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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Trail Tales
+
+Author: James David Gillilan
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2009 [EBook #30320]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAIL TALES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: J. D. Gillilan (signature)]
+
+
+
+
+TRAIL TALES
+
+BY
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+THE ABINGDON PRESS
+
+NEW YORK--CINCINNATI
+
+
+
+
+Copyright, 1915, by
+
+JAMES DAVID GILLILAN
+
+
+
+
+ DEDICATED AFFECTIONATELY
+ TO MY MOTHER,
+ TO MY WIFE;
+ LIKEWISE TO
+ THE PREACHERS OF
+ UTAH MISSION
+ AND
+ IDAHO ANNUAL CONFERENCE
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ PREFACE 9
+ GOD'S MINISTER 11
+ THE WESTERN TRAIL 13
+ THE LONG TRAIL 19
+ THE DESERT 31
+ SAGEBRUSH 39
+ THE IRON TRAIL 47
+ A Railroad Saint in Idaho 49
+ An Unusual Kindness 59
+ INDIANS OF THE TRAIL 63
+ Introductory Words 65
+ Pocatello, the Chief 67
+ The Babyless Mother 72
+ Mary Muskrat 76
+ Bad Ben 79
+ A Three-Cornered Sermon 82
+ Three Years After 87
+ Chief Joseph and His Lost Wallowa 92
+ The White Man's Book 96
+ LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS 99
+ THE STAGECOACH 107
+ AMONG THE HILLS 117
+ The Mother Deer 119
+ The Shepherd 121
+ The Feathered Drummer 122
+ MORMONDOM 123
+ The Trail of the Mormon 125
+ Some Mormon Beliefs 131
+ Weber Tom, Ute Polygamist 138
+ Polygamy of To-Day 145
+ GREAT SALT LAKE 149
+ ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE 157
+ THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD 167
+ THE GREAT NORTHWEST 175
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+ J. D. Gillilan _Frontispiece_
+ Chief Joseph, Nez Perce Indian 64
+ Wallowa Lake 94
+ End of the Trail 183
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+In his young manhood the writer of these sketches came up into this
+realm of widest vision, clearest skies, sweetest waters, and happiest
+people to engraft the green twig of his life upon the activities of
+the mountaineers of the thrilling West.
+
+At that time the vast plains and the barren valleys were silvered over
+with the ubiquitous sage through which crept lazily and aimlessly the
+many unharnessed arroyo-making streams waiting only the appearance of
+their master, man. Under his scientific, skilled, and economic
+guidance these wild waters, lassoed, tamed, and set to work, taking
+the place of clouds where there are none, were soon to cause the gray
+garden of nature to become goldened by the well-nigh illimitable acres
+of grain and other home-making products.
+
+The West has an abundant variety of life of a sort most intensely
+human. Life, always so earnest in Anglo-Saxon lands, seems to have
+accentuated individuality here in a wondrous and contagious degree.
+
+These few stories, culled from the repertoire of an active life of
+more than thirty years, are samples of personal experiences, and are
+taken almost at random from mining camp, frontier town and settlement,
+public and private life.
+
+As a minister the writer has had wide and varied opportunities in all
+the Northwest, but more especially in Utah, Oregon, and Idaho. Many a
+man much more modest has far excelled him in life experiences, but
+some of them have never told.
+
+This little handful of goldenrod is affectionately dedicated to them
+of the Trails.
+
+ THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+GOD'S MINISTER
+
+ _Dedicated to the Mountain Ministers_
+
+ As terrace upon terrace
+ Rise the mountains o'er the humbler hills
+ And stretch away to dizzy heights
+ To meet heaven's own pure blue;
+ From thence to steal those soft and filmy clouds
+ With which to wrap their heads and shoulders--
+ Bare of other cloak--
+ Transforming them to rains and snows
+ To bless this elsewise desert world:
+
+ So, he who stands God's minister 'mong men,
+ High reaches out above all earthly things
+ And comes in contact with the thoughts of God;
+ Conveys them down in blessings to mankind--
+ Richest of blessings,
+ Holiest fruit of heaven--
+ Plucked fresh from off the Tree of Life
+ That springs hard by the Lamb's white throne,
+ And bears the plenteous leaves which grow
+ To heal the wounded nations.
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+ And step by step since time began
+ I see the steady gain of man.
+ --Whittier.
+
+
+
+
+THE WESTERN TRAIL
+
+
+"An overland highway to the Western sea" was the thought variously
+expressed by many men in both public and private life among the
+French, English, and Americans from very early times. In 1659 Pierre
+Radisson and a companion, by way of the Great Lakes, Fox, and
+"Ouisconsing" Rivers, discovered the "east fork" of the "Great River"
+and crossed to the "west fork," up which they went into what is now
+the Dakotas, only to find it going still "interminably westward."
+
+In 1766 Carver, an Englishman, went by the same route up the "east
+fork" to Saint Anthony Falls; thence he traveled to Canada, to learn
+from the Assiniboin Indians the existence of the "Shining Mountains"
+and that beyond them was the "Oregan," which went to the salt sea.
+
+As early as 1783 Thomas Jefferson wrote to George Rogers Clark to tell
+him he understood the English had subscribed a very large sum of
+money for exploration of the country west of the Mississippi, and as
+far as California. He even expressed himself as being desirous of
+forming a party of Americans to make the trip.
+
+Twenty years later, under the direction of _President_ Thomas
+Jefferson, General Clark was made a member of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition, which went up the "great river" and ultimately crossed
+through Montana and Idaho to the Columbia (Oregan?) and the "salt
+sea."
+
+Zebulon Pike was turned back by the imperious Rocky Mountains in 1806.
+A few years later Captain Bonneville braved the plains, the plateaus,
+the mountain passes, and the deserts, and saw the Columbia. Then
+continuous migrations finally fixed the overland highway known from
+ocean to ocean as the Oregon Trail.
+
+The Mormons followed this national road when they trekked to the
+valley of Salt Lake in 1847--a dolorous path to many.
+
+Because the Oregon Trail was nature's way, man and commerce made it
+their way. Road sites are not like city sites--made to order; they are
+discovered. For that reason the pioneer railway transcontinental also
+followed this trail. The Union Pacific marks with iron what so many of
+the emigrants marked with their tears and their graves. From the mouth
+of the Platte to the heart of the Rocky Mountains and beyond is a
+continuous cemetery of nameless tombs.
+
+The next few pages will give some sketches of fact depicting scenes of
+sunlight and shadow that fell on this highway in days not so very long
+agone.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+ Those mighty pyramids of stone
+ That wedge-like pierce the desert airs,
+ When nearer seen and better known
+ Are but gigantic flights of stairs.
+ --_Longfellow_.
+
+
+
+
+THE LONG TRAIL
+
+
+The Old Overland Trail from the Missouri River to the Willamette is a
+distance of nearly two thousand miles. Before Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman sanctioned its use for the migrating myriads of Americans
+seeking the shores of the sunset sea, trappers and adventurers, good
+and bad, had mapped out a general route over the wind-whipped passes,
+where the storm stands sentinel and guards the granite ways among the
+rough Rocky Mountains. They had followed the falls-filled Snake and
+the calmer Columbia, which plow for a thousand miles or more among
+basaltic bastions buttressing the mountain sides, or through the lava
+lands where cavernous chasms yawn and abysmal depths echo back the
+sullen roar of the raging rapids.
+
+In the early forties of the nineteenth century restless spirits
+from Missouri and eastward began to filter through the fingertips
+of the beckoning mountains of the West and locate in the land where
+storms seldom come and where the extremes of heat and cold are
+unknown--Willamette Valley, Oregon.
+
+In these early days, a farmer, whom we shall name Johnson, with wife
+and son, hoping to better conditions and prolong life, thus sought the
+goal toward the setting sun. Starting when the sturdy spring was
+enlivening all nature, they left the malarial marshes of the
+Mississippi Valley, where quinine and whisky for "fevernagur" were to
+be had at every crossroads store, and in a couple of weeks found
+themselves west of the muddy Missouri, where the herds of humped bison
+grazed as yet unafraid among the rolling, well-wooded hills of eastern
+Kansas.
+
+Barring a few common hindrances, they went well and reached the higher
+and hotter plains in midsummer; they were out of the sight of hills
+and trees--just one weary, eternal, unchangeable vista day after day.
+Mrs. Johnson had not been well, and after a few weeks that promised
+more for the future than they fulfilled, she began gradually to lose
+strength.
+
+But she was made of the uncomplaining material pioneers are wrought
+of, the ones who so lived, loved, and labored that the hard-earned
+sweets of civilization grew to highest perfection about their graves,
+and proved the most enduring monument to their memory. She never
+murmured other than to ask occasionally: "Father, how much farther?
+Isn't it a wonderfully long way to Oregon?"
+
+"Just over that next range of hills, I think, from what the trappers
+told me," was the reply, after they had come to the toes of the
+foothills that terminate the long-lying limbs of the giant Rockies.
+But he did not know the stealth of the mountains nor the fantastic
+pranks the canyony ranges can play upon the stranger. A snowy-haired
+peak, brother to Father Time, wearing a fringe of evergreens for his
+neckruff, would play hide-and-seek with them for days, dodging behind
+this eminence and hiding away back of that hill, only to reappear
+apparently as far off as ever, and sometimes in a different direction
+from where he last seemed to be.
+
+After a few more days: "Father, how many more miles do you think?"
+
+"O, not many now, I am sure!" cheerily and optimistically would come
+the answer.
+
+As they climbed, and climbed, and climbed, the ripening service-berry,
+blackened by weeks of attention by the unclouded sun, and the pine-hen
+and the speckled beauties from the noisy trout-streams, added to their
+comforts, and for a little while appeared to enliven the tired and
+fading woman. A frosty night or two, a peak newly whitened with early
+snow, put an invigorating thrill and pulse into the blood of the man
+and the boy, but she crept just a little nearer to the camp fire of
+evenings and found herself more and more languid in responding to the
+call of the day that returned all too soon for her. At last, rolling
+out on the Wahsatch side of the continental backbone, they encountered
+very warm but shortening days, while the nights grew chillier. Having
+passed to the north of Salt Lake by the trail so well and faithfully
+marked by Mr. Ezra Meeker in recent years, they began to realize that
+they were with the waters that flow to the west.
+
+One evening, after the tin plates, iron forks and knives, and the
+pewter spoons had been washed and returned to their box, and as they
+were getting ready for their nightly rest, Mrs. Johnson said, wearily:
+"Father, it just seems to me I would be glad if I never would waken
+again. It seems I would enjoy never again hearing the everlasting
+squeech, squeech of the wheels in the sand, and see the sun go down
+day after day so red and so far away over those new mountains. O, I am
+so tired!"
+
+"Never mind, mother, we are not far from our new home now;" and moving
+over to her side as she sat leaning against the wagon-tongue, the man
+slipped his own tired arm about her shoulders and let her rest against
+him, for he was indeed weary, and the trail _was_ wonderfully long.
+
+The following morning he purposely lay still just a little longer than
+was his custom, although he was most prudently desirous of making as
+much speed as he could while the weather continued so good; he knew
+the rains might soon set in and make travel over unmade roads much
+worse than it already was.
+
+When he arose he noiselessly crept away from her side and quietly
+called the boy to go and bring up the horses and the cow, cautioning
+him to take off the horse-bell and carry it so as not to arouse the
+mother when he came to camp. Quietly as possible he made the fire and
+prepared their breakfast of fare that was daily becoming scantier.
+Then, when all was ready, he tiptoed through the sand to where she lay
+under the spreading arms of a little desert juniper, such as are
+occasionally found in the deserts, and where she had said the night
+before she wished she could sleep forever. She looked so calm and
+restful he hesitated to wake her; it seemed like robbery to take from
+her one moment of the longed-for and hard-earned rest. Yet it was time
+they were on their road, and the day was fine; so after a few minutes
+he called, gently, "Mother, you're getting a nice rest, aren't you?"
+
+She did not stir. He then stooped to kiss the languid lips--they were
+cold. She was dead. They had been seeking a home by the shores of the
+sunset sea; she had found the sunrise land.
+
+It is a sad, solemn, and sacred thing to be with our dead, but to be
+alone, hundreds of miles from the face of any friend, in such an hour,
+is an experience few ever have to meet. Pioneer-like, the father scans
+the horizon, locating all the prominent features of the landscape. He
+makes a rude map, not forgetting the juniper. As best he can he
+prepares the body for the burying. And such a burying! No lumber with
+which to make even a rough box; nothing but their daily clothing and
+nightly bedding was to be had. The unlined grave was more than usually
+forbidding. The desert demon had trailed that brave body and was now
+swallowing it up. They made the grave by the juniper where she last
+slept, and, sorrowing, the father and the son went on, firm in the
+resolve that the loved one should not always lie in a desert grave.
+
+Forty years later a man past middle-age, riding a horse and leading
+another, to whose packsaddle was fastened a box, went slowly along
+that old trail in Southern Idaho, now almost obliterated by
+many-footed Progress. He was scanning the hills and consulting a piece
+of age-yellowed paper, broken at all its ancient creases. It was the
+son obeying the dying request of the old father--going to find, if
+possible, the spot where the tired mother went to sleep so long ago,
+and bring all that remained to rest by his side.
+
+It was no easy task. Fertile fields, whose irrigated areas now
+presented billowy breasts of ripening grain; mighty ditches like
+younger and better-behaved rivers; a railway following the general
+direction of the old trail; ranch-houses and fat haystacks indenting
+the sky-line once so bare of all except clumps of sagebrush--these all
+conspired to make the task next to impossible.
+
+Man may scratch the hillsides, but cannot mar the majesty of the
+mountains; they were unchanged. The map he carried was the one his
+father made on the spot more than a generation before. It had been
+well made and the specifications were minute. After a long while,
+carefully measuring and comparing, he found the spot to him so sacred.
+The juniper tree, so rare in that section, had not been disturbed by
+the new owner of the land, and as the precious burden, secured at
+last, was borne away, it still stood on guard--as if lonely now. Like
+father, like son. Both were faithfully bound by the strongest tie in
+the universe--love!
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+ Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+ And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
+ --_Gray_.
+
+ As geographers, Sosius, crowd into the edges of
+ their maps parts of the world which they do not
+ know about, adding notes in the margin to the
+ effect that beyond this lies nothing but sandy
+ deserts full of wild beasts, and unapproachable
+ bogs.
+ --_Plutarch_.
