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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30320 ***
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+  TO MY MOTHER,
+  TO MY WIFE;
+  LIKEWISE TO
+  THE PREACHERS OF
+  UTAH MISSION
+  AND
+  IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  PREFACE                                                            9
+  GOD'S MINISTER                                                    11
+  THE WESTERN TRAIL                                                 13
+  THE LONG TRAIL                                                    19
+  THE DESERT                                                        31
+  SAGEBRUSH                                                         39
+  THE IRON TRAIL                                                    47
+      A Railroad Saint in Idaho                                     49
+      An Unusual Kindness                                           59
+  INDIANS OF THE TRAIL                                              63
+      Introductory Words                                            65
+      Pocatello, the Chief                                          67
+      The Babyless Mother                                           72
+      Mary Muskrat                                                  76
+      Bad Ben                                                       79
+      A Three-Cornered Sermon                                       82
+      Three Years After                                             87
+      Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa                             92
+      The White Man's Book                                          96
+  LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS                                             99
+  THE STAGECOACH                                                   107
+  AMONG THE HILLS                                                  117
+      The Mother Deer                                              119
+      The Shepherd                                                 121
+      The Feathered Drummer                                        122
+  MORMONDOM                                                        123
+      The Trail of the Mormon                                      125
+      Some Mormon Beliefs                                          131
+      Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist                                    138
+      Polygamy of To-Day                                           145
+  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                  149
+  ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE                                              157
+  THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD                                       167
+  THE GREAT NORTHWEST                                              175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  J. D. Gillilan                                        _Frontispiece_
+  Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian                                    64
+  Wallowa Lake                                                      94
+  End of the Trail                                                 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the répertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+                 _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+           As terrace upon terrace
+           Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+           And stretch away to dizzy heights
+           To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+           From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+           With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+                   Bare of other cloak--
+           Transforming them to rains and snows
+           To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+           So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+           High reaches out above all earthly things
+           And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+           Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+                   Richest of blessings,
+                   Holiest fruit of heaven--
+           Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+           That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+           And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+                   To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+                  And step by step since time began
+                  I see the steady gain of man.
+                                        --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+              Those mighty pyramids of stone
+                That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+              When nearer seen and better known
+                Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+                                        --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the cañony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+             Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+             And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+                                               --_Gray_.
+
+           As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+           their maps parts of the world which they do not
+           know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+           effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+           deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+           bogs.
+                                             --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+             This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+       The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+            There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+              In their houses of self-content;
+            There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+              In their fellowless firmament.
+            There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+              Where highways never ran.
+            But, let me live by the side of the road
+              And be a friend to man.
+                                        --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated cañons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+               That best portion of a good man's life--
+               His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+               Of kindness and of love.
+                                          --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+                   Man's inhumanity to man
+                   Makes countless thousands mourn.
+                   --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+             The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+             Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+                                              --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there cañon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+  Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+  because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+  Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+  these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+  A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+  [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+  So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+  return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+  and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+                  Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+                    Where'er it enters in
+                  Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+                    To slay the man of sin.
+                                    --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+                  Father of all! in every age,
+                    In every clime adored,
+                  By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+                    Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+                                --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+  Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble cañon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+            The book--this holy book, on every line
+            Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+            On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+            Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+            And signature of God Almighty stampt
+            From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+            This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+            Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+            Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+            And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+            And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+            And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+            Believed, obey'd.
+                                               --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+  [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+                    I love thy rocks and rills,
+                    Thy woods and templed hills,
+                    My heart with rapture thrills.
+                                        --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious cañons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+                 The distant mountains, that uprear
+                   Their solid bastions to the skies,
+                 Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+                   As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning cañon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+                  My high-blown pride
+            At length broke under me and now has left me,
+            Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+            Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+                                         --_Shakespeare_.
+
+  Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+  in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+                        Men of every station
+                          In the eye of fame,
+                        On a common level
+                          Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest répertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+             To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+             Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+             A various language;...
+                                      The hills
+             Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+                                              --_Bryant_.
+
+             Not vainly did the early Persian make
+             His altar the high places and the peak
+             Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+             A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+             The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+             Upreared of human hands.... compare
+             Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+             With Nature's realm of worship.
+                                               --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+              The ragged sky-line high in air
+              Sits boundary to sight
+              And seems to end the world;
+              But topping it by way well worn by braver
+                  pioneer,
+              A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+              Where love holds warm,
+              And schools and churches dot the land.
+              But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+              With load of dust-clad travelers
+              Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+              The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+              Winding in and out among the stately
+                  pines
+              (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+                  moss
+              O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+                  life),
+              May now be seen a mother deer
+              Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+              Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+              And motionless. In silence all
+              The passengers admire the instinct-love
+              Which not affrights the spotted babe
+              Fast sleeping at her feet.
+              "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+              "But if there were, how could one's heart
+              Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+              Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+             The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+             That with their lambs are unafraid
+             Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+             They crouch close in about his feet
+             Whene'er the coyote's cry
+             Or bear's low growl
+             Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+             Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+             And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+             And scented chaparral so dense,
+             To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+             Of the prowler of the hills;
+             While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+             Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+             The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+                 The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+                 The air in springtime afternoons
+                 Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+                 Whose echoes clear reverberate
+                 From precipice and timbered hills.
+                 No fifer plays accompaniment;
+                 No pageant proud or marching throng
+                 Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+                 Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+                 A double challenge is this gage,
+                 A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+                 As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+                 Defies his neighboring lord:
+                 So calls this crested pheasant-king
+                 For combat or for peace.
+                 The meek brown mate upon her nest
+                 Feels happy and secure
+                 While thus her lord by deed and word
+                 Displays his woodland bravery
+                 And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+  That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+  one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+  Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+  Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+  ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Mörk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy cañons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+  His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+            Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+            Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+            Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+            More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+            Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+            Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+                            --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+               "... who, yet alive, have gone
+               Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+               Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+  3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+  be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+  4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+  Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+  the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+  the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+                       HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+                O my Father, thou that dwellest
+                  In the high and glorious place!
+                When shall I regain thy presence,
+                  And again behold thy face?
+                In thy holy habitation,
+                  Did my spirit once reside?
+                In my first primeval childhood,
+                  Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+                For a wise and glorious purpose
+                  Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+                And withheld the recollection
+                  Of my former friends and birth;
+                Yet ofttimes a secret something
+                  Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+                And I felt that I had wandered
+                  From a more exalted sphere.
+
+                I had learned to call thee Father,
+                  Through thy Spirit from on high;
+                But, until the Key of Knowledge
+                  Was restored, I knew not why.
+                In the heavens are parents single?
+                  No; the thought makes reason stare!
+                Truth is reason; truth eternal
+                  Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+                When I leave this frail existence,
+                  When I lay this mortal by,
+                Father, mother, may I meet you
+                  In your royal court on high?
+                Then, at length, when I've completed
+                  All you sent me forth to do,
+                With your mutual approbation
+                  Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+  [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+            Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+            Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+            His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+            Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+                                                --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and cañons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+            The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+            Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+            Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+                                          --_John Tobin_.
+
+                       A baby was sleeping,
+                       Its mother was weeping.
+                       --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+                   So lonely 'twas that God himself
+                   Scarce seemed there to be.
+                                     --_Coleridge_.
+
+                      This is truth the poet sings
+            That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+                happier things.
+                                             --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the cañon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvæ,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+              I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+              Would harrow up thy soul.
+                                        --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+  "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of color,"
+  Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+  As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+  He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+                                        And then,
+  With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+  And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+  Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+  A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+  I heartily pitied him even before
+  I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+  Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+  Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+  That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+                           "He hed a small pack--
+  A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+  In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+  When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+  Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+  a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+  Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+  His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+  Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+  T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+  "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+  But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+  'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+  His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+  So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+  Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+  An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found  it--slow
+  An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+  Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+  That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+  Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+  "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+  I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+  I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+  If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+  With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+                                    "An' so I begun.
+  I quit workin' my claim
+  Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+  An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+  An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+  Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+  Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+  Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+  Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+  An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+  So I shouldered my task.
+
+                              "It wuz wonderful how
+  The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+  (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+  O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+  Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+  Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+  When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+  An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+  As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+  So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+  I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+  "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+  He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+  Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+  A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+  'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+  If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+  Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+  Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+  After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+  O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+  'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+  Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+  Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+  My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+  But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+  Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+  I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+  "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+  An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+  Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+  So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+  Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+  An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+  He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+  Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+  I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+  An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+                               "But, I'd none:
+  I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+  I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+  Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+  'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+  No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+  I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+  He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+  His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+  I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+  But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+  "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+  But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+  An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+  An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+  That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+  "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+  He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+  Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+  He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+  Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+  But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+  "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+  There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+  'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+  He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+  'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+  The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+        an' over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+            The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+            And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+                                              --_Southey_.
+
+                What matter how the night behaved?
+                What matter how the north wind raved?
+                                        --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anæsthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+              ... amid the encircling gloom,
+                Lead thou me on!
+              The night is dark and I am far from home;
+                Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+  God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+  planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+  Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+  In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+  desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+  thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_littérateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+                        The best of the best
+                        Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30320 ***
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+  TO MY MOTHER,
+  TO MY WIFE;
+  LIKEWISE TO
+  THE PREACHERS OF
+  UTAH MISSION
+  AND
+  IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  PREFACE                                                            9
+  GOD'S MINISTER                                                    11
+  THE WESTERN TRAIL                                                 13
+  THE LONG TRAIL                                                    19
+  THE DESERT                                                        31
+  SAGEBRUSH                                                         39
+  THE IRON TRAIL                                                    47
+      A Railroad Saint in Idaho                                     49
+      An Unusual Kindness                                           59
+  INDIANS OF THE TRAIL                                              63
+      Introductory Words                                            65
+      Pocatello, the Chief                                          67
+      The Babyless Mother                                           72
+      Mary Muskrat                                                  76
+      Bad Ben                                                       79
+      A Three-Cornered Sermon                                       82
+      Three Years After                                             87
+      Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa                             92
+      The White Man's Book                                          96
+  LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS                                             99
+  THE STAGECOACH                                                   107
+  AMONG THE HILLS                                                  117
+      The Mother Deer                                              119
+      The Shepherd                                                 121
+      The Feathered Drummer                                        122
+  MORMONDOM                                                        123
+      The Trail of the Mormon                                      125
+      Some Mormon Beliefs                                          131
+      Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist                                    138
+      Polygamy of To-Day                                           145
+  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                  149
+  ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE                                              157
+  THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD                                       167
+  THE GREAT NORTHWEST                                              175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  J. D. Gillilan                                        _Frontispiece_
+  Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian                                    64
+  Wallowa Lake                                                      94
+  End of the Trail                                                 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the répertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+                 _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+           As terrace upon terrace
+           Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+           And stretch away to dizzy heights
+           To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+           From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+           With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+                   Bare of other cloak--
+           Transforming them to rains and snows
+           To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+           So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+           High reaches out above all earthly things
+           And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+           Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+                   Richest of blessings,
+                   Holiest fruit of heaven--
+           Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+           That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+           And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+                   To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+                  And step by step since time began
+                  I see the steady gain of man.
+                                        --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+              Those mighty pyramids of stone
+                That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+              When nearer seen and better known
+                Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+                                        --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the cañony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+             Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+             And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+                                               --_Gray_.
+
+           As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+           their maps parts of the world which they do not
+           know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+           effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+           deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+           bogs.
+                                             --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+             This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+       The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+            There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+              In their houses of self-content;
+            There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+              In their fellowless firmament.
+            There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+              Where highways never ran.
+            But, let me live by the side of the road
+              And be a friend to man.
+                                        --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated cañons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+               That best portion of a good man's life--
+               His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+               Of kindness and of love.
+                                          --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+                   Man's inhumanity to man
+                   Makes countless thousands mourn.
+                   --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+             The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+             Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+                                              --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there cañon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+  Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+  because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+  Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+  these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+  A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+  [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+  So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+  return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+  and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+                  Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+                    Where'er it enters in
+                  Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+                    To slay the man of sin.
+                                    --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+                  Father of all! in every age,
+                    In every clime adored,
+                  By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+                    Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+                                --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+  Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble cañon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+            The book--this holy book, on every line
+            Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+            On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+            Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+            And signature of God Almighty stampt
+            From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+            This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+            Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+            Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+            And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+            And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+            And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+            Believed, obey'd.
+                                               --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+  [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+                    I love thy rocks and rills,
+                    Thy woods and templed hills,
+                    My heart with rapture thrills.
+                                        --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious cañons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+                 The distant mountains, that uprear
+                   Their solid bastions to the skies,
+                 Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+                   As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning cañon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+                  My high-blown pride
+            At length broke under me and now has left me,
+            Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+            Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+                                         --_Shakespeare_.
+
+  Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+  in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+                        Men of every station
+                          In the eye of fame,
+                        On a common level
+                          Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest répertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+             To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+             Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+             A various language;...
+                                      The hills
+             Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+                                              --_Bryant_.
+
+             Not vainly did the early Persian make
+             His altar the high places and the peak
+             Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+             A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+             The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+             Upreared of human hands.... compare
+             Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+             With Nature's realm of worship.
+                                               --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+              The ragged sky-line high in air
+              Sits boundary to sight
+              And seems to end the world;
+              But topping it by way well worn by braver
+                  pioneer,
+              A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+              Where love holds warm,
+              And schools and churches dot the land.
+              But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+              With load of dust-clad travelers
+              Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+              The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+              Winding in and out among the stately
+                  pines
+              (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+                  moss
+              O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+                  life),
+              May now be seen a mother deer
+              Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+              Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+              And motionless. In silence all
+              The passengers admire the instinct-love
+              Which not affrights the spotted babe
+              Fast sleeping at her feet.
+              "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+              "But if there were, how could one's heart
+              Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+              Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+             The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+             That with their lambs are unafraid
+             Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+             They crouch close in about his feet
+             Whene'er the coyote's cry
+             Or bear's low growl
+             Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+             Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+             And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+             And scented chaparral so dense,
+             To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+             Of the prowler of the hills;
+             While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+             Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+             The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+                 The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+                 The air in springtime afternoons
+                 Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+                 Whose echoes clear reverberate
+                 From precipice and timbered hills.
+                 No fifer plays accompaniment;
+                 No pageant proud or marching throng
+                 Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+                 Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+                 A double challenge is this gage,
+                 A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+                 As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+                 Defies his neighboring lord:
+                 So calls this crested pheasant-king
+                 For combat or for peace.
+                 The meek brown mate upon her nest
+                 Feels happy and secure
+                 While thus her lord by deed and word
+                 Displays his woodland bravery
+                 And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+  That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+  one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+  Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+  Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+  ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Mörk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy cañons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+  His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+            Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+            Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+            Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+            More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+            Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+            Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+                            --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+               "... who, yet alive, have gone
+               Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+               Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+  3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+  be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+  4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+  Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+  the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+  the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+                       HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+                O my Father, thou that dwellest
+                  In the high and glorious place!
+                When shall I regain thy presence,
+                  And again behold thy face?
+                In thy holy habitation,
+                  Did my spirit once reside?
+                In my first primeval childhood,
+                  Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+                For a wise and glorious purpose
+                  Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+                And withheld the recollection
+                  Of my former friends and birth;
+                Yet ofttimes a secret something
+                  Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+                And I felt that I had wandered
+                  From a more exalted sphere.
+
+                I had learned to call thee Father,
+                  Through thy Spirit from on high;
+                But, until the Key of Knowledge
+                  Was restored, I knew not why.
+                In the heavens are parents single?
+                  No; the thought makes reason stare!
+                Truth is reason; truth eternal
+                  Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+                When I leave this frail existence,
+                  When I lay this mortal by,
+                Father, mother, may I meet you
+                  In your royal court on high?
+                Then, at length, when I've completed
+                  All you sent me forth to do,
+                With your mutual approbation
+                  Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+  [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+            Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+            Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+            His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+            Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+                                                --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and cañons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+            The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+            Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+            Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+                                          --_John Tobin_.
+
+                       A baby was sleeping,
+                       Its mother was weeping.
+                       --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+                   So lonely 'twas that God himself
+                   Scarce seemed there to be.
+                                     --_Coleridge_.
+
+                      This is truth the poet sings
+            That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+                happier things.
+                                             --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the cañon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvæ,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+              I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+              Would harrow up thy soul.
+                                        --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+  "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of color,"
+  Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+  As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+  He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+                                        And then,
+  With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+  And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+  Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+  A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+  I heartily pitied him even before
+  I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+  Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+  Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+  That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+                           "He hed a small pack--
+  A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+  In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+  When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+  Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+  a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+  Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+  His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+  Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+  T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+  "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+  But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+  'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+  His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+  So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+  Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+  An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found  it--slow
+  An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+  Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+  That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+  Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+  "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+  I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+  I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+  If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+  With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+                                    "An' so I begun.
+  I quit workin' my claim
+  Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+  An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+  An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+  Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+  Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+  Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+  Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+  An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+  So I shouldered my task.
+
+                              "It wuz wonderful how
+  The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+  (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+  O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+  Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+  Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+  When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+  An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+  As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+  So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+  I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+  "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+  He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+  Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+  A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+  'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+  If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+  Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+  Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+  After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+  O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+  'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+  Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+  Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+  My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+  But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+  Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+  I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+  "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+  An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+  Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+  So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+  Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+  An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+  He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+  Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+  I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+  An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+                               "But, I'd none:
+  I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+  I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+  Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+  'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+  No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+  I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+  He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+  His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+  I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+  But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+  "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+  But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+  An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+  An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+  That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+  "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+  He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+  Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+  He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+  Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+  But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+  "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+  There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+  'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+  He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+  'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+  The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+        an' over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+            The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+            And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+                                              --_Southey_.
+
+                What matter how the night behaved?
+                What matter how the north wind raved?
+                                        --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anæsthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+              ... amid the encircling gloom,
+                Lead thou me on!
+              The night is dark and I am far from home;
+                Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+  God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+  planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+  Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+  In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+  desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+  thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_littérateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+                        The best of the best
+                        Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
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+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan.</title>
+
+<style type="text/css">
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+      hr.pb           {margin:30px 0; width:100%; border:none;border-top:thin dashed silver;}
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+</head>
+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30320 ***</div>
+
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_1' id='linki_1'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/f0001-image.jpg' alt='' title='' width='389' height='653' /><br />
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h1>TRAIL TALES</h1>
+<p class='tp' >BY</p>
+<p class='tp' style='font-size:1.2em;'>JAMES DAVID GILLILAN</p>
+
+<div style='margin:60px auto; text-align:center;'>
+<img alt='emblem' src='images/f0002-image.jpg' />
+</div>
+
+<p class='tp' style='font-size:larger;'>THE ABINGDON PRESS</p>
+<p class='tp' style='margin-bottom:20px;'>NEW YORK&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;CINCINNATI</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<p class='tp' >Copyright, 1915, by<br />JAMES DAVID GILLILAN</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<p class='tp' style='margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:20px;'>DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY<br />
+TO MY MOTHER,<br />
+TO MY WIFE;<br />
+LIKEWISE TO<br />
+THE PREACHERS OF<br />
+UTAH MISSION<br />
+AND<br />
+IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<table border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Contents' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Preface</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#PREFACE'>9</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>God&rsquo;s Minister</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#GODS_MINISTER'>11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Western Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WESTERN_TRAIL'>13</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Long Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_LONG_TRAIL'>19</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Desert</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_DESERT'>31</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Sagebrush</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#SAGEBRUSH'>39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Iron Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_IRON_TRAIL'>47</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Railroad Saint in Idaho</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO'>49</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;An Unusual Kindness</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS'>59</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Indians of the Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL'>63</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Introductory Words</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#INTRODUCTORY_WORDS'>65</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pocatello, the Chief</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF'>67</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Babyless Mother</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER'>72</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mary Muskrat</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#MARY_MUSKRAT'>76</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bad Ben</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#BAD_BEN'>79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Three-Cornered Sermon</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#A_THREECORNERED_SERMON'>82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Three Years After</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THREE_YEARS_AFTER'>87</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA'>92</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The White Man&rsquo;s Book</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK'>96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Lights and Sidelights</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS'>99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Stagecoach</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_STAGECOACH'>107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Among the Hills</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#AMONG_THE_HILLS'>117</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Mother Deer</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_MOTHER_DEER'>119</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Shepherd</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_SHEPHERD'>121</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Feathered Drummer</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER'>122</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Mormondom</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#MORMONDOM'>123</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Trail of the Mormon</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON'>125</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Some Mormon Beliefs</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS'>131</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST'>138</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Polygamy of To-Day</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY'>145</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Great Salt Lake</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#GREAT_SALT_LAKE'>149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Argonaut Sam&rsquo;s Tale</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE'>157</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Wraith of the Blizzard</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD'>167</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Great Northwest</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST'>175</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h3>ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<table border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Illustrations' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<col style='width:75%;' />
+<col style='width:25%;' />
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>J. D. Gillilan</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_1'><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_2'>64</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>Wallowa Lake</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_3'>94</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>End of the Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_4'>183</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_9' name='page_9'></a>9</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='PREFACE' id='PREFACE'></a>
+<h2>PREFACE</h2>
+</div>
+<p>In his young manhood the writer of
+these sketches came up into this realm of
+widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters,
+and happiest people to engraft the green
+twig of his life upon the activities of the
+mountaineers of the thrilling West.</p>
+<p>At that time the vast plains and the barren
+valleys were silvered over with the
+ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily
+and aimlessly the many unharnessed arroyo-making
+streams waiting only the appearance
+of their master, man. Under his scientific,
+skilled, and economic guidance these
+wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to
+work, taking the place of clouds where there
+are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the
+well-nigh illimitable acres of grain and other
+home-making products.</p>
+<p>The West has an abundant variety of
+life of a sort most intensely human. Life,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_10' name='page_10'></a>10</span>
+always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands,
+seems to have accentuated individuality
+here in a wondrous and contagious degree.</p>
+<p>These few stories, culled from the r&eacute;pertoire
+of an active life of more than thirty
+years, are samples of personal experiences,
+and are taken almost at random from
+mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.</p>
+<p>As a minister the writer has had wide
+and varied opportunities in all the Northwest,
+but more especially in Utah, Oregon,
+and Idaho. Many a man much more modest
+has far excelled him in life experiences,
+but some of them have never told.</p>
+<p>This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately
+dedicated to them of the Trails.</p>
+<p class='ralign'>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_11' name='page_11'></a>11</span>
+<a name='GODS_MINISTER' id='GODS_MINISTER'></a>
+<h2>GOD&rsquo;S MINISTER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='center cg'><i>Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers</i></p>
+<p class='cg'><br />
+As terrace upon terrace<br />
+Rise the mountains o&rsquo;er the humbler hills<br />
+And stretch away to dizzy heights<br />
+To meet heaven&rsquo;s own pure blue;<br />
+From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds<br />
+With which to wrap their heads and shoulders&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Bare of other cloak&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+Transforming them to rains and snows<br />
+To bless this elsewise desert world:<br />
+<br />
+So, he who stands God&rsquo;s minister &rsquo;mong men,<br />
+High reaches out above all earthly things<br />
+And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;<br />
+Conveys them down in blessings to mankind&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Richest of blessings,<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Holiest fruit of heaven&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life<br />
+That springs hard by the Lamb&rsquo;s white throne,<br />
+And bears the plenteous leaves which grow<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>To heal the wounded nations.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_13' name='page_13'></a>13</span></div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_WESTERN_TRAIL' id='THE_WESTERN_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE WESTERN TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_14' name='page_14'></a>14</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>And step by step since time began<br />
+I see the steady gain of man.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Whittier.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_15' name='page_15'></a>15</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE WESTERN TRAIL</p>
+<p>&ldquo;An overland highway to the Western
+sea&rdquo; was the thought variously expressed
+by many men in both public and private
+life among the French, English, and Americans
+from very early times. In 1659
+Pierre Radisson and a companion, by way
+of the Great Lakes, Fox, and &ldquo;Ouisconsing&rdquo;
+Rivers, discovered the &ldquo;east fork&rdquo; of the
+&ldquo;Great River&rdquo; and crossed to the &ldquo;west
+fork,&rdquo; up which they went into what is
+now the Dakotas, only to find it going
+still &ldquo;interminably westward.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by
+the same route up the &ldquo;east fork&rdquo; to Saint
+Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada,
+to learn from the Assiniboin Indians
+the existence of the &ldquo;Shining Mountains&rdquo;
+and that beyond them was the &ldquo;Oregan,&rdquo;
+which went to the salt sea.</p>
+<p>As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote
+to George Rogers Clark to tell him he understood
+the English had subscribed a very
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_16' name='page_16'></a>16</span>
+large sum of money for exploration of the
+country west of the Mississippi, and as far
+as California. He even expressed himself as
+being desirous of forming a party of Americans
+to make the trip.</p>
+<p>Twenty years later, under the direction of
+<i>President</i> Thomas Jefferson, General Clark
+was made a member of the Lewis and
+Clark Expedition, which went up the &ldquo;great
+river&rdquo; and ultimately crossed through Montana
+and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?)
+and the &ldquo;salt sea.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Zebulon Pike was turned back by the
+imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806. A
+few years later Captain Bonneville braved
+the plains, the plateaus, the mountain
+passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia.
+Then continuous migrations finally
+fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.</p>
+<p>The Mormons followed this national road
+when they trekked to the valley of Salt
+Lake in 1847&ndash;&ndash;a dolorous path to many.</p>
+<p>Because the Oregon Trail was nature&rsquo;s
+way, man and commerce made it their
+way. Road sites are not like city sites&ndash;&ndash;made
+to order; they are discovered. For
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_17' name='page_17'></a>17</span>
+that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental
+also followed this trail. The Union
+Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and
+their graves. From the mouth of the
+Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains
+and beyond is a continuous cemetery
+of nameless tombs.</p>
+<p>The next few pages will give some
+sketches of fact depicting scenes of sunlight
+and shadow that fell on this highway
+in days not so very long agone.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_19' name='page_19'></a>19</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_LONG_TRAIL' id='THE_LONG_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE LONG TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_20' name='page_20'></a>20</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Those mighty pyramids of stone<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,<br />
+When nearer seen and better known<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Are but gigantic flights of stairs.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_21' name='page_21'></a>21</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE LONG TRAIL</p>
+<p>The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri
+River to the Willamette is a distance
+of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason
+Lee and Marcus Whitman sanctioned its
+use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers
+and adventurers, good and bad, had
+mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped
+passes, where the storm stands
+sentinel and guards the granite ways among
+the rough Rocky Mountains. They had
+followed the falls-filled Snake and the
+calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand
+miles or more among basaltic bastions
+buttressing the mountain sides, or through
+the lava lands where cavernous chasms
+yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.</p>
+<p>In the early forties of the nineteenth
+century restless spirits from Missouri and
+eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_22' name='page_22'></a>22</span>
+West and locate in the land where storms
+seldom come and where the extremes of
+heat and cold are unknown&ndash;&ndash;Willamette
+Valley, Oregon.</p>
+<p>In these early days, a farmer, whom we
+shall name Johnson, with wife and son,
+hoping to better conditions and prolong life,
+thus sought the goal toward the setting sun.
+Starting when the sturdy spring was enlivening
+all nature, they left the malarial
+marshes of the Mississippi Valley, where
+quinine and whisky for &ldquo;fevernagur&rdquo; were
+to be had at every crossroads store, and in a
+couple of weeks found themselves west of
+the muddy Missouri, where the herds of
+humped bison grazed as yet unafraid among
+the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.</p>
+<p>Barring a few common hindrances, they
+went well and reached the higher and
+hotter plains in midsummer; they were out
+of the sight of hills and trees&ndash;&ndash;just one
+weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day
+after day. Mrs. Johnson had not been
+well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she
+began gradually to lose strength.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_23' name='page_23'></a>23</span></div>
+<p>But she was made of the uncomplaining
+material pioneers are wrought of, the ones
+who so lived, loved, and labored that the
+hard-earned sweets of civilization grew to
+highest perfection about their graves, and
+proved the most enduring monument to
+their memory. She never murmured other
+than to ask occasionally: &ldquo;Father, how
+much farther? Isn&rsquo;t it a wonderfully long
+way to Oregon?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Just over that next range of hills, I
+think, from what the trappers told me,&rdquo;
+was the reply, after they had come to the
+toes of the foothills that terminate the
+long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies. But
+he did not know the stealth of the mountains
+nor the fantastic pranks the ca&ntilde;ony
+ranges can play upon the stranger. A
+snowy-haired peak, brother to Father
+Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for
+his neckruff, would play hide-and-seek
+with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of
+that hill, only to reappear apparently as
+far off as ever, and sometimes in a different
+direction from where he last seemed
+to be.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_24' name='page_24'></a>24</span></div>
+<p>After a few more days: &ldquo;Father, how
+many more miles do you think?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;O, not many now, I am sure!&rdquo; cheerily
+and optimistically would come the answer.</p>
+<p>As they climbed, and climbed, and
+climbed, the ripening service-berry, blackened
+by weeks of attention by the unclouded
+sun, and the pine-hen and the
+speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams,
+added to their comforts, and for a
+little while appeared to enliven the tired
+and fading woman. A frosty night or two,
+a peak newly whitened with early snow,
+put an invigorating thrill and pulse into
+the blood of the man and the boy, but she
+crept just a little nearer to the camp fire
+of evenings and found herself more and
+more languid in responding to the call of
+the day that returned all too soon for her.
+At last, rolling out on the Wahsatch side
+of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while
+the nights grew chillier. Having passed to
+the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well
+and faithfully marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in
+recent years, they began to realize that they
+were with the waters that flow to the west.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_25' name='page_25'></a>25</span></div>
+<p>One evening, after the tin plates, iron
+forks and knives, and the pewter spoons
+had been washed and returned to their box,
+and as they were getting ready for their
+nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+&ldquo;Father, it just seems to me I would be
+glad if I never would waken again. It
+seems I would enjoy never again hearing the
+everlasting squeech, squeech of the wheels
+in the sand, and see the sun go down day
+after day so red and so far away over those
+new mountains. O, I am so tired!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Never mind, mother, we are not far
+from our new home now;&rdquo; and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against
+the wagon-tongue, the man slipped his own
+tired arm about her shoulders and let her
+rest against him, for he was indeed weary,
+and the trail <i>was</i> wonderfully long.</p>
+<p>The following morning he purposely lay
+still just a little longer than was his custom,
+although he was most prudently desirous of
+making as much speed as he could while
+the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make
+travel over unmade roads much worse than
+it already was.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_26' name='page_26'></a>26</span></div>
+<p>When he arose he noiselessly crept
+away from her side and quietly called the
+boy to go and bring up the horses and the
+cow, cautioning him to take off the horse-bell
+and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly
+as possible he made the fire and prepared
+their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming
+scantier. Then, when all was ready,
+he tiptoed through the sand to where she
+lay under the spreading arms of a little
+desert juniper, such as are occasionally
+found in the deserts, and where she had
+said the night before she wished she could
+sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed
+like robbery to take from her one moment
+of the longed-for and hard-earned rest.
+Yet it was time they were on their road, and
+the day was fine; so after a few minutes he
+called, gently, &ldquo;Mother, you&rsquo;re getting a
+nice rest, aren&rsquo;t you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She did not stir. He then stooped to
+kiss the languid lips&ndash;&ndash;they were cold. She
+was dead. They had been seeking a home
+by the shores of the sunset sea; she had
+found the sunrise land.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_27' name='page_27'></a>27</span></div>
+<p>It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be
+with our dead, but to be alone, hundreds of
+miles from the face of any friend, in such
+an hour, is an experience few ever have to
+meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans the
+horizon, locating all the prominent features
+of the landscape. He makes a rude map,
+not forgetting the juniper. As best he can
+he prepares the body for the burying. And
+such a burying! No lumber with which to
+make even a rough box; nothing but their
+daily clothing and nightly bedding was to
+be had. The unlined grave was more than
+usually forbidding. The desert demon had
+trailed that brave body and was now swallowing
+it up. They made the grave by the
+juniper where she last slept, and, sorrowing,
+the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not
+always lie in a desert grave.</p>
+<p>Forty years later a man past middle-age,
+riding a horse and leading another, to
+whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went
+slowly along that old trail in Southern
+Idaho, now almost obliterated by many-footed
+Progress. He was scanning the hills
+and consulting a piece of age-yellowed
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_28' name='page_28'></a>28</span>
+paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It
+was the son obeying the dying request of
+the old father&ndash;&ndash;going to find, if possible,
+the spot where the tired mother went to
+sleep so long ago, and bring all that remained
+to rest by his side.</p>
+<p>It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose
+irrigated areas now presented billowy
+breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches
+like younger and better-behaved rivers; a
+railway following the general direction of
+the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks
+indenting the sky-line once so bare
+of all except clumps of sagebrush&ndash;&ndash;these
+all conspired to make the task next to
+impossible.</p>
+<p>Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot
+mar the majesty of the mountains;
+they were unchanged. The map he carried
+was the one his father made on the
+spot more than a generation before. It
+had been well made and the specifications
+were minute. After a long while, carefully
+measuring and comparing, he found the
+spot to him so sacred. The juniper tree,
+so rare in that section, had not been disturbed
+by the new owner of the land, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_29' name='page_29'></a>29</span>
+as the precious burden, secured at last, was
+borne away, it still stood on guard&ndash;&ndash;as if
+lonely now. Like father, like son. Both
+were faithfully bound by the strongest tie
+in the universe&ndash;&ndash;love!</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_31' name='page_31'></a>31</span>
+<a name='THE_DESERT' id='THE_DESERT'></a>
+<h2>THE DESERT</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_32' name='page_32'></a>32</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,<br />
+And waste its sweetness on the desert air.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Gray</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of<br />
+their maps parts of the world which they do not<br />
+know about, adding notes in the margin to the<br />
+effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy<br />
+deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable<br />
+bogs.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Plutarch</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_33' name='page_33'></a>33</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE DESERT</p>
+<p>Much of the Old Overland Trail lay
+across the &ldquo;Great American Desert,&rdquo; as it
+was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation
+and progressive energy have made
+these wastes in many instances literally to
+&ldquo;blossom as the rose&rdquo;; but until that was
+done these stretches were weary enough.</p>
+<p>He who knows only the desert of the
+geography naturally conceives it an absolutely
+forsaken and empty region where
+nothing but dust-storms are born unattended
+and die &ldquo;without benefit of the
+clergy.&rdquo; But the desert has character and
+is as variable as many another creature.</p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>THE SAND STORM</p>
+<p>An experience in an actual sand storm is
+food upon which the reminiscent may ruminate
+many a day, being much more pleasant
+in memory than in the making. First come
+the scurrying outriders, lithe and limber
+whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_34' name='page_34'></a>34</span>
+Moslem dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler
+or boldly flinging fierce fistfuls of dirt
+into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts&ndash;&ndash;vanishing possibly in the
+same direction whence they came. They
+go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes
+disgustedly, for the act was so sudden and
+tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware
+of it other and stronger gusts duplicate the
+dastardly deed of the first wingless wizard
+of the plains, and the hapless voyager is
+left gasping. Almost immediately there are
+to be seen the regular &ldquo;desert devils,&rdquo; as
+they are called, bringing a dozen or more
+whirling columns of yellow silt rapidly
+through the air, each pirouetting on one
+foot, assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic
+shapes.</p>
+<p>Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of
+a blizzard, the shrapnel of the desert is
+hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils;
+little rivers pour down the back and fill
+every discoverable wrinkle and cranny of
+the clothing with their gritty load.</p>
+<p>If in summer, buttoning the clothing is
+suffocation, and the perspiration soon makes
+one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_35' name='page_35'></a>35</span>
+not so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing
+can be made against the sand and the
+cold.</p>
+<p>The whole landscape is obliterated by and
+by, and the trails are so often drift-filled
+that unless one is himself accustomed to
+such methods of travel or has an experienced
+plainsman as his driver and guide, there is
+danger of becoming lost, or so out of the
+way that night may overtake him and
+compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.</p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>TWILIGHT AND DAWN</p>
+<p>But to see the morning slip off its night
+clothes and step out into daylight, or
+watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle
+down into twilight on the quiet sand-ocean!
