +annually. + + +LAKE CHELAN. + +Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest sheets of +fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American continent. It is one +of a number of beautiful lakes found throughout the highlands in the +vicinity of the upper Columbia, but on account of its thrilling beauty +and easy approach has become one of the favorite resorts for the entire +northwest. + +It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes from the +Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. River boats, automobile +stages, or Great Northern trains allow three principal modes of +transportation, each of which reveals different scenes of interest. +During summer months the overland trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant +and presents the fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The +return might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the +Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course of four +miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower. + +[Illustration: THE WENATCHEE VALLEY--NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Columbia, +and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan canyon reaches in places +nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 +feet below the surface. Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to +Stehekin, views are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color +blending are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the +traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness of the +whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy with +divine nature. Among features of striking scenic importance are Railroad +Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 miles, the Stehekin River, and +Rainbow Falls. + + +THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS. + +This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating with +fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open forests of +spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the homeseeker, pleasure +for the sportsman, and continuous scenes of interest for the tourist are +suggested. Here one can yet feel the presence of the true western spirit +of frontiership, for this part of the state was the last to be thrown +open to settlers; and the Indians are still in full possession of the +Colville Indian reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the +south central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river to +the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the valleys yield +liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, and the higher lands +are devoted to grain and stock raising. Lumbering plays its part and +mining for precious metals assumes greater importance than elsewhere in +the state. + +[Illustration: SIMILKAMEEN RIVER NEAR OROVILLE + +FARM SCENE IN THE METHOW + +PATTERSON LAKE + +METHOW VALLEY + +FORT OKANOGAN--FIRST WHITE SETTLEMENT IN WASHINGTON + +ORCHARDS IN THE OKANOGAN VALLEY + +THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.] + +The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and the +Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil and the Methow +are dependent on highway conveyances. Of extreme interest is the ride +from Spokane up the Colville and Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with +a short side trip to Republic, the leading gold producing city in the +state. The railroad crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing +the unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion of King +George of England and the next back under the Stars and Stripes. +Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque canyons are +invaded before arriving at the heights from which Oroville appears far +below--requiring an hour for the train to descend by a series of +remarkable switchbacks. + +[Illustration: COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.] + +Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in their infancy, +for its development has been so recent; but therein lies much of its +charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading city is Newport, the +county seat, prettily located on both sides of the river, half in Idaho +and half in Washington. In Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, +and Colville, the largest city in the region, with a population of over +1,500 people. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's +Indian Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other +interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties. + +[Illustration: WINESAP TREE + +FIRST WATER ON THE LAND + +A VINEYARD + +PRUNE ORCHARD IN BLOOM + +IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.] + +[Illustration: THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK--MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE +DISTANCE. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + + +THE SPOKANE COUNTRY. + +From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire are easily +reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city and two others +operate trains; while a network of electric lines serves the immediate +vicinity, penetrating the territory as far south as Colfax, Palouse, and +Moscow; southwest to Medical Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden +Lake and Coeur d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic +sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each mode of +transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills nearest Spokane +are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther away are forests of +pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing many lakes teeming with trout +and black bass. Within a radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain +lakes, thirty-eight of which are ideally located and supplied with all +necessary equipment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second +largest fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden +Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National Forest +Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; Liberty Lake, +seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; Spirit Lake, +forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; and Twin Lakes, +thirty-three miles. + +The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. They are +neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and Olympics, but they +are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak in eastern Washington is +Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty miles northeast of the city. From its +summit one may look out into the three northwestern states of Oregon, +Idaho and Washington, and into the province of British Columbia; and +count seventeen different lakes and rivers. + +Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the +Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root mountains are +approached on the east. The roads westward and southward lead past well +cultivated gardens, green meadows and groves, until finally is spread +before one a sea of grain--continuous wheat fields--the Big Bend to the +west and the Palouse to the south. + +[Illustration: WHEAT RANCH + +HARVESTING + +SEEDING + +INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.] + +Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable roads in +America on account of the high class material of which it is +constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses the state of Idaho and +connects with roads leading to the National Parks in Montana. This +valley more than thirty miles in length, with an average width of eight +miles, comprises a level irrigated country cut up into intensive garden +and orchard tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising +apples, pears, cherries, small fruits, garden truck, poultry, and live +stock. The advantages of abundant water power, proximity to a great +city, rapid transit facilities, and a healthful climate, are quickly +transforming the region into one of attractive suburban homes. + +[Illustration: METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.] + +The Spokane River drops 1,280 feet in a distance of 100 miles, and 130 +feet within the city limits, falling precipitously 70 feet in the heart +of the business section, over a dam 200 feet wide. On both sides is +built the city sloping towards its waters and overlooking the country +beyond. Extensive economic developments are taking place, there being +seven distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly +$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power plants, +manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. Historical +events are associated with Fort George Wright, named for a famous Indian +fighter; Indian Canyon, tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane, +a pow-wow place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first +government Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early fur +traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle. + +[Illustration: A FAMOUS 600 ACRE ORCHARD + +PALOUSE FALLS 198 FEET + +WHITMAN'S MONUMENT + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS AN HOURS RIDE + +126 BOXES A YEAR + +SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.] + + +THE WHEAT PLATEAU. + +The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big bend of the +Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which stretches eastward until +it blends with the rolling Palouse, one of the richest farm regions in +the northwest, and southeast across the Snake River to the Blue +Mountains; although considerable wheat is raised in the country lying +between the Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties +to the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the waving +heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the horizon. The +combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, is a familiar example of +the immensity of the machinery needed when gathering the mammoth crop, +which for the entire state is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels +annually. + +The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" or old river courses, +sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is practiced and +where strings of small alkali lakes have been scattered. Two of the most +important are Moses Coulee in Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming +the boundary line between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old +bed of the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the Quincy +Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land to be some day +irrigated by water conducted under the Columbia river from Wenatchee +Lake in Chelan county. + +The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, Moses Lake, +near which irrigation from wells is successfully carried on, and Rock +Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the Palouse. The most important +river is the Palouse which creates the Palouse Falls just before joining +the Snake River. Near this stream are several prosperous cities, +including Colfax, Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College +and Experiment Station. + + +THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY. + +The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a canyon of +1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a natural dividing line +between Whitman and Franklin counties on the north, and Walla Walla, +Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the south. Its warm canyon is famous +for early fruits and berries which are shipped in carloads to eastern +and western points. + +Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all four counties to +the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally by orchards which assume +their greatest proportions in the beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla +valleys. Over this rich country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns +supreme, her authority being limited only by the Columbia and Snake +rivers, or the Blue Mountains; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy and +Clarkston are important centers in their own districts. + +Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wallula, the +site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla Walla. When +once seen, no words are needed to tell why these lovely plains, all +ready for the planting and moistened with sufficient rainfall annually, +were so attractive to the early settlers, and inspired the first serious +efforts at colonization. + + +THE COLUMBIA RIVER. + +All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through the Columbia +river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fraternity. The +grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the region, it supplies +unlimited water for successful irrigation and power purposes, and in +places still provides the principal mode of transportation. Between +Kettle Falls and the Snake river are a number of important rapids, chief +of which is Priest Rapids, just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a +descent of seventy feet and a possible horse power of half a million. + +Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of Kennewick and +Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to the sea as soon as the +Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest elevation in the Inland Empire +and surrounded by a large area of irrigable land, they are served by +three transcontinental railroads, permitting rapid transit to any part +of the northwest. + +[Illustration: PRIEST RAPIDS--SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND + +"_The river rolled in cataract through the cañon_"] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR SCENIC HIGHWAYS + + "They build and toil, each road a nervous wedge + To hew a way where seats of empire wait."] + + +The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of roads which, +finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineering and commercial +importance the French highways, and in scenic grandeur the mountain +passes of Switzerland. Easy approaches are being constructed to every +town and hamlet and into every farming community. So vigorously has the +work been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, except +Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its mountain +recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles have been already +completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth of broad thorofares, +boulevards, and country highways. The most important highways built and +maintained at state expense are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland +Empire, the Olympic and the National Park. + + +THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY. + +The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the state of +California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven miles north of +Washington's boundary line, a total distance of about two thousand +miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is within the state of Washington, +connecting Vancouver on the Columbia with Blaine at the international +line. It traverses nine counties of Washington, containing forty-eight +per cent of the wealth and fifty-five per cent of the population, and +passes through nine county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, +Vancouver, Kalama. Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and +Bellingham. + +[Illustration: PACIFIC HIGHWAY + +NATIONAL PARK HIGHWAY WILLAPA HARBOR + +STATE ROAD ALONG THE METHOW + +RAINIER NATIONAL PARK ROAD + +SUNSET BOULEVARD NEAR SPOKANE + +ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS.] + +From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward through the +prune and plum orchards of Clarke county, where more of these trees grow +than in all other parts of the state combined. Along the banks of the +historic Columbia and through the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it +winds toward Kelso, famous for smelt fisheries; and Castle Rock, the +gateway to Mount St. Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north +fork of the picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley +is followed to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly growing +railroad centers having a combined population of 15,500 people. Groves, +orchards, gardens and prairies line the smooth gravelly road from here +to Olympia, where the first view of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire +to swerve off toward Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly +completed Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, +is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins and +draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. Rising above the +famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to cross the oak moor lands +marking the beginning of Tacoma's playgrounds and reminding one of +southern England, the road soon enters Tacoma, third city in population +in the state. + +Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, touching +at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; at Auburn and Kent, +centers of a rich dairy section; and at Renton, bristling with +manufacturing importance near the southern end of beautiful Lake +Washington. A dozen miles more and you are on the streets of Seattle, +metropolis of the northwest and third city in size west of the Rocky +Mountains. + +Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds along by Lake +Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty lakes, entering green +woods, intersecting meadows, crossing streamlets, rising to sightly +plateaus and descending again to peaceful valleys before it reaches +Everett, a city of 32,000, located on an eminence overlooking the waters +of the Sound. + +The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway skirts the +Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish river in the +Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic road branches off to +Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Burlington, where it intersects the +Skagit county road leading from Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one +may appreciate the famous Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," +where 173 bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land +protected from the sea and river by immense dykes. + +Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is reached, said to +be the most picturesque on the entire route: for the Sound is plainly +seen from the shaded highway which clings to the side of Chuckanut +Mountain, while the electric interurban and the Great Northern railway +traverse the waterfront below. Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has +innumerable attractions to hold the tourist, who still has twenty miles' +journey if he would follow the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit +at Blaine, the most northwesterly municipality in the United States. +Near by is the Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the +northwest; where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland. + + +SUNSET HIGHWAY. + +The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting through +automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and connecting the +western with the eastern counties. Throughout its full four hundred +miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces the tourist to scenes which +for diversity and pleasant surprises, varying from rugged mountains and +roaring waterfalls to peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, +can nowhere be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades +are never more than five per cent. + +Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises northeastward +to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just below the town of +Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the same name, the "Niagara of +the West." This immense stream of water falling 268 feet, is now +harnessed to supply power and light to the cities and towns of Puget +Sound. Following the banks of this river the highway penetrates +entrancing forests and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and +river are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains +puffing towards the summit. + +[Illustration: SHOWING THE CAPITAL MT. RAINIER IN THE DISTANCE + +A TRAIL + +TUMWATER FALLS + +PUGET SOUND FROM PRIEST POINT PARK + +AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY.] + +Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of the Yakima, +and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake Keechelus, where the +government is building a huge dam for storing water to irrigate the +Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Passing the southern extremity of Lake +Kachees, another deep mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal +shipping center, enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the +cultured city of Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of +the state normals. + +The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a 5,200-foot pass, +permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier and Hood. The banks of +the Columbia are followed to Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central +Washington and the famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it +proceeds along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a +winding canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big +Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Waterville, the +county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly eastward to continue in +an almost unbroken line through expansive wheat fields towards Spokane, +the metropolitan city of the Inland Empire, over a hundred miles away. + +At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth while to +linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to be the old bed +of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has attracted attention +from geographers of international reputation. Wilbur, Davenport, the +county seat of Lincoln county, and Reardan, besides many smaller +settlements, almost lost in the midst of the great wheat fields, appear +before the thin woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached. + + +INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY. + +At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the Inland Empire Road, a +southern route to Spokane via Walla Walla. Following the Wenas Valley to +North Yakima, it continues southeast through the Union Gap and along the +Sunnyside Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a +splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance appears. +From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and entrance to the Horse +Heaven country, the road drops toward the Columbia river and soon +reaches Kennewick, the home of early strawberries, and Pasco, county +seat of Franklin county. + +[Illustration: LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST +CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + +From here the Central Washington Highway threads the extensive wheat +fields toward the northeast, passing through Connell, Lind, Ritzville, +and Sprague, all important wheat shipping centers; and Cheney, the site +of another state normal, fifteen miles southwest from the city of +Spokane. + +The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city of Walla Walla; +but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Columbia county, it divides, +uniting again near Rosalia, twenty-five miles south of Spokane. The +shorter route trends northeast, crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes +through Colfax, county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse +Valley. The other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, +enters Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the +eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending northward +it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields; enters Pullman, home of +the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakesdale; joins the other +branch at the county boundary line and soon reaches the southern +outskirts of Spokane. + +[Illustration: INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA.] + +From Spokane this road presses northward through the Colville Valley to +the Columbia, and thence to the international boundary line, having +previously passed at Deer Park the Arcadia orchard, largest commercial +apple orchard in the world; Loon Lake, a summer resort; Chewelah, a +mining town surrounded by a dairying country; and Colville, county seat +of Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant contrast +is this northern extension, regaining the mountains and evergreen +forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious waterfalls, and the +chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and green meadows. + + +OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS. + +The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel to Lake +Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, will form a +complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from which it derives its +name. Winding along at the foot of the mountains, it connects the +leading cities of the district and exposes some of the most scenic +features of the Sound country, including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan +de Fuca, Grays Harbor, and occasionally the Pacific Ocean. The principal +cities touched at are Shelton, Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Hoquiam, +Aberdeen, Elma and Olympia. + +[Illustration: ANACORTES ROAD.] + +The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rainier National Park, +whence it bears southward to the headwaters of the Cowlitz, crosses to +the Chehalis Valley and, after connecting with Chehalis and Centralia, +leads southwest, over the low coast range to Raymond and South Bend on +Willapa Bay, and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia. + +Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade mountains. Two are +nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass Highway, paralleling the +Sunset as far as North Yakima, and one along the north bank of the +Columbia. A third will sometime cross and connect the Skagit Valley with +the Methow. + +[Illustration: WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.] + + + + +[Illustration: A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE + + "The antlered monarch of the waste + Sprang from his heathery couch in haste"] + + +This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of approval from the +followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs are devoted to the +opportunities for the chase and the plentifulness of game fish and +birds. Of course, the real sportsman would rather discover the prey for +himself. To tell minutely where every prize is to be found would be like +disclosing the end of an interesting story before the beginning had been +read. But even if it were well to do so, every page in this publication +would be needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, +every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the quarry. + +That the common species of game are plentiful is superfluous to say. On +holidays and at week ends, during the open season, it is a familiar +sight to witness the khaki-suited brave looking sportsmen, with guns or +fish baskets and rods, clambering onto the trains or hiking to the +nearest point where the welcome woods and the realm of habitation meet. +It is equally common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along +at the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, +vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals. + +Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent are the Chinese +pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hungarian partridge, and +native prairie chickens; all are found along the streams or in the +clearings and fields of nearly every part of the state. Blue grouse are +quite plentiful in western Washington and in the wooded sections of +eastern Washington. Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan +Highlands and in several of the western counties. All species of ducks +are to be found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary +thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Empire; while +geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in eastern Washington. + +[Illustration: THE ANGLER'S REWARD. + +Photo by B. C. Collier] + +Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real fighting +trout as Washington; including especially the mountain, rainbow, cut +throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, and eastern brook, in all +lakes and mountain streams. Black bass and perch are very plentiful in +the land-locked lakes; and certain sections produce also many varieties +of white fish, sun fish, croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget +Sound, the harbors and the Columbia River contain many species of +salmon. + +The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, found chiefly in +the hills and mountains, although in some localities it invades the +domains of domestic animals. The leading varieties noted are the mule +and black tail, there being also a few white tail. In the Olympic region +are large herds of elk and a few in the southwest and northeastern +counties. These, however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain +goat and sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades; while the +black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and mountains; also +occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These latter, however, keep +themselves far removed from the main traveled roads; only by much care +are they located, so that the timid need have no fear of wandering in +the woods alone. + +In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of the year, five +trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a number by separate +counties. The state hatcheries alone planted 4,399,050 trout in 1913. +The common birds are propagated and set free at both public and private +expense. + +With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and counties +blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, the true +sportsman will never regret casting his lot with the state of +Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be encouraged to the +fullest degree. + +[Illustration: HAYDEN LAKE + +ROSE GARDEN HAYS PARK + +MANITOU PARK + +WATERFALL, INDIAN CANYON + +DOWN RIVER DRIVE + +IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE.] + + + + +[Illustration: CITIES AND SUGGESTED TRIPS + + "Spreads now many a stately city; + Solitude returns no more! + Happy country! happy people! + Peace prevails from shore to shore"] + + +The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural setting, and +reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic design of the +people who dwell within them. In western Washington they are usually +protected by verdure covered hills, and built to overlook the Sound, the +harbors, or the rivers. The smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams +which supply power and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible. + +The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and adorned +with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking in the +Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually in sight. In +the northern counties, however, the native trees and mountains again +become more prominent. + +All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable hotels. +Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and other public +buildings are of modern structure; the streets are generally paved; +practically all have electric lights and pure running water. The homes +are planned both for beauty and comfort, and are often surrounded by +green lawns or gardens where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers +reach perfection. + +The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the larger +centers, and the more important trips from each. They are arranged to +represent a tour about the state and in the order in which one might +visit all, or certain ones only, with the least expenditure of time. The +cities given have commercial organizations prepared to give further +information regarding their respective localities. + + +=SPOKANE:= Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest city in +the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500 per cent +in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River with +wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad +centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating on +their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, theaters, +public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in the northwest. +Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at more than +$2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city in the +United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with broad +highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There is a +boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing pool a +mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One may see +large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, and many +big development projects within a limited area. It is the home of the +North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per cent of the +apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. + + +A few of the more important trips should include the following: + + Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in + Eastern Washington. + + Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still + there). + + Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal + qualities of water; one of state's hospitals here. + Return by way of Cheney, home of one of state + normal schools. + + Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to + Hayden Lake. + + Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at + cost of $194,000. + + Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on + Waikiki Road. + + Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the + world. + + Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich + agricultural valley, good roads, mountains in + sight, many lakes. + + Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline + Falls; see Box and Grandview Canyons; river falls + 400 feet in 12 miles. + + Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse + country. + + Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State + College at Pullman, one of the most remarkable + rides--train, auto, or electric. + + Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver + mine in the world. + + Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon. + + Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam. + + See also "Spokane Country" under the "Inland + Empire." + + +=WALLA WALLA:= (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one time said to +"have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more pretty girls +than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. One of the +richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to Vancouver, oldest +city in the state, and home of first white woman in the Northwest. +Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered with waving +grain, surround it; while many a little stream, protected by cottonwoods +and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. The N. P. and O. W. R. & +N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway pass through. Trees line the well +paved streets and produce a particularly artistic effect. Here is +located Whitman College, on the site where Stevens made his famous +treaty with the Indians; the State Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit +Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest +bank in state. + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._ + + "_Superbly flowing_ + _By piny banks basaltiform, romantic_"] + + +Trips should include: + + The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for + wild and rugged canyons and summer resorts. + + Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only + pass to the Wallowa country in Oregon; Wallowa + Lake. + + Bingham Hot Springs, 40 miles; Clinker Hot + Springs. + + The famous Whitman monument at Waiilatpui, about 6 + miles west. + + The Columbia and Snake rivers; Palouse Falls; the + Little and Big Meadows. + + Vast wheat, barley and rye farms, some of which + contain 4,000 acres and more; also large stock + ranches. + + The Touchet Valley, where diversified farming is + successful. + + Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, + via Inland Empire Highway. + + Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake. + +[Illustration: A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA.] + + +=NORTH YAKIMA:= Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the largest body +of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. All points +in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are easily reached. +Business and public buildings are of artistic design. City is +symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It grew from +a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace with the rapid +development evident all up and down the valley. A blossom festival is +held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair in September. A +sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles through alfalfa +fields and orchards where the results of irrigation are displayed. Good +automobile roads extend in every direction. + + +Trips should include: + + A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive + view of valley. + + Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the + narrows to Soda Springs. + + Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the + return Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams are plainly seen. + + One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline + motor, automobile, or the N. P. Ry. The towns of + Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, Mabton, Granger, + Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, will + be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in + the state. + + Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the + Cascades--summer resorts and storage reservoirs. + + Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of + Basalt, following the American and Bumping rivers + to the summit of the Cascades. + + Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past + "Painted Rocks." + + Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain + and glacial scenery here rivals the Canadian + Rockies. + + Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas--good roads + and scenery. + + Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas--beautiful + scenery. + + +=ELLENSBURG:= Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 acres are +irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 acres more. +A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and dairy farms +gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where grand mountain +scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. One of the three +State Normals is here. Splendid highways. + + +Suggested trips: + + Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good + view of Mt. Stewart (9,470 feet). + + North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas. + + Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; + perpendicular cliffs on either side. + + Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and + Cle Elum, 40 miles. At these three beautiful lake + resorts, in the heart of the Cascades, the + Government is building, at mammoth expense, a + system of storage dams for watering the Yakima + Valley. + + Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table + Mountain, by a 5,200-foot pass from which Mt. + Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other peaks are visible. + + +=WENATCHEE:= The metropolis of North Central Washington, and gateway to +the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and Lake Chelan +regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and Wenatchee rivers, +with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles away. One continuous +orchard is seen up and down both valleys. Auto roads lead in all +directions to innumerable points of interest, and the navigable Columbia +provides transportation for many miles. A labyrinth of lakes and +beautiful farms are within easy reach. The mountain scenery is +impressive. For a commanding view one should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts +Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the smoke of Walla Walla are visible from +some points. Population 5,000. + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and + Rainbow Falls by Red Apple route and auto stage + and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 miles from Lake + Chelan--a star trip. + + Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. + Horseshoe Basin. + + Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a + beautiful natural park, between Lake Chelan and + Entiat Valley, reached by Government trail; good + hotels. + + Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, + wheat fields. + + Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or + train, boat part way if preferred. A week or more + could be spent to advantage. Historical sights are + numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian Mission. + Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in + state. Big irrigation projects are seen. Near + Oroville are Osoyoos, Wanacut and Epsom Salts + Lakes, and the Similkameen river. Okanogan, county + seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed. + + Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; + irrigation, captivating scenery, splendid roads. + + Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry + counties. + + Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake. + +[Illustration: + +DENNY HALL, U. OF W. + +UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON, SEATTLE + + _Administration Building + Domestic Science Hall + State College_ + +STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON, PULLMAN + +OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.] + + Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, + from which Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, + and the government fish hatcheries are easily + reached; also Icicle River by horseback over + government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, + (auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite + mountain resort 23 miles northwest. + + +=SNOHOMISH:= "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in Snohomish +county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country just east of +Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and river boats, +as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips. + + +=EVERETT:= "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. Located on a +sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish River. Views +on every side are superb. The Cascades and Olympics are clearly visible, +especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and many lesser peaks, including +Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. Parks, boulevards and +playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic completeness. The only +arsenic plant in the United States is here. It is an important +manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, machinery and paper. +Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country extends to the +Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is held in July. The +G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three interurbans center here, +while automobile roads, including the Pacific Highway, lead to the +mountains and to lake resorts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from + which may be reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and + Bridal Veil Falls; Lake Serene, Lake Isabel and + many scenic peaks easily climbed. + + Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and + Olney Falls. + + Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, + hunting, camping. + + Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, + and Mt. Pilchuck. + + Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic + Hot Springs. + + Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes + and resorts; Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other + towns--some excellent roads. + + Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and + Tulalip Indian Reservation. + + Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades. + + Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower + Stillaguamish where lie rich dyked lands. + + Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat + fields. + + Seattle 1 1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2 1/2 + hours to the north, by Pacific Highway. + + Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe + with its large condensery; state reformatory here. + + Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro + Woolley and La Conner. + + +=SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:= Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, Sedro +Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, famous +both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest farm land in +the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes are built to +protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have been known as +high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is nowhere in the state +more important, two condenseries being supported in Mount Vernon. Two +main railroad lines with branches, besides an interurban, serve the +section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County Highway cross at +Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, Anacortes, Everett +and east into the mountains, visible from almost every point. Many +beautiful lakes in region. + + +=ANACORTES:= A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity of +Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and Sound steamers +supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway starts here. Salmon +canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing and ship building may be +seen to advantage. + + +Suggested trips: + + South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry + and continue to Coupeville and Fort Casey. + Splendid roads; rhododendrons. + + East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water + always in sight. + + Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all + Sound points. + + +=BELLINGHAM:= Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern +Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the largest +salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills on +coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount Maker are +visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the state normal +schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay where the ships of +the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan Islands; fishing craft +may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have been provided. Pretty roads +lead through big timber in various directions. At its door stands Mount +Baker, one of main tourist objectives of the northwest, and one of the +most interesting mountains on the continent. The annual Marathon races, +participated in by the athletes of the world, are made to its summit and +back to Bellingham. + + +Suggested tours: + + Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited + time. + + Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan + islands; boat leaves every morning. See page 33. + + Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also + Deception Pass. + + U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; + Government bulb farm, in full bloom during April + and May; Country Club. + + Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; + Nooksack Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through + big timber. + + Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United + States. Birch Bay and Lincoln Park, visiting also + Custer, Lynden and Ferndale. + + Chuckanut Hill--view of Sound and surrounding + country. + + Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised--a rare + sight. + + Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver + and the ocean--splendid water trips. + + The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto. + + Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or + train. + + +=PORT ANGELES:= Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and nearer the +ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. Harbor is one of +the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive improvements are +taking place. It has one of the largest saw and shingle mills in the +world. No prettier scenery anywhere. + +[Illustration: + +BRINGING IN A WHALE + +INDIAN VILLAGE + +BURDEN BEARER + +CONTENTMENT + +CALLING MOTHER + +OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot + Springs. + + Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 + miles southwest, in the heart of the Olympics. + Hotel cost half a million. + + Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to + Mt. Olympus. + + Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built + at cost of $2,000,000.00 to furnish light and + power for entire Olympic Peninsula. + + Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see + largest irrigation tracts in Western Washington. + Mountains and Sound are continually in view. Trip + may be continued to Port Townsend or along the + Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor. + + +=PORT TOWNSEND:= "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on Quimper +Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery Bay, and +Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain View Park a broad +outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the waters mentioned, the +Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and hundreds of minor details. Other +beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls +than elsewhere in Western Washington. Pretty driveways decorated with +rhododendrons, unusual boating possibilities and easy approach to the +Olympics, make the region ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city +is Fort Worden, headquarters for the Puget Sound system of defenses, +where the 6th Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders +daily programs. Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound +stop daily. + + +Suggested trips: + + Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water. + + Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in + state, and other points on Whidbey Island. + + Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery. + + Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto. + + South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, + around Mt. Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood + Canal, returning via Discovery Bay and Saints + Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic Highway leads + clear through to Olympia. + + +=SEATTLE:= Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population of +325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, valleys +and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, but sloping +gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire area is +94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, Lake +Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor known as Elliott +Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines while an +elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects its +thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. There are +also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all points there is +visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics or Lake +Washington and the Cascades. + +Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its beauty. +Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and at the same +time have increased the area of the city by supplying material for +filling in the tide flats, now occupied by the most valuable factory +sites. The forty-two story Smith Building is the highest in the world +outside of New York. At Salmon Bay the Government is constructing its +second largest locks in a canal to connect the Sound with Lake +Washington. Six transcontinental lines have their terminals in this city +which is also the gateway to Alaska and the home port of the Great +Circle Route. + +[Illustration: SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW +YORK.] + + +Within the city one should visit: + + Lake Washington Canal Locks, Fort Lawton, West + Point Lighthouse, Loyal Height. + + University of Washington and A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, + overlooking Lake Washington. + + Lookout Tower at Volunteer Park. + + Lookout on forty-two story Smith Building. + + West Seattle and Alki Point--waterfront camping + sites inside city limits. + + Its many beautiful parks and matchless boulevard + system. + + +Outside trips should include: + + Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, 3 or 4 days--auto or + train. + + Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of America," and Lake + Crescent, via Port Angeles, 2 days--steamer and + auto. + + Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 day by Snoqualmie + Pass Road. + + Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near + North Bend. + + Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day. + + Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See + pages 29 and 33. + + Whidbey Island--Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still + Park, 1 or 2 days. + + Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds--paved + road. + + Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United + States, half day. Several good auto trips may be + taken from here. + + White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and + Auburn. A paved road extends all the way to Tacoma + and beyond. + + Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and + resort region between Seattle and Tacoma. + + Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett + on way. + + Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain + scenery, fishing and hunting; 1 or 2 days. + + Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the + Olympics. + +[Illustration: MT. BAKER PARK BOULEVARD AND LAKE WASHINGTON + +INTERLAKEN BOULEVARD + +TOTEM POLE IN PIONEER SQUARE + +VOLUNTEER PARK PORTION OF THE FORMAL GARDENS + +HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS.] + + Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake + Washington; go by the Duwamish river route and + return by Rainier Valley. + + Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines. + + See description of other Puget Sound cities, all + reached quickly. + + +=PUYALLUP:= A famous berry center in the rich Puyallup Valley. Over a +quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. All +Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans and +auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour to +Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and the +Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point for +Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern +entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma." + + +[Illustration: TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS +38,000.] + +=TACOMA:= Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance in the +state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the great +harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward the west +while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. Rainier (or Mt. +Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. A complete system +of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the natural beauty. The +residence portion of the city overlooks an extensive manufacturing +section which claims the largest meat packing establishment in the west, +the largest grain warehouse in the world, and the largest smelter west +of Butte City, with one of the tallest cement smokestacks in the world. +Tacoma is also the largest flour milling center west of Minneapolis and +the fifth city in exports and imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed +highway lead south through a vast natural park consisting of broad +prairies dotted with lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or +southeast into the famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its +improved parks comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point +Defiance park at northern extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright +Park in center of city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different +varieties. + +Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, seating +38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only one on +a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger depot, model +of its kind; and a speedway of 2 1/10 miles where the motor races of the +northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually. + + +Suggested trips outside of city: + + Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park--see + page 49. + + Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy + farms. + + American Lake, camping headquarters for the + National Guard. + + Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, + summer resorts on southern outskirts of city. Some + of the best natural roads in the world. + + Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake + Cushman and the Olympic Mountains--excellent + roads. + + Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer--immense water + power plants. + + Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild + Cat Falls. + + Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm--dozens of lakes in + vicinity. + + Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover + Creek. + + Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, + McNeils, Anderson and other islands. + + See also descriptions of other Puget Sound cities. + + +=OLYMPIA:= "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the Northwest," and +seat of state government. Three railroads and four state highways +converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low verdure covered +hills protecting the city and extending out along the shores. The +mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on the north, is +Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon trail is marked +by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. Tumwater, a mile +away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget Sound. In Olympia the +first store was opened for business in the state. The Old New England +Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial functions, is marked forever +by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, and the homes of the first +Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and General R. H. Milroy are +still to be seen. + + +Trips should include: + + Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls--trolley + cars, paved road. + + Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black + Lake, 5 miles; Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; + Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; Bloom's and Hewitt's + Lakes, 2 miles. + + Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux + Logging Camps. + + Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small + islands. + + Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and + Lake Cushman, 45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains + and Canal always in sight. + + Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper + Sound points. + + +=ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM:= Two cities on Grays Harbor, connected by +electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the southern route. +Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aberdeen), an increase +of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to lumbering and fishing +industries, but farming and dairying are gaining. Near by are some of +the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, including the +Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm ocean beaches +a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race tracks. Three +transcontinental trains serve the district. + +[Illustration: WRIGHT PARK + +A ROSE ARBOR + +POINT DEFIANCE PARK AND PUGET SOUND + +A SUBURBAN HOME ON AMERICAN LAKE + +IN AND ABOUT TACOMA.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just + across the Chehalis River. A trolley line connects + it with Aberdeen. + + Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sunset and Moclips + beaches, by auto, train or boat--ideal summer + resorts. + + Point Grenville and Cape Elizabeth, bold headlands + of the Olympics on either side of the Quiniault + River; near by are sporting grounds of the sea + lions. + + Montesano, county seat, at junction of Wynooche + with the Chehalis River (boat, train or auto). + Land near by produces 125 bushels of oats or 80 + tons of rutabagas to the acre. + + Around the harbor visiting Whaling station, + Government jetty and light house; see crab + fisheries; enjoy ocean swell. + + Humptulips Valley and Lake Quiniault in the Indian + Reservation; returning by canoe down Quiniault + River to Tahola, near the oil prospects; or + continue into the Olympics as far as desired. + + Read also "Harbor Country" chapter. + +[Illustration: HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES.] + + +=SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND:= Two progressive cities in southwestern +Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. Lumbering, +farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture are +sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country." + + +=CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS:= Important railroad centers four miles apart, +connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and Portland. Combined +population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A rich dairy and farm +country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, the Newaukum and +Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Centralia daily. Coal mines, +farms and lumber are important. Between cities are Southwest Washington +Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county seat, is a large condensery. The +Pacific Highway and the Rainier National Park Highway cross near by. + + +Suggested trips: + + The oldest Temple of Justice in the state--built + in 1851. + + Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of + Skookumchuck and Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn + where Gen. Grant stopped. + + Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. + Girl's school just north of Centralia. + + Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station. + + Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at + Tenino. + + Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs + Falls, Cowlitz Gorge. + + Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at + Winlock, Napavine, Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and + other pretty towns. See smelt fisheries and + ocean-going cigar shaped raft. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle + Rock--two weeks' trip. + + +=VANCOUVER:= Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson Bay +Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible from all +points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke county is +noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal habitat. +Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 acres of land, +300 of which constitute a natural park with many winding roads. State +schools for the deaf and the blind are located near. What is said to be +the oldest apple tree in the Northwest still thrives. Electric lines +extend to the outlying districts, also to Portland, Oregon, while auto +drives may be made along the river, nowhere more picturesque, or through +the surrounding prosperous farming districts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles (auto or steam cars). + + Washougal River, 20 miles east (auto or steam + cars). + + Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown Columbia Paper + Mills. + + Lake Merrill, costing $25.00 for four or five + persons. + + Portland, Oregon, the second city in the + Northwest, soon to be connected by a $1,750,000.00 + bridge across the Columbia. + + North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and + camping. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via + Lewis River. + + Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat + county, via White Salmon. + + Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in + Skamania county. + + White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich + picturesque region adapted to orchards and + farming. + + A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to + Celilo Falls. + +[Illustration: A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER.] + + +=GOLDENDALE:= County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. P. & S. +railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with valleys, +mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. Helens, are +always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. Historical sights are +numerous. + + + +[Illustration: BULL SEAL AND HAREM--PRIBILOF ISLANDS + +REINDEER HERD ON LOWER YUKON + +EXCURSION STEAMER NEAR TAKU GLACIER + +HYDRAULIC MINING + +RHUBARB AT SKAGWAY + +ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH.] + + + + +[Illustration: ALASKA,--OUR ALLY + + "A land of allurement and promise, + Bold venture and strenuous deed."] + + +When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alaska awaits you. +Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free empires! This region is so +extensive that even the state of Washington would be lost in its midst, +for its area is equal to that of the original thirteen colonies, with +Maine, Vermont, Ohio, Indiana, Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown +in, or one-fifth of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude +of 1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the +Atlantic to the Pacific. + +In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupendous mountains +reach to three and nearly four miles in height, loftier than any others +in the United States or its possessions. The Yukon River is 2,300 miles +in length and its nearest rival, 1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in +North America are here, which make those of Europe look like mere +pygmies, and volcanoes still in eruption may be viewed from a safe +point. The scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the +snowy peaks beyond is truly magnificent. + +It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there had been +produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price paid for its +purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each white person now +inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold mining and within the last +twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, seals, furs, copper and +silver--permanent resources of region. + +Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its latitude is +similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washington and as the Gulf +Stream affects England. Both plant and animal life flourish and about +100,000 square miles of land are available for agricultural purposes. + +To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip from +Seattle--a thousand miles of calm sea. + +[Illustration: MAP OF WASHINGTON] + +[Illustration: SEAL-OF-THE-STATE-OF-WASHINGTON] + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Page 22, "occurences" changed to "occurrences" (occurrences that so +often) + +Page 32, "stupenduous" changed to "stupendous" (the stupendous sum) + +Page 49, repeated word "of" removed from text. Text now reads (waters of +Puget Sound) + +Page 49, "State" changed to "States" (pinnacle in the United States) + +Page 67, "panaroma" changed to "panorama" (unfolds a panorama) + +Text uses both historic and current spelling of Whidby/Whidbey Island. + +This book spells "throroughfare" as "thorofare". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. Giles + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30139 *** diff --git a/30139-h/30139-h.htm b/30139-h/30139-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e6d83b --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-h/30139-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3706 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by Harry F. Giles. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + img {border: 0;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + .copyright {text-align: center; font-size: 70%;} + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: justify;} + + .bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 80%;} + .attrib {font-style: italic; font-size: 70%; text-align: left;} + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .unindent {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + .right {text-align: right;} + .poem {margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .poem2 {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .sig {margin-right: 10%; text-align: right;} + + .hang1 {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 5em;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30139 ***</div> + +<div class='bbox'> + +<h1>THE BEAUTIES</h1> + +<h3>OF THE</h3> + +<h1>STATE <small>OF</small> WASHINGTON<br /><br /></h1> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;"><a name="cover" id="cover"></a> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="306" height="450" alt="Cover image" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br /><br /><small><span class="smcap">by HARRY F. GILES—Deputy Commissioner</span></small><br /> + +<big>STATE BUREAU STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION</big><br /> +<small>I.M. HOWELL—<span class="smcap">Secretary of State-Ex-Officio Commissioner.</span></small><br /> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 386px;"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> +<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="386" height="600" alt="THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER</span><br /> +<div class='center'>"<i>Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue</i>"</div> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Asahel Curtis</i></div><br /> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/title_page.jpg" width="500" height="944" alt="Title page" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>STATE OF WASHINGTON</h2> + +<h4>DEPARTMENT OF STATE</h4> + +<h3>BUREAU OF STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION</h3> +<div class='center'> +I.M. HOWELL, SECRETARY OF STATE<br /> +EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER<br /><br /> +</div> + +<h1>THE BEAUTIES</h1> + +<h3>OF THE</h3> + +<h1>STATE <small>OF</small> WASHINGTON<br /><br /></h1> +<h3>A BOOK FOR TOURISTS</h3> +<h4>BY HARRY F. GILES, DEPUTY COMMISSIONER<br /></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +OLYMPIA<br /> +FRANK M. LAMBORN, PUBLIC PRINTER<br /> +1915<br /></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>TABLE OF CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>Page</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>List of Full Page Illustrations</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Evergreen State</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Our Mountains</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington Forests</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Climate</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a>-<a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ideal for Yachting and Cruising</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Hood Canal</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Other Trips</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Commerce</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The East Shores</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Islands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">San Juan Group</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whidby Island</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Other Islands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Olympic Peninsula</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Harbor Country</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_40">40</a>-<a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Grays Harbor</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Willapa Bay</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier National Park</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Columbia River</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Inland Empire</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_63">63</a>-<a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chief Features</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">How to Reach Them</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Yakima Valley</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Wenatchee Valley</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake Chelan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Okanogan Highlands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Spokane Country</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Wheat Plateau</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Walla Walla Country</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Columbia River</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Our Scenic Highways</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a>-<a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Pacific Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sunset Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Inland Empire Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Sportsman's Paradise</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cities and Suggested Trips</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alaska—Our Ally</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Map">Map Showing Principal Highways</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<h2>FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#cover">Cover Design</a> (a water color)</td><td align='right' colspan='2'>Miss Zola F. Gruhlke</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Engravings</td><td align='right' colspan='2'>By Western Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='3'><br />THREE-COLOR HALFTONES.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Title.</i></td><td align='center'><i>Photographer.</i></td><td align='right'><i>Page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Rhododendron (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lake Chelan (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#chelan">8</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Forest Stream</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Puget Sound Sunset</td><td align='left'>Webster & Stevens</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake (C.)</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#rainier">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunnyside Canal (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Priest Rapids</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Columbia River from White Salmon (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#columbia">96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='3'><br />ONE-COLOR HALFTONES.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Deep Lake</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Snoqualmie Falls (C.)</td><td align='left'>Romans Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Mount Baker (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Looking Across the Cascades (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Principal Trees in Washington</td><td align='left'>C. H. Ziddell</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Lumber Industry (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Bremerton Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma and The Mountain</td><td align='left'>Avery & Potter</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle and The Olympics</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>San Juan Islands (Gr.)</td><td align='left'>J. A. McCormick</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Olympic Mountain Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lake Crescent</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Chehalis River (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Southwest Washington Views (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Surf on Washington Coast (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Mount Rainier National Park (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier and Lake Washington (C.)</td><td align='left'>W. P. Romans</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Along the Columbia River (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Snake River Country</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Lake</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Yakima Valley</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Wenatchee Valley</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Irrigation Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>City of Spokane</td><td align='left'>Frank Palmer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Wheat Fields (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Along the Scenic Highways (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.)</td><td align='left'>B. C. Collier</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane Falls and Bridge</td><td align='left'>Frank Palmer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.)</td><td align='left'>Grant Humes</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Angler's Reward</td><td align='left'>B. C. Collier</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Spokane Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Our Leading Educational Institutions (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Tacoma's Parks (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright.<br /></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p004.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="DEEP LAKE—A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DEEP LAKE—A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p005.png" width="500" height="241" alt="The EVERGREEN STATE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the +Union, named for the "Father of His Country" and popularly +called the "Evergreen State," brings greetings.</p> + +<p>For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most +beautiful expression when all component elements have been +harmoniously combined, these words of welcome are written. +You are invited to come and share the joy that emanates from the +satisfaction of living in a country as nearly perfect as any that +earth has to offer.</p> + +<p>In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that +might appeal to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, +it is provided with all things for ministering both to man's +physical needs and to his innermost longings. All forces have contributed +towards its glory. More careful preparation was never +made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains that +reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their +innumerable streams and waterfalls; valleys and plateaus that +spring into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman; +forests of big trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect; +the greatest of oceans to temper with its breezes; inland seas +and azure lakes to embellish and attract—such are a few of the +elements that make the State of Washington and provide beauteous +homes for its people.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 341px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p006.jpg" width="341" height="600" alt="SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)—"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)—"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST."<br />Copyright by Romans Photo Co.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your +youthful impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to +reign? You can find it here—a place where wonderful pictures, +real and far grander than the famous paintings of your favorite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +artist, are constantly visible from your kitchen window or from +your work shop—and they need no expensive frames to enhance +their loveliness and no dusting to prevent their obscurity.</p> + +<p>What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the +brave mountaineers who must yearly draw near the Almighty, +and dare the elements by treading dangerous yet entrancing +trails to heights where the world appears at your feet? +Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to accommodate +yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic +highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you +regard yourself a mighty hunter and desire so to convince +your friends? Or would you be content to angle for the finny +denizens of the deep with a certainty that you will not in turn +be tantalized?</p> + +<p>The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for +all these. Its mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not excelled +by the +most boasted +scenes of +Switzerland.</p> + + +<p>Almost the +year round the +waters of +Puget Sound +and the harbors +of the +southwest invite +the small +craft. Nearly +50,000 miles +of scenic +highway, passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for +your automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and +hoofed, will lure you through many a jungle of delicate fern and +sweet scented bramble; while countless streams and lakes teem +with fish of many species.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p007.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p007-big.jpg">MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, +cozy camping sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regattas,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +midwinter fairs, roses at Christmas, golf the year round on +turf that's always green—these are a few of the charms that are +as common in the state of Washington as sands in the Sahara, +or ice at the Poles.</p> + +<p>If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy +that exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's +breast, becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firmament +are beheld, then by all means visit this the "Evergreen +State" and drink in the glories which no book, howe'er so well +written, and no picture, whoe'er the artist, can portray with any +degree of fullness or accuracy.</p> + +<p>Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. +At one moment you may be jostled along the streets of some +metropolitan center among people of many nationalities and +within a mere hour or so be wafted to a sequestered spot of transcendent +beauty, where no voice but your own is echoed by the +hills and where the existence of any other human being to share +this planet can be completely forgotten.</p> + +<p>It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are +planned: mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out; lands +are reclaimed from the deep; orchards fill its valleys; wheat +plateaus extend for miles; salmon traps line the shores; its +lumber supplies the world; its ships sail all the seas; monstrous +bridges cross the waterways; buildings vie with the highest anywhere +constructed; its schools rank first in the Union; its men +contribute to the world's greatness; its women vote and rear +capable families; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, +originality, enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes +of the western spirit, are evident throughout the state.</p> + +<p>Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 +to over 1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been converted +into gardens, villages have developed into towns, while +towns have grown into cities, taking their places among the +leading marts of the world. From a frontier state it has come +to be one of the greatest and most important in the Union, adding +to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that has yet appeared +on the horizon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="chelan" id="chelan"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p008.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN THE WEST" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN THE WEST<br /><i>"Pride of the waters of the world"</i></span> +<div class='attrib'>Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</div></div> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p009.png" width="500" height="249" alt="OUR MOUNTAINS" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye +of a visitor upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists +of the mountain ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, +forming, as it were, ladders reaching from the green vales of +earth to the blue vaults of heaven. Silhouetted against the sky +in the hazy distance, they are noted by the westward bound traveler +as soon as he reaches the highest point in the divide of the +Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way eastward upon +the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the nearness of +the welcome land.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 366px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p010.jpg" width="366" height="600" alt="MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p010-big.jpg">MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM.</a></span> +</div> +<p>These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, +both for their scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence +they exert on the climate and on the lives of the people who +build their homes in the valleys below. Their supremacy is reflected +by the thermometer, the barometer, and the aerometer; +for they help regulate the temperature, the rainfall, and the +wind's velocity. They form great repositories for the waters +that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. Within +their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious +and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their +lower zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of +Washington's big timber, while the alpine meadows above secure +for the timid deer and ptarmigan asylums of temporary +freedom from too frequent disturbance by prowling huntsmen. +Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, reserved for the +wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields traversed by +the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. Everywhere +the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +prowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking +mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to +reach some dizzy height.</p> + + + +<p>Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innumerable +lakes, beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady +shores is many a sequestered spot, most tempting to the camper +who loves the mountain region; and many a brook goes trickling +over its stony course to join the rivers below, pausing here and +there in some shady dell to create a deep pool for luring the fisherman, +or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as a waterfall +of wonderful magnitude and magnificence.</p> + +<p>The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They +remind us perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth +their fiery refuse, or of the era when the sea covered most of +what is now land. Indestructible they stand and their rocky +heights are in places insurmountable. The works of man trespass +everywhere else, but these huge pillars of the ages rise in their +majestic splendor and with sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus +far and no further! We will preserve and guard your water +and fuel supply. We will protect you from the furies of the +elements and produce materials for building your palaces. We +will create charming nooks where you may camp under the +clear sky, and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. +We will fill the brooks with swift darting fish; carpet the +meadows with myriads of flowers, ferns, and shrubs; and paint +you pictures undreamt of by men who have scorned our +acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads whereby your +Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, but +not one of our number shall be moved nor its form be changed +in the least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty +will we were brought into existence."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p012.jpg" width="600" height="341" alt="LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p012-big.jpg">LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.</a><br />Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</span> +</div> + +<p>Each mountain range possesses its own distinct characteristics. +Of least importance, but none the less beautiful, are +the Blue Mountains in the southeastern corner of the state, +providing pleasant summer retreats for the people in that +vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the Olympic +Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands +lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +In this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, +presenting some of the wildest and most inspiring scenery anywhere +to be found.</p> + +<p>Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography +of the state are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from +5,000 to 8,000 feet and named for the many hurrying streams +that have cut their deep courses upon the shady slopes. They +extend from the British Columbia line slightly southwest until +divided by the Columbia river, whence they continue through +Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By them +the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct +parts, known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former +comprising a portion of the great Inland Empire. Forming a +sort of spur on their east side, north of the Columbia, and extending +to the mountains of Idaho are the beautiful rolling hills +known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to 6,000 feet in +altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on their +higher surfaces forests of pine.</p> + +<p>Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks +tower above the others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest +by far is Mount Rainier (or Mount Tacoma), second highest +mountain in the United States proper, 14,408 feet in altitude +and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and Tacoma; +Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania +and Yakima counties; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at +the western edge of Skamania county, reached from Castle +Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, 10,730 feet, forty miles +from Bellingham and one of its main attractions; Mount +Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier Peak, +10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet +is the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that +elevation. Fifty-seven have already been named and measured.</p> + +<p>All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount +Olympus in the Olympics, constitute the main goals of the mountain +loving clubs of the northwest. Mountain phenomena are displayed +in all with a maximum degree of grandeur, insuring ample +reward to those venturing to explore their many fastnesses.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p014.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK—PRINCIPAL TREES IN WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK—PRINCIPAL TREES IN WASHINGTON.<br />Photo by C. H. Ziddell.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p015.png" width="500" height="239" alt="WASHINGTON FORESTS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and +mountains of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions +were originally left bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a +spirit of independence seem to have pushed their bald heads +up and above this beautiful covering protecting the regions below. +Into the fertile valleys and along the river banks clear to +the sea the stately ranks of these forests once advanced, but +such localities are now, for the most part, given over to the +cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transformation +are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the +peaceful pursuits of agriculture; for the broad Columbia plain +was the only part of the state dedicated from the first to the sole +task of producing food supplies rather than fuel and building +material.