+
+
+
+
+THE DESERT
+
+
+Much of the Old Overland Trail lay across the "Great American Desert,"
+as it was named in the earlier geographies. Irrigation and progressive
+energy have made these wastes in many instances literally to "blossom
+as the rose"; but until that was done these stretches were weary
+enough.
+
+He who knows only the desert of the geography naturally conceives it
+an absolutely forsaken and empty region where nothing but dust-storms
+are born unattended and die "without benefit of the clergy." But the
+desert has character and is as variable as many another creature.
+
+
+THE SAND STORM
+
+
+An experience in an actual sand storm is food upon which the
+reminiscent may ruminate many a day, being much more pleasant in
+memory than in the making. First come the scurrying outriders, lithe
+and limber whisking gusts, dancing and whirling like Moslem
+dervishes, coyly brushing the traveler or boldly flinging fierce
+fistfuls of dirt into his eyes; then off with a swish of invisible
+skirts--vanishing possibly in the same direction whence they came.
+They go leaving him wiping his astonished eyes disgustedly, for the
+act was so sudden and tragic as to excite tears. Before he is aware of
+it other and stronger gusts duplicate the dastardly deed of the first
+wingless wizard of the plains, and the hapless voyager is left
+gasping. Almost immediately there are to be seen the regular "desert
+devils," as they are called, bringing a dozen or more whirling columns
+of yellow silt rapidly through the air, each pirouetting on one foot,
+assuming meanwhile all sorts of fantastic shapes.
+
+Now for the fierce onset. Like blasts of a blizzard, the shrapnel of
+the desert is hurled into eyes, face, ears, and nostrils; little
+rivers pour down the back and fill every discoverable wrinkle and
+cranny of the clothing with their gritty load.
+
+If in summer, buttoning the clothing is suffocation, and the
+perspiration soon makes one a mass of grime; if in winter, it is not
+so unbearable, for a comfortable fencing can be made against the sand
+and the cold.
+
+The whole landscape is obliterated by and by, and the trails are so
+often drift-filled that unless one is himself accustomed to such
+methods of travel or has an experienced plainsman as his driver and
+guide, there is danger of becoming lost, or so out of the way that
+night may overtake him and compel a waterless camp for himself and
+team.
+
+
+TWILIGHT AND DAWN
+
+
+But to see the morning slip off its night clothes and step out into
+daylight, or watch day don her night-wraps and snuggle down into
+twilight on the quiet sand-ocean! In summer it is a scene of splendor,
+often coming after a day or an evening of sandy wrath.
+
+At early dawn, lining the eastern horizon, are the soft pencils of
+bashful day over-topping the jagged sawteeth of the yet sleeping
+mountains, fifty or more miles away. A faint hinting of the lightening
+of the sky only deepens the blackness of the snow-streaked peaks. The
+cowardly coyote's yelp comes more and more faintly, the burrowing
+owl's "to-whit, to-whoo" falls dying on the moveless air, and the
+white sparrow of the sagebrush starts up as if to catch the early worm
+he is almost sure not to find. The loping jack rabbit slips softly to
+his greasewood shelter and the prairie dog bounces barking from his
+snake-infested haunt, noisily preparing for his day's digging and
+foraging.
+
+The stubborn mountains begin to let the sun's forerunning rays glide
+between them; the sky, now old gold, is fast transforming into
+kaleidoscopic crimsons and other reds, while the swift arms of the
+day-painter are reaching from between the peaks of the precipitous
+crags and dyeing the scales of the mackerel sky with hues and tints
+the rainbow would covet.
+
+In the opposite direction a morning mirage inverts an image of a
+stretch of trees along the far-away river and blends them top to
+top till they seem greenish-black columns supporting the dun clouds
+of the west, while the belated moon peers through the half-unreal
+corridors.
+
+
+SUNSET
+
+
+The sunset is far more gorgeous; it often reaches grandeur. Let it be
+a winter evening. A suggestion of storm has been playing threats. The
+western hills have reached up their time-toughened arms and carried
+the burnt-out lantern of day to bed, tucking him away in gold-lace
+tapestry and rose-tinted down. Then the blue, black, and brown clouds
+change quickly to purple, pink, and red by turns, and the opaline sky
+itself forms a background for the dissolving community of interlacing
+filaments of priceless filigree, till in time too full of interest to
+compute by measure, the whole heavens are aflame with a riotous orgy
+of color, a prodigality of shifting scene, making one think of the
+descriptions essayed by the writer of the Apocalypse.
+
+We think of Moses who wished to see God "face to face," but was told
+he would be permitted to behold only the "dying away of his glory." No
+wonder the man who was forty years in the wilderness before that grand
+exode, and forty more through the unsurveyed deserts, was enabled to
+write the majestic prose-poems that have lived unaltered through all
+these thousands of critical years! He was in the region where
+inspiration is dispensed with hands of infinite wealth. God is the
+dispenser.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+ This is the forest primeval.--_Longfellow_.
+
+ The continuous woods where rolls the Oregon.--_Bryant_.
+
+
+
+
+SAGEBRUSH
+
+
+Frequently within these pages mention has been made of the commonest
+of all our native plants on the Trail--sagebrush. Botanically, it is,
+_Artemisia tridentata_. The new Standard Dictionary defines sagebrush
+as "any one of the various shrubby species of Artemisia, of the aster
+family, growing on the elevated plains of the Western United States,
+especially _Artemisia tridentata_, very abundant from Montana to
+Colorado and westward." The leaf ends in three points; hence the
+adjective tridentata--the three-toothed artemisia.
+
+There are several varieties of sagebrush, and a person not well
+acquainted with the desert might easily mistake one for the other.
+There are the white sage, a good forage plant for sheep, and the
+yellow sage, which, when properly taken, can be made useful for
+cattle. Then there is the common variety, the sort named above. This
+is not to be mistaken for the prickly greasewood which infests the
+more alkaline regions; nor the rabbit-brush with its blossom so like
+the goldenrod, but with a very disagreeable odor. No man who knows
+will ever buy land where the greasewood grows thickly; it is
+unproductive because of the large percentage of alkali. But the
+ancient-looking sage is a pretty sure indication of fertility of soil.
+Mother Nature is sometimes hard pushed to find dresses for all her
+poorer areas; of course the better portions of the land east or west,
+north or south, care for their clothes better than do these arid
+stretches and the clothing is a richer vegetation.
+
+This ever-gray, little hunger-pinched pygmy among trees looks about as
+much like an oak as does a diminutive monkey like a grown man.
+
+A peculiarity of this individual in treedom is that it keeps its
+ash-colored leaf until it has a new set to put on in the spring, so
+that all winter long it presents the same color as it does in the
+summertime. Its bark is loose and shaggy, being shed rapidly, and
+gives one the thought of the old grape vine; hanging in bunches, the
+bole has always a ragged appearance. It is truly the dry-land plant,
+always found where the alkali or water is not too abundant; but in
+favored spots where there is only a little dampness and not too much
+fierceness of the summer heat it grows eight or ten feet high, making
+a body large enough for fence posts. This is extraordinary, for
+usually these Liliputian forests do not attain a height of more than
+four feet, and often much less. So diminutive are these solemn woods
+that the ordinary gang-plow can walk right through them, turning the
+shrubbery under like tall grass, although every tree is perfect, just
+like the dwarf creations produced by the resourceful Japanese.
+
+The seed of this tiny tree grows on stiff, upright filaments like the
+broom-corn straws. These stems are very bitter and are often used by
+the range-riders on long rides or roundups to excite the flow of
+saliva when thirst overtakes them too far from water. Because of its
+bitterness it is often called wormwood.
+
+Not many uses have been found for the wood of these primeval forests.
+In many sections the people have nothing but sagebrush for firewood.
+The whole tree is used, special stoves, or heaters, being made to
+accommodate the whole plant. It is gathered in the following manner:
+Two immense T-rails of railroad iron are laid side by side, one
+inverted, and securely fastened together; to the ends of these are
+hitched two teams of horses or mules, which pulling parallel to each
+other, are driven into the standing fairy forests and the swaths of
+fallen timber show the track of this unnatural storm. Its roots have
+such slight hold on the soil that it easily falls. Wagons and
+pitchforks follow, and the whole of the felling is hauled untrimmed to
+the home for hand-axing if too large; and it is all burned, top and
+root. There is so much vegetable oil in this queer plant that it makes
+a fine and very quick fire, green or dry.
+
+After a summer rain there is no aromatic perfume surpassing that of
+the odor of sagebrush filling the newly washed air. The mountaineer
+who has had to make a trip East gladly opens his window, as his train
+pushes back into the habitat of these aromatic shrubs, to get an
+early whiff of the health-laden, sage-sweetened atmosphere of the
+beloved Westland and homeland.
+
+
+
+
+THE IRON TRAIL
+
+ There are hermit souls that live withdrawn
+ In their houses of self-content;
+ There are souls like stars that dwell apart
+ In their fellowless firmament.
+ There are pioneer souls that blaze their paths
+ Where highways never ran.
+ But, let me live by the side of the road
+ And be a friend to man.
+ --Sam Walter Foss.
+
+
+
+
+A RAILROAD SAINT IN IDAHO
+
+
+The "railroad saint" was a locomotive engineer. His life was ever an
+open book, yet while careful and almost severe in his personal
+religious habits, he did not criticize the manners of his associates.
+He simply let his well kept searchlight shine.
+
+Though born in Ohio, his boy life was spent mainly in Nebraska, when
+it was just emerging from the ragged swaddlings of rough frontierdom;
+and during his young manhood he lived in Wyoming, at the time when men
+"carried the law in their hip-pockets," as he graphically expressed
+it.
+
+Early becoming an employee of the Union Pacific, he was a permanent
+portion of its westward intermountain extension, and he did his life's
+work among the scenic cliffs and clefts of the picturesque crags and
+corrugated canyons of the wrinkled ridges in the Rocky and the Wahsatch
+ranges. Opportunities for literary education were very limited to one
+so engaged, and little more than what was absolutely necessary to the
+railmen did he receive. But he was not ignorant by any means. In later
+years he read extendedly and with careful discrimination. He had a
+poet's soul, but was not visionary.
+
+His mother had been a careful and sensible Christian. The indelible
+impress she left upon him was like to that given by Jochebed to her
+son Moses. He never wholly escaped from her hallowed influence,
+although he descended into vicious living and became a notorious and
+blatant blasphemer, sceptic, and drunkard.
+
+Once when attending a national convention of railway engineers in an
+Eastern city he noticed a little flower boy vainly attempting to
+dispose of his roses. Our engineer (who always had a feeling for the
+"other fellow") paid the lad for all he had left and directed him to
+carry them to the hotel where the delegates were stopping, and give
+them to the ladies in the parlor. This act was repeated on successive
+days. It attracted attention finally, and one of the delegates asked
+him if he were a Christian. Characteristically he blurted out: "Do
+you see anything about me that indicates it? If so, I will take it off
+at once. Why do you ask such a question?"
+
+"Because," said the questioner, "your kindness to that pale-faced
+little flower boy makes people think you are."
+
+"Nothing at all queer about that," was the quick reply. "Common
+humanity should dictate such deeds. If I myself wanted a favor, I'd
+not go to any Christian for it; I'd rather tackle a bartender or a
+gambler."
+
+"Well, Dr. T----, of the Methodist Church, has heard of you," remarked
+his questioner, "and he says he would like to meet you for an hour or
+so before you leave the city."
+
+"But I've no desire to meet any preacher, though if it will afford the
+gentleman any pleasure, I will gladly do it for that reason and no
+other. What do you suppose he wants?"
+
+The intermediary arranged a time of meeting, and after introducing the
+men, left the "eagle eye" in the pleasant study of the minister, a
+pastor of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. After a few minutes
+of easy conversation, the minister abruptly cut all Gordian knots and
+said: "Mr.----, are you a Christian?"
+
+"No, sir, not so you can notice it."
+
+"Why are you not?"
+
+"Why should I be?"
+
+"It gives to every one who embraces true religion a better, broader,
+worthier view and conception of life."
+
+"Wherein, mister?"
+
+"It puts purpose into his life and interprets the end to which he is
+tending."
+
+Then came up from the keen intellect-quiver of our Rocky Mountain
+engineman all the stock phrases, replies, and arguments of Voltaire,
+Rousseau, Ingersoll, and others whose writings he knew perfectly.
+
+With Christian and cultivated patience the minister listened and then
+said with captivating and sympathetic tenderness: "But, my dear sir,
+that is all speculation on the part of those scholarly and eloquent
+men whom you quote so accurately. They know no better. The religion of
+Jesus is not speculation; it is practical knowledge. Would not you,
+sir, like to know personally as to its truth?"
+
+"Yes, but how can I?"
+
+His foot had been taken in the snare of the wise trapper.
+
+Said the preacher: "You can; and this is the way. As you leave this
+city for your return to the West, get a cheap New Testament; indeed,
+here is a copy; please accept it. Tear it in two in the middle,
+retaining only the four Gospels--Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Read
+them; you will by yourself and by this means find the way to perfect
+knowledge."
+
+He of the throttle, hungry for the deepest knowledge, did as directed
+and advised.
+
+Back to his cab and engine he went, under the deepest conviction. Yet
+he declared that he needed no extraneous assistance to be as good as
+any Christian; Jesus he considered a superfluity, and said so. The
+negative influences of the atheistic authors yet warped him. He said:
+"I dare any of you to watch me. I can and will be as upright as any
+Christian on earth." But after a short time of exemplary conduct, he
+would wake up some morning only to discover to his hearty disgust that
+he had been on an extended period of dissipation. Later he would
+attempt another straightening-up and try to "be good" without the
+necessary becoming so, only to fall again and harder than before.
+
+Once, after such humiliating debauch, he entered a saloon which
+contained the only barber shop in the village, the railway division
+point where he had his "layovers" for regular rest. He sat down for
+his daily shave. It was the morning after pay-day among the employees,
+and, as he stated it to the writer, "everybody, even the barber, had
+been drunk." Cigar stumps, empty bottles, cards, and other plentiful
+signs of the previous night's carousals covered the floor with
+bacchanalian litter. Lying there, eyes shut, an Armageddon was taking
+place on the stage of his perturbed soul. His story is this:
+
+"While lying there that morning a voice said to me, 'You are not a
+square-dealer.' I opened my eyes on the barber, only to see a bloated
+face with impassive and mute lips; he had said nothing, I could easily
+see. I closed my eyes again, only to hear, 'You do not treat me as you
+would a gentleman.' I now knew that the voice was that of an unseen
+person, and I replied mentally but really. 'Who are you, and what do
+you want?' 'I am Jesus, whom you deny without having known, and
+condemn without having attempted to prove. You have been saying all
+the while you can succeed without my assistance, and you know you have
+failed every time. All I want is a chance in your life that I may
+prove myself to you.' Then I replied, 'If this is what you want, just
+come in and we will talk it over.' He then came in never to go out
+again. I went to my little shack-room and, locking the door, took out
+of a little old hair-covered trunk a Bible my mother had given me; it
+had lain there for thirty long years untouched. I opened it and read a
+while and then got down on my knees to pray. What I said was about
+like this: 'Lord, if it is really the Lord who was talking to me (I
+have my doubts), you know I am a man of my word, and you can trust me.