+In summer it is a scene of splendor, often
+coming after a day or an evening of sandy
+wrath.</p>
+<p>At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon,
+are the soft pencils of bashful day over-topping
+the jagged sawteeth of the yet
+sleeping mountains, fifty or more miles
+away. A faint hinting of the lightening of
+the sky only deepens the blackness of the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_36' name='page_36'></a>36</span>
+snow-streaked peaks. The cowardly coyote&rsquo;s
+yelp comes more and more faintly,
+the burrowing owl&rsquo;s &ldquo;to-whit, to-whoo&rdquo;
+falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up
+as if to catch the early worm he is almost
+sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit
+slips softly to his greasewood shelter and
+the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for
+his day&rsquo;s digging and foraging.</p>
+<p>The stubborn mountains begin to let the
+sun&rsquo;s forerunning rays glide between them;
+the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming
+into kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds,
+while the swift arms of the day-painter are
+reaching from between the peaks of the
+precipitous crags and dyeing the scales of
+the mackerel sky with hues and tints the
+rainbow would covet.</p>
+<p>In the opposite direction a morning
+mirage inverts an image of a stretch of
+trees along the far-away river and blends
+them top to top till they seem greenish-black
+columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers
+through the half-unreal corridors.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_37' name='page_37'></a>37</span></p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>SUNSET</p>
+<p>The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often
+reaches grandeur. Let it be a winter evening.
+A suggestion of storm has been playing
+threats. The western hills have reached
+up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking
+him away in gold-lace tapestry and
+rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black,
+and brown clouds change quickly to purple,
+pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving
+community of interlacing filaments
+of priceless filigree, till in time too full of
+interest to compute by measure, the whole
+heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy of
+color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making
+one think of the descriptions essayed by
+the writer of the Apocalypse.</p>
+<p>We think of Moses who wished to see
+God &ldquo;face to face,&rdquo; but was told he would
+be permitted to behold only the &ldquo;dying
+away of his glory.&rdquo; No wonder the man
+who was forty years in the wilderness before
+that grand exode, and forty more
+through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled
+to write the majestic prose-poems
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_38' name='page_38'></a>38</span>
+that have lived unaltered through all these
+thousands of critical years! He was in
+the region where inspiration is dispensed
+with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_39' name='page_39'></a>39</span></p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='SAGEBRUSH' id='SAGEBRUSH'></a>
+<h2>SAGEBRUSH</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_40' name='page_40'></a>40</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>This is the forest primeval.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bryant</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_41' name='page_41'></a>41</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>SAGEBRUSH</p>
+<p>Frequently within these pages mention
+has been made of the commonest of all our
+native plants on the Trail&ndash;&ndash;sagebrush. Botanically,
+it is, <i>Artemisia tridentata</i>. The
+new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as &ldquo;any one of the various shrubby species
+of Artemisia, of the aster family, growing
+on the elevated plains of the Western
+United States, especially <i>Artemisia tridentata</i>,
+very abundant from Montana to Colorado
+and westward.&rdquo; The leaf ends in
+three points; hence the adjective tridentata&ndash;&ndash;the
+three-toothed artemisia.</p>
+<p>There are several varieties of sagebrush,
+and a person not well acquainted with the
+desert might easily mistake one for the
+other. There are the white sage, a good
+forage plant for sheep, and the yellow sage,
+which, when properly taken, can be made
+useful for cattle. Then there is the common
+variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_42' name='page_42'></a>42</span>
+which infests the more alkaline regions;
+nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom
+so like the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable
+odor. No man who knows will
+ever buy land where the greasewood grows
+thickly; it is unproductive because of the
+large percentage of alkali. But the ancient-looking
+sage is a pretty sure indication of
+fertility of soil. Mother Nature is sometimes
+hard pushed to find dresses for all
+her poorer areas; of course the better portions
+of the land east or west, north or
+south, care for their clothes better than do
+these arid stretches and the clothing is a
+richer vegetation.</p>
+<p>This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched
+pygmy among trees looks about as much
+like an oak as does a diminutive monkey
+like a grown man.</p>
+<p>A peculiarity of this individual in treedom
+is that it keeps its ash-colored leaf
+until it has a new set to put on in the
+spring, so that all winter long it presents
+the same color as it does in the summertime.
+Its bark is loose and shaggy, being
+shed rapidly, and gives one the thought of
+the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_43' name='page_43'></a>43</span>
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It
+is truly the dry-land plant, always found
+where the alkali or water is not too abundant;
+but in favored spots where there is
+only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows
+eight or ten feet high, making a body
+large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary,
+for usually these Liliputian
+forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive
+are these solemn woods that the
+ordinary gang-plow can walk right through
+them, turning the shrubbery under like tall
+grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the
+resourceful Japanese.</p>
+<p>The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff,
+upright filaments like the broom-corn
+straws. These stems are very bitter and
+are often used by the range-riders on long
+rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far
+from water. Because of its bitterness it is
+often called wormwood.</p>
+<p>Not many uses have been found for the
+wood of these primeval forests. In many
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_44' name='page_44'></a>44</span>
+sections the people have nothing but sagebrush
+for firewood. The whole tree is
+used, special stoves, or heaters, being made
+to accommodate the whole plant. It is
+gathered in the following manner: Two
+immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid
+side by side, one inverted, and securely
+fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which
+pulling parallel to each other, are driven
+into the standing fairy forests and the
+swaths of fallen timber show the track of
+this unnatural storm. Its roots have such
+slight hold on the soil that it easily falls.
+Wagons and pitchforks follow, and the
+whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and
+it is all burned, top and root. There is so
+much vegetable oil in this queer plant that
+it makes a fine and very quick fire, green or
+dry.</p>
+<p>After a summer rain there is no aromatic
+perfume surpassing that of the odor of
+sagebrush filling the newly washed air.
+The mountaineer who has had to make a
+trip East gladly opens his window, as his
+train pushes back into the habitat of these
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_45' name='page_45'></a>45</span>
+aromatic shrubs, to get an early whiff of
+the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere
+of the beloved Westland and homeland.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_47' name='page_47'></a>47</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_IRON_TRAIL' id='THE_IRON_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE IRON TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_48' name='page_48'></a>48</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>There are hermit souls that live withdrawn<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In their houses of self-content;<br />
+There are souls like stars that dwell apart<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In their fellowless firmament.<br />
+There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Where highways never ran.<br />
+But, let me live by the side of the road<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>And be a friend to man.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Sam Walter Foss.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_49' name='page_49'></a>49</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO' id='A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO'></a>
+<h2>A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO</h2>
+</div>
+<p>The &ldquo;railroad saint&rdquo; was a locomotive
+engineer. His life was ever an open book,
+yet while careful and almost severe in his
+personal religious habits, he did not criticize
+the manners of his associates. He
+simply let his well kept searchlight shine.</p>
+<p>Though born in Ohio, his boy life was
+spent mainly in Nebraska, when it was
+just emerging from the ragged swaddlings
+of rough frontierdom; and during his young
+manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time
+when men &ldquo;carried the law in their hip-pockets,&rdquo;
+as he graphically expressed it.</p>
+<p>Early becoming an employee of the
+Union Pacific, he was a permanent portion
+of its westward intermountain extension,
+and he did his life&rsquo;s work among the scenic
+cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags
+and corrugated ca&ntilde;ons of the wrinkled
+ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education
+were very limited to one so engaged,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_50' name='page_50'></a>50</span>
+and little more than what was absolutely
+necessary to the railmen did he receive.
+But he was not ignorant by any means.
+In later years he read extendedly and with
+careful discrimination. He had a poet&rsquo;s
+soul, but was not visionary.</p>
+<p>His mother had been a careful and sensible
+Christian. The indelible impress she
+left upon him was like to that given by
+Jochebed to her son Moses. He never
+wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living
+and became a notorious and blatant blasphemer,
+sceptic, and drunkard.</p>
+<p>Once when attending a national convention
+of railway engineers in an Eastern city
+he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting
+to dispose of his roses. Our
+engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+&ldquo;other fellow&rdquo;) paid the lad for all he had
+left and directed him to carry them to the
+hotel where the delegates were stopping,
+and give them to the ladies in the parlor.
+This act was repeated on successive days.
+It attracted attention finally, and one of
+the delegates asked him if he were a Christian.
+Characteristically he blurted out:
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_51' name='page_51'></a>51</span>
+&ldquo;Do you see anything about me that indicates
+it? If so, I will take it off at once.
+Why do you ask such a question?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Because,&rdquo; said the questioner, &ldquo;your
+kindness to that pale-faced little flower
+boy makes people think you are.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Nothing at all queer about that,&rdquo; was
+the quick reply. &ldquo;Common humanity
+should dictate such deeds. If I myself
+wanted a favor, I&rsquo;d not go to any Christian
+for it; I&rsquo;d rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Dr. T&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, of the Methodist
+Church, has heard of you,&rdquo; remarked his
+questioner, &ldquo;and he says he would like to
+meet you for an hour or so before you
+leave the city.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But I&rsquo;ve no desire to meet any preacher,
+though if it will afford the gentleman any
+pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason
+and no other. What do you suppose he
+wants?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The intermediary arranged a time of
+meeting, and after introducing the men,
+left the &ldquo;eagle eye&rdquo; in the pleasant study
+of the minister, a pastor of the Methodist
+Episcopal Church, South. After a few
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_52' name='page_52'></a>52</span>
+minutes of easy conversation, the minister
+abruptly cut all Gordian knots and said:
+&ldquo;Mr.&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, are you a Christian?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, sir, not so you can notice it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why are you not?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why should I be?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It gives to every one who embraces true
+religion a better, broader, worthier view
+and conception of life.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Wherein, mister?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It puts purpose into his life and interprets
+the end to which he is tending.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver
+of our Rocky Mountain engineman
+all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments
+of Voltaire, Rousseau, Ingersoll, and
+others whose writings he knew perfectly.</p>
+<p>With Christian and cultivated patience
+the minister listened and then said with
+captivating and sympathetic tenderness:
+&ldquo;But, my dear sir, that is all speculation
+on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They
+know no better. The religion of Jesus is
+not speculation; it is practical knowledge.
+Would not you, sir, like to know personally
+as to its truth?&rdquo;</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_53' name='page_53'></a>53</span></div>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, but how can I?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>His foot had been taken in the snare of
+the wise trapper.</p>
+<p>Said the preacher: &ldquo;You can; and this
+is the way. As you leave this city for
+your return to the West, get a cheap New
+Testament; indeed, here is a copy; please
+accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels&ndash;&ndash;Matthew,
+Mark, Luke, and John. Read them; you
+will by yourself and by this means find
+the way to perfect knowledge.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest
+knowledge, did as directed and advised.</p>
+<p>Back to his cab and engine he went,
+under the deepest conviction. Yet he declared
+that he needed no extraneous assistance
+to be as good as any Christian;
+Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said
+so. The negative influences of the atheistic
+authors yet warped him. He said: &ldquo;I dare
+any of you to watch me. I can and will be
+as upright as any Christian on earth.&rdquo;
+But after a short time of exemplary conduct,
+he would wake up some morning only
+to discover to his hearty disgust that he
+had been on an extended period of dissipation.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_54' name='page_54'></a>54</span>
+Later he would attempt another
+straightening-up and try to &ldquo;be good&rdquo;
+without the necessary becoming so, only to
+fall again and harder than before.</p>
+<p>Once, after such humiliating debauch, he
+entered a saloon which contained the only
+barber shop in the village, the railway
+division point where he had his &ldquo;layovers&rdquo;
+for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after
+pay-day among the employees, and, as he
+stated it to the writer, &ldquo;everybody, even
+the barber, had been drunk.&rdquo; Cigar stumps,
+empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night&rsquo;s carousals covered
+the floor with bacchanalian litter.
+Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was
+taking place on the stage of his perturbed
+soul. His story is this:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;While lying there that morning a voice
+said to me, &lsquo;You are not a square-dealer.&rsquo;
+I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see
+a bloated face with impassive and mute
+lips; he had said nothing, I could easily see.
+I closed my eyes again, only to hear, &lsquo;You
+do not treat me as you would a gentleman.&rsquo;
+I now knew that the voice was that of an
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_55' name='page_55'></a>55</span>
+unseen person, and I replied mentally but
+really. &lsquo;Who are you, and what do you
+want?&rsquo; &lsquo;I am Jesus, whom you deny without
+having known, and condemn without
+having attempted to prove. You have
+been saying all the while you can succeed
+without my assistance, and you know you
+have failed every time. All I want is a
+chance in your life that I may prove myself
+to you.&rsquo; Then I replied, &lsquo;If this is what
+you want, just come in and we will talk it
+over.&rsquo; He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room
+and, locking the door, took out of a little
+old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother
+had given me; it had lain there for thirty
+long years untouched. I opened it and
+read a while and then got down on my
+knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: &lsquo;Lord, if it is really the Lord
+who was talking to me (I have my doubts),
+you know I am a man of my word, and you
+can trust me. I want to make you a
+proposition: I&rsquo;ll do the square thing by
+you if you&rsquo;ll do the same by me.
+Amen!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;was the beginning of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_56' name='page_56'></a>56</span>
+the struggle for rest to my soul; and I
+found it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>An incident leading to his immediate,
+possibly ultimate safety, was a conversation
+in a saloon. It does not always
+transpire that we are benefited by the act
+of the talebearer, but in this case it was
+highly salutary. One of his engineer friends,
+drinking at the bar, said: &ldquo;Never fear
+about H&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;. He will soon get over all
+this and be along with us as usual.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Hearing it, he became very righteously
+indignant and said: &ldquo;By the grace of God,
+never! I&rsquo;ll go up to the church my wife
+attends and join with her, and when they
+know I am a church member they&rsquo;ll let
+me alone.&rdquo; He did so at once. He was
+saved. He lived for many years, always
+happy, always helpful, and without fear
+he ascended the snowy hills of old age,
+with their enveloping mists.</p>
+<p>Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he
+lingered long, ever cheerful, and interested
+in his friends, to whom he sent many messages.
+To his brothers of the Odd Fellows
+he sent this message: &ldquo;Boys, I&rsquo;ll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_57' name='page_57'></a>57</span>
+Christmas Eve, who with stocking hung up,
+is anxious for daylight. The shadows have
+come over me. My stocking is hung up
+by the Father&rsquo;s fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven&rsquo;t the
+remotest idea what I will get, but I am
+sure it will be something good.&rdquo; A few
+days before his translation he was visited
+by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: &ldquo;H&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, you are now up
+against the real thing, according to your
+belief; and it looks to us the same, just as
+if you would have to go some one of these
+days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Looking at the questioner lovingly, the
+dying man said, &ldquo;Charley, you&rsquo;ve worked
+for the railway company a long time, and
+never had many promotions, have you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, about twenty years&ndash;&ndash;and no promotions.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Charley, suppose there&rsquo;d come to
+you to-day a wire from headquarters saying
+there&rsquo;s a big promotion waiting for you on
+your arrival, and at the same time a pass
+for your free transportation. How do
+you think that would seem to you?&rdquo;</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_58' name='page_58'></a>58</span></div>
+<p>&ldquo;My soul, but that&rsquo;d be fine,&rdquo; said he.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Charley, that&rsquo;s just my case exactly,&rdquo;
+said the radiant man. &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve been
+working for God and his company for about
+that same length of time and never had
+much promotion so far as I could see, and
+now I have a summons direct from the
+glory land telling me there&rsquo;s a big advancement
+for me, and it sounds mighty
+good.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He was dressed for the wedding, the
+Christmas morning, or whatever awaited
+him, and was anxious that the couriers of
+the King should come. When the moment
+came the old engineer&rsquo;s headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green,
+and when he called for the last board at
+the home station the signal came back:
+&ldquo;All&rsquo;s well; come on in.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He had received his coveted promotion.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_59' name='page_59'></a>59</span>
+<a name='AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS' id='AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS'></a>
+<h2>AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>That best portion of a good man&rsquo;s life&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+His little, nameless, unremembered acts<br />
+Of kindness and of love.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Wordsworth.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>The Methodist locomotive engineer had
+died joyful. &ldquo;I am so glad to go,&rdquo; he
+said. &ldquo;I am like a boy when there&rsquo;s a
+circus in town; I&rsquo;ve got the price, and my
+baggage is checked clear through.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I was holding a memorial service for him
+in his old home town, and at the close a
+big, broad-shouldered man came forward to
+the altar rail and quietly said, &ldquo;You did
+not know that man.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The remark startled me a little, for I
+had been acquainted with him for many
+years; in fact, had once been his pastor.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I thought I did,&rdquo; replied I.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, you never really knew him,&rdquo; was
+the insistent rejoinder; &ldquo;let me tell you
+something about him. Years ago I was
+not living as I ought, and I had all sorts of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_60' name='page_60'></a>60</span>
+trouble. My wife was very sick, and we
+were living in a bit of a shack back here a
+little way where she finally died. I was
+down and out. The fellows wanted to be
+good to me, and they were&ndash;&ndash;in their way
+of thinking&ndash;&ndash;but it did me no good. They
+would say, &lsquo;Come, brace up, old fellow,
+have a drink and forget your troubles.&rsquo;
+But there are some troubles drink will not
+drown; mine was one of them.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;One night our friend came up to my
+shack, and having visited a while he said:
+&lsquo;Old man, you&rsquo;re up against it hard, ain&rsquo;t
+you?&rsquo; I replied, &lsquo;Yes, I am, just up to the
+limit.&rsquo; &lsquo;Well, let&rsquo;s pray about it.&rsquo; I told
+him I didn&rsquo;t believe in prayer. &lsquo;All right,&rsquo;
+said he, &lsquo;I do, and I&rsquo;ll pray any way.&rsquo; You
+should have heard the prayer he made. It
+was about like this: &lsquo;God, here&rsquo;s my friend,
+Charley; he&rsquo;s in an awful fix. We&rsquo;ll have
+to do something for him. I&rsquo;ve done all I
+can; now, it&rsquo;s up to you to see him through.
+Amen.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then he arose from his knees and,
+handing me his check book, he said, &lsquo;My
+wife and I ain&rsquo;t got much, only a couple o&rsquo;
+thousand in the bank; but here&rsquo;s this
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_61' name='page_61'></a>61</span>
+check book all signed up; take it and use
+it all if you need it, and God bless you!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But,&rdquo; added the narrator of the story,
+&ldquo;I couldn&rsquo;t use money like that.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The tears were fast falling over his
+bronzed cheeks as he told with tenderness
+the story, and as I looked into his eyes I
+knew that through knowledge of the dead
+engineer&rsquo;s kingly kindness had come to him
+the knowledge of the new life.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_63' name='page_63'></a>63</span>
+<a name='INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL' id='INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>INDIANS OF THE TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_64' name='page_64'></a>64</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Man&rsquo;s inhumanity to man<br />
+Makes countless thousands mourn.<br />
+&ndash;&ndash;<i>Burns</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_2' id='linki_2'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/p0064a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='332' height='497' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_65' name='page_65'></a>65</span>
+<a name='INTRODUCTORY_WORDS' id='INTRODUCTORY_WORDS'></a>
+<h2>INTRODUCTORY WORDS</h2>
+</div>
+<p>Indian character is human character because
+the Indian is human. Being human
+he is susceptible to all human teaching and
+experiences. None yields more readily to
+love and kindness.</p>
+<p>Few can speak of the Indian with absolute
+propriety, for very few know him.
+To the mind of most Americans, I venture
+to say, the very name &ldquo;Indian&rdquo; suggests
+scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds
+and an interminable list of kindred horrors;
+all too true. But it must be remembered
+that the Indian presented to his first discoverers
+a race most tractable, tenderhearted,
+and responsive to kindness. He
+was indeed the child of the plain, but a
+loving child.</p>
+<p>The chevaliers both of Spanish and English
+blood taught him in the most practical
+manner the varied refinements of deceit,
+treachery, and cruelty. He was an apt
+scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_66' name='page_66'></a>66</span>
+which has here so striking an example,
+cannot curse the redman if the sins of the
+fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.</p>
+<p>Under definite heads I am giving some
+very brief sketches of living, down-to-date
+aborigines, such as have come under my
+own observation in Utah and Idaho.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_67' name='page_67'></a>67</span>
+<a name='POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF' id='POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF'></a>
+<h2>POCATELLO, THE CHIEF</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The nodding horror of whose shady brows<br />
+Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Milton</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced
+a large territory of which Pocatello
+was the center. These Idaho red people
+are the remnants of the once powerful
+tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones,
+which ranged from the Blue Mountains in
+Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes
+used by the aggressive white people have
+encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their
+borders so that now they are centered at
+Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a
+school for them, and the Protestant Episcopal
+Church a mission.</p>
+<p>Pocatello is named for a wily old chief
+of that name, who became an outlaw to
+be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade
+of his sanguinary followers against the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_68' name='page_68'></a>68</span>
+newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne,
+Utah; but a Mormon who had been notified
+of the proposed massacre, by a coreligionist,
+likewise told a friend among the Gentiles,
+and a precautionary counter plan was formulated.
+Nothing more came of it than
+an evening visit from Brigham Young and
+his staff, who, as reported, pronounced and
+prophesied an awful and exterminating
+curse upon the town and people. However,
+because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.</p>
+<p>Until recently there lived in the region
+of the city of Pocatello an old squaw-man
+(white man with an Indian wife). His
+home was within the borders of the reservation,
+and he had been there since before
+the time when the boundary line between
+the United States and England (Canada)
+was settled. The old man was called
+&ldquo;Doc,&rdquo; and once when visiting him I said,
+&ldquo;Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and
+what became of him.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The old man, half reclining on the pile
+of household debris in one corner of his
+shanty, permitted me to sit by the door&ndash;&ndash;for
+there were no chairs in the place. The
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_69' name='page_69'></a>69</span>
+four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for
+range work; in another the accumulation of
+rags and blankets on which he slept (for he
+lived alone now, the wife being dead); in
+another was his little stove, and the last
+held the door where I sat. The air was
+fresher there, I thought. The veteran of
+eighty or more years, bronzed by the
+winds and roughened by the sweeping
+sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: &ldquo;It war in the days o&rsquo; them freighters
+who operated &rsquo;tween Corinne an&rsquo; Virginny
+City when Alder Gulch was a-goin&rsquo; chock
+full o&rsquo; business. The Forwardin&rsquo; Company
+hed a mighty big lot o&rsquo; rollin&rsquo; stock an&rsquo;
+hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull
+kentry was Injun from put-ni&rsquo; Corinne to
+that there Montanny town. The Bear
+Rivers an&rsquo; the Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks
+an&rsquo; the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o&rsquo;-July picnic fer
+them fellers an&rsquo; their drivers. Right h&rsquo;yur
+was the natterelest campin&rsquo; place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer
+the stage-station, where they could git the
+stock fresh an&rsquo; new an&rsquo; go on, as they hed
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_70' name='page_70'></a>70</span>
+to do, night an&rsquo; day, so&rsquo;s to keep business
+a-movin&rsquo;, ye see. Fer &rsquo;twas a mighty long
+rout fer passengers.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Now, Pocatello an&rsquo; his bunch o&rsquo; red
+devils got into the habit o&rsquo; runnin&rsquo; off the
+stock, an&rsquo; sometimes the Company&rsquo;d haf to
+wait half a day to git enough teams to go
+on north; or to wait till the fagged ones&rsquo;d
+git a little rest an&rsquo; then push on wi&rsquo; the
+same ones. Mr. Salisbury, of Salt Lake,
+was the head o&rsquo; the Forwardin&rsquo; Company,
+an&rsquo; he an&rsquo; his people got mighty all-fired
+tired o&rsquo; that sort o&rsquo; business. Hosses was
+dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so
+he told a lot o&rsquo; us&rsquo;ns he&rsquo;d like tarnation
+well if this sort o&rsquo; thing&rsquo;d stop kind o&rsquo;
+sudden like; an&rsquo; we planned it might be
+done jist that way too.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We kind o&rsquo; laid low, an&rsquo; nothin&rsquo; happened
+fer quite a while; but one night a
+fine bunch o&rsquo; hosses was run off jist when
+they&rsquo;s a big lot o&rsquo; treasure goin&rsquo; over the
+line, an&rsquo; the management was sure mad.
+They told us &rsquo;uns agin somethin&rsquo; had to be
+done, an&rsquo; despert quick this time. So we
+got busy. We begun to round ol&rsquo; Pocatello
+up, an&rsquo; he seemed to smell a rat or somethin&rsquo;
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_71' name='page_71'></a>71</span>
+wuss, an&rsquo; started up Pocatello Crick
+yander, that there ca&ntilde;on, see? He went
+almighty fast too when he got started; so
+did we, now I tell you, an&rsquo; we jist kep&rsquo;
+a-foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, an&rsquo; foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, an&rsquo; foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, we did&ndash;&ndash;a
+hull lot ov us&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo;&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo;&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo; Pocatello
+never come back.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then the old squaw-man tapped the
+ashes from his pipe, and rising said, &ldquo;Well,
+I guess I&rsquo;ll cinch up the cayuse an&rsquo; ride
+some this a&rsquo;ternoon.&rdquo;</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_72' name='page_72'></a>72</span>
+<a name='THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER' id='THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER'></a>
+<h2>THE BABYLESS MOTHER</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Rachel weeping for her children, and would not
+be comforted, because they are not.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Saint Matthew</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>One of the many signs that the Indian is
+human is his slowness to learn. Ever since
+1492 the whiter man has been trying to force
+some supposedly useful things into the mind
+of him of the darker skin. One of these is
+that he of the blanket has no rights that he
+of the dress coat is bound to respect. The
+Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words,
+but the rifle and the scalping-knife. The
+whiter man demurs when he receives
+his justice dished up to him in redskin
+style.</p>
+<p>It is unreasonable to the Indian that the
+white man should take from him his hunting
+grounds and limit his access to the very
+streams whence his people for ages uncountable
+filled their pantries for the winter.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_73' name='page_73'></a>73</span>
+He has learned to his disgust (without
+place for repentance) that equivalents are
+equivocations, and that the little baubles
+the fathers of the tribes had for their
+broad acres were mostly worthless. The
+civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign
+manual known as signature had fastened on
+them the gyves of perpetual poverty.</p>
+<p>In addition to this, the nation demanded
+they should send their children to the
+white man&rsquo;s school in the far, far away
+Eastern land, where they could not see
+them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that
+dread disease, pulmonary tuberculosis. But
+they were only Indians, and what rights
+had they? When boys and girls were not
+promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not
+seem good to us to have big, brawny
+Indians on horseback give chase to our
+children, and catch and tie them like so
+many hogs, to be carted off to a land
+unknown to us; but then these are only
+Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.</p>
+<p>Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_74' name='page_74'></a>74</span>
+went on their usual trip to the edge of
+Yellowstone Park&ndash;&ndash;Jackson&rsquo;s Hole&ndash;&ndash;for the
+purpose of laying in their annual supply of
+elk and bear meat. The government had
+forbidden this, yet they went, with their
+indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses,
+of course) to dress and care for whatever
+of provision fell into their hands.</p>
+<p>When it was discovered that the Indians
+had gone in the face of the prohibitory
+order the soldiers were sent to drive them
+out. Such racing and chasing! &ldquo;Wild
+horse, wild Indian, wild horseman,&rdquo; as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man
+and woman for himself now. Papooses
+were slung on the saddle-horns of their
+mothers&rsquo; horses, a loop being fastened to
+the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of
+the hard flights through the thickly fallen
+and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral
+a mother, pressed too hard by the soldiers
+and cavalry, lost her baby.</p>
+<p>Her tribal friends ventured back after all
+was safe, and with an Indian&rsquo;s trail-finding
+tact hunted high and low, far and wide,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_75' name='page_75'></a>75</span>
+but no trace was ever found of the wee
+baby.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But, then, what mattered it? It was
+nothing but an Indian baby, and its mother
+only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a
+squaw any way?&rdquo;</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_76' name='page_76'></a>76</span>
+<a name='MARY_MUSKRAT' id='MARY_MUSKRAT'></a>
+<h2>MARY MUSKRAT</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and
+the greatest of these is love.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Saint Paul</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>When the &ldquo;teacher&rdquo; first went among
+the Indians at Fort Hall her reception
+was neither cordial nor cold, for she was
+not received at all. She had not been invited
+and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort
+she could often hear in the nighttime the
+movement of a moccasin, as some tired
+Indian spy changed his cramped position,
+for she was religiously watched and irreligiously
+suspected. They could not understand
+why she, an unmarried white woman,
+should leave her home and spend time
+among them.</p>
+<p>The braves strode by her in sullen silence,
+eloquently impressing their contumelious
+hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who
+observe everything and see nothing, disdainfully
+covered their faces with their
+blankets or looked in silence in the opposite
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_77' name='page_77'></a>77</span>
+direction when the teacher met them or
+lifted the tent-flap.</p>
+<p>After a long time she won her way with
+some of the wee ones, and thus touched
+the hearts of the mothers, through whom
+she made a road broad and wide into the
+affections of the tribe. They trusted her
+with the secrets of the people, and she was
+at home in every teepee in the reservation.
+Gathering the girls together, she taught
+them the beautiful words of the Bible, and
+for many years she lived, loved, and labored
+there.</p>
+<p>Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock
+girls in the mission school. The little
+shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of
+the desert had been toilsomely but surely
+trained by the teacher, that bravest of
+little women.</p>
+<p>Pulmonary consumption is the bane of
+the civilized Indians. It carries them off
+in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living,
+it seems that few, if any, ever recover from
+an attack. The dread disease had fastened
+itself upon Mary and she was sick unto
+death. Her little shack was no fit place
+for a living person, and here was one
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_78' name='page_78'></a>78</span>
+dying. Frequent visits from her teacher
+afforded the dying maiden her only relief.
+Once, after watching her through a severe
+paroxysm of coughing, it seemed that life
+had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a
+pillow, and lowering the head, the devoted
+teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless
+form. But she saw the lips moving, and,
+bending low, she heard the dying girl whisper,
+&ldquo;What time I am afraid I will trust in
+Thee.&rdquo; Continuing, she breathed out, &ldquo;The
+Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want....
+Yea, though I walk through the valley
+and the shadow of death, I will fear no evil.&rdquo;
+Pausing, while the heart of the white
+woman was praising God for his goodness
+to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful
+eyes, and, seeing her protectress and
+benefactress standing there, said, &ldquo;O, dear
+teacher, the Lord is my shepherd.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then the Shepherd came and took her
+to dwell in the house of the Lord forever.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_79' name='page_79'></a>79</span>
+<a name='BAD_BEN' id='BAD_BEN'></a>
+<h2>BAD BEN</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>A little child shall lead them.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Ben&rsquo;s daughter, Mary<a name='FNanchor_0001' id='FNanchor_0001'></a><a href='#Footnote_0001' class='fnanchor'>[1]</a>, was the delight
+of the old man&rsquo;s heart. She had been
+taken most unwillingly, so far as both
+were concerned, and placed in one of the
+Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben
+had objected strenuously, but the stronger
+arm prevailed.</p>
+<p>The teacher at the mission had never in
+all her many years in that place felt fear
+until after Mary was taken away. When
+the father would come to the school to
+ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;bad
+heart&rdquo; he called it. The little woman who
+had won the hearts of the people did not
+know what the enraged man might do or
+when he would do it. Once, after many
+such terrifying visits, he volunteered the
+information that he was making him a
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_80' name='page_80'></a>80</span>
+house and a farm &ldquo;all same witee man.&rdquo;
+He had built it of some railroad ties he had
+found and had begun to cultivate a garden
+and cut some wild hay. &ldquo;Me makee heap
+good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary
+he all same witee squaw, by &rsquo;um by.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The white plague is the only disease the
+Indian fears or calls sickness. Once, when
+Ben went to the school where a dozen or so
+other happy-faced little girls were being
+taught and prepared for the Eastern school,
+Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; was obliged to tell him Mary
+was sick. For a while his savagery was
+apparently renewed. He became wild again.
+His visits increased in frequency, and all
+the time the teacher was in mental torture,
+for he seemed to feel that the white woman
+was in some manner connected with his
+child&rsquo;s going away and her present condition.</p>
+<p>The dread day came when she must tell
+the loving father that there was now no
+hope for his &ldquo;lil&rsquo; gal,&rdquo; as he affectionately
+called her. Then another more dreaded day
+rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried
+in the far east. Poor old father! He could
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_81' name='page_81'></a>81</span>
+not even see her then. How could he be
+made to understand?</p>
+<p>The only solution of the problem was the
+holding of a memorial service for her. One
+of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold
+such a service at the Agency and Ben was
+present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, &ldquo;no have bad heart,&rdquo; he
+would see his Mary again. No one could
+tell to what extent this message found place
+in his mind until later. One day he was
+seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; met
+him at the door. On entering he said, &ldquo;O,
+Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, bad Injun no liky me have hay,
+no liky me have wikiup all same witee man.
+Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup, all
+me hay, all me everyt&rsquo;ing. But me no
+have bad heart [that means, &ldquo;I do not hate
+them&rdquo;], me no have bad heart, Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;;
+me no have bad heart; me want see my lil&rsquo;
+gal some day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So the lonesome man went away to his
+one-time home to try to live among the
+unchristian and unprogressive Indians without
+having any hatred toward them, for he
+wanted to meet his Mary.</p>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0001' id='Footnote_0001'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0001'><span class='label'>[1]</span></a>
+<p>Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_82' name='page_82'></a>82</span>
+<a name='A_THREECORNERED_SERMON' id='A_THREECORNERED_SERMON'></a>
+<h2>A THREE-CORNERED SERMON</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my
+mouth: it shall not return unto me void, but it
+shall accomplish that which I please, and it shall
+prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Thy word, Almighty Lord,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Where&rsquo;er it enters in<br />
+Is sharper than a two-edged sword<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>To slay the man of sin.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Montgomery</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever
+been in vogue among the aborigines of
+many lands. The interior tribes of Africa
+have it and use it to perfection. The
+plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which
+cause much wonderment to the white man.</p>
+<p>In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress
+among all the Indians of the United States.
+All Indiandom was excited to the highest
+degree. Disturbances among them were
+watched and feared by the government.
+The Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_83' name='page_83'></a>83</span>
+were nerved to a high tension and quickly
+athrill to any new movement. Hearing that
+an unusual interest was being displayed
+among the Nez Perces of the north, a
+committee of the Fort Hall men was sent
+to ascertain what it was. It proved to be
+a revival of religion conducted by the
+Presbyterians. The committee was composed
+of heathens, but they saw, were
+conquered, and came home reporting it
+was good, and requested that there be
+similar meetings held among them. It was
+so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant
+evangelist.</p>
+<p>The various Protestant churches in Pocatello
+had been by turns supplying preaching
+to the people of Fort Hall&rsquo;s tribes, and to
+the whites who were the residents at Ross
+Fork, the seat of the Agency. On the
+particular evening when the special meetings
+were to begin it was the turn of the
+writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays,
+a full-blood Nez Perce, was there as evangelist.
+But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized
+dialect. He had been educated in English
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_84' name='page_84'></a>84</span>
+and could understand me so as to interpret,
+rather translate into Nez Perce, but who
+could reach the people to whom we had
+the message? There was present a renegade
+fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or chief Pat),
+<i>not an Irishman</i>. He was a Shoshone who
+years before had gone to live among the
+Nez Perces and had married a woman of
+them. He could interpret Hays, but could
+he be trusted? He was a very heathenish
+heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss
+Frost, consulted with Mr. Hays and myself
+as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play
+interpreter for the momentous occasion;
+after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God&rsquo;s leading.
+Pat, the heathen, was chosen. It was a
+queer audience. There were some whites,
+some Indians. It was odd to see Gun, the
+Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the
+tribal judge; and Hubert Tetoby, the assistant
+blacksmith, as well as others of
+local importance. To add to the excitement
+of the evening, it was the night before
+ration day at the Agency, when all the
+Indians from the entire Reservation were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_85' name='page_85'></a>85</span>
+present&ndash;&ndash;fifteen hundred of them&ndash;&ndash;for their
+share. It was a wild time&ndash;&ndash;the raw
+blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The
+unprotected young woman had no security
+from him. Indeed, while we were gathering
+in the mission house for this service, I
+noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young
+widow, who had scuttled in silent as a
+partridge and was snuggling down on the
+floor just back of my feet, successful in
+getting away from some red Lothario who
+had pursued her to the door.</p>
+<p>The service began. I preached from the
+words of Martha to Mary, &ldquo;The Master is
+come and is calling for thee.&rdquo; It was an
+attempt to show that Jesus needs us as
+living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays,
+I suppose, and always have believed, translated
+to Pat in Nez Perce what I said.
+Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled
+band of mixed Indians. To be sure, I
+understood not a thing either said: but
+when I looked at the earnest, love-ridden,
+and sweat-covered face of the yearning Nez
+Perce, I believed that what he was saying
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_86' name='page_86'></a>86</span>
+was all I said and more. And Pat&ndash;&ndash;he was
+a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself
+at all. He is about six feet six in his moccasins,
+and those long arms accompanied
+the lengthy guttural expressions in an intensely
+effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was
+asked, &ldquo;How many of you from this time
+forward are willing to follow Jesus and be
+known as his assistants?&rdquo; Among the most
+prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy
+George, <i>and Pat Tyhee, the heathen interpreter</i>.
+Looking me straight in the eyes,
+swerving neither to the one side nor the
+other, these madly-in-earnest men of the
+mountains held their hands up high as
+they could reach them. And in six weeks
+from that date there was a Presbyterian
+church there composed of sixty-five members,
+of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was
+made one of the elders. There had been
+no Christians there at all before those
+meetings. It was an Indian Pentecost.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_87' name='page_87'></a>87</span>
+<a name='THREE_YEARS_AFTER' id='THREE_YEARS_AFTER'></a>
+<h2>THREE YEARS AFTER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Father of all! in every age,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In every clime adored,<br />
+By saint, by savage, and by sage,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Alexander Pope</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Some hypercritical person, and possibly
+some sincere soul, may ask: &ldquo;Did such
+revival do any permanent good? Does not
+the so-near savage easily backslide?&rdquo; To
+this may be given this partial reply: It
+depends somewhat on the sort of white
+folks there are in the immediate vicinity.
+As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale
+face has been the great undoer of the
+red man. &ldquo;Civilization&rdquo; in some garbs is
+worse than savagery. The white skin has
+been the password for some awful systems
+of debauchery among the aborigines of
+America. An Indian speaker, and chief of
+police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World&rsquo;s Christian
+Citizenship Conference in Portland,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_88' name='page_88'></a>88</span>
+1913: &ldquo;Before the white man came the
+Indian had no jails or locks on their doors.
+The white man brought whisky; there is
+now need of both jails and locks.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>About three years after the meeting at
+Fort Hall, where the three-cornered sermon
+was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit
+to the West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent
+of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told the
+fourteen hundred red natives that if they
+would turn out in their handsomest manner,
+he would give them all a &ldquo;big eat&rdquo;
+after the visit. Promptly on the day designated
+the famous rough rider and the
+desert riders were in evidence, the latter
+in abundance. They went far out along
+the railway to meet the train, and then
+galloped their wiry, pintoed ponies along
+by the side of the car, performing many
+feats of daring horsemanship, throwing
+themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other
+stunts which they invented. After the
+&ldquo;pageant had fled&rdquo; the expectant and
+hungry Indians were herded into a large
+vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_89' name='page_89'></a>89</span>
+I was anxious to see them, and so were
+many other equally bold and possibly a
+wee bit impolite people, for when they
+had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.</p>
+<p>The Young Men&rsquo;s Christian Association
+secretary and I overlooked the scene from
+a hotel whose wall formed one side of the
+enclosure where the long tables of loose
+planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle,
+and confusion, not much unlike what everyone
+has witnessed at the ordinary picnic.</p>
+<p>The Christians and the non-Christians
+had divided as though not of the same
+tribe or blood. These had their tables on
+one side, those on the opposite. When all
+was ready the savage part of the divided
+company fell to with vim, vigor, and haste,
+just as white people often do at outdoor
+dinners; but see the others! After all had
+been carefully spread, odorous cans of
+tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A
+low word of attention was given by some
+one; every head was bowed, quiet was
+absolute, and Billy George in guttural tones
+said something the Lord of all could understand.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_90' name='page_90'></a>90</span>
+When he was through these also
+fell to with an unmistakable zest and the
+day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.</p>
+<p>This Billy George was crippled by the
+bullets of some of the reservation Indians
+who did not like his progressive ways. He
+had lost one leg for this reason. One night,
+as he was fastening up his animals, he
+stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral.
+Just as he raised himself, a shot that was
+doubtless meant for his lowered head struck
+his leg and it had to be amputated.</p>
+<p>On the night of his conversion, when he
+had raised his hand high as he could reach,
+he in the after meeting mimicked the white
+folks who had slowly and with many side-lookings
+so slightly moved their hands upward.
+He said, &ldquo;Huh, white folks heap
+scared, do this way;&rdquo; and he imitated them
+grotesquely.</p>
+<p>Often when leaving his teepee for the hills
+in order to haul his winter wood, he would
+go to the home of Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away,
+and at the same time asking her to be sure
+to care for his squaw and papooses if he
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_91' name='page_91'></a>91</span>
+did not return; for, said he, &ldquo;Bad Injun
+ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy
+me liky whity man.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So fair of mind was he, and so humanely
+progressive, that the government had chosen
+him as one of the men before whom petty
+cases among the tribe were taken. If he
+could not solve the problems, they were
+then carried to the Agent; then on up if
+not there adjusted.</p>
+<p>When the Presbyterian Missionary Board
+assisted these Christians to build a neat
+house of worship it was, and still is, known
+far and near as Billy George&rsquo;s Church.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_92' name='page_92'></a>92</span>
+<a name='CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA' id='CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA'></a>
+<h2>CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Land where my fathers died.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Smith</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>A Cornishman was once asked why there
+were no public houses (saloons) in his town.
+He replied, &ldquo;Once a man by the name of
+John Wesley preached here, and there have
+been none since.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Once a man by the name of General
+O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country
+has not been the same since. The occasion
+was the uprising of the Nez Perces
+Indians in 1877. Ridpath, the historian,
+tells of the long chase of the red men and
+the weary pursuit of &ldquo;sixteen hundred
+miles.&rdquo; It was truly a Fabian retreat on
+the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but
+General Howard was dealing mercifully with
+them; at a dozen places he could have given
+battle, but he spared the useless slaughter,
+avoiding the needless scaring of the white
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_93' name='page_93'></a>93</span>
+settlers and the complement of dire scenes
+and death that would necessarily follow.</p>
+<p>The story of Chief Joseph is one of the
+most interesting unwritten chapters in the
+history of the great Northwest. The fact
+of the capture of this wily Indian leader
+with most of his band is well known. They
+were banished from the Alpine regions of
+eastern Oregon and compelled to make
+their home across the marble ca&ntilde;on of the
+Snake in the State of Idaho, far from their
+loved Wallowa.</p>
+<p>The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name)
+is one of the most beautiful spots imaginable.
+At its southern end stand pillared
+peaks, eternally snow-crowned, rivaling the
+finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the
+busy town of Joseph, so named in honor of
+the great chieftain. This emerald valley
+nestles in the lap of the Blue Mountains,
+and was from time immemorial the favorite
+home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville
+passed through that remote region in
+the early thirties they were in the enjoyment
+of that valley and the rugged recesses
+of the Imnaha between Oregon and Walla
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_94' name='page_94'></a>94</span>
+Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and
+others possibly peculiar to the place were
+found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and
+the hovering hills furnished flesh of deer
+and bear.</p>
+<p>At a point in the valley twenty miles
+north of the lake, Old Joseph, father of the
+more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered
+grave is to be seen by the roadside
+to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the
+heart of the younger man.</p>
+<p>Not long before his death, accompanied
+by guards, Chief Joseph was taken into the
+valley on some sort of errand, and was
+thus permitted to see again the enchanting
+beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the
+great opaline pool which reflected the
+sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he
+looked upon the surrounding glen, the ancient
+game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their
+timber-covered sides up to the very sky!
+His bursting heart cried out, &ldquo;I have but
+one thing to ask for from the White Father:
+Give me this lake and the land around it,
+and some few acres surrounding the grave
+of my father.&rdquo;</p>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_3' id='linki_3'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/p0094a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='517' height='352' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+WALLOWA LAKE<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_95' name='page_95'></a>95</span></div>
+<p>The white man&rsquo;s ax had cleared the
+timber about the old man&rsquo;s grave; the
+white man&rsquo;s plow might menace the sacred
+sod above the mute dust of his honored
+sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed
+by love&ndash;&ndash;his own father&rsquo;s grave. But
+his plea was denied. He was not permitted
+to have what in all reason seemed his very
+own.</p>
+<p>He was now an old man, with eyes that
+had never shed tears, a soul that was unacquainted
+with fear, and a heart that had
+never weakened in the presence of danger.
+But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his
+soul sank, his heart broke.</p>
+<p>Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many
+years since, wailing out the one great desire
+of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood
+and the graves of his sires.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_96' name='page_96'></a>96</span>
+<a name='THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK' id='THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK'></a>
+<h2>THE WHITE MAN&rsquo;S BOOK</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The book&ndash;&ndash;this holy book, on every line<br />
+Mark&rsquo;d with the seal of high divinity,<br />
+On every leaf bedew&rsquo;d with drops of love<br />
+Divine, and with the eternal heraldry<br />
+And signature of God Almighty stampt<br />
+From first to last&ndash;&ndash;this ray of sacred light,<br />
+This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,<br />
+Mercy took down, and, in the night of time<br />
+Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;<br />
+And evermore beseeching men, with tears<br />
+And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;<br />
+And many to her voice gave ear, and read,<br />
+Believed, obey&rsquo;d.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pollok.</i></p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Having heard the early explorers speak
+of God, the Bible, and religion, and knowing
+that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to
+know more about these things, and two
+chiefs, Hee-oh&rsquo;ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H&rsquo;co-a-h&rsquo;co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head)
+set out to find the
+white missionaries who could inform their
+troubled minds. They did not reach Saint
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_97' name='page_97'></a>97</span>
+Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers
+were of the Nez Perce tribe. General
+Clark took them to the cathedral and
+showed them the pictures of the saints and
+entertained them in the best and most approved
+Christian style; but they were heart-hungry
+and went home dissatisfied. One of
+them made the following speech to the
+kindly soldier, General Clark:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I came to you over a trail of many
+moons from the setting sun. You were the
+friend of my fathers who have all gone the
+long way. I came with one eye partly
+opened, for more light for my people who
+sit in darkness. I go back with both eyes
+closed. How can I go back with both eyes
+closed? How can I go back blind to my
+blind people? I made my way to you with
+strong arms, through many enemies and
+strange lands, that I might carry much
+back to them. I go back with both arms
+broken and empty. The two fathers who
+came with us&ndash;&ndash;the braves of many winters
+and wars&ndash;&ndash;we leave asleep by your great
+water and wigwam.<a name='FNanchor_0002' id='FNanchor_0002'></a><a href='#Footnote_0002' class='fnanchor'>[2]</a> They were tired in
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_98' name='page_98'></a>98</span>
+many moons, and their moccasins wore out.
+My people sent me to get the white man&rsquo;s
+Book of heaven. You took me where you
+allow your women to dance, as we do not
+ours, and the Book was not there; you
+showed me the images of the good spirits
+and the pictures of the good land beyond,
+but the Book was not among them to tell
+us the way. I am going back the long, sad
+trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of
+gifts, and my moccasins will grow old in
+carrying them, but the Book is not among
+them. When I tell my poor, blind people,
+after one more snow, in the big council,
+that I did not bring the Book, no word
+will be spoken by our old men or our young
+braves. One by one they will rise up and
+go out in silence. My people will die in
+darkness, and they will go on the long
+path to the other hunting grounds. No
+white man will go with them and no white
+man&rsquo;s Book will make the way plain. I
+have no more words.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>It was the rumor of this address that
+started Jason Lee and Marcus Whitman
+westward over the old Trail.</p>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0002' id='Footnote_0002'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0002'><span class='label'>[2]</span></a>
+<p>Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_99' name='page_99'></a>99</span>
+<a name='LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS' id='LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS'></a>
+<h2>LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_100' name='page_100'></a>100</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>I love thy rocks and rills,<br />
+Thy woods and templed hills,<br />
+My heart with rapture thrills.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Smith</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_101' name='page_101'></a>101</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS</p>
+<p>The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way
+through some of the very finest scenery of
+the West. These new ships of the desert,
+the passenger trains, glide gracefully down
+from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases.
+Whichever way the traveler turns he sees
+something absolutely new, and often in
+strange contrast with what he has just
+been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned
+giants of the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to
+timber line, stand motherlike, or bishoplike,
+crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant
+uplands and the velvety valleys whose
+billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of
+the prospering farmer. Now he beholds
+the ruggedest of capacious ca&ntilde;ons where
+the rollicking rivers and rhythmic rills have
+cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn
+and he sees the hearty herds transforming
+themselves automatically into gold for their
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_102' name='page_102'></a>102</span>
+happy owners; another turn shows the lazy
+rivers arising from their age-long beds and
+mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and
+to toil and sweat at the command of the
+lord of this world, as they irrigate his arid
+acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful
+river is carrying on its breast the tens of
+thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like
+straws on its frothy surface on their way
+to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed,
+serve the needs of man like trusted
+domestic servants.</p>
+<p>But this is not the way to view mountains;
+it is only surface sights we get in this
+manner. He who would know the beauties
+of the hills must become acquainted with
+them personally <i>and on foot</i>. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts
+of an upholstered, porter-served car. He
+may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he
+cares to visit only where such sure-footed
+animals can go. However, when I want to
+see the stately things among the unchiseled
+palaces and temples where Nature pays
+homage in the courts of the Divine Architect,
+I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_103' name='page_103'></a>103</span>
+with well-nailed shoes, rough clothes, a
+staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained;
+for though coy and apparently hard
+to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion
+when once you are acquainted.</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The distant mountains, that uprear<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Their solid bastions to the skies,<br />
+Are crossed by pathways, that appear<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>As we to higher levels rise.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said
+that every peak tempted him as with a
+beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.</p>
+<p>To those who have never been nearer the
+unlocked fastnesses of our eternal American
+hills than by the too common means above
+mentioned, the far-away cliffs of marble or
+white granite, with their areas of unmeltable
+snows and ices, look temptingly down
+on us in August, together with the smaller
+and less inspiring crags. But when we approach
+them, even those nearest, how they
+appear to recede&ndash;&ndash;almost to run away!
+The high peaks that looked as though
+climbing up and peeping over the heads of
+the lower ones, either jump down and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_104' name='page_104'></a>104</span>
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones
+rise up to protect them. So it seems as one
+approaches.</p>
+<p>Entering the mountain side by way of a
+yawning ca&ntilde;on we soon come to a sheer
+precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular
+sides, while, leaping from the
+top of the declivity high above our heads, as
+if from the very zenith, a stream of crystal
+water cleaves the air. It is dashed into
+countless strands of silvery pearls before
+it reaches the deep bed of moss spread
+down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward
+the moon-whipped ocean.</p>
+<p>Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us
+how to climb some mountains, but here we
+have to construct our ladders, for anyone
+less sure of foot than the chamois or the
+mountain sheep must stay at the bottom
+of the falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary
+now, and the gaping chasm has
+swallowed us upward, where we reach an
+opening into a wide park, a veritable fairyland.
+On the top of one of those ponderous
+laminations tilted edgewise is the king of
+the gnomes of the new glen. We call him
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_105' name='page_105'></a>105</span>
+Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over
+his wide domain! His kingly cap is adorned
+with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his
+ample breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic
+beard. This is one of the ways
+the quondam haughty hills have of providing
+entertainment for the bold questioner
+and visitor.</p>
+<p>The scenery is always new. High rocks,
+whose rugged faces look as if their titanic
+architect had been surprised and driven
+away while as yet his task was not half
+completed; long gaping gulches lined with
+an evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar,
+manzanita, and mountain mahogany, are
+some of the sidelights to be found in a
+day&rsquo;s journey in the realms adjacent to
+the Old Oregon Trail.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_107' name='page_107'></a>107</span>
+<a name='THE_STAGECOACH' id='THE_STAGECOACH'></a>
+<h2>THE STAGECOACH</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_108' name='page_108'></a>108</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'><span class='indent6'>&nbsp;</span>My high-blown pride<br />
+At length broke under me and now has left me,<br />
+Weary and old with service, to the mercy<br />
+Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When
+I was at home I was in a better place; but travelers
+must be content.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_109' name='page_109'></a>109</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE STAGECOACH</p>
+<p>At frequent intervals throughout the
+widening West may be seen the relegated
+ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless,
+forsaken. The merciless claws of
+summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white
+canvas cover and side curtains are flapping
+in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb
+with age and years of use, still tells tales
+of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.</p>
+<p>This class of carryall was at once unique
+and supreme. It was the one indispensable
+link in the endless chain of evolution popular
+and powerful, the only public agent of the
+Trail and the plains until the unconquerable
+initiative of the lord of the world had
+time to steel a highway with trackage for
+more rapid transit. What a living link was
+that old overland stage! To look upon an
+isolated and abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom
+is like standing at the marble monument
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_110' name='page_110'></a>110</span>
+of some human pivot in the mighty
+march of man&rsquo;s progress. Before the bold
+and bustling railway noisily elbowed its
+way into the affections of travel and commerce
+and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands
+of hurried travelers enjoyed (or endured)
+the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces
+as they, hour by hour, day after
+day, and night after night, and even week
+after week in the longer journeys, sat atop
+or inside this leviathan of the sand-ocean
+making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.</p>
+<p>Could such old hulk tell its story, could
+that dried-up old tongue but begin to wag
+again, what tales! First would come those
+of the men too often overworked and underappreciated,
+like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient
+Jehu, were compelled to drive furiously on
+occasion, in order to keep a cramped
+schedule or make up for the loss of time
+brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers
+there were who did not love their work. It
+came to be a saying, &ldquo;Once a driver, always
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_111' name='page_111'></a>111</span>
+a driver.&rdquo; The coach-and-four, or more,
+with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy
+envious and created in him a desire to become
+great some day too. Eagle and Dick,
+Tom and Rock, Bolly and Bill understood
+the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the
+line or the word of the chief charioteer,
+who, with foot on the long brake-beam,
+regulated the speed of the often crowded
+vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But
+Jehu is no longer universal king. A Pharaoh
+who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.</p>
+<p>In the boot of this old seaworthy craft
+was hauled many a load of treasure, for the
+gold-hungry prospector without sextant and
+chain surveyed the fastnesses of the hills
+as well as the illimitation of the prairies,
+and a care-taking government made a way
+to his camp to send him his mail. Express
+companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel
+became the lodestone to popular convenience.
+With many a load of treasure went
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_112' name='page_112'></a>112</span>
+a man known as a messenger, who sat beside
+the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or
+holdup, who so often robbed both stage and
+passenger.</p>
+<p>In the hold of this old coach have ridden
+governors, statesmen of all grades, men and
+women, good and better (some bad and
+worse); here were bridal tours, funeral parties,
+commercial men and gamblers, miners
+and prospectors, Chinamen and Indians,
+pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters, officers
+and convicts.</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Men of every station<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In the eye of fame,<br />
+On a common level<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Coming to the same&ndash;&ndash;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but
+more of a leveler was this old coach, for
+there was of necessity the forceful putting
+of people of the most heterogeneous character
+together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word
+here), made up its hashy load at the hand
+and command of the driver, whose word
+was unappealable law as complete as that
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_113' name='page_113'></a>113</span>
+of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene,
+millionaire or Lazarus, all were
+crowded together as the needs of the hour
+and the size of the passengers demanded,
+to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey&rsquo;s end.</p>
+<p>Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged
+till the stage station was reached; here the
+horses were exchanged for fresher ones;
+the wayside inn had its tables of provisions
+varying and varied as the region traversed.
+If in the mountains, there were likely to
+be trout, saddle of deer, steaks of bear;
+but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually
+these crowds were joking and jolly, unless
+tempered by something requiring more sobriety,
+but always optimistic, for the fellow
+who became grouchy the while had generally
+abundant occasion to repent and
+mend his ways.</p>
+<p>One day, on a road not far from where
+this is being written, the old coach was
+toiling up a long mountainside; the driver
+was drowsy and the passengers had exhausted
+their newest r&eacute;pertoire of stories
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_114' name='page_114'></a>114</span>
+and had lapsed into stillness such as often
+seizes a squeezed crowd. The horses were
+permitted to take their time; the dust was
+deep, the sun hot, and all possible stillness
+prevailed.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Halt!&rdquo; ordered a low voice very near
+the road.</p>
+<p>The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand
+the command, and simply looked up,
+half asleep, and said to the horses, &ldquo;Gid-dap!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Halt!&rdquo; came the words again, louder and
+unmistakable.</p>
+<p>Myers halted. Standing at the end of
+an elongated bunch of pines where he had
+been invisible until the heads of the horses
+appeared stood the highwayman, with
+menacing gun covering the head of the
+driver.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Throw out your treasure and mail!&rdquo;
+came the command.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I have mail, but no treasure,&rdquo; said my
+friend Tom, as he afterward pointed out
+the spot and told the story. &ldquo;Come and
+get it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned
+the pockets of the travelers inside out, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_115' name='page_115'></a>115</span>
+bade them drive on without imitating Lot&rsquo;s
+wife; he was never caught.</p>
+<p>To be sure, this is a tame story, and
+many readers doubtless can tell one more
+thrilling; but this one is true.</p>
+<p>The stagecoach is a thing of the past,
+but we still have the hardy, dust-covered,
+mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul
+the freight far back into hills where for
+ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by
+the Trails; they eat at the wheel; they
+sleep under the wagon; they are kindly
+and obliging even when their heavily belled
+teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some
+narrow pass where the highest engineering
+ability is needed to get by in safety; and
+they never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_117' name='page_117'></a>117</span>
+<a name='AMONG_THE_HILLS' id='AMONG_THE_HILLS'></a>
+<h2>AMONG THE HILLS</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_118' name='page_118'></a>118</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>To him who in the love of Nature, holds<br />
+Communion with her visible forms, she speaks<br />
+A various language;...<br />
+<span class='indent25'>&nbsp;</span>The hills<br />
+Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bryant</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Not vainly did the early Persian make<br />
+His altar the high places and the peak<br />
+Of earth-o&rsquo;ergazing mountains, and thus take<br />
+A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek<br />
+The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,<br />
+Upreared of human hands.... compare<br />
+Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek<br />
+With Nature&rsquo;s realm of worship.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Byron</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_119' name='page_119'></a>119</span>
+<a name='THE_MOTHER_DEER' id='THE_MOTHER_DEER'></a>
+<h2>THE MOTHER DEER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The ragged sky-line high in air<br />
+Sits boundary to sight<br />
+And seems to end the world;<br />
+But topping it by way well worn by braver<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>pioneer,<br />
+A fertile, home-filled dale is found<br />
+Where love holds warm,<br />
+And schools and churches dot the land.<br />
+But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach<br />
+With load of dust-clad travelers<br />
+Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,<br />
+The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,<br />
+Winding in and out among the stately<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>pines<br />
+(Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>moss<br />
+O&rsquo;er bleaching arms long since deprived of<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>life),<br />
+May now be seen a mother deer<br />
+Half hidden &rsquo;mong the sloping boughs;<br />
+Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense<br />
+And motionless. In silence all
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_120' name='page_120'></a>120</span><br />
+The passengers admire the instinct-love<br />
+Which not affrights the spotted babe<br />
+Fast sleeping at her feet.<br />
+&ldquo;There are no guns aboard!&rdquo; says one.<br />
+&ldquo;But if there were, how could one&rsquo;s heart<br />
+Be hard enough to murder mother-love?&rdquo;<br />
+Said I.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_121' name='page_121'></a>121</span>
+<a name='THE_SHEPHERD' id='THE_SHEPHERD'></a>
+<h2>THE SHEPHERD</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The tired shepherd stands among his ewes<br />
+That with their lambs are unafraid<br />
+Of him and keen-eyed dogs;<br />
+They crouch close in about his feet<br />
+Whene&rsquo;er the coyote&rsquo;s cry<br />
+Or bear&rsquo;s low growl<br />
+Falls tingling on the timid ear.<br />
+Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place<br />
+And peers amid the dust-dressed sage<br />
+And scented chaparral so dense,<br />
+To glimpse the fiery eyeballs<br />
+Of the prowler of the hills;<br />
+While all awatch the faithful collies stand<br />
+Prepared to fend e&rsquo;en with their lives<br />
+The young and helpless not their own.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_122' name='page_122'></a>122</span>
+<a name='THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER' id='THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER'></a>
+<h2>THE FEATHERED DRUMMER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The wooded thicket holds a drum.<br />
+The air in springtime afternoons<br />
+Is filled with sharp staccato notes<br />
+Whose echoes clear reverberate<br />
+From precipice and timbered hills.<br />
+No fifer plays accompaniment;<br />
+No pageant proud or marching throng<br />
+Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass<br />
+Whose sullen solo booms afar.<br />
+<br />
+A double challenge is this gage,<br />
+A gauntlet flung for love or war;<br />
+As strutting barnyard chanticleer<br />
+Defies his neighboring lord:<br />
+So calls this crested pheasant-king<br />
+For combat or for peace.<br />
+The meek brown mate upon her nest<br />
+Feels happy and secure<br />
+While thus her lord by deed and word<br />
+Displays his woodland bravery<br />
+And guards their little home.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_123' name='page_123'></a>123</span>
+<a name='MORMONDOM' id='MORMONDOM'></a>
+<h2>MORMONDOM</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_124' name='page_124'></a>124</span></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and
+that is the wrong one.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Samuel Johnson</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Utah is harder than China.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bishop Wiley</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist
+plowshare was ever set.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bishop Fowler</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_125' name='page_125'></a>125</span>
+<a name='THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON' id='THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON'></a>
+<h2>THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON</h2>
+</div>
+<p>By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in
+1834, to plant the sturdy oak of Methodism
+in the Willamette Valley and the north
+Pacific Coast. His task was nobly done;
+the developments of to-day attest the wisdom
+of the church in sending him and his
+coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee, Cyrus
+Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.</p>
+<p>Over this same track went Marcus Whitman,
+in 1835, to found the mission at
+Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla
+Walla, and to find there the early grave of
+honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The
+call to these two intrepid equals, Lee and
+Whitman, came through the visit of the
+two young Indian chiefs who, immediately
+after the expedition of Lewis and Clark,
+had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy
+of the &ldquo;white man&rsquo;s Book of heaven.&rdquo; The
+names of these two, as previously stated,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_126' name='page_126'></a>126</span>
+were Hee-oh&rsquo;ks-te-kin and H&rsquo;co-a-h&rsquo;co-a-cotes-min.</p>
+<p>On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland,
+Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr., had organized
+the body best known as the Mormon
+Church. Fourteen years later he was
+mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo,
+Illinois, and after three more years of
+drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to
+upper California under the absolute domination
+and guidance of Brigham Young,
+who was often styled the successor to the
+&ldquo;Mohammed of the West,&rdquo; as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some
+queer traits. W. W. Phelps, one of their
+more prominent members, thus characterized
+the leaders of Mormondom: Brigham
+Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt,
+the Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive
+Branch of Israel; W. Richards, the Keeper
+of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right;
+W. Smith, the Patriarchal Jacob&rsquo;s Staff; W.
+Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G. A.
+Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt,
+the Gauge of Philosophy; J. E. Page, the
+Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_127' name='page_127'></a>127</span></div>
+<p>Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri,
+the trembling Saints sought less
+turbulent surroundings by immersing their
+all in the wild conditions both of men and
+wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain
+the physical cost of the trek of more
+than a thousand miles under the hardest
+of circumstances. The Trail was the home
+of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes,
+the Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who
+knew neither law nor mercy. The waters
+were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe.
+A thousand miles afoot was the record
+some had to make. They appealed to the
+government, then at war with Mexico, to
+permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient
+Santa Fe Trail, and thus be able to draw
+wages on the journey. This was granted.
+These recruits had little, if anything, to do,
+but they are known in history as the Mormon
+battalion. They went to California,
+1847-49, and were present when James
+Marshall discovered gold at Sutter&rsquo;s Mill.</p>
+<p>In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up
+its first trenches in the valley of the Great
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_128' name='page_128'></a>128</span>
+Salt Lake, as that saline body was then
+known and recorded. In this salubrious
+region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of
+Brigham became the center of the sensual
+system of the Latter-Day Saints. So
+blatant was the apostle Heber Kimball that
+he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.</p>
+<p>Evangelical Christianity waited almost
+twenty years before an attempt was made
+to plant the high standards of Christendom
+in the Wahsatch Mountains. In the sixties
+went the denominations in the order
+here named: Congregational, Protestant
+Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in 1871
+the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists.
+It was dark. Mighty night had beclouded
+the intellect and obscured the
+spiritual senses; civilized sensuality swayed
+with unchecked hand the destinies of the
+masses. The blinded people groped for
+light in the pitchlike blackness of the new
+superstition.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;None but Americans on guard&rdquo; in such
+a night! Hear the roll call. None but
+tried and true Christian soldiers were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_129' name='page_129'></a>129</span>
+mounted on those ramparts: Erastus Smith,
+the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army
+man, who always kept his patriotic fires
+banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran
+of the Civil War, tireless evangelist
+who possibly saw more Mormons made
+Christian than any other pastor of any
+church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient,
+sunny; Martinus Nelson, weeping over
+the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E.
+M&ouml;rk, rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson
+and Samuel Hooper, both of whom died
+by the Trail, falling at the &ldquo;post of honor.&rdquo;
+Last, but not least of these to be named,
+stands the energetic and &ldquo;Boanergetic&rdquo;
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor
+and patriot, who with heart-thrilling tones
+has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of
+churches in these United States. For
+thirty years he commanded the Methodist
+as well as the patriotic redoubts of Utah
+and bearded the &ldquo;Lion of the Lord&rdquo; in his
+very den.</p>
+<p>But there were never truer watchmen on
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_130' name='page_130'></a>130</span>
+the high-towered battlements of the real
+Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop,
+Daniel S. Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of
+the Congregationalists; the truly apostolic
+Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders&ndash;&ndash;who
+surpasses them? See the saintly
+Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain;
+the scholarly and tireless Paden!</p>
+<p>They were loyal to the core, commanding
+the Christian forces as they deployed, enfiladed,
+charged, marched, and stormed the
+trenches of religious libertinism in the fertile
+and paradisaical valleys and roomy ca&ntilde;ons
+of the Mormon state of Deseret. These
+never surrendered, compromised, or retreated.</p>
+<p>Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the
+honor of saluting you. Your like may
+never march abreast again in any campaign!
+Living, you were conquerors; dying,
+you are heroes.</p>
+<p>Of these above named Messrs. Hooper,
+Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece have
+entered the &ldquo;snow-white tents&rdquo; of the
+other shore.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_131' name='page_131'></a>131</span>
+<a name='SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS' id='SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS'></a>
+<h2>SOME MORMON BELIEFS</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>His studie was but litel on the Bible.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Chaucer</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Imaginations fearfully absurd,<br />
+Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,<br />
+Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,<br />
+More bodiless and hideously misshapen<br />
+Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,<br />
+Playing at will, framed in the madman&rsquo;s brain.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pollok, in Course of Time</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>The abode of the dead, where they remained
+in full consciousness of their condition
+for indefinable periods, or even for
+eternity, has been the theme of many a
+writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant
+to the common intelligence. Homer
+sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of
+the dead, where he converses with them he
+had known in life. The Stygian River, the
+dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare,
+are all well known in the classics of the
+ancients.</p>
+<p>In some later religio-philosophic studies
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_132' name='page_132'></a>132</span>
+the names are different; some have tartarus,
+some purgatory, some paradise. The last
+is the name adopted by the Mormons.</p>
+<p>The heroes of Homer seemed never to
+hope for a release from the bonds of Hades.
+Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker,
+told the hero of those tales he was
+a daring one:</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>&ldquo;... who, yet alive, have gone<br />
+Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die<br />
+Is yours, while others die but once.&rdquo;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Many well meaning minds have tried to
+discover in the Bible, or otherwise reasonably
+invent a second probation for the
+unrepentant as an addendum to the final
+resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term &ldquo;spirits in prison&rdquo;
+(1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of &ldquo;baptism for the
+dead&rdquo; (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of
+zeal, or as a proselyting advertisement, the
+Latter-Day Saints proclaim the possibility
+of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise)
+being saved in heaven. To this end,
+early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching
+to the departed and that of proxy
+ministrations.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_133' name='page_133'></a>133</span></div>
+<p>From their Articles of Faith I take these
+two:</p>
+<blockquote>
+<p>3. We believe that through the atonement of
+Christ all mankind may be saved by obedience to
+the laws and ordinances of the gospel.</p>
+<p>4. We believe that these ordinances are: First,
+Faith in the Lord Jesus Christ; second, Repentance;
+third, Baptism by immersion for the remission of
+sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of the
+Holy Ghost.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Now, since without immersion there is
+no remission of sins, and since they who
+are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation,
+therefore some one must be baptized
+for them and have all the other rites
+of the plan likewise administered in their
+name. That &ldquo;all things may be done decently
+and in order,&rdquo; there was received a
+&ldquo;revelation&rdquo; to the end that temples must
+be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary
+for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the
+church who dies goes to the spiritual
+prison house and tells the people therein
+confined that these most meritorious works
+have been done for them on earth; in fact,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_134' name='page_134'></a>134</span>
+this is the chief reason for their going
+thither. They who will believe this story
+and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to &ldquo;a right to the tree of life, and
+may enter in through the gates into the
+city.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Not only are the people redeemed from
+all their sins by the pious ministrations of
+the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein,
+but as marriage relations are to continue
+throughout the endless ages of eternity, and
+children are to be born forever and ever,
+these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed &ldquo;for eternity&rdquo;; this act is known
+as the &ldquo;sealing&rdquo; process. Men are here
+married&ndash;&ndash;by proxy&ndash;&ndash;to others than the actual
+living wife, sometimes with her consent,
+sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned,
+was sealed thus for eternity to Martha
+Washington and to Empress Josephine. It
+sounds farcical and foolish in the extreme;
+fit only to be counted as a silly joke, unworthy
+the attention of a sane soul for a
+minute; but it is terribly sober when it is
+remembered that there are hundreds of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_135' name='page_135'></a>135</span>
+thousands of innocent, honest, and unsuspecting
+Mormons who really and truly believe
+this to be the only road to eternal
+life and exaltation.</p>
+<p>Added to this is the doctrine of the deification
+of men. All the true and faithful
+Mormons are to become gods by and by,
+and create and populate new worlds; hence
+the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth.
+Adam is the owner and ruler of earth, and
+to him we pray. He is our God. As such
+he is only one in an endless procession of
+such beings.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;There has been and there now exists an
+endless procession of the Gods, stretching
+back into the eternities, that had no beginning
+and will have no end. Their existence
+runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless
+space.&rdquo;<a name='FNanchor_0003' id='FNanchor_0003'></a><a href='#Footnote_0003' class='fnanchor'>[3]</a></p>
+<p>Possibly the most popular hymn among
+these people is the following, written by
+one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R.
+Snow. It is in their collection and now in
+use:</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_136' name='page_136'></a>136</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='center cg'>HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER</p>
+<p class='cg'><br />
+O my Father, thou that dwellest<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In the high and glorious place!<br />
+When shall I regain thy presence,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>And again behold thy face?<br />
+In thy holy habitation,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Did my spirit once reside?<br />
+In my first primeval childhood,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Was I nurtured by thy side?<br />
+<br />
+For a wise and glorious purpose<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Thou hast placed me here on earth,<br />
+And withheld the recollection<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Of my former friends and birth;<br />
+Yet ofttimes a secret something<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Whispered, &ldquo;You&rsquo;re a stranger here&rdquo;;<br />
+And I felt that I had wandered<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>From a more exalted sphere.<br />
+<br />
+I had learned to call thee Father,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Through thy Spirit from on high;<br />
+But, until the Key of Knowledge<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Was restored, I knew not why.<br />
+In the heavens are parents single?<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>No; the thought makes reason stare!<br />
+Truth is reason; truth eternal<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Tells me, I&rsquo;ve a mother there.<br />
+<br />
+When I leave this frail existence,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>When I lay this mortal by,<br />
+Father, mother, may I meet you<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In your royal court on high?