</p> + +<p>About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up +in eleven national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, +or to insure permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen +in her full pristine glory—Conservation! Nearly six million +acres more are under private ownership. Investigation reveals +evidences that their birth occurred very many years ago, possibly +five hundred or even six hundred years; for that many rings +have been counted on some of the largest trees. The foliage +appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it +first mingled with the landscape—hence the name "Evergreen +State."</p> + +<p>The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scenery +of the state of Washington can be best realized by climbing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +to one of the heights overlooking the timber line. From here +one can readily see how perfectly it hides every blemish of the +irregular contour, blending beautifully with the blue waters in +the distance and the pale clouds floating above. Thousands of +greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light yellowish +tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of +bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p016.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Photo by Curtis & Miller</i></div> +<span class="caption">ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS<br />"<i>O'erhung with wild woods, thickening green</i>"</span> +</div> + +<p>Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its +midst, breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and +cedars, it is easy to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in +size, form, color, and variety, for</p> + +<div class='poem'> +"No tree in all the grove but has its charms,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Though each its hue peculiar."</span><br /> +</div> + +<div class='unindent'>One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest +forests of the temperate zone; while standing proudly on every +side are individual giants, which for size can be duplicated nowhere +else in the world, excepting by occasional specimens of +the famous Red Woods of California.</div> + +<p>These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and +thoroughly worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to +mar their fame in spite of the ages through which they have lived. +Most prominent is the Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseudotsuga +taxifolia), the giant of the forest, growing erect as a +plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown two hundred feet +or more above the ground. This is the most important tree of +the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past ten +years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in +the United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous +proportions of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a +single one producing material sufficient to build a palace of huge +dimensions.</p> + + + + +<p>Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching sometimes +a height of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases +of over 20 feet; yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds +of all the shingles produced in the United States. Similar to +the Cypress, its sweet soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous +and always pleasing. Other trees which provide lumber and add +grace to the Washington woods are the hemlocks, spruces,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +larches, and white firs, in the western part of the state; and the +pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern counties.</p> + +<p>Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled +throughout the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the +artistic design. There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked +madronas; the pale barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, +the bitter tasting willows; the white flowered dogwood, +prominent throughout the forests until late in the spring, and +occasionally found blooming in the fall; the gray barked alder +protecting the springs and mountain streams; the sturdy oaks, +skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and the +hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. +Many of these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find +nothing more suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city +parks and boulevards.</p> + +<p>Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to +have been destined especially to yield food for the natural +wanderers of the forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be +wanted in the state of Washington. There is probably no other +section of the world where wild berries grow in greater profusion. +Very prominent is the wild cherry, the wild apple, the +salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, the salal berry, +the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the wild +currant, and the raspberry.</p> + +<p>Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek +with nature lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for +which this section of the world is noted, is many a modest flower +which in some sections blooms nearly the whole year round, so +soft is the climate; while the pink petaled rhododendron, of +bolder nature, Washington's state flower, is prominent in June +tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and lining the +course of many a pretty driveway.</p> + +<p>Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with +its sweetness, may be heard the music of some rippling stream +winding its happy way down the mountain side and playing, as +it were, an accompaniment to the duets of soul mated song birds +unable to restrain their songs of joy. If this is a wilderness +then a wilderness is a paradise on earth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 347px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p018.jpg" width="347" height="600" alt="ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p018-big.jpg">ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p019.jpg" width="500" height="250" alt="THE CLIMATE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip +are always interested in the climate of the locality attracting +their attention, for they know that absolute contentment in any +clime, even for a brief period, is impossible without a friendly +attitude on the part of the elements. So many regions seem to +have been permanently blighted by conditions opposed to human +happiness, or at least to have been forgotten in certain important +essentials when Nature was passing round her favors.</p> + +<p>The state of Washington, however, received a full share +of climatic blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes +either of heat or cold its climate is as temperate as that +of southern England—a most remarkable fact when one realizes +that its latitude is higher than that of the state of Maine +and its northern boundary line corresponds to that of North +Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by +the protecting mountains and their dense forests together with +the breezes blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the +mysterious Japan Current.</p> + +<p>So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the +mountainous regions, that the same weight of clothing is by +many found sufficient the year round. In every section there is +a long growing season and only a short mild winter, known on +the west side as the "rainy season." There is never danger +from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are deflected to +the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green foliage +the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture +available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle +may be turned loose almost any day in the year and the farmer +is saved the necessity of spending all his summer's profits in +order that his livestock will not starve during a long cold period. +The lowest monthly normal temperature, as deduced from a +period of years, is for Seattle, 39°; Spokane, 27°; and Walla +Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal temperatures of +the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10°; St. Paul, +12°; Des Moines, 20°; and Chicago, 24°.</p> + +<p>The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally +stirring. There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest +parts the dryness of the atmosphere favors evaporation. The +nights are everywhere cool. When millions in other climes are +rolling about in their torturous beds, struggling for the relief +that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian doffs his +clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, and +is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the +morning refreshed and ready for life's battle.</p> + +<div class='center'> +MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON<br />CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES.<br /></div> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Summer temperatures"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center'><i>June</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>July</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Aug.</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Sep.</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Sum'r</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound District</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>62</td><td align='center'>61</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>59</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle</td><td align='center'>60</td><td align='center'>64</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>58</td><td align='center'>61</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma</td><td align='center'>58</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>60</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>69</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>59</td><td align='center'>65</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chicago</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>71</td><td align='center'>64</td><td align='center'>68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New York City</td><td align='center'>69</td><td align='center'>74</td><td align='center'>73</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>70</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boston</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>70</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington, D. C.</td><td align='center'>73</td><td align='center'>77</td><td align='center'>75</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>73</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Philadelphia</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>76</td><td align='center'>74</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>72</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, +such as discomforts the people in eastern cities during +those months and causes so many disappointments; for 80 per +cent of our precipitation occurs between October 15th and +May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and sunrise, so +that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred.</p> + +<p>The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes +while the valleys, where the people make their homes, have no +more than enough to produce a vigorous plant growth. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +average for the year on Puget Sound is about the same as in +Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New York or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation +in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that +of California.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 341px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p021.jpg" width="341" height="600" alt="SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p021-big.jpg">SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, +according to the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 +inches; Spokane, 18.8 inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, +33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 +inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, 43.3 inches; Los Angeles, +15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches.</p> + +<div class='center'> +MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES.<br /></div> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Rainfall"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> <i>June</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>July</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Aug.</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Sep.</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Sum'r</i> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound District </td><td align='left'>1.59</td><td align='left'>0.67</td><td align='left'>0.74</td><td align='left'>2.01</td><td align='left'>5.01</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle</td><td align='left'>1.41</td><td align='left'>0.61</td><td align='left'>0.46</td><td align='left'>1.98</td><td align='left'>4.46</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma</td><td align='left'>1.97</td><td align='left'>0.69</td><td align='left'>0.66</td><td align='left'>2.79</td><td align='left'>5.91</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane</td><td align='left'>1.61</td><td align='left'>0.67</td><td align='left'>0.48</td><td align='left'>1.01</td><td align='left'>3.8</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Walla Walla</td><td align='left'>1.2</td><td align='left'>0.4</td><td align='left'>0.4</td><td align='left'>0.9</td><td align='left'>2.9</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chicago</td><td align='left'>3.52</td><td align='left'>3.62</td><td align='left'>3.02</td><td align='left'>3.06</td><td align='left'>13.22</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New York City</td><td align='left'>3.41</td><td align='left'>4.08</td><td align='left'>4.38</td><td align='left'>3.44</td><td align='left'>15.31</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boston</td><td align='left'>3.14</td><td align='left'>3.51</td><td align='left'>4.15</td><td align='left'>3.44</td><td align='left'>14.24</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington, D. C.</td><td align='left'>3.74</td><td align='left'>4.34</td><td align='left'>4.98</td><td align='left'>3.25</td><td align='left'>16.31</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Philadelphia</td><td align='left'>3.27</td><td align='left'>4.14</td><td align='left'>4.69</td><td align='left'>3.36</td><td align='left'>17.46</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation +also offer protection against the extraordinary meteorological +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'occurences'">occurrences</ins> that so often terrorize the people in more +exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau has no authentic record +of a real tornado anywhere in the state of Washington" says +G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. S. +Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. +Loss of life never occurs from any of these causes. +The atmosphere is always pure and salubrious and the death +rate is lowest of all states in the Union, while its two largest +cities have the lowest death rate of all cities in the United States, +having a population of 100,000 or over.</p> + +<p>After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend +a season where no dreary winters will engender melancholy +while waiting for a lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat +will threaten prostration. Come to a state that is as free as +possible from the ills of unfriendly phenomena, and where one +beautiful day passes into the next as a pleasant dream shades +into the sweetest realities of life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p023.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p023-big.jpg">YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND.</a></span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p024.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="SCENES AT BREMERTON—ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL STATIONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p024-big.jpg">SCENES AT BREMERTON—ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL STATIONS.</a></span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Puget_sound" id="Puget_sound"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p025.png" width="500" height="236" alt="PUGET SOUND" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great +inland sea known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of +Juan de Fuca far into the interior of the state of Washington. +If the Strait mentioned, together with Hood Canal and a portion +of the Strait of Georgia are included, and they will be in +this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of mirror like surface are +encompassed within the green wooded shore lines of as many +lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every +direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, +at other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, +and again the modern cities located upon the shores.</p> + +<p>Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles +beckoning with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas +shelter hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing +shore line the "tide lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and +supply a sort of neutral ground, enjoyed now by the clam +diggers or oyster culturists and again claimed by the enveloping +waters.</p> + +<p>Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile +lands, which have been released from their forest burdens, are +now devoted to the pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally +to feed the multitudes dwelling in the neighboring large cities. +Here and there patches of virgin growth in primeval splendor +may still be seen, but usually, excepting in the Hood Canal +region, the forests have been forced back to the foot hills, leaving +in their wake the so-called logged-off areas which are in turn +rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further back<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable +streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, +transect the lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous +regions out into the salts of the deep.</p> + +<p>Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out +of the water, and command the view for miles in every +direction. Pictures are everywhere presented which reproduced +on canvass would insure the immortality of any artist. +Altogether the region presents the likeness of one vast kingly +garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured and all +wonders combine to enchant the visitor.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p026.jpg" width="400" height="277" alt="SUMMER TIME PLEASURES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SUMMER TIME PLEASURES.</span> +</div> + +<p>This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable +bulwarks of mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but +is at the very door of the people and enjoyed by them while +going about +their daily +tasks. Nearly a +million human +beings look out +upon its placid +waters and rejoice +at their +good fortune +in being permitted +to play, +as it were, upon +its banks, +and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering breezes +that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a +haven in winter—and there is room for ten times as many to +make their homes where these same joys may be experienced.</p> + +<p>Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period +required for the most extravagant display of human skill, was +this great pleasure resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, +between the rising of the waters that "drowned" the rivers once +flowing where now the Sound reposes and the advent of the +glaciers which deposited the fertile sediment to nourish the +luxuriant growth appearing on every hand.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p027.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR YARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p027-big.jpg">TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR YARD.</a><br />Photo by Avery and Potter.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p028.jpg" width="354" height="600" alt="VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p028-big.jpg">VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING.</div> + +<p>One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing +a bit of rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here +safe from the storms that pound sometimes against the outer +coast line; for its waters compose one great harbor, protected +by the forests and mountains. One may see "Uncle Sam's" +powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming toward +Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest +dry dock owned by the U. S. Government is located.</p> + +<p>But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels +alone. It could not have been improved if created especially for +the yacht, the motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome +canoe. Upon its surface is held many a local speed contest, +and the annual power boat race is run from Ketchikan, +Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are ideal for the college +regatta and for the difficult feats of the hydroplane. During +festive days many important events are pulled off, while the +happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along +the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above.</p> + +<p>For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages—never +threatened by tempests and always within reach of some +of nature's most glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable +for camps are easily found, from which short inland excursions +may be made through alpine meadows by winding trails to the +summit of some mountain or to the shores of some peaceful lake.</p> +<p>Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft +are not necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular +passenger steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance +make regular trips throughout the year from every city on +its shores to nearly every other part of the Sound; while special +summer time excursions are made from the metropolitan centers +to all the principal points of interest on Puget Sound and +to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska.</p> + + + +<div class='center'><br />HOOD CANAL.</div> + +<p>The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains +are in the narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending +southwesterly and bending back into the heart of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists riding over these waters for the +first time are elated with the splendors, and the frequent visitor +never tires of the inspiring scenes that everywhere greet the +eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms and settlements +in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge +is at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated +ridges are continually visible from the deck of a passing +steamer. Easily distinguishable also are the deep canyons +cut by the several main streams working their way towards +the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs and creating falls +of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the Dusewallips, +the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are +some of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails +are familiar to those making frequent pilgrimages thither.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p030.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE—ELLIOTT BAY AND THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p030-big.jpg">A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE—ELLIOTT BAY AND THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + +<p>Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain +summer resort reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish +valley containing the Indian reservation of the same name. At +Union City one may take the stage over a well traveled road +through groves and vales to Shelton, county seat of Mason +county, where regular steamers connect with all Puget Sound +points—thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OTHER TRIPS.</div> + +<p>Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main +traveled waters of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia +and Shelton, to Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, +Port Townsend, and Port Angeles; also out to the ocean or +through the San Juan Islands to Victoria and Vancouver in +British Columbia. The mountains are always in sight although +not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a continual +procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, gardens, +orchards, green meadows, and summer homes.</p> + +<p>Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a +myriad shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the +hovering clouds, which assume various grotesque shapes above +the shimmering waters; and even at night time when threading +the channel marked by the twinkling beacon lights, or entering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +the harbor of a city resplendent with thousands of glittering incandescents.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p032.jpg" width="600" height="385" alt="A PUGET SOUND SUNSET" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Photo by Webster & Stevens</i></div><a href="images/illo_facing_p032-big.jpg"><span class="caption">A PUGET SOUND SUNSET</span></a> +<div class='poem'>"<i>When Sol in joy is seen to leave</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>The earth with crimson beam.</i>"</span><br /> +</div></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />COMMERCE.</div> + +<p>Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many +that suggest the state's commercial importance, for these waters +produce many million dollars worth of fish each year, and the +neighboring shores have the largest saw mills in the world, supplying +a big share of the 4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is +Washington's annual contribution and insures her first place in +the Union. Out from Bellingham and Anacortes may be observed +the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being raised, with sometimes +50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their meshes, soon +to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and shipped +to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are +seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes +of manufactured products which for the entire state approaches +the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'stupenduous'">stupendous</ins> sum of $300,000,000 yearly.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE EAST SHORES.</div> + +<p>The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east +shores, where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with +farms and gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade +Mountains, comprising five of the most densely populated counties +in the state. Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest +cities, Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center +of a rich territory supporting numerous smaller cities. At the +southern limit is Olympia, the state capital.</p> + +<p>Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, +vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which +go to support those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship +building, mining, and other manufacturing industries, and the +diversified business pursuits.</p> + +<p>Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost +unbroken string of electric railways render good local service, +while excellent roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross +the section and unite the people with indestructible bonds of +friendship and mutual interests.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> + +<p>A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other +parts of the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, +one of the grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, +forming the eastern boundary to Seattle, providing sites +for country homes and parks, and embellishing its boulevard +system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of similar importance +to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a number +of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE ISLANDS.</div> + +<p>Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the +many enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to +Blaine and within easy reach of the cities located upon its +shores. Some are hidden within partially concealed bays and +others appear like portions of the mainland until circumnavigation +has proved their seclusion. Although a few have sufficient +area and commercial importance to form entire counties, +the larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are +tiny gems suitable only for private resorts away from the busy +cities. Nearly all are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled +with flowers and ferns, and girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting +the real charms of camp life.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />SAN JUAN GROUP.</div> + +<p>Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful +than the San Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits +of Georgia, rivaling as they do the Thousand Isles of the St. +Lawrence or the classical Grecian Archipelago. There are +172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting their own +peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and shown +only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas +and Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are +Lummi, Guemes, and Cypress, similar in formation and of like +attractiveness. They are approachable with almost any kind of +craft, no great distances separate them, and often there is just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +passage for a steamer. They offer rare opportunity for playing +hide and seek on the water, a game which in days gone by men<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the international +boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of +safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 344px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p034.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p034-big.jpg">AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS.</a><br />Photos by J. A. McCormick.</span> +</div> + +<p>And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! +Had it not been for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in +1871, the Union Jack instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes +might today be floating over them. The two distinct camps +on San Juan Island where the British "Red Coats" and +the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, +are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche +Harbor, and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat.</p> + +<p>The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, +Bellingham or Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns +including Friday Harbor, where the University Marine Station +and two large salmon canneries are located; Roche Harbor, +where one of the largest lime kilns is prospering; and Deer Harbor, +West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and Doebay, attractive +as summer resorts.</p> + +<p>Many people spend their summers among these isles. The +tourist with limited time should, besides visiting the historic +sites on San Juan, make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas +Island. Two good wagon roads lead all the way to the top, the +one from East Sound and the other from Olga. A pleasant day's +outing is enjoyed by going up one way and returning by the +other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared with the +peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more comprehensive +outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the +"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the +beautiful country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired +Seattle ship builder, who has harnessed the water power from the +lakes lying a few hundred feet above and equipped a modern +mansion with all that man can desire or money and art can supply. +Who would guess that a great pipe organ might be heard +in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, bursting out in +unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of the great +composers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />WHIDBY ISLAND.</div> + +<p>Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohomish +counties, midway in the Sound where the views of the Cascades +and the Olympics are unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the +second largest island in the United States proper and sometimes +called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." With Camano Island +on the east and two other very small ones it constitutes an +independent county. Having much water front and its western +shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are +felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no +mountains to climb, although a number of eminences offer views +of the distant landscape.</p> + +<p>The largest improvement has been near the southern extremity +and between Coupeville and the northern limits, where the +world's record for wheat production per acre was made. A +beautiful road decorated with rhododendrons leads from Fort +Casey to Deception Pass separating it from Fidalgo Island on +the north, which is connected with the mainland by a first class +highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer Chautauquas +are held and many campers congregate.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OTHER ISLANDS.</div> + +<p>A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, having +forty miles of water front lined with summer homes or suitable +for camping sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma +are Vashon and Maury Islands, practically one, comprising some +twenty-three thousand acres, which yield for these cities berries, +fruits, vegetables, and flowers, and offer some of the most delightful +sites for homes along their fifty miles of attractive shore +line.</p> + +<p>Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of +the Bay Island country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and +offering unlimited opportunities for campers who are always +welcomed by the hospitable ranchers. Hartstine Island maintains +one of the largest vineyards in the west, yielding delicious +grapes which find their way to distant eastern markets. Numerous +smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and insure +pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 345px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p037.jpg" width="345" height="600" alt="WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS." title="" /> +<a href="images/illo_p037-big.jpg"><span class="caption">WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS.</span></a> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OLYMPIC PENINSULA.</div> + +<p>Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and extending +from the Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the +Chehalis river valley is the vast Olympic Peninsula, whose resources +and wonders are probably less known than almost any +other section of the world. The central portion constitutes one +great forest reserve within which is the Olympic National Monument +set apart by the government for the enjoyment of nature +lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns +situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monument +contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, +the most turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state.</p> + +<p>The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automobile. +Highways lead well up into the foothills from the cities +of Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, +Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal points, and passable +trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It is easy to +surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the approach +of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous +colors which make the region famous for its beauty.</p> + +<p>It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of +choicest timber remain uncut; valuable ore veins and a vast lake +of petroleum are buried within its depths; land well suited for +agriculture girdles the entire peninsula; and the neighboring +waters yield liberal quantities of fish.</p> + +<p>Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supplemented +with the conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. +Among these are Sol Duc Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol +Duc river, where a little palace has been lifted into the mountains, +Government Hot Springs, and Lake Crescent, all reached +from Port Angeles; Lake Cushman, approached from Hoodsport; +and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to +any of these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy +the most extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p039.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="HARBOR_COUNTRY" id="HARBOR_COUNTRY"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p040.png" width="500" height="238" alt="THE HARBOR COUNTRY" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the +"Harbor Country," the only part of the state where almost +simultaneously one may enjoy the rare combination of the unobstructed +ocean, an inland sea, and trout streams lined with +giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon the dominions +of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab seemingly +try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding +splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to +the remarkable competition.</p> + +<p>Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this section, +at least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon +another variety of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and +experience again the pleasure of riding through a valley that +appeals alike to the Pullman passenger and to the automobilist; +for it is human nature to love a change, even if one's home environment +approaches perfection itself.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p041.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY.<br />Copyright by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> +<p>There are two important salt water harbors in southwest +Washington, the more northerly one in Chehalis county, and +named Grays Harbor after the great explorer who discovered +it in 1792, and the southern one in Pacific county bearing an +Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated by only a +few miles of territory, which is served by no railroad other than +a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by Centralia, +excepting that during the summer months auto stages +traverse the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland; for the beach +here is level and broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the +tide has receded, that it is used as a highway, and even as a race +track for automobiles and motorcycles. This is true not only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +of the portion lying between the two harbors but also of the +twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" extending from +Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia.</p> + +<p>The entire region is fraught with charms that can be duplicated +nowhere else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are +patronized especially by people from the Sound cities and from +southwest Washington. North Beach to the south of Willapa +Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and other Oregon +cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are numerous, +when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity +of visiting the seashore.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 355px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p042.jpg" width="355" height="204" alt="POINT GRENVILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">POINT GRENVILLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bathing +in the surf or burrowing in the warm sands; hunting for +shells, agates, and +Indian relics; rowing, +and trolling for +salmon; or searching +for the rare floral +specimens abounding +in the neighboring +woods occupy the +time of many. +Others enjoy visiting +the canneries, observing the motor races, or watching the +sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into the +harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by +some fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam +bakes and, at the end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach +parties and the story telling, after which one is lulled into sweet +slumber by the unceasing roar of the ocean surf.</p> + +<p>So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach +will undoubtedly in time be ornate with one continuous array +of summer resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the +mouth of the Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the +Straits, and interrupted only by the narrow gaps marking the +entrances to the two harbors. Every manner of dwelling is +provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. Cottages<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one +of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />GRAYS HARBOR.</div> + +<p>To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the +ocean, means a trip through the wide fertile valley of the Chehalis +river, either by auto or over one of the three transcontinental +railroads that serve it. The entire journey presents a +panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream itself is conspicuous, +tracing the valley's boundary on one side and again on +the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the sea. +Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still +marked by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its +banks, and again by some rustic bridge where the highway +crosses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p043.jpg" width="500" height="185" alt="SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR.</span> +</div> + +<p>More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens +and the harbor is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including +Oakville, noted for large shipments of cascara bark; Elma, an +industrial center; and Montesano, the county seat and head of +river navigation. Green meadows, wooded slopes, and cultivated +farms on both sides of the river absorb the attention until +Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, are +reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth +within the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have +now a combined population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the +census returns of 1900. Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain +the homes of some of the wealthiest men in the state.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p044.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + +<p>Such development has been due largely to the importance +of the lumber industry which in this section of the state has +assumed large proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious +yards, and the huge vessels loading for foreign ports are common +sights within the cities. Farther away in the logging +camps the agility of the lumberjack is exhibited as he lays low +the giants of the forest and trims the logs ready for the mills.</p> + +<p>The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking +a ride upon its waters. Regular steamers make the round trip +each day, stopping at many points of interest, both in the north +and the south bay, including the North Jetty under construction +by the United States government, Westport, where the +life saving station and the wireless telegraph station are located, +and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations in the northwest. +On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be +seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and +visit Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes +that engage the evenings of the summer dwellers.</p> + +<p>Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts +near the terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits; +while those desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable +excursions into the wild Olympic region, exploring the forested +hills, visiting the oil prospects, or hunting and fishing.</p> + +<p>Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis +county alone are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which +passes near interesting scenes. One road extends to the south +of the harbor and another to the beach resorts at the north. +The Olympic Highway, one of the state primary highways, +leads east to the Sound country, and northward up the Humptulips +Valley, through the big timber to Lake Quiniault, located +in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the Quiniault Indian +Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the people +living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should +plan their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault +River in Indian canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this +way from Mount Olympus in 1913, pronounced it the best part +of the entire outing:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties +and experiences beggars description—the swift current, the +whirling eddies, the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into +the air to catch the flying insects, the banks clothed with magnificent +forests, log jams through which or under which we +passed, animated branches marking the rhythmic motion of the +current, the floating canoes gliding into the deeper, darker +water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever on to +the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through +the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next +test of skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating +bits of history or legends which explained names or some natural +phenomenon. The boom of the surf announced the end of the +journey. As the Mountaineers left the canoes on the beach at +Taholah, it was agreed that the trip down the Quiniault marked +the red-letter day of the 1913 outing."</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />WILLAPA BAY.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 195px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p046.jpg" width="195" height="250" alt="TWO PATRIARCHS—ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p046-big.jpg">TWO PATRIARCHS—ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, composed +of two sections, one extending southward and separated +from the ocean by a long narrow +peninsula, nowhere more +than two miles in width, and +the other reaching eastward +to South Bend and Raymond. +Into it flows Willapa river, +besides other short but swift +mountain streams teeming +with trout and other game +fish. The bar is about a mile +wide and the waters covering +it 28-1/2 feet deep at low tide, +thus enabling sea-going vessels +to cross without the aid +of tugs—a great advantage +to ocean liners and big lumber +schooners, which may be +seen almost any day either lying at the docks or loaded to the +gunwale passing out to sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + +<p>The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Columbia +River. People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +plans to dig a canal through this narrow strip so that vessels +may enter the river by way of Willapa Bay and avoid the Columbia +bar, kept open by jetties built at enormous expense.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p047.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST<br />Photo by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> + +<p>The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples +of what lumbering and fishing have done for Washington municipalities. +Where a few years ago was nothing but a wilderness, +known only to the Indians or an occasional fisherman, are +now busy marts with extensive waterfront factory sites. Pretty +roads start from these cities and wind along the harbor front +or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made +to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing stations. +Crab and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen +here to advantage, Tokeland being the place where eastern +oysters were first transplanted for mercantile purposes.</p> + +<p>South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the +North Beach ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view +of the bay, and the ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At +Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, all passengers are transferred +to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for Ilwaco and Megler, +whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train makes +frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive +summer cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly +visible on the right.</p> + +<p>Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula +is the quaint town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. +Near by are the most extensive cranberry marshes in the state. +Another attraction is "North Head," most southwesterly point +in the state of Washington, where an unobstructed view of the +ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen the waters of +the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in +Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, +the wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of +sea lions are usually sunning themselves.</p> + +<p>Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River +may be chosen to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be +quickly reached by the Pacific Highway or by rail. Every +tourist should make at least one visit to the Harbor Country +and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the state.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;"><a name="rainier" id="rainier"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p049.jpg" width="389" height="600" alt="MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE<br />"<i>Owning no mightier but the King of kings</i>"</span> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Curtis & Miller</i></div></div> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p049.png" width="500" height="236" alt="MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding +promontory nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a panoramic +view most wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the +sun's warm rays were unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure +as the nectar of heaven. Only five hours before I had left the +city of Tacoma and a little earlier Seattle—two great cities +throbbing with the activities of nearly a half million people engaged +in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits.</p> + +<p>Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the +green valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay—the nearest +only forty miles distant by an air line, close to the waters <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'of of'">of</ins> +Puget Sound. Yet here, almost in sight of them, I was enjoying +a quietude known only to the haunts of nature. More +than seven thousand feet above me towered the majestic dome +of the second highest pinnacle in the United <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'State'">States</ins>, reserving +observation to the north until its summit should be reached, +while far toward the east and the south extended range +upon range of mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered +around their chief. Here and there among them appeared the +sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in Washington; and Hood, +Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in Oregon. Between +their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep +canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state.</p> + +<p>Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way +down the mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged +ridges. Between them and below were spread the meadowed alpine +parks or abandoned cirques—veritable fairylands—which +had been carved out by these superhuman agencies eons before.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +Barely distinguishable was the road by which I had made +the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across the face +of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams +glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the +profound hollows formed by the extending hills.</p> + +<p>The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of themselves +worth the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen +to Ashford where each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving +Tacoma, the highway threads a picturesque gravelly prairie +for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful canyon road, crosses the +Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the Nisqually Canyon a +thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin forests, +reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually +Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be +continued afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage.</p> + +<p>This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. +Perhaps no other area in the world brings so many and such +varied natural wonders to the very doors of two great cities. +It contains a total of 207,360 acres, or 324 square miles, of +which 100 square miles is occupied by Mount Rainier (or Mt. +Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently directly from +sea level, and visible from almost every point in the state.</p> + +<p>No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists +than this mighty pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial +area, no less than 45 square miles in extent, exceeds that of any +other peak in the United States. One of the most interesting +glaciers is Carbon on the north slope, reaching down to a +lower elevation than any other; the most readily reached +is the Nisqually, five miles in length; and the largest is the +White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, +Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, +North and South Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important +secondary glaciers are Van Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Paradise, +and Interglacier.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 344px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p051.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p051-big.jpg">IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The summit may be reached by five different routes. These +are the Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, +Ptarmigan Ridge, and Emmon's or the White Glacier route.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +The Paradise Valley (known also as the "Gibraltar") route, on +the south side, is by far the most popular, for it is well provided +with hotel accommodations, and both the government road and +Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the Clouds, at the +mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village at midnight, +arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about +5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the mountain, +at about 11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see +more than a hundred miles in every direction, far away to the +ocean on the west and into the great Inland Empire on the east. +The snow-capped peaks already noted are seen toward the +south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, Shuksan, +Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north; while the Mother, the +Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range +near by seem like mere foothills, between eight and nine thousand +feet below. No grander or more inspiring view may be +observed anywhere in the world.</p> + +<p>Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a +few, and always with the aid of an experienced guide. The +largest measure of real joy is found in the alpine "parks." The +best known and most frequented is along the Paradise River. +Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, are Indian +Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others +requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest +and most beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews +and Grand Parks.</p> + +<p>Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural +amphitheaters present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any underbrush +exists in them but many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and +trees abound; three hundred distinct plants are said to exist; +pretty lakelets gem their surface; and all are drained by +trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing waterfalls +of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting +glaciers to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, +lead to every point of interest and extend clear around the +mountain. Camping places are plentiful or accommodations +may be obtained at comfortable hotels.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p053.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="MOUNT RAINIER—LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p053-big.jpg">MOUNT RAINIER—LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p054.png" width="500" height="241" alt="THE COLUMBIA RIVER" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>This wonderful and majestic river whose history is enhanced +with legend, offers the exploring tourist or curious sight-seer +unusual opportunities to indulge his unbounded imagination +and to satisfy his desire for the spectacular in nature. +Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest importance in +northwest history, while interwoven with the incontrovertible +happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. Overlooking +its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific northwest, +upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its +persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous +cities of the country.</p> + +<p>One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with +many important tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five +times the area of the state of Washington. By a series of +cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold turns, it flows nearly 1,400 +miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, before finally delivering +the waters gathered from many sources to the great Pacific +ocean.</p> + +<p>Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast +expenditures to increase its value as a navigable stream. Near +Stevenson the government has built locks at a cost of several +million dollars, enabling large vessels to reach The Dalles, at +present the head of navigation. At Celilo, two hundred miles +from its mouth, where, in twelve miles distance, the river falls +eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are being constructed. +When these are completed, merchant vessels can go direct from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four hundred +miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in +places by rapids and falls.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p055.jpg" width="400" height="95" alt="INDIAN CANOE RACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p055-big.jpg">INDIAN CANOE RACE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Important as this river is from a commercial and geographic +standpoint, the greatest interest by far centers in the +phenomena that are of its own creation, visible every mile from +its mouth to its source. A journey upon its surface rivals one +along the historic Rhine, the picturesque Hudson, or the beautiful +St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the wilder +grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the +earth and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and +describe these ever so briefly would require an entire volume. +This short chapter is a suggestion only that "By reason of +scenic grandeur, absorbing interest of physical features, the +majesty and mystery of its flow through some of the wildest as +well as some of the most beautiful regions of the globe, and at +the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the greatest +of the oceans, this 'Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike historian, +scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature."</p> + +<p>In many places the natural appearances are the same now +as when Gray, Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the Northwest +and Hudson's Bay Company men first viewed its banks, with +the exception that the shores have in places been denuded of their +largest timber and either a younger growth has inherited the +dominion or portions have been claimed for the agriculturist.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 351px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p056.jpg" width="351" height="600" alt="ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p056-big.jpg">ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> + +<p>Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, +"chugging" away from their moorings in the early dawn and +returning at the setting of the sun heavily laden with the famous +Columbia river salmon that feed thousands throughout the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which there are many +in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are conspicuous +and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the products +of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but +far from the sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the +same waters that conceal the treasures being sought.</p> + +<p>Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washington +side and in Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River +is reached, one will have passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, +Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, Stevenson, White Salmon, and +Wallula on the Washington side, besides many important cities +on the Oregon shores: namely, Astoria, the site of the first settlement +on the Columbia; Portland, the largest city in Oregon, +near the mouth of the Willamette; and The Dalles, for many +years the head of navigation. Kennewick and Pasco are located +just beyond the mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive +full benefit from the improved navigation conditions of the +future. Between these larger towns is many a tiny hamlet, +while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty dwellings +slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler +dissatisfied with his own home.</p> + +<p>At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of wonderful +basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure +of many tints. Further away a murmuring brook or crystal +streamlet may be heard hurrying down a rocky hillside or winding +between towering cliffs, adding its share to the tuneful +sound of the powerful orchestra that seems everywhere to be +heard. Constantly shifting color and shade attract the eye and +tones of varying quality please the ear.</p> + +<p>When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, +stretching toward the north, broad areas where man has mingled +his skill with Nature's works. Green fields, sometimes fringed +with willows, near the waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm +houses, and dairies, are visible as far as the eye can see. +These evidences of man's encroachments are noted all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which city, the oldest in +the state, a tourist should linger long enough to appreciate the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +region which arrested the attention of our earliest settlers and +inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A +bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it +with the beautiful city of Portland.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p058.jpg" width="350" height="600" alt="THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p058-big.jpg">THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is +ascended, until the mountainous region is reached and the roar +of the cascades is distinctly heard. These cascades, according +to Indian lore, were created by the falling of the +"Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from shore to shore +and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on +the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a +mighty river peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular +buttresses on either hand, the forest areas that +apparently fell from above, trees growing out of the water, +petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within the vicinity of Stevenson, +and many other freaks of nature all seem to strengthen +the evidence on which this story is based.</p> + +<p>Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples +of Nature's diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle +Rock, or Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 +feet high; St. Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, +considered one of the wonders of the American continent; Oneonta +Gorge, almost concealed behind towering rocks; Multnomah +Falls, a matchless waterfall with a sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape +Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster Rock, unsurpassed for +beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape Eternity, a massive +precipice 1,000 feet in height.</p> + +<p>Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates +climbing some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over +the wooded river banks and visiting the rustic towns that lie at +the foot of the mountains and guard the gateway to the alluring +valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat of Skamania county, overlooking +the cascade locks, and Carson, are several hot springs +where accommodations for the most particular are available. +From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. +forest nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +Government Hot Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for +climbing, offer expansive views of the surrounding country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p060.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p060-big.jpg">THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON.</a><br />Photo by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> + +<p>A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley +takes one to Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves +in the foothills of Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, +a pow-wow place for the Indians. On the way, hundreds of +scientifically developed orchards, and oat fields yielding over 100 +bushels to the acre, are passed; also the Northwest Electric Company's +power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse power, +supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the massive +bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending +color may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia +River and the mountains to the east and the west, while +the entire Hood River Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is +visible on the Oregon side.</p> + +<p>The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River +is a journey of surprises. The railroad follows the winding +canyon past pretty waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and +emerges finally into a wide, fertile plain overlooking the Columbia +basin. Fields of waving grain and other products exhibit +the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those desiring can motor +from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to the Columbia +via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 +road across his 6,000-acre farm.</p> + +<p>Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before +being joined by the Snake River, it has drained a region +noted for agricultural superiority and contributed liberally to +the needs of irrigation. The "Big Bend" on the left, and the +valleys watered by its tributaries from the right, are described +under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire."</p> + +<p>Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder +scenes are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, +native trees more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course +of the stream more winding. Startling phenomena appear in +rapid succession, and scenes unimagined will astonish the tourist +who spends a little time in re-exploring this great river, for +ages a prize eagerly sought by the searchers for the unknown.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p062.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p063.png" width="500" height="232" alt="THE INLAND EMPIRE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between +the Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland +sea—the waters left imprisoned when the ocean had receded. +After many ages these pent up waters burst the restraining +barriers and forced their way to the ocean, creating the deep +canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad plain, now +known as the Inland Empire.</p> + +<p>What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed +into a "Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one +of the bountiful "bread baskets of the world" while its valleys +yield generously of nearly all the products of husbandry. Near +its borders the mountains, with their retinue of trees, flowers +and grassy meadows, reach as far as the invisible power permits +and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, to wind through +and through and distribute the welcome waters that enkindle the +irrigated districts with life and activity.</p> + +<p>Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this +wonderful plain, but the brief description contemplated in these +few pages must be confined chiefly to Washington. The curious +sight-seer or the serious homeseeker can well afford to spend +many days exploring this region, marveling at both the mighty +forces of creation and the embellishments of man. Under far +more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now than when +the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. +Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus +Whitman, supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable +courage with the trusty saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner +or the rude river raft. Today the palatial cars of four trans<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>continental +lines make daily trips across the state; branch lines +accommodate the territory north and south; and parts not +reached by rail are served by well constructed thorofares.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p064.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="SUNNYSIDE CANAL—MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Asahel Curtis</i></div> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p064-big.jpg">SUNNYSIDE CANAL—MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE</a></span> +<div class='poem'>"<i>And the old wilderness is changed</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>To cultured vale and hill</i>"</span><br /> +</div></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />CHIEF FEATURES.</div> + +<p>In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important +features are the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan +region; the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the +Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville and Pend Oreille; +the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake +River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their +"coulees"; and the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low +bare ridges of a semi-mountainous character which relieve the +prairie effect and permit cycloramic views of the surrounding +territory. Among these are the Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe +Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while a number of spurs +from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, help +form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />HOW TO REACH THEM.</div> + +<p>These different sections may be easily reached from almost +any city in the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can +make a quick yet comprehensive survey of eastern Washington +in two ways. After seeing the immediate Spokane vicinity and +visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the north, either automobiles +or Great Northern trains will convey them up the Colville +Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, +whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and +down the San Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, +whence the journey may be continued to Wenatchee down +the Okanogan Valley, both by auto and rail. Side trips may be +taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake Chelan canyon, as +well as to numerous other places of interest. From Wenatchee +the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures +an interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of +the Big Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by +making a tour through the Palouse to the Snake River and +Walla Walla country. Transportation leads from there direct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +to the Columbia River, and the Yakima and Kittitas valleys. +The Horse Heaven may be reached from Kennewick and Pasco, +or from Prosser.</p> + + +<p>The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the +Palouse, Snake River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas +valleys, from Ellensburg a scenic overland route may be taken +direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop may be made to include +Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big Bend and +the Spokane Country.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE YAKIMA VALLEY.</div> + +<p>Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich +territory tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes +Keechelus and Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the +Columbia—a total distance of nearly 175 miles with a range of +altitude, at the water's edge, varying from 2,250 down to 340 +feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima Valley proper, the Kittitas +and a number of minor valleys, including the Naches, the +Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and +the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just +south of "Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are +located, two enterprising cities, vieing for supremacy over the +rich south half of Yakima county. Further south is Prosser, +county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is North Yakima +with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region +and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, +is Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima +county constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima +Tribes dwell peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the +soil and occasionally entertaining the people with many a +"Round Up," or Wild West Show. At Fort Simcoe is their +school, deserving of a visit from anyone interested.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p066.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="THE YAKIMA VALLEY—MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p066-big.jpg">THE YAKIMA VALLEY—MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and +bunch grass, is irrigable land enough to support a population +of a million people; for the total water capacity as surveyed by +the United States Government is estimated at 927,000 acre +feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. Less than a third of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +is at present cultivated and watered from small canals, built by +private capital, and from the two largest ones in the state, constructed +by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter are +the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the Sunnyside, +capable of irrigating 100,000 acres.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 275px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p067.jpg" width="275" height="217" alt="A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.</span> +</div> + +<p>A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima +river unfolds a <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'panaroma'">panorama</ins> of unusual breadth and interest. Instead +of the heavy +forests of the west +side, the sage brush +struggles for existence +just above the +main ditches; but the +country below is +checkered with orchards, +farms, and +gardens; and cotton +woods protect +the banks of the +streams. Impressive +is the sight in springtime +when fruit trees are all in bloom and the Blossom Festival, +participated in by a hundred-thousand people, is ushering in +the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches of +color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester.</p> + + +<p>From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most +perfect form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, +vegetable gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected +and crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and +rivers, protected by the brown hills near by and watched over +by the mountains in the distance, supply composition for +pictures that in detail and variety must discourage all competition.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE WENATCHEE VALLEY.</div> + +<p>Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee +Valley, reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot +hills of the Cascades. This, too, was a desolate brown slope<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +until the effects of irrigation were felt on its rich volcanic ash +soil. After that only ten years were necessary to convert it +into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of the forlorn +looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the valley +and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of +blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. +Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens +below, are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters +that irrigate the land; while dodging from one side of the vale +to the other, or paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the +Wenatchee river hastens onward towards the Columbia.</p> + +<p>The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered +hills, spurs of the Cascades, over which many trails lead to +charming mountain lakes and streams, where summer homes +are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. The east opens +up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the Columbia +River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in all +the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in +the vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported +in affluence by successful fruit culture or gardening.</p> + +<p>Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including +Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central Washington, with +a population of about 5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee +and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth near the head of the valley; +and Cashmere, midway between the two. The pervading spirit +is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee red apple +is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 annually.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />LAKE CHELAN.</div> + +<p>Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest +sheets of fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American +continent. It is one of a number of beautiful lakes found +throughout the highlands in the vicinity of the upper Columbia, +but on account of its thrilling beauty and easy approach has +become one of the favorite resorts for the entire northwest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p069.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="THE WENATCHEE VALLEY—NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p069-big.jpg">THE WENATCHEE VALLEY—NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes +from the Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>River boats, automobile stages, or Great Northern trains allow +three principal modes of transportation, each of which reveals +different scenes of interest. During summer months the overland +trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant and presents the +fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The return +might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the +Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course +of four miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower.</p> + + +<p>Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, +the Columbia, and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan +canyon reaches in places nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters +occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 feet below the surface. +Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to Stehekin, views +are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color blending +are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the +traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness +of the whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy +with divine nature. Among features of striking scenic +importance are Railroad Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 +miles, the Stehekin River, and Rainbow Falls.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 345px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p071.jpg" width="345" height="600" alt="THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p071-big.jpg">THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.</a></span> +</div> +<p>This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating +with fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open +forests of spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the +homeseeker, pleasure for the sportsman, and continuous scenes +of interest for the tourist are suggested. Here one can yet feel +the presence of the true western spirit of frontiership, for this +part of the state was the last to be thrown open to settlers; and +the Indians are still in full possession of the Colville Indian +reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the south +central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river +to the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the +valleys yield liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, +and the higher lands are devoted to grain and stock raising. +Lumbering plays its part and mining for precious metals assumes +greater importance than elsewhere in the state.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<p>The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and +the Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil +and the Methow are dependent on highway conveyances. Of +extreme interest is the ride from Spokane up the Colville and +Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with a short side trip to Republic, +the leading gold producing city in the state. The railroad +crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing the +unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion +of King George of England and the next back under the Stars +and Stripes. Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque +canyons are invaded before arriving at the heights from +which Oroville appears far below—requiring an hour for the +train to descend by a series of remarkable switchbacks.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p072.jpg" width="400" height="200" alt="COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p072-big.jpg">COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in +their infancy, for its development has been so recent; but therein +lies much of its charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading +city is Newport, the county seat, prettily located on both +sides of the river, half in Idaho and half in Washington. In +Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, and Colville, the +largest city in the region, with a population of over 1,500 people. +A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's Indian +Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other +interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p073.jpg" width="349" height="600" alt="IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p073-big.jpg">IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p074.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK—MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p074-big.jpg">THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK—MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE DISTANCE.</a><br />Photo by Frank Palmer.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><a name="THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY" id="THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY"></a>THE SPOKANE COUNTRY.</div> + +<p>From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire +are easily reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city +and two others operate trains; while a network of electric lines +serves the immediate vicinity, penetrating the territory as +far south as Colfax, Palouse, and Moscow; southwest to Medical +Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden Lake and Coeur +d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic +sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each +mode of transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills +nearest Spokane are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther +away are forests of pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing +many lakes teeming with trout and black bass. Within a +radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain lakes, thirty-eight +of which are ideally located and supplied with all necessary equipment +for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second largest +fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden +Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National +Forest Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; +Liberty Lake, seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; +Spirit Lake, forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; +and Twin Lakes, thirty-three miles.</p> + +<p>The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. +They are neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and +Olympics, but they are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak +in eastern Washington is Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty +miles northeast of the city. From its summit one may look out +into the three northwestern states of Oregon, Idaho and Washington, +and into the province of British Columbia; and count +seventeen different lakes and rivers.</p> + +<p>Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the +valleys of the Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root +mountains are approached on the east. The roads westward +and southward lead past well cultivated gardens, green meadows +and groves, until finally is spread before one a sea of grain—continuous +wheat fields—the Big Bend to the west and the Palouse +to the south.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 344px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p076.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p076-big.jpg">INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 230px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p077.jpg" width="230" height="300" alt="METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p077-big.jpg">METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable +roads in America on account of the high class material of +which it is constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses +the state of Idaho and connects with roads leading to the National +Parks in Montana. This valley more than thirty miles in +length, with an average width of eight miles, comprises a level +irrigated country cut up into intensive garden and orchard +tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising apples, +pears, cherries, small +fruits, garden truck, +poultry, and live +stock. The advantages +of abundant +water power, proximity +to a great city, +rapid transit facilities, +and a healthful +climate, are quickly +transforming the region +into one of attractive +suburban +homes.</p> + + +<p>The Spokane River +drops 1,280 feet in a +distance of 100 miles, +and 130 feet within +the city limits, falling +precipitously +70 feet in the heart of the business section, over a dam +200 feet wide. On both sides is built the city sloping towards +its waters and overlooking the country beyond. Extensive +economic developments are taking place, there being seven +distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power +plants, manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. +Historical events are associated with Fort George +Wright, named for a famous Indian fighter; Indian Canyon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane, a pow-wow +place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first government +Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early +fur traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p078.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p078-big.jpg">SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.</a></span> +</div> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE WHEAT PLATEAU.</div> + +<p>The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big +bend of the Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which +stretches eastward until it blends with the rolling Palouse, one +of the richest farm regions in the northwest, and southeast +across the Snake River to the Blue Mountains; although considerable +wheat is raised in the country lying between the +Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties to +the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the +waving heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the +horizon. The combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, +is a familiar example of the immensity of the machinery needed +when gathering the mammoth crop, which for the entire state +is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels annually.</p> + +<p>The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" or old river +courses, sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is +practiced and where strings of small alkali lakes have been +scattered. Two of the most important are Moses Coulee in +Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming the boundary line +between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old bed of +the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the +Quincy Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land +to be some day irrigated by water conducted under the Columbia +river from Wenatchee Lake in Chelan county.