+I want to make you a proposition: I'll do the square thing by you if
+you'll do the same by me. Amen!'"
+
+"This," said he, "was the beginning of the struggle for rest to my
+soul; and I found it."
+
+An incident leading to his immediate, possibly ultimate safety, was a
+conversation in a saloon. It does not always transpire that we are
+benefited by the act of the talebearer, but in this case it was highly
+salutary. One of his engineer friends, drinking at the bar, said:
+"Never fear about H----. He will soon get over all this and be along
+with us as usual."
+
+Hearing it, he became very righteously indignant and said: "By the
+grace of God, never! I'll go up to the church my wife attends and join
+with her, and when they know I am a church member they'll let me
+alone." He did so at once. He was saved. He lived for many years,
+always happy, always helpful, and without fear he ascended the snowy
+hills of old age, with their enveloping mists.
+
+Afflicted with a creeping paralysis, he lingered long, ever cheerful,
+and interested in his friends, to whom he sent many messages. To his
+brothers of the Odd Fellows he sent this message: "Boys, I'll not see
+you any more. I am just like a boy at Christmas Eve, who with
+stocking hung up, is anxious for daylight. The shadows have come over
+me. My stocking is hung up by the Father's fireplace and I am almost
+impatient for the morning. I haven't the remotest idea what I will
+get, but I am sure it will be something good." A few days before his
+translation he was visited by one of his old-time railway associates,
+who said to him: "H----, you are now up against the real thing,
+according to your belief; and it looks to us the same, just as if you
+would have to go some one of these days. How does it seem? What is it
+like?"
+
+Looking at the questioner lovingly, the dying man said, "Charley,
+you've worked for the railway company a long time, and never had many
+promotions, have you?"
+
+"Yes, about twenty years--and no promotions."
+
+"Well, Charley, suppose there'd come to you to-day a wire from
+headquarters saying there's a big promotion waiting for you on your
+arrival, and at the same time a pass for your free transportation. How
+do you think that would seem to you?"
+
+"My soul, but that'd be fine," said he.
+
+"Well, Charley, that's just my case exactly," said the radiant man.
+"I've been working for God and his company for about that same length
+of time and never had much promotion so far as I could see, and now I
+have a summons direct from the glory land telling me there's a big
+advancement for me, and it sounds mighty good."
+
+He was dressed for the wedding, the Christmas morning, or whatever
+awaited him, and was anxious that the couriers of the King should
+come. When the moment came the old engineer's headlight was undimmed,
+the switch signals showed green, and when he called for the last board
+at the home station the signal came back: "All's well; come on in."
+
+He had received his coveted promotion.
+
+
+
+
+AN UNUSUAL KINDNESS
+
+
+ That best portion of a good man's life--
+ His little, nameless, unremembered acts
+ Of kindness and of love.
+ --Wordsworth.
+
+The Methodist locomotive engineer had died joyful. "I am so glad to
+go," he said. "I am like a boy when there's a circus in town; I've got
+the price, and my baggage is checked clear through."
+
+I was holding a memorial service for him in his old home town, and at
+the close a big, broad-shouldered man came forward to the altar rail
+and quietly said, "You did not know that man."
+
+The remark startled me a little, for I had been acquainted with him
+for many years; in fact, had once been his pastor.
+
+"I thought I did," replied I.
+
+"No, you never really knew him," was the insistent rejoinder; "let me
+tell you something about him. Years ago I was not living as I ought,
+and I had all sorts of trouble. My wife was very sick, and we were
+living in a bit of a shack back here a little way where she finally
+died. I was down and out. The fellows wanted to be good to me, and
+they were--in their way of thinking--but it did me no good. They would
+say, 'Come, brace up, old fellow, have a drink and forget your
+troubles.' But there are some troubles drink will not drown; mine was
+one of them.
+
+"One night our friend came up to my shack, and having visited a while
+he said: 'Old man, you're up against it hard, ain't you?' I replied,
+'Yes, I am, just up to the limit.' 'Well, let's pray about it.' I told
+him I didn't believe in prayer. 'All right,' said he, 'I do, and I'll
+pray any way.' You should have heard the prayer he made. It was about
+like this: 'God, here's my friend, Charley; he's in an awful fix.
+We'll have to do something for him. I've done all I can; now, it's up
+to you to see him through. Amen.'
+
+"Then he arose from his knees and, handing me his check book, he said,
+'My wife and I ain't got much, only a couple o' thousand in the bank;
+but here's this check book all signed up; take it and use it all if
+you need it, and God bless you!'
+
+"But," added the narrator of the story, "I couldn't use money like
+that."
+
+The tears were fast falling over his bronzed cheeks as he told with
+tenderness the story, and as I looked into his eyes I knew that
+through knowledge of the dead engineer's kingly kindness had come to
+him the knowledge of the new life.
+
+
+
+
+INDIANS OF THE TRAIL
+
+ Man's inhumanity to man
+ Makes countless thousands mourn.
+ --_Burns_.
+
+[Illustration: CHIEF JOSEPH, NEZ PERCE INDIAN]
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY WORDS
+
+
+Indian character is human character because the Indian is human. Being
+human he is susceptible to all human teaching and experiences. None
+yields more readily to love and kindness.
+
+Few can speak of the Indian with absolute propriety, for very few know
+him. To the mind of most Americans, I venture to say, the very name
+"Indian" suggests scalpings, massacres, outrages of all kinds and an
+interminable list of kindred horrors; all too true. But it must be
+remembered that the Indian presented to his first discoverers a race
+most tractable, tenderhearted, and responsive to kindness. He was
+indeed the child of the plain, but a loving child.
+
+The chevaliers both of Spanish and English blood taught him in the
+most practical manner the varied refinements of deceit, treachery, and
+cruelty. He was an apt scholar, and the devotee of social heredity,
+which has here so striking an example, cannot curse the redman if the
+sins of the fathers are meted out to succeeding generations.
+
+Under definite heads I am giving some very brief sketches of living,
+down-to-date aborigines, such as have come under my own observation in
+Utah and Idaho.
+
+
+
+
+POCATELLO, THE CHIEF
+
+
+ The nodding horror of whose shady brows
+ Threats the forlorn and wandering passenger.
+ --_Milton_.
+
+Fort Hall Reservation, until 1902, embraced a large territory of which
+Pocatello was the center. These Idaho red people are the remnants of
+the once powerful tribes of the Bannocks and Shoshones, which ranged
+from the Blue Mountains in Oregon to the backbone of the Rocky
+Mountains. The compressing processes used by the aggressive white
+people have encircled, curtailed, and squeezed their borders so that
+now they are centered at Fort Hall, half way between Pocatello and
+Blackfoot. Here the government has a school for them, and the
+Protestant Episcopal Church a mission.
+
+Pocatello is named for a wily old chief of that name, who became an
+outlaw to be reckoned with. He once led a cavalcade of his sanguinary
+followers against the newly made non-Mormon town of Corinne, Utah;
+but a Mormon who had been notified of the proposed massacre, by a
+coreligionist, likewise told a friend among the Gentiles, and a
+precautionary counter plan was formulated. Nothing more came of it
+than an evening visit from Brigham Young and his staff, who, as
+reported, pronounced and prophesied an awful and exterminating curse
+upon the town and people. However, because of the warning, his curses
+went elsewhere.
+
+Until recently there lived in the region of the city of Pocatello an
+old squaw-man (white man with an Indian wife). His home was within the
+borders of the reservation, and he had been there since before the
+time when the boundary line between the United States and England
+(Canada) was settled. The old man was called "Doc," and once when
+visiting him I said, "Tell me about old Pocatello, Doc, and what
+became of him."
+
+The old man, half reclining on the pile of household debris in one
+corner of his shanty, permitted me to sit by the door--for there were
+no chairs in the place. The four corners were occupied as follows: in
+one were his saddle and accouterments for range work; in another the
+accumulation of rags and blankets on which he slept (for he lived
+alone now, the wife being dead); in another was his little stove, and
+the last held the door where I sat. The air was fresher there, I
+thought. The veteran of eighty or more years, bronzed by the winds and
+roughened by the sweeping sands of the desert, lighted his pipe and
+said: "It war in the days o' them freighters who operated 'tween
+Corinne an' Virginny City when Alder Gulch was a-goin' chock full o'
+business. The Forwardin' Company hed a mighty big lot o' rollin' stock
+an' hosses to keep the traffic up. The hull kentry was Injun from
+put-ni' Corinne to that there Montanny town. The Bear Rivers an' the
+Fort Hall tribes, the Bannocks an' the Blackfeet uste to make life
+anything but a Fourth-o'-July picnic fer them fellers an' their
+drivers. Right h'yur was the natterelest campin' place fer the
+Company, or, ruther, a natterel spot fer the stage-station, where they
+could git the stock fresh an' new an' go on, as they hed to do, night
+an' day, so's to keep business a-movin', ye see. Fer 'twas a mighty
+long rout fer passengers.
+
+"Now, Pocatello an' his bunch o' red devils got into the habit o'
+runnin' off the stock, an' sometimes the Company'd haf to wait half a
+day to git enough teams to go on north; or to wait till the fagged
+ones'd git a little rest an' then push on wi' the same ones. Mr.
+Salisbury, of Salt Lake, was the head o' the Forwardin' Company, an'
+he an' his people got mighty all-fired tired o' that sort o' business.
+Hosses was dear them days, but Injuns was cheap; so he told a lot o'
+us'ns he'd like tarnation well if this sort o' thing'd stop kind o'
+sudden like; an' we planned it might be done jist that way too.
+
+"We kind o' laid low, an' nothin' happened fer quite a while; but one
+night a fine bunch o' hosses was run off jist when they's a big lot o'
+treasure goin' over the line, an' the management was sure mad. They
+told us 'uns agin somethin' had to be done, an' despert quick this
+time. So we got busy. We begun to round ol' Pocatello up, an' he
+seemed to smell a rat or somethin' wuss, an' started up Pocatello
+Crick yander, that there canyon, see? He went almighty fast too when he
+got started; so did we, now I tell you, an' we jist kep' a-foller'n',
+an' foller'n', an' foller'n', we did--a hull lot ov us--an'--an'--an'
+Pocatello never come back."
+
+Then the old squaw-man tapped the ashes from his pipe, and rising
+said, "Well, I guess I'll cinch up the cayuse an' ride some this
+a'ternoon."
+
+
+
+
+THE BABYLESS MOTHER
+
+ Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted,
+ because they are not.--_Saint Matthew_.
+
+
+One of the many signs that the Indian is human is his slowness to
+learn. Ever since 1492 the whiter man has been trying to force some
+supposedly useful things into the mind of him of the darker skin. One
+of these is that he of the blanket has no rights that he of the dress
+coat is bound to respect. The Indian rises in practical debate to this
+question. His arguments are not words, but the rifle and the
+scalping-knife. The whiter man demurs when he receives his justice
+dished up to him in redskin style.
+
+It is unreasonable to the Indian that the white man should take from
+him his hunting grounds and limit his access to the very streams
+whence his people for ages uncountable filled their pantries for the
+winter. He has learned to his disgust (without place for repentance)
+that equivalents are equivocations, and that the little baubles the
+fathers of the tribes had for their broad acres were mostly worthless.
+The civilized trick of procuring the mystic sign manual known as
+signature had fastened on them the gyves of perpetual poverty.
+
+In addition to this, the nation demanded they should send their
+children to the white man's school in the far, far away Eastern land,
+where they could not see them and from which so many of the red-faced
+lads and lassies returned with that dread disease, pulmonary
+tuberculosis. But they were only Indians, and what rights had they?
+When boys and girls were not promptly surrendered, the soldiers were
+sent to chase them down. It would not seem good to us to have big,
+brawny Indians on horseback give chase to our children, and catch and
+tie them like so many hogs, to be carted off to a land unknown to us;
+but then these are only Indians. That makes all the difference
+imaginable.
+
+Some years ago the Fort Hall Indians went on their usual trip to the
+edge of Yellowstone Park--Jackson's Hole--for the purpose of laying in
+their annual supply of elk and bear meat. The government had forbidden
+this, yet they went, with their indispensable paraphernalia and camp
+equipage, taking the squaws (and papooses, of course) to dress and
+care for whatever of provision fell into their hands.
+
+When it was discovered that the Indians had gone in the face of the
+prohibitory order the soldiers were sent to drive them out. Such
+racing and chasing! "Wild horse, wild Indian, wild horseman," as
+Washington Irving puts it. Every man and woman for himself now.
+Papooses were slung on the saddle-horns of their mothers' horses, a
+loop being fastened to the back of the board to which every little
+copperfaced tike was strapped. In one of the hard flights through the
+thickly fallen and storm-twisted pines, firs, and chaparral a mother,
+pressed too hard by the soldiers and cavalry, lost her baby.
+
+Her tribal friends ventured back after all was safe, and with an
+Indian's trail-finding tact hunted high and low, far and wide, but no
+trace was ever found of the wee baby.
+
+"But, then, what mattered it? It was nothing but an Indian baby, and
+its mother only an Indian squaw! Who cares for a squaw any way?"
+
+
+
+
+MARY MUSKRAT
+
+ Now abideth faith, hope, love, these three; and the greatest of
+ these is love.--_Saint Paul_.
+
+
+When the "teacher" first went among the Indians at Fort Hall her
+reception was neither cordial nor cold, for she was not received at
+all. She had not been invited and she was not welcome. For the
+first eighteen months after reaching the fort she could often hear
+in the nighttime the movement of a moccasin, as some tired Indian
+spy changed his cramped position, for she was religiously watched
+and irreligiously suspected. They could not understand why she, an
+unmarried white woman, should leave her home and spend time among
+them.
+
+The braves strode by her in sullen silence, eloquently impressing
+their contumelious hauteur. The no less stolid squaws, who observe
+everything and see nothing, disdainfully covered their faces with
+their blankets or looked in silence in the opposite direction when
+the teacher met them or lifted the tent-flap.