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_137' name='page_137'></a>137</span><br />
+Then, at length, when I&rsquo;ve completed<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>All you sent me forth to do,<br />
+With your mutual approbation<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Let me come and dwell with you.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0003' id='Footnote_0003'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0003'><span class='label'>[3]</span></a>
+<p>New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_138' name='page_138'></a>138</span>
+<a name='WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST' id='WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST'></a>
+<h2>WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor&rsquo;d mind<br />
+Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;<br />
+His soul proud Science never taught to stray<br />
+Far as the solar walk or milky way.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pope</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>When Mormonism was no longer compelled
+to maintain the defensive it quickly
+assumed the offensive. This was apparently
+deemed necessary for the existence of
+the system. Two kinds of preaching were
+indulged in by the elders on their missions,
+home and foreign. At home they declared
+the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including
+the doctrine of polygamy, a sweet morsel
+for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were
+trying by every means, Machiavellian or
+otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as Indians
+were called by the Mormons, at least to an
+extent which would allow them to remain
+undisturbed throughout the territory of
+Utah. Old Kanosh and other leaders were
+immersed for the remission of their sins,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_139' name='page_139'></a>139</span>
+but they were permitted to multiply unto
+themselves as many squaws as they cared
+for. It would take water stronger than the
+common alkaline pools contained to reach
+the morals of a heathen Ute.</p>
+<p>Very many of the Indians thus were made
+Mormons and white men were appointed as
+their bishops. Brigham Young used to
+make visits to them to try to instruct them
+in various things. For a considerable
+period he was the Superintendent of Indian
+Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable
+Mountain Meadow Massacre, in 1857, and
+for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered
+death.</p>
+<p>Possibly it was the influence of Mr.
+Young that kept the most of the red men
+from the warpath and thus saved the scattered
+settlers in the earlier days when there
+were so few to guard the isolated homes in
+the far-away nooks and ca&ntilde;ons of the
+mountains.</p>
+<p>The other sort of preaching in which the
+elders indulged was that of an absolute and
+unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah.
+Such was the plan of the elders who went
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_140' name='page_140'></a>140</span>
+to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is
+abundant evidence. When they deny polygamy
+now they have the consistency of
+definition to back them; to their manner of
+explaining, polygamy is the act of taking
+new wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy
+is the possessing of more than one wife.
+For this reason we are very bold in saying
+that polygamy is publicly practiced in Utah&ndash;&ndash;witness
+Joseph F. Smith as chief example.</p>
+<p>Although we may read of it, none can
+comprehend just what it means to a girl-wife,
+two thousand miles away from her
+parents, to be treated as an alien, in a land
+under the flag of the free. This was the
+case in the strictly Mormon settlements in
+Utah thirty years ago. Reason only kept
+the Giant Despair from the threshold of
+the mind. The bravery of these women
+can be compared only to the English
+women of the Sepoy Rebellion days of
+1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous
+husbands to their isolated posts on the
+Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally
+in the dangers, and to die lingeringly and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_141' name='page_141'></a>141</span>
+cruelly if necessary. Retreat and surrender
+never grew in the hearts of such
+women. It was so in the times that were
+called the &ldquo;dark days&rdquo; in Utah&ndash;&ndash;the time
+when the government applied its functions
+to the stamping out of polygamous practices,
+1883 to 1893&ndash;&ndash;ten terrible years for
+the Mormon as well as the non-Mormon.</p>
+<p>Add to this the fact that, unannounced,
+a brawny, stalwart Indian might walk in
+at the door. More than once has it so occurred
+in our home. One day the door
+was suddenly opened and in walked a
+grinning brave, armed with a long knife,
+and followed by his squaw; extending his
+empty hand toward the far-from-home
+girl-wife, alone in the house, he said,
+&ldquo;How-do!&rdquo; In telling us of it, she said:
+&ldquo;I was scared to death, I thought, but I
+would have shaken hands with him if I
+had died in the attempt. I would not let
+him know I feared him.&rdquo; But this was
+not Weber Tom.</p>
+<p>It was in those fearsome days when the
+leading men of Utah&ndash;&ndash;farmers, bankers,
+stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and
+conditions of the Latter-Day Saints&ndash;&ndash;were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_142' name='page_142'></a>142</span>
+being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up
+to our door the battle-scarred old warrior,
+Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes,
+or Goshutes.</p>
+<p>If perfection is beauty, this Indian was
+most beautiful, for he was the ugliest
+creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection.
+One eye had been gouged out, a
+knife-scar extended from his ear down
+across his mouth, and he was Herculean in
+physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he
+tried vainly to button it over his vast
+frontal protuberance, looking at me and
+saying, &ldquo;Too short, too short.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing
+my wife standing near, reached the reins of
+the bridle to her and said, &ldquo;Here, squaw,
+hol&rsquo; my hoss.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She said, quietly, &ldquo;Hold your own horse
+if you want him held.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Having had to accommodate himself to
+the rudeness of a civilized woman, he made
+other provision for his cayuse and then
+asked her, &ldquo;Wheh yo&rsquo;man?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She told him I was down in the field, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_143' name='page_143'></a>143</span>
+he then proceeded to find me. He was in
+the depths of trouble. He had several
+squaw-wives and feared he was to be arrested
+for it.</p>
+<p>Now he approached me. It was dramatic;
+it was high-class pantomime. It is
+too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or
+some other moving-picture machine had not
+been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs
+of his case that he walked stoically to his
+quest.</p>
+<p>Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began:
+&ldquo;You heap big chief. You talky this
+way&rdquo; (at the same time extending one
+finger straight from his lips). &ldquo;Mormon he
+talky this way&rdquo; (now extending two fingers,
+to show he understood them to talk with
+double tongue). &ldquo;Mormon telly me sojer
+men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me
+havy two, tree, four squaw. You heap big
+chief. You telly me this way&rdquo; (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: &ldquo;Me havy two, tree,
+four squaw. Mormon he telly me, me go
+jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap
+cry, <i>heap</i> cry, HEAP cry, by um by die!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This was accompanied by gestures, throwing
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_144' name='page_144'></a>144</span>
+his body backward in imitation of the
+dying woman whom fear had killed, according
+to his dramatic story.</p>
+<p>I told him something like this: &ldquo;No,
+heap big lie. You go back Skull Valley,
+you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you
+be heap good Injun!&rdquo; Upon this he grunted
+deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to
+his many-wived tents over across the creek,
+and soon we saw them filing off through the
+sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home,
+many miles over the Onaqui range.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_145' name='page_145'></a>145</span>
+<a name='POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY' id='POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY'></a>
+<h2>POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The man that lays his hand upon a woman,<br />
+Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch<br />
+Whom &rsquo;t were gross flattery to name a coward.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>John Tobin</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>A baby was sleeping,<br />
+Its mother was weeping.<br />
+&ndash;&ndash;<i>Samuel Lover</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Polygamy <i>may</i> die in Mormondom, but
+has never yet done so. Cases are often
+reported, and from the manner of their
+finding it is a certainty that new alliances
+are being formed continually between married
+men and unmarried women.</p>
+<p>Not long ago a very bright conversion
+was made in one of the missions of an
+evangelical denomination. The convert was
+a young woman of more than average intelligence.
+Some of her relatives had been
+polygamists, but she repudiated the whole
+cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other
+residence than her rightful home.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_146' name='page_146'></a>146</span></div>
+<p>Some time after she permitted herself to
+be persuaded that a young man of her
+acquaintance loved her more than he did
+the polygamous tenet of his church&ndash;&ndash;he was a
+Mormon&ndash;&ndash;and that he never would attempt
+to woo and win another woman while she
+remained his wife. She consented, and was
+happy in her home life. Not for a moment
+did she suspect him of double-dealing. Her
+honest heart was above entertaining such
+suspicion had it entered. Serenely she saw
+her children growing to useful womanhood.
+Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm
+sea of life; all was fine sailing. One day she
+was making some repairs in one of her husband&rsquo;s
+garments when a letter fell from a
+pocket. It bore the postmark of a city
+where they both had relatives, and it was
+quite natural that she should look into its
+contents.</p>
+<p>What despair and agony seized her when
+she read therein the statement from the
+&ldquo;other woman&rdquo; telling her &ldquo;fond&rdquo; husband
+of the birth of the child!</p>
+<p>The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto
+trusting wife immediately rose to the dignity
+of outraged womanhood and insulted
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_147' name='page_147'></a>147</span>
+wifehood and compelled the polygamist to
+choose at once between her and the concubine.
+He did so, choosing the younger
+woman and leaving her who had trusted
+him too fondly.</p>
+<p>This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah,
+but a living, festering story of the vivid
+present.</p>
+<p>One way of avoiding prosecution by the
+law is the surreptitious, clandestine rearing
+of children, whose mothers lose no prestige
+in the community; for it is well understood
+&ldquo;among the neighbors and friends.&rdquo; &ldquo;Public
+polygamy has been suspended,&rdquo; but the
+requirement of the doctrine remains unchanged.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_149' name='page_149'></a>149</span>
+<a name='GREAT_SALT_LAKE' id='GREAT_SALT_LAKE'></a>
+<h2>GREAT SALT LAKE</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_150' name='page_150'></a>150</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>So lonely &rsquo;twas that God himself<br />
+Scarce seemed there to be.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Coleridge</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'><span class='indent10'>&nbsp;</span>This is truth the poet sings<br />
+That a sorrow&rsquo;s crown of sorrow is remembering<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>happier things.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Tennyson</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_151' name='page_151'></a>151</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>GREAT SALT LAKE</p>
+<p>Many stories, weird and lurid, true and
+untrue, have been told of this body of
+saline water lying imposed on the breast of
+the beautiful and scenic State of Utah.
+Although one of the transcontinental highways
+of ocean-to-ocean travel has extended
+its bands of steel directly across its wide
+bosom for many miles, it is still a spot
+where mystery lingers.</p>
+<p>Private as well as public legends are
+handed down from lip to ear rather than
+from page to eye. For that reason there are
+tales of this wonderful salt sea to be learned
+only by residing in the vicinity. Its natural
+moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual
+characteristics would make a book.</p>
+<p>The briny pond is but a wee thing as
+compared with its gigantic dimensions in
+the days when its waters were sweet and
+had an outlet to the north. Then its arms
+spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_152' name='page_152'></a>152</span>
+from the northern end to the southern, and
+145 miles across from east to west. The
+area was 20,000 square miles. This greater
+lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet
+above the level of the sea. Geologists have
+named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor
+of the intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington
+Irving has so well fixed in American
+literature.</p>
+<p>By some as yet unknown cataclysm a
+great break was made at the north end of
+this inland ocean and its pent volume was
+poured into the ca&ntilde;on of the Port Neuf
+toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced
+the level four hundred feet, but the old
+beach line may still be easily noted. Gradually
+this diminished body became smaller
+and smaller until it reached the present
+stage of desiccation.</p>
+<p>So impure is this heavy liquid that after
+evaporation there is a residuum of twenty-eight
+pounds of solid matter in every hundred.
+This is composed of salt, magnesium,
+and other elements carrying three dollars of
+gold to the ton; the gold is not made a
+matter of trade or of industry because
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_153' name='page_153'></a>153</span>
+facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and
+none of vegetable; in fact, at every point
+where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is
+that of a very small gnat which, mosquito-like,
+lays its eggs on the surface of the
+water. The larv&aelig;, when driven shoreward,
+collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles
+to the leeward. Myriads of seagulls here
+find a dainty feast.</p>
+<p>Salt Lake affords the finest and really the
+only beach-bathing resort in the whole
+interocean country. The bathing is attended
+with little, if any, danger. In
+thirty years only two persons have been
+lost. These strangled before assistance
+reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the
+south end of the lake, whither the high
+winds from the north had drifted it. All
+the parts protected by the sand were perfectly
+preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.</p>
+<p>The tops of a number of sunken mountains
+still protrude above the surface and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_154' name='page_154'></a>154</span>
+form islands: such are Fremont, Church,
+Stanbury, Carrington, and others. Some of
+these are habitable, possessing fine springs
+and irrigable land. Very few people live
+on these islands, but some brave spirits
+dare to face the semiprivations of such
+isolation and stay there with their herds.</p>
+<p>Doubtless, many tales of heroism and
+devotion could be told of those who have
+lived on these islands. One of the best
+known is that of Mrs. Wenner, who, a few
+years after her marriage, went with her
+husband and little children to live on
+Fremont Island. Her husband&rsquo;s health failing,
+the oversight of the herds fell largely
+upon her, but she cheerily took up the
+burden, the while she trained her little
+ones, and was ever a true companion to
+him whom she daily saw slipping away.</p>
+<p>The end came on a dread and fearsome
+day, while the faithful man who worked
+for them was detained on the mainland by
+a raging storm. The children and an incompetent
+woman could give her little assistance
+or consolation. There on the
+lonely, storm-lashed island, with faint-whispered
+words of love, the dear one
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_155' name='page_155'></a>155</span>
+closed his eyes forever. Tenderly she cared
+for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two
+watchfires intended as a signal to those on
+the mainland. On the night of the second
+day, the man made his dangerous way back
+to the island&ndash;&ndash;and with his help she laid
+the loved husband in his island grave, with
+no service but the tears and prayers of
+those who mourned.</p>
+<p>This is but one story of desolation and
+sorrow&ndash;&ndash;but the deep, briny waters and
+the barren, forbidding shores hold in their
+keeping many suggestions of mystery and
+of tears.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_157' name='page_157'></a>157</span>
+<a name='ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE' id='ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE'></a>
+<h2>ARGONAUT SAM&rsquo;S TALE</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_158' name='page_158'></a>158</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word<br />
+Would harrow up thy soul.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_159' name='page_159'></a>159</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>ARGONAUT SAM&rsquo;S TALE</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>&ldquo;I panned him out over and over ag&rsquo;in,<br />
+But found nary sign of color,&rdquo;<br />
+Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,<br />
+As sitting atop of a box, to some men<br />
+He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent38'>&nbsp;</span>And then,<br />
+With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back<br />
+And said: &ldquo;&rsquo;Twuz one night in the fifties I know;<br />
+Ther&rsquo; kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below<br />
+A youngish-like feller; but steppin&rsquo; so slow<br />
+I heartily pitied him even before<br />
+I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack<br />
+Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack<br />
+Of more&rsquo;n enough power to bring to my door<br />
+That tremblin&rsquo; young body.<br />
+<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_160' name='page_160'></a>160</span><br />
+<span class='indent25'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;He hed a small pack&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+A blanket an&rsquo; buckskin&ndash;&ndash;but that wa&rsquo;nt no lack<br />
+In them days when notions an&rsquo; fashions wuz slack;<br />
+When all a man needed, besides pick an&rsquo; pan,<br />
+Wuz a wallet o&rsquo; leather to tie up his dust&ndash;&ndash;&rsquo;R<br />
+a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust<br />
+Till he found a good prospeck); an&rsquo; then he&rsquo;d put in<br />
+His very best licks; fur in them days &rsquo;twuz sin<br />
+Fer a man strong o&rsquo; body, o&rsquo; wind an&rsquo; o&rsquo; limb<br />
+T&rsquo; hang erround loafin&rsquo; all day, &rsquo;twuz too thin.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;Well, this puny feller hed grin&rsquo;-stunlike grit,<br />
+But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;<br />
+&rsquo;N fell down a-faintin&rsquo; jist inside my door&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+His eyes set &rsquo;n&rsquo; glassy&ndash;&ndash;he seemed done fer, shore.<br />
+So I straightened him out, couldn&rsquo;t do nothin&rsquo; more
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_161' name='page_161'></a>161</span><br />
+<br />
+Than to put back his hair an&rsquo; t&rsquo; dampen his brow,<br />
+An&rsquo; to feel fer his pulse&ndash;&ndash;joy! I found  it&ndash;&ndash;slow<br />
+An&rsquo; flickery though, stoppin&rsquo; and startin&rsquo;, an&rsquo; now<br />
+Gone ag&rsquo;in; then it revived, but so faint, don&rsquo;t you know,<br />
+That minute by minute I couldn&rsquo;t hev said<br />
+Whether the feller wuz livin&rsquo; or dead.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;All night I watched by him; an&rsquo; &rsquo;long a-to&rsquo;rds light<br />
+I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!<br />
+I made up my mind that I&rsquo;d save that young life<br />
+If it took me all summer. I&rsquo;d fight<br />
+With grim death to a finish fer him.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent34'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;An&rsquo; so I begun.<br />
+I quit workin&rsquo; my claim<br />
+Where I&rsquo;d git on an average (&rsquo;pon my good name)<br />
+An ounce or more daily of number one gold.<br />
+An&rsquo; in them days we thought nothin&rsquo;, you see,<br />
+Of layin&rsquo; by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_162' name='page_162'></a>162</span><br />
+Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an&rsquo; wuz thick<br />
+Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick<br />
+Hed plenty o&rsquo; gold in nuggets or dust&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+An&rsquo; the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.<br />
+So I shouldered my task.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent28'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;It wuz wonderful how<br />
+The new life appeared to come back to my boy;<br />
+(Fer that&rsquo;s what I called him&ndash;&ndash;&lsquo;my boy&rsquo;) an&rsquo; the joy<br />
+O&rsquo; perviden fer suthin&rsquo; besides my lone self<br />
+Made me happy. Y&rsquo; see, th&rsquo; experunce wuz new;<br />
+Fer I&rsquo;d lived all alone ever since forty-two,<br />
+When, back in Ohio, I&rsquo;d buried my wife<br />
+An&rsquo; baby. Since then I&rsquo;d looked on my life<br />
+As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.<br />
+So that&rsquo;s why I lived all alone, don&rsquo;t you see?<br />
+I didn&rsquo;t love nothin&rsquo; and nothin&rsquo; loved me.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;But now of young Josh&ndash;&ndash;his name wuz Josh Clark&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+He&rsquo;d come frum ol&rsquo; York State&ndash;&ndash;could sing like a lark&ndash;&ndash;
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_163' name='page_163'></a>163</span><br />
+Wuz finely brung up, an&rsquo; that mother o&rsquo; his,<br />
+A sister he tol&rsquo; me, an&rsquo; a girl he called Liz.<br />
+&rsquo;D a give the hull earth if they only could know<br />
+If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he<br />
+Would never be grateful to them nur to me.<br />
+Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem<br />
+After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam<br />
+O&rsquo; thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.<br />
+&rsquo;Sides spendin&rsquo; my all I hed broken down too,<br />
+Wuz a shattered ol&rsquo; man, though but then fifty-two;<br />
+Fer I&rsquo;d give up my health an&rsquo; my strength to pull through<br />
+My boy&ndash;&ndash;fer I loved him, if ever men do.<br />
+But, no; it appeared that he hedn&rsquo;t no heart.<br />
+Not once did he thank me, and never asked why<br />
+I nussed him to life, &rsquo;stid o&rsquo; lettin&rsquo; him die.<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_164' name='page_164'></a>164</span><br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,<br />
+An&rsquo; once in the dusk, as we set on the sands<br />
+Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands<br />
+So quick an&rsquo; so blamed unexpected, you see,<br />
+Grabbed me by the hair an&rsquo; out with a knife,<br />
+An&rsquo; demanded my gold. I thought fer my life<br />
+He wuz jokin&rsquo;; but no, when I seed that fierce look<br />
+Of murder an&rsquo; pillage, I knowed what I&rsquo;d done;<br />
+I&rsquo;d thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun<br />
+An&rsquo; now wuz becomin&rsquo; its prey.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent29'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;But, I&rsquo;d none:<br />
+I&rsquo;d spent all the surplus I hed to save him.<br />
+I&rsquo;d missed all the summer an&rsquo; fall to nuss him<br />
+Who now like a tiger wuz takin&rsquo; my life.<br />
+&lsquo;Hol&rsquo; on, my dear Josh! Hol&rsquo; on, my dear boy!&rsquo;<br />
+No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin&rsquo; my coat
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_165' name='page_165'></a>165</span><br />
+He throwed me ag&rsquo;in, now a madman, indeed.<br />
+His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, &lsquo;Do yer best.<br />
+I&rsquo;ve give you now all that I ever possessed<br />
+But life. Take it now if you like!&rsquo; An&rsquo; he struck.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;How long I laid there in the dark, I don&rsquo;t know;<br />
+But when I kem to I wuz layin&rsquo; in bed,<br />
+An&rsquo; the people wuz talkin&rsquo; so easy an&rsquo; low,<br />
+An&rsquo; I knowed by the bandages too on my head<br />
+That I hed been nigh to the gates o&rsquo; the dead.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;An&rsquo; &lsquo;Where wuz Josh Clark?&rsquo; did you say? I don&rsquo;t know.<br />
+He never wuz seen in the diggins below,<br />
+Ner heerd of in them parts ag&rsquo;in, fer I know<br />
+He&rsquo;d a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;<br />
+Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,<br />
+But wuz mighty in doin&rsquo;. So he got away.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_166' name='page_166'></a>166</span><br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;So it seems that some people is jist so depraved<br />
+There ain&rsquo;t a thing in &rsquo;em that ort to be saved.<br />
+&rsquo;Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;<br />
+He lived fer hisself an&rsquo; fer hisself alone.<br />
+&rsquo;N&rsquo; &rsquo;at&rsquo;s why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,<br />
+The thing &rsquo;at it&rsquo;s cost me so dearly to larn&ndash;&ndash;&lsquo;I panned him out over an&rsquo; over ag&rsquo;in,<br />
+But found nary sign of a color.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_167' name='page_167'></a>167</span>
+<a name='THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD' id='THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD'></a>
+<h2>THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_168' name='page_168'></a>168</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;<br />
+And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Southey</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>What matter how the night behaved?<br />
+What matter how the north wind raved?<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Whittier</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_169' name='page_169'></a>169</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD</p>
+<p>We dread the unseen. Fear is always
+enervating; sometimes even deadly. Who
+has not fearsomely anticipated that which
+never came and wasted valuable energy
+and time in building bridges none are ever
+to cross? The surgical patient actually suffers
+more at sight of somber white-clad
+nurses, and the thought of the operation,
+than he does from the ordeal itself. It
+may be that we subconsciously dread the
+helpless state of unconsciousness into which
+the an&aelig;sthetic plunges us, and hesitate at
+a trip, no matter how short, into death&rsquo;s
+borderland, preferring to keep our own
+hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.</p>
+<p>I wonder why we become terror-stricken
+at the thought of ghosts. The untutored
+child needs only a hint to make him shy at
+the dark; and a lad has to be pretty large
+before he can walk far at night without
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_170' name='page_170'></a>170</span>
+once in a while looking behind him, just to
+be certain there is nothing following.</p>
+<p>Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and
+other uncanny apparitions are unintentional
+inheritances of the race; a race that knows
+little more about the impending and impinging
+unseen than did the Saxon fathers
+who gave us our spooky speech.</p>
+<p>I once had an experience which grows in
+interest as the years pass by. I had no
+fear or thought of fear that night, and the
+scenes of the evening were absolutely unannounced;
+they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no
+program.</p>
+<p>One afternoon I was to go to one of my
+appointments, a mining town in Utah. In
+order to relieve home cares I took with me
+my four-year-old son, who thus would get
+some novel entertainment as well. To the
+buggy I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan
+cayuse, and started for the distant point.
+It was a little stormy all the way, and by
+the time we had well begun the service it
+had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and
+continued with such strength that soon
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_171' name='page_171'></a>171</span>
+there appeared no slant to the falling
+columns. By the time church was dismissed
+the blizzard was on in full force,
+and the roads were already so filled with
+the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a
+saddle, and leaving the little lad with
+friends, started for home, where I was
+under appointment to preach that evening.
+My way lay in the north, in the very teeth
+of the raging storm. With head tucked
+down, I trusted the reins to Jenny, who
+had never disappointed me in many a
+mountain trip, but I had not gone far until
+I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I
+discovered that the mountains were on my
+left instead of on my right, as they should
+have been. Jenny had turned tail to the
+storm. Feeling herself unwilling to face the
+arctic onset, she was retreating.</p>
+<p>Only the dire necessity of the occasion
+made me compel her to face the torturing
+attack of the icy shafts that were hurling
+themselves on us like steel points.</p>
+<p>We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon
+the only road, now drift-filled, and take an
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_172' name='page_172'></a>172</span>
+unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers,
+buckbrush, and other tangled chaparral,
+where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an
+eye on the mountains and not get turned
+around again. I felt the force of Cardinal
+Newman&rsquo;s immortal hymn,</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>... amid the encircling gloom,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Lead thou me on!<br />
+The night is dark and I am far from home;<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Lead thou me on!</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>We had not gone far until I began to
+hear the sweetest music. I could not
+imagine from whence it fell, as I knew
+there was not a human home in all that
+plain between the two settlements. Then I
+heard personal conversation; in fact, the
+night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in
+the least. They seemed to have an open
+road too, while we were plunging through
+deep snowdrifts, my feet already dragging
+along their tops.</p>
+<p>When the first carriage load came up I
+saw it was only a desert juniper. The
+boreal gale sweeping through its shivering
+branches made converse in the music of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_173' name='page_173'></a>173</span>
+the wild, Jenny and I being the only seat-holders
+in that grand opera. Soon another
+caravan of belated folks drove up; but it
+was only a load of hay that had been over-tipped.
+Others came, but they were only
+bushes or some inanimate object. There
+was little life out on that perishing night.</p>
+<p>After hours of fearsome and benumbing
+travel, Jenny stumbled with me into the
+little home town. A good feed of oats and
+a warm shelter doubtless ended the story
+happily for her. But for me&ndash;&ndash;the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard
+had become real. They spoke to me that
+night and I understood.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_175' name='page_175'></a>175</span>
+<a name='THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST' id='THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST'></a>
+<h2>THE GREAT NORTHWEST</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_176' name='page_176'></a>176</span></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+<p>Westward the course of empire takes its way.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Berkeley</i>.</p>
+<p>In the wilderness shall waters break out, and
+streams in the desert. And the parched ground
+shall become a pool, and the thirsty land springs
+of water.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_177' name='page_177'></a>177</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE GREAT NORTHWEST</p>
+<p>Possibly there are those who find themselves
+thinking that Western tales are travelers&rsquo;
+tales and must be taken with &ldquo;a grain
+of salt.&rdquo; Some also say that the man who
+crosses the Missouri never is able to tell
+the truth again; this is crude, I know, and
+in some cases true, but they who are so
+afflicted were just the same before they ever
+saw the Missouri.</p>
+<p>Our waterless areas were considered by
+Captain Bonneville (as told by Washington
+Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless
+wastes. In Astoria&ndash;&ndash;chapter thirty-four&ndash;&ndash;these
+words are used:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;In this dreary desert of sand and gravel
+of the Snake here and there is a thin and
+scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or
+the buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes
+between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific
+are even more desolate and barren than
+the naked, upper prairies on the Atlantic
+side; they present vast desert tracts that
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_178' name='page_178'></a>178</span>
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose
+dreary and thirsty wilds between the habitations
+of man, in traversing which the
+wanderer will often be in danger of perishing.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote
+the matchless American <i>litt&eacute;rateur</i>, Washington
+Irving, of &ldquo;Sunnyside,&rdquo; author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George
+Washington, and the Broken Heart, which
+made Lord Byron weep. The doughty
+Captain Benjamin L. E. Bonneville, who
+died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of
+absence and a furlough, endured the
+pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer
+added the Trail to literature; but his
+eye of vision did not see these great
+stones of the commonwealth, Utah, Wyoming,
+Oregon, Washington, and Idaho.
+The very region so carefully pictured above
+as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of
+Idaho and a large portion of Oregon; a
+region perfectly adapted to the sustenance
+of immense population and intense development.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_179' name='page_179'></a>179</span></div>
+<p>Moses understood all the wisdom of the
+Egyptians. We do not, but we do know
+that the biggest thing in an arid country
+is the ditch. America&rsquo;s triumph to date
+in the twentieth century is the completion
+of the Panama Ditch. The ditch is in
+Idaho more valuable by far than the land,
+for without it the parched soil is practically
+worthless, being an area of shimmering sand,
+where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned
+toad, the rough-and-ready rattlesnake, and
+the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which
+preys on the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.</p>
+<p>The modern Western American is rapidly
+learning a modified wisdom of the ancient
+irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how
+to drain the irrigated acres and leech
+these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his
+deep basaltic furrows for the majestic Snake
+and other streams, these gorges of nature
+had been only mossy beds over which lazily
+slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and &ldquo;bitter moon-mad sea.&rdquo; Now
+man, the mightiest of all magicians, has
+lured the liquid serpents from their age-long
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_180' name='page_180'></a>180</span>
+couches, cut them into thousands of
+smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert,
+drowning its death and making it to bloom
+and blossom.</p>
+<p>As a concrete instance of the artificial
+possibilities of Idaho and contiguous regions,
+I will here instance a statement made
+for me by the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent
+of Pocatello District, and resident
+of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914:
+&ldquo;Where ten years ago this very minute
+there was not a fence nor a furrow (only
+the conditions above described by Washington
+Irving) there are now such municipalities
+as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley,
+and others soon to be as fine. As
+pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin
+Falls was made on July 14. I found one or
+two frame buildings and some tents stuck
+around in the sagebrush; some streets had
+been marked out, but no grading had been
+done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the
+main features of the place. In October I
+preached the first sermon ever delivered by
+any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_181' name='page_181'></a>181</span>
+5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909,
+we dedicated the present edifice at a cost
+of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;To-day this church has a membership of
+more than five hundred. This youngster
+has turned back into the treasuries of the
+denomination in regular collections more
+than $3,000. The city has to-day seven
+thousand people. There are between four
+and five miles of asphalt-paved streets, a
+perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks
+throughout the whole municipality. An investment
+of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings,
+besides a high school costing a quarter of a
+million dollars. These combined schools
+have an enrollment of over two thousand
+pupils with a teaching force of above sixty;
+the high school graduated forty-eight last
+commencement. There is not a saloon in
+the entire county.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Surely &ldquo;progress&rdquo; is here spelled in large
+letters.</p>
+<p>Years ago, with the narrow strip along
+the Atlantic in mind, Longfellow wrote,
+&ldquo;God had sifted three kingdoms to find
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_182' name='page_182'></a>182</span>
+the wheat for this planting.&rdquo; And as the
+mighty empire took its course toward the
+West of limitless opportunity the good God
+kept the sieve running full time, so that
+to-day</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The best of the best<br />
+Are in the Northwest.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_4' id='linki_4'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_183' name='page_183'></a>183</span>
+<img src='images/p0182a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='331' height='361' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+END OF THE TRAIL<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<!-- generated by ppg.rb version: 3.19 -->
+<!-- timestamp: Fri Oct 23 18:48:28 -0600 2009 -->
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 30320 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+  TO MY MOTHER,
+  TO MY WIFE;
+  LIKEWISE TO
+  THE PREACHERS OF
+  UTAH MISSION
+  AND
+  IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  PREFACE                                                            9
+  GOD'S MINISTER                                                    11
+  THE WESTERN TRAIL                                                 13
+  THE LONG TRAIL                                                    19
+  THE DESERT                                                        31
+  SAGEBRUSH                                                         39
+  THE IRON TRAIL                                                    47
+      A Railroad Saint in Idaho                                     49
+      An Unusual Kindness                                           59
+  INDIANS OF THE TRAIL                                              63
+      Introductory Words                                            65
+      Pocatello, the Chief                                          67
+      The Babyless Mother                                           72
+      Mary Muskrat                                                  76
+      Bad Ben                                                       79
+      A Three-Cornered Sermon                                       82
+      Three Years After                                             87
+      Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa                             92
+      The White Man's Book                                          96
+  LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS                                             99
+  THE STAGECOACH                                                   107
+  AMONG THE HILLS                                                  117
+      The Mother Deer                                              119
+      The Shepherd                                                 121
+      The Feathered Drummer                                        122
+  MORMONDOM                                                        123
+      The Trail of the Mormon                                      125
+      Some Mormon Beliefs                                          131
+      Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist                                    138
+      Polygamy of To-Day                                           145
+  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                  149
+  ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE                                              157
+  THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD                                       167
+  THE GREAT NORTHWEST                                              175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  J. D. Gillilan                                        _Frontispiece_
+  Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian                                    64
+  Wallowa Lake                                                      94
+  End of the Trail                                                 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the repertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+                 _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+           As terrace upon terrace
+           Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+           And stretch away to dizzy heights
+           To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+           From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+           With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+                   Bare of other cloak--
+           Transforming them to rains and snows
+           To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+           So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+           High reaches out above all earthly things
+           And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+           Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+                   Richest of blessings,
+                   Holiest fruit of heaven--
+           Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+           That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+           And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+                   To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+                  And step by step since time began
+                  I see the steady gain of man.
+                                        --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+              Those mighty pyramids of stone
+                That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+              When nearer seen and better known
+                Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+                                        --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the canyony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+             Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+             And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+                                               --_Gray_.
+
+           As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+           their maps parts of the world which they do not
+           know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+           effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+           deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+           bogs.
+                                             --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+             This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+       The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+            There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+              In their houses of self-content;
+            There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+              In their fellowless firmament.
+            There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+              Where highways never ran.
+            But, let me live by the side of the road
+              And be a friend to man.
+                                        --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated canyons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+               That best portion of a good man's life--
+               His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+               Of kindness and of love.
+                                          --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+                   Man's inhumanity to man
+                   Makes countless thousands mourn.
+                   --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+             The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+             Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+                                              --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there canyon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+  Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+  because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+  Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+  these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+  A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+  [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+  So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+  return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+  and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+                  Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+                    Where'er it enters in
+                  Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+                    To slay the man of sin.
+                                    --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+                  Father of all! in every age,
+                    In every clime adored,
+                  By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+                    Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+                                --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+  Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble canyon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+            The book--this holy book, on every line
+            Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+            On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+            Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+            And signature of God Almighty stampt
+            From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+            This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+            Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+            Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+            And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+            And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+            And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+            Believed, obey'd.
+                                               --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+  [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+                    I love thy rocks and rills,
+                    Thy woods and templed hills,
+                    My heart with rapture thrills.
+                                        --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious canyons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+                 The distant mountains, that uprear
+                   Their solid bastions to the skies,
+                 Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+                   As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning canyon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+                  My high-blown pride
+            At length broke under me and now has left me,
+            Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+            Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+                                         --_Shakespeare_.
+
+  Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+  in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+                        Men of every station
+                          In the eye of fame,
+                        On a common level
+                          Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest repertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+             To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+             Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+             A various language;...
+                                      The hills
+             Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+                                              --_Bryant_.
+
+             Not vainly did the early Persian make
+             His altar the high places and the peak
+             Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+             A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+             The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+             Upreared of human hands.... compare
+             Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+             With Nature's realm of worship.
+                                               --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+              The ragged sky-line high in air
+              Sits boundary to sight
+              And seems to end the world;
+              But topping it by way well worn by braver
+                  pioneer,
+              A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+              Where love holds warm,
+              And schools and churches dot the land.
+              But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+              With load of dust-clad travelers
+              Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+              The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+              Winding in and out among the stately
+                  pines
+              (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+                  moss
+              O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+                  life),
+              May now be seen a mother deer
+              Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+              Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+              And motionless. In silence all
+              The passengers admire the instinct-love
+              Which not affrights the spotted babe
+              Fast sleeping at her feet.
+              "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+              "But if there were, how could one's heart
+              Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+              Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+             The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+             That with their lambs are unafraid
+             Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+             They crouch close in about his feet
+             Whene'er the coyote's cry
+             Or bear's low growl
+             Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+             Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+             And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+             And scented chaparral so dense,
+             To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+             Of the prowler of the hills;
+             While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+             Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+             The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+                 The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+                 The air in springtime afternoons
+                 Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+                 Whose echoes clear reverberate
+                 From precipice and timbered hills.