</p> + +<p>The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, +Moses Lake, near which irrigation from wells is successfully +carried on, and Rock Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the +Palouse. The most important river is the Palouse which +creates the Palouse Falls just before joining the Snake River. +Near this stream are several prosperous cities, including Colfax, +Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College and Experiment +Station.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p080.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="PRIEST RAPIDS—SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p080-big.jpg">PRIEST RAPIDS—SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND</a><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br />THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY.</div> + +<p>The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a +canyon of 1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a natural +dividing line between Whitman and Franklin counties on the +north, and Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the +south. Its warm canyon is famous for early fruits and berries +which are shipped in carloads to eastern and western points.</p> + +<p>Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all +four counties to the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally +by orchards which assume their greatest proportions in the +beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla valleys. Over this rich +country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns supreme, her authority +being limited only by the Columbia and Snake rivers, or +the Blue Mountains; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy +and Clarkston are important centers in their own districts.</p> + +<p>Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wallula, +the site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla +Walla. When once seen, no words are needed to tell why these +lovely plains, all ready for the planting and moistened with +sufficient rainfall annually, were so attractive to the early settlers, +and inspired the first serious efforts at colonization.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</div> + +<p>All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through +the Columbia river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fraternity. +The grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the +region, it supplies unlimited water for successful irrigation and +power purposes, and in places still provides the principal mode +of transportation. Between Kettle Falls and the Snake river are +a number of important rapids, chief of which is Priest Rapids, +just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a descent of seventy +feet and a possible horse power of half a million.</p> + +<p>Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of +Kennewick and Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to +the sea as soon as the Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest +elevation in the Inland Empire and surrounded by a large area +of irrigable land, they are served by three transcontinental railroads, +permitting rapid transit to any part of the northwest.</p> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p081.png" width="500" height="233" alt="OUR SCENIC HIGHWAYS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of +roads which, finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineering +and commercial importance the French highways, and in +scenic grandeur the mountain passes of Switzerland. Easy approaches +are being constructed to every town and hamlet and +into every farming community. So vigorously has the work +been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, +except Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its +mountain recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles +have been already completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth +of broad thorofares, boulevards, and country highways. The +most important highways built and maintained at state expense +are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland Empire, the Olympic and +the National Park.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the +state of California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven +miles north of Washington's boundary line, a total distance of +about two thousand miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is within +the state of Washington, connecting Vancouver on the Columbia +with Blaine at the international line. It traverses nine counties +of Washington, containing forty-eight per cent of the wealth +and fifty-five per cent of the population, and passes through nine +county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, Vancouver, +Kalama. Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and +Bellingham.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 343px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p082.jpg" width="343" height="600" alt="ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p082-big.jpg">ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> + +<p>From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward +through the prune and plum orchards of Clarke county, where +more of these trees grow than in all other parts of the state +combined. Along the banks of the historic Columbia and through +the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it winds toward Kelso, famous +for smelt fisheries; and Castle Rock, the gateway to Mount St. +Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north fork of the +picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley is followed +to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly +growing railroad centers having a combined population of +15,500 people. Groves, orchards, gardens and prairies line the +smooth gravelly road from here to Olympia, where the first view +of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire to swerve off toward +Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly completed +Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, +is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins +and draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. +Rising above the famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to +cross the oak moor lands marking the beginning of Tacoma's +playgrounds and reminding one of southern England, the road +soon enters Tacoma, third city in population in the state.</p> + +<p>Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, +touching at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; +at Auburn and Kent, centers of a rich dairy section; and at +Renton, bristling with manufacturing importance near the +southern end of beautiful Lake Washington. A dozen miles more +and you are on the streets of Seattle, metropolis of the northwest +and third city in size west of the Rocky Mountains.</p> + +<p>Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds +along by Lake Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty +lakes, entering green woods, intersecting meadows, crossing +streamlets, rising to sightly plateaus and descending again to +peaceful valleys before it reaches Everett, a city of 32,000, located +on an eminence overlooking the waters of the Sound.</p> + +<p>The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway +skirts the Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish +river in the Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +road branches off to Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Burlington, +where it intersects the Skagit county road leading from +Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one may appreciate the famous +Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," where 173 +bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land protected +from the sea and river by immense dykes.</p> + +<p>Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is +reached, said to be the most picturesque on the entire route: for +the Sound is plainly seen from the shaded highway which clings +to the side of Chuckanut Mountain, while the electric interurban +and the Great Northern railway traverse the waterfront below. +Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has innumerable attractions to hold +the tourist, who still has twenty miles' journey if he would follow +the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit at Blaine, the most +northwesterly municipality in the United States. Near by is the +Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the northwest; +where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />SUNSET HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting +through automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and +connecting the western with the eastern counties. Throughout +its full four hundred miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces +the tourist to scenes which for diversity and pleasant surprises, +varying from rugged mountains and roaring waterfalls to +peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, can nowhere +be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades are +never more than five per cent.</p> + +<p>Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises +northeastward to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just +below the town of Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the +same name, the "Niagara of the West." This immense stream +of water falling 268 feet, is now harnessed to supply power and +light to the cities and towns of Puget Sound. Following the +banks of this river the highway penetrates entrancing forests +and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and river +are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains +puffing towards the summit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p085.jpg" width="350" height="600" alt="AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p085-big.jpg">AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + +<p>Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of +the Yakima, and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake +Keechelus, where the government is building a huge dam for +storing water to irrigate the Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Passing +the southern extremity of Lake Kachees, another deep +mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal shipping center, +enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the cultured city of +Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of the state +normals.</p> + +<p>The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a +5,200-foot pass, permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier +and Hood. The banks of the Columbia are followed to Wenatchee, +the metropolis of north central Washington and the +famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it proceeds +along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a winding +canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big +Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Waterville, +the county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly eastward +to continue in an almost unbroken line through expansive +wheat fields towards Spokane, the metropolitan city of the Inland +Empire, over a hundred miles away.</p> + +<p>At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth +while to linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to +be the old bed of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has +attracted attention from geographers of international reputation. +Wilbur, Davenport, the county seat of Lincoln county, +and Reardan, besides many smaller settlements, almost lost in +the midst of the great wheat fields, appear before the thin +woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the Inland +Empire Road, a southern route to Spokane via Walla +Walla. Following the Wenas Valley to North Yakima, it continues +southeast through the Union Gap and along the Sunnyside<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a +splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance appears. +From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and entrance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +to the Horse Heaven country, the road drops toward the +Columbia river and soon reaches Kennewick, the home of early +strawberries, and Pasco, county seat of Franklin county.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p087.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p087-big.jpg">LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD.</a><br />Photo by Frank Palmer.</span> +</div> + +<p>From here the Central Washington Highway threads the extensive +wheat fields toward the northeast, passing through Connell, +Lind, Ritzville, and Sprague, all important wheat shipping +centers; and Cheney, the site of another state normal, fifteen +miles southwest from the city of Spokane.</p> + +<p>The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city +of Walla Walla; but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Columbia +county, it divides, uniting again near Rosalia, twenty-five +miles south of Spokane. The shorter route trends northeast, +crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes through Colfax, +county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse Valley. The +other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, enters +Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the +eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending +northward it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields; enters +Pullman, home of the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakesdale; +joins the other branch at the county boundary line and +soon reaches the southern outskirts of Spokane.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p088.jpg" width="400" height="148" alt="INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA.</span> +</div> + +<p>From Spokane this road presses northward through the +Colville Valley to the Columbia, and thence to the international +boundary line, having previously passed at Deer Park the +Arcadia orchard, largest commercial apple orchard in the world; +Loon Lake, a summer resort; Chewelah, a mining town surrounded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +by a dairying country; and Colville, county seat of +Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant +contrast is this northern extension, regaining the mountains +and evergreen forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious +waterfalls, and the chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and +green meadows.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS.</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p089.jpg" width="300" height="191" alt="ANACORTES ROAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANACORTES ROAD.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel +to Lake Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, +will form a complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from +which it derives its name. Winding along at the foot of the +mountains, it connects the leading cities of the district and exposes +some of the most scenic features of the Sound country, +including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Grays Harbor, +and occasionally +the Pacific +Ocean. The +principal cities +touched at are +Shelton, Port +Townsend, Port +Angeles, Hoquiam, +Aberdeen, +Elma and +Olympia.</p> + + +<p>The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rainier +National Park, whence it bears southward to the headwaters +of the Cowlitz, crosses to the Chehalis Valley and, after connecting +with Chehalis and Centralia, leads southwest, over the low +coast range to Raymond and South Bend on Willapa Bay, +and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia.</p> + +<p>Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade mountains. +Two are nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass +Highway, paralleling the Sunset as far as North Yakima, and +one along the north bank of the Columbia. A third will sometime +cross and connect the Skagit Valley with the Methow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p090.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p090-big.jpg">WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p091.png" width="500" height="242" alt="A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of approval +from the followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs +are devoted to the opportunities for the chase and the plentifulness +of game fish and birds. Of course, the real sportsman would +rather discover the prey for himself. To tell minutely where +every prize is to be found would be like disclosing the end of an +interesting story before the beginning had been read. But even +if it were well to do so, every page in this publication would be +needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, +every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the +quarry.</p> + +<p>That the common species of game are plentiful is superfluous +to say. On holidays and at week ends, during the open +season, it is a familiar sight to witness the khaki-suited brave +looking sportsmen, with guns or fish baskets and rods, clambering +onto the trains or hiking to the nearest point where the +welcome woods and the realm of habitation meet. It is equally +common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along at +the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, +vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals.</p> + +<p>Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent +are the Chinese pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hungarian +partridge, and native prairie chickens; all are found +along the streams or in the clearings and fields of nearly every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +part of the state. Blue grouse are quite plentiful in western +Washington and in the wooded sections of eastern Washington.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan Highlands and in +several of the western counties. All species of ducks are to be +found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary +thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Empire; +while geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in +eastern Washington.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 340px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p092.jpg" width="340" height="600" alt="THE ANGLER'S REWARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ANGLER'S REWARD.<br />Photo by B. C. Collier</span> +</div> + +<p>Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real +fighting trout as Washington; including especially the mountain, +rainbow, cut throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, +and eastern brook, in all lakes and mountain streams. Black bass +and perch are very plentiful in the land-locked lakes; and certain +sections produce also many varieties of white fish, sun fish, +croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget Sound, the harbors +and the Columbia River contain many species of salmon.</p> + +<p>The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, +found chiefly in the hills and mountains, although in some localities +it invades the domains of domestic animals. The leading +varieties noted are the mule and black tail, there being also a +few white tail. In the Olympic region are large herds of elk +and a few in the southwest and northeastern counties. These, +however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain goat and +sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades; while the +black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and mountains; +also occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These +latter, however, keep themselves far removed from the main traveled +roads; only by much care are they located, so that the +timid need have no fear of wandering in the woods alone.</p> + +<p>In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of +the year, five trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a +number by separate counties. The state hatcheries alone planted +4,399,050 trout in 1913. The common birds are propagated +and set free at both public and private expense.</p> + +<p>With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and +counties blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, +the true sportsman will never regret casting his lot with +the state of Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be +encouraged to the fullest degree.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p094.jpg" width="346" height="600" alt="IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p094-big.jpg">IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p095.jpg" width="500" height="239" alt="CITIES AND SUGGESTED TRIPS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural +setting, and reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic +design of the people who dwell within them. In western +Washington they are usually protected by verdure covered hills, +and built to overlook the Sound, the harbors, or the rivers. The +smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams which supply power +and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible.</p> + +<p>The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and +adorned with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking +in the Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually +in sight. In the northern counties, however, the native +trees and mountains again become more prominent.</p> + +<p>All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable +hotels. Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and +other public buildings are of modern structure; the streets are +generally paved; practically all have electric lights and pure +running water. The homes are planned both for beauty and +comfort, and are often surrounded by green lawns or gardens +where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers reach perfection.</p> + +<p>The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the +larger centers, and the more important trips from each. They +are arranged to represent a tour about the state and in the +order in which one might visit all, or certain ones only, with +the least expenditure of time. The cities given have commercial +organizations prepared to give further information regarding +their respective localities.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="columbia" id="columbia"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p096.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p096-big.jpg">THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON</a><br /><i>Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</i></span> +<div class='poem'><span style="margin-left: 7em;">"<i>Superbly flowing</i></span><br /> +<i>By piny banks basaltiform, romantic</i>"<br /></div></div> + +<p><b>SPOKANE:</b> Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest +city in the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +per cent in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River +with wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad +centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating +on their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, +theaters, public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in +the northwest. Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at +more than $2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city +in the United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with +broad highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There +is a boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing +pool a mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One +may see large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, +and many big development projects within a limited area. It is the +home of the North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per +cent of the apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana.</p> + + +<p>A few of the more important trips should include the following:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in Eastern Washington.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still there).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal qualities of +water; one of state's hospitals here. Return by way of Cheney, +home of one of state normal schools.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to Hayden Lake.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at cost of $194,000.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on Waikiki Road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich agricultural valley, +good roads, mountains in sight, many lakes.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline Falls; see Box +and Grandview Canyons; river falls 400 feet in 12 miles.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse country.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State College at Pullman, +one of the most remarkable rides—train, auto, or electric.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver mine in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See also "<a href="#THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY">Spokane Country</a>" under the "Inland Empire."</div> + + +<p><b>WALLA WALLA:</b> (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one +time said to "have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more +pretty girls than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. +One of the richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to +Vancouver, oldest city in the state, and home of first white woman +in the Northwest. Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered +with waving grain, surround it; while many a little stream, +protected by cottonwoods and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. +The N. P. and O. W. R. & N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway +pass through. Trees line the well paved streets and produce a particularly +artistic effect. Here is located Whitman College, on the site +where Stevens made his famous treaty with the Indians; the State +Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old +Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest bank in state.</p> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for wild and +rugged canyons and summer resorts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only pass to the Wallowa +country in Oregon; +Wallowa Lake.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bingham Hot Springs, +40 miles; Clinker Hot +Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The famous Whitman +monument at Waiilatpui, +about 6 miles +west.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The Columbia and +Snake rivers; Palouse +Falls; the Little and +Big Meadows.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vast wheat, barley and +rye farms, some of +which contain 4,000 +acres and more; also +large stock ranches.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The Touchet Valley, +where diversified +farming is successful.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, via Inland +Empire Highway.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p097.jpg" width="300" height="239" alt="A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>NORTH YAKIMA:</b> Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the +largest body of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. +All points in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are +easily reached. Business and public buildings are of artistic design. +City is symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It +grew from a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace +with the rapid development evident all up and down the valley. A +blossom festival is held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair +in September. A sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles +through alfalfa fields and orchards where the results of irrigation +are displayed. Good automobile roads extend in every direction.</p> + + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive view of valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the narrows to Soda +Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the return Mt. Rainier +and Mt. Adams are plainly seen.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline motor, automobile, +or the N. P. Ry. The towns of Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, +Mabton, Granger, Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, +will be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in the state.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the Cascades—summer +resorts and storage reservoirs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of Basalt, following the +American and Bumping rivers to the summit of the Cascades.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past "Painted Rocks."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'>Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain and glacial +scenery here rivals the Canadian Rockies.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas—good roads and scenery.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas—beautiful scenery.</div> + + +<p><b>ELLENSBURG:</b> Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 +acres are irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 +acres more. A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and +dairy farms gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where +grand mountain scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. +One of the three State Normals is here. Splendid highways.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good view of Mt. +Stewart (9,470 feet).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; perpendicular +cliffs on either side.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and Cle Elum, 40 +miles. At these three beautiful lake resorts, in the heart of +the Cascades, the Government is building, at mammoth expense, +a system of storage dams for watering the Yakima Valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table Mountain, by a +5,200-foot pass from which Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other +peaks are visible.</div> + + +<p><b>WENATCHEE:</b> The metropolis of North Central Washington, and +gateway to the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and +Lake Chelan regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and +Wenatchee rivers, with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles +away. One continuous orchard is seen up and down both valleys. +Auto roads lead in all directions to innumerable points of interest, +and the navigable Columbia provides transportation for many +miles. A labyrinth of lakes and beautiful farms are within easy reach. +The mountain scenery is impressive. For a commanding view one +should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the +smoke of Walla Walla are visible from some points. Population 5,000.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and Rainbow Falls by +Red Apple route and auto stage and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 +miles from Lake Chelan—a star trip.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. Horseshoe Basin.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a beautiful natural +park, between Lake Chelan and Entiat Valley, reached by +Government trail; good hotels.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, wheat fields.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or train, boat part way if +preferred. A week or more could be spent to advantage. Historical +sights are numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian +Mission. Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in state. +Big irrigation projects are seen. Near Oroville are Osoyoos, +Wanacut and Epsom Salts Lakes, and the Similkameen river. +Okanogan, county seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; irrigation, +captivating scenery, splendid roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry counties.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake.</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p099.jpg" width="364" height="600" alt="OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p099-big.jpg">OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, from which +Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, and the government +fish hatcheries are easily reached; also Icicle River by horseback +over government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, +(auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite mountain resort +23 miles northwest.</div> + + +<p><b>SNOHOMISH:</b> "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in +Snohomish county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country +just east of Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and +river boats, as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips.</p> + + +<p><b>EVERETT:</b> "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. +Located on a sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish +River. Views on every side are superb. The Cascades and +Olympics are clearly visible, especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and +many lesser peaks, including Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. +Parks, boulevards and playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic +completeness. The only arsenic plant in the United States is here. +It is an important manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, +machinery and paper. Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country +extends to the Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is +held in July. The G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three +interurbans center here, while automobile roads, including the Pacific +Highway, lead to the mountains and to lake resorts.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from which may be +reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and Bridal Veil Falls; Lake +Serene, Lake Isabel and many scenic peaks easily climbed.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and Olney Falls.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, hunting, camping.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, and Mt. Pilchuck.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic Hot Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes and resorts; +Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other towns—some excellent roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and Tulalip Indian +Reservation.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower Stillaguamish +where lie rich dyked lands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat fields.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Seattle 1-1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2-1/2 hours to the north, +by Pacific Highway.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe with its large condensery; +state reformatory here.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro Woolley and La +Conner.</div> + + +<p><b>SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:</b> Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, +Sedro Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, +famous both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest +farm land in the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes +are built to protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have +been known as high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is +nowhere in the state more important, two condenseries being supported<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +in Mount Vernon. Two main railroad lines with branches, besides an +interurban, serve the section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County +Highway cross at Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, +Anacortes, Everett and east into the mountains, visible from almost +every point. Many beautiful lakes in region.</p> + + +<p><b>ANACORTES:</b> A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity +of Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and +Sound steamers supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway +starts here. Salmon canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing +and ship building may be seen to advantage.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry and continue to +Coupeville and Fort Casey. Splendid roads; rhododendrons.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water always in sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all Sound points.</div> + + +<p><b>BELLINGHAM:</b> Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern +Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the +largest salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills +on coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount +Maker are visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the +state normal schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay +where the ships of the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan +Islands; fishing craft may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have +been provided. Pretty roads lead through big timber in various directions. +At its door stands Mount Baker, one of main tourist objectives +of the northwest, and one of the most interesting mountains on the continent. +The annual Marathon races, participated in by the athletes of +the world, are made to its summit and back to Bellingham.</p> + + +<p>Suggested tours:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited time.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan islands; boat +leaves every morning. See page 33.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also Deception Pass.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; Government bulb +farm, in full bloom during April and May; Country Club.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; Nooksack +Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through big timber.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United States. Birch Bay +and Lincoln Park, visiting also Custer, Lynden and Ferndale.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Chuckanut Hill—view of Sound and surrounding country.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised—a rare sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver and the ocean—splendid +water trips.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or train.</div> + + +<p><b>PORT ANGELES:</b> Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and +nearer the ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. +Harbor is one of the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive +improvements are taking place. It has one of the largest saw and +shingle mills in the world. No prettier scenery anywhere.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p102.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p102-big.jpg">OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 miles southwest, +in the heart of the Olympics. Hotel cost half a million.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to Mt. Olympus.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built at cost of .,000,000.00 +to furnish light and power for entire Olympic Peninsula.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see largest irrigation +tracts in Western Washington. Mountains and Sound are +continually in view. Trip may be continued to Port Townsend +or along the Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor.</div> + + +<p><b>PORT TOWNSEND:</b> "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on +Quimper Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery +Bay, and Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain +View Park a broad outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the +waters mentioned, the Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and +hundreds of minor details. Other beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and +Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls than elsewhere in Western Washington. +Pretty driveways decorated with rhododendrons, unusual boating +possibilities and easy approach to the Olympics, make the region +ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city is Fort Worden, headquarters +for the Puget Sound system of defenses, where the 6th +Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders daily programs. +Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound stop daily.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in state, and other +points on Whidbey Island.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, around Mt. +Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood Canal, returning +via Discovery Bay and Saints Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic +Highway leads clear through to Olympia.</div> + + +<p><b>SEATTLE:</b> Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population +of 325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, +valleys and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, +but sloping gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire +area is 94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, +Lake Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor +known as Elliott Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines +while an elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects +its thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. +There are also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all +points there is visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics +or Lake Washington and the Cascades.</p> + +<p>Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its +beauty. Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and +at the same time have increased the area of the city by supplying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +material for filling in the tide +flats, now occupied by the most +valuable factory sites. The forty-two +story Smith Building is the +highest in the world outside of +New York. At Salmon Bay the +Government is constructing its +second largest locks in a canal +to connect the Sound with Lake +Washington. Six transcontinental +lines have their terminals in +this city which is also the gateway +to Alaska and the home port +of the Great Circle Route.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 224px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p104.jpg" width="224" height="500" alt="SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW YORK." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p104-big.jpg">SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW YORK.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Within the city one should visit:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Washington Canal Locks, +Fort Lawton, West Point +Lighthouse, Loyal Height.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>University of Washington and +A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, overlooking +Lake Washington.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lookout Tower at Volunteer +Park.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lookout on forty-two story +Smith Building.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>West Seattle and Alki Point—waterfront +camping sites inside +city limits.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Its many beautiful parks and +matchless boulevard system.</div> + + +<p>Outside trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, +3 or 4 days—auto or train.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of +America," and Lake Crescent, +via Port Angeles, 2 days—steamer +and auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 +day by Snoqualmie Pass Road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near North Bend.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See pages 29 and 33.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Whidbey Island—Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still Park, 1 or 2 days.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds—paved road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United States, half day. Several +good auto trips may be taken from here.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and Auburn. A paved +road extends all the way to Tacoma and beyond.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and resort region between +Seattle and Tacoma.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett on way.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain scenery, fishing and +hunting; 1 or 2 days.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the Olympics.</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p105.jpg" width="349" height="600" alt="HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p105-big.jpg">HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p> + +<div class='hang1'>Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake Washington; go by +the Duwamish river route and return by Rainier Valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See description of other <a href="#Puget_sound">Puget Sound</a> cities, all reached quickly.</div> + + +<p><b>PUYALLUP:</b> A famous berry center in the rich Puyallup Valley. +Over a quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. +All Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans +and auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour +to Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and +the Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point +for Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern +entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p106.jpg" width="500" height="249" alt="TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS 38,000." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p106-big.jpg">TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS 38,000.</a></span> +</div> + + +<p><b>TACOMA:</b> Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance +in the state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the +great harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward +the west while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. +Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. +A complete system of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the +natural beauty. The residence portion of the city overlooks an extensive +manufacturing section which claims the largest meat packing +establishment in the west, the largest grain warehouse in the world, +and the largest smelter west of Butte City, with one of the tallest +cement smokestacks in the world. Tacoma is also the largest flour +milling center west of Minneapolis and the fifth city in exports and +imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed highway lead south +through a vast natural park consisting of broad prairies dotted with +lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or southeast into the +famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its improved parks +comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point Defiance park at northern +extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright Park in center of +city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different varieties.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> + +<p>Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, +seating 38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only +one on a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger +depot, model of its kind; and a speedway of 2-1/10 miles where the +motor races of the northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips outside of city:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park—see page 49.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy farms.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>American Lake, camping headquarters for the National Guard.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, summer resorts +on southern outskirts of city. Some of the best natural +roads in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake Cushman and +the Olympic Mountains—excellent roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer—immense water power plants.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild Cat Falls.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm—dozens of lakes in vicinity.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover Creek.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, McNeils, Anderson +and other islands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See also descriptions of other <a href="#Puget_sound">Puget Sound</a> cities.</div> + + +<p><b>OLYMPIA:</b> "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the Northwest," +and seat of state government. Three railroads and four state +highways converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low +verdure covered hills protecting the city and extending out along the +shores. The mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on +the north, is Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon +trail is marked by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. +Tumwater, a mile away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget +Sound. In Olympia the first store was opened for business in the state. +The Old New England Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial functions, +is marked forever by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, +and the homes of the first Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and +General R. H. Milroy are still to be seen.</p> + + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls—trolley cars, paved +road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black Lake, 5 miles; +Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; +Bloom's and Hewitt's Lakes, 2 miles.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux Logging Camps.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small islands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and Lake Cushman, +45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains and Canal always in sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper Sound points.</div> + + +<p><b>ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM:</b> Two cities on Grays Harbor, connected +by electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the +southern route. Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aberdeen),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +Near by are some of the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, +an increase of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to +lumbering and fishing industries, but farming and dairying are gaining.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +including the Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm +ocean beaches a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race +tracks. Three transcontinental trains serve the district.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 352px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p108.jpg" width="352" height="600" alt="IN AND ABOUT TACOMA." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p108-big.jpg">IN AND ABOUT TACOMA.</a></span> +</div> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just across the Chehalis +River. A trolley line connects it with Aberdeen.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sunset +and Moclips beaches, by auto, +train or boat—ideal summer +resorts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Point Grenville and Cape Elizabeth, +bold headlands of the +Olympics on either side of the +Quiniault River; near by are +sporting grounds of the sea +lions.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Montesano, county seat, at junction +of Wynooche with the Chehalis +River (boat, train or auto). +Land near by produces 125 +bushels of oats or 80 tons of +rutabagas to the acre.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Around the harbor visiting Whaling +station, Government jetty +and light house; see crab fisheries; +enjoy ocean swell.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Humptulips Valley and Lake +Quiniault in the Indian Reservation; +returning by canoe +down Quiniault River to Tahola, +near the oil prospects; or +continue into the Olympics as +far as desired.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Read also "<a href="#HARBOR_COUNTRY">Harbor Country</a>" +chapter.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 239px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p109.jpg" width="239" height="325" alt="HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND:</b> Two progressive cities in southwestern +Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. +Lumbering, farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture +are sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country."</p> + + +<p><b>CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS:</b> Important railroad centers four +miles apart, connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and +Portland. Combined population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A +rich dairy and farm country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, +the Newaukum and Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Centralia +daily. Coal mines, farms and lumber are important. Between +cities are Southwest Washington Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county +seat, is a large condensery. The Pacific Highway and the Rainier National +Park Highway cross near by.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>The oldest Temple of Justice in the state—built in 1851.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of Skookumchuck and +Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn where Gen. Grant stopped.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. Girl's school just +north of Centralia.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'>Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at Tenino.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs Falls, Cowlitz +Gorge.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at Winlock, Napavine, +Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and other pretty towns. See +smelt fisheries and ocean-going cigar shaped raft.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle Rock—two weeks' trip.</div> + + +<p><b>VANCOUVER:</b> Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson +Bay Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible +from all points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke +county is noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal +habitat. Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 +acres of land, 300 of which constitute +a natural park with many winding +roads. State schools for the deaf and +the blind are located near. What is +said to be the oldest apple tree in the +Northwest still thrives. Electric +lines extend to the outlying districts, +also to Portland, Oregon, while auto +drives may be made along the river, +nowhere more picturesque, or +through the surrounding prosperous +farming districts.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles +(auto or steam cars).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Washougal River, 20 miles east +(auto or steam cars).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown +Columbia Paper Mills.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Merrill, costing .5.00 for +four or five persons.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Portland, Oregon, the second city +in the Northwest, soon to be +connected by a $1,750,000.00 +bridge across the Columbia.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and camping.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via Lewis River.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat county, via +White Salmon.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in Skamania county.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich picturesque region +adapted to orchards and farming.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to Celilo Falls.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 194px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p110.jpg" width="194" height="300" alt="A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>GOLDENDALE:</b> County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. +P. & S. railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with +valleys, mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. +Helens, are always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. Historical +sights are numerous.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p111.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p111-big.jpg">ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p112.png" width="500" height="155" alt="ALASKA,—OUR ALLY" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alaska +awaits you. Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free empires! +This region is so extensive that even the state of Washington +would be lost in its midst, for its area is equal to that of +the original thirteen colonies, with Maine, Vermont, Ohio, Indiana, +Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown in, or one-fifth +of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude of +1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the +Atlantic to the Pacific.</p> + +<p>In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupendous +mountains reach to three and nearly four miles in height, +loftier than any others in the United States or its possessions. +The Yukon River is 2,300 miles in length and its nearest rival, +1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in North America are here, +which make those of Europe look like mere pygmies, and volcanoes +still in eruption may be viewed from a safe point. The +scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the snowy +peaks beyond is truly magnificent.</p> + +<p>It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there +had been produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price +paid for its purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each +white person now inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold mining +and within the last twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, +seals, furs, copper and silver—permanent resources of region.</p> + +<p>Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its latitude +is similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washington +and as the Gulf Stream affects England. Both plant and +animal life flourish and about 100,000 square miles of land are +available for agricultural purposes.</p> + +<p>To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip +from Seattle—a thousand miles of calm sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Map" id="Map"></a> +<img src="images/foldout_map.jpg" width="600" height="435" alt="Map of Washington" title="" /> +<small><a href="images/foldout_map-big.jpg">Transcriber's Note: Click here for larger image</a></small></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 231px;"><br /> +<img src="images/back_cover.jpg" width="231" height="233" alt="SEAL-OF-THE-STATE-OF-WASHINGTON" title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> +<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p> + +<p>The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p></div> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30139 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/30139-h/images/back_cover.jpg b/30139-h/images/back_cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b8f2430 --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-h/images/back_cover.jpg diff --git a/30139-h/images/cover.jpg b/30139-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..df30325 --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/30139-h/images/foldout_map-big.jpg b/30139-h/images/foldout_map-big.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f7c92c --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-h/images/foldout_map-big.jpg diff --git a/30139-h/images/foldout_map.jpg b/30139-h/images/foldout_map.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a5e563 --- /dev/null +++ b/30139-h/images/foldout_map.jpg diff --git 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b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..718281e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #30139 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/30139) diff --git a/old/30139-8.txt b/old/30139-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6562af4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/30139-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3851 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. Giles + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Beauties of the State of Washington + A Book for Tourists + +Author: Harry F. Giles + +Release Date: September 30, 2009 [EBook #30139] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WASHINGTON *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + + +THE BEAUTIES + +OF THE + +STATE OF WASHINGTON + +[Illustration] + +BY HARRY F. GILES--DEPUTY COMMISSIONER + + STATE BUREAU STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL--SECRETARY OF STATE-EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER. + + + + +[Illustration: THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER + +"_Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue_" + +_Copyright by Asahel Curtis_] + + + + +[Illustration: STATE OF WASHINGTON + +DEPARTMENT OF STATE + + BUREAU OF STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL, SECRETARY OF STATE + EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER + + THE BEAUTIES + of the + STATE of WASHINGTON + + A BOOK FOR TOURISTS + BY HARRY F. GILES, DEPUTY COMMISSIONER] + +[Illustration: SEAL OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON] + + OLYMPIA + FRANK M. LAMBORN, PUBLIC PRINTER + 1915 + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS. + + Page + List of Full Page Illustrations 3 + The Evergreen State 5 + Our Mountains 9 + Washington Forests 15 + The Climate 19 + Puget Sound 25-38 + Ideal for Yachting and Cruising 29 + Hood Canal 29 + Other Trips 31 + Commerce 32 + The East Shores 32 + The Islands 33 + San Juan Group 33 + Whidby Island 36 + Other Islands 36 + Olympic Peninsula 38 + The Harbor Country 40-48 + Grays Harbor 43 + Willapa Bay 46 + Mount Rainier National Park 49 + The Columbia River 54 + The Inland Empire 63-80 + Chief Features 64 + How to Reach Them 64 + The Yakima Valley 65 + The Wenatchee Valley 67 + Lake Chelan 68 + The Okanogan Highlands 70 + The Spokane Country 75 + The Wheat Plateau 79 + The Walla Walla Country 80 + The Columbia River 80 + Our Scenic Highways 81-89 + The Pacific Highway 81 + Sunset Highway 84 + Inland Empire Highway 86 + Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways 89 + A Sportsman's Paradise 91 + Cities and Suggested Trips 95 + Alaska--Our Ally 112 + Map Showing Principal Highways + + + + +FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + Cover Design (a water color) Miss Zola F. Gruhlke + Engravings By Western Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle + + THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Title. Photographer. Page + The Rhododendron (C.) Asahel Curtis Frontispiece + Lake Chelan (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 8 + A Forest Stream Curtis & Miller 16 + A Puget Sound Sunset Webster & Stevens 32 + Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake (C.) Curtis & Miller 49 + Sunnyside Canal (C.) Asahel Curtis 64 + Priest Rapids 80 + Columbia River from White Salmon (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 96 + + ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Deep Lake Curtis & Miller 4 + Snoqualmie Falls (C.) Romans Photo Co. 6 + Mount Baker (Gr.) 10 + Looking Across the Cascades (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 12 + Principal Trees in Washington C. H. Ziddell 14 + Lumber Industry (Gr.) 18 + Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.) Asahel Curtis 21 + Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.) 23 + Bremerton Scenes (Gr.) 24 + Tacoma and The Mountain Avery & Potter 27 + Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.) 28 + Seattle and The Olympics Curtis & Miller 30 + San Juan Islands (Gr.) J. A. McCormick 34 + Olympic Mountain Scenes (Gr.) 37 + Lake Crescent Curtis & Miller 39 + The Chehalis River (C.) Asahel Curtis 41 + Southwest Washington Views (Gr.) 44 + Surf on Washington Coast (C.) Asahel Curtis 47 + Mount Rainier National Park (Gr.) 51 + Mount Rainier and Lake Washington (C.) W. P. Romans 53 + Along the Columbia River (Gr.) 56 + Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.) 58 + Snake River Country Asahel Curtis 60 + Rock Lake Curtis & Miller 62 + The Yakima Valley Curtis & Miller 66 + The Wenatchee Valley Curtis & Miller 69 + The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.) 71 + Irrigation Scenes (Gr.) 73 + City of Spokane Frank Palmer 74 + Wheat Fields (Gr.) 76 + Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.) 78 + Along the Scenic Highways (Gr.) 82 + Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.) B. C. Collier 85 + Spokane Falls and Bridge Frank Palmer 87 + Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.) Grant Humes 90 + The Angler's Reward B. C. Collier 92 + Spokane Scenes (Gr.) 94 + Our Leading Educational Institutions (Gr.) 99 + Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.) 102 + Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.) 105 + Tacoma's Parks (Gr.) 108 + Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.) 111 + Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright. + +[Illustration: DEEP LAKE--A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: The EVERGREEN STATE + + "O beautiful and grand, + My own my Native Land! + Of thee I boast + Great Empire of the West, + The dearest and the best, + Made up of all the rest, + I loved thee most."] + + +The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the Union, named +for the "Father of His Country" and popularly called the "Evergreen +State," brings greetings. + +For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most beautiful +expression when all component elements have been harmoniously combined, +these words of welcome are written. You are invited to come and share +the joy that emanates from the satisfaction of living in a country as +nearly perfect as any that earth has to offer. + +In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that might appeal +to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, it is provided with all +things for ministering both to man's physical needs and to his innermost +longings. All forces have contributed towards its glory. More careful +preparation was never made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains +that reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their +innumerable streams and waterfalls; valleys and plateaus that spring +into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman; forests of big +trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect; the greatest of oceans +to temper with its breezes; inland seas and azure lakes to embellish and +attract--such are a few of the elements that make the State of +Washington and provide beauteous homes for its people. + + +[Illustration: SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)--"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST." + +Copyright by Romans Photo Co.] + +Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your youthful +impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to reign? You can +find it here--a place where wonderful pictures, real and far grander +than the famous paintings of your favorite artist, are constantly +visible from your kitchen window or from your work shop--and they need +no expensive frames to enhance their loveliness and no dusting to +prevent their obscurity. + +What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the brave mountaineers +who must yearly draw near the Almighty, and dare the elements by +treading dangerous yet entrancing trails to heights where the world +appears at your feet? Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to +accommodate yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic +highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you regard yourself +a mighty hunter and desire so to convince your friends? Or would you be +content to angle for the finny denizens of the deep with a certainty +that you will not in turn be tantalized? + +The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for all these. Its +mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not excelled by the most boasted +scenes of Switzerland. + +[Illustration: MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS.] + +Almost the year round the waters of Puget Sound and the harbors of the +southwest invite the small craft. Nearly 50,000 miles of scenic highway, +passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for your +automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and hoofed, will lure +you through many a jungle of delicate fern and sweet scented bramble; +while countless streams and lakes teem with fish of many species. + +Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, cozy camping +sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regattas, midwinter fairs, +roses at Christmas, golf the year round on turf that's always +green--these are a few of the charms that are as common in the state of +Washington as sands in the Sahara, or ice at the Poles. + +If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy that +exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's breast, +becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firmament are beheld, +then by all means visit this the "Evergreen State" and drink in the +glories which no book, howe'er so well written, and no picture, whoe'er +the artist, can portray with any degree of fullness or accuracy. + +Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. At one moment +you may be jostled along the streets of some metropolitan center among +people of many nationalities and within a mere hour or so be wafted to a +sequestered spot of transcendent beauty, where no voice but your own is +echoed by the hills and where the existence of any other human being to +share this planet can be completely forgotten. + +It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are planned: +mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out; lands are reclaimed from the +deep; orchards fill its valleys; wheat plateaus extend for miles; salmon +traps line the shores; its lumber supplies the world; its ships sail all +the seas; monstrous bridges cross the waterways; buildings vie with the +highest anywhere constructed; its schools rank first in the Union; its +men contribute to the world's greatness; its women vote and rear capable +families; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, originality, +enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes of the western +spirit, are evident throughout the state. + +Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 to over +1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been converted into +gardens, villages have developed into towns, while towns have grown into +cities, taking their places among the leading marts of the world. From a +frontier state it has come to be one of the greatest and most important +in the Union, adding to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that +has yet appeared on the horizon. + +[Illustration: LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN +THE WEST + +_"Pride of the waters of the world"_ + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR MOUNTAINS + + + "Touched with a light that hath no name, + A glory never sung, + Aloft on sky and mountain wall + Are God's great pictures hung."] + + +Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye of a visitor +upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists of the mountain +ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, forming, as it were, +ladders reaching from the green vales of earth to the blue vaults of +heaven. Silhouetted against the sky in the hazy distance, they are noted +by the westward bound traveler as soon as he reaches the highest point +in the divide of the Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way +eastward upon the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the +nearness of the welcome land. + +These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, both for their +scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence they exert on the +climate and on the lives of the people who build their homes in the +valleys below. Their supremacy is reflected by the thermometer, the +barometer, and the aerometer; for they help regulate the temperature, +the rainfall, and the wind's velocity. They form great repositories for +the waters that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. +Within their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious +and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their lower +zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of Washington's +big timber, while the alpine meadows above secure for the timid deer and +ptarmigan asylums of temporary freedom from too frequent disturbance by +prowling huntsmen. Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, +reserved for the wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields +traversed by the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. +Everywhere the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his +prowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking +mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to reach +some dizzy height. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE FROM PACK CREEK + +A CREVASSE + +AT THE SUMMIT + +SHUKSAN FALLS + +LAKE SIX-THOUSAND FEET + +MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM.] + +Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innumerable lakes, +beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady shores is many a sequestered +spot, most tempting to the camper who loves the mountain region; and +many a brook goes trickling over its stony course to join the rivers +below, pausing here and there in some shady dell to create a deep pool +for luring the fisherman, or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as +a waterfall of wonderful magnitude and magnificence. + +The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They remind us +perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth their fiery refuse, +or of the era when the sea covered most of what is now land. +Indestructible they stand and their rocky heights are in places +insurmountable. The works of man trespass everywhere else, but these +huge pillars of the ages rise in their majestic splendor and with +sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus far and no further! We will preserve +and guard your water and fuel supply. We will protect you from the +furies of the elements and produce materials for building your palaces. +We will create charming nooks where you may camp under the clear sky, +and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. We will fill the +brooks with swift darting fish; carpet the meadows with myriads of +flowers, ferns, and shrubs; and paint you pictures undreamt of by men +who have scorned our acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads +whereby your Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, +but not one of our number shall be moved nor its form be changed in the +least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty will we were +brought into existence." + +[Illustration: LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.] + +Each mountain range possesses its own distinct characteristics. Of least +importance, but none the less beautiful, are the Blue Mountains in the +southeastern corner of the state, providing pleasant summer retreats for +the people in that vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the +Olympic Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands +lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides. In +this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, presenting some +of the wildest and most inspiring scenery anywhere to be found. + +Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography of the state +are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from 5,000 to 8,000 feet +and named for the many hurrying streams that have cut their deep courses +upon the shady slopes. They extend from the British Columbia line +slightly southwest until divided by the Columbia river, whence they +continue through Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By +them the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct parts, +known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former comprising a portion +of the great Inland Empire. Forming a sort of spur on their east side, +north of the Columbia, and extending to the mountains of Idaho are the +beautiful rolling hills known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to +6,000 feet in altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on +their higher surfaces forests of pine. + +Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks tower above the +others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest by far is Mount Rainier +(or Mount Tacoma), second highest mountain in the United States proper, +14,408 feet in altitude and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and +Tacoma; Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania and +Yakima counties; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at the western edge +of Skamania county, reached from Castle Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, +10,730 feet, forty miles from Bellingham and one of its main +attractions; Mount Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier +Peak, 10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet is +the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that elevation. +Fifty-seven have already been named and measured. + +All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount Olympus in the +Olympics, constitute the main goals of the mountain loving clubs of the +northwest. Mountain phenomena are displayed in all with a maximum degree +of grandeur, insuring ample reward to those venturing to explore their +many fastnesses. + +[Illustration: A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK--PRINCIPAL TREES IN +WASHINGTON.] + +Photo by C. H. Ziddell. + + + + +[Illustration: WASHINGTON FORESTS + + "Cedar, and pine, and fir, and branching palm, + A sylvan scene, and as the ranks ascend + Shade above shade, a woody theater + Of stateliest view"] + +Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and mountains +of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions were originally left +bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a spirit of independence seem +to have pushed their bald heads up and above this beautiful covering +protecting the regions below. Into the fertile valleys and along the +river banks clear to the sea the stately ranks of these forests once +advanced, but such localities are now, for the most part, given over to +the cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transformation +are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the peaceful +pursuits of agriculture; for the broad Columbia plain was the only part +of the state dedicated from the first to the sole task of producing food +supplies rather than fuel and building material. + +About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up in eleven +national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, or to insure +permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen in her full pristine +glory--Conservation! Nearly six million acres more are under private +ownership. Investigation reveals evidences that their birth occurred +very many years ago, possibly five hundred or even six hundred years; +for that many rings have been counted on some of the largest trees. The +foliage appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it +first mingled with the landscape--hence the name "Evergreen State." + +The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scenery of the state +of Washington can be best realized by climbing to one of the heights +overlooking the timber line. From here one can readily see how perfectly +it hides every blemish of the irregular contour, blending beautifully +with the blue waters in the distance and the pale clouds floating above. +Thousands of greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light +yellowish tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of +bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast. + +Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its midst, +breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and cedars, it is easy +to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in size, form, color, and +variety, for + + "No tree in all the grove but has its charms, + Though each its hue peculiar." + +One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest forests of +the temperate zone; while standing proudly on every side are individual +giants, which for size can be duplicated nowhere else in the world, +excepting by occasional specimens of the famous Red Woods of California. + +These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and thoroughly +worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to mar their fame in +spite of the ages through which they have lived. Most prominent is the +Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), the giant of the +forest, growing erect as a plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown +two hundred feet or more above the ground. This is the most important +tree of the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past +ten years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in the +United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous proportions +of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a single one producing +material sufficient to build a palace of huge dimensions. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Curtis & Miller_ + +ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS + +"_O'erhung with wild woods, thickening green_"] + +Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching sometimes a height +of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases of over 20 feet; +yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds of all the shingles +produced in the United States. Similar to the Cypress, its sweet +soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous and always pleasing. Other +trees which provide lumber and add grace to the Washington woods are the +hemlocks, spruces, larches, and white firs, in the western part of +the state; and the pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern +counties. + +Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled throughout +the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the artistic design. +There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked madronas; the pale +barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, the bitter tasting +willows; the white flowered dogwood, prominent throughout the forests +until late in the spring, and occasionally found blooming in the fall; +the gray barked alder protecting the springs and mountain streams; the +sturdy oaks, skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and +the hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. Many of +these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find nothing more +suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city parks and boulevards. + +Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to have been +destined especially to yield food for the natural wanderers of the +forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be wanted in the state of +Washington. There is probably no other section of the world where wild +berries grow in greater profusion. Very prominent is the wild cherry, +the wild apple, the salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, +the salal berry, the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the +wild currant, and the raspberry. + +Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek with nature +lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for which this section of +the world is noted, is many a modest flower which in some sections +blooms nearly the whole year round, so soft is the climate; while the +pink petaled rhododendron, of bolder nature, Washington's state flower, +is prominent in June tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and +lining the course of many a pretty driveway. + +Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with its sweetness, +may be heard the music of some rippling stream winding its happy way +down the mountain side and playing, as it were, an accompaniment to the +duets of soul mated song birds unable to restrain their songs of joy. If +this is a wilderness then a wilderness is a paradise on earth. + +[Illustration: ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE CLIMATE + + "Eternal Spring with smiling Verdure here + Warms the mild Air and crowns the youthful year."] + + +People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip are always +interested in the climate of the locality attracting their attention, +for they know that absolute contentment in any clime, even for a brief +period, is impossible without a friendly attitude on the part of the +elements. So many regions seem to have been permanently blighted by +conditions opposed to human happiness, or at least to have been +forgotten in certain important essentials when Nature was passing round +her favors. + +The state of Washington, however, received a full share of climatic +blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes either of heat or +cold its climate is as temperate as that of southern England--a most +remarkable fact when one realizes that its latitude is higher than that +of the state of Maine and its northern boundary line corresponds to that +of North Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by the +protecting mountains and their dense forests together with the breezes +blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the mysterious Japan +Current. + +So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the mountainous +regions, that the same weight of clothing is by many found sufficient +the year round. In every section there is a long growing season and only +a short mild winter, known on the west side as the "rainy season." There +is never danger from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are +deflected to the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green +foliage the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture +available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of +flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle may be turned +loose almost any day in the year and the farmer is saved the necessity +of spending all his summer's profits in order that his livestock will +not starve during a long cold period. The lowest monthly normal +temperature, as deduced from a period of years, is for Seattle, 39°; +Spokane, 27°; and Walla Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal +temperatures of the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10°; +St. Paul, 12°; Des Moines, 20°; and Chicago, 24°. + +The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally stirring. +There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest parts the dryness of +the atmosphere favors evaporation. The nights are everywhere cool. When +millions in other climes are rolling about in their torturous beds, +struggling for the relief that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian +doffs his clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, +and is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the +morning refreshed and ready for life's battle. + + MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON + CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 57 62 61 57 59 + Seattle 60 64 63 58 61 + Tacoma 58 63 63 57 60 + Spokane 63 69 68 59 65 + + Chicago 66 72 71 64 68 + New York City 69 74 73 66 70 + Boston 66 72 70 63 68 + Washington, D. C. 73 77 75 68 73 + Philadelphia 72 76 74 68 72 + +The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, such as +discomforts the people in eastern cities during those months and causes +so many disappointments; for 80 per cent of our precipitation occurs +between October 15th and May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and +sunrise, so that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred. + +The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes while the +valleys, where the people make their homes, have no more than enough to +produce a vigorous plant growth. The average for the year on Puget Sound +is about the same as in Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New +York or Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation +in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that of California. + + +[Illustration: SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT.] + +The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, according to +the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 inches; Spokane, 18.8 +inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, 33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 +inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, +43.3 inches; Los Angeles, 15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches. + + MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 1.59 0.67 0.74 2.01 5.01 + Seattle 1.41 0.61 0.46 1.98 4.46 + Tacoma 1.97 0.69 0.66 2.79 5.91 + Spokane 1.61 0.67 0.48 1.01 3.8 + Walla Walla 1.2 0.4 0.4 0.9 2.9 + + Chicago 3.52 3.62 3.02 3.06 13.22 + New York City 3.41 4.08 4.38 3.44 15.31 + Boston 3.14 3.51 4.15 3.44 14.24 + Washington, D. C. 3.74 4.34 4.98 3.25 16.31 + Philadelphia 3.27 4.14 4.69 3.36 17.46 + +The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation also offer +protection against the extraordinary meteorological occurrences that so +often terrorize the people in more exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau +has no authentic record of a real tornado anywhere in the state of +Washington" says G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. +S. Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. Loss +of life never occurs from any of these causes. The atmosphere is always +pure and salubrious and the death rate is lowest of all states in the +Union, while its two largest cities have the lowest death rate of all +cities in the United States, having a population of 100,000 or over. + +After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend a season +where no dreary winters will engender melancholy while waiting for a +lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat will threaten prostration. +Come to a state that is as free as possible from the ills of unfriendly +phenomena, and where one beautiful day passes into the next as a +pleasant dream shades into the sweetest realities of life. + +[Illustration: YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND. + +A Pleasure Fleet + +Racing for Lipton Cup + +Motor Boating + +Idle Hour + +A Favorable Breeze] + +[Illustration: SCENES AT BREMERTON--ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL +STATIONS. + +The Oregon in Drydock + +A Naval Fleet in Port + +Battleship Nebraska + +Drydock] + + + + +[Illustration: PUGET SOUND + + "A land locked sea with harbors deep and wide + Where all the navies of the world could hide"] + + +One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great inland sea +known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca far into +the interior of the state of Washington. If the Strait mentioned, +together with Hood Canal and a portion of the Strait of Georgia are +included, and they will be in this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of +mirror like surface are encompassed within the green wooded shore lines +of as many lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every +direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, at +other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, and again the +modern cities located upon the shores. + +Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles beckoning +with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas shelter +hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing shore line the "tide +lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and supply a sort of neutral +ground, enjoyed now by the clam diggers or oyster culturists and again +claimed by the enveloping waters. + +Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile lands, which +have been released from their forest burdens, are now devoted to the +pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally to feed the multitudes +dwelling in the neighboring large cities. Here and there patches of +virgin growth in primeval splendor may still be seen, but usually, +excepting in the Hood Canal region, the forests have been forced back to +the foot hills, leaving in their wake the so-called logged-off areas +which are in turn rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further +back to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable +streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, transect the +lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous regions out into +the salts of the deep. + +Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out of the water, +and command the view for miles in every direction. Pictures are +everywhere presented which reproduced on canvass would insure the +immortality of any artist. Altogether the region presents the likeness +of one vast kingly garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured +and all wonders combine to enchant the visitor. + +[Illustration: SUMMER TIME PLEASURES.] + +This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable bulwarks of +mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but is at the very door +of the people and enjoyed by them while going about their daily tasks. +Nearly a million human beings look out upon its placid waters and +rejoice at their good fortune in being permitted to play, as it were, +upon its banks, and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering +breezes that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a +haven in winter--and there is room for ten times as many to make their +homes where these same joys may be experienced. + +Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period required +for the most extravagant display of human skill, was this great pleasure +resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, between the rising of the +waters that "drowned" the rivers once flowing where now the Sound +reposes and the advent of the glaciers which deposited the fertile +sediment to nourish the luxuriant growth appearing on every hand. + +[Illustration: TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR +YARD. + +Photo by Avery and Potter.] + +[Illustration: Bellingham From Sehome Hill + +Skagit River Valley + +Everett Cascade Mountains In Distance + +Berry Patch In The Puyallup Valley + +VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND.] + + +IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING. + +One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing a bit of +rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here safe from the storms +that pound sometimes against the outer coast line; for its waters +compose one great harbor, protected by the forests and mountains. One +may see "Uncle Sam's" powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming +toward Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest dry +dock owned by the U. S. Government is located. + +But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels alone. It +could not have been improved if created especially for the yacht, the +motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome canoe. Upon its +surface is held many a local speed contest, and the annual power boat +race is run from Ketchikan, Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are +ideal for the college regatta and for the difficult feats of the +hydroplane. During festive days many important events are pulled off, +while the happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along +the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above. + +For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages--never +threatened by tempests and always within reach of some of nature's most +glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable for camps are easily +found, from which short inland excursions may be made through alpine +meadows by winding trails to the summit of some mountain or to the +shores of some peaceful lake. + +Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft are not +necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular passenger +steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance make regular trips +throughout the year from every city on its shores to nearly every other +part of the Sound; while special summer time excursions are made from +the metropolitan centers to all the principal points of interest on +Puget Sound and to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska. + + +HOOD CANAL. + +The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains are in the +narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending southwesterly +and bending back into the heart of the Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists +riding over these waters for the first time are elated with the +splendors, and the frequent visitor never tires of the inspiring scenes +that everywhere greet the eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms +and settlements in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge is +at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated ridges are +continually visible from the deck of a passing steamer. Easily +distinguishable also are the deep canyons cut by the several main +streams working their way towards the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs +and creating falls of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the +Dusewallips, the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are some +of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails are familiar to +those making frequent pilgrimages thither. + +[Illustration: A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE--ELLIOTT BAY AND THE +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain summer resort +reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish valley containing the +Indian reservation of the same name. At Union City one may take the +stage over a well traveled road through groves and vales to Shelton, +county seat of Mason county, where regular steamers connect with all +Puget Sound points--thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula. + + +OTHER TRIPS. + +Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main traveled waters +of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia and Shelton, to +Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, Port Townsend, and Port +Angeles; also out to the ocean or through the San Juan Islands to +Victoria and Vancouver in British Columbia. The mountains are always in +sight although not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a +continual procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, +gardens, orchards, green meadows, and summer homes. + +Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a myriad +shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the hovering clouds, +which assume various grotesque shapes above the shimmering waters; and +even at night time when threading the channel marked by the twinkling +beacon lights, or entering the harbor of a city resplendent with +thousands of glittering incandescents. + + +COMMERCE. + +Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many that suggest +the state's commercial importance, for these waters produce many million +dollars worth of fish each year, and the neighboring shores have the +largest saw mills in the world, supplying a big share of the +4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is Washington's annual contribution +and insures her first place in the Union. Out from Bellingham and +Anacortes may be observed the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being +raised, with sometimes 50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their +meshes, soon to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and +shipped to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are +seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes of +manufactured products which for the entire state approaches the +stupendous sum of $300,000,000 yearly. + + +THE EAST SHORES. + +The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east shores, +where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with farms and +gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade Mountains, +comprising five of the most densely populated counties in the state. +Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest cities, Seattle, +Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center of a rich territory +supporting numerous smaller cities. At the southern limit is Olympia, +the state capital. + +Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, +vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which go to support +those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship building, mining, and +other manufacturing industries, and the diversified business pursuits. + +Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost unbroken +string of electric railways render good local service, while excellent +roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross the section and unite +the people with indestructible bonds of friendship and mutual +interests. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Webster & Stevens_ + +A PUGET SOUND SUNSET + + "_When Sol in joy is seen to leave + The earth with crimson beam._"] + +A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other parts of +the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, one of the +grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, forming the eastern +boundary to Seattle, providing sites for country homes and parks, and +embellishing its boulevard system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of +similar importance to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a +number of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma. + + +THE ISLANDS. + +Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the many +enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to Blaine and within +easy reach of the cities located upon its shores. Some are hidden within +partially concealed bays and others appear like portions of the mainland +until circumnavigation has proved their seclusion. Although a few have +sufficient area and commercial importance to form entire counties, the +larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are tiny gems +suitable only for private resorts away from the busy cities. Nearly all +are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled with flowers and ferns, and +girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting the real charms of camp life. + + +SAN JUAN GROUP. + +Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful than the San +Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits of Georgia, rivaling as +they do the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence or the classical Grecian +Archipelago. There are 172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting +their own peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and +shown only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas and +Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are Lummi, Guemes, and +Cypress, similar in formation and of like attractiveness. They are +approachable with almost any kind of craft, no great distances separate +them, and often there is just passage for a steamer. They offer rare +opportunity for playing hide and seek on the water, a game which in days +gone by men played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the +international boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of +safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter. + +[Illustration: THE SUCIA ISLAND + +BATTLESHIP ISLAND + +WALDRON ISLAND + +JAPANESE ISLAND. EAST SOUND + +FIRST IRISHMAN IN AMERICA--BLAKELY ISLAND + +TURTLEBACK MOUNTAIN, ORCAS ISLAND + +AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS. + +Photos by J. A. McCormick.] + +And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! Had it not been +for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in 1871, the Union Jack +instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes might today be floating over +them. The two distinct camps on San Juan Island where the British "Red +Coats" and the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, +are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche Harbor, +and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat. + +The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, Bellingham or +Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns including Friday Harbor, +where the University Marine Station and two large salmon canneries are +located; Roche Harbor, where one of the largest lime kilns is +prospering; and Deer Harbor, West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and +Doebay, attractive as summer resorts. + +Many people spend their summers among these isles. The tourist with +limited time should, besides visiting the historic sites on San Juan, +make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas Island. Two good wagon roads +lead all the way to the top, the one from East Sound and the other from +Olga. A pleasant day's outing is enjoyed by going up one way and +returning by the other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared +with the peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more +comprehensive outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the +"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the beautiful +country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired Seattle ship +builder, who has harnessed the water power from the lakes lying a few +hundred feet above and equipped a modern mansion with all that man can +desire or money and art can supply. Who would guess that a great pipe +organ might be heard in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, +bursting out in unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of +the great composers. + + +WHIDBY ISLAND. + +Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohomish counties, +midway in the Sound where the views of the Cascades and the Olympics are +unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the second largest island in the United +States proper and sometimes called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." +With Camano Island on the east and two other very small ones it +constitutes an independent county. Having much water front and its +western shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are +felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no mountains to +climb, although a number of eminences offer views of the distant +landscape. + +The largest improvement has been near the southern extremity and between +Coupeville and the northern limits, where the world's record for wheat +production per acre was made. A beautiful road decorated with +rhododendrons leads from Fort Casey to Deception Pass separating it from +Fidalgo Island on the north, which is connected with the mainland by a +first class highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer +Chautauquas are held and many campers congregate. + + +OTHER ISLANDS. + +A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, having forty +miles of water front lined with summer homes or suitable for camping +sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma are Vashon and Maury +Islands, practically one, comprising some twenty-three thousand acres, +which yield for these cities berries, fruits, vegetables, and flowers, +and offer some of the most delightful sites for homes along their fifty +miles of attractive shore line. + +Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of the Bay Island +country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and offering unlimited +opportunities for campers who are always welcomed by the hospitable +ranchers. Hartstine Island maintains one of the largest vineyards in the +west, yielding delicious grapes which find their way to distant eastern +markets. Numerous smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and +insure pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life. + +[Illustration: MT. OLYMPUS + +FALLS + +BRIDAL VEIL FALLS + +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS FROM HOOD CANAL + +WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS.] + + +OLYMPIC PENINSULA. + +Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and extending from the +Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the Chehalis river valley is the +vast Olympic Peninsula, whose resources and wonders are probably less +known than almost any other section of the world. The central portion +constitutes one great forest reserve within which is the Olympic +National Monument set apart by the government for the enjoyment of +nature lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns +situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monument +contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, the most +turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state. + +The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automobile. Highways +lead well up into the foothills from the cities of Port Angeles, Sequim, +Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal +points, and passable trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It +is easy to surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the +approach of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous +colors which make the region famous for its beauty. + +It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of choicest +timber remain uncut; valuable ore veins and a vast lake of petroleum are +buried within its depths; land well suited for agriculture girdles the +entire peninsula; and the neighboring waters yield liberal quantities of +fish. + +Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supplemented with the +conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. Among these are Sol Duc +Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol Duc river, where a little palace +has been lifted into the mountains, Government Hot Springs, and Lake +Crescent, all reached from Port Angeles; Lake Cushman, approached from +Hoodsport; and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to any of +these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy the most +extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer. + +[Illustration: LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE HARBOR COUNTRY + + "We stand on beetling crag or cliff and gaze from farthest west + To the bounding ocean billows, to the broad free sea, + We hail the flags of all the earth and welcome here to rest + Amidst the smiling waters by the tall fir tree."] + + +Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the "Harbor Country," +the only part of the state where almost simultaneously one may enjoy the +rare combination of the unobstructed ocean, an inland sea, and trout +streams lined with giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon +the dominions of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab +seemingly try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding +splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to the +remarkable competition. + +Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this section, at +least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon another variety +of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and experience again the +pleasure of riding through a valley that appeals alike to the Pullman +passenger and to the automobilist; for it is human nature to love a +change, even if one's home environment approaches perfection itself. + +There are two important salt water harbors in southwest Washington, the +more northerly one in Chehalis county, and named Grays Harbor after the +great explorer who discovered it in 1792, and the southern one in +Pacific county bearing an Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated +by only a few miles of territory, which is served by no railroad other +than a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by +Centralia, excepting that during the summer months auto stages traverse +the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland; for the beach here is level and +broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the tide has receded, that it +is used as a highway, and even as a race track for automobiles and +motorcycles. This is true not only of the portion lying between the +two harbors but also of the twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" +extending from Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia. + +[Illustration: ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY. + +Copyright by Asahel Curtis.] + +The entire region is fraught with charms that can be duplicated nowhere +else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are patronized especially by +people from the Sound cities and from southwest Washington. North Beach +to the south of Willapa Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and +other Oregon cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are +numerous, when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity of +visiting the seashore. + +[Illustration: POINT GRENVILLE.] + +The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bathing in the surf or +burrowing in the warm sands; hunting for shells, agates, and Indian +relics; rowing, and trolling for salmon; or searching for the rare +floral specimens abounding in the neighboring woods occupy the time of +many. Others enjoy visiting the canneries, observing the motor races, or +watching the sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into +the harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by some +fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam bakes and, at the +end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach parties and the story +telling, after which one is lulled into sweet slumber by the unceasing +roar of the ocean surf. + +So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach will +undoubtedly in time be ornate with one continuous array of summer +resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the mouth of the +Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the Straits, and interrupted +only by the narrow gaps marking the entrances to the two harbors. Every +manner of dwelling is provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. +Cottages may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one +of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea. + + +GRAYS HARBOR. + +To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the ocean, means a trip +through the wide fertile valley of the Chehalis river, either by auto or +over one of the three transcontinental railroads that serve it. The +entire journey presents a panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream +itself is conspicuous, tracing the valley's boundary on one side and +again on the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the +sea. Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still marked +by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its banks, and again by +some rustic bridge where the highway crosses. + +[Illustration: SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR.] + +More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens and the harbor +is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including Oakville, noted for large +shipments of cascara bark; Elma, an industrial center; and Montesano, +the county seat and head of river navigation. Green meadows, wooded +slopes, and cultivated farms on both sides of the river absorb the +attention until Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, +are reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth within +the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have now a combined +population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the census returns of 1900. +Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain the homes of some of the +wealthiest men in the state. + +[Illustration: MT. ST. HELENS AND SPIRIT LAKE + +SMELT FISHING ON THE COWLITZ + +AT THE OCEAN BEACH + +THE KALAMA RIVER + +A LOAD OF OYSTERS--WILLAPA HARBOR + +WHALING STATION ON GRAYS HARBOR + +SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS.] + +Such development has been due largely to the importance of the lumber +industry which in this section of the state has assumed large +proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious yards, and the huge +vessels loading for foreign ports are common sights within the cities. +Farther away in the logging camps the agility of the lumberjack is +exhibited as he lays low the giants of the forest and trims the logs +ready for the mills. + +The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking a ride upon its +waters. Regular steamers make the round trip each day, stopping at many +points of interest, both in the north and the south bay, including the +North Jetty under construction by the United States government, +Westport, where the life saving station and the wireless telegraph +station are located, and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations +in the northwest. On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be +seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and visit +Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes that engage +the evenings of the summer dwellers. + +Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts near the +terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits; while those +desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable excursions into the +wild Olympic region, exploring the forested hills, visiting the oil +prospects, or hunting and fishing. + +Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis county alone +are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which passes near +interesting scenes. One road extends to the south of the harbor and +another to the beach resorts at the north. The Olympic Highway, one of +the state primary highways, leads east to the Sound country, and +northward up the Humptulips Valley, through the big timber to Lake +Quiniault, located in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the +Quiniault Indian Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the +people living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should plan +their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault River in Indian +canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this way from Mount Olympus in +1913, pronounced it the best part of the entire outing: + +"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties and +experiences beggars description--the swift current, the whirling eddies, +the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into the air to catch the +flying insects, the banks clothed with magnificent forests, log jams +through which or under which we passed, animated branches marking the +rhythmic motion of the current, the floating canoes gliding into the +deeper, darker water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever +on to the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through +the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next test of +skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating bits of +history or legends which explained names or some natural phenomenon. The +boom of the surf announced the end of the journey. As the Mountaineers +left the canoes on the beach at Taholah, it was agreed that the trip +down the Quiniault marked the red-letter day of the 1913 outing." + + +WILLAPA BAY. + +[Illustration: TWO PATRIARCHS--ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE.] + +The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, composed of two +sections, one extending southward and separated from the ocean by a long +narrow peninsula, nowhere more than two miles in width, and the other +reaching eastward to South Bend and Raymond. Into it flows Willapa +river, besides other short but swift mountain streams teeming with trout +and other game fish. The bar is about a mile wide and the waters +covering it 28 1/2 feet deep at low tide, thus enabling sea-going +vessels to cross without the aid of tugs--a great advantage to ocean +liners and big lumber schooners, which may be seen almost any day either +lying at the docks or loaded to the gunwale passing out to sea. + +The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Columbia River. +People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam plans to dig a canal +through this narrow strip so that vessels may enter the river by way of +Willapa Bay and avoid the Columbia bar, kept open by jetties built at +enormous expense. + +[Illustration: SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples of what +lumbering and fishing have done for Washington municipalities. Where a +few years ago was nothing but a wilderness, known only to the Indians or +an occasional fisherman, are now busy marts with extensive waterfront +factory sites. Pretty roads start from these cities and wind along the +harbor front or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made +to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing stations. Crab +and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen here to advantage, +Tokeland being the place where eastern oysters were first transplanted +for mercantile purposes. + +South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the North Beach +ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view of the bay, and the +ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, +all passengers are transferred to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for +Ilwaco and Megler, whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train +makes frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive summer +cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly visible on the right. + +Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula is the quaint +town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. Near by are the most +extensive cranberry marshes in the state. Another attraction is "North +Head," most southwesterly point in the state of Washington, where an +unobstructed view of the ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen +the waters of the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in +Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, the +wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of sea lions are +usually sunning themselves. + +Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River may be chosen +to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be quickly reached by the +Pacific Highway or by rail. Every tourist should make at least one visit +to the Harbor Country and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the +state. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE + +"_Owning no mightier but the King of kings_" + +_Copyright by Curtis & Miller_] + + + + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK + + "What vastness and sublimity + Were spread before our eager gaze! + What wild and varied scenery! + What pictures for the poets lays!"] + + +One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding promontory +nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a panoramic view most +wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the sun's warm rays were +unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure as the nectar of heaven. Only +five hours before I had left the city of Tacoma and a little earlier +Seattle--two great cities throbbing with the activities of nearly a half +million people engaged in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits. + +Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the green +valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay--the nearest only forty +miles distant by an air line, close to the waters of Puget Sound. Yet +here, almost in sight of them, I was enjoying a quietude known only to +the haunts of nature. More than seven thousand feet above me towered the +majestic dome of the second highest pinnacle in the United States, +reserving observation to the north until its summit should be reached, +while far toward the east and the south extended range upon range of +mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered around their chief. Here +and there among them appeared the sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in +Washington; and Hood, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in +Oregon. Between their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep +canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state. + +Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way down the +mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged ridges. Between them +and below were spread the meadowed alpine parks or abandoned +cirques--veritable fairylands--which had been carved out by these +superhuman agencies eons before. Barely distinguishable was the road by +which I had made the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across +the face of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams +glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the +profound hollows formed by the extending hills. + +The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of themselves worth +the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen to Ashford where +each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving Tacoma, the highway threads +a picturesque gravelly prairie for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful +canyon road, crosses the Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the +Nisqually Canyon a thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin +forests, reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually +Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be continued +afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage. + +This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. Perhaps no +other area in the world brings so many and such varied natural wonders +to the very doors of two great cities. It contains a total of 207,360 +acres, or 324 square miles, of which 100 square miles is occupied by +Mount Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently +directly from sea level, and visible from almost every point in the +state. + +No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists than this mighty +pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial area, no less than 45 +square miles in extent, exceeds that of any other peak in the United +States. One of the most interesting glaciers is Carbon on the north +slope, reaching down to a lower elevation than any other; the most +readily reached is the Nisqually, five miles in length; and the largest +is the White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, +Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, North and South +Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important secondary glaciers are Van +Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Paradise, and Interglacier. + +[Illustration: PARADISE PARK + +ON THE WAY DOWN + +AVALANCHE LILIES + +THE ASCENT + +IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.] + +The summit may be reached by five different routes. These are the +Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, Ptarmigan Ridge, and +Emmon's or the White Glacier route. The Paradise Valley (known also as +the "Gibraltar") route, on the south side, is by far the most popular, +for it is well provided with hotel accommodations, and both the +government road and Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the +Clouds, at the mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village +at midnight, arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about +5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the mountain, at about +11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see more than a hundred +miles in every direction, far away to the ocean on the west and into the +great Inland Empire on the east. The snow-capped peaks already noted are +seen toward the south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, +Shuksan, Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north; while the Mother, the +Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range near by seem +like mere foothills, between eight and nine thousand feet below. No +grander or more inspiring view may be observed anywhere in the world. + +Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a few, and +always with the aid of an experienced guide. The largest measure of real +joy is found in the alpine "parks." The best known and most frequented +is along the Paradise River. Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, +are Indian Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others +requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest and most +beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews and Grand Parks. + +Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural amphitheaters +present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any underbrush exists in them but +many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and trees abound; three hundred distinct +plants are said to exist; pretty lakelets gem their surface; and all are +drained by trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing +waterfalls of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting glaciers +to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, lead to every +point of interest and extend clear around the mountain. Camping places +are plentiful or accommodations may be obtained at comfortable hotels. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER--LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER + + "Or lose thyself in the continuous woods + Where rolls the Oregon."] + + +This wonderful and majestic river whose history is enhanced with legend, +offers the exploring tourist or curious sight-seer unusual opportunities +to indulge his unbounded imagination and to satisfy his desire for the +spectacular in nature. Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest +importance in northwest history, while interwoven with the +incontrovertible happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. +Overlooking its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific +northwest, upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its +persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous cities of +the country. + +One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with many important +tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five times the area of the +state of Washington. By a series of cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold +turns, it flows nearly 1,400 miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, +before finally delivering the waters gathered from many sources to the +great Pacific ocean. + +Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast expenditures to +increase its value as a navigable stream. Near Stevenson the government +has built locks at a cost of several million dollars, enabling large +vessels to reach The Dalles, at present the head of navigation. At +Celilo, two hundred miles from its mouth, where, in twelve miles +distance, the river falls eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are +being constructed. When these are completed, merchant vessels can go +direct from the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four +hundred miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in +places by rapids and falls. + +[Illustration: INDIAN CANOE RACE.] + +Important as this river is from a commercial and geographic standpoint, +the greatest interest by far centers in the phenomena that are of its +own creation, visible every mile from its mouth to its source. A journey +upon its surface rivals one along the historic Rhine, the picturesque +Hudson, or the beautiful St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the +wilder grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the earth +and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and describe these ever +so briefly would require an entire volume. This short chapter is a +suggestion only that "By reason of scenic grandeur, absorbing interest +of physical features, the majesty and mystery of its flow through some +of the wildest as well as some of the most beautiful regions of the +globe, and at the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the +greatest of the oceans, this 'Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike +historian, scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature." + +In many places the natural appearances are the same now as when Gray, +Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the Northwest and Hudson's Bay +Company men first viewed its banks, with the exception that the shores +have in places been denuded of their largest timber and either a younger +growth has inherited the dominion or portions have been claimed for the +agriculturist. + +[Illustration: "BRIDGE OF THE GODS" + +CASTLE ROCK + +CAPE HORN AND CIGAR ROCK + +PACIFIC OCEAN FROM CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT LIGHT + +ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.] + +Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, "chugging" away +from their moorings in the early dawn and returning at the setting of +the sun heavily laden with the famous Columbia river salmon that feed +thousands throughout the world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which +there are many in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are +conspicuous and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the products +of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but far from the +sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the same waters that +conceal the treasures being sought. + +Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washington side and in +Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River is reached, one will have +passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, +Stevenson, White Salmon, and Wallula on the Washington side, besides +many important cities on the Oregon shores: namely, Astoria, the site of +the first settlement on the Columbia; Portland, the largest city in +Oregon, near the mouth of the Willamette; and The Dalles, for many years +the head of navigation. Kennewick and Pasco are located just beyond the +mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive full benefit from the improved +navigation conditions of the future. Between these larger towns is many +a tiny hamlet, while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty +dwellings slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler +dissatisfied with his own home. + +At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of wonderful +basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure of many tints. +Further away a murmuring brook or crystal streamlet may be heard +hurrying down a rocky hillside or winding between towering cliffs, +adding its share to the tuneful sound of the powerful orchestra that +seems everywhere to be heard. Constantly shifting color and shade +attract the eye and tones of varying quality please the ear. + +When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, stretching toward +the north, broad areas where man has mingled his skill with Nature's +works. Green fields, sometimes fringed with willows, near the +waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm houses, and dairies, are +visible as far as the eye can see. These evidences of man's +encroachments are noted all the way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which +city, the oldest in the state, a tourist should linger long enough to +appreciate the region which arrested the attention of our earliest +settlers and inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A +bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it with +the beautiful city of Portland. + +[Illustration: READY FOR MARKET + +SALMON FISHER'S RETREAT--MOUTH OF COLUMBIA + +50,000 AT THE CANNERY + +"LIFTING THE BRAIL", PUGET SOUND + +THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.] + +Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is ascended, until +the mountainous region is reached and the roar of the cascades is +distinctly heard. These cascades, according to Indian lore, were created +by the falling of the "Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from +shore to shore and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on +the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a mighty river +peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular buttresses +on either hand, the forest areas that apparently fell from above, trees +growing out of the water, petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within +the vicinity of Stevenson, and many other freaks of nature all seem to +strengthen the evidence on which this story is based. + +Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples of Nature's +diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle Rock, or +Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 feet high; St. +Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, considered one of the +wonders of the American continent; Oneonta Gorge, almost concealed +behind towering rocks; Multnomah Falls, a matchless waterfall with a +sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster +Rock, unsurpassed for beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape +Eternity, a massive precipice 1,000 feet in height. + +Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates climbing +some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over the wooded river banks +and visiting the rustic towns that lie at the foot of the mountains and +guard the gateway to the alluring valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat +of Skamania county, overlooking the cascade locks, and Carson, are +several hot springs where accommodations for the most particular are +available. From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its +source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. forest +nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the Government Hot +Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for climbing, offer expansive +views of the surrounding country. + +[Illustration: THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON. + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley takes one to +Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves in the foothills of +Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, a pow-wow place for the +Indians. On the way, hundreds of scientifically developed orchards, and +oat fields yielding over 100 bushels to the acre, are passed; also the +Northwest Electric Company's power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse +power, supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the +massive bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending color +may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia River and +the mountains to the east and the west, while the entire Hood River +Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is visible on the Oregon side. + +The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River is a journey +of surprises. The railroad follows the winding canyon past pretty +waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and emerges finally into a wide, +fertile plain overlooking the Columbia basin. Fields of waving grain and +other products exhibit the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those +desiring can motor from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to +the Columbia via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 +road across his 6,000-acre farm. + +Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before being joined +by the Snake River, it has drained a region noted for agricultural +superiority and contributed liberally to the needs of irrigation. The +"Big Bend" on the left, and the valleys watered by its tributaries from +the right, are described under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire." + +Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder scenes +are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, native trees +more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course of the stream more +winding. Startling phenomena appear in rapid succession, and scenes +unimagined will astonish the tourist who spends a little time in +re-exploring this great river, for ages a prize eagerly sought by the +searchers for the unknown. + +[Illustration: ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE INLAND EMPIRE + + "See Pan with flocks with fruits Pomona crowned: + Here blushing flora paints the enameled ground; + Here Ceres' gifts in waving prospect stand, + And nodding, tempt the joyful reapers hand."] + + +Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between the +Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland sea--the waters left +imprisoned when the ocean had receded. After many ages these pent up +waters burst the restraining barriers and forced their way to the ocean, +creating the deep canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad +plain, now known as the Inland Empire. + +What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed into a +"Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one of the bountiful "bread +baskets of the world" while its valleys yield generously of nearly all +the products of husbandry. Near its borders the mountains, with their +retinue of trees, flowers and grassy meadows, reach as far as the +invisible power permits and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, +to wind through and through and distribute the welcome waters that +enkindle the irrigated districts with life and activity. + +Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this wonderful plain, +but the brief description contemplated in these few pages must be +confined chiefly to Washington. The curious sight-seer or the serious +homeseeker can well afford to spend many days exploring this region, +marveling at both the mighty forces of creation and the embellishments +of man. Under far more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now +than when the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. +Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus Whitman, +supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable courage with the trusty +saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner or the rude river raft. Today +the palatial cars of four transcontinental lines make daily trips +across the state; branch lines accommodate the territory north and +south; and parts not reached by rail are served by well constructed +thorofares. + + +CHIEF FEATURES. + +In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important features are +the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan region; the Okanogan +Highlands with the valleys of the Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville +and Pend Oreille; the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake +River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their "coulees"; and +the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low bare ridges of a +semi-mountainous character which relieve the prairie effect and permit +cycloramic views of the surrounding territory. Among these are the +Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while +a number of spurs from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, +help form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain. + + +HOW TO REACH THEM. + +These different sections may be easily reached from almost any city in +the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can make a quick yet +comprehensive survey of eastern Washington in two ways. After seeing the +immediate Spokane vicinity and visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the +north, either automobiles or Great Northern trains will convey them up +the Colville Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, +whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and down the San +Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, whence the +journey may be continued to Wenatchee down the Okanogan Valley, both by +auto and rail. Side trips may be taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake +Chelan canyon, as well as to numerous other places of interest. From +Wenatchee the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures an +interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of the Big +Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by making a tour +through the Palouse to the Snake River and Walla Walla country. +Transportation leads from there direct to the Columbia River, and the +Yakima and Kittitas valleys. The Horse Heaven may be reached from +Kennewick and Pasco, or from Prosser. + +[Illustration: _Copyright by Asahel Curtis_ + +SUNNYSIDE CANAL--MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE + + "_And the old wilderness is changed + To cultured vale and hill_"] + +The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the Palouse, Snake +River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas valleys, from Ellensburg a +scenic overland route may be taken direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop +may be made to include Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big +Bend and the Spokane Country. + + +THE YAKIMA VALLEY. + +Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich territory +tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes Keechelus and +Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the Columbia--a total distance +of nearly 175 miles with a range of altitude, at the water's edge, +varying from 2,250 down to 340 feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima +Valley proper, the Kittitas and a number of minor valleys, including the +Naches, the Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and +the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just south of +"Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are located, two enterprising +cities, vieing for supremacy over the rich south half of Yakima county. +Further south is Prosser, county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is +North Yakima with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region +and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, is +Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima county +constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima Tribes dwell +peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the soil and occasionally +entertaining the people with many a "Round Up," or Wild West Show. At +Fort Simcoe is their school, deserving of a visit from anyone +interested. + +[Illustration: THE YAKIMA VALLEY--MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and bunch grass, +is irrigable land enough to support a population of a million people; +for the total water capacity as surveyed by the United States Government +is estimated at 927,000 acre feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. +Less than a third of this is at present cultivated and watered from +small canals, built by private capital, and from the two largest ones in +the state, constructed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter +are the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the +Sunnyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres. + +A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima river unfolds a +panorama of unusual breadth and interest. Instead of the heavy forests +of the west side, the sage brush struggles for existence just above the +main ditches; but the country below is checkered with orchards, farms, +and gardens; and cotton woods protect the banks of the streams. +Impressive is the sight in springtime when fruit trees are all in bloom +and the Blossom Festival, participated in by a hundred-thousand people, +is ushering in the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches +of color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester. + +[Illustration: A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.] + +From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most perfect +form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, vegetable +gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected and +crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and rivers, protected by +the brown hills near by and watched over by the mountains in the +distance, supply composition for pictures that in detail and variety +must discourage all competition. + + +THE WENATCHEE VALLEY. + +Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee Valley, +reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot hills of the Cascades. +This, too, was a desolate brown slope until the effects of irrigation +were felt on its rich volcanic ash soil. After that only ten years were +necessary to convert it into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of +the forlorn looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the +valley and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of +blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. +Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens below, +are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters that irrigate the +land; while dodging from one side of the vale to the other, or +paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the Wenatchee river hastens +onward towards the Columbia. + +The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered hills, spurs of +the Cascades, over which many trails lead to charming mountain lakes and +streams, where summer homes are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. +The east opens up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the +Columbia River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in +all the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in the +vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported in affluence by +successful fruit culture or gardening. + +Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including Wenatchee, +the metropolis of north central Washington, with a population of about +5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth +near the head of the valley; and Cashmere, midway between the two. The +pervading spirit is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee +red apple is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 +annually. + + +LAKE CHELAN. + +Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest sheets of +fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American continent. It is one +of a number of beautiful lakes found throughout the highlands in the +vicinity of the upper Columbia, but on account of its thrilling beauty +and easy approach has become one of the favorite resorts for the entire +northwest. + +It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes from the +Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. River boats, automobile +stages, or Great Northern trains allow three principal modes of +transportation, each of which reveals different scenes of interest. +During summer months the overland trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant +and presents the fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The +return might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the +Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course of four +miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower. + +[Illustration: THE WENATCHEE VALLEY--NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Columbia, +and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan canyon reaches in places +nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 +feet below the surface. Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to +Stehekin, views are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color +blending are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the +traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness of the +whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy with +divine nature. Among features of striking scenic importance are Railroad +Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 miles, the Stehekin River, and +Rainbow Falls. + + +THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS. + +This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating with +fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open forests of +spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the homeseeker, pleasure +for the sportsman, and continuous scenes of interest for the tourist are +suggested. Here one can yet feel the presence of the true western spirit +of frontiership, for this part of the state was the last to be thrown +open to settlers; and the Indians are still in full possession of the +Colville Indian reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the +south central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river to +the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the valleys yield +liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, and the higher lands +are devoted to grain and stock raising. Lumbering plays its part and +mining for precious metals assumes greater importance than elsewhere in +the state. + +[Illustration: SIMILKAMEEN RIVER NEAR OROVILLE + +FARM SCENE IN THE METHOW + +PATTERSON LAKE + +METHOW VALLEY + +FORT OKANOGAN--FIRST WHITE SETTLEMENT IN WASHINGTON + +ORCHARDS IN THE OKANOGAN VALLEY + +THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.] + +The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and the +Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil and the Methow +are dependent on highway conveyances. Of extreme interest is the ride +from Spokane up the Colville and Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with +a short side trip to Republic, the leading gold producing city in the +state. The railroad crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing +the unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion of King +George of England and the next back under the Stars and Stripes. +Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque canyons are +invaded before arriving at the heights from which Oroville appears far +below--requiring an hour for the train to descend by a series of +remarkable switchbacks. + +[Illustration: COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.] + +Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in their infancy, +for its development has been so recent; but therein lies much of its +charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading city is Newport, the +county seat, prettily located on both sides of the river, half in Idaho +and half in Washington. In Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, +and Colville, the largest city in the region, with a population of over +1,500 people. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's +Indian Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other +interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties. + +[Illustration: WINESAP TREE + +FIRST WATER ON THE LAND + +A VINEYARD + +PRUNE ORCHARD IN BLOOM + +IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.] + +[Illustration: THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK--MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE +DISTANCE. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + + +THE SPOKANE COUNTRY. + +From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire are easily +reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city and two others +operate trains; while a network of electric lines serves the immediate +vicinity, penetrating the territory as far south as Colfax, Palouse, and +Moscow; southwest to Medical Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden +Lake and Coeur d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic +sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each mode of +transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills nearest Spokane +are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther away are forests of +pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing many lakes teeming with trout +and black bass. Within a radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain +lakes, thirty-eight of which are ideally located and supplied with all +necessary equipment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second +largest fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden +Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National Forest +Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; Liberty Lake, +seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; Spirit Lake, +forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; and Twin Lakes, +thirty-three miles. + +The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. They are +neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and Olympics, but they +are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak in eastern Washington is +Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty miles northeast of the city. From its +summit one may look out into the three northwestern states of Oregon, +Idaho and Washington, and into the province of British Columbia; and +count seventeen different lakes and rivers. + +Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the +Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root mountains are +approached on the east. The roads westward and southward lead past well +cultivated gardens, green meadows and groves, until finally is spread +before one a sea of grain--continuous wheat fields--the Big Bend to the +west and the Palouse to the south. + +[Illustration: WHEAT RANCH + +HARVESTING + +SEEDING + +INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.] + +Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable roads in +America on account of the high class material of which it is +constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses the state of Idaho and +connects with roads leading to the National Parks in Montana. This +valley more than thirty miles in length, with an average width of eight +miles, comprises a level irrigated country cut up into intensive garden +and orchard tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising +apples, pears, cherries, small fruits, garden truck, poultry, and live +stock. The advantages of abundant water power, proximity to a great +city, rapid transit facilities, and a healthful climate, are quickly +transforming the region into one of attractive suburban homes. + +[Illustration: METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.] + +The Spokane River drops 1,280 feet in a distance of 100 miles, and 130 +feet within the city limits, falling precipitously 70 feet in the heart +of the business section, over a dam 200 feet wide. On both sides is +built the city sloping towards its waters and overlooking the country +beyond. Extensive economic developments are taking place, there being +seven distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly +$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power plants, +manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. Historical +events are associated with Fort George Wright, named for a famous Indian +fighter; Indian Canyon, tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane, +a pow-wow place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first +government Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early fur +traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle. + +[Illustration: A FAMOUS 600 ACRE ORCHARD + +PALOUSE FALLS 198 FEET + +WHITMAN'S MONUMENT + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS AN HOURS RIDE + +126 BOXES A YEAR + +SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.] + + +THE WHEAT PLATEAU. + +The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big bend of the +Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which stretches eastward until +it blends with the rolling Palouse, one of the richest farm regions in +the northwest, and southeast across the Snake River to the Blue +Mountains; although considerable wheat is raised in the country lying +between the Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties +to the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the waving +heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the horizon. The +combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, is a familiar example of +the immensity of the machinery needed when gathering the mammoth crop, +which for the entire state is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels +annually. + +The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" or old river courses, +sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is practiced and +where strings of small alkali lakes have been scattered. Two of the most +important are Moses Coulee in Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming +the boundary line between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old +bed of the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the Quincy +Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land to be some day +irrigated by water conducted under the Columbia river from Wenatchee +Lake in Chelan county. + +The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, Moses Lake, +near which irrigation from wells is successfully carried on, and Rock +Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the Palouse. The most important +river is the Palouse which creates the Palouse Falls just before joining +the Snake River. Near this stream are several prosperous cities, +including Colfax, Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College +and Experiment Station. + + +THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY. + +The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a canyon of +1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a natural dividing line +between Whitman and Franklin counties on the north, and Walla Walla, +Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the south. Its warm canyon is famous +for early fruits and berries which are shipped in carloads to eastern +and western points. + +Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all four counties to +the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally by orchards which assume +their greatest proportions in the beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla +valleys. Over this rich country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns +supreme, her authority being limited only by the Columbia and Snake +rivers, or the Blue Mountains; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy and +Clarkston are important centers in their own districts. + +Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wallula, the +site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla Walla. When +once seen, no words are needed to tell why these lovely plains, all +ready for the planting and moistened with sufficient rainfall annually, +were so attractive to the early settlers, and inspired the first serious +efforts at colonization. + + +THE COLUMBIA RIVER. + +All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through the Columbia +river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fraternity. The +grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the region, it supplies +unlimited water for successful irrigation and power purposes, and in +places still provides the principal mode of transportation. Between +Kettle Falls and the Snake river are a number of important rapids, chief +of which is Priest Rapids, just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a +descent of seventy feet and a possible horse power of half a million. + +Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of Kennewick and +Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to the sea as soon as the +Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest elevation in the Inland Empire +and surrounded by a large area of irrigable land, they are served by +three transcontinental railroads, permitting rapid transit to any part +of the northwest. + +[Illustration: PRIEST RAPIDS--SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND + +"_The river rolled in cataract through the cañon_"] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR SCENIC HIGHWAYS + + "They build and toil, each road a nervous wedge + To hew a way where seats of empire wait."] + + +The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of roads which, +finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineering and commercial +importance the French highways, and in scenic grandeur the mountain +passes of Switzerland. Easy approaches are being constructed to every +town and hamlet and into every farming community. So vigorously has the +work been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, except +Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its mountain +recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles have been already +completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth of broad thorofares, +boulevards, and country highways. The most important highways built and +maintained at state expense are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland +Empire, the Olympic and the National Park. + + +THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY. + +The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the state of +California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven miles north of +Washington's boundary line, a total distance of about two thousand +miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is within the state of Washington, +connecting Vancouver on the Columbia with Blaine at the international +line. It traverses nine counties of Washington, containing forty-eight +per cent of the wealth and fifty-five per cent of the population, and +passes through nine county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, +Vancouver, Kalama. Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and +Bellingham. + +[Illustration: PACIFIC HIGHWAY + +NATIONAL PARK HIGHWAY WILLAPA HARBOR + +STATE ROAD ALONG THE METHOW + +RAINIER NATIONAL PARK ROAD + +SUNSET BOULEVARD NEAR SPOKANE + +ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS.] + +From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward through the +prune and plum orchards of Clarke county, where more of these trees grow +than in all other parts of the state combined. Along the banks of the +historic Columbia and through the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it +winds toward Kelso, famous for smelt fisheries; and Castle Rock, the +gateway to Mount St. Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north +fork of the picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley +is followed to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly growing +railroad centers having a combined population of 15,500 people. Groves, +orchards, gardens and prairies line the smooth gravelly road from here +to Olympia, where the first view of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire +to swerve off toward Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly +completed Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, +is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins and +draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. Rising above the +famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to cross the oak moor lands +marking the beginning of Tacoma's playgrounds and reminding one of +southern England, the road soon enters Tacoma, third city in population +in the state. + +Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, touching +at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; at Auburn and Kent, +centers of a rich dairy section; and at Renton, bristling with +manufacturing importance near the southern end of beautiful Lake +Washington. A dozen miles more and you are on the streets of Seattle, +metropolis of the northwest and third city in size west of the Rocky +Mountains. + +Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds along by Lake +Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty lakes, entering green +woods, intersecting meadows, crossing streamlets, rising to sightly +plateaus and descending again to peaceful valleys before it reaches +Everett, a city of 32,000, located on an eminence overlooking the waters +of the Sound. + +The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway skirts the +Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish river in the +Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic road branches off to +Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Burlington, where it intersects the +Skagit county road leading from Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one +may appreciate the famous Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," +where 173 bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land +protected from the sea and river by immense dykes. + +Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is reached, said to +be the most picturesque on the entire route: for the Sound is plainly +seen from the shaded highway which clings to the side of Chuckanut +Mountain, while the electric interurban and the Great Northern railway +traverse the waterfront below. Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has +innumerable attractions to hold the tourist, who still has twenty miles' +journey if he would follow the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit +at Blaine, the most northwesterly municipality in the United States. +Near by is the Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the +northwest; where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland. + + +SUNSET HIGHWAY. + +The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting through +automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and connecting the +western with the eastern counties. Throughout its full four hundred +miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces the tourist to scenes which +for diversity and pleasant surprises, varying from rugged mountains and +roaring waterfalls to peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, +can nowhere be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades +are never more than five per cent. + +Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises northeastward +to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just below the town of +Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the same name, the "Niagara of +the West." This immense stream of water falling 268 feet, is now +harnessed to supply power and light to the cities and towns of Puget +Sound. Following the banks of this river the highway penetrates +entrancing forests and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and +river are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains +puffing towards the summit. + +[Illustration: SHOWING THE CAPITAL MT. RAINIER IN THE DISTANCE + +A TRAIL + +TUMWATER FALLS + +PUGET SOUND FROM PRIEST POINT PARK + +AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY.] + +Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of the Yakima, +and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake Keechelus, where the +government is building a huge dam for storing water to irrigate the +Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Passing the southern extremity of Lake +Kachees, another deep mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal +shipping center, enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the +cultured city of Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of +the state normals. + +The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a 5,200-foot pass, +permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier and Hood. The banks of +the Columbia are followed to Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central +Washington and the famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it +proceeds along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a +winding canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big +Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Waterville, the +county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly eastward to continue in +an almost unbroken line through expansive wheat fields towards Spokane, +the metropolitan city of the Inland Empire, over a hundred miles away. + +At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth while to +linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to be the old bed +of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has attracted attention +from geographers of international reputation. Wilbur, Davenport, the +county seat of Lincoln county, and Reardan, besides many smaller +settlements, almost lost in the midst of the great wheat fields, appear +before the thin woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached. + + +INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY. + +At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the Inland Empire Road, a +southern route to Spokane via Walla Walla. Following the Wenas Valley to +North Yakima, it continues southeast through the Union Gap and along the +Sunnyside Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a +splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance appears. +From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and entrance to the Horse +Heaven country, the road drops toward the Columbia river and soon +reaches Kennewick, the home of early strawberries, and Pasco, county +seat of Franklin county. + +[Illustration: LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST +CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + +From here the Central Washington Highway threads the extensive wheat +fields toward the northeast, passing through Connell, Lind, Ritzville, +and Sprague, all important wheat shipping centers; and Cheney, the site +of another state normal, fifteen miles southwest from the city of +Spokane. + +The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city of Walla Walla; +but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Columbia county, it divides, +uniting again near Rosalia, twenty-five miles south of Spokane. The +shorter route trends northeast, crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes +through Colfax, county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse +Valley. The other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, +enters Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the +eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending northward +it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields; enters Pullman, home of +the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakesdale; joins the other +branch at the county boundary line and soon reaches the southern +outskirts of Spokane. + +[Illustration: INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA.] + +From Spokane this road presses northward through the Colville Valley to +the Columbia, and thence to the international boundary line, having +previously passed at Deer Park the Arcadia orchard, largest commercial +apple orchard in the world; Loon Lake, a summer resort; Chewelah, a +mining town surrounded by a dairying country; and Colville, county seat +of Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant contrast +is this northern extension, regaining the mountains and evergreen +forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious waterfalls, and the +chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and green meadows. + + +OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS. + +The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel to Lake +Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, will form a +complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from which it derives its +name. Winding along at the foot of the mountains, it connects the +leading cities of the district and exposes some of the most scenic +features of the Sound country, including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan +de Fuca, Grays Harbor, and occasionally the Pacific Ocean. The principal +cities touched at are Shelton, Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Hoquiam, +Aberdeen, Elma and Olympia. + +[Illustration: ANACORTES ROAD.] + +The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rainier National Park, +whence it bears southward to the headwaters of the Cowlitz, crosses to +the Chehalis Valley and, after connecting with Chehalis and Centralia, +leads southwest, over the low coast range to Raymond and South Bend on +Willapa Bay, and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia. + +Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade mountains. Two are +nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass Highway, paralleling the +Sunset as far as North Yakima, and one along the north bank of the +Columbia. A third will sometime cross and connect the Skagit Valley with +the Methow. + +[Illustration: WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.] + + + + +[Illustration: A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE + + "The antlered monarch of the waste + Sprang from his heathery couch in haste"] + + +This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of approval from the +followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs are devoted to the +opportunities for the chase and the plentifulness of game fish and +birds. Of course, the real sportsman would rather discover the prey for +himself. To tell minutely where every prize is to be found would be like +disclosing the end of an interesting story before the beginning had been +read. But even if it were well to do so, every page in this publication +would be needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, +every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the quarry. + +That the common species of game are plentiful is superfluous to say. On +holidays and at week ends, during the open season, it is a familiar +sight to witness the khaki-suited brave looking sportsmen, with guns or +fish baskets and rods, clambering onto the trains or hiking to the +nearest point where the welcome woods and the realm of habitation meet. +It is equally common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along +at the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, +vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals. + +Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent are the Chinese +pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hungarian partridge, and +native prairie chickens; all are found along the streams or in the +clearings and fields of nearly every part of the state. Blue grouse are +quite plentiful in western Washington and in the wooded sections of +eastern Washington. Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan +Highlands and in several of the western counties. All species of ducks +are to be found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary +thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Empire; while +geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in eastern Washington. + +[Illustration: THE ANGLER'S REWARD. + +Photo by B. C. Collier] + +Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real fighting +trout as Washington; including especially the mountain, rainbow, cut +throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, and eastern brook, in all +lakes and mountain streams. Black bass and perch are very plentiful in +the land-locked lakes; and certain sections produce also many varieties +of white fish, sun fish, croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget +Sound, the harbors and the Columbia River contain many species of +salmon. + +The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, found chiefly in +the hills and mountains, although in some localities it invades the +domains of domestic animals. The leading varieties noted are the mule +and black tail, there being also a few white tail. In the Olympic region +are large herds of elk and a few in the southwest and northeastern +counties. These, however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain +goat and sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades; while the +black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and mountains; also +occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These latter, however, keep +themselves far removed from the main traveled roads; only by much care +are they located, so that the timid need have no fear of wandering in +the woods alone. + +In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of the year, five +trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a number by separate +counties. The state hatcheries alone planted 4,399,050 trout in 1913. +The common birds are propagated and set free at both public and private +expense. + +With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and counties +blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, the true +sportsman will never regret casting his lot with the state of +Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be encouraged to the +fullest degree. + +[Illustration: HAYDEN LAKE + +ROSE GARDEN HAYS PARK + +MANITOU PARK + +WATERFALL, INDIAN CANYON + +DOWN RIVER DRIVE + +IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE.] + + + + +[Illustration: CITIES AND SUGGESTED TRIPS + + "Spreads now many a stately city; + Solitude returns no more! + Happy country! happy people! + Peace prevails from shore to shore"] + + +The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural setting, and +reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic design of the +people who dwell within them. In western Washington they are usually +protected by verdure covered hills, and built to overlook the Sound, the +harbors, or the rivers. The smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams +which supply power and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible. + +The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and adorned +with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking in the +Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually in sight. In +the northern counties, however, the native trees and mountains again +become more prominent. + +All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable hotels. +Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and other public +buildings are of modern structure; the streets are generally paved; +practically all have electric lights and pure running water. The homes +are planned both for beauty and comfort, and are often surrounded by +green lawns or gardens where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers +reach perfection. + +The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the larger +centers, and the more important trips from each. They are arranged to +represent a tour about the state and in the order in which one might +visit all, or certain ones only, with the least expenditure of time. The +cities given have commercial organizations prepared to give further +information regarding their respective localities. + + +=SPOKANE:= Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest city in +the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500 per cent +in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River with +wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad +centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating on +their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, theaters, +public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in the northwest. +Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at more than +$2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city in the +United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with broad +highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There is a +boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing pool a +mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One may see +large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, and many +big development projects within a limited area. It is the home of the +North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per cent of the +apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. + + +A few of the more important trips should include the following: + + Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in + Eastern Washington. + + Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still + there). + + Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal + qualities of water; one of state's hospitals here. + Return by way of Cheney, home of one of state + normal schools. + + Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to + Hayden Lake. + + Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at + cost of $194,000. + + Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on + Waikiki Road. + + Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the + world. + + Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich + agricultural valley, good roads, mountains in + sight, many lakes. + + Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline + Falls; see Box and Grandview Canyons; river falls + 400 feet in 12 miles. + + Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse + country. + + Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State + College at Pullman, one of the most remarkable + rides--train, auto, or electric. + + Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver + mine in the world. + + Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon. + + Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam. + + See also "Spokane Country" under the "Inland + Empire." + + +=WALLA WALLA:= (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one time said to +"have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more pretty girls +than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. One of the +richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to Vancouver, oldest +city in the state, and home of first white woman in the Northwest. +Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered with waving +grain, surround it; while many a little stream, protected by cottonwoods +and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. The N. P. and O. W. R. & +N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway pass through. Trees line the well +paved streets and produce a particularly artistic effect. Here is +located Whitman College, on the site where Stevens made his famous +treaty with the Indians; the State Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit +Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest +bank in state. + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._ + + "_Superbly flowing_ + _By piny banks basaltiform, romantic_"] + + +Trips should include: + + The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for + wild and rugged canyons and summer resorts. + + Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only + pass to the Wallowa country in Oregon; Wallowa + Lake. + + Bingham Hot Springs, 40 miles; Clinker Hot + Springs. + + The famous Whitman monument at Waiilatpui, about 6 + miles west. + + The Columbia and Snake rivers; Palouse Falls; the + Little and Big Meadows. + + Vast wheat, barley and rye farms, some of which + contain 4,000 acres and more; also large stock + ranches. + + The Touchet Valley, where diversified farming is + successful. + + Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, + via Inland Empire Highway. + + Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake. + +[Illustration: A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA.] + + +=NORTH YAKIMA:= Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the largest body +of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. All points +in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are easily reached. +Business and public buildings are of artistic design. City is +symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It grew from +a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace with the rapid +development evident all up and down the valley. A blossom festival is +held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair in September. A +sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles through alfalfa +fields and orchards where the results of irrigation are displayed. Good +automobile roads extend in every direction. + + +Trips should include: + + A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive + view of valley. + + Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the + narrows to Soda Springs. + + Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the + return Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams are plainly seen. + + One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline + motor, automobile, or the N. P. Ry. The towns of + Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, Mabton, Granger, + Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, will + be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in + the state. + + Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the + Cascades--summer resorts and storage reservoirs. + + Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of + Basalt, following the American and Bumping rivers + to the summit of the Cascades. + + Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past + "Painted Rocks." + + Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain + and glacial scenery here rivals the Canadian + Rockies. + + Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas--good roads + and scenery. + + Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas--beautiful + scenery. + + +=ELLENSBURG:= Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 acres are +irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 acres more. +A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and dairy farms +gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where grand mountain +scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. One of the three +State Normals is here. Splendid highways. + + +Suggested trips: + + Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good + view of Mt. Stewart (9,470 feet). + + North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas. + + Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; + perpendicular cliffs on either side. + + Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and + Cle Elum, 40 miles. At these three beautiful lake + resorts, in the heart of the Cascades, the + Government is building, at mammoth expense, a + system of storage dams for watering the Yakima + Valley. + + Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table + Mountain, by a 5,200-foot pass from which Mt. + Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other peaks are visible. + + +=WENATCHEE:= The metropolis of North Central Washington, and gateway to +the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and Lake Chelan +regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and Wenatchee rivers, +with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles away. One continuous +orchard is seen up and down both valleys. Auto roads lead in all +directions to innumerable points of interest, and the navigable Columbia +provides transportation for many miles. A labyrinth of lakes and +beautiful farms are within easy reach. The mountain scenery is +impressive. For a commanding view one should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts +Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the smoke of Walla Walla are visible from +some points. Population 5,000. + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and + Rainbow Falls by Red Apple route and auto stage + and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 miles from Lake + Chelan--a star trip. + + Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. + Horseshoe Basin. + + Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a + beautiful natural park, between Lake Chelan and + Entiat Valley, reached by Government trail; good + hotels. + + Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, + wheat fields. + + Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or + train, boat part way if preferred. A week or more + could be spent to advantage. Historical sights are + numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian Mission. + Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in + state. Big irrigation projects are seen. Near + Oroville are Osoyoos, Wanacut and Epsom Salts + Lakes, and the Similkameen river. Okanogan, county + seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed. + + Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; + irrigation, captivating scenery, splendid roads. + + Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry + counties. + + Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake. + +[Illustration: + +DENNY HALL, U. OF W. + +UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON, SEATTLE + + _Administration Building + Domestic Science Hall + State College_ + +STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON, PULLMAN + +OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.] + + Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, + from which Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, + and the government fish hatcheries are easily + reached; also Icicle River by horseback over + government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, + (auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite + mountain resort 23 miles northwest. + + +=SNOHOMISH:= "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in Snohomish +county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country just east of +Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and river boats, +as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips. + + +=EVERETT:= "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. Located on a +sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish River. Views +on every side are superb. The Cascades and Olympics are clearly visible, +especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and many lesser peaks, including +Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. Parks, boulevards and +playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic completeness. The only +arsenic plant in the United States is here. It is an important +manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, machinery and paper. +Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country extends to the +Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is held in July. The +G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three interurbans center here, +while automobile roads, including the Pacific Highway, lead to the +mountains and to lake resorts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from + which may be reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and + Bridal Veil Falls; Lake Serene, Lake Isabel and + many scenic peaks easily climbed. + + Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and + Olney Falls. + + Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, + hunting, camping. + + Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, + and Mt. Pilchuck. + + Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic + Hot Springs. + + Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes + and resorts; Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other + towns--some excellent roads. + + Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and + Tulalip Indian Reservation. + + Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades. + + Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower + Stillaguamish where lie rich dyked lands. + + Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat + fields. + + Seattle 1 1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2 1/2 + hours to the north, by Pacific Highway. + + Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe + with its large condensery; state reformatory here. + + Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro + Woolley and La Conner. + + +=SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:= Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, Sedro +Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, famous +both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest farm land in +the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes are built to +protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have been known as +high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is nowhere in the state +more important, two condenseries being supported in Mount Vernon. Two +main railroad lines with branches, besides an interurban, serve the +section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County Highway cross at +Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, Anacortes, Everett +and east into the mountains, visible from almost every point. Many +beautiful lakes in region. + + +=ANACORTES:= A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity of +Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and Sound steamers +supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway starts here. Salmon +canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing and ship building may be +seen to advantage. + + +Suggested trips: + + South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry + and continue to Coupeville and Fort Casey. + Splendid roads; rhododendrons. + + East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water + always in sight. + + Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all + Sound points. + + +=BELLINGHAM:= Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern +Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the largest +salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills on +coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount Maker are +visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the state normal +schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay where the ships of +the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan Islands; fishing craft +may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have been provided. Pretty roads +lead through big timber in various directions. At its door stands Mount +Baker, one of main tourist objectives of the northwest, and one of the +most interesting mountains on the continent. The annual Marathon races, +participated in by the athletes of the world, are made to its summit and +back to Bellingham. + + +Suggested tours: + + Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited + time. + + Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan + islands; boat leaves every morning. See page 33. + + Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also + Deception Pass. + + U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; + Government bulb farm, in full bloom during April + and May; Country Club. + + Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; + Nooksack Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through + big timber. + + Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United + States. Birch Bay and Lincoln Park, visiting also + Custer, Lynden and Ferndale. + + Chuckanut Hill--view of Sound and surrounding + country. + + Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised--a rare + sight. + + Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver + and the ocean--splendid water trips. + + The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto. + + Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or + train. + + +=PORT ANGELES:= Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and nearer the +ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. Harbor is one of +the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive improvements are +taking place. It has one of the largest saw and shingle mills in the +world. No prettier scenery anywhere. + +[Illustration: + +BRINGING IN A WHALE + +INDIAN VILLAGE + +BURDEN BEARER + +CONTENTMENT + +CALLING MOTHER + +OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot + Springs. + + Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 + miles southwest, in the heart of the Olympics. + Hotel cost half a million. + + Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to + Mt. Olympus. + + Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built + at cost of $2,000,000.00 to furnish light and + power for entire Olympic Peninsula. + + Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see + largest irrigation tracts in Western Washington. + Mountains and Sound are continually in view. Trip + may be continued to Port Townsend or along the + Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor. + + +=PORT TOWNSEND:= "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on Quimper +Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery Bay, and +Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain View Park a broad +outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the waters mentioned, the +Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and hundreds of minor details. Other +beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls +than elsewhere in Western Washington. Pretty driveways decorated with +rhododendrons, unusual boating possibilities and easy approach to the +Olympics, make the region ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city +is Fort Worden, headquarters for the Puget Sound system of defenses, +where the 6th Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders +daily programs. Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound +stop daily. + + +Suggested trips: + + Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water. + + Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in + state, and other points on Whidbey Island. + + Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery. + + Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto. + + South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, + around Mt. Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood + Canal, returning via Discovery Bay and Saints + Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic Highway leads + clear through to Olympia. + + +=SEATTLE:= Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population of +325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, valleys +and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, but sloping +gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire area is +94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, Lake +Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor known as Elliott +Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines while an +elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects its +thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. There are +also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all points there is +visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics or Lake +Washington and the Cascades. + +Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its beauty. +Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and at the same +time have increased the area of the city by supplying material for +filling in the tide flats, now occupied by the most valuable factory +sites. The forty-two story Smith Building is the highest in the world +outside of New York. At Salmon Bay the Government is constructing its +second largest locks in a canal to connect the Sound with Lake +Washington. Six transcontinental lines have their terminals in this city +which is also the gateway to Alaska and the home port of the Great +Circle Route. + +[Illustration: SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW +YORK.] + + +Within the city one should visit: + + Lake Washington Canal Locks, Fort Lawton, West + Point Lighthouse, Loyal Height. + + University of Washington and A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, + overlooking Lake Washington. + + Lookout Tower at Volunteer Park. + + Lookout on forty-two story Smith Building. + + West Seattle and Alki Point--waterfront camping + sites inside city limits. + + Its many beautiful parks and matchless boulevard + system. + + +Outside trips should include: + + Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, 3 or 4 days--auto or + train. + + Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of America," and Lake + Crescent, via Port Angeles, 2 days--steamer and + auto. + + Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 day by Snoqualmie + Pass Road. + + Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near + North Bend. + + Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day. + + Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See + pages 29 and 33. + + Whidbey Island--Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still + Park, 1 or 2 days. + + Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds--paved + road. + + Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United + States, half day. Several good auto trips may be + taken from here. + + White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and + Auburn. A paved road extends all the way to Tacoma + and beyond. + + Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and + resort region between Seattle and Tacoma. + + Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett + on way. + + Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain + scenery, fishing and hunting; 1 or 2 days. + + Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the + Olympics. + +[Illustration: MT. BAKER PARK BOULEVARD AND LAKE WASHINGTON + +INTERLAKEN BOULEVARD + +TOTEM POLE IN PIONEER SQUARE + +VOLUNTEER PARK PORTION OF THE FORMAL GARDENS + +HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS.] + + Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake + Washington; go by the Duwamish river route and + return by Rainier Valley. + + Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines. + + See description of other Puget Sound cities, all + reached quickly. + + +=PUYALLUP:= A famous berry center in the rich Puyallup Valley. Over a +quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. All +Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans and +auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour to +Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and the +Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point for +Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern +entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma." + + +[Illustration: TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS +38,000.] + +=TACOMA:= Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance in the +state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the great +harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward the west +while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. Rainier (or Mt. +Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. A complete system +of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the natural beauty. The +residence portion of the city overlooks an extensive manufacturing +section which claims the largest meat packing establishment in the west, +the largest grain warehouse in the world, and the largest smelter west +of Butte City, with one of the tallest cement smokestacks in the world. +Tacoma is also the largest flour milling center west of Minneapolis and +the fifth city in exports and imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed +highway lead south through a vast natural park consisting of broad +prairies dotted with lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or +southeast into the famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its +improved parks comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point +Defiance park at northern extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright +Park in center of city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different +varieties. + +Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, seating +38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only one on +a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger depot, model +of its kind; and a speedway of 2 1/10 miles where the motor races of the +northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually. + + +Suggested trips outside of city: + + Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park--see + page 49. + + Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy + farms. + + American Lake, camping headquarters for the + National Guard. + + Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, + summer resorts on southern outskirts of city. Some + of the best natural roads in the world. + + Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake + Cushman and the Olympic Mountains--excellent + roads. + + Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer--immense water + power plants. + + Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild + Cat Falls. + + Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm--dozens of lakes in + vicinity. + + Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover + Creek. + + Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, + McNeils, Anderson and other islands. + + See also descriptions of other Puget Sound cities. + + +=OLYMPIA:= "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the Northwest," and +seat of state government. Three railroads and four state highways +converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low verdure covered +hills protecting the city and extending out along the shores. The +mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on the north, is +Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon trail is marked +by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. Tumwater, a mile +away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget Sound. In Olympia the +first store was opened for business in the state. The Old New England +Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial functions, is marked forever +by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, and the homes of the first +Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and General R. H. Milroy are +still to be seen. + + +Trips should include: + + Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls--trolley + cars, paved road. + + Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black + Lake, 5 miles; Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; + Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; Bloom's and Hewitt's + Lakes, 2 miles. + + Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux + Logging Camps. + + Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small + islands. + + Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and + Lake Cushman, 45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains + and Canal always in sight. + + Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper + Sound points. + + +=ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM:= Two cities on Grays Harbor, connected by +electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the southern route. +Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aberdeen), an increase +of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to lumbering and fishing +industries, but farming and dairying are gaining. Near by are some of +the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, including the +Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm ocean beaches +a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race tracks. Three +transcontinental trains serve the district. + +[Illustration: WRIGHT PARK + +A ROSE ARBOR + +POINT DEFIANCE PARK AND PUGET SOUND + +A SUBURBAN HOME ON AMERICAN LAKE + +IN AND ABOUT TACOMA.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just + across the Chehalis River. A trolley line connects + it with Aberdeen. + + Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sunset and Moclips + beaches, by auto, train or boat--ideal summer + resorts. + + Point Grenville and Cape Elizabeth, bold headlands + of the Olympics on either side of the Quiniault + River; near by are sporting grounds of the sea + lions. + + Montesano, county seat, at junction of Wynooche + with the Chehalis River (boat, train or auto). + Land near by produces 125 bushels of oats or 80 + tons of rutabagas to the acre. + + Around the harbor visiting Whaling station, + Government jetty and light house; see crab + fisheries; enjoy ocean swell. + + Humptulips Valley and Lake Quiniault in the Indian + Reservation; returning by canoe down Quiniault + River to Tahola, near the oil prospects; or + continue into the Olympics as far as desired. + + Read also "Harbor Country" chapter. + +[Illustration: HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES.] + + +=SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND:= Two progressive cities in southwestern +Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. Lumbering, +farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture are +sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country." + + +=CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS:= Important railroad centers four miles apart, +connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and Portland. Combined +population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A rich dairy and farm +country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, the Newaukum and +Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Centralia daily. Coal mines, +farms and lumber are important. Between cities are Southwest Washington +Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county seat, is a large condensery. The +Pacific Highway and the Rainier National Park Highway cross near by. + + +Suggested trips: + + The oldest Temple of Justice in the state--built + in 1851. + + Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of + Skookumchuck and Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn + where Gen. Grant stopped. + + Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. + Girl's school just north of Centralia. + + Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station. + + Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at + Tenino. + + Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs + Falls, Cowlitz Gorge. + + Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at + Winlock, Napavine, Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and + other pretty towns. See smelt fisheries and + ocean-going cigar shaped raft. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle + Rock--two weeks' trip. + + +=VANCOUVER:= Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson Bay +Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible from all +points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke county is +noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal habitat. +Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 acres of land, +300 of which constitute a natural park with many winding roads. State +schools for the deaf and the blind are located near. What is said to be +the oldest apple tree in the Northwest still thrives. Electric lines +extend to the outlying districts, also to Portland, Oregon, while auto +drives may be made along the river, nowhere more picturesque, or through +the surrounding prosperous farming districts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles (auto or steam cars). + + Washougal River, 20 miles east (auto or steam + cars). + + Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown Columbia Paper + Mills. + + Lake Merrill, costing $25.00 for four or five + persons. + + Portland, Oregon, the second city in the + Northwest, soon to be connected by a $1,750,000.00 + bridge across the Columbia. + + North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and + camping. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via + Lewis River. + + Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat + county, via White Salmon. + + Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in + Skamania county. + + White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich + picturesque region adapted to orchards and + farming. + + A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to + Celilo Falls. + +[Illustration: A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER.] + + +=GOLDENDALE:= County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. P. & S. +railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with valleys, +mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. Helens, are +always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. Historical sights are +numerous. + + + +[Illustration: BULL SEAL AND HAREM--PRIBILOF ISLANDS + +REINDEER HERD ON LOWER YUKON + +EXCURSION STEAMER NEAR TAKU GLACIER + +HYDRAULIC MINING + +RHUBARB AT SKAGWAY + +ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH.] + + + + +[Illustration: ALASKA,--OUR ALLY + + "A land of allurement and promise, + Bold venture and strenuous deed."] + + +When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alaska awaits you. +Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free empires! This region is so +extensive that even the state of Washington would be lost in its midst, +for its area is equal to that of the original thirteen colonies, with +Maine, Vermont, Ohio, Indiana, Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown +in, or one-fifth of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude +of 1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the +Atlantic to the Pacific. + +In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupendous mountains +reach to three and nearly four miles in height, loftier than any others +in the United States or its possessions. The Yukon River is 2,300 miles +in length and its nearest rival, 1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in +North America are here, which make those of Europe look like mere +pygmies, and volcanoes still in eruption may be viewed from a safe +point. The scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the +snowy peaks beyond is truly magnificent. + +It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there had been +produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price paid for its +purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each white person now +inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold mining and within the last +twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, seals, furs, copper and +silver--permanent resources of region. + +Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its latitude is +similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washington and as the Gulf +Stream affects England. Both plant and animal life flourish and about +100,000 square miles of land are available for agricultural purposes. + +To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip from +Seattle--a thousand miles of calm sea. + +[Illustration: MAP OF WASHINGTON] + +[Illustration: SEAL-OF-THE-STATE-OF-WASHINGTON] + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Page 22, "occurences" changed to "occurrences" (occurrences that so +often) + +Page 32, "stupenduous" changed to "stupendous" (the stupendous sum) + +Page 49, repeated word "of" removed from text. Text now reads (waters of +Puget Sound) + +Page 49, "State" changed to "States" (pinnacle in the United States) + +Page 67, "panaroma" changed to "panorama" (unfolds a panorama) + +Text uses both historic and current spelling of Whidby/Whidbey Island. + +This book spells "throroughfare" as "thorofare". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. 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Giles. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + img {border: 0;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + .copyright {text-align: center; font-size: 70%;} + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: justify;} + + .bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 80%;} + .attrib {font-style: italic; font-size: 70%; text-align: left;} + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .unindent {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + .right {text-align: right;} + .poem {margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .poem2 {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + .sig {margin-right: 10%; text-align: right;} + + .hang1 {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 5em;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. Giles + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Beauties of the State of Washington + A Book for Tourists + +Author: Harry F. Giles + +Release Date: September 30, 2009 [EBook #30139] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WASHINGTON *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<div class='bbox'> + +<h1>THE BEAUTIES</h1> + +<h3>OF THE</h3> + +<h1>STATE <small>OF</small> WASHINGTON<br /><br /></h1> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;"><a name="cover" id="cover"></a> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="306" height="450" alt="Cover image" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br /><br /><small><span class="smcap">by HARRY F. GILES—Deputy Commissioner</span></small><br /> + +<big>STATE BUREAU STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION</big><br /> +<small>I.M. HOWELL—<span class="smcap">Secretary of State-Ex-Officio Commissioner.</span></small><br /> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 386px;"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> +<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="386" height="600" alt="THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER</span><br /> +<div class='center'>"<i>Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue</i>"</div> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Asahel Curtis</i></div><br /> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/title_page.jpg" width="500" height="944" alt="Title page" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>STATE OF WASHINGTON</h2> + +<h4>DEPARTMENT OF STATE</h4> + +<h3>BUREAU OF STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION</h3> +<div class='center'> +I.M. HOWELL, SECRETARY OF STATE<br /> +EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER<br /><br /> +</div> + +<h1>THE BEAUTIES</h1> + +<h3>OF THE</h3> + +<h1>STATE <small>OF</small> WASHINGTON<br /><br /></h1> +<h3>A BOOK FOR TOURISTS</h3> +<h4>BY HARRY F. GILES, DEPUTY COMMISSIONER<br /></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +OLYMPIA<br /> +FRANK M. LAMBORN, PUBLIC PRINTER<br /> +1915<br /></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>TABLE OF CONTENTS.</h2> + + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>Page</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>List of Full Page Illustrations</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Evergreen State</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Our Mountains</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington Forests</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Climate</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a>-<a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ideal for Yachting and Cruising</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Hood Canal</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Other Trips</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Commerce</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The East Shores</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Islands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">San Juan Group</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Whidby Island</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Other Islands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Olympic Peninsula</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Harbor Country</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_40">40</a>-<a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Grays Harbor</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Willapa Bay</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier National Park</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Columbia River</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Inland Empire</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_63">63</a>-<a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chief Features</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">How to Reach Them</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Yakima Valley</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Wenatchee Valley</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lake Chelan</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Okanogan Highlands</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Spokane Country</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Wheat Plateau</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Walla Walla Country</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Columbia River</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Our Scenic Highways</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a>-<a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">The Pacific Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sunset Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Inland Empire Highway</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Sportsman's Paradise</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cities and Suggested Trips</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alaska—Our Ally</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#Map">Map Showing Principal Highways</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<h2>FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#cover">Cover Design</a> (a water color)</td><td align='right' colspan='2'>Miss Zola F. Gruhlke</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Engravings</td><td align='right' colspan='2'>By Western Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='3'><br />THREE-COLOR HALFTONES.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Title.</i></td><td align='center'><i>Photographer.</i></td><td align='right'><i>Page</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Rhododendron (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lake Chelan (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#chelan">8</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Forest Stream</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A Puget Sound Sunset</td><td align='left'>Webster & Stevens</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake (C.)</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#rainier">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunnyside Canal (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Priest Rapids</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Columbia River from White Salmon (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#columbia">96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='3'><br />ONE-COLOR HALFTONES.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Deep Lake</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Snoqualmie Falls (C.)</td><td align='left'>Romans Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Mount Baker (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Looking Across the Cascades (C.)</td><td align='left'>Kiser Photo Co.</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Principal Trees in Washington</td><td align='left'>C. H. Ziddell</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Lumber Industry (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Bremerton Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma and The Mountain</td><td align='left'>Avery & Potter</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle and The Olympics</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>San Juan Islands (Gr.)</td><td align='left'>J. A. McCormick</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Olympic Mountain Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lake Crescent</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Chehalis River (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Southwest Washington Views (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Surf on Washington Coast (C.)</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Mount Rainier National Park (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mount Rainier and Lake Washington (C.)</td><td align='left'>W. P. Romans</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Along the Columbia River (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Snake River Country</td><td align='left'>Asahel Curtis</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rock Lake</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Yakima Valley</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Wenatchee Valley</td><td align='left'>Curtis & Miller</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Irrigation Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>City of Spokane</td><td align='left'>Frank Palmer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Wheat Fields (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Along the Scenic Highways (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.)</td><td align='left'>B. C. Collier</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane Falls and Bridge</td><td align='left'>Frank Palmer</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.)</td><td align='left'>Grant Humes</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Angler's Reward</td><td align='left'>B. C. Collier</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Spokane Scenes (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Our Leading Educational Institutions (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Tacoma's Parks (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.)</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright.<br /></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p004.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="DEEP LAKE—A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DEEP LAKE—A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p005.png" width="500" height="241" alt="The EVERGREEN STATE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the +Union, named for the "Father of His Country" and popularly +called the "Evergreen State," brings greetings.</p> + +<p>For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most +beautiful expression when all component elements have been +harmoniously combined, these words of welcome are written. +You are invited to come and share the joy that emanates from the +satisfaction of living in a country as nearly perfect as any that +earth has to offer.</p> + +<p>In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that +might appeal to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, +it is provided with all things for ministering both to man's +physical needs and to his innermost longings. All forces have contributed +towards its glory. More careful preparation was never +made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains that +reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their +innumerable streams and waterfalls; valleys and plateaus that +spring into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman; +forests of big trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect; +the greatest of oceans to temper with its breezes; inland seas +and azure lakes to embellish and attract—such are a few of the +elements that make the State of Washington and provide beauteous +homes for its people.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 341px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p006.jpg" width="341" height="600" alt="SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)—"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)—"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST."<br />Copyright by Romans Photo Co.</span> +</div> + + +<p>Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your +youthful impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to +reign? You can find it here—a place where wonderful pictures, +real and far grander than the famous paintings of your favorite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +artist, are constantly visible from your kitchen window or from +your work shop—and they need no expensive frames to enhance +their loveliness and no dusting to prevent their obscurity.</p> + +<p>What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the +brave mountaineers who must yearly draw near the Almighty, +and dare the elements by treading dangerous yet entrancing +trails to heights where the world appears at your feet? +Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to accommodate +yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic +highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you +regard yourself a mighty hunter and desire so to convince +your friends? Or would you be content to angle for the finny +denizens of the deep with a certainty that you will not in turn +be tantalized?</p> + +<p>The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for +all these. Its mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not excelled +by the +most boasted +scenes of +Switzerland.</p> + + +<p>Almost the +year round the +waters of +Puget Sound +and the harbors +of the +southwest invite +the small +craft. Nearly +50,000 miles +of scenic +highway, passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for +your automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and +hoofed, will lure you through many a jungle of delicate fern and +sweet scented bramble; while countless streams and lakes teem +with fish of many species.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p007.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p007-big.jpg">MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, +cozy camping sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regattas,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +midwinter fairs, roses at Christmas, golf the year round on +turf that's always green—these are a few of the charms that are +as common in the state of Washington as sands in the Sahara, +or ice at the Poles.</p> + +<p>If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy +that exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's +breast, becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firmament +are beheld, then by all means visit this the "Evergreen +State" and drink in the glories which no book, howe'er so well +written, and no picture, whoe'er the artist, can portray with any +degree of fullness or accuracy.</p> + +<p>Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. +At one moment you may be jostled along the streets of some +metropolitan center among people of many nationalities and +within a mere hour or so be wafted to a sequestered spot of transcendent +beauty, where no voice but your own is echoed by the +hills and where the existence of any other human being to share +this planet can be completely forgotten.</p> + +<p>It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are +planned: mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out; lands +are reclaimed from the deep; orchards fill its valleys; wheat +plateaus extend for miles; salmon traps line the shores; its +lumber supplies the world; its ships sail all the seas; monstrous +bridges cross the waterways; buildings vie with the highest anywhere +constructed; its schools rank first in the Union; its men +contribute to the world's greatness; its women vote and rear +capable families; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, +originality, enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes +of the western spirit, are evident throughout the state.</p> + +<p>Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 +to over 1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been converted +into gardens, villages have developed into towns, while +towns have grown into cities, taking their places among the +leading marts of the world. From a frontier state it has come +to be one of the greatest and most important in the Union, adding +to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that has yet appeared +on the horizon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="chelan" id="chelan"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p008.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN THE WEST" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN THE WEST<br /><i>"Pride of the waters of the world"</i></span> +<div class='attrib'>Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</div></div> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p009.png" width="500" height="249" alt="OUR MOUNTAINS" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<p>Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye +of a visitor upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists +of the mountain ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, +forming, as it were, ladders reaching from the green vales of +earth to the blue vaults of heaven. Silhouetted against the sky +in the hazy distance, they are noted by the westward bound traveler +as soon as he reaches the highest point in the divide of the +Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way eastward upon +the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the nearness of +the welcome land.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 366px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p010.jpg" width="366" height="600" alt="MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p010-big.jpg">MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM.</a></span> +</div> +<p>These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, +both for their scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence +they exert on the climate and on the lives of the people who +build their homes in the valleys below. Their supremacy is reflected +by the thermometer, the barometer, and the aerometer; +for they help regulate the temperature, the rainfall, and the +wind's velocity. They form great repositories for the waters +that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. Within +their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious +and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their +lower zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of +Washington's big timber, while the alpine meadows above secure +for the timid deer and ptarmigan asylums of temporary +freedom from too frequent disturbance by prowling huntsmen. +Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, reserved for the +wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields traversed by +the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. Everywhere +the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +prowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking +mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to +reach some dizzy height.</p> + + + +<p>Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innumerable +lakes, beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady +shores is many a sequestered spot, most tempting to the camper +who loves the mountain region; and many a brook goes trickling +over its stony course to join the rivers below, pausing here and +there in some shady dell to create a deep pool for luring the fisherman, +or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as a waterfall +of wonderful magnitude and magnificence.</p> + +<p>The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They +remind us perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth +their fiery refuse, or of the era when the sea covered most of +what is now land. Indestructible they stand and their rocky +heights are in places insurmountable. The works of man trespass +everywhere else, but these huge pillars of the ages rise in their +majestic splendor and with sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus +far and no further! We will preserve and guard your water +and fuel supply. We will protect you from the furies of the +elements and produce materials for building your palaces. We +will create charming nooks where you may camp under the +clear sky, and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. +We will fill the brooks with swift darting fish; carpet the +meadows with myriads of flowers, ferns, and shrubs; and paint +you pictures undreamt of by men who have scorned our +acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads whereby your +Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, but +not one of our number shall be moved nor its form be changed +in the least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty +will we were brought into existence."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p012.jpg" width="600" height="341" alt="LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p012-big.jpg">LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.</a><br />Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</span> +</div> + +<p>Each mountain range possesses its own distinct characteristics. +Of least importance, but none the less beautiful, are +the Blue Mountains in the southeastern corner of the state, +providing pleasant summer retreats for the people in that +vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the Olympic +Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands +lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +In this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, +presenting some of the wildest and most inspiring scenery anywhere +to be found.</p> + +<p>Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography +of the state are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from +5,000 to 8,000 feet and named for the many hurrying streams +that have cut their deep courses upon the shady slopes. They +extend from the British Columbia line slightly southwest until +divided by the Columbia river, whence they continue through +Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By them +the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct +parts, known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former +comprising a portion of the great Inland Empire. Forming a +sort of spur on their east side, north of the Columbia, and extending +to the mountains of Idaho are the beautiful rolling hills +known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to 6,000 feet in +altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on their +higher surfaces forests of pine.</p> + +<p>Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks +tower above the others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest +by far is Mount Rainier (or Mount Tacoma), second highest +mountain in the United States proper, 14,408 feet in altitude +and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and Tacoma; +Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania +and Yakima counties; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at +the western edge of Skamania county, reached from Castle +Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, 10,730 feet, forty miles +from Bellingham and one of its main attractions; Mount +Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier Peak, +10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet +is the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that +elevation. Fifty-seven have already been named and measured.</p> + +<p>All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount +Olympus in the Olympics, constitute the main goals of the mountain +loving clubs of the northwest. Mountain phenomena are displayed +in all with a maximum degree of grandeur, insuring ample +reward to those venturing to explore their many fastnesses.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p014.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK—PRINCIPAL TREES IN WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK—PRINCIPAL TREES IN WASHINGTON.<br />Photo by C. H. Ziddell.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p015.png" width="500" height="239" alt="WASHINGTON FORESTS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and +mountains of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions +were originally left bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a +spirit of independence seem to have pushed their bald heads +up and above this beautiful covering protecting the regions below. +Into the fertile valleys and along the river banks clear to +the sea the stately ranks of these forests once advanced, but +such localities are now, for the most part, given over to the +cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transformation +are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the +peaceful pursuits of agriculture; for the broad Columbia plain +was the only part of the state dedicated from the first to the sole +task of producing food supplies rather than fuel and building +material.</p> + +<p>About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up +in eleven national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, +or to insure permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen +in her full pristine glory—Conservation! Nearly six million +acres more are under private ownership. Investigation reveals +evidences that their birth occurred very many years ago, possibly +five hundred or even six hundred years; for that many rings +have been counted on some of the largest trees. The foliage +appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it +first mingled with the landscape—hence the name "Evergreen +State."</p> + +<p>The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scenery +of the state of Washington can be best realized by climbing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +to one of the heights overlooking the timber line. From here +one can readily see how perfectly it hides every blemish of the +irregular contour, blending beautifully with the blue waters in +the distance and the pale clouds floating above. Thousands of +greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light yellowish +tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of +bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p016.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Photo by Curtis & Miller</i></div> +<span class="caption">ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS<br />"<i>O'erhung with wild woods, thickening green</i>"</span> +</div> + +<p>Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its +midst, breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and +cedars, it is easy to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in +size, form, color, and variety, for</p> + +<div class='poem'> +"No tree in all the grove but has its charms,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Though each its hue peculiar."</span><br /> +</div> + +<div class='unindent'>One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest +forests of the temperate zone; while standing proudly on every +side are individual giants, which for size can be duplicated nowhere +else in the world, excepting by occasional specimens of +the famous Red Woods of California.</div> + +<p>These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and +thoroughly worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to +mar their fame in spite of the ages through which they have lived. +Most prominent is the Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseudotsuga +taxifolia), the giant of the forest, growing erect as a +plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown two hundred feet +or more above the ground. This is the most important tree of +the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past ten +years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in +the United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous +proportions of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a +single one producing material sufficient to build a palace of huge +dimensions.</p> + + + + +<p>Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching sometimes +a height of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases +of over 20 feet; yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds +of all the shingles produced in the United States. Similar to +the Cypress, its sweet soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous +and always pleasing. Other trees which provide lumber and add +grace to the Washington woods are the hemlocks, spruces,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +larches, and white firs, in the western part of the state; and the +pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern counties.</p> + +<p>Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled +throughout the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the +artistic design. There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked +madronas; the pale barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, +the bitter tasting willows; the white flowered dogwood, +prominent throughout the forests until late in the spring, and +occasionally found blooming in the fall; the gray barked alder +protecting the springs and mountain streams; the sturdy oaks, +skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and the +hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. +Many of these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find +nothing more suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city +parks and boulevards.</p> + +<p>Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to +have been destined especially to yield food for the natural +wanderers of the forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be +wanted in the state of Washington. There is probably no other +section of the world where wild berries grow in greater profusion. +Very prominent is the wild cherry, the wild apple, the +salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, the salal berry, +the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the wild +currant, and the raspberry.</p> + +<p>Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek +with nature lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for +which this section of the world is noted, is many a modest flower +which in some sections blooms nearly the whole year round, so +soft is the climate; while the pink petaled rhododendron, of +bolder nature, Washington's state flower, is prominent in June +tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and lining the +course of many a pretty driveway.</p> + +<p>Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with +its sweetness, may be heard the music of some rippling stream +winding its happy way down the mountain side and playing, as +it were, an accompaniment to the duets of soul mated song birds +unable to restrain their songs of joy. If this is a wilderness +then a wilderness is a paradise on earth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 347px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p018.jpg" width="347" height="600" alt="ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p018-big.jpg">ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p019.jpg" width="500" height="250" alt="THE CLIMATE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip +are always interested in the climate of the locality attracting +their attention, for they know that absolute contentment in any +clime, even for a brief period, is impossible without a friendly +attitude on the part of the elements. So many regions seem to +have been permanently blighted by conditions opposed to human +happiness, or at least to have been forgotten in certain important +essentials when Nature was passing round her favors.</p> + +<p>The state of Washington, however, received a full share +of climatic blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes +either of heat or cold its climate is as temperate as that +of southern England—a most remarkable fact when one realizes +that its latitude is higher than that of the state of Maine +and its northern boundary line corresponds to that of North +Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by +the protecting mountains and their dense forests together with +the breezes blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the +mysterious Japan Current.</p> + +<p>So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the +mountainous regions, that the same weight of clothing is by +many found sufficient the year round. In every section there is +a long growing season and only a short mild winter, known on +the west side as the "rainy season." There is never danger +from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are deflected to +the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green foliage +the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture +available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle +may be turned loose almost any day in the year and the farmer +is saved the necessity of spending all his summer's profits in +order that his livestock will not starve during a long cold period. +The lowest monthly normal temperature, as deduced from a +period of years, is for Seattle, 39°; Spokane, 27°; and Walla +Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal temperatures of +the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10°; St. Paul, +12°; Des Moines, 20°; and Chicago, 24°.</p> + +<p>The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally +stirring. There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest +parts the dryness of the atmosphere favors evaporation. The +nights are everywhere cool. When millions in other climes are +rolling about in their torturous beds, struggling for the relief +that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian doffs his +clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, and +is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the +morning refreshed and ready for life's battle.</p> + +<div class='center'> +MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON<br />CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES.<br /></div> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Summer temperatures"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='center'><i>June</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>July</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Aug.</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Sep.</i> </td><td align='center'> <i>Sum'r</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound District</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>62</td><td align='center'>61</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>59</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle</td><td align='center'>60</td><td align='center'>64</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>58</td><td align='center'>61</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma</td><td align='center'>58</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>57</td><td align='center'>60</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>69</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>59</td><td align='center'>65</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chicago</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>71</td><td align='center'>64</td><td align='center'>68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New York City</td><td align='center'>69</td><td align='center'>74</td><td align='center'>73</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>70</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boston</td><td align='center'>66</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>70</td><td align='center'>63</td><td align='center'>68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington, D. C.</td><td align='center'>73</td><td align='center'>77</td><td align='center'>75</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>73</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Philadelphia</td><td align='center'>72</td><td align='center'>76</td><td align='center'>74</td><td align='center'>68</td><td align='center'>72</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, +such as discomforts the people in eastern cities during +those months and causes so many disappointments; for 80 per +cent of our precipitation occurs between October 15th and +May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and sunrise, so +that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred.</p> + +<p>The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes +while the valleys, where the people make their homes, have no +more than enough to produce a vigorous plant growth. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +average for the year on Puget Sound is about the same as in +Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New York or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation +in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that +of California.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 341px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p021.jpg" width="341" height="600" alt="SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p021-big.jpg">SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, +according to the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 +inches; Spokane, 18.8 inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, +33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 +inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, 43.3 inches; Los Angeles, +15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches.</p> + +<div class='center'> +MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES.<br /></div> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Rainfall"> +<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='left'> <i>June</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>July</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Aug.</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Sep.</i> </td><td align='left'> <i>Sum'r</i> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Puget Sound District </td><td align='left'>1.59</td><td align='left'>0.67</td><td align='left'>0.74</td><td align='left'>2.01</td><td align='left'>5.01</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seattle</td><td align='left'>1.41</td><td align='left'>0.61</td><td align='left'>0.46</td><td align='left'>1.98</td><td align='left'>4.46</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tacoma</td><td align='left'>1.97</td><td align='left'>0.69</td><td align='left'>0.66</td><td align='left'>2.79</td><td align='left'>5.91</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spokane</td><td align='left'>1.61</td><td align='left'>0.67</td><td align='left'>0.48</td><td align='left'>1.01</td><td align='left'>3.8</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Walla Walla</td><td align='left'>1.2</td><td align='left'>0.4</td><td align='left'>0.4</td><td align='left'>0.9</td><td align='left'>2.9</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chicago</td><td align='left'>3.52</td><td align='left'>3.62</td><td align='left'>3.02</td><td align='left'>3.06</td><td align='left'>13.22</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>New York City</td><td align='left'>3.41</td><td align='left'>4.08</td><td align='left'>4.38</td><td align='left'>3.44</td><td align='left'>15.31</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Boston</td><td align='left'>3.14</td><td align='left'>3.51</td><td align='left'>4.15</td><td align='left'>3.44</td><td align='left'>14.24</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Washington, D. C.</td><td align='left'>3.74</td><td align='left'>4.34</td><td align='left'>4.98</td><td align='left'>3.25</td><td align='left'>16.31</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Philadelphia</td><td align='left'>3.27</td><td align='left'>4.14</td><td align='left'>4.69</td><td align='left'>3.36</td><td align='left'>17.46</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation +also offer protection against the extraordinary meteorological +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'occurences'">occurrences</ins> that so often terrorize the people in more +exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau has no authentic record +of a real tornado anywhere in the state of Washington" says +G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. S. +Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. +Loss of life never occurs from any of these causes. +The atmosphere is always pure and salubrious and the death +rate is lowest of all states in the Union, while its two largest +cities have the lowest death rate of all cities in the United States, +having a population of 100,000 or over.</p> + +<p>After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend +a season where no dreary winters will engender melancholy +while waiting for a lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat +will threaten prostration. Come to a state that is as free as +possible from the ills of unfriendly phenomena, and where one +beautiful day passes into the next as a pleasant dream shades +into the sweetest realities of life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p023.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p023-big.jpg">YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND.</a></span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p024.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="SCENES AT BREMERTON—ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL STATIONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p024-big.jpg">SCENES AT BREMERTON—ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL STATIONS.</a></span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Puget_sound" id="Puget_sound"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p025.png" width="500" height="236" alt="PUGET SOUND" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great +inland sea known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of +Juan de Fuca far into the interior of the state of Washington. +If the Strait mentioned, together with Hood Canal and a portion +of the Strait of Georgia are included, and they will be in +this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of mirror like surface are +encompassed within the green wooded shore lines of as many +lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every +direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, +at other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, +and again the modern cities located upon the shores.</p> + +<p>Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles +beckoning with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas +shelter hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing +shore line the "tide lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and +supply a sort of neutral ground, enjoyed now by the clam +diggers or oyster culturists and again claimed by the enveloping +waters.</p> + +<p>Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile +lands, which have been released from their forest burdens, are +now devoted to the pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally +to feed the multitudes dwelling in the neighboring large cities. +Here and there patches of virgin growth in primeval splendor +may still be seen, but usually, excepting in the Hood Canal +region, the forests have been forced back to the foot hills, leaving +in their wake the so-called logged-off areas which are in turn +rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further back<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable +streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, +transect the lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous +regions out into the salts of the deep.</p> + +<p>Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out +of the water, and command the view for miles in every +direction. Pictures are everywhere presented which reproduced +on canvass would insure the immortality of any artist. +Altogether the region presents the likeness of one vast kingly +garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured and all +wonders combine to enchant the visitor.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p026.jpg" width="400" height="277" alt="SUMMER TIME PLEASURES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SUMMER TIME PLEASURES.</span> +</div> + +<p>This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable +bulwarks of mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but +is at the very door of the people and enjoyed by them while +going about +their daily +tasks. Nearly a +million human +beings look out +upon its placid +waters and rejoice +at their +good fortune +in being permitted +to play, +as it were, upon +its banks, +and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering breezes +that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a +haven in winter—and there is room for ten times as many to +make their homes where these same joys may be experienced.</p> + +<p>Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period +required for the most extravagant display of human skill, was +this great pleasure resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, +between the rising of the waters that "drowned" the rivers once +flowing where now the Sound reposes and the advent of the +glaciers which deposited the fertile sediment to nourish the +luxuriant growth appearing on every hand.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p027.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR YARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p027-big.jpg">TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR YARD.</a><br />Photo by Avery and Potter.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p028.jpg" width="354" height="600" alt="VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p028-big.jpg">VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING.</div> + +<p>One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing +a bit of rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here +safe from the storms that pound sometimes against the outer +coast line; for its waters compose one great harbor, protected +by the forests and mountains. One may see "Uncle Sam's" +powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming toward +Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest +dry dock owned by the U. S. Government is located.</p> + +<p>But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels +alone. It could not have been improved if created especially for +the yacht, the motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome +canoe. Upon its surface is held many a local speed contest, +and the annual power boat race is run from Ketchikan, +Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are ideal for the college +regatta and for the difficult feats of the hydroplane. During +festive days many important events are pulled off, while the +happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along +the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above.</p> + +<p>For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages—never +threatened by tempests and always within reach of some +of nature's most glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable +for camps are easily found, from which short inland excursions +may be made through alpine meadows by winding trails to the +summit of some mountain or to the shores of some peaceful lake.</p> +<p>Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft +are not necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular +passenger steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance +make regular trips throughout the year from every city on +its shores to nearly every other part of the Sound; while special +summer time excursions are made from the metropolitan centers +to all the principal points of interest on Puget Sound and +to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska.</p> + + + +<div class='center'><br />HOOD CANAL.</div> + +<p>The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains +are in the narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending +southwesterly and bending back into the heart of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists riding over these waters for the +first time are elated with the splendors, and the frequent visitor +never tires of the inspiring scenes that everywhere greet the +eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms and settlements +in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge +is at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated +ridges are continually visible from the deck of a passing +steamer. Easily distinguishable also are the deep canyons +cut by the several main streams working their way towards +the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs and creating falls +of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the Dusewallips, +the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are +some of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails +are familiar to those making frequent pilgrimages thither.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p030.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE—ELLIOTT BAY AND THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p030-big.jpg">A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE—ELLIOTT BAY AND THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + +<p>Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain +summer resort reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish +valley containing the Indian reservation of the same name. At +Union City one may take the stage over a well traveled road +through groves and vales to Shelton, county seat of Mason +county, where regular steamers connect with all Puget Sound +points—thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OTHER TRIPS.</div> + +<p>Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main +traveled waters of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia +and Shelton, to Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, +Port Townsend, and Port Angeles; also out to the ocean or +through the San Juan Islands to Victoria and Vancouver in +British Columbia. The mountains are always in sight although +not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a continual +procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, gardens, +orchards, green meadows, and summer homes.</p> + +<p>Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a +myriad shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the +hovering clouds, which assume various grotesque shapes above +the shimmering waters; and even at night time when threading +the channel marked by the twinkling beacon lights, or entering<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +the harbor of a city resplendent with thousands of glittering incandescents.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p032.jpg" width="600" height="385" alt="A PUGET SOUND SUNSET" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Photo by Webster & Stevens</i></div><a href="images/illo_facing_p032-big.jpg"><span class="caption">A PUGET SOUND SUNSET</span></a> +<div class='poem'>"<i>When Sol in joy is seen to leave</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>The earth with crimson beam.</i>"</span><br /> +</div></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />COMMERCE.</div> + +<p>Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many +that suggest the state's commercial importance, for these waters +produce many million dollars worth of fish each year, and the +neighboring shores have the largest saw mills in the world, supplying +a big share of the 4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is +Washington's annual contribution and insures her first place in +the Union. Out from Bellingham and Anacortes may be observed +the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being raised, with sometimes +50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their meshes, soon +to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and shipped +to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are +seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes +of manufactured products which for the entire state approaches +the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'stupenduous'">stupendous</ins> sum of $300,000,000 yearly.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE EAST SHORES.</div> + +<p>The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east +shores, where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with +farms and gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade +Mountains, comprising five of the most densely populated counties +in the state. Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest +cities, Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center +of a rich territory supporting numerous smaller cities. At the +southern limit is Olympia, the state capital.</p> + +<p>Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, +vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which +go to support those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship +building, mining, and other manufacturing industries, and the +diversified business pursuits.</p> + +<p>Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost +unbroken string of electric railways render good local service, +while excellent roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross +the section and unite the people with indestructible bonds of +friendship and mutual interests.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> + +<p>A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other +parts of the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, +one of the grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, +forming the eastern boundary to Seattle, providing sites +for country homes and parks, and embellishing its boulevard +system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of similar importance +to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a number +of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE ISLANDS.</div> + +<p>Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the +many enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to +Blaine and within easy reach of the cities located upon its +shores. Some are hidden within partially concealed bays and +others appear like portions of the mainland until circumnavigation +has proved their seclusion. Although a few have sufficient +area and commercial importance to form entire counties, +the larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are +tiny gems suitable only for private resorts away from the busy +cities. Nearly all are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled +with flowers and ferns, and girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting +the real charms of camp life.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />SAN JUAN GROUP.</div> + +<p>Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful +than the San Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits +of Georgia, rivaling as they do the Thousand Isles of the St. +Lawrence or the classical Grecian Archipelago. There are +172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting their own +peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and shown +only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas +and Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are +Lummi, Guemes, and Cypress, similar in formation and of like +attractiveness. They are approachable with almost any kind of +craft, no great distances separate them, and often there is just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +passage for a steamer. They offer rare opportunity for playing +hide and seek on the water, a game which in days gone by men<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the international +boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of +safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 344px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p034.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p034-big.jpg">AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS.</a><br />Photos by J. A. McCormick.</span> +</div> + +<p>And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! +Had it not been for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in +1871, the Union Jack instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes +might today be floating over them. The two distinct camps +on San Juan Island where the British "Red Coats" and +the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, +are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche +Harbor, and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat.</p> + +<p>The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, +Bellingham or Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns +including Friday Harbor, where the University Marine Station +and two large salmon canneries are located; Roche Harbor, +where one of the largest lime kilns is prospering; and Deer Harbor, +West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and Doebay, attractive +as summer resorts.</p> + +<p>Many people spend their summers among these isles. The +tourist with limited time should, besides visiting the historic +sites on San Juan, make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas +Island. Two good wagon roads lead all the way to the top, the +one from East Sound and the other from Olga. A pleasant day's +outing is enjoyed by going up one way and returning by the +other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared with the +peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more comprehensive +outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the +"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the +beautiful country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired +Seattle ship builder, who has harnessed the water power from the +lakes lying a few hundred feet above and equipped a modern +mansion with all that man can desire or money and art can supply. +Who would guess that a great pipe organ might be heard +in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, bursting out in +unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of the great +composers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />WHIDBY ISLAND.</div> + +<p>Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohomish +counties, midway in the Sound where the views of the Cascades +and the Olympics are unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the +second largest island in the United States proper and sometimes +called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." With Camano Island +on the east and two other very small ones it constitutes an +independent county. Having much water front and its western +shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are +felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no +mountains to climb, although a number of eminences offer views +of the distant landscape.