+
+After a long time she won her way with some of the wee ones, and thus
+touched the hearts of the mothers, through whom she made a road broad
+and wide into the affections of the tribe. They trusted her with the
+secrets of the people, and she was at home in every teepee in the
+reservation. Gathering the girls together, she taught them the
+beautiful words of the Bible, and for many years she lived, loved, and
+labored there.
+
+Mary Muskrat was one of the Bannock girls in the mission school. The
+little shrinking, more-than-half-wild papoose of the desert had been
+toilsomely but surely trained by the teacher, that bravest of little
+women.
+
+Pulmonary consumption is the bane of the civilized Indians. It carries
+them off in multitudes. Despite their outdoor living, it seems that
+few, if any, ever recover from an attack. The dread disease had
+fastened itself upon Mary and she was sick unto death. Her little
+shack was no fit place for a living person, and here was one dying.
+Frequent visits from her teacher afforded the dying maiden her only
+relief. Once, after watching her through a severe paroxysm of
+coughing, it seemed that life had gone completely. Removing the
+squalid bunch of rags which served as a pillow, and lowering the head,
+the devoted teacher stood watching the supposed lifeless form. But she
+saw the lips moving, and, bending low, she heard the dying girl
+whisper, "What time I am afraid I will trust in Thee." Continuing, she
+breathed out, "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.... Yea,
+though I walk through the valley and the shadow of death, I will fear
+no evil." Pausing, while the heart of the white woman was praising God
+for his goodness to the dusky child, Mary opened her beautiful eyes,
+and, seeing her protectress and benefactress standing there, said, "O,
+dear teacher, the Lord is my shepherd."
+
+Then the Shepherd came and took her to dwell in the house of the Lord
+forever.
+
+
+
+
+BAD BEN
+
+ A little child shall lead them.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+Ben's daughter, Mary[1], was the delight of the old man's heart. She
+had been taken most unwillingly, so far as both were concerned, and
+placed in one of the Eastern schools for Indian youths. Ben had
+objected strenuously, but the stronger arm prevailed.
+
+The teacher at the mission had never in all her many years in that
+place felt fear until after Mary was taken away. When the father would
+come to the school to ask for news of her, he had his face painted
+black, indicating madness or war--"bad heart" he called it. The little
+woman who had won the hearts of the people did not know what the
+enraged man might do or when he would do it. Once, after many such
+terrifying visits, he volunteered the information that he was making
+him a house and a farm "all same witee man." He had built it of some
+railroad ties he had found and had begun to cultivate a garden and cut
+some wild hay. "Me makee heap good wikiup, all same witee man; Mary he
+all same witee squaw, by 'um by."
+
+The white plague is the only disease the Indian fears or calls
+sickness. Once, when Ben went to the school where a dozen or so other
+happy-faced little girls were being taught and prepared for the
+Eastern school, Miss F---- was obliged to tell him Mary was sick. For
+a while his savagery was apparently renewed. He became wild again. His
+visits increased in frequency, and all the time the teacher was in
+mental torture, for he seemed to feel that the white woman was in some
+manner connected with his child's going away and her present
+condition.
+
+The dread day came when she must tell the loving father that there was
+now no hope for his "lil' gal," as he affectionately called her. Then
+another more dreaded day rolled round, and the last story must be
+told: Mary had died. She would be buried in the far east. Poor old
+father! He could not even see her then. How could he be made to
+understand?
+
+The only solution of the problem was the holding of a memorial service
+for her. One of the Pocatello pastors went up to hold such a service
+at the Agency and Ben was present. He was told that if he lived with
+his heart clean, "no have bad heart," he would see his Mary again. No
+one could tell to what extent this message found place in his mind
+until later. One day he was seen approaching the mission school slowly
+and apparently sorrowful. Miss F---- met him at the door. On entering
+he said, "O, Miss F----, bad Injun no liky me have hay, no liky me
+have wikiup all same witee man. Bad Injun burn me up; all me wikiup,
+all me hay, all me everyt'ing. But me no have bad heart [that means,
+"I do not hate them"], me no have bad heart, Miss F----; me no have
+bad heart; me want see my lil' gal some day."
+
+So the lonesome man went away to his one-time home to try to live
+among the unchristian and unprogressive Indians without having any
+hatred toward them, for he wanted to meet his Mary.
+
+-----
+
+ [1] Mary is a very frequent name among the Bannocks of Fort Hall.
+
+
+
+
+A THREE-CORNERED SERMON
+
+ So shall my word be that goeth forth out of my mouth: it shall not
+ return unto me void, but it shall accomplish that which I please,
+ and it shall prosper in the thing whereto I sent it.--_Isaiah_.
+
+ Thy word, Almighty Lord,
+ Where'er it enters in
+ Is sharper than a two-edged sword
+ To slay the man of sin.
+ --_Montgomery_.
+
+
+A peculiar wireless telegraphy has ever been in vogue among the
+aborigines of many lands. The interior tribes of Africa have it and
+use it to perfection. The plains Indians and those of the mountains
+know its use, and messages are sent which cause much wonderment to the
+white man.
+
+In 1899 the ghost-dancing was in progress among all the Indians of the
+United States. All Indiandom was excited to the highest degree.
+Disturbances among them were watched and feared by the government. The
+Bannocks and Shoshones of Fort Hall were nerved to a high tension and
+quickly athrill to any new movement. Hearing that an unusual interest
+was being displayed among the Nez Perces of the north, a committee of
+the Fort Hall men was sent to ascertain what it was. It proved to be a
+revival of religion conducted by the Presbyterians. The committee was
+composed of heathens, but they saw, were conquered, and came home
+reporting it was good, and requested that there be similar meetings
+held among them. It was so planned and arranged. A Nez Perce
+Presbyterian minister was to be their visitant evangelist.
+
+The various Protestant churches in Pocatello had been by turns
+supplying preaching to the people of Fort Hall's tribes, and to the
+whites who were the residents at Ross Fork, the seat of the Agency. On
+the particular evening when the special meetings were to begin it was
+the turn of the writer to preach. The Rev. James Hays, a full-blood
+Nez Perce, was there as evangelist. But he could not speak a word of
+the Bannock-Shoshone mixed jargonized dialect. He had been educated in
+English and could understand me so as to interpret, rather translate
+into Nez Perce, but who could reach the people to whom we had the
+message? There was present a renegade fellow, Pat Tyhee (big Pat, or
+chief Pat), _not an Irishman_. He was a Shoshone who years before had
+gone to live among the Nez Perces and had married a woman of them. He
+could interpret Hays, but could he be trusted? He was a very
+heathenish heathen. The missionary teacher, Miss Frost, consulted with
+Mr. Hays and myself as to the wisdom of asking Pat to play interpreter
+for the momentous occasion; after fervently praying we concluded to
+take the risk and trust to God's leading. Pat, the heathen, was
+chosen. It was a queer audience. There were some whites, some Indians.
+It was odd to see Gun, the Agency policeman, there with his only
+prisoner. There were Billy George, the tribal judge; and Hubert
+Tetoby, the assistant blacksmith, as well as others of local
+importance. To add to the excitement of the evening, it was the night
+before ration day at the Agency, when all the Indians from the entire
+Reservation were present--fifteen hundred of them--for their share.
+It was a wild time--the raw blanketed man was there for a Saturnalia.
+He knew no law but his desires. The unprotected young woman had no
+security from him. Indeed, while we were gathering in the mission
+house for this service, I noticed a slight stirring at my feet, and
+looked, and there was Mary, a young widow, who had scuttled in silent
+as a partridge and was snuggling down on the floor just back of my
+feet, successful in getting away from some red Lothario who had
+pursued her to the door.
+
+The service began. I preached from the words of Martha to Mary, "The
+Master is come and is calling for thee." It was an attempt to show
+that Jesus needs us as living agents to work with him. Mr. Hays, I
+suppose, and always have believed, translated to Pat in Nez Perce what
+I said. Pat in turn interpreted to the assembled band of mixed
+Indians. To be sure, I understood not a thing either said: but when I
+looked at the earnest, love-ridden, and sweat-covered face of the
+yearning Nez Perce, I believed that what he was saying was all I said
+and more. And Pat--he was a sight! Had his hands been tied, I really
+believed he could not have expressed himself at all. He is about six
+feet six in his moccasins, and those long arms accompanied the lengthy
+guttural expressions in an intensely effective manner. At the close of
+the three-cornered sermon the question was asked, "How many of you
+from this time forward are willing to follow Jesus and be known as his
+assistants?" Among the most prominent and enthusiastic replies that
+came were those of Hubert Tetoby, Billy George, _and Pat Tyhee, the
+heathen interpreter_. Looking me straight in the eyes, swerving
+neither to the one side nor the other, these madly-in-earnest men of
+the mountains held their hands up high as they could reach them. And
+in six weeks from that date there was a Presbyterian church there
+composed of sixty-five members, of whom only one, the teacher, Miss
+Frost, was white; and Pat Tyhee was made one of the elders. There had
+been no Christians there at all before those meetings. It was an
+Indian Pentecost.
+
+
+
+
+THREE YEARS AFTER
+
+ Father of all! in every age,
+ In every clime adored,
+ By saint, by savage, and by sage,
+ Jehovah, Jove, or Lord.
+ --_Alexander Pope_.
+
+
+Some hypercritical person, and possibly some sincere soul, may ask:
+"Did such revival do any permanent good? Does not the so-near savage
+easily backslide?" To this may be given this partial reply: It depends
+somewhat on the sort of white folks there are in the immediate
+vicinity. As elsewhere stated in these pages, the pale face has been
+the great undoer of the red man. "Civilization" in some garbs is worse
+than savagery. The white skin has been the password for some awful
+systems of debauchery among the aborigines of America. An Indian
+speaker, and chief of police of one of the Indian reservations of
+Oregon, said at the Second World's Christian Citizenship Conference in
+Portland, 1913: "Before the white man came the Indian had no jails or
+locks on their doors. The white man brought whisky; there is now need
+of both jails and locks."
+
+About three years after the meeting at Fort Hall, where the
+three-cornered sermon was delivered, Mr. Roosevelt made a visit to the
+West. Major A. F. Caldwell, Agent of Indian Affairs at Fort Hall, told
+the fourteen hundred red natives that if they would turn out in their
+handsomest manner, he would give them all a "big eat" after the visit.
+Promptly on the day designated the famous rough rider and the desert
+riders were in evidence, the latter in abundance. They went far out
+along the railway to meet the train, and then galloped their wiry,
+pintoed ponies along by the side of the car, performing many feats of
+daring horsemanship, throwing themselves from the flying bronchos and
+remounting without a pause, and other stunts which they invented.
+After the "pageant had fled" the expectant and hungry Indians were
+herded into a large vacant lot in Pocatello, where all sorts of
+provisions had been collected for the feast. I was anxious to see
+them, and so were many other equally bold and possibly a wee bit
+impolite people, for when they had assembled a great crowd of curious
+white folks was there gazing.
+
+The Young Men's Christian Association secretary and I overlooked the
+scene from a hotel whose wall formed one side of the enclosure where
+the long tables of loose planks were laid. All was hurry, bustle, and
+confusion, not much unlike what everyone has witnessed at the ordinary
+picnic.
+
+The Christians and the non-Christians had divided as though not of the
+same tribe or blood. These had their tables on one side, those on the
+opposite. When all was ready the savage part of the divided company
+fell to with vim, vigor, and haste, just as white people often do at
+outdoor dinners; but see the others! After all had been carefully
+spread, odorous cans of tempting viands opened, and everything
+adjusted, the hungry horde was seated. A low word of attention was
+given by some one; every head was bowed, quiet was absolute, and Billy
+George in guttural tones said something the Lord of all could
+understand. When he was through these also fell to with an
+unmistakable zest and the day ended merrily for the Indians and
+profitably for some of the onlookers.
+
+This Billy George was crippled by the bullets of some of the
+reservation Indians who did not like his progressive ways. He had lost
+one leg for this reason. One night, as he was fastening up his
+animals, he stooped to lift one of the bars of his corral. Just as he
+raised himself, a shot that was doubtless meant for his lowered head
+struck his leg and it had to be amputated.
+
+On the night of his conversion, when he had raised his hand high as he
+could reach, he in the after meeting mimicked the white folks who had
+slowly and with many side-lookings so slightly moved their hands
+upward. He said, "Huh, white folks heap scared, do this way;" and he
+imitated them grotesquely.
+
+Often when leaving his teepee for the hills in order to haul his
+winter wood, he would go to the home of Miss F----, the missionary,
+and tell her he was going away, and at the same time asking her to be
+sure to care for his squaw and papooses if he did not return; for,
+said he, "Bad Injun ketchy me some day; no liky me; you savy me liky
+whity man."
+
+So fair of mind was he, and so humanely progressive, that the
+government had chosen him as one of the men before whom petty cases
+among the tribe were taken. If he could not solve the problems, they
+were then carried to the Agent; then on up if not there adjusted.
+
+When the Presbyterian Missionary Board assisted these Christians to
+build a neat house of worship it was, and still is, known far and near
+as Billy George's Church.
+
+
+
+
+CHIEF JOSEPH AND HIS LOST WALLOWA
+
+ Land where my fathers died.--_Smith_.
+
+
+A Cornishman was once asked why there were no public houses (saloons)
+in his town. He replied, "Once a man by the name of John Wesley
+preached here, and there have been none since."
+
+Once a man by the name of General O. O. Howard passed through eastern
+Oregon and northern Idaho, and the country has not been the same
+since. The occasion was the uprising of the Nez Perces Indians in
+1877. Ridpath, the historian, tells of the long chase of the red men
+and the weary pursuit of "sixteen hundred miles." It was truly a
+Fabian retreat on the part of Chief Joseph and his band, but General
+Howard was dealing mercifully with them; at a dozen places he could
+have given battle, but he spared the useless slaughter, avoiding the
+needless scaring of the white settlers and the complement of dire
+scenes and death that would necessarily follow.
+
+The story of Chief Joseph is one of the most interesting unwritten
+chapters in the history of the great Northwest. The fact of the
+capture of this wily Indian leader with most of his band is well
+known. They were banished from the Alpine regions of eastern Oregon
+and compelled to make their home across the marble canyon of the Snake
+in the State of Idaho, far from their loved Wallowa.