+                 No fifer plays accompaniment;
+                 No pageant proud or marching throng
+                 Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+                 Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+                 A double challenge is this gage,
+                 A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+                 As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+                 Defies his neighboring lord:
+                 So calls this crested pheasant-king
+                 For combat or for peace.
+                 The meek brown mate upon her nest
+                 Feels happy and secure
+                 While thus her lord by deed and word
+                 Displays his woodland bravery
+                 And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+  That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+  one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+  Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+  Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+  ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Moerk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy canyons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+  His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+            Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+            Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+            Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+            More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+            Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+            Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+                            --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+               "... who, yet alive, have gone
+               Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+               Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+  3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+  be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+  4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+  Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+  the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+  the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+                       HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+                O my Father, thou that dwellest
+                  In the high and glorious place!
+                When shall I regain thy presence,
+                  And again behold thy face?
+                In thy holy habitation,
+                  Did my spirit once reside?
+                In my first primeval childhood,
+                  Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+                For a wise and glorious purpose
+                  Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+                And withheld the recollection
+                  Of my former friends and birth;
+                Yet ofttimes a secret something
+                  Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+                And I felt that I had wandered
+                  From a more exalted sphere.
+
+                I had learned to call thee Father,
+                  Through thy Spirit from on high;
+                But, until the Key of Knowledge
+                  Was restored, I knew not why.
+                In the heavens are parents single?
+                  No; the thought makes reason stare!
+                Truth is reason; truth eternal
+                  Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+                When I leave this frail existence,
+                  When I lay this mortal by,
+                Father, mother, may I meet you
+                  In your royal court on high?
+                Then, at length, when I've completed
+                  All you sent me forth to do,
+                With your mutual approbation
+                  Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+  [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+            Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+            Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+            His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+            Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+                                                --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and canyons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+            The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+            Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+            Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+                                          --_John Tobin_.
+
+                       A baby was sleeping,
+                       Its mother was weeping.
+                       --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+                   So lonely 'twas that God himself
+                   Scarce seemed there to be.
+                                     --_Coleridge_.
+
+                      This is truth the poet sings
+            That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+                happier things.
+                                             --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the canyon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvae,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+              I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+              Would harrow up thy soul.
+                                        --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+  "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of color,"
+  Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+  As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+  He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+                                        And then,
+  With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+  And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+  Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+  A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+  I heartily pitied him even before
+  I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+  Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+  Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+  That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+                           "He hed a small pack--
+  A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+  In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+  When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+  Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+  a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+  Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+  His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+  Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+  T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+  "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+  But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+  'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+  His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+  So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+  Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+  An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found  it--slow
+  An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+  Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+  That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+  Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+  "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+  I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+  I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+  If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+  With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+                                    "An' so I begun.
+  I quit workin' my claim
+  Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+  An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+  An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+  Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+  Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+  Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+  Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+  An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+  So I shouldered my task.
+
+                              "It wuz wonderful how
+  The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+  (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+  O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+  Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+  Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+  When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+  An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+  As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+  So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+  I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+  "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+  He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+  Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+  A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+  'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+  If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+  Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+  Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+  After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+  O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+  'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+  Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+  Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+  My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+  But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+  Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+  I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+  "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+  An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+  Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+  So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+  Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+  An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+  He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+  Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+  I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+  An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+                               "But, I'd none:
+  I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+  I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+  Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+  'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+  No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+  I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+  He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+  His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+  I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+  But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+  "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+  But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+  An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+  An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+  That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+  "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+  He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+  Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+  He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+  Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+  But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+  "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+  There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+  'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+  He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+  'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+  The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+        an' over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+            The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+            And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+                                              --_Southey_.
+
+                What matter how the night behaved?
+                What matter how the north wind raved?
+                                        --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anaesthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+              ... amid the encircling gloom,
+                Lead thou me on!
+              The night is dark and I am far from home;
+                Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+  God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+  planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+  Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+  In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+  desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+  thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_litterateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+                        The best of the best
+                        Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
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diff --git a/30320.zip b/30320.zip
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #30320 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/30320)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+  TO MY MOTHER,
+  TO MY WIFE;
+  LIKEWISE TO
+  THE PREACHERS OF
+  UTAH MISSION
+  AND
+  IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  PREFACE                                                            9
+  GOD'S MINISTER                                                    11
+  THE WESTERN TRAIL                                                 13
+  THE LONG TRAIL                                                    19
+  THE DESERT                                                        31
+  SAGEBRUSH                                                         39
+  THE IRON TRAIL                                                    47
+      A Railroad Saint in Idaho                                     49
+      An Unusual Kindness                                           59
+  INDIANS OF THE TRAIL                                              63
+      Introductory Words                                            65
+      Pocatello, the Chief                                          67
+      The Babyless Mother                                           72
+      Mary Muskrat                                                  76
+      Bad Ben                                                       79
+      A Three-Cornered Sermon                                       82
+      Three Years After                                             87
+      Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa                             92
+      The White Man's Book                                          96
+  LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS                                             99
+  THE STAGECOACH                                                   107
+  AMONG THE HILLS                                                  117
+      The Mother Deer                                              119
+      The Shepherd                                                 121
+      The Feathered Drummer                                        122
+  MORMONDOM                                                        123
+      The Trail of the Mormon                                      125
+      Some Mormon Beliefs                                          131
+      Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist                                    138
+      Polygamy of To-Day                                           145
+  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                  149
+  ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE                                              157
+  THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD                                       167
+  THE GREAT NORTHWEST                                              175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  J. D. Gillilan                                        _Frontispiece_
+  Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian                                    64
+  Wallowa Lake                                                      94
+  End of the Trail                                                 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the répertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+                 _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+           As terrace upon terrace
+           Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+           And stretch away to dizzy heights
+           To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+           From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+           With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+                   Bare of other cloak--
+           Transforming them to rains and snows
+           To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+           So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+           High reaches out above all earthly things
+           And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+           Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+                   Richest of blessings,
+                   Holiest fruit of heaven--
+           Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+           That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+           And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+                   To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+                  And step by step since time began
+                  I see the steady gain of man.
+                                        --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+              Those mighty pyramids of stone
+                That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+              When nearer seen and better known
+                Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+                                        --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the cañony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+             Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+             And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+                                               --_Gray_.
+
+           As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+           their maps parts of the world which they do not
+           know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+           effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+           deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+           bogs.
+                                             --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+             This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+       The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+            There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+              In their houses of self-content;
+            There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+              In their fellowless firmament.
+            There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+              Where highways never ran.
+            But, let me live by the side of the road
+              And be a friend to man.
+                                        --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated cañons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+               That best portion of a good man's life--
+               His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+               Of kindness and of love.
+                                          --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+                   Man's inhumanity to man
+                   Makes countless thousands mourn.
+                   --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+             The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+             Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+                                              --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there cañon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+  Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+  because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+  Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+  these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+  A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+  [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+  So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+  return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+  and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+                  Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+                    Where'er it enters in
+                  Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+                    To slay the man of sin.
+                                    --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+                  Father of all! in every age,
+                    In every clime adored,
+                  By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+                    Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+                                --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+  Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble cañon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+            The book--this holy book, on every line
+            Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+            On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+            Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+            And signature of God Almighty stampt
+            From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+            This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+            Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+            Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+            And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+            And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+            And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+            Believed, obey'd.
+                                               --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+  [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+                    I love thy rocks and rills,
+                    Thy woods and templed hills,
+                    My heart with rapture thrills.
+                                        --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious cañons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+                 The distant mountains, that uprear
+                   Their solid bastions to the skies,
+                 Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+                   As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning cañon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+                  My high-blown pride
+            At length broke under me and now has left me,
+            Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+            Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+                                         --_Shakespeare_.
+
+  Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+  in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+                        Men of every station
+                          In the eye of fame,
+                        On a common level
+                          Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest répertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+             To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+             Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+             A various language;...
+                                      The hills
+             Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+                                              --_Bryant_.
+
+             Not vainly did the early Persian make
+             His altar the high places and the peak
+             Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+             A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+             The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+             Upreared of human hands.... compare
+             Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+             With Nature's realm of worship.
+                                               --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+              The ragged sky-line high in air
+              Sits boundary to sight
+              And seems to end the world;
+              But topping it by way well worn by braver
+                  pioneer,
+              A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+              Where love holds warm,
+              And schools and churches dot the land.
+              But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+              With load of dust-clad travelers
+              Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+              The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+              Winding in and out among the stately
+                  pines
+              (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+                  moss
+              O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+                  life),
+              May now be seen a mother deer
+              Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+              Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+              And motionless. In silence all
+              The passengers admire the instinct-love
+              Which not affrights the spotted babe
+              Fast sleeping at her feet.
+              "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+              "But if there were, how could one's heart
+              Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+              Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+             The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+             That with their lambs are unafraid
+             Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+             They crouch close in about his feet
+             Whene'er the coyote's cry
+             Or bear's low growl
+             Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+             Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+             And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+             And scented chaparral so dense,
+             To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+             Of the prowler of the hills;
+             While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+             Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+             The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+                 The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+                 The air in springtime afternoons
+                 Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+                 Whose echoes clear reverberate
+                 From precipice and timbered hills.
+                 No fifer plays accompaniment;
+                 No pageant proud or marching throng
+                 Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+                 Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+                 A double challenge is this gage,
+                 A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+                 As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+                 Defies his neighboring lord:
+                 So calls this crested pheasant-king
+                 For combat or for peace.
+                 The meek brown mate upon her nest
+                 Feels happy and secure
+                 While thus her lord by deed and word
+                 Displays his woodland bravery
+                 And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+  That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+  one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+  Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+  Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+  ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Mörk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy cañons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+  His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+            Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+            Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+            Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+            More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+            Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+            Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+                            --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+               "... who, yet alive, have gone
+               Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+               Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+  3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+  be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+  4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+  Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+  the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+  the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+                       HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+                O my Father, thou that dwellest
+                  In the high and glorious place!
+                When shall I regain thy presence,
+                  And again behold thy face?
+                In thy holy habitation,
+                  Did my spirit once reside?
+                In my first primeval childhood,
+                  Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+                For a wise and glorious purpose
+                  Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+                And withheld the recollection
+                  Of my former friends and birth;
+                Yet ofttimes a secret something
+                  Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+                And I felt that I had wandered
+                  From a more exalted sphere.
+
+                I had learned to call thee Father,
+                  Through thy Spirit from on high;
+                But, until the Key of Knowledge
+                  Was restored, I knew not why.
+                In the heavens are parents single?
+                  No; the thought makes reason stare!
+                Truth is reason; truth eternal
+                  Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+                When I leave this frail existence,
+                  When I lay this mortal by,
+                Father, mother, may I meet you
+                  In your royal court on high?
+                Then, at length, when I've completed
+                  All you sent me forth to do,
+                With your mutual approbation
+                  Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+  [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+            Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+            Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+            His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+            Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+                                                --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and cañons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+            The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+            Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+            Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+                                          --_John Tobin_.
+
+                       A baby was sleeping,
+                       Its mother was weeping.
+                       --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+                   So lonely 'twas that God himself
+                   Scarce seemed there to be.
+                                     --_Coleridge_.
+
+                      This is truth the poet sings
+            That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+                happier things.
+                                             --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the cañon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvæ,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+              I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+              Would harrow up thy soul.
+                                        --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+  "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of color,"
+  Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+  As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+  He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+                                        And then,
+  With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+  And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+  Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+  A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+  I heartily pitied him even before
+  I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+  Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+  Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+  That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+                           "He hed a small pack--
+  A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+  In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+  When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+  Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+  a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+  Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+  His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+  Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+  T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+  "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+  But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+  'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+  His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+  So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+  Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+  An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found  it--slow
+  An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+  Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+  That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+  Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+  "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+  I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+  I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+  If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+  With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+                                    "An' so I begun.
+  I quit workin' my claim
+  Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+  An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+  An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+  Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+  Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+  Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+  Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+  An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+  So I shouldered my task.
+
+                              "It wuz wonderful how
+  The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+  (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+  O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+  Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+  Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+  When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+  An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+  As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+  So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+  I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+  "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+  He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+  Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+  A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+  'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+  If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+  Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+  Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+  After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+  O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+  'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+  Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+  Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+  My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+  But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+  Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+  I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+  "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+  An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+  Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+  So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+  Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+  An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+  He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+  Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+  I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+  An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+                               "But, I'd none:
+  I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+  I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+  Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+  'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+  No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+  I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+  He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+  His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+  I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+  But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+  "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+  But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+  An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+  An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+  That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+  "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+  He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+  Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+  He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+  Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+  But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+  "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+  There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+  'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+  He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+  'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+  The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+        an' over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+            The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+            And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+                                              --_Southey_.
+
+                What matter how the night behaved?
+                What matter how the north wind raved?
+                                        --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anæsthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+              ... amid the encircling gloom,
+                Lead thou me on!
+              The night is dark and I am far from home;
+                Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+  God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+  planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+  Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+  In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+  desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+  thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_littérateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+                        The best of the best
+                        Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
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+</head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_1' id='linki_1'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/f0001-image.jpg' alt='' title='' width='389' height='653' /><br />
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h1>TRAIL TALES</h1>
+<p class='tp' >BY</p>
+<p class='tp' style='font-size:1.2em;'>JAMES DAVID GILLILAN</p>
+
+<div style='margin:60px auto; text-align:center;'>
+<img alt='emblem' src='images/f0002-image.jpg' />
+</div>
+
+<p class='tp' style='font-size:larger;'>THE ABINGDON PRESS</p>
+<p class='tp' style='margin-bottom:20px;'>NEW YORK&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;CINCINNATI</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<p class='tp' >Copyright, 1915, by<br />JAMES DAVID GILLILAN</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<p class='tp' style='margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:20px;'>DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY<br />
+TO MY MOTHER,<br />
+TO MY WIFE;<br />
+LIKEWISE TO<br />
+THE PREACHERS OF<br />
+UTAH MISSION<br />
+AND<br />
+IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<table border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Contents' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Preface</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#PREFACE'>9</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>God&rsquo;s Minister</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#GODS_MINISTER'>11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Western Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WESTERN_TRAIL'>13</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Long Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_LONG_TRAIL'>19</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Desert</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_DESERT'>31</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Sagebrush</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#SAGEBRUSH'>39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Iron Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_IRON_TRAIL'>47</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Railroad Saint in Idaho</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO'>49</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;An Unusual Kindness</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS'>59</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Indians of the Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL'>63</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Introductory Words</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#INTRODUCTORY_WORDS'>65</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pocatello, the Chief</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF'>67</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Babyless Mother</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER'>72</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mary Muskrat</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#MARY_MUSKRAT'>76</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bad Ben</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#BAD_BEN'>79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A Three-Cornered Sermon</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#A_THREECORNERED_SERMON'>82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Three Years After</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THREE_YEARS_AFTER'>87</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA'>92</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The White Man&rsquo;s Book</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK'>96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Lights and Sidelights</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS'>99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Stagecoach</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_STAGECOACH'>107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Among the Hills</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#AMONG_THE_HILLS'>117</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Mother Deer</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_MOTHER_DEER'>119</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Shepherd</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_SHEPHERD'>121</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Feathered Drummer</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER'>122</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Mormondom</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#MORMONDOM'>123</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Trail of the Mormon</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON'>125</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Some Mormon Beliefs</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS'>131</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST'>138</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Polygamy of To-Day</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY'>145</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Great Salt Lake</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#GREAT_SALT_LAKE'>149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Argonaut Sam&rsquo;s Tale</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE'>157</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Wraith of the Blizzard</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD'>167</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>The Great Northwest</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST'>175</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<h3>ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<table border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Illustrations' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<col style='width:75%;' />
+<col style='width:25%;' />
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>J. D. Gillilan</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_1'><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_2'>64</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>Wallowa Lake</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_3'>94</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'><span class='smcap'>End of the Trail</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_4'>183</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_9' name='page_9'></a>9</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='PREFACE' id='PREFACE'></a>
+<h2>PREFACE</h2>
+</div>
+<p>In his young manhood the writer of
+these sketches came up into this realm of
+widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters,
+and happiest people to engraft the green
+twig of his life upon the activities of the
+mountaineers of the thrilling West.</p>
+<p>At that time the vast plains and the barren
+valleys were silvered over with the
+ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily
+and aimlessly the many unharnessed arroyo-making
+streams waiting only the appearance
+of their master, man. Under his scientific,
+skilled, and economic guidance these
+wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to
+work, taking the place of clouds where there
+are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the
+well-nigh illimitable acres of grain and other
+home-making products.</p>
+<p>The West has an abundant variety of
+life of a sort most intensely human. Life,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_10' name='page_10'></a>10</span>
+always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands,
+seems to have accentuated individuality
+here in a wondrous and contagious degree.</p>
+<p>These few stories, culled from the r&eacute;pertoire
+of an active life of more than thirty
+years, are samples of personal experiences,
+and are taken almost at random from
+mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.</p>
+<p>As a minister the writer has had wide
+and varied opportunities in all the Northwest,
+but more especially in Utah, Oregon,
+and Idaho. Many a man much more modest
+has far excelled him in life experiences,
+but some of them have never told.</p>
+<p>This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately
+dedicated to them of the Trails.</p>
+<p class='ralign'>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_11' name='page_11'></a>11</span>
+<a name='GODS_MINISTER' id='GODS_MINISTER'></a>
+<h2>GOD&rsquo;S MINISTER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='center cg'><i>Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers</i></p>
+<p class='cg'><br />
+As terrace upon terrace<br />
+Rise the mountains o&rsquo;er the humbler hills<br />
+And stretch away to dizzy heights<br />
+To meet heaven&rsquo;s own pure blue;<br />
+From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds<br />
+With which to wrap their heads and shoulders&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Bare of other cloak&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+Transforming them to rains and snows<br />
+To bless this elsewise desert world:<br />
+<br />
+So, he who stands God&rsquo;s minister &rsquo;mong men,<br />
+High reaches out above all earthly things<br />
+And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;<br />
+Conveys them down in blessings to mankind&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Richest of blessings,<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>Holiest fruit of heaven&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life<br />
+That springs hard by the Lamb&rsquo;s white throne,<br />
+And bears the plenteous leaves which grow<br />
+<span class='indent8'>&nbsp;</span>To heal the wounded nations.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_13' name='page_13'></a>13</span></div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_WESTERN_TRAIL' id='THE_WESTERN_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE WESTERN TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_14' name='page_14'></a>14</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>And step by step since time began<br />
+I see the steady gain of man.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Whittier.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_15' name='page_15'></a>15</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE WESTERN TRAIL</p>
+<p>&ldquo;An overland highway to the Western
+sea&rdquo; was the thought variously expressed
+by many men in both public and private
+life among the French, English, and Americans
+from very early times. In 1659
+Pierre Radisson and a companion, by way
+of the Great Lakes, Fox, and &ldquo;Ouisconsing&rdquo;
+Rivers, discovered the &ldquo;east fork&rdquo; of the
+&ldquo;Great River&rdquo; and crossed to the &ldquo;west
+fork,&rdquo; up which they went into what is
+now the Dakotas, only to find it going
+still &ldquo;interminably westward.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by
+the same route up the &ldquo;east fork&rdquo; to Saint
+Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada,
+to learn from the Assiniboin Indians
+the existence of the &ldquo;Shining Mountains&rdquo;
+and that beyond them was the &ldquo;Oregan,&rdquo;
+which went to the salt sea.</p>
+<p>As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote
+to George Rogers Clark to tell him he understood
+the English had subscribed a very
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_16' name='page_16'></a>16</span>
+large sum of money for exploration of the
+country west of the Mississippi, and as far
+as California. He even expressed himself as
+being desirous of forming a party of Americans
+to make the trip.</p>
+<p>Twenty years later, under the direction of
+<i>President</i> Thomas Jefferson, General Clark
+was made a member of the Lewis and
+Clark Expedition, which went up the &ldquo;great
+river&rdquo; and ultimately crossed through Montana
+and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?)
+and the &ldquo;salt sea.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Zebulon Pike was turned back by the
+imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806. A
+few years later Captain Bonneville braved
+the plains, the plateaus, the mountain
+passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia.
+Then continuous migrations finally
+fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.</p>
+<p>The Mormons followed this national road
+when they trekked to the valley of Salt
+Lake in 1847&ndash;&ndash;a dolorous path to many.</p>
+<p>Because the Oregon Trail was nature&rsquo;s
+way, man and commerce made it their
+way. Road sites are not like city sites&ndash;&ndash;made
+to order; they are discovered. For
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_17' name='page_17'></a>17</span>
+that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental
+also followed this trail. The Union
+Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and
+their graves. From the mouth of the
+Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains
+and beyond is a continuous cemetery
+of nameless tombs.</p>
+<p>The next few pages will give some
+sketches of fact depicting scenes of sunlight
+and shadow that fell on this highway
+in days not so very long agone.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_19' name='page_19'></a>19</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_LONG_TRAIL' id='THE_LONG_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE LONG TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_20' name='page_20'></a>20</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Those mighty pyramids of stone<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,<br />
+When nearer seen and better known<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Are but gigantic flights of stairs.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_21' name='page_21'></a>21</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE LONG TRAIL</p>
+<p>The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri
+River to the Willamette is a distance
+of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason
+Lee and Marcus Whitman sanctioned its
+use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers
+and adventurers, good and bad, had
+mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped
+passes, where the storm stands
+sentinel and guards the granite ways among
+the rough Rocky Mountains. They had
+followed the falls-filled Snake and the
+calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand
+miles or more among basaltic bastions
+buttressing the mountain sides, or through
+the lava lands where cavernous chasms
+yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.</p>
+<p>In the early forties of the nineteenth
+century restless spirits from Missouri and
+eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_22' name='page_22'></a>22</span>
+West and locate in the land where storms
+seldom come and where the extremes of
+heat and cold are unknown&ndash;&ndash;Willamette
+Valley, Oregon.</p>
+<p>In these early days, a farmer, whom we
+shall name Johnson, with wife and son,
+hoping to better conditions and prolong life,
+thus sought the goal toward the setting sun.
+Starting when the sturdy spring was enlivening
+all nature, they left the malarial
+marshes of the Mississippi Valley, where
+quinine and whisky for &ldquo;fevernagur&rdquo; were
+to be had at every crossroads store, and in a
+couple of weeks found themselves west of
+the muddy Missouri, where the herds of
+humped bison grazed as yet unafraid among
+the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.</p>
+<p>Barring a few common hindrances, they
+went well and reached the higher and
+hotter plains in midsummer; they were out
+of the sight of hills and trees&ndash;&ndash;just one
+weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day
+after day. Mrs. Johnson had not been
+well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she
+began gradually to lose strength.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_23' name='page_23'></a>23</span></div>
+<p>But she was made of the uncomplaining
+material pioneers are wrought of, the ones
+who so lived, loved, and labored that the
+hard-earned sweets of civilization grew to
+highest perfection about their graves, and
+proved the most enduring monument to
+their memory. She never murmured other
+than to ask occasionally: &ldquo;Father, how
+much farther? Isn&rsquo;t it a wonderfully long
+way to Oregon?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Just over that next range of hills, I
+think, from what the trappers told me,&rdquo;
+was the reply, after they had come to the
+toes of the foothills that terminate the
+long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies. But
+he did not know the stealth of the mountains
+nor the fantastic pranks the ca&ntilde;ony
+ranges can play upon the stranger. A
+snowy-haired peak, brother to Father
+Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for
+his neckruff, would play hide-and-seek
+with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of
+that hill, only to reappear apparently as
+far off as ever, and sometimes in a different
+direction from where he last seemed
+to be.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_24' name='page_24'></a>24</span></div>
+<p>After a few more days: &ldquo;Father, how
+many more miles do you think?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;O, not many now, I am sure!&rdquo; cheerily
+and optimistically would come the answer.</p>
+<p>As they climbed, and climbed, and
+climbed, the ripening service-berry, blackened
+by weeks of attention by the unclouded
+sun, and the pine-hen and the
+speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams,
+added to their comforts, and for a
+little while appeared to enliven the tired
+and fading woman. A frosty night or two,
+a peak newly whitened with early snow,
+put an invigorating thrill and pulse into
+the blood of the man and the boy, but she
+crept just a little nearer to the camp fire
+of evenings and found herself more and
+more languid in responding to the call of
+the day that returned all too soon for her.
+At last, rolling out on the Wahsatch side
+of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while
+the nights grew chillier. Having passed to
+the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well
+and faithfully marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in
+recent years, they began to realize that they
+were with the waters that flow to the west.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_25' name='page_25'></a>25</span></div>
+<p>One evening, after the tin plates, iron
+forks and knives, and the pewter spoons
+had been washed and returned to their box,
+and as they were getting ready for their
+nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+&ldquo;Father, it just seems to me I would be
+glad if I never would waken again. It
+seems I would enjoy never again hearing the
+everlasting squeech, squeech of the wheels
+in the sand, and see the sun go down day
+after day so red and so far away over those
+new mountains. O, I am so tired!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Never mind, mother, we are not far
+from our new home now;&rdquo; and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against
+the wagon-tongue, the man slipped his own
+tired arm about her shoulders and let her
+rest against him, for he was indeed weary,
+and the trail <i>was</i> wonderfully long.</p>
+<p>The following morning he purposely lay
+still just a little longer than was his custom,
+although he was most prudently desirous of
+making as much speed as he could while
+the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make
+travel over unmade roads much worse than
+it already was.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_26' name='page_26'></a>26</span></div>
+<p>When he arose he noiselessly crept
+away from her side and quietly called the
+boy to go and bring up the horses and the
+cow, cautioning him to take off the horse-bell
+and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly
+as possible he made the fire and prepared
+their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming
+scantier. Then, when all was ready,
+he tiptoed through the sand to where she
+lay under the spreading arms of a little
+desert juniper, such as are occasionally
+found in the deserts, and where she had
+said the night before she wished she could
+sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed
+like robbery to take from her one moment
+of the longed-for and hard-earned rest.
+Yet it was time they were on their road, and
+the day was fine; so after a few minutes he
+called, gently, &ldquo;Mother, you&rsquo;re getting a
+nice rest, aren&rsquo;t you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She did not stir. He then stooped to
+kiss the languid lips&ndash;&ndash;they were cold. She
+was dead. They had been seeking a home
+by the shores of the sunset sea; she had
+found the sunrise land.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_27' name='page_27'></a>27</span></div>
+<p>It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be
+with our dead, but to be alone, hundreds of
+miles from the face of any friend, in such
+an hour, is an experience few ever have to
+meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans the
+horizon, locating all the prominent features
+of the landscape. He makes a rude map,
+not forgetting the juniper. As best he can
+he prepares the body for the burying. And
+such a burying! No lumber with which to
+make even a rough box; nothing but their
+daily clothing and nightly bedding was to
+be had. The unlined grave was more than
+usually forbidding. The desert demon had
+trailed that brave body and was now swallowing
+it up. They made the grave by the
+juniper where she last slept, and, sorrowing,
+the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not
+always lie in a desert grave.</p>
+<p>Forty years later a man past middle-age,
+riding a horse and leading another, to
+whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went
+slowly along that old trail in Southern
+Idaho, now almost obliterated by many-footed
+Progress. He was scanning the hills
+and consulting a piece of age-yellowed
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_28' name='page_28'></a>28</span>
+paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It
+was the son obeying the dying request of
+the old father&ndash;&ndash;going to find, if possible,
+the spot where the tired mother went to
+sleep so long ago, and bring all that remained
+to rest by his side.</p>
+<p>It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose
+irrigated areas now presented billowy
+breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches
+like younger and better-behaved rivers; a
+railway following the general direction of
+the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks
+indenting the sky-line once so bare
+of all except clumps of sagebrush&ndash;&ndash;these
+all conspired to make the task next to
+impossible.</p>
+<p>Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot
+mar the majesty of the mountains;
+they were unchanged. The map he carried
+was the one his father made on the
+spot more than a generation before. It
+had been well made and the specifications
+were minute. After a long while, carefully
+measuring and comparing, he found the
+spot to him so sacred. The juniper tree,
+so rare in that section, had not been disturbed
+by the new owner of the land, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_29' name='page_29'></a>29</span>
+as the precious burden, secured at last, was
+borne away, it still stood on guard&ndash;&ndash;as if
+lonely now. Like father, like son. Both
+were faithfully bound by the strongest tie
+in the universe&ndash;&ndash;love!</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_31' name='page_31'></a>31</span>
+<a name='THE_DESERT' id='THE_DESERT'></a>
+<h2>THE DESERT</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_32' name='page_32'></a>32</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,<br />
+And waste its sweetness on the desert air.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Gray</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of<br />
+their maps parts of the world which they do not<br />
+know about, adding notes in the margin to the<br />
+effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy<br />
+deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable<br />
+bogs.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Plutarch</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_33' name='page_33'></a>33</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE DESERT</p>
+<p>Much of the Old Overland Trail lay
+across the &ldquo;Great American Desert,&rdquo; as it
+was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation
+and progressive energy have made
+these wastes in many instances literally to
+&ldquo;blossom as the rose&rdquo;; but until that was
+done these stretches were weary enough.</p>
+<p>He who knows only the desert of the
+geography naturally conceives it an absolutely
+forsaken and empty region where
+nothing but dust-storms are born unattended
+and die &ldquo;without benefit of the
+clergy.&rdquo; But the desert has character and
+is as variable as many another creature.</p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>THE SAND STORM</p>
+<p>An experience in an actual sand storm is
+food upon which the reminiscent may ruminate
+many a day, being much more pleasant
+in memory than in the making. First come
+the scurrying outriders, lithe and limber
+whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_34' name='page_34'></a>34</span>
+Moslem dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler
+or boldly flinging fierce fistfuls of dirt
+into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts&ndash;&ndash;vanishing possibly in the
+same direction whence they came. They
+go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes
+disgustedly, for the act was so sudden and
+tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware
+of it other and stronger gusts duplicate the
+dastardly deed of the first wingless wizard
+of the plains, and the hapless voyager is
+left gasping. Almost immediately there are
+to be seen the regular &ldquo;desert devils,&rdquo; as
+they are called, bringing a dozen or more
+whirling columns of yellow silt rapidly
+through the air, each pirouetting on one
+foot, assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic
+shapes.</p>
+<p>Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of
+a blizzard, the shrapnel of the desert is
+hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils;
+little rivers pour down the back and fill
+every discoverable wrinkle and cranny of
+the clothing with their gritty load.</p>
+<p>If in summer, buttoning the clothing is
+suffocation, and the perspiration soon makes
+one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_35' name='page_35'></a>35</span>
+not so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing
+can be made against the sand and the
+cold.</p>
+<p>The whole landscape is obliterated by and
+by, and the trails are so often drift-filled
+that unless one is himself accustomed to
+such methods of travel or has an experienced
+plainsman as his driver and guide, there is
+danger of becoming lost, or so out of the
+way that night may overtake him and
+compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.</p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>TWILIGHT AND DAWN</p>
+<p>But to see the morning slip off its night
+clothes and step out into daylight, or
+watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle
+down into twilight on the quiet sand-ocean!
+In summer it is a scene of splendor, often
+coming after a day or an evening of sandy
+wrath.</p>
+<p>At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon,
+are the soft pencils of bashful day over-topping
+the jagged sawteeth of the yet
+sleeping mountains, fifty or more miles
+away. A faint hinting of the lightening of
+the sky only deepens the blackness of the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_36' name='page_36'></a>36</span>
+snow-streaked peaks. The cowardly coyote&rsquo;s
+yelp comes more and more faintly,
+the burrowing owl&rsquo;s &ldquo;to-whit, to-whoo&rdquo;
+falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up
+as if to catch the early worm he is almost
+sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit
+slips softly to his greasewood shelter and
+the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for
+his day&rsquo;s digging and foraging.</p>
+<p>The stubborn mountains begin to let the
+sun&rsquo;s forerunning rays glide between them;
+the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming
+into kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds,
+while the swift arms of the day-painter are
+reaching from between the peaks of the
+precipitous crags and dyeing the scales of
+the mackerel sky with hues and tints the
+rainbow would covet.</p>
+<p>In the opposite direction a morning
+mirage inverts an image of a stretch of
+trees along the far-away river and blends
+them top to top till they seem greenish-black
+columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers
+through the half-unreal corridors.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_37' name='page_37'></a>37</span></p>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;'>SUNSET</p>
+<p>The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often
+reaches grandeur. Let it be a winter evening.
+A suggestion of storm has been playing
+threats. The western hills have reached
+up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking
+him away in gold-lace tapestry and
+rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black,
+and brown clouds change quickly to purple,
+pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving
+community of interlacing filaments
+of priceless filigree, till in time too full of
+interest to compute by measure, the whole
+heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy of
+color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making
+one think of the descriptions essayed by
+the writer of the Apocalypse.</p>
+<p>We think of Moses who wished to see
+God &ldquo;face to face,&rdquo; but was told he would
+be permitted to behold only the &ldquo;dying
+away of his glory.&rdquo; No wonder the man
+who was forty years in the wilderness before
+that grand exode, and forty more
+through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled
+to write the majestic prose-poems
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_38' name='page_38'></a>38</span>
+that have lived unaltered through all these
+thousands of critical years! He was in
+the region where inspiration is dispensed
+with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_39' name='page_39'></a>39</span></p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='SAGEBRUSH' id='SAGEBRUSH'></a>
+<h2>SAGEBRUSH</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_40' name='page_40'></a>40</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>This is the forest primeval.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bryant</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_41' name='page_41'></a>41</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>SAGEBRUSH</p>
+<p>Frequently within these pages mention
+has been made of the commonest of all our
+native plants on the Trail&ndash;&ndash;sagebrush. Botanically,
+it is, <i>Artemisia tridentata</i>. The
+new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as &ldquo;any one of the various shrubby species
+of Artemisia, of the aster family, growing
+on the elevated plains of the Western
+United States, especially <i>Artemisia tridentata</i>,
+very abundant from Montana to Colorado
+and westward.&rdquo; The leaf ends in
+three points; hence the adjective tridentata&ndash;&ndash;the
+three-toothed artemisia.</p>
+<p>There are several varieties of sagebrush,
+and a person not well acquainted with the
+desert might easily mistake one for the
+other. There are the white sage, a good
+forage plant for sheep, and the yellow sage,
+which, when properly taken, can be made
+useful for cattle. Then there is the common
+variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_42' name='page_42'></a>42</span>
+which infests the more alkaline regions;
+nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom
+so like the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable
+odor. No man who knows will
+ever buy land where the greasewood grows
+thickly; it is unproductive because of the
+large percentage of alkali. But the ancient-looking
+sage is a pretty sure indication of
+fertility of soil. Mother Nature is sometimes
+hard pushed to find dresses for all
+her poorer areas; of course the better portions
+of the land east or west, north or
+south, care for their clothes better than do
+these arid stretches and the clothing is a
+richer vegetation.</p>
+<p>This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched
+pygmy among trees looks about as much
+like an oak as does a diminutive monkey
+like a grown man.</p>
+<p>A peculiarity of this individual in treedom
+is that it keeps its ash-colored leaf
+until it has a new set to put on in the
+spring, so that all winter long it presents
+the same color as it does in the summertime.
+Its bark is loose and shaggy, being
+shed rapidly, and gives one the thought of
+the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_43' name='page_43'></a>43</span>
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It
+is truly the dry-land plant, always found
+where the alkali or water is not too abundant;
+but in favored spots where there is
+only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows
+eight or ten feet high, making a body
+large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary,
+for usually these Liliputian
+forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive
+are these solemn woods that the
+ordinary gang-plow can walk right through
+them, turning the shrubbery under like tall
+grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the
+resourceful Japanese.</p>
+<p>The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff,
+upright filaments like the broom-corn
+straws. These stems are very bitter and
+are often used by the range-riders on long
+rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far
+from water. Because of its bitterness it is
+often called wormwood.</p>
+<p>Not many uses have been found for the
+wood of these primeval forests. In many
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_44' name='page_44'></a>44</span>
+sections the people have nothing but sagebrush
+for firewood. The whole tree is
+used, special stoves, or heaters, being made
+to accommodate the whole plant. It is
+gathered in the following manner: Two
+immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid
+side by side, one inverted, and securely
+fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which
+pulling parallel to each other, are driven
+into the standing fairy forests and the
+swaths of fallen timber show the track of
+this unnatural storm. Its roots have such
+slight hold on the soil that it easily falls.