</p> + +<p>The largest improvement has been near the southern extremity +and between Coupeville and the northern limits, where the +world's record for wheat production per acre was made. A +beautiful road decorated with rhododendrons leads from Fort +Casey to Deception Pass separating it from Fidalgo Island on +the north, which is connected with the mainland by a first class +highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer Chautauquas +are held and many campers congregate.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OTHER ISLANDS.</div> + +<p>A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, having +forty miles of water front lined with summer homes or suitable +for camping sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma +are Vashon and Maury Islands, practically one, comprising some +twenty-three thousand acres, which yield for these cities berries, +fruits, vegetables, and flowers, and offer some of the most delightful +sites for homes along their fifty miles of attractive shore +line.</p> + +<p>Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of +the Bay Island country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and +offering unlimited opportunities for campers who are always +welcomed by the hospitable ranchers. Hartstine Island maintains +one of the largest vineyards in the west, yielding delicious +grapes which find their way to distant eastern markets. Numerous +smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and insure +pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 345px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p037.jpg" width="345" height="600" alt="WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS." title="" /> +<a href="images/illo_p037-big.jpg"><span class="caption">WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS.</span></a> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OLYMPIC PENINSULA.</div> + +<p>Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and extending +from the Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the +Chehalis river valley is the vast Olympic Peninsula, whose resources +and wonders are probably less known than almost any +other section of the world. The central portion constitutes one +great forest reserve within which is the Olympic National Monument +set apart by the government for the enjoyment of nature +lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns +situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monument +contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, +the most turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state.</p> + +<p>The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automobile. +Highways lead well up into the foothills from the cities +of Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, +Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal points, and passable +trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It is easy to +surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the approach +of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous +colors which make the region famous for its beauty.</p> + +<p>It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of +choicest timber remain uncut; valuable ore veins and a vast lake +of petroleum are buried within its depths; land well suited for +agriculture girdles the entire peninsula; and the neighboring +waters yield liberal quantities of fish.</p> + +<p>Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supplemented +with the conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. +Among these are Sol Duc Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol +Duc river, where a little palace has been lifted into the mountains, +Government Hot Springs, and Lake Crescent, all reached +from Port Angeles; Lake Cushman, approached from Hoodsport; +and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to +any of these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy +the most extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p039.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="HARBOR_COUNTRY" id="HARBOR_COUNTRY"></a> +<img src="images/illo_p040.png" width="500" height="238" alt="THE HARBOR COUNTRY" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the +"Harbor Country," the only part of the state where almost +simultaneously one may enjoy the rare combination of the unobstructed +ocean, an inland sea, and trout streams lined with +giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon the dominions +of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab seemingly +try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding +splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to +the remarkable competition.</p> + +<p>Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this section, +at least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon +another variety of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and +experience again the pleasure of riding through a valley that +appeals alike to the Pullman passenger and to the automobilist; +for it is human nature to love a change, even if one's home environment +approaches perfection itself.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p041.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY.<br />Copyright by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> +<p>There are two important salt water harbors in southwest +Washington, the more northerly one in Chehalis county, and +named Grays Harbor after the great explorer who discovered +it in 1792, and the southern one in Pacific county bearing an +Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated by only a +few miles of territory, which is served by no railroad other than +a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by Centralia, +excepting that during the summer months auto stages +traverse the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland; for the beach +here is level and broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the +tide has receded, that it is used as a highway, and even as a race +track for automobiles and motorcycles. This is true not only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +of the portion lying between the two harbors but also of the +twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" extending from +Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia.</p> + +<p>The entire region is fraught with charms that can be duplicated +nowhere else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are +patronized especially by people from the Sound cities and from +southwest Washington. North Beach to the south of Willapa +Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and other Oregon +cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are numerous, +when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity +of visiting the seashore.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 355px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p042.jpg" width="355" height="204" alt="POINT GRENVILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">POINT GRENVILLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bathing +in the surf or burrowing in the warm sands; hunting for +shells, agates, and +Indian relics; rowing, +and trolling for +salmon; or searching +for the rare floral +specimens abounding +in the neighboring +woods occupy the +time of many. +Others enjoy visiting +the canneries, observing the motor races, or watching the +sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into the +harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by +some fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam +bakes and, at the end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach +parties and the story telling, after which one is lulled into sweet +slumber by the unceasing roar of the ocean surf.</p> + +<p>So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach +will undoubtedly in time be ornate with one continuous array +of summer resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the +mouth of the Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the +Straits, and interrupted only by the narrow gaps marking the +entrances to the two harbors. Every manner of dwelling is +provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. Cottages<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one +of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />GRAYS HARBOR.</div> + +<p>To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the +ocean, means a trip through the wide fertile valley of the Chehalis +river, either by auto or over one of the three transcontinental +railroads that serve it. The entire journey presents a +panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream itself is conspicuous, +tracing the valley's boundary on one side and again on +the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the sea. +Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still +marked by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its +banks, and again by some rustic bridge where the highway +crosses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p043.jpg" width="500" height="185" alt="SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR.</span> +</div> + +<p>More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens +and the harbor is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including +Oakville, noted for large shipments of cascara bark; Elma, an +industrial center; and Montesano, the county seat and head of +river navigation. Green meadows, wooded slopes, and cultivated +farms on both sides of the river absorb the attention until +Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, are +reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth +within the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have +now a combined population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the +census returns of 1900. Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain +the homes of some of the wealthiest men in the state.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p044.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + +<p>Such development has been due largely to the importance +of the lumber industry which in this section of the state has +assumed large proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious +yards, and the huge vessels loading for foreign ports are common +sights within the cities. Farther away in the logging +camps the agility of the lumberjack is exhibited as he lays low +the giants of the forest and trims the logs ready for the mills.</p> + +<p>The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking +a ride upon its waters. Regular steamers make the round trip +each day, stopping at many points of interest, both in the north +and the south bay, including the North Jetty under construction +by the United States government, Westport, where the +life saving station and the wireless telegraph station are located, +and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations in the northwest. +On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be +seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and +visit Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes +that engage the evenings of the summer dwellers.</p> + +<p>Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts +near the terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits; +while those desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable +excursions into the wild Olympic region, exploring the forested +hills, visiting the oil prospects, or hunting and fishing.</p> + +<p>Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis +county alone are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which +passes near interesting scenes. One road extends to the south +of the harbor and another to the beach resorts at the north. +The Olympic Highway, one of the state primary highways, +leads east to the Sound country, and northward up the Humptulips +Valley, through the big timber to Lake Quiniault, located +in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the Quiniault Indian +Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the people +living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should +plan their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault +River in Indian canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this +way from Mount Olympus in 1913, pronounced it the best part +of the entire outing:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties +and experiences beggars description—the swift current, the +whirling eddies, the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into +the air to catch the flying insects, the banks clothed with magnificent +forests, log jams through which or under which we +passed, animated branches marking the rhythmic motion of the +current, the floating canoes gliding into the deeper, darker +water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever on to +the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through +the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next +test of skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating +bits of history or legends which explained names or some natural +phenomenon. The boom of the surf announced the end of the +journey. As the Mountaineers left the canoes on the beach at +Taholah, it was agreed that the trip down the Quiniault marked +the red-letter day of the 1913 outing."</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />WILLAPA BAY.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 195px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p046.jpg" width="195" height="250" alt="TWO PATRIARCHS—ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p046-big.jpg">TWO PATRIARCHS—ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, composed +of two sections, one extending southward and separated +from the ocean by a long narrow +peninsula, nowhere more +than two miles in width, and +the other reaching eastward +to South Bend and Raymond. +Into it flows Willapa river, +besides other short but swift +mountain streams teeming +with trout and other game +fish. The bar is about a mile +wide and the waters covering +it 28-1/2 feet deep at low tide, +thus enabling sea-going vessels +to cross without the aid +of tugs—a great advantage +to ocean liners and big lumber +schooners, which may be +seen almost any day either lying at the docks or loaded to the +gunwale passing out to sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + +<p>The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Columbia +River. People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +plans to dig a canal through this narrow strip so that vessels +may enter the river by way of Willapa Bay and avoid the Columbia +bar, kept open by jetties built at enormous expense.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p047.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST<br />Photo by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> + +<p>The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples +of what lumbering and fishing have done for Washington municipalities. +Where a few years ago was nothing but a wilderness, +known only to the Indians or an occasional fisherman, are +now busy marts with extensive waterfront factory sites. Pretty +roads start from these cities and wind along the harbor front +or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made +to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing stations. +Crab and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen +here to advantage, Tokeland being the place where eastern +oysters were first transplanted for mercantile purposes.</p> + +<p>South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the +North Beach ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view +of the bay, and the ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At +Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, all passengers are transferred +to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for Ilwaco and Megler, +whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train makes +frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive +summer cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly +visible on the right.</p> + +<p>Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula +is the quaint town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. +Near by are the most extensive cranberry marshes in the state. +Another attraction is "North Head," most southwesterly point +in the state of Washington, where an unobstructed view of the +ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen the waters of +the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in +Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, +the wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of +sea lions are usually sunning themselves.</p> + +<p>Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River +may be chosen to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be +quickly reached by the Pacific Highway or by rail. Every +tourist should make at least one visit to the Harbor Country +and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the state.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 389px;"><a name="rainier" id="rainier"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p049.jpg" width="389" height="600" alt="MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE<br />"<i>Owning no mightier but the King of kings</i>"</span> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Curtis & Miller</i></div></div> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p049.png" width="500" height="236" alt="MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding +promontory nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a panoramic +view most wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the +sun's warm rays were unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure +as the nectar of heaven. Only five hours before I had left the +city of Tacoma and a little earlier Seattle—two great cities +throbbing with the activities of nearly a half million people engaged +in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits.</p> + +<p>Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the +green valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay—the nearest +only forty miles distant by an air line, close to the waters <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'of of'">of</ins> +Puget Sound. Yet here, almost in sight of them, I was enjoying +a quietude known only to the haunts of nature. More +than seven thousand feet above me towered the majestic dome +of the second highest pinnacle in the United <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'State'">States</ins>, reserving +observation to the north until its summit should be reached, +while far toward the east and the south extended range +upon range of mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered +around their chief. Here and there among them appeared the +sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in Washington; and Hood, +Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in Oregon. Between +their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep +canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state.</p> + +<p>Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way +down the mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged +ridges. Between them and below were spread the meadowed alpine +parks or abandoned cirques—veritable fairylands—which +had been carved out by these superhuman agencies eons before.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +Barely distinguishable was the road by which I had made +the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across the face +of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams +glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the +profound hollows formed by the extending hills.</p> + +<p>The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of themselves +worth the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen +to Ashford where each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving +Tacoma, the highway threads a picturesque gravelly prairie +for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful canyon road, crosses the +Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the Nisqually Canyon a +thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin forests, +reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually +Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be +continued afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage.</p> + +<p>This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. +Perhaps no other area in the world brings so many and such +varied natural wonders to the very doors of two great cities. +It contains a total of 207,360 acres, or 324 square miles, of +which 100 square miles is occupied by Mount Rainier (or Mt. +Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently directly from +sea level, and visible from almost every point in the state.</p> + +<p>No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists +than this mighty pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial +area, no less than 45 square miles in extent, exceeds that of any +other peak in the United States. One of the most interesting +glaciers is Carbon on the north slope, reaching down to a +lower elevation than any other; the most readily reached +is the Nisqually, five miles in length; and the largest is the +White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, +Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, +North and South Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important +secondary glaciers are Van Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Paradise, +and Interglacier.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 344px;"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +<img src="images/illo_p051.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p051-big.jpg">IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>The summit may be reached by five different routes. These +are the Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, +Ptarmigan Ridge, and Emmon's or the White Glacier route.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +The Paradise Valley (known also as the "Gibraltar") route, on +the south side, is by far the most popular, for it is well provided +with hotel accommodations, and both the government road and +Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the Clouds, at the +mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village at midnight, +arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about +5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the mountain, +at about 11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see +more than a hundred miles in every direction, far away to the +ocean on the west and into the great Inland Empire on the east. +The snow-capped peaks already noted are seen toward the +south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, Shuksan, +Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north; while the Mother, the +Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range +near by seem like mere foothills, between eight and nine thousand +feet below. No grander or more inspiring view may be +observed anywhere in the world.</p> + +<p>Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a +few, and always with the aid of an experienced guide. The +largest measure of real joy is found in the alpine "parks." The +best known and most frequented is along the Paradise River. +Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, are Indian +Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others +requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest +and most beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews +and Grand Parks.</p> + +<p>Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural +amphitheaters present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any underbrush +exists in them but many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and +trees abound; three hundred distinct plants are said to exist; +pretty lakelets gem their surface; and all are drained by +trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing waterfalls +of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting +glaciers to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, +lead to every point of interest and extend clear around the +mountain. Camping places are plentiful or accommodations +may be obtained at comfortable hotels.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p053.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="MOUNT RAINIER—LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p053-big.jpg">MOUNT RAINIER—LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p054.png" width="500" height="241" alt="THE COLUMBIA RIVER" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>This wonderful and majestic river whose history is enhanced +with legend, offers the exploring tourist or curious sight-seer +unusual opportunities to indulge his unbounded imagination +and to satisfy his desire for the spectacular in nature. +Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest importance in +northwest history, while interwoven with the incontrovertible +happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. Overlooking +its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific northwest, +upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its +persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous +cities of the country.</p> + +<p>One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with +many important tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five +times the area of the state of Washington. By a series of +cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold turns, it flows nearly 1,400 +miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, before finally delivering +the waters gathered from many sources to the great Pacific +ocean.</p> + +<p>Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast +expenditures to increase its value as a navigable stream. Near +Stevenson the government has built locks at a cost of several +million dollars, enabling large vessels to reach The Dalles, at +present the head of navigation. At Celilo, two hundred miles +from its mouth, where, in twelve miles distance, the river falls +eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are being constructed. +When these are completed, merchant vessels can go direct from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four hundred +miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in +places by rapids and falls.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p055.jpg" width="400" height="95" alt="INDIAN CANOE RACE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p055-big.jpg">INDIAN CANOE RACE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Important as this river is from a commercial and geographic +standpoint, the greatest interest by far centers in the +phenomena that are of its own creation, visible every mile from +its mouth to its source. A journey upon its surface rivals one +along the historic Rhine, the picturesque Hudson, or the beautiful +St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the wilder +grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the +earth and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and +describe these ever so briefly would require an entire volume. +This short chapter is a suggestion only that "By reason of +scenic grandeur, absorbing interest of physical features, the +majesty and mystery of its flow through some of the wildest as +well as some of the most beautiful regions of the globe, and at +the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the greatest +of the oceans, this 'Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike historian, +scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature."</p> + +<p>In many places the natural appearances are the same now +as when Gray, Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the Northwest +and Hudson's Bay Company men first viewed its banks, with +the exception that the shores have in places been denuded of their +largest timber and either a younger growth has inherited the +dominion or portions have been claimed for the agriculturist.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 351px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p056.jpg" width="351" height="600" alt="ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p056-big.jpg">ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> + +<p>Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, +"chugging" away from their moorings in the early dawn and +returning at the setting of the sun heavily laden with the famous +Columbia river salmon that feed thousands throughout the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which there are many +in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are conspicuous +and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the products +of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but +far from the sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the +same waters that conceal the treasures being sought.</p> + +<p>Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washington +side and in Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River +is reached, one will have passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, +Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, Stevenson, White Salmon, and +Wallula on the Washington side, besides many important cities +on the Oregon shores: namely, Astoria, the site of the first settlement +on the Columbia; Portland, the largest city in Oregon, +near the mouth of the Willamette; and The Dalles, for many +years the head of navigation. Kennewick and Pasco are located +just beyond the mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive +full benefit from the improved navigation conditions of the +future. Between these larger towns is many a tiny hamlet, +while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty dwellings +slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler +dissatisfied with his own home.</p> + +<p>At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of wonderful +basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure +of many tints. Further away a murmuring brook or crystal +streamlet may be heard hurrying down a rocky hillside or winding +between towering cliffs, adding its share to the tuneful +sound of the powerful orchestra that seems everywhere to be +heard. Constantly shifting color and shade attract the eye and +tones of varying quality please the ear.</p> + +<p>When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, +stretching toward the north, broad areas where man has mingled +his skill with Nature's works. Green fields, sometimes fringed +with willows, near the waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm +houses, and dairies, are visible as far as the eye can see. +These evidences of man's encroachments are noted all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which city, the oldest in +the state, a tourist should linger long enough to appreciate the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +region which arrested the attention of our earliest settlers and +inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A +bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it +with the beautiful city of Portland.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p058.jpg" width="350" height="600" alt="THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p058-big.jpg">THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is +ascended, until the mountainous region is reached and the roar +of the cascades is distinctly heard. These cascades, according +to Indian lore, were created by the falling of the +"Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from shore to shore +and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on +the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a +mighty river peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular +buttresses on either hand, the forest areas that +apparently fell from above, trees growing out of the water, +petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within the vicinity of Stevenson, +and many other freaks of nature all seem to strengthen +the evidence on which this story is based.</p> + +<p>Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples +of Nature's diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle +Rock, or Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 +feet high; St. Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, +considered one of the wonders of the American continent; Oneonta +Gorge, almost concealed behind towering rocks; Multnomah +Falls, a matchless waterfall with a sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape +Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster Rock, unsurpassed for +beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape Eternity, a massive +precipice 1,000 feet in height.</p> + +<p>Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates +climbing some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over +the wooded river banks and visiting the rustic towns that lie at +the foot of the mountains and guard the gateway to the alluring +valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat of Skamania county, overlooking +the cascade locks, and Carson, are several hot springs +where accommodations for the most particular are available. +From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. +forest nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +Government Hot Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for +climbing, offer expansive views of the surrounding country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p060.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p060-big.jpg">THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON.</a><br />Photo by Asahel Curtis.</span> +</div> + +<p>A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley +takes one to Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves +in the foothills of Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, +a pow-wow place for the Indians. On the way, hundreds of +scientifically developed orchards, and oat fields yielding over 100 +bushels to the acre, are passed; also the Northwest Electric Company's +power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse power, +supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the massive +bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending +color may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia +River and the mountains to the east and the west, while +the entire Hood River Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is +visible on the Oregon side.</p> + +<p>The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River +is a journey of surprises. The railroad follows the winding +canyon past pretty waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and +emerges finally into a wide, fertile plain overlooking the Columbia +basin. Fields of waving grain and other products exhibit +the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those desiring can motor +from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to the Columbia +via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 +road across his 6,000-acre farm.</p> + +<p>Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before +being joined by the Snake River, it has drained a region +noted for agricultural superiority and contributed liberally to +the needs of irrigation. The "Big Bend" on the left, and the +valleys watered by its tributaries from the right, are described +under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire."</p> + +<p>Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder +scenes are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, +native trees more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course +of the stream more winding. Startling phenomena appear in +rapid succession, and scenes unimagined will astonish the tourist +who spends a little time in re-exploring this great river, for +ages a prize eagerly sought by the searchers for the unknown.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p062.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE.<br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p063.png" width="500" height="232" alt="THE INLAND EMPIRE" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between +the Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland +sea—the waters left imprisoned when the ocean had receded. +After many ages these pent up waters burst the restraining +barriers and forced their way to the ocean, creating the deep +canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad plain, now +known as the Inland Empire.</p> + +<p>What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed +into a "Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one +of the bountiful "bread baskets of the world" while its valleys +yield generously of nearly all the products of husbandry. Near +its borders the mountains, with their retinue of trees, flowers +and grassy meadows, reach as far as the invisible power permits +and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, to wind through +and through and distribute the welcome waters that enkindle the +irrigated districts with life and activity.</p> + +<p>Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this +wonderful plain, but the brief description contemplated in these +few pages must be confined chiefly to Washington. The curious +sight-seer or the serious homeseeker can well afford to spend +many days exploring this region, marveling at both the mighty +forces of creation and the embellishments of man. Under far +more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now than when +the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. +Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus +Whitman, supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable +courage with the trusty saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner +or the rude river raft. Today the palatial cars of four trans<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>continental +lines make daily trips across the state; branch lines +accommodate the territory north and south; and parts not +reached by rail are served by well constructed thorofares.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p064.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="SUNNYSIDE CANAL—MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE" title="" /> +<div class='attrib'><i>Copyright by Asahel Curtis</i></div> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p064-big.jpg">SUNNYSIDE CANAL—MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE</a></span> +<div class='poem'>"<i>And the old wilderness is changed</i><br /> +<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>To cultured vale and hill</i>"</span><br /> +</div></div> + + +<div class='center'><br />CHIEF FEATURES.</div> + +<p>In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important +features are the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan +region; the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the +Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville and Pend Oreille; +the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake +River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their +"coulees"; and the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low +bare ridges of a semi-mountainous character which relieve the +prairie effect and permit cycloramic views of the surrounding +territory. Among these are the Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe +Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while a number of spurs +from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, help +form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />HOW TO REACH THEM.</div> + +<p>These different sections may be easily reached from almost +any city in the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can +make a quick yet comprehensive survey of eastern Washington +in two ways. After seeing the immediate Spokane vicinity and +visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the north, either automobiles +or Great Northern trains will convey them up the Colville +Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, +whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and +down the San Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, +whence the journey may be continued to Wenatchee down +the Okanogan Valley, both by auto and rail. Side trips may be +taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake Chelan canyon, as +well as to numerous other places of interest. From Wenatchee +the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures +an interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of +the Big Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by +making a tour through the Palouse to the Snake River and +Walla Walla country. Transportation leads from there direct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +to the Columbia River, and the Yakima and Kittitas valleys. +The Horse Heaven may be reached from Kennewick and Pasco, +or from Prosser.</p> + + +<p>The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the +Palouse, Snake River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas +valleys, from Ellensburg a scenic overland route may be taken +direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop may be made to include +Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big Bend and +the Spokane Country.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE YAKIMA VALLEY.</div> + +<p>Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich +territory tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes +Keechelus and Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the +Columbia—a total distance of nearly 175 miles with a range of +altitude, at the water's edge, varying from 2,250 down to 340 +feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima Valley proper, the Kittitas +and a number of minor valleys, including the Naches, the +Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and +the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just +south of "Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are +located, two enterprising cities, vieing for supremacy over the +rich south half of Yakima county. Further south is Prosser, +county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is North Yakima +with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region +and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, +is Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima +county constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima +Tribes dwell peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the +soil and occasionally entertaining the people with many a +"Round Up," or Wild West Show. At Fort Simcoe is their +school, deserving of a visit from anyone interested.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p066.jpg" width="600" height="342" alt="THE YAKIMA VALLEY—MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p066-big.jpg">THE YAKIMA VALLEY—MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and +bunch grass, is irrigable land enough to support a population +of a million people; for the total water capacity as surveyed by +the United States Government is estimated at 927,000 acre +feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. Less than a third of this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +is at present cultivated and watered from small canals, built by +private capital, and from the two largest ones in the state, constructed +by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter are +the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the Sunnyside, +capable of irrigating 100,000 acres.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 275px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p067.jpg" width="275" height="217" alt="A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.</span> +</div> + +<p>A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima +river unfolds a <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'panaroma'">panorama</ins> of unusual breadth and interest. Instead +of the heavy +forests of the west +side, the sage brush +struggles for existence +just above the +main ditches; but the +country below is +checkered with orchards, +farms, and +gardens; and cotton +woods protect +the banks of the +streams. Impressive +is the sight in springtime +when fruit trees are all in bloom and the Blossom Festival, +participated in by a hundred-thousand people, is ushering in +the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches of +color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester.</p> + + +<p>From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most +perfect form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, +vegetable gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected +and crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and +rivers, protected by the brown hills near by and watched over +by the mountains in the distance, supply composition for +pictures that in detail and variety must discourage all competition.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE WENATCHEE VALLEY.</div> + +<p>Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee +Valley, reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot +hills of the Cascades. This, too, was a desolate brown slope<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +until the effects of irrigation were felt on its rich volcanic ash +soil. After that only ten years were necessary to convert it +into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of the forlorn +looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the valley +and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of +blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. +Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens +below, are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters +that irrigate the land; while dodging from one side of the vale +to the other, or paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the +Wenatchee river hastens onward towards the Columbia.</p> + +<p>The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered +hills, spurs of the Cascades, over which many trails lead to +charming mountain lakes and streams, where summer homes +are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. The east opens +up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the Columbia +River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in all +the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in +the vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported +in affluence by successful fruit culture or gardening.</p> + +<p>Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including +Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central Washington, with +a population of about 5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee +and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth near the head of the valley; +and Cashmere, midway between the two. The pervading spirit +is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee red apple +is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 annually.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />LAKE CHELAN.</div> + +<p>Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest +sheets of fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American +continent. It is one of a number of beautiful lakes found +throughout the highlands in the vicinity of the upper Columbia, +but on account of its thrilling beauty and easy approach has +become one of the favorite resorts for the entire northwest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p069.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="THE WENATCHEE VALLEY—NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p069-big.jpg">THE WENATCHEE VALLEY—NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE.</a><br />Photo by Curtis & Miller.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes +from the Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>River boats, automobile stages, or Great Northern trains allow +three principal modes of transportation, each of which reveals +different scenes of interest. During summer months the overland +trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant and presents the +fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The return +might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the +Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course +of four miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower.</p> + + +<p>Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, +the Columbia, and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan +canyon reaches in places nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters +occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 feet below the surface. +Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to Stehekin, views +are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color blending +are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the +traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness +of the whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy +with divine nature. Among features of striking scenic +importance are Railroad Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 +miles, the Stehekin River, and Rainbow Falls.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 345px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p071.jpg" width="345" height="600" alt="THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p071-big.jpg">THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.</a></span> +</div> +<p>This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating +with fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open +forests of spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the +homeseeker, pleasure for the sportsman, and continuous scenes +of interest for the tourist are suggested. Here one can yet feel +the presence of the true western spirit of frontiership, for this +part of the state was the last to be thrown open to settlers; and +the Indians are still in full possession of the Colville Indian +reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the south +central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river +to the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the +valleys yield liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, +and the higher lands are devoted to grain and stock raising. +Lumbering plays its part and mining for precious metals assumes +greater importance than elsewhere in the state.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<p>The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and +the Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil +and the Methow are dependent on highway conveyances. Of +extreme interest is the ride from Spokane up the Colville and +Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with a short side trip to Republic, +the leading gold producing city in the state. The railroad +crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing the +unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion +of King George of England and the next back under the Stars +and Stripes. Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque +canyons are invaded before arriving at the heights from +which Oroville appears far below—requiring an hour for the +train to descend by a series of remarkable switchbacks.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p072.jpg" width="400" height="200" alt="COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p072-big.jpg">COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in +their infancy, for its development has been so recent; but therein +lies much of its charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading +city is Newport, the county seat, prettily located on both +sides of the river, half in Idaho and half in Washington. In +Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, and Colville, the +largest city in the region, with a population of over 1,500 people. +A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's Indian +Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other +interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p073.jpg" width="349" height="600" alt="IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p073-big.jpg">IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p074.jpg" width="600" height="345" alt="THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK—MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE DISTANCE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p074-big.jpg">THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK—MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE DISTANCE.</a><br />Photo by Frank Palmer.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><a name="THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY" id="THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY"></a>THE SPOKANE COUNTRY.</div> + +<p>From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire +are easily reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city +and two others operate trains; while a network of electric lines +serves the immediate vicinity, penetrating the territory as +far south as Colfax, Palouse, and Moscow; southwest to Medical +Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden Lake and Coeur +d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic +sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each +mode of transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills +nearest Spokane are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther +away are forests of pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing +many lakes teeming with trout and black bass. Within a +radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain lakes, thirty-eight +of which are ideally located and supplied with all necessary equipment +for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second largest +fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden +Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National +Forest Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; +Liberty Lake, seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; +Spirit Lake, forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; +and Twin Lakes, thirty-three miles.</p> + +<p>The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. +They are neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and +Olympics, but they are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak +in eastern Washington is Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty +miles northeast of the city. From its summit one may look out +into the three northwestern states of Oregon, Idaho and Washington, +and into the province of British Columbia; and count +seventeen different lakes and rivers.</p> + +<p>Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the +valleys of the Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root +mountains are approached on the east. The roads westward +and southward lead past well cultivated gardens, green meadows +and groves, until finally is spread before one a sea of grain—continuous +wheat fields—the Big Bend to the west and the Palouse +to the south.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 344px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p076.jpg" width="344" height="600" alt="INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p076-big.jpg">INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 230px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p077.jpg" width="230" height="300" alt="METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p077-big.jpg">METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable +roads in America on account of the high class material of +which it is constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses +the state of Idaho and connects with roads leading to the National +Parks in Montana. This valley more than thirty miles in +length, with an average width of eight miles, comprises a level +irrigated country cut up into intensive garden and orchard +tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising apples, +pears, cherries, small +fruits, garden truck, +poultry, and live +stock. The advantages +of abundant +water power, proximity +to a great city, +rapid transit facilities, +and a healthful +climate, are quickly +transforming the region +into one of attractive +suburban +homes.</p> + + +<p>The Spokane River +drops 1,280 feet in a +distance of 100 miles, +and 130 feet within +the city limits, falling +precipitously +70 feet in the heart of the business section, over a dam +200 feet wide. On both sides is built the city sloping towards +its waters and overlooking the country beyond. Extensive +economic developments are taking place, there being seven +distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power +plants, manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. +Historical events are associated with Fort George +Wright, named for a famous Indian fighter; Indian Canyon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane, a pow-wow +place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first government +Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early +fur traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p078.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p078-big.jpg">SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.</a></span> +</div> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE WHEAT PLATEAU.</div> + +<p>The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big +bend of the Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which +stretches eastward until it blends with the rolling Palouse, one +of the richest farm regions in the northwest, and southeast +across the Snake River to the Blue Mountains; although considerable +wheat is raised in the country lying between the +Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties to +the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the +waving heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the +horizon. The combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, +is a familiar example of the immensity of the machinery needed +when gathering the mammoth crop, which for the entire state +is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels annually.</p> + +<p>The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" or old river +courses, sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is +practiced and where strings of small alkali lakes have been +scattered. Two of the most important are Moses Coulee in +Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming the boundary line +between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old bed of +the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the +Quincy Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land +to be some day irrigated by water conducted under the Columbia +river from Wenatchee Lake in Chelan county.</p> + +<p>The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, +Moses Lake, near which irrigation from wells is successfully +carried on, and Rock Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the +Palouse. The most important river is the Palouse which +creates the Palouse Falls just before joining the Snake River. +Near this stream are several prosperous cities, including Colfax, +Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College and Experiment +Station.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p080.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="PRIEST RAPIDS—SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p080-big.jpg">PRIEST RAPIDS—SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND</a><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br />THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY.</div> + +<p>The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a +canyon of 1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a natural +dividing line between Whitman and Franklin counties on the +north, and Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the +south. Its warm canyon is famous for early fruits and berries +which are shipped in carloads to eastern and western points.</p> + +<p>Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all +four counties to the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally +by orchards which assume their greatest proportions in the +beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla valleys. Over this rich +country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns supreme, her authority +being limited only by the Columbia and Snake rivers, or +the Blue Mountains; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy +and Clarkston are important centers in their own districts.</p> + +<p>Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wallula, +the site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla +Walla. When once seen, no words are needed to tell why these +lovely plains, all ready for the planting and moistened with +sufficient rainfall annually, were so attractive to the early settlers, +and inspired the first serious efforts at colonization.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE COLUMBIA RIVER.</div> + +<p>All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through +the Columbia river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fraternity. +The grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the +region, it supplies unlimited water for successful irrigation and +power purposes, and in places still provides the principal mode +of transportation. Between Kettle Falls and the Snake river are +a number of important rapids, chief of which is Priest Rapids, +just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a descent of seventy +feet and a possible horse power of half a million.</p> + +<p>Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of +Kennewick and Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to +the sea as soon as the Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest +elevation in the Inland Empire and surrounded by a large area +of irrigable land, they are served by three transcontinental railroads, +permitting rapid transit to any part of the northwest.</p> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p081.png" width="500" height="233" alt="OUR SCENIC HIGHWAYS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of +roads which, finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineering +and commercial importance the French highways, and in +scenic grandeur the mountain passes of Switzerland. Easy approaches +are being constructed to every town and hamlet and +into every farming community. So vigorously has the work +been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, +except Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its +mountain recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles +have been already completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth +of broad thorofares, boulevards, and country highways. The +most important highways built and maintained at state expense +are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland Empire, the Olympic and +the National Park.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the +state of California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven +miles north of Washington's boundary line, a total distance of +about two thousand miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is within +the state of Washington, connecting Vancouver on the Columbia +with Blaine at the international line. It traverses nine counties +of Washington, containing forty-eight per cent of the wealth +and fifty-five per cent of the population, and passes through nine +county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, Vancouver, +Kalama. Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and +Bellingham.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 343px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p082.jpg" width="343" height="600" alt="ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p082-big.jpg">ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> + +<p>From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward +through the prune and plum orchards of Clarke county, where +more of these trees grow than in all other parts of the state +combined. Along the banks of the historic Columbia and through +the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it winds toward Kelso, famous +for smelt fisheries; and Castle Rock, the gateway to Mount St. +Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north fork of the +picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley is followed +to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly +growing railroad centers having a combined population of +15,500 people. Groves, orchards, gardens and prairies line the +smooth gravelly road from here to Olympia, where the first view +of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire to swerve off toward +Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly completed +Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, +is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins +and draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. +Rising above the famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to +cross the oak moor lands marking the beginning of Tacoma's +playgrounds and reminding one of southern England, the road +soon enters Tacoma, third city in population in the state.</p> + +<p>Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, +touching at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; +at Auburn and Kent, centers of a rich dairy section; and at +Renton, bristling with manufacturing importance near the +southern end of beautiful Lake Washington. A dozen miles more +and you are on the streets of Seattle, metropolis of the northwest +and third city in size west of the Rocky Mountains.</p> + +<p>Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds +along by Lake Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty +lakes, entering green woods, intersecting meadows, crossing +streamlets, rising to sightly plateaus and descending again to +peaceful valleys before it reaches Everett, a city of 32,000, located +on an eminence overlooking the waters of the Sound.</p> + +<p>The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway +skirts the Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish +river in the Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +road branches off to Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Burlington, +where it intersects the Skagit county road leading from +Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one may appreciate the famous +Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," where 173 +bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land protected +from the sea and river by immense dykes.</p> + +<p>Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is +reached, said to be the most picturesque on the entire route: for +the Sound is plainly seen from the shaded highway which clings +to the side of Chuckanut Mountain, while the electric interurban +and the Great Northern railway traverse the waterfront below. +Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has innumerable attractions to hold +the tourist, who still has twenty miles' journey if he would follow +the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit at Blaine, the most +northwesterly municipality in the United States. Near by is the +Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the northwest; +where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />SUNSET HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting +through automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and +connecting the western with the eastern counties. Throughout +its full four hundred miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces +the tourist to scenes which for diversity and pleasant surprises, +varying from rugged mountains and roaring waterfalls to +peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, can nowhere +be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades are +never more than five per cent.</p> + +<p>Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises +northeastward to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just +below the town of Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the +same name, the "Niagara of the West." This immense stream +of water falling 268 feet, is now harnessed to supply power and +light to the cities and towns of Puget Sound. Following the +banks of this river the highway penetrates entrancing forests +and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and river +are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains +puffing towards the summit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p085.jpg" width="350" height="600" alt="AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p085-big.jpg">AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + +<p>Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of +the Yakima, and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake +Keechelus, where the government is building a huge dam for +storing water to irrigate the Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Passing +the southern extremity of Lake Kachees, another deep +mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal shipping center, +enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the cultured city of +Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of the state +normals.</p> + +<p>The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a +5,200-foot pass, permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier +and Hood. The banks of the Columbia are followed to Wenatchee, +the metropolis of north central Washington and the +famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it proceeds +along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a winding +canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big +Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Waterville, +the county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly eastward +to continue in an almost unbroken line through expansive +wheat fields towards Spokane, the metropolitan city of the Inland +Empire, over a hundred miles away.</p> + +<p>At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth +while to linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to +be the old bed of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has +attracted attention from geographers of international reputation. +Wilbur, Davenport, the county seat of Lincoln county, +and Reardan, besides many smaller settlements, almost lost in +the midst of the great wheat fields, appear before the thin +woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY.</div> + +<p>At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the Inland +Empire Road, a southern route to Spokane via Walla +Walla. Following the Wenas Valley to North Yakima, it continues +southeast through the Union Gap and along the Sunnyside<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a +splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance appears. +From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and entrance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +to the Horse Heaven country, the road drops toward the +Columbia river and soon reaches Kennewick, the home of early +strawberries, and Pasco, county seat of Franklin county.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p087.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p087-big.jpg">LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD.</a><br />Photo by Frank Palmer.</span> +</div> + +<p>From here the Central Washington Highway threads the extensive +wheat fields toward the northeast, passing through Connell, +Lind, Ritzville, and Sprague, all important wheat shipping +centers; and Cheney, the site of another state normal, fifteen +miles southwest from the city of Spokane.</p> + +<p>The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city +of Walla Walla; but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Columbia +county, it divides, uniting again near Rosalia, twenty-five +miles south of Spokane. The shorter route trends northeast, +crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes through Colfax, +county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse Valley. The +other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, enters +Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the +eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending +northward it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields; enters +Pullman, home of the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakesdale; +joins the other branch at the county boundary line and +soon reaches the southern outskirts of Spokane.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p088.jpg" width="400" height="148" alt="INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA.</span> +</div> + +<p>From Spokane this road presses northward through the +Colville Valley to the Columbia, and thence to the international +boundary line, having previously passed at Deer Park the +Arcadia orchard, largest commercial apple orchard in the world; +Loon Lake, a summer resort; Chewelah, a mining town surrounded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +by a dairying country; and Colville, county seat of +Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant +contrast is this northern extension, regaining the mountains +and evergreen forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious +waterfalls, and the chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and +green meadows.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br />OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS.</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p089.jpg" width="300" height="191" alt="ANACORTES ROAD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANACORTES ROAD.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel +to Lake Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, +will form a complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from +which it derives its name. Winding along at the foot of the +mountains, it connects the leading cities of the district and exposes +some of the most scenic features of the Sound country, +including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Grays Harbor, +and occasionally +the Pacific +Ocean. The +principal cities +touched at are +Shelton, Port +Townsend, Port +Angeles, Hoquiam, +Aberdeen, +Elma and +Olympia.</p> + + +<p>The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rainier +National Park, whence it bears southward to the headwaters +of the Cowlitz, crosses to the Chehalis Valley and, after connecting +with Chehalis and Centralia, leads southwest, over the low +coast range to Raymond and South Bend on Willapa Bay, +and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia.</p> + +<p>Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade mountains. +Two are nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass +Highway, paralleling the Sunset as far as North Yakima, and +one along the north bank of the Columbia. A third will sometime +cross and connect the Skagit Valley with the Methow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p090.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p090-big.jpg">WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p091.png" width="500" height="242" alt="A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of approval +from the followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs +are devoted to the opportunities for the chase and the plentifulness +of game fish and birds. Of course, the real sportsman would +rather discover the prey for himself. To tell minutely where +every prize is to be found would be like disclosing the end of an +interesting story before the beginning had been read. But even +if it were well to do so, every page in this publication would be +needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, +every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the +quarry.</p> + +<p>That the common species of game are plentiful is superfluous +to say. On holidays and at week ends, during the open +season, it is a familiar sight to witness the khaki-suited brave +looking sportsmen, with guns or fish baskets and rods, clambering +onto the trains or hiking to the nearest point where the +welcome woods and the realm of habitation meet. It is equally +common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along at +the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, +vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals.</p> + +<p>Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent +are the Chinese pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hungarian +partridge, and native prairie chickens; all are found +along the streams or in the clearings and fields of nearly every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +part of the state. Blue grouse are quite plentiful in western +Washington and in the wooded sections of eastern Washington.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan Highlands and in +several of the western counties. All species of ducks are to be +found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary +thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Empire; +while geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in +eastern Washington.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 340px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p092.jpg" width="340" height="600" alt="THE ANGLER'S REWARD." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ANGLER'S REWARD.<br />Photo by B. C. Collier</span> +</div> + +<p>Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real +fighting trout as Washington; including especially the mountain, +rainbow, cut throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, +and eastern brook, in all lakes and mountain streams. Black bass +and perch are very plentiful in the land-locked lakes; and certain +sections produce also many varieties of white fish, sun fish, +croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget Sound, the harbors +and the Columbia River contain many species of salmon.</p> + +<p>The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, +found chiefly in the hills and mountains, although in some localities +it invades the domains of domestic animals. The leading +varieties noted are the mule and black tail, there being also a +few white tail. In the Olympic region are large herds of elk +and a few in the southwest and northeastern counties. These, +however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain goat and +sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades; while the +black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and mountains; +also occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These +latter, however, keep themselves far removed from the main traveled +roads; only by much care are they located, so that the +timid need have no fear of wandering in the woods alone.</p> + +<p>In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of +the year, five trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a +number by separate counties. The state hatcheries alone planted +4,399,050 trout in 1913. The common birds are propagated +and set free at both public and private expense.</p> + +<p>With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and +counties blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, +the true sportsman will never regret casting his lot with +the state of Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be +encouraged to the fullest degree.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p094.jpg" width="346" height="600" alt="IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p094-big.jpg">IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p095.jpg" width="500" height="239" alt="CITIES AND SUGGESTED TRIPS" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural +setting, and reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic +design of the people who dwell within them. In western +Washington they are usually protected by verdure covered hills, +and built to overlook the Sound, the harbors, or the rivers. The +smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams which supply power +and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible.</p> + +<p>The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and +adorned with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking +in the Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually +in sight. In the northern counties, however, the native +trees and mountains again become more prominent.</p> + +<p>All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable +hotels. Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and +other public buildings are of modern structure; the streets are +generally paved; practically all have electric lights and pure +running water. The homes are planned both for beauty and +comfort, and are often surrounded by green lawns or gardens +where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers reach perfection.</p> + +<p>The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the +larger centers, and the more important trips from each. They +are arranged to represent a tour about the state and in the +order in which one might visit all, or certain ones only, with +the least expenditure of time. The cities given have commercial +organizations prepared to give further information regarding +their respective localities.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="columbia" id="columbia"></a> +<img src="images/illo_facing_p096.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_facing_p096-big.jpg">THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON</a><br /><i>Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.</i></span> +<div class='poem'><span style="margin-left: 7em;">"<i>Superbly flowing</i></span><br /> +<i>By piny banks basaltiform, romantic</i>"<br /></div></div> + +<p><b>SPOKANE:</b> Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest +city in the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +per cent in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River +with wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad +centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating +on their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, +theaters, public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in +the northwest. Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at +more than $2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city +in the United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with +broad highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There +is a boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing +pool a mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One +may see large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, +and many big development projects within a limited area. It is the +home of the North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per +cent of the apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana.</p> + + +<p>A few of the more important trips should include the following:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in Eastern Washington.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still there).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal qualities of +water; one of state's hospitals here. Return by way of Cheney, +home of one of state normal schools.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to Hayden Lake.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at cost of $194,000.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on Waikiki Road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich agricultural valley, +good roads, mountains in sight, many lakes.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline Falls; see Box +and Grandview Canyons; river falls 400 feet in 12 miles.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse country.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State College at Pullman, +one of the most remarkable rides—train, auto, or electric.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver mine in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See also "<a href="#THE_SPOKANE_COUNTRY">Spokane Country</a>" under the "Inland Empire."</div> + + +<p><b>WALLA WALLA:</b> (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one +time said to "have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more +pretty girls than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. +One of the richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to +Vancouver, oldest city in the state, and home of first white woman +in the Northwest. Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered +with waving grain, surround it; while many a little stream, +protected by cottonwoods and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. +The N. P. and O. W. R. & N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway +pass through. Trees line the well paved streets and produce a particularly +artistic effect. Here is located Whitman College, on the site +where Stevens made his famous treaty with the Indians; the State +Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old +Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest bank in state.</p> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for wild and +rugged canyons and summer resorts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only pass to the Wallowa +country in Oregon; +Wallowa Lake.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bingham Hot Springs, +40 miles; Clinker Hot +Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The famous Whitman +monument at Waiilatpui, +about 6 miles +west.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The Columbia and +Snake rivers; Palouse +Falls; the Little and +Big Meadows.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vast wheat, barley and +rye farms, some of +which contain 4,000 +acres and more; also +large stock ranches.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The Touchet Valley, +where diversified +farming is successful.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, via Inland +Empire Highway.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p097.jpg" width="300" height="239" alt="A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>NORTH YAKIMA:</b> Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the +largest body of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. +All points in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are +easily reached. Business and public buildings are of artistic design. +City is symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It +grew from a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace +with the rapid development evident all up and down the valley. A +blossom festival is held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair +in September. A sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles +through alfalfa fields and orchards where the results of irrigation +are displayed. Good automobile roads extend in every direction.</p> + + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive view of valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the narrows to Soda +Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the return Mt. Rainier +and Mt. Adams are plainly seen.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline motor, automobile, +or the N. P. Ry. The towns of Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, +Mabton, Granger, Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, +will be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in the state.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the Cascades—summer +resorts and storage reservoirs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of Basalt, following the +American and Bumping rivers to the summit of the Cascades.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past "Painted Rocks."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'>Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain and glacial +scenery here rivals the Canadian Rockies.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas—good roads and scenery.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas—beautiful scenery.</div> + + +<p><b>ELLENSBURG:</b> Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 +acres are irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 +acres more. A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and +dairy farms gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where +grand mountain scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. +One of the three State Normals is here. Splendid highways.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good view of Mt. +Stewart (9,470 feet).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; perpendicular +cliffs on either side.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and Cle Elum, 40 +miles. At these three beautiful lake resorts, in the heart of +the Cascades, the Government is building, at mammoth expense, +a system of storage dams for watering the Yakima Valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table Mountain, by a +5,200-foot pass from which Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other +peaks are visible.</div> + + +<p><b>WENATCHEE:</b> The metropolis of North Central Washington, and +gateway to the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and +Lake Chelan regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and +Wenatchee rivers, with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles +away. One continuous orchard is seen up and down both valleys. +Auto roads lead in all directions to innumerable points of interest, +and the navigable Columbia provides transportation for many +miles. A labyrinth of lakes and beautiful farms are within easy reach. +The mountain scenery is impressive. For a commanding view one +should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the +smoke of Walla Walla are visible from some points. Population 5,000.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and Rainbow Falls by +Red Apple route and auto stage and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 +miles from Lake Chelan—a star trip.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. Horseshoe Basin.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a beautiful natural +park, between Lake Chelan and Entiat Valley, reached by +Government trail; good hotels.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, wheat fields.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or train, boat part way if +preferred. A week or more could be spent to advantage. Historical +sights are numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian +Mission. Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in state. +Big irrigation projects are seen. Near Oroville are Osoyoos, +Wanacut and Epsom Salts Lakes, and the Similkameen river. +Okanogan, county seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; irrigation, +captivating scenery, splendid roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry counties.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake.</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p099.jpg" width="364" height="600" alt="OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p099-big.jpg">OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, from which +Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, and the government +fish hatcheries are easily reached; also Icicle River by horseback +over government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, +(auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite mountain resort +23 miles northwest.</div> + + +<p><b>SNOHOMISH:</b> "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in +Snohomish county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country +just east of Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and +river boats, as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips.</p> + + +<p><b>EVERETT:</b> "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. +Located on a sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish +River. Views on every side are superb. The Cascades and +Olympics are clearly visible, especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and +many lesser peaks, including Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. +Parks, boulevards and playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic +completeness. The only arsenic plant in the United States is here. +It is an important manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, +machinery and paper. Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country +extends to the Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is +held in July. The G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three +interurbans center here, while automobile roads, including the Pacific +Highway, lead to the mountains and to lake resorts.