+
+The valley of Wallowa (an Indian name) is one of the most beautiful
+spots imaginable. At its southern end stand pillared peaks, eternally
+snow-crowned, rivaling the finest to be seen in Switzerland. Here lies
+the limpid, glassy Lake Wallowa, near the busy town of Joseph, so
+named in honor of the great chieftain. This emerald valley nestles in
+the lap of the Blue Mountains, and was from time immemorial the
+favorite home of the exiled natives. When Bonneville passed through
+that remote region in the early thirties they were in the enjoyment of
+that valley and the rugged recesses of the Imnaha between Oregon and
+Walla Walla. The famous red fish, the yank, and others possibly
+peculiar to the place were found in abundance in the lake. It was
+their treasure house for finny food, and the hovering hills furnished
+flesh of deer and bear.
+
+At a point in the valley twenty miles north of the lake, Old Joseph,
+father of the more famous son, lies buried; his bramble-covered grave
+is to be seen by the roadside to-day. For this reason something more
+than an instinctive affection dominated the heart of the younger man.
+
+Not long before his death, accompanied by guards, Chief Joseph was
+taken into the valley on some sort of errand, and was thus permitted
+to see again the enchanting beauties of his birthplace and early home.
+How hungry were his eyes as he viewed the great opaline pool which
+reflected the sinewy cedars and pointed pines; as he looked upon the
+surrounding glen, the ancient game-range, the distant dissolving
+plain, the hills heightening through their timber-covered sides up to
+the very sky! His bursting heart cried out, "I have but one thing to
+ask for from the White Father: Give me this lake and the land around
+it, and some few acres surrounding the grave of my father."
+
+[Illustration: WALLOWA LAKE]
+
+The white man's ax had cleared the timber about the old man's grave;
+the white man's plow might menace the sacred sod above the mute dust
+of his honored sire. He wished to protect that place hallowed by
+love--his own father's grave. But his plea was denied. He was not
+permitted to have what in all reason seemed his very own.
+
+He was now an old man, with eyes that had never shed tears, a soul
+that was unacquainted with fear, and a heart that had never weakened
+in the presence of danger. But at the thought that he was no more to
+see his lovely Wallowa his eyes melted, his soul sank, his heart
+broke.
+
+Chief Joseph died near Spokane not many years since, wailing out the
+one great desire of his life, a final glimpse of the land of his
+birth, the hunting ground of his manhood and the graves of his
+sires.
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE MAN'S BOOK
+
+ The book--this holy book, on every line
+ Mark'd with the seal of high divinity,
+ On every leaf bedew'd with drops of love
+ Divine, and with the eternal heraldry
+ And signature of God Almighty stampt
+ From first to last--this ray of sacred light,
+ This lamp, from off the everlasting throne,
+ Mercy took down, and, in the night of time
+ Stood, casting on the dark her gracious bow;
+ And evermore beseeching men, with tears
+ And earnest sighs, to read, believe, and live;
+ And many to her voice gave ear, and read,
+ Believed, obey'd.
+ --_Pollok._
+
+
+Having heard the early explorers speak of God, the Bible, and
+religion, and knowing that on Sundays the flag was raised and
+work suspended, the Indians wanted to know more about these
+things, and two chiefs, Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (Rabbit-skin Leggins)
+and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No-horns-on-his-Head) set out to find
+the white missionaries who could inform their troubled minds.
+They did not reach Saint Louis until 1832, where they found General
+Clark, whom they had known. The messengers were of the Nez Perce
+tribe. General Clark took them to the cathedral and showed them the
+pictures of the saints and entertained them in the best and most
+approved Christian style; but they were heart-hungry and went home
+dissatisfied. One of them made the following speech to the kindly
+soldier, General Clark:
+
+"I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You
+were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came
+with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in
+darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both
+eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way
+to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that
+I might carry much back to them. I go back with both arms broken and
+empty. The two fathers who came with us--the braves of many winters
+and wars--we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam.[2] They were
+tired in many moons, and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me
+to get the white man's Book of heaven. You took me where you allow
+your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the Book was not there;
+you showed me the images of the good spirits and the pictures of the
+good land beyond, but the Book was not among them to tell us the way.
+I am going back the long, sad trail to my people of the dark land. You
+make my feet heavy with the burden of gifts, and my moccasins will
+grow old in carrying them, but the Book is not among them. When I tell
+my poor, blind people, after one more snow, in the big council, that I
+did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or our
+young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My
+people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the
+other hunting grounds. No white man will go with them and no white
+man's Book will make the way plain. I have no more words."
+
+It was the rumor of this address that started Jason Lee and Marcus
+Whitman westward over the old Trail.
+
+-----
+
+ [2] Four of their number had died, and only one reached home.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+ I love thy rocks and rills,
+ Thy woods and templed hills,
+ My heart with rapture thrills.
+ --_Smith_.
+
+
+
+
+LIGHTS AND SIDELIGHTS
+
+
+The Old Oregon Trail takes bold way through some of the very finest
+scenery of the West. These new ships of the desert, the passenger
+trains, glide gracefully down from the aerial highways of the mountain
+passes into the heart of our fertile oases. Whichever way the traveler
+turns he sees something absolutely new, and often in strange contrast
+with what he has just been beholding. Stately, snow-crowned giants of
+the lordly hills, fir-fringed up to timber line, stand motherlike, or
+bishoplike, crozier-cragged, shepherding the verdant uplands and the
+velvety valleys whose billowy meadows bend beneath the highland
+zephyrs or fall before the scythe of the prospering farmer. Now he
+beholds the ruggedest of capacious canyons where the rollicking rivers
+and rhythmic rills have cut great gorges deep into the rocky ribs of
+the tightly hugging hills. Another turn and he sees the hearty herds
+transforming themselves automatically into gold for their happy
+owners; another turn shows the lazy rivers arising from their age-long
+beds and mossy couches to climb the hot hillsides and to toil and
+sweat at the command of the lord of this world, as they irrigate his
+arid acres. Yet another turn and the wrathful river is carrying on its
+breast the tens of thousands of winter-cut logs dancing like straws on
+its frothy surface on their way to the busy mills; and the turbulent
+streams, their wildness tamed and harnessed, serve the needs of man
+like trusted domestic servants.
+
+But this is not the way to view mountains; it is only surface sights
+we get in this manner. He who would know the beauties of the hills
+must become acquainted with them personally _and on foot_. Anyone can
+enjoy the lazy luxury of the cozy precincts of an upholstered,
+porter-served car. He may travel horseback or donkey-back, if he cares
+to visit only where such sure-footed animals can go. However, when I
+want to see the stately things among the unchiseled palaces and
+temples where Nature pays homage in the courts of the Divine
+Architect, I dismiss all modes of conveyance, and with well-nailed
+shoes, rough clothes, a staff, and a lunch, I take the kingdom by
+force. When once in, I am royally entertained; for though coy and
+apparently hard to woo, Nature is a most delightful companion when
+once you are acquainted.
+
+ The distant mountains, that uprear
+ Their solid bastions to the skies,
+ Are crossed by pathways, that appear
+ As we to higher levels rise.
+
+So sang Longfellow. Bishop Warren said that every peak tempted him as
+with a beckoning finger, daring him to a climb.
+
+To those who have never been nearer the unlocked fastnesses of our
+eternal American hills than by the too common means above mentioned,
+the far-away cliffs of marble or white granite, with their areas of
+unmeltable snows and ices, look temptingly down on us in August,
+together with the smaller and less inspiring crags. But when we
+approach them, even those nearest, how they appear to recede--almost
+to run away! The high peaks that looked as though climbing up and
+peeping over the heads of the lower ones, either jump down and
+bashfully run to hide, or the little ones rise up to protect them. So
+it seems as one approaches.
+
+Entering the mountain side by way of a yawning canyon we soon come to a
+sheer precipice lying in a deep gorge with perpendicular sides, while,
+leaping from the top of the declivity high above our heads, as if from
+the very zenith, a stream of crystal water cleaves the air. It is
+dashed into countless strands of silvery pearls before it reaches the
+deep bed of moss spread down to receive it, and where it lies resting
+awhile for its downward journey toward the moon-whipped ocean.
+
+Ah, Longfellow! You have taught us how to climb some mountains, but
+here we have to construct our ladders, for anyone less sure of foot
+than the chamois or the mountain sheep must stay at the bottom of the
+falls. Scylla and Charybdis are stationary now, and the gaping chasm
+has swallowed us upward, where we reach an opening into a wide park, a
+veritable fairyland. On the top of one of those ponderous laminations
+tilted edgewise is the king of the gnomes of the new glen. We call
+him Pharaoh. How archly he looks out over his wide domain! His kingly
+cap is adorned with a cobra ready to strike, yet out on his ample
+breast floats a most royal but un-Pharonic beard. This is one of the
+ways the quondam haughty hills have of providing entertainment for the
+bold questioner and visitor.
+
+The scenery is always new. High rocks, whose rugged faces look as if
+their titanic architect had been surprised and driven away while as
+yet his task was not half completed; long gaping gulches lined with an
+evergreen decoration of spruce, cedar, manzanita, and mountain
+mahogany, are some of the sidelights to be found in a day's journey in
+the realms adjacent to the Old Oregon Trail.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+ My high-blown pride
+ At length broke under me and now has left me,
+ Weary and old with service, to the mercy
+ Of a rude stream, that must forever hide me.
+ --_Shakespeare_.
+
+ Sweep on, you fat and greasy citizens.... When I was at home I was
+ in a better place; but travelers must be content.--_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+THE STAGECOACH
+
+
+At frequent intervals throughout the widening West may be seen the
+relegated ship of the desert standing forlorn, friendless, forsaken.
+The merciless claws of summer and the icy fangs of winter are
+loosening the red paint, and the white canvas cover and side curtains
+are flapping in the winds. The tired tongue, dumb with age and years
+of use, still tells tales of hardships by the silent eloquence of its
+multitude of unhealed scars.
+
+This class of carryall was at once unique and supreme. It was the
+one indispensable link in the endless chain of evolution popular and
+powerful, the only public agent of the Trail and the plains until
+the unconquerable initiative of the lord of the world had time to
+steel a highway with trackage for more rapid transit. What a living
+link was that old overland stage! To look upon an isolated and
+abandoned relic of earlier pioneerdom is like standing at the marble
+monument of some human pivot in the mighty march of man's progress.
+Before the bold and bustling railway noisily elbowed its way into the
+affections of travel and commerce and pushed aside the patient wagon
+of the nation-builders, the tens of thousands of hurried travelers
+enjoyed (or endured) the hospitality of its rocking thorough-braces as
+they, hour by hour, day after day, and night after night, and even
+week after week in the longer journeys, sat atop or inside this
+leviathan of the sand-ocean making the most rapid trip possible and
+under safe guidance.
+
+Could such old hulk tell its story, could that dried-up old tongue but
+begin to wag again, what tales! First would come those of the men too
+often overworked and underappreciated, like our modern railmen, the
+drivers of the stage. These, as the ancient Jehu, were compelled to
+drive furiously on occasion, in order to keep a cramped schedule or
+make up for the loss of time brought about by a breakdown, a washout,
+or some Indian depredation. Few drivers there were who did not love
+their work. It came to be a saying, "Once a driver, always a driver."
+The coach-and-four, or more, with booted and belted man on the throne
+of the swinging chariot, made every boy envious and created in him a
+desire to become great some day too. Eagle and Dick, Tom and Rock,
+Bolly and Bill understood the snap of the whip, or its more wicked
+crack, as well as they did the tension of the line or the word of the
+chief charioteer, who, with foot on the long brake-beam, regulated the
+speed of the often crowded vehicle down the precipitous places which
+to the novice looked very dangerous. But Jehu is no longer universal
+king. A Pharaoh who knew him not has heartlessly and definitely
+usurped some of his places.
+
+In the boot of this old seaworthy craft was hauled many a load of
+treasure, for the gold-hungry prospector without sextant and chain
+surveyed the fastnesses of the hills as well as the illimitation of
+the prairies, and a care-taking government made a way to his camp to
+send him his mail. Express companies joined their traffic to that of
+Uncle Sam, and he of the pick and shovel became the lodestone to
+popular convenience. With many a load of treasure went a man known as
+a messenger, who sat beside the driver, carrying a sawed-off gun under
+his coat, ready to meet the gangster or holdup, who so often robbed
+both stage and passenger.
+
+In the hold of this old coach have ridden governors, statesmen of all
+grades, men and women, good and better (some bad and worse); here were
+bridal tours, funeral parties, commercial men and gamblers, miners and
+prospectors, Chinamen and Indians, pleasure-seekers and labor-hunters,
+officers and convicts.
+
+ Men of every station
+ In the eye of fame,
+ On a common level
+ Coming to the same--
+
+is the way Saxe punningly puts it; but more of a leveler was this old
+coach, for there was of necessity the forceful putting of people of
+the most heterogeneous character together in the most homogeneous
+manner as the omnibus (most literal word here), made up its hashy load
+at the hand and command of the driver, whose word was unappealable law
+as complete as that of another captain on the high seas. Prodigal,
+profligate, and pure, maiden or Magdalene, millionaire or Lazarus, all
+were crowded together as the needs of the hour and the size of the
+passengers demanded, to sit elbow to elbow, side by side to the
+journey's end.
+
+Huddled thus, they traveled unchanged till the stage station was
+reached; here the horses were exchanged for fresher ones; the wayside
+inn had its tables of provisions varying and varied as the region
+traversed. If in the mountains, there were likely to be trout, saddle
+of deer, steaks of bear; but if through the sands, there was provided
+bacon or other coarser fare. Usually these crowds were joking and
+jolly, unless tempered by something requiring more sobriety, but
+always optimistic, for the fellow who became grouchy the while had
+generally abundant occasion to repent and mend his ways.
+
+One day, on a road not far from where this is being written, the old
+coach was toiling up a long mountainside; the driver was drowsy and
+the passengers had exhausted their newest repertoire of stories and
+had lapsed into stillness such as often seizes a squeezed crowd. The
+horses were permitted to take their time; the dust was deep, the sun
+hot, and all possible stillness prevailed.
+
+"Halt!" ordered a low voice very near the road.
+
+The driver, Tom Myers, did not understand the command, and simply
+looked up, half asleep, and said to the horses, "Gid-dap!"
+
+"Halt!" came the words again, louder and unmistakable.
+
+Myers halted. Standing at the end of an elongated bunch of pines where
+he had been invisible until the heads of the horses appeared stood the
+highwayman, with menacing gun covering the head of the driver.
+
+"Throw out your treasure and mail!" came the command.
+
+"I have mail, but no treasure," said my friend Tom, as he afterward
+pointed out the spot and told the story. "Come and get it."