+Wagons and pitchforks follow, and the
+whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and
+it is all burned, top and root. There is so
+much vegetable oil in this queer plant that
+it makes a fine and very quick fire, green or
+dry.</p>
+<p>After a summer rain there is no aromatic
+perfume surpassing that of the odor of
+sagebrush filling the newly washed air.
+The mountaineer who has had to make a
+trip East gladly opens his window, as his
+train pushes back into the habitat of these
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_45' name='page_45'></a>45</span>
+aromatic shrubs, to get an early whiff of
+the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere
+of the beloved Westland and homeland.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_47' name='page_47'></a>47</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='THE_IRON_TRAIL' id='THE_IRON_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>THE IRON TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_48' name='page_48'></a>48</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>There are hermit souls that live withdrawn<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In their houses of self-content;<br />
+There are souls like stars that dwell apart<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In their fellowless firmament.<br />
+There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Where highways never ran.<br />
+But, let me live by the side of the road<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>And be a friend to man.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Sam Walter Foss.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_49' name='page_49'></a>49</span></div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO' id='A_RAILROAD_SAINT_IN_IDAHO'></a>
+<h2>A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO</h2>
+</div>
+<p>The &ldquo;railroad saint&rdquo; was a locomotive
+engineer. His life was ever an open book,
+yet while careful and almost severe in his
+personal religious habits, he did not criticize
+the manners of his associates. He
+simply let his well kept searchlight shine.</p>
+<p>Though born in Ohio, his boy life was
+spent mainly in Nebraska, when it was
+just emerging from the ragged swaddlings
+of rough frontierdom; and during his young
+manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time
+when men &ldquo;carried the law in their hip-pockets,&rdquo;
+as he graphically expressed it.</p>
+<p>Early becoming an employee of the
+Union Pacific, he was a permanent portion
+of its westward intermountain extension,
+and he did his life&rsquo;s work among the scenic
+cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags
+and corrugated ca&ntilde;ons of the wrinkled
+ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education
+were very limited to one so engaged,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_50' name='page_50'></a>50</span>
+and little more than what was absolutely
+necessary to the railmen did he receive.
+But he was not ignorant by any means.
+In later years he read extendedly and with
+careful discrimination. He had a poet&rsquo;s
+soul, but was not visionary.</p>
+<p>His mother had been a careful and sensible
+Christian. The indelible impress she
+left upon him was like to that given by
+Jochebed to her son Moses. He never
+wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living
+and became a notorious and blatant blasphemer,
+sceptic, and drunkard.</p>
+<p>Once when attending a national convention
+of railway engineers in an Eastern city
+he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting
+to dispose of his roses. Our
+engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+&ldquo;other fellow&rdquo;) paid the lad for all he had
+left and directed him to carry them to the
+hotel where the delegates were stopping,
+and give them to the ladies in the parlor.
+This act was repeated on successive days.
+It attracted attention finally, and one of
+the delegates asked him if he were a Christian.
+Characteristically he blurted out:
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_51' name='page_51'></a>51</span>
+&ldquo;Do you see anything about me that indicates
+it? If so, I will take it off at once.
+Why do you ask such a question?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Because,&rdquo; said the questioner, &ldquo;your
+kindness to that pale-faced little flower
+boy makes people think you are.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Nothing at all queer about that,&rdquo; was
+the quick reply. &ldquo;Common humanity
+should dictate such deeds. If I myself
+wanted a favor, I&rsquo;d not go to any Christian
+for it; I&rsquo;d rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Dr. T&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, of the Methodist
+Church, has heard of you,&rdquo; remarked his
+questioner, &ldquo;and he says he would like to
+meet you for an hour or so before you
+leave the city.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But I&rsquo;ve no desire to meet any preacher,
+though if it will afford the gentleman any
+pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason
+and no other. What do you suppose he
+wants?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The intermediary arranged a time of
+meeting, and after introducing the men,
+left the &ldquo;eagle eye&rdquo; in the pleasant study
+of the minister, a pastor of the Methodist
+Episcopal Church, South. After a few
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_52' name='page_52'></a>52</span>
+minutes of easy conversation, the minister
+abruptly cut all Gordian knots and said:
+&ldquo;Mr.&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, are you a Christian?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, sir, not so you can notice it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why are you not?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Why should I be?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It gives to every one who embraces true
+religion a better, broader, worthier view
+and conception of life.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Wherein, mister?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;It puts purpose into his life and interprets
+the end to which he is tending.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver
+of our Rocky Mountain engineman
+all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments
+of Voltaire, Rousseau, Ingersoll, and
+others whose writings he knew perfectly.</p>
+<p>With Christian and cultivated patience
+the minister listened and then said with
+captivating and sympathetic tenderness:
+&ldquo;But, my dear sir, that is all speculation
+on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They
+know no better. The religion of Jesus is
+not speculation; it is practical knowledge.
+Would not you, sir, like to know personally
+as to its truth?&rdquo;</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_53' name='page_53'></a>53</span></div>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, but how can I?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>His foot had been taken in the snare of
+the wise trapper.</p>
+<p>Said the preacher: &ldquo;You can; and this
+is the way. As you leave this city for
+your return to the West, get a cheap New
+Testament; indeed, here is a copy; please
+accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels&ndash;&ndash;Matthew,
+Mark, Luke, and John. Read them; you
+will by yourself and by this means find
+the way to perfect knowledge.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest
+knowledge, did as directed and advised.</p>
+<p>Back to his cab and engine he went,
+under the deepest conviction. Yet he declared
+that he needed no extraneous assistance
+to be as good as any Christian;
+Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said
+so. The negative influences of the atheistic
+authors yet warped him. He said: &ldquo;I dare
+any of you to watch me. I can and will be
+as upright as any Christian on earth.&rdquo;
+But after a short time of exemplary conduct,
+he would wake up some morning only
+to discover to his hearty disgust that he
+had been on an extended period of dissipation.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_54' name='page_54'></a>54</span>
+Later he would attempt another
+straightening-up and try to &ldquo;be good&rdquo;
+without the necessary becoming so, only to
+fall again and harder than before.</p>
+<p>Once, after such humiliating debauch, he
+entered a saloon which contained the only
+barber shop in the village, the railway
+division point where he had his &ldquo;layovers&rdquo;
+for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after
+pay-day among the employees, and, as he
+stated it to the writer, &ldquo;everybody, even
+the barber, had been drunk.&rdquo; Cigar stumps,
+empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night&rsquo;s carousals covered
+the floor with bacchanalian litter.
+Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was
+taking place on the stage of his perturbed
+soul. His story is this:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;While lying there that morning a voice
+said to me, &lsquo;You are not a square-dealer.&rsquo;
+I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see
+a bloated face with impassive and mute
+lips; he had said nothing, I could easily see.
+I closed my eyes again, only to hear, &lsquo;You
+do not treat me as you would a gentleman.&rsquo;
+I now knew that the voice was that of an
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_55' name='page_55'></a>55</span>
+unseen person, and I replied mentally but
+really. &lsquo;Who are you, and what do you
+want?&rsquo; &lsquo;I am Jesus, whom you deny without
+having known, and condemn without
+having attempted to prove. You have
+been saying all the while you can succeed
+without my assistance, and you know you
+have failed every time. All I want is a
+chance in your life that I may prove myself
+to you.&rsquo; Then I replied, &lsquo;If this is what
+you want, just come in and we will talk it
+over.&rsquo; He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room
+and, locking the door, took out of a little
+old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother
+had given me; it had lain there for thirty
+long years untouched. I opened it and
+read a while and then got down on my
+knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: &lsquo;Lord, if it is really the Lord
+who was talking to me (I have my doubts),
+you know I am a man of my word, and you
+can trust me. I want to make you a
+proposition: I&rsquo;ll do the square thing by
+you if you&rsquo;ll do the same by me.
+Amen!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;was the beginning of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_56' name='page_56'></a>56</span>
+the struggle for rest to my soul; and I
+found it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>An incident leading to his immediate,
+possibly ultimate safety, was a conversation
+in a saloon. It does not always
+transpire that we are benefited by the act
+of the talebearer, but in this case it was
+highly salutary. One of his engineer friends,
+drinking at the bar, said: &ldquo;Never fear
+about H&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;. He will soon get over all
+this and be along with us as usual.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Hearing it, he became very righteously
+indignant and said: &ldquo;By the grace of God,
+never! I&rsquo;ll go up to the church my wife
+attends and join with her, and when they
+know I am a church member they&rsquo;ll let
+me alone.&rdquo; He did so at once. He was
+saved. He lived for many years, always
+happy, always helpful, and without fear
+he ascended the snowy hills of old age,
+with their enveloping mists.</p>
+<p>Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he
+lingered long, ever cheerful, and interested
+in his friends, to whom he sent many messages.
+To his brothers of the Odd Fellows
+he sent this message: &ldquo;Boys, I&rsquo;ll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_57' name='page_57'></a>57</span>
+Christmas Eve, who with stocking hung up,
+is anxious for daylight. The shadows have
+come over me. My stocking is hung up
+by the Father&rsquo;s fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven&rsquo;t the
+remotest idea what I will get, but I am
+sure it will be something good.&rdquo; A few
+days before his translation he was visited
+by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: &ldquo;H&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, you are now up
+against the real thing, according to your
+belief; and it looks to us the same, just as
+if you would have to go some one of these
+days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Looking at the questioner lovingly, the
+dying man said, &ldquo;Charley, you&rsquo;ve worked
+for the railway company a long time, and
+never had many promotions, have you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes, about twenty years&ndash;&ndash;and no promotions.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Charley, suppose there&rsquo;d come to
+you to-day a wire from headquarters saying
+there&rsquo;s a big promotion waiting for you on
+your arrival, and at the same time a pass
+for your free transportation. How do
+you think that would seem to you?&rdquo;</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_58' name='page_58'></a>58</span></div>
+<p>&ldquo;My soul, but that&rsquo;d be fine,&rdquo; said he.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Charley, that&rsquo;s just my case exactly,&rdquo;
+said the radiant man. &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve been
+working for God and his company for about
+that same length of time and never had
+much promotion so far as I could see, and
+now I have a summons direct from the
+glory land telling me there&rsquo;s a big advancement
+for me, and it sounds mighty
+good.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He was dressed for the wedding, the
+Christmas morning, or whatever awaited
+him, and was anxious that the couriers of
+the King should come. When the moment
+came the old engineer&rsquo;s headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green,
+and when he called for the last board at
+the home station the signal came back:
+&ldquo;All&rsquo;s well; come on in.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He had received his coveted promotion.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_59' name='page_59'></a>59</span>
+<a name='AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS' id='AN_UNUSUAL_KINDNESS'></a>
+<h2>AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>That best portion of a good man&rsquo;s life&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+His little, nameless, unremembered acts<br />
+Of kindness and of love.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;Wordsworth.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>The Methodist locomotive engineer had
+died joyful. &ldquo;I am so glad to go,&rdquo; he
+said. &ldquo;I am like a boy when there&rsquo;s a
+circus in town; I&rsquo;ve got the price, and my
+baggage is checked clear through.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I was holding a memorial service for him
+in his old home town, and at the close a
+big, broad-shouldered man came forward to
+the altar rail and quietly said, &ldquo;You did
+not know that man.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The remark startled me a little, for I
+had been acquainted with him for many
+years; in fact, had once been his pastor.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I thought I did,&rdquo; replied I.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, you never really knew him,&rdquo; was
+the insistent rejoinder; &ldquo;let me tell you
+something about him. Years ago I was
+not living as I ought, and I had all sorts of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_60' name='page_60'></a>60</span>
+trouble. My wife was very sick, and we
+were living in a bit of a shack back here a
+little way where she finally died. I was
+down and out. The fellows wanted to be
+good to me, and they were&ndash;&ndash;in their way
+of thinking&ndash;&ndash;but it did me no good. They
+would say, &lsquo;Come, brace up, old fellow,
+have a drink and forget your troubles.&rsquo;
+But there are some troubles drink will not
+drown; mine was one of them.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;One night our friend came up to my
+shack, and having visited a while he said:
+&lsquo;Old man, you&rsquo;re up against it hard, ain&rsquo;t
+you?&rsquo; I replied, &lsquo;Yes, I am, just up to the
+limit.&rsquo; &lsquo;Well, let&rsquo;s pray about it.&rsquo; I told
+him I didn&rsquo;t believe in prayer. &lsquo;All right,&rsquo;
+said he, &lsquo;I do, and I&rsquo;ll pray any way.&rsquo; You
+should have heard the prayer he made. It
+was about like this: &lsquo;God, here&rsquo;s my friend,
+Charley; he&rsquo;s in an awful fix. We&rsquo;ll have
+to do something for him. I&rsquo;ve done all I
+can; now, it&rsquo;s up to you to see him through.
+Amen.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then he arose from his knees and,
+handing me his check book, he said, &lsquo;My
+wife and I ain&rsquo;t got much, only a couple o&rsquo;
+thousand in the bank; but here&rsquo;s this
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_61' name='page_61'></a>61</span>
+check book all signed up; take it and use
+it all if you need it, and God bless you!&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But,&rdquo; added the narrator of the story,
+&ldquo;I couldn&rsquo;t use money like that.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The tears were fast falling over his
+bronzed cheeks as he told with tenderness
+the story, and as I looked into his eyes I
+knew that through knowledge of the dead
+engineer&rsquo;s kingly kindness had come to him
+the knowledge of the new life.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_63' name='page_63'></a>63</span>
+<a name='INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL' id='INDIANS_OF_THE_TRAIL'></a>
+<h2>INDIANS OF THE TRAIL</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_64' name='page_64'></a>64</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Man&rsquo;s inhumanity to man<br />
+Makes countless thousands mourn.<br />
+&ndash;&ndash;<i>Burns</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_2' id='linki_2'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/p0064a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='332' height='497' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_65' name='page_65'></a>65</span>
+<a name='INTRODUCTORY_WORDS' id='INTRODUCTORY_WORDS'></a>
+<h2>INTRODUCTORY WORDS</h2>
+</div>
+<p>Indian character is human character because
+the Indian is human. Being human
+he is susceptible to all human teaching and
+experiences. None yields more readily to
+love and kindness.</p>
+<p>Few can speak of the Indian with absolute
+propriety, for very few know him.
+To the mind of most Americans, I venture
+to say, the very name &ldquo;Indian&rdquo; suggests
+scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds
+and an interminable list of kindred horrors;
+all too true. But it must be remembered
+that the Indian presented to his first discoverers
+a race most tractable, tenderhearted,
+and responsive to kindness. He
+was indeed the child of the plain, but a
+loving child.</p>
+<p>The chevaliers both of Spanish and English
+blood taught him in the most practical
+manner the varied refinements of deceit,
+treachery, and cruelty. He was an apt
+scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_66' name='page_66'></a>66</span>
+which has here so striking an example,
+cannot curse the redman if the sins of the
+fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.</p>
+<p>Under definite heads I am giving some
+very brief sketches of living, down-to-date
+aborigines, such as have come under my
+own observation in Utah and Idaho.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_67' name='page_67'></a>67</span>
+<a name='POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF' id='POCATELLO_THE_CHIEF'></a>
+<h2>POCATELLO, THE CHIEF</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The nodding horror of whose shady brows<br />
+Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Milton</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced
+a large territory of which Pocatello
+was the center. These Idaho red people
+are the remnants of the once powerful
+tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones,
+which ranged from the Blue Mountains in
+Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes
+used by the aggressive white people have
+encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their
+borders so that now they are centered at
+Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a
+school for them, and the Protestant Episcopal
+Church a mission.</p>
+<p>Pocatello is named for a wily old chief
+of that name, who became an outlaw to
+be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade
+of his sanguinary followers against the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_68' name='page_68'></a>68</span>
+newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne,
+Utah; but a Mormon who had been notified
+of the proposed massacre, by a coreligionist,
+likewise told a friend among the Gentiles,
+and a precautionary counter plan was formulated.
+Nothing more came of it than
+an evening visit from Brigham Young and
+his staff, who, as reported, pronounced and
+prophesied an awful and exterminating
+curse upon the town and people. However,
+because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.</p>
+<p>Until recently there lived in the region
+of the city of Pocatello an old squaw-man
+(white man with an Indian wife). His
+home was within the borders of the reservation,
+and he had been there since before
+the time when the boundary line between
+the United States and England (Canada)
+was settled. The old man was called
+&ldquo;Doc,&rdquo; and once when visiting him I said,
+&ldquo;Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and
+what became of him.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The old man, half reclining on the pile
+of household debris in one corner of his
+shanty, permitted me to sit by the door&ndash;&ndash;for
+there were no chairs in the place. The
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_69' name='page_69'></a>69</span>
+four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for
+range work; in another the accumulation of
+rags and blankets on which he slept (for he
+lived alone now, the wife being dead); in
+another was his little stove, and the last
+held the door where I sat. The air was
+fresher there, I thought. The veteran of
+eighty or more years, bronzed by the
+winds and roughened by the sweeping
+sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: &ldquo;It war in the days o&rsquo; them freighters
+who operated &rsquo;tween Corinne an&rsquo; Virginny
+City when Alder Gulch was a-goin&rsquo; chock
+full o&rsquo; business. The Forwardin&rsquo; Company
+hed a mighty big lot o&rsquo; rollin&rsquo; stock an&rsquo;
+hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull
+kentry was Injun from put-ni&rsquo; Corinne to
+that there Montanny town. The Bear
+Rivers an&rsquo; the Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks
+an&rsquo; the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o&rsquo;-July picnic fer
+them fellers an&rsquo; their drivers. Right h&rsquo;yur
+was the natterelest campin&rsquo; place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer
+the stage-station, where they could git the
+stock fresh an&rsquo; new an&rsquo; go on, as they hed
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_70' name='page_70'></a>70</span>
+to do, night an&rsquo; day, so&rsquo;s to keep business
+a-movin&rsquo;, ye see. Fer &rsquo;twas a mighty long
+rout fer passengers.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Now, Pocatello an&rsquo; his bunch o&rsquo; red
+devils got into the habit o&rsquo; runnin&rsquo; off the
+stock, an&rsquo; sometimes the Company&rsquo;d haf to
+wait half a day to git enough teams to go
+on north; or to wait till the fagged ones&rsquo;d
+git a little rest an&rsquo; then push on wi&rsquo; the
+same ones. Mr. Salisbury, of Salt Lake,
+was the head o&rsquo; the Forwardin&rsquo; Company,
+an&rsquo; he an&rsquo; his people got mighty all-fired
+tired o&rsquo; that sort o&rsquo; business. Hosses was
+dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so
+he told a lot o&rsquo; us&rsquo;ns he&rsquo;d like tarnation
+well if this sort o&rsquo; thing&rsquo;d stop kind o&rsquo;
+sudden like; an&rsquo; we planned it might be
+done jist that way too.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We kind o&rsquo; laid low, an&rsquo; nothin&rsquo; happened
+fer quite a while; but one night a
+fine bunch o&rsquo; hosses was run off jist when
+they&rsquo;s a big lot o&rsquo; treasure goin&rsquo; over the
+line, an&rsquo; the management was sure mad.
+They told us &rsquo;uns agin somethin&rsquo; had to be
+done, an&rsquo; despert quick this time. So we
+got busy. We begun to round ol&rsquo; Pocatello
+up, an&rsquo; he seemed to smell a rat or somethin&rsquo;
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_71' name='page_71'></a>71</span>
+wuss, an&rsquo; started up Pocatello Crick
+yander, that there ca&ntilde;on, see? He went
+almighty fast too when he got started; so
+did we, now I tell you, an&rsquo; we jist kep&rsquo;
+a-foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, an&rsquo; foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, an&rsquo; foller&rsquo;n&rsquo;, we did&ndash;&ndash;a
+hull lot ov us&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo;&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo;&ndash;&ndash;an&rsquo; Pocatello
+never come back.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then the old squaw-man tapped the
+ashes from his pipe, and rising said, &ldquo;Well,
+I guess I&rsquo;ll cinch up the cayuse an&rsquo; ride
+some this a&rsquo;ternoon.&rdquo;</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_72' name='page_72'></a>72</span>
+<a name='THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER' id='THE_BABYLESS_MOTHER'></a>
+<h2>THE BABYLESS MOTHER</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Rachel weeping for her children, and would not
+be comforted, because they are not.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Saint Matthew</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>One of the many signs that the Indian is
+human is his slowness to learn. Ever since
+1492 the whiter man has been trying to force
+some supposedly useful things into the mind
+of him of the darker skin. One of these is
+that he of the blanket has no rights that he
+of the dress coat is bound to respect. The
+Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words,
+but the rifle and the scalping-knife. The
+whiter man demurs when he receives
+his justice dished up to him in redskin
+style.</p>
+<p>It is unreasonable to the Indian that the
+white man should take from him his hunting
+grounds and limit his access to the very
+streams whence his people for ages uncountable
+filled their pantries for the winter.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_73' name='page_73'></a>73</span>
+He has learned to his disgust (without
+place for repentance) that equivalents are
+equivocations, and that the little baubles
+the fathers of the tribes had for their
+broad acres were mostly worthless. The
+civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign
+manual known as signature had fastened on
+them the gyves of perpetual poverty.</p>
+<p>In addition to this, the nation demanded
+they should send their children to the
+white man&rsquo;s school in the far, far away
+Eastern land, where they could not see
+them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that
+dread disease, pulmonary tuberculosis. But
+they were only Indians, and what rights
+had they? When boys and girls were not
+promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not
+seem good to us to have big, brawny
+Indians on horseback give chase to our
+children, and catch and tie them like so
+many hogs, to be carted off to a land
+unknown to us; but then these are only
+Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.</p>
+<p>Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_74' name='page_74'></a>74</span>
+went on their usual trip to the edge of
+Yellowstone Park&ndash;&ndash;Jackson&rsquo;s Hole&ndash;&ndash;for the
+purpose of laying in their annual supply of
+elk and bear meat. The government had
+forbidden this, yet they went, with their
+indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses,
+of course) to dress and care for whatever
+of provision fell into their hands.</p>
+<p>When it was discovered that the Indians
+had gone in the face of the prohibitory
+order the soldiers were sent to drive them
+out. Such racing and chasing! &ldquo;Wild
+horse, wild Indian, wild horseman,&rdquo; as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man
+and woman for himself now. Papooses
+were slung on the saddle-horns of their
+mothers&rsquo; horses, a loop being fastened to
+the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of
+the hard flights through the thickly fallen
+and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral
+a mother, pressed too hard by the soldiers
+and cavalry, lost her baby.</p>
+<p>Her tribal friends ventured back after all
+was safe, and with an Indian&rsquo;s trail-finding
+tact hunted high and low, far and wide,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_75' name='page_75'></a>75</span>
+but no trace was ever found of the wee
+baby.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But, then, what mattered it? It was
+nothing but an Indian baby, and its mother
+only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a
+squaw any way?&rdquo;</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_76' name='page_76'></a>76</span>
+<a name='MARY_MUSKRAT' id='MARY_MUSKRAT'></a>
+<h2>MARY MUSKRAT</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and
+the greatest of these is love.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Saint Paul</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>When the &ldquo;teacher&rdquo; first went among
+the Indians at Fort Hall her reception
+was neither cordial nor cold, for she was
+not received at all. She had not been invited
+and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort
+she could often hear in the nighttime the
+movement of a moccasin, as some tired
+Indian spy changed his cramped position,
+for she was religiously watched and irreligiously
+suspected. They could not understand
+why she, an unmarried white woman,
+should leave her home and spend time
+among them.</p>
+<p>The braves strode by her in sullen silence,
+eloquently impressing their contumelious
+hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who
+observe everything and see nothing, disdainfully
+covered their faces with their
+blankets or looked in silence in the opposite
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_77' name='page_77'></a>77</span>
+direction when the teacher met them or
+lifted the tent-flap.</p>
+<p>After a long time she won her way with
+some of the wee ones, and thus touched
+the hearts of the mothers, through whom
+she made a road broad and wide into the
+affections of the tribe. They trusted her
+with the secrets of the people, and she was
+at home in every teepee in the reservation.
+Gathering the girls together, she taught
+them the beautiful words of the Bible, and
+for many years she lived, loved, and labored
+there.</p>
+<p>Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock
+girls in the mission school. The little
+shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of
+the desert had been toilsomely but surely
+trained by the teacher, that bravest of
+little women.</p>
+<p>Pulmonary consumption is the bane of
+the civilized Indians. It carries them off
+in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living,
+it seems that few, if any, ever recover from
+an attack. The dread disease had fastened
+itself upon Mary and she was sick unto
+death. Her little shack was no fit place
+for a living person, and here was one
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_78' name='page_78'></a>78</span>
+dying. Frequent visits from her teacher
+afforded the dying maiden her only relief.
+Once, after watching her through a severe
+paroxysm of coughing, it seemed that life
+had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a
+pillow, and lowering the head, the devoted
+teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless
+form. But she saw the lips moving, and,
+bending low, she heard the dying girl whisper,
+&ldquo;What time I am afraid I will trust in
+Thee.&rdquo; Continuing, she breathed out, &ldquo;The
+Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want....
+Yea, though I walk through the valley
+and the shadow of death, I will fear no evil.&rdquo;
+Pausing, while the heart of the white
+woman was praising God for his goodness
+to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful
+eyes, and, seeing her protectress and
+benefactress standing there, said, &ldquo;O, dear
+teacher, the Lord is my shepherd.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then the Shepherd came and took her
+to dwell in the house of the Lord forever.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_79' name='page_79'></a>79</span>
+<a name='BAD_BEN' id='BAD_BEN'></a>
+<h2>BAD BEN</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>A little child shall lead them.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Ben&rsquo;s daughter, Mary<a name='FNanchor_0001' id='FNanchor_0001'></a><a href='#Footnote_0001' class='fnanchor'>[1]</a>, was the delight
+of the old man&rsquo;s heart. She had been
+taken most unwillingly, so far as both
+were concerned, and placed in one of the
+Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben
+had objected strenuously, but the stronger
+arm prevailed.</p>
+<p>The teacher at the mission had never in
+all her many years in that place felt fear
+until after Mary was taken away. When
+the father would come to the school to
+ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;bad
+heart&rdquo; he called it. The little woman who
+had won the hearts of the people did not
+know what the enraged man might do or
+when he would do it. Once, after many
+such terrifying visits, he volunteered the
+information that he was making him a
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_80' name='page_80'></a>80</span>
+house and a farm &ldquo;all same witee man.&rdquo;
+He had built it of some railroad ties he had
+found and had begun to cultivate a garden
+and cut some wild hay. &ldquo;Me makee heap
+good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary
+he all same witee squaw, by &rsquo;um by.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The white plague is the only disease the
+Indian fears or calls sickness. Once, when
+Ben went to the school where a dozen or so
+other happy-faced little girls were being
+taught and prepared for the Eastern school,
+Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; was obliged to tell him Mary
+was sick. For a while his savagery was
+apparently renewed. He became wild again.
+His visits increased in frequency, and all
+the time the teacher was in mental torture,
+for he seemed to feel that the white woman
+was in some manner connected with his
+child&rsquo;s going away and her present condition.</p>
+<p>The dread day came when she must tell
+the loving father that there was now no
+hope for his &ldquo;lil&rsquo; gal,&rdquo; as he affectionately
+called her. Then another more dreaded day
+rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried
+in the far east. Poor old father! He could
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_81' name='page_81'></a>81</span>
+not even see her then. How could he be
+made to understand?</p>
+<p>The only solution of the problem was the
+holding of a memorial service for her. One
+of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold
+such a service at the Agency and Ben was
+present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, &ldquo;no have bad heart,&rdquo; he
+would see his Mary again. No one could
+tell to what extent this message found place
+in his mind until later. One day he was
+seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; met
+him at the door. On entering he said, &ldquo;O,
+Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, bad Injun no liky me have hay,
+no liky me have wikiup all same witee man.
+Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup, all
+me hay, all me everyt&rsquo;ing. But me no
+have bad heart [that means, &ldquo;I do not hate
+them&rdquo;], me no have bad heart, Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;;
+me no have bad heart; me want see my lil&rsquo;
+gal some day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So the lonesome man went away to his
+one-time home to try to live among the
+unchristian and unprogressive Indians without
+having any hatred toward them, for he
+wanted to meet his Mary.</p>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0001' id='Footnote_0001'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0001'><span class='label'>[1]</span></a>
+<p>Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_82' name='page_82'></a>82</span>
+<a name='A_THREECORNERED_SERMON' id='A_THREECORNERED_SERMON'></a>
+<h2>A THREE-CORNERED SERMON</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my
+mouth: it shall not return unto me void, but it
+shall accomplish that which I please, and it shall
+prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Thy word, Almighty Lord,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Where&rsquo;er it enters in<br />
+Is sharper than a two-edged sword<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>To slay the man of sin.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Montgomery</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever
+been in vogue among the aborigines of
+many lands. The interior tribes of Africa
+have it and use it to perfection. The
+plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which
+cause much wonderment to the white man.</p>
+<p>In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress
+among all the Indians of the United States.
+All Indiandom was excited to the highest
+degree. Disturbances among them were
+watched and feared by the government.
+The Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_83' name='page_83'></a>83</span>
+were nerved to a high tension and quickly
+athrill to any new movement. Hearing that
+an unusual interest was being displayed
+among the Nez Perces of the north, a
+committee of the Fort Hall men was sent
+to ascertain what it was. It proved to be
+a revival of religion conducted by the
+Presbyterians. The committee was composed
+of heathens, but they saw, were
+conquered, and came home reporting it
+was good, and requested that there be
+similar meetings held among them. It was
+so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant
+evangelist.</p>
+<p>The various Protestant churches in Pocatello
+had been by turns supplying preaching
+to the people of Fort Hall&rsquo;s tribes, and to
+the whites who were the residents at Ross
+Fork, the seat of the Agency. On the
+particular evening when the special meetings
+were to begin it was the turn of the
+writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays,
+a full-blood Nez Perce, was there as evangelist.
+But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized
+dialect. He had been educated in English
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_84' name='page_84'></a>84</span>
+and could understand me so as to interpret,
+rather translate into Nez Perce, but who
+could reach the people to whom we had
+the message? There was present a renegade
+fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or chief Pat),
+<i>not an Irishman</i>. He was a Shoshone who
+years before had gone to live among the
+Nez Perces and had married a woman of
+them. He could interpret Hays, but could
+he be trusted? He was a very heathenish
+heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss
+Frost, consulted with Mr. Hays and myself
+as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play
+interpreter for the momentous occasion;
+after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God&rsquo;s leading.
+Pat, the heathen, was chosen. It was a
+queer audience. There were some whites,
+some Indians. It was odd to see Gun, the
+Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the
+tribal judge; and Hubert Tetoby, the assistant
+blacksmith, as well as others of
+local importance. To add to the excitement
+of the evening, it was the night before
+ration day at the Agency, when all the
+Indians from the entire Reservation were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_85' name='page_85'></a>85</span>
+present&ndash;&ndash;fifteen hundred of them&ndash;&ndash;for their
+share. It was a wild time&ndash;&ndash;the raw
+blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The
+unprotected young woman had no security
+from him. Indeed, while we were gathering
+in the mission house for this service, I
+noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young
+widow, who had scuttled in silent as a
+partridge and was snuggling down on the
+floor just back of my feet, successful in
+getting away from some red Lothario who
+had pursued her to the door.</p>
+<p>The service began. I preached from the
+words of Martha to Mary, &ldquo;The Master is
+come and is calling for thee.&rdquo; It was an
+attempt to show that Jesus needs us as
+living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays,
+I suppose, and always have believed, translated
+to Pat in Nez Perce what I said.
+Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled
+band of mixed Indians. To be sure, I
+understood not a thing either said: but
+when I looked at the earnest, love-ridden,
+and sweat-covered face of the yearning Nez
+Perce, I believed that what he was saying
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_86' name='page_86'></a>86</span>
+was all I said and more. And Pat&ndash;&ndash;he was
+a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself
+at all. He is about six feet six in his moccasins,
+and those long arms accompanied
+the lengthy guttural expressions in an intensely
+effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was
+asked, &ldquo;How many of you from this time
+forward are willing to follow Jesus and be
+known as his assistants?&rdquo; Among the most
+prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy
+George, <i>and Pat Tyhee, the heathen interpreter</i>.
+Looking me straight in the eyes,
+swerving neither to the one side nor the
+other, these madly-in-earnest men of the
+mountains held their hands up high as
+they could reach them. And in six weeks
+from that date there was a Presbyterian
+church there composed of sixty-five members,
+of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was
+made one of the elders. There had been
+no Christians there at all before those
+meetings. It was an Indian Pentecost.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_87' name='page_87'></a>87</span>
+<a name='THREE_YEARS_AFTER' id='THREE_YEARS_AFTER'></a>
+<h2>THREE YEARS AFTER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Father of all! in every age,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In every clime adored,<br />
+By saint, by savage, and by sage,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Alexander Pope</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Some hypercritical person, and possibly
+some sincere soul, may ask: &ldquo;Did such
+revival do any permanent good? Does not
+the so-near savage easily backslide?&rdquo; To
+this may be given this partial reply: It
+depends somewhat on the sort of white
+folks there are in the immediate vicinity.
+As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale
+face has been the great undoer of the
+red man. &ldquo;Civilization&rdquo; in some garbs is
+worse than savagery. The white skin has
+been the password for some awful systems
+of debauchery among the aborigines of
+America. An Indian speaker, and chief of
+police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World&rsquo;s Christian
+Citizenship Conference in Portland,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_88' name='page_88'></a>88</span>
+1913: &ldquo;Before the white man came the
+Indian had no jails or locks on their doors.
+The white man brought whisky; there is
+now need of both jails and locks.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>About three years after the meeting at
+Fort Hall, where the three-cornered sermon
+was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit
+to the West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent
+of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told the
+fourteen hundred red natives that if they
+would turn out in their handsomest manner,
+he would give them all a &ldquo;big eat&rdquo;
+after the visit. Promptly on the day designated
+the famous rough rider and the
+desert riders were in evidence, the latter
+in abundance. They went far out along
+the railway to meet the train, and then
+galloped their wiry, pintoed ponies along
+by the side of the car, performing many
+feats of daring horsemanship, throwing
+themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other
+stunts which they invented. After the
+&ldquo;pageant had fled&rdquo; the expectant and
+hungry Indians were herded into a large
+vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_89' name='page_89'></a>89</span>
+I was anxious to see them, and so were
+many other equally bold and possibly a
+wee bit impolite people, for when they
+had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.</p>
+<p>The Young Men&rsquo;s Christian Association
+secretary and I overlooked the scene from
+a hotel whose wall formed one side of the
+enclosure where the long tables of loose
+planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle,
+and confusion, not much unlike what everyone
+has witnessed at the ordinary picnic.</p>
+<p>The Christians and the non-Christians
+had divided as though not of the same
+tribe or blood. These had their tables on
+one side, those on the opposite. When all
+was ready the savage part of the divided
+company fell to with vim, vigor, and haste,
+just as white people often do at outdoor
+dinners; but see the others! After all had
+been carefully spread, odorous cans of
+tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A
+low word of attention was given by some
+one; every head was bowed, quiet was
+absolute, and Billy George in guttural tones
+said something the Lord of all could understand.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_90' name='page_90'></a>90</span>
+When he was through these also
+fell to with an unmistakable zest and the
+day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.</p>
+<p>This Billy George was crippled by the
+bullets of some of the reservation Indians
+who did not like his progressive ways. He
+had lost one leg for this reason. One night,
+as he was fastening up his animals, he
+stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral.
+Just as he raised himself, a shot that was
+doubtless meant for his lowered head struck
+his leg and it had to be amputated.</p>
+<p>On the night of his conversion, when he
+had raised his hand high as he could reach,
+he in the after meeting mimicked the white
+folks who had slowly and with many side-lookings
+so slightly moved their hands upward.