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from which may be +reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and Bridal Veil Falls; Lake +Serene, Lake Isabel and many scenic peaks easily climbed.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and Olney Falls.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, hunting, camping.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, and Mt. Pilchuck.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic Hot Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes and resorts; +Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other towns—some excellent roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and Tulalip Indian +Reservation.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower Stillaguamish +where lie rich dyked lands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat fields.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Seattle 1-1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2-1/2 hours to the north, +by Pacific Highway.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe with its large condensery; +state reformatory here.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro Woolley and La +Conner.</div> + + +<p><b>SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:</b> Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, +Sedro Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, +famous both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest +farm land in the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes +are built to protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have +been known as high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is +nowhere in the state more important, two condenseries being supported<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +in Mount Vernon. Two main railroad lines with branches, besides an +interurban, serve the section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County +Highway cross at Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, +Anacortes, Everett and east into the mountains, visible from almost +every point. Many beautiful lakes in region.</p> + + +<p><b>ANACORTES:</b> A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity +of Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and +Sound steamers supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway +starts here. Salmon canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing +and ship building may be seen to advantage.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry and continue to +Coupeville and Fort Casey. Splendid roads; rhododendrons.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water always in sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all Sound points.</div> + + +<p><b>BELLINGHAM:</b> Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern +Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the +largest salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills +on coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount +Maker are visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the +state normal schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay +where the ships of the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan +Islands; fishing craft may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have +been provided. Pretty roads lead through big timber in various directions. +At its door stands Mount Baker, one of main tourist objectives +of the northwest, and one of the most interesting mountains on the continent. +The annual Marathon races, participated in by the athletes of +the world, are made to its summit and back to Bellingham.</p> + + +<p>Suggested tours:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited time.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan islands; boat +leaves every morning. See page 33.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also Deception Pass.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; Government bulb +farm, in full bloom during April and May; Country Club.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; Nooksack +Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through big timber.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United States. Birch Bay +and Lincoln Park, visiting also Custer, Lynden and Ferndale.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Chuckanut Hill—view of Sound and surrounding country.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised—a rare sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver and the ocean—splendid +water trips.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or train.</div> + + +<p><b>PORT ANGELES:</b> Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and +nearer the ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. +Harbor is one of the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive +improvements are taking place. It has one of the largest saw and +shingle mills in the world. No prettier scenery anywhere.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p102.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p102-big.jpg">OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot Springs.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 miles southwest, +in the heart of the Olympics. Hotel cost half a million.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to Mt. Olympus.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built at cost of .,000,000.00 +to furnish light and power for entire Olympic Peninsula.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see largest irrigation +tracts in Western Washington. Mountains and Sound are +continually in view. Trip may be continued to Port Townsend +or along the Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor.</div> + + +<p><b>PORT TOWNSEND:</b> "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on +Quimper Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery +Bay, and Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain +View Park a broad outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the +waters mentioned, the Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and +hundreds of minor details. Other beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and +Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls than elsewhere in Western Washington. +Pretty driveways decorated with rhododendrons, unusual boating +possibilities and easy approach to the Olympics, make the region +ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city is Fort Worden, headquarters +for the Puget Sound system of defenses, where the 6th +Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders daily programs. +Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound stop daily.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in state, and other +points on Whidbey Island.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, around Mt. +Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood Canal, returning +via Discovery Bay and Saints Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic +Highway leads clear through to Olympia.</div> + + +<p><b>SEATTLE:</b> Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population +of 325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, +valleys and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, +but sloping gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire +area is 94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, +Lake Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor +known as Elliott Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines +while an elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects +its thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. +There are also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all +points there is visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics +or Lake Washington and the Cascades.</p> + +<p>Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its +beauty. Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and +at the same time have increased the area of the city by supplying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +material for filling in the tide +flats, now occupied by the most +valuable factory sites. The forty-two +story Smith Building is the +highest in the world outside of +New York. At Salmon Bay the +Government is constructing its +second largest locks in a canal +to connect the Sound with Lake +Washington. Six transcontinental +lines have their terminals in +this city which is also the gateway +to Alaska and the home port +of the Great Circle Route.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 224px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p104.jpg" width="224" height="500" alt="SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW YORK." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p104-big.jpg">SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW YORK.</a></span> +</div> + +<p>Within the city one should visit:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Washington Canal Locks, +Fort Lawton, West Point +Lighthouse, Loyal Height.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>University of Washington and +A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, overlooking +Lake Washington.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lookout Tower at Volunteer +Park.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lookout on forty-two story +Smith Building.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>West Seattle and Alki Point—waterfront +camping sites inside +city limits.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Its many beautiful parks and +matchless boulevard system.</div> + + +<p>Outside trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, +3 or 4 days—auto or train.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of +America," and Lake Crescent, +via Port Angeles, 2 days—steamer +and auto.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 +day by Snoqualmie Pass Road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near North Bend.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See pages 29 and 33.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Whidbey Island—Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still Park, 1 or 2 days.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds—paved road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United States, half day. Several +good auto trips may be taken from here.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and Auburn. A paved +road extends all the way to Tacoma and beyond.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and resort region between +Seattle and Tacoma.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett on way.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain scenery, fishing and +hunting; 1 or 2 days.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the Olympics.</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p105.jpg" width="349" height="600" alt="HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p105-big.jpg">HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS.</a></span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p> + +<div class='hang1'>Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake Washington; go by +the Duwamish river route and return by Rainier Valley.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See description of other <a href="#Puget_sound">Puget Sound</a> cities, all reached quickly.</div> + + +<p><b>PUYALLUP:</b> A famous berry center in the rich Puyallup Valley. +Over a quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. +All Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans +and auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour +to Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and +the Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point +for Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern +entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p106.jpg" width="500" height="249" alt="TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS 38,000." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p106-big.jpg">TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS 38,000.</a></span> +</div> + + +<p><b>TACOMA:</b> Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance +in the state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the +great harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward +the west while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. +Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. +A complete system of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the +natural beauty. The residence portion of the city overlooks an extensive +manufacturing section which claims the largest meat packing +establishment in the west, the largest grain warehouse in the world, +and the largest smelter west of Butte City, with one of the tallest +cement smokestacks in the world. Tacoma is also the largest flour +milling center west of Minneapolis and the fifth city in exports and +imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed highway lead south +through a vast natural park consisting of broad prairies dotted with +lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or southeast into the +famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its improved parks +comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point Defiance park at northern +extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright Park in center of +city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different varieties.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> + +<p>Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, +seating 38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only +one on a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger +depot, model of its kind; and a speedway of 2-1/10 miles where the +motor races of the northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips outside of city:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park—see page 49.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy farms.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>American Lake, camping headquarters for the National Guard.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, summer resorts +on southern outskirts of city. Some of the best natural +roads in the world.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake Cushman and +the Olympic Mountains—excellent roads.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer—immense water power plants.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild Cat Falls.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm—dozens of lakes in vicinity.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover Creek.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, McNeils, Anderson +and other islands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>See also descriptions of other <a href="#Puget_sound">Puget Sound</a> cities.</div> + + +<p><b>OLYMPIA:</b> "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the Northwest," +and seat of state government. Three railroads and four state +highways converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low +verdure covered hills protecting the city and extending out along the +shores. The mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on +the north, is Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon +trail is marked by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. +Tumwater, a mile away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget +Sound. In Olympia the first store was opened for business in the state. +The Old New England Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial functions, +is marked forever by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, +and the homes of the first Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and +General R. H. Milroy are still to be seen.</p> + + +<p>Trips should include:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls—trolley cars, paved +road.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black Lake, 5 miles; +Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; +Bloom's and Hewitt's Lakes, 2 miles.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux Logging Camps.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small islands.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and Lake Cushman, +45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains and Canal always in sight.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper Sound points.</div> + + +<p><b>ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM:</b> Two cities on Grays Harbor, connected +by electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the +southern route. Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aberdeen),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +Near by are some of the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, +an increase of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to +lumbering and fishing industries, but farming and dairying are gaining.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +including the Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm +ocean beaches a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race +tracks. Three transcontinental trains serve the district.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 352px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p108.jpg" width="352" height="600" alt="IN AND ABOUT TACOMA." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p108-big.jpg">IN AND ABOUT TACOMA.</a></span> +</div> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just across the Chehalis +River. A trolley line connects it with Aberdeen.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sunset +and Moclips beaches, by auto, +train or boat—ideal summer +resorts.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Point Grenville and Cape Elizabeth, +bold headlands of the +Olympics on either side of the +Quiniault River; near by are +sporting grounds of the sea +lions.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Montesano, county seat, at junction +of Wynooche with the Chehalis +River (boat, train or auto). +Land near by produces 125 +bushels of oats or 80 tons of +rutabagas to the acre.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Around the harbor visiting Whaling +station, Government jetty +and light house; see crab fisheries; +enjoy ocean swell.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Humptulips Valley and Lake +Quiniault in the Indian Reservation; +returning by canoe +down Quiniault River to Tahola, +near the oil prospects; or +continue into the Olympics as +far as desired.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Read also "<a href="#HARBOR_COUNTRY">Harbor Country</a>" +chapter.</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 239px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p109.jpg" width="239" height="325" alt="HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND:</b> Two progressive cities in southwestern +Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. +Lumbering, farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture +are sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country."</p> + + +<p><b>CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS:</b> Important railroad centers four +miles apart, connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and +Portland. Combined population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A +rich dairy and farm country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, +the Newaukum and Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Centralia +daily. Coal mines, farms and lumber are important. Between +cities are Southwest Washington Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county +seat, is a large condensery. The Pacific Highway and the Rainier National +Park Highway cross near by.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>The oldest Temple of Justice in the state—built in 1851.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of Skookumchuck and +Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn where Gen. Grant stopped.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. Girl's school just +north of Centralia.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></div> + +<div class='hang1'>Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at Tenino.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs Falls, Cowlitz +Gorge.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at Winlock, Napavine, +Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and other pretty towns. See +smelt fisheries and ocean-going cigar shaped raft.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle Rock—two weeks' trip.</div> + + +<p><b>VANCOUVER:</b> Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson +Bay Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible +from all points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke +county is noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal +habitat. Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 +acres of land, 300 of which constitute +a natural park with many winding +roads. State schools for the deaf and +the blind are located near. What is +said to be the oldest apple tree in the +Northwest still thrives. Electric +lines extend to the outlying districts, +also to Portland, Oregon, while auto +drives may be made along the river, +nowhere more picturesque, or +through the surrounding prosperous +farming districts.</p> + + +<p>Suggested trips:</p> + +<div class='hang1'>Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles +(auto or steam cars).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Washougal River, 20 miles east +(auto or steam cars).</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown +Columbia Paper Mills.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Lake Merrill, costing .5.00 for +four or five persons.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Portland, Oregon, the second city +in the Northwest, soon to be +connected by a $1,750,000.00 +bridge across the Columbia.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and camping.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via Lewis River.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat county, via +White Salmon.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in Skamania county.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich picturesque region +adapted to orchards and farming.</div> + +<div class='hang1'>A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to Celilo Falls.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 194px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p110.jpg" width="194" height="300" alt="A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER.</span> +</div> + + +<p><b>GOLDENDALE:</b> County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. +P. & S. railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with +valleys, mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. +Helens, are always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. Historical +sights are numerous.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p111.jpg" width="348" height="600" alt="ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><a href="images/illo_p111-big.jpg">ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH.</a></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/illo_p112.png" width="500" height="155" alt="ALASKA,—OUR ALLY" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p>When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alaska +awaits you. Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free empires! +This region is so extensive that even the state of Washington +would be lost in its midst, for its area is equal to that of +the original thirteen colonies, with Maine, Vermont, Ohio, Indiana, +Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown in, or one-fifth +of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude of +1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the +Atlantic to the Pacific.</p> + +<p>In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupendous +mountains reach to three and nearly four miles in height, +loftier than any others in the United States or its possessions. +The Yukon River is 2,300 miles in length and its nearest rival, +1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in North America are here, +which make those of Europe look like mere pygmies, and volcanoes +still in eruption may be viewed from a safe point. The +scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the snowy +peaks beyond is truly magnificent.</p> + +<p>It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there +had been produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price +paid for its purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each +white person now inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold mining +and within the last twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, +seals, furs, copper and silver—permanent resources of region.</p> + +<p>Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its latitude +is similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washington +and as the Gulf Stream affects England. Both plant and +animal life flourish and about 100,000 square miles of land are +available for agricultural purposes.</p> + +<p>To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip +from Seattle—a thousand miles of calm sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="Map" id="Map"></a> +<img src="images/foldout_map.jpg" width="600" height="435" alt="Map of Washington" title="" /> +<small><a href="images/foldout_map-big.jpg">Transcriber's Note: Click here for larger image</a></small></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 231px;"><br /> +<img src="images/back_cover.jpg" width="231" height="233" alt="SEAL-OF-THE-STATE-OF-WASHINGTON" title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> +<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p> + +<p>The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p></div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. Giles + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WASHINGTON *** + +***** This file should be named 30139-h.htm or 30139-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/1/3/30139/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Giles + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Beauties of the State of Washington + A Book for Tourists + +Author: Harry F. Giles + +Release Date: September 30, 2009 [EBook #30139] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WASHINGTON *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + + +THE BEAUTIES + +OF THE + +STATE OF WASHINGTON + +[Illustration] + +BY HARRY F. GILES--DEPUTY COMMISSIONER + + STATE BUREAU STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL--SECRETARY OF STATE-EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER. + + + + +[Illustration: THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER + +"_Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue_" + +_Copyright by Asahel Curtis_] + + + + +[Illustration: STATE OF WASHINGTON + +DEPARTMENT OF STATE + + BUREAU OF STATISTICS & IMMIGRATION + I.M. HOWELL, SECRETARY OF STATE + EX-OFFICIO COMMISSIONER + + THE BEAUTIES + of the + STATE of WASHINGTON + + A BOOK FOR TOURISTS + BY HARRY F. GILES, DEPUTY COMMISSIONER] + +[Illustration: SEAL OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON] + + OLYMPIA + FRANK M. LAMBORN, PUBLIC PRINTER + 1915 + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS. + + Page + List of Full Page Illustrations 3 + The Evergreen State 5 + Our Mountains 9 + Washington Forests 15 + The Climate 19 + Puget Sound 25-38 + Ideal for Yachting and Cruising 29 + Hood Canal 29 + Other Trips 31 + Commerce 32 + The East Shores 32 + The Islands 33 + San Juan Group 33 + Whidby Island 36 + Other Islands 36 + Olympic Peninsula 38 + The Harbor Country 40-48 + Grays Harbor 43 + Willapa Bay 46 + Mount Rainier National Park 49 + The Columbia River 54 + The Inland Empire 63-80 + Chief Features 64 + How to Reach Them 64 + The Yakima Valley 65 + The Wenatchee Valley 67 + Lake Chelan 68 + The Okanogan Highlands 70 + The Spokane Country 75 + The Wheat Plateau 79 + The Walla Walla Country 80 + The Columbia River 80 + Our Scenic Highways 81-89 + The Pacific Highway 81 + Sunset Highway 84 + Inland Empire Highway 86 + Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways 89 + A Sportsman's Paradise 91 + Cities and Suggested Trips 95 + Alaska--Our Ally 112 + Map Showing Principal Highways + + + + +FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + Cover Design (a water color) Miss Zola F. Gruhlke + Engravings By Western Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle + + THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Title. Photographer. Page + The Rhododendron (C.) Asahel Curtis Frontispiece + Lake Chelan (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 8 + A Forest Stream Curtis & Miller 16 + A Puget Sound Sunset Webster & Stevens 32 + Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake (C.) Curtis & Miller 49 + Sunnyside Canal (C.) Asahel Curtis 64 + Priest Rapids 80 + Columbia River from White Salmon (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 96 + + ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. + Deep Lake Curtis & Miller 4 + Snoqualmie Falls (C.) Romans Photo Co. 6 + Mount Baker (Gr.) 10 + Looking Across the Cascades (C.) Kiser Photo Co. 12 + Principal Trees in Washington C. H. Ziddell 14 + Lumber Industry (Gr.) 18 + Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.) Asahel Curtis 21 + Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.) 23 + Bremerton Scenes (Gr.) 24 + Tacoma and The Mountain Avery & Potter 27 + Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.) 28 + Seattle and The Olympics Curtis & Miller 30 + San Juan Islands (Gr.) J. A. McCormick 34 + Olympic Mountain Scenes (Gr.) 37 + Lake Crescent Curtis & Miller 39 + The Chehalis River (C.) Asahel Curtis 41 + Southwest Washington Views (Gr.) 44 + Surf on Washington Coast (C.) Asahel Curtis 47 + Mount Rainier National Park (Gr.) 51 + Mount Rainier and Lake Washington (C.) W. P. Romans 53 + Along the Columbia River (Gr.) 56 + Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.) 58 + Snake River Country Asahel Curtis 60 + Rock Lake Curtis & Miller 62 + The Yakima Valley Curtis & Miller 66 + The Wenatchee Valley Curtis & Miller 69 + The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.) 71 + Irrigation Scenes (Gr.) 73 + City of Spokane Frank Palmer 74 + Wheat Fields (Gr.) 76 + Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.) 78 + Along the Scenic Highways (Gr.) 82 + Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.) B. C. Collier 85 + Spokane Falls and Bridge Frank Palmer 87 + Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.) Grant Humes 90 + The Angler's Reward B. C. Collier 92 + Spokane Scenes (Gr.) 94 + Our Leading Educational Institutions (Gr.) 99 + Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.) 102 + Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.) 105 + Tacoma's Parks (Gr.) 108 + Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.) 111 + Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright. + +[Illustration: DEEP LAKE--A TYPICAL SCENE IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: The EVERGREEN STATE + + "O beautiful and grand, + My own my Native Land! + Of thee I boast + Great Empire of the West, + The dearest and the best, + Made up of all the rest, + I loved thee most."] + + +The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the Union, named +for the "Father of His Country" and popularly called the "Evergreen +State," brings greetings. + +For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most beautiful +expression when all component elements have been harmoniously combined, +these words of welcome are written. You are invited to come and share +the joy that emanates from the satisfaction of living in a country as +nearly perfect as any that earth has to offer. + +In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that might appeal +to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, it is provided with all +things for ministering both to man's physical needs and to his innermost +longings. All forces have contributed towards its glory. More careful +preparation was never made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains +that reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their +innumerable streams and waterfalls; valleys and plateaus that spring +into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman; forests of big +trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect; the greatest of oceans +to temper with its breezes; inland seas and azure lakes to embellish and +attract--such are a few of the elements that make the State of +Washington and provide beauteous homes for its people. + + +[Illustration: SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)--"THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST." + +Copyright by Romans Photo Co.] + +Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your youthful +impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to reign? You can +find it here--a place where wonderful pictures, real and far grander +than the famous paintings of your favorite artist, are constantly +visible from your kitchen window or from your work shop--and they need +no expensive frames to enhance their loveliness and no dusting to +prevent their obscurity. + +What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the brave mountaineers +who must yearly draw near the Almighty, and dare the elements by +treading dangerous yet entrancing trails to heights where the world +appears at your feet? Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to +accommodate yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic +highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you regard yourself +a mighty hunter and desire so to convince your friends? Or would you be +content to angle for the finny denizens of the deep with a certainty +that you will not in turn be tantalized? + +The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for all these. Its +mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not excelled by the most boasted +scenes of Switzerland. + +[Illustration: MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS.] + +Almost the year round the waters of Puget Sound and the harbors of the +southwest invite the small craft. Nearly 50,000 miles of scenic highway, +passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for your +automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and hoofed, will lure +you through many a jungle of delicate fern and sweet scented bramble; +while countless streams and lakes teem with fish of many species. + +Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, cozy camping +sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regattas, midwinter fairs, +roses at Christmas, golf the year round on turf that's always +green--these are a few of the charms that are as common in the state of +Washington as sands in the Sahara, or ice at the Poles. + +If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy that +exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's breast, +becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firmament are beheld, +then by all means visit this the "Evergreen State" and drink in the +glories which no book, howe'er so well written, and no picture, whoe'er +the artist, can portray with any degree of fullness or accuracy. + +Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. At one moment +you may be jostled along the streets of some metropolitan center among +people of many nationalities and within a mere hour or so be wafted to a +sequestered spot of transcendent beauty, where no voice but your own is +echoed by the hills and where the existence of any other human being to +share this planet can be completely forgotten. + +It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are planned: +mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out; lands are reclaimed from the +deep; orchards fill its valleys; wheat plateaus extend for miles; salmon +traps line the shores; its lumber supplies the world; its ships sail all +the seas; monstrous bridges cross the waterways; buildings vie with the +highest anywhere constructed; its schools rank first in the Union; its +men contribute to the world's greatness; its women vote and rear capable +families; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, originality, +enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes of the western +spirit, are evident throughout the state. + +Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 to over +1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been converted into +gardens, villages have developed into towns, while towns have grown into +cities, taking their places among the leading marts of the world. From a +frontier state it has come to be one of the greatest and most important +in the Union, adding to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that +has yet appeared on the horizon. + +[Illustration: LAKE CHELAN, ONE OF THE MOST WONDERFUL LAKE RESORTS IN +THE WEST + +_"Pride of the waters of the world"_ + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR MOUNTAINS + + + "Touched with a light that hath no name, + A glory never sung, + Aloft on sky and mountain wall + Are God's great pictures hung."] + + +Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye of a visitor +upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists of the mountain +ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, forming, as it were, +ladders reaching from the green vales of earth to the blue vaults of +heaven. Silhouetted against the sky in the hazy distance, they are noted +by the westward bound traveler as soon as he reaches the highest point +in the divide of the Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way +eastward upon the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the +nearness of the welcome land. + +These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, both for their +scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence they exert on the +climate and on the lives of the people who build their homes in the +valleys below. Their supremacy is reflected by the thermometer, the +barometer, and the aerometer; for they help regulate the temperature, +the rainfall, and the wind's velocity. They form great repositories for +the waters that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. +Within their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious +and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their lower +zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of Washington's +big timber, while the alpine meadows above secure for the timid deer and +ptarmigan asylums of temporary freedom from too frequent disturbance by +prowling huntsmen. Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, +reserved for the wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields +traversed by the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. +Everywhere the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his +prowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking +mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to reach +some dizzy height. + +[Illustration: A GLIMPSE FROM PACK CREEK + +A CREVASSE + +AT THE SUMMIT + +SHUKSAN FALLS + +LAKE SIX-THOUSAND FEET + +MOUNT BAKER FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM.] + +Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innumerable lakes, +beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady shores is many a sequestered +spot, most tempting to the camper who loves the mountain region; and +many a brook goes trickling over its stony course to join the rivers +below, pausing here and there in some shady dell to create a deep pool +for luring the fisherman, or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as +a waterfall of wonderful magnitude and magnificence. + +The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They remind us +perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth their fiery refuse, +or of the era when the sea covered most of what is now land. +Indestructible they stand and their rocky heights are in places +insurmountable. The works of man trespass everywhere else, but these +huge pillars of the ages rise in their majestic splendor and with +sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus far and no further! We will preserve +and guard your water and fuel supply. We will protect you from the +furies of the elements and produce materials for building your palaces. +We will create charming nooks where you may camp under the clear sky, +and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. We will fill the +brooks with swift darting fish; carpet the meadows with myriads of +flowers, ferns, and shrubs; and paint you pictures undreamt of by men +who have scorned our acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads +whereby your Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, +but not one of our number shall be moved nor its form be changed in the +least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty will we were +brought into existence." + +[Illustration: LOOKING ACROSS THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. + +Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore.] + +Each mountain range possesses its own distinct characteristics. Of least +importance, but none the less beautiful, are the Blue Mountains in the +southeastern corner of the state, providing pleasant summer retreats for +the people in that vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the +Olympic Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands +lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides. In +this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, presenting some +of the wildest and most inspiring scenery anywhere to be found. + +Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography of the state +are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from 5,000 to 8,000 feet +and named for the many hurrying streams that have cut their deep courses +upon the shady slopes. They extend from the British Columbia line +slightly southwest until divided by the Columbia river, whence they +continue through Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By +them the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct parts, +known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former comprising a portion +of the great Inland Empire. Forming a sort of spur on their east side, +north of the Columbia, and extending to the mountains of Idaho are the +beautiful rolling hills known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to +6,000 feet in altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on +their higher surfaces forests of pine. + +Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks tower above the +others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest by far is Mount Rainier +(or Mount Tacoma), second highest mountain in the United States proper, +14,408 feet in altitude and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and +Tacoma; Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania and +Yakima counties; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at the western edge +of Skamania county, reached from Castle Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, +10,730 feet, forty miles from Bellingham and one of its main +attractions; Mount Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier +Peak, 10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet is +the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that elevation. +Fifty-seven have already been named and measured. + +All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount Olympus in the +Olympics, constitute the main goals of the mountain loving clubs of the +northwest. Mountain phenomena are displayed in all with a maximum degree +of grandeur, insuring ample reward to those venturing to explore their +many fastnesses. + +[Illustration: A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK--PRINCIPAL TREES IN +WASHINGTON.] + +Photo by C. H. Ziddell. + + + + +[Illustration: WASHINGTON FORESTS + + "Cedar, and pine, and fir, and branching palm, + A sylvan scene, and as the ranks ascend + Shade above shade, a woody theater + Of stateliest view"] + +Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and mountains +of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions were originally left +bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a spirit of independence seem +to have pushed their bald heads up and above this beautiful covering +protecting the regions below. Into the fertile valleys and along the +river banks clear to the sea the stately ranks of these forests once +advanced, but such localities are now, for the most part, given over to +the cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transformation +are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the peaceful +pursuits of agriculture; for the broad Columbia plain was the only part +of the state dedicated from the first to the sole task of producing food +supplies rather than fuel and building material. + +About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up in eleven +national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, or to insure +permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen in her full pristine +glory--Conservation! Nearly six million acres more are under private +ownership. Investigation reveals evidences that their birth occurred +very many years ago, possibly five hundred or even six hundred years; +for that many rings have been counted on some of the largest trees. The +foliage appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it +first mingled with the landscape--hence the name "Evergreen State." + +The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scenery of the state +of Washington can be best realized by climbing to one of the heights +overlooking the timber line. From here one can readily see how perfectly +it hides every blemish of the irregular contour, blending beautifully +with the blue waters in the distance and the pale clouds floating above. +Thousands of greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light +yellowish tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of +bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast. + +Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its midst, +breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and cedars, it is easy +to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in size, form, color, and +variety, for + + "No tree in all the grove but has its charms, + Though each its hue peculiar." + +One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest forests of +the temperate zone; while standing proudly on every side are individual +giants, which for size can be duplicated nowhere else in the world, +excepting by occasional specimens of the famous Red Woods of California. + +These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and thoroughly +worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to mar their fame in +spite of the ages through which they have lived. Most prominent is the +Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), the giant of the +forest, growing erect as a plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown +two hundred feet or more above the ground. This is the most important +tree of the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past +ten years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in the +United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous proportions +of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a single one producing +material sufficient to build a palace of huge dimensions. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Curtis & Miller_ + +ONE OF MANY LURING STREAMS + +"_O'erhung with wild woods, thickening green_"] + +Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching sometimes a height +of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases of over 20 feet; +yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds of all the shingles +produced in the United States. Similar to the Cypress, its sweet +soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous and always pleasing. Other +trees which provide lumber and add grace to the Washington woods are the +hemlocks, spruces, larches, and white firs, in the western part of +the state; and the pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern +counties. + +Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled throughout +the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the artistic design. +There are the wide-leafed maples; the red barked madronas; the pale +barked quivering cottonwoods and their allies, the bitter tasting +willows; the white flowered dogwood, prominent throughout the forests +until late in the spring, and occasionally found blooming in the fall; +the gray barked alder protecting the springs and mountain streams; the +sturdy oaks, skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and +the hardy Scotch broom; besides various other trees and shrubs. Many of +these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find nothing more +suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city parks and boulevards. + +Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to have been +destined especially to yield food for the natural wanderers of the +forests; for it is intended that nothing shall be wanted in the state of +Washington. There is probably no other section of the world where wild +berries grow in greater profusion. Very prominent is the wild cherry, +the wild apple, the salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, +the salal berry, the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the +wild currant, and the raspberry. + +Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek with nature +lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for which this section of +the world is noted, is many a modest flower which in some sections +blooms nearly the whole year round, so soft is the climate; while the +pink petaled rhododendron, of bolder nature, Washington's state flower, +is prominent in June tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and +lining the course of many a pretty driveway. + +Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with its sweetness, +may be heard the music of some rippling stream winding its happy way +down the mountain side and playing, as it were, an accompaniment to the +duets of soul mated song birds unable to restrain their songs of joy. If +this is a wilderness then a wilderness is a paradise on earth. + +[Illustration: ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE CLIMATE + + "Eternal Spring with smiling Verdure here + Warms the mild Air and crowns the youthful year."] + + +People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip are always +interested in the climate of the locality attracting their attention, +for they know that absolute contentment in any clime, even for a brief +period, is impossible without a friendly attitude on the part of the +elements. So many regions seem to have been permanently blighted by +conditions opposed to human happiness, or at least to have been +forgotten in certain important essentials when Nature was passing round +her favors. + +The state of Washington, however, received a full share of climatic +blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without extremes either of heat or +cold its climate is as temperate as that of southern England--a most +remarkable fact when one realizes that its latitude is higher than that +of the state of Maine and its northern boundary line corresponds to that +of North Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by the +protecting mountains and their dense forests together with the breezes +blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the mysterious Japan +Current. + +So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the mountainous +regions, that the same weight of clothing is by many found sufficient +the year round. In every section there is a long growing season and only +a short mild winter, known on the west side as the "rainy season." There +is never danger from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are +deflected to the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green +foliage the year round; in most parts there is usually some pasture +available every month; and in certain sections many varieties of +flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle may be turned +loose almost any day in the year and the farmer is saved the necessity +of spending all his summer's profits in order that his livestock will +not starve during a long cold period. The lowest monthly normal +temperature, as deduced from a period of years, is for Seattle, 39 deg.; +Spokane, 27 deg.; and Walla Walla, 33 deg.. Contrast these with the normal +temperatures of the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10 deg.; +St. Paul, 12 deg.; Des Moines, 20 deg.; and Chicago, 24 deg.. + +The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is generally stirring. +There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest parts the dryness of +the atmosphere favors evaporation. The nights are everywhere cool. When +millions in other climes are rolling about in their torturous beds, +struggling for the relief that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian +doffs his clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, +and is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the +morning refreshed and ready for life's battle. + + MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHINGTON + CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OF OTHER U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 57 62 61 57 59 + Seattle 60 64 63 58 61 + Tacoma 58 63 63 57 60 + Spokane 63 69 68 59 65 + + Chicago 66 72 71 64 68 + New York City 69 74 73 66 70 + Boston 66 72 70 63 68 + Washington, D. C. 73 77 75 68 73 + Philadelphia 72 76 74 68 72 + +The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rainfall, such as +discomforts the people in eastern cities during those months and causes +so many disappointments; for 80 per cent of our precipitation occurs +between October 15th and May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and +sunrise, so that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred. + +The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes while the +valleys, where the people make their homes, have no more than enough to +produce a vigorous plant growth. The average for the year on Puget Sound +is about the same as in Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New +York or Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipitation +in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that of California. + + +[Illustration: SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT.] + +The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period, according to +the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 inches; Spokane, 18.8 +inches; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches; Chicago, 33.3 inches; New York, 44.6 +inches; Jacksonville, 53.2 inches; Kansas City, 37.4 inches; Boston, +43.3 inches; Los Angeles, 15.6 inches; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches. + + MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES. + + _June_ _July_ _Aug._ _Sep._ _Sum'r_ + + Puget Sound District 1.59 0.67 0.74 2.01 5.01 + Seattle 1.41 0.61 0.46 1.98 4.46 + Tacoma 1.97 0.69 0.66 2.79 5.91 + Spokane 1.61 0.67 0.48 1.01 3.8 + Walla Walla 1.2 0.4 0.4 0.9 2.9 + + Chicago 3.52 3.62 3.02 3.06 13.22 + New York City 3.41 4.08 4.38 3.44 15.31 + Boston 3.14 3.51 4.15 3.44 14.24 + Washington, D. C. 3.74 4.34 4.98 3.25 16.31 + Philadelphia 3.27 4.14 4.69 3.36 17.46 + +The same forces that affect the temperature and precipitation also offer +protection against the extraordinary meteorological occurrences that so +often terrorize the people in more exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau +has no authentic record of a real tornado anywhere in the state of +Washington" says G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. +S. Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts unknown. Loss +of life never occurs from any of these causes. The atmosphere is always +pure and salubrious and the death rate is lowest of all states in the +Union, while its two largest cities have the lowest death rate of all +cities in the United States, having a population of 100,000 or over. + +After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend a season +where no dreary winters will engender melancholy while waiting for a +lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat will threaten prostration. +Come to a state that is as free as possible from the ills of unfriendly +phenomena, and where one beautiful day passes into the next as a +pleasant dream shades into the sweetest realities of life. + +[Illustration: YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND. + +A Pleasure Fleet + +Racing for Lipton Cup + +Motor Boating + +Idle Hour + +A Favorable Breeze] + +[Illustration: SCENES AT BREMERTON--ONE OF THE LARGEST U. S. NAVAL +STATIONS. + +The Oregon in Drydock + +A Naval Fleet in Port + +Battleship Nebraska + +Drydock] + + + + +[Illustration: PUGET SOUND + + "A land locked sea with harbors deep and wide + Where all the navies of the world could hide"] + + +One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great inland sea +known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca far into +the interior of the state of Washington. If the Strait mentioned, +together with Hood Canal and a portion of the Strait of Georgia are +included, and they will be in this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of +mirror like surface are encompassed within the green wooded shore lines +of as many lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every +direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty mountains, at +other times gardens and farms of unusual attractiveness, and again the +modern cities located upon the shores. + +Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles beckoning +with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked peninsulas shelter +hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing shore line the "tide +lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and supply a sort of neutral +ground, enjoyed now by the clam diggers or oyster culturists and again +claimed by the enveloping waters. + +Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile lands, which +have been released from their forest burdens, are now devoted to the +pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally to feed the multitudes +dwelling in the neighboring large cities. Here and there patches of +virgin growth in primeval splendor may still be seen, but usually, +excepting in the Hood Canal region, the forests have been forced back to +the foot hills, leaving in their wake the so-called logged-off areas +which are in turn rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further +back to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumerable +streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, transect the +lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous regions out into +the salts of the deep. + +Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out of the water, +and command the view for miles in every direction. Pictures are +everywhere presented which reproduced on canvass would insure the +immortality of any artist. Altogether the region presents the likeness +of one vast kingly garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured +and all wonders combine to enchant the visitor. + +[Illustration: SUMMER TIME PLEASURES.] + +This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable bulwarks of +mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but is at the very door +of the people and enjoyed by them while going about their daily tasks. +Nearly a million human beings look out upon its placid waters and +rejoice at their good fortune in being permitted to play, as it were, +upon its banks, and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering +breezes that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a +haven in winter--and there is room for ten times as many to make their +homes where these same joys may be experienced. + +Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period required +for the most extravagant display of human skill, was this great pleasure +resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, between the rising of the +waters that "drowned" the rivers once flowing where now the Sound +reposes and the advent of the glaciers which deposited the fertile +sediment to nourish the luxuriant growth appearing on every hand. + +[Illustration: TACOMA, THE CITY WITH A SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN IN ITS DOOR +YARD. + +Photo by Avery and Potter.] + +[Illustration: Bellingham From Sehome Hill + +Skagit River Valley + +Everett Cascade Mountains In Distance + +Berry Patch In The Puyallup Valley + +VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND.] + + +IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING. + +One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without seeing a bit of +rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here safe from the storms +that pound sometimes against the outer coast line; for its waters +compose one great harbor, protected by the forests and mountains. One +may see "Uncle Sam's" powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming +toward Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest dry +dock owned by the U. S. Government is located. + +But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels alone. It +could not have been improved if created especially for the yacht, the +motor launch, the row boat and even the venturesome canoe. Upon its +surface is held many a local speed contest, and the annual power boat +race is run from Ketchikan, Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are +ideal for the college regatta and for the difficult feats of the +hydroplane. During festive days many important events are pulled off, +while the happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along +the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above. + +For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages--never +threatened by tempests and always within reach of some of nature's most +glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable for camps are easily +found, from which short inland excursions may be made through alpine +meadows by winding trails to the summit of some mountain or to the +shores of some peaceful lake. + +Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft are not +necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters; for regular passenger +steamers, of ample capacity and stately appearance make regular trips +throughout the year from every city on its shores to nearly every other +part of the Sound; while special summer time excursions are made from +the metropolitan centers to all the principal points of interest on +Puget Sound and to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska. + + +HOOD CANAL. + +The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains are in the +narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, extending southwesterly +and bending back into the heart of the Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists +riding over these waters for the first time are elated with the +splendors, and the frequent visitor never tires of the inspiring scenes +that everywhere greet the eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms +and settlements in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge is +at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated ridges are +continually visible from the deck of a passing steamer. Easily +distinguishable also are the deep canyons cut by the several main +streams working their way towards the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs +and creating falls of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the +Dusewallips, the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are some +of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails are familiar to +those making frequent pilgrimages thither. + +[Illustration: A BUSINESS SECTION IN SEATTLE--ELLIOTT BAY AND THE +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS BEYOND. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain summer resort +reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish valley containing the +Indian reservation of the same name. At Union City one may take the +stage over a well traveled road through groves and vales to Shelton, +county seat of Mason county, where regular steamers connect with all +Puget Sound points--thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula. + + +OTHER TRIPS. + +Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main traveled waters +of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olympia and Shelton, to +Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, Port Townsend, and Port +Angeles; also out to the ocean or through the San Juan Islands to +Victoria and Vancouver in British Columbia. The mountains are always in +sight although not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a +continual procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, +gardens, orchards, green meadows, and summer homes. + +Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a myriad +shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the hovering clouds, +which assume various grotesque shapes above the shimmering waters; and +even at night time when threading the channel marked by the twinkling +beacon lights, or entering the harbor of a city resplendent with +thousands of glittering incandescents. + + +COMMERCE. + +Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many that suggest +the state's commercial importance, for these waters produce many million +dollars worth of fish each year, and the neighboring shores have the +largest saw mills in the world, supplying a big share of the +4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is Washington's annual contribution +and insures her first place in the Union. Out from Bellingham and +Anacortes may be observed the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being +raised, with sometimes 50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their +meshes, soon to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and +shipped to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are +seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away cargoes of +manufactured products which for the entire state approaches the +stupendous sum of $300,000,000 yearly. + + +THE EAST SHORES. + +The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east shores, +where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with farms and +gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade Mountains, +comprising five of the most densely populated counties in the state. +Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest cities, Seattle, +Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center of a rich territory +supporting numerous smaller cities. At the southern limit is Olympia, +the state capital. + +Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, berries, +vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which go to support +those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship building, mining, and +other manufacturing industries, and the diversified business pursuits. + +Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost unbroken +string of electric railways render good local service, while excellent +roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross the section and unite +the people with indestructible bonds of friendship and mutual +interests. + +[Illustration: _Photo by Webster & Stevens_ + +A PUGET SOUND SUNSET + + "_When Sol in joy is seen to leave + The earth with crimson beam._"] + +A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other parts of +the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Washington, one of the +grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, forming the eastern +boundary to Seattle, providing sites for country homes and parks, and +embellishing its boulevard system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of +similar importance to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a +number of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma. + + +THE ISLANDS. + +Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the many +enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to Blaine and within +easy reach of the cities located upon its shores. Some are hidden within +partially concealed bays and others appear like portions of the mainland +until circumnavigation has proved their seclusion. Although a few have +sufficient area and commercial importance to form entire counties, the +larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are tiny gems +suitable only for private resorts away from the busy cities. Nearly all +are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled with flowers and ferns, and +girdled with gravelly beaches suggesting the real charms of camp life. + + +SAN JUAN GROUP. + +Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful than the San +Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits of Georgia, rivaling as +they do the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence or the classical Grecian +Archipelago. There are 172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting +their own peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and +shown only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas and +Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are Lummi, Guemes, and +Cypress, similar in formation and of like attractiveness. They are +approachable with almost any kind of craft, no great distances separate +them, and often there is just passage for a steamer. They offer rare +opportunity for playing hide and seek on the water, a game which in days +gone by men played in earnest; for the smuggler stealing away from the +international boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of +safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter. + +[Illustration: THE SUCIA ISLAND + +BATTLESHIP ISLAND + +WALDRON ISLAND + +JAPANESE ISLAND. EAST SOUND + +FIRST IRISHMAN IN AMERICA--BLAKELY ISLAND + +TURTLEBACK MOUNTAIN, ORCAS ISLAND + +AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS. + +Photos by J. A. McCormick.] + +And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us! Had it not been +for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in 1871, the Union Jack +instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes might today be floating over +them. The two distinct camps on San Juan Island where the British "Red +Coats" and the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, +are still protected as points of interest; the former near Roche Harbor, +and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat. + +The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, Bellingham or +Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns including Friday Harbor, +where the University Marine Station and two large salmon canneries are +located; Roche Harbor, where one of the largest lime kilns is +prospering; and Deer Harbor, West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and +Doebay, attractive as summer resorts. + +Many people spend their summers among these isles. The tourist with +limited time should, besides visiting the historic sites on San Juan, +make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas Island. Two good wagon roads +lead all the way to the top, the one from East Sound and the other from +Olga. A pleasant day's outing is enjoyed by going up one way and +returning by the other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared +with the peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more +comprehensive outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the +"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the beautiful +country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired Seattle ship +builder, who has harnessed the water power from the lakes lying a few +hundred feet above and equipped a modern mansion with all that man can +desire or money and art can supply. Who would guess that a great pipe +organ might be heard in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, +bursting out in unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of +the great composers. + + +WHIDBY ISLAND. + +Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohomish counties, +midway in the Sound where the views of the Cascades and the Olympics are +unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the second largest island in the United +States proper and sometimes called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." +With Camano Island on the east and two other very small ones it +constitutes an independent county. Having much water front and its +western shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are +felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no mountains to +climb, although a number of eminences offer views of the distant +landscape. + +The largest improvement has been near the southern extremity and between +Coupeville and the northern limits, where the world's record for wheat +production per acre was made. A beautiful road decorated with +rhododendrons leads from Fort Casey to Deception Pass separating it from +Fidalgo Island on the north, which is connected with the mainland by a +first class highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer +Chautauquas are held and many campers congregate. + + +OTHER ISLANDS. + +A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, having forty +miles of water front lined with summer homes or suitable for camping +sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma are Vashon and Maury +Islands, practically one, comprising some twenty-three thousand acres, +which yield for these cities berries, fruits, vegetables, and flowers, +and offer some of the most delightful sites for homes along their fifty +miles of attractive shore line. + +Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of the Bay Island +country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and offering unlimited +opportunities for campers who are always welcomed by the hospitable +ranchers. Hartstine Island maintains one of the largest vineyards in the +west, yielding delicious grapes which find their way to distant eastern +markets. Numerous smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and +insure pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life. + +[Illustration: MT. OLYMPUS + +FALLS + +BRIDAL VEIL FALLS + +OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS FROM HOOD CANAL + +WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS.] + + +OLYMPIC PENINSULA. + +Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and extending from the +Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the Chehalis river valley is the +vast Olympic Peninsula, whose resources and wonders are probably less +known than almost any other section of the world. The central portion +constitutes one great forest reserve within which is the Olympic +National Monument set apart by the government for the enjoyment of +nature lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns +situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monument +contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, the most +turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state. + +The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automobile. Highways +lead well up into the foothills from the cities of Port Angeles, Sequim, +Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal +points, and passable trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It +is easy to surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the +approach of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous +colors which make the region famous for its beauty. + +It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of choicest +timber remain uncut; valuable ore veins and a vast lake of petroleum are +buried within its depths; land well suited for agriculture girdles the +entire peninsula; and the neighboring waters yield liberal quantities of +fish. + +Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supplemented with the +conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. Among these are Sol Duc +Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol Duc river, where a little palace +has been lifted into the mountains, Government Hot Springs, and Lake +Crescent, all reached from Port Angeles; Lake Cushman, approached from +Hoodsport; and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to any of +these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy the most +extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer. + +[Illustration: LAKE CRESCENT, A POPULAR LAKE RESORT NEAR PORT ANGELES. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE HARBOR COUNTRY + + "We stand on beetling crag or cliff and gaze from farthest west + To the bounding ocean billows, to the broad free sea, + We hail the flags of all the earth and welcome here to rest + Amidst the smiling waters by the tall fir tree."] + + +Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the "Harbor Country," +the only part of the state where almost simultaneously one may enjoy the +rare combination of the unobstructed ocean, an inland sea, and trout +streams lined with giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon +the dominions of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab +seemingly try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding +splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to the +remarkable competition. + +Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this section, at +least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon another variety +of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and experience again the +pleasure of riding through a valley that appeals alike to the Pullman +passenger and to the automobilist; for it is human nature to love a +change, even if one's home environment approaches perfection itself. + +There are two important salt water harbors in southwest Washington, the +more northerly one in Chehalis county, and named Grays Harbor after the +great explorer who discovered it in 1792, and the southern one in +Pacific county bearing an Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated +by only a few miles of territory, which is served by no railroad other +than a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by +Centralia, excepting that during the summer months auto stages traverse +the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland; for the beach here is level and +broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the tide has receded, that it +is used as a highway, and even as a race track for automobiles and +motorcycles. This is true not only of the portion lying between the +two harbors but also of the twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" +extending from Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia. + +[Illustration: ON THE BANKS OF THE CHEHALIS, LEWIS COUNTY. + +Copyright by Asahel Curtis.] + +The entire region is fraught with charms that can be duplicated nowhere +else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are patronized especially by +people from the Sound cities and from southwest Washington. North Beach +to the south of Willapa Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and +other Oregon cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are +numerous, when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity of +visiting the seashore. + +[Illustration: POINT GRENVILLE.] + +The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bathing in the surf or +burrowing in the warm sands; hunting for shells, agates, and Indian +relics; rowing, and trolling for salmon; or searching for the rare +floral specimens abounding in the neighboring woods occupy the time of +many. Others enjoy visiting the canneries, observing the motor races, or +watching the sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into +the harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by some +fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam bakes and, at the +end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach parties and the story +telling, after which one is lulled into sweet slumber by the unceasing +roar of the ocean surf. + +So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach will +undoubtedly in time be ornate with one continuous array of summer +resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the mouth of the +Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the Straits, and interrupted +only by the narrow gaps marking the entrances to the two harbors. Every +manner of dwelling is provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. +Cottages may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one +of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea. + + +GRAYS HARBOR. + +To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the ocean, means a trip +through the wide fertile valley of the Chehalis river, either by auto or +over one of the three transcontinental railroads that serve it. The +entire journey presents a panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream +itself is conspicuous, tracing the valley's boundary on one side and +again on the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the +sea. Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still marked +by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its banks, and again by +some rustic bridge where the highway crosses. + +[Illustration: SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR.] + +More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens and the harbor +is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including Oakville, noted for large +shipments of cascara bark; Elma, an industrial center; and Montesano, +the county seat and head of river navigation. Green meadows, wooded +slopes, and cultivated farms on both sides of the river absorb the +attention until Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, +are reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth within +the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have now a combined +population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the census returns of 1900. +Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain the homes of some of the +wealthiest men in the state. + +[Illustration: MT. ST. HELENS AND SPIRIT LAKE + +SMELT FISHING ON THE COWLITZ + +AT THE OCEAN BEACH + +THE KALAMA RIVER + +A LOAD OF OYSTERS--WILLAPA HARBOR + +WHALING STATION ON GRAYS HARBOR + +SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS.] + +Such development has been due largely to the importance of the lumber +industry which in this section of the state has assumed large +proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious yards, and the huge +vessels loading for foreign ports are common sights within the cities. +Farther away in the logging camps the agility of the lumberjack is +exhibited as he lays low the giants of the forest and trims the logs +ready for the mills. + +The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking a ride upon its +waters. Regular steamers make the round trip each day, stopping at many +points of interest, both in the north and the south bay, including the +North Jetty under construction by the United States government, +Westport, where the life saving station and the wireless telegraph +station are located, and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations +in the northwest. On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be +seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and visit +Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes that engage +the evenings of the summer dwellers. + +Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts near the +terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits; while those +desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable excursions into the +wild Olympic region, exploring the forested hills, visiting the oil +prospects, or hunting and fishing. + +Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis county alone +are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which passes near +interesting scenes. One road extends to the south of the harbor and +another to the beach resorts at the north. The Olympic Highway, one of +the state primary highways, leads east to the Sound country, and +northward up the Humptulips Valley, through the big timber to Lake +Quiniault, located in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the +Quiniault Indian Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the +people living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should plan +their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault River in Indian +canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this way from Mount Olympus in +1913, pronounced it the best part of the entire outing: + +"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties and +experiences beggars description--the swift current, the whirling eddies, +the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into the air to catch the +flying insects, the banks clothed with magnificent forests, log jams +through which or under which we passed, animated branches marking the +rhythmic motion of the current, the floating canoes gliding into the +deeper, darker water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever +on to the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through +the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next test of +skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating bits of +history or legends which explained names or some natural phenomenon. The +boom of the surf announced the end of the journey. As the Mountaineers +left the canoes on the beach at Taholah, it was agreed that the trip +down the Quiniault marked the red-letter day of the 1913 outing." + + +WILLAPA BAY. + +[Illustration: TWO PATRIARCHS--ONE 65 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE.] + +The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, composed of two +sections, one extending southward and separated from the ocean by a long +narrow peninsula, nowhere more than two miles in width, and the other +reaching eastward to South Bend and Raymond. Into it flows Willapa +river, besides other short but swift mountain streams teeming with trout +and other game fish. The bar is about a mile wide and the waters +covering it 28 1/2 feet deep at low tide, thus enabling sea-going +vessels to cross without the aid of tugs--a great advantage to ocean +liners and big lumber schooners, which may be seen almost any day either +lying at the docks or loaded to the gunwale passing out to sea. + +The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Columbia River. +People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam plans to dig a canal +through this narrow strip so that vessels may enter the river by way of +Willapa Bay and avoid the Columbia bar, kept open by jetties built at +enormous expense. + +[Illustration: SURF ON WASHINGTON COAST + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples of what +lumbering and fishing have done for Washington municipalities. Where a +few years ago was nothing but a wilderness, known only to the Indians or +an occasional fisherman, are now busy marts with extensive waterfront +factory sites. Pretty roads start from these cities and wind along the +harbor front or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made +to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing stations. Crab +and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen here to advantage, +Tokeland being the place where eastern oysters were first transplanted +for mercantile purposes. + +South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the North Beach +ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view of the bay, and the +ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, +all passengers are transferred to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for +Ilwaco and Megler, whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train +makes frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive summer +cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly visible on the right. + +Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula is the quaint +town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. Near by are the most +extensive cranberry marshes in the state. Another attraction is "North +Head," most southwesterly point in the state of Washington, where an +unobstructed view of the ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen +the waters of the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in +Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, the +wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of sea lions are +usually sunning themselves. + +Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River may be chosen +to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be quickly reached by the +Pacific Highway or by rail. Every tourist should make at least one visit +to the Harbor Country and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the +state. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE + +"_Owning no mightier but the King of kings_" + +_Copyright by Curtis & Miller_] + + + + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK + + "What vastness and sublimity + Were spread before our eager gaze! + What wild and varied scenery! + What pictures for the poets lays!"] + + +One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding promontory +nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a panoramic view most +wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the sun's warm rays were +unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure as the nectar of heaven. Only +five hours before I had left the city of Tacoma and a little earlier +Seattle--two great cities throbbing with the activities of nearly a half +million people engaged in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits. + +Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the green +valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay--the nearest only forty +miles distant by an air line, close to the waters of Puget Sound. Yet +here, almost in sight of them, I was enjoying a quietude known only to +the haunts of nature. More than seven thousand feet above me towered the +majestic dome of the second highest pinnacle in the United States, +reserving observation to the north until its summit should be reached, +while far toward the east and the south extended range upon range of +mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered around their chief. Here +and there among them appeared the sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in +Washington; and Hood, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in +Oregon. Between their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep +canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state. + +Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way down the +mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged ridges. Between them +and below were spread the meadowed alpine parks or abandoned +cirques--veritable fairylands--which had been carved out by these +superhuman agencies eons before. Barely distinguishable was the road by +which I had made the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across +the face of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams +glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the +profound hollows formed by the extending hills. + +The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of themselves worth +the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen to Ashford where +each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving Tacoma, the highway threads +a picturesque gravelly prairie for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful +canyon road, crosses the Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the +Nisqually Canyon a thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin +forests, reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually +Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be continued +afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage. + +This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. Perhaps no +other area in the world brings so many and such varied natural wonders +to the very doors of two great cities. It contains a total of 207,360 +acres, or 324 square miles, of which 100 square miles is occupied by +Mount Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently +directly from sea level, and visible from almost every point in the +state. + +No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists than this mighty +pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial area, no less than 45 +square miles in extent, exceeds that of any other peak in the United +States. One of the most interesting glaciers is Carbon on the north +slope, reaching down to a lower elevation than any other; the most +readily reached is the Nisqually, five miles in length; and the largest +is the White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, +Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, North and South +Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important secondary glaciers are Van +Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Paradise, and Interglacier. + +[Illustration: PARADISE PARK + +ON THE WAY DOWN + +AVALANCHE LILIES + +THE ASCENT + +IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.] + +The summit may be reached by five different routes. These are the +Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, Ptarmigan Ridge, and +Emmon's or the White Glacier route. The Paradise Valley (known also as +the "Gibraltar") route, on the south side, is by far the most popular, +for it is well provided with hotel accommodations, and both the +government road and Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the +Clouds, at the mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village +at midnight, arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about +5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the mountain, at about +11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see more than a hundred +miles in every direction, far away to the ocean on the west and into the +great Inland Empire on the east. The snow-capped peaks already noted are +seen toward the south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, +Shuksan, Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north; while the Mother, the +Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range near by seem +like mere foothills, between eight and nine thousand feet below. No +grander or more inspiring view may be observed anywhere in the world. + +Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a few, and +always with the aid of an experienced guide. The largest measure of real +joy is found in the alpine "parks." The best known and most frequented +is along the Paradise River. Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, +are Indian Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others +requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest and most +beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews and Grand Parks. + +Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural amphitheaters +present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any underbrush exists in them but +many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and trees abound; three hundred distinct +plants are said to exist; pretty lakelets gem their surface; and all are +drained by trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing +waterfalls of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting glaciers +to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, lead to every +point of interest and extend clear around the mountain. Camping places +are plentiful or accommodations may be obtained at comfortable hotels. + +[Illustration: MOUNT RAINIER--LOOKING ACROSS LAKE WASHINGTON.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER + + "Or lose thyself in the continuous woods + Where rolls the Oregon."] + + +This wonderful and majestic river whose history is enhanced with legend, +offers the exploring tourist or curious sight-seer unusual opportunities +to indulge his unbounded imagination and to satisfy his desire for the +spectacular in nature. Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest +importance in northwest history, while interwoven with the +incontrovertible happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. +Overlooking its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific +northwest, upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its +persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous cities of +the country. + +One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with many important +tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five times the area of the +state of Washington. By a series of cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold +turns, it flows nearly 1,400 miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, +before finally delivering the waters gathered from many sources to the +great Pacific ocean. + +Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast expenditures to +increase its value as a navigable stream. Near Stevenson the government +has built locks at a cost of several million dollars, enabling large +vessels to reach The Dalles, at present the head of navigation. At +Celilo, two hundred miles from its mouth, where, in twelve miles +distance, the river falls eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are +being constructed. When these are completed, merchant vessels can go +direct from the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four +hundred miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in +places by rapids and falls. + +[Illustration: INDIAN CANOE RACE.] + +Important as this river is from a commercial and geographic standpoint, +the greatest interest by far centers in the phenomena that are of its +own creation, visible every mile from its mouth to its source. A journey +upon its surface rivals one along the historic Rhine, the picturesque +Hudson, or the beautiful St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the +wilder grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the earth +and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and describe these ever +so briefly would require an entire volume. This short chapter is a +suggestion only that "By reason of scenic grandeur, absorbing interest +of physical features, the majesty and mystery of its flow through some +of the wildest as well as some of the most beautiful regions of the +globe, and at the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the +greatest of the oceans, this 'Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike +historian, scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature." + +In many places the natural appearances are the same now as when Gray, +Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the Northwest and Hudson's Bay +Company men first viewed its banks, with the exception that the shores +have in places been denuded of their largest timber and either a younger +growth has inherited the dominion or portions have been claimed for the +agriculturist. + +[Illustration: "BRIDGE OF THE GODS" + +CASTLE ROCK + +CAPE HORN AND CIGAR ROCK + +PACIFIC OCEAN FROM CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT LIGHT + +ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER.] + +Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, "chugging" away +from their moorings in the early dawn and returning at the setting of +the sun heavily laden with the famous Columbia river salmon that feed +thousands throughout the world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which +there are many in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are +conspicuous and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the products +of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but far from the +sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the same waters that +conceal the treasures being sought. + +Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washington side and in +Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River is reached, one will have +passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, +Stevenson, White Salmon, and Wallula on the Washington side, besides +many important cities on the Oregon shores: namely, Astoria, the site of +the first settlement on the Columbia; Portland, the largest city in +Oregon, near the mouth of the Willamette; and The Dalles, for many years +the head of navigation. Kennewick and Pasco are located just beyond the +mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive full benefit from the improved +navigation conditions of the future. Between these larger towns is many +a tiny hamlet, while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty +dwellings slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler +dissatisfied with his own home. + +At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of wonderful +basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure of many tints. +Further away a murmuring brook or crystal streamlet may be heard +hurrying down a rocky hillside or winding between towering cliffs, +adding its share to the tuneful sound of the powerful orchestra that +seems everywhere to be heard. Constantly shifting color and shade +attract the eye and tones of varying quality please the ear. + +When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, stretching toward +the north, broad areas where man has mingled his skill with Nature's +works. Green fields, sometimes fringed with willows, near the +waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm houses, and dairies, are +visible as far as the eye can see. These evidences of man's +encroachments are noted all the way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which +city, the oldest in the state, a tourist should linger long enough to +appreciate the region which arrested the attention of our earliest +settlers and inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A +bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it with +the beautiful city of Portland. + +[Illustration: READY FOR MARKET + +SALMON FISHER'S RETREAT--MOUTH OF COLUMBIA + +50,000 AT THE CANNERY + +"LIFTING THE BRAIL", PUGET SOUND + +THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.] + +Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is ascended, until +the mountainous region is reached and the roar of the cascades is +distinctly heard. These cascades, according to Indian lore, were created +by the falling of the "Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from +shore to shore and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on +the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a mighty river +peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular buttresses +on either hand, the forest areas that apparently fell from above, trees +growing out of the water, petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within +the vicinity of Stevenson, and many other freaks of nature all seem to +strengthen the evidence on which this story is based. + +Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples of Nature's +diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle Rock, or +Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 feet high; St. +Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, considered one of the +wonders of the American continent; Oneonta Gorge, almost concealed +behind towering rocks; Multnomah Falls, a matchless waterfall with a +sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster +Rock, unsurpassed for beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape +Eternity, a massive precipice 1,000 feet in height. + +Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates climbing +some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over the wooded river banks +and visiting the rustic towns that lie at the foot of the mountains and +guard the gateway to the alluring valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat +of Skamania county, overlooking the cascade locks, and Carson, are +several hot springs where accommodations for the most particular are +available. From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its +source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. forest +nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the Government Hot +Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for climbing, offer expansive +views of the surrounding country. + +[Illustration: THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON. + +Photo by Asahel Curtis.] + +A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley takes one to +Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves in the foothills of +Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, a pow-wow place for the +Indians. On the way, hundreds of scientifically developed orchards, and +oat fields yielding over 100 bushels to the acre, are passed; also the +Northwest Electric Company's power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse +power, supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the +massive bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending color +may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia River and +the mountains to the east and the west, while the entire Hood River +Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is visible on the Oregon side. + +The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River is a journey +of surprises. The railroad follows the winding canyon past pretty +waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and emerges finally into a wide, +fertile plain overlooking the Columbia basin. Fields of waving grain and +other products exhibit the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those +desiring can motor from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to +the Columbia via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 +road across his 6,000-acre farm. + +Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before being joined +by the Snake River, it has drained a region noted for agricultural +superiority and contributed liberally to the needs of irrigation. The +"Big Bend" on the left, and the valleys watered by its tributaries from +the right, are described under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire." + +Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder scenes +are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, native trees +more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course of the stream more +winding. Startling phenomena appear in rapid succession, and scenes +unimagined will astonish the tourist who spends a little time in +re-exploring this great river, for ages a prize eagerly sought by the +searchers for the unknown. + +[Illustration: ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + + + + +[Illustration: THE INLAND EMPIRE + + "See Pan with flocks with fruits Pomona crowned: + Here blushing flora paints the enameled ground; + Here Ceres' gifts in waving prospect stand, + And nodding, tempt the joyful reapers hand."] + + +Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between the +Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland sea--the waters left +imprisoned when the ocean had receded. After many ages these pent up +waters burst the restraining barriers and forced their way to the ocean, +creating the deep canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad +plain, now known as the Inland Empire. + +What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed into a +"Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one of the bountiful "bread +baskets of the world" while its valleys yield generously of nearly all +the products of husbandry. Near its borders the mountains, with their +retinue of trees, flowers and grassy meadows, reach as far as the +invisible power permits and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, +to wind through and through and distribute the welcome waters that +enkindle the irrigated districts with life and activity. + +Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this wonderful plain, +but the brief description contemplated in these few pages must be +confined chiefly to Washington. The curious sight-seer or the serious +homeseeker can well afford to spend many days exploring this region, +marveling at both the mighty forces of creation and the embellishments +of man. Under far more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now +than when the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. +Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus Whitman, +supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable courage with the trusty +saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner or the rude river raft. Today +the palatial cars of four transcontinental lines make daily trips +across the state; branch lines accommodate the territory north and +south; and parts not reached by rail are served by well constructed +thorofares. + + +CHIEF FEATURES. + +In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important features are +the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan region; the Okanogan +Highlands with the valleys of the Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville +and Pend Oreille; the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake +River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their "coulees"; and +the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low bare ridges of a +semi-mountainous character which relieve the prairie effect and permit +cycloramic views of the surrounding territory. Among these are the +Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while +a number of spurs from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, +help form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain. + + +HOW TO REACH THEM. + +These different sections may be easily reached from almost any city in +the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can make a quick yet +comprehensive survey of eastern Washington in two ways. After seeing the +immediate Spokane vicinity and visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the +north, either automobiles or Great Northern trains will convey them up +the Colville Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, +whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and down the San +Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, whence the +journey may be continued to Wenatchee down the Okanogan Valley, both by +auto and rail. Side trips may be taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake +Chelan canyon, as well as to numerous other places of interest. From +Wenatchee the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures an +interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of the Big +Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by making a tour +through the Palouse to the Snake River and Walla Walla country. +Transportation leads from there direct to the Columbia River, and the +Yakima and Kittitas valleys. The Horse Heaven may be reached from +Kennewick and Pasco, or from Prosser. + +[Illustration: _Copyright by Asahel Curtis_ + +SUNNYSIDE CANAL--MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE + + "_And the old wilderness is changed + To cultured vale and hill_"] + +The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the Palouse, Snake +River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas valleys, from Ellensburg a +scenic overland route may be taken direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop +may be made to include Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big +Bend and the Spokane Country. + + +THE YAKIMA VALLEY. + +Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich territory +tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes Keechelus and +Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the Columbia--a total distance +of nearly 175 miles with a range of altitude, at the water's edge, +varying from 2,250 down to 340 feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima +Valley proper, the Kittitas and a number of minor valleys, including the +Naches, the Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and +the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just south of +"Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are located, two enterprising +cities, vieing for supremacy over the rich south half of Yakima county. +Further south is Prosser, county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is +North Yakima with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region +and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, is +Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima county +constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima Tribes dwell +peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the soil and occasionally +entertaining the people with many a "Round Up," or Wild West Show. At +Fort Simcoe is their school, deserving of a visit from anyone +interested. + +[Illustration: THE YAKIMA VALLEY--MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and bunch grass, +is irrigable land enough to support a population of a million people; +for the total water capacity as surveyed by the United States Government +is estimated at 927,000 acre feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. +Less than a third of this is at present cultivated and watered from +small canals, built by private capital, and from the two largest ones in +the state, constructed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter +are the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the +Sunnyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres. + +A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima river unfolds a +panorama of unusual breadth and interest. Instead of the heavy forests +of the west side, the sage brush struggles for existence just above the +main ditches; but the country below is checkered with orchards, farms, +and gardens; and cotton woods protect the banks of the streams. +Impressive is the sight in springtime when fruit trees are all in bloom +and the Blossom Festival, participated in by a hundred-thousand people, +is ushering in the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches +of color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester. + +[Illustration: A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.] + +From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most perfect +form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, vegetable +gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected and +crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and rivers, protected by +the brown hills near by and watched over by the mountains in the +distance, supply composition for pictures that in detail and variety +must discourage all competition. + + +THE WENATCHEE VALLEY. + +Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee Valley, +reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot hills of the Cascades. +This, too, was a desolate brown slope until the effects of irrigation +were felt on its rich volcanic ash soil. After that only ten years were +necessary to convert it into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of +the forlorn looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the +valley and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of +blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. +Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens below, +are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters that irrigate the +land; while dodging from one side of the vale to the other, or +paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the Wenatchee river hastens +onward towards the Columbia. + +The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered hills, spurs of +the Cascades, over which many trails lead to charming mountain lakes and +streams, where summer homes are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. +The east opens up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the +Columbia River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in +all the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in the +vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported in affluence by +successful fruit culture or gardening. + +Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including Wenatchee, +the metropolis of north central Washington, with a population of about +5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth +near the head of the valley; and Cashmere, midway between the two. The +pervading spirit is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee +red apple is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 +annually. + + +LAKE CHELAN. + +Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest sheets of +fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American continent. It is one +of a number of beautiful lakes found throughout the highlands in the +vicinity of the upper Columbia, but on account of its thrilling beauty +and easy approach has become one of the favorite resorts for the entire +northwest. + +It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes from the +Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. River boats, automobile +stages, or Great Northern trains allow three principal modes of +transportation, each of which reveals different scenes of interest. +During summer months the overland trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant +and presents the fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The +return might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the +Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course of four +miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower. + +[Illustration: THE WENATCHEE VALLEY--NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE. + +Photo by Curtis & Miller.] + +Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Columbia, +and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan canyon reaches in places +nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 +feet below the surface. Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to +Stehekin, views are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color +blending are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the +traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness of the +whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy with +divine nature. Among features of striking scenic importance are Railroad +Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 miles, the Stehekin River, and +Rainbow Falls. + + +THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS. + +This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating with +fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open forests of +spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the homeseeker, pleasure +for the sportsman, and continuous scenes of interest for the tourist are +suggested. Here one can yet feel the presence of the true western spirit +of frontiership, for this part of the state was the last to be thrown +open to settlers; and the Indians are still in full possession of the +Colville Indian reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the +south central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river to +the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the valleys yield +liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, and the higher lands +are devoted to grain and stock raising. Lumbering plays its part and +mining for precious metals assumes greater importance than elsewhere in +the state. + +[Illustration: SIMILKAMEEN RIVER NEAR OROVILLE + +FARM SCENE IN THE METHOW + +PATTERSON LAKE + +METHOW VALLEY + +FORT OKANOGAN--FIRST WHITE SETTLEMENT IN WASHINGTON + +ORCHARDS IN THE OKANOGAN VALLEY + +THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.] + +The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and the +Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil and the Methow +are dependent on highway conveyances. Of extreme interest is the ride +from Spokane up the Colville and Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with +a short side trip to Republic, the leading gold producing city in the +state. The railroad crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing +the unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion of King +George of England and the next back under the Stars and Stripes. +Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque canyons are +invaded before arriving at the heights from which Oroville appears far +below--requiring an hour for the train to descend by a series of +remarkable switchbacks. + +[Illustration: COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.] + +Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in their infancy, +for its development has been so recent; but therein lies much of its +charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading city is Newport, the +county seat, prettily located on both sides of the river, half in Idaho +and half in Washington. In Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, +and Colville, the largest city in the region, with a population of over +1,500 people. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's +Indian Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other +interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties. + +[Illustration: WINESAP TREE + +FIRST WATER ON THE LAND + +A VINEYARD + +PRUNE ORCHARD IN BLOOM + +IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.] + +[Illustration: THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK--MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE +DISTANCE. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + + +THE SPOKANE COUNTRY. + +From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire are easily +reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city and two others +operate trains; while a network of electric lines serves the immediate +vicinity, penetrating the territory as far south as Colfax, Palouse, and +Moscow; southwest to Medical Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden +Lake and Coeur d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic +sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each mode of +transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills nearest Spokane +are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther away are forests of +pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing many lakes teeming with trout +and black bass. Within a radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain +lakes, thirty-eight of which are ideally located and supplied with all +necessary equipment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second +largest fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden +Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National Forest +Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; Liberty Lake, +seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; Spirit Lake, +forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; and Twin Lakes, +thirty-three miles. + +The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. They are +neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and Olympics, but they +are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak in eastern Washington is +Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty miles northeast of the city. From its +summit one may look out into the three northwestern states of Oregon, +Idaho and Washington, and into the province of British Columbia; and +count seventeen different lakes and rivers. + +Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the +Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root mountains are +approached on the east. The roads westward and southward lead past well +cultivated gardens, green meadows and groves, until finally is spread +before one a sea of grain--continuous wheat fields--the Big Bend to the +west and the Palouse to the south. + +[Illustration: WHEAT RANCH + +HARVESTING + +SEEDING + +INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.] + +Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable roads in +America on account of the high class material of which it is +constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses the state of Idaho and +connects with roads leading to the National Parks in Montana. This +valley more than thirty miles in length, with an average width of eight +miles, comprises a level irrigated country cut up into intensive garden +and orchard tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising +apples, pears, cherries, small fruits, garden truck, poultry, and live +stock. The advantages of abundant water power, proximity to a great +city, rapid transit facilities, and a healthful climate, are quickly +transforming the region into one of attractive suburban homes. + +[Illustration: METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.] + +The Spokane River drops 1,280 feet in a distance of 100 miles, and 130 +feet within the city limits, falling precipitously 70 feet in the heart +of the business section, over a dam 200 feet wide. On both sides is +built the city sloping towards its waters and overlooking the country +beyond. Extensive economic developments are taking place, there being +seven distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly +$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power plants, +manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. Historical +events are associated with Fort George Wright, named for a famous Indian +fighter; Indian Canyon, tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane, +a pow-wow place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first +government Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early fur +traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle. + +[Illustration: A FAMOUS 600 ACRE ORCHARD + +PALOUSE FALLS 198 FEET + +WHITMAN'S MONUMENT + +THE BLUE MOUNTAINS AN HOURS RIDE + +126 BOXES A YEAR + +SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.] + + +THE WHEAT PLATEAU. + +The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big bend of the +Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which stretches eastward until +it blends with the rolling Palouse, one of the richest farm regions in +the northwest, and southeast across the Snake River to the Blue +Mountains; although considerable wheat is raised in the country lying +between the Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties +to the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the waving +heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the horizon. The +combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, is a familiar example of +the immensity of the machinery needed when gathering the mammoth crop, +which for the entire state is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels +annually. + +The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" or old river courses, +sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is practiced and +where strings of small alkali lakes have been scattered. Two of the most +important are Moses Coulee in Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming +the boundary line between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old +bed of the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the Quincy +Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land to be some day +irrigated by water conducted under the Columbia river from Wenatchee +Lake in Chelan county. + +The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, Moses Lake, +near which irrigation from wells is successfully carried on, and Rock +Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the Palouse. The most important +river is the Palouse which creates the Palouse Falls just before joining +the Snake River. Near this stream are several prosperous cities, +including Colfax, Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College +and Experiment Station. + + +THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY. + +The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a canyon of +1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a natural dividing line +between Whitman and Franklin counties on the north, and Walla Walla, +Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the south. Its warm canyon is famous +for early fruits and berries which are shipped in carloads to eastern +and western points. + +Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all four counties to +the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally by orchards which assume +their greatest proportions in the beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla +valleys. Over this rich country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns +supreme, her authority being limited only by the Columbia and Snake +rivers, or the Blue Mountains; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy and +Clarkston are important centers in their own districts. + +Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wallula, the +site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla Walla. When +once seen, no words are needed to tell why these lovely plains, all +ready for the planting and moistened with sufficient rainfall annually, +were so attractive to the early settlers, and inspired the first serious +efforts at colonization. + + +THE COLUMBIA RIVER. + +All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through the Columbia +river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fraternity. The +grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the region, it supplies +unlimited water for successful irrigation and power purposes, and in +places still provides the principal mode of transportation. Between +Kettle Falls and the Snake river are a number of important rapids, chief +of which is Priest Rapids, just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a +descent of seventy feet and a possible horse power of half a million. + +Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of Kennewick and +Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to the sea as soon as the +Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest elevation in the Inland Empire +and surrounded by a large area of irrigable land, they are served by +three transcontinental railroads, permitting rapid transit to any part +of the northwest. + +[Illustration: PRIEST RAPIDS--SADDLE MOUNTAINS BEYOND + +"_The river rolled in cataract through the canon_"] + + + + +[Illustration: OUR SCENIC HIGHWAYS + + "They build and toil, each road a nervous wedge + To hew a way where seats of empire wait."] + + +The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of roads which, +finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineering and commercial +importance the French highways, and in scenic grandeur the mountain +passes of Switzerland. Easy approaches are being constructed to every +town and hamlet and into every farming community. So vigorously has the +work been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, except +Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its mountain +recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles have been already +completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth of broad thorofares, +boulevards, and country highways. The most important highways built and +maintained at state expense are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland +Empire, the Olympic and the National Park. + + +THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY. + +The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the state of +California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven miles north of +Washington's boundary line, a total distance of about two thousand +miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is within the state of Washington, +connecting Vancouver on the Columbia with Blaine at the international +line. It traverses nine counties of Washington, containing forty-eight +per cent of the wealth and fifty-five per cent of the population, and +passes through nine county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, +Vancouver, Kalama. Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and +Bellingham. + +[Illustration: PACIFIC HIGHWAY + +NATIONAL PARK HIGHWAY WILLAPA HARBOR + +STATE ROAD ALONG THE METHOW + +RAINIER NATIONAL PARK ROAD + +SUNSET BOULEVARD NEAR SPOKANE + +ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS.] + +From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward through the +prune and plum orchards of Clarke county, where more of these trees grow +than in all other parts of the state combined. Along the banks of the +historic Columbia and through the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it +winds toward Kelso, famous for smelt fisheries; and Castle Rock, the +gateway to Mount St. Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north +fork of the picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley +is followed to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly growing +railroad centers having a combined population of 15,500 people. Groves, +orchards, gardens and prairies line the smooth gravelly road from here +to Olympia, where the first view of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire +to swerve off toward Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly +completed Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, +is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins and +draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. Rising above the +famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to cross the oak moor lands +marking the beginning of Tacoma's playgrounds and reminding one of +southern England, the road soon enters Tacoma, third city in population +in the state. + +Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, touching +at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; at Auburn and Kent, +centers of a rich dairy section; and at Renton, bristling with +manufacturing importance near the southern end of beautiful Lake +Washington. A dozen miles more and you are on the streets of Seattle, +metropolis of the northwest and third city in size west of the Rocky +Mountains. + +Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds along by Lake +Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty lakes, entering green +woods, intersecting meadows, crossing streamlets, rising to sightly +plateaus and descending again to peaceful valleys before it reaches +Everett, a city of 32,000, located on an eminence overlooking the waters +of the Sound. + +The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway skirts the +Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish river in the +Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic road branches off to +Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Burlington, where it intersects the +Skagit county road leading from Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one +may appreciate the famous Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," +where 173 bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land +protected from the sea and river by immense dykes. + +Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is reached, said to +be the most picturesque on the entire route: for the Sound is plainly +seen from the shaded highway which clings to the side of Chuckanut +Mountain, while the electric interurban and the Great Northern railway +traverse the waterfront below. Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has +innumerable attractions to hold the tourist, who still has twenty miles' +journey if he would follow the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit +at Blaine, the most northwesterly municipality in the United States. +Near by is the Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the +northwest; where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland. + + +SUNSET HIGHWAY. + +The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting through +automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and connecting the +western with the eastern counties. Throughout its full four hundred +miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces the tourist to scenes which +for diversity and pleasant surprises, varying from rugged mountains and +roaring waterfalls to peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, +can nowhere be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades +are never more than five per cent. + +Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises northeastward +to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just below the town of +Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the same name, the "Niagara of +the West." This immense stream of water falling 268 feet, is now +harnessed to supply power and light to the cities and towns of Puget +Sound. Following the banks of this river the highway penetrates +entrancing forests and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and +river are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains +puffing towards the summit. + +[Illustration: SHOWING THE CAPITAL MT. RAINIER IN THE DISTANCE + +A TRAIL + +TUMWATER FALLS + +PUGET SOUND FROM PRIEST POINT PARK + +AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY.] + +Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of the Yakima, +and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake Keechelus, where the +government is building a huge dam for storing water to irrigate the +Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Passing the southern extremity of Lake +Kachees, another deep mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal +shipping center, enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the +cultured city of Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of +the state normals. + +The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a 5,200-foot pass, +permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier and Hood. The banks of +the Columbia are followed to Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central +Washington and the famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it +proceeds along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a +winding canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big +Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Waterville, the +county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly eastward to continue in +an almost unbroken line through expansive wheat fields towards Spokane, +the metropolitan city of the Inland Empire, over a hundred miles away. + +At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth while to +linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to be the old bed +of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has attracted attention +from geographers of international reputation. Wilbur, Davenport, the +county seat of Lincoln county, and Reardan, besides many smaller +settlements, almost lost in the midst of the great wheat fields, appear +before the thin woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached. + + +INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY. + +At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the Inland Empire Road, a +southern route to Spokane via Walla Walla. Following the Wenas Valley to +North Yakima, it continues southeast through the Union Gap and along the +Sunnyside Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a +splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance appears. +From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and entrance to the Horse +Heaven country, the road drops toward the Columbia river and soon +reaches Kennewick, the home of early strawberries, and Pasco, county +seat of Franklin county. + +[Illustration: LOWER SPOKANE FALLS, AND BRIDGE WITH SECOND LARGEST +CONCRETE ARCH IN THE WORLD. + +Photo by Frank Palmer.] + +From here the Central Washington Highway threads the extensive wheat +fields toward the northeast, passing through Connell, Lind, Ritzville, +and Sprague, all important wheat shipping centers; and Cheney, the site +of another state normal, fifteen miles southwest from the city of +Spokane. + +The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city of Walla Walla; +but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Columbia county, it divides, +uniting again near Rosalia, twenty-five miles south of Spokane. The +shorter route trends northeast, crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes +through Colfax, county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse +Valley. The other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, +enters Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the +eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending northward +it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields; enters Pullman, home of +the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakesdale; joins the other +branch at the county boundary line and soon reaches the southern +outskirts of Spokane. + +[Illustration: INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA.] + +From Spokane this road presses northward through the Colville Valley to +the Columbia, and thence to the international boundary line, having +previously passed at Deer Park the Arcadia orchard, largest commercial +apple orchard in the world; Loon Lake, a summer resort; Chewelah, a +mining town surrounded by a dairying country; and Colville, county seat +of Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant contrast +is this northern extension, regaining the mountains and evergreen +forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious waterfalls, and the +chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and green meadows. + + +OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS. + +The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel to Lake +Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, will form a +complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from which it derives its +name. Winding along at the foot of the mountains, it connects the +leading cities of the district and exposes some of the most scenic +features of the Sound country, including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan +de Fuca, Grays Harbor, and occasionally the Pacific Ocean. The principal +cities touched at are Shelton, Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Hoquiam, +Aberdeen, Elma and Olympia. + +[Illustration: ANACORTES ROAD.] + +The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rainier National Park, +whence it bears southward to the headwaters of the Cowlitz, crosses to +the Chehalis Valley and, after connecting with Chehalis and Centralia, +leads southwest, over the low coast range to Raymond and South Bend on +Willapa Bay, and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia. + +Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade mountains. Two are +nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass Highway, paralleling the +Sunset as far as North Yakima, and one along the north bank of the +Columbia. A third will sometime cross and connect the Skagit Valley with +the Methow. + +[Illustration: WILD ELK IN THE OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS.] + + + + +[Illustration: A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE + + "The antlered monarch of the waste + Sprang from his heathery couch in haste"] + + +This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of approval from the +followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs are devoted to the +opportunities for the chase and the plentifulness of game fish and +birds. Of course, the real sportsman would rather discover the prey for +himself. To tell minutely where every prize is to be found would be like +disclosing the end of an interesting story before the beginning had been +read. But even if it were well to do so, every page in this publication +would be needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, +every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the quarry. + +That the common species of game are plentiful is superfluous to say. On +holidays and at week ends, during the open season, it is a familiar +sight to witness the khaki-suited brave looking sportsmen, with guns or +fish baskets and rods, clambering onto the trains or hiking to the +nearest point where the welcome woods and the realm of habitation meet. +It is equally common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along +at the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, +vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals. + +Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent are the Chinese +pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hungarian partridge, and +native prairie chickens; all are found along the streams or in the +clearings and fields of nearly every part of the state. Blue grouse are +quite plentiful in western Washington and in the wooded sections of +eastern Washington. Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan +Highlands and in several of the western counties. All species of ducks +are to be found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary +thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Empire; while +geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in eastern Washington. + +[Illustration: THE ANGLER'S REWARD. + +Photo by B. C. Collier] + +Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real fighting +trout as Washington; including especially the mountain, rainbow, cut +throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, and eastern brook, in all +lakes and mountain streams. Black bass and perch are very plentiful in +the land-locked lakes; and certain sections produce also many varieties +of white fish, sun fish, croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget +Sound, the harbors and the Columbia River contain many species of +salmon. + +The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, found chiefly in +the hills and mountains, although in some localities it invades the +domains of domestic animals. The leading varieties noted are the mule +and black tail, there being also a few white tail. In the Olympic region +are large herds of elk and a few in the southwest and northeastern +counties. These, however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain +goat and sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades; while the +black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and mountains; also +occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These latter, however, keep +themselves far removed from the main traveled roads; only by much care +are they located, so that the timid need have no fear of wandering in +the woods alone. + +In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of the year, five +trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a number by separate +counties. The state hatcheries alone planted 4,399,050 trout in 1913. +The common birds are propagated and set free at both public and private +expense. + +With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and counties +blending their united efforts to supplement and conserve, the true +sportsman will never regret casting his lot with the state of +Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be encouraged to the +fullest degree. + +[Illustration: HAYDEN LAKE + +ROSE GARDEN HAYS PARK + +MANITOU PARK + +WATERFALL, INDIAN CANYON + +DOWN RIVER DRIVE + +IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE.] + + + + +[Illustration: CITIES AND SUGGESTED TRIPS + + "Spreads now many a stately city; + Solitude returns no more! + Happy country! happy people! + Peace prevails from shore to shore"] + + +The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural setting, and +reflect the originality, the energy and love for artistic design of the +people who dwell within them. In western Washington they are usually +protected by verdure covered hills, and built to overlook the Sound, the +harbors, or the rivers. The smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams +which supply power and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible. + +The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and adorned +with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lacking in the +Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are continually in sight. In +the northern counties, however, the native trees and mountains again +become more prominent. + +All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable hotels. +Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and other public +buildings are of modern structure; the streets are generally paved; +practically all have electric lights and pure running water. The homes +are planned both for beauty and comfort, and are often surrounded by +green lawns or gardens where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers +reach perfection. + +The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the larger +centers, and the more important trips from each. They are arranged to +represent a tour about the state and in the order in which one might +visit all, or certain ones only, with the least expenditure of time. The +cities given have commercial organizations prepared to give further +information regarding their respective localities. + + +=SPOKANE:= Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest city in +the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500 per cent +in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River with +wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading railroad +centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating on +their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, theaters, +public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in the northwest. +Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at more than +$2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city in the +United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with broad +highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There is a +boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing pool a +mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One may see +large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, and many +big development projects within a limited area. It is the home of the +North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per cent of the +apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. + + +A few of the more important trips should include the following: + + Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in + Eastern Washington. + + Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still + there). + + Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal + qualities of water; one of state's hospitals here. + Return by way of Cheney, home of one of state + normal schools. + + Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to + Hayden Lake. + + Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at + cost of $194,000. + + Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on + Waikiki Road. + + Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the + world. + + Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich + agricultural valley, good roads, mountains in + sight, many lakes. + + Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, Ione, and Metaline + Falls; see Box and Grandview Canyons; river falls + 400 feet in 12 miles. + + Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse + country. + + Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State + College at Pullman, one of the most remarkable + rides--train, auto, or electric. + + Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver + mine in the world. + + Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon. + + Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam. + + See also "Spokane Country" under the "Inland + Empire." + + +=WALLA WALLA:= (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one time said to +"have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more pretty girls +than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. One of the +richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to Vancouver, oldest +city in the state, and home of first white woman in the Northwest. +Picturesque hills, with gentle slopes, usually covered with waving +grain, surround it; while many a little stream, protected by cottonwoods +and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. The N. P. and O. W. R. & +N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway pass through. Trees line the well +paved streets and produce a particularly artistic effect. Here is +located Whitman College, on the site where Stevens made his famous +treaty with the Indians; the State Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit +Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest +bank in state. + +[Illustration: THE COLUMBIA RIVER, FROM WHITE SALMON + +_Copyright by Kiser Photo Co., Portland, Ore._ + + "_Superbly flowing_ + _By piny banks basaltiform, romantic_"] + + +Trips should include: + + The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for + wild and rugged canyons and summer resorts. + + Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only + pass to the Wallowa country in Oregon; Wallowa + Lake. + + Bingham Hot Springs, 40 miles; Clinker Hot + Springs. + + The famous Whitman monument at Waiilatpui, about 6 + miles west. + + The Columbia and Snake rivers; Palouse Falls; the + Little and Big Meadows. + + Vast wheat, barley and rye farms, some of which + contain 4,000 acres and more; also large stock + ranches. + + The Touchet Valley, where diversified farming is + successful. + + Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, + via Inland Empire Highway. + + Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake. + +[Illustration: A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA.] + + +=NORTH YAKIMA:= Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the largest body +of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. All points +in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are easily reached. +Business and public buildings are of artistic design. City is +symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It grew from +a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace with the rapid +development evident all up and down the valley. A blossom festival is +held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair in September. A +sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles through alfalfa +fields and orchards where the results of irrigation are displayed. Good +automobile roads extend in every direction. + + +Trips should include: + + A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive + view of valley. + + Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the + narrows to Soda Springs. + + Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells: on the + return Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams are plainly seen. + + One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline + motor, automobile, or the N. P. Ry. The towns of + Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, Mabton, Granger, + Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, will + be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in + the state. + + Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the + Cascades--summer resorts and storage reservoirs. + + Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of + Basalt, following the American and Bumping rivers + to the summit of the Cascades. + + Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past + "Painted Rocks." + + Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain + and glacial scenery here rivals the Canadian + Rockies. + + Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas--good roads + and scenery. + + Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas--beautiful + scenery. + + +=ELLENSBURG:= Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 acres are +irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 acres more. +A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and dairy farms +gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where grand mountain +scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. One of the three +State Normals is here. Splendid highways. + + +Suggested trips: + + Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good + view of Mt. Stewart (9,470 feet). + + North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas. + + Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; + perpendicular cliffs on either side. + + Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and + Cle Elum, 40 miles. At these three beautiful lake + resorts, in the heart of the Cascades, the + Government is building, at mammoth expense, a + system of storage dams for watering the Yakima + Valley. + + Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table + Mountain, by a 5,200-foot pass from which Mt. + Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other peaks are visible. + + +=WENATCHEE:= The metropolis of North Central Washington, and gateway to +the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and Lake Chelan +regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and Wenatchee rivers, +with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles away. One continuous +orchard is seen up and down both valleys. Auto roads lead in all +directions to innumerable points of interest, and the navigable Columbia +provides transportation for many miles. A labyrinth of lakes and +beautiful farms are within easy reach. The mountain scenery is +impressive. For a commanding view one should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts +Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the smoke of Walla Walla are visible from +some points. Population 5,000. + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and + Rainbow Falls by Red Apple route and auto stage + and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 miles from Lake + Chelan--a star trip. + + Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. + Horseshoe Basin. + + Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a + beautiful natural park, between Lake Chelan and + Entiat Valley, reached by Government trail; good + hotels. + + Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, + wheat fields. + + Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or + train, boat part way if preferred. A week or more + could be spent to advantage. Historical sights are + numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian Mission. + Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in + state. Big irrigation projects are seen. Near + Oroville are Osoyoos, Wanacut and Epsom Salts + Lakes, and the Similkameen river. Okanogan, county + seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed. + + Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; + irrigation, captivating scenery, splendid roads. + + Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry + counties. + + Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake. + +[Illustration: + +DENNY HALL, U. OF W. + +UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON, SEATTLE + + _Administration Building + Domestic Science Hall + State College_ + +STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON, PULLMAN + +OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.] + + Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, + from which Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, + and the government fish hatcheries are easily + reached; also Icicle River by horseback over + government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, + (auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite + mountain resort 23 miles northwest. + + +=SNOHOMISH:= "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in Snohomish +county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country just east of +Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and river boats, +as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips. + + +=EVERETT:= "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. Located on a +sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snohomish River. Views +on every side are superb. The Cascades and Olympics are clearly visible, +especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and many lesser peaks, including +Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. Parks, boulevards and +playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic completeness. The only +arsenic plant in the United States is here. It is an important +manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, machinery and paper. +Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country extends to the +Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is held in July. The +G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three interurbans center here, +while automobile roads, including the Pacific Highway, lead to the +mountains and to lake resorts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from + which may be reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and + Bridal Veil Falls; Lake Serene, Lake Isabel and + many scenic peaks easily climbed. + + Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and + Olney Falls. + + Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, + hunting, camping. + + Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, + and Mt. Pilchuck. + + Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic + Hot Springs. + + Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes + and resorts; Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other + towns--some excellent roads. + + Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and + Tulalip Indian Reservation. + + Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades. + + Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower + Stillaguamish where lie rich dyked lands. + + Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat + fields. + + Seattle 1 1/2 hours to south and Bellingham 2 1/2 + hours to the north, by Pacific Highway. + + Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe + with its large condensery; state reformatory here. + + Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro + Woolley and La Conner. + + +=SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES:= Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington, Sedro +Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Valley, famous +both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest farm land in +the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes are built to +protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have been known as +high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is nowhere in the state +more important, two condenseries being supported in Mount Vernon. Two +main railroad lines with branches, besides an interurban, serve the +section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County Highway cross at +Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Bellingham, Anacortes, Everett +and east into the mountains, visible from almost every point. Many +beautiful lakes in region. + + +=ANACORTES:= A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western extremity of +Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and Sound steamers +supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway starts here. Salmon +canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing and ship building may be +seen to advantage. + + +Suggested trips: + + South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry + and continue to Coupeville and Fort Casey. + Splendid roads; rhododendrons. + + East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water + always in sight. + + Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all + Sound points. + + +=BELLINGHAM:= Population about 30,000. Metropolis of Northwestern +Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the largest +salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills on +coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount Maker are +visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the state normal +schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay where the ships of +the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan Islands; fishing craft +may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have been provided. Pretty roads +lead through big timber in various directions. At its door stands Mount +Baker, one of main tourist objectives of the northwest, and one of the +most interesting mountains on the continent. The annual Marathon races, +participated in by the athletes of the world, are made to its summit and +back to Bellingham. + + +Suggested tours: + + Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited + time. + + Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan + islands; boat leaves every morning. See page 33. + + Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also + Deception Pass. + + U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; + Government bulb farm, in full bloom during April + and May; Country Club. + + Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; + Nooksack Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through + big timber. + + Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United + States. Birch Bay and Lincoln Park, visiting also + Custer, Lynden and Ferndale. + + Chuckanut Hill--view of Sound and surrounding + country. + + Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised--a rare + sight. + + Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver + and the ocean--splendid water trips. + + The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto. + + Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or + train. + + +=PORT ANGELES:= Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and nearer the +ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. Harbor is one of +the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive improvements are +taking place. It has one of the largest saw and shingle mills in the +world. No prettier scenery anywhere. + +[Illustration: + +BRINGING IN A WHALE + +INDIAN VILLAGE + +BURDEN BEARER + +CONTENTMENT + +CALLING MOTHER + +OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot + Springs. + + Sol Duc Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 + miles southwest, in the heart of the Olympics. + Hotel cost half a million. + + Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to + Mt. Olympus. + + Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built + at cost of $2,000,000.00 to furnish light and + power for entire Olympic Peninsula. + + Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see + largest irrigation tracts in Western Washington. + Mountains and Sound are continually in view. Trip + may be continued to Port Townsend or along the + Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor. + + +=PORT TOWNSEND:= "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on Quimper +Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Discovery Bay, and +Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain View Park a broad +outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the waters mentioned, the +Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and hundreds of minor details. Other +beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls +than elsewhere in Western Washington. Pretty driveways decorated with +rhododendrons, unusual boating possibilities and easy approach to the +Olympics, make the region ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city +is Fort Worden, headquarters for the Puget Sound system of defenses, +where the 6th Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders +daily programs. Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound +stop daily. + + +Suggested trips: + + Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water. + + Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in + state, and other points on Whidbey Island. + + Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery. + + Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto. + + South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, + around Mt. Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood + Canal, returning via Discovery Bay and Saints + Rest: from Quilcene the Olympic Highway leads + clear through to Olympia. + + +=SEATTLE:= Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated population of +325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, valleys +and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, but sloping +gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire area is +94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, Lake +Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor known as Elliott +Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines while an +elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles connects its +thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. There are +also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all points there is +visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics or Lake +Washington and the Cascades. + +Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its beauty. +Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and at the same +time have increased the area of the city by supplying material for +filling in the tide flats, now occupied by the most valuable factory +sites. The forty-two story Smith Building is the highest in the world +outside of New York. At Salmon Bay the Government is constructing its +second largest locks in a canal to connect the Sound with Lake +Washington. Six transcontinental lines have their terminals in this city +which is also the gateway to Alaska and the home port of the Great +Circle Route. + +[Illustration: SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE, TALLEST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE NEW +YORK.] + + +Within the city one should visit: + + Lake Washington Canal Locks, Fort Lawton, West + Point Lighthouse, Loyal Height. + + University of Washington and A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, + overlooking Lake Washington. + + Lookout Tower at Volunteer Park. + + Lookout on forty-two story Smith Building. + + West Seattle and Alki Point--waterfront camping + sites inside city limits. + + Its many beautiful parks and matchless boulevard + system. + + +Outside trips should include: + + Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, 3 or 4 days--auto or + train. + + Sol Duc, the "Karlsbad of America," and Lake + Crescent, via Port Angeles, 2 days--steamer and + auto. + + Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 day by Snoqualmie + Pass Road. + + Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near + North Bend. + + Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day. + + Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See + pages 29 and 33. + + Whidbey Island--Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still + Park, 1 or 2 days. + + Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds--paved + road. + + Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United + States, half day. Several good auto trips may be + taken from here. + + White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and + Auburn. A paved road extends all the way to Tacoma + and beyond. + + Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and + resort region between Seattle and Tacoma. + + Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett + on way. + + Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain + scenery, fishing and hunting; 1 or 2 days. + + Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the + Olympics. + +[Illustration: MT. BAKER PARK BOULEVARD AND LAKE WASHINGTON + +INTERLAKEN BOULEVARD + +TOTEM POLE IN PIONEER SQUARE + +VOLUNTEER PARK PORTION OF THE FORMAL GARDENS + +HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS.] + + Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake + Washington; go by the Duwamish river route and + return by Rainier Valley. + + Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines. + + See description of other Puget Sound cities, all + reached quickly. + + +=PUYALLUP:= A famous berry center in the rich Puyallup Valley. Over a +quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. All +Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans and +auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour to +Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and the +Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point for +Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern +entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma." + + +[Illustration: TACOMA'S STADIUM. DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT. SEATS +38,000.] + +=TACOMA:= Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance in the +state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the great +harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward the west +while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. Rainier (or Mt. +Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. A complete system +of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the natural beauty. The +residence portion of the city overlooks an extensive manufacturing +section which claims the largest meat packing establishment in the west, +the largest grain warehouse in the world, and the largest smelter west +of Butte City, with one of the tallest cement smokestacks in the world. +Tacoma is also the largest flour milling center west of Minneapolis and +the fifth city in exports and imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed +highway lead south through a vast natural park consisting of broad +prairies dotted with lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or +southeast into the famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its +improved parks comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point +Defiance park at northern extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright +Park in center of city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different +varieties. + +Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, seating +38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only one on +a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger depot, model +of its kind; and a speedway of 2 1/10 miles where the motor races of the +northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually. + + +Suggested trips outside of city: + + Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park--see + page 49. + + Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy + farms. + + American Lake, camping headquarters for the + National Guard. + + Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, + summer resorts on southern outskirts of city. Some + of the best natural roads in the world. + + Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake + Cushman and the Olympic Mountains--excellent + roads. + + Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer--immense water + power plants. + + Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild + Cat Falls. + + Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm--dozens of lakes in + vicinity. + + Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover + Creek. + + Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, + McNeils, Anderson and other islands. + + See also descriptions of other Puget Sound cities. + + +=OLYMPIA:= "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the Northwest," and +seat of state government. Three railroads and four state highways +converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low verdure covered +hills protecting the city and extending out along the shores. The +mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on the north, is +Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon trail is marked +by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. Tumwater, a mile +away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget Sound. In Olympia the +first store was opened for business in the state. The Old New England +Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial functions, is marked forever +by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, and the homes of the first +Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and General R. H. Milroy are +still to be seen. + + +Trips should include: + + Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls--trolley + cars, paved road. + + Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black + Lake, 5 miles; Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; + Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; Bloom's and Hewitt's + Lakes, 2 miles. + + Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux + Logging Camps. + + Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small + islands. + + Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and + Lake Cushman, 45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains + and Canal always in sight. + + Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper + Sound points. + + +=ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM:= Two cities on Grays Harbor, connected by +electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the southern route. +Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aberdeen), an increase +of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to lumbering and fishing +industries, but farming and dairying are gaining. Near by are some of +the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, including the +Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm ocean beaches +a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race tracks. Three +transcontinental trains serve the district. + +[Illustration: WRIGHT PARK + +A ROSE ARBOR + +POINT DEFIANCE PARK AND PUGET SOUND + +A SUBURBAN HOME ON AMERICAN LAKE + +IN AND ABOUT TACOMA.] + + +Suggested trips: + + Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just + across the Chehalis River. A trolley line connects + it with Aberdeen. + + Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sunset and Moclips + beaches, by auto, train or boat--ideal summer + resorts. + + Point Grenville and Cape Elizabeth, bold headlands + of the Olympics on either side of the Quiniault + River; near by are sporting grounds of the sea + lions. + + Montesano, county seat, at junction of Wynooche + with the Chehalis River (boat, train or auto). + Land near by produces 125 bushels of oats or 80 + tons of rutabagas to the acre. + + Around the harbor visiting Whaling station, + Government jetty and light house; see crab + fisheries; enjoy ocean swell. + + Humptulips Valley and Lake Quiniault in the Indian + Reservation; returning by canoe down Quiniault + River to Tahola, near the oil prospects; or + continue into the Olympics as far as desired. + + Read also "Harbor Country" chapter. + +[Illustration: HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES.] + + +=SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND:= Two progressive cities in southwestern +Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. Lumbering, +farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture are +sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country." + + +=CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS:= Important railroad centers four miles apart, +connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and Portland. Combined +population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A rich dairy and farm +country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, the Newaukum and +Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Centralia daily. Coal mines, +farms and lumber are important. Between cities are Southwest Washington +Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county seat, is a large condensery. The +Pacific Highway and the Rainier National Park Highway cross near by. + + +Suggested trips: + + The oldest Temple of Justice in the state--built + in 1851. + + Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of + Skookumchuck and Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn + where Gen. Grant stopped. + + Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. + Girl's school just north of Centralia. + + Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station. + + Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at + Tenino. + + Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs + Falls, Cowlitz Gorge. + + Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at + Winlock, Napavine, Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and + other pretty towns. See smelt fisheries and + ocean-going cigar shaped raft. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle + Rock--two weeks' trip. + + +=VANCOUVER:= Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson Bay +Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible from all +points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke county is +noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal habitat. +Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 acres of land, +300 of which constitute a natural park with many winding roads. State +schools for the deaf and the blind are located near. What is said to be +the oldest apple tree in the Northwest still thrives. Electric lines +extend to the outlying districts, also to Portland, Oregon, while auto +drives may be made along the river, nowhere more picturesque, or through +the surrounding prosperous farming districts. + + +Suggested trips: + + Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles (auto or steam cars). + + Washougal River, 20 miles east (auto or steam + cars). + + Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown Columbia Paper + Mills. + + Lake Merrill, costing $25.00 for four or five + persons. + + Portland, Oregon, the second city in the + Northwest, soon to be connected by a $1,750,000.00 + bridge across the Columbia. + + North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and + camping. + + Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via + Lewis River. + + Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat + county, via White Salmon. + + Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in + Skamania county. + + White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich + picturesque region adapted to orchards and + farming. + + A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to + Celilo Falls. + +[Illustration: A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER.] + + +=GOLDENDALE:= County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. P. & S. +railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with valleys, +mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. Helens, are +always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. Historical sights are +numerous. + + + +[Illustration: BULL SEAL AND HAREM--PRIBILOF ISLANDS + +REINDEER HERD ON LOWER YUKON + +EXCURSION STEAMER NEAR TAKU GLACIER + +HYDRAULIC MINING + +RHUBARB AT SKAGWAY + +ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH.] + + + + +[Illustration: ALASKA,--OUR ALLY + + "A land of allurement and promise, + Bold venture and strenuous deed."] + + +When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alaska awaits you. +Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free empires! This region is so +extensive that even the state of Washington would be lost in its midst, +for its area is equal to that of the original thirteen colonies, with +Maine, Vermont, Ohio, Indiana, Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown +in, or one-fifth of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude +of 1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the +Atlantic to the Pacific. + +In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupendous mountains +reach to three and nearly four miles in height, loftier than any others +in the United States or its possessions. The Yukon River is 2,300 miles +in length and its nearest rival, 1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in +North America are here, which make those of Europe look like mere +pygmies, and volcanoes still in eruption may be viewed from a safe +point. The scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the +snowy peaks beyond is truly magnificent. + +It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there had been +produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price paid for its +purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each white person now +inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold mining and within the last +twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, seals, furs, copper and +silver--permanent resources of region. + +Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its latitude is +similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washington and as the Gulf +Stream affects England. Both plant and animal life flourish and about +100,000 square miles of land are available for agricultural purposes. + +To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip from +Seattle--a thousand miles of calm sea. + +[Illustration: MAP OF WASHINGTON] + +[Illustration: SEAL-OF-THE-STATE-OF-WASHINGTON] + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Page 22, "occurences" changed to "occurrences" (occurrences that so +often) + +Page 32, "stupenduous" changed to "stupendous" (the stupendous sum) + +Page 49, repeated word "of" removed from text. Text now reads (waters of +Puget Sound) + +Page 49, "State" changed to "States" (pinnacle in the United States) + +Page 67, "panaroma" changed to "panorama" (unfolds a panorama) + +Text uses both historic and current spelling of Whidby/Whidbey Island. + +This book spells "throroughfare" as "thorofare". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Beauties of the State of Washington, by +Harry F. 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