+
+The lone robber rifled the sacks, turned the pockets of the travelers
+inside out, and bade them drive on without imitating Lot's wife; he
+was never caught.
+
+To be sure, this is a tame story, and many readers doubtless can tell
+one more thrilling; but this one is true.
+
+The stagecoach is a thing of the past, but we still have the hardy,
+dust-covered, mud-daubed teamster, who yet must haul the freight far
+back into hills where for ages there will be no railway. To these,
+Godspeed and good cheer! They live by the Trails; they eat at the
+wheel; they sleep under the wagon; they are kindly and obliging even
+when their heavily belled teams of six to fourteen or more head of
+horses meet another loaded caravan in some narrow pass where the
+highest engineering ability is needed to get by in safety; and they
+never leave a fellow-traveler in distress.
+
+
+
+
+AMONG THE HILLS
+
+ To him who in the love of Nature, holds
+ Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
+ A various language;...
+ The hills
+ Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.
+ --_Bryant_.
+
+ Not vainly did the early Persian make
+ His altar the high places and the peak
+ Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
+ A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek
+ The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak,
+ Upreared of human hands.... compare
+ Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek
+ With Nature's realm of worship.
+ --_Byron_.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOTHER DEER
+
+
+ The ragged sky-line high in air
+ Sits boundary to sight
+ And seems to end the world;
+ But topping it by way well worn by braver
+ pioneer,
+ A fertile, home-filled dale is found
+ Where love holds warm,
+ And schools and churches dot the land.
+ But while the slow-drawn old stagecoach
+ With load of dust-clad travelers
+ Crawls over jolting, stone-filled ruts,
+ The puffing beasts, sweat-covered,
+ Winding in and out among the stately
+ pines
+ (Where friendly Nature spreads her yellow
+ moss
+ O'er bleaching arms long since deprived of
+ life),
+ May now be seen a mother deer
+ Half hidden 'mong the sloping boughs;
+ Alert, ears high, eyes wide, body so tense
+ And motionless. In silence all
+ The passengers admire the instinct-love
+ Which not affrights the spotted babe
+ Fast sleeping at her feet.
+ "There are no guns aboard!" says one.
+ "But if there were, how could one's heart
+ Be hard enough to murder mother-love?"
+ Said I.
+
+
+
+
+THE SHEPHERD
+
+ The tired shepherd stands among his ewes
+ That with their lambs are unafraid
+ Of him and keen-eyed dogs;
+ They crouch close in about his feet
+ Whene'er the coyote's cry
+ Or bear's low growl
+ Falls tingling on the timid ear.
+ Himself thrusts gun to elbow-place
+ And peers amid the dust-dressed sage
+ And scented chaparral so dense,
+ To glimpse the fiery eyeballs
+ Of the prowler of the hills;
+ While all awatch the faithful collies stand
+ Prepared to fend e'en with their lives
+ The young and helpless not their own.
+
+
+
+
+THE FEATHERED DRUMMER
+
+
+ The wooded thicket holds a drum.
+ The air in springtime afternoons
+ Is filled with sharp staccato notes
+ Whose echoes clear reverberate
+ From precipice and timbered hills.
+ No fifer plays accompaniment;
+ No pageant proud or marching throng
+ Keeps step to this deep pulsing bass
+ Whose sullen solo booms afar.
+
+ A double challenge is this gage,
+ A gauntlet flung for love or war;
+ As strutting barnyard chanticleer
+ Defies his neighboring lord:
+ So calls this crested pheasant-king
+ For combat or for peace.
+ The meek brown mate upon her nest
+ Feels happy and secure
+ While thus her lord by deed and word
+ Displays his woodland bravery
+ And guards their little home.
+
+
+
+
+MORMONDOM
+
+ That fellow seems to possess but one idea, and that is the wrong
+ one.--_Samuel Johnson_.
+
+ Utah is harder than China.--_Bishop Wiley_.
+
+ Utah is the hardest soil into which the Methodist plowshare was
+ ever set.--_Bishop Fowler_.
+
+
+
+
+THE TRAIL OF THE MORMON
+
+
+By the Trail had gone Jason Lee, in 1834, to plant the sturdy oak of
+Methodism in the Willamette Valley and the north Pacific Coast. His
+task was nobly done; the developments of to-day attest the wisdom of
+the church in sending him and his coequal coadjutors, Daniel Lee,
+Cyrus Shepherd, and P. L. Edwards.
+
+Over this same track went Marcus Whitman, in 1835, to found the
+mission at Waiilatpu, near the present site of Walla Walla, and to
+find there the early grave of honorable martyrdom at the hands of the
+people he was attempting to save. The call to these two intrepid
+equals, Lee and Whitman, came through the visit of the two young
+Indian chiefs who, immediately after the expedition of Lewis and
+Clark, had gone to Saint Louis to obtain a copy of the "white man's
+Book of heaven." The names of these two, as previously stated, were
+Hee-oh'ks-te-kin and H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min.
+
+On the sixth day of April, 1830, in Kirkland, Ohio, Joseph Smith, Jr.,
+had organized the body best known as the Mormon Church. Fourteen years
+later he was mercilessly, and unjustly, mobbed at Nauvoo, Illinois,
+and after three more years of drifting about from pillar to post, the
+Latter-Day Saints prepared to emigrate to upper California under the
+absolute domination and guidance of Brigham Young, who was often
+styled the successor to the "Mohammed of the West," as Joseph Smith
+was sometimes called. This cult had some queer traits. W. W. Phelps,
+one of their more prominent members, thus characterized the leaders of
+Mormondom: Brigham Young, the Lion of the Lord; P. P. Pratt, the
+Archer of Paradise; O. Hyde, the Olive Branch of Israel; W. Richards,
+the Keeper of the Rolls; J. Taylor, Champion of Right; W. Smith, the
+Patriarchal Jacob's Staff; W. Woodruff, the Banner of the Gospel; G.
+A. Smith, the Entablature of Truth; O. Pratt, the Gauge of Philosophy;
+J. E. Page, the Sun Dial; L. Wright, Wild Mountain Ram.
+
+Expelled from Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri, the trembling Saints
+sought less turbulent surroundings by immersing their all in the wild
+conditions both of men and wilderness in the untamed lands of the
+great West. They were not able to sustain the physical cost of the
+trek of more than a thousand miles under the hardest of circumstances.
+The Trail was the home of the Sioux, the Cheyennes, the Arapahoes, the
+Otoes, Omahas, Utes, and others, who knew neither law nor mercy. The
+waters were often alkaline and deadly as Lethe. A thousand miles afoot
+was the record some had to make. They appealed to the government, then
+at war with Mexico, to permit a number of their men to enlist as
+soldiers to be marched over the ancient Santa Fe Trail, and thus be
+able to draw wages on the journey. This was granted. These recruits
+had little, if anything, to do, but they are known in history as the
+Mormon battalion. They went to California, 1847-49, and were present
+when James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill.
+
+In 1847, July 24, Mormondom threw up its first trenches in the valley
+of the Great Salt Lake, as that saline body was then known and
+recorded. In this salubrious region was planted the analogy of the
+harem of Mohammed, and the seraglio of Brigham became the center of
+the sensual system of the Latter-Day Saints. So blatant was the
+apostle Heber Kimball that he said he himself had enough wives to whip
+the soldiers of the United States.
+
+Evangelical Christianity waited almost twenty years before an attempt
+was made to plant the high standards of Christendom in the Wahsatch
+Mountains. In the sixties went the denominations in the order here
+named: Congregational, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal; in
+1871 the Presbyterians went, and then the Baptists. It was dark.
+Mighty night had beclouded the intellect and obscured the spiritual
+senses; civilized sensuality swayed with unchecked hand the destinies
+of the masses. The blinded people groped for light in the pitchlike
+blackness of the new superstition.
+
+"None but Americans on guard" in such a night! Hear the roll call.
+None but tried and true Christian soldiers were mounted on those
+ramparts: Erastus Smith, the heart-winner; Thomas Wentworth Lincoln,
+the scholarly but quiet Grand Army man, who always kept his patriotic
+fires banked; George Ellis Jayne, another veteran of the Civil War,
+tireless evangelist who possibly saw more Mormons made Christian than
+any other pastor of any church in Utah; George Marshall Jeffrey,
+eternally at it; Joseph Wilks, methodic, patient, sunny; Martinus
+Nelson, weeping over the straying of his Norwegians; Emil E. Moerk,
+rugged and steadfast; Martin Anderson and Samuel Hooper, both of
+whom died by the Trail, falling at the "post of honor." Last, but not
+least of these to be named, stands the energetic and "Boanergetic"
+Thomas Corwin Iliff, that Buckeye stentor and patriot, who with
+heart-thrilling tones has raised millions of dollars in aiding and
+in establishing hundreds and hundreds of churches in these United
+States. For thirty years he commanded the Methodist as well as the
+patriotic redoubts of Utah and bearded the "Lion of the Lord" in
+his very den.
+
+But there were never truer watchmen on the high-towered battlements
+of the real Zion than the Protestant Episcopal Bishop, Daniel S.
+Tuttle; the knightly Hawkes of the Congregationalists; the truly
+apostolic Baptist, Steelman; the Presbyterian leaders--who surpasses
+them? See the saintly Wishard, the polemic McNiece and McLain; the
+scholarly and tireless Paden!
+
+They were loyal to the core, commanding the Christian forces as they
+deployed, enfiladed, charged, marched, and stormed the trenches of
+religious libertinism in the fertile and paradisaical valleys and
+roomy canyons of the Mormon state of Deseret. These never surrendered,
+compromised, or retreated.
+
+Glorious Brotherhood! Permit us the honor of saluting you. Your like
+may never march abreast again in any campaign! Living, you were
+conquerors; dying, you are heroes.
+
+Of these above named Messrs. Hooper, Anderson, Steelman, and McNiece
+have entered the "snow-white tents" of the other shore.
+
+
+
+
+SOME MORMON BELIEFS
+
+ His studie was but litel on the Bible.--_Chaucer_.
+
+ Imaginations fearfully absurd,
+ Hobgoblin rites, and moon-struck reveries,
+ Distracted creeds, and visionary dreams,
+ More bodiless and hideously misshapen
+ Than ever fancy, at the noon of night,
+ Playing at will, framed in the madman's brain.
+ --_Pollok, in Course of Time_.
+
+The abode of the dead, where they remained in full consciousness of
+their condition for indefinable periods, or even for eternity, has
+been the theme of many a writer both before and after the advent of
+the Saviour of men. Annihilation is repugnant to the common
+intelligence. Homer sends Ulysses, Dantelike, to the realms of the
+dead, where he converses with them he had known in life. The Stygian
+River, the dumb servitor, Charon, the coin-paid fare, are all well
+known in the classics of the ancients.
+
+In some later religio-philosophic studies the names are different;
+some have tartarus, some purgatory, some paradise. The last is the
+name adopted by the Mormons.
+
+The heroes of Homer seemed never to hope for a release from the bonds
+of Hades. Voluptuous Circe, the Odysseyan swine-maker, told the hero
+of those tales he was a daring one:
+
+ "... who, yet alive, have gone
+ Down to the abode of Pluto; twice to die
+ Is yours, while others die but once."
+
+Many well meaning minds have tried to discover in the Bible, or
+otherwise reasonably invent a second probation for the unrepentant as
+an addendum to the final resurrection of the just. Not a little has
+been made of the term "spirits in prison" (1 Pet. 3. 19, 20), and of
+"baptism for the dead" (1 Cor. 15. 29). In the intensity of zeal, or
+as a proselyting advertisement, the Latter-Day Saints proclaim the
+possibility of all the inhabitants of the grave (paradise) being saved
+in heaven. To this end, early in the history of the organization,
+there was implanted the doctrine of preaching to the departed and that
+of proxy ministrations.
+
+From their Articles of Faith I take these two:
+
+ 3. We believe that through the atonement of Christ all mankind may
+ be saved by obedience to the laws and ordinances of the gospel.
+
+ 4. We believe that these ordinances are: First, Faith in the Lord
+ Jesus Christ; second, Repentance; third, Baptism by immersion for
+ the remission of sins; fourth, Laying on of hands for the gift of
+ the Holy Ghost.
+
+Now, since without immersion there is no remission of sins, and since
+they who are in prison (paradise) are eligible to salvation, therefore
+some one must be baptized for them and have all the other rites of the
+plan likewise administered in their name. That "all things may be done
+decently and in order," there was received a "revelation" to the end
+that temples must be built, recorders and other officials appointed,
+and all the paraphernalia necessary for the work prepared. When these
+rites are consummated some elder of the church who dies goes to the
+spiritual prison house and tells the people therein confined that
+these most meritorious works have been done for them on earth; in
+fact, this is the chief reason for their going thither. They who will
+believe this story and repent of their sins are then and there
+entitled to "a right to the tree of life, and may enter in through the
+gates into the city."
+
+Not only are the people redeemed from all their sins by the pious
+ministrations of the many temple-workers, who, like Samuel,
+continually serve and minister therein, but as marriage relations are
+to continue throughout the endless ages of eternity, and children are
+to be born forever and ever, these dead have the hymeneal ceremony
+performed "for eternity"; this act is known as the "sealing" process.
+Men are here married--by proxy--to others than the actual living wife,
+sometimes with her consent, sometimes without it. One old gentleman,
+whose name is not to be mentioned, was sealed thus for eternity to
+Martha Washington and to Empress Josephine. It sounds farcical and
+foolish in the extreme; fit only to be counted as a silly joke,
+unworthy the attention of a sane soul for a minute; but it is terribly
+sober when it is remembered that there are hundreds of thousands of
+innocent, honest, and unsuspecting Mormons who really and truly
+believe this to be the only road to eternal life and exaltation.
+
+Added to this is the doctrine of the deification of men. All the true
+and faithful Mormons are to become gods by and by, and create and
+populate new worlds; hence the value of polygamy; in fact, this world
+is but one of the samples of this truth. Adam is the owner and ruler
+of earth, and to him we pray. He is our God. As such he is only one in
+an endless procession of such beings.
+
+"There has been and there now exists an endless procession of the
+Gods, stretching back into the eternities, that had no beginning and
+will have no end. Their existence runs parallel with endless duration,
+and their dominions are limitless as boundless space."[3]
+
+Possibly the most popular hymn among these people is the following,
+written by one of the wives of Joseph Smith, Eliza R. Snow. It is in
+their collection and now in use:
+
+ HYMN TO FATHER AND MOTHER
+
+ O my Father, thou that dwellest
+ In the high and glorious place!