+He said, &ldquo;Huh, white folks heap
+scared, do this way;&rdquo; and he imitated them
+grotesquely.</p>
+<p>Often when leaving his teepee for the hills
+in order to haul his winter wood, he would
+go to the home of Miss F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away,
+and at the same time asking her to be sure
+to care for his squaw and papooses if he
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_91' name='page_91'></a>91</span>
+did not return; for, said he, &ldquo;Bad Injun
+ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy
+me liky whity man.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So fair of mind was he, and so humanely
+progressive, that the government had chosen
+him as one of the men before whom petty
+cases among the tribe were taken. If he
+could not solve the problems, they were
+then carried to the Agent; then on up if
+not there adjusted.</p>
+<p>When the Presbyterian Missionary Board
+assisted these Christians to build a neat
+house of worship it was, and still is, known
+far and near as Billy George&rsquo;s Church.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_92' name='page_92'></a>92</span>
+<a name='CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA' id='CHIEF_JOSEPH_AND_HIS_LOST_WALLOWA'></a>
+<h2>CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Land where my fathers died.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Smith</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>A Cornishman was once asked why there
+were no public houses (saloons) in his town.
+He replied, &ldquo;Once a man by the name of
+John Wesley preached here, and there have
+been none since.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Once a man by the name of General
+O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country
+has not been the same since. The occasion
+was the uprising of the Nez Perces
+Indians in 1877. Ridpath, the historian,
+tells of the long chase of the red men and
+the weary pursuit of &ldquo;sixteen hundred
+miles.&rdquo; It was truly a Fabian retreat on
+the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but
+General Howard was dealing mercifully with
+them; at a dozen places he could have given
+battle, but he spared the useless slaughter,
+avoiding the needless scaring of the white
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_93' name='page_93'></a>93</span>
+settlers and the complement of dire scenes
+and death that would necessarily follow.</p>
+<p>The story of Chief Joseph is one of the
+most interesting unwritten chapters in the
+history of the great Northwest. The fact
+of the capture of this wily Indian leader
+with most of his band is well known. They
+were banished from the Alpine regions of
+eastern Oregon and compelled to make
+their home across the marble ca&ntilde;on of the
+Snake in the State of Idaho, far from their
+loved Wallowa.</p>
+<p>The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name)
+is one of the most beautiful spots imaginable.
+At its southern end stand pillared
+peaks, eternally snow-crowned, rivaling the
+finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the
+busy town of Joseph, so named in honor of
+the great chieftain. This emerald valley
+nestles in the lap of the Blue Mountains,
+and was from time immemorial the favorite
+home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville
+passed through that remote region in
+the early thirties they were in the enjoyment
+of that valley and the rugged recesses
+of the Imnaha between Oregon and Walla
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_94' name='page_94'></a>94</span>
+Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and
+others possibly peculiar to the place were
+found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and
+the hovering hills furnished flesh of deer
+and bear.</p>
+<p>At a point in the valley twenty miles
+north of the lake, Old Joseph, father of the
+more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered
+grave is to be seen by the roadside
+to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the
+heart of the younger man.</p>
+<p>Not long before his death, accompanied
+by guards, Chief Joseph was taken into the
+valley on some sort of errand, and was
+thus permitted to see again the enchanting
+beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the
+great opaline pool which reflected the
+sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he
+looked upon the surrounding glen, the ancient
+game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their
+timber-covered sides up to the very sky!
+His bursting heart cried out, &ldquo;I have but
+one thing to ask for from the White Father:
+Give me this lake and the land around it,
+and some few acres surrounding the grave
+of my father.&rdquo;</p>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_3' id='linki_3'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/p0094a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='517' height='352' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+WALLOWA LAKE<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_95' name='page_95'></a>95</span></div>
+<p>The white man&rsquo;s ax had cleared the
+timber about the old man&rsquo;s grave; the
+white man&rsquo;s plow might menace the sacred
+sod above the mute dust of his honored
+sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed
+by love&ndash;&ndash;his own father&rsquo;s grave. But
+his plea was denied. He was not permitted
+to have what in all reason seemed his very
+own.</p>
+<p>He was now an old man, with eyes that
+had never shed tears, a soul that was unacquainted
+with fear, and a heart that had
+never weakened in the presence of danger.
+But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his
+soul sank, his heart broke.</p>
+<p>Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many
+years since, wailing out the one great desire
+of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood
+and the graves of his sires.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_96' name='page_96'></a>96</span>
+<a name='THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK' id='THE_WHITE_MANS_BOOK'></a>
+<h2>THE WHITE MAN&rsquo;S BOOK</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The book&ndash;&ndash;this holy book, on every line<br />
+Mark&rsquo;d with the seal of high divinity,<br />
+On every leaf bedew&rsquo;d with drops of love<br />
+Divine, and with the eternal heraldry<br />
+And signature of God Almighty stampt<br />
+From first to last&ndash;&ndash;this ray of sacred light,<br />
+This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,<br />
+Mercy took down, and, in the night of time<br />
+Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;<br />
+And evermore beseeching men, with tears<br />
+And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;<br />
+And many to her voice gave ear, and read,<br />
+Believed, obey&rsquo;d.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pollok.</i></p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Having heard the early explorers speak
+of God, the Bible, and religion, and knowing
+that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to
+know more about these things, and two
+chiefs, Hee-oh&rsquo;ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H&rsquo;co-a-h&rsquo;co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head)
+set out to find the
+white missionaries who could inform their
+troubled minds. They did not reach Saint
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_97' name='page_97'></a>97</span>
+Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers
+were of the Nez Perce tribe. General
+Clark took them to the cathedral and
+showed them the pictures of the saints and
+entertained them in the best and most approved
+Christian style; but they were heart-hungry
+and went home dissatisfied. One of
+them made the following speech to the
+kindly soldier, General Clark:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I came to you over a trail of many
+moons from the setting sun. You were the
+friend of my fathers who have all gone the
+long way. I came with one eye partly
+opened, for more light for my people who
+sit in darkness. I go back with both eyes
+closed. How can I go back with both eyes
+closed? How can I go back blind to my
+blind people? I made my way to you with
+strong arms, through many enemies and
+strange lands, that I might carry much
+back to them. I go back with both arms
+broken and empty. The two fathers who
+came with us&ndash;&ndash;the braves of many winters
+and wars&ndash;&ndash;we leave asleep by your great
+water and wigwam.<a name='FNanchor_0002' id='FNanchor_0002'></a><a href='#Footnote_0002' class='fnanchor'>[2]</a> They were tired in
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_98' name='page_98'></a>98</span>
+many moons, and their moccasins wore out.
+My people sent me to get the white man&rsquo;s
+Book of heaven. You took me where you
+allow your women to dance, as we do not
+ours, and the Book was not there; you
+showed me the images of the good spirits
+and the pictures of the good land beyond,
+but the Book was not among them to tell
+us the way. I am going back the long, sad
+trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of
+gifts, and my moccasins will grow old in
+carrying them, but the Book is not among
+them. When I tell my poor, blind people,
+after one more snow, in the big council,
+that I did not bring the Book, no word
+will be spoken by our old men or our young
+braves. One by one they will rise up and
+go out in silence. My people will die in
+darkness, and they will go on the long
+path to the other hunting grounds. No
+white man will go with them and no white
+man&rsquo;s Book will make the way plain. I
+have no more words.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>It was the rumor of this address that
+started Jason Lee and Marcus Whitman
+westward over the old Trail.</p>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0002' id='Footnote_0002'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0002'><span class='label'>[2]</span></a>
+<p>Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_99' name='page_99'></a>99</span>
+<a name='LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS' id='LIGHTS_AND_SIDELIGHTS'></a>
+<h2>LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_100' name='page_100'></a>100</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>I love thy rocks and rills,<br />
+Thy woods and templed hills,<br />
+My heart with rapture thrills.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Smith</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_101' name='page_101'></a>101</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS</p>
+<p>The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way
+through some of the very finest scenery of
+the West. These new ships of the desert,
+the passenger trains, glide gracefully down
+from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases.
+Whichever way the traveler turns he sees
+something absolutely new, and often in
+strange contrast with what he has just
+been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned
+giants of the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to
+timber line, stand motherlike, or bishoplike,
+crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant
+uplands and the velvety valleys whose
+billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of
+the prospering farmer. Now he beholds
+the ruggedest of capacious ca&ntilde;ons where
+the rollicking rivers and rhythmic rills have
+cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn
+and he sees the hearty herds transforming
+themselves automatically into gold for their
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_102' name='page_102'></a>102</span>
+happy owners; another turn shows the lazy
+rivers arising from their age-long beds and
+mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and
+to toil and sweat at the command of the
+lord of this world, as they irrigate his arid
+acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful
+river is carrying on its breast the tens of
+thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like
+straws on its frothy surface on their way
+to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed,
+serve the needs of man like trusted
+domestic servants.</p>
+<p>But this is not the way to view mountains;
+it is only surface sights we get in this
+manner. He who would know the beauties
+of the hills must become acquainted with
+them personally <i>and on foot</i>. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts
+of an upholstered, porter-served car. He
+may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he
+cares to visit only where such sure-footed
+animals can go. However, when I want to
+see the stately things among the unchiseled
+palaces and temples where Nature pays
+homage in the courts of the Divine Architect,
+I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_103' name='page_103'></a>103</span>
+with well-nailed shoes, rough clothes, a
+staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained;
+for though coy and apparently hard
+to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion
+when once you are acquainted.</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The distant mountains, that uprear<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Their solid bastions to the skies,<br />
+Are crossed by pathways, that appear<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>As we to higher levels rise.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said
+that every peak tempted him as with a
+beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.</p>
+<p>To those who have never been nearer the
+unlocked fastnesses of our eternal American
+hills than by the too common means above
+mentioned, the far-away cliffs of marble or
+white granite, with their areas of unmeltable
+snows and ices, look temptingly down
+on us in August, together with the smaller
+and less inspiring crags. But when we approach
+them, even those nearest, how they
+appear to recede&ndash;&ndash;almost to run away!
+The high peaks that looked as though
+climbing up and peeping over the heads of
+the lower ones, either jump down and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_104' name='page_104'></a>104</span>
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones
+rise up to protect them. So it seems as one
+approaches.</p>
+<p>Entering the mountain side by way of a
+yawning ca&ntilde;on we soon come to a sheer
+precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular
+sides, while, leaping from the
+top of the declivity high above our heads, as
+if from the very zenith, a stream of crystal
+water cleaves the air. It is dashed into
+countless strands of silvery pearls before
+it reaches the deep bed of moss spread
+down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward
+the moon-whipped ocean.</p>
+<p>Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us
+how to climb some mountains, but here we
+have to construct our ladders, for anyone
+less sure of foot than the chamois or the
+mountain sheep must stay at the bottom
+of the falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary
+now, and the gaping chasm has
+swallowed us upward, where we reach an
+opening into a wide park, a veritable fairyland.
+On the top of one of those ponderous
+laminations tilted edgewise is the king of
+the gnomes of the new glen. We call him
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_105' name='page_105'></a>105</span>
+Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over
+his wide domain! His kingly cap is adorned
+with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his
+ample breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic
+beard. This is one of the ways
+the quondam haughty hills have of providing
+entertainment for the bold questioner
+and visitor.</p>
+<p>The scenery is always new. High rocks,
+whose rugged faces look as if their titanic
+architect had been surprised and driven
+away while as yet his task was not half
+completed; long gaping gulches lined with
+an evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar,
+manzanita, and mountain mahogany, are
+some of the sidelights to be found in a
+day&rsquo;s journey in the realms adjacent to
+the Old Oregon Trail.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_107' name='page_107'></a>107</span>
+<a name='THE_STAGECOACH' id='THE_STAGECOACH'></a>
+<h2>THE STAGECOACH</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_108' name='page_108'></a>108</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'><span class='indent6'>&nbsp;</span>My high-blown pride<br />
+At length broke under me and now has left me,<br />
+Weary and old with service, to the mercy<br />
+Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When
+I was at home I was in a better place; but travelers
+must be content.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_109' name='page_109'></a>109</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE STAGECOACH</p>
+<p>At frequent intervals throughout the
+widening West may be seen the relegated
+ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless,
+forsaken. The merciless claws of
+summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white
+canvas cover and side curtains are flapping
+in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb
+with age and years of use, still tells tales
+of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.</p>
+<p>This class of carryall was at once unique
+and supreme. It was the one indispensable
+link in the endless chain of evolution popular
+and powerful, the only public agent of the
+Trail and the plains until the unconquerable
+initiative of the lord of the world had
+time to steel a highway with trackage for
+more rapid transit. What a living link was
+that old overland stage! To look upon an
+isolated and abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom
+is like standing at the marble monument
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_110' name='page_110'></a>110</span>
+of some human pivot in the mighty
+march of man&rsquo;s progress. Before the bold
+and bustling railway noisily elbowed its
+way into the affections of travel and commerce
+and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands
+of hurried travelers enjoyed (or endured)
+the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces
+as they, hour by hour, day after
+day, and night after night, and even week
+after week in the longer journeys, sat atop
+or inside this leviathan of the sand-ocean
+making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.</p>
+<p>Could such old hulk tell its story, could
+that dried-up old tongue but begin to wag
+again, what tales! First would come those
+of the men too often overworked and underappreciated,
+like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient
+Jehu, were compelled to drive furiously on
+occasion, in order to keep a cramped
+schedule or make up for the loss of time
+brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers
+there were who did not love their work. It
+came to be a saying, &ldquo;Once a driver, always
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_111' name='page_111'></a>111</span>
+a driver.&rdquo; The coach-and-four, or more,
+with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy
+envious and created in him a desire to become
+great some day too. Eagle and Dick,
+Tom and Rock, Bolly and Bill understood
+the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the
+line or the word of the chief charioteer,
+who, with foot on the long brake-beam,
+regulated the speed of the often crowded
+vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But
+Jehu is no longer universal king. A Pharaoh
+who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.</p>
+<p>In the boot of this old seaworthy craft
+was hauled many a load of treasure, for the
+gold-hungry prospector without sextant and
+chain surveyed the fastnesses of the hills
+as well as the illimitation of the prairies,
+and a care-taking government made a way
+to his camp to send him his mail. Express
+companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel
+became the lodestone to popular convenience.
+With many a load of treasure went
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_112' name='page_112'></a>112</span>
+a man known as a messenger, who sat beside
+the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or
+holdup, who so often robbed both stage and
+passenger.</p>
+<p>In the hold of this old coach have ridden
+governors, statesmen of all grades, men and
+women, good and better (some bad and
+worse); here were bridal tours, funeral parties,
+commercial men and gamblers, miners
+and prospectors, Chinamen and Indians,
+pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters, officers
+and convicts.</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Men of every station<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In the eye of fame,<br />
+On a common level<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Coming to the same&ndash;&ndash;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but
+more of a leveler was this old coach, for
+there was of necessity the forceful putting
+of people of the most heterogeneous character
+together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word
+here), made up its hashy load at the hand
+and command of the driver, whose word
+was unappealable law as complete as that
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_113' name='page_113'></a>113</span>
+of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene,
+millionaire or Lazarus, all were
+crowded together as the needs of the hour
+and the size of the passengers demanded,
+to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey&rsquo;s end.</p>
+<p>Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged
+till the stage station was reached; here the
+horses were exchanged for fresher ones;
+the wayside inn had its tables of provisions
+varying and varied as the region traversed.
+If in the mountains, there were likely to
+be trout, saddle of deer, steaks of bear;
+but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually
+these crowds were joking and jolly, unless
+tempered by something requiring more sobriety,
+but always optimistic, for the fellow
+who became grouchy the while had generally
+abundant occasion to repent and
+mend his ways.</p>
+<p>One day, on a road not far from where
+this is being written, the old coach was
+toiling up a long mountainside; the driver
+was drowsy and the passengers had exhausted
+their newest r&eacute;pertoire of stories
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_114' name='page_114'></a>114</span>
+and had lapsed into stillness such as often
+seizes a squeezed crowd. The horses were
+permitted to take their time; the dust was
+deep, the sun hot, and all possible stillness
+prevailed.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Halt!&rdquo; ordered a low voice very near
+the road.</p>
+<p>The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand
+the command, and simply looked up,
+half asleep, and said to the horses, &ldquo;Gid-dap!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Halt!&rdquo; came the words again, louder and
+unmistakable.</p>
+<p>Myers halted. Standing at the end of
+an elongated bunch of pines where he had
+been invisible until the heads of the horses
+appeared stood the highwayman, with
+menacing gun covering the head of the
+driver.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Throw out your treasure and mail!&rdquo;
+came the command.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I have mail, but no treasure,&rdquo; said my
+friend Tom, as he afterward pointed out
+the spot and told the story. &ldquo;Come and
+get it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned
+the pockets of the travelers inside out, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_115' name='page_115'></a>115</span>
+bade them drive on without imitating Lot&rsquo;s
+wife; he was never caught.</p>
+<p>To be sure, this is a tame story, and
+many readers doubtless can tell one more
+thrilling; but this one is true.</p>
+<p>The stagecoach is a thing of the past,
+but we still have the hardy, dust-covered,
+mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul
+the freight far back into hills where for
+ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by
+the Trails; they eat at the wheel; they
+sleep under the wagon; they are kindly
+and obliging even when their heavily belled
+teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some
+narrow pass where the highest engineering
+ability is needed to get by in safety; and
+they never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_117' name='page_117'></a>117</span>
+<a name='AMONG_THE_HILLS' id='AMONG_THE_HILLS'></a>
+<h2>AMONG THE HILLS</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_118' name='page_118'></a>118</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>To him who in the love of Nature, holds<br />
+Communion with her visible forms, she speaks<br />
+A various language;...<br />
+<span class='indent25'>&nbsp;</span>The hills<br />
+Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bryant</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Not vainly did the early Persian make<br />
+His altar the high places and the peak<br />
+Of earth-o&rsquo;ergazing mountains, and thus take<br />
+A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek<br />
+The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,<br />
+Upreared of human hands.... compare<br />
+Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek<br />
+With Nature&rsquo;s realm of worship.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Byron</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_119' name='page_119'></a>119</span>
+<a name='THE_MOTHER_DEER' id='THE_MOTHER_DEER'></a>
+<h2>THE MOTHER DEER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The ragged sky-line high in air<br />
+Sits boundary to sight<br />
+And seems to end the world;<br />
+But topping it by way well worn by braver<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>pioneer,<br />
+A fertile, home-filled dale is found<br />
+Where love holds warm,<br />
+And schools and churches dot the land.<br />
+But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach<br />
+With load of dust-clad travelers<br />
+Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,<br />
+The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,<br />
+Winding in and out among the stately<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>pines<br />
+(Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>moss<br />
+O&rsquo;er bleaching arms long since deprived of<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>life),<br />
+May now be seen a mother deer<br />
+Half hidden &rsquo;mong the sloping boughs;<br />
+Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense<br />
+And motionless. In silence all
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_120' name='page_120'></a>120</span><br />
+The passengers admire the instinct-love<br />
+Which not affrights the spotted babe<br />
+Fast sleeping at her feet.<br />
+&ldquo;There are no guns aboard!&rdquo; says one.<br />
+&ldquo;But if there were, how could one&rsquo;s heart<br />
+Be hard enough to murder mother-love?&rdquo;<br />
+Said I.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_121' name='page_121'></a>121</span>
+<a name='THE_SHEPHERD' id='THE_SHEPHERD'></a>
+<h2>THE SHEPHERD</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The tired shepherd stands among his ewes<br />
+That with their lambs are unafraid<br />
+Of him and keen-eyed dogs;<br />
+They crouch close in about his feet<br />
+Whene&rsquo;er the coyote&rsquo;s cry<br />
+Or bear&rsquo;s low growl<br />
+Falls tingling on the timid ear.<br />
+Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place<br />
+And peers amid the dust-dressed sage<br />
+And scented chaparral so dense,<br />
+To glimpse the fiery eyeballs<br />
+Of the prowler of the hills;<br />
+While all awatch the faithful collies stand<br />
+Prepared to fend e&rsquo;en with their lives<br />
+The young and helpless not their own.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_122' name='page_122'></a>122</span>
+<a name='THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER' id='THE_FEATHERED_DRUMMER'></a>
+<h2>THE FEATHERED DRUMMER</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The wooded thicket holds a drum.<br />
+The air in springtime afternoons<br />
+Is filled with sharp staccato notes<br />
+Whose echoes clear reverberate<br />
+From precipice and timbered hills.<br />
+No fifer plays accompaniment;<br />
+No pageant proud or marching throng<br />
+Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass<br />
+Whose sullen solo booms afar.<br />
+<br />
+A double challenge is this gage,<br />
+A gauntlet flung for love or war;<br />
+As strutting barnyard chanticleer<br />
+Defies his neighboring lord:<br />
+So calls this crested pheasant-king<br />
+For combat or for peace.<br />
+The meek brown mate upon her nest<br />
+Feels happy and secure<br />
+While thus her lord by deed and word<br />
+Displays his woodland bravery<br />
+And guards their little home.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_123' name='page_123'></a>123</span>
+<a name='MORMONDOM' id='MORMONDOM'></a>
+<h2>MORMONDOM</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_124' name='page_124'></a>124</span></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and
+that is the wrong one.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Samuel Johnson</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Utah is harder than China.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bishop Wiley</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist
+plowshare was ever set.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Bishop Fowler</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_125' name='page_125'></a>125</span>
+<a name='THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON' id='THE_TRAIL_OF_THE_MORMON'></a>
+<h2>THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON</h2>
+</div>
+<p>By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in
+1834, to plant the sturdy oak of Methodism
+in the Willamette Valley and the north
+Pacific Coast. His task was nobly done;
+the developments of to-day attest the wisdom
+of the church in sending him and his
+coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee, Cyrus
+Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.</p>
+<p>Over this same track went Marcus Whitman,
+in 1835, to found the mission at
+Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla
+Walla, and to find there the early grave of
+honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The
+call to these two intrepid equals, Lee and
+Whitman, came through the visit of the
+two young Indian chiefs who, immediately
+after the expedition of Lewis and Clark,
+had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy
+of the &ldquo;white man&rsquo;s Book of heaven.&rdquo; The
+names of these two, as previously stated,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_126' name='page_126'></a>126</span>
+were Hee-oh&rsquo;ks-te-kin and H&rsquo;co-a-h&rsquo;co-a-cotes-min.</p>
+<p>On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland,
+Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr., had organized
+the body best known as the Mormon
+Church. Fourteen years later he was
+mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo,
+Illinois, and after three more years of
+drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to
+upper California under the absolute domination
+and guidance of Brigham Young,
+who was often styled the successor to the
+&ldquo;Mohammed of the West,&rdquo; as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some
+queer traits. W. W. Phelps, one of their
+more prominent members, thus characterized
+the leaders of Mormondom: Brigham
+Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt,
+the Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive
+Branch of Israel; W. Richards, the Keeper
+of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right;
+W. Smith, the Patriarchal Jacob&rsquo;s Staff; W.
+Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G. A.
+Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt,
+the Gauge of Philosophy; J. E. Page, the
+Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_127' name='page_127'></a>127</span></div>
+<p>Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri,
+the trembling Saints sought less
+turbulent surroundings by immersing their
+all in the wild conditions both of men and
+wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain
+the physical cost of the trek of more
+than a thousand miles under the hardest
+of circumstances. The Trail was the home
+of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes,
+the Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who
+knew neither law nor mercy. The waters
+were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe.
+A thousand miles afoot was the record
+some had to make. They appealed to the
+government, then at war with Mexico, to
+permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient
+Santa Fe Trail, and thus be able to draw
+wages on the journey. This was granted.
+These recruits had little, if anything, to do,
+but they are known in history as the Mormon
+battalion. They went to California,
+1847-49, and were present when James
+Marshall discovered gold at Sutter&rsquo;s Mill.</p>
+<p>In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up
+its first trenches in the valley of the Great
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_128' name='page_128'></a>128</span>
+Salt Lake, as that saline body was then
+known and recorded. In this salubrious
+region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of
+Brigham became the center of the sensual
+system of the Latter-Day Saints. So
+blatant was the apostle Heber Kimball that
+he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.</p>
+<p>Evangelical Christianity waited almost
+twenty years before an attempt was made
+to plant the high standards of Christendom
+in the Wahsatch Mountains. In the sixties
+went the denominations in the order
+here named: Congregational, Protestant
+Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in 1871
+the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists.
+It was dark. Mighty night had beclouded
+the intellect and obscured the
+spiritual senses; civilized sensuality swayed
+with unchecked hand the destinies of the
+masses. The blinded people groped for
+light in the pitchlike blackness of the new
+superstition.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;None but Americans on guard&rdquo; in such
+a night! Hear the roll call. None but
+tried and true Christian soldiers were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_129' name='page_129'></a>129</span>
+mounted on those ramparts: Erastus Smith,
+the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army
+man, who always kept his patriotic fires
+banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran
+of the Civil War, tireless evangelist
+who possibly saw more Mormons made
+Christian than any other pastor of any
+church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient,
+sunny; Martinus Nelson, weeping over
+the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E.
+M&ouml;rk, rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson
+and Samuel Hooper, both of whom died
+by the Trail, falling at the &ldquo;post of honor.&rdquo;
+Last, but not least of these to be named,
+stands the energetic and &ldquo;Boanergetic&rdquo;
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor
+and patriot, who with heart-thrilling tones
+has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of
+churches in these United States. For
+thirty years he commanded the Methodist
+as well as the patriotic redoubts of Utah
+and bearded the &ldquo;Lion of the Lord&rdquo; in his
+very den.</p>
+<p>But there were never truer watchmen on
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_130' name='page_130'></a>130</span>
+the high-towered battlements of the real
+Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop,
+Daniel S. Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of
+the Congregationalists; the truly apostolic
+Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders&ndash;&ndash;who
+surpasses them? See the saintly
+Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain;
+the scholarly and tireless Paden!</p>
+<p>They were loyal to the core, commanding
+the Christian forces as they deployed, enfiladed,
+charged, marched, and stormed the
+trenches of religious libertinism in the fertile
+and paradisaical valleys and roomy ca&ntilde;ons
+of the Mormon state of Deseret. These
+never surrendered, compromised, or retreated.</p>
+<p>Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the
+honor of saluting you. Your like may
+never march abreast again in any campaign!
+Living, you were conquerors; dying,
+you are heroes.</p>
+<p>Of these above named Messrs. Hooper,
+Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece have
+entered the &ldquo;snow-white tents&rdquo; of the
+other shore.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_131' name='page_131'></a>131</span>
+<a name='SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS' id='SOME_MORMON_BELIEFS'></a>
+<h2>SOME MORMON BELIEFS</h2>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>His studie was but litel on the Bible.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Chaucer</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Imaginations fearfully absurd,<br />
+Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,<br />
+Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,<br />
+More bodiless and hideously misshapen<br />
+Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,<br />
+Playing at will, framed in the madman&rsquo;s brain.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pollok, in Course of Time</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>The abode of the dead, where they remained
+in full consciousness of their condition
+for indefinable periods, or even for
+eternity, has been the theme of many a
+writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant
+to the common intelligence. Homer
+sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of
+the dead, where he converses with them he
+had known in life. The Stygian River, the
+dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare,
+are all well known in the classics of the
+ancients.</p>
+<p>In some later religio-philosophic studies
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_132' name='page_132'></a>132</span>
+the names are different; some have tartarus,
+some purgatory, some paradise. The last
+is the name adopted by the Mormons.</p>
+<p>The heroes of Homer seemed never to
+hope for a release from the bonds of Hades.
+Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker,
+told the hero of those tales he was
+a daring one:</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>&ldquo;... who, yet alive, have gone<br />
+Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die<br />
+Is yours, while others die but once.&rdquo;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Many well meaning minds have tried to
+discover in the Bible, or otherwise reasonably
+invent a second probation for the
+unrepentant as an addendum to the final
+resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term &ldquo;spirits in prison&rdquo;
+(1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of &ldquo;baptism for the
+dead&rdquo; (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of
+zeal, or as a proselyting advertisement, the
+Latter-Day Saints proclaim the possibility
+of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise)
+being saved in heaven. To this end,
+early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching
+to the departed and that of proxy
+ministrations.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_133' name='page_133'></a>133</span></div>
+<p>From their Articles of Faith I take these
+two:</p>
+<blockquote>
+<p>3. We believe that through the atonement of
+Christ all mankind may be saved by obedience to
+the laws and ordinances of the gospel.</p>
+<p>4. We believe that these ordinances are: First,
+Faith in the Lord Jesus Christ; second, Repentance;
+third, Baptism by immersion for the remission of
+sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of the
+Holy Ghost.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Now, since without immersion there is
+no remission of sins, and since they who
+are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation,
+therefore some one must be baptized
+for them and have all the other rites
+of the plan likewise administered in their
+name. That &ldquo;all things may be done decently
+and in order,&rdquo; there was received a
+&ldquo;revelation&rdquo; to the end that temples must
+be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary
+for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the
+church who dies goes to the spiritual
+prison house and tells the people therein
+confined that these most meritorious works
+have been done for them on earth; in fact,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_134' name='page_134'></a>134</span>
+this is the chief reason for their going
+thither. They who will believe this story
+and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to &ldquo;a right to the tree of life, and
+may enter in through the gates into the
+city.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Not only are the people redeemed from
+all their sins by the pious ministrations of
+the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein,
+but as marriage relations are to continue
+throughout the endless ages of eternity, and
+children are to be born forever and ever,
+these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed &ldquo;for eternity&rdquo;; this act is known
+as the &ldquo;sealing&rdquo; process. Men are here
+married&ndash;&ndash;by proxy&ndash;&ndash;to others than the actual
+living wife, sometimes with her consent,
+sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned,
+was sealed thus for eternity to Martha
+Washington and to Empress Josephine. It
+sounds farcical and foolish in the extreme;
+fit only to be counted as a silly joke, unworthy
+the attention of a sane soul for a
+minute; but it is terribly sober when it is
+remembered that there are hundreds of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_135' name='page_135'></a>135</span>
+thousands of innocent, honest, and unsuspecting
+Mormons who really and truly believe
+this to be the only road to eternal
+life and exaltation.</p>
+<p>Added to this is the doctrine of the deification
+of men. All the true and faithful
+Mormons are to become gods by and by,
+and create and populate new worlds; hence
+the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth.
+Adam is the owner and ruler of earth, and
+to him we pray. He is our God. As such
+he is only one in an endless procession of
+such beings.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;There has been and there now exists an
+endless procession of the Gods, stretching
+back into the eternities, that had no beginning
+and will have no end. Their existence
+runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless
+space.&rdquo;<a name='FNanchor_0003' id='FNanchor_0003'></a><a href='#Footnote_0003' class='fnanchor'>[3]</a></p>
+<p>Possibly the most popular hymn among
+these people is the following, written by
+one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R.
+Snow. It is in their collection and now in
+use:</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_136' name='page_136'></a>136</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='center cg'>HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER</p>
+<p class='cg'><br />
+O my Father, thou that dwellest<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In the high and glorious place!<br />
+When shall I regain thy presence,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>And again behold thy face?<br />
+In thy holy habitation,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Did my spirit once reside?<br />
+In my first primeval childhood,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Was I nurtured by thy side?<br />
+<br />
+For a wise and glorious purpose<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Thou hast placed me here on earth,<br />
+And withheld the recollection<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Of my former friends and birth;<br />
+Yet ofttimes a secret something<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Whispered, &ldquo;You&rsquo;re a stranger here&rdquo;;<br />
+And I felt that I had wandered<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>From a more exalted sphere.<br />
+<br />
+I had learned to call thee Father,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Through thy Spirit from on high;<br />
+But, until the Key of Knowledge<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Was restored, I knew not why.<br />
+In the heavens are parents single?<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>No; the thought makes reason stare!<br />
+Truth is reason; truth eternal<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Tells me, I&rsquo;ve a mother there.<br />
+<br />
+When I leave this frail existence,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>When I lay this mortal by,<br />
+Father, mother, may I meet you<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>In your royal court on high?
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_137' name='page_137'></a>137</span><br />
+Then, at length, when I&rsquo;ve completed<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>All you sent me forth to do,<br />
+With your mutual approbation<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Let me come and dwell with you.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='fn' />
+<div class='footnote'><a name='Footnote_0003' id='Footnote_0003'></a><a href='#FNanchor_0003'><span class='label'>[3]</span></a>
+<p>New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_138' name='page_138'></a>138</span>
+<a name='WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST' id='WEBER_TOM_UTE_POLYGAMIST'></a>
+<h2>WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor&rsquo;d mind<br />
+Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;<br />
+His soul proud Science never taught to stray<br />
+Far as the solar walk or milky way.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Pope</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>When Mormonism was no longer compelled
+to maintain the defensive it quickly
+assumed the offensive. This was apparently
+deemed necessary for the existence of
+the system. Two kinds of preaching were
+indulged in by the elders on their missions,
+home and foreign. At home they declared
+the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including
+the doctrine of polygamy, a sweet morsel
+for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were
+trying by every means, Machiavellian or
+otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as Indians
+were called by the Mormons, at least to an
+extent which would allow them to remain
+undisturbed throughout the territory of
+Utah. Old Kanosh and other leaders were
+immersed for the remission of their sins,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_139' name='page_139'></a>139</span>
+but they were permitted to multiply unto
+themselves as many squaws as they cared
+for. It would take water stronger than the
+common alkaline pools contained to reach
+the morals of a heathen Ute.</p>
+<p>Very many of the Indians thus were made
+Mormons and white men were appointed as
+their bishops. Brigham Young used to
+make visits to them to try to instruct them
+in various things. For a considerable
+period he was the Superintendent of Indian
+Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable
+Mountain Meadow Massacre, in 1857, and
+for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered
+death.</p>
+<p>Possibly it was the influence of Mr.
+Young that kept the most of the red men
+from the warpath and thus saved the scattered
+settlers in the earlier days when there
+were so few to guard the isolated homes in
+the far-away nooks and ca&ntilde;ons of the
+mountains.</p>
+<p>The other sort of preaching in which the
+elders indulged was that of an absolute and
+unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah.
+Such was the plan of the elders who went
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_140' name='page_140'></a>140</span>
+to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is
+abundant evidence. When they deny polygamy
+now they have the consistency of
+definition to back them; to their manner of
+explaining, polygamy is the act of taking
+new wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy
+is the possessing of more than one wife.
+For this reason we are very bold in saying
+that polygamy is publicly practiced in Utah&ndash;&ndash;witness
+Joseph F. Smith as chief example.</p>
+<p>Although we may read of it, none can
+comprehend just what it means to a girl-wife,
+two thousand miles away from her
+parents, to be treated as an alien, in a land
+under the flag of the free. This was the
+case in the strictly Mormon settlements in
+Utah thirty years ago. Reason only kept
+the Giant Despair from the threshold of
+the mind. The bravery of these women
+can be compared only to the English
+women of the Sepoy Rebellion days of
+1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous
+husbands to their isolated posts on the
+Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally
+in the dangers, and to die lingeringly and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_141' name='page_141'></a>141</span>
+cruelly if necessary. Retreat and surrender
+never grew in the hearts of such
+women. It was so in the times that were
+called the &ldquo;dark days&rdquo; in Utah&ndash;&ndash;the time
+when the government applied its functions
+to the stamping out of polygamous practices,
+1883 to 1893&ndash;&ndash;ten terrible years for
+the Mormon as well as the non-Mormon.</p>
+<p>Add to this the fact that, unannounced,
+a brawny, stalwart Indian might walk in
+at the door. More than once has it so occurred
+in our home. One day the door
+was suddenly opened and in walked a
+grinning brave, armed with a long knife,
+and followed by his squaw; extending his
+empty hand toward the far-from-home
+girl-wife, alone in the house, he said,
+&ldquo;How-do!&rdquo; In telling us of it, she said:
+&ldquo;I was scared to death, I thought, but I
+would have shaken hands with him if I
+had died in the attempt. I would not let
+him know I feared him.&rdquo; But this was
+not Weber Tom.</p>
+<p>It was in those fearsome days when the
+leading men of Utah&ndash;&ndash;farmers, bankers,
+stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and
+conditions of the Latter-Day Saints&ndash;&ndash;were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_142' name='page_142'></a>142</span>
+being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up
+to our door the battle-scarred old warrior,
+Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes,
+or Goshutes.</p>
+<p>If perfection is beauty, this Indian was
+most beautiful, for he was the ugliest
+creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection.
+One eye had been gouged out, a
+knife-scar extended from his ear down
+across his mouth, and he was Herculean in
+physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he
+tried vainly to button it over his vast
+frontal protuberance, looking at me and
+saying, &ldquo;Too short, too short.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing
+my wife standing near, reached the reins of
+the bridle to her and said, &ldquo;Here, squaw,
+hol&rsquo; my hoss.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She said, quietly, &ldquo;Hold your own horse
+if you want him held.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Having had to accommodate himself to
+the rudeness of a civilized woman, he made
+other provision for his cayuse and then
+asked her, &ldquo;Wheh yo&rsquo;man?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>She told him I was down in the field, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_143' name='page_143'></a>143</span>
+he then proceeded to find me. He was in
+the depths of trouble. He had several
+squaw-wives and feared he was to be arrested
+for it.</p>
+<p>Now he approached me. It was dramatic;
+it was high-class pantomime. It is
+too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or
+some other moving-picture machine had not
+been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs
+of his case that he walked stoically to his
+quest.</p>
+<p>Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began:
+&ldquo;You heap big chief. You talky this
+way&rdquo; (at the same time extending one
+finger straight from his lips). &ldquo;Mormon he
+talky this way&rdquo; (now extending two fingers,
+to show he understood them to talk with
+double tongue). &ldquo;Mormon telly me sojer
+men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me
+havy two, tree, four squaw. You heap big
+chief. You telly me this way&rdquo; (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: &ldquo;Me havy two, tree,
+four squaw. Mormon he telly me, me go
+jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap
+cry, <i>heap</i> cry, HEAP cry, by um by die!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This was accompanied by gestures, throwing
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_144' name='page_144'></a>144</span>
+his body backward in imitation of the
+dying woman whom fear had killed, according
+to his dramatic story.</p>
+<p>I told him something like this: &ldquo;No,
+heap big lie. You go back Skull Valley,
+you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you
+be heap good Injun!&rdquo; Upon this he grunted
+deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to
+his many-wived tents over across the creek,
+and soon we saw them filing off through the
+sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home,
+many miles over the Onaqui range.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_145' name='page_145'></a>145</span>
+<a name='POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY' id='POLYGAMY_OF_TODAY'></a>
+<h2>POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY</h2>
+</div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The man that lays his hand upon a woman,<br />
+Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch<br />
+Whom &rsquo;t were gross flattery to name a coward.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>John Tobin</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>A baby was sleeping,<br />
+Its mother was weeping.<br />
+&ndash;&ndash;<i>Samuel Lover</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>Polygamy <i>may</i> die in Mormondom, but
+has never yet done so. Cases are often
+reported, and from the manner of their
+finding it is a certainty that new alliances
+are being formed continually between married
+men and unmarried women.</p>
+<p>Not long ago a very bright conversion
+was made in one of the missions of an
+evangelical denomination. The convert was
+a young woman of more than average intelligence.
+Some of her relatives had been
+polygamists, but she repudiated the whole
+cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other
+residence than her rightful home.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_146' name='page_146'></a>146</span></div>
+<p>Some time after she permitted herself to
+be persuaded that a young man of her
+acquaintance loved her more than he did
+the polygamous tenet of his church&ndash;&ndash;he was a
+Mormon&ndash;&ndash;and that he never would attempt
+to woo and win another woman while she
+remained his wife. She consented, and was
+happy in her home life. Not for a moment
+did she suspect him of double-dealing. Her
+honest heart was above entertaining such
+suspicion had it entered. Serenely she saw
+her children growing to useful womanhood.
+Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm
+sea of life; all was fine sailing. One day she
+was making some repairs in one of her husband&rsquo;s
+garments when a letter fell from a
+pocket. It bore the postmark of a city
+where they both had relatives, and it was
+quite natural that she should look into its
+contents.</p>
+<p>What despair and agony seized her when
+she read therein the statement from the
+&ldquo;other woman&rdquo; telling her &ldquo;fond&rdquo; husband
+of the birth of the child!</p>
+<p>The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto
+trusting wife immediately rose to the dignity
+of outraged womanhood and insulted
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_147' name='page_147'></a>147</span>
+wifehood and compelled the polygamist to
+choose at once between her and the concubine.
+He did so, choosing the younger
+woman and leaving her who had trusted
+him too fondly.</p>
+<p>This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah,
+but a living, festering story of the vivid
+present.</p>
+<p>One way of avoiding prosecution by the
+law is the surreptitious, clandestine rearing
+of children, whose mothers lose no prestige
+in the community; for it is well understood
+&ldquo;among the neighbors and friends.&rdquo; &ldquo;Public
+polygamy has been suspended,&rdquo; but the
+requirement of the doctrine remains unchanged.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_149' name='page_149'></a>149</span>
+<a name='GREAT_SALT_LAKE' id='GREAT_SALT_LAKE'></a>
+<h2>GREAT SALT LAKE</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_150' name='page_150'></a>150</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>So lonely &rsquo;twas that God himself<br />
+Scarce seemed there to be.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Coleridge</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'><span class='indent10'>&nbsp;</span>This is truth the poet sings<br />
+That a sorrow&rsquo;s crown of sorrow is remembering<br />
+<span class='indent4'>&nbsp;</span>happier things.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Tennyson</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_151' name='page_151'></a>151</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>GREAT SALT LAKE</p>
+<p>Many stories, weird and lurid, true and
+untrue, have been told of this body of
+saline water lying imposed on the breast of
+the beautiful and scenic State of Utah.
+Although one of the transcontinental highways
+of ocean-to-ocean travel has extended
+its bands of steel directly across its wide
+bosom for many miles, it is still a spot
+where mystery lingers.</p>
+<p>Private as well as public legends are
+handed down from lip to ear rather than
+from page to eye. For that reason there are
+tales of this wonderful salt sea to be learned
+only by residing in the vicinity. Its natural
+moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual
+characteristics would make a book.</p>
+<p>The briny pond is but a wee thing as
+compared with its gigantic dimensions in
+the days when its waters were sweet and
+had an outlet to the north. Then its arms
+spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_152' name='page_152'></a>152</span>
+from the northern end to the southern, and
+145 miles across from east to west. The
+area was 20,000 square miles. This greater
+lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet
+above the level of the sea. Geologists have
+named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor
+of the intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington
+Irving has so well fixed in American
+literature.</p>
+<p>By some as yet unknown cataclysm a
+great break was made at the north end of
+this inland ocean and its pent volume was
+poured into the ca&ntilde;on of the Port Neuf
+toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced
+the level four hundred feet, but the old
+beach line may still be easily noted. Gradually
+this diminished body became smaller
+and smaller until it reached the present
+stage of desiccation.</p>
+<p>So impure is this heavy liquid that after
+evaporation there is a residuum of twenty-eight
+pounds of solid matter in every hundred.
+This is composed of salt, magnesium,
+and other elements carrying three dollars of
+gold to the ton; the gold is not made a
+matter of trade or of industry because
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_153' name='page_153'></a>153</span>
+facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and
+none of vegetable; in fact, at every point
+where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is
+that of a very small gnat which, mosquito-like,
+lays its eggs on the surface of the
+water. The larv&aelig;, when driven shoreward,
+collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles
+to the leeward. Myriads of seagulls here
+find a dainty feast.</p>
+<p>Salt Lake affords the finest and really the
+only beach-bathing resort in the whole
+interocean country. The bathing is attended
+with little, if any, danger. In
+thirty years only two persons have been
+lost. These strangled before assistance
+reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the
+south end of the lake, whither the high
+winds from the north had drifted it. All
+the parts protected by the sand were perfectly
+preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.</p>
+<p>The tops of a number of sunken mountains
+still protrude above the surface and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_154' name='page_154'></a>154</span>
+form islands: such are Fremont, Church,
+Stanbury, Carrington, and others. Some of
+these are habitable, possessing fine springs
+and irrigable land. Very few people live
+on these islands, but some brave spirits
+dare to face the semiprivations of such
+isolation and stay there with their herds.</p>
+<p>Doubtless, many tales of heroism and
+devotion could be told of those who have
+lived on these islands. One of the best
+known is that of Mrs. Wenner, who, a few
+years after her marriage, went with her
+husband and little children to live on
+Fremont Island. Her husband&rsquo;s health failing,
+the oversight of the herds fell largely
+upon her, but she cheerily took up the
+burden, the while she trained her little
+ones, and was ever a true companion to
+him whom she daily saw slipping away.</p>
+<p>The end came on a dread and fearsome
+day, while the faithful man who worked
+for them was detained on the mainland by
+a raging storm. The children and an incompetent
+woman could give her little assistance
+or consolation. There on the
+lonely, storm-lashed island, with faint-whispered
+words of love, the dear one
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_155' name='page_155'></a>155</span>
+closed his eyes forever. Tenderly she cared
+for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two
+watchfires intended as a signal to those on
+the mainland. On the night of the second
+day, the man made his dangerous way back
+to the island&ndash;&ndash;and with his help she laid
+the loved husband in his island grave, with
+no service but the tears and prayers of
+those who mourned.</p>
+<p>This is but one story of desolation and
+sorrow&ndash;&ndash;but the deep, briny waters and
+the barren, forbidding shores hold in their
+keeping many suggestions of mystery and
+of tears.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_157' name='page_157'></a>157</span>
+<a name='ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE' id='ARGONAUT_SAMS_TALE'></a>
+<h2>ARGONAUT SAM&rsquo;S TALE</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_158' name='page_158'></a>158</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word<br />
+Would harrow up thy soul.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Shakespeare</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_159' name='page_159'></a>159</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>ARGONAUT SAM&rsquo;S TALE</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>&ldquo;I panned him out over and over ag&rsquo;in,<br />
+But found nary sign of color,&rdquo;<br />
+Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,<br />
+As sitting atop of a box, to some men<br />
+He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent38'>&nbsp;</span>And then,<br />
+With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back<br />
+And said: &ldquo;&rsquo;Twuz one night in the fifties I know;<br />
+Ther&rsquo; kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below<br />
+A youngish-like feller; but steppin&rsquo; so slow<br />
+I heartily pitied him even before<br />
+I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack<br />
+Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack<br />
+Of more&rsquo;n enough power to bring to my door<br />
+That tremblin&rsquo; young body.<br />
+<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_160' name='page_160'></a>160</span><br />
+<span class='indent25'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;He hed a small pack&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+A blanket an&rsquo; buckskin&ndash;&ndash;but that wa&rsquo;nt no lack<br />
+In them days when notions an&rsquo; fashions wuz slack;<br />
+When all a man needed, besides pick an&rsquo; pan,<br />
+Wuz a wallet o&rsquo; leather to tie up his dust&ndash;&ndash;&rsquo;R<br />
+a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust<br />
+Till he found a good prospeck); an&rsquo; then he&rsquo;d put in<br />
+His very best licks; fur in them days &rsquo;twuz sin<br />
+Fer a man strong o&rsquo; body, o&rsquo; wind an&rsquo; o&rsquo; limb<br />
+T&rsquo; hang erround loafin&rsquo; all day, &rsquo;twuz too thin.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;Well, this puny feller hed grin&rsquo;-stunlike grit,<br />
+But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;<br />
+&rsquo;N fell down a-faintin&rsquo; jist inside my door&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+His eyes set &rsquo;n&rsquo; glassy&ndash;&ndash;he seemed done fer, shore.<br />
+So I straightened him out, couldn&rsquo;t do nothin&rsquo; more
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_161' name='page_161'></a>161</span><br />
+<br />
+Than to put back his hair an&rsquo; t&rsquo; dampen his brow,<br />
+An&rsquo; to feel fer his pulse&ndash;&ndash;joy! I found  it&ndash;&ndash;slow<br />
+An&rsquo; flickery though, stoppin&rsquo; and startin&rsquo;, an&rsquo; now<br />
+Gone ag&rsquo;in; then it revived, but so faint, don&rsquo;t you know,<br />
+That minute by minute I couldn&rsquo;t hev said<br />
+Whether the feller wuz livin&rsquo; or dead.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;All night I watched by him; an&rsquo; &rsquo;long a-to&rsquo;rds light<br />
+I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!<br />
+I made up my mind that I&rsquo;d save that young life<br />
+If it took me all summer. I&rsquo;d fight<br />
+With grim death to a finish fer him.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent34'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;An&rsquo; so I begun.<br />
+I quit workin&rsquo; my claim<br />
+Where I&rsquo;d git on an average (&rsquo;pon my good name)<br />
+An ounce or more daily of number one gold.<br />
+An&rsquo; in them days we thought nothin&rsquo;, you see,<br />
+Of layin&rsquo; by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_162' name='page_162'></a>162</span><br />
+Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an&rsquo; wuz thick<br />
+Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick<br />
+Hed plenty o&rsquo; gold in nuggets or dust&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+An&rsquo; the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.<br />
+So I shouldered my task.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent28'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;It wuz wonderful how<br />
+The new life appeared to come back to my boy;<br />
+(Fer that&rsquo;s what I called him&ndash;&ndash;&lsquo;my boy&rsquo;) an&rsquo; the joy<br />
+O&rsquo; perviden fer suthin&rsquo; besides my lone self<br />
+Made me happy. Y&rsquo; see, th&rsquo; experunce wuz new;<br />
+Fer I&rsquo;d lived all alone ever since forty-two,<br />
+When, back in Ohio, I&rsquo;d buried my wife<br />
+An&rsquo; baby. Since then I&rsquo;d looked on my life<br />
+As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.<br />
+So that&rsquo;s why I lived all alone, don&rsquo;t you see?<br />
+I didn&rsquo;t love nothin&rsquo; and nothin&rsquo; loved me.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;But now of young Josh&ndash;&ndash;his name wuz Josh Clark&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+He&rsquo;d come frum ol&rsquo; York State&ndash;&ndash;could sing like a lark&ndash;&ndash;
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_163' name='page_163'></a>163</span><br />
+Wuz finely brung up, an&rsquo; that mother o&rsquo; his,<br />
+A sister he tol&rsquo; me, an&rsquo; a girl he called Liz.<br />
+&rsquo;D a give the hull earth if they only could know<br />
+If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he<br />
+Would never be grateful to them nur to me.<br />
+Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem<br />
+After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam<br />
+O&rsquo; thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.<br />
+&rsquo;Sides spendin&rsquo; my all I hed broken down too,<br />
+Wuz a shattered ol&rsquo; man, though but then fifty-two;<br />
+Fer I&rsquo;d give up my health an&rsquo; my strength to pull through<br />
+My boy&ndash;&ndash;fer I loved him, if ever men do.<br />
+But, no; it appeared that he hedn&rsquo;t no heart.<br />
+Not once did he thank me, and never asked why<br />
+I nussed him to life, &rsquo;stid o&rsquo; lettin&rsquo; him die.<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_164' name='page_164'></a>164</span><br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,<br />
+An&rsquo; once in the dusk, as we set on the sands<br />
+Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands<br />
+So quick an&rsquo; so blamed unexpected, you see,<br />
+Grabbed me by the hair an&rsquo; out with a knife,<br />
+An&rsquo; demanded my gold. I thought fer my life<br />
+He wuz jokin&rsquo;; but no, when I seed that fierce look<br />
+Of murder an&rsquo; pillage, I knowed what I&rsquo;d done;<br />
+I&rsquo;d thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun<br />
+An&rsquo; now wuz becomin&rsquo; its prey.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='indent29'>&nbsp;</span>&ldquo;But, I&rsquo;d none:<br />
+I&rsquo;d spent all the surplus I hed to save him.<br />
+I&rsquo;d missed all the summer an&rsquo; fall to nuss him<br />
+Who now like a tiger wuz takin&rsquo; my life.<br />
+&lsquo;Hol&rsquo; on, my dear Josh! Hol&rsquo; on, my dear boy!&rsquo;<br />
+No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin&rsquo; my coat
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_165' name='page_165'></a>165</span><br />
+He throwed me ag&rsquo;in, now a madman, indeed.<br />
+His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, &lsquo;Do yer best.<br />
+I&rsquo;ve give you now all that I ever possessed<br />
+But life. Take it now if you like!&rsquo; An&rsquo; he struck.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;How long I laid there in the dark, I don&rsquo;t know;<br />
+But when I kem to I wuz layin&rsquo; in bed,<br />
+An&rsquo; the people wuz talkin&rsquo; so easy an&rsquo; low,<br />
+An&rsquo; I knowed by the bandages too on my head<br />
+That I hed been nigh to the gates o&rsquo; the dead.<br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;An&rsquo; &lsquo;Where wuz Josh Clark?&rsquo; did you say? I don&rsquo;t know.<br />
+He never wuz seen in the diggins below,<br />
+Ner heerd of in them parts ag&rsquo;in, fer I know<br />
+He&rsquo;d a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;<br />
+Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,<br />
+But wuz mighty in doin&rsquo;. So he got away.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_166' name='page_166'></a>166</span><br />
+<br />
+&ldquo;So it seems that some people is jist so depraved<br />
+There ain&rsquo;t a thing in &rsquo;em that ort to be saved.<br />
+&rsquo;Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;<br />
+He lived fer hisself an&rsquo; fer hisself alone.<br />
+&rsquo;N&rsquo; &rsquo;at&rsquo;s why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,<br />
+The thing &rsquo;at it&rsquo;s cost me so dearly to larn&ndash;&ndash;&lsquo;I panned him out over an&rsquo; over ag&rsquo;in,<br />
+But found nary sign of a color.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_167' name='page_167'></a>167</span>
+<a name='THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD' id='THE_WRAITH_OF_THE_BLIZZARD'></a>
+<h2>THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_168' name='page_168'></a>168</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;<br />
+And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Southey</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>What matter how the night behaved?<br />
+What matter how the north wind raved?<br /></p>
+<p class='ralign cg'>&ndash;&ndash;<i>Whittier</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_169' name='page_169'></a>169</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD</p>
+<p>We dread the unseen. Fear is always
+enervating; sometimes even deadly. Who
+has not fearsomely anticipated that which
+never came and wasted valuable energy
+and time in building bridges none are ever
+to cross? The surgical patient actually suffers
+more at sight of somber white-clad
+nurses, and the thought of the operation,
+than he does from the ordeal itself. It
+may be that we subconsciously dread the
+helpless state of unconsciousness into which
+the an&aelig;sthetic plunges us, and hesitate at
+a trip, no matter how short, into death&rsquo;s
+borderland, preferring to keep our own
+hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.</p>
+<p>I wonder why we become terror-stricken
+at the thought of ghosts. The untutored
+child needs only a hint to make him shy at
+the dark; and a lad has to be pretty large
+before he can walk far at night without
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_170' name='page_170'></a>170</span>
+once in a while looking behind him, just to
+be certain there is nothing following.</p>
+<p>Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and
+other uncanny apparitions are unintentional
+inheritances of the race; a race that knows
+little more about the impending and impinging
+unseen than did the Saxon fathers
+who gave us our spooky speech.</p>
+<p>I once had an experience which grows in
+interest as the years pass by. I had no
+fear or thought of fear that night, and the
+scenes of the evening were absolutely unannounced;
+they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no
+program.</p>
+<p>One afternoon I was to go to one of my
+appointments, a mining town in Utah. In
+order to relieve home cares I took with me
+my four-year-old son, who thus would get
+some novel entertainment as well. To the
+buggy I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan
+cayuse, and started for the distant point.
+It was a little stormy all the way, and by
+the time we had well begun the service it
+had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and
+continued with such strength that soon
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_171' name='page_171'></a>171</span>
+there appeared no slant to the falling
+columns. By the time church was dismissed
+the blizzard was on in full force,
+and the roads were already so filled with
+the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a
+saddle, and leaving the little lad with
+friends, started for home, where I was
+under appointment to preach that evening.
+My way lay in the north, in the very teeth
+of the raging storm. With head tucked
+down, I trusted the reins to Jenny, who
+had never disappointed me in many a
+mountain trip, but I had not gone far until
+I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I
+discovered that the mountains were on my
+left instead of on my right, as they should
+have been. Jenny had turned tail to the
+storm. Feeling herself unwilling to face the
+arctic onset, she was retreating.</p>
+<p>Only the dire necessity of the occasion
+made me compel her to face the torturing
+attack of the icy shafts that were hurling
+themselves on us like steel points.</p>
+<p>We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon
+the only road, now drift-filled, and take an
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_172' name='page_172'></a>172</span>
+unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers,
+buckbrush, and other tangled chaparral,
+where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an
+eye on the mountains and not get turned
+around again. I felt the force of Cardinal
+Newman&rsquo;s immortal hymn,</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>... amid the encircling gloom,<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Lead thou me on!<br />
+The night is dark and I am far from home;<br />
+<span class='indent2'>&nbsp;</span>Lead thou me on!</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>We had not gone far until I began to
+hear the sweetest music. I could not
+imagine from whence it fell, as I knew
+there was not a human home in all that
+plain between the two settlements. Then I
+heard personal conversation; in fact, the
+night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in
+the least. They seemed to have an open
+road too, while we were plunging through
+deep snowdrifts, my feet already dragging
+along their tops.</p>
+<p>When the first carriage load came up I
+saw it was only a desert juniper. The
+boreal gale sweeping through its shivering
+branches made converse in the music of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_173' name='page_173'></a>173</span>
+the wild, Jenny and I being the only seat-holders
+in that grand opera. Soon another
+caravan of belated folks drove up; but it
+was only a load of hay that had been over-tipped.
+Others came, but they were only
+bushes or some inanimate object. There
+was little life out on that perishing night.</p>
+<p>After hours of fearsome and benumbing
+travel, Jenny stumbled with me into the
+little home town. A good feed of oats and
+a warm shelter doubtless ended the story
+happily for her. But for me&ndash;&ndash;the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard
+had become real. They spoke to me that
+night and I understood.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_175' name='page_175'></a>175</span>
+<a name='THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST' id='THE_GREAT_NORTHWEST'></a>
+<h2>THE GREAT NORTHWEST</h2>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_176' name='page_176'></a>176</span></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+<p>Westward the course of empire takes its way.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Berkeley</i>.</p>
+<p>In the wilderness shall waters break out, and
+streams in the desert. And the parched ground
+shall become a pool, and the thirsty land springs
+of water.&ndash;&ndash;<i>Isaiah</i>.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_177' name='page_177'></a>177</span></div>
+<p style='text-align:center; margin-top:2em;font-size:1.4em;'>THE GREAT NORTHWEST</p>
+<p>Possibly there are those who find themselves
+thinking that Western tales are travelers&rsquo;
+tales and must be taken with &ldquo;a grain
+of salt.&rdquo; Some also say that the man who
+crosses the Missouri never is able to tell
+the truth again; this is crude, I know, and
+in some cases true, but they who are so
+afflicted were just the same before they ever
+saw the Missouri.</p>
+<p>Our waterless areas were considered by
+Captain Bonneville (as told by Washington
+Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless
+wastes. In Astoria&ndash;&ndash;chapter thirty-four&ndash;&ndash;these
+words are used:</p>
+<p>&ldquo;In this dreary desert of sand and gravel
+of the Snake here and there is a thin and
+scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or
+the buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes
+between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific
+are even more desolate and barren than
+the naked, upper prairies on the Atlantic
+side; they present vast desert tracts that
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_178' name='page_178'></a>178</span>
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose
+dreary and thirsty wilds between the habitations
+of man, in traversing which the
+wanderer will often be in danger of perishing.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote
+the matchless American <i>litt&eacute;rateur</i>, Washington
+Irving, of &ldquo;Sunnyside,&rdquo; author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George
+Washington, and the Broken Heart, which
+made Lord Byron weep. The doughty
+Captain Benjamin L. E. Bonneville, who
+died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of
+absence and a furlough, endured the
+pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer
+added the Trail to literature; but his
+eye of vision did not see these great
+stones of the commonwealth, Utah, Wyoming,
+Oregon, Washington, and Idaho.
+The very region so carefully pictured above
+as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of
+Idaho and a large portion of Oregon; a
+region perfectly adapted to the sustenance
+of immense population and intense development.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_179' name='page_179'></a>179</span></div>
+<p>Moses understood all the wisdom of the
+Egyptians. We do not, but we do know
+that the biggest thing in an arid country
+is the ditch. America&rsquo;s triumph to date
+in the twentieth century is the completion
+of the Panama Ditch. The ditch is in
+Idaho more valuable by far than the land,
+for without it the parched soil is practically
+worthless, being an area of shimmering sand,
+where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned
+toad, the rough-and-ready rattlesnake, and
+the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which
+preys on the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.</p>
+<p>The modern Western American is rapidly
+learning a modified wisdom of the ancient
+irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how
+to drain the irrigated acres and leech
+these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his
+deep basaltic furrows for the majestic Snake
+and other streams, these gorges of nature
+had been only mossy beds over which lazily
+slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and &ldquo;bitter moon-mad sea.&rdquo; Now
+man, the mightiest of all magicians, has
+lured the liquid serpents from their age-long
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_180' name='page_180'></a>180</span>
+couches, cut them into thousands of
+smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert,
+drowning its death and making it to bloom
+and blossom.</p>
+<p>As a concrete instance of the artificial
+possibilities of Idaho and contiguous regions,
+I will here instance a statement made
+for me by the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent
+of Pocatello District, and resident
+of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914:
+&ldquo;Where ten years ago this very minute
+there was not a fence nor a furrow (only
+the conditions above described by Washington
+Irving) there are now such municipalities
+as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley,
+and others soon to be as fine. As
+pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin
+Falls was made on July 14. I found one or
+two frame buildings and some tents stuck
+around in the sagebrush; some streets had
+been marked out, but no grading had been
+done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the
+main features of the place. In October I
+preached the first sermon ever delivered by
+any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_181' name='page_181'></a>181</span>
+5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909,
+we dedicated the present edifice at a cost
+of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;To-day this church has a membership of
+more than five hundred. This youngster
+has turned back into the treasuries of the
+denomination in regular collections more
+than $3,000. The city has to-day seven
+thousand people. There are between four
+and five miles of asphalt-paved streets, a
+perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks
+throughout the whole municipality. An investment
+of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings,
+besides a high school costing a quarter of a
+million dollars. These combined schools
+have an enrollment of over two thousand
+pupils with a teaching force of above sixty;
+the high school graduated forty-eight last
+commencement. There is not a saloon in
+the entire county.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Surely &ldquo;progress&rdquo; is here spelled in large
+letters.</p>
+<p>Years ago, with the narrow strip along
+the Atlantic in mind, Longfellow wrote,
+&ldquo;God had sifted three kingdoms to find
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_182' name='page_182'></a>182</span>
+the wheat for this planting.&rdquo; And as the
+mighty empire took its course toward the
+West of limitless opportunity the good God
+kept the sieve running full time, so that
+to-day</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The best of the best<br />
+Are in the Northwest.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_4' id='linki_4'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_183' name='page_183'></a>183</span>
+<img src='images/p0182a-insert.jpg' alt='' title='' width='331' height='361' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+END OF THE TRAIL<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<!-- generated by ppg.rb version: 3.19 -->
+<!-- timestamp: Fri Oct 23 18:48:28 -0600 2009 -->
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+  TO MY MOTHER,
+  TO MY WIFE;
+  LIKEWISE TO
+  THE PREACHERS OF
+  UTAH MISSION
+  AND
+  IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  PREFACE                                                            9
+  GOD'S MINISTER                                                    11
+  THE WESTERN TRAIL                                                 13
+  THE LONG TRAIL                                                    19
+  THE DESERT                                                        31
+  SAGEBRUSH                                                         39
+  THE IRON TRAIL                                                    47
+      A Railroad Saint in Idaho                                     49
+      An Unusual Kindness                                           59
+  INDIANS OF THE TRAIL                                              63
+      Introductory Words                                            65
+      Pocatello, the Chief                                          67
+      The Babyless Mother                                           72
+      Mary Muskrat                                                  76
+      Bad Ben                                                       79
+      A Three-Cornered Sermon                                       82
+      Three Years After                                             87
+      Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa                             92
+      The White Man's Book                                          96
+  LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS                                             99
+  THE STAGECOACH                                                   107
+  AMONG THE HILLS                                                  117
+      The Mother Deer                                              119
+      The Shepherd                                                 121
+      The Feathered Drummer                                        122
+  MORMONDOM                                                        123
+      The Trail of the Mormon                                      125
+      Some Mormon Beliefs                                          131
+      Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist                                    138
+      Polygamy of To-Day                                           145
+  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                  149
+  ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE                                              157
+  THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD                                       167
+  THE GREAT NORTHWEST                                              175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  J. D. Gillilan                                        _Frontispiece_
+  Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian                                    64
+  Wallowa Lake                                                      94
+  End of the Trail                                                 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the repertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+                                                           THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+                 _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+           As terrace upon terrace
+           Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+           And stretch away to dizzy heights
+           To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+           From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+           With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+                   Bare of other cloak--
+           Transforming them to rains and snows
+           To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+           So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+           High reaches out above all earthly things
+           And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+           Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+                   Richest of blessings,
+                   Holiest fruit of heaven--
+           Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+           That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+           And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+                   To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+                  And step by step since time began
+                  I see the steady gain of man.
+                                        --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+              Those mighty pyramids of stone
+                That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+              When nearer seen and better known
+                Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+                                        --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the canyony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+             Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+             And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+                                               --_Gray_.
+
+           As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+           their maps parts of the world which they do not
+           know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+           effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+           deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+           bogs.
+                                             --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+             This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+       The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+            There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+              In their houses of self-content;
+            There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+              In their fellowless firmament.
+            There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+              Where highways never ran.
+            But, let me live by the side of the road
+              And be a friend to man.
+                                        --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated canyons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+               That best portion of a good man's life--
+               His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+               Of kindness and of love.
+                                          --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+                   Man's inhumanity to man
+                   Makes countless thousands mourn.
+                   --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+             The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+             Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+                                              --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there canyon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+  Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+  because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+  Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+  these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+  A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+  [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+  So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+  return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+  and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+                  Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+                    Where'er it enters in
+                  Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+                    To slay the man of sin.
+                                    --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+                  Father of all! in every age,
+                    In every clime adored,
+                  By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+                    Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+                                --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+  Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble canyon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+            The book--this holy book, on every line
+            Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+            On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+            Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+            And signature of God Almighty stampt
+            From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+            This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+            Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+            Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+            And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+            And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+            And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+            Believed, obey'd.
+                                               --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+  [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+                    I love thy rocks and rills,
+                    Thy woods and templed hills,
+                    My heart with rapture thrills.
+                                        --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious canyons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+                 The distant mountains, that uprear
+                   Their solid bastions to the skies,
+                 Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+                   As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning canyon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+                  My high-blown pride
+            At length broke under me and now has left me,
+            Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+            Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+                                         --_Shakespeare_.
+
+  Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+  in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+                        Men of every station
+                          In the eye of fame,
+                        On a common level
+                          Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest repertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+             To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+             Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+             A various language;...
+                                      The hills
+             Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+                                              --_Bryant_.
+
+             Not vainly did the early Persian make
+             His altar the high places and the peak
+             Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+             A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+             The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+             Upreared of human hands.... compare
+             Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+             With Nature's realm of worship.
+                                               --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+              The ragged sky-line high in air
+              Sits boundary to sight
+              And seems to end the world;
+              But topping it by way well worn by braver
+                  pioneer,
+              A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+              Where love holds warm,
+              And schools and churches dot the land.
+              But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+              With load of dust-clad travelers
+              Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+              The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+              Winding in and out among the stately
+                  pines
+              (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+                  moss
+              O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+                  life),
+              May now be seen a mother deer
+              Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+              Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+              And motionless. In silence all
+              The passengers admire the instinct-love
+              Which not affrights the spotted babe
+              Fast sleeping at her feet.
+              "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+              "But if there were, how could one's heart
+              Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+              Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+             The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+             That with their lambs are unafraid
+             Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+             They crouch close in about his feet
+             Whene'er the coyote's cry
+             Or bear's low growl
+             Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+             Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+             And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+             And scented chaparral so dense,
+             To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+             Of the prowler of the hills;
+             While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+             Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+             The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+                 The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+                 The air in springtime afternoons
+                 Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+                 Whose echoes clear reverberate
+                 From precipice and timbered hills.
+                 No fifer plays accompaniment;
+                 No pageant proud or marching throng
+                 Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+                 Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+                 A double challenge is this gage,
+                 A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+                 As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+                 Defies his neighboring lord:
+                 So calls this crested pheasant-king
+                 For combat or for peace.
+                 The meek brown mate upon her nest
+                 Feels happy and secure
+                 While thus her lord by deed and word
+                 Displays his woodland bravery
+                 And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+  That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+  one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+  Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+  Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+  ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Moerk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy canyons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+  His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+            Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+            Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+            Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+            More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+            Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+            Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+                            --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+               "... who, yet alive, have gone
+               Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+               Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+  3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+  be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+  4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+  Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+  the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+  the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+                       HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+                O my Father, thou that dwellest
+                  In the high and glorious place!
+                When shall I regain thy presence,
+                  And again behold thy face?
+                In thy holy habitation,
+                  Did my spirit once reside?
+                In my first primeval childhood,
+                  Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+                For a wise and glorious purpose
+                  Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+                And withheld the recollection
+                  Of my former friends and birth;
+                Yet ofttimes a secret something
+                  Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+                And I felt that I had wandered
+                  From a more exalted sphere.
+
+                I had learned to call thee Father,
+                  Through thy Spirit from on high;
+                But, until the Key of Knowledge
+                  Was restored, I knew not why.
+                In the heavens are parents single?
+                  No; the thought makes reason stare!
+                Truth is reason; truth eternal
+                  Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+                When I leave this frail existence,
+                  When I lay this mortal by,
+                Father, mother, may I meet you
+                  In your royal court on high?
+                Then, at length, when I've completed
+                  All you sent me forth to do,
+                With your mutual approbation
+                  Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+  [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+            Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+            Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+            His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+            Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+                                                --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and canyons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+            The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+            Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+            Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+                                          --_John Tobin_.
+
+                       A baby was sleeping,
+                       Its mother was weeping.
+                       --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+                   So lonely 'twas that God himself
+                   Scarce seemed there to be.
+                                     --_Coleridge_.
+
+                      This is truth the poet sings
+            That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+                happier things.
+                                             --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the canyon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvae,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+              I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+              Would harrow up thy soul.
+                                        --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+  "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of color,"
+  Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+  As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+  He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+                                        And then,
+  With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+  And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+  Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+  A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+  I heartily pitied him even before
+  I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+  Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+  Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+  That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+                           "He hed a small pack--
+  A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+  In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+  When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+  Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+  a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+  Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+  His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+  Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+  T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+  "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+  But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+  'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+  His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+  So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+  Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+  An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found  it--slow
+  An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+  Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+  That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+  Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+  "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+  I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+  I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+  If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+  With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+                                    "An' so I begun.
+  I quit workin' my claim
+  Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+  An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+  An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+  Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+  Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+  Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+  Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+  An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+  So I shouldered my task.
+
+                              "It wuz wonderful how
+  The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+  (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+  O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+  Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+  Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+  When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+  An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+  As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+  So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+  I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+  "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+  He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+  Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+  A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+  'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+  If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+  Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+  Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+  After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+  O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+  'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+  Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+  Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+  My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+  But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+  Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+  I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+  "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+  An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+  Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+  So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+  Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+  An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+  He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+  Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+  I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+  An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+                               "But, I'd none:
+  I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+  I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+  Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+  'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+  No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+  I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+  He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+  His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+  I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+  But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+  "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+  But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+  An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+  An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+  That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+  "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+  He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+  Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+  He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+  Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+  But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+  "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+  There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+  'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+  He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+  'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+  The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+        an' over ag'in,
+  But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+            The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+            And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+                                              --_Southey_.
+
+                What matter how the night behaved?
+                What matter how the north wind raved?
+                                        --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anaesthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+              ... amid the encircling gloom,
+                Lead thou me on!
+              The night is dark and I am far from home;
+                Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+  God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+  planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+  Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+  In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+  desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+  thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_litterateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+                        The best of the best
+                        Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
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