+ When shall I regain thy presence,
+ And again behold thy face?
+ In thy holy habitation,
+ Did my spirit once reside?
+ In my first primeval childhood,
+ Was I nurtured by thy side?
+
+ For a wise and glorious purpose
+ Thou hast placed me here on earth,
+ And withheld the recollection
+ Of my former friends and birth;
+ Yet ofttimes a secret something
+ Whispered, "You're a stranger here";
+ And I felt that I had wandered
+ From a more exalted sphere.
+
+ I had learned to call thee Father,
+ Through thy Spirit from on high;
+ But, until the Key of Knowledge
+ Was restored, I knew not why.
+ In the heavens are parents single?
+ No; the thought makes reason stare!
+ Truth is reason; truth eternal
+ Tells me, I've a mother there.
+
+ When I leave this frail existence,
+ When I lay this mortal by,
+ Father, mother, may I meet you
+ In your royal court on high?
+ Then, at length, when I've completed
+ All you sent me forth to do,
+ With your mutual approbation
+ Let me come and dwell with you.
+
+-----
+
+ [3] New Witness for God, B. H. Roberts, 1895.
+
+
+
+
+WEBER TOM, UTE POLYGAMIST
+
+ Lo, the poor Indian! whose untutor'd mind
+ Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind;
+ His soul proud Science never taught to stray
+ Far as the solar walk or milky way.
+ --_Pope_.
+
+When Mormonism was no longer compelled to maintain the defensive it
+quickly assumed the offensive. This was apparently deemed necessary
+for the existence of the system. Two kinds of preaching were indulged
+in by the elders on their missions, home and foreign. At home they
+declared the beauty of the Smithian gospel, including the doctrine of
+polygamy, a sweet morsel for the blood-thirsty Utes. They were trying
+by every means, Machiavellian or otherwise, to gain the Lamanites, as
+Indians were called by the Mormons, at least to an extent which would
+allow them to remain undisturbed throughout the territory of Utah. Old
+Kanosh and other leaders were immersed for the remission of their
+sins, but they were permitted to multiply unto themselves as many
+squaws as they cared for. It would take water stronger than the common
+alkaline pools contained to reach the morals of a heathen Ute.
+
+Very many of the Indians thus were made Mormons and white men were
+appointed as their bishops. Brigham Young used to make visits to them
+to try to instruct them in various things. For a considerable period
+he was the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Territory. He was
+such official at the time of the lamentable Mountain Meadow Massacre,
+in 1857, and for which crime Bishop John D. Lee suffered death.
+
+Possibly it was the influence of Mr. Young that kept the most of the
+red men from the warpath and thus saved the scattered settlers in the
+earlier days when there were so few to guard the isolated homes in the
+far-away nooks and canyons of the mountains.
+
+The other sort of preaching in which the elders indulged was that of
+an absolute and unqualified denial of polygamy in Utah. Such was the
+plan of the elders who went to Europe. The public denial of John
+Taylor, later president of the church, is abundant evidence. When they
+deny polygamy now they have the consistency of definition to back
+them; to their manner of explaining, polygamy is the act of taking new
+wives; to the non-Mormon, polygamy is the possessing of more than one
+wife. For this reason we are very bold in saying that polygamy is
+publicly practiced in Utah--witness Joseph F. Smith as chief example.
+
+Although we may read of it, none can comprehend just what it means to
+a girl-wife, two thousand miles away from her parents, to be treated
+as an alien, in a land under the flag of the free. This was the case
+in the strictly Mormon settlements in Utah thirty years ago. Reason
+only kept the Giant Despair from the threshold of the mind. The
+bravery of these women can be compared only to the English women of
+the Sepoy Rebellion days of 1857 in India, or to those of our American
+sisters who accompanied their valorous husbands to their isolated
+posts on the Indian frontiers, resolved to share equally in the
+dangers, and to die lingeringly and cruelly if necessary. Retreat and
+surrender never grew in the hearts of such women. It was so in the
+times that were called the "dark days" in Utah--the time when the
+government applied its functions to the stamping out of polygamous
+practices, 1883 to 1893--ten terrible years for the Mormon as well as
+the non-Mormon.
+
+Add to this the fact that, unannounced, a brawny, stalwart Indian
+might walk in at the door. More than once has it so occurred in our
+home. One day the door was suddenly opened and in walked a grinning
+brave, armed with a long knife, and followed by his squaw; extending
+his empty hand toward the far-from-home girl-wife, alone in the house,
+he said, "How-do!" In telling us of it, she said: "I was scared to
+death, I thought, but I would have shaken hands with him if I had died
+in the attempt. I would not let him know I feared him." But this was
+not Weber Tom.
+
+It was in those fearsome days when the leading men of Utah--farmers,
+bankers, stockmen, church dignitaries, all sorts and conditions of the
+Latter-Day Saints--were being arrested and haled to the courts almost
+daily, that one morning there rode up to our door the battle-scarred
+old warrior, Weber Tom, chief of the Skull Valley Utes, or Goshutes.
+
+If perfection is beauty, this Indian was most beautiful, for he was
+the ugliest creature imaginable, ugly even to perfection. One eye had
+been gouged out, a knife-scar extended from his ear down across his
+mouth, and he was Herculean in physical proportions. I am a large man,
+but once when I gave him an overcoat he tried vainly to button it over
+his vast frontal protuberance, looking at me and saying, "Too short,
+too short."
+
+This giant chief dismounted, and, seeing my wife standing near,
+reached the reins of the bridle to her and said, "Here, squaw, hol' my
+hoss."
+
+She said, quietly, "Hold your own horse if you want him held."
+
+Having had to accommodate himself to the rudeness of a civilized
+woman, he made other provision for his cayuse and then asked her,
+"Wheh yo'man?"
+
+She told him I was down in the field, and he then proceeded to find
+me. He was in the depths of trouble. He had several squaw-wives and
+feared he was to be arrested for it.
+
+Now he approached me. It was dramatic; it was high-class pantomime.
+It is too bad the kinetoscope, cinematograph, or some other
+moving-picture machine had not been invented. He seemed awed by a
+presence, yet so emboldened by the needs of his case that he
+walked stoically to his quest.
+
+Squaring his Atlaslike shoulders, he began: "You heap big chief. You
+talky this way" (at the same time extending one finger straight from
+his lips). "Mormon he talky this way" (now extending two fingers, to
+show he understood them to talk with double tongue). "Mormon telly me
+sojer men ketchy me, put me in jug [jail]; me havy two, tree, four
+squaw. You heap big chief. You telly me this way" (one finger).
+Continuing, he said: "Me havy two, tree, four squaw. Mormon he telly
+me, me go jug; one my squaw he know dat, he heap cry, _heap_ cry, HEAP
+cry, by um by die!"
+
+This was accompanied by gestures, throwing his body backward in
+imitation of the dying woman whom fear had killed, according to his
+dramatic story.
+
+I told him something like this: "No, heap big lie. You go back Skull
+Valley, you stay home, no sojer ketchy you, you be heap good Injun!"
+Upon this he grunted deeply, shook hands cordially, went back to his
+many-wived tents over across the creek, and soon we saw them filing
+off through the sagebrush toward their Skull Valley home, many miles
+over the Onaqui range.
+
+
+
+
+POLYGAMY OF TO-DAY
+
+ The man that lays his hand upon a woman,
+ Save in the way of kindness, is a wretch
+ Whom 't were gross flattery to name a coward.
+ --_John Tobin_.
+
+ A baby was sleeping,
+ Its mother was weeping.
+ --_Samuel Lover_.
+
+
+Polygamy _may_ die in Mormondom, but has never yet done so. Cases are
+often reported, and from the manner of their finding it is a certainty
+that new alliances are being formed continually between married men
+and unmarried women.
+
+Not long ago a very bright conversion was made in one of the missions
+of an evangelical denomination. The convert was a young woman of more
+than average intelligence. Some of her relatives had been polygamists,
+but she repudiated the whole cult and creed. For a while this decision
+made it necessary for her to find other residence than her rightful
+home.
+
+Some time after she permitted herself to be persuaded that a young man
+of her acquaintance loved her more than he did the polygamous tenet of
+his church--he was a Mormon--and that he never would attempt to woo
+and win another woman while she remained his wife. She consented, and
+was happy in her home life. Not for a moment did she suspect him of
+double-dealing. Her honest heart was above entertaining such suspicion
+had it entered. Serenely she saw her children growing to useful
+womanhood. Not a cloud of anxiety appeared on the calm sea of life;
+all was fine sailing. One day she was making some repairs in one of
+her husband's garments when a letter fell from a pocket. It bore the
+postmark of a city where they both had relatives, and it was quite
+natural that she should look into its contents.
+
+What despair and agony seized her when she read therein the statement
+from the "other woman" telling her "fond" husband of the birth of the
+child!
+
+The poor, heart-stricken, and hitherto trusting wife immediately rose
+to the dignity of outraged womanhood and insulted wifehood and
+compelled the polygamist to choose at once between her and the
+concubine. He did so, choosing the younger woman and leaving her who
+had trusted him too fondly.
+
+This is not a tale of the ancients in Utah, but a living, festering
+story of the vivid present.
+
+One way of avoiding prosecution by the law is the surreptitious,
+clandestine rearing of children, whose mothers lose no prestige in the
+community; for it is well understood "among the neighbors and
+friends." "Public polygamy has been suspended," but the requirement of
+the doctrine remains unchanged.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+ So lonely 'twas that God himself
+ Scarce seemed there to be.
+ --_Coleridge_.
+
+ This is truth the poet sings
+ That a sorrow's crown of sorrow is remembering
+ happier things.
+ --_Tennyson_.
+
+
+
+
+GREAT SALT LAKE
+
+
+Many stories, weird and lurid, true and untrue, have been told of this
+body of saline water lying imposed on the breast of the beautiful and
+scenic State of Utah. Although one of the transcontinental highways of
+ocean-to-ocean travel has extended its bands of steel directly across
+its wide bosom for many miles, it is still a spot where mystery
+lingers.
+
+Private as well as public legends are handed down from lip to ear
+rather than from page to eye. For that reason there are tales of this
+wonderful salt sea to be learned only by residing in the vicinity. Its
+natural moods are unlike the ocean, and its individual characteristics
+would make a book.
+
+The briny pond is but a wee thing as compared with its gigantic
+dimensions in the days when its waters were sweet and had an outlet to
+the north. Then its arms spread far south into Arizona, over into
+Nevada and into Idaho. It was 350 miles from the northern end to the
+southern, and 145 miles across from east to west. The area was 20,000
+square miles. This greater lake stood 1,000 feet higher than does the
+present one, although this one is 4,280 feet above the level of the
+sea. Geologists have named the earlier one Bonneville, in honor of the
+intrepid soldier-explorer whom Washington Irving has so well fixed in
+American literature.
+
+By some as yet unknown cataclysm a great break was made at the north
+end of this inland ocean and its pent volume was poured into the canyon
+of the Port Neuf toward the ravenous Snake. This reduced the level
+four hundred feet, but the old beach line may still be easily noted.
+Gradually this diminished body became smaller and smaller until it
+reached the present stage of desiccation.
+
+So impure is this heavy liquid that after evaporation there is a
+residuum of twenty-eight pounds of solid matter in every hundred. This
+is composed of salt, magnesium, and other elements carrying three
+dollars of gold to the ton; the gold is not made a matter of trade or
+of industry because facilities are lacking for its handling. Very
+little animal life is found in this brine, and none of vegetable; in
+fact, at every point where the water touches the shore vegetation
+vanishes utterly. The animal life is that of a very small gnat which,
+mosquito-like, lays its eggs on the surface of the water. The larvae,
+when driven shoreward, collect in such quantities as to cause a
+strong, unpleasant odor observable for miles to the leeward. Myriads
+of seagulls here find a dainty feast.
+
+Salt Lake affords the finest and really the only beach-bathing resort
+in the whole interocean country. The bathing is attended with little,
+if any, danger. In thirty years only two persons have been lost. These
+strangled before assistance reached them. One body was found after
+four years, lying in the salty sand at the south end of the lake,
+whither the high winds from the north had drifted it. All the parts
+protected by the sand were perfectly preserved and as beautiful as if
+carved from Parian marble.
+
+The tops of a number of sunken mountains still protrude above the
+surface and form islands: such are Fremont, Church, Stanbury,
+Carrington, and others. Some of these are habitable, possessing fine
+springs and irrigable land. Very few people live on these islands, but
+some brave spirits dare to face the semiprivations of such isolation
+and stay there with their herds.
+
+Doubtless, many tales of heroism and devotion could be told of those
+who have lived on these islands. One of the best known is that of Mrs.
+Wenner, who, a few years after her marriage, went with her husband and
+little children to live on Fremont Island. Her husband's health
+failing, the oversight of the herds fell largely upon her, but she
+cheerily took up the burden, the while she trained her little ones,
+and was ever a true companion to him whom she daily saw slipping
+away.
+
+The end came on a dread and fearsome day, while the faithful man who
+worked for them was detained on the mainland by a raging storm. The
+children and an incompetent woman could give her little assistance or
+consolation. There on the lonely, storm-lashed island, with
+faint-whispered words of love, the dear one closed his eyes forever.
+Tenderly she cared for his body, and sadly she kept her vigil,
+replenishing through the long night the two watchfires intended as a
+signal to those on the mainland. On the night of the second day, the
+man made his dangerous way back to the island--and with his help she
+laid the loved husband in his island grave, with no service but the
+tears and prayers of those who mourned.
+
+This is but one story of desolation and sorrow--but the deep, briny
+waters and the barren, forbidding shores hold in their keeping many
+suggestions of mystery and of tears.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+ I could a tale unfold, whose lightest word
+ Would harrow up thy soul.
+ --_Shakespeare_.
+
+
+
+
+ARGONAUT SAM'S TALE
+
+
+ "I panned him out over and over ag'in,
+ But found nary sign of color,"
+ Said Argonaut Sam one evening, when,
+ As sitting atop of a box, to some men
+ He was spinning a yarn of the gold-trail.
+
+ And then,
+ With arms set akimbo, he straightened his back
+ And said: "'Twuz one night in the fifties I know;
+ Ther' kem up the trail frum the gulch jist below
+ A youngish-like feller; but steppin' so slow
+ I heartily pitied him even before
+ I saw his pale brow and heerd the sharp hack
+ Of his troublesome cough, and plain enough lack
+ Of more'n enough power to bring to my door
+ That tremblin' young body.
+
+
+ "He hed a small pack--
+ A blanket an' buckskin--but that wa'nt no lack
+ In them days when notions an' fashions wuz slack;
+ When all a man needed, besides pick an' pan,
+ Wuz a wallet o' leather to tie up his dust--'R
+ a place to git grub-staked (that means to git trust
+ Till he found a good prospeck); an' then he'd put in
+ His very best licks; fur in them days 'twuz sin
+ Fer a man strong o' body, o' wind an' o' limb
+ T' hang erround loafin' all day, 'twuz too thin.
+
+ "Well, this puny feller hed grin'-stunlike grit,
+ But wuz clean tuckered out when my cabin he hit;
+ 'N fell down a-faintin' jist inside my door--
+ His eyes set 'n' glassy--he seemed done fer, shore.
+ So I straightened him out, couldn't do nothin' more
+
+ Than to put back his hair an' t' dampen his brow,
+ An' to feel fer his pulse--joy! I found it--slow
+ An' flickery though, stoppin' and startin', an' now
+ Gone ag'in; then it revived, but so faint, don't you know,
+ That minute by minute I couldn't hev said
+ Whether the feller wuz livin' or dead.
+
+ "All night I watched by him; an' 'long a-to'rds light
+ I seed that a change hed come: so, honor bright!
+ I made up my mind that I'd save that young life
+ If it took me all summer. I'd fight
+ With grim death to a finish fer him.
+
+ "An' so I begun.
+ I quit workin' my claim
+ Where I'd git on an average ('pon my good name)
+ An ounce or more daily of number one gold.
+ An' in them days we thought nothin', you see,
+ Of layin' by stuff fer a rainy day; we
+ Hed plenty; the diggins wuz rich, an' wuz thick
+ Scattered over the kentry. Most every crick
+ Hed plenty o' gold in nuggets or dust--
+ An' the man who wuz stingy hed ort to be cussed.
+ So I shouldered my task.
+
+ "It wuz wonderful how
+ The new life appeared to come back to my boy;
+ (Fer that's what I called him--'my boy') an' the joy
+ O' perviden fer suthin' besides my lone self
+ Made me happy. Y' see, th' experunce wuz new;
+ Fer I'd lived all alone ever since forty-two,
+ When, back in Ohio, I'd buried my wife
+ An' baby. Since then I'd looked on my life
+ As a weary, onfriendly, detestable load.
+ So that's why I lived all alone, don't you see?
+ I didn't love nothin' and nothin' loved me.
+
+ "But now of young Josh--his name wuz Josh Clark--
+ He'd come frum ol' York State--could sing like a lark--
+ Wuz finely brung up, an' that mother o' his,
+ A sister he tol' me, an' a girl he called Liz.
+ 'D a give the hull earth if they only could know
+ If he wuz alive; but so hard-hearted, he
+ Would never be grateful to them nur to me.
+ Though I had no claim on him, yet it would seem
+ After all I hed done fer him, shorely some gleam
+ O' thankfulness somewhere might some time be seen.
+ 'Sides spendin' my all I hed broken down too,
+ Wuz a shattered ol' man, though but then fifty-two;
+ Fer I'd give up my health an' my strength to pull through
+ My boy--fer I loved him, if ever men do.
+ But, no; it appeared that he hedn't no heart.
+ Not once did he thank me, and never asked why
+ I nussed him to life, 'stid o' lettin' him die.
+
+
+ "His wants wuz demands, his wishes commands,
+ An' once in the dusk, as we set on the sands
+ Of a stream that run by, he reached with his hands
+ So quick an' so blamed unexpected, you see,
+ Grabbed me by the hair an' out with a knife,
+ An' demanded my gold. I thought fer my life
+ He wuz jokin'; but no, when I seed that fierce look
+ Of murder an' pillage, I knowed what I'd done;
+ I'd thawed out a viper upon my hearth-stun
+ An' now wuz becomin' its prey.
+
+ "But, I'd none:
+ I'd spent all the surplus I hed to save him.
+ I'd missed all the summer an' fall to nuss him
+ Who now like a tiger wuz takin' my life.
+ 'Hol' on, my dear Josh! Hol' on, my dear boy!'
+ No further I got, fer his hands clutched my throat--
+ I squirmed myself loose, but grapplin' my coat
+ He throwed me ag'in, now a madman, indeed.
+ His dirk-knife wuz raised. I said, 'Do yer best.
+ I've give you now all that I ever possessed
+ But life. Take it now if you like!' An' he struck.
+
+ "How long I laid there in the dark, I don't know;
+ But when I kem to I wuz layin' in bed,
+ An' the people wuz talkin' so easy an' low,
+ An' I knowed by the bandages too on my head
+ That I hed been nigh to the gates o' the dead.
+
+ "An' 'Where wuz Josh Clark?' did you say? I don't know.
+ He never wuz seen in the diggins below,
+ Ner heerd of in them parts ag'in, fer I know
+ He'd a-swung to the limb that come fust in the way;
+ Fer the boys in them days hed little to say,
+ But wuz mighty in doin'. So he got away.
+
+ "So it seems that some people is jist so depraved
+ There ain't a thing in 'em that ort to be saved.
+ 'Twuz jist so with Josh, who I loved as a son;
+ He lived fer hisself an' fer hisself alone.
+ 'N' 'at's why I remarked at the fust of this yarn,
+ The thing 'at it's cost me so dearly to larn--'I panned him out over
+ an' over ag'in,
+ But found nary sign of a color.'"
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+ The night it was gloomy, the wind it was high;
+ And hollowly howling it swept through the sky.
+ --_Southey_.
+
+ What matter how the night behaved?
+ What matter how the north wind raved?
+ --_Whittier_.
+
+
+
+
+THE WRAITH OF THE BLIZZARD
+
+
+We dread the unseen. Fear is always enervating; sometimes even deadly.
+Who has not fearsomely anticipated that which never came and wasted
+valuable energy and time in building bridges none are ever to cross?
+The surgical patient actually suffers more at sight of somber
+white-clad nurses, and the thought of the operation, than he does from
+the ordeal itself. It may be that we subconsciously dread the helpless
+state of unconsciousness into which the anaesthetic plunges us, and
+hesitate at a trip, no matter how short, into death's borderland,
+preferring to keep our own hands as long as possible on the helm of
+the ship of life.
+
+I wonder why we become terror-stricken at the thought of ghosts. The
+untutored child needs only a hint to make him shy at the dark; and a
+lad has to be pretty large before he can walk far at night without
+once in a while looking behind him, just to be certain there is
+nothing following.
+
+Thus spirits, spooks, bogies, wraiths, and other uncanny apparitions
+are unintentional inheritances of the race; a race that knows little
+more about the impending and impinging unseen than did the Saxon
+fathers who gave us our spooky speech.
+
+I once had an experience which grows in interest as the years pass by.
+I had no fear or thought of fear that night, and the scenes of the
+evening were absolutely unannounced; they entered upon the sleety
+stage for whose violent acts I held no program.
+
+One afternoon I was to go to one of my appointments, a mining town in
+Utah. In order to relieve home cares I took with me my four-year-old
+son, who thus would get some novel entertainment as well. To the buggy
+I hitched Jenny, the strawberry-roan cayuse, and started for the
+distant point. It was a little stormy all the way, and by the time we
+had well begun the service it had thickened so that a hard snow was
+setting in. It was dead in the north and continued with such strength
+that soon there appeared no slant to the falling columns. By the time
+church was dismissed the blizzard was on in full force, and the roads
+were already so filled with the new drifts that to return with the
+buggy was hardly thinkable. I borrowed a saddle, and leaving the
+little lad with friends, started for home, where I was under
+appointment to preach that evening. My way lay in the north, in the
+very teeth of the raging storm. With head tucked down, I trusted the
+reins to Jenny, who had never disappointed me in many a mountain trip,
+but I had not gone far until I found the storm was at my back. Peering
+sharply through the fast falling darkness, I discovered that the
+mountains were on my left instead of on my right, as they should have
+been. Jenny had turned tail to the storm. Feeling herself unwilling to
+face the arctic onset, she was retreating.
+
+Only the dire necessity of the occasion made me compel her to face the
+torturing attack of the icy shafts that were hurling themselves on us
+like steel points.
+
+We were forced, Jenny and I, to abandon the only road, now drift-filled,
+and take an unbroken way through the sagebrush, junipers, buckbrush,
+and other tangled chaparral, where there was no trail at all, and
+farther to the right, that I might keep an eye on the mountains and not
+get turned around again. I felt the force of Cardinal Newman's
+immortal hymn,
+
+ ... amid the encircling gloom,
+ Lead thou me on!
+ The night is dark and I am far from home;
+ Lead thou me on!
+
+We had not gone far until I began to hear the sweetest music. I could
+not imagine from whence it fell, as I knew there was not a human home
+in all that plain between the two settlements. Then I heard personal
+conversation; in fact, the night was full of pleasant travelers. The
+awful storm seemed not to affect them in the least. They seemed to
+have an open road too, while we were plunging through deep snowdrifts,
+my feet already dragging along their tops.
+
+When the first carriage load came up I saw it was only a desert
+juniper. The boreal gale sweeping through its shivering branches made
+converse in the music of the wild, Jenny and I being the only
+seat-holders in that grand opera. Soon another caravan of belated
+folks drove up; but it was only a load of hay that had been
+over-tipped. Others came, but they were only bushes or some inanimate
+object. There was little life out on that perishing night.
+
+After hours of fearsome and benumbing travel, Jenny stumbled with me
+into the little home town. A good feed of oats and a warm shelter
+doubtless ended the story happily for her. But for me--the ghost of
+the desert and the wraith of the blizzard had become real. They spoke
+to me that night and I understood.
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+ God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat for this
+ planting.--_Longfellow_.
+
+ Westward the course of empire takes its way.--_Berkeley_.
+
+ In the wilderness shall waters break out, and streams in the
+ desert. And the parched ground shall become a pool, and the
+ thirsty land springs of water.--_Isaiah_.
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTHWEST
+
+
+Possibly there are those who find themselves thinking that Western
+tales are travelers' tales and must be taken with "a grain of salt."
+Some also say that the man who crosses the Missouri never is able to
+tell the truth again; this is crude, I know, and in some cases true,
+but they who are so afflicted were just the same before they ever saw
+the Missouri.
+
+Our waterless areas were considered by Captain Bonneville (as told by
+Washington Irving) utterly barren and forever hopeless wastes. In
+Astoria--chapter thirty-four--these words are used:
+
+"In this dreary desert of sand and gravel of the Snake here and there
+is a thin and scanty herbage, insufficient for the horse or the
+buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and
+the Pacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper
+prairies on the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that
+must ever defy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds
+between the habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will
+often be in danger of perishing."
+
+So thought Captain Bonneville; so wrote the matchless American
+_litterateur_, Washington Irving, of "Sunnyside," author and
+authority, creator of The Life of George Washington, and the Broken
+Heart, which made Lord Byron weep. The doughty Captain Benjamin L. E.
+Bonneville, who died as late as 1878, obtaining leave of absence and a
+furlough, endured the pleasure of hardships common to the explorer,
+and through his happy biographer added the Trail to literature; but
+his eye of vision did not see these great stones of the commonwealth,
+Utah, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The very region so
+carefully pictured above as the dreariest of deserts, a veritable
+Western Sahara, is the exact location of Idaho and a large portion of
+Oregon; a region perfectly adapted to the sustenance of immense
+population and intense development.
+
+Moses understood all the wisdom of the Egyptians. We do not, but we do
+know that the biggest thing in an arid country is the ditch. America's
+triumph to date in the twentieth century is the completion of the
+Panama Ditch. The ditch is in Idaho more valuable by far than the
+land, for without it the parched soil is practically worthless, being
+an area of shimmering sand, where the ash-colored and dust-covered
+sagebrush breeds the loathsome horned toad, the rough-and-ready
+rattlesnake, and the slinking, night-hunting coyote, which preys on
+the lithe-limbed, loping jack rabbit.
+
+The modern Western American is rapidly learning a modified wisdom of
+the ancient irrigators of Egypt, and already knows how to drain the
+irrigated acres and leech these old alluvial plains. From the days
+when the frosty glacial plowman ran his deep basaltic furrows for the
+majestic Snake and other streams, these gorges of nature had been only
+mossy beds over which lazily slid the unmeasured volumes down to the
+western and "bitter moon-mad sea." Now man, the mightiest of all
+magicians, has lured the liquid serpents from their age-long couches,
+cut them into thousands of smaller streams, and sent them bravely
+abroad on the face of the protesting desert, drowning its death and
+making it to bloom and blossom.
+
+As a concrete instance of the artificial possibilities of Idaho and
+contiguous regions, I will here instance a statement made for me by
+the Rev. H. W. Parker, superintendent of Pocatello District, and
+resident of Twin Falls, under date of October, 1914: "Where ten years
+ago this very minute there was not a fence nor a furrow (only the
+conditions above described by Washington Irving) there are now such
+municipalities as Twin Falls, Filer, Rupert, Burley, and others soon
+to be as fine. As pastor in 1904, my first official trip to Twin Falls
+was made on July 14. I found one or two frame buildings and some tents
+stuck around in the sagebrush; some streets had been marked out, but
+no grading had been done. Dust, heat, and sagebrush were the main
+features of the place. In October I preached the first sermon ever
+delivered by any minister in the new village. The congregation
+numbered forty-one. On February 5, 1905, I organized the first church
+with seventeen members; on May 23, 1909, we dedicated the present
+edifice at a cost of $18,000, exclusive of the lots.
+
+"To-day this church has a membership of more than five hundred. This
+youngster has turned back into the treasuries of the denomination in
+regular collections more than $3,000. The city has to-day seven thousand
+people. There are between four and five miles of asphalt-paved
+streets, a perfect sewer system, and cement sidewalks throughout the
+whole municipality. An investment of $120,000 has been made in two
+splendidly equipped grade school buildings, besides a high school
+costing a quarter of a million dollars. These combined schools have an
+enrollment of over two thousand pupils with a teaching force of above
+sixty; the high school graduated forty-eight last commencement. There is
+not a saloon in the entire county."
+
+Surely "progress" is here spelled in large letters.
+
+Years ago, with the narrow strip along the Atlantic in mind,
+Longfellow wrote, "God had sifted three kingdoms to find the wheat
+for this planting." And as the mighty empire took its course toward
+the West of limitless opportunity the good God kept the sieve running
+full time, so that to-day
+
+ The best of the best
+ Are in the Northwest.
+
+[Illustration: END OF THE TRAIL]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Trail Tales, by James David Gillilan
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